JOHN  w  DIVINELLE: 


33d  CONGRESS,  )  SENATE.  (  Ex.  Doc. 

2d  Session.     $  \    No.  78. 


REPORTS 


EXPLORATIONS  AND  SUKYEYS, 


TO 


ASCERTAIN  THE  MOST  PRACTICABLE  AND  ECONOMICAL  ROUTE  FOR  A  RAILROAD 


MISSISSIPPI  RIVER  TO  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


MADE  UNDER  THE  DIRECTION  OF  THE  SECRETARY  OP  WAR,  IN 


1853-4, 


ACCORDING  TO  ACTS  OF  CONGRESS  OF  MARCH  3,  1853,  MAY  31,  1854,  AND  AUGUST  5,  1854. 


VOLUME  I. 


WASHINGTON: 

BEVERLEY    TUCKER,    PRINTER. 

1855. 


,t> 


// 


CONTENTS  OF  VOLUME  I. 


REPORT  OF  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 

EXAMINATION  OF  THE  REPORTS  OF  THE  SEVERAL  ROUTES  EXPLORED. 

RAILWAY  MEMORANDA. 

LETTER  OF  MAJOR  GENERAL  THOMAS  S.  JESUP. 

REPORT  OF  GOVERNOR  I.  I.  STEVENS. 


IN  SENATE—  FEBRUARY  24,  1855. 

Resolved,  That  there  be  printed,  for  the  use  of  the  Senate,  ten  thousand  copies  of  the  several  reports  of  surveys  for  a  rail 
road  to  the  Pacific,  made  under  the  direction  of  the  Secretary  of  War;  and  also  of  the  report  of  F.  W.  Lander,  civil  engineer, 
of  a  survey  of  a  railroad  route  from  Puget's  Sound,  by  Fort  Hall  and  the  Great  Salt  lake,  to  the  Mississippi  river;  and  the  report 
of  John  C.  Fremont,  of  a  route  for  a  railroad  from  the  head-waters  of  the  Arkansas  river  into  the  State  of  California;  together 
with  the  maps  and  plates  accompanying  said  reports,  necessary  to  illustrate  the  same ;  and  that  live  hundred  copies  be  printed 
for  the  use  of  the  Secretary  of  War,  and  fifty  copies  for  each  of  the  commanding  officers  engaged  in  said  service. 

Attest:  ASBUKY  DICK1NS,  Secretary. 


THIRTY-SECOND  CONGRESS,  SECOND  SESSION— CHAPTER  98. 

SECT.  10.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  the  Secretary  of  War  be,  and  he  is  hereby  authorized,  under  the  direction  of  the 
President  of  the  United  States,  to  employ  such  portion  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers,  and  such  other  persons  as  ho 
may  deem  necessary,  to  make  such  explorations  and  surveys  as  he  may  deem  advisable,  to  ascertain  the  most  practicable  and 
economical  route  for  a  railroad  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  that  the  sum  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars,  or  so  much  thereof  as  may  be  necessary,  be,  and  the  same  is  hereby,  appropriated  out  of  any  money  in  the 
treasury  not  otherwise  appropriated,  to  defray  the  expense  of  such  explorations  and  surveys. 

Approved  March  3,  ]  853. 

THIRTY-THIRD  CONGRESS,  FIRST  SESSION— CHAPTER  60. 

Appropriation:  For  deficiencies  for  the  railroad  surveys  between  the  Mississippi  river  and  the  Pacific  ocean,  forty  thousand 
dollars. 
Approved  May  31,  1854. 

THIRTY-THIRD  CONGRESS,  FIRST  SESSION— CHAPTER  267. 

Appropriation:  For  continuing  the  explorations  and  surveys  to  ascertain  the  best  route  for  a  railway  to  the  Pacific,  and  for 
completing  the  reports  of  surveys  already  made,  the  sum  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars. 
Approved  August  5,  1854. 


ERRATUM. — On  page  3,  report  of  Secretary  of  War,  for  "March  31"  read  March 3. 


NOTE. — In  the  note  to  Table  A,  page  31,  report  of  the  Secretary  of  War,  marked  thus  *,  which  reads,  "  These  are  the  esti 
mates  of  the  office,  those  of  Governor  Stevens  having  been  brought  to  the  same  standard  of  increased  cost  as  the  other  routes, 
and  his  equipment  reduced  to  that  of  the  other  routes.  His  estimates  were  $117,121,000  and  $7,030,000;"  the  sum  of 
$117,121,000  is  the  estimate  for  the  whole  route  from  St.  Paul  to  Seattle.  From  St.  Paul  to  Vancouver  the  estimate  of  Governor 
Steven  s  is  $110,091,000. 


INDEX 


REPORT  OF  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR  AND  OFFICE  REPORTS. 


Contents  of  volume  I iii 

Resolution  authorizing  printing  of  reports iv 

Acts  of  Congress  of  March  3,  1853,  May  31,  1854,  and  August  5,  1854,  authorizing  the  surveys  and  explorations iv 

Note  in  reference  to  Governor  Stevens's  estimate  of  cost  of  road iv 

REPORT    OF    THE    SECRETARY    OF    WAR. 

Provisions  under  which  the  explorations  and  surveys  were  made 3 

General  map 3 

General  sketch  of  the  country  between  the  Mississippi  river  and  the  Pacific  ocean 3,  4 

General  description  of  the  mountain  systems,  soil,  water,  &c.,  between  the  Mississippi  river  and  the  Pacific  ocean  ..  4-7 

Remarks  upon  the  several  routes 7,8 

Examination  of  route  near  the  47th  and  49th  parallels  of  north  latitude,  explored  by  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  and  Captain 

G.  B.  McClellan,  Corps  of  Engineers 8-12 

Examination  of  route  near  the  4 1st  and  42d  parallels  of  north  latitude,  explored  by  Captain  J.  C.  Fremont,  Captain 

H.  Stansbury,  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers,  and  Lieutenant  E.  G.  Beckwith,  3d  regiment  of  artillery 12-16 

Examination  of  route  near  the  38th  and  39th  parallels  of  north  latitude,  explored  by  Captain  J.  W.  Gunnison,  Corps 

of  Topographical  Engineers;  report  by  Lieutenant  E.  G.  Beckwith,  3d  regiment  artillery 17-19 

Examination  of  route  near  the  35th  parallel  of  north  latitude,  explored  by  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Whipple,  Corps  of  To 
pographical  Engineers 20-22 

Examination  of  route  near  the  32d  parallel  of  north  latitude,  explored  by  Captain  John  Pope,  Lieutenant  John  G. 

Parke,  and  Major  William  H.  Emory,  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers 23-27 

Examination  of  extension  of  route  of  32d  parallel  from  the  mouth  of  the  Gila  to  San  Francisco,  explored  by  Lieute 
nant  R.  S.  Williamson,  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers 27-29 

Remarks  in  regard  to  estimates  of  cost  and  equated  lengths;  comparison  of  results;  "the  most  practicable  and 

economical  route,"  its  characteristics  and  advantages 29,  30 

Table  showing  lengths,  sums  of  ascents  and  descents,  equated  lengths,  cost,  &c.,  of  the  several  routes 31 

Table  of  distances  of  the  eastern  termini  of  the  routes  to  the  Mississippi  river  and  the  principal  Atlantic  and  Gulf  ports.  32 

List  of  documents  accompanying  Secretary's  report 33 

EXAMINATION    OF    THE    ROUTES    BY  CAPTAIN    A.    A.    HUMPHREYS    AND    LIEUTENANT    G.    K.    WARREN,  CORPS  OF    TOPO 
GRAPHICAL   ENGINEERS. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Route  near  the  <tfth  and  49*/t  parallels  of  north  latitude. 

Considerations  determining  the  general  direction  of  the  route 

Examination  of  route  in  detail  from  St.  Paul,  Mississippi  river,  to  the  Missouri  river,  near  Fort  Union,  (comprising 

topographical  description,  grades,  character  of  work,  supplies  of  building  material,  fuel,  water,  &c.) 39,40 

Examination  of  route  in  detail  from  near  Fort  Union  to  the  eastern  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains 41 

Water  from  the  Red  river  of  the  north  to  Maria's  river 41 

Examination  of  route  in  detail  from  the  eastern  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  crossing  of  the  Spokane  river..  41-45 

Description  of  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  continuation  of  route  through  them 41-43 

Description  of  the  passes  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  and  continuation  of  route  through  them 43-45 

Examination  of  route  in  detail  from  the  crossing  of  the  Spokane  river  to  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia  river 45, 46 

Examination  of  route  in  detail  from  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia  river  to  Puget  Sound,  by  the  Yakima  Pass 46 


VI  INDEX. 

Page. 

Snow  upon  the  Yukiina  Puss 40,  47,48 

Examination  of  route  in  detail,  from  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia  to  Puget  Sound,  by  the  pass  of  the  Columbia  river.  48 

Total  length  of  the  route - 49 

Soil...... 49,50,51 

Climate 51,52,53 

Characteristics  of  the  route 53, 54 

General  elevations 53 

Sum  of  ascenti  and  descents,  &c 53,  54 

•  Lumber - —  54 

Fuel 54 

Tunnels 55 

Estimated  cost  of  road,  with  remarks 55 

CHAPTER  II. 

Route  near  the  forty-first  and  forty-second  parallels  of  north  latitude. 

General  description  of  the  route  from  the  Missouri  river  to  Fort  Bridger,  on  a  tributary  of  Green  river 56 

Examination  of  route   in  detail  from  the  Missouri   river  to  Fort  Bridger,  (comprising  topographical  description, 

grades,  character  of  work,  supplies  of  building  material,  fuel,  water,  snow,  estimate  of  cost,  &c) 50,57 

Examination  of  route  in  detail  from  Fort  Bridger,  through  the  Wahsatch  mountains,  to  the  south  end  of  the  Great 

Salt  lake 57,58 

General  description  of  the  Great  Basin  near  the  latitudes  of  41°  and  42° 58,59 

Examination  of  route  in  detail  from  the  south  end  of  the  Great  Salt  lake  to  the  foot  of  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra 

Nevada 59 

Plateau  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 59,  60 

Examination  of  the  Madelin  Pass  from  the  eastern  foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  to  Round  Valley,  on  the  Sacramento 

river GO 

Examination  of  route  in  detail  along  the  Sacramento  river  from  Hound  Valley  to  18  miles  above  Fort  Reading 60 

Detailed  description  of  the  Sacramento  river  through  the  mountain  district ,.  01 

Total  length  of  the  route 02 

Timber,  building  materials,  &c 02 

Fuel 62 

Snow,  climate,  and  water 62,03,  04 

Soil 64,65 

Estimate  of  probable  cost  of  road 05  GO 

Characteristic  features  of  the  route 60 

Sum  of  ascents  and  descents.     (See  table,  page  107.) 
Supplement  to  the  examination — 

Description  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  plateau  on  the  route 66  67 

Description  of  tha  country  east  of  the  plateau,  to  the  Mississippi  river 67  08 

Description  of  the  route  from  the  Missouri  river  to  Fort  Bridger,  by  the  South  Pass 08,09 

Ditto  by  Bridger's  Pass 09  70 

Lengths,  sums  of  ascents  and  descents,  &c 70 

Connexion  of  the  South  Pass  with  the  head-waters  of  Green  river,  and  connexion  with  the  Columbia  river 70 

CHAPTER  III. 
Route  near  the  thirty-eighth  and  thirty-ninth  parallels  of  north  latitude. 

General  considerations  determining  the  position  of  the  route 71 

Features  of  the  country  from  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Great  Basin 71 

Great  Basin 71 

Timber,  building  materials,  &c 71 

Soil "".  71,72 

Coal 72 

Elevations  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  passes,  grades,  tunnels,  and  construction  of  the  road  from  the  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass, 

in  the  Rocky  mountains,  to  Sevier  lake,  in  the  Great  Basin 72 

Length  of  route 72 

Sum  of  ascents  and  descents 72 

Examination  of  route  in  detail  from  the  western  foot  of  the  Wahsatch  mountains  to  San  Francisco  by  the  Tay-ee- 
chay-pah  Pass,  in  latitude  35°,  and  by  the  Madelin  Pass ;  lengths,  sums  of  ascents  and  descents,  and  position  and 

length  of  the  shortest  line  from  St.  Louis  to  San  Francisco 73 


INDEX.  VH 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Route  near  the  thirty-fifth  parallel  of  north  latitude. 

Page. 

Considerations  determining  the  general  position  of  the  route 74 

Description  of  the  route,  distances  and  elevations,  tunnel  in  Cajon  Pass,  &c 74, 75 

Grades • 75 

Soil 75,70 

Building  material 76 

Fuel 

Water 77 

Elevations,  sum  of  ascents  and  descents,  lengths,  &c - 77,78 

Estimated  cost,  with  remarks 

CHAPTER  V. 
Route  near  tlie  thirty-fifth  parallel  of  north  latitude. 

I. — From  Red  river  to  the  Rio  Grande 79-81 

Examination  of  route  in  detail  from  Fulton  to  the  Llano  Estacado,  (comprising  topographical  description, 

grades,  building  materials,  fuel,  water,  &c.) 7!) 

Westward  extension  of  fertile  soil  in  this  latitude 79 

Construction  across  the  Llano  Estacado,  water,  ties,  lumber,  fuel,  &c 79,  80 

Construction  from  the  Pecos  river  to  the  Rio  Grande,  and  Guadalupe  Pass,  water,  ties,  lumber,  fuel 80 

Building  stone  from  Red  river  to  Rio  Grande 80,81 

Coal 81 

General  characteristics  of  this  portion  of  the  route,  and  elevations 81 

Remarks  upon  the  estimated  cost  of  construction 81 

II. — From  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  mouth  of  the  Gila 81-86 

General  description  of  the  country  between  Dona  Ana,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  and  the  Pimas  villages,  on  the  Gila — 

profile  of  the  route,  elevation,  grades,  &c 81, 82 

Use  of  steep  natural  grades 82 

Route  along  the  Rio  Grande 82 

Parke's  grades , 82,83 

Water 83,84,85 

Fuel 85 

Peculiar  features  of  the  country  favoring  the  cheap  construction  of  a  railroad 85 

Examination  of  the  route  in  detail  from  the  Pimas  villages,  along  the  Gila  to  the  Colorado  river 86 

III. — From  the  mouth  of  the  Gila  to  San  Francisco 86-94 

Examination  of  the  route  in  detail  from  the  mouth  of  the  Gila  to  the  eastern  entrance  of  the  San  Gorgonio 

Pass,  passes  of  the  coast  range,  Colorado  desert,  construction,  water,  soil,  distances,  grades 86 

San  Gorgonio  Pass — natural  grades 87 

Connection  with  San  Diego  ;  with  San  Pedro ;  their  harbors 87 

Continuation  of  detailed  examination  of  the  route  to  San  Francisco 87 

Passes  through  the  coast  range,  by  which  the  Great  Basin  may  be  attained  from  the  plains  of  Los  Angeles,  and 

selection  of  the  New  Pass 87,  88 

Continuation  of  the  route  from  San  Gorgonio  Pass  to  the  Great  Basin 88 

Passes  from  the  Great  Basin  to  the  head  of  the  Tulares  Valley 88,89 

Superiority  of  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass 89 

Continuation  of  the  route  in  the  Great  Basin,  and  to  the  Tulares  Valley 89 

Continuation  of  the  route  along  the  Tulares  and  San  Joaquin  Valleys,  to  the  Straits  of  Martinez 89,  90 

More  direct  route  to  San  Francisco  by  the  San  Jose  Valley 90 

Soil,  building  materials,  fuel,  water,  sum  of  ascents  and  descents,  lengths,  &c 90 

Characteristic  features  of  this  portion  of  the  route,  the  mountain  passes  and  their  character;  use  of  steep 

grades 90,91 

Extract  from  the  report  of  Allan  Campbell,  esq.,  chief  engineer  of  the  Valparaiso  and  Santiago  railroad,  in 

which  the  subject  of  steep  grades  is  discussed 91-94 

Application  of  this  discussion  to  the  natural  grades  in  the  mountain  passes  of  this  route  near  the  thirty-second 

parallel 94 

Snow  and  ice  on  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  and  on  the  route  generally 94 

General  review  of  the  whole  route 94-99 

General  considerations  which  determine  the  position  of  the  route  ;  its  characteristics ;  elevations  of  its  mountain 

passes,  and  general  elevation ;  peculiar  features  of  the  arid  plains  favorable  to  cheap  construction  of  road ; 

water,  and  cost  of  carrying  it 94,95 


Till  INDEX. 

Tag,'. 

Ties  and  lumber  for  the  whole  route 96 

Fuel  for  the  whole  route,  and  its  proportionate  yearly  cost  on  railroads 96 

Navigation  of  the  Colorado  river 97 

Daily  inspection  of  the  road  and  stations 97 

Soil  on  the  whole  route 97,  98 

General  advantages  of  the  route  in  soil,  productions,  population,  surface,  mountain  passes,  and  climate 93 

Estimate  of  cost  of  construction 93,  99 

Business  of  the  road;  earnings;  cost  of  working;  Massachusetts  roads  ;  New  York  roads — —  .  99-104 

Comparison  of  the  routes,  showing  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  of  each;  and  explanation  of  the  table  of  lengths, 

distances,  &c.,  following 10-1-106 

Table  showing  the  lengths,  sum  of  ascents  and  descents,  &c.,  &c.,  of  routes  explored 107 

Table  of  distances  from  the  eastern  termini  of  the  routes  to  the  Mississippi  river  and  the  principal  Atlantic  and  Gulf 

ports .- 108 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Notes  on  the  characteristics  of  the  route  from  Independence  to  Santa  Fe 109, 110 

Notes  on  the  characteristics  of  the  route  from  Indianola,  via  San  Antonio,  to  El  Paso 110,  111 

MEMORANDA    ON    RAILWAYS    BY    BREVET    CAPTAIN    GEORGE    B.    Mc'CLELLAN. 

Letter  to  Secretary  of  War 115 

Gradients 115 

Formulae 11G-119 

Curves 119 

Construction 119 

Weights,  cost,  &c 120 

Bridges 120,121 

Water  and  fuel 121,122 

Statistics  of  various  railroads 122, 123 

Characteristics  and  cost  of  six  railways 123-125 

Depots,  &c 125,126 

Repairs  and  inspection  of  track 126 

Tunnels 126-129 

Table  showing  comparative  lengths  of  some  of  the  largest  tunnels 129 

Snow 130 

Freight 130 

Cattle,  &c 130 

REPORT  OF  GENERAL  JESUP. 

Cost  of  transporting  troops  and  supplies  to  California,  Oregon,  New  Mexico,  &c 133, 134 


REPORT 


OP 


THE    SECRETARY    OF    WAR 


ON  THE 


SEVEEAL  EAILEOAD  EXPLORATIONS. 


REPORT  OF  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 


WAR  DEPARTMENT, 
Washington,  February  27,  1855. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor,  in  obedience  to  the  provisions  of  the  llth  section  of  the  army  appro 
priation  act,  approved  March  31,  1853,  to  lay  before  Congress  printed  reports  of  the  engineers 
employed  under  the  provisions  of  that  act  to  make  such  explorations  and  surveys  as  this 
department  might  deem  advisable,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  most  practicable  and  economical 
route  for  a  railroad  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Pacific  ocean. 

The  great  amount  of  labor  required  in  the  preparation  of  the  general  map,  originally  de 
signed  to  accompany  this  report,  and  the  unfinished  condition  of  the  original  maps  and  other 
data,  have  delayed  its  completion  beyond  the  period  anticipated,  but  it  is  confidently  believed 
that  its  engraving  will  be  finished  in  time  to  accompany  the  extra  copies  of  the  report  ordered 
by  the  two  houses  of  Congress.  It  embraces  the  territory  of  the  United  States  between  the 
great  lakes  and  the  Mississippi  river,  on  the  east,  and  the  Pacific  ocean  on  the  west.  It  is  based 
upon  the  most  reliable  astronomical  data  within  those  limits;  and  the  details  having  been 
compiled  with  care,  from  all  the  government  explorations  and  surveys  and  other  reliable 
authorities,  it  will  present  more  minute  information  upon  the  region  embraced  by  it  than  has 
heretofore  been  exhibited  on  any  general  map.  It  will  show  the  relation  to  each  other  of  the 
different  railroad  routes  recently  explored,  their  connexions  with  prominent  points  on  Lakes 
Superior  and  Michigan,  the  Mississippi  river  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  with  the  ports  of  the 
Pacific ;  and,  exhibiting  only  such  features  as  have  been  determined  by  reliable  observers,  it 
will  be  of  great  value  in  showing  what  further  explorations  are  necessary,  and  in  determining 
their  direction  and  extent. 

I  have  heretofore  reported  the  nature  of  the  explorations  and  surveys  ordered  in  compliance 
with  this  act  ;  and  by  a  reference  to  the  statements  there  made,  it  will  be  seen  that  in  order  to 
accomplish  as  much  as  possible  within  the  limited  period  indicated,  not  only  were  there  as 
many  distinct  corps  employed  as  there  were  routes  to  be  surveyed,  but  several  parties  were,  in 
some  cases,  employed  upon  different  sections  of  the  same  route.  It  appears,  therefore,  necessary, 
in  submitting  these  several  reports,  many  of  which  are  quite  voluminous  and  in  detached  parts, 
to  present  a  general  recapitulation  of  their  results,  indicating  those  distinguishing  characteristics, 
the  comparison  of  which  will  determine  which  of  the  routes  surveyed  best  fulfils  the  condition 
of  practicability  and  economy  proposed  by  the  act. 

I  will  here  repeat  the  general  sketch  of  the  country  given  in  my  first  annual  report,  but 
corrected  in  accordance  with  the  results  of  the  recent  explorations.  This  will  serve,  in  the 
absence  of  a  more  elaborate  description,  to  give  some  general  idea  of  the  nature  of  the  country 
over  which  they  extended. 

The  western  portion  of  the  continent  of  North  America,  irrespective  of  the  mountains,  is 
traversed  from  north  to  south  by  a  broad,  elevated  swell  or  plateau  of  land,  which  occupies  the 
greater  portion  of  the  whole  space  between  the  Mississippi  river  and  the  Pacific  ocean.  The 
crest  of  this  plateau,  or  the  water-shed  of  the  country,  is  nearly  midway  between  the  Pacific 
coast  and  the  Mississippi.  It  may  be  represented  on  the  map  by  an  undulating  line  traced 


4  MOUNTAIN    SYSTEMS. 

between  the  headwaters  of  the  streams  which  flow  eastward  and  those  which  flow  westward. 
It  divides  the  whole  area  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Pacific  into  two  nearly  equal 
portions — that  on  the  east  being  somewhat  the  larger.  This  crest  of  the  water-shed  has  its 
greatest  elevation  in  Mexico;  and  thence  declines  to  its  lowest  point  about  the  latitude  of  32°, 
where  it  has  a  height  of  about  5,200  feet,  between  the  waters  of  the  Bio  Grande  and  those 
of  the  San  Pedro,  a  tributary  of  the  Gila.  From  this  parallel  it  increases  in  altitude  north 
ward,  and  reaches  its  maximum  near  the  38th  parallel,  where  it  is  about  10,000  feet  high. 
Thence  it  declines  as  we  pass  northward;  and,  in  latitude  42°  24',  it  has  an  elevation  of,  say, 
7,490  feet;  and  in  the  latitude  of  about  47°  it  is  reported  to  be  at  least  1,450  feet  lower.  The 
heights  here  given  are  those  of  the  lowest  passes  over  the  crest  or  water-shed  of  the  great  plateau 
of  the  country,  and  not  those  of  the  mountain  peaks  and  ridges  which  have  their  base  upon  it, 
and  rise,  in  some  cases,  to  the  height  of  17,000  feet  into  the  region  of  perpetual  snow. 

The  slope  of  the  plateau  on  the  east  and  south,  towards  the  Mississippi  and  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  is  comparatively  gentle,  and  in  the  northern  part  of  Texas,  that  known  by  the  name 
of  the  Llano  Estacado,  or  Staked  Plain,  is  by  steps.  It  is  traversed  by  the  Missouri,  the 
Platte,  the  Arkansas,  and  other  large  rivers,  which  rise  among  the  mountains  near  the  crest, 
and  flow  eastward  and  southward  in  channels  sunk  beneath  the  general  surface-level  of  the 
plains. 

Its  crest,  and  nearly  the  entire  distance  thence  to  the  Pacific,  is  occupied  by  high  plains  or 
basins,  diifering  from  each  other  in  elevation  from  1,000  to  3,000  feet,  and  by  mountain  peaks 
and  ridges,  varying  in  direction  to  almost  every  point  of  the  compass,  though  they  have  a 
general  course  north  and  south.  Many  of  these  mountains,  including  those  that  bound  this 
system,  have  obtained  the  name  of  chains,  and  a  short  classification  of  them  will  now  be 
attempted,  although  it  is  to  be  premised  that  our  knowledge  of  them  is  most  imperfect,  and 
the  classification  now  made,  future  explorations  will  probably  show  to  be  erroneous.  The 
only  proper  classification  must  be  made  by  the  geologist,  after  a  thorough  exploration  for 
this  purpose,  which  it  will  require  a  long  period  to  accomplish. 

These  mountains  may  be  considered  as  constituting  three  great  systems,  extending  gen 
erally  throughout  our  possessions  in  a  north  and  south  direction ;  and  though  this  arrange 
ment  may  not  be  the  best  or  most  accurate,  yet  it  will  enable  us  to  take  a  comprehensive 
view  of  the  whole  as  regards  the  construction  of  a  railroad,  since  any  direct  line  that  can  be 
traced  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  except  near  the  48th  and  32d  parallels,  will 
encounter  each  of  these  three  systems  in  some  point. 

Calling  the  most  eastern  system  No.  1,  we  find  a  portion  of  it,  crossing  the  Kio  Grande, 
and  entering  Texas  at  the  Great  Canon.  Its  extension  south  into  Mexico  forms  the  east 
front  of  the  Sierra  Madre.  Running  northward,  this  system  includes  all  the  mountains  on 
either  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  enclosing  its  valley  and  the  Salinas  Basin.  Those  on  the 
east  form  the  divide  between  the  Pecos  and  Salinas  Basin,  and  between  the  Rio  Grande 
and  Canadian ;  on  the  west  they  divide  the  waters  of  the  Rio  Grande  from  those  that  flow  to 
the  Gulf  of  California.  Those  on  the  east  are  sometimes  called  the  Rocky  mountains,  some 
times  the  Sierra  Madre ;  and  this  last  name  is  sometimes  applied  to  those  on  the  west.  There 
seems  to  be  a  necessity  for  considering  the  mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  Rio  Grande  as  one 
system.  These  may  be  said  to  unite  near  the  headwaters  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  Arkansas, 
and  here  the  mountains  have  their  greatest  development.  The  Sierra  de  la  Plata  extends 
to  the  southwest,  the  Elk  mountains  to  the  west,  and  the  various  chains  forming  the  Park 
mountains  to  the  north.  The  Park  mountains,  in  latitude  41°  30',  sink  into  the  plateau, 
forming  the  region  of  the  South  Pass ;  and  the  only  continuation  we  have  of  this  system  is  in 
the  Black  Hills,  which  continue  to  the  north,  with  diminished  elevation,  till,  in  latitude  46° 
15',  they  are  merged  into  the  coteau  through  which  the  Upper  Missouri  makes  its  passage. 

Among  the  mountains  included  in  this  system  are  the  Sierra  Madre,  a  portion  of  what  is 
called  the  Rocky  mountains,  the  Diabolo  mountains,  the  Guadalupe  mountains,  Hueco  mount- 


MOUNTAIN    SYSTEMS,  5 

ains,  Organ  mountains,  Sandia  mountains,  Santa  Fe  mountains,  Sierra  Blanca,  Sierra  Mojada, 
Sierra  San  Juan,  Sierra  de  la  Plata,  Elk  mountains,  Park  mountains,  Medicine  Bow  mount 
ains,  and  Black  Hills. 

System  No.  1  is  thus  but  partially  gorged  by  the  Eio  Grande,  whose  passage  of  the  Great 
Canon  is  wholly  impracticable  for  any  method  of  communication  ;  that  of  El  Paso  is  practi 
cable.  It  is  completely  cut  through  by  the  North  Platte  and  Sweet  Water,  forming  a  prac 
ticable  route  ;  and  is  turned  by  the  Upper  Missouri. 

Low  mountains  or  hills  are  known  to  exist  between  the  Black  Hills  and  the  Wind  Eiver 
chain,  about  the  headwaters  of  the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri;  but  this  region  is  too  little 
known  to  be  treated  of  with  confidence,  and  may  have  a  decided  effect  in  modifying  this  classi 
fication. 

System  No.  2.  If,  from  the  Great  Northern  Bend  of  the  Missouri,  we  travel  west  for  450 
miles,  we  come  again  upon  what  are  called  the  Rocky  mountains  ;  and  still  further  west  lies 
the  Coaur  d'Alene,  or  Bitter  Root  range,  the  two  enclosing  the  Bitter  Root  or  St.  Mary's 
valley ;  and  both  are  considered  as  forming  a  part  of  this  system.  Following  it  to  the  south, 
it  includes  the  Wind  River  chain,  the  Bear  mountains,  the  Uinta  mountains,  and  the 
Wahsatch,  which  last  continue  as  far  south  as  it  has  been  explored,  probably  forming  the 
divide  between  the  Great  Basin  and  the  Colorado,  till  the  junction  of  the  latter  with  the 
Gila. 

System  No.  3.  From  the  junction  of  the  Gila'and  Colorado,  we  find  continuous  mountains 
running  to  the  northwest,  and  terminating  at  Point  Conception,  on  the  Pacific.  On  the 
south  they  are  joined  by  the  mountains  forming  the  peninsula  of  California,  the  junction 
being  at  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass,  in  latitude  33°  45'. 

On  the  north,  two  chains  leave  this  range  in  latitude  35°.  One,  called  the  Coast  range  and 
Coast  mountains,  lies  to  the  west  of  the  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento  valleys,  the  waters  of 
which  break  through  them  at  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  The  other,  called  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
lies  to  the  east  of  these  valleys.  A  great  depression,  forming  a  plateau,  is  known  to  exist  in 
the  Sierra  Nevada  in  latitude  40°  30',  and  another  in  latitude  42°  45',  near  Lake  Abert.  This 
chain  may,  perhaps,  be  considered  as  terminating  at  or  in  these  plateaus,  or  to  find  its  con 
tinuation  in  the  Cascade  or  Coast  range,  which  extend  into  the  British  possessions,  being 
broken  through  by  the  Columbia  and  partly  by  the  Klamath  rivers. 

The  Blue  mountains,  to  the  south  of  the  Columbia,  represented  as  having  a  general  north 
east  direction,  may  be  considered,  along  with  the  mountains  mentioned  since  leaving  the 
Colorado,  as  forming  system  No.  3. 

The  Humboldt  River  chain,  running  north  and  south,  (where  crossed,)  and  separating  the 
waters  of  the  Humboldt  or  Mary's  river  from  those  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  Basin,  is  a  marked 
feature;  but  as  to  its  connexion,  north  and  south,  with  other  ranges,  nothing  is  certain. 

There  seem  good  reasons  for  believing  that  the  east  and  west  ranges,  represented  as  sepa 
rating  the  Columbia  River  basin  from  the  Great  Basin,  as  well  as  the  range  represented  as 
extending  west  from  the  Vegas  of  Santa  Clara,  are  only  apparently  such,  the  deception  arising 
from  the  overlapping  of  the  side  spurs  to  chains,  the  general  direction  of  which  is  north  and 
south. 

The  "triangular  space"  lying  between  the  Rio  Grande,  Gila,  and  Colorado,  is  everywhere, 
so  far  as  known,  exceedingly  mountainous ;  the  ranges,  such  as  the  Mogollon  and  San  Fran 
cisco  mountains,  having  a  general  northwest  direction.  Too  broad  an  interval  exists  between 
the  explorations  of  Lieutenant  Whipple  and  those  of  Captain  Gunnison,  to  enable  us  to  speak 
with  certainty  of  their  relation  to  the  systems  already  alluded  to. 

In  portions  of  the  mountain  region,  the  waters  find  no  outlet  to  the  sea,  but  drain  into 
lakes  and  ponds,  or  sinks,  carrying  with  them  all  the  impurities  of  the  basins  to  which  they 
belong,  and  are  there  uniformly  brackish  or  very  salt.  Prominent  examples  of  this  are  the 
Salinas  Basin,  of  New  Mexico,  and  the  Great  Salt  Lake  Basin  in  Utah. 


6  MOUNTAIN    SYSTEMS. 

From  most  portions  of  this  interior  mountain  belt,  the  waters  have  been  able  to  force  their 
barriers  and  escape  to  the  ocean.  The  valleys  thus  drained  are,  those  of  the  southern 
tributaries  of  the  Upper  Missouri,  that  of  the  North  Fork  of  the  Platte,  and  its  tributary  the 
Sweet  Water,  between  the  first  and  second  systems  ;  that  of  the  Upper  Rio  Grande  del  Nortc, 
in  the  first  system  ;  that  of  the  Great  Colorado  of  the  West  and  its  tributaries,  between  the  first 
and  second  systems  ;  those  of  the  waters  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  and  of  the  Klainath  river, 
in  the  third  system ;  and  that  of  the  Columbia  river  and  its  tributaries,  between  the  second 
and  third  systems.  Some  of  these  streams,  as  well  as  others  in  the  enclosed  basins,  have  in 
places  worn  for  themselves,  through  the  solid  rock,  the  most  stupendous  chasms  or  canons, 
often  2,000  feet  in  vertical  height,  many  of  which  it  is  impossible  to  follow  or  to  cross. 

The  position  of  this  belt  of  mountain  region,  stretching  from  north  to  south,  gives  rise  to  a 
peculiarity  of  climate  and  soil.  Fertility  depends  principally  upon  the  degree  of  temperature 
and  amount  of  moisture,  both  of  which  are  much  affected  by  increase  of  elevation ;  and  the 
latter  also  depends  on  the  direction  of  the  wind.  The  upper  or  return  current  of  the  trade- 
wind,  flowing  backward  towards  the  northeast,  gives  a  prevalence  of  westerly  winds  in  the 
north  temperate  zone,  which  tends  to  spread  the  moisture  from  the  Pacific  over  the  western 
portion  of  our  continent.  These  winds,  however,  ascending  the  western  slope  of  the  mountain 
ridges,  are  deprived  of  their  moisture  by  the  diminished  temperature  of  the  increased  elevation ; 
and  hence  it  is  that  the  plains  and  valleys  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  ridges  are  generally 
parched  and  barren,  and  that  the  mountain  system,  as  a  whole,  presenting,  as  it  were,  a 
screen  against  the  moisture  with  which  the  winds  from  the  west  come  laden,  has  for  its  eastern 
margin  a  sterile  belt,  which  probably  extends  along  the  whole  range,  with  a  width  varying 
from  250  to  300  and  400  miles. 

From  the  foregoing  sketch  it  will  be  perceived  that  the  lines  of  exploration  must  traverse 
three  different  divisions  or  regions  of  country  lying  parallel  to  each  other,  and  extending  north 
and  south  through  the  whole  of  the  western  possessions  of  the  United  States.  The  first  is  that 
of  the  country  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  eastern  edge  of  the  sterile  belt,  having  a  varying 
width  of  from  500  to  600  miles.  The  second  is  the  sterile  region,  varying  in  width  from  200 
to  400  miles  ;  and  the  third,  the  mountain  region,  having  a  breadth  of  from  500  to  900  miles. 

Explorations  show  that  the  surface  of  the  first  division,  with  few  exceptions,  rises  in  gentle 
slopes  from  the  Mississippi  to  its  western  boundary,  at  the  rate  of  about  six  feet  to  the  mile, 
and  that  it  offers  no  material  obstacle  to  the  construction  of  a  railroad.  It  is,  therefore,  west 
of  this  that  the  difficulties  are  to  be  overcome. 

The  concurring  testimony  of  reliable  observers  had  indicated  that  the  second  division,  or 
that  called  the  sterile  region,  was  so  inferior  in  vegetation  and  character  of  soil,  and  so  deficient 
in  moisture,  that  it  had  received,  and  probably  deserved,  the  name  of  the  desert.  This  opinion 
is  confirmed  by  the  results  of  the  recent  explorations,  which  prove  that  the  soil  of  the  greater 
part  of  this  region  is,  from  its  constituent  parts,  necessarily  sterile ;  and  that  of  the  remaining 
part,  although  well  constituted  for  fertility,  is,  from  the  absence  of  rains  at  certain  seasons, 
except  where  capable  of  irrigation,  as  uncultivable  and  unproductive  as  the  other. 

This  general  character  of  extreme  sterility  likewise  belongs  to  the  country  embraced  in  the 
mountain  region.  From  the  western  slopes  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  112th  meridian,  or 
the  western  limit  of  the  basin  of  the  Colorado,  the  soil  generally  is  of  the  same  formation  as 
that  lying  east  of  that  mountain  crest,  mixed,  in  the  latitudes  of  35°  and  32°,  with  igneous 
rocks;  and  the  region  being  one  of  great  aridity,  especially  in  the  summer,  the  areas  of 
cultivable  land  are  limited.  The  western  slopes  of  the  highest  mountain  chains  and  spurs 
within  this  region  being  of  a  constitution  favorable  to  fertility,  and  receiving  much  larger 
depositions  of  rain  than  the  plains,  hav«  frequently  in  their  small  valleys  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  grasses,  which  sometimes  clothes  the  mountain-sides;  and  where  the  wash  is  deposited  on 
mountain  stream  or  river-bottom  the  soil  is  fertile,  and  can  be  cultivated,  if  the  elevations  are 
not  too  great,  and  the  means  of  irrigation  available.  Such  mountain-valleys  and  river-bottoms 


EXAMINATION    OF   THE   ROUTES.  7 

exist  upon  all  the  routes,  and  the  difference  in  the  areas  found  in  the  different  latitudes  is  not 
sufficiently  great  to  be  of  any  considerable  weight  in  determining  the  question  of  choice  of 
route.  It  is  probable  that  all  the  routes  are  nearly  on  an  equality  in  this  respect. 

The  cultivable  valleys  of  the  Rocky  mountain  district  near  the  route  of  the  47th  parallel  do 
not  probably  exceed  an  area  of  1,000  square  miles,  though  there  are  extensive  tracts  of  fine 
grazing  lands.  In  this  latitude  the  great  sterile  basaltic  plain  of  the  Columbia,  and  the  barren 
table-lands,  spurs,  and  mountain  masses  of  the  Cascade  range,  principally  occupy  the  space 
between  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains  and  the  main  chain  of  the  Cascade  system.  In  this  area, 
where  the  rocks  are  principally  of  igneous  origin,  there  are  likewise  occasional  valleys  of  culti 
vable  soil.  The  western  slopes  of  the  Cascade  mountains  descend  to  the  borders  of  Puget  sound. 

On  the  routes  of  the  41st  and  38th  parallels,  in  the  region  under  consideration,  the  only 
large  body  of  soil  capable  of  productive  cultivation,  by  the  construction  of  suitable  works  for 
irrigation,  is  that  of  the  basin  of  the  Great  Salt  lake,  estimated  to  be  1,108  square  miles 
in  extent,  about  one-tenth  part  of  which,  being  susceptible  of  cultivation  without  the  construc 
tion  of  irrigating  canals,  is  now  cultivated  by  the  Mormons.  Here  also  are  extensive  grazing 
lands. 

The  great  elevated  plain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  in  latitudes  41°  and  42°,  and  that  of  latitude 
38°,  called  the  San  Luis  valley,  are  covered  with  wild  sage,  the  narrow  border  of  grass  found 
upon  the  streams  being  the  chief,  almost  only,  production  capable  of  supporting  an-irnal  life. 
The  slopes  of  the  mountains  bounding  them  are  covered  with  grass. 

The  plains  of  the  Great  Basin,  whose  greatest  width  (500  miles)  is  in  latitude  41°,  are,  with 
the  exception  heretofore  stated,  entirely  sterile,  and  either  bare  or  imperfectly  covered  with  a 
scattered  growth  of  wild  sage.  Where  a  stream  or  lake  is  found  in  this  desolate  region,  its 
immediate  borders  generally  support  a  narrow  belt  of  grass  and  willows ;  the  former  being  also 
found  on  the  mountain  slopes,  where  occasionally  a  scattered  growth  of  stunted  cedars  is  like 
wise  seen.  Water  is  found  on  the  mountain-side.  The  predominating  rocks,  from  the  Wahsatch 
mountains  to  the  Sierra  Nevada,  are  of  igneous  origin.  In  the  southern  portion  of  the  Basin 
the  granitic  rocks  are  more  abundant  than  the  volcanic. 

On  the  routes  of  the  parallels  of  35°  and  32°  the  valleys  of  the  Pecos,  Rio  Grande,  Gila,  and 
Colorado  of  the  West,  contain  the  largest  areas  of  fertile  soil  capable  of  irrigation  and  cultiva 
tion.  That  in  New  Mexico  is  estimated  at  700  square  miles,  exclusive  of  the  regions  occupied 
by  Indians,  of  which  200  square  miles  are  now  under  cultivation.  Here  -the  grazing  land 
is  of  very  great  extent,  the  table-lands,  as  well  as  the  mountain-sides,  being  covered  with  grass. 
The  valley  of  the  Colorado  of  the  West,  between  its  mouth  and  the  35th  parallel,  contains 
1,600  square  miles  of  fertile  soil,  which  can  be  irrigated  from  the  river. 

The  plains  south  of  the  Gila  in  its  lower  course,  and  that  west  of  the  Colorado,  extending  to 
the  Coast  range,  called  the  Colorado  desert,  as  well  as  the  contiguous  portion  of  the  Great 
Basin,  are  bare  and  exceedingly  sterile  in  their  aspect,  and  closely  resemble  each  other.  The 
soil  of  the  Colorado  desert,  and  much  of  this  as  well  as  other  parts  of  the  Great  Basin,  is,  how 
ever,  favorably  constituted  for  fertility,  but  the  absence  of  the  essential,  quickening  element, 
water,  leaves  them  utterly  unproductive. 

West  of  the  Coast,  Sierra  Nevada,  and  Cascade  mountains  the  country  is  better  watered 
than  that  just  considered ;  and  the  soil  being  mostly  well  constituted  for  fertility,  is  productive 
in  proportion  to  the  yearly  amount  of  precipitation  and  the  means  of  irrigation. 

The  general  position  and  direction  of  the  four  routes  to  be  explored  were  explained  in  my 
report  of  December  1,  1853,  and  copies  of  the  instructions  given  to  the  parties  were  appended 
to  it. 

They  were  directed  to  observe  and  note  all  the  objects  and  phenomena  which  have  an  im 
mediate  or  remote  bearing  upon  the  railway,  or  which  might  seem  to  develop  the  resources, 
peculiarities,  and  climate  of  the  country;  to  determine  geographical  positions,  obtain  the  topo 
graphy,  observe  the  meteorology,  including  the  data  for  barometric  profiles,  and  two  of  the 


ROUTE   NEAR   TFIE   FORTY-SEVENTH   AND   FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS. 

parties  were  to  determine  the  direction  and  intensity  of  the  magnetic  force.  They  were  to 
make  a  geological  survey  of  the  lines;  to  collect  information  upon,  and  specimens  of,  the  botany 
and  zoology  of  the  country;  and  to  obtain  statistics  of  the  Indian  tribes  which  are  found  in  the 
regions  traversed.  Thus  would  be  obtained  all  the  information  for  the  general  consideration  of 
the  question,  as  well  as  the  data  upon  which  the  cost  of  construction  and  working  a  railroad 
^depend. 

If  the  results  of  the  explorations  made  under  these  instructions  do  not  furnish  the  data  requi 
site  to  solve  every  question  satisfactorily,  they  at  least  give  a  large  amount  of  valuable  in 
formation,  and  place  the  question  in  a  tolerably  clear  light.  We  see  now,  with  some  precision, 
the  nature  and  extent  of  the  difficulties  to  be  encountered,  and,  at  the  same  time,  the  means  of 
surmounting  them. 

As  the  readiest  mode  of  communicating  the  nature  and  extent  of  the  information  contained 
in  the  reports  herewith  submitted,  a  brief  description  of  each  route,  its  characteristic  features, 
facilities,  difficulties,  and  probable  cost  of  construction,  will  be  given. 

For  a  long  distance  west  of  the  Mississippi,  the  enterprise  of  private  companies,  acting 
under  State  charters,  has  explored  the  country,  and  has  projected  or  is  constructing  railroads, 
stretching  towards  the  Pacific.  As  the  examinations  made  under  these  auspices,  and  our 
general  knowledge  of  that  part  of  the  country,  aiford  the  information  necessary  to  determine 
all  questions  bearing  upon  the  practicability  of  a  railroad,  it  has  been  deemed  unnecessary  to 
incur  the  expense  and  delay  of  continuing  the  explorations  directed  by  the  act,  eastward  of 
the  points  reached,  to  which  railroads  are  already  projected,  and  consequently  but  one  of  the 
routes,  the  most  northern,  has  its  starting-point  on  the  Mississippi.  The  connexion  of  the 
others  with  that  river,  as  well  as  with  the  seaports  of  Atlantic  and  Gulf  States,  is  shown  by  a 
table  (B)  hereto  annexed,  compiled  from  the  best  railroad  maps. 

ROUTE  NEAR  THE  FORTY-SEVENTH  AND  FORTY-NINTH  PARALLELS  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE. 

Taking  the  routes  in  their  geographical  order,  that  near  the  47th  parallel,  the  general 
direction  of  the  exploration  of  which  was  intrusted  to  Governor  Stevens,  of  Washington 
Territory,  will  be  the  first  discussed. 

The  route  was  to  cross  the  Rocky  mountains  at  the  sources  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Missouri 
and  Columbia  rivers,  and,  in  approaching  and  leaving  the  mountains,  to  follow  as  far  as  prac 
ticable  the  valleys  of  these  rivers  and  their  tributaries. 

The  general  direction  of  the  Missouri  from  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Great  Bend,  in  lati 
tude  48°  30',  is  from  west  to  east,  and  thence  to  latitude  43°  30'  southeast.  The  point  whero 
the  direction  changes  is  reached  from  St.  Paul,  on  the  Mississippi,  by  a  line  passing  up  on 
the  east  side  of  that  river  to  Little  Falls,  109  miles,  and  there  crossing  it;  thence  gaming  the 
divide  between  the  waters  of  Hudson's  bay  and  those  of  the  Missouri,  keeping  on  this  divide, 
and  approaching,  in  longitude  103°,  within'  a  few  miles  of  the  49th  parallel;  then  passing 
southerly,  between  the  104th  and  105th  meridians,  and  entering  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  river. 
The  route  then  follows  this  valley  to  the  mouth  of  Milk  river.  The  ground  near  the  Missouri 
here  becoming  rough  and  broken,  the  route  is  obliged  to  leave  it  and  follow  the  valley  of  Milk 
river  187  miles;  then  entering  the  prairies,  which  near  the  mountains  are  more  favorable 
for  location  than  near  the  Missouri  river,  it  continues  in  a  line  nearly  parallel  to  the 
river,  across  its  tributaries,  the  Marias,  Teton,  and  Sun  rivers,  and  enters  either  Clark's 
or  Cadotte's  Pass. 

As  far  as  the  crossing  of  Sun  river,  1,093  miles  from  St.  Paul,  the  route  is  over  river  bottom 
or  prairie,  the  usual  expense  of  construction  over  such  ground  being  increased  by  the  necessity 
of  guarding  against  freshets  by  embankment  on  the  river  bottoms,  of  ballasting  in  the  soft, 
sticky  soil  of  Milk  river,  of  providing  supplies  of  water  during  the  dry  season,  over  certain 
portions  of  the  route,  by  reservoirs  and  aqueducts,  estimated  to  cost,  with  planting  trees  for 
supply  of  fuel,  $3,000,000,  and  of  transporting  ties  and  lumber  for  distances  of  from  100  to 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY-SEVENTH    AND   FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  9 

470  miles — forest-growth  suitable  for  ties  and  lumber  not  being  found  at  closer  intervals  on 
tlie  routp.  These,  in  connexion  with  the  uninhabited  and  uncultivable  condition  of  the  country 
for  740  miles,  form  the  difficulties  of  this  portion  of  the  route,  and  will  materially  increase  the 
cost  of  its  construction. 

The  most  difficult  portion  of  the  whole  route  is,  however,  that  which  is  now  entered  upon, 
viz :  from  Sun  river  to  the  Spokane,  a  distance  of  365  miles,  embracing  the  Rocky  mountains 
proper,  and  a  secondary  chain  lying  west  of  them,  called  Occur  d'Alene  and  the  Bitter  Root 
mountains. 

Through  the  Rocky  mountains  seven  passes  were  explored;  but  the  only  ones  among  them, 
upon  which  the  information  obtained  was  sufficiently  thorough  and  complete  to  enable 
projects  to  be  made,  are  two  (Clark's  and  Cadotte's)  lying  near  each  other  in  latitude  47°, 
and  connecting  the  headwaters  of  Dearborn  river,  a  tributary  of  the  Missouri,  with  the  Black- 
foot,  a  head  branch  of  the  Columbia. 

The  summit  ridge  of  Clark's  Pass  has  an  elevation  of  6,323  feet,  and  requires  a  tunnel 
2^  miles  long,  at  an  elevation  of  5,300  feet.  Its  connexion  with  the  main  line  of  survey 
along  the  valley  of  the  Blackfoot  river  was  not  made,  though  "believed"  practicable,  with 
grades  of  50  feet  per  mile.  The  interval  unexamined  is  4^  miles  long.  This  pass  has  been 
adopted  by  Governor  Stevens  in  the  railroad  estimate,  and  is  probably  practicable. 

The  approach  to  the  other  pass  (Cadotte's)  is  difficult,  owing  to  the  numerous  deep  ravines 
of  the  tributaries  of  a  branch  of  Dearborn  river,  which  the  road  must  cross.  The  summit 
of  the  pass  has  an  elevation  of  6,044  feet ;  requires  a  tunnel  4|-  miles  long,  at  an  elevation  of 
5,000  feet,  with  grades  of  approach  of  60  feet,  and  of  departure  of  40  feet,  per  mile. 

A  tunnel  4^  or  even  2|  miles  in  length,  in  rock  or  part  rock,  at  a  depth  below  the  summit 
of  1,000  feet,  in  a  severely-cold  climate,  800  or  1,000  miles  distant  from  a  thickly-inhabited 
district,  is  a  work  of  vast  difficulty ;  and  the  necessity  of  the  construction  of  one  of  these  two 
tunnels,  in  connexion  with  the  character  of  the  approach,  and  the  difficult  nature  of  the  work 
required,  continuing  westward  as  far  as  the  crossing  of  the  Spokane  river,  in  all  a  distance  of 
365  miles,  is  one  of  the  most  serious  objections  to  the  route. 

From  either  pass  the  route  seeks  the  Blackfoofc  river,  with  the  view  of  reaching  Clark's 
fork,  which  opens  the  only  pass  through  the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  the  practicability  of  which 
was  determined.  ID  order  to  reach  Clark's  fork,  two  routes  were  examined.  The  first  fol 
lows  the  Blackfoot  river  to  its  junction  with  Hell-Grate,  a  distance  of  93  miles.  The  valley  is 
narrow  and  wooded,  the  stream  winding,  and  for  twenty  miles  there  is  a  narrow  gorge. 
Numerous  bridges  will  be  required.  The  Hell-Gate,  a  few  miles  after  being  joined  by  the 
Blackfoot,  empties  into  the  St.  Mary's,  called  below  this  junction  the  Bitter  Root.  The  con 
struction  of  the  road  along  this  stream  to  its  junction  with  Clark's  fork  will  be  a  work  of 
great  difficulty  and  expense,  requiring  short  curves,  steep  gradients,  numerous  bridges,  heavy 
side-cutting,  and  high  embankments,  in  consequence  of  the  spring  freshets,  (from  twenty  to 
thirty  feet  of  vertical  rise.)  From  the  nature  of  the  examination,  its  practicability  cannot  be 
considered  as  established. 

The  other  route,  (shorter,  and  probably  less  difficult,)  having  followed  the  Blackfoot  but 
a  short  distance,  crosses  to  the  Jocko,  descends  this  to  the  Flathead,  and  descends  the  latter 
to  its  junction  with  the  Bitter  Root,  forming  Clark's  fork,  bounded  closely  by  high,  rocky 
mountains.  Having  reached  Clark's  fork,  the  route  continues  along  this  river  as  far  as  Lake 
Pend  d'Oreille,  between  rugged,  rocky  mountains,  which  at  several  points  crowd  upon  the 
river.  The  valley  of  this  river  is  heavily  timbered,  principally  with  pine,  and,  with  the  lake, 
it  is  subject  to  freshets  fifteen  feet  in  height.  Leaving  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille  at  its  lower 
extremity,  the  route  crosses  to  the  Spokane  without  difficulty.  At  the  Spokane  river  the 
continuous  mountain  region  and  the  forest  terminate,  and  "all  great  difficulties  of  location 
upon  the  route  cease."  The  earth-excavation  and  embankment  throughout  this  section 
(from  the  east  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Spokane  river,  365  miles)  will  be  large  in 


10  ROUTE    NEAR    THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND   FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS. 

amount,  and  expensive;  there  will  be  frequent  rock-excavation,  and  the  bulk  of  the  rock- 
excavation  in  the  entire  route  will  be  in  this  section.  It  is  evident  that  the  difficulties  of  con 
struction  will  be  great,  and  the  cost  excessive. 

Upon  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  Governor  Stevens  says  :  "It  is  not  doubted  there 
are  Qther  passes  in  this  portion  of  the  Rocky  mountain  range,  even  better  than  those  explored  ; 
they  are  indicated  by  the  general  depression  of  the  mountain  range,  with  the  greater  fre 
quency  of  the  streams  stretching  out  to  meet  each  other  from  the  opposite  slopes  of  the  mount 
ains  ;  and  I  consider  it  important  that,  in  future  operations,  a  whole  season  should  be  devoted 
to  their  thorough  examination,  and  that  instrumental  surveys  should  be  made  of  the  pass 
found  to  be  the  most  practicable." 

Leaving  the  Spokane,  the  route  enters  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  a  table-land  stretch 
ing  from  the  Cceur  d'Alene  to  the  Cascade  mountains,  a  distance  of  200  miles.  Its  central 
and  western  portions  are  of  trap  formation,  and  are  described  on  the  map  as  sandy,  rocky, 
and  sterile.  Its  summit,  800  feet  above  the  Spokane  river,  is  readily  attained,  the  treeless 
plain  is  crossed  in  a  distance  of  110  miles,  and  a  suitable  point  for  crossing  the  Columbia 
river,  400  or  450  yards  wide,  reached,  140  miles  distant  from  the  Spokane.  This  point  is  about 
equally  distant  from  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Pacific  in  Puget  sound  and  in  the  Columbia 
river.  The  whole  intermediate  space  is  occupied  by  the  Cascade  mountains,  with  their 
secondary  chains,  spurs,  and  high,  broken  table-lands,  through  which  there  are  but  two 
passes  reported  practicable  for  a  railroad — that  of  the  Columbia  river  and  that  of  the  Yakima, 
sometimes  erroneously  called  the  Snoqualme. 

The  Yakima  Pass  gives' the  most  direct  route  to  Puget  sound,  the  distance  by  it  being  150 
or  160  miles  shorter  than  by  the  Columbia  River  Pass.  It  requires  a  tunnel  through  rock, 
(siliceous  conglomerate,)  either  4,000  yards  long,  3,000  feet  above  the  sea,  or  a  tunnel  11,840 
yards  long,  2,400  feet  above  the  sea.  The  reconnaissance  did  not  extend  westAvard  from  the 
summit  more  than  three  miles.  The  evidence  respecting  the  amount  of  snow  found  on  the 
summit  of  the  pass  at  the  close  of  Avinter,  makes  it  probable  that  it  is  then  20  feet  deep  there. 
This  question  should  be  satisfactorily  settled,  and  the  reconnaissance  completed,  before  the 
practicability  of  the  pass  can  be  considered  established.  In  the  opinion  of  the  officer  making 
the  reconnaissance — Captain  McClellan,  Corps  of  Engineers — the  pass  is  barely  practicable, 
and  only  at  a  great  cost  of  time,  labor,  and  money.  Under  every  favorable  condition  of  position 
the  construction  of  either  of  the  proposed  tunnels  Avovild  be  seriously  objectionable  ;  but  Avhere 
the  position  itself  is  so  unfavorable,  the  final  advantages  should  be  very  great  to  determine 
the  selection  of  this  route.  The  information  now  possessed  is  sufficient  to  decide  against  this 
route. 

The  route  by  the  pass  of  the  Columbia  follows  that  river  from  the  Great  Plain,  being  gen 
erally  located,  as  far  as  the  Dalles,  in  bottom-lands  which  present  no  difficulties.  From  the 
Dalles  to  near  Vancouver,  90  miles,  the  rocky  bluffs  close  upon  the  river,  and  the  work  required 
will  be  similar  to  that  of  the  Hudson  River  railroad  along  the  mountain  region.  In  the  opinion 
of  Mr.  Lander,  "the  high  floods  to  which  the  Columbia  river  is  subject,  are  serious  obstacles 
to  obtaining  the  best  location  for  cheap  construction  offered  by  its  valley."  In  1854,  the  rise  of 
the  river  during  the  flood  was  10  feet  above  spring  level,  and  1*7  feet  above  summer  level. 

The  Columbia  river  is  navigable  for  sea-going  vessels  to  Vancouver,  the  point  now  reached  ; 
but  the  unfavorable  character  of  the  entrance  to  that  river,  and  the  great  superiority  of  the 
ports  on  Puget  sound,  seemed  to  render  it  expedient  to  adopt  some  one  of  the  latter  as  the 
Pacific  terminus  of  this  route.  Continuing  down  the  Columbia,  therefore,  through  bottom 
lands,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz,  the  route  enters  the  Avide  and  comparatively  flat  and  wooded 
valley  of  that  river,  ascends  it,  and,  crossing  over  the  Avooded  and  prairie  plains,  which, 
"though  not  fully  explored,  are  sufficiently  well  known  to  insure  the  unusually  favorable 
character  of  the  country  for  the  construction  of  a  railway,"  reaches  Seattle,  the  best  port  on  the 
east  side  of  Puget  sound. 


ROUTE    NEAR   THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND   FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  11 

From  the  Kocky  mountains  to  Seattle,  wood,  stone,  and  other  building  materials,  are  found 
along  the  line  of  the  route,  or  at  points  so  accessible  to  it,  that  it  may  be  considered  well  sup 
plied  with  them  throughout. 

The  information  upon  the  character  of  the  soil  upon  the  route  does  not  admit  of  satisfactory 
conclusions  to  be  deduced.  It  is  sufficient,  however,  to  show  that  in  this  latitude,  as  in  that 
of  the  Arkansas,  the  uncultivable  region  begins  about  the  99th  meridian.  Immediately  under 
the  Rocky  mountains  the  soil  improves,  probably  from  the  mountain  wash.  The  tertiary  and 
cretaceous  formations  extend,  in  these  latitudes,  from  about  the  97th  meridian  to  the  eastern 
base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and,  under  the  meteorological  conditions  found  in  this  space, 
are  unsuitable  for  agricultural  purposes.  There  are  some  very  limited  exceptions  to  this  gen 
eral  character  in  portions  of  river  bottoms.  These  tertiary  formations  in  the  arid  regions  of 
Asia  and  Africa  form  the  great  deserts  of  those  countries. 

The  country  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Pacific  slopes  may  likewise  be  described  as 
one  of  general  sterility.  The  eastern  portion  of  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia  is  represented 
to  be  grassed  ;  its  middle  and  western  parts  almost  entirely  sandy,  rocky,  arid  sterile.  The 
mountain  masses,  spurs,  and  table-lands  of  the  Cascade  chain,  east  of  the  main  crest,  are  sterile. 
There  are  exceptions  to  this  general  sterility  in  the  mountain  valleys,  where  the  soil  is  better 
constituted  for  fertility,  and  the  rains  more  abundant;  but,  although  portions  of  these  are 
suitable  for  agricultural  purposes,  they  are  better  adapted  to  grazing.  The  sum  of  the  areas 
of  cultivable  soil  in  the  Rocky  mountain  region  does  not  exceed,  if  it  equals,  1,000  square 
miles.  West  of  the  Cascade  mountains  there  are  rich  river  bottoms,  clay  formations  that  are 
arable,  and  prairies  offering  good  grazing. 

The  principal  favorable  characteristics  of  this  route  are  its  low  profile,  low  grades,  and  the 
low  elevation  of  the  mountain  passes,  and  its  connexion  with  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers. 
The  reported  sum  of  the  ascents  and  descents  is  the  least  of  all  the  routes;  this  proportion 
may,  however,  be  changed  when  the  minor  undulations  are  measured.  The  principal  unfavor 
able  features  are,  in  construction,  the  tunnel  required  on  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  the  difficulty 
and  expense  of  construction  from  the  eastern  approach  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Spokane 
river,  and  the  expense  of  the  construction  along  the  Columbia  river,  from  the  Dalles  to  near 
Vancouver.  These,  when  considered  carefully,  are  serious  objections  to  the  route,  not  only  in 
the  money,  but  the  time,  they  will  consume.  Iix thickly-populated  countries  their  construction 
would  be  difficult  and  costly ;  situated  as  they  are — the  Rocky  mountain  region  especially — the 
difficulties,  cost,  and  time  required,  are  greatly  increased. 

The  severely-cold  character  of  the  climate  throughout  the  whole  route,  except  the  portion 
west  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  is  one  of  its  unfavorable  features;  and,  for  national  considera 
tions,  its  proximity  to  the  dominions  of  a  powerful  foreign  sovereignty  must  be  a  serious 
objection  to  it  as  a  military  road. 

Its  cost  has  been  estimated  by  Governor  Stevens,  by  the  Columbia  River  valley  and  the  Cow- 
litz,  at  $117,121,000  ;  the  cost  of  work  at  eastern  prices  having  had  25  per  cent,  added  to  it 
from  the  Bois  des  Sioux  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  40  per  cent,  thence  to  the  Pacific.  It 
has  been  thought  safer  to  add  100  per  cent,  to  the  cost  at  eastern  prices  from  the  eastern  slope 
of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Pacific.  This  would  swell  the  estimate  to  $150,871,000. 

Should  Governor  Stevens  have  included  a  full  equipment  in  his  estimate,  $10,000,000  should 
be  subtracted  from  this  sum  to  bring  the  estimate  in  accordance  with  those  of  the  other  routes, 
and  the  cost  then  becomes  $140,871,000. 

The  length  of  the  route  from  St.  Paul  to  Vancouver  is  1,864  miles.  The  sum  of  ascents 
and  descents,  as  far  as  reported,  is  18,100  feet,  which  will  be  equivalent,  in  the  cost  of  working 
the  road,  to  an  increased  horizontal  distance  of  343  miles:  this  added  to  the  length  of  the 
line  of  location,  gives  for  equated  length  2,207  miles. 

From  St.  Paul  to  Seattle,  by  the  Columbia  route,  is  2,025  miles,  which  the  sum  of  ascents 
and  descents  increases  to  an  equated  distance  of  2,387  miles. 


12  ROUTE   NEAR    THE    FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS. 

The  work  upon  this  route,  under  Governor  Stevens,  embraced  a  wider  field  of  exploration 
than  that  upon  any  other  explored,  and  a  great  amount  of  topographical  and  general  inform 
ation  was  collected  in  relation  to  the  country  traversed .  The  necessary  astronomical  observa 
tions  were  not  made  to  determine  accurately  the  longitudes  of  the  several  stations,  and  the  loss 
of  his  barometrical  observations,  after  the  completion  of  the  field-work,  left  no  means  of  revising 
and  verifying  the  profile  of  the  route. 

The  examination  of  the  approaches  and  passes  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  made  by  Captain 
MeClellan,  of  the  Corps  of  Engineers,  presents  a  reconnaissance  of  great  value,  and  though 
performed  under  adverse  circumstances,  exhibits  all  the  information  necessary  to  determine 
the  practicability  of  this  portion  of  the  route,  and  reflects  the  highest  credit  on  the  capacity 
and  resources  of  that  officer. 

ROUTE  NEAR' THE  FORTY-FIRST  AND  FORTY-SECOND  PARALLELS  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE. 

About  one-half  of  the  route  in  this  latitude,  extending  from  the  Missouri  river  to  Fort 
Bridger,  on  a  tributary  of  Green  river,  has  not  been  explored  with  a  special  reference  to  the 
practicability  of  constructing  a  railroad,  and  the  reports  do  not  contain  all  the  details  neces 
sary  to  the  elucidation  of  the  subject.  The  information  respecting  it  is  to  be  found  in  the 
reports  of  Col.  Fremont  and  Capt.  Stansbury. 

From  Fort  Bridger  to  Fort  Reading,  on  the  Sacramento  river,  the  exploration  has  been 
made  by  Lieut.  E.  G.  Beck  with,  under  the  appropriation  for  that  purpose. 

The  route  may  commence  on  the  Missouri,  either  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  about  245  miles 
from  the  Mississippi  at  St.  Louis,  or  at  Council  Bluffs,  about  267  miles  from  the  Mississippi  at 
Rock  Island,  ascend  the  Platte  and  enter  the  eastern  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  (the  Black 
Hills)  by  the  Xorth  fork  and  its  tributary,  the  Sweet  Water.  Another  route,  by  the  South  fork 
and  a  tributary  called  Lodge  Pole  creek,  has  been  suggested  by  Capt.  Stansbury  as  shorter  and 
less  expensive ;  but  the  information  respecting  it  is  not  sufficiently  full  to  make  further 
mention  of  it  necessary. 

From  the  Missouri  river  to  the  entrance  of  the  Black  Hills,  30  miles  above  Fort  Laramie, 
520  miles  from  Council  Bluffy,  and  755  miles  from  Fort  Leavenworth,  the  route  resembles 
others  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  needs  no  special  mention.  Its  cost 
per  mile  will  be  about  the  same. 

The  route  west  of  this  point  crosses  many  lateral  streams  that  have  cut  deep  ravines  into 
the  soil,  and  leaves  the  Platte  just  below  the  Hot  Spring  Gap,  above  which  it  is  walled  in  by 
canons.  To  avoid  these,  the  route  crosses  a  range  of  hills  800  feet  above  the  river,  and  descend 
ing  to  the  Sweet  Water,  a  branch  of  the  Platte,  follows  that  stream  to  its  source,  where  the 
summit  of  the  plateau  of  the  South  Pass  (elevation  7,490  feet)  is  attained.  The  valley  of  the 
Sweet  Water  is  generally  rather  open,  but  occasionally  it  cuts  through  mountain  spurs,  forming 
canons. 

From  the  first  gorge  in  the  Black  Hills  to  the  summit  of  the  pass,  291  miles,  the  wotfv  will 
be  difficult  and  expensive,  and  is  assimilated  in  amount  to  that  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
railroad. 

From  the  South  Pass  the  route  follows  down  Sandy  creek,  a  tributary  of  Green  river,  to 
the  crossing  of  the  latter,  and  thence  to  Fort  Bridger,  (elevation  7,254  feet,)  on  Black's  fork, 
likewise  a  tributary  of  Green  river.  The  amount  of  work  on  this  section  would  be  consid 
erably  less  than  on  the  preceding. 

From  Council  Bluffs  to  Fort  Bridger  the  distance  is  942  miles;  from  Fort  Leavenworth 
1,072  miles. 

The  route  now  ascends  the  divide  between  the  waters  of  Green  river  and  those  of  the  Great 
Salt  lake,  by  the  valley  of  Black's  fork,  or  of  one  of  its  tributaries,  with  grades  of  69.5  and 
40.3  feet  per  mile.  The  summit  is  a  broad  terrace  at  the  foot  of  the  Uinta  mountains,  and 
has  an  elevation  of  8,373  feet.  From  this  point  the  line  descends  over  the  undulating  country 


ROUTE  NEAR  THE  FORTY-FIRST  AND  FORTY-SECOND  PARALLELS.  1  3 

separating  the  Uinta  and  Bear  River  mountains,  crossing  the  head  of  Bear  river,  and,  entering 
the  valley  of  White  Clay  creek  at  its  head,  follows  down  that  stream  to  its  junction  with 
Weber  river. 

The  Wahsatch  mountains  now  intervene  between  this  plateau  country  and  the  Great  Salt 
lake,  and  the  passage  through  them  may  be  effected  by  following  Weber  river,  or  by  ascend 
ing  to  near  the  sources  of  the  Timpanogos;  and  descending  that  stream — both  being  affluents, 
directly  or  indirectly,  of  the  Great  Salt  lake — the  distances  are  about  the  same  to  their  common 
point  on  that  lake. 

There  are  canons  upon  both  these  streams.  That  of  the  Timpanogos  is  10  miles  in  length, 
and  narrow,  being  from  100  to  300  yards  in  width.  It  is  direct  in  its  general  course,  but 
must  be  bridged  at  several  points,  to  avoid  short  curves.  The  sides  are  of  blue  limestone, 
and  will  require  rock-blasting  at  some  points.  The  river,  30  yards  wide,  descends  with  a 
powerful  current,  and,  when  most  swollen,  is  six  feet  above  its  ordinary  level. 

On  Weber  river  there  are  two  canons.  The  upper  is  rather  a  gorge  or  defile,  8^  miles  long. 
The  mountains  rise  to  a  great  height  above  it,  and  are  rocky  and  precipitous,  and  much  broken 
by  ravines.  The  river  is  winding,  and  it  will  be  necessary  to  cross  it  frequently.  The  lower 
canon,  near  the  borders  of  the  valley  of  Great  Salt  lake,  is  four  miles  long,  direct,  with  an 
average  width  of  175  yards,  the  stream  being  30  yards  wide,  and  impinging  freqiiently  with 
great  force  against  the  base  of  the  mountains,  which,  however,  are  sufficiently  retreating  to 
admit  of  the  practicable  passage  of  a  railway. 

Entering  the  valley  of  Great  Salt  lake  from  either  this  or  the  Timpanogos  canon,  there  is 
no  obstacle  to  the  construction  of  a  railway  passing  by  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  and  crossing 
the  Jordan,  Tuilla  valley,  and  Spring  or  Lone  Bock  valley,  to  its  west  side. 

By  the  valley  of  the  Timpanogos,  the  distance  from  near  Fort  Bridger  to  the  south  end  of 
the  Great  Salt  lake,  on  the  western  side  of  the  valley  of  the  Jordan,  is  182.55  miles;  the 
greatest  grade  required,  84  feet  to  the  mile.  The  amount  of  work  required  on  this  section, 
excepting  that  along  the  canon,  will  not,  in  the  opinion  of  Lieutenant  Beckwith,  be  great. 

From  the  western  shore  of  Great  Salt  lake  to  the  valley  of  Humboldt  river,  the  country  con 
sists  alternately  of  mountains,  in  more  or  less  isolated  ridges,  and  of  open  level  plains,  rising 
gradually  from  the  level  of  the  lake  on  the  east,  to  the  base  of  the  Humboldt  mountains  on 
the  west;  that  is,  from  4,200  feet  to  6,000  feet  above  the  sea.  West  of  the  Humboldt  mount 
ains  the  country  is  of  the  same  character,  the  plains  declining  until,  at  the  west  shore  of  Mud 
lake,  usually  called  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  elevation  is  4,100  feet. 

,The  mountains  in  this  space  of  500  miles,  (by  the  route  travelled  600  miles,)  between  the 
Great  Salt  lake  and  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  have  a  general  north  and  south  course. 
Occasionally  cross-spurs  close  in  the  valleys  to  the  north  and  south,  but  more  frequently  this 
isolation  is  only  apparent.  The  mountains  are  sharp,  rocky,  and  inaccessible  in  many  parts, 
but  are  low  and  easily  passed  in  others.  Their  general  elevation  varies  from  1,500  to  3,000 
feet  above  the  valleys,  and  but  few  of  them  retain  snow  upon  their  highest  peaks  during  the 
summer.  They  are  liberally  supplied  with  springs  and  small  streams,  but  the  latter  seldom 
extend  far  into  the  plains.  At  the  time  of  melting  snows  there  are  many  small  ponds  and 
lakes,  but  at  other  seasons  the  waters  are  absorbed  by  the  soil  near  the  base  of  the  mountains. 
Grass  is  found  in  abundance  upon  nearly  ,every  range,  but  timber  is  very  scarce — a  small  scat 
tered  growth  of  cedar  only  being  seen  upon  a  few  ranges.  East  of  the  Humboldt  mountains 
the  growth  of  cedars  is  more  abundant,  and  the  grass  better,  than  to  the  west.  The  valleys 
rarely  have  a  width  east  and  west  of  more  than  five  or  ten  miles,  but  often  have  a  large  extent 
north  and  south.  They  are  irregular  in  form,  frequently  extending  around  the  ends  of  mount 
ains,  or  uniting  to  succeeding  valleys  by  level  passages.  The  greater  part  of  the  surface  of 
these  valleys  is  merely  sprinkled  by  several  varieties  of  sombre  artemisia,  (wild  sage,)  pre 
senting  the  aspect  of  a  dreary  waste.  Though  there  are  spots  more  thickly  covered  witli 
this  vegetation,  yet  the  soil  is  seldom  half  covered  with  it,  even  for  a  lew  acres,  and  is  nowhere 


14  ROUTE    NEAR   THE    FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS. 

suitable  for  settlement  and  cultivation.  Immediately  west  of  Great  Salt  lake  there  is  a  plain 
of  mud,  clay,  and  sand,  impregnated  with  salt,  seventy  miles  in  width  from  east  to  west  by 
its  longest  line,  and  forty  at  a  narrower  part  further  south,  thirty  miles  of  which  must  be  piled 
for  the  passage  of  a  railroad  across  it.  A  railroad  may  be  carried  over  this  series  of  valleys  and 
around  the  mountain  masses,  at  nearly  the  general  level  of  the  valleys. 

The  route  in  this  manner  reaches  the  foot  of  the  Humboldt  mountains,  a  narrow  but  elevated 
ridge,  containing  much  snow  during  most  of  the  year,  and  crosses  them  by  a  pass  nine  miles 
long,  about  three  of  which  are  occupied  by  a  narrow,  rocky  ravine,  above  which  the  road  should 
be  carried  on  the  sloping  spurs  of  the  mountains  on  the  western  descent ;  elevation  of  summit 
6,579  feet  above  the  sea.  At  the  time  when  passed,  21st  May,  snow  covered  the  high  peaks 
above  it,  and  a  few  drifts  extended  into  the  ravines  down  to  the  level  of  its  summit. 

The  descent  is  now  made  to  the  open  valley  of  flumboldt  river,  which  is  followed  for  about 
190  miles.  The  steepest  grade  proposed  in  the  pass  of  Humboldt  mountain  is  89  feet  per  mile 
for  eight  miles,  but  this  can  be  reduced  by  gaining  distance  to  any  desirable  extent. 

The  Humboldt  river,  as  described  by  Colonel  Fremont,  is  formed  by  two  streams  rising  in 
mountains  west  of  the  Great  Salt  lake.  Its  general  direction  is  from  east  to  west,  coursing 
among  broken  ranges  of  mountains;  its  length  about  three  hundred  miles.  It  is  without 
affluents,  and  terminates  near  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  in  a  marshy  lake.  It  has  a 
moderate  current — is  from  two  to  six  feet  deep  in  the  dry  season,  and  probably  not  fordable 
anywhere  below  the  junction  of  the  two  streams  during  the  melting  of  the  snows.  The  valley 
varies  in  width  from  a  few  miles  to  twenty,  and,  excepting  the  immediate  river-banks,  is  a  dry, 
sandy  plain,  without  grass,  wood,  or  arable  soil.  Its  own  immediate  valley  (bottom)  is  a  rich 
alluvion,  covered  with  blue  grass,  herds-grass,  clover,  and  other  nutritious  grasses,  and  its 
course  is  marked  through  the  plain  by  a  line  of  willow. 

Of  the  three  lines  from  the  Humboldt  river  to  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  best  is  that 
by  the  Noble's  Pass  road,  as  it  avoids  the  principal  range  of  mountains  crossed  on  the  line 
followed  a  few  miles  south.  The  line  followed  crosses  two  ranges  of  the  general  character  of  the 
Basin  mountains,  and  reaches  the  foot  of  the  Madeliii  Pass  *»f  the  Sierra  Nevada,  on  the  west 
shore  of  Mud  lake,  in  a  distance  of  119  miles,  and  at  an  elevation  of  4,079  feet  above  the  sea. 

In  this  latitude  the  Sierra  Nevada  was  found  to  be  a  plateau  about  5,200  feet  above  the  sea, 
40  miles  in  width  from  east  to  west,  enclosed  at  these  limits  by  low  mountains,  the  summits 
of  the  passes  through  which  are  400  and  500  feet  above  the  base.  The  plain  is  covered  with 
irregular  spurs,  ridges,  and  isolated  peaks,  rising  a  few  hundred  feet,  limiting  it  in  a  north 
and  south  direction  sometimes  to  a  space  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  and  at  others  to  that  of  ten 
miles.  These  spurs,  &c.,  on  the  eastern  portion  of  the  plateau,  are  sparsely  covered  with  cedar  ; 
on  the  western,  heavily  covered  with  pine. 

There  is  no  drainage  from  this  plain,  the  waters  of  a  few  small  streams  and  springs  forming 
grassy  ponds  upon  its  surface.  In  its  general  features  it  is  similar  to  the  Great  Basin, 
excepting  that  as  more  rain  falls  upon  it,  the  vegetation  is  comparatively  luxuriant. 

There  are  two  routes  by  which  this  plain  may  be  reached  from  the  Great  Basin,  and  the 
descent  made  to  the  Sacramento  river.  That  by  the  Madelin  Pass,  the  more  northern,  is 
most  probably  the  better  of  the  two,  and  is  the  only  one  necessary  to  be  considered.  Leaving 
Mud  lake,  it  ascends  by  the  valley  of  Smoky  creek  for  three  miles,  through  a  narrow  gorge 
(from  100  to  150  yards  wide)  in  an  outlying  spur  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

After  this  the  route  is  over  more  open  ground,  varying,  in  degree,  to  the  summit  of  the  pas 
sage  through  the  eastern  ridge  bounding  the  Sierra  Nevada  plateau.  The  pass  is  thus  far  of  a 
very  favorable  character — the  length  of  the  ascent  is  22.89  miles;  the  difference  of  elevation, 
1,172  feet;  the  altitude  of  the  summit,  5,667  feet;  and  the  steepest  slope  is  75  feet  per  mile. 

The  plateau  being  gained,  is  crossed  by  a  nearly  level  line  to  the  low  ridge  bounding  it 
on  the  west,  the  summit  elevation  of  which,  5,736  feet,  is  attained  by  following  a  ravine  valley. 

The  descent  to  the  Sacramento  along  one  of  its   tributaries  is  now  commenced,  and  is  at 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE   FORTY  FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND   PARALLELS.  15 

first  rapid.  A  cut  is  proposed  at  the  summit,  120  feet  deep,  running  out  to  the  surface  at 
either  end,  making  a  length  of  four  miles,  and  a  grade  of  124  feet  to  the  mile  for  2.4  miles. 
It  may  be  preferable  to  tunnel  or  to  cut  only  one-half  the  depth  proposed.  The  open  plain 
of  Bound  valley,  on  the  Sacramento,  is  reached  15  miles  from  the  summit,  (difference  of  eleva 
tion  1,300  feet,)  located  for  one-half  that  distance  on  the  mountain  side,  which  is  broken  by 
ravines. 

The  route  now  lies  over  the  smooth  plain  of  Bound  valley  for  15  miles,  to  the  head  of  the 
first  cafion  on  the  Sacramento.  This  canon  is  a  formidable  obstacle  to  be  overcome.  Its  entire 
length  is  nearly  14  miles,  succeeded  by  an  open  valley  of  similar  extent,  which  is  followed 
by  a  second  canon,  nine  miles  in  length,  of  the  same  character  as  the  first.  From  the  mouth 
of  Canoe  creek,  four  miles  below  the  foot  of  the  second  cafion,  for  the  space  of  96  miles  the 
course  of  the  Sacramento  lies  entirely  through  heavily-timbered  mountains,  which  rise  precipi 
tously  from  the  river-banks  to  the  height  of  from  1,500  to  2,000  feet  above  the  stream.  Its 
course  is  very  sinuous,  with  all  varieties  of  curves  greater  than  a  right-angle,  and  is  seldom 
entirely  straight  for  two  miles  consecutively.  The  construction  of  this  portion  of  the  route,  136 
miles  in  length,  would  be  one  of  no  ordinary  difficulty  or  expense  under  the  most  favorable 
circumstances  of  dense  population,  and  the  facilities  of  railroad  construction  which  it  would 
afford.  It  is  impossible,  with  the  data  presented,  to  form  a  reliable  opinion  of  its  probable 
cost. 

Seventeen  miles  above  Fort  Beading  the  open  valley  of  the  Sacramento  is  attained,  over 
which  a  railroad  may  be  carried  to  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  250  or  300  miles  distant. 

The  distance  from  Fort  Bridger  to  Fort  Beading  by  the  line  of  Lieutenant  Beckwith's  profile 
is  1,012  miles  ;  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort  Bridger,  1,072  miles — making  the  whole 
distance  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort  Beading,  on  the  Sacramento,  2,084  miles,  and  to 
Benicia  2,264  miles. 

The  distance  from  Council  Bluffs  to  Benicia  by  the  above  route  is  2,134  miles. 

Using  the  line  along  which  the  route  can  be  located  in  the  Great  Basin,  about  103  miles 
shorter  than  that  travelled,  the  distances  become,  from  Fort  Bridger  to  Fort  Beading,  909 
miles;  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort  Beading,  1,980  miles  ;  and  to  Benicia,  2,161  miles. 

The  distance  from  Council  Bluffs  to  Benicia  becomes  2,031  miles. 

The  points  of  supply  for  ties,  lumber,  &c.,  are  at  distances  apart  of  500,  300,  200,  and 
YOO  miles,  as  timber  is  only  found  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  route,  on  the  Black  Hills, 
Wind  Biver  mountains,  the  Uinta  and  Wahsatch  mountains,  and  on  the  western  slopes  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  scattered  growth  of  cedar  upon  the  Basiu  mountains  may,  perhaps, 
be  found  available  for  ties. 

Should  the  coal-beds  of  Green  river  prove  to  be  of  such  quality  and  extent  as  to  admit  of 
being  profitably  mined,  the  points  of  supply  of  fuel — the  same  as  those  just  designated  for 
lumber — will  be  importantly  increased.  Coal  may  then  be  had  for  nearly  the  cost  of  mining 
it  at  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  road,  for  cost  of  mining  near  its  middle,  and  at  its  western 
terminus  for  the  cost  of  mining,  and  freight  to  that  point  from  Puget  sound. 

Fuel  for  working-parties  will  generally  be  found  contiguous  to  the  route. 

The  winter  climate  is  known  to  be  severe  on  the  plains  east  of  the  Bocky  mountains  in 
this  latitude.  That  it  is  more  severe,  and  of  long  duration,  upon  the  great  table-land  of 
the  Bocky  mountains,  is  to  be  inferred.  Lieut.  BeckAvith  found  the  sun  had  not  yet  begun 
to  melt  the  snow  upon  the  terrace  divide  on  the  western  border  of  the  plateau,  and  about 
1,000  feet  above  it,  when  he  crossed  the  former,  on  the  10th  April.  The  snow  was  here  from 
twelve  to  sixteen  inches  deep,  and  had  accumulated  in  deep  drifts  on  the  northeast  slopes  of 
the  hills  and  ravines.  Captain  Stansbury  found  the  Uinta  mountains  covered  with  snow  for  a 
considerable  distance  from  their  summits  on  the  19th  August.  The  quantity  of  snow  that 
falls  upon  the  great  undulating  plain  between  Fort  Laramie  and  Fort  Bridger  is  not  exactly 
known.  It  is  probable  that  no  unusual  difficulty  may  be  apprehended  from  it  on  this  plain, 


16  ROUTE    NEAR    THE   FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS. 

or  on  the  terrace  divide,  where  crossed  by  Lieut.  Bcckwitli;  but  the  fall  of  snow  in  the  Wah- 
satch  and  other  mountains  is  very  much  greater,  and  accumulates  in  their  gorgeB,  ravines, 
and  canons,  to  great  depths.  Apparently,  Lieut.  Beckwith  does  not  apprehend  unusual 
difficulties  from  this  cause  along  the  proposed  railroad  route  in  this  region,  or  in  that  of  the 
Madeliu  Pass. 

The  supply  of  water  upon  the  Rocky  mountain  plateau  must  be  very  limited  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year:  the  distances  apart  of  these  supplies  are  not  given. 

Abundant  supplies  of  water  were  found  by  Lieut.  Beckwith  on  the  mountains  of  the  Great 
Basin.  The  season  of  the  year  when  he  crossed  it — the  spring — was  the  most  favorable  in 
this  respect. 

On  this  route,  as  on  others,  from  the  98th  or  99th  meridian  to  the  western  slopes  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  a  distance  of  1,400  miles,  the  soil  is  uncultivable,  excepting  the  compara 
tively  limited  area  of  the  Mormon  settlement,  and  an  occasional  river-bottom  and  mountain 
valley  of  small  extent. 

West  of  the  Black  Hills  the  plains  are  covered  with  artemisia,  rarely  furnishing  any  grazing 
except  along  the  water-courses — the  mountains  being  generally  clothed,  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent,  with  grass.  The  barren  aspect  of  the  Great  Basin  has  been  already  described.  In 
that  desolate  region  there  are  but  few  and  very  limited  areas  where  the  conditions  of  soil, 
water,  and  temperature  requisite  for  cultivation,  are  found. 

The  features  of  this  route,  favorable  to  the  economical  construction  of  a  railroad,  are 
apparent  from  the  description  of  it  which  has  just  been  given.  Its  unfavorable  features 
may  be  briefly  described :  as  the  costly  construction,  for  nearly  three  hundred  miles  along 
the  Platte  and  Sweet  Water,  in  ascending  to  the  summit  of  the  South  Pass;  in  the  canon  of 
the  Timpanogos ;  in  the  two  canons  of  the  Sacramento,  fourteen  and  nine  miles  in  length ; 
and  in  the  very  sinuous  course  of  the  river,  for  the  space  of  ninety-six  miles,  through  heavily- 
timbered,  mountains  rising  precipitously  from  the  stream — the  cost  of  constructing  a  railroad 
along  which  cannot  be  properly  estimated  until  minute  surveys  are  made. 

Although  the  route  passes  over  elevated  regions,  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  is  the  next 
least  after  that  of  the  47th  parallel,  which  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  table-land  character  of 
the  mountain  districts. 

It  partakes  of  the  character  of  the  route  near  the  47th  parallel,  in  the  long  and  severe  winters 
on  the  plains  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  westward  to  the  Great  Basin. 

The  cost,  as  estimated  in  the  office,  from  Council  Bluffs  to  Benicia,  a  distance  of  2,031  miles, 
is  $116,095,000. 

The  statistics  of  the  route  will  be  found  in  the  table  appended. 

The  survey  of  the  western  portion  of  this  route  by  Lieutenant  Beckwith,  has  resulted  in  the 
discovery  of  a  more  direct  and  practicable  route  than  was  believed  to  exist  from  the  Great  Salt 
lake  to  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento.  Since  his  report  was  made,  a  brief  communication  from 
Brevet  Lieutenant  Colonel  Steptoe,  commanding  the  troops  in  Utah,  has  announced  the  discovery 
of  a  still  more  direct  route  from  Great  Salt  lake  to  San  Francisco.  The  new  portion  of  this 
route  passes  to  the  south  of  Humboldt  or  Mary's  river,  and,  entirely  avoiding  the  difficulties 
experienced  by  travellers  along  that  stream,  proceeds  to  the  valley  of  Carson  river,  being 
well  supplied  with  water  and  grass.  From  Carson  river  it  crosses  the  Sierra  Nevada  by  the 
passes  at  the  head  of  that  river,  and  descends  to  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  being  practicable 
throughout  for  wagons. 

In  the  absence  of  instrumental  surveys  affording  data  for  the  construction  of  profiles,  no 
opinion  can  be  formed  as  to  the  practicability  of  this  route  for  a  railroad.  Should  it  be  found 
practicable,  however,  it  will  lessen  the  length  of  the  route  of  the  41st  parallel,  and  still  further 
diminish  its  difficulties,  already  known  to  be  less  than  on  any  other  route  except  that  of  the 
32d  parallel. 


ROUTE   NEAR   THE   THIRTY-EIGHTH    AND    THIRTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  17 

ROUTE  NEAR  THE  THIRTY-EIGHTH  AND  THIRTY-NINTH  PARALLELS  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE. 

The  general  consideration  that  determined  the  position  of  the  route  to  be  examined  near 
the  38th  and  39th  parallels  of  latitude,  was  its  central  position  geographically,  it  being  about 
midway  between  the  northern  and  southern  boundary  lines  of  the  United  States,  which  is  like 
wise  the  position,  nearly,  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco ;  the  two  termini  of  the  route,  St.  Louis 
and  San  Francisco,  being  respectively  in  latitudes  39°  and  38°,  nearly.  Moreover,  a  route 
near  these  parallels  would  probably  give  the  shortest  road  from  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco 
to  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  exploration  of  the  route  conducted  by  Captain  J.  W.  Gunnison,  corps  of  Topographical 
Engineers,  commenced  on  the  Missouri  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas,  about  245  miles  from  the 
Mississippi  at  St.  Louis.  The  Kansas,  and  its  branch  called  the  Smoky  Hill  fork,  were  followed 
to  a  convenient  point  for  crossing  to  the  Arkansas,  the  valley  of  this  latter  river  having  been 
entered  west  of  the  Great  Bend  and  near  the  meridian  of  99°.  The  route  then  ascended  the 
valley  of  the  Arkansas  to  the  mouth  of  Apishpa  creek,  fifty  miles  above  Bent's  Fort ;  leaving 
it  here,  and  crossing  to  the  entrance  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  here  called  the  Sierra  Blanca, 
at  the  Huerfano  Butte,  on  the  river  of  that  name,  a  tributary  of  the  Arkansas.  The  elevation 
at  this  point  is  6,099  feet ;  its  distance  from  Westport,  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river,  by  the  rail 
road  route,  654  miles. 

Of  the  several  passes  through  the  Rocky  mountains  connecting  the  tributaries  of  the  Huerfano 
with  those  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  but  one,  the  Sangre  de  Cristo,  was  found  practicable  for  a 
railroad,  the  new  and  only  practicable  approach  to  this  pass  being  explored  by  Capt.  Gunnison. 
By  side  location  the  summit,  9,219  feet  above  the  sea,  692  miles  from  Westport,  was  attained, 
and  the  descent  made  to  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  with  practicable  though  heavy  grades ; 
and  thence  the  grades  were  favorable  to  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Massachusetts. 

The  western  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  is  now  to  be  crossed  in  order  to  gain  and  traverse 
the  basins  of  the  two  great  tributaries  of  the  Colorado  of  the  West,  Grand  and  Green  rivers. 
For  this  purpose  the  valley  of  San  Luis,  an  extensive,  uncultivable  plain,  covered  for  the  most 
part  with  wild  sage,  was  ascended  with  easy  grades  to  Sah watch  creek,  one  of  whose  affluents 
rises  in  a  pass  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  here  called  the  Sahwatch  mountains,  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass. 

The  approach  to  the  summit  of  the  pass,  10,032  feet  above  the  sea,  816  miles  from  Westport, 
is  not  favorable,  the  pass  in  this  part  having  a  defile  character,  overhung  occasionally  by 
walls  of  igneous  rock.  To  cross  the  summit,  a  grade  of  124  feet  per  mile  for  several  miles, 
and  a  tunnel  nearly  two  miles  long,  are  required.  The  descent,  with  grades  varying  from  41  to 
108  feet  per  mile,  is  by  the  valley  of  Pass  creek,  along  which  much  cutting  and  filling  will  be 
necessary,  as  the  hills  are  cut  by  numerous  ravines.  For  16  miles  before  the  junction  of  Pass 
creek  with  Coo-che-to-pa  creek,  the  former  passes  through  a  broken  canon.  After  following 
Coo-che-to-pa  creek  seven  miles,  the  valley  of  Grand  river  is  attained. 

The  route  follows  the  valley  of  this  river  1*73  miles,  then  crosses  the  divide  to  Green  river, 
68  miles,  and  by  the  tributaries  of  the  latter  approaches  the  pass  through  the  Wahsatch  mount 
ains.  A  tunnel  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long  is  here  required,  the  eastern  approach  to  which 
is  by  means  of  a  grade  of  125  feet  per  mile  for  6^  miles,  and  a  descent  to  the  west  for  5  miles 
of  131  feet  per  mile.  Thence  westward  along  the  valley  of  Salt  creek  for  18  miles  the  grade 
is  95  feet  per  mile,  16  miles  of  which  is  through  a  rocky  canon,  intersected  by  lateral  streams. 
The  route  then  enters  the  valley  of  the  Sevier,  the  exploration  terminating  on  this  river,  86 
miles  further  on,  and  1,348  miles  from  Westport. 

From  the  western  border  of  the  State  of  Missouri  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  650  miles,  no 
timber  suitable  for  railroad  purposes  will  be  found,  upon  which  reliance  can  be  placed.  From 
the  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass  to  the  Great  Basin,  500  miles,  there  is  none  available  on  the  route,  and 
the  nearest  supplies  on  the  mountains  bordering  the  Great  Basin  are  in  latitudes  40°  and  41°. 


18  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-EIGHTH    AND    THIRTY- NINTH    PARALLELS. 

\Vith  building-stone  it  is  about  as  well  supplied  as  the  other  routes.  Of  water  there  is  a 
sufficient  supply,  except  between  Grand  and  Green  rivers,  a  distance  of  70  miles,  where,  at 
certain  seasons  of  the  year,  little  or  none  is  found. 

The  soil  west  of  the  meridian  of  99°  is,  under  the  present  meteorological  conditions,  unculti- 
vable,  except  in  limited  portions  of  river-bottoms  and  small  mountain  valleys  ;  these  latter, 
from  their  great  elevation,  being  better  adapted  to  grazing  than  agricultural  pnrposes.  This 
description  is  completely  in  accordance  with  the  geological  formation  and  meteorological  con 
dition  ;  the  former,  from  the  meridian  of  99°  west,  being  apparently  tertiary,  excepting  in  the 
high  mountain  passes. 

This  route  may  be  considered  to  possess,  in  common  with  that  of  the  41st  parallel,  the  large 
body  of  fertile  soil  in  Utah  Territory  occupied  by  the  Mormons,  the  area  of  which  is  about  1,108 
square  miles. 

The  coal  field  of  Missouri  lies  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  this  route ;  the  indications  of  coal  in 
the  Grand  and  Green  River  basins  make  it  highly  probable  that  seams  sufficiently  thick  for 
profitable  mining  exist  there. 

In  regard  to  grade  and  construction,  it  is  unnecessary  to  enter  into  any  discussion  of  that 
portion  of  the  route  from  Westport  to  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Pass.  It  presents  no  peculiar  diffi 
culties  or  advantages,  but  is  similar  to  the  routes  of  the  4Yth  and  41st  parallels. 

It  would  appear  that  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  and  Coo-che-to-pa  Passes  are  practicable  in  grade ; 
but  the  construction  of  the  road  through  the  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass,  and  the  western  approach 
to  it,  would  be  costly  under  favorable  circumstances  of  population,  &c.,  not  only  on  account  of 
the  tunnel,  but  of  the  numerous  ravines  that  are  crossed  west  of  the  pass,  and  the  canon  that 
follows. 

The  following  brief  enumeration  of  the  character  and  extent  of  the  difficulties  to  be  encountered 
between  the  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass  and  the  Great  Basin,  make  it  evident  that  the  route  must  be 
considered  impracticable. 

From  the  head  of  the  canon  on  Grand  river,  not  far  below  the  mouth  of  Coo-che-to-pa  creek, 
to  the  Uncompahgra  river,  a  distance  of  TO  miles,  the  ground  is  cut  up  with  deep,  wide,  pre 
cipitous  ravines,  the  largest  several  hundred  feet  deep.  These  ravines  cannot  be  turned  near 
the  mountains  without  encountering  similar  difficulties,  and  at  a  cost  greater  than  that  of  a 
route  along  the  river.  Thus  the  route  is  forced  upon  Grand  river,  and  along  its  canon,  60 
miles  in  length,  broken  and  interrupted  by  the  deep  ravines  already  mentioned  and  numerous 
smaller  gullies.  The  roadway  throughout  the  greater  part  of  this  distance  must  be  blasted  out 
ot  solid  rock,  and  these  wide  ravines,  from  100  to  200  feet  deep,  where  they  cut  through  the 
canon,  crossed  by  viaducts  or  filling. 

Then  follow  50  miles  to  the  mouth  of  Blue  river,  the  construction  still  of  a  difficult  and  costly 
character,  from  the  canons  of  the  river  and  broken  nature  of  the  ground.  From  Blue  to  Green 
river  is  100  miles,  over  which  the  road  will  require  numerous  bridges  and  culverts,  and  a  costly 
road-bed  foundation  of  broken  stone  or  piling  over  a  clayey  soil,  which  in  wet  weather  is  almost 
impassable. 

From  Green  river  to  the  Wahsatch  Pass,  about  80  miles,  the  construction  would  still  be 
of  a  costly  character,  the  country  being  of  the  same  ravine  and  chasm-like  nature  as  that 
between  the  mouth  of  Coo-che-to-pa  creek  and  Uncompahgra  river,  though  on  a  smaller  scale. 
Next  follows  the  Wahsatch  Pass,  the  work  in  which  is  difficult  and  expensive.  The  greatest 
grade  is  131  feet  per  mile ;  a  tunnel  not  quite  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long  is  requisite ;  and 
finally,  a  canon  16  miles  long  on  Salt  creek,  the  walls  of  which  are  frequently  broken  by 
lateral  streams,  gives  the  only  route  along  which  the  road  can  be  brought,  by  cutting  in  solid 
rock  at  very  great  expense. 

The  difficulties  of  engineering  and  the  cost  of  construction  of  this  portion  of  the  route  from 
the  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass  to  Sevier  river,  in  the  Great  Basin,  a  distance  of  about  500  miles, 
would  be  so  great  that  it  may  be  pronounced  impracticable ;  and  it  is  evident,  from  the  report 


ROUTE    NEAR   THE    THIRTY-EIGHTH   AND    THIRTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  19 

of  Lieutenant  Beckwith,  that,  to  use  his  own  language,  "  no  other  line  exists  in  the  imme 
diate  vicinity  of  this,  worthy  of  any  attention  in  connexion  with  the  construction  of  a  railroad 
from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Great  Basin." 

It  is  unnecessary,  therefore,  to  consider  the  route  further,  or  to  enter  into  any  discussion 
connected  with  the  prohable  practicability  and  cost  of  constructing  and  working  a  railroad  over 
other  portions  of  the  route  where  counterbalancing  advantages  are  not  found  to  compensate,  in 
any  degree,  for  the  enormous  cost  of  that  under  consideration. 

Laying  aside  the  utterly  impracticable  nature  of  this  route,  the  following  considerations 
will  show  its  disadvantages  as  regards  expenses  of  working,  supposing  it  constructed  : 

From  Westport  to  the  west  base  of  the  Un-kuk-oo-ap  mountains  is  1,323  miles;  sum  of 
ascents,  23,190  feet;  of  descents,  19,052  feet;  length  of  equivalent  horizontal  line  for  the  route, 
2,123  miles. 

Of  the  direct  route  from  the  point  at  the  western  base  of  the  Un-kuk-oo-ap  mountains, 
near  where  the  survey  under  Capt.  Gunnison  terminated,  to  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  there 
is  no  survey  or  positive  information.  There  is  every  reason  to  belive  that  it  is,  for  the  most 
part,  a  desert  of  the  same  general  character  as  other  portions  of  the  Great  Basin.  Supposing 
the  route  to  be  a  straight  line,  with  uniform  descent  from  the  Un-kuk-oo-ap  mountains  to 
the  entrance  of  the  Tay-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  in  latitude  35°  5',  (no  pass  being  known  to  be  prac 
ticable  to  the  north  of  it  in  this  portion  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,)  the  distance  will  be  430  miles, 
and  the  descent  1,830  feet;  the  equated  horizontal  distance,  464  miles. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  Tay-ee-chay-pah  Pass  to  San  Francisco  is  326  miles;  sum  of 
ascents,  1,308  feet;  sum  of  descents,  4,608  feet;  equated  length,  440  miles.  Adding  these 
together,  with  the  equated  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  to  the  west  base  of  the 
Un-kuk-oo-ap  mountains,  we  have  the  total  equated  distance  from  Westport  to  San  Francisco, 
3,027  miles — the  length  of  the  straight  horizontal  line,  which  supposes  no  obstacle  to  be 
avoided,  being  only  1,500  miles. 

The  distance  from  Sevier  river  to  Great  Salt  lake  is  120  miles;  sum  of  ascents  and  descents, 
1,600  feet;  equated  distance,  150  miles;  thence  to  Benicia,  by  the  route  near  the  41st  parallel, 
explored  by  Lieut.  Beckwith,  is  872  miles;  sum  of  ascents  and  descents,  15,200  feet:  making 
the  equivalent  horizontal  line  1,160  miles  ;  which  added  to  the  equated  distance  from  West- 
port  to  Sevier  river,  2,050  miles,  we  have  a  total  of  3,360  miles,  as  the  equated  distance  by 
this  route  from  Westport  to  Benicia. 

Neither  in  soil,  climate,  productions,  population,  nor  in  any  other  respect,  does  it  possess 
advantages  superior  to  other  routes  favoring  the  construction  and  working  of  a  railroad. 

The  exploration  of  this  route,  conducted  by  Capt.  Gunnison,  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical 
Engineers,  exhibits  the  high  professional  skill  and  sound  judgment  which  characterized  that 
officer.  The  extensive  and  reliable  information  which  he  collected,  and  the  exact  manner  in 
which  his  operations  were  conducted,  up  to  the  period  when  he  lost  his  life  in  the  discharge  of 
his  duty,  show  how  thoroughly  he  would  have  completed  the  task  he  had  commenced,  and 
how  great  a  loss  the  service  sustained  in  his  untimely  death.  Several  of  his  civil  assistants 
fell  with  him,  and  the  charge  of  the  survey  devolved  upon  Lieut.  Beckwith,  of  the  artillery, 
who  has  made,  from  the  field-notes  left  by  Capt.  Gunnison,  a  thorough  report  of  his  explora 
tions.  Satisfied  of  the  impracticability  of  the  line  he  had  traversed,  Lieut.  Beckwitli  com 
menced  an  exploration  eastward  from  the  Great  Salt  lake,  to  connect  that  position  with  the 
line  of  the  41st  parallel,  and  then  returning  to  Salt  lake,  continued  the  survey  westward  to 
the  waters  of  the  Pacific.  This  work,  in  all  its  parts,  has  been  well  done,  and  the  topography 
well  represented.  More  than  ordinary  credit  is  'due  to  this  officer,  as  the  task  performed  by 
him  was  not  in  the  line  of  his  usual  duties,  and  was  executed  without  the  aid  of  assistants,  and 
with  the  means  left  to  the  party  after  a  season  of  field  operations. 


20  ROUTE   NEAR   THE   THIRTY-FIFTH    PARALLEL. 

KOUTE  NEAR  THE  THIRTY-FIFTH  PARALLEL  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE. 

The  general  features  which  have  determined  the  position  of  this  route,  the  exploration 
of  which  was  conducted  by  Lieut.  A.  W.  Whipple,  Topographical  Engineers,  are  the  exten 
sion,  west  and  east,  of  the  interlocking  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Kio  Grande,  and  the 
Colorado  of  the  West.  It  would  appear  to  possess  also  a  greater  yearly  amount  of  rain  than 
the  regions  immediately  north  and  south  of  it — and,  as  a  consequence,  a  better  supply  of  fuel 
and  timber. 

Commencing  at  Fort  Smith,  on  the  Arkansas  river,  about  270  miles  from  the  Mississippi 
at  Memphis,  the  route,  as  far  as  the  Antelope  Hills  on  the  Canadian,  a  distance  of  400  miles, 
may  follow  either  the  valleys  of  the  Arkansas  and  Canadian,  or  a  shorter  line  perhaps,  but 
over  more  ground,  south  of  the  Canadian,  this  latter  route  branching  again,  and  following 
either  the  valley  of  the  Washita,  or  the  dividing  ridge  between  it  and  the  Canadian. 

From  the  Antelope  Hills  the  route  continues  along  the  bottom  of  the  Canadian,  on  the 
right  bank,  to  the  mouth  of  Tucumcari  creek,  about  250  miles,  and  ascends  by  the  valley  of 
Tucumcari,  or  by  that  of  Pajarito  creek,  to  the  dividing-ridge  between  the  Canadian  and  the 
Pecos  rivers,  elevation  about  5,543  feet,  and  enters  the  valley  of  the  latter.  It  follows  this 
valley  until,  by  means  of  a  tributary,  it  rises  to  the  high  table-land,  or  basin,  lying  east  of 
the  Rocky  mountains,  elevation  about  7,000  feet,  crosses  the  elevated  Salinas  basin,  30  miles 
wide,  the  lowest  point  being  6,471  feet,  and  gains  the  divide  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  eleva 
tion  about  7,000  feet ;  from  which  point  it  descends  to  Albuquerque,  or  Isleta,  on  the  Rio 
Grande,  through  the  San  Pedro  Pass  ;  or  it  may  descend  to  the  Rio  Grande  by  the  valley 
of  the  Galisteo  river,  north  of  Sandia  mountain.  A  third  route  is  indicated  along  the  valley 
of  the  Pecos  to  its  headwaters ;  thence  to  an  affluent  of  the  Galisteo  ;  and  thence,  as  before, 
to  the  Rio  Grande. 

Isleta,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  is  854  miles  from  Fort  Smith,  and  4,945  feet  above  the  sea. 

Crossing  the  ridge  separating  the  Rio  Grande  from  the  Puerco,  the  route  follows  the  valley 
of  its  tributary,  the  San  Jose,  to  one  of  its  sources  in  a  pass  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  called  the 
Camino  del  Obispo;  at  the  summit,  (elevation  8,250  feet,)  a  tunnel  three-fourths  of  a  mile  long, 
at  an  elevation  not  less  than  8,000  feet,  is  required,  when  the  descent  is  made  to  the  Zuni 
river  and  near  the  Pueblo  of  Zuni  ;  the  route  then  crosses,  over  undulating  ground,  to  the 
Puerco  of  the  West,  at  the  Navajo  spring. 

Another  route  across  the  Sierra  Madre,  about  twenty  miles  further  north,  was  examined  by 
Mr.  Campbell,  which  is  apparently  far  more  favorable.  The  profile,  however,  is  not  from 
reliable  instrumental  examination.  The  height  of  the  summit  is  about  7,750  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  Puerco  of  the  West  heads  in  this  pass,  and  the  route  follows  the  valley  of  this  stream, 
(intersecting  the  other  line  at  Navajo  spring,)  to  its  junction  with  the  Colorado  Chiquito  ;  then 
the  valley  of  that  stream  to  the  foot  of  the  southeastern  slopes  of  the  San  Francisco  mountains, 
elevation  4,775  feet;  distance  from  Fort  Smith  1,182  miles,  and  from  the  crossing  of  the  Rio 
Grande  328  miles.  Here  it  ascends  to  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  the  Gila  on 
the  south,  and  of  the  Colorado  o'f  the  West  on  the  north,  and  continues  (or  nearly  so)  upon  it 
for  about  200  miles,  to  the  Aztec  Pass,  elevation  6,281  feet ;  distance  from  Fort  Smith  1,350 
miles.  The  highest  point  reached  upon  this  undulating  ridge  is  7,472  feet,  at  Leroux's 
spring,  at  the  foot  of  the  San  Francisco  mountain.  From  the  Aztec  Pass,  the  descent  to 
the  Colorado  of  the  West  is  made  by  a  circuitous  route  northward  along  valleys  of  its  tribu 
taries,  the  largest  and  last  being  Bill  Williams' s  fork,  the  mouth  of  which,  on  the  Colorado, 
is  1,522  miles  from  Fort  Smith,  and  at  an  elevation  above  the  sea  of  about  208  feet. 

The  Colorado  is  now  ascended  34  miles,  when  the  route,  leaving  it  at  the  Needles,  follows 
what  was  erroneously  supposed  to  be  the  valley  of  the  Mohave  river,  but  which  proved  to  be 
the  valley  of  a  stream,  dry  at  the  time,  whose  source  was  in  an  elevated  ridge,  which  probably 
divides  the  Great  Basin  from  the  waters  of  the  Colorado.  The  summit  having  been  attained, 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-FIFTH    PARALLEL.  21 

at  an  elevation  of  5,262  feet  above  the  sea,  the  descent  is  made  to  Soda  lake,  the  recipient  at 
some  seasons  of  the  waters  of  the  Mohave  river,  1,117  feet  above  the  sea,  with  an  average 
grade  of  100  feet  to  the  mile  for  41  miles — the  steepest  grade  yet  required  on  this  route.  From 
Soda  lake  the  ascent  to  the  summit  of  the  Cajon  Pass,  elevation  4,179  feet,  in  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  is  made  by  following  the  valley  of  the  Mohave  river.  The  summit  of  this  pass,  by 
the  line  of  location,  is  1,798  miles  from  Fort  Smith,  and  242  from  the  point  of  crossing  the 
Colorado.  Here  a  tunnel  of  2£  or  3^  miles  through  white  conglomerate  sandstone  is 
required,  descending  to  the  west  with  an  inclination  of  100  feet  to  the  mile,  which  grade 
will  be  the  average  for  22  miles  into  the  valley  of  Los  Angeles,  if  the  broken  character  of 
the  hills  should  be  found,  upon  careful  examination,  to  admit  of  such  side  location  as  would 
reduce  to  that  degree  the  natural  grades  varying  between  90  and  171  feet  per  mile.  Thence 
to  the  port  of  San  Pedro  the  ground  is  favorable  for  location. 

The  principal  characteristics  of  this  route,  in  comparison  with  others,  are,  probably,  its 
passing  through  or  near  more  numerous  cultivable  areas,  its  more  abundant  natural  supply 
of  water  as  far  west  as  the  Colorado,  and  the  greater  frequency  and  extent  of  forest  growth 
on  the  route  between  the  Eio  Grande  and  the  Colorado.  These  two  latter  characteristics 
entail  a  third,  however,  of  an  unfavorable  nature — the  large  sum  of  ascents  and  descents. 

Near  the  meridian  of  99°  the  change  from  fertile  land  to  uncultivable  is  complete,  excepting 
in  the  river  bottoms,  which  are  more  or  less  fertile.  Some  portions  of  the  upper  valley  of  the 
Canadian,  the  upper  valley  of  the  Pecos,  .the  valleys  of  the  Rio  Grande,  Zuiii,  Colorado 
Chiquito,  San  Francisco,  Colorado  of  the  West,  and  its  tributaries,  possess  a  fertile  soil, 
requiring  generally  irrigation  to  make  it  productive.  That  portion  of  the  southwest  corner  of 
the  Great  Basin  traversed  by  this  route,  and  over  which  the  explorations  of  Lieut.  Williamson 
also  extended,  is  well  constituted  for  fertility,  its  barrenness  resulting  from  the  absence  of  rain. 
Generally  the  uncultivable  plains  have  an  abundance  of  nutritious  grass,  though  there  are 
extensive  tracts  where  little  or  none  is  found. 

The  route  may  be  considered  sufficiently  well  supplied  with  good  building-stone,  since  sand 
stones  suitable  for  the  bridge-building  required  are  reported  to  exist  in  the  generally  soft  trias 
formation,  extending  from  Delaware  mountain,  on  the  Canadian,  to  the  Rocky  mountains, 
a  distance  of  600  miles. 

Forest  growth,  furnishing  timber  of  size  suitable  for  ties  and  lumber  for  railroad  uses,  is 
found  in  the  following  localities :  continuously  on  the  route  east  of  longitude  97° ;  in  or  near  the 
Pecos  valley;  in  the  Rocky  mountains  and  Sierra  Madre;  in  the  Mogollon  mountains,  (south 
of  the  route,)  in  which  the  Colorado  Chiquito  and  some  of  its  tributaries  rise ;  on  the  slopes  of 
the  San  Francisco  mountain;  and  continuously,  with  short  intervals,  for  more  than  120  miles; 
and  on  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  distances  apart  of  these  points  of  supply  are  respectively  540 
miles,  100  miles,  150  miles;  from  the  Sierra  Madre  to  San  Francisco  mountain,  250  miles; 
then  for  a  space  of  about  120  miles  the  supply  may  be  considered  continuous;  thence  to  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  420  miles.  If  the  road  be  built  from  the  two  termini,  the  greatest  spaces  over 
which  ties,  lumber,  &c.,  must  be  brought  by  it  are  400  and  500  miles.  The  route,  therefore, 
in  comparison  with  others,  is  favorably  circumstanced  in  this  respect. 

The  same  localities  will  supply  fuel ;  and,  in  addition,  the  coal-fields  of  Delaware  mountain 
will  furnish  the  eastern  portion  of  the  route  where  wood  cannot  be  economically  used.  It  is 
reported  that  coal  exists  in  several  localities  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  both  east  and  west  of  the 
Rio  Grande,  near  this  route,  but  there  is  no  positive  and  reliable  information  that  it  has 
been  found  in  sufficient  quantities  for  profitable  mining. 

The  route  for  540  miles  east  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  must  receive  its  fuel  from  the  ports  of 
the  Pacific. 

Over  portions  of  this  route,  as  upon  all  others,  no  fuel  whatever,  not  even  sufficient  for 
working  parties,  will  be  found.  The  greatest  distance  over  which  this  total  absence  of 
fuel  exists,  is  between  the  Colorado  and  Mohave  rivers,  115  miles. 


22  ROUTE   NEAR   THE   THIRTY- FIFTH   PARALLEL. 

The  exact  distances  over  which  water  is  not  found  at  certain  seasons  are  not  stated. 

Between  the  100th  meridian  and  the  Pacific  there  are  spaces  destitute  of  it,  where,  from 
the  known  character  of  the  geological  structure,  there  is  no  doubt  that  sufficient  supplies  can  be 
obtained  either  by  deep  common  wells,  artesian  wells,  or  reservoirs. 

These  more  abundant  supplies  of  timber  and  water,  west  of  the  Bio  Grande,  are  attained 
at  the  expense  of  great  elevation  and  somewhat  rugged  ground. 

The  Galisteo  Pass  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  the  passes  in  the  Sierra  Madre,  being  wide 
openings,  or  valleys,  rather  than  mountain  passes,  no  difficulty  need  be  apprehended  from 
snow,  even  if  it  fell  to  greater  depths  than  those  known ;  over  the  remainder  of  the  route  no 
difficulty  from  this  cause  is  to  be  met  with. 

The  sum  of  the  ascents  from  San  Pedro  to  Fort  Smith  is  24,641  feet;  of  descents,  21,171 
feet;  equivalent,  in  the  cost  of  working  the  road,  to  an  increased  horizontal  distance  of  924.5, 
which  added  to  the  length  of  the  line  of  location,  1,892  miles,  gives  for  length  of  equated  dis 
tance  2,816  miles. 

The  general  features  of  the  country  indicated  lines  for  examination  at  more  than  one  point, 
which  will  probably  greatly  improve  the  route  by  reducing  the  ascents  and  shortening  distances. 
The  party  was,  however,  unable  to  examine  them. 

The  heaviest  grades  that  will  probably  be  required  on  the  route  from  Fort  Smith  to  San 
Pedro,  do  not  equal  those  in  use  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad. 

The  description  of  the  topographical  features  of  the  route  is  not  sufficiently  minute  to  enable 
one  to  form  a  satisfactory  opinion  of  the  difficulties  of  ground  to  be  encountered,  and,  con 
sequently,  of  the  probable  cost  of  the  formation  of  the  road-bed.  Lieut.  "VVhipple  assimilates 
the  several  portions  of  the  route  to  roads  already  built,  possessing,  as  nearly  as  possible,  similar 
features  and  difficulties. 

Four  hundred  and  eighty  (480)  miles  of  the  route  are  assimilated  to  the  Hudson  River  rail 
road,  151  miles  to  the  Worcester  and  Albany  railroad,  (Western  railroad,)  and  374  miles  to 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad — making  1,005  miles  assimilated  to  railroads  among  the  most 
costly  that  have  been  constructed  in  the  United  States. 

The  impression  given  by  the  description  of  the  route  in  the  report  induces  the  opinion  that 
the  ground  is  more  favorable  than  the  comparison  of  Lieut.  Whipple  supposes. 

Assuming  this  assimilation  to  be  correct,  and  bringing  the  estimate  to  a  uniform  standard 
of  increased  cost  over  eastern  prices  and  of  equipment,  the  estimated  cost  of  the  route  from 
Fort  Smith  to  San  Pedro  becomes  $169,210,265. 

This  estimate  is  believed  to  be,  as  above  stated,  in  excess ;  but  the  data  for  reducing  it  have 
not  yet  been  reported  to  the  department. 

Should  it  be  desired  to  reach  San  Francisco  by  the  Tulares  and  San  Joaquin  valleys,  the 
route  should  leave  the  Mohave  valley  some  30  miles  before  reaching  the  entrance  to  the  Cajon 
Pass,  1,768  miles  from  Fort  Smith — elevation  about  2,555  feet — and  proceed  across  the  south- 
/  west  corner  of  the  Great  Basin  towards  the  ^ah-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  reaching  its  entrance  at  an 
elevation  of  3,300  feet,  in  a  distance  of  about  80  miles.  The  route  from  this  point  is  coincident 
with  that  hereafter  described  for  the  32d  parallel. 

The  sum  of  ascents  from  San  Francisco  to  Fort  Smith,  by  the  route  from  Mohave  river  to 
y  Tayee-chay-pah  Pass,  is  25,570  feet;  of  descents,  25,100  feet;  the  equivalent  in  miles  of  hori 
zontal  road  is  963  miles,  which  added  to  the  location-distance  between  those  two  points,  2,174 
miles,  gives  for  equated  length  of  road  3,137  miles. 

The  exploration  of  the  route  by  Lieut.  Whipple,  and  his  report  thereon,  are  entitled  to 
the  highest  commendation,  for  the  completion  of  the  work  in  all  its  parts,  the  full  and  exact 
observations  which  he  made  for  the  determination  of  longitudes  and  latitudes,  and  the  wide 
range  of  scientific  research  which  he  instituted  into  all  the  collateral  branches  connected  with 
the  question  which  his  exploration  was  designed  to  solve. 


ROUTE   NEAR   THE   THIRTY-SECOND   PARALLEL.  23 

ROUTE  NEAR  THE  THIRTY-SECOND  PARALLEL  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE. 

Among  the  considerations  which  determine  the  general  position  of  the  route  near  the  32d 
parallel,  are  the  low  elevation  of  the  mountain  passes  in  this  latitude,  and  their  favorable 
topographical  features,  as  well  as  those  of  the  table-lands,  extending  over  more  than  1,000 
miles  of  the  route ;  the  favorable  character  of  the  surface  generally,  on  the  route,  by  which  the 
most  costly  item  of  construction  in  railroads,  the  formation  of  the  road-bed,  is,  in  a  great 
measure,  avoided  ;  the  shortness  of  the  line,  1,600  miles,  from  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Mis 
sissippi  to  the  Pacific,  and  the  temperate  climate  on  the  elevated  portions  in  this  southern 
latitude.  * 

The  explorations  made  upon  this  route  are,  from  Preston,  on  Red  river,  to  the  Rio  Grande, 
by  Capt.  John  Pope,  Topographical  Engineers ;  from  the  Rio  Grande,  near  Fort  Fillmore,  to 
the  Pimas  villages,  on  the  Gila,  by  Lieut.  John  G.  Parke,  Topographical  Engineers.  From 
the  Pimas  villages  to  the  mouth  of  the  Gila,  the  reconnaissance  in  New  Mexico  and  California 
of  Major  W.  H.  Emory,  Topographical  Engineers,  in  1846,  has  been  used;  and  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Gila  to  San  Francisco,  the  exploration  of  Lieut.  R.  S.  Williamson,  Topographical 
Engineers,  has  furnished  the  data. 

Fulton,  on  the  Red  river,  about  150  miles  from  the  Mississippi,  may  be  considered  the 
eastern  terminus  of  the  route,  although  the  examination  of  Capt.  Pope  extends  only  to  Pres 
ton,  133  miles  further  west.  A  direct  line  from  Fulton  to  the  point  on  the  eastern  border  of 
the  Llano  Estacado  selected  by  Capt.  Pope  for  crossing  it,  would  give  more  favorable  ground 
than  that  traversed  by  him  between  Preston  and  this  point;  the  latter  in  a  distance  of  352  miles 
gives  generally  easy  grades  and  cheap  construction  through  a  country  alternately  wooded  and 
open,  abundantly  supplied  with  water  and  fuel,  and  with  forest  growth  suitable  for  ties  and 
lumber  for  two-thirds  of  the  length.  From  Fulton  to  the  eastern  border  of  the  Llano  Esta 
cado  is  485  miles,  3*70  of  which  are  wooded. 

The  exploration  of  Capt.  Pope  comprised  three  distinct  belts  of  country,  the  first  of  which 
has  been  just  described  above.  The  second  is  the  Llano  Estacado,  whose  mean  elevation  is 
4,500  feet,  the  smooth  surface  of  which  along  the  route  proposed,  125  miles  from  the  eastern 
border  to  the  Pecos  river,  presents  in  this  respect  great  facilities  for  the  construction  of  a 
railroad.  It  is,  however,  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  destitute  of  water,  is  scantily  supplied 
with  grass,  and  not  a  single  tree  is  to  be  seen  upon  it.  Its  geological  formation  is  such  as  to 
render  the  success  of  obtaining  water  by  artesian  wells,  at  moderate  depths,  highly  probable. 
During,  and  for  some  time  subsequent  to  the  rainy  season,  there  are  here,  as  on  most  other 
arid  plains,  numerous  ponds,  the  contents  of  which  might  be  collected  in  reservoirs ;  but  the 
distance  from  the  Colorado  Springs  to  the  Pecos,  125  miles,  is  not  so  great  as  to  form  a  serious 
obstacle  to  the  working  of  a  railroad. 

Between  the  Pecos  and  the  Rio  Grande,  163  miles,  three  mountain  chains  rise  from  the 
table-lands,  the  Guadalupe,  Hueco,  and  Organ  mountains.  The  Guadalupe  mountain  is 
crossed  without  a  tunnel,  elevation  of  summit  5,717  feet,  and  with  a  grade  of  108  feet  to  the 
mile  for  22  miles.  A  high  viaduct  and  heavy  cutting  and  filling  for  three  miles  near  the 
summit,  form  the  costly  and  difficult  part  of  the  pass.  The  Waco  Pass  is  still  more  favora 
ble,  the  greatest  grade  being  about  80  feet  to  the  mile;  the  elevation  of  the  summit,  4,812 
feet.  The  Organ  mountain  is  turned  just  before  reaching  the  Rio  Grande  at  Molino  and  El 
Paso. 

A  peculiarity  of  the  mountains  in  the  western  part  of  the  continent,  in  this  and  other  lati 
tudes,  is,  that  they  have  no  intervening  deep  secondary  valleys  between  the  main  chain  and 
the  plains.  Over  the  usually  uniform  and  smooth  surface  of  these  last,  the  general  elevation 
of  which,  between  the  Pecos  and  the  Rio  Grande,  is  from  4,000  to  4,500  feet,  the  valley  of  the 
Rio  Grande  is  attained  near  Molino,  at  an  elevation  of  3,830  feet,  and  at  a  distance  of  787 
miles  from  Fulton. 


24  ROUTE   NEAR   THE   THIRTY-SECOND   PARALLEL. 

The  region  between  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Pimas  villages  on  the  Gila,  just  above  which 
point  the  latter  leaves  the  mountain  region,  may  be  described  as  a  great  plain,  interrupted 
irregularly  and  confusedly  by  bare,  rugged,  abrupt,  isolated  mountains  or  short  ranges,  around 
or  through  the  passes  in  which  a  railroad  may  be  constructed  with  quite  practicable  grades. 
The  mean  elevation  of  this  plain,  or  series  of  basins  into  which  the  ridges  divide  it,  is  about 
4,100  feet;  the  mean  elevation  of  the  summits  of  the  passes  through  the  ridges  is  4,100  feet, 
the  highest,  through  the  Chiricahui  range,  being  5,180  feet.  Except  through  the  passes,  tho 
surface  is  so  smooth  as  to  require  but  little  preparation  to  receive  the  superstructure  of  a  rail 
road  ;  and  even  in  the  two  most  difficult  of  the  passes,  the  natural  slope  of  the  ground  may  be 
used  for  a  railroad  until  the  construction  of  the  road  reduces  the  cost  of  materials  and  supplies 
to  the  lowest  rates.  In  one  of  these  two  passes  (the  Chiricahui)  the  steepest  natural  slope  is 
194  feet  per  mile  for  2£  miles.  In  the  second  pass  the  steepest  natural  slope  is  240  feet  per 
mile  for  three-fourths  of  a  mile.  Both  these  grades  are  within  the  power  of  a  thirty-ton  engine, 
carrying  200  passengers  and  baggage. 

In  one  case  deep  cutting  in  rock,  or  a  tunnel  near  the  surface,  at  the  summit,  with  heavy 
side  cutting  and  high  embankments  for  short  distances ;  and,  in  the  other,  a  short  cut  of  60  feet, 
probably  through  rock,  are  proposed  by  Lieut.  Parke,  to  attain  grades  of  46  feet  and  9X)  feet 
per  mile,  or  less  by  increasing  distance. 

The  great  difficulty  experienced  in  crossing  this  district  is  in  the  long  distances  over  which 
no  water  is  found  at  certain  seasons.  The  survey  by  Lieut.  Parke  was  made  during  the  dryest 
season  of  the  year,  and,  irrespective  of  the  springs  found  at  intermediate  points,  the  whole 
distance  between  the  two  rivers,  Rio  Grande  and  Gila,  may  be  divided  into  five  spaces,  varying 
from  80  to  53  miles  in  length,  at  the  termination  of  which  large  permanent  supplies  of  water 
are  found  at  the  most  unfavorable  season  of  the  year. 

These  spaces  and  points  are — 

From  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  Rio  Mimbres 71  miles. 

From  the  Rio  Mimbres  to  the  stream  of  the  Yalle  cle  Sauz 72      " 

From  the  Valle  de  Sauz  to  the  SanPedro 80      " 

From  the  San  Pedro  to  Tuczon 53      " 

From  Tuczon  to  the  Gila 79      " 

Not  counting  the  stream  of  the  Valle  de  Sauz,  the  distance  from  the  Rio  Mimbres  to  the  San 
Pedro  is  152  miles;  which  distance  is  not  so  great  that  railroad  trains  could  not  cross  it 
without  water,  special  arrangements  having  been  made  for  the  purpose.  But  this  is  the  worst 
aspect  of  the  case.  At  other  seasons  the  supply  of  water  is  more  abundant,  and  lakes  and 
ponds  are  formed  upon  the  plains,  which  may  be  drained  into  tanks;  and  the  geological 
formation  is  such  as  to  indicate  the  existence  of  sufficient  supplies  of  water  beneath  the  surface, 
which  may  be  brought  to  it  by  artesian  wells. 

The  line  proposed  by  Lieut.  Parke  leaves  the  Rio  Grande  near  Fort  Fillmore,  35  miles 
from  Molino,  between  which  points  the  river,  where  confined  to  one  channel,  is  about  300 
yards  wide,  crosses  the  district  just  described,  and  enters  the  valley  of  the  Gila  near  the  Pimas 
villages,  the  elevation  above  the  sea  being  1,365  feet.  The  route  then  follows  this  river  to  its 
junction  with  the  Colorado,  a  distance  of  223  miles,  with  a  general  slope  of  5.6  feet  per  mile. 
The  Gila,  in  this  distance,  flows  through  a  plain  with  occasional  mountains,  ridges,  and 
peaks ;  its  valley  is  highly  favorable  to  cheap  construction  from  its  generally  smooth  surface, 
and  from  not  being  liable  to  freshets. 

From  the  point  now  attained,  the  nearest  port  in  our  territory  is  San  Diego,  but  the  passes 
of  the  intervening  Coast  range  are  very  difficult,  if  not  impracticable,  and  the  route  is  forced 
northward  to  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass,  which  is  much  the  most  favorable  of  the  passes  in  the 
Coast  range  explored  by  Lieut.  Williamson  for  this  route.  It  is  an  open  valley,  from  two  to 
five  miles  wide,  the  surface  smooth  and  unbroken,  affording,  in  its  form  and  inclination,  every 
facility  to  the  building  of  a  railroad.  The  entrance  of  this  pass  is  133  miles  from  the  mouth 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE   THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL.  25 

of  the  Gila,  in  a  straight  line  over  the  Colorado  desert,  a  smooth  and  nearly  horizontal  plain, 
requiring  but  little  preparation  for  the  superstructure  of  a  railroad.  Thirty-five  miles  of  this 
is  a  gravel  plain;  the  remainder  is  alluvial  soil,  which  only  needs  irrigation  to  be  highly 
productive.  On  this  latter  soil,  water  is  found  at  a  depth  of  30  feet. 

The  steepest  natural  slope,  in  ascending  to  the  summit  of  this  valley  pass,  (elevation  2,808 
feet,)  is  132  feet  per  mile  for  two  miles. 

San  Diego  and  San  Pedro  can  be  reached  by  lines  of  about  equal  length  from  the  San 
Gorgonio  Pass.  To  the  former,  the  first  section  of  the  route  to  San  Luis  Rey  (about  *75  miles 
long)  would  pass  through  a  country  generally  favorable  to  the  construction  of  a  railroad, 
being  a  plain  with  numerous  hills  from  500  to  1,000  feet  high,  irregularly  distributed  on 
its  surface,  between  and  around  which  a  road  may  be  carried  with  favorable  grades.  Between 
San  Luis  Rey  and  San  Diego,  however,  about  40  or  45  miles,  the  coast  is  cut  into  numerous 
deep  intricate  gullies  by  the  drainage  of  the  plain. 

To  San  Pedro,  about  125  miles,  the  route  lies  almost  wholly  over  the  same  description  of 
ground  as  that  constituting  the  first  section  of  the  San  Diego  route,  and  avoids  the  obstacles 
presented  by  the  second.  It  is,  therefore,  assumed  that  the  terminus  of  this  route  should  be  at 
San  Pedro,  the  point  which  it  has  now  reached.  It  may,  however,  be  proper  to  remark  that 
San  Pedro  is  an  open  roadstead,  and  would  require  the  construction  of  a  breakwater  to  constitute 
it  a  safe  harbor. 

From  the  report  of  Capt.  Pope,  it  would  appear  that  the  belt  of  fertile  land  which  lies  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi  throughout  its  length,  extends  on  this  route  nearly  to  the 
headwaters  of  the  Colorado  of  Texas,  in  about  longitude  102° — that  is,  about  three  degrees 
further  west  than  on  the  more  northern  routes.  The  evidence  adduced  in  support  of  this  opinion 
is  not,  however,  conclusive;  and,  until  it  is  rendered  more  complete,  the  fertile  soil  must  be 
considered  in  this,  as  in  other  latitudes,  to  terminate  about  the  99th  meridian.  Thence  to  the 
Pacific  slopes  the  route  is  over  uncultivable  soil,  though  generally  grassed,  the  exceptions  being, 
as  on  the  route  of  the  35th  parallel,  in  portions  of  the  valleys  of  the  Pecos,  Rio  Grande,  Grila, 
and  Colorado  of  the  West.  The  table-lands  and  mountain  slopes  are  usually  well  covered  with 
grama-grass,  and  in  New  Mexico  have  supported  immense  herds  of  cattle.  There  are  excep 
tions  to  this,  however,  on  the  greater  portion  of  the  Llano  Estacado,  on  portions  of  the  plains 
between  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Gila ;  and  (comprised  in  that  space)  from  Tuczon  to  the  Gila, 
80  miles,  there  is  no  grass  on  the  route  travelled,  nor  is  it  to  be  found  on  the  Lower  Gila 
valley;  occasional  patches  of  bunch-grass  only  being  found  on  the  plain,  and  a  species  of 
grama- grass  sometimes  upon  the  mountain  sides.  No  grass  is  found  on  the  Colorado  desert, 
135  miles  along  the  line  of  location. 

The  length  of  the  route  through  this  generally  uncultivable  soil  is  1,210  miles.  Upon 
descending  from  the  summit  of  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass,  on  the  route  to  San  Pedro,  the 
soil  is  fertile,  and  either  well  watered  or  can  be  irrigated. 

The  climate  throughout  the  route  is  salubrious,  the  heat  due  its  southern  latitude  being 
moderated  by  the  elevation  of  the  table-lands.  On  the  Colorado  desert  it  is  torrid,  but  not 
unhealthy,  and  much  of  the  country  west  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Coast  range  is  celebrated 
for  health  and  agreeableness. 

The  principal  characteristic  of  this  route  is  the  great  extent  of  high,  arid,  smooth,  and 
nearly  horizontal  table-lands  which  it  traverses,  reaching  an  elevation  of  4,000  feet  upon 
the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Brazos  and  Colorado  rivers  of  Texas,  near  which  elevation  it 
continues  until  it  descends  from  the  pass  of  the  Sierra  de  Santa  Catarina  to  the  Gila  river,  a 
space  of  nearly  600  miles.  The  elevation  at  the  summit  of  the  Llano  Estacado  is  4,700  feet, 
and  in  the  passes  of  the  Guadalupe  and  Hueco  mountains,  east  of  the  Rio  Grande,  5, TOO  and 
4,800  feet,  respectively.  Between  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Gila,  the  greatest  elevation,  which 
is  twice  attained,  is  5,200  feet;  the  mean  elevation,  before  the  descent  to  the  Gila  is  com 
menced,  being  4,100  feet.  From  the  eastern  edge  of  the  Llano  Estacado  to  the  pass  of  San 


26  ROUTE    NEAR    TUB   THIRTY-SECOND   PARALLEL. 

Gorgonio,  1,052  miles,  the  route  crosses  three  rivers,  the  Pecos,  the  Rio  Grande,  and  tlie 
Great  Colorado  of  the  West.  The  peculiar  features  of  the  arid  region  over  which  the  route  lies 
from  the  eastern  edge  of  the  Llano  Estacado  to  the  summit  of  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass,  prove, 
when  closely  examined,  to  be  most  favorable  to  the  construction  of  a  railroad,  since  they  obviate 
to  a  great  degree  the  necessity  of  the  most  costly  item  of  railroad  construction,  the  prepara 
tion  of  the  road-bed  for  the  superstructure  ;  this  preparation,  with  few  and  limited  excep 
tions,  throughout  a  distance  of  about  1,000  miles,  having  been  already  made  by  nature.  This 
item  amounts  to  from  one-half  to  three-fourths  of  the  whole  cost  of  a  railroad.  Draining  and 
ballasting  are  also  dispensed  with  at  the  same  time.  Over  the  remaining  portions  of  the  route, 
the  ground  is  generally  favorable  to  the  construction  of  the  road-bed.  The  mountain  passes  are, 
of  their  kind,  highly  favorable,  those  west  of  the  Rio  Grande  requiring  no  difficult  engineering 
for  location  through  them,  and  but  little  rock  excavation  or  expensive  embankment  and  side- 
cutting.  The  Guadalupe  and  Hueco  Passes  are  more  difficult. 

The  most  unfavorable  supposition"  for  supplies  of  ties  and  lumber  for  the  construction  of 
that  portion  of  the  route  between  the  eastern  limit  of  the  Llano  Estacado  and  the  summit  of  the 
San  Gorgonio  Pass,  1,052  miles,  is  that  they  are  to  come  from  either  end  of  the  road,  from  300 
miles  east  of  the  Llano  Estacado,  and  from  the  port  of  San  Pedro  on  the  Pacific,  1,400  miles 
apart. 

It  is  supposed  that  the  road  is  to  be  built  from  both  ends,  in  sections  not  greater  than  50 
miles  each,  and  made  to  aid  in  building  itself,  transporting  its  own  material,  &c.,  so  far  as 
the  proper  adjustment  of  economy  of  time  and  means  will  admit;  this  would  bring  the  mean 
cost  of  lumber  over  this  distance  of  1,052  miles  to  $52^  per  1,000  feet,  and  the  mean  cost  of  ties 
to  $1,760  per  mile. 

The  worst  case  having  been  examined,  it  remains  to  be  said  that  ties  and  lumber  can  be 
obtained  on  and  near  this  portion  of  the  route  from  the  Guadalupe  and  Hueco  mountains, 
from  the  headwaters  of  the  Rio  Mimbres,  from  the  Final  Lleno,  from  the  Salinas  river  (tribu 
tary  of  the  Gila)  and  headwaters  of  the  San  Francisco,  and  from  the  San  Bernardino  mount 
ains  of  the  Coast  range ;  which  sources  of  supply,  the  length  apart  of  the  most  distant  being 
500  miles,  may  be  found  to  materially  obviate  the  necessity  of  transporting  lumber  from  the 
two  ends  of  the  road. 

The  coal  of  the  Brazos  and  that  from  Puget  sound  may  be  used  over  the  1,200  miles  from 
San  Pedro,  to  within  200  miles  of  the  Brazos,  at  a  mean  cost  per  ton  of  $16. 

The  portions  of  the  route  where  unusual  means  must  be  resorted  to  for  supplies  of  water, 
have  already  been  pointed  out.  Under  the  most  unfavorable  suppositions,  the  cost  per  mile, 
over  these  portions,  of  obtaining  water  by  artesian  wells,  will  not  probably  exceed  $1,000, 
an  expenditure  greatly  overbalanced  by  the  saving  in  road-bed  formation,  from  the  regu 
larity  and  smoothness  of  surface  of  the  arid  regions. 

The  mode  and  probable  cost  of  obtaining  water  at  short  distances  in  these  dry  regions, 
by  artesian  wells,  reservoirs,  and  deep  common  wells,  are  discussed  in  the  accompanying 
detailed  reports.  The  practicability  of  the  method  by  artesian  wells  is  now  being  sub 
jected  to  trials. 

If  these  should  fail,  of  which,  however,  in  the  Llano  Estacado,  there  is  little  probability, 
the  permanent  streams  and  large  springs  are  sufficiently  near  for  the  purposes  of  a  railroad  ; 
and  since  its  construction  over  these  districts  will  require  small  working  parties,  the  expense  of 
supplying  them  with  water  and  fuel,  when  necessary,  will  not  largely  increase  the  cost  of  con 
struction.  It  is  probable  that  the  region  between  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Gila,  350  miles 
by  the  route  explored,  is  more  arid  than  corresponding  regions  on  the  more  northern  routes, 
but  the  construction  of  works  of  an  unusual  kind  on  railroads  for  supplies  of  water,  are  as 
essential  on  all  these  routes  as  upon  that  now  under  consideration. 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL.  27 

The  length  of  this  route  from  Fulton  to  San  Pedro  is 1,618  miles. 

The  sum  of  the  ascents  and  descents 32,784  feet ; 

To  overcome  which  is  equivalent,  in  the  cost  of  working  the  road,  to  traversing  a 

horizontal  distance  of  621  miles;  and  the  equated  length  of  the  road  is 2,239  miles. 

The  estimated  cost  is $68,970,000 

EXTENSION  OF   THE  KOTJTE  OF  THE  THIRTY-SECOND  PARALLEL  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

For  a  connexion  with  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  the  most  direct  route  from  the  San  Gor- 
gonio  Pass  would  be  through  one  of  the  passes  leading  from  the  plain  of  Los  Angeles  to  the 
valley  of  Salinas  river.  The  practicability  of  these  passes  is  yet  to  be  determined,  and  an 
exploration  is  now  being  made  for  this  purpose.  With  the  information  now  possessed,  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco  must  be  reached  by  crossing  the  Coast  range  to  the  Great  Basin, 
passing  over  its  southwestern  extremity,  then  crossing  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  descending  to 
the  Tulares  valley. 

The  best  pass  by  which  to  reach  the  Great  Basin  is  the  "  New  Pass,"  made  known  by 
Lieut.  Williamson's  explorations. 

Descending  from  the  summit  of  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass  to  the  town  of  San  Bernardino,  24  or 
25  miles  distant,  with  natural  slopes  less  than  80  feet  per  mile,  excepting  for  1.3  mile,  where 
the  slope  is  127  feet  per  mile,  the  route  to  the  Mission  and  Low  Pass  of  San  Fernando  (about 
100  miles  from  the  summit  of  San  Gorgonio)  is  over  a  country  giving  gently  undulating 
grades,  and  in  other  respects  favorable  to  construction,  in  fertile  soil,  building-stone,  water, 
and  fuel. 

The  San  Fernando  Pass  is  about  eight  miles  through.  Its  summit  has  an  elevation  of  1,949 
feet.  A  tunnel  is  required  one-third  of  a  mile  long,  through  soft  sandstone,  203  feet  below 
the  summit.  An  ascent  of  620  feet  is  made  on  the  south  side,  with  grades  of  155  feet  per  mile 
for  four  miles  along  the  natural  slopes,  which  cannot  be  reduced  by  side  location  without  great 
expense,  and  a  descent  of  four  miles  of  115  feet  per  mile,  with  heavy  side-cutting  in  earth  on 
the  north  side.  The  ascent  to  the  New  Pass  in  the  valley  of  Santa  Clara  is  now  begun,  and 
with  a  cut  of  50  feet  for  a  short  distance  at  the  summit  in  drift,  the  summit  is  attained  in  29 
miles  over  natural  slopes  without  side  location,  and  with  grades  varying  from  55  to  105  feet 
per  mile.  For  the  space  of  one  mile  on  the  ascent,  the  mountains  close  in  precipitously,  and 
the  streams  wind  abruptly  ;  and  it  may  be  necessary  here  to  cut  two  or  perhaps  three  short 
tunnels,  from  100  to  300  feet  long,  through  slaty  granite.  The  elevation  of  the  summit  is 
3,164  feet.  Descending  to  the  Great  Basin,  cutting  and  filling  will  be  required  for  two  or  three 
miles  to  adjust  the  natural  slope  to  the  grade  west  of  the  summit.  After  that,  and  until 
descending  into  the  Tulares  valley  by  the  Tah-ee-ch ay-pah  Pass,  a  distance  of  about  70  miles, 
the  ground  will  require  little  preparation  for  the  superstructure.  The  lowest  level  descended 
to  in  the  Great  Basin  is  about  2,900  feet. 

The  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  first  explored  throughout  by  Lieut.  E.  S.  Williamson,  is  the  most 
favorable  in  this  part  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Its  summit  is  a  nearly  horizontal  prairie  for  7^ 
miles.  The  elevation  of  its  entrance  from  the  Great  Basin  is  3,300  feet,  from  which  the 
natural  slope  ascends  at  the  rate  of  22  feet  to  the  mile  for  12  miles,  then  at  80  feet  per  mile 
for  9  miles,  to  the  prairie  summit. 

The  descent  to  the  Tulares  valley  is  15|  miles  by  the  natural  slopes,  which  vary  from  153  to 
192  feet  per  mile,  a  side  location  in  earth-cutting  giving  an  average  grade  of  144  feet  per  mile 
for  17  miles,  which  maybe  reduced  still  further  by  an  extension  to  21  miles — the  Tulares  valley 
being  entered  at  an  elevation  of  1,489  feet.  There  are  two  intervals  of  13  and  17  miles  in  the 
Great  Basin  where  there  is  no  water.  Artesian  wells  here,  as  in  the  similar  formations  between 
the  Kio  Grande  and  the  Gila,  will  probably  reach  supplies  at  moderate  depths.  Deep  common 
wells  may  be  successfully  resorted  to. 


28  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL. 

The  natural  slopes  of  the  three  passes  just  considered  are  within  the  power  of  a  30-ton  engine 
with  a  load  of  200  passengers,  each  with  100  pounds  of  haggage. 

Supposing  20-ton  engines  used,  and  that  they  carried  the  maximum  loads  adapted  to  the  other 
portions  of  the  road,  where  the  greatest  grades  are  40  feet  to  the  mile,  it  would  be  necessary 
to  divide  this  load  into  three  parts  to  pass  a  grade  of  150  feet  per  mile;  and  the  grades  being 
brought  to  that,  its  disadvantage  consists  in  the  expense  of  two  additional  engines  worked 
through  the  passes. 

From  the  head  of  the  Tulares  valley,  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  may 
be  reached  in  several  ways. 

The  eastern  side  of  the  Tulares  and  San  Joaquin  valleys  is  intersected  by  numerous  streams 
from  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  western  is  bounded  by  the  Coast  chain,  and  has  few  streams. 
That  part  of  the  Tulares  valley  between  Kern  and  San  Joaquin  rivers,  a  space  of  150  miles, 
having  a  soft  alluvial  soil,  is,  at  certain  seasons,  miry;  a  road,  therefore,  extending  through  it, 
should  keep  near  the  foot-slopes  of  the  mountains.  From  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass  to  the  best 
point  of  crossing  Kern  river,  21^  miles,  the  route  passes  over  a  dry,  dusty  plain,  destitute 
of  water  and  fuel,  the  soil  of  which  is  not  well  constituted  for  fertility. 

From  the  crossing  of  Kern  river  to  the  second  crossing  of  the  San  Joaquin,  near  Grayson's, 
the  numerous  river-beds  or  bottoms  should  be  crossed  on  piles,  the  spaces  varying  from  50  to 
300  feet — the  greatest  width  to  be  spanned  not  exceeding  100  feet.  From  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass 
to  the  Straits  of  Martinez,  the  location  distance  would  be  288  miles.  The  most  direct  route 
to  San  Francisco  from  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass  will  be  found  through  one  of  the  passes  known 
to  exist  in  the  mountain  range  separating  the  Tulares  and  San  Joaquin  valleys  from  those  of 
the  Salinas  and  San  Jose  rivers.  The  distance  through  it  is  about  10  miles ;  the  elevation 
of  the  passes  about  600  feet.  From  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass  the  route  should  cross  to  the  western 
side  of  the  Tulares  valley,  around  the  head  of  the  lakes,  and  enter  the  Salinas  valley  as  soon  as 
practicable. 

The  soil  of  the  Tulares  valley,  north  of  Kern  river,  and  of  the  San  Joaquin  valley,  is  well 
constituted  for  fertility,  and  needs  merely  the  proper  amount  of  water  to  be  highly  productive. 
Sufficient  water  and  fuel  for  working  parties  can  be  found  at  convenient  distances  on  this  section, 
(excepting  where  it  crosses  the  Great  Basin,  and  approaching  Kern  river;  the  amount  of 
deficiency  on  these  portions  having  been  already  given.)  Lumber  and  good  building-stone 
are  found  at  various  points  in  the  mountains,  accessible  from  their  foot-slopes.  For  fuel  for 
locomotives,  the  coal  of  Puget  sound  and  Vancouver's  island  must  probably  be  depended  upon. 

The  topographical  features  of  this  extension  of  the  route  are,  with  the  exception  of  the  mount 
ains,  favorable  to  cheap  construction.  The  mountain  passes  are  likewise  of  a  favorable  character, 
their  only  objectionable  feature  being  their  high  grades.  The  nature  and  extent  of  this  objection 
has  been  already  stated,  and,  it  is  seen,  is  not  serious. 

From  Fulton  to  San  Francisco  the  distance  is  2,039  miles ;  the  sum  of  the  ascents  and  descents 
42,008  feet,  which  is  equivalent  to  795  miles;  and  the  equated  length  of  the  road  is  2,834 
miles;  the  estimated  cost  is  $93,120,000. 

To  Lieut.  Williamson,  assisted  by  Lieut.  Parke,  was  intrusted  the  survey  of  a  route  from 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  to  the  junction  of  the  Gila  and  Colorado  rivers,  connecting  with  the 
ports  of  San  Pedro  arid  San  Diego  on  the  one  side,  and  on  the  other  with  the  most  practicable 
mountain  passes.  His  work  has  been  thoroughly  and  handsomely  executed,  presenting  much 
new  and  valuable  information  of  the  mountain  passes  on  the  southern  portion  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  and  Coast  range.  The  geological  examination,  made  under  his  orders,  is  highly 
creditable  and  instructive. 

The  examination  of  the  middle  section  of  the  route  of  the  32d  parallel,  by  Lieut.  Parke, 
was  very  thorough,  and  highly  creditable,  though  executed  with  small  means ;  and  his  report 
very  satisfactorily  exhibits  the  character  and  essential  features  of  the  country  over  which  he 
passed.  The  scientific  labors  of  the  boundary  survey,  which  had  been  previously  performed  in 


CONCLUSION.  29 

this  region,  rendered  it  unnecessary  to  do  more  than  make  what  may  he  strictly  called  a  railroad 
exploration. 

The  examination  of  the  eastern  portion  hy  Capt.  Pope,  assisted  "by  Lieut.  Garrard,  of  the 
dragoons,  was  made  under  the  most  disadvantageous  circumstances,  the  party  having  heen 
organized  at  a  remote  point,  where  neither  instruments,  nor  assistants  specially  instructed  in 
the  scientific  branches  connected  with  the  survey,  could  be  procured.  It  was,  however, 
creditably  performed,  and  satisfactorily  exhibits  the  topography  and  general  character  of  the 
country  along  the  line  surveyed. 

CONCLUSION. 

To  aid  in  a  comparison  of  the  several  routes,  reference  is  made  to  a  table  prepared  by  Capt. 
A.  A.  Humphreys,  and  hereto  appended. 

With  regard  to  the  estimates  of  cost,  although  believed  to  be  as  accurate  as  can  be  made 
tinder  present  circumstances,  they  are  to  be  considered  as  intended  not  so  much  to  show  the 
absolute  sums  of  money  which  would  build  the  several  roads,  as  to  represent  the  relative 
quantities  of  materials  and  labor  required  for  the  purpose.  If  now  tested  in  the  actual  con 
struction  of  any  one  of  the  roads,  they  will  doubtless  be  found  to  contain  many  errors;  but  as 
the  same  data  have  been  assumed  on  all  the  routes,  the  same  amount  of  error  will  probably 
be  found  in  each,  and  the  actual  expense  will  thus  preserve  the  same  proportion. 

With  regard  to  the  equated  lengths  of  the  several  roads,  or,  in  other  words,  the  influence 
of  ascents  and  descents  upon  the  expense  of  working,  it  is  proper  to  direct  attention  to  the 
remarks  of  the  engineer,  appended  to  the  tables,  in  which  he  states  that,  on  all  the  routes,  the 
amount  reported  will  be  subject  to  increase  when  the  minor  undulations  of  the  ground  shall  be 
measured  ;  and  this  increase  will  be  greatest  on  those  routes  and  in  those  portions  where  the 
features  of  the  country  are  less  regular — that  is,  where  there  are  most  of  such  minor  undula 
tions  to  be  measured.  The  equated  distances  also  affect  the  cost  of  working  a  road  only 
under  certain  circumstances,  which  may  or  may  not  exist  on  the  contemplated  route. 

A  comparison  of  the  results  stated  above,  and  of  those  exhibited  in  the  tables  referred  to, 
conclusively  shows  that  the  route  of  the  32d  parallel  is,  of  those  surveyed,  "the  most  prac 
ticable  and  economical  route  for  a  railroad  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Pacific  ocean." 

This  is  the  shortest  route ;  and  not  only  is  its  estimated  cost  less  by  a  third  than  that  of 
any  other  of  the  lines,  but  the  character  of  the  work  required  is  such  that  it  could  be  executed 
in  a  vastly  shorter  period.  It  is  obvious  that  a  road  on  any  of  these  routes,  with  the  exception 
perhaps  of  the  47th  parallel,  must  be  built  continuously  from  the  two  extremities,  and  an 
obstacle  that  arrests  its  progress  at  any  point  defers  the  commencement  of  all  the  work  in 
advance.  The  tunnels  and  much  of  the  other  work  on  the  more  northerly  routes  in  the  most 
desolate  regions  are  such  as  could  not  be  commenced  until  a  road  was  constructed  up  to  those 
points,  and  would  then  require  a  long  period  for  their  completion. 

On  the  southernmost  route,  on  the  contrary,  the  progress  of  the  work  will  be  regulated 
chiefly  by  the  speed  with  which  cross-ties  and  rails  can  be  delivered  and  laid,  the  nature  of  the 
country  being  such  that  throughout  the  whole  line  the  road-bed  can  easily  be  prepared  in 
advance  of  the  superstructure.  The  few  difficult  points,  such  as  the  Pass  of  the  Guadaltipe 
and  Hueco  mountains,  and  the  passes  between  the  Rio  Grande  and  Gila,  would  delay  the  work 
but  an  inconsiderable  period. 

This  peculiarity  of  the  ground  presents  another  advantage  in  the  fact  that  temporary  tracks 
could  be  laid  upon  the  natural  surface  of  the  earth  to  almost  any  extent,  to  serve  for  the  trans 
portation  ot  materials  and  supplies. 

The  climate  on  this  route  is  such  as  to  cause  less  interruption  to  the  work  than  on  any 
other  route. 

Not  only  is  this  the  shortest  and  least  costly  route  to  the  Pacific,  but  it  is  the  shortest 
and  cheapest  route  to  San  Francisco,  the  greatest  commercial  city  on  our  western  coast;  while 
the  aggregate  length  of  railroad  lines  connecting  it  at  its  eastern  terminus  with  the  Atlantic 


30  CONCLUSION. 

and  Gulf  seaports  is  less  than  the  aggregate  connexion  with  any  other  route,  as  will  be  seen 
by  reference  to  the  appended  table  B. 

With  regard  to  the  circumstances  which  affect  the  cost  of  working  and  maintaining  the 
road,  they  are  more  favorable  than  on  any  other  route.  In  this  dry  climate  the  decay  of 
cross-ties  and  other  timber  would  be  very  slow,  and  the  absence  of  severe  frost  would  have 
a  most  important  influence  upon  the  permanence  of  the  road-bed,  and  heavier  grades  could  be 
adopted  than  in  a  climate  where  ice  and  snow  prevail. 

The  snows  on  all  the  other  routes,  except  that  of  the  35th  parallel,  could  not  fail  at 
certain  seasons  to  suspend  the  working  of  the  road,  for  on  all,  such  snows  are  known  to  have 
fallen  as  would  interpose  an  effectual  barrier  to  the  passage  of  trains.  Such  an  occurrence  in 
this  desolate  region  would  be  attended  with  more  serious  consequences  than  in  inhabited  districts. 

In  only  one  important  respect  is  this  route  supposed  to  be  less  favorable  than  some  of  the 
others,  and  that  is,  in  the  supply  of  fuel.  The  difference,  however,  in  favor  of  the  others  is 
not  great,  unless  the  existence  of  coal  at  certain  points  along  those  routes  where  it  is  indicated 
should  be  verified  by  further  examination.  The  cost  of  fuel  is  about  one-fifth  of  the  whole 
expense  of  maintaining  and  working  a  railroad. 

The  grades  of  the  several  routes,  and  other  similar  information,  will  be  found  upon  the  sheets 
of  profiles  compiled  in  the  office. 

In  the  determination  of  the  explorations  proper  to  be  made — in  the  examination  of  the  reports 
of  the  suveying  parties,  the  preparation  of  the  profiles,  and  of  a  general  map  to  exhibit,  in 
their  geographical  relation  to  each,  all  the  routes  of  which  an  instrumental  examination  had 
been  made — I  am  greatly  indebted  to  the  assistance  which  has  been  rendered  by  the  officers  of 
the  corps  of  topographical  engineers  employed  in  the  office  established  here  in  connexion 
with  the  explorations  directed  by  the  act;  and  I  will  here  especially  acknowledge  my  obliga 
tions  to  Major  W.  H.  Emory,  whose  extensive  knowledge  of  the  western  regions  of  our  country, 
no  small  part  of  which  he  had  actually  explored,  and  whose  sound  judgment  in  all  things  con 
nected  with  topographical  reconnaissances  and  field  operations,  gave  me  important  aid  in  the  or 
ganization  of  the  work  and  the  subsequent  office  examinations  necessary  to  systematize  its  results. 

When,  in  August,  1854,  Major  Emory's  duties  as  commissioner  to  run  the  boundary- 
line  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States  separated  him  from  further  connexion  with  these 
explorations,  he  was  succeeded  by  Capt.  A.  A.  Humphreys,  whose  high  scientific  attainments 
and  power  of  exact  analysis  had  been  manifested  in  several  important  positions  which  lie 
had  held,  and  are  further  shown  in  the  able  and  comprehensive  examination,  herewith  sub 
mitted,  of  the  reports  of  the  several  parties  of  exploration. 

Lieut.  G.  K.  Warren,  first  under  Major  Emory,  and  subsequently  under  Captain  Humphreys, 
has  been  specially  intrusted  with  the  preparation  of  the  material  and  the  construction  of  the 
general  map,  together  with  the  compilation  of  profiles  of  all  the  routes  which  had  been  instru- 
mentally  surveyed,  and  the  collection  of  all  general  information  which  would  aid  in  the 
determination  of  the  question  before  the  department.  In  these  duties  he  has  recently  had  the 
zealous  and  efficient  aid  of  Lieut.  H.  L.  Abbott. 

These  laborious  and  important  duties  have  been  performed  by  the  officers  above  named 
with  the  most  commendable  diligence  and  intelligence,  and  much  of  whatever  success  belongs 
to  the  preparation  and  presentation  of  the  matter  collected  is  due  to  these  officers. 

Capt.  McClellan,  of  the  corps  of  enginers,  after  the  completion  of  his  field  operations,  was 
directed  to  visit  various  railroads,  and  to  collect  information  of  facts  established  in  the  con 
struction  and  working  of  existing  roads,  to  serve  as  data  in  determining  the  practicability  of 
constructing  and  working  roads  over  the  several  routes  explored.  The  results  of  his  inquiries 
will  be  found  in  a  very  valuable  memoir  herewith  submitted. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

JEFF'N  DAVIS,  Secretary  of  War. 
Hon.  LINN  Bo  YD,  f 

Speaker  of  the  House  of  Representatives. 


TABLE   OF   LENGTHS,  ETC. 
A. 


31 


Table  showing  the  lengths,  sums  of  ascents  and  descents,  equated  lengths,  cost,  &c.,  of  the  several 
routes  explored  for  a  railroad  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific.  (For  the  grades,  see  the 
profiles  accompanying  the  report.) 


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Miles. 

Miles  . 

Feet. 

Miles. 

Feet. 

Route  near  47th  and  49th 

1,445 

1,864 

18,100 

2,207*,ftl30.781.000 

374 

1,490 

||  1,000 

470 

580 

720 

130 

97 

28 

6,044 

Tunnel  at  He- 

parallels,  from  St.  Paul 

vat'n  of  5,219 

to  Vancouver. 

feet. 

Kxterision  thence  to  Seattle 

161 

1,000 

180 

*10,090,000 

161 

I'll 

Route  near  the  41st  and  42d 

1,410 

2,032 

29,  120 

2,583 

116,095,000 

632 

1,400 

||  1,100    180 

170 

210 

160 

580 

2J5 

no 

HI; 

20 

8,373 

parallels,  via  South  Pass 

from  Council    Bluffs    to 

Benicia. 

f  Route  near  the  38th  and 

1,740 

2,080 

49,986 

3,125 

Cost  so  great 

620 

1,460 

II  M00 

340 

276 

165 

348 

186 

no 

60 

L55 

H) 

•JO 

10,032 

Tunnel  at  e'e- 

39th  parallel-,  from  West- 

that  the  road 

vat'n  of  9,540 

port  to  San  Francisco  by 

is   impracti 

feet. 

the    Coo-che  to-pa    and 

cable. 

Tali  ee-chay-pah  Passes. 

The  same,  from  Westport 

1,740 

2,290 

53,514 

3,360 

do  

670 

1,620 

1,100 

275 

308 

190 

143 

785 

•284 

no 

1558020 

10,032 

Tunnel  at  ele- 

to  San  Francisco  by  the 

vat'n  of  9,540 

Coo-che-to-pa  and   Ma- 

feet. 

delin  Passes. 

Route  near  the  35th  paral 

1,360 

1,892 

48,812 

2,816  {  169,210,265 

416 

1,476 

2,300i  305 

347 

260 

185 

h;ii 

305 

335 

95 

7,472 

lel,  from   Fort  Smith  to 

San  Pedro. 

Branch  road  to  San  Fran 

406 

7,500 

506       1  9-  9-15-  000 

322 

84 

290 

10 

72 

35 

cisco,  from  the  Mohave 

river. 

Route  near  the  32d  paral 

1,400 

1,618 

32,  784 

2,  239       fi«-  970.  oon 

408 

1,210 

2,300 

485 

300 

100 

170 

503 

60 

5,717 

lel,  from  Fulton  to  San 

' 

Pedro. 

Extensionto  San  Francisco 

440 

10,  150 

632       25,100,000 

376 

70 

290 

50 

65 

35 

*  These  are  the  estimates  of  the  office,  those  of  Gov.  Stevens  having  been  brought  to  the  same  standard  of  increased  cost  as  the  other  routes, 
and  his  equipment  reduced  to  that  of  the  other  routes.  His  estimates  were  $117,121,000  and  §7,030,000. 

f  Supposing  the  route  to  be  a  straight  line,  with  uniform  descent  from  the  Uu-kuk-oo-ap  mountains  (near  Sevier  river)  to  the  entrance  of  the  Tah-ee- 
chay-pah  Pass,  the  most  favorable  supposition. 

tThis  estimate  for  the  route  near  the  35lh  parallel  is  thought  to  be  largely  in  excess. 

|| These  sums  do  not  include  the  areas  of  cultivable  soil  as  far  west  as  the  Cascade  and  Sierra  Nevada  mountains. 

The  sum  of  the  minor  undulations  (not  included  in  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  here  given)  will  probably  be  greater  for  the  route  of  the  47th 
parallel  than  for  the  other  routes  ;  that  for  the  route  near  the  32d  parallel  will  probably  be  the  least  of  all. 

With  the  amount  of  work  estimated  for  the  roads  in  this  report,  the  equated  lengths  corresponding  to  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  has  hut  little 
practical  value.  With  a  full  equipment  and  heavy  freight  business,  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  becomes  important.  A  comparison  of  the  degree 
of  curvature  of  the  routes  cannot  be  made. 


NOTE  TO  TABLE  A. 

The  sum  of  the  ascents  and  descents  given  for  the  various  routes,  does  not  take  into  con 
sideration  those  minor  undulations  which  sometimes  largely  increase  the  aggregate. 

I  think  it  probable  that  when  detailed  surveys  are  made,  it  will  be  found  that  this  sum  for 
the  route  near  the  4 fall  parallel  will  be  more  increased  than  those  for  the  other  routes,  and 
that  the  sum  for  the  route  near  the  32d  parallel  will  be  less  increased  than  the  others. 

The  equated  lengths  corresponding  to  these  sums,  may  give  erroneous  impressions.  If 
the  loads  to  be  habitually  carried  over  the  roads  are  within  the  power  of  the  engines  over 
the  greatest  grades  proposed,  then  the  sums  of  ascents  and  descents  really  have  little  meaning 
or  value.  The  wear  and  tear  of  rail  and  machinery,  and  consumption  of  fuel,  would  be  some 
what  greater  on  the  road  having  the  largest  sum ;  but  the  difference  would  not  be  worth  taking 
into  account,  unless  there  was  an  equality  in  all  other  respects  between  the  routes. 

If  there  are  some  grades  so  steep  as  to  require  the  division  of  the  loads  habitually  carried 
over  other  portions,  the  cost  of  the  extra  locomotives,  and  of  working  them  over  those  portions, 
will  show  the  extent  of  the  disadvantage  and  yearly  cost. 


32  TABLE  OF    DISTANCES,  ETC. 

So  far  as  any  estimate  has  been  made  by  me  of  the  amount  of  work  to  be  done  on  the  roads, 
these  sums  of  ascents  and  descents  have  little  practical  value,  since  those  portions  of  the  routes 
have  been  indicated  where  it  may  be  considered  advisable  to  use  steep  natural  slopes  with 
extra  engines,  to  expedite  the  completion  of  the  road,  and  save  expensive  road-bed  pre 
paration."  With  a  full  equipment  and  heavy  freight  business,  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents 

becomes  important. 

The  nature  of  the  surveys  does  not  admit  of  a  comparison  of  the  degree  of  curvature  on 

the  several  routes. 

B. 


Distances  of  the  eastern  termini  of  the  several  Pacific  railroad  routes  to  the  Mississippi  river, 
Boston   New  York,  Charleston,  and  New  Orleans,  ly  railroads  built,  building,  and  projected, 

as  measured  on  the  "Railroad  Maps." 

Miles. 

1.  St.  Paul  to  Boston 1,316 

to  New  York 1,190 

to  Charleston 1,193 

to  New  Orleans 1,198 


Aggregate 4,897 

2.  Council  Bluffs  to  Rock  Island,  (Miss,  river) 267 

to  Boston 1,374 

to  New  York 1,252 

to  Charleston 1,195 

to  New  Orleans : 1,075 

Aggregate 5,163 


3.  Westport,  mouth  of  Kansas,  (near  Fort  Leavenworth,)  to  St.  Louis,  (Miss,  river)...  245 

to  Boston 1,415 

to  New  York 1,220 

to  Charleston 1,045 

to  New  Orleans...  875 


Aggregate 4,800 


4.  Fort  Smith,  on  the  Arkansas,  to  Memphis,  (Miss,  river)  270 

to  Boston 1,540 

to  New  York 1,345 

to  Charleston 960 

to  New  Orleans..  655 


Aggregate 4,770 


6.  Fulton  to  Gaines,  (Miss,  river) 150 

to  Boston.., 1,530 

to  New  York 1,335 

to  Charleston 950 

to  New  Orleans 402 

Aggregate 4,367 


LIST   OF   DOCUMENTS.  33 

LIST  OF  DOCUMENTS  ACCOMPANYING  THE  REPORT  OF  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 

I. — Examination  "by  Captain  A.  A.  Humphreys,  Topographical  Engineers,  of  the  reports  of 

the  explorations  to  determine  the  most  practicable  and  economical  route  for  a  railroad 

from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Pacific  ocean. 
II. — Memoranda  by  Captain  George  B.  McClellan,  Corps  of  Engineers,  upon  some  practical 

points  connected  with  the  construction  and  working  of  railways. 

III. — Letter  of  Major  General  Jesup,  Quartermaster  General  U.  S.  A.,  upon  the  cost  of  trans 
porting  troops  and  supplies  to  California,  Oregon,  New  Mexico,  &c. 
IV. — Keport  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  upon  the  route  near  the  4Vth  parallel. 
V. — Reports  of  Lieutenant  E.  G.  Beckwith,  3d  Regiment  of  Artillery,  upon  the  routes  near 

the  41st  and  38th  parallels. 
VI. — Report  of  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Whipple,  Topographical  Engineers,  upon  the  route  near 

the  35th  parallel. 
VII. — Report  of  Captain  John  Pope,  Topographical  Engineers,  upon  that  portion  of  the  route 

near  the  32d  parallel  from  Preston  to  the  Rio  Grande. 
VIII. — Report  of  Lieutenant  John  G.   Parke,  Topographical  Engineers,  upon  that  portion 

of  the  route  near  the  32d  parallel  from  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  Gila 
IX. — Extract  from  the  report  of  Major  W.  H.  Emory,  Topographical  Engineers,  of  a  military 

reconnaissance  made  in  1846  and  1847. 
X. — Report  of  Lieutenant  R.  S.  Williamson,  Topographical  Engineers,  of  explorations  in 

California  in  connexion  with  the  routes  near  the  35th  and  32d  parallels. 


5a 


AN  EXAMINATION 


BY   DIRECTION    OF   THE 

HON.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS,  SECRETARY  OF  WAR, 

OF    THE 

REPORTS  OF  EXPLORATIONS  FOR  RAILROAD  ROUTES 


FROM 


THE  MISSISSIPPI  TO  THE  PACIFIC,  MADE  UNDEE  THE  ORDERS  OF  THE  WAR  DEPART 
MENT  IN  1853-'54,  AND  OF  THE  EXPLORATIONS  MADE  PREVIOUS  TO  THAT 
TIME,  WHICH  HAVE  A  BEARING  UPON  THE  SUBJECT: 


BY 


CAPT.  A.  A.  HUMPHREYS  &  LIEUT.  G.  K.  WARREN, 

CORPS  TOPOGRAPHICAL   ENGINEERS. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Page. 
Route  of  forty-seventh  and  forty  ninth  parallels,  from  surveys  under  Gov.  Stevens,  in  1853-4 39 

CHAPTER  II. 

Route  of  forty-first  and  forty-second  parallels,  from  surveys  of  Lieut.  E.   G.   Beckwith,  3d  artillery,   1852 — Brevet 

Capt.  J.  C.  Fremont,  topographical  engineers,  in  1842-3 — and  Capt.  Stansbury,  in  1849 56 

CHAPTER  III. 

Route  of  thirty-eighth  and  thirty-ninth  parallels,  from  surveys  under  Capt.   Gunnison,  topographical  engineers,  and 

Lieut  E.  G.  Beckwith,  3d  artillery,  in  1853.'. 71 

CHAPTER  IV. 
Route  of  thirty-fifth  parallel,  surveyed  by  Lieut.  Whipple,  topographical  engineers,  in  1853 74 

CHAPTER  V. 

Route  of  thirty-second  parallel,  surveyed  by  Capt.  J.  Pope,  topographical  engineers,  from  Preston  to  Dona  Ana, 
1853 — Lieut.  Parke,  topographical  engineers,  from  Dona  Ana  to  Piinas  Villages,  1853 — Major  Emory,  topo 
graphical  engineers,  from  Pimas  Villages  to  mouth  of  Gila,  1848 — Lieut.  Williamson,  topographical  engineers,  in 
California,  1853 79 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Notes  from  Dr.  Wislizenus's  report  on  the  Cimarron  route  from  Independence,  Missouri,  to  Santa  Fe,  and  from  the 
reports  of  Col.  Johnston,  topographical  engineers,  Lieut.  Smith,  topographical  engineers,  Capt.  S.  G.  French,  United 
States  artillery,  and  others,  of  the  route  from  San  Antonio  to  El  Paso ]09 


AN  EXAMINATION 

OF   THE 

REPORTS  AND  EXPLORATIONS  FOR  RAILROAD  ROUTES  FROM  THE  MISSISSIPPI  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 


WAR  DEPARTMENT, 
Office  of  Pacific  Eailroad  Surveys,  Washington,  February  5,  1855. 

SIR  :  In  accordance  with  your  instructions,  I  submit  the  following  result  of  the  examination 
of  the  reports  of  the  explorations,  made  under  the  orders  of  the  War  Department,  to 
determine  the  most  practicable  and  economical  route  for  a  railroad  from  the  Mississippi  to 
the  Pacific ;  as  well  as  of  the  explorations  and  surveys  previously  made  which  have  a  bearing 
upon  this  subject. 

It  has  been  found  impossible  to  complete  the  general  map  of  the  country  embracing  these 
and  former  explorations,  owing  to  the  great  amount  of  labor  required  in  its  preparation,  the 
unfinished  condition  of  the  original  maps  and  other  data  upon  which  it  is  to  be  founded;  and 
the  heavy  duties  imposed  upon  the  officer  having  it  in  charge. 

This  map  should  be  accompanied  by  a  report  giving  the  authorities  and  data  upon  which  it 
rests,  with  explanations  of  the  adjustment  of  discrepant  authorities ;  and  also  a  brief  memoir 
upon  the  physical  geography  of  the  regions  embraced  within  its  limits.  Such  a  memoir  neces 
sarily  formed  a  preliminary  to  a  report  upon  the  most  practicable  and  economical  route  for  a  rail 
road  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific ;  but  the  unfinished  condition  of  the  maps  and  material 
collected  in  the  departments  of  science  necessary  to  elucidate  the  subject,  and  the  insufficiency 
of  the  material,  when  prepared,  for  so  comprehensive  a  subject,  precluded  the  possibility  of 
its  being  undertaken  at  the  present  time,  more  especially  as  the  labors  of  all  in  the  office 
were  required  in  the  preparation  of  the  details  necessary  to  discuss  the  greater  or  less 
degree  of  practicability  and  economy  of  each  route  separately. 

The  report  herewith  submitted  partakes  more  of  the  character  of  memoranda  upon  the  differ 
ent  routes,  than  of  a  report  upon  the  whole  subject ;  and,  in  fact,  it  was  prepared  as  such, 
with  the  intention,  principally,  of  aiding  your  examination  of  the  reports  of  the  officers 
charged  with  the  explorations,  rather  than  as  a  general  report  upon  all  the  routes.  These 
memoranda  would  have  served  as  the  basis  of  a  general  report,  but  time  does  not  admit  of 
their  being  placed  in  that  shape,  and  they  are  consequently  submitted  in  their  present  condition, 
with  this  explanation  of  the  cause  of  their  deficiency  in  comprehensiveness  of  matter,  and  in 
arrangement. 

Upon  relieving  Major  Emory,  in  August  last,  from  the  charge  of  the  Pacific  Kailroad  office, 
I  found  that  the  preparation  of  the  material  for  the  general  map,  a  work  of  great  labor, 
and  the  superintendence  of  its  construction  and  drawing,  had  been  intrusted  to  Lieut.  G.  K. 
Warren,  topographical  engineers,  whose  zeal  and  ability  in  the  performance  of  this  and  the 
general  office  duty,  Major  Emory  acknowledged  in  warm  terms.  Lieut.  Warren  has  continued 
in  charge  of  the  office  duties,  which  include  the  critical  examination  of  the  reports,  maps, 
profiles,  and  all  original  data  submitted  by  the  exploring  parties  and  others,  and  reports  upon 


38  REPORT. 

the  result ;  the  preparation  of  the  general  map  and  its  engraving ;  the  compilation  of  profiles 
of  all  the  routes  recently  explored  and  previously  examined  barometrically ;  the  preparation 
of  all  the  maps,  profiles,  and  other  drawings  made  in  the  office,  comprising  the  duplication  of 
the  originals  received  from  the  exploring  parties;  the  preparation  of  reports  upon  those 
routes  and  portions  of  routes  and  lines  formerly  explored,  but  not  with  a  special  view  to  the 
railroad  question.  In  addition  to  this,  he  has  likewise  largely  aided  me  in  making  this 
report. 

This  laborious  service  has  been  executed  by  him  with  great  intelligence,  zeal,  and  energy. 
Lieut.  H.  L.  Abbot,  topographical  engineers,  was  assigned  to  duty  in  this  office  in  October 
last,  and  has  most  zealously  aided  Lieut.  Warren  in  the  compilation  of  the  office  profiles, 
and  assisted  me  in  investigations  connected  with  this  report. 

I  would  especially  call  your  attention  to  the  admirable  arrangement  of  the  profiles  which 
have  been  compiled  in  the  office,  by  Lieuts.  Warren  and  Abbot,  exhibiting  so  well  all  the  in 
formation  upon,  and  the  data  and  statistics  of  the  routes,  (as  for  as  it  is  possible  to  compress 
them  into  so  small  a  space,)  as  to  serve  the  purpose  of  a  brief  report. 

In  making  this  examination  I  have  had  the  advantage  of  frequent  personal  conferences  with 
the  chiefs  of  the  exploring  parties,  and  with  Dr.  John  Evans  and  W.  P.  Blake,  esq.,  geologists. 
I  have  also  availed  myself  of  the  information  contained  in  the  memoranda  upon  various 
practical  points  connected  with  the  construction  and  working  of  railroads;  prepared  in  the 
office  by  Bvt.  Capt.  George  B.  McClellan,  corps  of  engineers,  as  suggested  by  my  letter  to  the 
department  of  the  7th  October  last. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  A.  HUMPHREYS, 

Captain  Topographical  Engineers. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


CHAPTER  I. 

ROUTE  NEAR  THE  FORTY-SEVENTH  AND  FORTY-NINTH  PARALLELS  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE. 

Although  the  report  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  of  his  exploration  of  the  northern  route  is 
clearly  and  forcibly  written,  yet,  as  all  the  facts  bearing  upon  a  particular  portion  of  the  route 
are  not  always  to  be  found  in  one  place,  I  have  thought  that  it  would  facilitate  the  review  to 
recapitulate  the  leading  characteristics  of  the  railroad  route  proposed,  with  such  additional 
investigations  and  opinions  as  appeared  to  be  necessary.  The  great  extent  of  ground  examined, 
the  number  of  subjects  treated,  and  the  voluminous  character  of  the  report,  seemed  to  require 
this  somewhat  laborious  process. 

The  general  direction  and  position  of  the  extreme  northern  route  is  mainly  determined  by 
the  following  considerations : 

1.  From  the  great  northern  bend  of  the  Missouri,   (lat.  48°  30',  about,)  near  the  mouth  of 
White-earth  river,  to  Council  Bluffs,  (lat.  43°  30',)  the  river  flows  in  a  general  southeast  direc 
tion.     Throughout  this  portion  of  its  course  the  country  on  either  side  is  generally  rough  and 
broken;  to  the  east  lies  the  Coteau  du  Missouri,  a  high,  rolling  prairie,  and  to  the  west  a  rough 
and  rugged  country  (including  the  "  Mauvaises  Terres,"   and  excepting  the  smooth  table-land 
divide  between  the  Yellow  Stone  and  Missouri)  extends  to  the  base  of  the  mountains.     To  the 
east  and  north,  the  Coteau  du  Missouri  sinks  into  the  prairie,  and  near  the  parallel  of  49° 
can  be  completely  turned.     The  northern  route  should,  therefore,  seek  the  shortest  practicable 
line  between  this  point  and  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Mississippi.     St.  Paul,  at  the  head  of 
navigation  of  the  Mississippi,  appears  the  most  suitable  eastern  terminus  of  the  road.     The 
manner  in  which  these  two  points  are  connected  will  be  discussed  hereafter. 

2.  After  passing  the  Coteau  du  Missouri,  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  and  its  tributaries,  in 
direction  and  acclivity,  furnish  the  best  approach  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  the  passes  of  which, 
near  the  sources  of  the  Missouri,  in   latitude  47°,  have   an   elevation   of  about  6,000  feet, 
being   nearly  1,500  feet  lower  than  the  Great  South  Pass. 

3.  The  Rocky  mountains  once  crossed,  the  route  to  the  Pacific  is  then  determined  by  the 
course  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Columbia. 

Finally,  the  navigable  character  of  the  Missouri,  of  the  Columbia,  and  of  the  great  lakes, 
as  well  as  the  Mississippi — all  of  which  can  be  made  to  aid  in  the  construction  of  this  road — 
gives  to  it,  at  first  glance,  a  character  of  great  importance.  Its  objectionable  features  are  also 
apparent  in  its  high  northern  latitude,  and  consequent  severity  of  climate,  which  greatly 
detracts  from  the  importance  of  the  aid  from  navigation  by  obstructing  the  rivers  with  ice, 
and  in  the  long  intervals  through  which  labor  in  the  open  air  must  be  suspended,  and,  finally, 
in  its  contiguity  to  the  soil  of  a  powerful  foreign  sovereignty. 

The  northern  railroad  route  may  be  said  to  commence  at  St.  Paul,  in  about  latitude  45°, 
at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  of  the  Mississippi.  The  road  ascends  the  left  bank  of  the 
Mississippi,  passing  over  fertile  prairies  or  oak  uplands  to  Little  Falls,  the  best  point  for  crossing 
the  river,  a  distance  of  109  miles,  without  rock-cutting,  and  with  light  grades,  seldom  exceed 
ing  ten  feet  per  mile.  For  structures,  both  of  wood  and  stone,  the  material  is  good,  and  near 
at  hand. 

Crossing  the  Mississippi  river  with  325  feet  of  bridge,  the  line  is  directed  to  the  prairie  of 
the  Bois  des  Sioux,  an  extensive  flat  plain.  Between  this  and  the  Mississippi  is  a  high,  rolling 
prairie,  forming  part  of  the  divide  between  the  waters  of  Hudson's  bay  and  those  of  the  Mis- 


40  ROUTE   NEAR   THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND    FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS. 

sissippi.  The  road  passes  successively  through  a  wooded  and  fertile  prairie  country,  and  crosses 
the  tributaries  of  the  Minnesota  river  at  their  sources.  From  the  Mississippi  to  the  Bois  des 
Sioux  the  distance  is  110  miles  ;  the  rise  is  about  750  feet;  the  grades  generally  ten  feet  per 
mile,  though  occasionally  thirty  feet.  Lumber  and  stone  are  to  be  supplied  from  the  Mississippi 
and  west  of  it ;  the  excavation  and  embankments  are  light, 

The  line  passes  for  40  miles  over  the  almost  absolute  plain  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  leaving 
its  western  edge  near  and  north  of  Dead  Colt  Hillock,  here  entering  the  rolling  prairie,  keep 
ing  south  of  the  Shayenne  river,  whose  valley  is  150  to  200  feet  below  the  general  level  of 
the  prairie,  and  along  the  dividing  ridge  between  it  and  the  Kiviere  a  Jacques ;  then  crossing 
the  latter  river  at  a  width  of  120  feet,  it  is  directed  towards  the  valley  of  Mouse  river,  bounded 
on  the  south  by  the  high  plateau  of  the  Coteau  du  Missouri.  Keeping  along  the  base  of  the 
coteau,  to  avoid  the  deep  coulees  of  Mouse  river,*  and  its  tributary,  Kiviere  des  Lacs,  the  coteau 
is  turned,  near  the  head  of  the  latter  river,  by  the  Grande  Coulee,  and  with  a  grade  not  exceed 
ing  40  feet  per  mile,  the  line  passes  to  the  bottom  lands  of  the  Missouri,  near  the  mouth  of 
Big  Muddy  river,  about  30  miles  west  of  Fort  Union.  Steamboats  of  two-feet  draught  can 
at  all  times,  when  not  obstructed  by  ice,  ascend  the  Missouri  to  Fort  Union,  the  trip  up  from 
St.  Louis  occupying  42  days,  and  back  17  days.  The  total  rise  in  this  distance  (about  400 
miles)  from  the  prairie  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux  to  the  Missouri  is  700  feet.  From  Dead  Colt 
Hillock  to  the  valley  of  Mouse  river,  200  miles,  the  country  is  in  part  undulating,  rising 
gradually. 

The  earth-work  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Missouri  will  be  neither  heavy  nor  expensive,  and 
no  rock  excavation,  except  in  crossing  the  "divide  into  the  valley  of  the  Missouri.  Tho 
grades  need  not  exceed  30  feet  per  mile,  and  will  rarely  be  so  great." 

For  400  miles  of  this  portion  of  the  route,  wood  for  building  and  fuel  (if  wood  be  used  for 
it)  must  be  obtained  from  the  Eed  Eiver  of  the  North,  and  from  the  bottom  lands  of  Mouse 
river.  But  little  stone  for  masonry  is  needed.  Excellent  sandstone  can  be  obtained  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Butte  de  Maison  du  Chien,  near  which  the  line  enters  the  valley  of  Mouse  river. 
Materials  for  good  bricks  are  to  be  obtained  on  Red,  Bois  des  Sioux,  Shayenne,  and  Mouse 
rivers.  From  Camp  Guthrie,  on  the  Shayenne,  to  the  Mouse  Eiver  valley,  (about  150  miles,) 
nearly  one-half  the  small  ponds  and  lakes  are  brackish  and  salt.  The  fresh-water  ponds  are, 
however,  constantly  interspersed  and  more  abundant,  and  "  occur  quite  as  often  as  is  desirable 
either  for  travelling  or  railroad  purposes.  With  this  abundant  supply,  no  unusual  construc 
tion  or  expense  will  be  required  in  establishing  watering  places." — Governor  Stevens' s  report. 

Mr.  Lander,  the  estimating  engineer,  says,  "the  portion  extending  through  the  salt-water 
region — the  one  under  consideration — will  need  particular  attention  regarding  a  supply  of 
pure  water  for  the  use  of  engines.  The  proper  mode  of  overcoming  this  difficulty  will  be  by 
extending  an  aqueduct  along  the  line  of  the  road  from  the  lakes  upon  the  Grand  Coteau 
du  Missouri."  An  estimate  for  this  purpose  is  made,  and,  including  the  cost  of  planting 
640  acres  of  trees  every  20  miles  over  —  miles  of  the  route,  amounts  to  $2,000,000. 

Should  supplies  of  water  be  needed  at  points  where  it  could  not  be  furnished  by  the  usual 
means,  because  of  the  small  quantity  of  rain  that  falls,  artesian  wells  might  prove  more 
economical,  if  the  geological  formations  indicate  their  feasibility. 

The  position  of  the  northern  part  of  the  Grande  Coulee,  by  which  the  route  leaves  the 
valley  of  Eiviere  des  Lacs  and  enters  that  of  the  Missouri,  has  been  determined  from  an 
estimated  distance  of  twenty  miles  from  the  odometer  line.  As  represented  upon  the  map, 
it  approaches  so  close  to  the  49th  parallel  (about  two  miles  from  it)  that,  without  more 
accurate  determination,  it  cannot  be  known  whether  the  route,  as  here  projected,  may  not  pass 
over  British  territory. 

*  Mouse  river,  next  to  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  is  the  most  important  river  on  the  route  between  the  Mississippi  and 
Missouri.  It  flows  in  a  deep,  wide  valley  200  feet  below  the  prairie-level,  with  a  wooded  bottom  from  one-half  to  two  miles 
wide,  its  high  and  steep  banks  being  cut  by  deep  coulees  extending  ten  and  fifteen  miles  into  the  prairie. 


ROUTE   NEAR   THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND   FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  41 

After  reaching  the  Missouri,  the  line  follows  the  valley  of  this  stream  to  the  mouth  of  Milk 
river,  120  miles  from  Fort  Union,  then  ascends  the  valley  of  Milk  river,  187  miles,  the  grades 
rarely  exceeding  the  river-slopes,  (the  Missouri  being  one  foot  per  mile,  the  Milk  three  feet 
per  mile,)  with  an  average  embankment  of  eight  feet,  and  with  but  little  rock  excavation, 
and  that  in  soft  sandstone.  The  river  bottoms,  composed  of  clay  and  sand,  are  soft  and 
sloppy  in  wet  weather,  and  parched  and  cracked  during  the  dry  season.  As  the  Rocky  mount 
ains  are  approached,  the  country  bordering  the  Missouri  river  is  rough  and  broken ;  nearer  the 
mountains,  prairies  afford  more  favorable  ground  for  location. 

Having  turned  the  Bear's  Paw  mountains,  lying  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri  rivers,  the 
line  leaves*  the  valley  of  Milk  river  and  rises  to  the  prairie,  with  a  grade  of  thirty-five  feet  per 
mile,  taking  a  southwest  direction  towards  the  passes  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  which  lie  near 
the  47th  parallel  of  latitude,  crossing  in  its  course  the  Maria's  and  Teton  rivers  with  grades  of 
forty  feet  per  mile,  and  the  Sun  river  without  difficulty,  the  whole  distance  being  about  440 
miles. 

The  cotton-wood  of  the  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers  not  being  suitable  for  building  material, 
except  for  a  temporary  road,  by  which  to  build  the  permanent  one,  this  portion  of  the  route  is 
dependent  upon  the  pine  of  the  Trois  Buttes  mountain,  (sleepers  for  300  miles  single  track  from 
this  source.)  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  of  the  mountains  south  of  Fort  Benton.  Good 
sandstone  is  to  be  found  near  Fort  Union,  at  the  crossing  of  Milk  river,  and  at  the  Trois 
Buttes ;  lime  near  Fort  Union,  the  Trois  Buttes,  and  the  Rocky  mountains ;  clay,  for  brick, 
on  the  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers  ;  and  sand  in  the  beds  of  the  rivers,  though  not  abundant,  in 
a  clean  state. 

If  cotton-wood  cannot  be  used  as  fuel,  we  have  on  this  route  spaces  of  100,  200,  and  400,  or 
500  miles  between  the  points  of  supply;  that  is,  200  miles  from  the  Red  river  supply  to  that  of 
the  Mouse  river;  400  miles  from  the  Mouse  river  supply  to  that  of  the  Bear's  Paw,  or  500  to 
that  of  the  Trois  Buttes ;  and  from  the  Trois  Buttes  to  the  Rocky  mountain  supply,  not  less 
than  100  miles.  The  supplies  of  lumber  are  the  same  as  for  fuel. 

At  what  distances  apart  large  supplies  of  water  can  be  had  from  the  Red  River  of  the  North 
to  Maria's  river  is  not  stated.  The  rivers  along  which  the  road  runs  cannot  always  be  relied 
upon  for  it,  since  the  road  is  immediately  under  the  bluffs  of  the  valley,  and  the  small  streams 
are  dry  in  summer,  and  so  of  the  ponds  on  the  prairies ;  both  in  extreme  dry  and  hot  seasons, 
and  in  the  winter,  there  would  be  deficiencies.  The  high  plateaux  making  back  from  these 
rivers,  it  is  thought,  will  afford  the  means  of  securing,  by  reservoirs,  ample  supplies.  The 
precise  data  upon  which  this  opinion  is  formed  are  not  given ;  the  number,  capacity,  and  posi 
tion  of  the  ponds  or  small  lakes  proposed  to  be  used  are  not  stated,  nor  the  distances  at  which 
the  reservoirs  can  be  made. 

Between  the  Maria's  and  Sun  rivers,  Grizzly  Bear  lake  is  indicated  as  a  point  of  supply. 
From  the  Bois  des  Sioux  to  Riviere  a  Jacques  is  about  120  miles.  From  Riviere  a  Jacques 
to  Butte  de  Maison,  where  probably  the  ponds  of  the  Coteau  du  Missouri  could  give  a  large 
supply  of  water,  is  115  miles.  Thence  to  head  of  Riviere  des  Lacs,  120  miles.  Thence  to 
mouth  of  Big  Muddy,  on  the  Missouri,  120,  &c.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  supplies  of 
water  at  these  distances  can  be  got  during  all  seasons,  which  may  be  made  to  answer  for  rail 
road  purposes,  though  not  sufficient  for  working  parties. 

The  line  has  now  reached  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  an  elevation,  where  it  may 
enter  the  passes  through  them,  of  4,700  feet  above  the  sea. 

In  deciding  upon  the  route  by  which  the  road  should  cross  this  mountain  chain,  regard 
must  be  had,  not  only  to  the  difficulties  of  approach  to  the  passes  and  the  difficulties  in  the 
passes,  but  also  to  the  best  pass  (from  every  consideration)  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains. 

This  last  is  a  secondary  mountain  chain  lying  west  of  the  principal,  separating  from  it  in 
about  latitude  45°  30',  and  running  northward  and  westward  into  the  British  possessions. 
Flowing  in  the  valley,  between  these  two  chains,  are  the  Flathead  and  St.  Mary's  or  Bitter 


42  ROUTE    NEAR    THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND    FORTY-NINTH   PARALLELS. 

Root  rivers:  the  former  rising  in  about  latitude  48°  30',  and  running  south,  and  the  latter 
rising  in  about  latitude  45°  30',  and  running  north.  As  these  two  streams  approach  each 
other  a  spur  from  the  Rocky  mountains  turns  them  towards  the  west.  Their  junction  forms 
Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  a  clear,  rapid  river,  from  150  to  200  yards  wide,  rarely  fordable, 
which  has  forced  a  passage  through  the  Bitter  Root  mountains ;  this  pass  Was  adopted  for  the 

railroad  route. 

Seven  passes  in  the  Rocky  mountains  were  examined  ;  they  lie  between  latitude  48°  30'  and 

latitude  45°  30'. 

Beginning  at  the  north,  in  about  latitude  48°  30',  is  the  Maria's  Pass,  leading  from  the 
Maria's  river  to  the  Flathead  river.  It  is  not  desirable  in  direction,  unless  a  route  leading 
westward  be  found  north  of  Clark's  fork.  The  tunnel,  at  its  summit,  would  be  at  an  elevation 
of  8,000  or  8,500  feet;  about  the  limit  of  perpetual  snow  in  that  latitude.  On  the  west,  the 
fall  in  seventeen  miles  would  be  2,1*70  feet.  The  great  severity  of  the  climate  would  of  itself 
render  this  pass  almost  impracticable.  About  the  20th  of  October,  Mr.  Tinkham  found  the 
snow-banks  of  the  previous  winter  still  lying  upon  the  shaded  borders  of  the  small  lakes  or 
ponds  on  the  eastern  slopes  at  an  elevation  of  about  5,600  feet.  The  instruments  used  by  Mr. 
Tinkham  were  a  barometer  and  pocket-compass. 

The  next  pass  is  that  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  connecting  the  head- waters  of  Dearborn  and  Black- 
foot  rivers — the  former  a  tributary  of  the  Missouri,  the  latter  of  the  St.  Mary's.  The  summit 
ridge  has  an  elevation  of  6,323  feet,  which  must  be  pierced  by  a  tunnel  two  and  a  half  miles 
long,  through  rock,  at  an  elevation  of  5,300  feet ;  grades  of  approach  from  the  east  forty  feet 
to  the  mile,  and  of  descent  to  the  valley  of  Blackfoot  river,  "it  is  believed,"  will  not  exceed 
fifty  feet  per  mile. 

The  examination  of  this  pass  was  made  by  Mr.  Lander  ;  his  instruments  were  a  barometer 
and  pocket-compass.  He  abandoned  the  examination  (the  reasons  for  it  are  not,  to  my  appre 
hension,  contained  in  the  extracts  from  his  report)  seven  and  a  half  miles  west  of  the  summit, 
and  four  and  a  half  miles  before  reaching  the  route  of  the  main  party  that  entered  the  valley 
of  Blackfoot  river  by  Cadotte's  Pass.  The  connexion  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass  with  the 
valley  of  the  Blackfoot  river  has  not,  then,  been  made,  though  "  believed  practicable  at  grades 
not  exceeding  fifty  feet  per  mile."  This  pass  should  be  gone  over  instrumentally  before  its 
practicability  can  be  considered  demonstrated.  It  has  been  adopted  in  the  railroad  estimate, 
and  is  probably  practicable. 

The  next  pass  is  Cadotte's,  connecting  a  tributary  of  Dearborn  river  with  a  tributary  of  the 
Blackfoot  river.  The  approach  to  this  pass  is  practicable,  though  difficult,  owing  to  the 
numerous  deep  ravines  of  the  tributaries  of  Beaver  creek,  a  northern  branch  of  Dearborn  river, 
over  which  the  road  must  cross  in  approaching  the  pass  from  Sun  river.  The  summit  of  the 
pass  has  an  elevation  of  6,044  feet;  will  require  a  tunnel  4^  miles  long  (fifty  per  cent,  of  cutting 
in  clay  slate,)  at  an  elevation  of  5,000  feet,  with  grades  of  sixty  feet  approaching  from  the 
east,  and  forty  fcet  per  mile  from  the  west.  The  pass  itself  is  difficult. 

The  main  train  of  the  exploring  party  passed  over  this  route,  the  instruments  used  being 
a  barometer,  odometer,  and  Schmalkalder  compass.  It  follows  the  valley  of  Blackfoot  river, 
generally  narrow  and  woodvwl,  to  its  junction  with  the  Hell-Gate,  a  distance  from  the  summit 
of  ninety-three  miles.  For  twenty  miles  before  this  junction  there  is  a  narrow  gorge  ending  in 
Hell-Gate.  From  the  narrowness  of  the  valley  and  winding  of  the  stream,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  cross  frequently  from  side  to  side,  and  the  bridging  will  be  expensive  from  the  absence  of 
stone  suitable  for  building  material,  the  nearest  point  of  supply  known  being  in  Flathead  River 
valley,  seventy  miles  distant  from  Hell-Gate.  The  grades  will  vary  from  thirty-five  to  forty- 
five  feet  per  mile. 

The  Blackfoot  river  joins  the  Hell-Gate  river  just  before  the  latter  makes  the  passage  of  the 
gorge  from  which  it  derives  its  name,  the  Hell-Gate  river  itself  being  a  tributary  of  the  St. 
Mary's.  At  the  head  of  the  Little  Blackfoot  (another  tributary  of  the  Hell-Gate,  coming  from 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND    FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  43 

the  east,)  two  passes  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  in  latitude  46°  30',  were  explored.  They  are 
sometimes  called  the  Northern  and  Southern  Little  Blackfoot  Passes,  but  named  in  Governor 
Stevens's  map  as  the  Hell-Gate  Passes.  They  connect  between  the  waters  of  the  Little  Black- 
foot  and  Prickly-Pear  creeks. 

South  of  these,  in  latitude  45°  45',  another  pass  was  examined,  called  the  Hell-Gate  Pass. 
It  connects  the  south  fork  of  Hell-Gate  with  a  branch  of  Wisdom  river.  And  still  further 
south,  in  latitude  45°  38',  another  pass,  called  the  Big  Hole  Mountain  or  St.  Mary's  Pass,  was 
explored,  connecting  the  waters  of  St.  Mary's  river  with  a  fork  of  Wisdom  river.  These  last 
four  passes  are  all  reported  as  probably  practicable;  but  as  the  southern  Little  Blackfoot,  Hell- 
Gate,  and  St.  Mary's  Passes  received  no  instrumental  examination,  as  the  last-named  is  out  of 
direction,  and  the  two  former  involve  a  considerable  detour  from  the  route  of  the  Missouri,  are 
approached  with  difficulty,  and  will  only  become  important  should  a  good  route  or  routes  be 
found  through  the  Black  Hills  to  the  Mississippi,  it  is  unnecessary  to  note  them  further.  The 
profiles  of  the  northern  Little  Blackfoot  with  its  approaches  from  the  Missouri,  of  the  valleys  of 
the  Little  Blackfoot  and  of  part  of  the  Hell-Gate  river,  were  determined  by  Mr.  Tinkham,  his 
instruments  consisting  of  a  barometer  and  pocket-compass. 

The  approach  by  this  route  is  over  a  broken  region  of  country,  and  a  better  approach,  it  is 
thought,  will  be  found  north  of  the  Missouri,  nearer  the  base  of  the  mountains,  along  the  line 
examined  by  Lieutenant  Mullan.  The  elevation  of  the  summit  is  6,250  feet;  a  tunnel  of  two 
miles  will  be  required.  The  eastern  approach  is  estimated  practicable  with  grades  of  fifty  or 
sixty  feet  per  mile,  and  the  western  descent  with  a  grade  of  thirty  feet  to  the  mile.  A  thorough 
examination  of  this  route  is  recommended  in  connexion  with  the  other  passes  in  this  vicinity. 
It  is  unnecessary,  therefore,  to  consider  it  further,  since  the  data  are  still  too  imperfect  to 
enable  us  to  form  certain  conclusions. 

Three  passes  through  the  Bitter  Root  mountains  were  explored ;  a  fourth  was  subsequently 
examined,,  but  has  not  yet  been  reported  upon ;  a  fifth  pass,  the  northern  Nez  Perces,  it  was 
not  considered  necessary  to  examine. 

The  passes  reported  upon  are  that  of  Clark's  fork,  which  has  been  adopted  as  being  the 
least  difficult;  the  Cceur  d'Alene  Pass,  by  the  Coeur  d'Alene  Mission,  and  the  southern  Nez 
Perces  trail.  Beginning  at  the  south,  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail,  leading  from  the  head  of 
St.  Mary's  river  to  the  head  of  a  tributary  of  the  Snake  river,,  (the  southern  fork  of  the  Columbia) 
was  examined  by  Mr.  Tinkham,  in  the  latter  part  of  November  and  first  half  of  December; 
his  instruments  were  a  barometer  and  pocket-compass  until  the  former  was  cached.  From  the 
great  height  of  the  summit,  8,000  feet,  and  the  great  depth  of  snow  so  early  in  the  season, 
it  is  not  necessary  to  consider  this  pass.  It  is  probably  impracticable. 

The  northern  Nez  Perces  trail  is  reported  to  be  of  the  same  character. 

The  Coeur  d'Alene  Pass,  leading  from  the  Bitter  Root  near  its  junction  with  the  Flathead 
to  the  Spokane  river,  if  found  to  be  practicable,  would  give  a  route  to  Wallah- Wallah  seventy 
miles  shorter  than  that  by  Clark's  fork;  but  as  no  instruments  for  measuring  vertical  or  hori 
zontal  distances  were  carried  with  the  party  that  examined  this  route,  its  practicability  cannot 
be  considered  established,  but  merely  such  information  gained  as  serves  to  show  that  it  is 
probably  practicable,  and  that  an  instrumental  profile  should  be  taken. 

The  pass  of  Clark's  fork  formed  by  the  passage  of  the  river  through  the  Bitter  Root  mount 
ains,  along  which  the  main  party  travelled,  is  practicable. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  passes  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  Cadotte,  give  the  most  direct  route 
from  the  line  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  this  pass. 

We  will  now  return  to  the  line  of  the  main  party  at  Hell-Gate,  the  termination  of  the  Black- 
foot  valley.  From  this  point  two  lines  were  examined  to  Clark's  fork.  One  follows  the  valley 
of  the  Bitter  Root  to  Clark's  fork  ;  the  other  crosses  a  dividing  ridge  to  the  valley  of  Jocko 
river,  keeping  along  this  stream  to  its  junction  with  the  Flathead,  which  it  then  follows  to 
Clark's  fork. 


44          ROUTE  NEAR  THE  FORTY-SEVENTH  AND  FORTY  NINTH  PARALLELS. 

Of  the  first,  Governor  Stevens  says :  "The  route  will  be  long,  in  consequence  of  the  curves 
of  the  river,  and  will  involve  curves  of  the  minimum  radius,  numerous  bridge-crossings,  con 
siderable  side-cutting,  and  high  embankments  on  the  prairie  portions,  in  consequence  of  the 
spring  freshets  (twenty  to  thirty  feet  vertical  rise.)  The  rock,  in  side-cuttings,  can  be  easily 
quarried.  The  greater  portion  of  this  route  has  been  personally  examined  by  me,  and  I  am 
satisfied  of  its  practicability,  though  at  great  expense." 

Mr.  Lander,  in  whose  judgment  and  experience  Governor  Stevens  placed  great  confidence, 
says  of  this  portion  of  the  route  :  "  The  descent  of  the  Bitter  Root  is  very  severe.  The  general 
grade  of  the  river- valley  for  that  distance  is  not  great  (11  Jg  feet  per  mile,)  but  the  changes 
in  level  are  abrupt,  the  valley  extremely  narrow  and  crooked;  sharp  curvature  and  steep 
gradients  will  be  needed  under  any  system  of  location,  and,  by  the  best  mode  of  conquering 
these  difficulties,  the  line  will  be  extreme  in  cost  and  nearly  impracticable." 

The  only  instrument  used  on  this  examination  was  a  pocket-compass.  Governor  Stevens's 
party  left  the  Bitter  Root  at  the  debouche  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  Pass,  and  Mr.  Lander  at  a 
point  several  miles  before  reaching  Clark's  fork.  The  topographer  of  the  expedition,  Mr. 
Lambert,  describes  this  unexamined  portion  of  the  Bitter  Root  as  a  canon,  but  in  conversation 
I  find  that  his  description  was  inferred  from  partial  information,  and  was  not  intended  to 
mean  that  the  mountain-sides  closing  in  upon  the  river  were  vertical  walls.  Dr.  Suckley 
makes  no  special  mention  of  it.  In  respect  to  this  portion  of  the  route,  he  says:  "  The  numer 
ous  very  short  curves,  obliging  frequent  crossings  by  strong  bridges,  the  great  length  of  the 
route  if  the  river  is  followed,  the  steep  banks,  and  the  high-raised  work  necessary  to  prevent 
the  encroachments  of  the  freshets,  (which  in  many  places  rise  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  above 
the  common  level,)  will  all  render  this  part  of  the  road  exceedingly  expensive."  In  view  of 
the  difficulties  to  be  encountered  on  this  line,  and  of  the  nature  of  the  reconnaissance  of  it,  it 
should  not  be  considered  practicable  until  more  exact  data  are  obtained  upon  which  to  form  a 
correct  opinion. 

By  the  second  line  to  Clark's  fork:  To  overcome  the  summit  of  the  Jocko  divide,  852  feet 
above  Hell-Gate,  the  approach  will  require  a  grade  of  sixty  feet,  and  the  descent  to  the  valley 
of  the  Jocko  a  grade  of  sixty  feet,  both  for  short  distances,  with  heavy  embankments,  and  prob 
ably  a  lofty  bridge.  Lieutenant  Donelson  is  of  opinion  that  these  grades  may  be  reduced  to 
forty-five  and  forty  feet.  Along  the  valley  of  the  Jocko  and  Flathead  rivers,  on  their  left 
banks  to  Clark's  fork,  the  grade  will  be  twenty  feet  per  mile.  Ten  or  twelve  miles  before 
reaching  Clark's  fork,  the  mountains  close  in  upon  the  river  with  steep'slopes  and  rough  pro 
jecting  rocks.  The  heavy  growth  of  timber  obliged  the  party  to  leave  the  river,  returning  to 
it  again  at  Horse  Plain  on  Clark's  fork,  a  few  miles  below  the  junction  of  the  Bitter  Root  and 
Flathead.  This  portion  of  the  Flathead,  like  that  of  the  Bitter  Root,  is  described  by  Mr. 
Lambert  as  a  canon.  The  distance  to  Horse  Plain  from  Hell-Gate  by  the  Jocko  is  70  miles, 
by  the  Bitter  Root  95  miles. 

A  better  connection  with  the  Flathead  can  probably  be  made  by  leaving  the  Blackfoot 
valley  above  the  defile  ;  further  examination  is  necessary  to  establish  this,  however. 

Lieutenant  Donelson  says  the  average  fall  of  Clark's  fork  is  eleven  feet  per  mile,  and  lie 
estimates  that  the  railroad  could  descend  with  gradients  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  per 
mile.  With  the  exception  of  occasional  small  prairies,  marked  on  the  map,  its  valley 
throughout  is  heavily  timbered,  mainly  with  pine.  At  several  points  on  the  route  the  rocky 
hill-sides  crowd  upon  the  river,  arid  all  deep-cutting  will  probably  expose  the  rock,  appa 
rently,  in  general,  a  species  of  limestone  or  trap. 

The  line  crosses  the  Flathead  some  miles  above  its  junction  with  Clark's  fork,  (or  Bitter 
Root?)  continues  on  the  right  bank  as  far  as  Big  Rock  ;  then  crosses  Clark's  fork,  following 
the  left  bank,  and  recrosses  at  the  Cabinet  mountain.  Tunnelling  the  Cabinet  mountain  300 
yards  through  50  per  cent,  basaltic  rock,  it  would  continue  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  to 


ROUTE    NEAR   THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND   FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  45 

Lake  Pend.  d'Oreille,  and  on  the  western  side  of  the  lake  to  its  lower  extremity.     The  river 
and  lake  are  subject  to  freshets  fifteen  feet  in  height. 

The  summit  separating  Clark's  fork  and  Spokane  river  is  about  800  feet  above  the  level  at 
which  these  two  rivers  are  crossed.  The  transit  could  be  made,  Lieutenant  Donelson  reports, 
with  gradients  not  exceeding  twenty-five  feet  per  mile,  though  Governor  Stevens  says  forty  feet. 
The  mountain  region  ends  near  the  crossing  of  Spokane  river.  Mr.  Lander,  in  continuation, 
after  reporting  upon  the  Bitter  Root,  says:  "From  the  junction. of  the  Bitter  Root  with 
Clark's  fork  to  the  crossing  of  Clark's  fork,  below  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille,  the  line  assumes  a 
more  favorable  character ;  and,  although  still  severe,  may  be  readily  adjusted  to  reasonable 
rate  of  curvature  and  grade.  The  crossing  of  the  summit  section,  between  Lake  Pend  d'Oreillo 
and  the  valley  of  the  Spokane,  is  very  favorable,  and  can  be  made  upon  gradients  of  forty 
feet  per  mile.  All  great  difficulties  of  location  upon  the  route  cease  at  the  valley  of  the  Spo 
kane." 

Regarding  the  subject  of  construction  west  of  the  Rocky  mountain  summit,  the  line  passes, 
in  nearly  its  whole  extent,  through  forests  which  could  furnish  an  abundance  of  pine  and  cedar 
of  fine  quality,  and  of  fir  and  larch.  The  rafting  of  lumber  cannot  be  carried  on  above  Horse 
Plain,  though  it  is  probable  that  logs  can  be  run  in  the  freshets  from  the  heads  of  the  tribu 
taries  of  Clark's  fork.  Lieutenant  Donelson  saw  no  good  stone  for  building  over  this  space. 
A  locality  on  the  Blackfoot,  not  far  from  Hell-Gate,  another  at  Big  Rock,  (on  Clark's  fork,) 
and  the  mountains  on  the  right  of  Clark's  fork,  for  some  distance  below  Thompson's  prairie, 
would  furnish  stone  in  great  abundance,  which  would  answer  for  ordinary  purposes.  Mr. 
Tinkham  states  that  not  far  from  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  post,  among  the  Flatheads,  good 
limestone  for  building  could  be  obtained.  Good  granite  is  found  on  the  Columbia,  140  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima.  Dr.  Evans,  geologist,  informs  me  that  stone  will  be  found 
throughout  this  section  at  distances  sufficiently  near  to  obviate  excessive  cost.  Sand  can  be 
obtained  from  Clark's  fork,  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  and  elsewhere.  The  earth  excavation  and  em 
bankment  throughout  this  section  (from  the  east  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Spokane 
river)  will  be  large  in  amount,  and  expensive.  In  all  the  mountain  valleys  the  deep  side-hill 
cuttings  will  frequently  expose  rock,  and  the  bulk  of  the  rock  excavation  in  the  entire  railroad 
route  will  be  in  this  section. 

It  is  evident  that  throughout  this  section,  from  the  entrance  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Pass  to 
the  crossing  of  the  Spokane,  a  distance  of  365  miles,  the  difficulties  of  construction  will  be 
very  great ;  and  that  even  if  the  two  extremities  rested  upon  thickly  inhabited  districts, 
the  cost  would  be  excessive. 

Upon  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  Governor  Stevens  says: 

"It  is  not  doubted  there  are  other  passes  in  this  portion  of  the  Rocky  mountain  range, 
even  better  than  those  explored ;  they  are  indicated  by  the  general  depression  of  the  mount 
ain  range,  with  the  greater  frequency  of  the  streams  stretching  out  to  meet  each  other  from 
the  opposite  slopes  of  the  mountains  ;  and  I  consider  it  important  that,  in  future  operations,  a 
whole  season  should  be  devoted  to  their  thorough  examination,  and  that  instrumental  sur 
veys  should  be  made  of  the  pass  found  to  be  the  most  practicable." 

The  region  between  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains  and  the  Cascade  range,  a  space  of  200 
miles,  is  called  the  Great  Plain  of  Columbia,  or  the  Spokane  Plain.  It  is  a  table-land,  whose 
central  and  western  portions  are  of  trap  formation,  and  are  described  on  the  map  as  sandy, 
rocky,  and  sterile.  Its  summit,  some  800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  crossing  of  the  Spokane, 
could  probably  be  attained  with  gradients  of  35  feet,  the  descent  to  the  crossing  of  the  Colum 
bia  river  (near  the  junction  of  the  Snake  river)  with  grades  of  30  feet,  and  from  thence  to 
Wallah-Wallah,  10  miles  further,  with  grades  of  20  feet.  From  the  crossing  of  the  Spokane 
to  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia  it  is  about  140  miles,  110  of  which  are  over  the  treeless  plain 
of  the  Columbia.  The  river  is  here  from  400  to  450  yards  wide,  with  good  approaches.  The 
earth  excavation  and  embankment  will  not  probably  exceed  the  heaviest  work  of  the  prairies 


46  ROUTE   NEAR   THE   FORTY  SEVENTH    AND    FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS. 

east  of  the  mountains.  A  portion  of  the  excavation  on  the  first  part  of  the  Spokane  Plain 
will  be  rock  (basaltic  trap.)  Its  eastern  end  rests  upon  the  pine,  cedar,  and  larch  districts  of 
the  Columbia. 

Lumber  can  be  brought  down  the  Columbia  to  its  western  end,  and  also  from  the  Yakima, 
100  miles  above  its  mouth.  Good  granite  is  found  on  the  Columbia,  140  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Yakima. 

Within  our  territory,  nearly  the  whole  space  between  the  Columbia  river  (its  general  course 
being  from  north  to  south)  and  Puget  sound,  is  occupied  by  the  Cascade  mountains,  with  their 
secondary  chains,  spurs,  and  high,  broken  table-lands.  Through  these  mountain  masses, 
between  the  parallels  of  45°  30'  and  49°  north  latitude,  there  are  but  two  passes  reported 
practicable  for  a  railroad — that  of  the  Columbia  river,  and  that  in  which  the  north  or  main 
fork  of  the  Yakima  (a  tributary  of  the  Columbia)  heads.  This  latter  pass  has  been  heretofore 
erroneously  called  Snoqualme  Pass.  The  Yakima  Pass  gives  the  most  direct  route  to  Puget 
sound,  the  distance  by  it  being  150  or  160  miles  shorter  than  by  the  Columbia  Eiver  Pass. 
The  approach  to  it  is  by  the  valley  of  the  Yakima.  From  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia  to  the 
commencement  of  the  pine  timber,  96  miles,  the  valley  is  wide,  open,  and  terraced  ;  the 
ground  is  sand,  gravel,  or  loose  stones.  For  21  miles  further,  an  open  pine  wood  extends, 
with  a  light  soil,  sometimes  gravelly.  The  grades  are  from  8  to  12^  feet  per  mile.  No  diffi 
culties  of  construction  whatever  are  met  with.  From  this  point  there  are  two  methods  of  pass 
ing  the  dividing  ridge — one  by  a  tunnel  4,000  yards  long,  3,000  feet  above  the  sea  ;  the  second 
by  a  tunnel  of  11,840  yards,  2,400  feet  above  the  sea.  For  the  short  tunnel  the  ascent  of  895 
feet  is  made  in  18^  miles,  giving  a  grade,  supposing  it  to  be  uniform,  of  48.4  feet  per  mile, 
in  fifty  per  cent,  rock-cutting.  The  tunnel  4,000  yards  long  will  pass  through  solid  rock, 
(silicious  conglomerate  ;)  thence  to  the  falls  of  the  Snoqualme,  45  miles  from  the  tunnel,  the 
road  will  be  in  side-cutting,  (silicious  conglomerate)  with  a  grade  of  59.8  feet  per  mile,  suppos 
ing  it  to  be  uniform.  The  distance  to  the  falls  of  Snoqualme  was  travelled  over  and  estimated 
to  be  greater  by  Mr.  Tinkhani,  and  the  grade  proportionately  less.  From  the  Snoqualme 
falls  to  Seattle,  on  Puget  sound,  it  is  about  30  miles  ;  the  first  ten  will  require  a  grade  of  not 
more  than  20  feet  per  mile,  and  the  remaining  20  miles  will  pass  over  a  level  country.  If  the 
second  tunnel  be  used,  the  18^  miles  before  reaching  it  will  be  with  a  grade  of  15.2  feet  per 
mile,  with  little  side-cutting,  through  a  thickly  timbered  country.  The  divide  must  be  pierced 
by  a  tunnel  11,840  yards  long,  of  a  similar  character  to  the  short  tunnel;  the  grade  to  the 
Snoqualme  falls  will  then  be  46.3  feet  per  mile,  and  the  total  length  of  the  section  240  miles. 

But  the  grades  in  both  cases  will  be  necessarily  broken,  and  higher  than  the  estimate  in 
many  places. 

The  elevations  of  the  different  points  from  the  Columbia,  to  a  point  about  .three  miles  west 
of  the  summit,  were  taken  with  a  barometer;  the  distances  were  estimated. 

In  conclusion,  Captain  McClellan  states:  "I  am  of  the  opinion  that  the  Yakima  Pass  is 
barely  practicable,  and  that  only  at  a  high  cost  of  time,  labor,  and  money."  The  depth  of  snow 
upon  the  summit  of  this  pass  has  been  much  discussed.  Captain  McClellan,  who  made  the 
reconnaissance,  says,  that  he  and  his  party  spared  no  pains  in  inquiring  of  the  Indians  during 
the  summer,  fall,  and  winter,  as  to  the  quantity  and  nature  of  the  snow  in  the  mountains  during 
the  winter.  We  examined  (he  says)  the  snow-marks  on  the  trees,  (similar,  he  informs  me,  to 
those  made  by  standing  water  on  trees,)  in  the  passes,  &c.  All  the  information  obtained  was 
consistent;  and  the  resulting  conclusion,  that  in  ordinary  winters  there  could  not  be  less  than 
from  20  to  25  feet  of  snow  in  the  passes. 

For  the  purpose  of  examining  this  point,  Mr.  Tinkham  crossed  the  mountains  from  Wallah- 
Wallah  to  Seattle,  by  the  Yakima  Pass,  during  the  month  of  January,  passing  the  summit 
on  the  21st  of  January.  "For  about  six  miles  on  the  summit  the  snow  was  found  to  be  six 
feet  deep,  with  an  occasional  depth  of  seven,  as  also  of  four  feet."  "The  whole  breadth  of 
snow,  over  twelve  inches  deep,  was  somewhat  less  than  sixty  miles  in  extent.  Of  this,  about 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY  SEVENTH    AND   FORTY-NINTH  PARALLELS.  47 

forty-five  miles  were  two  feet  and  upwards ;  about  twenty  miles  were  four  feet  and  upwards ; 
and  six  miles  were  six  feet  and  upwards.  All  the  snow  was  light  and  dry ;  it  was  the  accumu 
lated  snows  of  the  winter  to  January  21,  deposited  in  successive  layers  of  a  few  inches  to  two 
feet,  which  have  generally  lain  undisturbed  since  their  fall;  and  they  present  little  obstruction 
to  removal,  in  comparison  with  the  compact  drifted  snows  of  the  Atlantic  States." 

From  the  known  effect  of  abrupt  mountains,  rising  from  plains,  in  increasing  the  precipita 
tion  of  rain,  it  is  not  probable  that  less  rain  falls  on  the  main  chain  of  the  Cascade  mount 
ains  than  at  Puget  sound,  but  rather  more. 

The  mean  amount  of  the  winter  rain  at  Steilacoom,  on  the  sound,  is  20.6  inches  ;  the  amount 
is  nearly  the  same  each  winter.  The  yearly  means  of  the  winter  rain,  in  the  table  of  Governor 
S.'s  report,  are  erroneous,  though  the  mean  for  the  winter  of  several  years  is  correct. 

Snow  occupies  from  ten  to  twelve  times  the  bulk  of  an  equal  quantity  of  rain.  The  snow  of 
the  Cascade  mountains  is  reported  to  be  very  dry  and  light,  and  the  proportion  between  it 
and  rain  is  probably  greater  than  as  12  to  1.  Assuming  it  to  be  12,  and  supposing  the  pre 
cipitation  on  these  mountains,  during  December,  January,  and  February,  to  be  in  the  form  of 
snow,  we  have  at  the  close  of  February  20.6  feet  of  snow. 

The  mean  temperatures  at  Steilacoom,  Puget  sound,  from  observations  at  the  military  post 
there  for  (four)  years,  are: 

November,  46°. 2  Fahr. ;  December,  38°. 3  Fahr.  ;  January,  38°. 1  Fahr.  ;  February,  40°.  1 
Fahr. ;  March,  41°. 8  Fahr.  ;  April,  48°. 6  Fahr. 

Applying  the  rule  that  for  every  300  feet  of  elevation  there  is  a  decrease  of  1°  Fahr.,  we 
have  for  the  temperatures  of  an  elevation  corresponding  to  that  of  the  summit  of  the  Sno- 
qualme  or  Yakima  Pass — 

November,  36°  ;  December,  28°;  January,  28°;  February,  30°. 7;  March,  31°. 8;  April, 
38°. 6. 

But  from  the  barren  and  broken  character  of  the  mountain  masses  east  of  the  Cascade  crest, 
the  abruptness  of  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  main  chain,  and  its  great  general  elevation,  8,000 
feet  above  the  sea,  with  bare  rocky  peaks  projecting  above  this  height,  the  highest  reaching 
an  elevation  of  15,000  or  16,000  feet,  the  temperature  of  the  Yakima  Pass  must  be  lower  than 
the  rule  of  decrease  of  temperature  for  increase  of  elevation  would  give  when  applied  to  the 
temperature  of  Steilacoom.  The  influence  of  these  causes  is  shown  in  the  meteorological 
report  of  Lieut.  Mowry,  by  which  it  will  be  seen  that  the  climate  of  the  Cascade  range  and 
the  country  east  of  it  is  very  cold.  Lieut.  Mowry  says,  page  404,  at  Chequoss  (a  pass  in  the 
Cascade  chain  4,000  feet  above  the  sea,)  on  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  range,  August  9th, 
the  thermometer  indicated  a  temperature  below  the  freezing-point,  and  ice  formed  to  the 
thickness  of  half  an  inch.  At  the  same  time  and  place,  strawberries  were  growing  in  great 
luxuriance  and  abundance.  The  Indians  informed  him  that  the  snow  fell  there  as  early  as  No 
vember,  &C.,  &G. 

Of  the  8.69  inches  of  rain  that  fell  during  January  at  Steilacoom,  5.37  inches  fell  after  the 
26th  ;  and  of  the  20.7  inches  rain  that  fell  there  during  the  winter  (December,  January,  and 
February,)  but  7.74  inches  had  fallen  at  the  time  Mr.  Tinkham  crossed  the  Yakima  Pass,  (21st 
January  ;)  that  is,  but  little  more  than  one-third  of  the  whole  quantity  that  fell  during  the 
winter.  The  above  investigation  is  in  accordance,  then,  with  the  facts  as  found  by  Mr.  Tink 
ham;  but  one-third  of  the  snow  had  fallen  when  he  crossed. 

Lieut.  Grover,  in  crossing  from  Clark's  fork  to  the  Cceur  d'Alene  prairie,  between  the  19th 
and  the  22d  of  February,  found  2|  feet  of  very  hard  snow  for  the  most  part  of  the  way,  the 
elevation  being  about  2,000  and  2,500  feet.  The  country  here  is  very  dry,  according  to  Lieut. 
Mowry. 

It  seems  probable,  from  the  foregoing  investigation,  that  not  less  than  20  feet  of  snow  is 
usually  to  be  found  on  the  summit  of  the  Yakima  Pass  at  the  close  of  winter— gradually 


48  ROUTE   NEAR   THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND   FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS. 

changing  to  12  feet,  6  feet,  A'C.,  &c.     But  the  question  should  not  "be  considered  settled  until 
further  examinations  and  an  instrumental  survey  of  the  Yakiina  Pass  are  made. 

The  terminus  of  the  road  should  be  on  Puget  sound,  and,  from  the  report  of  Capt,  McClel- 
lan,  the  harbor  of  Seattle  would  appear  to  be  the  most  favorable  on  the  eastern  shore.  To 
return  to  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia  river  near  the  mouth  of  Snake  river. 

Capt.  McClellan  states:  "With  regard  to  the  Columbia  river,  I  am  not  prepared  to  speak 
so  much  in  detail ;  the  last  barometer  being  broken  before  we  reached  there  on  our  return, 
and  for  other  good  reasons,  I  passed  down  by  water.  Mr.  Lander,  however,  travelled  the 
greater  part  of  the  distance  by  land  ;  and  as  his  examination  corroborates  the  opinion  I 
formed  at  the  time,  I  shall  content  myself  with  expressing  in  general  terms  the  nature  of 
that  pass."  His  conclusion  is,  that  "it  is  not  only  practicable,  but  remarkably  favorable;" 
and,  in  his  opinion,  it  would  be  desirable  that  an  instrumental  survey  should  be  made  of  the 
Yakima  Pass  and  the  Columbia  Kiver  Pass,  should  any  more  railroad  explorations  be  made  on 
this  line.  In  conversation  Capt.  McClellan  informed  me,  that  the  work  on  the  route  along 
the  Columbia  river,  from  the  Dalles  to  near  Vancouver,  90  miles,  would  be  similar  to  that 
of  the  Hudson  River  railroad  along  the  mountain  region.  Mr.  Lander  says,  "the  high 
floods  to  which  the  Columbia  river  is  subject,  are  serious  obstacles  to  obtaining  the  best 
location  for  cheap  construction  offered  by  its  valley."  From  observations  made  at  Fort  Van 
couver,  from  May  8  to  July  20,  1854,  the  rise  of  the  river  during  the  flood  was  10  feet  above 
spring  level,  and  17  feet  above  summer  level. 

Governor  Stevens  says:  "The  pass  of  the  Columbia  river,  examined  personally  by  myself 
as  well  as  Captain  McClellan  and  Mr.  Lander,  is  remarkably  favorable  in  its  grades,  which 
rarely  exceed  ten  feet,  in  the  ease  with  which  debris  from  the  ledges  can  be  worked  to  form 
the  embankments  required  to  guard  against  freshets,  and  the  great  facility  with  which  wood 
and  stone,  both  of  good  quality,  can  be  transported  down  the  Columbia  for  purposes  of  con 
struction.  The  only  serious  obstacle  is  Cape  Horn  mountain,  which,  to  avoid  sharp  curvature, 
may  require  a  tunnel  seven  hundred  feet  in  length.  The  grades  down  the  Columbia  to  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz,  and  thence  to  Olympia,  Steilacoom,  or  Seattle,  will  be  small,  the 
work  light,  and  abundant  materials  of  all  kinds  will  be  found  for  road-beds  and  super 
structure."  The  ascents  and  descents  are  estimated  at  300  and  TOO  feet.  On  the  Columbia 
the  line  is,  for  the  most  part  of  the  way,  located  in  the  bottom  lands  of  the  river,  and  will 
rarely  be  forced  from  them  to  the  rocky  bluffs  bordering  its  intervale.  Between  Wallah- 
Wallah  and  the  Dalles  Mr.  Tinkham  found  it  necessary  in  only  two  instances  to  cross  the 
rocky  spurs  jutting  out  from  the  river  bluffs. 

The  bluffy  country  bordering  the  Columbia  ceases  near  Cape  Horn.  From  below  the  Dalles 
the  woods  commence,  and  continue  to  the  head  of  Cowlitz  river. 

"The  wide  and  comparatively  flat  and  wooded  valley  of  the  Cowlitz  connects  with  plains, 
sometimes  of  prairie  and  sometimes  of  woodland,  extending  to  Puget  sound,  and  which,  although 
not  fully  explored,  are  sufficiently  well  known  to  insure  the  unusually  favorable  character  of 
the  country  for  the  construction  of  a  railway." 

The  total  length  from  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia  to  Seattle  is  about  390  miles.  The 
earth  excavation  will  not  probably  exceed  the  heaviest  work  of  the  prairies  east  of  the  mount 
ains,  and  is  estimated  not  to  exceed  an  average  of  seven  to  eight  feet.  The  material  for  em 
bankment  is  almost  always  of  a  superior  character. 

The  amount  of  rock-cutting,  with  the  exception  of  the  portion  of  the  line  between  the 
Dalles  and  Cape  Horn,  will  be  very  small.  The  rock  is  generally  a  basaltic  trap. 

In  reference  to  the  facilities  for  construction  upon  Clark's  fork  and  on  the  Columbia,  Gov 
ernor  Stevens  says:  "By  improvements  either  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  or  in  the  use  of  locks  at 
several  points  on  the  Columbia  and  Clark's  fork,  and  by  the  substitution  of  rail  where  such  im 
provement  is  impracticable,  it  is  not  doubted  that  a  continuous  communication  can  be  established 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  to  the  mouth  of  the  Spokane,  and  probably  to  Colville,  and 


ROUTE   NEAR    THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND    FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  49 

from  the  Fend  d'Oreille  lake  to  Horse  Plain.     Eails  will  undoubtedly  be  required  at  several  of 
the  places,  and  transfer  be  made  from  steamer  to  steamer." 

The  total  length  of  the  route  from  St.  Paul  to  Seattle,  Puget  sound,  by  the  Columbia  River 
Pass,  is  2,025  miles,  or  2,050  if  the  Bitter  Root  river  is  used  instead  of  the  Jocko;  by  the 
Yakima  Pass,  1,870  arid  1,845  miles  respectively.  The  distances  just  given  are  taken  along 
the  line  of  location  for  the  proposed  railroad.  They  are  nearly  the  same  as  those  travelled, 
except  on  the  prairies  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  on  the  Spokane  Plain,  where  the 
located  line  is  shorter  than  that  travelled  over,  there  being  no  serious  obstacles  to  the  more 
direct  course.  The  distances  given  differ  from  those  used  by  Governor  Stevens,  owing  to  a 
revision  which  the  maps  have  undergone  since  his  report  was  written. 

SOIL. 

In  the  absence  of  the  geological  report  of  Dr.  Evans,  whose  field  duties  in  "Washington 
and  Oregon  Territories  have  detained  him  there  until  recently,  the  information  upon  the 
character  of  the  soil  upon  the  route  is  not  as  full,  detailed,  and  satisfactory  as  could  be 
desired.  Previous  geological  examinations,  over  portions  as  far  west  as  about  longitude  101° 
or  102°,  show  that  the  uncultivable  region  begins  in  about  the  same  longitude  on  this  route  as 
in  the  latitude  of  the  Arkansas. 

From  the  geological  information  respecting  the  region  between  the  meridian  of  101°  and 
the  Spokane  Plain  imparted  recently  by  Dr.  Evans,  from  the  report  of  Mr.  Gibbs  upon  the 
section  west  of  the  Spokane,  and  after  a  close  examination  of  the  reports,  the  following 
general  conclusions  have  been  arrived  at  respecting  the  soil  of  the  region  traversed  by  the 
northern  route. 

From  the  Mississippi  to  the  western  border  of  the  Plateau  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  in  about 
the  meridian  of  98°  west  of  Greenwich,  the  soil  is  fertile ;  the  upper  layer  being  composed  of 
vegetable  mould.  Here  it  begins  to  be  mixed  with  sand  and  gravel,  the  proportion  of  which 
ingredients  increases  as  you  proceed  westward.  From  Fort  Union  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
(15  or  20  miles  east  of  the  crest,)  the  upper  covering  of  sand,  clay,  and  gravel  is  from  one  to 
three  feet  thick,  and  lies  upon  a  coarse  sandstone.  The  grass,  luxuriant  on  the  vegetable  mould, 
gradually  becomes  thinner,  until  on  the  sterile  soil  it  is  very  sparse.  Immediately  under 
the  mountains  it  improves  again — perhaps  from  the  intermingling  of  limestone  debris,  and 
the  comparatively  greater  fall  of  rain. 

On  the  Coteau  du  Missouri  the  ground  is  rougher,  and  the  grass  thinner,  than  on  the 
prairie ;  and  west  and  south  of  the  Missouri  it  is  in  many  places  even  yet  more  rough  and 
sterile,  the  Mauvaises  Terres  beginning  not  far  from  the  mouth  of  L'Eau-qui-court  river. 

In  fact,  the  tertiary  and  cretaceous  formations  extend  from  about  longitude  97°  west  of 
Greenwich  to  the  eastern  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains;  the  soil  being  stiff  clay  and  sandstone, 
alternating  with  each  other.  The  former  are  well  constituted  for  fertility;  but,  under  the  pres 
ent  meteorological  conditions,  (the  small  yearly  amount  of  rain,  and  the  total  absence  of  it 
at  certain  seasons,)  they  are  unsuitable  for  agricultural  purposes.  They  produce  luxuriant 
grasses  in  the  spring,  but  in  the  dry  season  (the  summer)  the  sun  withers  the  grass ;  parches, 
bakes,  and  cracks  the  clay  surface,  and  not  only  gives  it  a  sterile  aspect,  but  renders  it  unculti 
vable.  The  sandstone  soils  are  in  themselves  sterile.  It  is  thought  by  some  that  if  the  annual 
burning  of  the  prairies  were  to  cease,  forests  would  grow  upon  the  clay  soils,  a  greater  amount 
of  rain  in  the  summer  be  precipitated  by  them,  and  that  these  clay  soils  would  thus  become 
cultivable. 

The  river-bottoms  in  part  (where  the  soils  of  the  different  strata  become  mixed,)  and  the  val 
leys  among  the  mountains,  form  exceptions  to  this  general  condition  of  sterility.  As,  for 
instance,  it  is  Lieut.  Donelson's  opinion  that  upon  the  Missouri  the  soil  is  such  that  the  set 
tlements  might  be  continuous  upon  its  banks  up  to  the  mouth  of  L'Eau-qui-court  river,  longi- 


50  ROUTE    NEAR   THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND    FORTY-NINTH   PARALLELS. 

tude  98°  ;  from  that  point  to  Fort  Union,  about  one-fourth  could  be  settled.  Above  Fort 
Union,  Lieut.  Grover  says:  "On  the  lower  portion  of  the  river  (between  Fort  Benton  and 
Fort  Union,)  there  are  many  quite  extensive  bottoms  well  adapted  to  agricultural  purposes. 
There  is  a  good  deal  of  arable  land,  also,  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Benton,  and  in  the  Sun  River 
valley."  The  proportion  of  cultivable  bottom  lands  on  this  section  of  the  river  is  much  less 
than  one-fourth.  The  Mouse  River  valley  is  represented  to  be  fertile,  as  its  growth  of  ash, 
elm,  and  oak  indicates.  Describing  that  portion  of  the  route  from  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Ben- 
ton,  Governor  Stevens  writes,  "The  bottom  lands,  both  of  the  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers,  are 
composed  of  clay  and  sand,  &c." 

The  space  between  the  Rocky  and  Cascade  mountain  chains  is  principally  occupied,  between 
the  parallels  of  45°  and  49°  latitude,  with  mountain  masses  and  the  great  elevated  plain  of 
the  Columbia. 

From  the  main  Cascade  chain  the  generally  sterile  soil  extends  eastward  over  the  dry 
region  until  the  rain  that  falls  upon  the  Cceur  d'Alene,  Bitter  Root,  and  other  mountains, 
begins  to  be  felt ;  we  then  have  grazing.  The  soil  improves  in  quality  as  the  mountains 
are  approached,  the  valleys  of  which  are  represented  as  fertile,  perhaps  influenced  in  some 
degree  by  the  nature  of  the  mountain  debris  that  have  been  washed  upon  them.  The  Colum 
bia  river  and  its  affluents,  in  their  lower  courses  within  the  limits  above  mentioned,  are 
stated  to  carry  gravel  and  sand,  but  no  fertilizing  matter. 

It  is  their  upper  or  mountain  valleys  (between  the  Cascade  and  Rocky  mountains)  only  that 
are  productive  ;  their  lower  are  uncultivable. 

The  fertile  or  cultivable  areas  are  most  probably  the  exceptions  to  the  general  character  of 
the  soil  between  these  two  mountain  chains,  and  are  of  limited  extent. 

The  soil,  too,  of  a  large  portion  described  as  fertile,  is  most  probably  better  adapted  to  grazing 
than  to  farming.  The  valley  of  St.  Mary's,  and  other  mountain  valleys  in  that  region,  and 
west  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  are  represented  to  have  dark  gravelly  soils.  The  prairies 
on  the  Columbia  river  are  also  more  or  less  gravelly.  The  middle  and  western  parts  of  the 
plain  of  the  Columbia  are  sandy,  rocky,  and  sterile ;  here  and  there  are  sicales,  having  rich 
mould;  bunch-grass,  varying  in  degree  of  sparseness  of  growth,  is  found  over  a  large  portion 
of  its  surface. 

Lieutenant  Mullan  says  of  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  which  has  been  considered  as  a  kind  of 
standard,  "the  soil  of  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  (St.  Mary's)  is  fertile  and  productive,  well 
timbered  with  pine  and  cotton-wood,  but  whose  chief  characteristic  and  capability  is  that  of 
grazing  large  herds  of  cattle,  and  affording  excellent  mill-sites  along  the  numerous  mountain 
streams." 

Probably  about  one-fourth  of  the  area  of  the  valley  is  cultivable,  the  remainder  being  suit 
able  for  grass-lands  only. 

Dr.  Suckley,  referring  to  the  Hell  Gate,  Bitter  Root,  Clark  and  Columbia  rivers,  and  to 
the  Dalles,  says,  "there  are  a  few  pieces  of  excellent  land  along  these  rivers."  The  valley 
of  Clark's  fork  is  heavily  timbered  with  pine  ;  there  is  no  grass. 

Within  the  limits  of  Washington  Territory,  between  the  Cascade  and  Rocky  mountains, 
there  are  7,356  Indians.  Within  the  same  Territory,  west  of  the  Cascades,  the  areas  being 
as  3  to  1  about,  there  are  6,903  Indians.  This  may  give  some  indication  as  to  the  capabilities 
of  the  soil  for  supporting  animal  life. 

West  of  the  Cascade  mountains  there  are  generally  prairies,  soon  exhausted  by  cultivation, 
but  offering  good  grazing;  clay  formations  that  are  arable,  and  rich  river  bottoms.  The  fall 
of  rain  in  the  year  is  about  47  inches;  the  temperature  is  moderate. 

Governor  Stevens  estimates  that  there  are  4,000  square  miles  of  tillable  land  on  the  eastern 
slopes  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  that  the  mountain  valleys  on  the  western  slopes  contain 
6,000  square  miles  of  arable  land. 

The  preliminary  report  of  the  geologist  of  the  party,   made  from  Washington  Territory, 


ROUTE    NEAR   THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND   FORTY-NINTH   PARALLELS.  51 

where  he  was  still  engaged  in  the  field  when  the  report  of  Governor  Stevens  was  prepared, 
failed  to  reach  the  latter,  who  thus  was  not  afforded  the  means  of  correcting  opinions  formed 
from  those  appearances  of  fertility  presented  by  the  growth  of  grasses,  &c.,  which  are  liable  to 
mislead,  especially  after  traversing  a  region  devoid  of  such  verdure.  A  more  thorough 
examination  of  the  country  and  soil  proves  that  very  little,  if  any,  of  the  eastern  slopes  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  is  suitable  for  cultivation  ;  and  that  the  valleys  of  the  streams  east  of  the 
mountains,  and  those  west,  are  capable  of  sustaining  merely  small  agricultural  settlements. 
The  greater  portion  of  these  valleys  are  only  suited  for  grazing  lands  ;  and  this  mountain 
region,  described  as  containing  10,000  square  miles  of  arable  land,  admirably  adapted  by 
nature  for  a  grazing  country,  can  never  sustain  a  large  agricultural  population. 

There  must  be  some  numerical  error  in  the  estimate  of  the  area  of  the  grassed  lands  between 
the  Bitter  Root  and  the  Rocky  mountains,  since  careful  measurements  in  the  office  make  it 
much  less  than  that  given  above. 

It  is  not  probable  that  the  area  of  cultivable  soil  within  the  limits  mentioned,  east  and  west 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  will  exceed  one-tenth  of  the  area  stated — that  is,  1,000  square  miles. 

The  character  of  country  along  the  route  from  St.  Paul  to  Seattle  may  be  summed  up  as 
follows : 

From  St.  Paul  to  Little  Falls,  fertile  soil 109  miles. 

From  the  Mississippi  river  at  Little  Falls   to    Dead  Colt  Hillock,  the  soil  is 

fertile — the  distance  is  about 166      " 

From  that  point  to  the  crossing  of  Reviere  a  Jacques,  near  the  99th  meridian, 

the  change  from  fertility  to  an  uncultivable  condition  takes  place 66       " 

Thence  to  the  crossing  of  Sun  river,  a  distance  of  752  miles,  the  prairie  is  uncul 
tivable  ;  the  river  bottom  of  the  Missouri  in  part,  those  of  Jacques  river,  Mouse 
river,  and  of  other  streams,  possessing  a  cultivable  soil 752  " 

We  then  have  mountain  region  of  404  miles,  a  well-wooded  district  to  the  Spokane 
river,  with  mountain  valleys  of  partly  cultivable  soil,  and  prairies  of  the  same 

character 404       " 

(The  sum  of  the  areas  of  the  cultivable  soil  in  the  Rocky  mountain  region  being 
about  1,000  square  miles.) 

From,  the  Spokane  river  to  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia,  10  miles  above  Fort 

Wallah- Wallah,  over  the  barren  plain  of  the  Columbia 142      ' e 

Thence  to  the  Cascades,  an  uncultivable  though  grazing  district,  about 192      " 

Thence  to  Seattle,  onPuget  sound,  over  cultivable  land,  about 194      " 

Total 2,025      « 

So  that  of  the  2,025  miles  from  St.  Paul  to  Seattle,  on  Puget  sound,  we  have  only  a  space  of 
about  535  miles  of  fertile  country;  the  remaining  1,490  miles  being  over  uncultivable  prairie 
soil,  or  mountain-land  producing  only  lumber,  with  the  limited  exception  of  occasional  river- 
bottoms,  mountain-valleys,  or  prairie. 

CLIMATE. 

Of  the  47  inches  of  rain  that  fall  yearly  at  Steilacoom,  Puget  sound,  15  inches  fall  during 
the  autumn  months,  and  20.6  inches  during  the  winter  months.  At  Fort  Laramie,  on  the  plain 
just  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  23.5  inches  rain  fall  during  the  year.  Ten  inches  of  these 
23.5  fall  during  the  spring,  and  only  3.4  inches  during  the  winter.  At  Fort  Snelling  about 
25  inches  fall  during  the  year  :  of  this  only  2  inches  fall  during  the  winter  ;  6.8  inches  during 
the  spring  ;  10.2  inches  during  the  summer  ;  and  5.7  inches  during  the  autumn.  The  excessive 
autumn  and  winter  rains  of  Puget  sound  are  converted  into  spring  rains  at  the  eastern  base 


52         ROUTE  NEAR  THE  FORTY-SEVENTH  AND  FORTY  NINTH  PARALLELS. 

of  the  Rocky  mountains,  anil  into  summer  rains  at  Fort  Snelling.  It  is  probable  that  the 
Bitter  Root  'range  has  a  heavy  winter  precipitation,  and,  arresting  a  large  proportion  of  the 
moisture  from  the  west,  protects  the  Rocky  mountains  from  it  and  from  heavy  winter  snows— a 
circumstance  favorable  to  the  construction  and  working  of  a  railroad  through  the  Rocky 
mountains  in  this  latitude.  It  appears  probable,  too,  that  the  greatest  precipitation  in  this 
region  takes  place  during  the  latter  part  of  winter  and  the  early  part  of  spring.  Mr.  Tinkham, 
in°crossing  the  Bitter  Root  range,  found  two  and  three  feet  of  snow  in  the  latter  part  of  Novem 
ber  ;  and,  before  he  left  the  camp  on  the  summit  of  the  pass,  (7,250  feet  elevation)  the  snow 
increased  to  the  depth  of  six  feet. 

The  evidence  adduced  by  Gov.  Stevens  shows  that  no  obstruction  to  a  railroad  need  be  appre 
hended  from  snow  across  the  plains  through  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  thence  by 
way  of  the  Columbia  River  Pass  to  Puget  sound,  though  the  great  rise  of  the  Bitter  Root  and 
Flathead  rivers  and  Clark's  fork,  in  the  spring  freshets,  indicates  a  large  deposition  of  snow 
at  their  sources.  It  is  reported,  that  two  winters  previous  to  that  of  Gov.  Stevens' s  party 
beino-  there,  (winter  of  1851-2.)  a  party  of  Flathead  Indians  were  prevented  from  returning 
to  their  village,  in  St.  Mary's  valley,  although  only  two  or  three  days'  travel  from  it,  by  the 
passes  being  blocked  up  with  snow  ;  they  were  on  that  account  obliged  to  pass  the  winter  in 
one  of  the  valleys  east  of  St.  Mary's.  This  does  not,  however,  make  it  impracticable  for  a 
railroad,  since  it  was  the  accumulation  of  drift  of  the  whole  winter,  and  on  a  railroad  track 
it  would  be  removed  as  fast  as  it  fell.  The  meteorological  observations  made  at  Fort  Benton 
and  in  St.  Mary's  valley  during  the  past  year,  will  be  interesting.  The  amount  of  winter 
rains  converted  into  snow,  give  pretty  sure  indications,  in  these  climates,  of  the  greatest  depth 
that  may  be  encountered,  allowing  one  foot  of  snow  to  one  inch  of  rain. 

With  respect  to  the  temperature  of  the  route :  San  Francisco,  in  about  latitude  37°,  has  a 
winter  temperature  of  50°  Fahrenheit ;  Fort  Moultrie,  Charleston  harbor,  about  latitude  33°, 
has  about  the  same  winter  temperature,  50°  Fahrenheit ;  Steilacoom,  Puget  sound,  about  lati 
tude  47°,  has  a  winter  temperature  of  about  39°  Fahrenheit — the  same,  nearly,  as  that  of 
Fort  Monroe,  Old  Point  Comfort,  Chesapeake  bay,  in  latitude  about  37°,  which  is  40°  Fahren 
heit. 

The  mean  winter  temperature  of  Steilacoom,  Puget  sound,  is  39°;  of  San  Francisco,  50°. 4; 
showing  an  increase  of  aloout  1°  of  Fahrenheit  for  1°  of  latitude,  which  is  the  change  generally 
on  that  coast  within  those  limits,  corresponding  nearly  with  the  eastern  part  of  Europe, 
as  given  by  Humboldt. 

On  the  Atlantic  coast,  the  change  from  south  to  north  in  our  territory,  as  far  north  as  Boston, 
is  about  2°. 4  Fahrenheit  for  1°  of  latitude.  The  meteorological  observations  that  I  have  access 
to,  those  of  the  Surgeon  General's  bureau,  do  not  show  whether  this  change  of  proportion  takes 
place  gradually  between  the  shores  of  the  two  oceans,  or  if  it  be  sudden. 

Along  the  Mississippi  river  the  decrease  of  temperature  for  increase  of  latitude  is  somewhat 
less  than  on  the  Atlantic. 

Along  the  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  the  change  of  temperature  in  some  instances  corre 
sponds  with  the  Atlantic,  sometimes  with  the  Mississippi ;  in  other  cases,  the  proportionate 
decrease  of  temperature  going  north  is  greater  than  either.  The  observations  on  the  northern 
route,  as  given  in  the  report,  are  too  imperfect  to  enable  a  satisfactory  comparison  to  be  drawn 
between  them  and  those  made  at  points  further  south.  So  far  as  any  conclusions  can  be 
deduced  from  them,  they  indicate  that  the  law  of  change  of  temperature  along  the  Rocky 
mountain  range  for  change  of  latitude  is  nearly  the  same  as  that  along  the  Mississippi  or  the 
Atlantic  coast — the  points  being  reduced  to  a  common  elevation  by  the  allowance  of  1°  Fah 
renheit  for  every  300  feet  of  elevation.  It  is  supposed,  also,  that  no  great  modifying  influ 
ences  from  local  causes  exist — such,  for  instance,  as  the  Great  Salt  lake.  If,  then,  we  find 
points  along  the  northern  route,  among  the  mountains,  with  winter  temperatures  not  exceed 
ing  those  many  degrees  further  south,  in  the  same  mountain  chain,  it  will  be  due  simply  to 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND    FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  53 

the  low  elevation  of  the  former.  That  the  winter  climate  is  severely  cold  on  the  prairies 
between  Fort  Benton  and  the  mountains,  and  in  the  Rocky  mountain  passes,  is  inferrible 
from  the  reports  of  Mr.  Tinkham  and  Lieutenant  Grover.  That  the  cold  is  excessive  on 
the  prairie  over  the  whole  route  is  evident,  from  the  meteorological  information  contained  in 
the  report.  Mr.  Tinkham,  after  crossing  the  summit  of  the  Marias  Pass,  (latitude  48°  30' 
about,)  found,  on  the  20th  of  October,  at  an  elevation  of  5,600  feet,  (300  feet  higher  than  the 
proposed  tunnel  in  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass,)  the  snow-banks  of  the  previous  winter  still  resting 
on  the  borders  of  the  shaded  ponds  or  small  lakes ;  and  in  the  prairies,  twelve  miles  from 
the  summit,  he  found  four  inches  of  snow.  On  the  route  to  Fort  Benton,  (from  this  pass,) 
between  the  20th  and  27th  of  October,  distance  136  miles,  the  thermometer  was  once  or  twice 
as  low  as  3°  Fahrenheit. 

Lieutenant  Grrover  crossed  the  Rocky  mountains  through  Cadotte's  Pass,  in  January  of 
1854,  and  while  in  the  pass  the  thermometer  descended  as  low  as  21°,  19°,  15°,  below  zero  of 
Fahrenheit. 

The  meteorological  observations  of  the  Medical  department  of  the  army,  furnished  me  from 
the  Surgeon  General's  orifice,  form  the  data,  in  addition  to  those  given  in  Governor  Stevens' s 
report,  for  the  deductions  drawn  respecting  the  amount  of  snow,  rain,  temperature,  &c. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

The  two  principal  favorable  characteristics  of  the  northern  route,  are  its  low  profile  and 
low  grades  ;  the  prairies  extending  in  this  latitude  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  base  of  the 
mountains,  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  from  the  summit,  in  about  longitude  112°  and  113°,  a 
distance  by  the  railroad  route  of  1,000  miles.  Its  proximity  to,  and  connexion  with  the  Mis 
souri  and  Columbia  rivers  and  their  principal  tributaries,  is  also  favorable  to  its  construction. 

The  road  leaves  the  Mississippi  river,  at  Little  Falls,  at  an  elevation  above  the  sea  of 
about  1,100  feet.  Between  Mouse  and  Missouri  rivers  it  has  attained  an  elevation  of  more  than 
2,000  feet.  Its  general  elevation  on  the  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers  is  2,200  feet.  Leaving  Milk 
river,  it  crosses  the  high  prairies  towards  Lewis  and  Clark's  and  Cadotte's  Passes;  at  the 
distance  of  100  miles  on  the  travelled,  and  130  on  the  railroad  location  from  these  passes, 
the  elevation  is  about  3,000  feet.  Upon  entering  the  passes  it  is  about  4,600  feet,  the  summits 
being  respectively  6,300  and  6,044  ;  and  the  proposed  tunnels  at  elevations  of  5,300  and  5,000 
feet  respectively. 

After  passing  the  summit  we  descend  to  the  elevation  of  3,000  feet,  at  about  100  miles  west 
of  it,  by  following  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root,  and  130  miles  west  of  it,  following  the 
Jocko,  making  the  whole  distance  on  the  railroad  route,  exceeding  an  elevation  of  3,000  feet, 
to  be  about  260  miles.  At  the  junction  of  the  Bitter  Root  and  Flathead  rivers,  which  forms 
the  commencement  of  Clark's  fork,  the  elevation  is  about  2,500  feet,  and  at  Pend  d'Oreille 
lake  about  1,600  feet.  In  crossing  the  dividing  ridge  between  Clark's  fork  and  the  Spokane 
river,  and  the  Great  Plain  of  Columbia,  between  the  Spokane  and  Columbia,  the  elevation 
attained  is  about  2,400  feet.  If  the  mountain  district  be  considered  to  extend  from  Sun 
river  to  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  the  route  runs  through  310  miles  of  it ;  if  to  the  Spokane  river, 
about  400  miles. 

The  sum  of  the  ascents  in  crossing  main  divides  or  ridges  going  from  Fort  Vancouver, 
elevation  0,  to  St.  Paul,  elevation  828  feet,  is  about  9,500  feet;  from  Seattle,  on  Puget  sound,  to 
St.  Paul,  the  sum  would  be  10,000  feet. 

The  descents,  going  west,  would  be,  respectively,  above  8, TOO  and  9,200  feet. 

Applying  Latrobe  and  Knight's  rule  for  equating  grades,  the  effect  of  these  ascents 
and  descents,  on  the  working  of  the  road,  would  be  equivalent  to  343  miles  in  the  first  instance, 
and  362  in  the  other. 


54  ROUTE   NEAR    THE   FORTY-SEVENTH    AND   FORTY-NINTH   PARALLELS. 

The  distance  from  St.  Paul  to  Vancouver  is  1,864  miles. 

"  "  Seattle  2,025  miles. 

The  equated  distances  become  (to  Vancouver)  2,207  miles. 

«  "  (to  Seattle)        2,387  miles. 

The  numbers  just  given  are  not  necessarily  a  measure  of  the  sum  of  all  the  ascents  on  the 
route  since  in  making  any  one  of  the  great  ascents  the  road  may  and  does  rise  and  fall  repeat 
edly.  These  minor  undulations  careful  instrumental  surveys  only  can  measure  accurately. 

If  the  prairies  give  a  low  profile,  they  at  the  same  time  have  the  disadvantage  of  furnishing 
neither  lumber  nor  fuel,  nor  a  good  supply  of  water,  and,  at  some  seasons,  none  at  all  over 
certain  distances.  The  cotton-wood  on  the  river  bottoms  (of  which  but  a  limited  supply  exists) 
should  not  be  depended  upon  for  fuel — it  is  no  doubt  of  small  growth ;  that  of  large  growth, 
on  the  rich  lands  of  the  Mississippi,  is  used  for  fuel  on  western  steamboats,  but  the  small 
orowth  will  hardly  prove  fit  for  use  in  locomotives.  It  will  not,  certainly,  be  good  fuel  for 
that  purpose.  Opinions  differ  as  to  its  fitness  for  ties,  even  for  a  temporary  track  by  which  to 
reach  supplies  of  better  lumber  for  a  permanent  road.  By  some  it  is  said  to  be  totally  unfit 
for  this  purpose,  as  it  will  not  hold  a  nail. 

TIES,    LUMBER,    &C. 

The  points  of  supply  of  good  timber  are  Little  Falls,  Mississippi  river ;  Red  river, 
Mouse  river,  Bear's-Paw  mountains,  the  Three  Buttes,  and  the  western  slopes  of  the  Eocky 
mountains. 

The  distances  apart  of  these  points,  over  which  ties  and  lumber  generally  must  be  trans 
ported  up  the  Missouri,  are — 

From  Little  Falls  to  Ked  river,  100  miles  ; 

From  Red  river  to  Mouse  river,  260  miles  ; 

From  Mouse  river  to  Bear's-Paw  mountains,  470  miles  ; 

From  Bear's-Paw  mountains  to  western  slope  of  Rocky  mountains,  170  miles  ;  or, 

From  Three  Buttes  to  western  slope  of  Rocky  mountains,  130  miles. 

West  of  the  Rocky  mountains  the  country  is  well  supplied  with  lumber  throughout,  except 
for  the  space  of  110  miles  in  crossing  the  plains  of  the  Columbia. 

It  will  cost  to  transport  lumber  great  distances  by  the  built  portions  of  the  road,  $4  50 
per  1,000  feet  per  100  miles. 

FUEL. 

Supposing  the  road  supplied  with  fuel,  in  the  districts  destitute  of  it,  from  the  coal-fields 
of  Illinois,  the  nearest  point  to  St.  Paul  is  Port  Byron  on  the  Mississippi,  330  miles  from  St. 
Paul,  and  coal  will  probably  cost  at  St.  Paul  from  $4  to  $6  per  ton. 

As  coal  can  be  transported  three  and  a  half  times  as  far  as  wood,  and  be  equally  economical 
for  locomotive  use,. it  may  be  used  over  600  miles  of  the  northern  route,  beginning  100  miles 
west  of  the  Mississippi,  at  an  average  cost  to  the  road  of  from  $15  to  $17  per  ton.  This  esti 
mate  is  made  merely  to  show  what  would  be  the  cost  over  these  portions  of  the  route  if  cotton- 
wood  cannot  be  used  for  fuel.  The  cost  of  wood  per  cord,  for  200  miles  east  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  would  be  in  the  same  proportion.  The  sources  of  supply  of  good  fuel  from  Red  and 
Mouse  rivers,  Bear's-Paw  mountains,  and  the  Three  Buttes,  will  of  course  be  availed  of,  so  far 
as  they  can  be  economically. 

The  navigation  of  the  Missouri  river  to  Fort  Union  is  closed  by  ice  four  or  five  months  in 
the  year;  that  of  the  Mississippi,  at  St.  Paul,  about  four  and  a  half  months,  from  the  latter 
part  of  November  to  early  in  April. 


ROUTE   NEAR    THE   FORTY  SEVENTH    AND   FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  55 

TUNNELS. 

In  forming  a  judgment  upon  the  practicability  and  length  of  time  required  to  execute  a  tun 
nel,  the  only  safe  guide  is  the  result  of  well-tried  means  of  excavation. 

When  the  question  is  the  construction  of  a  tunnel  of  several  miles  in  length  through  rock, 
the  depth  from  the  surface  heing  so  great  that  shafts  cannot  he  resorted  to,  the  tunnel  is  only 
practicable  if  some  machinery  can  be  applied  to  the  excavation  so  as  to  bring  its  time  of  com 
pletion  within  reasonable  limits.  The  rate  at  which  rock  excavation  could  be  made  in  it,  by 
the  only  means  as  yet  successfully  tried,  would  be  so  slow  that  the  project  would  be  considered 
entirely  impracticable.  It  does  not  appear  that  any  of  the  machines  invented  for  this  purpose 
have  as  yet  proved  successful,  and  no  tunnel  project  depending  upon  their  use  can  be  con 
sidered  practicable  until  they  have  proved  successful  in  trials  of  every  kind. 

In  hard  rock,  where  continual  blasting  is  required,  the  rate  of  progress  may  be  taken  at 
10.5  inches  every  12  hours.  On  the  Black  Rock  tunnel,  Reading  railroad,  through  graywacke 
slate,  the  progress  was  but  little  more  than  0.6  of  a  foot  every  24  hours,  or  2,387  spaces  of  12 
hours  each,  for  constructing  1,782.5  feet  in  length  of  the  tunnel. 

In  the  Blue  Ridge  tunnel,  on  the  Virginia  Central  railroad;  the  progress  has  been  less 
than  two  feet  per  day  of  24  hours. 

Tunnels  two,  three,  and  four  miles  in  length,  in  rock  or  partly  in  rock,  at  depths  exceeding 
1,000  feet  below  the  summit,  in  severely  cold  climates,  at  great  distances  from  thickly  in 
habited  districts,  form  serious  objections  to  any  route. 

The  more  southerly  passes  of  the  Rocky  mountains  partly  explored,  in  connexion  with  this 
route,  have  the  advantage  of  not  requiring  tunnels. 

ESTIMATE. 

Governor  Stevens' s  estimate  of  the  time  required  to  build  the  road  cannot  be  founded  upon 
the  experience  of  any  great  line  of  railroad  built  in  the  United  States. 

The  estimate  of  25  per  cent,  to  the  cost  at  eastern  prices  from  the  Bois  des  Sioux  to  the  Rocky 
mountains,  and  thence  to  the  Pacific  of  40  per  cent.,  is,  in  my  judgment,  too  small  an  increase. 
It  would  have  been  safer,  probably,  to  have  added  100  per  cent,  to  the  cost  at  eastern  prices, 
from  the  crossing  of  Milk  river  to  the  Pacific.  Under  this  supposition,  the  corrected  estimates  of 
$105,076,000,  of  $112,121,000,  of  $105,091,000,  and  of  $129,806^000,  would  have  added  to 
them  $30,690,000,  $33,750,000,  $30,690,000,  and  $41,440,000,  and  would  become— 

Cost  of  road  to  Seattle  by  the  Yakima  Pass,  using  the  long  tunnel,  1,875  miles..     $135,766,000 
Cost  of  road  to  Seattle  by  the  Columbia  valley  and  the  Cowlitz  river,  2,025  miles       145,871,000 

Cost  of  road  to  Vancouver,  1,864  miles 135,781,000 

Entire  system,  St.  Paul  to  the  Columbia,  with  branches  down  the  Columbia  and 
across  the  Cascades,  and  a  connexion  from  Seattle  direct  to  the  Columbia  river, 

2,175  miles,  at  a  cost  of 171,246,000 

To  the  above  original  sums  Governor  Stevens  adds  for  engineering  and  contin 
gencies 5,000,000 

It  does  not  appear  whether  equipment  is  included  in  the  estimate ;  if  it  is  not,  about  $3,000,000 
should  be  added  to  the  above  sums  on  that  account.  If  a  full  equipment  has  been  included, 
$10,000,000  should  be  subtracted  from  each  of  the  preceding  sums,  to  bring  the  estimate  in 
accordance  with  those  of  the  other  routes  ;  and  under  this  latter  supposition  the  estimate  finally 

becomes — 

Cost  of  road  to  Seattle  by  the  Yakima  Pass,  using  the  long  tunnel,  1,875  miles.  $130,766,000 

Cost  of  road  to  Seattle  by  the  Columbia  valley  and  the  Cowlitz  river,  2,025  miles  140,871,000 

Cost  of  road  to  Vancouver,  1,864  miles 130,781,000 

Entire  system 166,246,000 


CHAPTER    II. 

ROUTE  NEAR  THE  FORTY-FIRST  AND  FORY-SECOND  PARALLELS  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE. 

That  portion  of  this  route  from  the  Missouri  river  to  Fort  Bridger,,  on  a  tributary  of  Green 
river,  has  not  been  explored  with  a  special  reference  to  the  practicability  of  constructing  a 
railroad,,  and  the  reports  do  not  contain  all  the  details  necessary  to  the  elucidation  of  the  subject. 
The  information  respecting  it  is  to  be  found  in  the  reports  of  Colonel  Fremont  and  Captain 
Stansbury. 

From  Fort  Bridger  to  the  Pacific,  the  route  has  been  explored  and  reported  upon  by  Lieu 
tenant  E.  G.  Beck  with. 

The  accompanying  report  upon  the  route  east  of  Fort  Bridger,  by  Lieutenant  G.  K.  Warren, 
is  based  upon  the  reports  of  Colonel  Fremont  and  Captain  Stansbury. 

The  eastern  terminus  of  the  route  may  be  either  Council  Bluffs  or  Fort  Leavenworth.  It 
ascends  the  Platte  and  passes  through  the  eastern  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  (the  Black 
Hills,)  either  by  the  North  fork  and  its  tributary,  the  Sweet  Water.,  or  the  South  fork  and 
a  tributary  called  Lodge  Pole  creek.  By  the  former  it  enters  upon  the  great  elevated  table 
land  in  which  the  headwaters  of  the  Platte  and  the  Colorado  of  the  west  are  found,  by  the 
South  Pass,  the  ascent  having  been  gradual  from  the  first  mountain  gorge  in  the  Black  Hills, 
30  miles  above  Fort  Laramie,  to  the  summit  of  the  so-called  pass,  a  distance  of  nearly  300 
miles,  bounded,  generally,  on  either  side,  by  mountains.  This  table-land,  including  the 
Laramie  plains,  extends  300  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  100  from  north  to  south.  Its  soil 
is  light  and  dry  ;  its  growth  artemisia,  with  a  little  scattered  grass,  a  border  of  the  latter  being 
found  on  the  water-courses,  and  scattered  cedars  upon  the  mountains  in  the  western  half. 

By  the  second  route,  the  same  difference  of  elevation  is  overcome  by  the  Cheyenne  Pass,  prob 
ably  in  about  the  distance  usual  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  passes,  the  route  thus  entering  the 
Laramie  plains,  which  may  be  considered  to  form  the  eastern  part  of  the  Great  Plateau  first 
mentioned. 

From  the  Missouri  river  to  the  entrance  of  the  Black  Hills,  the  route  resembles  others  from 
the  Mississippi  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  fully  discussed  elsewhere,  and  needs  no  special  mention. 

It  may  be  estimated  to  cost  $35,000  per  mile  for  construction  and  equipment,  25  per  cent. 
having  been  added  to  cost  at  eastern  prices  for  one-half  the  distance. 

Following  the  northern  fork  of  the-  Platte,  30  miles  above  Fort  Laramie,  520  from  Council 
Bluffs,  and  755  from  Fort  Leavenworth,  this  line  enters  the  Black  Hills  through  a  gorge  with 
vertical  walls  from  200  to  400  feet  high;  thence  to  the  Red  Buttes,  11*7  miles,  the  road  must 
cross  many  streams  coming  from  the  Black  Hills,  that  have  cut  deep  ravines  in  the  earth  near 
their  mouths.  The  construction  will  be  costly. 

From  the  gorge  of  the  Red  Buttes  to  the  Hot  Spring  gorge,  34  miles,  the  route  lies  through 
a  valley.  Above  this  point  the  Platte  passes  through  exceedingly  rugged  ground,  and  is 
walled  in  by  canons. 

The  road  should  leave  the  river  just  below  the  Hot  Spring  Gate,  turn  to  the  north,  and 
cross  the  hills,  the  peaks  of  which  are  800  feet  above  the  Platte,  giving  an  average  grade  of 
133  feet  to  the  mile  for  six  miles,  but  which  doubtless  will  be  found  steeper  than  the  average 
near  the  summit,  descend  10  miles,  with  an  average  grade  of  50  feet  to  the  mile,  to  the  Sweet 
Water,  a  branch  of  the  Platte.  This  stream  occasionally  cuts  through  spurs,  making  canons, 
that  of  the  Devil's  Gate  being  through  granite;  but  it  is  represented  to  be  generally  rather 


ROUTE    NEAR   THE   FORTY  FIRST    AND   FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS.  57 

open,  with  abundant  grass  on  the  immediate  bottoms,  though  the  hills  on  either  side  are  rocky 
and  bare.  At  the  source  of  the  Sweet  Water,  the  summit  of  the  South  Pass  is  attained,  its 
elevation  being  7,490  feet,  the  distance  from  the  first  gorge  in  the  Black  mountains  being  291 
miles,  and  from  Fort  Laramie  321  miles. 

This  whole  section,  from  the  first  gorge  to  the  summit  of  the  pass,  291  miles,  will  be  expen 
sive,  and  is  assimilated,  in  amount  of  work  required,  to  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad, 
and  may  be  estimated,  therefore,  to  cost,  for  construction  and  such  equipment  as  will  be 
required  for  first  use,  50  per  cent,  being  added  for  increased  cost  over  eastern  prices,  $75,000 
per  mile. 

The  only  practicable  route  known,  from  the  South  Pass  to  the  Great  Basin,  is  by  Fort 
Bridger  through  the  passes  in  the  Wahsatch  mountains,  explored  by  Lieutenant  Beckwith. 
The  route  would  traverse  the  Great  Plateau,  following  Sandy  creek,  a  tributary  of  Green  river, 
to  the  crossing  of  the  latter,  from  which  point  to  Fort  Bridger  no  doubt  exists  of  its  practi 
cability.  The  distance  is  131  miles;  the  elevation  of  Fort  Bridger,  7,254  feet. 

The  amount  of  work  on  this  section  would  be  considerably  less  than  that  on  the  preceding, 
and  the  construction  and  equipment  may  be  estimated  to  cost  $50,000  or  $55,000  per  mile;  50 
per  cent,  being  added  to  the  cost  at  eastern  prices. 

From  Council  Bluffs  to  Fort  Bridger  the  distance  is  942  miles,  and  from  Fort  Leavenworth 
1,072  miles. 

The  points  of  supply  for  tics,  lumber,  &c.,  will  be  found  only  at  the  eastern  extremity, 
on  the  Black  Hills  and  on  the  Wind  River  mountains,  the  distances  apart  being  500  and 
300  miles.  Fuel  for  working  parties  will  be  found  along  the  Platte  ;  none  on  the  streams  of 
the  great  plain  west  of  the  South  Pass.  Good  building-stone  is  found  on  the  Sweet  Water. 

Coal  is  to  be  had  at  the  eastern  terminus,  and  extensive  beds  exist  on  Green  river  and  its 
affluents  ;  the  distance  apart  of  the  points  of  supply  being  about  800  miles. 

The  route  along  the  South  fork  of  the  Platte  and  Lodge  Pole  creek,  by  the  Cheyenne  Pass 
and  Bridger 's  Pass,  is  not  so  well  known  as  the  other.  Lodge  Pole  creek  has  never  been 
continuously  explored,  and  there  is  no  profile  of  this  route.  Respecting  the  Cheyenne  Pass, 
Captain  Stansbury  says  his  "examinations  fully  demonstrate  the  existence  of  a  route  through 
the  Black  Hills,  not  only  practicable,  but  free  from  any  obstructions  involving  in  their  removal 
great  or  unusual  expenditure."  He  gives  no  estimated  grades,  and  had  no  barometer  or  other 
instrument  for  measuring  elevations. 

From  the  Cheyenne  Pass  to  Fort  Bridger  "the  country  can  be  crossed  in  many  places,  the 
choice  being  determined  by  considerations  of  fuel  and  water."  That  selected  crosses  the 
divide  between  the  waters  of  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte  and  Green  river,  by  Bridger's  Pass. 

The  expense  of  construction  on  this  route,  from  the  Cheyenne  Pass  to  Fort  Bridger,  would 
probably  be  less  than  that  along  the  Platte.  The  rock-cutting  would  be  small  in  amount, 
and  in  soft  material.  It  crosses  ground  much  cut  up  by  ravines  and  gullies,  and  in  many 
places  easily  torn  up  by  the  torrents,  probably  requiring  care  in  location,  and  much  masonry, 
which  the  absence  of  good  building-stone  would  render  expensive.  Captain  Stansbury  says 
an  extensive  embankmentwill  be  required  on  Muddy  creek,  west  of  Bridger's  Pass.  The  dis 
tance  from  Council  Bluffs  to  Fort  Bridger  by  this  route  is  897  miles. 

A  reliable  comparison  of  the  cost  of  the  two  routes  cannot  be  made  with  the  present  informa 
tion;  and  in  the  estimate  of  the  cost  of  the  whole  route,  I  shall  adopt  that  by  the  South 
Pass,  though  Captain  Stansbury,  who  examined  both,  is  positive  in  his  preference  of  the  other. 

It  is  probable  that  no  unusual  difficulty  may  be  apprehended  from  the  depth  of  snow  be 
tween  Fort  Laramie  and  Fort  Bridger.  The  quantity  that  falls  is  not  exactly  known. 

The  eastern  terminus  of  the  exploration  of  Lieutenant  Beckwith  upon  the  route  of  the  41st 
parallel  is  at  Fort  Bridger,  situated  on  Black's  fork,  a  tributary  of  Green  river,  at  an  eleva 
tion  of  7,254  feet  above  the  sea.     The  line  ascends  the  divide  between  the  waters  of  Green 
river  and  those  of  the  Great  Salt  lake,  by  the  valley  of  Black's  fork  or  of  one  of  its  tributa- 
Sa 


58  ROUTE    NEAR   THE    FORTY- FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS. 

ries,  with  grades  of  09.5  and  40.3  feet  per  mile.  The  summit  is  a  broad  terrace  at  the  foot  of 
the  Uinta  mountains,  and  has  an  elevation  of  8,373  feet.  From  this  point  the  line  descends 
over  the  undulating  country  separating  the  Uinta  and  Bear  River  mountains,  crosses  the  head 
of  Bear  river,  and,  entering  the  valley  of  White  Clay  creek  at  its  head,  follows  that  stream  to 
its  junction  with  Weher  river. 

The  Wahsatch  mountains  now  intervene  between  this  rolling  country  and  the  Great  Salt 
lake,  and  the  passage  through  them  may  be  effected  by  following  Weber  river,  or  by  ascending 
to  near  the  sources  of  the  Timpanogos,  and  descending  that  stream — both  being  affluents, 
directly  or  indirectly,  of  the  Great  Salt  lake.  The  distances  are  about  the  same  to  their  common 
point  on  that  lake. 

There  are  canons  upon  both  these  streams  ;  that  of  the  Timpanogos  is  ten  miles  in  length, 
and  narrow,  being  from  100  to  300  yards  in  width.  It  is  direct  in  its  general  course,  but 
must  be  bridged  at  several  points  to  avoid  short  curves.  The  sides  are  of  blue  limestone,  and 
will  require  rock-blasting  at  some  points.  The  river,  thirty  yards  wide,  descends  with  a  pow 
erful  current,  and,  when  most  swollen,  is  six  feet  .above  its  ordinary  level. 

The  upper  canon,  on  Weber  river,  is  rather  a  gorge,  or  defile,  eight  and  a  half  miles 
long.  The  mountains  rise  to  a  great  height  above  it,  and  are  rocky  and  precipitous,  and 
much  broken  by  ravines.  The  river  is  winding,  and  it  will  be  necessary  to  cross  it  frequently. 
The  lower  canon,  near  the  borders  of  the  valley  of  the  Great  Salt  lake,  is  four  miles 
lung,  direct,  with  an  average  width  of  175  yards,  the  stream  being  thirty  yards  wide,  and 
impinging,  frequently,  with  great  force  against  the  base  of  the  mountains,  which  are  suffi 
ciently  retreating  to  admit  of  the  practicable  passage  of  a  railway. 

Entering  the  valley  of  Great  Salt  lake  from  either  this  or  the  Timpanogos  canon,  there 
is  no  obstacle  to  the  construction  of  a  railway,  passing  by  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  and 
crossing  the  Jordan,  Tuilla  valley,  and  Spring  or  Lone-Rock  valley,  to  its  west  side. 

By  the  valley  of  the  Timpanogos,  the  distance  from  near  Fort  Bridger  to  the  south  end 
of  the  Great  Salt  lake,  on  the  western  side  of  the  valley  of  the  Jordan,  is  182.55  mileh — the 
greatest  grade  required,  eighty-four  feet  to  the  mile. 

The  amount  of  work  required  on  this  section,  excepting  that  along  the  canon,  will  not, 
in  the  opinion  of  Lieutenant  Beckwith,  be  great. 

"From  the  western  shore  of  Great  Salt  lake  to  the  valley  of  Humboldt  river  the  country 
consists  alternately  of  mountains,  in  more  or  less  isolated  ridges,  and  open,  level  plains, 
rising  gradually  from  the  level  of  the  lake  on  the  east  to  the  base  of  the  Humboldt  mount 
ains  on  the  west — that  is,  from  4,200  feet  to  6,000  feet  above  the  sea."  West  of  the  Hum 
boldt  mountains  the  country  is  of  the  same  character,  the  plains  declining  until,  at  the  west 
shore  of  Mud  lake,  usually  called  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  elevation  is  4,100  feet. 
Here  the  ground  rises  again  to  the  plain,  table-land  or  basin  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  whose  eleva 
tion  is  5,200  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  covered  with  irregular  spurs,  ridges,  and  isolated  peaks, 
rising  a  few  hundred  feet,  leaving  a  plain  surface  in  a  north  and  south  direction  sometimes  ten 
miles,  sometimes  only  a  few  hundred  yards,  in  width.  In  an  east  and  west  direction  this 
plain  is  about  forty  miles  in  extent,  bounded  at  either  end  by  mountains,  the  summits  of 
the  passes  through  which  are  400  and  500  feet  above  the  plain,  and  which  prevent  its  drain 
age  into  the  Great  Basin,  or  into  the  waters  of  the  Pacific.  This  plain,  or  basin  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  might  properly  be  called  a  part  of  the  Great  Basin,  since  it  is  in  every  respect  similar 
to  it. 

The  mountains  in  this  space  of  500  miles,  between  the  Great  Salt  lake  and  the  foot  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  have  a  general  north  and  south  course;  occasionally  cross-spurs  close  the 
valleys  to  the  north  and  south,  but  more  frequently  this  isolation  is  only  apparent.  They  are 
sharp,  rocky,  and  inaccessible  in  many  parts,  but  are  low  and  easily  passed  in  others;  their 
general  elevation  varies  from  1,500  to  3,000  feet  above  the  valleys,  and  but  few  of  them 
retain  snow  upon  their  highest  peaks  during  the  summer.  They  are  liberally  supplied  with 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE   FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS.  59 

springs  and  small  streams,  but  the  latter  seldom  extend  far  into  the  plains.  At  the  time  of 
melting  snows  there  are  many  small  ponds  and  lakes,  but  at  other  seasons  the  waters  are 
absorbed  by  the  soil  near  the  base  of  the  mountains.  Grass  is  found  in  abundance  upon  nearly 
every  range ;  but  timber  is  very  scarce,  a  small  scattered  growth  of  cedar  only  being  seen  upon 
a  few  ranges.  East  of  the  Humboldt  mountains,  the  growth  of  cedars  is  more  abundant  and 
the  grass  better.  The  valleys  rarely  have  a  width  east  and  west  of  more  than  five  or  ten  miles, 
but  often  have  a  large  extent  north  and  south.  They  are  irregular  in  form,  frequently  extend 
ing  around  the  ends  of  mountains,  or  uniting  to  succeeding  valleys  by  level  passages.  The 
greater  part  of  the  surface  of  these  valleys  is  merely  sprinkled  by  several  varieties  of  sombre 
artemisia,  (wild  sage,)  presenting  the  aspect  of  a  dreary  waste  ;  though  there  are  spots  more 
thickly  covered  with  this  vegetation,  yet  the  soil  is  seldom  half  covered  with  it  for  a  few  acres, 
and  is  nowhere  suitable  for  settlement  and  cultivation.  Immediately  west  of  Great  Salt  lake 
there  is  a  desert  plain  of  mud,  clay,  and  sand,  impregnated  with  salt,  seventy  miles  in  width 
from  east  to  west  by  its  longest  line,  and  forty  at  a  narrower  part  further  south — thirty  miles 
of  which  must  be  piled  for  the  passage  of  a  railroad  across  it. 

A  railroad  may  be  carried  over  this  series  of  plains,  and  around  the  mountain  masses,  at 
nearly  the  general  level  of  the  valleys.  The  route  in  this  manner  reaches  the  foot  of  the 
Humboldt  mountains — a  narrow  but  elevated  ridge,  containing  much  snow  during  most  of  the 
year — and  crosses  them  by  a  pass  nine  miles  long,  about  three  of  which  are  occupied  by  a 
narrow,  rocky  ravine,  above  which  the  road  should  be  carried  on  the  sloping  spurs  of  the 
mountains  on  the  Avestern  descent.  Elevation  of  summit,  6,5*79  feet  above  the  sea.  At  the 
time  when  passed,  21st  May,  snow  covered  the  high  peaks  above  it,  and  a  few  drifts  extended 
into  the  ravines  down  to  the  level  of  its  summit. 

The  descent  is  now  made  to  the  open  valley  of  Humboldt  river,  which  is  followed  for  about 
190  miles.  The  steepest  grade  proposed  in  the  pass  of  Humboldt  mountain  is  eighty-nine  feet 
per  mile  for  eight  miles,  but  this  can  be  reduced  by  gaining  distance  to  any  desirable  extent. 

The  Humboldt  river,  as  described  by  Colonel  Fremont,  is  formed  by  two  streams  rising  in 
mountains  west  of  the  Great  Salt  lake — the  Humboldt  mountains.  Its  general  direction  is 
from  east  to  west,  coursing  among  broken  ranges  of  mountains ;  its  length  about  three  hundred 
miles.  It  is  without  affluents,  and  terminates  near  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  in  a  marshy 
lake.  It  has  a  moderate  current,  is  from  two  to  six  feet  deep  in  the  dry  season,  and  probably 
not  fordable  anywhere  below  the  junction  of  the  two  streams  during  the  melting  of  the  snows. 
The  valley  varies  in  width  from  a  few  miles  to  twenty,  and,  excepting  the  immediate  river- 
banks,  is  a  dry,  sandy  plain,  without  grass,  wood,  or  arable  soil.  Its  own  immediate  valley 
(bottom)  is  a  rich  alluvion  covered  with  blue  grass,  herdsgrass,  clover  and  other  nutritious 
grasses,  and  its  course  is  marked  through  the  plain  by  a  line  of  willow,  serving  for  fuel. 

Of  the  three  lines  from  the  Humboldt  river  to  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  best  is  that 
by  the  Noble's  Pass  road,  as  it  avoids  the  principal  range  of  mountains  crossed  on  the  line 
followed  a  few  miles  south.  The  line  followed  crosses  two  ranges  of  the  general  character  of  the 
Basin  mountains,  and  reaches  the  foot  of  the  Madelin  Pass  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  on  the  west 
shore  of  Mud  lake,  in  a  distance  of  119  miles,  and  at  an  elevation  of  4,079  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  topographical  features  of  the  Great  Basin  present  extraordinary  facilities  for  the  construc 
tion  of  a  railroad  across  it.  By  the  route  followed,  the  distance  is  more  than  600  miles  from 
the  debouche  of  the  Timpanogos  river  to  the  west  shore  of  Mud  lake. 

In  this  latitude,  the  Sierra  Nevada  was  found  to  be  a  plateau  about  5,200  feet  above  the  sea, 
forty  miles  in  width  from  east  to  west,  enclosed  at  these  limits  by  low  mountains,  the  sum 
mits  of  the  passes  through  which  are  four  and  five  hundred  feet  above  its  surface.  The  plain 
is  covered  with  irregular  spurs,  ridges,  and  isolated  peaks,  rising  a  few  hundred  feet,  limiting 
it  in  a  north  and  south  direction  sometimes  to  a  space  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  and  in  others 
to  that  of  ten  miles.  These  spurs,  &c.,  on  the  eastern  portion  of  the  plateau  are  sparsely 
covered  with  cedar  ;  on  the  western,  heavily  covered  with  pine. 


80  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY  FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS. 

There  is  no  drainage  from  this  plain,  the  waters  of  a  few  small  streams  and  springs  forming 
grassy  ponds  upon  its  surface.  In  its  general  features  it  is  similar  to  the  Great  Basin,  excepting 
that  as  more  rain  falls  upon  it,  the  vegetation  is  comparatively  luxuriant. 

The  two  routes  by  which  this  plain  is  reached  from  the  Great  Basin,  and  the  descent  after 
wards  made  to  the  Sacramento  river,  are  described  in  detail  in  the  concluding  chapter  of  Lieu 
tenant  Beckwith's  report. 

That  called  the  Madelin  Pass,  the  more  northern,  is  most  probably  the  better  of  the  two,  and 
is  the  only  one  necessary  to  be  considered.  Leaving  Mud  lake,  it  ascends  by  the  valley  of 
Smoky  creek,  for  three  miles  through  a  narrow  gorge  (from  100  to  150  yards  wide)  in  an 
outlying  spur  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  sides,  formed  of  coarse,  crumbling,  metamorphic  rock, 
much  broken  by  side  ravines,  rise  abruptly  to  the  height  of  from  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  on 
the  south,  and  to  a  much  greater  elevation  on  the  north  side.  The  course  of  the  gorge  is 
direct,  and  can  be  followed  without  difficulty  by  a  railroad.  Above  the  gorge,  the  valley 
expands  to  the  width  of  half  a  mile  and  a  mile,  and  again  becomes  narrow  ;  being  enclosed  on 
the  north  by  retreating  mountain  spurs,  the  means  of  ascending  by  a  very  uniform  grade  is 
afforded.  Near  the  summit  the  grassy  ascent  is  but  200  yards  wide,  with  rocky  hills  rising 
gently  two  or  three  hundred  feet  above  it.  The  pass  is,  thus  far,  of  a  very  favorable  character; 
the  length  of  the  ascent  is  22.89  miles,  the  difference  of  elevation  1,172  feet,  the  altitude  of  the 
summit  5,667  feet,  and  the  steepest  slope  75  feet  per  mile. 

By  a  gentle  descent  for  five  miles  the  plateau  is  gained,  and  then  crossed  to  the  low  ridge 
enclosing  it  to  the  west,  the  summit  elevation  of  which,  5,736  feet,  is  attained  by  following 
a  ravine  valley,  sometimes  a  mile,  at  others  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  bounded  by  ridges 
rising  gently  on  either  side.  The  descent  is  commenced  by  a  narrow  ravine,  and  is  at  first 
rapid,  420  feet  in  2.4  miles;  but  the  ravine  soon  widens,  and  a  creek  descends  from  it  with 
a  free  current,  a  tributary  of  the  Sacramento  river.  A  cut  is  proposed  at  the  summit  120  feet 
deep,  running  out  to  the  surface  at  either  end,  making  a  length  in  all  of  four  miles,  and  a 
grade  of  124  feet  per  mile  for  2.4  miles.  It  may  be  preferable  to  tunnel  instead  of  cutting, 
or  to  cut  only  one-half  the  depth  proposed. 

The  open  plain  of  Round  valley,  on  the  Sacramento,  is  reached  15  miles  from  the  summit, 
(difference  of  elevation  1,300  feet,)  over  one-half  of  which  distance  the  road  must  be  located 
along  the  mountain  on  the  northeast  side  of  the  stream.  Although  the  greater  number  of 
ravines  is  found  on  that  side,  there  are  no  canon  walls,  two  of  which  exist  on  the  southwestern 
side. 

From  this  point  the  route  lies  over  the  smooth  plain  of  Round  valley  to  the  head  of  the 
first  canon  on  the  Sacramento,  a  distance  of  15  miles. 

This  canon  is  a  formidable  obstacle  to  be  overcome.  Its  entire  length  is  nearly  14  miles, 
succeeded  by  an  open  valley  of  similar  extent,  which  is  followed  by  a  second  canon  nine  miles 
in  length,  of  the  same  character  as  the  first.  From  the  mouth  of  Canoe  creek,  four  miles  below 
the  foot  of  the  second  canon,  for  the  space  of  96  miles  the  course  of  the  Sacramento  lies  entirely 
through  heavily  timbered  mountains,  which  rise  precipitously  from  the  river-banks  to  the 
height  of  from  1,500  to  2,000  feet  above  the  stream.  Its  course  is  very  sinuous,  with  all 
varieties  of  curves  greater  than  a  right-angle,  and  is  seldom  entirely  straight  for  two  miles 
consecutively.  The  construction  of  this  portion  of  the  route,  136  miles  in  length,  would  be 
one  of  no  ordinary  difficulty  or  expense  under  the  most  favorable  circumstances  of  dense 
population,  and  the  facilities  of  railroad  construction  which  it  would  afford.  It  is  impossible, 
with  the  data  presented,  to  form  a  reliable  opinion  of  its  probable  cost.  To  set  down  the 
amount  of  labor  required  at  that  of  the  Hudson  river  railroad,  will  be,  it  appears  to  me,  to 
under-estirnate  it,  since  only  a  portion  of  that  railroad,  144  miles  long,  runs  through  the  mount 
ainous  district,  whereas  the  whole  of  this  is  of  that  character. 

As  an  intelligible  description  of  these  portions  of  the  river  cannot  be  more  brief  than  that 
of  Lieut.  Beckwith,  I  make  the  following  extract  from  his  resume  of  the  route: 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY- FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS.  61 

EXTRACT  FROM  THE  REPORT  OF  LIEUTENANT  BECKWITH. 

"Round  valley,  through  which  the  Sacramento  river  descends  from  the  northeast,  and  through 
which  a  road  can  he  carried  at  pleasure,  extends  for  fifteen  miles  below  this  point  to  the  head  of 
the  first  canon  of  the  Sacramento.  This  canon  is  a  formidable  obstacle  to  be  overcome.  Its 
entire  length  is  13.74  miles,  succeeded  by  an  open  valley  of  similar  extent,  which  is  followed 
by  another  canon,  8.95  miles  in  length,  of  the  same  character  as  the  first.  The  river,  as  it 
enters  the  first  canon,  is  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  wide,  flowing  with  a  rapid  current  over  a  bed 
of  rocks,  and  it  is  sixty  feet  wide  as  it  enters  the  second  cafion  just  below  the  junction  of 
Fall  river,  and  flows  over  a  similar  bed  with  an  equally  swift  current.  At  their  heads  these 
canons  are  vertical,  metamorphic  rocks,  eighty  feet  high,  with  large  masses  of  fallen  rocks 
accumulated  at  the  bases  of  the  walls.  The  first  is  cut  through  a  high  plain  for  six  miles  ;  the 
plain  then  rises  somewhat,  and  is  surmounted  by  high  sloping  ridges,  rising  five  or  six  hundred 
feet  above  it,  and  the  canon  becomes  much  broader  and  its  walls  more  elevated  for  two  miles, 
to  where  it  makes  a  large  bend  to  the  north;  below  this  the  walls  gradually  decrease,  and  in 
two  miles  the  cafion  opens  to  the  width  of  half  a  mile,  which  it  preserves  for  three  miles  to  the 
succeeding  valley.  The  highest  portions  of  the  walls  rise  two  hundred  feet  above  the  stream, 
with  an  accumulation  of  fallen  rocks  extending  half  way  to  the  top.  For  eight  miles  the 
course  of  the  cafion  is  direct.  It  then  makes  a  long  bend  to  the  north,  and  is  followed  by  two 
or  three  short  curves,  but  with  a  generally  direct  course.  Its  open  part  is  timbered  and  its 
walls  less  abrupt,  and  on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream  the  mountains,  followed  by  the  river, 
extend  considerably  into  the  plain  of  Fall  river.  The  most  favorable  line  for  the  passage  of  a 
railway  leads  along  the  plain  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  and  descends  the  sides  of  the  rocky 
hills  which  surmount  it,  and  continues  on  the  side  of  the  mountain  until  it  enters  the  plain 
of  Fall  river.  The  second  canon  is  only  less  formidable  than  the  first  because  of  its  less 
extent.  Its  character  is  entirely  the  same,  except  that  it  is  surmounted  near  its  head  by  sloping 
mountain  ridges  of  a  similar  altitude  to  the  former.  But  on  the  south  side,  a  few  miles  distant, 
the  ridge  subsides  into  rocky  volcanic  hills  and  plains.  It  will  require  a  minute  survey  to 
determine  the  most  practicable  line  by  which  to  pass  it;  but  it  is  probable  that  the  best  line  will 
be  found  to  leave  the  river  a  few  miles  above  Fall  river,  and  to  pass  around  the  ridge  extending 
southward,  and  again  return  to  the  Sacran.ento  at  the  mouth  of  Canoe  creek,  four  miles  below 
the  foot  of  the  cafion,,  avoiding  short  curves  which  must  be  encountered  in  it,  and  diminishing 
the  amount  of  rocky  cutting ;  for,  in  the  passage  of  each  of  these  canons  the  expense  will  be 
very  heavy  from  this  cause,  and  can  only  be  estimated  after  an  extensive  and  complete  survey. 

"For  ninety-six  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Canoe  creek  to  seventeen  miles  above  Fort 
Beading  the  course  of  the  Sacramento  lies  entirely  through  heavily-timbered  mountains, 
which  rise  precipitously  from  the  river-banks  to  the  height  of  from  1,500  to  2,000  feet  above 
the  stream.  Its  course  is  winding,  with  all  varieties  of  curves  greater  than  a  right-angle,  and 
it  is  seldom  entirely  straight  for  two  miles  consecutively;  but  its  general  courses  are  more  uni 
form. 

"  The  foot  of  the  mountains  along  the  stream  is  often  obstructed  by  fallen  rocks  to  such  an 
extent  as  to  prevent  its  passage  on  horseback,  and  it  is  also  obstructed  by  fallen  timber  and 
dense  thickets  of  bushes ;  but  the  obstructions  from  fallen  rocks  are  favorable  rather  than  other 
wise,  for  the  construction  of  a  railroad,  as  they  will  serve  to  form  its  sub-structure.  At 
many  points,  but  for  short  distances  only,  the  way  is  obstructed  by  rocks  in  place.  The  road 
will  require  to  be  carried  on  the  side  of  the  mountains,  a  few  feet  above  the  stream  at  high 
water,  throughout  this  entire  section  to  the  open  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  whence  it  can  be 
continued  on  the  open  plain." 

The  estimate  of  cost  may  be  set  down  at  not  less  than  from  $150,000  to  $200,000  per  mile; 
100  per  cent,  to  the  cost  at  eastern  prices  having  been  added. 


62  ROUTE    NEAR   THE   FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS. 

Seventeen  miles  above  Fort  Reading  the  open  valley  of  the  Sacramento  is  attained,  over 
which  a  railroad  may  be  carried  to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  250  or  300  miles  distant. 

The  distance  from  Fort  Bridger  to  Fort  Reading,  by  the  line  of  Lieutenant  Beckwith's 
profile,  is  1,012  miles;  from  Fort  Lcavenworth  to  Fort  Bridger,  1,072  miles;  making  the 
whole  distance  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort  Reading,  on  the  Sacramento,  2,084  miles,  and 
to  Benicia  2,264  miles. 

The  distance  from  Council  Bluffs  to  Benicia,  by  the  above  route,  is  2,134  miles. 

Using  the  line  along  which  the  route  can  be  located  in  the  Great  Basin,  about  103  miles 
shorter  than  that  travelled,  the  distances  become,  from  Fort  Bridger  to  Fort  Reading,  909 
miles;  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort  Reading,  1,980  miles  ;  and  to  Benicia,  2,1G1  miles. 

The  distance  from  Council  Bluffs  to  Benicia  becomes  2,031  miles. 

TIMBER,    BUILDING    MATERIALS,    &C. 

Pine  and  fir  are  found  on  the  Uinta  mountains  and  terrace,  and  pine  upon  the  Wahsatch 
mountains.  Dense  forests,  furnishing  timber  of  the  best  quality,  cover  the  western  slopes  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada;  the  distance  between  these  points  of  supply  being  about  700  miles.  Lieu 
tenant  Beckwith  is  of  opinion  that  the  scattered  growth  of  cedar  upon  the  Basin  mountains, 
between  the  Great  Salt  lake  and  the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  su  ciently  large  for  ties,  and  "al 
though  it  will  require  transporting  for  long  distances,  it  is  believed  to  be  sufficiently  abundant 
for  the  construction  of  the  road." 

Should  this  growth  be  found  unsuitable  for  ties — and  it  has  been  so  considered  by  me,  in 
the  review  of  the  route  near  the  35th  parallel — ties,  as  well  as  other  lumber  required  for  his 
portion  of  the  route,  must  come  from  the  Wahsatch  or  Uinta  mountains  on  the  east,  and  the 
western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada — the  distances  apart  of  these  points  being,  as  above  stated, 
about  700  miles. 

FUEL. 

Should  the  coal  beds  in  the  Great  Plain  of  Green  river  prove  to  be  of  such  quality  and  extent 
as  to  admit  of  their  being  profitably  worked,  they  will  supply  fuel  for  the  use  of  the  road  for 
600  miles  west  of  that  plain,  or  for  as  much  more  of  the  remaining  230  miles  to  the  western 
slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  as  may  be  found  economical.  The  cedar  growth  of  the  Great 
Basin  could  furnish  but  a  very  small  supply  of  fuel. 

The  distance  between  the  supply  of  coal  near  Fort  Leavenworth  and  that  of  Green  river 
may  be  set  down  at  800  miles,  and  to  the  cost  of  mining  must  be  added  that  of  transportation 
for  a  mean  distance  of  200  miles  over  the  railroad,  for  the  mean  cost  of  the  coal  throughout 
this  distance  of  800  miles. 

This  estimate  does  not  take  into  account  the  changes  in  the  physical  condition  of  the  country 
that  the  construction  of  a  railroad  would  effect  on  this  as  upon  all  other  routes.  When  the 
annual  burning  of  the  prairies  ceases,  it  is  thought  that  trees  will  be  found  in  many  places  now 
destitute  of  them — that  a  greater  amount  of  precipitation  will  then  take  place,  the  forest 
growth  be  extended,  and  thus  not  only  supplies  of  lumber,  fuel,  &c.,  be  found  where  none 
now  exist,  but  a  gradual  amelioration  of  soil  likewise  take  place. 

SNOW — CLIMATE. 

The  information  respecting  the  amount  of  snow  to  be  met  with  in  the  ravines  of  the  mount 
ain  passes,  and  canons,  and  respecting  the  winter  climate  of  these  portions  of  the  route,  is 
meagre.  Apparently,  Lieutenant  Beckwith  does  not  apprehend  unusual  difficulties  in  the 
working  of  a  railroad  on  the  route  from  this  cause.  That  the  winter  is  long  and  severe  on 
the  most  elevated  portions,  especially  on  the  great  plateau  and  divide  between  the  waters  of 
Green  river  and  the  Great  Salt  lake;  is  to  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  when  Lieutenant  Beck- 


ROUTE   NEAR   THE   FORTY-FIRST    AND   FORTY  SECOND   PARALLELS.  63 

with' s  party  was  on  this  divide,  about  the  10th  of  April,  the  streams  were  not  swollen,  and 
they  could  not  discover  that  the  depth  of  snow  (from  12  to  16  inches)  was  less  than  in  winter ; 
that  is,  the  sun  had  not  yet  begun  to  melt  it;  on  the  northeast  slopes  of  the  hills  and  ravines 
it  had  accumulated  in  deep  drifts.  The  spring  freshets  of  Weber  and  Timpanogos  rivers  are 
six  feet  in  height. 

Captain  Stansbury  says  that  the  Uinta  mountains  were  covered  with  snow  for  a  consider 
able  distance  from  their  summits  on  the  19th  of  August,  1849.  The  following  extracts  from 
his  report  may  give  an  idea  of  the  severity  of  the  winter  in  the  mountains  east  of  the  Great 
Basin. 

Of  the  winter  of  1849-50,  he  says:  "I  had  hoped,  from  the  representations  which  had  been 
made  to  me  of  the  mildness  of  the  two  previous  winters,  that  we  should  be  able  to  keep  the  field 
the  greater  part,  if  not  the  whole  of  the  season ;  but,  in  the  latter  part  of  November,  the  winter 
set  in  with  great  and  unusual  severity,  accompanied  by  deep  snows,  which  rendered  any 
further  prosecution  of  the  work  impracticable." — (Page  120  of  Report.) 

"  The  winter  season  in  the  valley  was  long  and  severe.  The  vicinity  of  so  many  high  mount 
ains  rendered  the  weather  extremely  variable;  snows  fell  constantly  upon  them,  and  fre 
quently  to  the  depth  of  ten  inches  in  the  plains.  In  many  of  the  canons  it  accumulated  to 
the  depth  of  fifty  feet,  filling  up  the  passes  so  rapidly  that,  in  more  than  one  instance,  emi 
grants  who  had  been  belated  in  starting  from  the  States  were  overtaken  by  the  storms  in  the 
mountain  gorges,  and  forced  to  abandon  everything,  and  escape  on  foot,  leaving  even  their 
animals  to  perish  in  the  snows.  All  communication  with  the  world  beyond  was  thus  effect 
ually  cut  off;  and,  as  the  winter  advanced,  the  gorges  became  more  and  more  impassable, 
owing  to  the  drifting  of  the  snow  into  them  from  the  projecting  peaks. 

"  We  remained  thus  shut  up  until  the  3d  of  April." — (Page  122.) 

The  Uinta  terrace  and  the  great  plain  of  Green  river  no  doubt  possess  the  usual  attributes 
of  elevated  table-lands,  dryness  of  atmosphere,  and  great  difference  between  the  temperature 
of  day  and  night,  increased  by  their  great  elevation  of  8,000  and  7,000  feet.  But  the  precipi 
tation  on  the  mountains  is  very  much  greater. 

The  winter  temperature  of  the  vicinity  of  the  Great  Salt  lake  is  generally  mild,  tempered, 
no  doubt,  by  the  large  body  of  salt  water.  That  of  the  Great  Basin  generally,  I  should  infer  to 
be  more  severe. 

Dr.  Wozencraft,  of  California,  visited  the  plateau  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  about  the  10th 
January,  1854,  and  found  the  snow  on  the  route  of  Lieutenant  Beckwith  to  average  six  inches 
in  depth,  and  nowhere  reaching  eight  or  ten  inches  in  its  average  fall ;  but  encountered  one 
drift  of  snow  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  in  a  ravine,  extending  a  mile,  averaging 
two  feet  or  two  feet  and  a  half  in  depth. 

From  the  observations  of  the  Surgeon  General's  department,  the  results  of  which  are  tabulated 
below,  it  appears  that  of  the  6.18  inches  of  rain  that  fell  during  December,  1853,  January 
and  February,  1854,  at  Fort  Reading,  on  the  Sacramento,  in  lat.  40°  28',  1.18  inch  had  fallen 
previous  to  the  10th  January,  and  this  fell  during  December  ;  that  is,  about  one-fifth  of  the 
whole  winter  precipitation  of  that  year  had  fallen  previous  to  the  12th  January.  On  that 
day,  1.30  inch  of  rain  fell. 

The  plateau  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  partakes  of  the  character  of  mountain  and  table-land.  It 
is  probable  that  on  the  western  portion,  at  least  as  much  rain  falls  as  at  Fort  Reading  ;  on  the 
eastern  portion,  probably  much  less.  Should  the  winter  precipitation  be  in  the  form  of  snow, 
it  is  probable,  then,  that  7.6  feet  of  snow  falls  on  the  western  part  of  the  plateau  during 
December,  January,  and  February — the  mean  winter  fall  of  rain  at  Fort  Reading  being  7.6 
inches.  The  mean  winter  temperature  of  this  portion  of  the  plateau  is  not,  probably,  higher 
than  30°. 2  Fahrenheit,  that  of  Fort  Reading  being  47°. 2  Fahrenheit.  The  temperature  of  the 
eastern  portion  is  probably  lower. 


64  EOUTE   NEAR   THE   FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS. 

Yearly  precipitation  and  temperature  at  Fort  Heading,  Sacramento  river,  California,  latitude  40°  28'. 


b 
Year.                  5 

c 
;       « 

February. 

.= 

w 

s 

t 
< 

&• 

0 

c 

3 

>, 

5 

< 

September. 

October. 

November. 

December. 

to 

£. 

cc 

Summer. 

Autumn. 

Winter. 

|M 

a 

V 

>< 

1853  4-66 

3.18 

7.11 

4.57 

0.70 

0.00 

0.00 

0.24 

0.02 

0.02 

2.52 

1.18 

12.38 

0.24 

2.56 

7.81 

23.02 

1851                           2.90 

2.10 

8.00 

3.07 

2.40 

0.00 

0.00 

0.00 

0.00 

2.26 

0.87 

13.47 

0.00 

3.13 

6.18 

22.78 

Mean  3.~8 

2.64 

7.55 

3.8-2 

1.55 

0.00 

0.00 

0.12 

0.01 

1.14 

1.C9 

1.18 

12.92 

0.12 

2.84 

7.60 

23.48 

Observations  for  December,  1854,  have  not  yet  been   received.     For  the  mean  of  the  two 
years  the  rain  for  that  month  has  been  supposed  to  be  the  same  as  in  1853. 

Mean  temperature  of  Fahrenheit  from  two  years1  observations. 


47.0 

March  

53.74 

1  June  

75.30 

71   84 

44.25 

60.02 

July  

84.40 

October 

64  03 

50.55 

May  

66.71 

Aui'ust  

78  95 

•54  72 

Winter  

47.2 

Spring  

60.16 

79  55 

63  53 

Abundant  supplies  of  water  were  found  by  Lieut.  Beck  with  on  the  mountains  of  the  Basin. 
The  season  of  the  year  when  he  crossed  it,  the  spring,  was  the  most  favorable.  In  the  dry 
season,  the  supply  is,  no  doubt,  much  less  abundant. 

SOIL. 

The  only  large  body  of  cultivable  soil  found  on  this  route  west  of  the  99th  meridian,  is 
that  occupied  by  the  Mormons  on  the  western  foot-slopes  of  the  Wahsatch  mountains,  forming 
the  eastern  border  of  the  Great  Basin.  The  following  description  of  this  fertile  tract  is 
taken  from  Lieut.  Beckwith's  report  upon  the  route  near  the  38th  and  39th  parallels  of  north 
latitude : 

"The  western  range  of  the  Wahsatch  mountains,  standing  on  the  eastern  border  of  the 
Great  Basin,  is  continuous,  extending  north  and  south  over  five  degrees  of  latitude,  from  the 
vicinity  of  Little  Salt  lake  to  north  of  Bear  river,  broken  only  by  the  passage  of  the  Sevier, 
Timpanogos,  Weber,  and  Bear  rivers.  Its  altitude  at  3,000  feet  above  the  general  level  of 
the  country  is  quite  uniform  ;  but  it  occasionally  falls  down  to  2,000,  and  at  a  few  points  rises 
to  4,000  and  4,500  feet.  Its  western  slope  is  very  steep — often  inaccessible — presenting  gen 
erally  a  formidable  barrier  to  the  entrance  of  a  railroad  into  the  Basin  from  the  east.  Many 
small  streams  descend  from  it ;  and  as  far  as  its  disintegrations  have  been  deposited  at  its 
base  upon  the  alkaline  plains  of  the  Basin,  it  forms  a  rich  soil.  This  line  of  deposite  is  narrow, 
and  not  continuous,  but  varying  in  width,  where  it  is  found,  from  two  or  three  miles  to  ten 
or  twelve  at  a  few  points,  as  opposite  Utah  and  Great  Salt  lakes,  where  it  occupies  the  entire 
space  from  the  mountain  to  the  lake  shores.  It  is  to  this  narrow  belt  of  land  that  the  Mor 
mon  settlements  are  almost  exclusively  confined,  the  isolated  settlements  being  upon  similar 
deposites  in  small  valleys  at  the  base  of  other  mountains,  the  small  mountain  streams, 
upon  which  these  deposites  are  the  richest,  and  chiefly  exist,  being  used  for  irrigation. 
Respectable  crops  of  wheat  and  oats  are  produced,  and  barley  has  been  cultivated  to  some 
extent ;  but  corn  does  not  flourish  well.  The  grass  of  this  district  and  of  the  higher 
mountain  valleys  is  excellent;  and  potatoes  and  other  roots  are  produced  in  abundance,  and 
of  a  superior  quality." 

The  area  of  this  body  of  fertile  soil,  susceptible  of  irrigation  by  the  construction  of  suitable 
works,  is  estimated  by  Lieutenant  Beck  with  at  1,108  square  miles. 


ROUTE    NEAR   THE   FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY  SECOND    PARALLELS.  65 
The  areas  of  the  different  localities  are  estimated  as  follows : 

Square  miles. 

Eastern  shore  of  Great  Salt  lake,  from  Bear  river  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City 350 

Valley  of  the  Jordan  river 374 

Valley  of  Tuilla,  west  of  Oquirrh  mountains  and  east  of  Cedar  mountains 204 

Total  on  Great  Salt  lake  proper 928 

Upon  the  borders  of  Utah  lake 180 


Total  (as  above) f 1,108 


About  one-tenth  of  this  area  is  susceptible  of  irrigation  without  the  construction  of  costly 
works,  and  is  tilled  by  the  Mormons,  27,000  in  number,  who  eagerly  seek  for,  and  occupy, 
small  tracts  of  cultivable  soil,  if  sufficiently  large  to  support  a  few  families,  even  though  at 
great  distances  from  the  main  settlement. 

On  this  route,  as  on  others,  from  the  98°  or  99°  meridian  westward  to  the  western  slopes  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  a  distance  of  about  1,400  miles,  the  soil  is  generally  uncultivable,  the  excep 
tion  being  the  comparatively  limited  area  of  the  Mormon  settlement,  and  an  occasional  river- 
bottom  and  mountain-valley  of  small  extent. 

East  of  the  Rocky  mountains  the  plains  are  of  the  same  character  as  those  described  for 
the  route  of  the  38th  and  39th  parallels,  uncultivable  west  of  the  99th  meridian.  "West  of 
the  first  chain  of  these  mountains  the  plains  are  covered  with  artemisia,  rarely  furnishing 
any  grazing,  except  along  the  water-courses.  The  mountains,  however,  are  generally  covered, 
to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  with  grass — the  soil  of  those  north,  south,  and  west  of  the  route 
between  Fort  Bridger  and  the  head\vaters  of  the  Timpanogos  river  being  of  superior  quality. 

The  absence  of  the  geological  report  prevents  my  referring  to  the  geological  structure,  which 
together  with  the  climatological  conditions,  serve  to  corroborate  or  disprove  opinions  formed 
on  appearances  of  sterility  or  fertility. 

The  indications  given  of  the  character  of  both,  however,  from  the  report,  are  sufficient  to 
establish  the  general  correctness  of  the  opinions  expressed. 

ESTIMATE  OF   PROBABLE  COST. 

This  estimate  is  made  to  show  the  probable  relative  cost  of  this  route,  as  compared  with 
others.  That  portion  of  it  for  the  difficult  and  costly  section  of  the  Sacramento  river,  136  miles 
in  length,  and  for  the  canon  on  the  Timpanogos  river,  I  have  less  confidence  in  than  in  the  esti 
mates  generally.  The  estimate  includes  an  equipment  suitable  for  the  first  working  of  the 
road,  about  one-fifth  that  requisite  for  the  development  of  its  full  power. 

From  Council  Bluffs  to  the  first  gorge  of  the  Black  Hills,  520  miles,  25  per 
cent,  being  added  to  cost  at  eastern  prices  for  one-half  the  distance,  $35,000 
per  mile $18,200,000 

From  the  first  gorge  of  the  Black  Hills  to  the  summit  of  the  South  Pass,  291 
miles,  at  $75,000  per  mile,  50  per  cent,  having  been  added  to  cost  at  eastern 
prices , $21,825,000 

From  the  South  Pass  to  Fort  Bridger,  131  miles,  at  $50,000  per  mile,  50  per 

cent,  having  been  added  to  cost  at  eastern  prices $6,550,000 

From  Fort  Bridger  to  the  Pacific,  100  per  cent,  has  been  added  to  the  cost  at  east 
ern  prices. 

From  Fort  Bridger,  Green  River  valley,,  to  foot  of  Oquirrh  mountains,  south  end 
of  the  Great  Salt  lake,  deducting  ten  miles  for  the  length  of  the  caiion  on 

the  Timpanogos  river,  173  miles,  at  $60,000  per  mile $10,380,000 

9  a 


66  ROUTE    NEAR   THE    FORTY-FIRST    AND   FORTY  SECOND    PARALLELS. 

Ten  miles  of  canon  on  the  Timpanogos  river,  at  $150,000  per  mile $1,500,000 

From  the  Oquirrh  mountains,  Great  Salt  lake,  to  the  head  of  the  first  canon  on 
the  Sacramento  river,  deducting  ten  miles  of  the  length  of  the  pass  in  the 
eastern  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  seventeen  miles  of  the  length  of  the 
pass  in  the  western  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  547  miles,  at  $45,000  per 
mile $24,615,000 

Portion  of  the  pass  of  the  western  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  seventeen  miles, 
$100,000  per  mile $2,700,000 

From  the  head  of  the  first  canon  on  the  Sacramento  river  to  the  termination  of 
the  mountain  passage  of  the  river,  seventeen  miles  above  Fort  Reading,  135.5 
miles,  at  $150,000  per  mile $20,325,000 

Thence  to  Fort  Reading,  on  the  Sacramento  river,  seventeen  miles,  and  thence  to 
Benicia,  180  miles  ;  being  about  200  miles,  at  $50,000  per  mile $10,000,000 

Total , $116,095,000 

GENERAL   REMARKS. 

The  characteristic  features  of  this  route  consist  in  the  table-land  character  of  the  two  great 
mountain  systems  of  the  continent,  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada,  in  the 
latitude  where  crossed  by  it,  in  the  distance  from  the  eastern  foot  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to 
the  Great  Basin  (350  miles,)  being  the  least,  and  in  the  width  of  the  Great  Basin,  whose 
topographical  features  (those  technically  called  movements  of  ground)  are  so  highly  favorable 
to  the  construction  of  a  railroad,  being  here  the  greatest,  500  miles. 

These  elevated  table-lands  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada  bear  some  general 
resemblance,  in  their  topographical  features,  independent  of  vegetation,  to  one  of  the  ele 
mentary  or  small  basins  of  the  Great  Basin  ;  they  are  bounded  on  the  east  and  west  by  ridges, 
whose  crests  are  at  no  great  height  above  the  general  plateau,  but  several  thousand  feet  above 
the  plains  from  which  the  mountain  systems  rise.  In  the  Rocky  mountain  plateau,  this 
difference  of  elevation  is  upwards  of  4,000  feet  ;  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  upwards  of  3,000  feet 
on  the  east,  the  mountain  slopes  on  the  west  descending  to  nearly  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
Sierra  Nevada  assumes  this  table-land  character  again  in  latitude  35°. 

The  South  Pass  cannot  be  considered  favorable,  since  it  requires  expensive  construction 
for  nearly  300  miles.  The  route  by  the  Cheyenne  Pass  may  be  found  more  favorable,  but 
there  is  not  sufficient  known  of  it  to  determine  this. 

The  unfavorable  feature  of  the  passes  in  the  Wahsatch  mountains  consists  in  their  caiions, 
where  the  expense  of  construction  will  be  great. 

The  two  caiions  of  the  Sacramento,  fourteen  and  nine  miles  in  length,  and  the  very 
sinuous  course  of  the  river  for  the  space  of  ninety-six  miles.,  through  heavily  timbered  mount 
ains,  rising  precipitously  from  the  stream,  form  the  principal  characteristic  unfavorable 
features  of  the  route,  the  cost  of  constructing  a  railroad  along  which  cannot  be  properly 
estimated  until  minute  surveys  are  made. 

It  partakes  of  the  character  of  the  route  near  the  47th  parallel,  in  the  long  and  severe 
winters  on  the  plains  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  westward  to  the  Great  Basin. 

The  profiles  compiled  in  the  office  show  the  route,  near  the  41st  parallel,  by  the  South  fork 
of  the  Platte,  the  Cheyenne  and  Bridger's  Pass.  The  estimate  is  made  for  the  route  by  the 
South  Pass. 

SUPPLEMENT   TO    ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS;     PREPARED    BY    LIEU 
TENANT   G.    K.    WARREN,    TOPOGRAPHICAL   ENGINEERS. 

The  great  South  Pass,  one  of  the  key-points  of  this  route,  has  in  its  character  nothing  of 
a  mountain  gap,  being  merely  a  depression  in  the  line  of  intersection  of  two  gently  inclined 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY  FIR3T    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS.  67 

plains  sloping  east  and  west.  A  few  miles  to  the  north  of  it  commences  the  elevated  range 
called  the  Wind  River  chain,  (a  portion  of  the  Rocky  mountains,)  while  an  extensive  table 
land,  dotted  here  and  there  with  isolated  hills,  stretches  away  to  the  south.  This  elevated 
plateau  is  in  latitude  42°  north,  and,  viewed  as  a  whole,  may  he  said  to  extend  east  and  west 
from  the  Black  Hills  to  the  Bear  mountains ;  and  from  the  Wind  River  mountains  and 
Black  Hills  in  the  north,  to  the  Park  and  Uinta  mountains  in  the  south,  having  a  length  from 
east  to  west  of  about  290  miles,  and  breadth  north  and  south  of  100  miles.  Its  general  eleva 
tion  is  about  7,500  feet,  though  in  portions  it  has  been  reduced  to  G,000  feet  by  the  action  of 
streams. 

The  direction  taken  by  the  waters  of  its  surface,  divide  this  great  plateau  into  three  dis 
tinct  parts, — one  drained  by  the  Laramie  river,  one  by  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte  and 
Sweet  Water  river,  and  the  other  by  the  Green  river  and  other  branches  of  the  great  Colorado 
of  the  west.  The  divides  between  each  of  these  portions  arc  slight,  and  such,  perhaps,  as 
have  been  produced  by  the  action  of  the  waters  alone.  'Small  lake  basins  exist  in  several 
parts,  which  contain  only  pools  of  brackish  water,  proving  in  themselves  the  dryness  of  the 
climate,  since  the  accumulated  waters  have  never  been  sufficient  to  force  an  outlet  or  form  a 
continuous  lake.  The  waters  that  traverse  the  other  portions  come  mainly  from  the  mountains. 

The  amount  of  snow  that  falls  is  not  exactly  known,  but  it  must  be  small ;  and  there  is  reason 
to  think  that,  probably,  the  accumulations  of  the  winter  will  rarely  exceed  one  foot  in  depth. 

During  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  (the  spring,)  parts  of  this  plateau  are  well  watered,  and 
abound  with  buffalo  and  other  game.  Captain  Stansbury  saw  abundant  signs  of  the  buffalo 
having  been  in  immense  numbers  just  west  of  Bridger's  Pass;  but  at  the  time,  (September,) 
they  had  all  disappeared  in  search  of  water.  He  also  encountered  slight  rains  and  fog  in  this 
vicinity ;  but  the  character  of  the  soil  was  such  as  promised  fertility,  had  there  been  a  suf 
ficiency  of  moisture,  the  absence  of  which  is  the  curse  of  all  this  region.  Excepting  the 
immediate  banks  of  the  streams,  some  of  which  produce  grass  and  trees  of  cotton-wood,  willow, 
and  aspen,  it  is  one  vast  sage  or  artemisia  desert.  All  reports  concur  in  giving  it  this  char 
acter. 

The  rocks  and  soil  in  the  western  part  are  soft  and  easily  crumbled,  and,  under  the  action  of 
its  torrent-like  streams  during  spring  freshets,  are  much  abraded  and  torn  away ;  and  the 
debris  scattered  over  the  bottoms  have,  in  many  cases,  destroyed  every  particle  of  A'egetation, 
and  reduced  these  to  the  most  perfect  desolation. 

The  valley  of  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte  is  narrow  and  well  timbered  with  magnificent 
cotton-wood^  but  west  of  this  Captain  Stansbury  says  he  saw  nothing  deserving  the  name  of 
tree,  only  a  few  stunted  cedars  being  found  between  the  Platte  and  Green  rivers,  175  miles. 

The  Wind  River  mountains  are  clothed  with  excellent  pine  and  other  trees,  but  the  imme 
diate  hills  on  either  side  of  the  Sweet  Water  are  naked.  Wood  is  found  in  the  Black  Hills 
and  Park  mountains,  (of  the  amount  I  cannot  speak  positively,)  and  also  in  the  Bear,  Wah- 
satch,  and  Uinta  mountains. 

Coal  is  found  in  quantity  in  various  localities  on  branches  of  Green  river ;  it  is  bituminous, 
and  thought  to  belong  to  the  oolitic  period.*  Captain  Stansbury  found  seams  of  it  ten  feet  in 
thickness,  and  he  says  the  quantity  is,  apparently,  unlimited.  We  have  to  regret,  that  after  all 
the  explorations  in  this  belt  of  country,  and  after  having  so  long  been  a  highway  to  Oregon, 
Salt  lake,  and  California,  little  is  positively  known  about  its  geology. 

Of  the  great  section  of  country  lying  east  of  the  extended  plateau  of  which  we  have  been 
speaking,  and  which,  beginning  at  the  foot  of  the  Black  Hills  at  an  elevation  of  about  5,000 
feet,  reaches  to  the  Mississippi,  there  is  little  to  be  said  which  is  peculiar  to  the  route  under 
consideration.  It  has  the  same  general  features  as  in  the  other  latitudes.  In  the  eastern 
part  it  is  a  beautiful  and  fertile  prairie,  with  wood  upon  the  banks  oi  the  streams,  and  coal 

*  See  remarks  of  Professor  James  Hall,  attached  to  Fremont's  report,  1842-'3-'4,  p.  298. 


68  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY  SECOND   PARALLELS. 

bencatli  its  surface.  As  we  go  west  it  loses  this  character,  and  about  the  99th  and  100th 
meridians  becomes,  for  the  most  part,  dry  and  almost  barren.  The  islands  of  the  Platte  are 
well  wooded  as  far  west  as  the  99th  meridian.  From  the  100th  meridian  to  the  base  of  the 
Black  Hills,  it  is  in  summer  hot  and  arid,  and  the  summer  winds,  in  many  places,  as  they  come 
from  the  hills,  seem  to  have  just  left  a  furnace.  Wood  and  grass  in  this  portion  (250  miles) 
are  very  scarce. 

The  favorite  feature  of  the  great  section  east  of  the  mountains  is  the  almost  direct  flow  of  the 
Platte  and  its  branches  from  west  to  east,  enabling  us  to  obtain  a  location  along  the  foot  of  the 
bluffs,  which  will  give  for  the  most  a  continuously  ascending  grade,  and  avoid  the  rolling  coun 
try.  Wood,  water,  and  grass  will  also  be  found  here  more  abundant  than  on  the  divides 
between  the  streams.  This  location,  however,  will  no  doubt  involve  much  cutting  and  em 
bankment,  with  frequent  culverts. 

There  are  tww  routes  proposed  for  crossing  the  great  plateau  west  of  the  Black  Hills :  one 
by  the  South  Pass,  in  latitude  42°  20',  longitude  113°;  and  the  other  by  Bridger's  Pass,  in 
latitude  41°  13',  longitude  110°  48'.  If  we  begin  at  Council  Bluffs,  a  route  through  either 
pass  would  have  a  common  location  in  the  valley  of  the  Platte,  to  the  junction  of  the  North 
and  South  forks.  Here  they  would  separate;  the  one  by  the  South  Pass  taking  the  North  fork 
and  Sweet  Water,  and  the  one  by  Bridger's  Pass  taking  the  South  fork  and  Lodge  Pole  creek. 
The  elevation  at  Council  Bluffs  is  1,300  feet;  at  the  junction  of  the  forks  of  the  Platte,  2,900 
feet ;  distance,  300  miles ;  average  grade,  2  feet  per  mile. 

As  regards  a  connexion  with  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  the  latter  would  be  the  more  direct ;  but 
it  is  still  a  question  as  to  which  would  be  the  better  route  for  a  railroad,  though  Captain  Stans- 
bury,  who  was  over  both,  is  positive  in  his  preference  for  Bridger's  Pass.  Unfortunately  he 
had  no  barometer  or  means  of  measuring  elevations,  and  much  is  left  to  be  inferred.  The  fol 
lowing  facts  concerning  the  two  routes  are  extracted  from  Fremont's  and  Stansbury's  reports  : 

By  the  South  Pass. — The  Platte  river,  30  miles  above  Fort  Laramie,  and  220  miles  above 
the  junction  of  the  forks,  comes  through  a  gorge  with  vertical  walls,  200  to  400  feet  high, 
formed  by  spurs  from  the  Black  Hills,  and  changes  its  character  from  a  mountain  stream  to 
a  river  of  the  plains.  Thence  to  the  Ked  Buttes,  117  miles,  there  are  numerous  streams 
coming  into  the  Platte  from  the  Black  Hills,  which  have  made  deep  cuts  in  the  earth  near 
their  mouths.  The  railroad  would  probably,  through  this  portion,  keep  near  the  present 
wagon-road  some  miles  to  the  south  of  the  Platte,  where  the  greatest  obstruction  Fremont 
found  to  his  wagons  was  the  strong  growth  of  artemisia.  A  road  along  this  section  would  be 
expensive,  though  the  grades  would  probably  not  be  difficult.  At  the  gorge  of  the  Red  Buttes 
"the  river  is  not  much  pent  up,  there  being  a  bank  of  considerable  though  variable  breadth 
on  either  side."  A  road  could  be  located  through  this.  Thence  to  the  Hot  Spring  Gate,  34 
miles,  is  an  open  valley.  Above  this  point,  the  Platte  is  "exceedingly  rugged  and  walled  in 
by  canons."  The  road  just  below  the  Hot  Spring  Gate  should  turn  off  to  the  north,  up  the 
sandy  bed  of  a  dry  creek  to  the  summit  of  the  Hills,  the  peaks  of  which  are  only  800  feet 
above  the  Platte;  grade,  133  feet  per  mile  for  6  miles.  Then  a  gradual  slope,  56  feet  per 
mile,  for  10  miles,  conducts  to  the  Sweet  Water,  at  an  elevation  of  about  5,640  feet;  distance 
from  Red  Buttes,  50  miles.  The  Sweet  Water  occasionally  cuts  through  spurs,  making  canons, 
(that  of  the  Devil's  Gate  being  through  granite;)  but  generally  it  is  represented  as  rather 
open,  and  the  immediate  bottoms  abound  in  soft  grasses.  The  hills  on  either  side  are  "rocky 
and  bare."  At  one  of  the  head-branches  of  the  Sweet  Water  we  reach  the  South  Pass,  (eleva 
tion  7, 490  feet,)  124  miles  from  where  we  first  struck  the  Sweet  Water;  average  grade  for 
the  first  12  miles  east  of  the  summit,  22.5  feet,  and  the  remaining  112  miles  14.7  feet  per 
mile.  The  grades  between  these  points  would  probably  be  somewhat  undulating,  but  the 
present  surveys  do  not  afford  the  means  of  judging  their  extent.  From  the  Red  Buttes  to 
the  ^South  Pass  would  be  an  expensive  road,  but  it  does  not  involve  any  difficult  problem  of 
engineering.  Little  need  be  apprehended  from  snows.  The  necessary  fuel  for  working-parties 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS,  69 

could  no  doubt  be  obtained  from  the  Platte,  and  ties  from  the  Wind  River  chain,  and  excellent 
building-stone  on  the  Sweet  Water. 

The  sum  of  the  known  ascents  to  be  overcome  from  Council  Bluffs  to  the  South  Pass  is  6,650 
feet,  including  460  feet  at  the  Hot  Spring  Grate,  to  avoid  which  it  was  gained  and  lost. 

The  Bear  River  mountains,  lying  due  west  from  the  South  Pass,  forbid  any  direct  passage 
in  that  direction.  As  yet,  we  know  of  no  practicable  way  of  reaching  Salt  lake  but  by  Fort 
Bridger,  through  the  pass  explored  by  Lieut.  Beckwith.  This  would  carry  us  down  the 
Sandy  creek,  a  tributary  of  Green  river,  with  coal  in  its  banks,  to  the  crossing  of  the  latter 
stream  :  elevation  6,238  feet ;  distance  81  miles  ;  average  grade  for  the  first  four  miles  west  of 
the  South  Pass,  70  feet;  and  for  the  remaining  77,  13  feet  per  mile.  The  width  of  Green 
river  is  here  400  feet,  and  the  ford  excellent,  (Aug.  16,  1843.)  No  doubt  exists  as  to  the 
practicability  of  connecting  with  Lieut.  Beckwith' s  survey  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Bridger, 
elevation  7, 254  feet;  distance  from  Green  river  50  miles:  we  thus  have,  from  Council  Bluffs 
to  Fort  Bridger,  by  the  South  Pass  route,  a  total  of  ascents  and  descents  of  9,386  feet,  and  a 
total  distance  of  943  miles. 

By  Bridger' s  Pass. — This  proposed  route  is  not  so  well  known  as  the  other.  It  keeps  the 
South  fork  of  the  Platte  (100  miles)  to  the  mouth  of  Lodge  Pole  creek,  which  it  is  then  pro 
posed  to  take.  This  creek  has  never  been  continuously  explored.  Fremont  crossed  it  near  its 
mouth,  and  represents  it  as  a  clear,  handsome  stream,  running  through  a  broad  valley,  having 
a  uniform  width  of  22  feet  and  depth  of  6  inches,  (July  6,  1842,)  a  few  green  willows  on  its 
banks  forming  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  surrounding  barrenness.  The  timber  appeared  to  have 
been  formerly  more  abundant.  He  crossed  this  creek  again,  as  near  as  he  could  ascertain  from 
his  "  uncertain  means  of  information/'  about  120  miles  from  its  mouth,  the  elevation  being 
about  4,800  feet :  the  banks  were  here  about  700.  feet  above  the  stream  ;  average  slope  about 
four  feet  per  mile. 

From  this  point  to  the  Cheyenne  Pass,  in  the  Black  Hills,  is  about  60  miles.  The  Black 
Hills  act  here  much  like  the  sustaining  walls  of  a  terrace,  the  plain  at  their  east  base  being 
much  lower  than  at  the  west.  Capt.  Stansbury  says,  speaking  of  this  pass,  that  his  "examina 
tions  fully  demonstrate  the  existence  of  a  route  through  the  'Black  Hills'  not  only  practicable, 
but  free  from  any  obstructions  involving,  in  their  removal,  great  or  unusual  expenditure." 

The  elevation  of  the  east  base  of  the  mountains  must  be  about  5,000  feet ;  the  elevation  of 
Laramie  plain  is  7,500  feet ;  the  most  favorable  supposition  is,  that  the  pass  is  no  higher.  Not 
knowing  in  what  distance  this  elevation  is  gained,  it  is  impossible  to  speak  of  the  grades.  In 
crossing  the  divide  between  Laramie  and  Medicine  Bow  rivers,  the  elevation  is  given  by  Fremont 
at  7,994  feet ;  but  there  is  such  a  confusion  between  Fremont's  and  Stansbury's  maps,  that 
its  distance  from  the  Cheyenne  Pass  cannot  be  ascertained.  At  the  crossing,  the  North  fork  of 
the  Platte  has  a  width  of  160  feet,  depth  2  feet,  (Sept.  6,  1850  ;)  elevation,  by  Fremont,  6,820  ; 
distance  from  Cheyenne  Pass,  by  Stansbury,  102  miles;  thence  to  the  summit  of  Bridger's  Pass 
30  miles.  Capt.  S.  says  the  slope  either  way  from  the  summit  is  so  gentle  as  scarcely  to  be 
perceptible.  In  the  table  of  distances  we  find  it  stated,  that  "the  champaign  country  continues 
north  to  the  Wind  River  mountains,  and  can  be  crossed  in  many  places,  the  choice  being 
determined  by  considerations  of  fuel  and  water." 

It  is  altogether  probable  this  pass  does  not  differ  much  in  elevation  from  the  South  Pass, 
and  may  be  supposed  the  same,  viz  :  7,490  feet. 

From  the  summit  west  the  line  descends  Muddy  creek  a  few  miles,  then  crosses  a  rolling 
divide,  (height  not  known,)  between  it  and  Bitter  creek,  both  tributaries  of  Green  river,  and 
down  the  latter  to  Green  river,  elevation  about  6,200  feet ;  distance  from  Bridger's  Pass  135 
miles  ;  (the  Green  river  is  here  800  feet  wide  ;  the  deepest  water  found,  September  13,  was 
3  feet,  but  in  high  stages  it  is  a  formidable  stream,  and  will  have  to  be  ferried;)  thence  to 
Fort  Bridger,  50  miles.  One  important  feature  of  this  route,  from  the  Cheyenne  Pass  to 


70  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY  FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS. 

Bridger's  Fort,  is  the  small  amount  of  rock-cutting,  and  even  that  in  very  soft  material.  It, 
however,  crosses  ground  much  cut  up  by  ravines  and  gullies,  and  many  places  easily  torn  up 
by  the  torrents,  probably  requiring  great  caution  in  location  and  much  masonry,  which  the 
absence  of  good  building-stone  would  render  exceedingly  expensive.  An  extensive  embank 
ment  will  be  required  on  Muddy  creek.  It  is  probably  very  deficient  in  wood,  for  nowhere 
contiguous  to  it  are  large  supplies  reported  to  exist.  Coal  is  abundant  on  the  Green  River 
section.  From  Council  Bluffs  to  Fort  Bridger,  by  this  route,  is  897  miles.  If  my  reasoning 
as  to  elevations  is  correct,  the  sums  of  the  ascents  and  descents  arc  at  least  12,082  feet.  Apply 
ing  the  equation  of  grade,  this  would  give  an  increased  length  of  229  miles — making  the  total 
equivalent  horizontal  distance  1,126  miles. 

For  the  route  by  the  South  Pass  we  have,  in  the  same  way,  an  increased  length  of  178 
miles,  and  an  equivalent  horizontal  line  1,120  miles.  I  do  not  think  it  possible  to  make  a 
correct  comparison  as  to  cost  of  constructing  the  two  routes.  It  could  only  be  done  after  careful 
examination  on  the  ground  with  that  object  in  view. 

Should  any  route  to  Oregon  be  found  practicable,  leading  along  the  foot  of  the  Wind 
River  mountains  up  the  head-streams  of  Green  river,  and  across  the  mountains  between  them 
and  the  headwaters  of  the  Snake  or  Lewis  river,  the  South  Pass  would  gain  additional 
importance  as  a  point  from  which  branches  could  be  sent  both  to  Salt  lake  and  California,  and 
to  the  Columbia. 

There  are  reasons  to  believe  that  this  latter  route  may  be  practicable ;  and  it  is,  at  least,  wor 
thy  of  a  careful  examination.  The  straight  line  from  the  South  Pass  to  Fort  Hall  is  175 
miles,  while  by  the  route  surveyed  by  Fremont  it  is  444  miles,  being  the  one  usually  trav 
elled  by  emigrants.  The  known  abundance  of  grass  and  water  in  the  beautiful  valley  of  Bear 
river  has  justified  this  great  detour,  to  enjoy  its  plenty  and  repose,  recruit  the  energies 
exhausted  by  the  long  journey  already  performed,  and  prepare  for  the  desert  of  the  Snake  River 
valley.  It  is  said  by  Mr.  Lander,  that  the  more  direct  northern  route  to  Oregon  is  about  to 
be  opened  for  emigrants.  If  a  feasible  route  be  found  between  the  headwaters  of  Green  and 
Snake  rivers,  the  exploration  should  be  continued  to  Wallah- Wallah,  as  the  passage  of  the  Blue 
mountains  is  not  yet  demonstrated  to  be  wholly  practicable,  either  by  the  way  of  the  Grande 
Ronde  or  the  canons  of  Snake  river.  The  profiles  will  show  the  present  emigrant  route  to 
Oregon,  as  surveyed  by  Fremont,  and  give  all  the  facts  necessary  to  be  considered.  Enough 
is  there  shown  to  demonstrate  its  impracticability  for  a  railroad.  The  pass  over  the  Bear 
River  mountains  might,  however,  be  avoided  by  going  south  of  Fort  Bridger. 


CIIAPTERIII. 

ROUTE   NEAR  THE  THIRTY-EIGHTH  AND  THIRTY-NINTH  PARALLELS  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE. 

The  general  consideration  that  determined  the  position  of  the  route  to  be  examined  near 
the  38th  and  39th  parallels  of  latitude,  was  its  central  position  geographically — it  being  about 
midway  between  the  northern  and  southern  boundary  lines  of  the  United  States — which  is 
likewise  the  position,  nearly,  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  the  two  termini  of  the  route,  St.  Louis 
and  San  Francisco,  being  respectively  in  latitudes  39°  and  38°,  nearly. 

A  route  near  these  parallels  would  probably  give  the  shortest  road  from  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco  to  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Mississippi. 

But,  since  the  only  passes  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  practicable  for  a  railroad,  yet  made  known, 
are  found  in  latitudes  41°  and  35°,  this  advantage  of  centrality  of  position  is  lost  upon  entering 
the  Great  Basin,  in  longitude  112°  or  113°. 

Neither  do  the  features  of  the  country,  from  and  including  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Great 
Basin,  favor  the  construction  of  a  railroad  along  this  line,  recommended  by  considerations 
connected  with  its  central  geographical  position,  for  the  elevation  of  the  two  passes  through 
the  Rocky  mountains,  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  and  Coo-che-to-pa,  9,200  feet  and  10, 000  feet,  are  the 
highest  known  practicable  for  a  railroad,  exceeding  by  4,000  feet  and  5,000  feet  the  highest 
mountain  pass  on  the  route  near  the  32d  parallel,  and  by  3,000  feet  and  4,000  feet  the  elevation 
of  the  passes  on  the  route  near  the  47th  parallel ;  and  from  the  Rocky  mountains  westward  to 
the  Great  Basin,  500  miles,  the  country  is  so  broken,  and  the  difficulties  of  construction  so 
great,  and  the  expense  would  be  so  enormous,  that  the  building  of  a  railroad  over  this  portion 
may  be  pronounced  impracticable. 

In  neither  soil,  climate,  productions,  nor  population,  nor  from  any  other  cause,  does  it 
possess  advantages  superior  toother  routes,  favoring  the  construction  and  working  of  a  railroad. 

The  concluding  chapter  of  Lieutenant  Beck  with 's  report  upon  the  route  from  Westport  to 
Sevier  lake  recapitulates  so  clearly  and  forcibly  the  characteristics  of  the  country  through 
which  it  passes,  the  nature  of  the  soil,  climate,  and  topographical  features,  the  amount  and 
quality  of  timber,  fuel,  stone,  &c.,  with  their  bearing  upon  the  construction  and  working  of  a 
railroad,  that  nothing  remains  to  be  added  to  it. 

It  appears  that  from  the  western  frontier  of  the  State  of  Missouri  to  the  Sangre  de  Christo 
Pass,  650  miles,  no  timber  suitable  for  railroad  purposes  will  be  found  upon  the  route  upon 
which  reliance  can  be  placed ;  that  from  the  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass  to  the  Great  Basin,  more  than 
500  miles,  there  is  no  growth  of  timber  oa  the  route,  and  that  such  as  exists  in  the  mountains 
north  and  south  of  the  line  is  too  difficult  of  access  to  be  available ;  nor  is  any  to  be  found  in 
the  Great  Basin  on  the  route  as  far  as  followed  towards  Sevier  lake,  the  nearest  known  supplies 
being  in  the  mountains  to  the  north,  in  latitude  40°  or  41°.  With  building  stone  generally, 
it  is,  like  the  other  routes,  sufficiently  well  supplied.  Of  water,  there  is  a  sufficient  supply 
on  the  whole  route,  except  between  Grand  and  Green  rivers,  a  distance  of  70  miles,  over  which 
at  certain  periods  of  the  year  it  is  probable  little  or  none  can  be  obtained. 

The  soil  west  of  the  meridian  of  99°  is,  under  the  present  meteorological  conditions,  unculti- 
vable,  except  in  limited  portions  of  river  bottoms  and  small  mountain  valleys;  these  latter, 
from  their  great  elevation,  being  better  adapted  to  grazing  than  agricultural  purposes.  This 
description  is  completely  in  accordance  with  the  geological  formation  and  meteorological  con- 


72  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-EIGHTH    AND    THIRTY-NINTH    PARALLELS. 

dition,  the  former  from  the  meridian  of  99°  west  being  apparently  tertiary,  excepting  in  the 
high  mountain  passes. 

The  great  coal  field  of  Missouri  lies  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  road,  and  could  supply 
fuel  on  the  route  as  far  as  the  Rocky  mountains — and  still  further  west,  should  the  coal  for 
mations  on  Grand  river  not  yield  an  abundant  supply.  The  existence  of  a  seam  one  foot 
thick,  though  not  sufficient  for  profitable  working,  is  a  good  indication  that  others  accompany 
it  that  would  admit  of  mining. 

In  regard  to  grade  and  construction,  it  would  appear  that  the  Sangre  do  Cristo  and 
Coo-che-to-pa  passes  are  practicable;  the  latter  with  a  tunnel  nearly  two  miles  long;  their  great 
est  grades  are  103  and  124  feet  per  mile;  their  elevations  are  9,200  and  10,000  feet  above  the 
sea,  the  general  elevation  of  the  mountain  chains  being  2,000  and  2,500  feet  higher  than  this. 
The  construction  of  the  road  through  the  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass  and  the  western  approach 
to  it  would  be  costly  under  favorable  circumstances  of  population,  &c.,  not  only  on  account  of 
the  tunnel,  but  of  the  numerous  ravines  that  are  crossed  west  of  the  pass,  and  the  canon  that 
follows. 

From  the  head  of  the  canon  on  Grand  river,  not  far  below  the  mouth  of  Coo-che-to-pa  creek, 
to  the  Uncompahgra  river,  a  distance  of  70  miles,  the  ground  is  cut  up  with  deep,  wide, 
precipitous  ravines,  (the  largest  several  hundred  feet  deep,)  over  which  the  construction  of  a 
railroad  is  utterly  impracticable.  These  ravines  cannot  be  turned  near  the  mountains  with 
out  encountering  similar  difficulties,  and  at  a  cost  greater  than  that  of  a  route  along  the  river. 
Thus  the  route  is  forced  upon  Grand  river,  and  along  its  canon,  60  miles  in  length,  broken 
and  interrupted  by  the  deep  ravines  already  mentioned,  and  numerous  smaller  gulleys.  The 
road-way  throughout  the  greater  part  of  this  distance  must  be  blasted  out  of  solid  rock,  and  these 
wide  ravines,  from  100  to  200  feet  deep,  where  they  cut  through  the  canon,  crossed  by  via 
ducts  or  filling.  Then  follow  50  miles  to  the  mouth  of  Blue  river,  the  construction  still  of  a 
difficult  and  costly  character  from  the  canons  of  the  river  and  broken  nature  of  the  ground. 
From  Blue  to  Green  river  is  100  miles,  over  which  the  road  will  require  numerous  bridges  and 
culverts,  and  a  costly  road-bed  foundation  of  broken  stone  or  piling  over  a  clayey  soil,  in 
which,  in  wet  weather,  animals  sink  half-leg  deep.  From  Green  river  to  the  Wahsatch  Pass, 
about  80  miles,  the  construction  would  still  be  of  a  costly  character,  the  country  being  of  the 
same  ravine  and  chasm-like  nature  as  that  between  the  mouth  of  Coo-che-to-pa  creek  and 
Uncompahgra  river,  though  on  a  smaller  scale.  Next  follows  the  Wahsatch  Pass,  the  work 
in  which  is  difficult  and  expensive;  the  greatest  grade  is  131  feet  per  mile;  a  tunnel  not  quite 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  long  is  requisite;  and  finally  a  canon  16  miles  long  on  Salt  creek,  the 
walls  of  which  are  frequently  broken  by  lateral  streams,  gives  the  only  route  along  which  the 
road  can  be  brought,  by  cutting  in  solid  rock  at  very  great  expense. 

The  difficulties  of  engineering,  and  the  cost  of  construction  of  this  portion  of  the  route  from 
the  Coochetopa  Pass  to  Sevier  river,  in  the  Great  Basin,  a  distance  of  about  500  miles,  would 
be  so  great  that  it  may  be  pronounced  impracticable ;  and  it  is  evident,  from  the  report  of  Lieu 
tenant  Beckwith,  that,  to  use  his  own  language,  "no  other  line  exists  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  this  worthy  of  any  attention  in  connexion  with  the  construction  of  a  railroad  from  the  Mis 
sissippi  river  to  the  Great  Basin." 

It  is  unnecessary,  therefore,  to  consider  the  route  further,  or  to  enter  into  any  discussion 
connected  with  the  probable  practicability  and  cost  of  constructing  and  working  a  railroad 
over  other  portions  of  the  route,  where  not  one  counterbalancing  advantage  is  to  be  found  to 
compensate,  in  any  degree,  for  the  enormous  cost  of  that  under  consideration. 

Laying  aside  the  utter  impracticability  of  this  route,  the  following  considerations  will  show 
its  disadvantages  as  regards  expenses  of  working,  supposing  it  constructed. 

From  Westport  to  the  west  base  of  the  Un-kuk-oo-ap  mountains  is  1,323  miles;  sum  of 
ascents,  23,190  feet;  of  descents,  19,050  feet;  length  of  equivalent  horizontal  line  for  the  route, 
2,123  miles. 


ROUTE   NEAR   THE    THIRTY-EIGHTH    AND    THIRTY-NINTH    PARALLELS.  78 

Of  the  direct  route  from  the  point  at  the  western  base  of  the  Un-kuk-oo-ap  mountains — ele 
vation  5,131  feet,  distance  from  Westport  1,323  miles,  where  the  survey  under  Captain 
Gunnison  terminated — to  the  Tay-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  there  is  no  positive  information  or  survey. 
Colonel  Fremont  says,,  page  270  of  his  report  for  1842,  '43,  '44,  that  from  the  time  he  descended 
from  Walker's  Pass  and  began  "to  skirt"  the  desert,  till  he  reached  the  vegas  of  Santa  Clara, 
uhe  had  travelled  550  miles,  occupying  27  days  in  that  inhospitable  region;"  and  that  "in 
passing  before  the  great  caravan,  he  had  the  advantage  of  finding  more  grass,"  &c.  And  again, 
he  speaks  of  the  journey  as  "a  month's  suffering  in  the  hot  and  sterile  desert."  This,  in 
connexion  with  Colonel  Fremont's  description  of  other  parts  of  the  Great  Basin,  gives  every 
reason  to  believe  that  from  Sevier  lake  to  the  Tay-ee-chay-pah  Pass  it  is,  for  the  most  part,  a 
desert  of  the  same  general  character  as  other  portions  of  the  Great  Basin.  Supposing  the 
route  to  be  a  straight  line,  with  uniform  descent  from  the  Un-kuk-oo-ap  mountains  to  the 
entrance  of  the  Tay-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  in  latitude  35°  7',  (no  pass  being  known  to  be  practicable 
to  the  north  of  it,  in  this  portion  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,)  the  distance  will  be  430  miles,  and 
the  descent  1,830  feet;  the  equated  horizontal  distance,  464  miles. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  Tay-ee-chay-pah  Pass  to  San  Francisco  is  326  miles ;  sum  of 
ascents,  1,308  feet;  sum  of  descents,  4,608  feet;  equated  length,  438  miles.  Adding  these 
together  with  the  equated  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  to  the  west  base  of  Un- 
kuk-oo-ap  mountains,  we  have  the  total  equated  distance  from  Westport  to  San  Francisco — 
3,025  miles;  the  length  of  the  straight  horizontal  line,  which  supposes  no  obstacle  to  be 
avoided,  being  only  1,500  miles. 

The  straight  line  from  St.  Louis  to  San  Francisco  is  1,740  miles  long;  it  crosses  the  Rocky 
mountains  in  about  latitude  39°  13',  the  Wahsatch  in  about  latitude  39°,  the  Sierra  Nevada  in 
about  latitude  38°  6' ;  it  is  110  miles  north  of  the  Sandy  Hill  Pass,  75  miles  north  of  Coo-che-to-pa, 
and  about  coincides  with  the  north  bend  of  Grand  river ;  is  20  miles  north  of  the  Wahsatch 
Gap,  and  225  miles  north  of  Tay-ee-chay-pah  Pass. 

From  the  Sevier  river  a  practicable  connection  can  be  made  with  the  route  surveyed  by 
Lieut.  Beckwith,  near  the  forty-first  parallel,  through  the  Great  Basin. 

The  distance  from  Sevier  river,  at  the  crossing  of  the  Mormon  road  to  Salt  lake,  is  120 
miles,  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  1,600  feet,  and  equated  distance  150  miles  ;  thence  to 
Benicia  is  872  miles,  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  15,200  feet,  and  equated  distance  1,160 
miles  ;  from  Westport  to  Sevier  river  1,298  miles,  the  sum  of  the  ascents  and  descents  are 
39,714  feet,  and  equated  distance  2,050  miles.  Taking  the  sum  of  these  three  portions,  we 
have  from  Westport  to  Benicia,  via  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass,  Great  Salt  lake,  and  Madelin  Pass, 
a  distance  of  2,290  miles,  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  of  56,514  feet,  and  an  equated  distance 
of  3,360  miles. 

NOTE. — This  line  could,  perhaps,  be  considerably  shortened  by  taking  a  direct  route  from  Sevier  river  to  the  pass  of  the 
Humboldt  mountains;  but  it  has  not  been  explored.  The  straight-line  distance  between  these  points  is  200  miles,  while 
by  the  route  surveyed  it  is  280  miles. 

10a 


CHAPTER    IV. 

ROUTE  NEAR  THE  THIRTY-FIFTH  PARALLEL  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE. 

The  report  of  Lieut.  Whipple  upon  the  route  explored  l>y  him,  near  the  thirty-fifth  parallel 
of  latitude  with  its  accompanying  sub-reports,  being  brief,  it  is  unnecessary  to  recapitulate  the 
details  given  in  them.  Some  remarks  upon  the  general  direction  of  the  route,  and  upon  the 
points  which  characterize  it,  and  in  which  it  differs  from  that  of  the  thirty-second  parallel,  may 
be  necessary. 

From  the  general  description  that  follows,  it  will  he  seen  that  the  features  of  the  ground 
which  have  determined  the  direction  of  the  route  are  the  extension  west  and  east  of  the  inter 
locking  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Rio  Grande,  and  the  Colorado  of  the  West. 

The  route  may  be  said  to  commence  at  Fort  Smith,  on  the  Arkansas,  in  about  longitude  94° 
26',  latitude  35°  23' ;  elevation  above  the  sea  4P>0  feet ;  the  connexions  of  which  point  with 
Little  Rock,  Memphis,  St.  Louis,  and  other  centres  of  trade,  are  clearly  stated.  From  Little 
Rock  to  the  Antelope  Hills,  on  the  Canadian,  elevation  2,100  feet,  in  about  longitude  100°, 
a  distance  of  near  400  miles,  the  route  may  follow  either  the  valleys  of  the  Arkansas  and 
Canadian,  or  a  shorter  line,  perhaps,  but  over  more  broken  ground  south  of  the  Canadian — 
this  latter  route  branching  again  and  following  either  the  valley  of  the  Washita,  or  the  divid 
ing  ridge  between  it  and  the  Canadian. 

From  the  Antelope  Hills  the  route  continues  along  the  bottom  of  the  Canadian,  on  the  right 
bank,  to  the  mouth  of  Tecumcari  creek,  about  250  miles,  and  ascends  by  the  valley  of  Tecum- 
cari,  or  by  that  of  Pajarito  creek,  to  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Canadian  and  the  Pecos 
rivers,  elevation  about  5,543  feet,  and  enters  the  valley  of  the  latter.  It  follows  this  valley 
until,  by  means  of  a  tributary,  it  rises  to  the  high  table-land,  or  basin,  lying  east  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  elevation  about  7,000  feet,  crosses  the  elevated  Salinas  basin,  30  miles  wide, 
the  lowest  point  being  6,471  feet,  and  gains  the  divide  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  elevation 
about  7,000  feet ;  from  which  point  it  descends  to  Albuquerque,  or  Isleta,  on  the  Rio  Grande, 
through  the  San  Pedro  Pass  ;  or  it  may  descend  to  the  Rio  Grande  by  the  valley  of  the 
Galisteo  river,  north  of  Sandia  mountain.  A  third  route  is  indicated  along  the  valley  of  the 
Pecos  to  its  headwaters  ;  thence  to  an  affluent  of  the  Galisteo ;  and  thence,  as  before,  to  the  Rio 
Grande. 

Isleta,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  is  854  miles  from  Fort  Smith,  and  4,945  feet  above  the  sea. 

Crossing  the  ridge  separating  the  Rio  Grande  from  the  Puerco,  the  route  follows  the  valley 
of  its  tributary,  the  San  Jose,  to  one  of  its  sources  in  a  pass  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  called  the 
Camino  del  Obispo.  At  the  summit  (elevation  8,250  feet)  a  tunnel  three-fourths  of  a  mile  long, 
at  an  elevation  not  less  than  8,000  feet,  is  required,  when  the  descent  is  made  to  the  Zuiii  river 
and  near  the  Pueblo  of  Zufii ;  the  route  then  crosses  over  undulating  ground  to  the  Puerco  of 
the  West,  at  the  Navajo  spring.  Another  route  icross  the  Sierra  Madre,  about  20  miles  further 
north,  was  examined  by  Mr.  Campbell,  which  is,  apparently,  far  more  favorable.  The  profile 
is  not  from  reliable  instrumental  examination.  The  height  of  the  summit  is  about  7,750  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  Puerco  of  the  West  heads  in  this  pass,  and  the  route  follows  the  valley  of 
this  stream  to  its  junction  with  the  Colorado  Chiquito,  then  the  valley  of  that  stream  to  the 
foot  of  the  southeastern  slopes  of  the  San  Francisco  mountains,  (elevation  4, 775  feet;)  distance 


ROUTE    NEAR   THE    THIRTY-FIFTH    PARALLEL.  75 

from  Fort  Smith  1,182  miles,  and  from  the  crossing  of  the  Eio  Grande  328  miles.  Here  it 
ascends  to  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  the  Gila  on  the  south,  and  of  the  Colorado 
of  the  West  on  the  north,  and  continues  (or  nearly  so)  upon  it  for  about  200  miles,  to  the  Aztec 
Pass,  (elevation  6,281  feet ;)  distance  from  Fort  Smith  1,350  miles.  The  highest  point  reached 
upon  this  undulating  ridge  is  7,472  feet  at  Leroux's  spring,  at  the  foot  of  the  San  Francisco 
mountain.  From  the  Aztec  Pass  the  descent  to  the  Colorado  of  the  West  is  made  by  a  circuitous 
route  northward  along  valleys  of  its  tributaries,  the  largest  and  last  being  Bill  Williams 
fork,  the  mouth  of  which,  on  the  Colorado,  is  1,522  miles  from  Fort  Smith,  and  at  an  elevation 
above  the  sea  of  about  208  feet. 

The  Colorado  is  now  ascended  thirty-four  miles,  the  route  leaving  it  at  the  Needles.  The 
supposed  mouth  of  the  Mojave  river  was  examined  :  by  the  valley  of  this  stream  it  was 
expected  to  ascend  to  the  Cajon  Pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada.  This  proved,  however,  to  be  the 
valley  of  a  stream,  dry  at  the  time,  whose  source  was  in  an  elevated  ridge  which,  probably, 
divides  the  Great  Basin  from  the  waters  of  the  Colorado.  It  is  not  yet  ascertained  that  the 
valley  of  the  Mohave  river  is  continuous  to  the  Colorado,  though  Lieutenant  Whipple  is  san 
guine  that  it  will  be  found  to  be  so.  From  the  summit,  5,262  feet  (cut  thirty  feet)  above 
the  sea,  the  descent  is  made  to  Soda  lake,  the  recipient,  at  some  seasons,  of  the  waters  of 
the  Mohave  river,  1,117  feet  above  the  sea,  at  an  average  grade  of  100  feet  to  the  mile  for 
forty-one  miles,  the  steepest  grade  yet  required  on  this  route.  The  ascent  to  the  summit  of 
the  tunnel,  elevation  4,179  feet,  in  the  Cajon  Pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  made  by  following 
the  valley  of  the  Mojave  river.  The  summit  of  this  pass,  by  the  line  of  location,  is  1,798 
miles  from  Fort  Smith,  and  242  from  the  point  of  crossing  the  Colorado.  Here,  according  to 
Lieutenant  Whipple,  a  tunnel  of  2^  miles,  through  white  conglomerated  sandstone,  is  required. 
But,  according  to  Lieutenant  Williamson,  who  spent  more  time  upon  it,  it  would  be  3r"V 
miles.  The  tunnel  descends  to  the  west  with  an  inclination  of  100  feet  per  mile,  which  grade 
will  be  the  average  for  twenty-two  miles,  into  the  valley  of  Los  Angeles,  by  side  location, 
and  thence  to  the  port  of  San  Pedro,  1,892  miles  distant  from  Fort  Smith. 

Lieutenant  Williamson  reports  upon  the  Cajon  Pass,  that,  in  his  opinion,  the  natural 
grades,  varying  between  90  and  171  feet  per  mile,  canD<>6  be  much  reduced  by  side-location, 
on  account  of  the  broken  character  of  the  hills. 

Should  it  be  desired  to  reach  San  Francisco  by  the  Tulares  and  San  Joaquin  valleys,  the 
route  should  leave  the  Mojave  valley  some  thirty  miles  before  reaching  the  entrance  to  the 
Cajon  Pass,  1,768  miles  from  Fort  Smith,  elevation  about  2,555  feet,  and  proceed  across  the 
southwest  corner  of  the  Great  Basin,  towards  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  reaching  its  entrance 
at  an  elevation  of  3,300  feet,  in  a  distance  of  about  eighty  miles,  and  without  crossing  ridges 
that  would  increase  the  ascents  more  than  500  feet  beyond  the  difference  of  elevation  of  the  two 
points.  The  route  is  then  coincident  with  that  described  for  the  32d  parallel. 

The  general  features  of  the  country  indicated  lines  for  examination  at  more  than  one  point, 
which  will,  probably,  greatly  improve  the  route  by  reducing  the  ascents  and  shortening  dis 
tances.  The  party  was,  however,  unable  to  examine  them. 

An  examination  of  the  profile  of  this  route  shows  that,  in  respect  to  grade,  it  is  not  only 
practicable,  but  that  the  heaviest  grades  that  will  probably  be  required  do  not  equal  those  in 
use  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad. 

SOIL. 

Grama  grass  being  found  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Canadian,  in  longitude  96°,  and  extend 
ing  westward  in  greater  or  less  abundance  to  the  Sierra  Nevada,  indicates  that  the  change 
from  fertility  to  barrenness  begins  in  that  longitude,  at  least  north  of  the  Canadian.  Cac- 
tacea3  also  make  their  appearance  with  grama  grass.  South  of  it,  however,  the  geological 
formation  is  that  of  a  good  soil  to  about  longitude  98^.  At  this  point  the  change  to  uncul- 


76  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-FIFTH    PARALLEL. 

livable  land  is  complete,  excepting  in  the  river-bottoms,  which  are  more  or  less  fertile,  but 
not  the  great  body  of  the  land.  Not  far  south  of  the  route  good  soil  extends  westward  to  the 
termination  of  the  Witchita  mountains.  Some  portions  of  the  upper  valley  of  the  Canadian, 
the  upper  valley  of  the  Pecos,  the  valleys  of  the  Rio  Grande,  Zuni,  Colorado  Chiquito,  San 
Francisco,  Colorado  of  the  West,  and  its  tributaries,  possess  a  fertile  soil,  requiring,  generally, 
irrigation  to  make  it  productive.  That  portion  of  the  southwest  corner  of  the  Great  Basin 
traversed  by  this  route,  and  over  which  the  explorations  of  Lieutenant  Williamson  extended, 
is  well  constituted  for  fertility,  its  barrenness  resulting  from  the  absence  of  rain.  Generally 
the  uncultivable  plains  have  an  abundance  of  nutritious  grass,  though  there  are  extensive 
tracts  where  little  or  none  is  found — the  two  greatest  being  from  the  Antelope  Hills  to  Tecum- 
cari  creek  on  the  Canadian,  250  or  260  miles,  and  from  the  lower  part  of  Santa  Maria  river  to 
the  Mohave  river,  200  miles. 

The  country  north  of  the  Colorado  Chiquito  and  west  of  the  Sierra  Madre  as  far  as  the  eastern 
slope  of  the  San  Francisco  mountain,  is  represented  to  be  a  remarkably  fine  grazing  country; 
from  that  point  westward  to  about  the  meridian  of  113^°  (sixty  or  seventy  miles  east  of  the 
Colorado,)  it  is  well  wooded,  the  whole  presenting  an  attractive  appearance  to  the  traveller,  who 
would,  no  doubt,  from  its  strong  contrast  to  other  portions,  describe  it  as  a  highly  fertile 
region,  though,  with  the  exception  of  the  valleys  of  the  streams,  it  would  prove  upon  trial  to  be 
uncultivable. 

The  land  now  cultivated  in  New  Mexico  is  estimated  at  200  square  miles,  and  the  land 
cultivable  now  vacant,  exclusive  of  the  vast  region  occupied  by  the  Navajoes,  Moquis,  Tanians, 
and  wilder  tribes  of  Indians,  at  about  490  square  miles,  giving  a  total  of  about  700  square  miles. 

Only  one-fifth  of  the  bottom  land  of  the  Rio  Grande  capable  of  irrigation  and  cultivation,  is 
now  under  culture. 

The  valley  of  the  Colorado  between  its  mouth  and  the  35th  parallel,  contains  1,600  square 
miles  of  fertile  soil  capable  of  irrigation. 

BUILDING   MATERIALS,    TIES,    LUMBER,    &C. 

The  geologist,  Mr.  Marcou,  descries  the  Trias  and  Jurassic  formations,  extending  from 
Delaware  mountain  on  the  Canadian,  to  ttxe  Rocky  mountains,  600  miles,  as  generally  soft 
and  friable;  but  as  Lieutenant  Whipple,  and  Mr.  Campbell,  the  assistant  railroad  engineer, 
report  the  existence  in  these  formations  of  good  sandstones,  suitable  for  the  bridge-building 
required,  this  portion  of  the  route  may  be  considered  well  supplied  with  good  building-stone. 
Over  other  portions  of  the  route  it  would  be  found  at  intervals  not  too  great  for  economical 
transportation. 

TIES,    LUMBER,    AC. 

Timber  of  size  suitable  for  ties,  and  lumber  generally  for  railroad  uses  in  large  quantities, 
is  found  in  the  following  localities:  Continuously  on  the  route  east  of  longitude  9*7°  ;  in  or 
near  the  Pecos  valley;  in  the  Rocky  mountains  and  Sierra  Madre;  in  the  Mogoyon  mount 
ains,  (south  of  the  route)  in  which  the  Colorado  Chiquito  and  some  of  its  tributaries  rise  ;  on 
the  slopes  of  the  San  Francisco  mountain,  and  continuously  with  short  intervals  for  more 
than  120  miles,  and  on  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  distances  apart  of  these  points  of  supply  are, 
respectively,  540  miles,  100  miles,  150  miles;  from  the  Sierra  Madre  to  San  Francisco  mount 
ain,  250  miles;  then  for  a  space  of  about  120  miles  the  supply  may  be  considered  continuous; 
thence  to  the  Sierra  Nevada,  420  miles.  The  road  being  built  from  the  two  termini,  the 
greatest  spaces  over  which  ties,  lumber,  &c.,  must  be  brought  by  it,  are  400  and  500  miles. 
The  route,  therefore,  in  comparison  with  others,  is  favorably  circumstanced  in  this  respect. 


ROUTE    NEAR   THE    THIRTY-FIFTH    PARALLEL.  77 

FUEL. 

From  longitude  97°  to  the  Pecos  valley,  540  miles,  there  will  probably  be  sufficient  fuel  for 
working  parties,  and  perhaps  for  200  miles  of  this  distance  sufficient  for  railroad  use  might  be 
found,  but  not  for  the  remaining  350  miles.  Between  the  Pecos  and  the  Kocky  mountains, 
100  miles;  across  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande,  150  miles;  from  the  Sierra  Madre  to  San 
Francisco  mountain,  250  miles,  sufficient  fuel  for  working  parties  will  probably  be  found  with 
out  excessive  cost.  As  it  can  be  brought  from  the  Mogoyon  mountains  to  various  points  on  the 
Colorado  Chiquito,  and  exists  at  the  extremities  of  these  spaces,  this  portion  of  the  route  may 
be  considered  amply  provided  with  fuel.  Over  the  space  of  120  miles  from  San  Francisco 
mountain  to  the  Aztec  Pass,  a  sufficiency  for  railroad  purposes  will  be  found  at  convenient  dis 
tances.  From  the  Aztec  Pass  to  the  Sierra  Nevada,  420  miles,  no  fuel  for  railroad  purposes 
will  be  found,  and  that  for  working-parties  will  be  scanty  in  some  places.  From  the  point 
of  leaving  the  Colorado  to  the  Mohave  river,  115  miles,  no  fuel  is  to  be  had. 

It  is  reported  that  coal  exists  in  several  localities  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  both  east 
and  west  of  the  Rio  Grande,  near  this  route,  but  there  is  no  positive  and  reliable  information 
that  it  has  been  found  in  sufficient  quantities  for  profitable  mining. 

As  coal  for  locomotive  uses  will  bear  transportation  3.5  times  as  far  as  wood,  the  supplies  of 
fuel  for  the  350  miles  east  of  the  Rio  Grande  can  be  had  from  the  coal-fields  of  Delaware 
mountain ;  that  for  the  space  of  540  miles  east  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  from  the  Pacific  ports, 
the  mean  distance  to  which  it  must  be  transported  in  the  latter  case  being  260  or  270  miles. 
These  are  the  only  two  portions  of  the  route  which  cannot  be  readily  supplied  from  convenient 
distances  on  the  route. 

Fuel  forms  about  one-fifth  the  yearly  expense  of  maintaining  and  working  a  railroad. 

WATER. 

The  exact  distances  over  which  water  is  not  found  at  certain  seasons,  or  permanently,  are 
not  stated.  It  does  not  appear,  however,  that  a  resort  to  unusual  means  will  be  necessary  east 
of  100°  longitude.  Between  that  and  the  Pacific  there  are  spaces  destitute  of  it,  where, 
from  the  known  character  of  the  geological  structure,  there  is  no  doubt  that  sufficient  supplies 
can  be  obtained  either  by  deep  common  wells,  artesian  wells,  or  reservoirs.  It  is  better  sup 
plied  with  water  than  the  route  of  the  32d  parallel,  and  from  the  Rio  Grande  to  Santa  Maria 
river  there  are  supplies  of  timber  and  fuel  on  the  line,  which  the  other  route  is  deficient  in. 
These  larger  supplies  of  timber  and  water  west  of  the  Rio  Grande  are  attained  at  the  expense 
of  great  elevation  and  somewhat  rugged  ground. 

The  Galesteo  Pass  in  the  rocky  mountains  and  the  passes  in  the  Sierre  Madre  being  wide 
openings,  or  valleys,  rather  than  mountain  passes,  no  difficulty  need  be  apprehended  from 
snows,  even  if  it  fell  to  greater  depths  than  those  known.  Over  the  remainder  of  the  route 
no  difficulty  from  this  cause  is  to  be  met  with. 

ELEVATIONS,    &C. 

The  line  rises  gradually  from  the  eastern  terminus,  and  on  Pajarito  creek,  705  miles  from 
Fort  Smith,  has  attained  an  elevation  of  5,000  feet  above  the  sea,  which  elevation  it  does  not 
descend  to  again  (except  for  a  short  distance)  for  a  space  of  over  600  miles,  and  until  on  the 
descent  to  the  Colorado  of  the  West.  It  passes  the  Rocky  mountains  at  an  elevation  of 
7,000  feet,  the  Sierra  Madre  at  8,000  feet,  the  foot  of  San  Francisco  mountain  at  7,450  feet, 
the  Aztec  Pass  at  about  6,000  feet,  the  divide  between  the  Great  Basin  and  the  Colorado  at 
5,300  feet,  and  the  Cajon  Pass  by  a  tunnel  4,000  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  sum  of  the  ascents  from  San  Pedro  to  Fort  Smith  is  24,641  ieet,  of  descents  24,171 
feet — equivalent,  in  the  cost  of  working  the  road,  to  an  increased  horizontal  distance  of  924, 


78  ROUTE   NEAR   THE   THIRTY-FIFTH   PARALLEL. 

which  added  to  the  length  of  the  line  of  location,  1,892  miles,  gives  for  length  of  equated  dis 
tance  2,816  miles. 

The  sum  of  ascents  from  San  Francisco  to  Fort  Smith  by  the  route  from  Mohave  river  to 
Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass  is  25,570  feet,  of  descents  25,100  feet;  the  equivalent  in  miles  of  horizon 
tal  road  is  963  miles,  which  added  to  the  location  distance  between  these  two  points,  2,174 
miles,  gives  for  equated  length  of  road  3,137  miles. 

ESTIMATE. 

The  description  of  the  topographical  features  of  the  route  is  not  sufficiently  minute  to 
enable  one  to  form  a  satisfactory  opinion  of  the  difficulties  of  ground  to  be  encountered,  and 
consequently  of  the  probable  cost  of  the  formation  of  the  road-bed.  Upon  this  point  we  must 
rest  satisfied  with  the  opinion  of  Lieutenant  Whipple,  who  assimilates  the  several  portions 
of  the  route  to  roads  already  built  possessing  as  nearly  as  possible  similar  features  and 
difficulties.  The  impression,  however,  conveyed  by  the  report,  as  to  the  nature  of  the  ground 
passed  over,  together  with  that  formed  from  the  description  by  others  of  some  portions  of 
it,  induced  me  to  think  that  the  ground  was  more  favorable  than  the  comparison  of  Lieutenant 
Whipple  shows  it  to  be,  and  that  the  amount  of  work  in  forming  the  road-bed  would  have 
been  less  than  that  of  the  roads  mentioned. 

Four  hundred  and  eighty  miles  of  the  route  are  assimilated  to  the  Hudson  Kiver  railroad; 
151  miles  to  the  Worcester  and  Albany  railroad,  (Western  railroad;)  and  374  miles  to  the 
Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad;  making  1,005  miles  assimilated  to  railroads  among  the  most 
difficult  and  costly  that  have  been  constructed  in  the  United  States. 

It  is  probable  that,  from  the  Eio  Grande  to  the  Colorado,  the  additional  cost  to  eastern 
prices  should  have  been  rather  100  per  cent.,  than  40,  50,  and  60  per  cent. — the  increased  cost 
allowed  by  Lieutenant  Whipple.  For  the  remaining  distance,  from  the  Colorado  to  the 
Pacific,  100  per  cent,  has  been  added  by  Lieutenant  Whipple  to  the  cost  at  eastern  prices. 
This  estimate  includes  the  cost  of  equipment.  This,  on  the  roads  used  as  standards  of  com 
parison,  amounts  to  $6,000  or  $7,000  per  mile,  four-fifths  of  which  should  be  deducted,  as  the 
cost  per  mile  from  this  source  may  be  one-fifth  of  the  cost  on  the  eastern  roads.  This  would 
diminish  the  estimate  about  $12,000,000,  but  at  the  same  time  the  increased  per-centage  would 
increase  it  about  $19,381,000.  The  difference  between  these  sums,  $7,381,000,  (about,)  should 
be  added  to  the  corrected  estimate,  $161,829,265,  and  the  total  estimate  under  this  supposition 
becomes  $169,210,265. 


CHAPTER  V. 

ROUTE  NEAR  THE  THIRTY-SECOND  PARALLEL  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE. 

As  the  information  respecting  this  route  is  to  be  found  in  several  separate  reports,  and  as  those 
upon  that  portion  of  it  between  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Pacific  ocean  do  not  discuss  the  railroad 
practicability  and  mode  of  construction  with  the  minuteness  necessary,  and  as  there  is  no  railroad 
report  upon  the  whole  route,  I  have  been  obliged  to  enter  minutely  into  details  which,  on  the 
other  routes,  are  found  in  the  reports  of  the  exploring  officer. 

1.    FROM  FULTON  TO  THE   RIO  GRANDE. 

The  report  of  Captain  Pope  is  methodically  arranged ;  and  being  brief,  yel  sufficiently  full, 
it  is  unnecessary  to  make  a  synopsis  of  it.  The  portion  of  the  route  near  the  thirty- second 
parallel  examined  by  him  is  that  from  the  Red  river  to  the  Rio  Grande,  a  distance  of  646 
miles.  It  is  naturally  divided  into  three  distinct  belts,  which  are  clearly  described  by  Cap 
tain  Pope. 

The  first  division,  from  the  Red  river  to  the  eastern  border  of  the  Llano  Estacado,  352  miles, 
gives  generally  easy  grades,  except  where,  in  crossing  streams,  we  have  probably  to  descend 
from  the  bluffs  to  near  the  level  of  the  stream,  and  ascend  again ;  but  which  can  be  reduced, 
by  lengthening  the  line,  to  the  grade  found  suitable  to  the  other  portions  of  the  route.  This  part 
of  his  line  has  an  abundant  supply  of  water  and  fuel,  of  wood  for  cross-ties,  and  lumber  for 
two-thirds  of  the  distance. 

The  important  characteristic  feature  of  Captain  Pope's  route,  dwelt  upon  with  so  much  force 
by  him,  is  the  extension  westward  of  fertile  land  to  near  the  headwaters  of  the  Colorado.  It 
is  to  be  remarked  that,  from  the  geological  indications,  it  is  probable  that  a  line  drawn  from 
Red  river  at  the  termination  of  the  fertile  soil,  in  its  basin,  in  a  general  parallel  direction  with  the 
Gulf  coast,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Sabine  to  the  Nueces  river,  will  mark  the  boundary  between 
the  cultivable  and  barren  soil.  The  influence  of  the  moist  winds  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  may 
also  aid  in  giving  this  westward  extension  to  the  fertile  land  near  the  parallels  of  32°  and  34°. 
North  of  the  Canadian,  this  boundary  line  between  fertility  and  barrenness  takes  the  direction 
of  the  meridian,  and  extends  along  it  northward  into  the  British  possessions. 

The  evidence  adduced  in  support  of  this  western  extension  of  fertile  soil  is  not  sufficiently  full 
or  conclusive. 

The  specimens  of  soils,  of  which  the  analysis  is  given,  were  gathered  from  the  Upper  Cross 
Timbers  westward ;  but  it  is  not  stated  whether  those  which  belong  to  the  section,  from  that 
point  to  the  Llano  Estacado,  were  intended  to  represent  the  condition  of  the  most  fertile  por 
tions,  or  the  average  condition  of  the  whole  surface. 

Even  if  their  analysis  exhibited  fertile  constituents,  it  is  well  known  that  many  extensive  areas 
of  tertiary  soil  well  constituted  for  fertility  are  uncultivable,  from  the  meteorological  conditions 
of  the  district  in  which  they  are  found.  Additional  facts  are,  in  my  opinion,  required  to 
establish  the  existence  of  the  westwardly  extension  of  fertile  soil  in  this  latitude. 

The  second  belt  described  is  the  Llano  Estacado,  125  miles  across.  Upon  this  it  is  only  neces 
sary  to  remark,  that  its  geological  formation  is  such  as  to  render  the  success  of  artesian  wells, 
in  obtaining  large  supplies  of  water,  certain.  To  build  a  railroad  across  it,  commencing  at  the 


SO  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL. 

eastern  border,  at  the  last  point  of  abundant  supply  of  water,  parties  should  be  pushed  forward 
to  dig  tanks  wherever  the  ground  favors  their  construction,  and  to  sink  artesian  wells  at  dis 
tances  of  20  miles  apart,  or  less,  should  water  be  readily  procured  by  this  process.  Supposing 
it  even  necessary  to  bore  an  artesian  well  at  eveiy  10  miles,  and  that  the  cost  should  be  $10,000 
each  well,  which  is  double  that  of  an  excessive  estimate  of  the  cost  of  a  series  of  these  wells, 
we  should  have  SI, 000  per  mile  for  cost  of  road  from  this  cause.  By  these  two  means,  abundant 
supplies  of  water  can  be  got  at  points  a  few  miles  apart,  where  the  camps  of  the  working  parties, 
which  need  not  be  large,  can  be  established.  The  dwarf  mezquite,  found  on  the  Llano,  will 
furnish  sufficient  fuel  for  these  parties. 

Railroad  trains  having  engines  of  twenty-two  tons,  on  four  drivers,  can  carry  sufficient  water 
from  the  headwaters  of  the  Colorado  to  the  mouth  of  Delaware  creek  or  the  Pecos,  125  miles, 
without  adding  to  the  expense  of  running  the  trains;  and  can,  from  either  end  of  this  line,  supply 
all  the  intermediate  stations  necessary  for  the  superintendence,  repair,  and  supply  of  the  road. 

Ties  can  be  brought  from  the  country  east,  and  from  the  Guadalupe  mountains,  at  reasonable 
cost.  Fuel,  also,  can  be  supplied  from  the  Brazos,  or  from  the  Colorado  of  Texas.  Fortunately, 
over  these  plains,  destitute  of  water,  but  very  little  excavation  or  embankment  will  be  required, 
and  the  rails  can  soon  be  laid.  Probably  it  would  be  most  convenient  to  bring  ties,  sleepers, 
and  lumber  generally,  by  the  road  itself,  from  the  route  east  of  the  Llano.  In  fact,  from  the 
east  border  of  the  Llano  westward,  and  from  the  Pacific  eastward,  a  distance  of  1,200  miles,  the 
road  must  be  made,  as  it  were,  to  build  itself,  carrying  its  lumber,  iron,  rails,  provisions,  and 
sometimes  water,  so  far  as  a  proper  adjustment  of  economy  of  time  with  that  of  expenditure 
admits  of  its  doing  so.  Its  progress,  from  this  cause,  will  be  slow  ;  but  as  the  surface  is  very 
smooth,  and  the  inclinations  gentle,  over  these  plains,  its  construction  will  be  proportionately  more 
rapid,  aiding  to  balance  the  slow  progress  from  the  other  cause. 

The  third  section,  from  the  Pecos  river  to  the  Rio  Grande,  presents  no  unusual  difficulties  in 
grade  or  construction,  so  far  as  dependent  upon  the  topographical  features  of  the  country. 
The  Guadalupe  mountains  are  passed  without  a  tunnel,  and  with  a  grade  of  108  feet  to  the 
mile;  a  grade  not  exceeding  those  found  on  roads  now  built,  as  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio,  and 
other  railroads.  Other  routes  through  or  around  these  mountains  are  recommended  for  examina 
tion,  which,  it  is  thought,  will  give  easier  grades.  Sufficient  supplies  of  water  can  be  had  at  con 
venient  distances  apart,  fuel  for  working  parties  from  the  dwarf  mezquite  on  the  plains,  and 
cross-ties  and  lumber  can  be  had  from  the  Guadalupe  mountains  immediately  on  the  line  of  the 
road,  and  from  the  Waco  mountains,  30  miles  distant  from  it,  and  also  by  means  of  the  built  por 
tions  of  the  road,  from  the  supplies  on  the  Brazos  and  Red  rivers. 

BUILDING-STONE,    &C. 

In  regard  to  good  building-stone  the  report  of  the  geologist,  Jules  Marcou,  on  the  specimens 
procured  by  Captain  Pope — see  Chapter  13,  Captain  Pope's  Report — is  not  sufficiently  explicit 
respecting  all  the  formations.  The  cretaceous  from  Red  river  to  the  lower  line  of  the 
Upper  Cross  Timbers,  70  miles,  is  probably  too  soft ;  but  thence  to  the  Clear  fork  of  the 
Brazos,  120  miles,  it  is  undoubtedly  good.  From  the  Clear  fork  to  the  Guadalupe  mountains,  340 
miles,  the  route  is  over  formations  called  by  the  geologist  Trias  and  Jurassic.  From  his  descrip 
tion  it  is  possible  they  may  be  found  too  soft,  though  good  building-stone  is  found  in  the  Trias, 
as,  for  instance,  the  new  red  sandstone  of  the  Connecticut.  The  geologist  says  :  "  For  the 
construction  of  a  railroad  the  rocks  of  the  Trias  present  great  facilities.  They  furnish  sandstone, 
plaster  or  gypsum,  excellent  hydraulic  lime  from  the  magnesian  limestone,  and,  finally,  they  are 
very  easy  to  work,  and  at  the  same  time  firm  enough  to  form  excavations  or  embankments.'' 
The  sentence  is  somewhat  inexact  in  its  language.  The  detailed  geological  report  will  remove 
any  uncertainty  upon  this  point.  Lieutenant  Whipple  passed  over  the  same  formations  on  the 


ROUTE   NEAR   THE    THIRTY  SECOND   PARALLEL.  81 

route  of  the  35th  parallel,  and,  with  the  assistant  railroad  engineer,  reports  the  existence  of 
good  building-stone  there.  From  the  Guadalupe  mountains  to  the  Rio  Grande  excellent 
building-stone  is  found. 

The  existence  of  coal  upon  the  Brazos  is  of  importance  to  this  route.  Fuel  for  working  the 
road,  as  well  as  lumber,  will  be  considered  separately  for  the  whole  route. 

In  general  it  may  be  remarked  on  this  section  of  the  route  near  the  32d  parallel,  from  the  Red 
river  to  the  Rio  Grande,  780  miles,  that  the  topographical  features  of  the  ground  present  no 
unusual  difficulties  and  many  favorable  circumstances  ;  that  supplies  of  building  material  can  be 
obtained  throughout  the  line  without  excessive  cost ;  and  that  the  supply  of  fuel  and  water, 
throughout  those  portions  destitute  of  it,  can  be  had  without  greatly  increasing  the  cost  of  construc 
tion  and  transportation. 

The  elevations  are  : 

From  Preston,  on  Red  river,  641  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  the  ground  rises 

in  six  miles  to  the  level  of  about 1,200  feet. 

At  the  Upper  Cross  Timbers 1,782  feet. 

At  the  West  fork  of  Trinity 1,524  feet. 

At  the  Brazos  river 1,700  feet. 

At  the  divide  of  the  Brazos  and  Colorado  rivers 4,237  feet. 

At  the  Colorado 3,989  feet. 

At  the  border  of  the  Llano  Estacado 4,278  feet. 

The  greatest  elevation  of  the  Llano  Estacado  is 4,707  feet. 

The  general  elevation  of  the  Llano  Estacado  is  about 4,500  feet. 

The  elevation  of  the  Pecos,  where  crossed 4,070  feet. 

The  elevation  of  the  summit  of  the  Guadalupe  Pass 5,717  teet. 

The  elevation  of  the  summit  of  the  Hueco  Pass 4,812  feet. 

The  general  elevation  of  the  table-lands  between  the  Pecos  and  the  Rio  Grande,  is 

from 4,000  to  4,500  feet. 

The  elevation  of  the  Rio  Grande  valley,  at  Molino,  is 3,830  feet. 

ESTIMATE. 

The  estimate  for  cost  of  construction  is,  perhaps,  in  excess ;  the  cost  per  mile  from  Fulton, 
on  Red  river,  to  the  Rio  Grande,  a  distance  of  780  miles,  being  at  the  rate  of  $50,000  per  mile. 
On  the  northern  route,  the  estimated  mean  cost  of  the  first  780  miles  is  about  $35,400  per  mile, 
(240  miles  at  $25,000  per  mile — next,  712  miles  at  840,000  per  mile;)  yet,  from  the  description 
of  these  portions  of  the  two  routes,  it  is  evident  the  difference  in  cost  per  mile  of  constructing  the 
two  will  not  be  great.  This  is  mentioned  to  show  what  different  judgments  are  formed  in 
making  these  estimates,  and  what  caution  should  be  used  in  being  guided  by  estimates  in  figures 
of  the  costs  of  routes  that  have  not  been  subjected  to  the  same  judgment  or  same  standard.  The 
difference  of  estimated  cost  in  this  distance  of  780  miles  on  roads  that  would  not  probably  vary 
greatly  in  their  actual  cost  of  construction,  is  $11,700,000;  and  if  the  same  difference  should 
exist  throughout  the  entire  distance,  it  would  sum  up  to  about  $35,000,000. 

2.    FROM  THE   RIO  GRANDE   TO  THE   MOUTH  OF   THE   GILA. 

After  ascending  from  the  bottom  lands  of  the  Rio  Grande,  in  traversing  the  region  examined 
by  Lieutenant  Parke  between  these  two  rivers,  from  Dona  Ana  to  the  Pimas  villages,  one  appears 
to  be  travelling  on  a  great  plain,  interrupted  irregularly  and  confusedly  by  bare,  rugged,  abrupt, 
isolated  mountain  masses,  or  short  ranges,  seemingly,  though  not  in  reality,  without  system. 
Winding  around  these  isolated  or  lost  mountains,  or  using  a  few  passes  through  them,  a  railroad 
lla 


82  ROUTE    NEAR   THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL. 

may  be  constructed  with  easy  grades.  The  instrumental  profile,  however,  shows  that  what  to 
the  eye  appears  to  be  a  plain,  is  really  an  undulating  surface,  constantly  rising  and  falling,  rarely 
horizontal,  and  that  the  plain  is  converted  into  a  series  of  basins,  the  steepest  parts  of  which  are 
found  in  passing  around  the  lost  mountains,  or  through  the  passes  in  them.  The  summits  of  these 
basin-rims  or  passes  are  generally  about  400  fret  above  the  lowest  parts  of  the  basins,  though 
in  two  instances  850  and  1,200  feet  respectively ;  the  mean  elevation  of  the  basins  above  the 
level  of  the  sea  being  about  4,100  feet,  decreasing  from  near  the  Rio  Grande,  where  it  is  4,350 
feet,  towards  the  Gila.  The  mean  elevation  of  the  low(  st  points  of  the  dividing  rims  is  4,700 
feet,  the  highest  of  them,  the  pass  through  the  Chiricahui  range,  being  5,180  feet.  Seven  basins 
are  crossed,  the  eighth  continuing  or  conducting  to  the  Gila.  Except  through  the  mountain 
passes,  the  surface  is  so  smooth  as  to  require  but  little  preparation  to  receive  the  superstructure 
of  a  railroad;  and  even  in  the  two  most  difficult  of  the  passes,  (where,  in  one  case,  deep  cutting 
or  a  tunnel  at  the  summit,  near  the  surface,  in  rock,  with  heavy  side-cutting  and  high  embank 
ments  for  short  distances,  and  in  the  other  a  short  cut  of  GO  feet — probably  through  rock — 
are  proposed  by  Lieutenant  Pajke,  to  attain  grades  of  46  feet  and  90  feet  per  mile,  or  less  by 
increasing  distance,)  the  natural  slope  of  the  ground  may  be  used  for  a  railroad  for  temporary 
purposes,  and  until  the  road  itself  can  reduce  the  cost  of  materials  and  supplies  to  the  lowest 
rates. 

The  following  table  of  distances  and  grades  over  the  natural  slopes,  is  given  to  show  this. 
These  two  most  difl&cult  parts  of  the  road  are  from  25  to  30  miles  apart.  In  the  Chiricahui  Pass, 
the  steepest  natural  slope  is  194  feet  to  the  mile  for  a  distance  of  2^  miles.  A  twenty-four  ton 
engine,  on  six  drivers,  can  carry  a  load  of  76  tons  (210  passengers  with  100  pounds  baggage 
each)  up  a  grade  of  221  feet  to  a  mile  in  the  worst  condition  of  the  rail. 

In  the  pass  through  the  ridge  east  of  the  Valle  de  Sauz,  the  steepest  natural  slope  is  240  feet  to 
the  mile  for  a  distance  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  A  thirty-ton  engine,  on  six  drivers,  will  carry 
a  load  of  76  tons  (200  passengers  with  100  pounds  baggage  each)  up  a  grade  of  281  feet  per 
mile.  But  the  tunnel  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile  through  rock  near  the  surface,  or  cutting,  may 
be  preferable  to  using  this  steep  slope.  This  natural  slope  of  <?40  feet  to  the  mile  for  the  distance 
of  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  may  be  reduced  to  one  of  200  feet  to  the  mile,  by  a  short  cutting 
of  30  feet  depth.  The  natural  slope  in  the  steepest  part  of  the  Chiricahui  Pass  being  nearly 
200  feet  to  the  mile,  this  cut  would  reduce  these  two  passes  to  the  same  condition.  These  two 
points  have  been  referred  to  not  as  presenting  very  great  difficulties  in  construction,  but  merely 
from  their  being  the  only  points  on  the  line  that  appear  to  require  any  excavation  and  embank 
ment,  except  of  a  trifling  kind,  to  obtain  grades  generally  in  use  on  railroads,  and  to  show  that 
even  here  the  natural  slopes  were  such  as  might  be  used  with  but  little  preparation  for  the 
superstructure. 

It  is  probable  that  further  examination  will  show  that  the  pass  of  Puerto  del  Dado  may  be 
avoided  by  passing  to  the  north  of  the  Chiricahui  mountains. 

The  elevation  of  the  camp  near  Fort  Fillmore  is  3,938  feet  above  the  sea.  The  river  between 
this  and  El  Paso  is  about  300  yards  wide  when  confined  to  one  channel,  and  presents  no  serious 
difficulty  to  bridging.  The  elevation  at  Molino,  the  terminus  of  Captain  Pope's  survey,  is  3,830 
feet ;  the  distance  between  them  32  or  35  miles. 

Parkas  grades. 

From  the  Gila,  10  miles,  28.6  feet  per  mile,  ascending. 
60       u       7  "  " 

12       "     23  "  " 

19       "     50  "  " 

3       "     level. 


ROUTE   NEAR    THE   THIRTY-SECOND   PARALLEL.  83 

18  miles,  38     feet  per  mile  ascending. 

6£     "     61     feet  per  mile,  descending. 

6£     "     level. 
16£     "     62     feet  per  mile,  ascending. 

8i     "     54     feet  per  mile,  descending. 

5       "     level. 

In  the  Puerto  del  Dado  of  the  Chiricahui  range,  instead  of  the  60  feet  cutting,  heavy  embank 
ment,  and  side-cutting,  and  tho  grades  used  by  Lieut.  Parke,  46  feet  the  greatest,  we  may  use 
temporarily  the  surface  grades,  which  are  as  follows  : 

21  £     miles,     48  feet  per  mile,  ascending. 

0.65       "  180  "  " 

2£         "  194  feet  per  mile,  descending. 

3£         "         94  "  " 

6  "          19  "  " 

14  "         23  "  " 

In  the  gap  in  the  ridge  east  of  the  Valle  de  Sauz,  instead  of  the  cutting  of  60  feet,  or  tunnelling, 
and  a  grade  of  90  feet,  or  less,  by  increasing  distance,  we  may  use,  temporarily,  the  surface 
grades,  which  are  as  follows  : 

Camp   24,   to    station   1. — 1.55  mile,  150  feet  per  mile,  ascending. 

2.45  miles,  104  "  " 

0.7    mile,    240  "  " 

0.5       "         30  feet  per  mile,  descending. 

2.25  miles,    57  "  « 

Station  6 1.45  miles,    72  "  « 

4  "       21  "  " 

3  4  feet  per  mile,  ascending. 

5.5         "       75  "  " 

8  "       46  feet  per  mile,  descending. 

B 16.5         "       51  feet  per  mile,  ascending. 

11  "       level. 

34  "25  feet  per  mile,  descending. 

11  "       11  feet  per  mile,  ascending. 

12  "         5  feet  per  mile,  descending. 
4£          "       44  feet  per  mile,  ascending. 

ll£          "       22  feet  per  mile,  descending. 
3  "     123  "  " 

WATER  AND  FUEL. 

This  region,  then,  presents  great  advantages  in  the  construction  of  a  railroad  at  small  cost,  so 
far  as  the  grading  and  preparing  the  road-bed  for  the  superstructure  is  concerned;  but  in  two 
elements  for  cheap  construction  and  working  of  a  road,  it  is  now  very  deficient,  viz :  water  and 
fuel.  For  the  first,  the  distances  apart  of  the  permanent  streams  affording  large  supplies,  in 
the  dryest  season  of  the  year,  and  therefore  under  the  most  unfavorable  circumstances,  are  as 
follows : 

From  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  Rio  Mimbres,  71  miles. 

From  the  Rio  Grande  to  Cook's  Spring,  61  miles,  it  being  53  miles  from  the  Rio  Grande,  and 
8  miles  north  of  the  track. 


84  ROUTE    NEAR   THE   THIRTY-SECOND   PARALLEL. 

From  the  Rio  Mimbrcs  to  the  Rio  San  Pedro,  152.5  miles. 

Intermediate  is  Valle  de  Sauz,  72  miles,  where  water  is  always  found;  25  miles  furl  her 
on,  is  a  sprint;  in  the  Puerto  del  Dado. 

From  the  San  Pedro  to  Tuczon,  53  miles. 

From  Tuczon  to  the  Gila,  79  miles. 

There  are  springs  between  some  of  these  points  which  it  is  not  necessary  to  particularize. 

For  the  working  of  a  railroad  after  construction,  the  greatest  even  of  these  distances,  152.5 
miles,  is  not  too  great  to  be  overcorre  by  special  arrangements.  But  for  the  working  parties 
engaged  in  building  the  road,  supplies  of  water  must  be  had  at  every  few  miles.  Fortunately, 
the  formation  of  these  basins  is  such  as  to  afford,  at  comparatively  small  cost,  sufficient  supplies 
of  water  at  distances  convenient  for  the  construction  of  the  ro;id.  During  certain  portions  of  the 
year,  the  bottoms  of  some  of  these  basins  are  converted  into  lakes,  which  may  be  drained  into 
tanks. 

The  following  description  of  these  basins  by  Dr.  C.  C.  Parry,  geologist  upon  the  Mexican 
boundary  survey,  shows  that  artesian  wells,  of  no  great  depth,  c;m  be  resorted  to  successfully: 

"  All  the  so-called  '  mesa  formations''  and  'jornadas*  of  this  district  belong  to  a  distinct  system 
of  basin  deposites,  tertiary,  or  post-tertiary,  in  age,  and  still  showing  in  outlines  of  greater  or 
less  extent  the  original  areas  in  which  these  depositions  were  made.  These  basins  exhibit, 
quite  uniformly,  central  depressions,  and  margins  gently  rising  to  the  limit  of  the  mountain  bound 
aries.  The  lmesa,'  or  table-land  character,  is  exhibited  only  along  the  line  of  river-valleys,  as 
high  bluffs,  the  result  of  denuding  forces  subsequent  to  the  original  basin  depositions. 

"These  deposites  are  characterized,  as  a  whole,  by  a  great  preponderance  of  porous  mate 
rials,  consisting  of  gravel,  sands,  marls,  and  clays. 

"The  natural  supplies  of  fresh  water  for  these  open  wastes  are  derived  from  uncertain  accu 
mulations  of  rain  products  in  small  reservoirs,  or  occasional  permanent  springs,  the  latter  gen 
erally  occupying  situations  in  close  proximity  to  mountain  ranges. 

"All  these  basins  not  directly  connected  with  the  Rio  Grande  valley  receive  and  absorb  the 
drainage  of  their  respective  mountain  boundaries,  except  in  the  higher  elevations,  rarel}7  showing 
running  water,  unless  as  the  temporary  result  of  local  rains. 

"The  above  indications  are  favorable  to  the  formation  of  aqueous  substrata,  which  may  be 
reached  by  sufficiently  deep  boring,  and  when  located  at  the  lower  depressions  of  these  basin 
areas,  the  water  would  necessarily  be  brought  to  the  surface." 

Nearly  all  the  rain  that  falls  upon  the  scattered  mountains  probably  passes  underneath  the 
surface  before  reaching  the  foot-slopes,  since  the  coarse  angular  debris  of  the  moun  ains  extend 
high  up  thfir  sides,  permitting  the  water  to  percolate  through  and  descend  into  the  permeable  strata. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  nearly  all  the  mountain  stieams  and  drains  sink  before  reaching  the 
plains,  and  others  sink  on  the  plains  when  they  reach  a  porous  soil.  Where  a  deep  vertical  cut 
has  been  made  in  the  strata,  as,  for  instance,  in  the  valleys  of  large  rivers,  they  reappear, 
running  under  the  permeable  and  above  the  impermeable  strata.  From  these  facts  and  consid 
erations  it  appears  that  this  country,  at  times  almost  destitute  of  water  on  its  surface,  has  sub 
terranean  ponds,  and  streams,  at  no  great  depth  below,  which  can  be  made  to  furnish  water  at 
the  surface,  in  some  instances  by  artesian  wells,  and  in  others  by  ordinary  wells. 

This  opinion  is  confirmed  by  that  of  Mr.  Blake,  geologist  of  the  party  commanded  by  Lieutenant 
Williamson,  whose  description  of  the  series  of  small  basins  lying  in  the  Great  Basin  applies  strictly 
to  those  under  consideration.  The  formations  are  identical.  Mr.  Blake  has  detected  the  existence 
of  regularly  stratified  tertiary  formations  in  these  basins,  in  which  the  success  of  artesian  wells 
is  certain.  This  question  Will,  however,  be  satisfactorily  solved  by  boring,  as  the  economy  of 
construction  is  involved  to  some  degree  by  the  facilities  of  finding  water  sufficient  for  working 
par'ies  during  the  construction  of  the  road. 


ROUTE   NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL.  85 

The  most  unfavorable  condition,  towards  the  termination  of  the  dry  season,  has  been  presented 
above.  At  other  seasons  lakes  and  springs  will  furnish  water  at  much  shorter  intervals;  but  the 
first  step  in  the  construction  of  the  road  will  be  building  wells  between  the  points  of  abundant 
supply.  It  is  supposed  that  the  two  ends  of  the  road  from  the  Mississippi  and  Pacific  will 
reach  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  point  of  departure  from  the  Gila  at  the  same  time,  and  that  the 
road  across  the  intervening  space  will  be  commenced  at  the  two  ends. 


FUEL. 


The  report  of  Lieutenant  Parke  is  not  very  positive  upon  the  subject  of  fuel;  but  it  is  probable 
that  a  very  scanty  supply  for  the  working  parties  will  be  found  between  the  Rio  Grande  and 
Tuczon.  Should  the  dwarf  mezquite  be  found  in  the  usual  quantity,  with  grama  grass,  west  of 
the  Rio  Grande  as  east  of  it,  fuel  for  the  working  parties  will  be  had  along  the  route  without 
great  expense;  should  it  not  be,  however,  the  supply  will  be  very  scanty.  From  Tuczon  to  the 
Gila  there  is  no  fuel  whatever,  but  little  or  no  grass,  and  at  certain  portions  of  the  year  no  water. 
The  deficiency  must  be  supplied  from  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Gila,  and,  if  necessary,  by  the 
portions  of  the  road  already  built,  from  the  Guadalupe  mountains,  and  from  the  forests  on 
the  mountains  at  the  sources  of  the  Rio  Mimbres,  some  30  miles  distant  from  the  route  near 
Cook's  spring,  and  from  the  Mogoyon  and  other  mountains  at  the  sources  of  the  Gila,  San  Fran 
cisco  and  Salinas  rivers. 

The  climate  is  so  mild  as  to  require  but  little  more  fuel  than  is  necessary  for  culinary  purposes, 
and  the  trace  so  favorable  as  to  require  but  small  working  parties.  Should  ihe  line  along  the 
San  Pedro  be  found  practicable,  the  desert  between  Tuczon  and  the  Gila  will  be  avoided,  and 
the  expense  of  supplying  fuel  to  working  parties  from  the  Gila  to  the  point  of  leaving  the  San 
Pedro  be  saved. 


TIES LUMBER. 

For  ties,  the  lumber  of  the  Sacramento  and  Guadalupe  mountains,  and,  if  necessary,  from' the 
eastern  portion  of  the  route,  must  first  supply  them  ;  then  the  mountains  at  the  sources  of  the  Rio 
Mimbres,  should  it,  be  found  economical  to  resort  to  them,  and  the  source  of  supply  for  the  road 
along  the  Gila,  which  will  be  pointed  out  presently.  Lumber  will  come  from  the  same  points. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

A  party  under  Lieut.  Parke  has  been  directed  to  make  further  examinations  and  surveys  in 
this  region,  and  to  give  especial  attention  to  the  geological  structure,  with  a  view  to  the  loca 
tion  and  construction  of  artesian  wells. 

If  the  cost  per  mile  of  making  wells  and  supplying  fuel  for  culinary  purposes  from  distances 
unusually  great  on  railroad  routes,  will  add  to  the  usual  expense  of  construction,  the  regularity, 
smoothness,  and  hardness  of  surface,  mildness  of  climate,  and  absence  of  heavy  rains,  which  will 
dispense  with  the  usual  precautions  taken  against  frost,  will  so  far  obviate  the  necessity  of  the 
most  costly  item  of  construction  of  a  railroad,  as  to  make  the  construction  over  this  and  similar 
regions  of  country  a  positively  economical  one.  The  road  must  be  made,  as  far  as  practicable, 
and,  as  before  lemarked,  as  tar  as  consistent  with  a  good  adjustment  of  economy  of  time  with 
economy  of  means,  to  transport  its  own  material.  Short  sections  should  be  built  at  a  time,  so  as 
to  have  railroad  transportation  near  the  woiking  parties.  Building-stone,  lime,  sand,  &c.,  are 
found  at  various  convenient  points  along  the  route. 

The  further  examination  of  this  region,  to  be  made  by  Lieut.  Parke,  will  no  doubt  develop 
more  favorable  lines  even  than  that  gone  over.  The  labors  of  the  Mexican  boundary  survey, 
now  in  progress^  will  also  furnish  further  information  respecting  this  country. 


86  ROUTE    NEAR   THE    THIRTY-SECOND   PARALLEL. 

To  resume  the  route:  We  have  now  reached  the  Gila,  seven  miles  above  the  Pimas  villages, 
the  elevation  above  the  sea  being  1,365  feet.  From  this  point  to  its  junction  with  the  Colorado, 
the  valley  of  the  river  is  highly  favorable  to  the  construction  of  a  railroad.  There  will  be  no 
necessity  for  embankments  against  freshets,  but  trifling  occasional  cutting  and  filling;  and  in  those 
instances  where  the  hills  close  in  upon  the  river,  there  is  ample  space  for  the  road  without  heavy 
cutting.  The  elevation  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  being  108  feet,  and  the  distance  between  the 
two  points  223  miles,  we  have  a  general  slope  of  5.6  feet  per  mile,  which,  from  the  favorable 
character  of  the  ground,  may  be  assumed  as  the  grade  of  the  road. 

Water  and  fuel  for  working  parties  are  sufficient,  though  no  grass.  Logs  may  be  driven  down 
the  Gila  from  the  Mogoyon  mountains  at  its  source,  from  the  Final  Lleno,  and  down  the  San 
Francisco  and  Salinas  rivers,  from  the  pine  forests  on  the  former,  and  the  mountains  at  the 
sources  of  the  latter.  But  it  may  be  found  more  economical  to  receive  all  the  supplies  of  lumber 
needed  from  the  western  portion  of  the  road,  either  from  the  San  Bernardino  mountains  and  pass, 
or  from  the  harbors  of  San  Pedro  or  Diego,  or,  should  it  be  found  desirable  to  establish  one, 
from  the  depot  near  the  mouth  of  the  Gila. 

3.    FROM    THE    MOUTH    OF    THE    GILA    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

The  most  favorable  point  for  crossing  the  Colorado  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Gila  where  the  river 
is  narrowest,  650  feet  wide,  and  has  bluffs  on  both  banks. 

The  direction  that  the  road  should  take  across  the  desert  intervening  between  it  and  the  foot  of 
the  Coast  range,  depends  in  part  upon  the  position  of  the  pass  by  which  it  crosses  this  mountain 
chain.  There  are  two  passes  known  and  explored.  Warner's,  the  more  southerly  of  the  two, 
will  require  five  miles  of  excavation  in  granite  and  mica-slate  for  the  full  width  of  the  road,  the 
grades  varying  from  130  to  190  feet  per  mile.  Thence  to  San  Diego  by  the  San  Luis  river  there 
is  a  practicable  route,  but  at  great  cost  of  cutting  on  the  river  to  San  Luis  Key ;  thence  along  the 
seacoast  numerous  gullies  will  require  bridging.  The  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the  Gila,  over 
the  desert,  to  the  entrance  of  this  pass,  is  80  miles;  thence  to  San  Diego  is  150  miles.  The  Sari 
Gorgonio  or  San  Bernardino  Pass,  on  the  contrary,  is  remarkably  favorable.  It  is  an  open  valley, 
from  two  to  five  miles  wide,  the  surface,  smooth  and  unbroken,  affording  in  its  form  and  inclination 
every  facility  and  no  obstruction  to  the  building  of  a  railroad.  Leaving  the  Colorado,  it  would 
be  better  to  keep  upon  the  alluvial  soil,  passing  to  the  south  of  the  sand-hills,  and  thus  avoid  the 
hard  gravelly  plain,  where  it  would  be  necessary  to  bore  considerable  depths  for  water,  and 
where  the  success  of  artesian  wells  is  not  certain;  and  it  is  also  desirable  to  avoid  the  drifiing 
sand  of  the  gravel  plain.  But  this  obliges  the  road  to  pass  over  Mexican  territory.  The  entrance 
of  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass  is  133  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Gila  in  a  straight  line,  over  a  smooth 
and  nearly  horizontal  plain,  which  requires  scarcely  any  preparation  for  the  superstructure  of  a 
railroad.  Thirty  or  thirty-five  miles  of  this  lies  upon  the  gravel  plain ;  the  remainder  passes 
over  alluvial  soil,  which  only  needs  irrigation  to  be  fruitful.  The  first  work  is  to  construct  wells  at 
every  few  miles  for  the  use  of  the  working  parties.  On  the  alluvial  soil,  water  will,  no  doubt,  be 
found  at  a  depth  of  30  feet ;  and  should  deep  or  artesian  wells  fail  to  give  a  supply  on  the  gravel 
plain,  the  expense  of  hauling  it  to  the  working  parties  for  that  distance  will  not  be  serious.  Suf 
ficient  fuel  tor  culinary  purposes  will,  perhaps,  be  found  on  the  alluvial  plain — none  on  the  gravel 
plain;  but  it  can  be  supplied  from  the  mountains  at  about  double  the  cost  in  the  eastern 
States. 

The  elevation  of  the  mouth  of  the  Gila  is  108  feet,  and  the  grade  across  the  plain  nearly 
horizontal.  Approaching  the  pass,  we  have  for  10£  miles  an  ascending  slope  of  40  feet  per  mile  ; 
then  for  6  miles,  one  of  89  feet  per  mile.  We  arc  now  at  the  point  133  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Gila.  The  natural  slopes  along  the  line  of  survey  are — 


ROUTE   NEAR   THE   THIRTY-SECOND   PARALLEL.  87 

13  miles,  at    GO  feet  per  mile, 
2        "         132  " 

7        "  75  " 

to  the  summit,  2,808  feet  above  the  sea.     Descending  to  the  town  of  San  Bernardino,  we  have — 

R£  miles,  at    72  feet  per  mile. 
2.7       "  79  " 

2          "  77  " 

1.3       "         127  " 

4          "  75  " 

6i        "  41  " 

near  the  town  of  San  Bernardino,  at  an  elevation  of  1,120  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  above  enumeration  is  made  to  show  that  practicable  grades  can  be  had  by  following  the 
natural  slopes  of  the  ground  without  cutting  and  filling,  or  side  location,  and  therefore  without 
great  expense.  The  greatest  grade  is  132  feet  per  mile,  for  a  distance  of  3£  miles.  They  can 
be  modified,  however,  and  reduced,  without  rock-cutting,  so  as  not  to  exceed,  perhaps,  80  feet 
per  mile.  Abundance  of  water  can  be  got  by  digging  wells,  either  on  the  pass  or  on  the  Pacific 
slopes.  The  San  Bernardino  and  San  Gorgonio  mountains,  north  and  south  of  the  pass,  9,000 
and  6,000  feet  high,  afford  pine  and  fir  timber  at  about  one  quarter  the  distance  up  their 
slopes.  On  these  1wo  mountains  the  growth  of  timber  is  thick,  consisting  mostly  of  pine  and  fir. 

Should  it  be  considered  necessary  to  connect  the  harbor  of  San  Diego  (distant  about  120  miles) 
with  this  pass,  the  general  features  of  the  country  between  it  and  San  Luis  Rey  (about  75  miles) 
are  favorable  to  the  construction  of  a  railroad.  It  may  be  described  as  a  great  plain,  with  nume 
rous  hills  from  500  to  1,000  feet  in  height,  irregularly  distributed  on  its  surface,  sometimes 
assuming  the  form  of  a  range  several  miles  in  extent,  between  and  around  which  a  road  may  be 
carried  with  favorable  grades  without  expensive  cutting  and  filling.  It  is  plentifully  supplied 
with  water  and  fuel  and  good  building-stone.  From  San  Luis  Rey  to  San  Diego  (about  40 
or  45  miles)  the  unfavorable  topographical  feature  along  the  coast  is  the  numerous,  intricate,  deep 
gullies  cut  into  the  plain  by  its  drainage,  and  which  it  would  be  necessary  to  bridge — the  average 
width  to  be  bridged  being  between  100  feet  and  200  feet;  the  bridging  might  amount  to  one- 
fifth  or  one-tenth  of  the  whole  distance. 

We  have  now  reached  the  Pacific  slopes  and  harbors  which  will  at  least  afford  great  facilities 
in  the  construction  of  the  road  eastward,  and  which  should  be  connected  with  it.  The  harbor  of 
San  Diego  is  excellent,  but  not  capacious.  The  harbor  of  San  Pedro  is  entirely  open  to  the 
south  and  southeast,  the  quarter  from  which  the  sudden  storms  and  dangerous  winds  of  the  winter 
come.  Should  it  be  selected  as  the  depot  from  which  the  materials  and  supplies  for  the  con 
struction  of  the  road  eastward  to  the  Rio  Grande  are  to  be  drawn,  the  question  of  constructing 
a  breakwater  for  protection  against  the  winter  southeast  storms  should  be  considered.  It  would 
be  in  a  depth  of  30  feet. 

But  the  great  object  of  the  Pacific  railroad  will  not  be  accomplished  unless  a  connected  line 
can  be  had  to  the  best  harbor  on  its  coast,  that  of  San  Francisco. 

If  a  practicable  pass  exists  leading  from  the  plains  of  Los  Angeles  to  the  valley  of  the  Salinas 
river,  it  will  give  the  most  direct  route,  and  that  which  will  probably  require  the  least  ascent. 
A  party  is  now  making  the  explorations  and  surveys  to  solve  this  question.  With  the  present 
information,  San  Francisco  must  be  reached  by  crossing  the  Coast  range  to  the  Great  Basin, 
passing  over  its  southwestern  extremity,  (a  nearly  horizontal  plain,)  then  crossing  the  Sierra  Ne 
vada  and  descending  into  the  Tulares  valley.  From  the  western  extremity  of  the  San  Gorgonio 
Pass  two  routes  present  themselves  by  which  we  may  cross  the  Coast  range  and  reach  the 
Great  Basin.  The  nearest  is  the  Cajon  Pass,  which,  beginning  at  the  Pacific  side,  has,  over  the 


88  ROUTE    NEAR   THE    THIRTY-SECOND  PARALLEL. 

distance  of  1U  miles,  natural  slopes  varying  from  90  to  100,  117,  142,  159,  171  feet  per  mile; 
then  a  tunnel  is  requisite,  3  or  4  miles  long,  ascending  constantly  100  feet  per  mile,  the  ground 
at  the  highest  point  being  1,600  feet  above  the  tunnel.  Lieut.  Williamson  is  of  opinion  that  these 
high  grades  cannot  be  much  reduced  by  location  on  the  side-hills.  Lieut.  Whipple  thinks  that 
they  can. 

The  "  New  Pass,"  made  known  by  Lieutenant  Williamson's  explorations,  is  more  favorable 
than  the  Cajon.  It  is  along  the  headwaters  of  the  Santa  Clara  river,  to  reach  which  it  is  neces 
sary  to  cross  the  divide  between  one  of  its  tributaries  and  one  of  the  Los  Angeles  river,  through 
the  San  Fernando  Pass,  near  the  mission  of  San  Fernando.  From  San  Bernardino  to  the  mis 
sion  of  San  Fernando,  78  miles,  the  road  may  pass  over  a  country  requiring  gently  undulating 
grades,  and  in  other  respects  presenting  features  highly  favorable  to  its  construction.  There  is 
good  building-stone  and  plenty  of  water  and  fuel.  Ties  and  lumber  can  be  brought  from  the 
mountains.  The  soil  is  fertile  and  well  watered,  excepting  on  the  divides  and  in  some  elevated 
places  where  irrigation  must  be  resorted  to.  This  promises  to  be  a  highly  cultivated,  populous, 
and  rich  region  of  country.  A  branch  road  about  25  miles  long  to  San  Pedro  from  near  Los 
Angeles,  over  ground  favorable  to  cheap  construction,  will  enable  that  port  to  be  used  for  lum 
ber,  iron,  coal,  and  all  the  materials  and  supplies  for  the  construction  of  the  road  eastwardly. 

In  the  San  Fernando  Pass  the  natural  slopes  on  the  south  side  must  probably  be  followed,  as 
deep  ravines  cut  up  the  hills  on  either  side.  Rising  from  the  mission  of  San  Fernando  GOO  feet 
in  4.4  miles,  at  the  rate  of  about  155  feet  per  mile,  we  reach  a  point  where  a  tunnel  must  be  cut 
through  soft  sandstone,  one-third  of  a  mile  long,  at  an  elevation  of  1,746  feet.  We  then  have  a 
descending  grade  for  4  miles  of  115  feet  per  mile.  This  part  of  the  pass  is  narrow,  and  will 
require  side  and  other  heavy  cutting  in  earth.  Hence  to  the  point  where  the  grades  of  the  New 
Pass  are  given  on  the  profile  of  Lieutenant  Williamson  is  7  miles,  with  an  ascending  grade  of  55 
feet  per  mile. 

In  the  new  pass  an  excavation  in  drift,  (clay,  gravel,  &c.,)  40  or  50  feet  in  depth,  for  a.  short 
distance  at  the  summit,  and  a  side  location  which  will  not  require  much  cutting,  will  give  an 
average  grade  of  67  feet  per  mile  ;  the  natural  grades  without  side  location  are  55,  37,  58,  73,  62, 
70,  105,  and  77  feet  per  mile  for  22  miles  to  the  summit.  In  a  portion  of  the  approach,  about  one 
mile  in  length,  where  the  mountains  close  in  precipitously  and  the  stream  winds  abruptly,  it  may 
be  necessary  to  cut  two  or  three  short  tunnels  100  or  300  feet  long  through  slaty  granite.  The 
summit  of  the  pass  is  3,164  feet  above  the  sea.  East  of  it  for  a  distance  of  1.35  mile  the  direct 
natural  slope  is  steep,  240  and  218  feet  per  mile,  and  the  ground  will  require  cutting  and  filling 
to  adjust  the  grade  for  a  distance  of  at  least  three  miles  to  that  west  of  the  summit.  It  must 
probably  be  100  feet  per  mile.  From  this  point  to  the  elevation  which  will  probably  be  main 
tained  in  the  Great  Basin,  about  2,900  feet,  the  grade  may  be  any  that  is  desirable,  and  the 
ground  will  require  little  or  no  preparation  for  the  superstructure. 

The  San  Francisquilo  Pass  (on  one  of  the  main  tributaries  of  the  Santa  Clara  river)  is  more  direct 
than  the  New  Pass,  but,  if  not  positively  impracticable,  is  at  least  difficult,  and  the  grades  are 
excessive. 

Having  now  reached  the  Great  Basin,  we  have  several  passes  by  which  to  enter  the  Tulares 
valley. 

In  the  Canada  de  las  Uvas  Pass,  elevation  of  summit  4,256  feet,  the  average  slope  for  5$  miles 
from  the  summit  to  the  Tulares  valley  is  302  feet  per  mile,  the  maximum  being  345  feet  per  mile, 
and  the  minimum  229  feet  per  mile.  But  the  bounding  hills  are,  so  cut  up  with  deep  ravines,  that 
the  average  grade  cannot  be  had,  and  the  natural  slope  must  be  used. 

In  the  Tejon  Pass,  elevation  of  summit  5,285  feet,  beginning  at  the  western  entrance,  for  2.83 
miles  the  slope  is  173  feet  per  mile;  for  114  miles  the  average  slope  is  234  feet  per  mile,  sup 
posing  a  side  location;  then  a  tunnel  1.15  mile  long;  then  a  descending  slope  towards  the  Great 
Basin  of  205  feet  per  mile  for  6.4  miles,  supposing  a  side  location. 


ROUTE    NEAR   THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL.  89 

The  next  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  elevation  of  summit  4,020  feet;  ascending  to  it  from  the 
Tulares  valley  in  15 £  miles  with  natural  slopes,  varying  through  153,  176,  192,  (for  1J  mile,) 
119,  and  157  feet,  and  eight  feet  per  mile,  and  descending  towards  the  Great  Basin  nine  miles, 
at  80  feet  per  mile,  the  remaining  distance  being  with  gentle  grades. 

Walter's  Pass,  elevation  of  summit  5,302  feet,  requires  a  tunnel  of  four  miles,  has  a  slope  in 
ascending  to  the  summit  from  the  Great  Basin  of  265  feet  per  mile  for  six  miles,  of  272  feet  per 
mile  descending  for  6£  miles;  and  just  before  the  Kern  river  debouches  into  the  Tulares  valley, 
there  is  an  impracticable  canon  of  five  miles. 

It  is  very  evident  that  the  most  favorable  of  these  passes  is  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah.  From  the 
summit  to  the  Tulares  valley  a  side  location  in  earth-cutting  can  be  made,  giving  an  average 
grade  of  144  feet  per  mile  for  17  miles.  The  steep  grade  can  be  extended  four  miles  further, 
entering  the  Tulares  valley  at  a  lower  elevation  than  that  of  1,489  feet.  The  New  Pass  and  Tah- 
ee-chay-pah  Pass  may  be  connected  by  an  almost  horizontal  grade  around  the  border  of  the  Great 
Basin,  keeping  along  the  foot  of  the  eastern  slopes  for  about  25  miles,  where  supplies  of  water 
can  be  had  either  from  springs,  small  streams,  or  common  wells  or  artesian  wells;  then  crossing 
in  a  nearly  straight  line  to  the  entrance  of  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  descending  to  a  fine  spring 
of  water,  elevation  2,668  feet,  and  ascending  to  the  entrance,  elevation  3,300  feet,  and  at  a  dis 
tance  from  New  Pass  of  about  60  miles.  The  whole  of  this  surface  is  prepared  by  nature  to 
receive  the  superstructure  of  a  railroad.  It  has  two  intervals  of  13  and  17  miles  where  there  is 
no  water;  but  it  can  be  supplied  either  by  hauling  or  by  digging  or  boring  wells.  Fuel,  lies, 
lumber,  stone,  &c.,  over  this  distance  of  60  miles,  as  well  as  for  an  additional  distance  at  both 
ends,  must  come  from  the  adjoining  mountains,  where  it  is  abundant.  The  working  parties  over 
this  part  will  be  small. 

Having  entered  the  pass  at  an  elevation  of  3,300  feet,  there  will  be  12  miles  of  grade  at  the 
rate  of  22  feet  per  mile;  then,  as  before  stated,  nine  miles  at  SO  feet  per  mile.  The  ground 
admits  of  these  grades  being  arranged  to  suit  those  descending  to  the  Tulares  valley,  which 
commence  after  a  nearly  horizontal  grade  at  the  summit  for  7-^  miles.  From  the  manner  in 
which  these  two  passes  are  connected  by  an  almost  horizontal  line  after  descending  about  500 
feet  from  the  summit  of  New  Pass,  they  have,  combined,  the  disadvantages  attending  only  one 
pass,  with  a  summit  elevation  of  4,300  feet;  and  after  descending  the  Pacific  slopes  through 
the  San  Gorgonio  Pass  to  an  elevation  of  1,118  feet,  we  have  reached  the  Tulares  valley  by 
ascending  3,900  feet;  and  descending  again  to  an  elevation  of  about  1,500  feet  above  the  mean 
level  of  the  ocean.  From  the  head  of  the  Tulares  valley,  the  waters  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco, 
navigable  for  sea-going  vessels  of  large  draught,  may  be  attained  in  several  ways. 

The  eastern  side  of  the  Tulares  and  San  Joaquin  valleys  is  intersected  by  numerous  streams 
from  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  western  is  bounded  by  the  coast  chain,  and  has  few  streams. 
That  part  of  the  Tulares  valley  between  Kern  and  San  Joaquin  rivers,  a  space  of  150  miles 
having  a  soft  alluvial  soil,  is  at  certain  seasons  miry.  A  road,  therefore,  extending  though  it, 
should  keep  near  the  foot-slopes  of  the  mountains.  From  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass  to  the  best 
point  of  crossing  Kern  river,  2J^  miles,  the  route  passes  over  a  dry  dusty  plain,  destitute  of 
water  and  fuel,  the  soil  of  which  is  not  well  constituted  for  fertility.  The  elevation  at  the 
crossing  being  about  500  feet,  the  general  grade  will  be,  for  the  first  ten  miles,  78  feet  per  mile, 
and  for  the  remaining  eleven  and  a  half  miles,  18  feet  per  mile. 

From  the  crossing  of  Kern  river  to  the  second  crossing  of  the  San  Joaquin,  at  or  near  Gray- 
son's,  the  distance  is  (the  route  keeping  near  the  foot  of  the  mountains)  258  or  260  miles — the 
general  descending  grade  two  and  a  third  feet  per  mile.  The  numerous  river-beds  or  bottoms 
should  be  crossed  on  piles,  the  spaces  varying  from  50  to  300  feet,  the  greatest  width  of  the 
portions  to  be  spanned  not  exceeding  100  feet.  This  is  not  proposed  as  the  route  for  a  railroad, 
but  merely  to  give  a  general  idea  of  the  distance  and  character  of  country  which  separates  the 
head  of  the  Tulares  valley  from  the  navigable  \vaters  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  The  total 
12a 


90  ROUTE    NEAR   THE    THIRTY  SECOND  PARALLEL. 

distance  from  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass  to  the  Straits  of  Martinez  is  354  miles,  following  the 
route  travelled  by  Lieutenant  Williamson ;  but  the  location  distance  of  a  railroad  would  be  288 
miles. 

The  most  direct  route  to  San  Francisco  from  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  will  be  found  through 
one  of  the  passes  known  to  exist  in  the  mountain  range  separating  the  San  Joaquin  valley  from 
those  of  the  Salinas  river  and  San  Jose  river.  The  distance  through  them  is  about  ten  miles ;  the 
elevation  of  their  summits  about  GOO  feet.  They  may  be  reached  from  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah 
Pass  by  passing  around  the  head  of  the  Tulares  valley  to  its  western  side,  or  by  keeping  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Tulares  valley  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  after  crossing  Kern  river ;  then  crossing 
the  valley,  in  doing  which  it  will  be  necessary  to  use  piling  for  the  distance  often  miles,  to  make 
a  sufficiently  firm  road-bed  over  the  soft,  miry,  alluvial  soil.  The  distance  to  the  port  of  San 
Francisco,  by  this  route,  from  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass,  is  about  288  miles.  The  average 
grades,  except  through  the  short  pass,  will  be  two  or  three  feet  per  mile. 

The  soil  of  the  Tulares  and  San  Joaquin  valleys  is  well  constituted  for  fertility,  and  needs 
merely  the  proper  amount  of  water  to  be  highly  productive.  There  are  settlements  along  the 
eastern  side  of  these  valleys  under  the  mountains.  The  San  Jos6  valley  is  one  of  the  best  culti 
vated  and  most  populous  districts  of  California. 

Sufficient  water  and  fuel  for  working  parties  can  be  found  at  convenient  distances  on  this 
section,  and  lumber  and  good  building-stone  at  various  points  along  the  line  in  the  mountains, 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  from  the  foot  of  their  western  slopes. 

The  sum  of  ascents,  therefore,  between  the  summit  of  the  San  Bernardino  Pass  and  the  port 
of  San  Francisco  is  4,516  feet,  (supposing  the  height  of  the  pass  through  the  coast  mountains 
600  feet,)  the  distance  521  miles. 

This  portion  of  the  route  is  generally  of  a  different  character  from  that  east  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  and  Coast  ranges.  Its  topographical  features,  except  the  mountain  passes,  are  favorable 
to  the  cheap  construction  of  a  railroad.  The  comparative  proximity  throughout  the  line  of  forests 
of  pine  and  other  trees,  of  good  building-stone,  and  other  materials  for  construction ;  of  supplies 
of  water  and  fuel  for  the  working  parties  ;  the  fertility  of  the  soil  along  large  portions  of  the 
route,  which  by  irrigation  from  unemployed  mountain  streams  may  be  made  productive, — these 
circumstances,  together  with  the  population  already  occupying  certain  portions  of  the  route,  afford 
the  means  of  estimating  how  far  the  cost  of  the  construction,  and  working  of  the  road,  will  exceed 
that  under  nearly  similar  topographical  circumstances  in  the  eastern  States,  so  far  as  similarity 
of  topographical  features  can  exist  between  countries  of  such  different  formations. 

The  mountain  passes  are  of  a  favorable  character,  their  only  objectionable  feature  being  their 
high  grades.  Excepting  at  a  few  points,  and  for  short  distances  not  exceeding  a  mile  or  two  at 
a  time,  they  do  not  require  heavy  embankments,  or  difficult  bridging,  or  heavy  side-cutting  in 
rock  or  even  in  earth.  The  only  rock-cutting  needed  is  that  at  the  summit  of  the  San  Fernando 
Pass,  through  soft  sandstone  one-third  of  a  mile,  and  in  the  New  Pass,  where,  for  the  space  of 
a  mile,  two  or  three  tunnels,  100  and  300  feet  in  length,  through  slaty  granite,  will  probably  be 
required,  with  a  cutting  of  43  feet  in  clay,  granite,  &c.,  at  the  summit,  for  no  great  distance. 

The  construction,  however,  will  cost  more  per  mile  in  this  distance  of  521  miles,  than  between 
the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Rio  Grande.  In  regard  to  the  grades,  there  is  on  the  Baltimore  and 
Ohio  railroad  a  grade  of  117  feet  per  mile  for  a  length  of  17  miles.  A  24-ton  engine,  on  six 
drivers,  can  draw  a  train  containing  two  hundred  passengers,  with  100  pounds  of  baggage 
each,  in  the  worst  condition  of  the  rail,  up  a  grade  of  221  feet  per  mile,  and  a  train  of  three 
hundred  passengers  and  baggage  up  a  grade  of  150  feet  per  mile. 

The  maximum  loads  are  rarely  carried  over  long  roads.  Even  supposing  twenty-ton  engines 
used,  with  maximum  loads  for  the  grades  over  other  portions  of  the  road,  it  would  merely  be 
necessary  to  divide  the  load  into  three  parts  to  pass  a  grade  of  150  feet  to  the  mile,  over  the  dis 
tances  through  which  they  extend,  supposing  the  load  previously  adjusted  to  a  grade  of  40  feet 


ROUTE   NEAR    THE   THIRTY-SECOND   PARALLEL.  91 

per  mile :  in  other  words,  to  reduce  a  grading  of  150  feet  to  the  mile,  to  one  of  40  feet  to  the 
mile,  the  expense  of  two  additional  engines,  and  the  cost  of  working  them  through  the  pass, 
must  be  added. 

For  more  detailed  information  in  regard  to  this,  I  refer  to  the  memoranda  and  tables  prepared 
by  Capt.  McClellan,  Corps  of  Engineers,  and  the  following  extract  from  the  report  of  Allan 
Campbell,  Esq.,  an  able  American  engineer,  upon  the  railroad  from  Valparaiso  to  Santiago. 

EXTRACT    FROM     THE    REPORT    OF     ALLAN     CAMPBELL,    ESQ.,    CHIEF     ENGINEER   OF     THE    VALPA 
RAISO    AND    SANTIAGO    RAILROAD. 

"From  the  known  topography  of  Chili,  and  particularly  from  the  facts  stated  in  the  preceding 
pages,  it  will  naturally  be  inferred  that  a  railroad  route  from  Valparaiso  to  Santiago  is  only  to 
be  obtained  by  resorting  to  gradients  of  extreme  acclivity. 

In  no  country  where  railroads  have  yet  been  constructed  are  more  gigantic  physical  obstacles 
encountered.  I  refer  particularly  to  the  elevations  to  be  overcome,  and  not  to  the  labor  or  cost 
of  constructing  the  road,  because  in  this  respect  it  presents  a  very  favorable  aspect.  The  only 
alpine  region  where  this  species  of  improvement  has  yet  been  extensively  introduced,  is  that  of 
the  eastern  part  of  North  America.  There  the  Alleghany  mountains,  stretching  along  the  At 
lantic  coast  from  two  to  three  hundred  miles  inland,  separate  that  ocean  from  the  rich  and  exten 
sive  valley  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  trade  and  commerce  of  this  vast  western  region  has  long  been  the  aim  of  the  principal 
cities  situated  on  the  Atlantic.  In  the  various  works  of  canals  and  railroads  constructed  for  the 
purpose,  nearly  two  hundred  millions  of  dollars  have  been  expended.  Stimulated  by  the  great 
prize  held  out,  the  resources  of  States  and  cities  have  been  bountifully  applied ;  private  capital 
has  been  unsparingly  devoted,  while  the  genius  and  skill  of  engineers^  have  been  developed  in 
the  noble  rivalry. 

Boston,  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Charleston,  and  Savannah,  have  all  engaged  in 
the  construction  of  railroads  leading  westward.  Some  of  these  lines  are  now  completed,  and 
others  are  approaching  their  termination.  As  these  works  pass  over  a  country  bearing  a  strong 
resemblance  in  its  topography  to  that  part  of  Chili  now  under  consideration,  some  notice  of  their 
principal  features  will  not  be  uninteresting. 

Without  entering  into  minutias,  it  may  be  stated,  that  the  several  routes  are  from  three  hun 
dred  to  five  hundred  miles  in  length,  amounting  in  the  aggregate  to  about  twenty-five  hundred 
miles  ;  and,  wonderful  to  relate,  this  vast  extent  of  road  is  carried  over  such  an  elevated  region 
without  a  single  inclined  plane,  worked  by  stationary  power.  Some  of  the  lines  were  originally 
operated  in  this  manner,  but  they  have  been  made  to  give  place  to  gradients  suited  to  the  loco 
motive  engine.  This  fact  will  show  the  great  importance  attached  to  this  consideration  in  a 
country  where  routes  affording  the  cheapest  and  most  rapid  method  of  transport  are  aimed  at. 

The  route  from  Boston  passes  over  a  summit  1,500  feet  above  the  ocean,  with  a  maximum 
gradient  of  83  feet  per  mile.  Two  roads  lead  from  the  city  of  New  York  to  the  western 
waters;  one  through  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  river,  with  a  summit  of  only  650  feet  above 
tide,  and  a  maximum  grade  of  30  feet  per  mile ;  and  another,  (the  Erie  railroad)  whose  highest 
point  is  1,700  feet  above  the  Atlantic,  on  which  grades  of  70  feet  per  mile  are  adopted. 

Proceeding  southerly,  the  mountains  attain  a  higher  elevation,  and  the  routes  from  Philadel 
phia  and  Baltimore  are  carried  over  very  elevated  summits ;  that  of  the  former  being  2,400  feet, 
with  gradients  of  95  feet  per  mile,  and  the  latter  about  2,600  or  2,700  feet,  with  a  maximum 
gradient  of  116  feet.  As  this  latter  work  so  closely  resembles  the  Santiago  road,  I  shall  have 
occasion,  presently,  more  particularly  to  speak  of  it. 

Proceeding  still  farther  south,  the  mountains  again  decline,  and  the  Charleston  and  Savannah 
routes  cross  them  at  an  elevation  of  1,500  feet  with  very  moderate  grades,  not  exceeding  40 
feet  per  mile. 


92 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL. 


Except  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad,  (one  of  the  lines  above  mentioned)  the  exact  height 
of  whose  summit  I  cannot  state,  none  of  these  great  thoroughfares  pass  over  ground  so  much 
elevated  above  the  sea  as  the  Santiago  route  ;  mid  as  all,  in  this  respect,  far  exceed  the  works 
of  other  countries,  it  ma}'  safely  be  said  that  the  route  described  in  these  pages  overcomes  a 
greater  elevation  than  has  yet  been  surmounted  by  railroad,  (except  perhaps  in  one  instance,) 
throughout  the  world.  But  the  Santiago  route  is  superior  to  most  of  the  American  roads  above 
enumerated  in  one  respect.  In  approaching  to,  and  departing  from  their  main  summits,  those 
roads  cross  over  numerous  secondary  ranges  and  deep  intervening  valleys,  which  makes  the 
aggregate  rise  and  fall  much  greater  than  the  Santiago  road,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  following 
table : 


'a 

V 

£  « 

3 

V 

o 

g  « 

T-J 

as 

Road. 

a 

a 

|l' 

a 

a> 

Remarks. 

A 

°5  ° 

;-i 

3 

a 
S 

H 

3 

'o 

33 

i 

W 

H 

S 

500 

1,440 

4,700 

83 

New  York  route,  (Central)  ...... 

440 

650 

2,100 

30 

New  York  route  (Erie)   ........ 

460 

1  ,  720 

6,500 

70 

340 

2,400 

5,600 

95 

390 

2,600 

) 

( 

or 
2,700 

V7.000 

116^ 

Rise  and  fall,  and  sum 
mit,  supposed. 

Charleston  route    ......  ....  .... 

490 

1,400 

5,000 

40 

Rise  and  fall  supposed 

440 

1,400 

5,  000 

40 

Do             do 

110 

2,640 

4,340 

119 

Although  the  total  elevation  surmounted  by  European  railroads  is  much  less  than  in  the  cases 
above  cited,  yet  even  there,  in  some  instances,  inclinations  equal  to  the  maximum  gradient  of 
the  Santiago  road  are  now  introduced,  and  overcome  by  locomotive  power.  Two  or  three 
instances  may  be  mentioned. 

In  a  work  entitled  "  The  Practical  Railway  Engineer,"  published  at  London,  in  the  year  1847, 
is  the  following  description  of  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  railroad: 

"  The  gradients  vary  from  one  in  880  (six  feet  per  mile,)  to  one  in  5,456  (about  one  foot  per 
mile,)  except  one  incline  of  one  mile,  fourteen  chains  in  length,  which  descends  from  the  Cowlairs 
towards  the  Glasgow  station,  at  the  rate  of  one  in  forty-three  (123  feet  per  mile,)  and  has  hitherto 
been  worked  by  stationary  steam-engines,  which  are  now,  or  are  about  to  be,  replaced  by  Ameri 
can  locomotive  engines." 

Dr.  Lardner,  a  distinguished  writer  on  various  scientific  and  practical  subjects,  in  a  late  work 
entitled  "  Railway  Economy  in  Europe  and  America,"  after  giving  a  table  of  the  German  rail 
ways,  says  :  "  In  the  first  and  third  columns  of  this  table  are  given  the  characteristic  or  prevailing 
gradients  and  radii ;  and  in  the  second  and  fourth  columns  are  given  those  which  occur  only 
exceptionally,  when  the  character  of  the  ground  rendered  them  inevitable.  In  some  cases — as, 
for  example,  in  the  section  of  the  railway  constructed  from  Brunswick  to  Harburgh,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Elbe,  facing  Hamburgh — the  prevailing  gradient  is  1  in  166  (32  feet  per  mile;)  but 
in  one  section  of  this  line,  extending  over  a  distance  of  about  five  miles,  being  the  section  between 
Hamburgh  and  the  station  of  Weinenburgh,  there  is  a  series,  of  gradients  which  vary  from  1  in 
100  (53  feet  per  mile,)  to  1  in  50  (106  feet  per  mile.)  No  practical  difficulty,  however,  is 
encountered  in  the  regular  working  of  this  part  of  the  line  by  locomotives  without  assistant 
engines.  Trains  of  an  average  gross  weight  of  sixty  or  seventy  tons  are  drawn  over  this  section 
by  locomotives  whose  weight  does  not  exceed  eighteen  tons,  having  six  coupled  wheels  of  four 
feet  nine  inches  in  diameter." 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL.  93 

In  the  table   mentioned,  the  maximum  gradient  of  the  Brunswick  and  Harburgh  railway  is 
stated  at  1  in  43  (123  feet  per  mile,)  and  those  of  Wurtemburgh  at  1  in  45  (117  feet  per  mile.) 
*********** 

The  grades  of  the  Santiago  railroad,  though  heavy,  are,  in  comparison  with  others  which  have 
been  cited,  not  unfavorable ;  a.nd  we  find  on  analyzing  the  expense  of  operating  a  railroad,  that 
the  cost  of  motive  power  is  only  a  fractional  part  of  the  whole.  It  is  sufficient  for  our  present 
purpose  to  know  that  important  railroads  in  other  countries,  with  gradients  equal  to  those  of 
the  Santiago  route,  have  been,  and  now  are,  successfully  and  profitably  conducted.  One  import 
ant  fact  in  this  connexion  is,  that  the  line  now  under  consideration  will  be  free  from  the  evils 
resulting  from  snow  and  ice,  which  diminish  the  adhesion  of  the  engine  to  the  rails,  and  reduce  its 
effective  power.  Snow  rarely  lies  even  at  the  highest  level  over  which  this  route  is  conducted. 
*****  **  **** 

It  will  naturally  occur  to  many  that  the  descent  of  trains  on  gradients  of  such  great  declivity, 
with  perfect  security  to  the  lives  and  limbs  of  passengers,  is  quite  as  important  a  consideration 
as  their  ascent  with  profitable  loads.  The  accounts  which  follow,  founded  on  fact  and  official 
information,  afford  the  most  satisfactory  evidence  on  this  point. 

A  branch  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad,  in  the  United  States,  has  gradients  of  135  feet 
per  mile,  which  are  worked  entirely  by  locomotive  engines.  The  descent  is  made  with  heavy 
loads  in  perfect  safety,  and  a  single  engine  takes  up  regularly  a  gross  load  of  66  tons,  exclusive 
of  the  engine  and  tender.  On  one  road  in  the  State  of  New  York  a  short  gradient  of  175  feet  per 
mile  is  descended  daily  with  passenger  trains. 

The  superintendent  of  the  Baltimore  and  Susquehanna  railroad,  an  important  line  both  for 
freight  and  passengers,  writes  as  follows  :  "We  have  one  grade  of  eighty-four  feet  per  mile,  three 
miles  in  length.  Over  this  grade  a  locomotive  weighing  26  tons  hauls,  at  the  rate  of  twelve  miles 
an  hour,  forty  (four-wheel)  cars,  each  containing  three  tons  of  produce — the  cars  themselves 
weighing  114  tons — making  a  gross  load  of  234  tons." 

The  most  interesting  and  analogous  case,  however,  to  which  I  can  refer,  is  that  of  the  Balti 
more  and  Ohio  railroad,  one  of  the  great  lines  of  the  United  States  alluded  to  in  a  previous  part 
of  this  article,  as  connecting  the  sea-board  with  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  across  the  Alle- 
ghan}r  mountains. 

In  the  year  1550,477,000  tons  of  merchandise  and  180,000  passengers  were  transported  on  this 
road,  the  receipts  amounting  to  $1,343,000,  the  road  being  only  about  half  completed.  When 
finished  to  the  Ohio  river,  its  receipts  are  expected  to  amount  to  $3,000,000.  On  this  road  are 
heavj'-  gradients,  with  several  curves  of  six  hundred  feet  radius,  and  some  of  four  hundred  feet. 
It  is  to  the  mountain  district  of  the  road  just  opened  that  I  wish  particularly  to  invite  attention; 
and  for  this  purpose  an  extract  is  made  from  the  official  report  of  the  chief  engineer,  Mr. 
Latrobe,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  engineers  of  North  America,  in  which  he  describes  the 
route  and  grades  over  the  Alleghany  mountains: 

"At  about  a  mile  below  this  last  point,  the  high  grade  of  116  feet  per  mile  begins  and  con 
tinues  about  11£  miles,  crossing  the  Potomac  from  Virginia  into  Maryland  near  the  beginning 
of  the  grade,  and  thence  ascending  the  steep  side-slopes  of  Savage  river  and  Crab  Tree  creek 
to  the  summit  at  the  head  of  the  latter,  a  total  distance  of  about  fifteen  miles,  upon  the  last  three 
and  a  half  of  which  the  grade  is  reduced  to  about  100  feet  per  mile.  From  the  summit  the 
line  passes  for  about  nineteen  miles  through  the  level  and  beautiful  tract  of  country  so  well  known 
as  the  Glades,  and  near  their  western  border  the  route  crosses  the  Maryland  boundary  at  a  point 
about  sixty  miles  from  Cumberland,  and  passes  into  the  State  of  Virginia,  in  whose  territory  it 
continues  thence  to  the  terminus  on  the  Ohio.  From  the  Glades  the  line  descends  by  a  grade 
of  116  feet  per  mile  for  eight  and  a  half  miles,  and  over  very  rugged  ground,  and  thence  three 
miles  further  to  Cheat  river,  which  it  crosses  at  the  mouth  of  Salt  Lick  creek.  The  route, 
immediately  after  crossing  this  river,  ascends  along  the  broken  slopes  of  the  Laurel  Hill  by  a 


94  ROUTE    NEAR    THE   THIKTY-SECOND   PARALLEL. 

grade  of  105  feet  per  mile  for  five  miles,  to  the  next  summit,  passing  the  dividing  ridge  by  a  tun 
nel  of  4,100  feet  in  length,  and  whence,  after  three  miles  of  light  grade,  a  descent  by  the  grade 
of  1 05  feet  per  mile  for  five  miles  is  made  to  the  valley  of  Racoon  creek,  by  which,  and  the 
valley  of  the  Three  Forks  creek,  the  Tygart's  Valley  river  is  reached  in  fourteen  miles  more,  at 
t4ie  Turnpike  bridge  above  described,  and  103£  miles  from  Cumberland." 

The  foregoing  extract  exhibits  in  a  few  words  the  physical  obstacles  to  be  overcome.  It  will 
be  seen  that  a  gradient  of  116  feet  per  mile,  both  ascending  and  descending,  is  required — in  the 
aggregate  amounting  to  twenty  miles — and  that  in  both  directions  there  are  also  thirteen  miles 
more  with  gradients  exceeding  100  feet  per  mile." 

Two  important  remarks  upon  the  characteristics  of  the  railroad  from  Valparaiso  to  Santiago, 
which  will  be  found  in  the  preceding  extract  from  the  report  of  Allan  Campbell,  Esq.,  are  equally 
applicable  to  the  route  of  the  32d  parallel.  The  first  is  the  favorable  character  of  the  approaches 
to  the  mountains,  by  which  no  numerous  secondary  ranges  and  deep  intervening  valleys  are  to 
be  crossed,  as  in  the  railroads  crossing  the  Alleghany  mountains;  and  the  second  is,  that  the  line 
will  be  free  from  the  evils  resulting  from  snow  and  ice,  which  diminish  the  adhesion  of  the 
engine  to  the  rails,  and  reduce  its  effective  power.  Not  only  are  these  two  remarks  fully  appli 
cable  to  the  route  of  the  32d  parallel,  but  the  features  of  the  mountain  passes  are  even  more 
favorable  than  those  of  the  route  discussed  by  Mr.  Campbell. 

There  will  be  more  snow  and  ice  in  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass  than  in  any  other  on  the 
route  of  the  32d  parallel ;  but  there  is  no  probability  of  their  being  found  in  sufficient  quantity 
to  obstruct  in  the  least  the  working  of  the  road.  In  the  absence  of  positive  information  upon 
this  point,  the  examination  which  follows  may  give  some  general  indication  of  the  climate  there. 

The  absence  of  snow  and  ice  in  these  passes  is  especially  important  with  the  high  grades  pro 
posed  to  be  used.  These  can  in  every  instance,  except  one,  (the  San  Fernando  Pass,  over  four  and 
perhaps  eight  miles,)  be  reduced  by  side  location  to  grades  in  use  on  several  principal  railroads.  But 
cars  are  carried  safely  over  grades  nearly  double  the  greatest  here  proposed  for  temporary  use, 
and  the  increased  cost  of  employing  additional  engines  over  these  portions  of  the  road  is  not  in  the 
least  serious,  compared  with  the  additional  expense  and  loss  of  time  required  to  secure  easier 
gradients. 

The  winter  temperature  of  San  Francisco  is  50°  Fahrenheit.  The  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass  is 
about  3°  south  of  San  Francisco,  and  at  the  same  level  would  have  a  winter  temperature  of  53°. 
The  elevation  being  4,000  feet,  would  give,  by  the  usual  rule,  a  temperature  from  13°  to  15° 
lower,  or  a  mean  winter  temperature  of  40°  or  38°.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  it  is  some 
what  lower  than  this,  which  is  about  the  mean  winter  temperature  of  Fort  Monroe,  Old  Point 
Comfort,  Chesapeake  bay.  The  mean  winter  temperature  of  Charleston  is  50°,  and  that  of  the 
summit  elevation  of  the  railroad  route  westward  to  the  Mississippi,  1,400  feet  above  the  sea, 
is  about  45°. 

The  mean  winter  temperature  of  Fort  McHenry,  Baltimore  harbor,  is  32°.7;  that  of  the  sum 
mit  elevation  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad,  2,600  feet  above  the  sea,  should  be  about  24°, 
which  is  14°  or  16°  lower  than  that  obtained  for  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass. 

There  is  deep  snow  in  the  Tejon  Pass,  but  from  the  open  character  of  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah 
Pass,  and  its  greater  distance  from  the  junction  of  the  two  chains  of  mountains,  the  snow  and  ice 
found  there  will  not  probably  be  seriously  disadvantageous. 


GENERAL    REVIEW. 


Among  the  general  considerations  which  determine  the  position  of  the  route  near  the  32d 
parallel,  the  most  prominent  are  the  low  elevation  of  the  mountain  passes,  and  their  favorable 
topographical  features,  as  well  as  those  of  the  table-lands,  embracing  over  1,000  miles  of  the 
route;  the  favorable  character  of  the  surface  generally,  by  which  the  most  costly  item  of  con 
struction  in  railroads,  the  formation  of  the  road-bed,  is  in  a  great  measure  avoided ;  the  short- 


ROUTE  NEAR  THE  THIRTY- SECOND  PARALLEL.  95 

ness  of  the  line,  1,600  miles,  from  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  and  the 
temperate  climate  on  the  elevated  portions  in  this  southern  latitude. 

The  principal  characteristic  of  this  route  is  the  great  extent  of  high,  arid,  smooth,  and  nearly 
horizontal  table-lands  which  it  traverses,  reaching  an  elevation  of  4,000  feet  upon  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  Brazos  and  Colorado  rivers  of  Texas,  near  which  elevation  it  continues  until  it 
descends  from  the  pass  of  the  Sierra  de  Santa  Catarina  to  the  Gila  river,  a  space  of  nearly  600 
miles. 

The  elevation  at  the  summit  of  the  Llano  Estacado  is  4,700  feet,  and  in  the  passes  of  the  Gua- 
dalupe  and  Hueco  mountains,  east  of  the  Rio  Grande,  5,700  and  4,800  feet  respectively.  Between 
the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Gila,  the  greatest  elevation,  which  is  twice  attained,  is  5,200  feet; 
the  mean  elevation  before  the  descent  to  the  Gila  is  commenced  being  4,100  feet. 

From  the  eastern  edge  of  the  Llano  Estacado  to  the  pass  of  San  Gorgonio,  1,052  miles,  the 
route  crosses  three  rivers — the  Pecos,  the  Rio  Grande,  and  the  Great  Colorado  of  the  West. 

The  peculiar  features  of  the  arid  region  over  which  the  route  lies,  from  the  eastern  edge  of  the 
Llano  Estacado  to  the  summit  of  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass,  have  been  sufficiently  explained  in  the 
detailed  topographical  review  already  given  of  each  portion  of  this  route.  Those  very  charac 
teristics  which  were  thought  to  offer  the  greatest  obstacles  to  the  construction  of  a  railroad, 
prove,  when  closely  examined,  the  most  favorable,  since  they  have  obviated  the  necessity  of 
much  of  that  most  costly  item  in  railroad  construction,  the  preparation  of  the  road-bed  for  the 
superstructure.  Throughout  the  distance  of  1,052  miles,  with  few  and  limited  exceptions,  this 
preparation  is  already  made  by  nature,  and  quite  as  perfectly  as,  if  not  better  than,  it  could  be  done 
by  the  hand  of  man.  This  item  alone  usually  amounts  to  from  one-half  to  two-thirds  and  some 
times  three-fourths  of  the  whole  cost  of  a  railroad. 

The  mode  and  probable  cost  of  obtaining  supplies  of  water  over  these  dry  regions  have  been 
pointed  out  and  will  be  subjected  to  practical  tests.  Even  if  these  should  fail  (of  which  there  is 
no  probability)  in  bringing  the  required  supplies  to  the  surface,  the  permanent  streams  and  large 
springs  already  existing  are  at  distances  sufficiently  near  for  the  purposes  of  a  railroad,  special 
arrangements  having  been  made  to  meet  the  difficulty. 

For  a  20-ton  engine,  on  four  drivers,  wood  and  water,  if  carried  with  the  train  for  25  miles, 
weigh  about  ^th  of  the  maximum  load  on  a  level,  and  for  100  miles  ^d  part;  with  coal  and 
water  the  proportions  are,  for  25  arid  100  miles  y^l-h  and  ^gth;  but  as  the  load  usually  carried 
on  freight  and  passenger  trains  is  much  below  the  maximum,  we  may  safely  assume  that  the 
trains  (freight  and  passenger)  can  carry  fuel  and  water  sufficient  for  100  miles  over  grades  not 
exceeding  30  or  40  feet  without  additional  cost,  the  maximum  load  of  this  engine  on  grades  of 
40  feet,  in  the  best  condition  of  rail,  being  252  tons,  and  in  the  worst  condition  180  tons. 

That  required  for  the  use  of  the  \vorking  parties  can  be  hauled  without  seriously  enhancing  the 
cost  of  the  road,  for  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  working  parties  will  be  small  over  those  por 
tions  of  the  route  where  the  road-bed  has  been  already  prepared  by  nature.  We  have  seen, 
too,  that  fuel  for  culinary  purposes  for  the  working  parties  will  probably  be  found  over  the 
greater  part  of  these  regions;  and  where  it  cannot  be  found  conveniently,  that  it  can  be  supplied 
from  points  so  near  to  the  work  that  its  cost  will  not  exceed  double  that  of  fuel  for  the  same  pur 
poses  in  the  eastern  States. 

From  the  eastern  limit  of  the  Llano  Estacado  to  the  Pacific,  1,200  miles,  the  plan  of  building 
the  road  has  been  indicated  so  as  to  secure  the  greatest  economy  of  time  and  means.  Three 
points  remain  to  be  considered:  the  mode  and  cost  of  supplying  ties  and  lumber  generally;  the 
mode  and  cost  of  supplying  fuel;  and  the  manner  in  which  the  daily  examination  of  the  road 
can  be  made  and  the  rails  adjusted  and  protected. 


96  ROUTE   NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND  PARALLEL. 

TIES LUMBER. 

Let  us  assume  the  most  unfavorable  case  for  supplies  of  ties  and  lumber  over  tbat  portion 
of  the  route  between  the  eastern  limit  of  the  Llano  Estacado  and  the  summit  of  the  San  Gorgonio 
Pass,  1,052  miles — that  is,  that  they  must  be  brought  from  either  end  of  the  road,  say  300  miles 
from  the  eastern  limit  of  the  Llano  Estacado  and  from  the  port  of  San  Pedro  on  the  Pacific, 
100  miles  from  the  summit  of  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass,  making  the  points  of  supply  1,400  miles 
apart:  the  greatest  distance  to  which  they  must  be  transported  from  each  end  is,  therefore,  700 
miles  by  the  road,  the  point  of  junction  of  supplies  from  the  east  and  west  being  about  110  miles 
west  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Lumber  can,  undoubtedly,  be  procured  in  the  Red  River  district 
for  $30  per  1,000  feet.  The  additional  cost  for  transportation  to  the  Llano,  300  miles  by 
the  railroad,  at  three  cents  per  ton  per  mile,  (double  the  usual  cost  on  eastern  railroads)  is 
S13£,  and  its  cost  there  $43i  per  1,000  feet;  the  cost  per  1,000  feet  for  450  miles  additional 
transportation  is  $20,  and  hence  the  cost  per  1,000  feet  at  this  extreme  point  will  be  $63  J.  The 
mean  cost  over  these  400  or  450  miles  from  the  eastern  limit  of  the  Llano  Estacado  will  be 
$52£  per  1,000  feet.  From  Fulton  to  the  Llano  it  is  unnecessary  to  estimate  its  cost. 

Lumber  may  be  delivered  at  San  Pedro  or  San  Diego  from  Oregon  for  $30  per  1,000  feet. 
Abundance  of  it  can  be  got  out  from  the  San  Bernardino  and  other  mountains  near  the  line  of 
the  road  at  that  cost,  and  it  may  be  assumed,  therefore,  to  be  supplied  at  San  Pedro  or  San 
Diego  at  that  price,  and  at  a  mean  cost  over  the  road  (the  road  supplying  itself,  as  it  must  do, 
sections  of  40  or  50  miles  being  built  at  a  time)  of  $46  per  1,000  feet.  The  ties  should  be 
sawed  to  the  smallest  dimensions,  if  they  must  be  transported  to  the  distances  stated.  The 
dimensions  may  be  six  inches  by  eight  inches,  and  their  mean  cost  over  these  1,200  miles  will  be 
about  $34  per  1,000  feet,  or  the  cost  of  ties  per  mile  $1,760.  It  may  be  found  desirable  to  return 
to  the  use  of  stone  chairs,  or  to  resort  to  cast-iron  ties  over  this  portion  of  the  route.  The  latter 
would  cost  at  eastern  prices  about  $2  per  tie. 

The  mean  cost  of  rails,  iron,  &c.,  over  this  route  will  not  exceed,  if  it  equals,  $30  per  ton  more 
than  their  usual  cost  in  the  eastern  States.  Haulage  from  temporary  termini  of  railroad  to 
unfinished  line  of  road  will  be  about  double  that  in  the  eastern  States;  and,  indeed,  this  appears 
to  be  about  the  mean  proportion  of  increase  on  these  great  table-lands. 

The  worst  case  having  been  discussed,  it  remains  to  be  said,  that  good  ties  and  lumber  can  be 
obtained  from  the  Guadalupe  and  Hueco  mountains,  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Rio  Mimbres, 
from  the  Pinal  Lleno,  Salinas  river  and  headwaters  of  the  San  Francisco,  and  from  the  San 
Bernardino  mountains  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  or  Coast  range,  which  sources  of  supply  may  be 
found  to  materially  obviate  the  necessity  of  transporting  lumber  from  the  two  ends  of  the  road. 

FUEL. 

Bituminous  coal  is  abundant  on  the  Brazos.  The  coal  of  Vancouver's  island,  and  also  of  Puge 
sound,  is  excellent.  Last  summer  a  cargo  was  brought  to  San  Francisco  from  Puget  sound  at 
a  cost  of  $11  per  ton;  $4  per  ton  being  for  freight,  and  $7  per  ton  for  mining  and  handling.  It 
costs  at  present  prices  $5  per  ton  to  mine  it.  This  at  no  distant  period  will,  doubtless,  be  reduced 
to  $1  or  $2  per  ton,  and  it  can  be  delivered  at  San  Pedro  or  San  Diego  at  $7  per  ton.  On  the 
Brazos  it  can  be  mined  and  prepared  for  transportation  at  $1  per  ton.  From  the  Brazos  to  San 
Pedro  is  1,400  miles.  At  three  cents  per  ton  per  mile,  (double  the  usual  cost,)  we  have  it  at 
the  foot  of  the  Llano  at  $7  per  ton,  and  the  mean  cost  per  ton  over  the  1,200  miles,  $16. 

In  regard  lo  transporting  wood  for  fuel  for  locomotives,  as  1,300  pounds  of  coal  make  as  much 
steam  as  4,500  pounds  of  pine  wood,  coal  can  be  transported  three  and  a  half  times  as  far  as 
wood,  other  things  being  equal. 

The  cost  of  fuel  on  railroads  is  about  one-fifth  of  the  yearly  expense  of  maintaining  and  work 
ing  the  road. 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL.  97 

GENERAL    REMARKS. 

It  may  be  found  desirable  to  establish  a  depot  of  supplies  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gila,  255 
miles  distant  from  San  Pedro.  The  report  of  a  reconnaissance  near  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado 
of  the  West,  with  a  view  to  its  navigation,  by  Lieutenant  Derby,  topographical  engineers,  shows 
that  the  navigation  of  this  river  to  the  head  of  tide-water,  40  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  difficult 
and  dangerous  from  the  rapid  rise  of  the  tide  called  bore.  Arnold's  Point,  35  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  by  the  windings  of  the  stream,  is  the  head  of  navigation  in  low  water  (Jan 
uary,  February,  and  March)  for  vessels  drawing  hine  feet.  Above  that  point,  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Gila,  the  least  water  is  three  feet,  and  the  river  may  be  navigated  at  any  season  by  steamers 
drawing  2%  feet  water.  The  channel  is  narrow,  and  the  current,  obstructed  with  small  snags 
and  sawyers,  is  always  rapid.  The  distance  from  Arnold's  Point  to  the  mouth  of  the  Gila  is 
between  70  and  100  miles.  The  rise  of  the  ordinary  spring  tides  at  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  is 
12  feet.  In  freshets  the  river  at  Arnold's  Point  rises  15  feet  above  low  water.  The  velocity  of 
the  current,  independent  of  that  caused  by  the  tide,  is  ordinarily  from  one  to  three  miles  per  hour, 
and  in  freshets  nearly  double  that.  Could  the  work  of  construction  be  commenced  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Gila  at  the  same  time  as  at  San  Pedro  and  the  other  terminus,  and  extended  east  and  west, 
it  would  hasten  the  completion  of  the  work. 

DAILY    INSPECTION    OF    THE    ROAD,   &C. 

Each  portion  of  a  railroad  is  thoroughly  examined  every  day,  and  such  adjustment  and  slight 
repair  made  as  can  be  done  by  a  single  hand.  One  man  attends  to  from  two  to  three  miles 
of  road.  From  1,000  to  1,300  miles  of  the  country  along  this  proposed  route  is  uninhabited, 
except  by  Indians.  Here  it  will  probably  be  found  necessary  to  establish  stations  at  every  20 
or  25  miles  distance,  capable  of  accommodating  40  men.  As  a  party  of  seven  or  eight  men  on 
any  portion  of  the  route,  with  the  facilities  of  a  hand  railroad  car,  may  be  considered  perfectly 
secure  against  Indians,  a  party  of  three  men  with  a  guard  of  five  will  be  able  to  inspect  and  adjust 
10  miles  of  a  single  track;  this  would  require  a  statbn  for  a  guard  of  25  or  30  men,  and  for 
eight  or  ten  employes  of  the  road,  every  20  miles.  Should  the  supplies  of  water  be  even  100  or 
150  miles  apart,  sufficient  could  be  carried  to  these  parties  without  extra  cost.  This  guard 
would  not  be  required  at  every  station ;  but  supposing  it  necessary  over  the  Indian  country  of 
1,000  miles,  it  would  amount  to  1,500  men.  As  on  many  of  the  European  railroads  the  average 
number  of  men  employed  solely  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  access  to  the  railroad  from  the 
cross-roads  of  the  country,  and  for  attending  to  signals,  &c.,  independent  of  those  employed  for 
switches,  daily  inspection  and  adjustment,  and  at  the  depots,  is  at  least  one  per  mile,  their  num 
ber  would  amount  on  a  road  of  2,000  miles  in  length,  to  2,000  men;  exceeding  that  required  for 
guarding  the  road.  Supposing  this  guard  employed  by  the  railroad  authorities,  it  would  not  be 
in  addition  to  the  usual  number  of  employes,  but  merely  a  change  of  their  duties  to  suit  new 
circumstances. 

It  is  desirable  to  have  stations  with  relays  of  engines,  cars,  &c.,  at  every  100  miles;  and  fa 
vorable  sites  for  those  will  be  found  on  this  route  at  about  the  required  distance  apart,  with  but 
two  exceptions — one  being  the  table  lands  west  of  the  Rio  Grande,  and  the  other  the  Colorado 
desert — where  the  distances  are  about  150  miles. 

But  considerations  of  this  kind,  within  certain  limits,  belong  rather  to  questions  of  nice 
economy  than  to  greater  or  less  difficuliy  of  working  the  road, 

SOIL,  &c. 

The  table-lands,  extending  from  the  cultivable  soil  of  Texas  westward,  have  generally  a 
growth  of  grama  grass.  The  principal  exceptions  are  a  large  portion  of  the  Llano  Estacado, 
and  for  70  miles  of  the  descent  to  the  Gila;  nor  is  grass  found  in  that  portion  of  the  valley  of 


98  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY  SECOND   PARALLEL. 

the  Gila  traversed  by  the  route,  although  the   soil  is  fertile;  nor  is  it  found  on  the  Colorado 
desert,  or  on  the  crossing  of  the  southwest  coiner  of  the  Great  Basin,  &c. 

The  soil  of  the  river  valleys  is  fertile,  but  for  cultivation  needs  irrigation.  After  leaving,  for 
the  first  time,  ihe  body  of  the  productive  soil  of  Texas,  we  have  the  valleys  of  the  Pecos,  Rio 
Grande,  Gila,  and  Colorado,  portions  of  whose  areas  possess  a  fertile  soil;  the  sum  ot  these 
exceeds  2,300  square  miles.  That  portion  of  California  west  and  south  of  the  coast  range  has  a 
soil  and  climate  which  will  admit  of  a  dense  population. 

GENERAL  ADVANTAGES  OF  THE  ROUTE. 

The  mineral  wealth  of  the  countries  near  the  32d  parallel  has  been  indicated  by  others,  and 
needs  no  other  mention. 

The  proposed  road  passes  near  the  northern  borders  of  the  Mexican  States,  or  departments  of 
Chihuahua  and  Sonera.  They  extend  noithward  from  latitude  27°  or  2SP  to  our  boundary. 
The  surface  is  generally  table-lands,  affording  good  grazing;  the  climate  is  agreeable.  The  s  >il 
of  the  river  valleys  is  fertile,  capable  of  producing,  when  irrigated,  wheat,  cotton,  &c.  Their 
wealth  is  principally  in  cattle  i'arms  and  mines  of  gold  and  silver.  The  area  is  280,000  square 
miles.  The  population  exceeds  300,000. 

Although  this  route  passes  near  the  frontier  of  Mexico,  yet  it  is  not  liable  to  objection  from  this 
circumstance,  since  we  control  the  frontier,  and  the  construction  of  the  road  would  probably  break 
the  power  of  the  Indian  tribes. 

It  passes  through  or  near  territories  having  already  large  populations;  that  of  New  Mexico, 
according  to  the  report  of  Captain  Pope,  being  50,000;  and  that  of  Chihuahua  and  Sonora,  as 
above  stated,  being  more  than  300,000. 

The  chief  advantage  of  this  route  is,  that  for  the  space  of  1,100  or  1,200  miles,  the  usual  item 
of  great  expense  in  railroads  is  in  a  great  measure  avoided,  there  being  no  necessity  to  prepare 
an  expensive  road-bed  except  in  a  few  instances  in  the  passage  of  the  mountain  chains.  Drain 
ing  and  ballasting  are  also  dispensed  with  at  the  same  time.  Over  the  remaining  portions  of  the 
route — 418  miles  if  to  San  Pedro,  and  839  miles  if  to  San  Francisco — the  ground  is  generally 
favorable  to  the  construction  of  the  road-bed. 

The  mountain  passes  of  the  route  are  generally  favorable;  those  west  of  the  Rio  Grande 
requiring  no  difficult  engineering  for  location  through  them,  and  but  little  rock  excavation  or 
expensive  embankment  and  side  cutting.  The  Guadalupe  and  Hueco  passes  are  more  difficult. 
The  short  tunnel  on  the  San  Fernando  Pass,  and  those  that  may  be  needed  in  the  New  Pass, 
will  not  be  found  difficult  in  iheir  execution. 

The  climate  throughout  the  route  is  salubrious,  the  heat  due  its  southern  latitude  being  mod 
erated  by  the  elevation  of  the  table-lands.  On  the  Colorado  desert  it  is  torrid,  but  not  un 
healthy,  and  west  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  coast  range  is  celebrated  for  health  and  agreea- 
bleness. 

From  a  consideration  of  these  favorable  circumstances,  and  after  a  close  examination  of  all 
the  sources  of  increased  cost  of  construction,  from  the  peculiarities  of  situation,  climate,  and 
geological  and  topographical  formation,  I  am  of  opinion  that  the  road  may  be  built  as  a  first  class 
road,  in  regard  to  superstructure,  rail,  &c.,  and  equipped  sufficiently  for  the  business  that  may 
be  reasonably  expected,  for  a  sum  that  will  not  probably  exceed  $45,000  per  mile. 
The  following  estimate  is  submitted,  including  depots  and  equipment: 

ESTIMATE. 

From  Fulton,  on  the  Red  river,  to  the  Llano  Estacado,  449  miles,  at  $35,000  per 
mile,  25  per  cent,  being  added  to  the  cost  at  eastern  prices  for  one-half  the  dis 
tance;  over  the  Llano  Estacado,  125  miles,  at  $35,000  per  mile,  peculiarities 
of  construction  having  been  considered,  and  50  per  cent,  at  cost  at  eastern 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL.  99 

prices  having  been  added  ;  the  sum  of  the  two  distances  being  624  miles,  at 

$35,000  per  mile $21,840,000 

From  the  Pecos  to  the  Rio  Grande,  the  cost  being  assimilated  to  that  of  the  Bal 
timore  and  Ohio  railroad  for  80  miles,  and  50  per  cent,  being  added  to  the 
cost— SO  miles,  at  $75,000  per  mile $0,000,000 

The  remaining  83  miles,  at  $45,000  per  mile $3,735,600 

$9,735,000 

From  the  Rio  Grande  to  San  Pedro,  on  the  Pacific,  831  miles,  at  $45,000  per 

mile..  $37,395,000 


Total  from  Fulton,  on  Red  river,  to  San  Pedro,  being  1,618  miles $68,970,000 

In  continuation  to  San  Francisco,  the  distance  from  the  Rio  Grande  at  El  Paso  to 
San  Fernando  may  be  considered  the  same  as  to  San  Pedro,  and  the  amount 
of  estimate  as  above  may  be  adopted.  The  remaining  distance  from  San  Fer 
nando  to  San  Francisco  is  about  421  miles,  of  which  about  75  miles  is  of  a 
highly  favorable  character  of  mountain  passes,  which  may  be  estimated  at 

$90,000  per  mile $6,750,000 

The  remaining  346  miles  being  estimated  at  $50,000  per  mile $17,400,000 


Total  distance  from  Fulton,  on  Red  river,  to  San  Francisco  being  2,039  miles, 

and  the  total  estimated  cost $93,120,000 


This  estimate  supposes  the  final  condition  of  the  passes  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  coast 
range.  Should  the  steeper  grades  be  used  a  reduction  of  nearly  $3,000,000  may  be  made  from 
the  estimate. 

The  equipment  for  the  first  business  of  the  road,  included  in  the  preceding  estimate,  may  be 
estimated  for  200  passengers  daily  each  way,  and  a  light  freight  business.  The  cost  of  this 
would  amount,  at  eastern  prices,  to  $1,000  or  $1,200  per  mile,  less  than  one  fifth  of  that  of  the 
six  principal  Massachusetts  roads  out  of  Boston,  the  average  cost  of  equipment  of  which  per 
mile  is  $6,147;  total  length  of  roads  381  miles.  The  amount  of  work  performed  by  these  roads 
in  1853  was — 

Number  of  passengers  carried  one  mile 11 1,075,121 

Number  of  tons  of  freight  carried  one  mile 61,858,964 

Adding  50  per  cent,  for  cost  of  freight,  &c.,  we  may  estimate  the  first  equipment  of  the  Pacific 
road  at  $3,000,000,  and  the  cost  of  depots,  stations,  &c.,  at  from  $2,500,000  to  $3,000,000;  total, 
equipment  and  depots,  $6,000,000.  Should  the  road  be  finally  worked  to  its  full  power,  the  cost 
of  equipment  and  depots  would  exceed  $20,000,000. 

The  length  of  this  route  from  Fulton  to  San  Pedro  is 1,618  miles. 

The  sum  of  the  ascents  and  descents  32.7S4  feet,  which  is  equivalent  to  621  miles, 

and  the  equated  length  of  the  road  is 2,239  miles. 

The  estimated  cost  is $6S,970:000 

From  Fulton  to  San  Francisco  the  distance  is 2,039  miles. 

The  sum  of  the  ascents  and  descents  42,008  feet,  which  is  equivalent  to  795  miles, 

and  the  equated  length  of  the  road  is 2,834  miles. 

The  estimated  cost  is $93,120,000 

BUSINESS    OF    THE    ROAD. 

It  may  be  desirable  to  consider  the  sources  of  business  for  a  railroad  to  San  Francisco  when 
constructed. 

The  value  of  the  Santa  Fe  trade  is  stated  by  Captain  Pope  to  be  yearly  $6,000,000. 


100  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY  SECOND    PARALLEL. 

The  number  of  passengers  to  and  from  California  is  now  50,000  yearly.  It  will  not  be  extrav 
agant  lo  assume  that  the  road  will  double  this  number  at  once.  This,  at  $200  per  passenger 
from  Fulton  to  San  Francisco,  2,000  miles,  will  give  $20,000,000,  or,  at  $150  per  passenger,  will 
give  $15,000,000,  of  which  two-thirds  may  be  assumed  as  profit.  It  is  doubtful  whether  the 
present  overland  emigration  can  be  counted  upon  as  furnishing  business  for  the  road. 

The  light  freight  which  is  now  carried  by  the  Isthmus  route,  costing  $394  per  ton,  and  which, 
when  the  Isthmus  railroad  is  completed,  is  to  cost  $169  per  ton,  would  take  the  Pacific  railroad 
route,  since,  allowing  five  cents  per  ton  per  mile  for  this  road,  the  cost  per  ton  from  Fulton  to 
San  Francisco  will  be  $105,  and  thence  to  New  Orleans  or  Memphis,  by  railroad,  $10  per  ton 
additional. 

Fifty  millions  of  dollars  in  gold  are  sent  annually  to  the  Atlantic  States  from  California.  It 
is  doubtful,  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  risks,  if  the  per-centage  on  this  would  accrue  to  the  road. 
Two  per  cent.,  the  present  cost  of  transportation,  is  $1,000,000,  three-fourths  of  which  would, 
if  carried,  be  the  earnings  of  the  Pacific  road,  $750,000. 

The  transportation  of  the  mails  may  be  set  down  at  from  $500,000  to  $1,000,000. 

In  the  year  1852-'53,  22,320,417  pounds  of  tea  were  imported  into  the  United  States,  valued 
at  $8,174,670,  at  a  freight  cost  probably  of  $15  per  ton  measurement,  (one-half  ton  weight  of 
tea.)  To  supply  the  country  west  of  the  Mississippi  we  have  an  interior  transportation,  by  rail 
road,  canal,  or  river,  of  at  least  1,000  miles.  Freight  from  China  to  San  Francisco  may  be 
assumed  not  lo  exceed  $10  per  ton.  From  San  Francisco  to  the  Mississippi  river  the  freight  on 
tea  would  be  $50  per  ten  measurement,  and  the  total  cost  of  transportation  would  be  $60  per 
ton  measurement,  against  $30,  brought  from  the  eastern  ports,  (freight  from  China  to  Boston  $15 
per  ton;)  this,  in  the  first  instance,  is  six  cents  per  pound,  and  in  the  second  three  cents  per 
pound.  The  tea  imported  into  the  United  States  is  of  inferior  quality,  and,  in  the  opinion  of  those 
familiar  with  the  trade,  would  not  be  less  injured  by  transportation  by  the  railroad  route  than  by 
that  now  used  ;  nor  would  the  more  delicate  teas,  should  there  be  a  demand  for  them.  The  earn 
ings  from  this  source,  supposing  it  carried  22,000,000  pounds,  would  be  $1,000,000. 

Imports  of  silks  from  China  in  1852  were  valued  at  $1,567,912. 

With  the  same  rates  of  transportation  as  cattle  are  carried  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad, 
it  would  cost  $36  per  head  to  transport  cattle,  and  $40  per  head  to  transport  horses  and  mules, 
from  Fulton  to  San  Francisco.  This  mode  of  taking  cattle,  horses,  and  mules  across  the  con 
tinent  would  be  only  partially  resorted  to,  and  for  those  portions  where  the  grazing  is  not  good, 
say  500  or  600  miles,  or  about  one  fourth  of  the  distance.  Cattle  driven  to  New  Mexico  or  Cali 
fornia  are  sold  fcr  about  double  the  cost  in  Missouri  and  Texas,  costing  about  $36  per  head  and 
selling  for  $72  per  head. 

To  transport  a  barrel  of  flour  from  Fulton  to  San  Francisco  would  cost  from  $8  to  $10  per 
barrel,  or  from  four  to  five  cents  per  pound,  (about  double  the  cost  now  paid  by  sea  to  San  Fran 
cisco  ;)  and  a  barrel  of  pork  from  $12  to  $15,  or  from  six  to  seven  and  a  half  cents  per  pound, 
and  the  same  for  provisions  generally. 

In  the  war  of  1812  the  transportation  of  all  supplies  cost  from  50  cents  to  $1  per  ton  per  mile 
from  Albany  to  the  frontier,  say  300  miles,  or  from  $150  to  $300  per  ton — the  average  being  $225 
per  ton — and  required  from  15  to  30  days  for  the  journey.  We  would  be  nearer  therefore  to  our 
California  coast,  in  time,  by  from  7  to  20  days,  and  at  less  than  half  the  cost,  were  this  railroad 
built,  than  we  were  to  our  northern  frontier  in  181 2-' 14. 

The  transportation  of  troops  to  California  by  the  isthmus  route  has  cost  $225  for  each  com 
missioned  officer  and  $150  for  each  enlisted  soldier,  &c.,  with  100  pounds  of  baggage  each, 
except  across  the  isthmus,  where  25  pounds  are  allowed — the  excess  being  paid  for  at  15  cents 
per  pound.  At  present  the  price  is  $300  for  each  officer  and  $150  for  each  enlisted  soldier. 

The  cost  to  the  railroad  of  transporting  troops  from  Fulton  to  San  Francisco  would  be  about 
$60  per  man. 


ROUTE    NEAR    THE   THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL.  101 

The  cost  to  the  road  for  freight  will  be  about  $60  per  ton.  The  cost  of  transporting  ordnance 
and  ordnance  stores  b}r  Cape  Horn  has  been  about  $40  per  ton. 

The  cost  of  transporting  military  stores  to  the  po«ts  of  New  Mexico  from  Fort  Leavenworth  varies 
from  $8  to  $14  per  100  pounds,  or  from  $160  to  $180  per  ton.  By  the  railroad  it  would  cost  from 
Fulton  from  $24  to  $30  per  ton.  The  cost  of  transporting  baggage  and  subsistence  of  troops  march 
ing  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  New  Mexico  is  about  $15  per  man;  the  time  consumed  about  three 
months — the  expense  of  the  soldier  during  that  time  being  from  $17  to  $20  per  month,  or  $60;  the 
cost  of  transportation  by  railroad  in  three  days  would  be  $50,  or  cost  to  the  road  from  $24  to  $30. 

The  question  as  to  what  portion  of  the  trade  between  the  United  States  and  Europe,  on  the 
one  side,  and  the  empires  of  Japan,  China,  and  India,  on  the  other,  together  with  the  islands  of 
the  Pacific  and  Indian  oceans,  and  the  South  American  Pacific  States,  of  the  trade  between  our 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  territories,  and  of  our  whale  fisheries,  amounting  probably  to  $300,000,000 
yearly,  would  be  carried  by  the  railroad  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Mississippi,  has  been  so  often 
discussed,  that  it  is  not  necessary  here  to  enter  upon  it.  The  cost  of  carriage  of  some  articles 
has  been  merely  touched  upon  to  give  an  idea  of  the  value  of  the  road  for  military  purposes. 
The  information  respecting  the  former  and  present  cost  of  transportation  of  troops  and  military 
stores  has  been  obtained  from  the  letter  of  Major  General  Jesup,  Quartermaster  General  of  the 
army,  to  the  War  Department. 

Whether  the  saving  of  interest  on  outlay  of  capital  in  trade  by  shortening  the  time  of  passage 
would  be  sufficient  to  divert  a  large  freight  business  to  the  Pacific  railroad  in  the  most  valuable 
articles  of  the  trade  with  Asia,  those  more  familiar  with  commerce  than  I  am  can  determine. 

The  length  of  the  road  from  Fulton  to  San  Francisco  may  be  put  down  at  2,000  miles;  its  cost 
at  $90,000,000;  its  yearly  earnings  at  $17,000,000,  independent  of  any  considerations  connected 
with  the  trade  of  Asia,  the  islands  of  the  Pacific,  South  America,  or  the  whale  trade. 

The  railroads  of  Massachusetts  are  1,280  miles  in  length;  have  cost  $60,000,000,  and  earn 
yearly  $7,713,203.  The  3'early  expense  of  working  them  is  $4,541,468;  their  net  earnings 
$3,211,198. 

If  the  earnings  of  the  Pacific  railroad  should  be  in  proportion  to  the  Massachusetts  roads  for 
outlay  of  capital,  we  should  have  $13,000,000  instead  of  $17,000,000. 

But,  as  the  equipment  of  the  Pacific  road  for  this  business,  yielding  $17,000,000  yearly,  is 
merely  one-fifth  that  of  the  Massachusetts  roads,  the  expense  of  working  the  road  would  be 
nearly  in  that  proportion;  but,  as  we  have  supposed  it  to  be  worked  at  double  the  proportionate 
cost  of  eastern  railroads,  (east  of  the  Mississippi,)  we  have  now  the  proportion  of  two-fifths,  or 
about  one-half  the  actual  cost  per  mile  of  working  the  Massachusetts  roads,  for  the  probable  cost 
per  mile  of  working  the  Pacific  railroad;  the  equipment  in  the  latter  case  being  one-fifth  of  what 
it  is  in  the  former.  And,  by  this  proportion,  the  yearly  expense  of  working  the  Pacific  railroad 
would  be  about  $4.000,000,  leaving  $13,000,000  for  the  net.  earnings.  This  supposes  100,000 
passengers  yearly  to  and  from  California.  Should  the  present  number,  50,000,  not  increase, 
the  yearly  earnings  of  the  road,  supposing  it  to  carry  all,  would  be,  under  the  suppositions 
expressed  in  the  preceding  page,  about  $10,100,000,  leaving  $6,000,000  for  net  earnings. 

1.  On  the  New  York  railroads,  in  1853,  the  average  cost  for  maintenance  of  way  was — 

For  passengers $455  per  mile  of  road. 

For  freight 323  "  " 


Total,  about 778 


2.  The  average  cost  of  repair  of  machinery  for  each  passenger  carried  one  mile 

was -. c 2.11    mills. 

The  average  cost  of  repairs  of  machinery  for  each  ton  of  freight  carried  one 

mile  was..  2.60       " 


102  ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL. 

3.  The  average  cost  of  operating  the  road  for  each  passenger  carried  one  mile 

was 5.56    mills. 

The  average  cost  of  operating  the  road  for  each  ton  of  freight  carried  one  mile 

was 9.20       " 

4.  The  average  receipts  from  each  passenger  carried  one  mile  was If  cents. 

5.  The  average  receipts  per  ton  of  freight  carried  one  mile  was 2 ,80    " 

Applying  the  above  results  to  the  Pacific  railroad,  the  work  upon  which  we  have  supposed  to 

be  at  the  first  but  one-fifth  of  that  done  on  these  roads,  we  have — 

1.  For  passenger  travel:  for  maintenance  of  roadway,  if  we  estimate  $500  per 

mile,  it  will  be,  under  the  circumstances,  an  estimate  largely  in  excess,  and 

will  cover  that  for  a  light  freight  business.     This,  for  2,000  miles,  is $1,000,000 

2.  The  average  cost  for  repairs  of  machinery,  and  operating  the  New  York  roads, 

for  each  passenger  carried  one  mile,  is,  as  above,  7.67  mills.  As  we  have 
estimated  the  cost  on  the  Pacific  railroad  at  double  that  at  eastern  prices, 
we  shall  have  for  cost  of  carrying  100,000  passengers  2,000  miles $3,068,000 


Total $4,068,000 


The  receipts  from  these  passengers  we  have  put  down  at $15,000,000 

Supposing  the  yearly  number  of  passengers  should  be  only  50,000,  we  have  from 

this  source $7,500,000 

For  carrying  the  mails $1,000,000 

And  for  transportation  of  troops,  arms,  public  stores,  &c.,  and  light  freight $1,500,000 


Total $10,000,000 


Supposing,  then,  the  cost  of  maintenance  of  way,  repairs  of  machinery,  and  operating  the 
road,  to  be,  as  before  estimated,  for  double  the  number  of  passengers  actually  carried,  we  have 
for  net  earnings  about  $6,000,000. 

The  cost  of  carrying  freight  cannot  be  estimated  at  much  less  than  three  cents  per  ton  per 
mile — that  adopted  in  the  previous  pages. 

The  yearly  cost  of  maintenance  of  way  for  freight  on  New  York  roads  was  $323  per  mile. 

The  cost  of  repairs  of  machinery  and  operating  the  road  for  each  ton  of  freight  carried  one  mile, 
was  12  mills.  Estimating  the  cost  on  the  Pacific  railroad  at  double,  we  have  about  2£  cents  for 
cost  per  mile  per  ton  for  repairs  of  machinery  and  operating  the  road,  besides  which  theie  is  the 
cost  of  maintenance  of  roadway. 

At  a  railroad  convention  "  held  in  New  York,  embracing  the  officers  of  the  four  great  lines 
between  the  Atlantic  and  the  West,  a  joint  report  was  submitted  by  the  superintendents  of  the 
several  roads,  in  which  they  state  that  'experi»nce  has  proved  that  the  lowest  rates  at  which 
ordinary  freight  (in  freight  trains  at  a  speed  of  10  or  12  miles  per  hoar,  and  in  large  quantities) 
can  be  carried  to  pay  interest  and  expenses,  will  aveiage  about  2  cents  per  ton  per  mile  for 
heavy  agricultural  products,  3  cents  for  groceries,  and  4  cents  for  dry  goods.'  *  *  * 

Sufficient  information  has  been  elicited  from  the  railroads  of  this  and  other  States,  from  the 
action  of  conventions,  and  from  other  sources  of  information,  to  warrant  the  belief  that  a  consider 
able  portion  of  the  freighting  business  now  done  by  our  railroads  yields  no  profit  at  the  present 
rates,  when  due  allowance  is  made  for  the  increase  of  capital  which  it  requires,  for  the  increased 
wear  and  depreciation  of  the  works,  and  for  the  occupation  of  the  track  to  the  injury  of  the  other 
business." — (Report  of  the  State  Engineer,  New  York,  January  23,  1855.) 

It  appears  probable,  from  the  foregoing,  that  the  net  earnings  of  the  road  would  pay  a  reason 
able  interest  upon  the  sum  required  to  build  it.  Yet,  as  the  business  of  the  road  is  to  be  a  through 


ROUTE  NEAR  THE  THIRTY- SECOND  PARALLEL.  103 

business,  to  be  found  only  at  the  two  extremities,  with  but  little  way  business,  the  capital  required 
must  be  idle  an  average  time  equal  to  half  that  required  for  construction,  which  latter  will  not 
probably  be  less  than  10  years,  and  the  interest  during  that  time  would  add  from  twenty- 
five  to  thirty  millions  to  the  capital.  If,  in  consideration  of  the  great  national  benefits  which  the 
construction  of  the  road  would  confer,  the  government  of  the  United  States  could  lend  its  aid  to 
the  road  so  as  to  relieve  it  from  the  payment  of  interest  upon  the  cost  of  the  road  during  the  time 
of  its  construction,  it  would  seem  probable  from  the  foregoing  that  it  might  be  built  by  private 
means.  Without  this  much  aid  from  the  government,  the  road  will  probably  never  be  built. 

A  donation  of  land,  such  as  has  been  generally  proposed,  will  be  of  little  comparative  value. 

I  regret  that  there  is  not  time  to  enter  a  little  more  into  these  discussions. 

The  following  extract  from  ihe  annual  report  of  the  railroad  corporations  in  the  State  of  Mas 
sachusetts  foi  1852,  giving  the  length,  cost,  yearly  earnings,  expense  of  working,  &c.,  of  the 
roads  in  that  State,  may  be  found  interesting. 

Following  it  is  an  extract  from  the  annual  report  of  the  State  engineer  and  surveyor  on  the 
railroads  of  the  State  of  New  York,  showing  the  length,  cost,  &c.,  of  the  roads  in  that  Stale.  I 
have  made  these  extracts  as  brief  as  possible.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  estimated  cost  of  the 
route  of  the  32d  parallel,  after  every  consideration  of  the  unusual  circumstances  that  will  produce 
an  increased  cost,  is  about  the  same  per  mile  as  the  roads  in  these  States : 

Extract  from  an  abstract  of  "Annual  Reports  of  the  R'rilroad  Corporations  in  (he  State  of  Massachu 
setts,"  showing  totals  of  the  leading  statistics  of  all  the  roads. 

Capital $56,236,600  00 

Capital  paid  in 46,539,220  34 

Cost 60,01 9,051  77£ 

Length 1,280.29  miles. 

Length  of  double  track 270.33     " 

Length  of  branches 103.68     " 

Speed  of  passenger  trains  adopted  per  hour 23.63     " 

Speed  of  freight  trains  adopted  per  hour 12.98     " 

Earnings $7,7 1 3,208  35 

Expense  of  working 4,541,468  31^ 

Net  earnings .' 3,211,197  75 

Dividends 2,483,545  94 

Debt 16,009,095  77 

Surplus 1,112,072  95 

Extract  from  the  "Annual  Report  of  the  State  Engineer  and  Surveyor  on  the  railroads  of  the  State  of 

New  York— February,  1854." 

The  length  of  all  the  railroads  in  operation  in  the  State  is 2,432  miles. 

The  length  of  railroads  laid  is  about 2,497     " 

The  length  of  double  track  in  addition  to  the  above  is 664     " 

The  number  of  locomotives  in  use  is 586 

The  number  of  passenger  cars  in  use  is --  834 

The  number  of  baggage  and  freight  cars  in  use  is 6,895 

The  number  of  miles  run  by  passenger  trains  is  about 6,594,963 

The  number  of  miles  run  by  freight  trains  is 4,227,807 

Total  number  of  miles  run - 1 0,822,770 

The  whole  number  of  miles  travelled  by  the  passengers  is  about 531,572,298 


104 


COMPARISON    OF    THE   ROUTES. 


The  whole  number  of  miles  each  ton  of  freight  was  moved,  or  the  number  of 

tons  moved  one  mile,  is 246,554,492 

The  capital  stock  of  which  is  about $112,038,131    45 

The  capital  stock  paid  in  is  about 61 ,238,829  22 

The  amount  of  funded  and  floating  debt  is 59,669,478  38 

The  amount  paid  for  construction  and  equipment  is 117,707,620  58 

COMPARISON    OF    THE    ROUTES. 

The  following  table  will  enable  a  comparison  to  be  made  of  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents, 
and  the  equivalent  horizontal  distances  of  the  railroads  connecting  the  Atlantic  with  the  Missis 
sippi,  with  those  of  the  routes  examined  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Mississippi.  It  will  be  observed, 
that  in  proportion  to  the  lengths  of  the  routes,  the  sums  of  the  ascents  and  descents  are  less  on 
the  Pacific  than  on  the  Atlantic  routes  : 


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A  table  will  be  found  at  the  conclusion  of  this  chapter,  giving  some  of  the  most  important 
statistics  of  the  several  routes;  following  it,  is  a  statement  of  the  distances  of  the  eastern  termini 
of  the  routes  to  certain  ports. 

The  sum  of  the  ascents  and  descents  given  for  the  various  routes  does  not  take  into  considera 
tion  those  minor  undulations  which  sometimes  largely  increase  the  aggregate. 

I  think  it  probable  that  when  detailed  surveys  are  made,  it  will  be  found  that  this  sum  for  the 
route  near  the  47th  parallel  will  be  more  increased  than  those  for  the  other  routes,  and  that  the 
sum  for  the  route  near  the  32d  parallel  will  be  less  increased  than  the  others. 

The  equated  lengths  corresponding  to  these  sums  may  give  erroneous  impressions.  If  the 
loads  to  be  habitually  carried  over  the  roads  are  within  the  power  of  the  engines  over  the 
greatest  grades  proposed,  then  the  sums  of  ascents  and  descents  really  have  little  meaning  or 
value.  The  wear  and  tear  of  rail  and  machinery  and  consumption  of  fuel  would  be  somewhat 
greater  on  the  road  having  the  largest  sum,  but  the  difference  would  not  be  worth  taking  into 
account,  unless  there  was  an  equality  in  all  other  respects  between  the  routes. 

If  there  are  some  grades  so  steep  as  to  require  the  division  of  the  loads  habitually  carried  over 
other  portions,  the  cost  of  the  extra  locomotives  and  of  working  them  over  those  portions  will 
show  the  extent  of  the  disadvantage  arid  yearly  cost. 

So  far  as  any  estimate  has  been  made  in  this  report  of  the  amount  of  work  to  be  done  on  the 
roads,  these  sums  of  ascents  and  descents  have  little  practical  value,  since  those  portions  of  the 
routes  have  been  indicated  where  it  may  be  considered  advisable  to  use  steep  natural  slopes 
with  extra  engines,  to  expedite  the  completion  of  the  road  and  save  expensive  road-bed  prepara- 


COMPARISON    OF    THE   ROUTES.  105 

lion.      With  a  full  equipment  and   heavy  freight  business,  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents 
becomes  important. 

The  advantages  and  disadvantages  of  the  several  routes  may  be  briefly  recapitulated,  as 
follows : 

I.    ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY-SEVENTH    AND    FORTY-NINTH    PARALLELS. 

The  advantages  of  this  route  are — its  low  profile,  which  is  important  in  relation  to  climate ;  its 
easy  grades,  and  small  amount  of  ascents  and  descents,  both  important  if  the  road  should  be 
developed  to  its  full  working  power;  the  great  extension  west  of  the  prairie  lands;  in  the  supplies 
of  timber  over  the  western  half  of  the  route;  the  facilities  which  the  Columbia  river  and  its 
tiibutaries,  and  the  Missouri,  will  afford  to  the  construction  of  the  road ;  in  the  short  distance 
from  the  Mississippi  to  a  seaport  of  the  Pacific,  (1,864  miles  to  Vancouver;)  in  the  western 
terminus  of  the  road  on  Puget  Sound  being  nearer  to  the  ports  of  Asia  than  the  termini  of  the 
other  routes;  in  the  piox:mity  of  the  eastern  terminus  to  Lake  Superior,  from  which  a  continuous 
navigation  for  seagoing  vessels  extends  to  the  Atlantic  ocean  ;  and  in  the  existence  of  coal  on 
Puget  Sound. 

Its  disadvantages  are — the  difficult  and  costly  construction,  including  a  long  tunnel,  through  a 
mountain  region  of  550  Liiles,  (comprising  90  miles  on  the  Columbia  river  ;)  the  delay  in  construc 
tion,  and  the  liabilities  cf  the  road  to  great  injury  and  destruction  through  a  large  part  of  this  region 
from  the  high  freshets  oti  the  Bitter  Root,  Flathead,  Clark's  fork,  and  Columbia  rivers  ;  in  the 
severe  and  long  winters  on  the  prairies  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  on  the  greater  portion 
of  the  route  suspending  ^abor  in  the  open  air  for  such  a  large  part  of  the  year,  and  impeding  the 
working  of  the  road  when  built;  in  the  distance  of  its  western  terminus  from  that  port,  (San  Fran 
cisco,)  which  will  ghe  the  only  large  travel,  and  business  which  may  be  counted  upon  with 
certainty;  and,  finally,  its  proximity  throughout  to  the  frontier  of  a  powerful  foreign  sovereignty. 

II.    ROUTE    NEAR    THE    FORTY-FIRST    AND    FORTY-SECOND    PARALLELS. 

Its  advantages  are — comparatively  cheap  construction,  due  to  the  favorable  features  of  the 
Rocky  mountain  system  in  this  latitude,  and  those  of  the  Great  Basin,  both  of  which  result  in  a 
low  sum  of  ascents  and  descents,  which  would  be  a  favorable  element,  should  the  full  working 
power  of  the  road  be  developed;  in  the  mountains  being  passed  without  tunnels  ;  the  probability 
of  its  possessing  extens.ve  coal-fields  in  the  middle  of  the  route ;  and  in  the  aid  which  its  con 
struction  would  receive  'rom  the  population  of  Utah. 

Its  disadvantages  aie--the  very  difficult  and  costly  construction  along  the  Sacramento  river  for 
136  miles  ;  the  construction  through  the  canon  of  the  Timpanogos  ;  the  costly  construction  through 
the  Black  Hills  to  the  South  Pass,  for  nearly  300  miles,  (the  route  by  the  Cheyenne  Pass  appar 
ently  giving  an  equally  costly  road;)  in  the  great  elevation  of  the  summits  in  the  Rocky  mountain 
system;  and  in  the  great  elevation  of  its  plain,  and  the  long  and  severe  winters  on  it,  and  the  prai 
ries  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  suspending  labor  for  several  months  of  the  year,  and  impeding 
the  working  of  the  road  when  completed,  by  their  severity,  and  the  snows  on  the  prairies  and  in 
the  mountain  ravines  and  gorges. 

III.    ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-EIGHTH    AND    THIRTY-NINTH    PARALLELS. 

No  peculiar  advantage  was  developed  in  the  exploration  of  this  route,  except  the  probability 
of  the  existence  01  extensive  coal-fields  in  the  valleys  of  the  Grand  and  Green  rivers. 

The  extraordinary  difficulties  to  be  overcome  from  the  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass  to  the  Great  Basin 
(500  miles)  render  the  route  impracticable.  The  elevations  of  the  passes  in  the  Rocky  mountains 
are  the  greatest  found,  being  9,200  and  1 0,000  feet,  the  latter,  the  Coo-che-to-pa  Pass,  requiring  a 
tunnel  at  an  elevation  of  9,500  feet. 


106  COMPARISON    OF    THE    ROUTES. 

IV.    ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-FIFTH    PARALLEL. 

The  advantages  of  this  route  consist  in  water  and  fuel  being  generally  less  scanty  than  on  the 
others,  excepting  that  of  the  47th  and  49th  parelUs  ;  in  a  better  supply  of  timber  west  of  the  Rio 
Grande ;  in  the  greater  mildness  of  the  winter  than  on  the  routes  north  of  it ;  in  the  temperate 
character  of  the  summer  over  nearly  the  whole  route ;  in  no  tunnels  being  required  on  the  Rocky 
mountain  passes,  and  none  on  the  route  to  San  Francisco  by  the  Tah-ee-chay-pah  Pass ;  in  the 
probability  of  the  existence  of  coal-fields  in  the  middle  of  the  route;  and  in  the  assistance  that 
the  population  of  New  Mexico  and  the  Mexican  provinces  of  Chihuahua  and  Sonora  may  give  in 
constructing  and  supporting  the  road. 

The  disadvantages  are — its  greater  length  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific  than  the  route  south 
of  it ;  the  apparently  rough  and  broken  character  of  the  country  through  which  much  of  it  lies  ; 
its  much  greater  cost,  and  the  greater  number  of  ascents  and  descents,  the  sum  of  which  is  the 
greatest  of  the  four  routes,  and  which  would  become  seriously  objectionable  should  the  full  work 
ing  power  of  the  road  be  developed. 

V.    ROUTE    NEAR    THE    THIRTY-SECOND    PARALLEL. 

Its  advantages  are — the  short  distance  from  the  eastern  terminus  to  a  Pacific  port  (1,618 
miles ;)  the  small  cost  of  the  road,  it  being  to  a  Pacific  port  less  than  two  thirds  of  the  cost  of  the 
cheapest  of  the  other  routes,  and  to  San  Francisco  $20,000,000  less  than  the  least  of  the  others, 
(the  cheapness  of  construction  being  due  to  the  location  of  the  route  upon  more  than  1,000  miles 
of  table-lands  and  plains;)  in  the  open  and  otherwise  favorable  features  of  the  mountain  passes; 
the  lowness  of  their  summits  ;  in  their  natural  slopes  admitting  of  use  without  extensive  and  costly 
preparation ;  in  the  mild  winters  and  temperate  summers  of  all  the  route  except  that  portion  of 
the  Gila  and  Colorado  desert  where,  for  350  miles,  labor  in  the  open  air  must  be  suspended  for 
three  months  of  the  year ;  in  there  being  no  reason  to  apprehend  difiiculties,  impediments,  delays, 
and  dangers  from  snow  arid  ice  ;  in  the  coal-fields  of  the  Brazos  ;  and  in  the  aid  that  the  population 
of  New  Mexico  and  the  provinces  of  Chihuahua  and  Sonora  may  give  in  constructing  and 
supporting  the  road. 

Its  disadvantages  are — the  cost  of  construction  of  a  portion  between  the  Pecos  and  Rio  Grande  ; 
the  circuitous  route  to  San  Francisco  from  the  plains  of  Los  Angelos,  which,  unless  further  ex 
plorations  determine  a  more  direct  route,  requires  a  second  crossing  of  the  coast  range,  and  a 
passage  through  the  Sierra  Nevada;  in  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  being  the  next  largest 
alter  that  of  the  35th  parallel,  the  extent  of  which  objection  depends  upon  the  amount  of  business 
to  be  done  on  the  road ;  and,  finally,  in  the  scanty  supply  of  water  and  fuel  on  the  route. 


TABLE   OF   LENGTHS,   ETC. 


107 


Table  sliowlng  the  lengths,  sums  of  ascents  and  descents,  equated  lengths,  cost,  &c. ,  of  the  several 
routes  explored  for  a  railroad  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific.  (For  the  grades,  see  the 
profiles  accompanying  the  report.) 


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5 

2 

trf 

CO 

-r 

"5 

a 

r-~  oo"oT 

03 

Miles. 

Miles. 

.Fccf. 

Miie,, 

Fee*. 

Route  near  47th  and  49th  paral-         fr 

lets- 

Route  from  St.  Paul  to  Seattle,  i  1,410 

2,025 

19.100    2.387  «.«140.871.000 

535 

1,490 

61,000 

631 

580 

720 

130 

V, 

28 

6,044 

Tunnel  Rt  *'le- 

J                        V  7  -           7      - 

vat'nof5,219 

feet. 

Route  from  St.  Paul  to  Van-     1,455;  1.854 

18,100 

2,207>  130.781.000 

374 

1,490 

6  1,000 

470   580 

720 

130 

';; 

28 

6,044 

Tunnel  Ht  e!e- 

couver. 

vat'n  of  5,219 

feet. 

Route  near  41"   and  42°,  via     1,410 

2,03229,120 

2,583 

116,095,000   632 

1,400 

61,100 

180 

170 

210 

160 

-' 

•J-: 

270 

10720 

8,373 

South    Pass    from    Council 

TiluflV)  to  Renicia. 

c38th   and  39th  —  Westport  to     1,740 

2,080 

49.986    3.12.-, 

!  620 

1,460 

b  1,100 

340 

276 

165 

348 

!  il  i 

170 

60 

155  fif> 

20 

10,  032 

Tunnel  fit  e^G- 

San   Francisco  by  the  Coo- 

vat  'n  of  9,540 

che-to-pa  and  Tah-ec-cliay- 

feet. 

pah  Parses. 

38th  and  ;)9th—  Westport  to  San     1,740  2.290 

56.514 

3,  360  i  670 

1,620 

1,100 

275 

308 

190 

143 

725 

284 

!  10 

1  55  80 

00  in  nao 

T'nnnpl  it  P!P 

Francisco   by  the   Coo-che- 
to-pa  and  Madelin  Passes. 

.  ~,  «-.. 

vat'n  of  9,540 
feet. 

35th—  Fort  Smith  to  San  Pedro.;  1,360    1.890,48.812   2,816  <M  69.210.  265   416 

1,476 

2,300 

305   347 

260 

185 

L60 

305 

J35 

95.. 

7,472 

35th—  Fort  Smith  to  San  Fran-  ;  2,17450,670    3,137  '....    614 

1,530 

2,300 

CISCO. 

32d—  Fulton  to  San  Pedro  1,400   1,61832,781   2,239       68,970.000   408 

1,210 

2,300 

485   300 

100 

170r>03 

60 

5,717 

Fulton  to  San  Francisco.:  1.620!  2,03942,008 

2,834 

93,120.000 

759 

1,280 

2.300 

700 

410 

160 

205  504 

1 

60 

5,717 

a  These  are  the  estimates  of  the  office,  those  of  Gov.  Stevens  having  been  brought  to  the  same  standard  of  increased  cost  as  the  other  routes, 
and  his  equipment  reduced  to  that  of  the  other  routes.  His  estimates  were  $117, 121,000  and  .*!  10,091,000. 

b  Those  s-ums  do  not  include  the  areas  of  cultivable  soil  as  far  west,  as  the  Cascade  and  Sierra  Nevada  mountains. 

c  Supposing  the  route  to  be  a  straight  line,  with  uniform  descent  from  the  Un-kuk-oo-ap  mountains  (near  Sevicr  river)  to  the  entrance  of  the  Tah-ee- 
chay-pah  Pass — the  most  favorable  supposition. 

d  This  estimate  for  the  route  near  the  35th  parallel  is  thought  to  be  largely  in  excess. 

The  sum  of  Ihe  minor  undulations  (not  included  in  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  here  given)  will  probably  be  greater  for  the  route  of  the  47th 
parallel  than  for  the  other  routes  ;  that  for  the  route  near  the  32d  parallel  will  probably  be  the  least  of  all. 

With  the  amount  of  work  estimated  for  the  roads  in  this  report,  the  equated  lengths  corresponding  to  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  has  but  little 
practical  value.  With  a  full  equipment  and  heavy  freight  business,  the  sum  of  ascents  and  descents  becomes  important. 


108  TABLE   OP   DISTANCES. 

Distances  of  the  eastern  termini  of  the  several  Pacific  Railroad  routes  to  th*  Mississippi  river,  Boston, 
A'cii;  York,  Charleston,  ami  New  Orleans,  by  railroad  built,  building,  and  irojccted,  as  measured  on 

the  "Railroad  maps." 

Miles. 

1.  St.  Paul            to  Boston 1,316 

to  New  York 1,100 

to  Charleston 1,103 

to  New  Orleans 1,198 

2.  Council  Bluffs  to  Rock  Island  (Miss,  river) 2C7 

to  Boston 1,374 

to  New  York 1 ,252 

to  Charleston 1,H»5 

to  New  Orleans 1,075 

3.  Westport,  mouth  of  Kansas,  (near  Fort  Leavenworth)  to  St.  Louis,  (Miss,  river) 245 

to  Boston 1,415 

to  New  York 1,220 

to  Charleston 1,045 

to  New  Orleans 875 

4.  Fort  Smith,  on  the  Arkansas,  to  Memphis,  (Miss,  river) 27 0 

to  Boston 1,540 

to  New  York ]  ,34  5 

to  Charleston 9CO 

to  New  Orleans G55 

5.  Fulton               to  Gaines,  (Miss,  river) 150 

to  Boston 1,5?:0 

to  New  York 1 ,3;  5 

to  Charleston 950 

to  New  Orleans  .  402 


CHAPTER   VI. 

NOTES  BY  LIEUTENANT  G.  K.  WAEREN,  TOPOGRAPHICAL  ENGINEERS,  ON  THE  ROUTE  FROM  INDE 
PENDENCE  TO  SANTA  FE,  AND  FROM  INDIANOLA,  VIA  SAN  ANTONIO,  TO  EL  PASO.— (Compiled  from  the 
Reports  of  Lieut.  Col.  JOHNSTON,  Top.  Engrs.,  Lieut.  SMITH,  Top.  Engrs.,  Capt.  S.  G.  FRENCH,  3d  Regt.  Arty.,  and  9thers.) 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  results  of  the  late  explorations,  that  there  are  two  practicable  passes 
by  which  to  reach,  from  the  east,  the  New  Mexican  population  of  the  Rio  Grande  valley,  viz : 
by  the  passes  near  Sanfa  Fe  and  by  El  Paso.  As  regards  grade,  a  practicable  route  exists  for 
connecting  the  former  of  these  passes  with  Independence  and  St.  Louis,  (by  the  Cimarron  route,) 
and  probably  a  practical  connexion  of  El  Paso  with  San  Antonio,  or  a  part  of  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico. 

The  following  notes  relate  to  these  two  routes  : 

1st.  Route  from  Independence  to  Santa  Fe. — From  Independence,  Missouri,  in  latitude  39°  7', 
longitude  94°  26',  to  Santa  Fe,  in  latitude  35°  41',  longitude  106°  01',  was  barometrically  sur 
veyed  by  Dr.  Wizlizenus  in  1846,  and  the  following  notes  are  mainly  from  his  report. 

It  is  very  direct,  and  lies  mostly  on  a  table-land  gradually  ascending  towards  the  west,  where 
little  difficulty  need  be  apprehended  in  obtaining  easy  grades.  Its  length  is  765  miles. 

From  Independence  to  Council  Grove,  a  distance  of  143  miles,  the  route  passes  through  a 
well-watered  fertile  prairie,  which  resembles  the  sea  in  its  gentle  undulations.  There  is  suffi 
cient  wood  along  the  water-courses  to  supply  the  railroad  with  ties  and  fuel.  Westward  the 
country  undergoes  a  change,  becoming  gradually  more  sandy  and  barren,  until  we  reach  the  Ar 
kansas,  a  distance  of  about  200  miles.  It  still  preserves  its  wave-like  character,  and  can  only 
be  settled  by  a  pastoral  people. 

The  Arkansas  is  broad  and  shallow,  with  a  sandy  bottom.  It  has  low  bluffs  or  none  at  all. 
It  is  sometimes  bordered  with  cotton-wood,  but  is  generally  quite  bare.  From  this  uninviting 
river  to  the  lower  springs  of  the  Cimarron,  a  distance  of  66  miles,  the  route  lies  over  a  barren, 
level  desert,  elevated  3,000  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  scantily  supplied  with  parched  buffalo- 
grass  ;  but  is  entirely  without  water,  wood,  or  even  buffalo-chips,  the  usual  fuel  in  such  inhos 
pitable  regions. 

The  lower  springs  of  the  Cimarron  form  a  little  green  oasis  with  running  water.  From  this 
point  to  Cold  Spring,  a  distance  of  80  miles,  the  desert  character  of  the  country  continues. 
Water  is  sometimes  found  in  the  Cimarron  river;  but  often  it  can  only  be  obtained  by  digging 
in  its  dry  and  sandy  bed.  The  want  of  it  has  often  occasioned  much  loss  and  suffering  in  this 
barren  wilderness. 

From  Cold  Spring  to  the  Canadian  river,  a  distance  of  110  miles,  the  route  approaches  and 
skirts  a  spur  of  the  Raton  mountains.  Its  character  rapidly  improves.  The  mountains  are 
covered  with  cedar  and  pine  forests,  furnishing  an  ample  supply  for  railroad  purposes.  The 
valley  of  the  Canadian  is  fertile,  and  wel  I  adapted  to  settlements. 

From  this  point  to  Galinas,  a  distance  of  60  miles,  the  trail  passes  over  an  elevated  plain  nearly 
surrounded  by  mountains.  The  valleys  of  the  streams  are  fertile.  Water  is  abundant,  and  the 
mountains  are  thickly  wooded  with  pine. 

From  Galinas,  Dr.  Wizlizenus  says,  "  we  shall  now  travel  mostly  in  narrow  valleys,  and 
through  mountain  passes  surrounded  by  high  precipitous  rocks."  As  he  did  not  survey  the  route 
for  a  railroad,  his  information  is  not  sufficiently  definite  to  determine  whether  it  is  practicable  for 


110  ROUTE    FROM    INDIANOLA    TO    EL    PASO. 

this  purpose.     Near  this  point  it  should,  therefore,  be  considered  as  joining   that  of  Lieutenant 
Whipple. 

2.  From  Indianola,  via  San  Antonio,  to  El  Paso. — A  route  for  a  railroad  has  been  surveyed  and 
located  between  Indianola  and  San  Antonio.  It  crosses  the  Guadalupe  river  at  Victoria,  about 
30  miles  from  Indianola.  Thence  to  San  Antonio  is  about  100  miles. 

A  route  was  surveyed,  barometrically,  from  San  Antonio  to  Frontera  by  the  Mexican  boundary 
commission,  and  the  profile  was  furnished  to  the  Pacific  railroad  office,  by  Brevet  Major  Emory, 
of  the  topographical  engineers,  the  distances  being  taken  irom  the  report  of  Colonel  Johnston, 
topographical  engineers.  This  profile  gives  the  elevations  along  the  route  travelled,  where  the 
object  was  more  to  find  good  pasturage  and  water  for  the  animals  than  to  obtain  easy  grades.  It, 
therefore,  is  only  valuable  as  showing  the  general  elevation  of  the  country. 

From  San  Antonio,  the  travelled  road  keeps  along  the  foot  of  the  hills,  near  the  parallel  of  29° 
20',  as  far  west  as  the  San  Pedro  or  Devil's  river,  longitude  101°.  It  then  ascends  that  stream 
60  miles,  and  crosses  over  to  the  Pecos,  and  ascends  this  to  the  parallel  of  31°  north.  It  then 
proceeds  west  over  the  plains  to  El  Paso,  crossing  the  mountainous  belt  of  country  forming 
the  continuation  of  the  Guadalupe  mountains  on  the  north,  the  greatest  elevation  attained  being 
5,766  feet  in  the  Wild  Rose  Pass  of  the  Diabolo  mountains. 

Colonel  Johnston  undertook  to  explore  a  route  north  of  this  pass,  and  more  directly  west,  but 
found  it  impracticable.  Lieutenant  Garrard,  under  orders  from  Captain  Pope,  explored  this 
•  ranffe  about  30  miles  south  of  the  Guadalupe  Pass  without  finding  one  more  practicable  so 
there  now  remains  but  about  40  miles  of  these  mountains  unexplored. 

There  would  probably  be  no  difficulty  of  grade  in  continuing  up  the  Pecos  to  the  mouth  of 
Delaware  creek,  and  connecting  with  the  route  surveyed  by  Captain  Pope  in  1854,  through  the 
Guadalupe  and  Hueco  mountains.  This  latter  is  usually  known  as  the  upper  or  northern,  the 
former  as  the  lower  or  southern  El  Puso  routes.  Distance  from  Indianola  to  Fort  Fillmore,  by 
the  upper  road,  820  miles  ;  by  the  lower,  840  miles. 

The  lower  route  was  first  explored  by  W.  H.  C.  Whiting,  Corps  of  Engineers,  and  Lieuten 
ant  W.  F.  Smith,  topographical  engineers,  in  1849 ;  and  subsequently  surveyed  by  Colonel 
Johnston,  who  was  followed  by  Captain  S.  G.  French,  of  the  quartermaster's  department,  in 
charge  of  a  large  train. 

The  upper  route  was  first  explored  by  Lieutenant  Bryan  in  1849,  afterwards  by  Captain 
Marcy ;  was  surveyed  by  Colonel  Johnston  in  1849,  and  again  surveyed  by  Captain  Pope  in 
1854,  who  added  to  our  previous  knowledge  by  giving  us  a  profile.  That  route  from  the  mouth 
of  Delaware  creek  to  El  Paso  forms  part  of  the  railroad  route  near  the  32d  parallel. 

The  following  notes  concerning  the  lower  route  are  taken  mainly  from  the  report  of  Captain 
French,  the  distances  being  from  Colonel  Johnston's  report : 

From  San  Antonio  to  Rio  San  Felipe,  160  miles,  most  of  the  soil  is  excellent  for  agriculture  or 
grazing.  Wood  is  abundant  on  the  banks  of  the  streams.  The  road  through  this  extent  crosses 
numerous  streams,  some  of  which  when  swollen  by  rains  are  "large  rivers."  There  is,  how 
ever,  sometimes  a  deficiency  of  water,  particularly  on  the  Rio  Seco  and  Rio  Frio.  Bituminous 
coal  is  said  to  exist  in  abundance  on  the  Nueces,  90  miles  from  San  Antonio. 

After  leaving  the  San  Felipe,  a  marked  change  takes  place  in  the  face  of  the  country.  Before 
reaching  it,  in  the  vicinity  of  100°  meridian,  the  surface  becomes  more  rolling  and  hilly,  and  less 
covered  with  trees  ;  and  by  the  time  we  reach  the  San  Pedro,  on  the  101st  meridian,  it  is  nearly 
barren.  The  valley  of  the  San  Pedro  varies  from  a  quarter  to  half  a  mile  in  width,  and,  owing 
to  its  vertical  sides,  it  is  difficult  to  approach.  Much  of  the  way  it  is  very  rough,  and  the  road 
along  it  frequently  takes  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  is  in  places  submerged  by  the  autumn  freshets 
at  least  20  feet.  The  travelled  route  usually  avoids  the  lower  part  of  the  valley,  keeping  to  the 
west  of  it. 

After  leaving  the  San  Pedro,  the  first  reliable  water  is  40  miles  distant,  at  Howard's  spring, 


ROUTE  FROM  INDIANOLA  TO  EL  PASO.  Ill 

271  miles  from  San  Antonio.  The  next  at  Live  Oak  creek,  304  miles  from  San  Antonio.  Afte 
crossing  this  creek  the  route  follows  it  to  the  Pecos,  and  up  this  to  the  crossing.  This  portion  of 
the  Pecos  is  "narrow  and  deep,  extremely  crooked  in  its  course,  and  rapid  in  its  current.  Its 
waters  are  turbid  and  bitter."  *  *  *  "Its  banks  are  steep,  and  of  clay.  In  a  course  of  two 
hundred  and  forty  (240)  miles  there  are  but  few  places  where  an  animal  can  approach  them  for 
water  with  safety.  Not  a  tree  or  bush  marks  its  course." 

The  road  crosses  the  Pecos  348  miles  from  San  Antonio.  It  then  proceeds  west  to  the  Escon- 
dido  springs,  27  miles;  thence  to  Comanche  springs,  19  miles — (clouds  of  suffocating  dust  accom 
panied  the  passage  of  the  train;)  thence  to  Leon  springs,  10  miles;  thence  to  the  Limpid,  37  miles. 
The  country  from  the  Pecos  to  this  point,  93  miles,  is  exceedingly  sterile,  and,  except  a  little  cane 
and  coarse  grass  about  the  springs  and  the  mezquite,  is  barren  ;  but  it  is  favorable  for  grades.  At 
the  Limpid  we  enter  the  region  of  the  Diabolo  mountains,  probably  a  continuation  of  the  Guada- 
lupe  range.  The  country  is  beautiful,  and  the  mountains  in  August  were  covered  with  green  grass 
to  their  summits.  Pine  is  found  on  them.  The  pass  is  called  the  Wild  Rose  Pass. 

These  mountains  do  not  form  a  single  continuous  ridge,  but  are  made  up  of  single  conical 
peaks,  intersecting  each  other  so  as  to  form  "an  impassable  barrier"  had  riot  some  convulsion  of 
nature  seemed  partly  to  have  opened  the  pass  and  canon  through  which  the  road  runs.  The 
canon  is  deep  and  narrow,  and  in  some  places  not  more  than  200  yards  wide.  The  last  encamp 
ment  on  the  plain  to  the  east  is  at  the  Painted  Camp,  463  miles  from  San  Antonio.  We  leave  the 
mountains  about  40  miles  farther  on  and  come  upon  an  elevated  plain  with  water  in  very  limited 
quantities.  Over  this  plain  the  road  passes  for  60  miles  to  Eagle  springs.  From  Eagle  springs 
the  route  leads  by  a  canon  through  the  mountains  on  the  left,  and  reaches  the  Rio  Grande  in  a 
distance  of  31  miles;  thence  to  Fort  Fillmore,  119  miles;  making  a  total  distance  from  San 
Antonio  of  710  miles,  and  from  Indianola  840  miles. 

No  reliable  practical  result  could  be  obtained  by  the  application  of  the  equation  of  grade  to  the 
ascents  and  descents  on  this  route  according  to  the  profile  we  have. 

The  elevations  are:  at  Indianola,  0  feet;  at  San  Antonio,  about  700  feet;  at  leaving  of 
Pecos,  1,900  feet;  at  summit  of  Wild  Rose  Pass,  5,766  feet;  at  Van  Horner's  well,  4,146  feet; 
on  the  mountains  to  the  west,  4,714  feet;  at  first  reaching  the  Rio  Grande,  3,536  feet;  at  Fort 
Fillmore,  3,938  feet.  Some  of  the  grades  are,  for  short  distances,  as  high  as  400  to  500  feet  per 
mile,  but  could,  no  doubt,  by  proper  location,  be  reduced  to  practicable  ones.  No  wood  could 
be  relied  on  for  railroad  purposes  from  the  San  Felipe  to  the  Diabolo  mountains,  a  distance  of 
330  miles ;  probably  none  to  the  west  of  these  mountains. 

Water  for  working  parties  and  for  the  use  of  the  locomotives  could  probably  be  obtained  as 
easy  as  on  corresponding  portions  of  the  route  of  the  32d  parallel. 


MEMORANDA    ON   RAILWAYS, 


OFFICE  OF  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  SURVEYS; 


BY 


CAPT.   GEO.   B.   McCLELLAN, 

CORPS  OF  ENGINEERS, 


UNDER  INSTRUCTIONS  FROM 


HON.    JEFFERSON    DAVIS,   SECRETARY   OF   WAR. 


16a 


MEMORANDA  ON  RAILWAYS. 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  November  21,  1854. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  accompanying  memoranda  upon  various  practical  points 
connected  with  the  construction,  &c.,  of  railways. 

For  the  information  therein  contained  I  am  chiefly  indebted  to  Col.  C.  Crozet,  Messrs.  W. 
Raymond  Lee,  William  P.  Parrot,  J.  Edgar  Thompson,  and  William  Parker,  civil  engineers, 
who  most  kindly  afforded  me  all  the  assistance  I  asked. 

The  article  on  tunnels  is  taken  principally  from  a  paper  by  Mr.  W.  L.  Dearborn,  civil  engi 
neer. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

GEO.  B.  McCLELLAN, 

Lieutenant  Engineers  and  Brevet  Captain. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


GRADIENTS. 

The  following  gradients  are  now,  or  have  been,  in  use  on  American  railways  : 

During  the  construction  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad  a  gradient  of  528  was  used  on  a  tem 
porary  track,  en  boyau,  merely  to  transport  small  loads  of  iron,  &c.  On  the  Virginia  Central 
road  the  trains  pass  every  day  over  a  gradient  of  275  feet — length  two  miles.  On  a  part  of  this 
are  curves  of  300  feet  radius  (19°  6')  on  a  grade  of  238  feet ;  40  tons  have  been  carried  up  this 
by  a  30 -ton  engine  on  six  drivers,  with  the  utmost  ease.  Brakes  of  a  peculiar  construction  are 
used,  and  found  to  answer  well.  On  the  "  Virginia  Central"  the  trains  ascend  at  a  velocity  of 
about  seven  miles  per  hour,  and  descend  at  an  average  velocity  of  about  four  miles.  In  descending 
the  steam  is  cut  off  and  the  wheels  of  the  engine  allowed  to  revolve,  the  brakes  on  the  cars  being 
"  hard  down."  Reversed  curves  are  frequent  and  sharp.  On  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  road  are 
grades  of  116  feet  for  17  miles.  Auxiliary  power  is  here  employed,  the  trains  being  divided, 
and  running  up  at  the  rate  of  15  miles  per  hour.  The  trains  descend  these  grades  with  a  velocity 
of  25  miles  under  perfect  control. 

On  the  Pennsylvania  Central  road  there  are  gradients  of  95  feet  for  9f  miles ;  where  curves 
occur  the  grade  is  reduced  at  the  rate  of  0.025  per  100  feet  per  degree  of  curvature.  Passenger 
trains  ascend  this  grade  with  a  velocity  of  24  miles  per  hour,  and  descend  at  20  miles  per  hour. 
The  ascent,  when  there  are  more  than  three  cars,  is  effected  by  the  aid  of  an  additional  engine. 
The  working  load  of  the  heavy  freight  engines  (weighing  65,000  pounds,  and  on  eight  drivers) 
on  the  95-feet  gradient  is  125  tons  net,  or  about  208  tons,  including  tender  and  cars.  Over  the 
53-leet  grades  on  this  road  (Pennsylvania  Central)  the  general  load  of  the  engines  (55,000 
pounds,  on  six  drivers)  is  150  tons  net,  or  about  250  tons,  including  tender  and  cars.  On  the 
Massachusetts  Western  road  are  grades  of  83  feet  for  l£  mile.  Engines  of  20  tons  draw  100  tons 
over  this  grade.  Passenger  trains  run  up  at  about  18  miles  per  hour  without  auxiliary  power. 
The  average  amount  of  wood  consumed  and  cost  of  haulage,  on  the  whole  road,  are  no  greater 
than  upon  other  Massachusetts  roads  of  lighter  grades. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  many  able  railway  engineers  that,  on  a  permanent  track,  grades  of  200  feet, 


11G  FORMULAE. 

and  even  of  250  feet,  may  be  advantageously  overcome  by  locomotive  power ;  it  being  clearly 
understood  that  such  grades  are  to  be  resorted  to  only  in  cases  of  absolute  necessity — economy 
in  working  the  road  rendering  low  gradients  very  desirable. 

The  accompanying  formula?  and  their  applications  show  what  work  is  to  be  expected  from  any 
given  engine  over  given  grades,  and  make  the  loss  of  economy  in  any  particular  case  a  question 
of  easy  solution. 

It  is  evidently  the  fact  that  there  is  at  present  a  strong  tendency  to  use  much  higher  grades  than 
were  formerly  considered  practicable  or  advisable.  Even  in  England  and  on  the  "Continent," 
the  American  system  of  cheap  roads,  with  high  grades,  to  avoid  the  great  expense  of  long  tunnels, 
deep  cuts,  and  high  embankments,  appears  to  be,  to  a  certain  extent,  rapidly  rising  in  repute. 

The  use  of  inclined  planes  with  stationary  power,  (within  the  limits  before  mentioned,)  may,  as 
a  general  rule,  be  considered  obsolete,  except  in  cases  similar  to  that  of  the  Pennsylvania  Central 
road,  where  the  amount  of  traffic  is  becoming  so  great  as  to  require  moie  than  a  double  or  even 
triple  track ;  in  this  case  it  has  been  proposed  to  pass  the  surplus  freight  over  the  mountains  by 
means  of  stationary  power,  reserving  the  locomotive  power  for  passengers  and  freight  requiring 
rapid  transportation. 

Planes  for  stationary  power  should  not  exceed  one  mile  in  length.  The  number  required  to 
overcome  any  given  ascent  will  depend  more  upon  the  elevation  to  be  surmounted  than  the  length 
of  the  ascent. 

The  opinion  has  been  expressed  by  one  of  the  most  reliable  railway  engineers  in  the  country, 
that  where  the  gradient  does  not  exceed  132  feet  per  mile,  locomotive  is  cheaper  than  stationary 
power,  without  reference  to  the  element  of  the  first  cost  of  grading  for  the  two  plans  of  operating 
the  road  ;  also,  that  the  difficulty  and  danger  in  descending  high  grades  is  more  important  in 
determining  their  inclination  than  the  resistance  in  their  ascent. 

In  estimating  the  loss  of  economy  of  power  in  overcoming  high  gradients,  the  comparison 
should  be  made  between  the  loads  habitually  drawn  over  the  more  favorable  portions  of  the  road, 
and  the  maximum  load  that  can  be  drawn  over  the  gradient  in  question. 

FORMULAE. 

To  obtain  the  maximum  load  due  any  engine  of  given  weight,  upon  a  given  grade,  and  to 
obtain  the  maximum  grade  up  which  an  engine  of  given  weight  can  draw  a  given  load : 

0.2A 

(l)x= 

0.4242/+  8 

*    The  engine  and  rail  being  in  good  order. 
0.2A-8Z 


0.4242  x 
0.143A 


0.4242/+  8 

The  rail  being  in  bad  order,  slippery,  greasy,  &c. 
0.143A-8.T   I 


0.4242  x 


In  these  formulae,  A  represents  the  adhesive  weight  of  the  engine  ;  that  is  to  say,  the  portion  of 
the  weight  of  the  engine  actually  supported  by  the  drivers  ;  it  is  expressed  in  pounds.  In 
engines  with  four  drivers  about  0.6  of  the  whole  weight  of  the  engine  rests  upon  the  drivers, 
sometimes  as  high  as  0.67  ;  0.64  may  be  taken  as  the  average.  With  six  drivers  the  whole 
weight  of  the  engine  will  rest  upon  them,  and,  consequently,  be  the  value  of  "A." 


FORMULAE.  117 

"y"  is  the  grade  in  feet  per  mile. 

tkx"  is  the  load  drawn,  including  tender,  and  is  expressed  in  tons. 

Formula?  (2)  and  (4)  are  simply  deductions  by  transposition  from  (1)  and  (3.) 

In  formula?  (1)  and  (3)  the  numerator  expresses  the  effective  adhesive  weight;  that  is  to  say,  it 
expresses  the  portion  of  the  total  adhesive  weight  which  is  found  by  experiment  to  be  really 
effective  in  drawing  a  load  in  certain  states  of  the  rail.  Now,  since  we  know  by  experiment  that 
on  a  level  a  force  of  eight  pounds  is  necessary  to  draw  one  ton,  if  we  divide  the  effective  adhesive 
weight  (expressed  in  pounds)  by  S,  the  quotient  will  be  the  load  due  that  effective  adhesive  weight, 

0.2  A 

and  formula  (1)  will  read  x  = . 

8 

On  a  grade  we  know  that,  in  addition  to  the  force  necessary  to  overcome  the  friction,  it  is  also 
necessary  to  apply  further  power  to  counteract  the  effect  of  gravity. 

Taking  a  load  of  one  ton,  and  calling  "/"  the  height  of  the  plane,  "/"  the  length,  (for  the  value 
of  which  we  may,  in  the  slight  inclinations  given  railway  grades,  substitute  the  value  of  the  base 
of  the  plane,  without  appreciable  error,)  we  have  for  the  tendency  of  one  ton  to  move  down  the 
2240  xf  2240  x  f 

plane ,  or  substituting  for  Z,  5280,  the  number  of  feet  in  a  mile =  0.4242^  "/" 

/  5280 

being  the  height  in  feet  of  a  plane  whose  base  is  one  mile  long. 

This  expression  (0.4242/)  is,  then,  the  measure  of  the  force  required  to  prevent  one  ton  from 
sliding  down  the  plane,  and  must  be  added  to  the  force  necessary  to  overcome  the  friction  of  a 
ton  on  a  level  in  order  to  obtain  the  force  required  to  keep  one  ton  in  motion  up  a  grade. 

Dividing,  then,  by  this  sum  (0.4242y*+  8)  the  disposable  power  of  the  engine  (0.2  A,)  we 
have  the  number  of  tons  that  the  engine  can  draw  up  any  given  grade. 

Engines  usually  weigh  from  20  to  24  tons;  some  as  much  as  30  tons:  it  is  considered  desirable 
to  reduce  the  weight  of  engines  as  much  as  possible,  in  order  to  diminish  the  wear  and  tear  of 
the  rails. 

Most  engines  now  run  with  four  drivers — the  front  of  the  engine  resting  upon  a  truck  with 
eight  small  wheels  ;  some  engines,  particularly  those  intended  for  heavy  grades,  are  placed  upon 
six  wheels,  all  driveis,  in  order  to  increase  the  effective  adhesive  weight.  The  objection  to  mul 
tiplying  the  number  of  drivers  consists  in  the  increased  number  of  joints,  &c.,  with  the  conse 
quent  increase  of  friction  and  loss  of  power. 

A  common  8-wheel  tender  weighs,  empty , 14,000  Ibs. 

Water  for  25  miles,  (12,000  gallons  at  8.35  Ibs.  per  gallon) 10,437     " 

Wood,  (1.44  cord,  at  3,180  Ibs.  per  cord) 4,579     " 

4  passenger  cars,  for  50  passengers  each,  at  12,000  Ibs.  each 48,000     " 

2  baggage  cars,  at  16,000  Ibs 32,000     " 

200  passengers,  at  150  Ibs.  each 30,000     " 

Baggage,  at  100  Ibs.  each  passenger 20,000     " 

Add  for  contingencies 12,224     " 

Total  weight  of  train  of  200  passengers 171 ,240     " 

or  76  tons. 

We  will  now  take  a  20-ton  engine  on  four  drivers  and  apply  the  formula. 

The  total  adhesive  weight  will  be  about 28,600     Ibs. 

Its  maximum  load  on  a  level,  over  a  good  track 715     tons. 

Its  maximum  load  on  a  level,  over  a  track  in  bad  condition,  slippery,  &c 511       " 

By  formula  (2)  we  have  for  the  same  engine  the  maximum  grade  up  which  it 

can  draw  the  train  of  200  passengers,  as  given  in  detail  above 159f  feet. 

By  formula  (4)  we  have  for  same  data  a  maximum  grade  of 109        " 


118  FORMULA. 

By  formula  (1)  we  have  the   maximum  load  of  same  engine  up  a  grade  of  150 

feet 79  tons. 

By  formula  (3)  tor  same  data  we  h;ive  a  maximum  load  of 5Gf      " 

For  a  20- ton  engine  on  six  drivers : 

The  total  adhesive  weight  will  now  be 44.800  Ibs. 

By  formula  (2)  we  have  the  maximum  grade  up  which  it  can  draw  a  load  of  76 

tons 261  feet. 

By  formula  (4)  a  maximum  grade  of 181  " 

By  formula  (1)  with  same  data  we  have  for  a  grade  of  150  feet  a  maximum 

load  of 124  tons. 

By  formula  (3)  with  same  data,  a  maximum  load  of 89  " 

For  a  22-ton  engine  on  four  drivers: 

The  total  adhesive  weight  is  about 31,500  Ibs. 

By  formula  (1)  maximum  load  on  level 787 £  tons. 

By  formula  (3)  maximum  load  on  level 503  " 

By  formula  (2)  the  maximum  grade  up  which  it  can  draw  a  load  of  76  tons  is. .  178  feet. 

By  formula  (4)  it  is 122  " 

By  formula   (1)   the   maximum  load  that  this  engine   can  draw  up  a  150  feet 

grade  is ., 87  tons. 

By  formula  (3)  it  is 62J  " 

For  a  22-  ton  engine  on  six  drivers : 

The  total  adhesive  weight  is 49,280  Ibs. 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  on  a  level  is 1.232  tons. 

By  formula  (2)  the  maximum  grade  up  which  it  can  draw  a  load  of  76  tons  is..  289  feet. 

By  formula  (4)  the  maximum  grade  for  same  load  is 201  " 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  this  engine  can  daw  up  a  grade  of  150  feet  is  137  tons. 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  for  J50  feet  grade  is 98  " 

For  a  24-ton  engine  on  four  drivers: 

The  total  adhesive  weight  is 34,406  Ibs. 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  on  a  level  is 860  tons. 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  on  a  level  is 615  " 

By  formula  (2)  the  maximum  grade  up  which  this  engine  can  draw  a  load  of  76 

tons  is 196  feet. 

By  formula  (4)  the  maximum  grade  for  76  tons  is 135  " 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  this  engine  can  draw  up  a  grade  of  150  feet  is  95  tons. 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  for  same  grade  (150  feet)  is 68£  " 

For  a  24-ton  engine  on  six  drivers : 

The  total  adhesive  weight  is . 53,760  Ibs. 

By  formula  (2)  the  maximum  grade  up  which  this  engine  can  draw  a  load  of  76 

tons  is 317  feet. 

By  formula  (4)  the  maximum  grade  for  same  load  is 221  " 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  this  engine  can  draw  up  a  grade  of  150  feet  is  149  tons. 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  up  same  grade  is .- 

By  formula  (I)  the  maximum  load  this  engine  can  draw  up  a  200-feet  grade  is. 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  up  same  grade  is 83  " 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  up  275  feet  grade  is 86f  " 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  up  same  grade  is 62  " 

For  a  30-ton  engine  on  four  drivers : 

The  total  adhesive  weight  is 43,008  Ibs. 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  on  a  level  is 1,075  tons. 


CURVES— CONSTRUCTION.  119 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  on  a  level  is < 770  tons. 

By  formula  (2)  the  maximum  grade  for  load  of  76  tons  is 250  feet. 

By  formula  (4)  the  maximum  grade  for  76  tons  is 173         « 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  up  a  grade  of  150  feet  is 119J  tons. 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  for  same  grade  is 85        " 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  on  a  200-feet  grade  is 93£      " 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  on  a  200-feet  grade  is 67        " 

For  a  30-ton  engine  on  six  drivers : 

The  total  adhesive  weight  is „ 67,200  Ibs. 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  on  a  level  is 1 ,680  tons. 

By  formula  (2)  the  maximum  grade  up  which  this  engine  can  draw  a  load  of 

76  tons  is 401  feet. 

By  formula  (4)  the  maximum  grade  for  the  same  load  is 281  " 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  this  engine  can  draw  up  a  grade  of  150  feet  is.  186  tons. 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  for  same  grade  is 133£      " 

By  formula  (1)  the  maximum  load  for  grade  of  200  feet  is 146        " 

By  formula  (3)  the  maximum  load  for  the  same  grade  is 104 J      " 

CURVES. 

On  the  Virginia  Central  road  there  are  curves  of  300  feet  radius  on  a  grade  of  328  feet  per 
mile. 

On  a  level,  trains  run  on  curves  of  300  feet  radius  at  a  velocity  of  20  miles  per  hour. 

A  radius  of  150  feet,  and  even  less,  is  practicable;  but  in  such  cases  the  velocity  of  the  train 
must  be  greatly  diminished. 

There- are  various  formula  for  the  calculation  of  the  resistance  on  curves,  but  the  simple  inspec 
tion  of  a  wheel  that  has  been  some  little  time  in  use  will  show  the  inaccuracy  of  the  results. 
The  formulas  are  based  upon  the  supposition  that  the  surface  of  the  tire  is  conical ;  this  shape  is 
soon  destroyed  by  what  is  called  the  channeling  of  the  wheel. 

The  resistances  in  question  can  probably  be  determined  only  by  the  result  of  many  experi 
ments  with  a  dynanometer. 

On  the  Pennsylvania  Central  road  the  grade  is  reduced  on  curves  at  the  rate  of  0.025  per  100 
feet  per  degree  of  curvature. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

To  lay  the  rails. — The  road-bed  being  prepared,  cross-ties  placed,  and  iron  distributed,  a  party 
of  six  men  will  lay  half  a  mile  of  track  per  day. 

The  cross-ties  should  be  prepared  with  corrosive  sublimate;  the  sulphurets  do  not  answer  a 
good  purpose.  20,000  spruce  cross-ties  were  prepared  in  this  way,  and  laid  in  1840;  they  are 
now  perfectly  sound,  although  the  natural  duration  of  the  wood  is  but  Jive  years.  Cross-ties 
average  about  twenty-five  cents  each. 

Shallow  excavations  may  be  covered  with  workmen.  In  the  case  of  deep  excavations,  where  the 
earth  cannot  be  removed  laterally,  sections  of  one-half  mile,  worked  from  both  ends,  are  usually 
most  advantageous ;  this  distance,  however,  will  depend  chiefly  upon  the  relation  between  the 
established  gradients  and  the  natural  surface  of  the  ground.  The  end  of  a  cut  composed  of 
loose  gravel  or  sand  will  accommodate  a  force  capable  of  moving  15  to  20,000  yards  in  a  month. 
In  one  case,  26,000  cubic  yards  of  sand  were  moved  in  that  time,  the  average  haul  being  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile. 

Long,  deep  cuts  of  gravel,  sand,  or  similar  deposite,  can  be  opened,  (working  two  levels  at 
each  end,)  with  an  average  haul  of  one  mile,  at  the  rate  of  15,000  to  25,000  cubic  yards  in  26  days. 

Ordinary  gravel  can  be  dug,  thrown  into  a  car,  and  moved  an  average  haul  of  1,000  feet  for 


120  STATEMENT    OF    WEIGHTS,    COST,    ETC. 

12  cents  to  14  cents  per  cubic  yard;  for  every  additional  100  feet  add  a  third  of  a  cent.     One 
man  shovels  into  a  car  15  yards  to  18  yards  per  day. 

STATEMENT    OF    WEIGHTS,  COST,  &C. 

Locomotives  weigh  from  12  tons  to  30  tons,  generally  from  20  tons  to  24  tons.  They  cost  from 
$5,000  to  $S,500,  freight-engines  being  rather  more  expensive  than  passenger-engines.  This 
includes  the  cost  of  an  ordinary  eight-wheel  tender. 

A  tender  on  sixteen  ichceh,  carrying  about  2,500  gallons  of  water,  will  weigh  about  28,000 
pounds  empty. 

A  tender  on  eight  wheels,  of  1,250  to  1,500  gallons  capacity,  weighs  14,000  pounds  empty. 
A  tank  on  eight  ichccls,  holding  3,000  gallons  water,  will  weigh  less  than  an  eight- wheel  tender, 
and  cost  $650. 

A  tank  on  six  wheels,  of  2,500  gallons  capacity,  costs  $550. 

Baggage-cars  generally  weigh  16,000  pounds,  and  cost  $1,200. 

Passenger-cars  for  50  passengers  weigh  12,000  pounds,  and  cost  $2,000. 

Passenger-cars  for  75  passengers  weigh  14,000  pounds,  and  cost  $2,500. 

Freight-ears  on  eight  wheels  weigh  14,000  pounds,  cost  $650,  and  are  of  about  eight  tons  to 
ten  tons  capacity. 

Passengers  are  usually  allowed  from  50  pounds  to  80  pounds  of  baggage  each. 

The  weight  of  passengers  may  be  estimated  at  150  pounds  each. 

On  the  New  England  roads  the  average  cost  of  the  transportation  of  freight  is  l£  cent  per  ton 
per  mile. 

The  transportation  of  passengers  costs  about  1|  cent  each  per  mile. 

This  is  the  average  of  the  actual  running  cost,  and  does  not  cover  depreciation  of  the  road ;  to 
provide  for  this,  and  to  secure  a  fair  profit,  it  is  generally  stated  that  the  freights  and  fares  charged 
must  be  double  the  amounts  given  above. 

In  Massachusetts  the  average  cost  of  repairing  locomotives  is  (per  annum)  6^  cents  per  mile  run. 
For  repairing  tracks,  exclusive  of  iron  renewals.  11|  cents. 

The  average  durability  of  iron  in  Massachusetts  is  not  more  than  ten  years.  Old  rails  are  re-rolled 
at  a  cost  of  $25  per  ton ;  the  ends  may  be  rewelded  for  $5  per  ton.  In  this  connexion  it  may  be 
remarked  that  the  ends  of  the  rails  first  give  way,  as  a  general  rule;  they  are  repaired  by  cutting 
off  the  injured  part  of  the  upper  flange  and  welding  on  a  piece  of  "Swedes"  bar-iron.  Small 
injuries  in  the  middle  part  of  the  rail  may  be  repaired,  economically,  in  the  same  manner. 

The  average  waste  of  steam  while  engines  are  at  rest,  stopping  on  the  road,  steaming  up,  &c., 
is  one-third  of  the  whole  amount  generated. 

In  Massachusetts,  engines  usually  run  with  a  pressure  of  100  pounds  in  the  boiler.  The 
strength  of  the  boiler  is  from  350  to  500  pounds. 

Rails  are  now  rolled  from  18  feet  to  23  feet  in  length;  on  the  New  England  roads  they  average 
about  60  pounds  to  the  yard ;  90  pounds  to  the  yard  is  recommended  by  many  engineers  as  the 
proper  weight  for  the  Pacific  railway. 

A  cast-iron  wheel  of  the  ordinary  size  will  safely  bear  a  weight  of  l£  ton. 

BRIDGES. 

The  railway  wooden-truss  bridges  cost  from  $30  to  $35  per  running  foot. 

200  feet  has  been  found  to  be  about  the  maximum  length  that  it  can  safely  have;  many  engi 
neers  prefer  reducing  the  spans  to  50  feet. 

Iron  bridges  have  been  successfully  and  economically  used  on  some  railways,  and  cost  $40  per 
foot. 

Many  engineers  prefer,  whenever  it  is  possible,  using  culverts  and  high  embankments  to  the 


WATER   AND    FUEL.  121 

employment  of  bridges,  as  being  the  safer  and  more  economical  plan.     This  course  has  been 
adopted  with  embankments  as  high  as  160  feet. 

WATER    AND    FUEL. 

The  capacity  and  weight  of  tenders  and  tanks  will  be  found  on  page  120. 

To  supply  a  passenger  train,  of  200  passengers,  for  25  miles,  under  ordinary  circumstances  of 
track,  &c.,  there  will  be  required,  of — 

Water 1,250  gallons. 

Wood  (such  as  pine) 1.44  cord. 

Or  of  coal  (anthracite) O.G4  ton. 

Or  of  coke 0.62  ton. 

To  supply  same  train  100  miles — 

Water 5,000  gallons. 

Wood 5.76  cords. 

Or  coal  (anthracite) 2.56  tons. 

Or  coke 2.48  tons. 

The  quantity  of  anthracite  as  given  above  is  on  the  supposition  that  the  train  makes  no  long 
stops ;  in  that  case,  the  amount  would  have  to  be  increased. 

The  average  of  six  trips  on  the  Boston  and  Maine  railway  gives  the  following  result: 

A  load  of  170.5  tons  (weight  of  cars  and  freight,  exclusive  of  engine  and  tender,  in  ton's  of 
2,000  pounds)  was  drawn  74  miles,  at  a  velocity  of  14.5  miles  per  hour,  with  an  expenditure  of 
4,654.5  pounds  of  anthracite,  and  3,348  gallons  of  water. 

The  average  of  eight  trips  gave  as  a  result  that  10.59  pounds  of  anthracite  evaporate  7.48 
gallons  of  water,  or  0.78  ton  to  1,250  gallons  of  water. 

The  trip  with  Cumberland  coal  indicated  that  9.19  pounds  of  it  will  evaporate  7.48  gallons  (1 
cubic  foot)  water,  or  0.64  ton  to  1,250  gallons  of  water. 

On  the  same  road  the  average  of  ten  trips  results  as  follows : 

A  load  of  210  tons  (as  above)  was  drawn  74  miles,  at  a  velocity  of  .14.1  miles  per  hour,  with 
an  expenditure  of  3.4  cords  of  wood,  and  3,734  gallons  of  water. 

These  experiments  were  conducted  in  the  winter  season,  and  the  track  was  more  or  less 
obstructed  by  snow  and  ice,  giving  a  very  unfavorable  state  of  the  rail. 

1  cord  of  beech  evaporates  1,621  gallons  water. 
1  cord  of  spruce         "          1,200  " 

1  cord  of  hemlock      "          1,028  " 

1  cord  of  pitch-pine   "  994  " 

1  cord  of  white-pine  "  906  " 

Cotton-wood  can  be  used,  but  is  one  of  the  least  valuable  species  of  timber  as  a  steam-generator 
per  pound;  and  its  specific  gravity  is  very  low. 

The  result  of  a  year's  work  on  the  Central  road  of  Georgia  shows  that  one  cord  of  wood  was 
used  for  every  sixty-six  and  four-tenths  miles  on  the  road. 

As  pine  wood  is  corded  on  the  tender,  one  cubic  foot  will  evaporate  one  cubic  foot  (7.48  gallons, 
or  62-^  pounds)  of  water. 

One  cord  southern  pine  weighs  3,180  pounds. 

One  cord  common  dry  pine  weighs  2,616  pounds. 

For  passenger  trains  the  water  stations  are  usually  about  25  miles  apart. 

For  freight  trains  12  to  15  miles  is  found  a  convenient  distance  for  replenishing  the  supply. 

Over  ordinary  grades,  say  30  feet  to  40  feel,  there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  carrying  water 
and  fuel  for  100  miles,  either  by  using  additional  tenders,  or  large  ones  made  for  the  especial 
16  a 


122  STATISTICS    OF   VARIOUS    RAILROADS. 

case,  or  tanks;  the  weight,  &c.,  of  these  being  given,  it  becomes  a  simple  matter  of  calculating 
the  extra  Bright  to  be  drawn  in  any  given  case. 

A  partial  remedy  would  be  to  condense  the  exhaust  steam.  This  has  been  clone  in  Scotland 
to  a  certain  extent. 

In  ascending  heavy  grades  water  is  required  oftener  than  usual.  Thus  on  the  heavy  grades  of 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  road  (116  feet)  water  is  taken  every  eight  miles;  on  the  Western  Massa 
chusetts  roul  the  water  stations  are  10  to  12  miles  apart  on  the  heavy  grades.  It  is  to  be 
remarked  that  on  this  road  the  average  consumption  of  wood  is  not  greater  than  on  others  of  less 

heavy  grades. 

When  the  track  is  obstructed  by  snow  it  becomes  necessary  for  the  passenger  trains  to  take  in 
wood  and  water  oftener  than  usual,  using  about  double  the  ordinary  amount. 

STATISTICS    OF    VARIOUS    RAILROADS. 

Boston  and  Worcester  road. 

Length,  45  miles ;  maximum  grade,  37  J  feet;  minimum  radius,  541  feet.  This  distance  is 
accomplished,  by  trains  of  four  to  six  passenger  cars,  in  1^  hour;  consuming  1^  cord  of  wood, 
and  evaporating  1,200  gallons  of  water;  water  is  taken  once  on  the  road. 

Freight  trains  with  maximum  loads  take  water  every  12  to  15  miles. 

An  engine  has  run,  with  a  train,  from  Boston  to  Worcester  and  back  (90  miles)  with  one  cord 
of  wood. 

Boston  and  Providence  road. 

Length,  43£  miles ;  maximum  grade,  37£  feet. 

Trains  of  four  to  six  passenger  cars  run  at  a  velocity  of  25  miles  an  hour,  maintaining  the 
same  up  the  maximum  grade  ;  they  consume  3,500  pounds  of  wood,  and  evaporate  10,000  pounds 
of  water ;  take  water  once  on  the  road,  but  no  wood. 

Freight  trains  as  on  Worcester  road. 

In  severe  snow-storms  passenger  trains  drawn  by  two  or  more  engines  take  water  every  12  to 
15  miles. 

Pennsylvania  Central  road. 

Passenger  trains  wood  and  water  at  from  20  to  30  miles ;  freight  trains  at  an  average  of  10 
miles. 

Boston  and  Maine  road. 

Trains  of  four  to  seven  cars  at  velocities  from  24  to  34  miles  per  hour ;  take  water  every  20 
miles. 

Boston  and  Lowell  road. 

Length,  26  miles. 

Passenger  trains  pass  over  this  distance  in  one  hour ;  take  neither  wood  nor  water ;  evaporate 
1,100  to  1,200  gallons,  and  consume  three  fourths  of  a  cord  of  pine. 

Freight  trains  carrying  maximum  loads  due  the  engine  take  water  once  on  the  road,  and  travel 
with  velocity  of  12  miles  per  hour. 

Burlington  to  Rutland. 

Distance,  67  miles. 

Passenger  trains  take  wood  and  water  once;  freight  trains  take  wood  and  water  four  times. 

Rutland  to  Bellows  Falls. 
Pistance,  53  miles  ;  maximum  grades,  60  feet. 


CHARACTERISTICS    AND    COST    OF    RAILWAYS.  123 

Neither  wood  nor  water  is  taken  on  the  road  in  passenger  trains.  Velocity  up  maximum 
grade,  15  miles  per  hour. 

With  reference  to  the  transportation  of  coal  to  be  used  as  fuel,  it  may.be  stated  that  the  freights 
by  canal  in  New  York  and  Pennsylvania  vary  from  1  *0  to  1  ^  cent  per  ton  per  rnile  ;  that  the 
railroad  freights  on  coal  average  about  l£  cent  per  ton  per  mile;  and,  finally,  that  in  Pennsyl 
vania,  under  very  favorable  circumstances,  coal  can  be  delivered  on  the  canal-boats,  at  the  mine, 
broken,  screened,  and  weighed,  at  55  cents  per  ton.  Taking  the  average  weight  of  hard  wood 
fit  for  generating  steam  at  1J  ton  per  cord,  the  probable  expenses  of  transporting  it  by  railway 
would  be  2^  cents  per  cord  per  mile. 

The  experiments  before  alluded  to  on  the  Boston  and  Maine  road  show  that  1  ton  of  anthracite 
=  1.6  cord  of  wood  (such  as  used  there;)  or  one  cord  of  wood  =  0.625  ton  of  coal,  taking 
evaporating  power  as  the  standard  of  comparison.  The  general  result  of  these  experiments  was 
that  coal  is  more  economical,  especially  with  heavy  loads,  than  wood. 

The  presence  of  metallic  salts  in  water  is  injurious  to  the  boilers;  if  in  large  quantities,  they 
are  prohibitory. 

From  the  data  given  above,  it  would  seem  that  the  cost  of  transportation  of  wood  for  fuel 
would  be  about  2.4  times  that  of  coal  for  the  same  purpose. 

It  will  be  remarked  that  freight  trains  habitually  take  water  oftener  than  passenger  trains;  this 
arises  from  two  principal  causes:  first,  more  steam  is  wasted  in  freight  trains,  on  account  of  the 
great  detentions.  &c.,  as  well  as  other  causes;  secondly,  the  various  water-stations  seldom  give 
sufficient  water  to  afford  a.  full  supply  to  several  trains ;  a  little  is,  therefore,  taken  from  each,  so 
that  no  one  need  be  exhausted. 

Relations  between  weight  of  water  and  fuel,  and  maximum  load  of  engine. 
For  a  22-ton  engine  on  4  drivers,  on  a  level: 

Weight  of  water  and  wood  for  25  miles  =  ^  of  maximum  load  of  engine. 

Weight  of  water  and  wood  for  100  miles  =  /2  of  maximum  load  of  engine. 

Weight  of  water  for  100  miles  and  wood  for  200  miles  =  ^$  of  maximum  load  of  engine. 

Weight  of  water  and  wood  for  200  miles  =  ^  of  maximum  load  of  engine. 

Weight  of  water  and  coal  for  25  miles  =  T^g  of  maximum  load  of  engine. 

Weight  of  water  and  coal  for  100  miles  =  o'g  of  maximum  load  of  engine. 

Weight  of  water  for  100  miles  and  coal  for  200  miles  =  .^s  of  maximum  load  of  engine. 

Weight  of  water  and  coal  for  200  miles  =  ^  of  maximum  load  of  engine. 

The  maximum  load  of  this  engine,  on  a  grade  of  40  feet  per  mile,  is  by  formula  (1)  252  tons; 
by  formula  (3)  180  tons. 

The  relative  consumption  of  fuel  and  water  on  passenger  and  freight  trains  is  in  proportion  to 
the  resistance  to  be  overcome,  and  may  be  determined  when  the  velocity  and  weight  of  each 
train  are  known. 

CHARACTERISTICS    AND    COST    OF    SIX    RAILWAYS. 

1.  Massachusetts  Western  road. 

Length  of  main  road,  155J  miles,  of  which  53  miles  is  double  track;  sidings,  &c.,  8£  miles  : 
equivalent  to  217  miles  single  track.  Maximum  grade,  S3  feet  for  l£  mile;  total  rise  and  fall, 
2,OS5  feet ;  minimum  radius  of  curvature,  882  feet ;  total  degrees  of  curvature,  6,370°  ;  weight 
of  rail  per  yard,  56£  pounds  and  70  pounds  ;  33  way-stations,  59  engines,  48  passenger-cars,  17 
baggage-cars,  1,666  freight-cars;  miles  run  in  one  year,  947,382. 

Graduation  and  masonry,  per  mile  of  main  road $22,352  50 

Wooden  bridges,  (6,092£  fret,)  per  foot $38  08 


124  CHARACTERISTICS   AND    COST    OF   RAILWAYS. 

Superstructure,  per   mile  of  single  track $7,243  78 

Engineering,  per  mile  of  main   road , $1,105  74 

Total  cost  of  road  in  complete  running  order,  per  mile  of  main  road $64,214  56 

Total  cost  of  road  in  running  order,  exclusive  of  land  damages  and  stations,  per 

mile  of  main  road $60,042  52 

Velocity  of  express  trains,  35  miles;  accommodation  trains,  28  miles  ;  freight  trains,  15  miles 
per  hour. 

2.  Boston  and  Lowell  railway. 

Lenijth  of  road,  26  miles,  all  double  track  ;  branches,  sidings,  &c.,  16f  miles  :  equivalent  to 
6Sf  miles  single  track.  Maximum  grade,  10  feet  for  6 J  miles;  total  rise  and  fall,  190  feet; 
minimum  radius  of  curvature,  1,975  feet  ;  total  degrees  of  curvature,  665°  ;  weight  of  rail  per 
yard,  56,  60,  63  pounds;  9  way  stations,  22  engines,  22  passenger-cars,  11  baggage-cars,  308 
freight-cars  ;  miles  run  in  one  year,  27-5,681. 

Graduation  and  masonary,  per  mile  of  main  road $15,475  00 

Wooden  bridges,  (2,397  feet,)  per  running  foot $18  81 

Superstructure,  per  mile  of  single  track $4,967  60 

Engineering,  per  mile  of  main  road $1,632  35 

Total  cost  of  road,  equipment,  &c.,  in  complete  running  order,  per  mile  of  main 

road $78,636  00 

Total  cost  of  road  in  running  order,  exclusive  of  land  damages  and  stations,  per 

mile  of  main  road $39,090  34 

On  the  road  the  land  damages  and  cost  of  depots,  stations,  &c.,  were  enormous.  Velocity 
of  express  trains,  35  miles  ;  accommodation,  25  miles;  freight,  12  miles  per  hour. 

3.  Boston  and  Maine  railway. 

Length  of  road,  74  miles,  of  which  46J  double  track;  branches,  sidings,  &c.,  29J  miles: 
equivalent  to  103  J  miles  single  track.  Maximum  grade,  47£  feet  for  three-fourths  of  a  mile; 
total  rise  and  fall,  1,498  feet;  minimum  radius  of  curvature,  1,050  feet;  total  degrees  of  curva 
ture,  1,988°;  weight  of  rail  per  yard,  56  and  60  pounds;  18  way-stations;  28  engines;  35 
passenger-cars,  13  baggage- cars,  585  freight-cars;  number  of  miles  run  in  one  year,  516,328. 

Graduation  and  masonry  per  mile  of  main  road $11,920  00 

Wooden  bridges,  (9,619  feet,)  per  foot $38  61 

Superstructure,  per  mile  of  single  track $9,517  67 

Total  cost,  in  complete  running  order,  per  mile  of  main  road $55,558  71 

Total  cost  in  running  order,  exclusive  of  land  damages,  stations,  &c.,  per  mile 

of  main  road $38,525  78 

Velocity  of  express  trains,  36  miles  per  hour. 
Velocity  of  accommodation  trains,  24  miles  per  hour. 
Velocity  of  freight  trains,  11  miles  per  hour. 

4.   Boston  and  Providence  railway. 

Length,  43£  miles,  of  which  15f  double  track;  sidings,  branches,  &c.,  19  miles:  equivalent 
to  78J  miles  single  track.  Maximum  grade,  37£  feet ;  total  rise  and  fall,  505  feet;  minimum 
radius  of  curvature,  1,910  feet ;  total  degrees  of  curvature,  342°;  weight  of  rail  yer  yard,  56  to 
58  pounds;  26  way-stations;  20  engines;  31  passenger- cars  ;  9  baggage-cars;  125  freight- 
cars  ;  number  of  miles  run  in  one  year,  305,734. 

Graduation  and  masonry,  per  mile,  main  road $17,625  50 

Wooden  bridges,  per  running  foot $32  00 


COST    OF    RAILWAYS — DEPOTS.  125 

Iron  bridges,  per  running  foot $-10  00 

Superstructure,  per  mile,  single  track $8,390  75 

Engineering,  per  mile,  main  road $2,294  00 

Total  cost  in  complete  running  order,  per  mile,  main  road $81,273  00 

Total  cost  in  running  order,  deducting  land  damages,  stations,  &c.,  per  mile, 

main   road $57,397  00 

Velocity  of  express  trains,  34^  miles  per  hour. 

Velocity  of  accommodation  trains,  25  miles  per  hour. 

Velocity  of  freight  trains,  14  miles  per  hour. 

5.    Vermont  Central  road. 

Length,  124  miles. 

Graduation,  per  mile $14,517  00 

Masonry  and   bridges $6,599  00 

Superstructure,  per   mile $8,594  00 

Engineering $928  00 

Total  cost  in  complete  running  order,  per  mile $55,685  00 

Total  cost  per  mile,  excluding  land,  stations,  &c $49,852  00 

6.  New   York  Northern  road — Ogdensburg. 

Length,  118  miles. 

Grading  and  masonry,  per  mile $15,567  00 

Superstructure $9,545  00 

Bridges $1,203  00 

Engineering $1,099  00 

Total  cost  per  mile,  in  complete  running  order $40,005  00 

Total  cost  per  mile,  exclusive  of  land,  stations,  &c $34,810  00 

Average  of  the  six  preceding  roads. 

Graduation  and  masonry,  per  mile $17,343  00 

Wooden  bridges,  per  running  foot $31   90 

Iron  bi idges,  per  running  foot $40  00 

Superstructure,  including  iron,  per  mile,  single  track $8,042  50 

Engineering,  per  mile,  main  road $1,411   60 

Total  cost  per  mile,  main  road,  in  complete  running  order $62,56J    00 

Total  cost  per  mile,  main  road,  in  running  order,  exclusive  of  land  damages,  sta 
tions,  &e $46,619  00 

Average  of  fifteen  New  England  roads. 

Engineering,  per  mile  of  main  road $1,041  00 

Total  cost,  per  mile  of  main  road,  exclusive  of  land  damages,  stations,  &c $36,305  00 

The  average  of  36  Massachusetts  roads  gives  as  the  velocity  of  passenger  trains  23.8  miles  per 
hour,  and  as  the  velocity  of  freight  trains  13  miles  per  hour ;  and  the  average  cost  per  mile  of 
1,415  miles  of  road  in  the  same  State,  as  $43,659  85  per  mile  of  main  roads. 

DEPOTS,  &c. 

For  a  large  depot  of  an  important  road  an  area  of  about  50  acres  is  necessary,  to  accommo 
date  all  the  requisite  shops,  sheds,  storehouses,  &c. 
For  ordinary  way  stations,  about  5  to  10  acres. 


126  REPAIRS  — TUNNELS. 

An  engine-house  for,  say,  7  engines,  costs,  with  turn-tables,  about $3,500  00 

A  common  way- station  house,  about $1,500  00 

REPAIRS    AND    INSPECTION    OF    TRACK. 

It  is  generally  the  case,  on  our  roads,  that  one  man  carefully  inspects  about  two  miles  of  track 
every  day.  He  makes  all  the  small  repairs  that  are  necessary. 

By  the  use  of  hand-cars,  from  five  to  ten  miles  of  track  could  be  daily  inspected  and  repaired 
by  one  party. 

TUNNELS. 

"  It  is  a  rule  which  may  be  regarded  as  generally  applicable,  that  to  make  a  cutting  more  than 
sixty  feet  deep  would  be  costlier  than  to  '  bore,'  unless  the  material  is  required  for  a  neighboring 
embankment.  Economy  is  the  principal  test  in  these  matters;  for  in  the  present  advanced 
stage  of  engineering,  a  tunnel  may  be  made  of  almost  any  length,  and  through  almost  any  sub 
stance,  from  granite  rock  to  quicksand,  and  therefore  the  nature  of  the  ground  can  hardly  be  said 
lo  oppose  any  other  obstacle  than  that  occasioned  by  the  cost." 

There  is,  however,  an  instance  of  an  excavation  110  feet  in  depth  in  sand. 

Shafts  are  usually  sunk  along  the  line  of  the  tunnel  at  from  500  to  1,000  feet  apart.  On  the 
Blaisy  tunnel  one  shaft  is  046  feet  in  depth;  on  the  Nerthe  tunnel  one  of  610  feet. 

It  is  now  a  quite  generally  received  opinion  that  shafts  are  not  so  necessary  for  the  ventilation 
of  the  tunnel  after  its  completion  as  was  formerly  supposed  to  be  the  case.  Where  it  was  pro 
posed  to  use  machinery  for  excavating,  a  tunnel  of  7.5  miles  miles  has  been  projected  without  the 
use  of  shafts. 

Shafts  are  usually  from  7  to  11  feet  in  diameter. 

The  largest  tunnel  of  which  I  can  find  a  record  is  one  in  the  district  of  Schemnitz,  in  Hungary. 
Its  length  is  variously  stated  at  from  10  to  ll£  miles.  It  is  used  to  drain  an  extensive  series  of 
mines,  and  also  for  the  transportation  of  ore  on  railway  cars. 

The  longest  tunnel  of  large  dimensions  which  I  find  recorded  as  having  actually  been  com 
pleted  is  one  in  France.  It  is  3^  miles  long,  and  a  little  more  than  26  feet  in  diameter ;  54  shafts 
were  employed. 

The  section  of  railway  tunnels  varies  considerably  in  different  countries  and  on  different 
roads.  The  dimensions  of  several  will  be  found  in  the  tables  which  follow. 

Several  machines  for  the  excavation  of  tunnels  have  been  invented.  It  does  not  appear  that 
any  of  them  have  proved  successful  ;  so  that  in  estimating  the  time  necessary  to  construct  any 
proposed  tunnel,  it  will  be  safer  to  base  the  calculation  upon  the  results  of  works  actually  com 
pleted. 

As  a  general  thing,  headings,  as  they  are  called — small  tunnels  in  fact — are  first  driven 
through,  and  afterwards  enlarged,  to  form  the  large  tunnel.  This  method  of  proceeding  has 
great  advantages  in  some  localities,  but  is  not  always  resorted  to. 

The  grades  can  be  so  arranged  in  railway  tunnels  as  to  facilitate  the  drainage  during  the  con 
struction  by  establishing  a  summit  in  the  middle  of  the  tunnel,  thus  allowing  the  water  to  runout 
at  each  end  without  interfering  with  the  work  ;  there  are  instances  of  great  embarrassment 
caused  by  the  neglect  of  this  simple  precaution. 

In  France  there  are  56  tunnels  on  railways;  eight  canals,  36  of  which  have  an  aggregate  length 
of  45.4  miles.  The  longest  of  small  size  is  7.45  miles,  and  that  of  large  dimensions  3.5  miles.  The 
Rouen  and  Havre  road  has  eight  tunnels;  Paris  and  Lyons  also  eight. 

The  aqueduct  from  the  Durance  to  Marseilles  has  three  tunnels,  whose  aggregate  length  is  10.5 
miles. 

That  through  the  Taillades  had  7,320  gallons  of  water  pumped  out  per  minute  during  a  part  of 
the  time  it  was  under  construction. 


TUNNELS.  127 

The  Nerthe  tunnel,  near  Marseilles,  is  15,153  feet  long;  has  twenty-four  shafts,  whose  aggre 
gate  length  is  7,589  feet — the  deepest  being  610  feet.  It  is  in  very  hard  limestone  rock;  is  29^ 
feet  high  by  26^  feet  wide.  The  shafts  are  lined  with  masonry  ;  a  portion  of  the  body  of  the 
tunnel  is  lined  with  masonry,  one,  two,  and  three  bricks  thick  ;  another  portion  is  not  lined  at  all. 
A  semi-circular  brick  aqueduct,  4|  inches  in  diameter,  runs  the  whole  length  of  the  tunnel  under 
the  floor.  The  time  occupied  in  the  construction  is  not  stated. 

The  cost  of  the  Nerthe  tunnel  was  as  follows  : 

For  mining  the  body  of  the  tunnel $705,982  20 

For  mining  the  shafts $109,081  08 

Masonry  for  the  shafts $49,069  31 

Lining  for  the  body  of  the  tunnel $423,711   1  8 

Cost  of  aqueduct , $10,607  10 

Total  cost  of  the  tunnel ,  $1,298,45087 


The  average  cost  of  excavating  the  shafts,  which  are  nine  feet  ten  inches  in  clear  diameter,  was 
per  yard  down ;  the  average  cost  of  the  lining  of  the  shafts  was  $19  40  per  yard  down. 
The  deepest  shaft  cost,  on  the  average,  $73  per  yard  down,  completed. 

Cost  of  mining  the  body  of  the  tunnel,  $139  76|  per  running  yard. 

On  the  German  railways  are  ten  tunnels. 

The  great  "  gallcrie  d'ecculemcnt "  of  the  Clansthal  mines,  through  the  Hartz  mountains,  is  6.5 
miles  long.  It  was  commenced  in  1777  and  completed  in  1800,  (twenty-three  years,)  and  cost 
a  little  more  than  $350,000.  Some  authorities  state  this  tunnel  to  be  7.5  miles  long.  Its  dimen 
sions  are  not  given,  but  it  is  probably  small. 

In  Sardinia  there  is  a  tunnel  two  miles  long,  through  Mt.  Giovi,  on  the  Genoa  and  Turin  rail 
way.  On  this  road,  in  25  miles  through  the  Appenines,  are  nine  tunnels. 

In  Austria  the  Sommerung  tunnel  is  one  mile  long. 

England  has  48  canal  tunnels  of  an  aggregate  length  of  40  miles  ;  the  largest  being  over  three 
miles,  on  the  Huddersfield  canal.  She  has  also  79  railway  tunnels  ;  49  of  which  amount  to  33 
miles,  the  longest  being  three  miles. 

The  London  and  Birmingham  railway  has  eight  tunnels ;  London  and  Dover,  five ;  Newcastle 
and  Dover,  five. 

The  Woodkea.d  tunnel,  between  Manchester  and  Sheffield,  is  a  little  more  than  three  miles  long. 
It  has  five  shafts  ten  feet  in  diameter,  which  vary  from  400  to  600  in  depth.  The  character  of  the 
rock  is  granitic,  being  "mill-stone  rock."  The  tunnel  was  about  five  years  in  construction,  and 
its  whole  cost  was  $1,026,705. 

Uppingham  tunnel,  1,320  feet  in  length,  cost  $120  per  lineal  yard. 

Salt  wood  tunnel,  in  very  wet  sand,  cost  $524  43  per  lineal  yard. 

The  United  States  has  67  tunnels  on  canals  and  railways,  the  longest  of  which  is  about  one 
mile.  Details  are  difficult  to  obtain.  Many  of  them  are  short,  however. 

Baltimore  and  Ohio  road  has  16  tunnels;  Parkersburg  road,  17  ;  Hempfield,  seven. 

The  old  canal  tunnels  cost,  on  an  average,  about  $17  77  per  running  yard. 

Those  of  ordinary  size  for  railways  cost  from  $83  per  lineal  yard,  for  those  in  soft  sandstone  not 
requiring  a  lining  of  masonry,  to  $444  and  $710  per  yard,  in  very  loose  ground,  such  as  quick 
sand,  &c.,  requiring  a  very  tick  lining. 

Ordinary  brick  lining  costs  from  $8  to  $9  per  cubic  yard,  including  centering. 

The  shafts  for  the  Blechingly  tunnel,  10.5  feet  in  diameter,  sunk  in  blue  clay,  and  lined,  cost 
$68  44  per  yard  down.  The  longest  shaft  is  97  feet. 

Those  of  the  Blaisy  tunnel  cost,  lined,  $139  11  per  yard  down.  The  soil  was  of  clay,  chalk, 
and  loose  earth.  Deepest  shaft  646  feet,  and  few  less  than  328  feet. 


128  TUNNELS. 

The  cost  of  shafts  varies  in  proportion  to  their  depth,  &c.,  &c. 

The  cost  of  those  in  the  Black  Rock  tunnel,  Pennsylvania,  in  hard  slate,  was  $79  50  per  yard 
down,  or  $18  72  per  cubic  yard.     The  shafts  were  seven  feet  in  diameter,  and  139  feet  deep. 
The  cost  per  cubic  yard  of  excavating  tunnels  has  been  in  the — 

Black  Rock,  hard  grey wacke  shite,  (U.  S.) $6.60 

Lehigh,  very  hard  granite,  (CJ.  S.) $4.36 

Schuylkill,  slate,  (U.  S.) $2.00 

Union,  slate,  (U.  S.) $2.085 

Ellsworth,  blue  clay,  lined,  (Eng.) $1.545 

Box,  freestone,  marble,  clay,  &c.,  lined,  (Eng  ) $3.464 

Blaisy,  exclusive  of  shafts,  but  including  the  lining,  (France) $3.176 

Blue  Ridge,  cost  per  cubic  yard $4.000 

The  Blaisy  tunnel  cost,  exclusive  of  shafts,  $108  31  per  lineal  foot. 

In  comparing  the  cost  of  tunnels  in  different  countries,  the  difference  of  the  price  of  labor  should 
be  considered.  This  has  not  been  done  in  any  of  the  examples  here  given;  the  actual  cost  in 
pounds  sterling,  &c.,  being  simply  reduced  to  dollars. 

The  time  required  to  drive  the  heading  of  the  Black  Rock  tunnel  was   1,243  days  and  1,144 
nights,  or  2,387  spaces  of  12  hours  each,  for  1,782.5  feet  in  length  of  tunnel. 
For  details  of  this  tunnel,  see  the  following  tables. 

In  the  Kilsby  tunnel,  a  working  shaft  329  feet  deep,  much  troubled  with  water,  was  finished 
in  seven  or  eight  weeks. 

In  hard  rock,  where  continual  blasting  is  required,  two  expert  miners  can  run  a  "  branch"  40 
inches  by  32  inches  to  the  length  of  10.5  inches  in  12  hours. 

A  tunnel  cannot  be  pushed  further  than  500  feet  without  resorting  to  artificial  means  of  venti 
lation. 

Ventilation  is  found  to  be  better  in  cold  weather  than  in  warm. 
Headings  are  about  12  feet  high ;  width  at  base,  that  of  tunnel  at  that  height. 
In  the  table  on  the  succeeding  p?ige, 
P.  L.  means  partly  lined  with  masonry. 
L.         "         lined  with  masonry. 
N.  L.    "         not  lined  with  masonry. 
Z.         "         not  stated. 
S.          "         has  shafts. 
S.  S.     "         supposed  to  have  shafts. 
C.         "         average  depth. 
a.  average  per  running  foot  taken  from  total  cost. 

was  constructed  to  drain  the  lakes  in  the  valley  of  Mexico,  to  prevent  overflows. 
Measures  are  in  feet  and  decimals ; 
Time,  in  working  days  ; 
Cost,  in  dollars  and  decimals. 

(X.) — For  details  of  construction  of  Kilsby  tunnel,  see  American  Railroad  Journal,  vol.  I,  new 
series,  (1838,)  page  229  et  seq. 


TUNNELS. 
Comparative  Table  of  some  of  tJie  largest  Tunnels. 


129 


Name  of  tunnel. 

3 
O 

Formation. 

"s 

53 

H. 
•o 

g 

3 

a 

S: 

Section  of  tunnel. 

S 
1 
a 

S 
d 

<u 

J 

Time  required,  in  days. 

Cost  per  lineal  foot. 

Total  cost. 

Locality. 

Nerthe  
Riqueval  

P.  L. 
P.  L. 
P.  L. 
Z.... 

Z  .... 

Z  ... 

1803 
1824 
1839 

1840 

1841 

1841 
1839 

1834 

1840 
1822 
1837 

1824 
1807 

1796 
1789 

1835 
1846 
1826 
1840 
Z... 

Hard  limestone... 
Chalk  

24... 
54... 

Feet. 
610.. 
210.. 

29.5    X  26.25 
26.25  X  26.25 
20.34  X  20.34 
26.25X26-25 

25.59  X  25.59 

24.94  X  24.94 
24.94  X  24.94 
21.33  X21.33 

27       X  23.50 
24       X  25.05 
30       X38.7 
35       X39 

14       X16 
13.78X  11-48 

16.5    X  18 
15       X15 

19       X  17.23 
26.25X26.25 
22       X16 
27.5    X24 

15,153 
18,623 
10,928 
7,384 

15,752 

8,670 
5,645 
4,548 

7,233 
3,972 

11,880 
9,680 

8,778 
21,659 

9,240 
12,900 

1,932 
13,455 
6,600 
8,607 
15,840 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 
1,298,450 
742.817 
1,245^412 
a.    504,897 

a.1,487,393 

546,099 
355,513 
259,  178 

1,405,417 
423,271 
541,550 
1,434,063 

500,799 

Near  Marseilles.  France. 
St.  Quentin  canal,  France. 
Bourgogne  canal,  France. 
Maine    and  Rhine   canal, 
France. 
Maine   and    Rhine  canal, 
France. 
Rouen  railway,  France. 
Rouen  railway,  France. 
National    road,    No.    126, 
France. 
London   and   Birmingham 
railway,  England. 
London    and   Dover    rail 
way,  England. 
Thames  and  Modway  ca 
nal,  England. 
Great  Western  railway  — 
shafts  25  feet  diameter, 
one-third   of  tunnel    in 
rock  —  England. 
Trent  and  Mersey  canal, 
England. 
Lake  Zuinpango,  Mexico; 
a  Desagua. 
G.  J.  canal,  England. 
Thames  and  Severn  canal, 
England. 
Reading,    Penn.,  railway, 
United  States. 
Paris  and  Lyons  railway, 
France. 
Liverpool  and  Manchester 
railway,  England. 
Mancliesterand  Leeds  rail 
way,  England. 
Manchester  and  Sheffield 
railway,  England. 

2,139 
2,504 

1,878 

2,085 

626 
522 

2,087 

1,252 
626 
939 
1,252 

939 

287 

2,191 

1,878 

39.887 
113.965 
68.38 

94.43 

62.98 
62.98 
50.98 

194.31 
102.86 
45.59 
148.15 

57,05 

Pouilly  

Chalk  and  clay.  .. 
Z  

z  

32... 

S.  S. 

S... 

164.. 
Z  ... 

Z  ... 

Asschviller  

Z  .... 

Chalk  
Z  

s.  s. 

s.  s. 

Z... 

z  ... 

Koule  

Z  .... 

Z.... 

z  

s.  s. 

z  ... 

Kilsby,  (X)  

L.... 
L.... 

Clay  and  sand  .... 

18... 
12... 

164.. 
97... 

Thames  and  Med- 
way. 
Box  

P.  L. 
P.  L. 

L.... 
L.... 

L..,. 
P.  L. 

NL.. 
L  .. 

Chalk  

Marble,  freestone, 
marl,  &c. 

Rock  and  sand.  .  .  . 
Clay  and  marl.... 

Rock  and  clay.... 
Rock  

Greywacke  slate.. 
Chalk,  clay,  &c... 
Clay  and  freestone 
Z.  . 

S.... 
15... 

15... 
S.... 

19... 

S.  S. 

6.... 
22... 
S.... 
14 

194.. 
400.. 

187.. 
164.. 

59... 
246.. 

139.. 
646.. 
Z... 

(c)177 
600.. 

Hare  Castle  
Nochistongo  (D).. 
Blisworth  

23.185 
12.44 

77.18 
136.06 
30.15 
129.61 

214,229 
160,476 

149,  120 
1,830,730 
198,969 
1,115,544 
1,026,705 

Black  Rock  
Blaisy  

1,043 

Edge  Hill  

P.  L. 
L  ... 

Littlebourg  

590 
1,800 

Woodhead  

Z.... 

Millstone  rock.... 

5.... 

A  tunnel  has  been  projected  at  Mt.  Cenis,  on  the  line  of  the  Lyons  and  Turin  railway,  of  the 
length  of  7.6  miles;  the  gradient  in  the  tunnel  to  be  105  feet  to  the  mile;  the  section  of  the 
tunnel  to  be  19  by  25  feet;  no  shafts  to  be  used.  By  the  aid  of  machinery  it  was  expected  to 
complete  this  work  in  five  years,  at  an  expense  of  $2,615,000. 

The  inventor  of  the  machine  and  the  engineer  of  the  road  is  the  Chevalier  Mause.  His  plans 
and  estimates  were  submitted  to,  and  approved  by,  a  board  of  eminent  engineers  and  geologists, 
among  whom  was  the  celebrated  Mr.  Robert  Stevenson. 

The  tunnel  projected  through  the  Hoesack  mountain  was  to  have  been  4£  miles  long,  23  feet 
by  22  feet ;  two  shafts  about  850  feet  and  750  feet  deep,  10  feet  in  diameter.  The  cost  variously 
estimated  at  from  $2,000,000  to  $3,000,000.  Time  estimated  by  different  engineers  at  from 
four  to  ten  years.  The  machinery  designed  for  boring  did  not  succeed,  and  the  project  has  not 
as  yet  been  commenced  seriously. 

At  the  crossing  of  the  Blue  Ridge  by  the  Virginia  Central  railroad  there  are  four  tunnels.  The 
main  tunnel  is  4,280  feet  in  length ;  has  been  four  years  under  construction,  and  is  estimated  to 
require  two  years  more  to  complete  it.  No  shafts  are  used.  It  is  ventilated  by  machinery. 
A  portion  of  it  is  lined.  It  is  for  a  single  track,  and  is  in  the  clear  21  feet  high  by  15  feet  in  width. 
Where  lined,  the  abutments  of  the  lining  are  4  feet  thick ;  the  arches  3  feet  thick.  The  excavation 
in  these  places  is  26  feet  high  by  23  feet  wide. 

A  portion  of  one  of  the  small  tunnels  is  through  a  very  difficult  formation  of  loose  rock  and 
earth.  In  the  main  tunnel  much  trouble  is  experienced  from  the  water. 

The  main  tunnel  is  700  feet  below  the  crest  of  the  mountain  through  which  it  passes.     The 

workmen  are  arranged  in  three  reliefs,  and  work  night  and  day.     No  machinery  is  used  for  boring 

or  excavating.     It  is  the  opinion  of  the  engineer  that  no  machinery  can  be  applied  when  the  tunnel 

requires  lining,  for  want  of  space.     He  states  that  no  excavating  machine  has  yet  been  successful. 

IT  a 


130  SNOW — FREIGHTS — CATTLE,    ETC. 

SNOW. 

The  roads  in  Massachusetts,  with  rare  exceptions,  find  little  difficulty  in  clearing  the  track  from 
snow  in  the  course  of  one  day.  They  only  fail  to  do  so  when  the  snow  drifts  badly,  and  packs  hard. 

To  open  the  road,  from  two  to  five  engines  are  attached  to  each  train,  with  a  snow-plough  in 
front.  The  train  pushes  through  until  stopped,  when  it  backs  off  and  again  advances. 

Snow  to  the  depth  of  five  or  six  feet,  as  a  maximum,  can  be  cleared  in  this  manner.  With 
higher  ploughs  and  additional  power,  it  is  possible  that  slightly  greater  depths  of  light  snow  may 
be  worked  through. 

Snow  a  foot  deep  does  not  present  a  very  great  obstacle — that  is  to  say,  the  train  makes  regular 
progress  at  reduced  speed. 

Embankments  are  far  less  obstructed  than  cuts. 

Cuts  of  twenty  feet  deep,  and  upwards,  are  less  obstructed  than  those  of  from  five  to  ten  feet. 

Alongside  of  cuts  like  the  latter,  snow  fences  are  used.  These  are  board  fences,  about  eight 
feet  high,  placed  some  twelve  feet  back  from  the  edge  of  the  excavation. 

Drifting  snow  obstructs  a  train  far  more  than  a  settled  fall ;  for  when  the  engine  is  brought  to 
a  state  of  rest,  and  finds  it  necessary  to  "back"  in  order  to  obtain  a  new  impetus,  the  snow 
blows  in  under  the  wheels,  and  sometimes  "  blocks  "  the  train  so  that  it  cannot  move  either 
way.  In  such  cases  a  large  manual  force  is  necessary  to  clear  all  the  wheels  at  once. 

Men  and  shovels  are  always  carried  on  the  train  when  the  fall  of  snow  is  great,  in  order 
partially  to  open  heavy  drifts  and  to  provide  for  the  contingency  of  the  train  being  blocked. 

Freight  trains  should  be  discontinued  until  the  road  is  opened ;  the  work  being  done  by  the 
passenger  trains. 

Light  dry  snow  is  by  no  means  so  serious  an  obstacle  as  wet  heavy  snow,  except  in  regard  to 
its  liability  to  drift. 

In  opening  the  road  over  heavy  gradients,  commence  working  from  the  summit. 

When  the  snow  opposes  a  considerable  resistance  the  engines  use  about  double  the  usual 
quantity  of  fuel  and  water. 

Snow-ploughs  are  generally  of  two  sizes;  the  larger  sizes  are  from  nine  to  ten  feet  high,  and 
about  seven  feet  broad;  the  smaller  are  about  four  feet  high  by  seven  feet  broad,  and  are  some 
times  of  iron. 

FREIGHTS. 

Average  freights  during  the  last  eight  years  from  Calcutta  to  Boston  $15  per  ton. 
Average  for  same  time  from  Calcutta  to  London  $17  per  ton. 
From  Canton  to  the  United  States  $10  to  $18  per  ton. 
From  Canton  to  England  $26  per  ton. 
From  Shanghai  to  the  United  States  $10  to  $20  per  ton. 
From  Shanghai  to  England  $26  to  $30  per  ton. 

Freights  from  Boston  to  San  Francisco  average  since  1849,  $22  per  ton ;  at  present,  $12 
per  ton. 

Average  freight  from  China  and  the  East  Indies  to  San  Francisco  $13  per  ton. 
Silks  usually  pay  $5  per  ton  more  than  teas. 

CATTLE,  &C. 

The  total  number  of  live  stock  carried  over  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railway  during  the  year 
ending  September  30,  1854,  was  164,869,  of  which  number  75,575  were  transported  a  distance 
of  368  miles. 

At  the  same  rate  of  freight  as  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  road  it  would  cost  about  $36  per  head 
for  horned  cattle  from  Fort  Smith  to  San  Francisco,  and  about  $42  per  head  from  Memphis. 

To  transport  horses  and  mules  by  railroad  from  Memphis  to  San  Francisco,  by  way  of  Fort 
Smith,  would  cost  about  $47  per  head. 


REPORT 


THE  COST  OF  TRANSPORTING  TROOPS  AND  SUPPLIES 


CALIFORNIA,   OREGON,   NEW  MEXICO, 


ETC.,    ETC. 


BY 


MAJOR  GENERAL  THOMAS  S.  JESUP, 


QUARTERMASTER  GENERAL,  U.  S.  ARMY. 


COST  OF  TRANSPORTING  TROOPS,  &c. 


QUARTERMASTER  GENERAL'S  OFFICE, 

Washington  City,  November  16,  1854. 

SIR:  In  reply  to  your  letter,  dated  trie  8th.  instant,  asking  information  in  regard  to  trans 
portation,  I  have  the  honor  to  report,  in  answer  to  the  "1st. — The  present  cost  of  transporting 
troops  to  San  Francisco  and  Fort  Vancouver,  via  the  Isthmus,  how  much  for  each  officer  and 
soldier ;  stating  whether  the  price  includes  their  food,  and,  if  not,  what  additional  amount  is 
paid  for  food,  or  the  transportation  of  their  rations  and  arms," — that  the  last  troops  sent  to 
San  Francisco,  via  the  Isthmus,  (in  May,  1854,)  their  transportation  was  as  follows:  $225  for 
each  commissioned  officer;  $150  for  each  enlisted  soldier,  laundress,  &c. 

The  whole  were  subsisted  by  the  contractor;  100  pounds  of  baggage  allowed  to  each  person 
oni- the  steamers,  and  25  pounds  each  across  the  Isthmus;  all  over  the  25  pounds  across  the 
Isthmus  to  be  paid  for  at  15  cents  per  pound.  No  troops  have  been  sent  from  the  Atlantic 
coast  direct  to  Vancouver  or  Oregon,  via  the  Isthmus.  For  those  sent  from  San  Francisco, 
California,  to  Vancouver  or  Oregon,  in  June,  1853,  $75  was  paid  for  each  commissioned  officer, 
and  $40  for  each  enlisted  soldier,  &c.,  and  $30  a  ton  for  stores.  In  December,  1853,  $15  a 
ton,  and  in  February,  1854,  $20  a  ton,  for  stores. 

From  information  received  from  New  York  since  the  receipt  of  your  letter,  I  learn  that  the 
company  now  demands  $300  for  each  officer,  and  $150  for  each  enlisted  soldier,  from  New 
Orleans  to  San  Francisco,  including  the  transit  of  the  Isthmus — extra  baggage  to  be  paid  for 
at  15  cents  per  pound. 

To  the  "2d. — What  is  the  cost  of  the  transportation  of  provisions,  in  bulk,  to  San  Francisco 
and  Fort  Vancouver,  via  the  Isthmus,  and  also  via  Cape  Horn," — I  have  to  report  that  no  pro 
visions  or  other  public  stores,  in  bulk,  have  been  sent  to  San  Francisco  or  Fort  Vancouver,  via 
the  Isthmus;  but  from  information  just  received  from  New  York,  I  learn  that  the  present 
charges  by  that  route  are  $14  a  ton  to  Aspinwall,  $300  a  ton  (15  cents  per  pound)  across  the 
Isthmus,  and  $80  a  ton  from  Panama  to  San  Francisco — say  $394  a  ton  of  2,000  pounds.  The 
agents  of  the  line  think,  that  when  the  railroad  across  the  Isthmus  shall  be  completed,  the 
freight  across  will  not  exceed  one-fourth  of  the  above,  $75  a  ton — say  $169  for  the  whole  dis 
tance.  Via  Cape  Horn  to  San  Francisco,  or  Benicia,  subsistence  stores  have  been  shipped 
during  the  present  year  from  Baltimore  at  90  cents  per  cubic  foot,  $4  50  per  flour-barrel ;  and 
from  New  York  at  $3  *70  per  barrel  for  flour,  and  60  cents  per  cubic  foot  for  other  packages. 

To  the  "3d." — The  same  rates  will  apply  to  camp  and  garrison  equipage  and  clothing  ;  as 
all  such  freight,  by  sea-going  vessels,  is  charged  for  by  the  cubic  foot. 

To  the  "4th,"  I  have  to  report  that  ordnance  and  ordnance  stores  have  been  sent  from  New 
York,  via  Cape  Horn,  in  June,  1854,  at  two  cents  per  pound  for  ordnance,  consisting  of  heavy 
guns,  carriages,  shot  and  shells ;  in  August  at  $28  per  ton  for  the  same,  and  in  October  at  two 
cents  a  pound  for  the  heavy  ordnance ;  and  60  cents  per  cubic  foot  for  ammunition,  and  other 
boxes,  &c.  None  have  been  sent  via  the  Isthmus. 

To  the  "5th"  I  report,  that,  during  the  present  year,  the  contracts  for  the  transportation  of 
military  stores  of  all  kinds  are  as  follows : 

From  Fort  Leavenworth  to  El  Paso,  $14  per  100  Ibs. 


134  COST  OF  TRANSPORTING  TROOPS,  ETC. 

From  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort  Fillmore,  $13  75  per  100  Ibs. 

From  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Albuquerque,  $10  83  per  100  Ibs. 

From  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort  Union,  $7  96  per  100  Ibs. 

No  transportation  has  ever  been  paid  for  men,  as  they  march,  the  only  cost  being  for  the 
transportation  of  their  baggage,  subsistence,  &c.,  on  the  route.  This  may  be  estimated  at 
about  $15  per  man  to  Albuquerque.  The  above  are  about  the  average  rates  for  several  years 
past,  and  it  may  be  presumed  will  be  those  for  the  future. 

As  to  what  was  the  cost  of  transporting  artillery  and  supplies  from  the  city  of  New  York  to 
the  northern  frontier  in  the  war  of  181 2-' 14,  this  office  furnishes  no  information,  and  I  think 
it  would  be  extremely  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  ascertain  what  were  the  average  rates. 
There  were  no  permanent  or  Macadamized  roads  in  northern  New  York  during  that  period, 
and  the  passage  of  heavy-loaded  wagons,  at  the  best  of  times,  extremely  difficult  and  slow.  It 
may  be  fair  to  presume  that  each  ton  cost  at  the  rate  of  $5  (the  daily  cost  of  a  wagon  and 
team)  for  each  ten  miles  of  distance  from  Albany  to  the  different  points  on  the  frontier  when 
the  roads  were  in  the  best  condition,  and  double  this  in  the  spring  and  fall  of  the  year — say 
from  fifty  cents  to  one  dollar  a  mile  for  each  ton  transported. 

For  General  Harrison's  army  on  the  northwestern  frontier,  there  were  instances  when  the 
teams,  loaded  with  forage,  not  only  consumed  all  they  were  transporting  to  that  army,  but 
had  to  draw  forage  from  the  army  depots  to  enable  them  to  return.  Much  of  the  subsistence 
intended  for  the  army  was  also  consumed  by  the  teamsters  and  escorts  en  route. 

Since  writing  the  above,  I  have  information  from  New  York  that  heavy  freight  can  now  be 
sent  to  San  Francisco  at  about  $15  a  ton,  and  30  cents  per  foot  for  measurement  goods,  and 
that  a  vessel  could  be  chartered  for  Fort  Vancouver  at  $20  a  ton.  These  rates  should  not, 
however,  be  taken  as  ruling  for  the  coming  year,  freight  of  all  kinds  being  extremely  low  at 
this  time. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be  your  obedient  servant, 

TH.  S.  JESUP, 

Quartermaster  General. 

Hon.  JEFFN.  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


EXPLORATIONS  AND  SURVEYS  FOR  A  RAILROAD  ROUTE  FROM  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER  TO  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 

WAR    DEPARTMENT. 


REPORT 


EXPLORATIONS  FOR  A  ROUTE  FOR  THE  PACIFIC  RAILROAD, 


NEAR    THE 


FORTY-SEVENTH  AND  FORTY-NINTH  PARALLELS  OF  NORTH  LATITUDE, 


ST.    PAUL    TO    PUGET    SOUND 


I.   I.   STEVENS, 

GOVERNOR  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


PART   I. 

Page. 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Steamer  Nominee,  Upper  Missouri,  May  27, 1853 1 

Object  of  the  exploration 2 

General  organization  of  the  expedition 3 

Programme  of  meteorological  observations 5 

Memoranda  iu  relation  to  sketches  in  natural  history,  geology,  botany,  and  to  views  of  scenery  and  natural  objects 7 

Instructions  for  magnetic  observations 8 

Memoranda  in  reference  to  natural  history  operations 9 

Directions  for  miueralogical  and  geological  examinations 11 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Camp  Pierce,  June  3,  1853 13 

Eeport  of  reconnaissance  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  from  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Eipley,  by  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander.  St.  Paul,  May 

22,1853 14 

Letter  of  instructions  from  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander.  Camp  Pierce,  May  31,  1853 16 

Letter  of  instructions  from  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  Mr.  A.  W.  Tinkham.  Camp  Pierce,  May  31,  1853 17 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Camp  Davis,  near  Sank  rapids,  June  10,  1853 18 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Camp  McClelland,  west  side  of  Cheyenne  river,  July  4,  1853  19 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Camp  Gushing,  near  Fort  Union,  August  18,  1853 20 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Fort  Benton,  September  8,  1853 22 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Fort  Benton,  September  8,  1853 „  23 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Fort  Bentou,  September  8, 1853 24 

Letter  of  Captain  G.  B.  McClellan,  corps  of  engineers,  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Camp  at  Ketetas,  on  Yakirna  river, 

September  18,  1853 24 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  giving  statement  of  results  already  accomplished,  work  to  be 

done  during  the  fall  and  winter,  and  work  proposed  from  the  resumption  of  operations  in  the  spring  to  the  close  of 

the  next  fiscal  year.  Fort  Bentou,  September  18,  1853 26 

Order  issued  on  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Saxton  at  Fort  Benton,  September  15,  1853 33 

Instructions  to  Lieutenant  C.  Grover,  September  5,  1853 34 

Instructions  to  Lieutenant  J.  Mullan,  September  8,  1853 34 

Instructions  to  Lieutenant  A  J.  Donelson,  September  7,  1853 35 

Instructions  to  Lieutenant  A.  J.  Donelson,  September  7,  1853 - — 38 

Instructions  to  Lieutenant  A.  J.  Donelson,  September  14, 1853 38 

Instructions  to  Lieutenant  R.  Saxton,  September  19,  1853 39 

Instructions  to  Mr.  James  Doty,  September,  1853 41 

Orders 41  to  52 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  Captain  J.  W.  T.  Gardner,  relieving  him  from  duty  on  account  of  ill  health.  Camp 

Pierce,  June  3,  1853 - 52 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  submitting  statement  of  operations  since  report  from  Fort 

Benton.  Olympia,  W.  T.,  December  5,  1853 52 

Letter  of  Lieutenant  J.  Mullan  to  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens,  reporting  arrival  at  St.  Mary's  village  from  Fort  Benton.  St. 

Mary's  village,  W.  T.,  October  2,  1853 59 

Instructions  to  Lieutenant  J.  Mullan,  October  3,  1853 - 61 

Instructions  to  Lieutenant  A.  J.  Douelson,  October  2,  1853 62 

Instructions  to  Dr.  George  Suckley,  October  2,  1853 64 

Instructions  to  Mr.  A.  W.  Tinkham,  October  3,  1853 , 64 

Instructions  to  Mr.  James  Doty,  October  3, 1853 65 

Instructions  to  Lieutenant  C.  Grover,  October  3,  1853 - 66 

Order,  dated  Camp  Washington,  October  29,  1853 66 

Instructions  to  Lieutenant  K.  Arnold,  October  29,  1353 67 


iy  CONTENTS. 

I' age. 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  Dr.  George  Suckley.    Camp  Washington,  October  29,  1853 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  Lieutenant  John  Mullau.    Cauip  Washington,  October  29,  1853 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  Mr.  A.  W.  Tiukhaui.     Camp  Washington,  October  29,  1853 69 

Letter  of  Governor  1. 1.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  stating  progress  of  the  exploration.     Olympia,  W.  T.,  De 
cember  19,  1853 

Letter  of  the  Secretary  of  War  to  Governor  1. 1.  Stevens.    Washington,  December  1,  1853 72 


PAKT    II. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Instructions  of  Secretary  of  War,  dated  Washington,  April  8,  1853 73 

CHAPTER  II. 

4     Reid  explored  by  diflerent  parties 76 

CIIAFTER  III. 

General  description  of  region  examined  and  results  accomplished. — General  salubrity  of  the  region 81 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Railroad  practicability  of  the  section  to  the  base  of  the  mountain. — Geographical  importance  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux. — 
Navigability  of  the  Missouri 83 

CHAPTER  V. 
Details  of  excavations  and  embankments. — Supplies  of  wood,  water,  stone,  and  other  materials 89 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Railroad  practicability  of  the  Rocky  and  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains. — Description  of  the  ranges  and  of  the  several  passes.  96 

CHAPTER  VII. 
General  geographical  description  of  the  Rocky  mountains 102 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
General  characteristics  of  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  and  navigability  of  the  Columbia  river 107 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Description  of  the  Cascade  mountains  and  the  pass  of  the  Columbia  river Ill 

CHAPTER  X. 
Resources  and  geographical  importance  of  Puget  sound,  and  its  relation  to  the  trade  of  Asia 1J3 

CHAPIER  XI. 
Railroad  practicability  of  the  Snoqualrne  Pass 117 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Resume  of  the  line  from  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  Puget  sound - 121 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
Comparison  of  the  distances  on  several  routes 126 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
Meteorology  of  the  field  explored 128 

CHAPTER  XV. 
Plan  of  construction  and  details  of  the  roade.— -Use  of  wagon-road  in  connexion  with  railroad.— Estimate  of  cost 141 


CONTENTS.  V 

CHAPTEE  XVI. 

Page. 
Governmental  aid  in  connexion  with  the  construction  of  the  road. — Indians  on  the  route 146 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Establishment  of  military  posts. — Extinguishment  of  Indian  titles. — Encouragement  to  be  given  to  settlements. — 

Wagon-roads 151 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Papers  annexed  to  the  report. — Maps  accompanying  the  report. — Field  remaining  to  be  explored. — Concluding  obser 
vations 155 

PAPERS  ACCOMPANYING  GOVERNOR  STEVENS'S  REPORT. 

/    A  1. — Report  of  the  topography  of  the  route  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Columbia,  by  Mr.  John  Lambert, 

topographer  of  the  exploration.    Washington,  D.  C.,  June  ],  1854 160 

A  3. — Medical  report  for  eastern  division,  by  Dr.  George  Suckley,  assistant  surgeon  United  States  army.    Steilacoom, 

Puget  Sound,  W.   T.,  January  4,  1854 177 

Medical  report  of  Dr.  J.  G.  Cooper,  surgeon  of  the  exploration.  Fort  Vancouver,  December  26,  1853 179 

B  4. — Railroad  practicability  of  the  Cascades  and  of  the  line  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  by  Captain  George  B.  McClellan, 

corps  of  engineers,  U.  S.  A.,  in  command  of  the  western  division.    Olympia,  W.  T.,  February  8,  1854 180 

B  5. — Railroad  practicability  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  and  the  obstructions  to  be  apprehended  from  snow,  by  Mr.  A. 

W.  Tinkham.     Washington,  D.  C.,  June  19,  1854 184 

B  6. — Report  on  the  railroad  practicability  of  the  pass  of  the  Columbia  river,  by  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander,  civil  engineer. 

Olympia,  W.  T.,  January  5,  1854 186 

C  7. — General  report  of  Captain  G.  B.  McClellan,  corps  of  engineers,  U.  S.  A.,  in  command  of  the  western  division. 

Olympia,  W.  T.,  February  25,  1853 188 

Letter  of  instructions  from  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  Captain  G.  B.  Mc'Clellan,  corps  of  engineers,  U.  S.  A. 

Washington,  D.  C.,  May  9,  1855 203 

C  8. — Topographical  report  of  Lieutenant  J.  K.  Duncan,  U.  S.  A.,  topographer  of  the  western  division.     Olympia, 

W.  T.,  February  21,  1854 203 

i    C  9. — Natural  history  report  of  Dr.  J.  G.  Cooper,  naturalist  of  the  western  division 2J9 

D  10.— Report  of  the  Dead  Colt  Hillock  line,  by  Lieutenant  C.  Grover,  U.  S.  A.     Fort  Union,  August  7, 1853 222 

D  11. — Report  of  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander,  assistant  engineer,  of  the  crossings  of  the  Mississippi.     St.  Paul,  May  22,  J853-.          224 

D  J2. — Report  of  Mr.  A.  W.  Tinkham,  assistant  engineer,  of  his  reconnaissance  of  the  Three  Buttes,  and  of  his  recon 
naissance  on  the  route 226 

E  14. — Report  of  Lieutenant  A.  J.  Donelson,  corps  of  engineers,  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  survey  of  the  Missouri  to  Fort  Union, 
and  of  his  reconnaissance  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Union,  between  the  White  Earth  and  the  Big 
Muddy  river.  Olympia,  W.  T.,  March  8,  1854 231 

E  15. — Report  of  Lieutenant  C. Grover,  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  survey  of  the  Upper  Missouri,  from  the  Great  falls,  to  connect 

with  the  survey  of  Lieutenant  Donelsou .- 247 

E  16. — Report  of  Lieutenant  R.  Saxtou,  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  trip  in  a  keel-boat  from  Fort  Benton  to  Fort  Leaven  worth, 

and  of  the  navigability  of  the  Missouri  river  by  steamers.     Washington,  D.  C.,  June  8,  1854 249 

F  17. — Report  of  the  route  of  Lieutenant  R.  Saxton,  U.  S.  A.,  from  the  Columbia  valley  to  Fort  Owen,  and  thence  to 

Fort  Benton.     Washington,  D.  C.,  February,  1854 251 

F  18. — Report  of  Lieutenant  Douelson  as  to  the  railroad  practicability  of  the  route  from  Fort  Benton,  by  Lewis  and 
Clark's  and  Cadotte's  Passes,  Blackfoot  trail,  the  Bitter  Root  and  Jocko  lines,  to  Clark's  fork,  and  thence 

across  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia  to  Wallah- Wallah.     Olympia,  W.  T.,  February  23,  1854 269 

Report  of  A.  W.  Tinkham,  giving  the  result  of  examinations  as  to  a  cut-off  from  the  Blackfoot  trail  to  Clark's 

fork 273 

Extracts  from  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander's  report  of  February  15,  1854,  to  Governor  Stevens,  giving  results  of  personal 
examinations  in  connexion  with  the  railroad  survey  of  Lieutenant  Donelson  from  Fort  Benton  to  Wallah- 
Wallah : 275 

F  19. — Report  of  Mr.  A.  W.  Tinkham,  assistant  engineer,  as  to  the  railroad  practicability  of  the  line  of  the  Marias  Pass 
of  the  northern  Little  Blackfoot  trail,  and  of  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail.  Washington,  D.  C.,  July  19, 
1854 276 

F  21. — Report  of  Lieutenant  R.  Arnold,  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  route  from  the  mouth  of  Clark's  fork,  by  Fort  Colville,  the 

Grand  Coulee,  and  the  mouth  of  Snake  river,  to  Wallah- Wallah.     Olympia,  W.  T.,  February  5, 1854 282 

F  22. — Report  of  Lieutenant  R.  Macfeely,  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  return  from  Fort  Owen  to  Wallah-Wallah.     Fort  Vancouver, 

W.  T.,  January  20,  1854 286 

G  23. — Report  of  Doctor  George  Suckley,  assistant  surgeon  United  States  army,  of  his  trip  in  a  canoe  from  Fort  Owen 

down  the  Bitter  Root,  Clark's  fork,  and  Columbia  rivers,  to  Vancouver , 291 


VI  CONTENTS. 

Pago. 

G  24. — Report  of  an  exploration  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  Flathead  camp  beyond  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  and  thcnco 
by   the   southern  Little  Blackfoot   river  to  the   St.  Mary's  village,  by  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  U.  S.  A. 

Bitter  Root  Valley,  January  20,  1854 301 

G  25. — Report  of  an  exploration  from  Cantonment  Stevens  to  Fort  Hall  and  back,  by  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  U.  S. 
A. :  with  his   route  up  the  St.  Mary's,  to  and  up  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri.     Bitter  Root  Valley, 

W.  T.,  November  19,1853 319 

G  2G. — Report  of  route  from  Cautonment  Stevens  to  Fort  Benton  and  back,  by  Lieutenant  John  Mullau,  U.  S.  A. 

Bitter  Root  Valley,  April  2,  iar>4 - 34!) 

II  27.— Itinerary  of  the  route  from  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Union 352 

H  2$. — Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Benton 358 

II  ^y. — Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Fort  Benton  to  Cadotte's  Puss,  the  Jocko  river,  and  Clark's  fork,  to  Wallah- 
Wallah,  with  an  estimate  of  the  time,  labor,  and  cost  of  making  a  practicable  wagon-road 3GO 

II  30. — Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Hell  Gate  over  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains  to  the  Ctmr  d'Aleue  mission,  and 

thence  to  the  intersection  of  the  route  given  in  H  29 365 

II  31. — Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Fort  Benton,  by  the  northern  Blackfoot  trail,  to  Fort  Owen 369 

H  32. — Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Fort  Owen,  by  the  Jocko  river,  Flathead  lake,  and  Marias  Pass,  to  Fort  Beiiton. ..  371 

H  33. — Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Fort  Owen  by  the  southern  Nez  Forces  trail  to  Wallah-Wallah 374 

H  34  —Itinerary  of  Captain  McClellau's  route LJ77 

I   35. — Report  of  Lieutenant  S.   Mowry,  U.  S.  A.,   to   Captain  G.   B.  McClellan,  United  States  engineers,  of  the 

meteorology  of  the  Cascades.     Olympia,  W.  T.,  February  10,  1854 389 

I  36. — Report  of  the  meteorology  of  the  route,  taken  by  Lieutenant  C.  Grover,  U.  S.  A.,  from  Fort  Beutou  to  Wallah- 
Wallah 396 

^    I  37. — Report  of  Mr.  A.  W.  Tinkham  of  the  snows  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  in  November ;  of  the  Bitter  Root,  iu  Decem 
ber;  and  of  the  Cascades,  in  January.    Washington,  D.  C.,  August  12,  1854 399 

j  I  38. — Letter  of  the  Hon.  H.  M.  Rice,  and  extracts  from  letters  of  Hon.  H.  H.  Sibley  and  A.  Culbertson,  Esq.,  as  to  the 

winter  climate  of  the  region  extending  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Rocky  mountains 400 

J  39. — Report  of  Mr.  George   Gibbs  to  Captain  McC'lellan  on  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  Territory  of  Washington. 

Olympia,  W.  T.,  March  4,  1854 402 

J  40. — Report  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  U.  S.  A.,  on  the  Indian  tribes  in  the  eastern  portion  of  Washington  Territory. 

Bitter  Root  Valley,  W.  T.,  November  18,  1853 437 

-  J  41. — Reports  of  Mr.  James  Doty  on  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  Blackfoot  nation.     Fort  Bouton,  December,  1853 441 

J  42. — Report  of  Mr.  J.  M.  Stanley's  visit  to  the  Piegan  camp  at  the  Cypress  mountain.     Washington,  D.  C.,  January 

19,  1854 447 

Letter  of  the  Secretary  of  War  to  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens.    Washington,  July  25,  1854 449 

,    Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  with  statement  of  partial  results  of  the  exploration,  latitudes 

and  longitudes,  and  barometric  and  meteorological  observations.     Washington,  D.  C.,  August  4,  1854 450 

Report  of  George  Gibbs  on  a  reconnaissance  of  the  country  lying  upon  Shoal  Water  bay  and  Puget  sound.     Olympia, 

WT.T.,  March  1,  1854 465 

Report  of  George  Gibbs  upon  the  geology  of  the  central  portion  of  Washington  Territory.     Olympia,  W.  T.,  May  1, 

1854 473 

Final  report  of  Lieutenant  C.  Grover  of  his  examinations  from  Pike  lake  to  Fort  Union 486 

Final  report  of  Lieutenant  C.  Grover  of  his  survey  of  the  Missouri  from  the  Great  Falls  to  the  mouth  of  Milk  river. ..  489 

Final  report  of  Lieutenant  C.  Grover  of  his  examinations  on  a  trip  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri  to  the  Dalles 

of  the  Columbia 498 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  transmitting  reports  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullau,  U.  S.  A. 

Olympia,  W.  T.,  January  3,  1855 515 

Report  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  examination  of  the  country  from  the  Bitter  Root  valley  to  the 

Flathead  lake  and  Kootenay  river.     Bitter  Root  Valley,  May  8,  1855 516 

Report  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  exploration  from  Cantonment  Stevens  to  Fort  Dalles  through  the 
passes  and  lateral  valleys  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  including  a  pass  over  the  Cueur  d'Alene  mountains.  Fort  Van 
couver,  November  12,  1854 527 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  advising  the  condition  of  the  survey,  and  transmitting  reports 

of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  U.  S.  A.,  and  Mr.  George  W.  Stevens.     Olympia,  W.  T.,  January  3,  1855 537 

Report  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullau,  U.  S.  A.,  on  a  pass  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  a  pass   through  the  Bitter 

Root  mountains.     Olympia,  W.  T.,  December  12,  1854 538 

Report  of  Mr.  George  W.  Stevens  submitting  a  plau  and  estimate  for  determining  with  accuracy  the  latitudes  and  longi 
tudes  of  the  principal  stations  on  the  route  near  the  forty-seventh  and  forty-ninth  parallels.  Olympia,  W.  T.,  De 
cember  21,  1854 540 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  transmitting  two  reports  of  Mr.  James  Doty.     Olympia,  W. 

T.,  April  20,  1855 542 

Report  of  Mr.  James  Doty  of  a  survey  from  Fort  Beuton,  near  the  Great  Fulls  of  the  Missouri,  along  the  eastern  base 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  to  latitude  49°  3D'  N.  Olympia,  W.  T.,  December  15,  1854 *543 


CONTENTS. 

Report  of  Mr.  James  Doty  of  a  reconnaissance  from  Fort  Benton  to  Cantonment  Stevens,  and  of  a  survey  from  Fort 

Benton  to  Olympia.  Olympia,  W.  T.,  January  1,1855 553 

Letter  of  Mr.  L.  Blodget  to  Captain  A.  A.  Humphreys,  transmitting  general  notes  on  the  climate  on  route  near  the 

forty-seventh  and  forty-ninth  parallels.  Washington,  D.  C.,  August  14,  1855 506 

^  General  notes  on  the  climate  on  the  route  near  the  forty-seventh  and  forty-uinth  parallels,  by  Mr.  Lorin  Blodget 566 

Meteorological  observations  made  at  Fort  Benton,  by  Mr.  James  Doty 572 

Letter  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  U.  S.  A.,  to  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens,  transmitting  meteorological  register  kept  in 

the  St.  Mary's  valley.  Olympia.  W.  T.,  December  17,  1854 585 

Meteorological  observations  made  at  Cantonment  Stevens,  St.  Mary's  valley,  by  F.  H.  Burr,  of  Lieutenant  Mullan's 

party : 586 

Summary  of  meteorological  observations  at  Fort  Pierre,  Missouri  river 599 

Summary  of  barometric  and  temperature  observations  at  Columbia  Barracks,  "Oregon,  from  July  to  December,  1653, 

and  for  four  months  of  1854 599 

Summary  of  meteorological  observations  at  Olympia,  W.  T 601 

Barometric  and  meteorological  observations  made  during  the  survey  of  a  line  from  Columbia  Barracks  to  Fort  Colville 

and  the  return,  by  Lieutenant  S.  Mowry,  U.  S.  A 602 

Table  of  altitudes  from  Columbia  Barracks  to  Fort  Okinakane 613 

Eise  and  fall  of  the  Columbia  River  at  Fort  Vancouver 614 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  A.  W.  Tinkham.  Olympia,  W.  T.,  December  12,  1853 617 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Olyropia,  W.  T.,  December  30,  1853 619 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens^to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Olympia,  W.  T.,  January  31,  1854 621 

Letter  of  Captain  G.  B.  McClellan,  corps  of  engineers,  to  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens.  Olympia,  W.  T.,  January  31,  1854.  622 

Letter  of  A.  W.  Tiukham  to  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens.  Fort  Wallah- Wallah,  January  2,  1854 625 

Letter  of  A.  W.  Tinkham  to  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens.  Olympia,  W.  T. ,  February  1 ,  1 854 629 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Olympia,  W.  T.,  February  13,  1854 631 

Letter  of  the  Secretary  of  War  to  Governor  I.I.  Stevens.  Washington,  April  1 2,  1854 632 

Letter  of  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Olympia,  W.  T.,  March  6,  1854 633 

Letter  of  Lieutenant  Mullan,  U.  S.  A.,  to  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens.  Cantonment  Stevens,  W.  T.,  January  12,  1854  ....  633 

Letter  of  Lieutenant  A.  J.  Donelson,  corps  of  engineers,  to  the  Secretary  of  War 635 

Note  in  reference  to  a  subsequent  volume 636 


PART  I. 

REPORTS    FROM  THE   FIELD 


UPPER  MISSISSIPPI, 
Steamer  Nominee,  Hay  27,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  respectfully  to  inform  the  department,  that  I  left  Washington 
city  on  the  9th  instant,  stopped  in  New  York  one  day  to  transact  business,  and  taking  the  route 
of  Lake  Erie  and  Chicago,  reached  St.  Louis  on  the  loth.  I  remained  in  St.  Louis  until  the 
departure  of  the  Fur  Company's  hoat  on  the  21st,  which  carried  up  ten  thousand  rations  to  Fort 
Union,  and  a  small  party,  consisting  of  Lieutenant  Donelson,  Lieutenant  Mullan,  Mr.  Graham, 
and  six  sappers  and  miners.  Lieutenant  Donelson  is  instructed  to  make  the  best  possible 
survey  of  the  Missouri,  and  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Union,  from  the  White  Earth 
to  the  Porcupine  rivers.  Whilst  at  St.  Louis  I  secured  the  services  of  Alexander  Culbertson, 
Esq.,  as  a  special  agent  among  the  Blackfeet  Indians.  He  has  lived  in  the  country  twenty 
years,  and  knows  by  name  every  adult  male  in  each  tribe.  He  -estimates  the  number  to  be  from 
fifteen  hundred  to  eighteen  hundred  lodges.  I  found  him  to  be  a  reliable,  steadfast,  calm  man. 
He  joins  the  main  party  at  Fort  Union,  and  accompanies  us  to  Fort  Benton.  The  Fur  Company 
make  the  trip,  400  miles,  in  twenty  days,  four  mules  drawing  1,600  pounds.  The  grasses  in 
the  Blackfeet  region  are  exceedingly  good,  the  country  is  well  watered,  and  wagons  can  be 
taken  to  the  very  base  of  the  mountains. 

The  Blackfeet  tribes  know  all  the  passes  in  the  mountains,  and  Mr.  Culbertson  assures  me 
that  we  shall  have  no  difficulty  in  securing  the  confidence  of,  and  controlling  the  Blackfeet. 
With  vigilance  and  firmness,  I  entertain  no  apprehensions  whatever. 

Dr.  John  Evans,  who  is  intrusted  with  the  geological  reconnaissance  of  Oregon,  under  the 
supervision  of  the  General  Land  Office,  for  which  Congress  has  made  a  special  appropriation, 
has  accepted  the  position  of  geologist  of  my  expedition.  He  will,  on  his  way  to  Oregon,  go 
through  the  "Mauvaises  Terres,"  exploring  the  routes  in  that  interesting  region,  connecting 
it  with  the  Missouri  by  two  lines,  leading  respectively  to  Fort  Pierre  and  Fort  Union,  and 
making  for  my  exploration  collections  of  the  highest  value  to  geological  science.  The  topo 
graphical  information  which  he  will  collect  will  be  a  great  assistance  in  enabling  me  to  deter 
mine  the  best  route  for  my  return  party.  Dr.  Evans  will  place  at  the  disposal  of  the  expedi 
tion  all  his  topographical  notes  and  barometrical  observations  crossing  the  mountains,  and  thus, 
at  very  small  expense,  the  expedition  will  derive  from  his  labors  great  aid  in  both  its  direct  and 
incidental  objects. 

I  shall  reach  St.  Paul's  this  evening,  where  I  expect  to  find  all  the  arrangements  well  ad 
vanced  to  commence  the  exploration,  and  from  which  place  I  hope  to  start,  at  the  furthest,  by 
the  first  of  June.  I  will  communicate  again  with  the  department  as  I  leave  the  settlements, 
and  will  at  the  same  time  enclose  a  statement  of  expenditures  up  to  that  point. 

I  enclose,  herewith,  printed  copies  of  the  instructions  given  in  each  branch  of  the  survey. 
As  the  party  was  quite  numerous,  and  each  member  receives  copies  of  them,  in  addition  to 


2  OBJECT    OF    THE    EXPLORATION. 

specific  instructions,  I  had  them  all  printed,  except  the  paper  called  "  General  Organization  of 
the  Expedition,"  as  it  was  more  economical  than  to  be  subjected  to  clerk  hire  for  so  great  a 
labor. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  truly,  your  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 
Hon.  JEFFERSOX  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPEDITION. 

The  special  object  of  the  exploration  is  the  determination  of  a  railroad  route  from  the  head 
waters  of  the  Mississippi  river  to  Puget  sound.  In  consequence  of  the  meagreness  of  the  in 
formation  in  reference  to  the  country  to  be  gone  over,  particularly  in  the  Rocky  and  Cascade 
mountains,  a  general  topographical  survey  must  be  had  of  these  mountains  between  the  46th 
and  49th  parallels,  and  of  most  of  the  intervening  country,  in  order  to  determine  the  general 
course  of  the  railroad  and  furnish  the  data  to  guide  the  civil  engineers  in  determining  the 
route.  The  operations  involved  are  therefore  as  follows: 

1.  A  general  reconnaissance  of  the  country. — This  reconnaissance  will  embrace  the  general 
features  of  the  country,  as  mountain  ranges  and  passes,  windings  of  rivers  and  streams,  their 
dividing  ridges,  prairies,  and  everything  which  shall  be  necessary  in  the  construction  of  a 
general  map   of  the  country  passed  over.      The  result  of  this   examination,  done  by  recon 
noitring  corps  assigned  to  the  special  duty,  will  be  to  determine  the  most  advantageous  route  to 
be  pursued  for  the  railroad,  and  to  direct  the  movements  of  the  party  intrusted  with  locating 
it.     It  will  be  an  important  object  in  the  general  reconnaissance  to  determine,  with  all  possible 
accuracy,  the  important  features  of  the  country,  especially  those  which  have  a  bearing  upon  the 
location  and  construction  of  the  proposed  railroad.     Of  this  class  are  the  important  points  of 
the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers,  as  the  heads  of  steamboat  and  boat  navigation ;  the  debouches 
of  the  mountain  passes,  both  of  the  Cascade  and  Rocky  mountain  ranges ;  and  of  such  import 
ant  points  the  latitude  and  longitude  should  be  determined,  either  by  the  sextant  and  transit, 
or  by  the  sextant  and  chronometer,  as  may  be  practicable.     The  observations  of  important 
objects  by  compass  ranges  should  be  referred  either  to  those  points  whose  geographical  positions 
have  been  determined,  or  to  the  base  line  of  the  route. 

Parties  intrusted  with  reconnaissances  and  surveys  will  make  topographical  sketches  of  the 
country  on  the  several  routes  pursued  by  them,  and  will,  as  far  as  practicable,  be  supplied  with 
the  necessary  instruments  for  working  with  facility.  In  the  lack  of  an  odometer  for  measure 
ment,  such  means  must  be  made  use  of  as  are  generally  resorted  to  in  similar  cases,  as  measure 
ment  by  the  pace  of  a  horse  or  a  man,  &c. 

2.  The  survey  and  location  of  the  railroad. — This  will  be  along  the  route  resulting  from  the 
labors  of  the  reconnoitring  corps,  and  will  embrace  all  the  facts  bearing  upon  the  construction 
of  the  road ;  particular  regard  being  had  by  the  reconnoitring  corps,  and  tke  corps  intrusted 
with  the  location  of  the  road,  to  the  natural  facilities  for  the  transportation  of  iron,  supplies, 
&c.,  which  will  be  required  for  the  road.     Objects  observed  will  be  referred  to  the  known  points 
of  the  base  line  of  the  route,  referred  to  hereafter.     The  route  will  be  run  by  compass  courses 
day  by  day,  and  measured  by  an  odometer,  and  the  results  thus  obtained,  checked  by  the  daily 
determination  of  latitude  and  longitude,  will  form  the  base  line,  to  which  will  be  referred  all 
objects  observed  in  the  survey. 

A  general  profile  of  the  route  will  be  determined  by  means  of  barometrical  measurements. 
The  altitudes  of  the  halting  places  at  night  and  noon,  the  tops  of  ridges  and  bottoms  of  valleys, 
and,  so  far  as  possible,  the  altitudes  for  the  construction  of  a  continuous  profile,  in  connexion 


GENERAL    ORGANIZATION    OF    THE    EXPEDITION.  3 

with  the  measurements  hy  the  odometer,  will  be  obtained.  In  the  crossing  of  rivers,  the  height 
of  the  banks  must  be  noted ;  the  depth  of  the  water,  the  apparent  highest  water,  the  nature  of 
the  bottom  on  which  the  foundation  for  the  abutments  and  piers  must  rest,  the  width  between 
the  banks,  and  all  information  determining  the  means  and  cost  for  carrying  a  road  over  the 
stream,  should  be  obtained  as  fully  as  practicable.  So,  in  smaller  crossings  of  gullies  and  small 
streams,  similar  facts  in  reference  to  culverts  should  be  obtained.  In  general,  everything  in 
the  character  of  the  country  passed  over  affecting  the  construction  of  a  railroad  will  be  noted, 
the  estimated  or  determined  grades,  the  nature  of  the  excavation,  facilities  for  obtaining  stone, 
timber,  and  all  building  materials,  &c.,  &c. 

The  positions  of  all  objects  noted  on  the  route  will  be  determined  either  directly  by  the 
odometer  and  compass,  referred  to  the  line  of  the  route  by  compass  bearing  and  estimated  dis 
tance  from  one  point,  or  simply  sketched  in,  according  to  the  importance  of  the  object. 

3.  The  decisive  points  which  must  determine  the  location  of  the  road  are  the  mountain 
passes  of  the  Cascade  and  Rocky  mountain  ranges ;  and  it  may  occur  that  the  location  of  the 
road  between  the  two  ranges,  and  for  a  long  distance  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  must  be  sus 
pended  until  these  passes  be  examined  and  selected ;  and  much  of  the  general  reconnaissance 
must  be  made  after  the  selection  of  these  mountain  passes,  which  are  the  controlling  points  of 
the  survey. 

It  is  proposed  to  construct  the  following  maps,  embodying  the  geographical  results  of  the 
exploration  ;  and  the  efforts  of  reconnoitring  and  surveying  parties  will  be  especially  directed 
to  obtaining  the  best  data  for  the  construction  of  these  maps : 

A  general  map,  scale  34^^75-,  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Pacific 
ocean,  and  from  the  42d  to  the  56th  parallel. 

A  map  in  two  sheets,  scale  75^77^5  of  Washington  Territory,  and  thence  eastward  to  the 
headwaters  of  the  Mississippi. 

A  map,  scale  ^^7^)  Cascade  range,  Rocky  mountains,  and  other  critical  points  of  the  route. 

Mountain  passes,  scale 

Working  sketches,  scale 

The  field-books  are  constructed  so  as  to  be  convenient  for  reduction  to  the  scale  of  the  several 
maps  above.  As  ruled,  in  small  squares  of  about  §  inch  side,  each  side  represents  ^  of  a  statute 
mile,  scale  TulirTrj  an(^  ^  *s  designed  that  this  scale  should  be  generally  used  in  sketching. 
Where  necessary,  however,  to  depart  from  it,  the  sketches  should  be  of  a  scale  S^TF?  TTTTfTnr> 
strtWirj  &c.,  the  sides  of  the  squares  respectively  representing  ^j,  T^,  ~,  statute  mile,  as  shall  be 
found  necessary,  the  scale  by  which  the  sketch  is  made  being  marked  on  the  page  containing  it. 
The  direction  of  the  magnetic  meridian  of  the  sketch  (running  longitudinally  down  the  page, 
or  taking  the  direction  of  the  other  sides  of  the  square,  as  shall  be  most  convenient  at  different 
times)  will  also  be  noted  on  each  page,  and  the  magnetic  variations  recorded  in  the  field-book 
with  each  day's  work. 

The  work  of  the  day  will  be  made  up  in  camp  at  night  with  ink,  and  will  be  transferred  by 
the  draughtsman  to  the  general  map,  scale 


GENERAL  ORGANIZATION  OF  THE   EXPEDITION. 

1.  The  expedition  is  in  charge  of  Isaac  I.  Stevens,  governor  of  the  Territory  of  Washington. 

2.  There  will  be  two  main  parties  in  prosecuting  the  work.     One  party,  under  the  immediate 
direction  of  Governor  Stevens,  will  proceed  from  the  Mississippi  river,  and  surveying  rapidly 
the  intermediate  country,  will  reach  as  early  as  practicable  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  examine 
all  the  passes  to  ascertain  the  most  practicable  one.     The  second  party,  under  the  command  of 
Brevet  Captain  George  B.  McClellan,  will  organize  at  Puget  sound,  or  on  the  Columbia,  and 
operate  for  a  similar  purpose  in  the  Cascade  range  of  mountains,     The  parties  will  operate  in 


4  GENERAL    ORGANIZATION    OF    THE    EXPEDITION. 

the  mountains  until  they  are  thoroughly  explored,  or  till  driven  away  by  the  snow,  when  they 
will  be  applied,  with  probably  a  somewhat  reduced  organization,  to  the  survey  of  the  inter 
mediate  region. 

To  insure  unity  in  the  entire  operation,  Governor  Stevens,  as  soon  as  the  eastern  party  has 
been  put  to  work  on  the  Rocky  mountains,  will  advance  rapidly  with  a  small  reconnoitring 
force  to  meet  Captain  McClellan  and  arrange  the  entire  operations. 

For  more  full  information  as  to  the  organization  of  the  expedition  and  character  of  the  survey, 
see  the  printed  instructions  of  the  Secretary  of  War. 

3.  All  officers  detailed  on  the  survey  are  on  topographical  duty,  and  will  in  the  field  receive 
one  dollar  per  day. 

4.  Lieutenant  Rufus  Saxton,  jr.,  is  the  acting  assistant  quartermaster  and  commissary  of  the 
expedition.     His  most  important  duty  as  such  is,  as  early  as  practicable  to  cross  the  isthmus, 
and  establish  a  depot  of  provisions  at  the  Flathead  village  of  St.  Mary's,  just  west  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  and  then  crossing  the  mountains  by  the  Blackfoot  trail,  meet  the  eastern  party  at 
Fort  Benton,  at  the  sources  of  the  Missouri  river. 

5.  Till  he  joins  the  main  party,  Lieutenant  Cuvier  Grover  will  act  as  commissary  and  quarter 
master  for  the  eastern  party. 

6.  Under  the  instructions  of  the  Secretary  of  War,  the  administrative  branches  of  the  service 
will  bear  all  the  expenses  of  the  army  portion  of  the  expedition.     The  appropriation  for  the 
survey  will  be  chargeable  with  the  pay,  subsistence  and  transportation  of  the  civilians  employed 
as  a  scientific  corps,  and  their  assistants,  with  instruments  and  collections. 

7.  Each  officer  and  scientific  man  of  the  expedition  will  keep  a  daily  journal,  noting  every 
thing  worthy  of  observation  of  a  general  character.     These  journals  will  be  deemed  a  part  of 
the  results  of  the  expedition,  will  be  turned  over  as  a  part  of  its  archives,  and  will  be  made  use 
of  in  preparing  the  report.     This  is  not  intended  to  preclude  copies  being  taken  and  published 
by  the  writer,  after  the  publication  of  the  report  and  proceedings  of  the  expedition. 

8.  Whilst  every  effort  will  be  made  to  render  the  expedition  Jn  all  its  parts  effective,  the  most 
rigid  economy  is  enjoined.     Transportation  is  not  only  expensive  but  cumbersome.     Personal 
baggage  must  be  reduced  to  the  smallest  practicable  amount.     Attendants  and  animals  to  be 
kept  at  a  minimum.     Great  care  must  be  taken  in  matters  of  account,  particularly  in  the  divi 
sion  of  the  expenses  between  the  survey  and  administrative  branches  of  the  services. 

9.  The  clerk  and  disbursing  agent  is  Isaac  F.  Osgood.     He  will  keep  an  account  of  books 
and  instruments,  taking  receipts  therefor  whenever  practicable.     They  will  be  turned  over  to 
him  when  not  wanted  for  further  use. 

10.  Professor  Spencer  F.  Baird  is  the  naturalist  of  the  expedition.     The  naturalists  and  col 
lectors,  for  full  information  in  reference  to  their  duties,  are  referred  to  his  printed  notes  prepared 
expressly  for  this  expedition,  and  his  printed  directions  prepared  for  the  Smithsonian  Institu 
tion.     The  collections  will  all  be  sent  to  him  in  Washington  for  the  preparation  of  that  portion 
of  the  report. 

11.  Dr.  John  Evans  is  the  geologist  of  the  expedition;  and  the  geologists  and  collectors  are 
referred  to  his  printed  paper  for  valuable  suggestions  in  reference  to  that  interesting  and  almost 
unexplored  region  in  which  the  expedition  will  operate. 

12.  For  instructions  in  reference  to  meteorological  matters,  see  printed  instructions. 

13.  For  full  information   and  instructions  in  reference  to  the  topographical  and  railway 
survey,  reference  will  be  had  to  the  printed  instructions. 

14.  For  magnetic  and  astronomical  instructions,  reference  will  be  had  to  the  written  paper 
of  the  instructions. 

15.  Mr.  Stanley  is  appointed  the  artist  of  the  expedition.     For  valuable  suggestions  in  con 
nexion  with  this  and  other  branches  of  the  work,  see  a  written  paper  prepared  by  him,  which 
will  serve  as  a  basis  of  instructions. 

16.  Whilst  great  care  will  be  taken  to  assign  each  man  to  his  special  and  appropriate  duty, 


INSTRUCTIONS   FOR    METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS.  5 

all  are  desired  to  inform  themselves  in  reference  to  the  general  objects  and  results  of  the  expe 
dition,  and  do  all  they  can  to  forward  the  several  special  operations. 

This  is  the  more  important,  as  parties  will  be  frequently  subdivided,  and  several  duties  thus 
be,  of  necessity,  thrown  upon  the  same  individual. 

ST.  Louis,  May  21,  1853. 

MY  DEAR  SIR:  If  it  would  be  a  possible  thing  for  you  to  prepare  a  brief  popular  notice  of  the 
"Mauvaises  Terres"  to  go  into  my  preliminary  report,  I  shall  be  glad.  That  report  I  mean  to 
send  from  Puget  sound,  about  the  15th  of  December,  and  your  notes  I  should  want  a  month 
earlier. 

I  hope  the  artist  will  prove  equal  to  his  duties,  and  that  with  his  assistance  you  will  be  able 
not  only  to  make  sketches  of  the  bad  lands,  but  a  tolerable  survey,  which  can  be  incorporated 
into  our  general  map.  You  will  easily  connect  it  with  the  Missouri  river  by  your  two  lines  to 
Fort  Pierre  and  Fort  Union. 

At  Fort  Union,  should  I  leave  before  your  arrival,  I  will  leave  word  as  to  the  two  routes  I 
shall  take,  with  the  probable  time  of  being  at  Fort  Benton. 

I  hope  I  shall  not  fail  to  meet  you  before  you  cross  the  mountains. 

Truly  yours, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 

Cannot  you,  in  the  form  of  a  journal,  have  a  notice  which  will  answer  as  a  preliminary  notice. 
And  I  would  suggest  that  if,  at  Fort  Benton,  you  could  let  me  have  your  journal,  with  all  your 
sketches  and  topography,  the  artist  and  draughtsman  of  the  expedition  could  at  once  prepare 
them,  with  other  matter,  for  publication. 

Mr.  JOHN  EVANS,  Geologist,  St.  Louis. 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 
PROGRAMME. 

1.  Permanent  posts  for  one  year,  to  be  kept  up  for  a  longer  period  if  additional  appropria 
tions  are  made. 

2.  Parties  in  the  field  to  be  continued  six  months ;  the  permanent  posts  a  result  of  their  labor. 

3.  At  permanent  posts  will  be  barometrical  and  hygrometrical  observations;  also,  quantities 
of  rain  and  snow  will  be  carefully  observed ;  also,  observations  as  to  wind  and  storms. 

4.  Parties  in -the  field  will  all  observe  for  temperature,  wind,  and  storms.     Some  four  main 
parties  will  use  the  barometer,  and,  if  practicable,  make  observations  as  to  rain  and  moisture. 
Aneroids  to  be  used  for  detailed  work. 

NOTE. — The  aurora  borealis,  temperature  of  hot  springs,  &c.,  will  be  carefully  observed,  both 
at  posts  and  by  field  parties. 

5.  Permanent  posts. — Four   main   posts:    1,   Puget  sound;    2,   Columbia  barracks;    3,  the 
Flathead  village  of  St.  Mary's;  4,  Fort  Benton;  and  three  posts  of  second  order:   5,  Fort 
Colville  or  Okinakane;  6,  Fort  Wallah-wallah;  7,  the  British  trading  post  at  the  debouche  of 
the  Marias  Pass;    and  five  winter  posts:    8,  in  the  Blackfoot  trail;  9,  in  the  Marias  Pass; 
10,  in  the  intermediate  pass;  11,  12,  two  passes  in  the  Cascade  range. 

NOTE. — The  above  programme  of  posts  is  designed  to  indicate  what  it  is  desirable  to  accom 
plish.     Circumstances  may  require  changes  in  it  and  a  reduction  of  the  scale. 

INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

NOTE. — These  instructions  have  been  drawn  up  by  Lorin  Blodget,  Esq.,  under  the  direction 
of  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 


6  INSTRUCTIONS   FOR   METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 

EN  ROUTE  OBSERVATIONS. 

Observe  all  the  instruments  at  every  halt  of  the  party. 

Observe  the  barometer  and  thermometer  at  every  point  of  considerable  elevation  or  depres 
sion,  and  at.  every  point  of  abrupt  change  of  climate  in  passing  a  mountain  range. 

Observe  at^ome  certain  hour,  whenever  possible,  and  not  at  points,  between  hours.  Take 
the  temperature  of  large  springs  and  streams  en  route,  and  of  the  earth,  when  practicable,  at 
one  foot  below  the  service.  Measure  every  fall  of  rain  during  a  halt,  whether  partial  or  com 
plete,  as  in  starting  or  halting  during  rain. 

Enter  all  observations  precisely  as  taken,  with  proper  note  of  locality,  circumstances,  &c. 

Special  parties  from  a  camp  to  determine  heights  must  arrange  hours  for  simultaneous  baro 
metric  observations,  and  compute  heights  by  the  compared  observations. 

Measure  the  amounts  of  rain,  at  different  heights,  when  it  may  be  done  in  surveys. 

CAMP  OBSERVATIONS. 

Observe  all  instruments  in  camp  hourly,  when  the  force  is  sufficient ;  H-Jiourly,  at  the  even 
hours,  with  less  force;  three  times  at  T  a.  m.,  2  p.  m.,  and  9  p.  m.,  with  the  least  camp  force. 

Observe  the  barometer  simultaneously  with  any  party  leaving  camp,  or  known  to  be  taking 
elevations  near. 

Camp  and  field  observations  to  be  made  in  the  blank-book  forms.  Refer  to  the  directions  on 
the  monthly  blanks. 

POST  OBSERVATIONS. 

Observe  all  instruments  at  7  a.  m.,  2  p.  m.,  and  9  p.  m.  If  a  few  more  can  be  taken,  observe 
at  sunrise,  9  a.  m.,  and  6  p.  m.  If  sufficient  force  can  be  applied,  give  night  observations  at 
12  p.  m.,  2  a.  m.,  and  4  a.  m.,  and  hourly  observations  during  the  day. 

Use  the  blank  books  for  hourly  observations,  and  the  sheet  forms  for  the  less  numbers  and 
the  monthly  results. 

Observe  extremes  of  temperature  and  of  barometer  whenever  they  occur  differing  materially 
from  the  regular  observations. 

INSTRUMENTS. 

Barometers. — Use  the  open  cistern  or  Alexander's  barometer  for  a  standard;  the  syphon  and 
"Wurdemann's  for  common  field-work ;  and  the  aneroid  for  difficult  surveys  only,  and  where  great 
accuracy  is  not  required.  Compare  all  the  others  used  with  the  standard,  before  leaving  a  post 
and  on  the  return  to  the  same. 

Adjust  the  float  or  tangent  point  of  the  open-cistern  barometer  carefully  before  each  observa 
tion. 

Fill  the  tube  perfectly  on  taking  the  instrument  down,  by  screwing  up  the  bottom  of  the 
sack,  or  by  inclining  the  tube  in  the  Alexander's  barometer.  The  instrument  remains  perfect 
when  a  small  vacuum  gives  a  clear  concussion  in  throwing  the  mercury  to  the  end  of  the  tube. 

Wurdemann's  steel  barometer  should  not  be  completely  filled  after  an  observation;  leave  a 
globule  of  mercury,  as  large  as  a  rifle-ball,  in  the  short  tube,  to  permit  the  expansion  of  the 
forcing  it  through  the  joints  of  the  tube  in  the  changes  of  temperature.  A  slight  shock  of  the 
column  should  be  felt  on  shaking  the  tube. 

Adjust  the  aneroid  barometer  to  the  mercurial  before  each  separate  use  of  the  aneroid,  (by 
the  screw  at  the  back.)  This  form  of  barometer  cannot  be  used  for  variations  greater  than  one 
inch,  or  for  a  time  beyond  one  day,  without  re-adjustment. 

Suspend  all  barometers  vertically,  for  observation,  and  read  the  verniers  from  the  top  or  apex 
of  the  convex  surface  of  the  column  of  mercury. 

All  barometers,  except  the  aneroid,  must  be  carried  by  a  man,  and  cannot  be  packed  safely. 


MEMORANDA   IN    RELATION    TO    FIELD    SKETCHES.  7 

Thermometer. — Take  the  air  temperature  in  the  shade,  and  where  the  air  circulates  freely. 
Suspend  the  thermometer,  and  leave  it  a  sufficient  time  for  the  purpose. 

Wet-bulb  thermometer,  or  hygrometer. — Coat  the  bulb  with  very  thin  cotton  or  linen.  If  it  is 
kept  constantly  wet,  the  observation  may  be  instantly  made ;  if  not,  wait  five  or  ten  minutes 
after  wetting  it.  If  the  air  is  very  still,  fan  it,  or  swing  it  until  it  falls  as  low  as  it  will.  Eight 
degrees  of  difference  shows  a  dry  atmosphere ;  twelve  degrees,  very  dry ;  no  difference  is  com 
plete  saturation. 

Rain  gauge. — Place  the  gauge  in  an  open  space,  and  sink  it  in  the  earth  nearly  to  the  level 
of  the  surface  when  practicable,  at  the  beginning  of  every  rain,  and  measure  the  amount  when 
it  ceases. 

One  inch  on  the  surface  will  measure  four  in  the  small  part  of  the  gauge.  A  foot-rule  will 
give  the  amount,  one  inch  deep  being  one-fourth  or  .25  on  the  surface;  one-tenth  of  an  inch 
being  (.025)  twenty-five  thousandths.  The  small  part  of  the  gauge  full  gives  three  inches;  the 
whole  gauge/owr  and  T\  inches.  (The  gauge  is  6  inches  across  the  top,  3  inches  in  the  tube; 
the  tube  is  12  inches  high ;  the  whole  15  inches  high;  the  two  inner  capacities  as  one  to  four.) 

Measure  snow  as  snow,  and  melted  as  water.  Soft  snow  will  measure  in  the  gauge ;  dry  snow 
should  be  caught  in  a  box;  melting  as  many  superficial  inches  as  the  gauge  contains. 

The  general  purpose  of  these  observations  should  be  kept  in  view  by  each  observer  as  a  guide 
beyond  specific  directions.     That  purpose  is  to  make  the  best  possible  determination  of  heights 
and  of  the  profile  of  the  country;  secondly,  to  get  the  utmost  possible  amount  of  definite  know 
ledge  relative  to  its  climate. 

The  mean  and  extreme  temperature  of  each  particular  district  for  each  month  of  the  year  ; 
the  amount  of  rain  and  snow,  and  sum  of  rain  and  melted  snow,  for  each  month  and  each  dis 
trict  ;  the  contrast  afforded  in  different  districts  and  by  the  different  mountain  ranges  ;  the 
comparison  of  the  Pacific  climates  with  those  of  the  mountain  valleys  and  the  plains,  and  the 
comparison  of  both  with  those  of  the  eastern  United  States. 

The  determination  of  every  fact  which  may  bear  upon  its  topography  ;  upon  engineering  in 
every  district ;  upon  adaptation  to  settlement  and  cultivation  ;  and  upon  its  general  salubrity. 


MEMORANDA  IN  RELATION  TO  SKETCHES  IN  NATURAL  HISTORY,  GEOLOGY,  BOTANY,  AND  TO  VIEWS 

OF  SCENERY  AND  NATURAL  OBJECTS. 

BY   J.    M.    STANLEY,    ARTIST   OF   THE   EXPEDITION. 

1.  As  a  general  rule,  all  that  is  necessary  in  regard  to  the  delineation  of  animals,  birds, 
and  reptiles,  while  on  a  journey,  will  be  to  make  sketches  of  their  attitudes  and  outlines,  with 
out  going  into  any  minute  detail.  This  is  less  necessary  for  birds  than  for  other  mentioned 
reptiles,  as  frogs,  toads,  and  salamanders,  which  ought  always  to  be  sketched  while  alive. 
Details  can  always  best  be  supplied  in  the  office.  Neither  is  it  necessary  to  make  colored 
sketches,  excepting  of  such  species  as  are  likely  to  fade  after  preservation.  Birds,  quadrupeds, 
insects,  and  shells  will  usually  retain  their  color  sufficiently.  Keptiles,  fishes,  Crustacea,  and 
soft  animals  generally,  and  nearly  all  alcoholic  specimens,  fade  more  or  less,  and  should 
have  sketches  of  color  made  while  alive,  or  immediately  after  death.  These  can  be  made  on  the 
outlines  of  the  natural  attitude,  but  no  care  need  be  bestowed  in  details  of  drawings,  as  these 
will  be  made  anew.  Sometimes  it  will  be  sufficient  to  write  on  the  sketch  of  outline  the  names 
of  colors  corresponding  to  different  areas  of  the  body. 

Similar  sketches  of  colors  may  be  made  for  flowers  of  evanescent  tints.  Sketches  of  entire 
trees  of  the  different  species  will  be  highly  interesting,  as  communicating  information  otherwise 
indescribable. 

Fossils,  of  course,  need  not  be  drawn,  except  when  of  such  size  as  to  prevent  their  being 


8  INSTRUCTIONS    FOR    MAGNETIC   OBSERVATIONS. 

brought  along.  Sketches  of  geological  formations,  rock  exposures,  &c.,  may  frequently  be 
made  to  great  advantage. 

When  possible,  the  subject  of  the  sketch  should  always  be  brought  along,  and  a  corresponding 
number  made  to  indicate  the  relation  of  the  two. 

2.  Sketches  of  Indians  should  be  made  and  colored  from  life,  with  care  to  fidelity  in  com 
plexion  as  well  as  feature. 

In  their  games  and  ceremonies,  it  is  only  necessary  to  give  their  characteristic  attitudes,  with 
drawings  of  the  implements  and  weapons  used,  and  notes  in  detail  of  each  ceremony  represented. 
It  is  desirable  that  drawings  of  their  lodges,  with  their  historical  devices,  carving,  &c.,  be  made 
with  care. 


INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  MAGNETIC  OBSERVATIONS. 

BY  J.  E.  HILGARD,  ASSISTANT  U.  S.  COAST  SURVEY. 

A. — Observations  with  azimuth  compass. 

These  observations  will  be  made  by  reading  the  magnetic  azimuth  of  the  sun,  near  rising  or 
setting,  and  noting  the  time.  An  observation  should  be  taken  on  each  limb  of  the  sun,  and  the 
mean  used.  The  error  of  the  chronometer  must  be  known  by  a  suitable  observation  for  time. 
The  sun's  true  azimuth  and  resulting  magnetic  declination  will  be  computed  according  to  the 
printed  form. 

B. — Observations  ivith  the  magnetometer  and  dip  circle. 

1.  Observations  of  dip,  declination,  and  relative  horizontal  intensity  will  be  made  daily,  if 
practicable. 

2.  One  set  of  observations  of  dip,  without  reversal  of  poles,  will  be  made  with  each  needle 
whenever  time  permits,  and  will  be  recorded  in  the  printed  form.     At  convenient  stations,  at 
intervals  of  four  or  five  weeks,  the  connection  depending  on  the  reversal  of  poles  will  be  deter 
mined  by  four  sets  of  observations  with  reversal,  with  each  needle.     The  dip  circle  may  be 
placed  in  the  magnetic  meridian  by  means  of  the  magnetic  bearing  of  some  object,  determined 
by  the  azimuth  compass. 

3.  Observations  of  declinations  will  be  made  and  computed  according  to  the  form  prepared 
for  that  purpose.     The  zero  of  the  collimator  magnet  will  be  determined  once  a  week  by  inversals. 
The  observation  of  true  azimuth  may  be  made  on  the  sun,,  or  any  star  near  rising  or  setting. 

4.  The  observations  of  relative  horizontal  intensity  will  be  made  by  vibrating  one  or  both  of 
the  larger  magnets  in  the  vibration  apparatus,  and  observing  the  time  of  200  vibrations. 

The  largest  arc  of  vibration  should  not  exceed  2°;  observations  of  deflection,  for  attaining 
the  magnetic  moment  of  the  vibrating  magnets,  will  be  made  once  a  month,  in  connexion  with 
the  observations  of  vibration  by  deflecting  one  of  the  shorter  magnets  with  the  magnets  used  in 
vibrating  ;  the  observations  being  made  and  recorded  strictly  according  to  the  printed  form. 
These  sets  of  deflections  should  be  observed  with  each  magnet,  at  distances  no  less  than  1.5  feet 
from  the  deflected  magnet. 

5.  The  observations  of  horizontal  intensity  cannot  be  reduced  to  absolute  measure,  until  the 
moments  of  inertia  of  the  vibrating  magnets,  (with  their  stirrups  and  suspension,)  designated 
by  K  in  the  formula,  are  determined.     This  is  done  by  vibrating  them  loaded  with  a  ring,  the 
moment  of  inertia  of  which  K  is  known  by  its  dimension  and  weight.     Both  inertia  rings-  should 
be  used  for  this  purpose,  and  at  least  five  series  of  vibrations,  with  and  without  rings,  should 
be  observed  with  each  magnet. 

These  observations,  as  well  as  those  for  the  temperature,  co-efficient  q,  may  be  made  during 
the  ensuing  winter.  They  may  be  made  in  a  room,  and  are  not  influenced  by  local  attraction. 


MEMORANDA    IN    REFERENCE    TO    THE    NATURAL    HISTORY   OPERATIONS. 

6.  Great  care  will  be  observed  to  place  the  magnets  in  their  proper  positions  in  the  cases, 
and  not  to  touch  them  with  iron  or  steel.  The  observations  must  be  made  at  a  distance  of  at 
least  800  paces  from  the  wagons,  to  avoid  the  influence  of  the  iron  tires.  Observers  will  care 
fully  divest  their  clothing:  of  all  substances  having  magnetic  attraction. 


MEMORANDA  IN  REFERENCE  TO  THE  NATURAL  HISTORY  OPERATION'S. 

PREPARED  BY  S.  F.  BAIRD,  UNDER  THE  DIRECTION  OF  THE  SMITHSONIAN  INSTITUTION. 

The  general  principles  to  be  observed  in  making  collections  of  natural  history  in  a  new 
country,  or  one  previously  unexplored,  is  to  collect  everything  which  may  present  itself,  from 
time  to  time,  subject  to  the  convenience  or  practicability  of  transportation.  The  number  of 
specimens  to  be  secured  will,  of  course,  depend  upon  the  dimensions,  and  the  variety  of  form  or 
condition  caused  by  the  different  features  of  age,  sex,  or  season. 

Where  a  small  part  only  of  the  specimens  collected  can  ^e  taken  along,  such  species  should 
be  selected  as  are  least  likely  to  be  procured  in  other  localities  or  at  other  opportunities.  Among 
these  may  be  mentioned  the  reptiles,  fishes,  soft  insects,  &c. ;  in  fact,  all  such  as  require  alcohol 
for  their  preservation.  Dried  specimens,  as  skins,  can  be  procured  with  less  difficulty,  and  are 
likely  to  be  brought  in  by  persons  not  specially  interested  in  scientific  pursuits. 

The  description  of  various  processes,,  to  be  employed  in  the  collection  and  preservation  of  speci 
mens  of  different  kinds,  will  be  found  detailed  at  sufficient  length  in  the  "Directions"  published 
by  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  and  in  the  Admiralty  Manual  of  Scientific  Enquiry. 

In  collecting  specimens  of  any  kind,  it  will  be  important  to  fix,  with  the  utmost  precision, 
the  localities  where  found.  This  is  especially  desirable  in  reference  to  the  fishes,  which  occupy 
a  very  intimate  relation  to  the  waters  in  which  they  live. 

The  smaller  quadrupeds,  of  the  size  of  a  mouse,  may  be  preserved  entire  in  alcohol.  Larger 
kinds  should  be  skinned,  and  the  skins  thrown  into  alcohol,  or  coated  inside  with  arsenic  and  dried. 
The  latter  course  may  be  indicated  for  species  larger  than  a  prairie  dog  or  hare.  The  skulls 
of  the  small  kinds  may  be  left  in  the  skins;  those  of  the  larger  should  be  removed,  taking  care 
to  attach  some  common  mark  by  which  they  may  be  again  brought  together.  Large  animals, 
of  the  size  of  a  wolf  and  above,  may,  for  greater  convenience,  be  skinned  after  the  method  pur 
sued  by  butchers,  by  skinning  the  legs  down  to  the  toes,  and  cutting  off  at  that  point.  The 
skins  need  not  be  sewed  up,  as  is  directed  for  the  smaller  kinds,  but  rolled  up  into  bales,  after 
applying  an  abundance  of  arsenic  and  drying. 

It  will  be  very  important  to  procure  the  skeletons,  and,  at  all  events,  the  skulls,  of  all  the 
species  of  animals,  in  sufficient  numbers  to  include  all  the  variations  of  age  and  sex.  These 
may  be  roughly  prepared  by  cutting  off  the  flesh  and  drying  in  the  sun. 

As  the  expedition  will  pass  through  the  breeding-ground  of  many  species  of  birds  whose  nidi- 
fication  and  eggs  are  not  known,  attention  should  be  paid  to  securing  abundant  specimens  of 
the  nests  and  eggs.  As  far  as  possible  the  skin  of  the  bird  to  which  each  set  of  eggs  may  belong 
should  be  secured,  and  have  a  mark  attached  common  to  it  and  the  egg. 

The  larger  snakes  should  be  skinned,  as  indicated  in  the  "Directions,"  as  thereby  they 
will  occupy  much  less  space  than  otherwise.  The  smaller  specimens  preserve  entire,  together 
with  the  lizards,  salamanders,  and  small  frogs.  All  of  these  that  can  be  caught  should  be 
secured  and  preserved. 

The  head,  legs,  with  feet,  the  tail,  in  fact  the  entire  skin  of  turtles,  may  be  preserved  in 
alcohol ;  the  soft  parts  then  extracted  from  the  shell,  which  is  then  to  be  washed  and  dried. 

Every  stream,  and,  indeed,  many  localities  in  each  stream,  when  passable,  should  be  explored 
for  fishes,  which  are  to  be  preserved  as  directed  in  the  pamphlet.     For  these,  as  well  as  the 
other  alcoholic  collections,  the  lino  bags  will  be  indispensable. 
2/ 


10  MEMORANDA    IN    REFERENCE    TO   THE    NATURAL    HISTORY   OPERATIONS. 

All  the  alcohol  used  should  he  supplied  with  tartar  emetic.  This,  besides  adding  to  its  pre 
servative  powers,  will  remove  any  temptation  to  drinking  it  on  the  part  of  unscrupulous  per 
sons. 

Insects  can,  with  the  exception  of  lepideptera,  be  readily  preserved  in  alcohol  ;  crabs  and 
small  shells  may  likewise  be  treated  in  the  same  manner. 

The  specimens  from  each  locality  should  be -kept  entirely  separate.  This  can  readily  be  clone 
by  means  of  the  lino  bags.  The  locality  of  the  specimens  may  be  marked  with  a  red  or  black 
pencil  on  the  outside,,  or  written  with  ink  on  a  piece  of  parchment  and  dropped  inside.  The 
ink  should  be  perfectly  dry  before  being  wetted.  Larger  specimens  may  have  the  parchment 
label  tied  to  some  part  without  enclosure  in  the  bags. 

As  the  instructions  contained  in  the  "Directions"  are  not  sufficiently  minute  in  regard  to 
plants,  it  will  be  necessary  to  go  here  into  some  detail.  The  portfolios  provided  are  intended 
to  receive  the  plants  as  collected.  About  forty  or  fifty  sheets  of  the  paper  should  be  put  into 
the  portfolio  on  starting  out  on  an  excursion.  Put  the  specimens  of  each  species  in  a  separate 
sheet  as  fast  as  gathered  from  the  plant,  taking  a  fresh  sheet  for  each  additional  species.  On 
returning  to  camp,  place  these  sheets  (without  changing  or  distributing  the  plants)  between  the 
brown  drying-papers  in  the  press,  and  draw  the  straps  tight  enough  to  produce  the  requisite 
pressure.  The  next  day  the  driers  may  be  changed,  and  those  previously  used  laid  in  the  sun 
to  dry.  This  to  be  continued  until  the  plants  are  perfectly  dry. 

If  paper  and  transportation  be  limited,  several  specimens  from  the  same  locality  may  be  com 
bined  in  the  same  sheet  after  they  are  dry. 

Throw  into  each  sheet  a  slip  of  paper  having  a  number  or  locality  written  on  it  correspond 
ing  with  a  list  kept  in  a  memorandum  book.  Kecord  the  day  of  the  month,  locality,  size,  and 
character  of  the  plant,  color  of  flower,  fruit,  &c. 

If  the  stem  is  too  long,  double  it  or  cut  it  into  lengths.  Collect,  if  possible,  half  a  dozen 
specimens  of  each  kind.  In  the  small  specimens,  collect  the  entire  plant  so  as  to  show  the  root. 

It  will  not  be  possible  to  collect  minerals,  fossils,  and  geological  specimens  in  very  great 
quantity  of  large  dimensions.  The  fossils  selected  should  be  as  perfect  as  possible,  and  especial 
care  should  be  paid  to  procuring  the  bones  and  teeth  of  vertebrate  animals.  Of  the  minerals 
and  rocks,  specimens  as  large  as  a  hickory-nut  will,  in  most  cases,  be  sufficient  for  identification. 

All  facts  relating  to  the  habits  and  peculiarities  of  the  various  species  of  animals  should  be 
carefully  recorded  in  the  note-book,  especially  those  having  relation  to  the  peculiarities  of  the 
season  of  reproduction,  &c.  The  accounts  of  hunters  and  others  should  also  be  collected,  as 
much  valuable  information  may  thus  be  secured. 

The  colors  of  the  reptiles  and  fishes  when  alive  should  always  be  given. 


MEMORANDUM  OF  APPARATUS  FOR  MAKING  COLLECTIONS  IN  NATURAL  HISTORY,  SUPPLIED  TO  THE 

SEVERAL  PARTIES  OF  MAJOR  I.  I.  STEVENS. 

1.  Two  leather  panniers,  supplied  with  back-strap  for  throwing  across  a  mule.     One  of  these 
is  intended  to  contain  the  copper  kettles,  and  their  included  alcohol,  together  with  the  nets  and 
other  apparatus ;  the  other  to  hold  the  botanical  apparatus,  skins  of  animals,  minerals,  &c. 

2.  Two  copper  kettles  in  one  of  the  panniers,  to  contain  the  alcohol  for  such  specimens  as 
require  this  mode  of  preservation,  viz:  reptiles,  fishes,  small  quadrupeds,  most  insects,  and  all 
soft  invertebrates.     The  alcohol,  if  over  eighty  per  cent.,  should  have  one-fourth  of  water 
added. 

3.  An  iron  wrench,  to  loosen  the  screw-caps  of  the  copper  kettles,  when  too  tight  to  be  man 
aged  by  hand. 

4.  Two  India  rubber  bags,  one  for  each  kettle.     These  are  intended  to  be  inflated  inside  of 
the  kettles,  and  by  displacing  the  alcohol  cause  it  to  rise  to  the  edge  of  the  brass  cup,  and  thus 


DIRECTIONS   FOR   THE   MINERALOGICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL    EXAMINATIONS.  11 

fill  the  kettle.  Unless  this  be  done,  and  any  unoccupied  space  thus  filled  up,  the  specimens 
will  be  washed  against  the  sides  of  the  vessel  and  much  injured. 

5.  Small  bags  made  of  lino,  of  different  sizes,  and  open  at  one  end.  These  are  intended,  in 
the  first  place,  to  separate  the  specimens  of  different  localities  from  each  other;  and,  in  the 
second  place,  to  secure  them  from  mutual  friction,  or  other  injury.  The  number  or  name  cor- 
"responding  to  the  locality  is  to  be  marked  on  the  outside  with  red  chalk,  or  written  with  ink  on 
a  slip  of  parchment  and  dropped  inside.  The  specimens  are  then  to  be  placed  in  the  bag,  a 
string  tied  around  the  open  end,  and  the  bag  thrown  into  alcohol.  The  ink  of  the  parchment 
must  be  dry  before  the  slip  is  moistened  in  any  way. 

N.  B. — Fishes  and  reptiles  over  five  or  six  inches  in  length  should  have  a  small  incision 
made  in  the  abdomen,  to  facilitate  the  introduction  of  the  alcohol.  Larger  snakes  and  small 
quadrupeds  may  be  skinned,  and  the  skins  placed  in  alcohol. 

G.  lied  chalk  pencils,  for  marking  the  bags. 

7.  Parchment,  to  serve  as  labels  for  the  bags.     This  may  also  be  cut  into  labels  and  fastened 
by  strings  to  such  specimens  as  are  not  suited  for  the  bags. 

8.  Small  seines,  for  catching  fishes  in  small  streams.     The  two  ends  should  be  fastened  to 
brails  or  sticks,  (hoe-handles  answer  well,)  which  are  taken  in  the  hands  of  two  persons,  and 
the  net  drawn  both  up  and  down  stream.     Fishes  may  often  be  caught  by  stirring  up  the 
gravel  or  small  stones  in  a  stream,  and  drawing  the  net  rapidly  down  the  current.     Bushes  or 
holes  along  the  banks  may  be  enclosed  by  the  nets,  and  stirred  so  as  to  drive  out  the  fishes, 
which  usually  lurk  in  such  localities. 

9.  Casting-net.     This  is  sent  only  to  the  permanent  station. 

10.  Alcohol.     About  five  gallons  to  each  travelling  party.     This  should  be  about  eighty  per 
cent,  in  strength,  and  medicated  by  the  addition  of  one  ounce  of  tartar  emetic  to  one  gallon  of 
alcohol,  to  prevent  its  being  surreptitiously  drunk. 

11.  Arsenic,  in  two-pound  tea  canisters.     This  may  be  applied  to  the  moist  skins  of  birds  and 
quadrupeds,  either  dry  or  mixed  with  alcohol. 

12.  Tartar  emetic,  for  medicating  the  alcohol  as  above. 

13.  Cotton,  for  stuffing  out  the  heads  of  birds  and  mammals.     To  diminish  the  bulk,  but 
little  should  be  put  into  the  bodies  of  animals.     The  skulls  of  the  quadrupeds  had  better  be 
removed  from  the  skins,  but  carefully  preserved. 

14.  Paper,  for  wrapping  up  the  skins  of  birds  and  small  quadrupeds,  each  separately.     The 
paper  supplied  for  botanical  purposes  will  answer  for  this. 

15.  Stitcher  knife,  scissors,  needles  and  thread,  for  skinning  and  sewing  up  animals. 

16.  Blank  labels  of  paper  for  marking  localities,  sex,  &c.,  and  tying  to  the  legs  of  the  dried 
skins. 

17.  Portfolio  for  collecting  plants. 

18.  Press  for  drying  plants  between  the  blotting  paper.     Pressure  is  applied  by  straps. 

19.  Very  absorbent  paper  for  drying  plants. 

20.  Stiffer  paper  for  collecting  plants  in  the  field.     The  same  paper  to  be  used  for  wrapping 
skins  of  birds  and  quadrupeds,  as  well  as  minerals  and  fossils. 

21.  Small  bottles  for  collecting  and  preserving  insects. 

22.  Geological  hammer. 

23.  Fine  shot  for  birds.     About  No.  9  is  most  convenient  for  the  purpose. 


WASHINGTON,  April  20,  1853. 

SIR:  In  compliance  with  your  request,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit,  briefly  and  simply,  a  few 
suggestions  for  the  guidance  of  your  several  corps,  such  as  in  my  judgment  will  best  serve  to 
develop  the  mineral  and  agricultural  resources  of  the  interesting  but  comparatively  unexplored 
region  of  country  assigned  to  you  for  examination, 


12  DIRECTIONS   FOR   THE   MINERALOGICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL   EXAMINATIONS. 

The  best  mode  of  effecting  these  objects  would  be,  in  the  first  place,  to  collect  sufficient  data 
for  the  construction  of  a  geological  section  and  map,  showing  the  order  and  succession  of  rocks 
from  the  upper  Mississippi  river  to  the  Pacific  ocean.  To  accomplish  this  object,  careful  exam 
ination  should  be  made  of  every  exposure  of  rock  in  place  on  the  route;  the  dip,  or  inclination 
from  the  horizontal;  thickness  of  each  stratum  of  rock  exhibited;  relative  position;  and,  so 
far  as  practicable,  the  lithological  character  noted.  Where  outbursts  of  granite  or  other 
igneous  rocks  occur,  through  the  stratified  rock,  observe  the  general  range  of  the  volcanic 
action;  also  notice  the  direction  of  veins  of  quartz  or  other  minerals.  Specimens  for  analysis 
should  be  collected  at  all  important  points.  Two  inches  by  one  of  surface,  and  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  will  answer  this  purpose.  Careful  barometrical  observation  should  be  made,  not 
only  of  the  elevations,  but  at  regular  intervals,  say  six  times  a  day,  along  the  whole  extent  of 
country.  The  small  streams  and  rivers  afford  the  best  opportunity  for  geological  investigations. 

In  all  cases  where  the  rocks  are  fossiliferous,  collect  two  or  three  well  preserved  specimens ; 
these  would  better  determine  the  age  and  true  position  of  the  rocks  than  weeks  of  investigation 
without  them  ;  one  or  two  perfect  specimens  being  far  more  valuable  than  a  dozen  that  have 
been  rubbed  or  fractured. 

From  the  Sioux  river  to  the  falls  of  the  Missouri,  on  both  sides  of  the  Missouri,  you  pass 
through  the  cretaceous  and  tertiary  formations,  perhaps  as  rich  in  fossil  remains  as  any  other 
region  in  the  country,  or  it  may  be  in  the  world. 

Microscopic  organic  deposits,  recent  and  fossil,  are  occasionally  met  with.  These  infusorial 
remains  are  sometimes  found  in  layers  of  considerable  thickness,  and  are  well  worthy  of  careful 
investigation.  These  rocks  are  silicious  and  calcareous,  usually  of  a  yellowish  tinge  and  some 
what  friable,  and  have  been  found  in  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  and  in  the  beds  of  several  of  its 
small  tributaries.  Small  specimens  should  be  collected. 

All  discoveries  of  valuable  ores,  or  useful  minerals,  clays,  marls,  saline  and  chalybeate 
springs,  &c.,  should  be  located,  when  practicable,  by  the  distance  and  direction  from  some 
prominent  geographical  feature  of  the  country,  as  mountain,  river,  &c.,  and  specimens  be  col 
lected  for  analysis.  In  connexion  with  this  subject  it  is  highly  important  that  a  series  of 
observations  be  made  on  the  dip  and  intensity  of  the  needle,  as  intimately  connected  with 
the  geological  and  mineralogical  character  of  that  region  of  country,  and  as  likely  to  lead  to 
results  interesting  to  the  cause  of  general  science.  Note  carefully  at  all  times  whether  there 
are  such  indications  of  valuable  minerals  as  would  render  expedient  a  further  examination. 

All  specimens  of  rocks,  minerals,  and  fossils,  should  be  wrapped  in  strong  paper,  with  a  label 
of  the  locality  inside  written  in  ink,  and  packed  sufficiently  tight,  either  in  bags  or  boxes,  to 
prevent  rubbing.  Crumbling  fossils  may  be  preserved  by  soaking  them  in  a  thin  solution  of 
glue  or  gum  arabic. 

Specimens  of  soil  for  analysis  should  be  collected,  and  the  sub-soil  noted,  in  prairie  and 
bottom  land,  throughout  the  entire  route ;  at  least  on  every  change  of  surface  rocks,  as  you 
pass  over  the  various  geological  formations,  from  the  magnesian  limestone  and  lower  sandstone 
of  the  St.  Peter's  river,  through  the  vast  drift  region  extending  to  the  Sioux  river  of  the  Mis 
souri,  through  the  various  chalk  marls,  sandstones,  plastic  clays  and  slaty  clays  of  the  creta 
ceous  formations,  the  limestone  coarse  conglomerates  and  silicious  clays  of  the  tertiary  period, 
on  to  the  comparatively  fertile  strip  of  land  caused  by  the  decomposition  of  the  older  limestones 
of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  vegetable  matter  washed  down  from  their  various  slopes,  to  the 
basaltic  soils  of  Middle  Oregon,  occupying  three  hundred  miles  in  extent,  and,  crossing  the 
Cascade  range  of  mountains,  to  the  tertiary  soils  of  Western  Oregon.  Each  of  these  soils,  so 
different  in  their  constituents,  produces  different  grasses,  wild  tiowers,  and  trees,  and  is  more 
or  less  adapted  to  various  agricultural  purposes.  Hence  the  vast  importance  of  a  careful 
analysis  of  these  soils  in  advance  of  the  settlement  of  the  country.  Bags,  made  of  ticking, 
holding  from  a  pint  to  a  pint  and  a  half,  are  best  suited  to  a  preservation  of  these  specimens. 


LETTER   TO    THE    SECRETARY   OF   WAR.  13 

They  should  "be  numbered,  and  a  corresponding  number  entered  in  the  note-book,  with  a  par 
ticular  description  of  the  localities. 

It  will  not  be  necessary  to  make  geological  collections,  except  of  soils,  until  you  reach 
Traverse  des  Sioux,  as  the  exploring  parties  of  Dr.  Owen  have  already  determined  with  suffi 
cient  accuracy  the  geology  of  that  district.  But  after  crossing  the  extensive  drift  region  before 
alluded  to  (where  it  is  only  important  to  notice  the  underlying  rocks)  you  come  into  the  rich 
fossiliferous  regions  of  the  cretaceous  and  tertiary  formations.  Here  it  is  of  great  importance  to 
make  careful  geological  sections  of  the  rocks  exposed,  and  to  collect  all  the  fossil  remains  met 
with,  in  order  to  determine  with  greater  accuracy  the  boundary  of  these  formations,  and  as  far 
as  practicable  of  their  various  members.  As  before  stated,  they  extend  to  near  the  falls  of  the 
Missouri,  and  this  is  the  only  portion  of  the  route  where  it  is  particularly  desirable  that  extensive 
geological  collections  should  be  made.  All  specimens  collected  in  this  region  you  are  requested 
to  deposit  at  Forts  Union  and  Benton,  carefully  packed  in  boxes  for  shipment  down  the  Mis 
souri  river,  and  directed  to . 

An  interesting  feature  in  the  geology  of  the  upper  Missouri  river  country  is  the  great  lignite 
bed,  commencing  about  latitude  47°,  and  showing  itself  at  various  points  on  the  Missouri  river 
for  seven  hundred  miles.  In  this  vast  prairie  country,  almost  wholly  destitute  of  timber,  it  is 
important  that  the  quality  and  extent  of  this  coal  bed  be  determined.  Specimens,  therefore, 
should  be  collected,  both  of  the  coal  and  the  rocks  associated  with  it. 

Special  attention  is  directed  to  the  geological  formations  along  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mount 
ains,  both  east  and  west  of  the  main  range.  The  age  of  these  rocks  has  been  a  matter  of  some 
doubt;  and  it  is  highly  important,  if  any  of  them  are  fossiliferous,  that  collections  be  made. 

The  Bitter  Boot  range  of  mountains  is  perhaps  the  most  interesting  portion  of  your  route  for 
mineralogical  research.  I  collected  here  rich  specimens  of  iron,  copper,  and  other  valuable  and 
useful  ores ;  and  in  some  portions  of  the  range  the  rocks  bear  considerable  analogy  to  the 
talcose  and  other  allied  rocks  of  the  gold-bearing  regions  of  California. 

As  you  proceed  northward  a  considerable  change  occurs  in  the  geological  features  of  the 
country.  Galena,  of  good  quality,  has  been  found  near  Fort  Colville,  north  of  the  British  line. 
If  these  seams  extend  into  our  own  territory,  it  would  prove  a  discovery  of  great  value,  and  it  is 
therefore  worthy  of  investigation. 

West  of  the  Cascade  range  of  mountains,  on  the  way  to  and  from  Puget  sound,  your  parties 
will  pass  and  repass  through  the  great  coal  or  lignite  region  of  Washington  Territory.  The 
beds  are  of  greater  thickness  and  better  quality  than  have  been  found  in  the  same  geological 
formation  in  any  other  country,  and  may  prove  of  great  value.  It  is  my  intention  to  spend 
several  months- in  the  exploration  of  that  section,  but  the  incidental  information  obtained  by 
your  numerous  corps  might  be  of  great  advantage  in  developing  the  extent  and  value  of  these 
deposits. 

Very  respectfully, 

JOHN  EVANS, 

Geologist  of  the  Expedition. 

Gov.  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 


CAMP  PIERCE,  June  3,  1853. 

SIR:  I  reached  St.  Paul's  on  Friday  evening  last  (May  27,)  and  the  next  morning  went  to 
the  camp  which  had  been  established  by  Captain  Gardiner,  some  three  miles  from  Fort 
Snelling,  west  of  the  Mississippi  river ;  and  which,  in  honor  of  the  President,  I  have  named 
Camp  Pierce. 

The  camp  was  established  by  Captain  Gardiner  on  the  24th  of  May,  the  day  after  the  arrival 
of  the  full  list  of  mules,  one  hundred  and  seventv-tvro  in  number ;  and  on  the  25th  ultimo  the 


14  REPORT   ON   RECONNAISSANCE   OF   UPPER   MISSISSIPPI. 

whole  expedition  was  brought  together,  with  the  exception  of  Mr.  Stanley,  the  artist,  Mr. 
Osgood,  the  disbursing  agent,  Mr.  Evans  and  Mr.  Kendall,  two  aids  of  the  expedition,  and 
myself.  About  one-half  of  the  mules  had  never  been  broken,  either  in  wagons,  to  pack,  or 
saddle,  and  the  remaining  half  were  quite  wild,  and  required  much  work  to  prepare  them  for 
service.  In  consequence  of  these  difficulties,  and  there  not  having  been  engaged  a  sufficient 
number  of  teamsters,  some  delay  has  necessarily  occurred  in  setting  out. 

Captain  Gardiner  and  Lieutenant  Grover  have  been  indefatigable  in  their  exertions,  and, 
considering  the  difficulties  that  have  been  encountered,  great  progress  has  been  made. 

On  Tuesday,  (May  31,)  the  two  civil  engineers,  Mr.  Lander  and  Mr.  Tinkham,  were  sent  out 
with  small  parties  to  commence  the  survey  of  the  railroad  route.  Their  riding-mules,  as  well 
as  all  the  riding-mules  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  party,  have  been  broken  by  themselves  with 
very  little  additional  assistance,  several  of  the  younger  members  of  the  party  having  only 
succeeded  in  mastering  their  animals  after  having  been  thrown  several  times.  Mr.  Lander,  the 
morning  he  set  out,  was  thrown,  and  had  his  shoulder  put  out  of  joint.  It  was  brought  back 
by  the  main  strength  of  three  men,  and  he  immediately  set  out  at  the  head  of  his  party. 

I  refer  to  these  facts  to  show  the  spirit  of  my  command,  and  the  promise  thus  given  that  all 
difficulties  must  disappear  before  the  hardihood  and  the  resolution  thus  exhibited.  All  this 
has  been  done  in  the  midst  of  drenching  rains.  It  has  rained  since  Tuesday,  till  to-day. 

Mr.  Lander  had  previously  made  a  reconnaissance  of  the  several  crossings  of  the  Mississippi, 
for  the  details  of  which  I  refer  you  to  the  enclosed  copy  of  his  report.  I  also  enclose  the 
instructions  given  to  Mr.  Lander  and  Mr.  Tinkham,  in  relation  to  their  respective  duties. 

To-day  I  sent  off  a  small  train  of  three  wagons  and  twenty-four  pack-mules  to  a  depot  and 
station  which  I  propose  to  establish  west  of  the  Mississippi  river,  near  the  Sauk  rapids.  The 
mules  were  the  wildest  of  the  whole  number,  and  were  packed  for  the  first  time,  yet  they 
reached  their  camping  ground,  setting  out  at  11  o'clock,  a  distance  of  six  miles,  in  season  to  picket 
the  animals  before  sundown.  To-morrow  I  shall  send  off  a  small  train,  and  on  Monday  the 
whole  camp  will  be  in  motion. 

Proceeding  with  the  astronomical  and  magnetic  party,  I  shall  take  the  steamer  at  St. 
Anthony,  and  reach  the  depot  west  of  the  Sauk  rapids  on  Tuesday  evening,  and  there  estab 
lish  a  station,  which,  with  the  observations  at  this  station,  will  connect  with  Nicollet's  survey, 
and  give  a  good  base  on  the  Mississippi  river.  I  shall  reach  the  depot  in  season  to  make 
arrangements  for  the  whole  command  to  cross  the  river,  and  at  the  same  time  be  in  easy  com 
munication  with  Mr.  Tinkham  and  Mr.  Lander.  The  whole  command  will,  I  trust,  be  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Mississippi  on  Saturday  next,  June  11,  and  on  Monday  I  hope  to  be  able  to 
push  rapidly  into  the  interior. 

Lieutenants  Du  Barry  and  Grover  have  been  indefatigable  in  preparing  themselves  for  their 
duties,  practising  at  all  the  observations  and  computations.  They  will  be  able,  on  leaving  the 
Mississippi,  to  take  command  of  sub-parties,  and  make  in  person  all  the  observations. 

Before  leaving  this  depot,  I  will  again  communicate  with  the  department,  and  state  more 
specifically  how  I  shall  organize  the  several  parties,  particularly  those  under  Lieutenants  Du 
Barry  and  Grover. 

I  am,  very  truly  and  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 

Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington,  D.  C. 


ST.  PAUL'S,  May  22,  1853. 

SIR:    In  receiving  your  instructions  in  regard  to  a  reconnaissance  of  the  upper   Mississippi 
for  a  railroad  crossing,  I  was  directed  to  view  this  subject  with  reference  to  a  feasible  connexion 


REPORT   ON   RECONNAISSANCE   OF   UPPER   MISSISSIPPI.  15 

with  Lake  Superior;  to  choose  a  point  which  should  not  interfere  with  steamboat  navigation, 
and  one  that  would  occupy  a  favorable  position  for  joining  the  main  line  east.  With  these 
quite  definite  instructions  to  guide  my  examinations,  I  have  made  an  actual  reconnaissance  of 
the  river  from  St.  Paul's  to  Fort  Ripley,  and  beg  leave  to  submit  the  following  report: 

At  the  ferry  near  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  at  the  rapids  near  mouth  of  Sauk  river,  at  several 
points  for  two  miles  above  these  rapids,  at  the  ferry  near  Swan  river,  and  at  Little  Falls,  I 
have  found  locations  for  crossing  the  river  with  a  railroad  bridge.  The  first  of  these,  near  the 
falls  of  St.  Anthony,  is  about  eight  hundred  (800)  feet.  It  does  not  occupy  so  favorable  a  posi 
tion,  in  regard  to  a  connexion  with  Lake  Superior,  as  either  of  the  other  points.  The  crossing 
is  much  greater  in  length,  and  the  quantity  of  masonry  larger  than  at  those  farther  north. 
The  cost  of  this  masonry  is  excessive,  from  the  necessity  of  bringing  the  material  for  construc 
tion  from  Sauk  rapids.  The  distance  to  "Dead  Colt  Hillock" — a  point  near  the  course  of 
survey — is  not  less  by  this  crossing  than  by  passing  over  the  fine  gravel  country  east  of  the 
Mississippi  to  Sauk  rapids.  The  water  is  deep,  and  the  current  much  more  swift  than  at  any  of 
the  other  points.  Passing  west,  the  country  is  thickly  wooded,  springy,  entirely  impassable 
for  wagons,  and  inducing  additional  cost  in  grubbing  and  culvert  masonry.  I  deem  this  crossing 
the  least  favorable  ofthose  I  have  examined.  Eighty  miles  north  of  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  at 
the  head  of  steamboat  navigation,  and  near  the  mouth  of  Sauk  river,  occur  several  favorable 
crossings,  nearly  similar  in  character.  These,  with  the  routes  connected,  should  at  some  future 
period  be  subjected  to  a  careful  survey;  the  limited  time  allowed  for  the  present  examination 
necessarily  confining  my  attention  to  reconnaissance. 

The  first  of  these,  near  the  mouth  of  Sauk  river,  is  about  five  hundred  (500)  feet.  By  encoun 
tering  the  rapid  current  near  the  falls,  excellent  foundation  for  bridge  masonry  can  be  obtained 
upon  the  granite  ledge  of  the  section.  Within  two  (2)  miles  are  five  other  points,  none  exceed 
ing  six  hundred  (600)  feet  in  length.  The  adjoining  ledge  furnishes  granite  of  suitable  quality 
for  heavy  masonry. 

I  have  estimated  the  cost  of  a  bridge  at  Sauk  rapids,  for  a  road-bed  of  twenty  (20)  feet,  as 
follows : 

500  feet  of  Howe's  truss,  at  twenty-five  dollars  ($25) $12,500 

1,353  cubic  yards  of  bridge  masonry,  at  twelve  dollars  ($12) 16,236 

Ptepairing  foundations,  say 1,000 

29,736 


Five  miles  farther  north,  near  the  mouth  of  river  Watab,  occurs  a  crossing  four  hundred 
(400)  feet  in  length,  with  excellent  foundations  of  granite  ledge.  This  crossing  is  so  situated 
as  to  induce  cutting  of  about  twenty  (20)  feet  in  hard  material,  upon  the  east  shore  of  the  river ; 
say  twenty  thousand  yards  at  forty  (40)  cents,  or  $8,000.  The  adjacent  ledge  not  being  of 
suitable  quality  for  building,  the  material  for  masonry  must  be  brought  from  Sauk  rapids. 
The  location  is  neither  so  feasible  of  approach,  nor  in  facility  of  getting  west,  as  that  at  Sauk 
rapids,  although  the  passage  of  the  river  is  shorter,  and  the  current  not  so  swift. 

Twenty-four  miles  north  of  Watab,  near  the  mouth  of  Swan  river,  is  a  crossing  four  hundred 
and  fifty  (450)  feet  in  length.  It  has  no  advantages  over  those  at  Sauk  rapids.  The  abutment 
foundations  must  be  obtained  by  piling ;  pier  foundations  adjusted  by  coffer-dam  or  winter  crib- 
work.  The  current  is  not'swift,  the  water  about  eight  feet  in  depth.  Four  miles  north  of  this 
point,  at  the  island  near  Little  Falls,  is  a  very  fine  crossing  of  three  hundred  and  twenty-five 
(325)  feet. 

Four  wing  abutments  and  a  slight  increase  of  truss  will  be  required,  from  the  destructible 
nature  of  the  ledge  foundation,  which  is  slate  rock,  strongly  impregnated  with  iron,  and  affected 
by  the  atmosphere.  Two  short  bridges  would  be  necessary — one,  of  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  (1 25)  feet,  crossing  the  east  branch  of  the  river  to  island  ;  thence  embankment  of  one  hundred 


16  INSTRUCTIONS   TO   CIVIL   ENGINEER. 

and  fifty  (150)  feet;  thence  bridge  span  of  two  hundred  (200)  feet,  over  main  channel  of  the 
river.  The  actual  width  of  the  main  channel  here  is  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  (175)  feet, 
and  the  whole  crossing  the  best  upon  the  Mississippi  from  St.  Paul's  to  Fort  Ripley.  The 
boulders  of  the  hill-sides  in  this  vicinity  afford  good  granite  for  light  masonry.  The  magazine 
at  Fort  Ripley  is  built  of  these  boulders ;  but  they  are  not  abundant,  neither  do  they  furnish 
blocks  of  sufficient  size  for  exposed  bridge  abutments.  The  material  for  this  purpose  must  be 
brought  from  Sauk  rapids,  thirty-two  miles  below.  The  country  on  the  east  side  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  from  St.  Paul's  to  Little  Falls,  presents  facilities  for  railway  construction  I  have  never  seen 
exceeded;  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  of  level,  or  slightly  rolling  gravel  plain,  supersedes 
all  necessity  for  ballasting,  and  affords  peculiar  advantages  for  forming  an  embankment  road 
bed — the  very  best  mode  of  construction  for  guarding  against  the  snows  and  frosts  of  a  northern 
climate. 

Passing  west  from  Little  Falls,  I  find  no  serious  difficulty  to  encounter  over  a  route  which 
had  been  represented  to  me  as  very  severe.  The  country,  to  be  sure,  is  broken,  the  ground 
springy,  and  the  cost  of  moving  material  will  evidently  exceed  that  of  the  line  east  of  the  Mis 
sissippi.  There  is  a  greater  quantity  of  earth  to  be  excavated,  and  quite  an  increase  in  the 
amount  of  culvert  masonry ;  still  the  surface  presents  a  favorable  aspect  for  good  alignment. 
No  cut  will  exceed  twenty  feet.  There  is  no  appearance  of  ledge,  and  by  exercising  some  degree 
of  care  in  the  location  an  excellent  route  can  be  obtained. 

I  have  no  knowledge  of  this  line  extending  beyond  Long  Prairie.  It  is  represented  to  me  as 
broken  into  sharp  ridges,  very  swampy,  and  quite  thickly  wooded. 

Summing  up  this  matter,  it  seems  evident  that  the  proper  course  of  the  survey  would  be  from 
St.  Paul's  up  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Mississippi  to  Sauk  rapids,  thence  near  the  Red  River 
trail  towards  the  head- waters  of  the  Sauk.  Sufficiently  reliable  information  is  afforded  to  prove 
to  us  that  a  very  excellent  route  can  thus  be  secured. 

The  passage  of  the  Mississippi  is  made  at  a  point  that  does  not  interfere  with  steamboat  navi 
gation.  It  affords  all  necessary  advantages  to  a  communication  with  Lake  Superior,  is  in  a 
favorable  position  as  regards  an  eastern  connection,  and  will  thus  insure  the  proper  direction 
of  capital  in  the  location  of  private  lines.  The  crossing  at  Little  Falls  is  nearer  a  direct  route 
from  the  Pacific  to  Lake  Superior,  and  therefore  worthy  of  serious  notice ;  yet  it  is  evident  that 
the  interests  of  private  companies  should  not  be  neglected,  and  that  those  operations  should  be 
fostered  which,  in  efforts  to  develop  the  resources  of  this  rich  inland  country,  will  add  their 
share  to  the  importance  of  our  great  enterprise,  and  aid  in  bringing  it  to  a  successful  termina 
tion.  Passing  through  a  country  already  forward  in  vegetation,  and  presenting  every  facility 
for  expediting  progress  of  survey,  the  route  at  Sauk  rapids  is  superior  to  all  others  in  the  fea 
tures  required  by  your  letter  of  instructions. 

Submitting  this  result  of  my  examinations,  I  remain,  with  respect,  your  obedient  servant, 

F.  W.  LANDER. 

Gov.  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  N.  P.  R.  R.  Exploring  Expedition. 


CAMP  PIERCE,  May  31,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  You  will  immediately  proceed  to  St.  Paul's,  and  at  once  commence  the  survey  of 
a  railroad  route,  and  proceed  northward  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi  river,  crossing  said 
river  at  the  Sauk  rapids,  making  a  reconnaissance  of  the  country  over  which  you  pass,  and 
directing  particularly  your  attention  to  the  examination  of  the  river  crossings. 

At  Sauk  rapids  you  will  direct  your  attention  to  the  investigation  of  the  best  method  of,  and 
securing  the  means  for,  the  crossing  of  the  main  party,  which  will  follow  in  a  few  days.  You 
are  authorized  to  employ  men,  secure  boats,  and  to  procure  the  best  means  to  accomplish  this 


INSTRUCTIONS    TO    CIVIL    ENGINEER.  17 

object;  and  the  arrangements  which  you  make  you  will  communicate  to  me  at  the  earliest  prac 
ticable  moment. 

From  Sauk  rapids  you  will  continue  your  reconnaissances  of  the  country  westward,  exam 
ining  the  various  routes.  You  are  not  confined  to  any  specific  route,  but,  keeping  in  mind  the 
line  over  which  the  main  train  will  pass,  much  is  left  to  your  own  judgment. 

In  the  map  of  Nicollet,  accompanying  this,  several  probable  routes  are  laid  down :  one  cross 
ing  the  Cheyenne  river  but  once,  and  passing  just  south  of  the  Miniwakan  lake;  a  second 
crossing  the  river  twice,  and  passing  some  twenty  or  thirty  miles  south  of  the  lake ;  a  third 
keeping  at  the  headwaters  of  the  southern  tributaries  of  the  same  river,  in  the  general  direc 
tion  of  Dead  Colt  Hillock,  and  north  of  the  Coteau  des  Prairies.  All  these  routes,  there  is 
reason  to  believe,  can  be  pursued,  and  they  are  referred  to  simply  to  call  your  attention  to  the 
magnitude  and  extent  of  the  work  of  the  expedition  through  that  region.  You  will  endeavor 
to  keep  me  advised  of  your  movements,  and  may  expect  me  to  join  you  before  you  have  advanced 
far  into  the  interior. 

You  will  give  special  attention  to  the  several  river  crossings  on  the  Red  river  trail,  so  far  as 
it  will  be  pursued  by  the  main  party,  and  will  make  such  arrangements  for  the  crossings  as  you 
may  deem  advisable. 

Endeavor  to  replace  the  two  teamsters  sent  with  your  wagon  to-day,  and  send  them  back  to 
camp  ;  send  in  all  the  good  men  you  come  across.  Engage  none  but  hardy  fellows  to  assist 
you,  and  such  men  as  will  be  useful  in  the  whole  expedition,  should  their  services  be  needed. 
Purchase  the  four-mule  team  at  Fort  Ripley,  and  have  it  at  Sauk  rapids  for  the  main  party, 
with  two  good  teamsters. 

I  am,  very  truly,  &c., 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 

F.  W.  LANDER,  Esq. 


CAMP  PIERCE,  May  31,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  You  have  already  received  verbal  instructions  to  take  the  field  to-day  and  enter 
upon  your  duties  as  one  of  the  associate  civil  engineers  on  the  northern  Pacific  railroad  explo 
ration. 

The  general  course  reconnoitred  by  your  associate,  Mr.  Lander,  east  of  the  Mississippi  river, 
from  St.  Paul's  to  the  crossing  of  the  Mississippi  above  the  Sauk  rapids,  will  be  pursued  by 
you ;  and,  whilst  you  will  collect  as  much  data  in  reference  to  the  details  of  the  construction  as 
practicable,  you  will  arrange  the  scale  of  it  so  that  with  your  present  force,  with  a  few  days' 
experience,  you  will  be  able  to  make  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  per  day. 

You  will  connect  the  camp,  and  the  magnetic  and  astronomical  observations,  with  your  route; 
and  at  each  camping-ground  leave  some  mark,  as  a  blazed  tree,  whereby  future  observations 
can  be  connected  with  your  work.  You  will  also  note  in  your  journal  good  points  for  camping, 
with  brief  notes  as  to  grass,  water,  and  wood  for  camp-fires.  Keep  up  the  sketches  with  care. 
The  variation  of  the  needle  will  be  furnished  in  season. 

You  will  probably  reach  the  Sauk  rapids  a  day  or  two  in  advance  of  the  main  train,  and  will 
be  able  to  make  a  rapid  instrumental  survey  of  the  same.  I  have  instructed  Mr.  Lander  to 
make  arrangements  for  the  crossing  at  that  point ;  and  should  the  main  body  not  reach  you, 
you  will  cross  the  river  without  delay  and  work  westward. 

Should  you,  on  special  occasions  or  for  permanent  services,  find  it  necessary  to  engage  more 
men,  you  are  authorized  to  do  so — recollecting  that  it  will  be  necessary,  so  far  as  practicable, 
to  reduce  the  scale  of  the  work,  abridging  the  quantity  of  the  data,  rather  than  to  increase  the 
force. 

A  written  report  will  be  required,  to  include  the  crossing  of  the  Mississippi ;  and  I  will  sug- 
3/ 


18  LETTER  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 

gest  that,  so  far  as  practicable,  it  be  simply  your  journal.     It  seems  to  me,  that  with  a  brief 
introductory  memoir,  it  will  be  just  the  thing  that  is  to  be  desired. 

Send  to  camp  all  the  good  men  you  find ;  we  are  very  deficient  in  force. 

Yours,  truly, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 
A.  W.  TINKIIAM,  Esq. 


CAMP  DAVIS,  NEAR  SAUK  RAPIDS, 

June  10,  1853. 

SIR:  Having  on  Saturday  and  Sunday,  June  4th  and  5th,  sent  forward  two  small  parties 
of  wagons,  and  a  party  with  the  mountain  howitzer  and  five  dragoons,  I  broke  up  my  camp  on 
Lake  Amelia  (Camp  Pierce)  on  Monday,  June  6th,  and  sent  the  command  forward  in  three 
parties:  one  under  Lieutenant  Grover,  consisting  of  the  astronomical,  magnetic,  and  meteoro 
logical  party,  were  sent  on  the  steamer  that  plies  between  St.  Anthony  and  Sauk  rapids,  with 
directions  to  land  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi  river,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Sauk  river, 
one  of  its  western  tributaries,  and,  crossing  the  ford,  to  establish  an  astronomical,  magnetic, 
and  meteorological  station  on  the  Red  river  trail;  the  second,  under  Lieutenant  Du  Barry,  con 
sisting  of  Mr.  Stanley,  the  artist  of  the  expedition,  Dr.  Suckley,  the  surgeon  and  naturalist,  Mr. 
Le  Frambois,  the  guide,  a  sergeant  and  fourteen  dragoons;  the  third  consisting  of  the  train  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Everett,  the  quartermaster  and  commissary  clerk.  I  remained  in  St.  Anthony 
until  about  noon  of  Tuesday,  to  secure  the  services  of  several  voyageurs ;  and  particularly  of 
Pierre  Boutineau,  the  great  guide,  and  Menoc,  the  great  hunter  ;  in  which  I  was  successful. 
Taking  a  rapid  conveyance,  I  pushed  forward  forty  miles  the  same  day,  passing  all  the  parties 
on  the  road,  and  reached  Sank  rapids,  a  distance  of  seventy  miles,  on  Wednesday,  at  11  o'clock 
a.  m.  Lieutenant  Grover  landed  as  directed,  on  Tuesday  evening,  and  being  somewhat  incom 
moded  by  rains,  did  not  establish  his  camp  till  yesterday. 

Yesterday  afternoon  I  pushed  forward  with  Boutineau,  the  guide,  and  reached  the  civil 
engineers,  eighteen  miles  ahead,  at  Cold  spring;  in  company  with  whom,  towards  night-fall, 
I  rode  to  the  crossing  of  Sauk  river  and  back — eight  miles.  One  bad  place  near  the  camp  has 
been  placed  in  good  condition.  There  are  two  other  bad  places  in  the  road,  which  I  am  con 
fident  can  be  made  practicable  for  wagons  in  a  few  hours ;  and  I  think  the  civil  engineers  will 
be  beyond  the  river  Sauk  to-day. 

I  returned  from  the  civil  engineer  camp  to  Camp  Davis  this  morning,  and  shall  in  an  hour  go 
to  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi  river,  at  Sauk  rapids,  to  make  provision  for  the  crossing  of  a 
portion  of  the  train.  Lieutenant  Du  Barry  is  hourly  expected.  The  remainder  of  the  train 
will  hardly  cross  the  river  till  Monday. 

We  made  very  good  observations  of  all  kinds  at  Camp  Pierce,  and  the  promise  is  good  here. 
The  railroad  examinations,  pushed  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  a  day,  are  satisfactory.  The  artists 
have  been  much  occupied,  and  in  the  natural  history  department  we  have  made  quite  a  col 
lection. 

No  delay  shall  occur  here.  The  animals  will  not  be  pushed,  but  kept  in  motion.  They 
are,  generally,  well  broken — thanks  to  the  spirit  and  determination  of  the  command.  I  have 
not  yet  entirely  arranged  my  plans  ;  all  I  can  do  is  to  see  what  a  day  will  bring  forth,  bringing 
to  the  duties  of  each  day  all  that  previous  experience  has  suggested. 

I  will  write  again  as  I  leave  the  Red  river  trail,  and  will  send  in  a  more  elaborate  report. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


LETTER   TO    THE  SECRETARY   OF   WAR.  19 

CAMP   McCLELLAND,    WEST   SIDE   OF   CHEYENNE   RlVER, 

July  4,  1853. 

SIR:  The  train  from  Pembina  and  the  Bed  river,  on  their  way  to  St.  Paul's,  passed  the  survey 
ing  party  on  the  2d  instant,  and  I  embrace  the  opportunity  again  to  communicate  with  the 
department. 

My  last  letter,  in  regard  to  the  progress  of  the  expedition,  was  written  on  the  eve  of  leaving 
Camp  Davis,  since  which  time  we  have  made  rapid  progress  into  the  interior.  The  command  has 
now  become  thoroughly  organized,  with  broken  animals,  and  hardy  willing  men.  I  feel  the 
utmost  confidence  in  accomplishing  the  great  objects  of  the  expedition. 

Besides  the  difficult  task  of  breaking-in  wild  animals,  many  too  young  for  the  service,  and 
the  still  more  difficult  task  of  getting  into  working  condition  those  run  down  in  the  operation, 
we  have  had  to  encounter  bad  roads,  muddy  sloughs,  river  crossings — consuming  each  an  entire 
day — and  drenching  rains. 

But  for  a  few  days  the  weather  has  been  good.  To-day  we  shall  reach  the  Maple  river  and 
enter  upon  the  high  rolling  prairie.  The  worst  portions  of  the  road  are  gone  over.  The 
grazing  is  remarkably  fine.  Every  man  is  now  mounted,  and  we  shall  now  make  our  regular 
inarches  of  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  per  day. 

But  to  return  to  Camp  Davis.  On  the  12th  of  June  I  despatched  Lieutenant  Grover,  with  a 
picked  party  of  some  fifteen  men,  with  instructions  to  reconnoitre  carefully  the  country  north 
and  in  the  vicinity  of  White  Bear  lake,  with  the  view  of  ascertaining  the  point  where  the  expe 
dition  should  leave  the  Red  river  tract,  and  indicating  that  it  was  desirable  to  run  from  that 
point  north  of  Lake  Traverse  to  the  Dead  Colt  Hillock,  and  thence  to  the  Yellowstone.  The 
remainder  of  the  party  followed  on  the  13th,  15th,  and  16th;  and  on  the  23d  the  whole  party 
was  in  camp  at  Pike  lake,  a  few  miles  north  of  White  Bear  lake. 

Here  we  remained  till  Saturday,  and  made  our  final  arrangements  for  the  march  to  the  Yellow 
stone.  Some  inefficient  men  were  sent  home ;  and  a  detached  party  of  nineteen  picked  men, 
two  wagons,  twenty-six  mules,  and  four  horses,  under  Lieutenant  Grover,  was  organized  to 
explore  the  line  he  was  sent  forward  from  Camp  Davis  to  examine.  He  moved  on  the  morning 
of  the  23d,  in  fine  spirits,  determined  to  distinguish  himself.  I  was  then  confident,  and  am 
still,  that  he  will  pass  over  a  fine  route.  It  is  an  almost  irresistible  inference,  from  the  general 
course  of  the  streams  as  laid  down  on  Nicollet's  map.  His  instructions  are  to  push  forward  to 
the  Yellowstone,  touching,  if  possible,  the  Missouri,  to  connect  with  Lieutenant  Donelson's 
survey. 

I  moved  also  on  the  23d  with  the  main  train,  and  crossed  the  Cheyenne  early  on  Saturday 
morning,  (July  2.)  We  have  moved  rapidly;  one  day  making,  to  reach  wood,  a  march  of 
twenty-seven  miles.  We  bridged  the  Wild  Rice  river,  and  found  a  good  bridge  on  the  Chey 
enne,  the  work  of  our  Red  river  friends. 

The  train  is  now  in  motion,  and  I  am  behind  to  make  up  a  mail,  the  last  till  I  reach  the 
Yellowstone.  We  shall  cross  the  Cheyenne  a  second  time  a  few  miles  north  of  Bald  Hillock 
creek,  and  shall  pass  within  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  of  Miniwakan  lake.  Thence  our  course 
will  be  nearly  straight.  With  my  reconnoitring  force  I  hope  to  cover  a  broad  belt  of  country, 
connecting  with  Lieutenant  Grover 's  route.  The  accompanying  sketch  will  show  the  char 
acter  of  our  work.  It  is  all  the  result  of  careful  observation.  The  work  north  of  our  route,  on 
the  Bois  de  Sioux,  Wild  Rice,  and  Red  rivers,  was  done  in  a  single  day,  by  Mr.  Adams,  a  young 
gentleman  attached  to  the  civil  engineers'  party :  that  west  of  our  present  camp,  on  the  Chey 
enne,  by  Mr.  Lander,  one  of  my  civil  engineers,  assisted  by  Mr.  Adams  and  one  man.  Mr. 
Lander  left  this  on  Saturday  afternoon,  at  four  o'clock,  and  returned  last  evening  a  little  after 
eight — riding  eighty  miles  in  twenty-eight  hours,  and  carefully  observing  for  all  that  distance. 

By  a  comparison  with  Nicollet's  map,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  course  of  the  Cheyenne  at  its 
southern  bend  is  much  out  of  the  way,  and  I  have  determined  to  have  its  southern  shore  care 
fully  examined  by  Mr.  Lander.  He  will  accordingly  start  to-day,  with  Mr.  Adams  and  four 


20  LETTER    TO    THE    SECRETARY   OF   WAR. 

picked  men,  on  his  duty  ;  and  he  will  be  instructed  carefully  to  explore  the  region  along,  and 
south  and  west  of,  the  Cheyenne  river,  connecting,  if  possible,  with  Lieutenant  Grover's  route. 
He  has  choice  animals  and  spare  horses  for  reconnoitring.  I  entertain  no  apprehensions  as  to 
hostile  Indians.  He  will  join  me  south  of  the  Miniwakan  lake. 

The  sketch  indicates  the  course  of  Lieutenant  Grover,  of  my  proposed  course  to  the  second 
crossing  of  the  Cheyenne  river,  and  the  relative  position  of  the  two  routes  to  the  direct  course 
from  the  Sank  crossing  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone. 

The  country  thus  far  is  exceedingly  favorable  for  a  railroad.  I  am  confident  no  grade  to  this 
point  will  be  found  of  more  than  twenty  feet.  The  Cheyenne  is  a  great  obstacle,  and  the  indi 
cations  are  very  decided  that  the  line  must  go  south.  I  have  indicated  a  practicable  railroad 
route.  Its  cost,  without  equipment,  will  not  exceed  twenty  thousand  dollars  per  mile.  No 
important  deflection  is  made.  The  crossing  of  the  Cheyenne  at  this  point  would  cost,  say  one 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  Twenty  miles  west,  at  the  point  A,  not  fifty  thousand  dollars. 
The  line  by  Dead  Colt  Hillock  will,  I  think,  be  better.  But  when  I  reach  the  Yellowstone 
and  have  Lieutenant  Grover's  work  before  me,  I  shall  be  able  to  report  more  definitely  on  this 
portion  of  the  route. 

I  must  make  my  acknowledgment  for  the  promptitude  and  efficiency  shown  by  the  civil  engi 
neers,  Mr.  Tinkman  and  Mr.  Lander,  in  the  work  on  the  railroad  explorations. 

Very  truly  yours, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor,  &c.,  in  Charge  of  Expedition. 

Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


CAMP  GUSHING,  NEAR  FORT  UNION, 

August  8,  1853. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  report  to  the  department,  that  since  the  date  of  my  last  communi 
cation  at  Camp  McClelland,  upon  the  Cheyenne  river,  the  party  has  advanced  with  rapid  marches 
up  to  this  point,  where  we  arrived  at  noon  on  August  1st.  The  detached  party  under  Lieut. 
Grover,  which  was  referred  to  in  my  communication  as  having  been  despatched  by  a  southern 
route  by  the  Dead  Colt  Hillock,  arrived  six  days  in  advance  of  us,  with  information  concerning 
the  route  of  the  most  satisfactory  character.  The  animals  are  all  in  fine  condition ;  our  marches 
the  last  nine  days  having  exceeded  an  average  of  twenty  miles,  and  but  two  are  at  this  time 
unserviceable.  The  very  short  time  to  make  up  my  mail  at  this  time — as  the  steamer,  which 
only  arrived  last  evening,  returns  at  noon  to-day — will  permit  only  the  brief  statement  of  our 
general  success,  reserving  a  full  report  until  my  arrival  at  Fort  Benton. 

A  broad  belt  of  country  has  been  thoroughly  examined,  the  courses  of  Cheyenne  river,  and  of 
the  valley  of  the  Mouse  river,  have  been  brought  in  by  side  reconnaissance,  and  excellent 
practicable  routes  for  a  railroad  ascertained.  From  this  point  I  shall  move  to-day  for  Fort 
Bentou,  which  will  be  reached  in  twenty-five  days.  The  command  will  be  divided  into  two 
parties,  one  under  my  own  supervision,  with  Lieutenant  Grover  in  charge  of  the  scientific 
details,  taking  the  usually  travelled  road  by  Milk  river,  and  the  second  under  Lieutenant 
Donelson,  pursuing  a  route  some  fifty  miles  to  the  northward,  on  which  the  most  prominent 
landmark  is  the  Cypress  mountain,  in  which  rise  streams  flowing  into  both  the  Saskatchewan! 
and  the  Missouri  rivers.  I  have  secured  excellent  guides,  by  one  of  whom  I  am  assured  that 
he  will  lead  us  to  a  pass  in  the  mountains  through  which  the  whole  wagon  train  can  be  taken — 
a  pass  through  which,  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  an  express  train  can  move 
in  four  days,  a  pack  train  in  seven,  and  a  wagon  train  in  fifteen  days.  Everything  looks 
extremely  favorable,  and  I  doubt  not  in  the  least  that  by  the  last  of  September  we  shall  have 
crossed  the  mountains.  As  regards  the  Indians,  I  take  pleasure  in  reporting  that  we  have  met 
two  large  encampments  of  Assiniboins,  by  whom  we  have  been  received  with  unbounded  hospi- 


LETTER    TO    THE    SECRETARY   OP  WAR.  21 

tality.  In  reference  to  the  Blackfeet,  whose  country  we  are  now  about  entering,  I  am  assured 
by  Mr.  Culbertson,  my  special  agent  for  that  tribe,  that  they  will  receive  us  with  open  arms, 
and  that  no  trouble  need  be  apprehended.  The  necessary  precautions  will,  of  course,  be  taken  to 
secure  against  attacks  and  loss  of  animals,  but  I  can  see  no  reason  to  apprehend  the  slightest 
trouble  with  any  of  the  tribes  to  be  met  upon  the  route. 

The  enclosed  memorandum  will  give  you  a  more  full  account  of  the  details  of  the  operations, 
and  the  enclosed  sketch  of  a  railroad  route  certainly  practicable,  at  a  cost  probably  not  exceeding 
$40,000  per  mile.  It  is  certain  that  the  two  great  key  points  of  country  are  the  valley  of  Mouse 
river  and  the  region  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux.  The  Mouse  river  is  erroneously  given  on  all  the 
maps.  It  nowhere  approaches  the  Missouri  nearer  than  thirty  or  forty  miles,  and  the  pass 
over  the  Coteau  is  so  gradual,  and  the  whole  valley  is  so  open,  that  the  ascent  is  scarcely 
observed. 

I  must  not  fail  particularly  to  advert  to  Lieutenant  Donelson's  excellent  survey  of  the  Mis 
souri  river,  as  high  as  the  boat  has  been  navigated  the  present  season,  some  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  above  this  point,  and  the  numerous  collections  made  by  him  on  the  route  ;  and  to 
a  very  extended  reconnaissance  of  the  White  Earth  river,  and  the  Coteau  de  Missouri,  during 
which,  in  nine  days,  he  passed  over  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles. 

A  more  detailed  account  will  be  given  hereafter.  I  shall  from  Fort  Benton  make  report  on 
the  navigability  of  the  Missouri,  with  suggestions  for,  and  an  estimate  as  to  its  improvement. 

T.  S.  Everett,  Esq.,  the  quartermaster  and  commissary  clerk  of  the  expedition,  returns  from 
this  point  to  Washington,  and  will  call  on  you  personally,  to  give  you  information  which  I 
cannot  embody  in  a  report  at  this  time. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 

Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 

N.  B. — The  memorandum  I  regret  I  cannot  prepare  in  time,  and  shall  have  to  refer  you  to 
Mr.  Everett  for  additional  particulars  which  cannot  be  found  in  this  brief  letter. 


NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Fort  Benton,  Upper  Missouri.  September  8;  1853. 

SIR:  We  left  Fort  Union  on  the  9th  of  August,  and  pursued  the  Milk  river  line,  abandoning 
the  two  lines  contemplated  in  my  letter  of  the  8th  of  August.  The  junction  of  the  two  parties 
was  made  at  the  Big  Muddy  river,  and  resulted  from  my  inability  to  furnish  proper  transport 
ation  and  the  requisite  force  to  the  two  parties.  The  train  moved  forward  under  my  charge 
until  the  24th  of  August,  when  with  a  small  party,  including  Alexander  Culbertson,  Esq.,  the 
special  agent  among  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  and  accompanied  by  two  select  detached  parties 
under  the  respective  directions  of  Lieut.  Grover  and  Mr.  Lander,  I  started  in  advance,  and 
arrived  here  on  the  1st  instant. 

We  found  that  the  Missouri  is  much  out  of  place  on  all  the  maps,  and  the  Milk  river  still 
more  so — flowing  nearly  due  west.  Up  to  this  point,  we  have  found  the  country  entirely 
practicable  for  a  railroad.  Whichever  pass  in  the  mountains  may  be  decided  upon,  the  Milk 
River  valley  will  furnish  a  good  approach. 

Dr.  Evans,  geologist  of  the  expedition,  arrived  here  on  the  5th  instant,  having  made  a  com 
plete  and  satisfactory  examination  of  "Mauvaises  Terres,"  the  country  south  of  the  Yellow 
stone  from  the  Black  hills  to  the  Missouri  river,  and  north  of  the  Missouri,  between  the  Milk 
and  Missouri  rivers. 


22  LETTER   TO    THE    SECRETARY   OF    WAR. 

The  main  train  reached  here  on  the  6th  instant,  the  animals  in  excellent  condition,  and  the 
men  all  anxious  to  press  forward  to  the  mountains :  the  command  is  a  unit,  and  none  are 
desirous  to  turn  back. 

Already  are  my  parties  ahead,  examining  the  country  between  here  and  the  mountains. 
Lieut.  Grover,  with  a  select  party  of  seven  men,  started  on  the  5th  to  reconnoitre  Cadotte's 
Pass,  and  ascertain  its  practicability  for  wagons,  and  open  the  communication  with  Captain 
McClellan. 

Mr.  Lander,  the  estimating  engineer,  with  a  small  picked  party,  has  gone  northward  to  make 
a  thorough  examination  of  the  Marias  Pass,  and  a  reconnaissance  of  the  country  to  the  Kootenaies 
post.  This  pass  is  said,  in  consequence  of  fallen  timber,  to  be  almost  impracticable,  and  is 
here  pronounced  to  be  the  most  difficult  of  the  three  passes  to  be  examined. 

Lieut.  Mullan,  with  a  small  party,  has  gone  to  the  Flathead  camp,  on  the  Muscle  Shell  river, 
about  a  hundred  miles  south  of  this  point,  where  procuring  good  Flathead  guides,  he  will  go 
through  a  third  pass,  and  join  the  expedition  at  the  St.  Mary's  village. 

Lieut.  Donelson  will  leave  to-day  with  an  advance  party  of  twenty-five  men,  two  wagons, 
&c.,  making-a  thorough  survey  and  reconnaissance  of  the  approaches  to  Cadotte's  Pass,  and  make 
the  road  practicable  for  the  wagon  train  which  will  follow  on  the  llth  instant,  and  overtake  him 
at  the  foot  of  the  first  dividing  ridge. 

I  shall,  with  a  small  party,  start  to-day  for  the  Piegan  camp  at  the  Cypress  mountain,  some 
hundred  and  twenty  miles  northward,  passing  along  the  base  of  the  mountains.  I  shall  make 
an  examination  of  the  approaches,  and,  returning  to  this  point,  overtake  the  train  before  it 
reaches  the  St.  Mary's  village. 

No  apprehensions  are  felt  as  to  snow :  there  will  be  none  during  the  coming  month,  and  the 
first  fortnight  of  the  following,  except  on  the  mountain  peaks.  I  am  determined,  if  practicable, 
to  push  my  whole  wagon  train  through.  On  reaching  the  St.  Mary's  village,  I  shall  establish 
a  winter  post,  in  charge  of  Lieut.  Mullan,  to  operate  in  the  passes  of  the  mountains,  till  driven 
out  by  snow,  and  then  to  explore  the  lateral  valleys  and  passes,  examining  the  country  south 
ward  to  Fort  Hall,  to  connect  the  survey  with  Fremont's,  and  northward  to  the  Kootenaies  post, 
under  the  49th  parallel. 

In  addition  to  the  reconnaissance  of  Cadotte's  Pass  and  opening  the  communication  with  Capt. 
McClellan,  Lieut.  Grover  is  instructed  to  return  to  Fort  Benton,  make  a  survey  of  the  Missouri 
river  from  the  Falls  to  the  Milk  river,  connecting  with  the  survey  of  that  river  by  Lieut.  Donel 
son,  and,  returning  to  Fort  Benton,  get  up  a  dog  train  and  cross  the  mountains  in  the  month  of 
January.  The  winter  post  under  the  charge  of  Lieut.  Mullan,  besides  furnishing  the  means  of 
obtaining  valuable  meteorological  information,  is  essential  to  the  success  of  the  dog  train  of 
Lieut.  Grover. 

The  labors  of  the  survey  up  to  this  point  have  been  of  the  most  satisfactory  character,  and 
attended  with  entire  success,  besides  examining  a  large  field  of  country,  and  establishing  the 
entire  practicability  of  a  railroad.  The  Missouri  river  is  believed  to  be  navigable  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  except  when  obstructed  by  ice,  to  the  Falls  of  the  Missouri,  for  steamboats  not 
drawing  over  eighteen  inches  of  water.  Slight  obstructions  may  occur  which  can  be  removed 
at  a  comparatively  small  expense.  The  survey  of  the  Missouri  river  from  the  Falls  to  a  small 
distance  below  Milk  river,  where  Lieut.  Donelson's  labors  terminated^  will  be  taken  up  next 
month  by  Lieut.  Grover,  and  continued.  On  their  joint  labors  and  collections  a  reliable  report 
on  its  navigability  will  be  based. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


LETTER  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR.  23 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  EAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Fort  Benton,  Upper  Missouri,  September  8,  1853. 

SIR:  Dr.  Evans,  the  geologist  of  the  expedition,  will  precede  me  through  the  mountains,  and 
going  with  a  light  pack  train,  will  reach  the  mails  a  fortnight  before  me.  I  have  made  every 
exertion  to  prepare  my  accounts  in  season  for  estimates  for  Congress,  at  the  commencement  of 
its  session ;  but  having  not  yet  even  met  or  communicated  with  the  parties  west  of  the  mount 
ains,  I  can  only  make  a  conjectural  estimate.  With  great  exertion  on  my  part  to  reduce 
expense  and  to  push  through  my  operations,  I  am  obliged  to  report  that  the  allotment  made  of 
$40,000  from  the  appropriation  for  the  survey  will  be  entirely  exhausted  by  the  close  and  per 
haps  by  the  middle  of  next  month.  I  do  not  feel  justified  to  suspend  operations.  We  are  on 
the  eve  of  complete  success.  My  parties  are  now  exploring  the  passes  of  the  mountains.  My 
intercourse  with  the  Indians  has  been  of  the  most  satisfactory  character.  The  Blackfeet  In 
dians  have  sent  their  chiefs  and  braves  to  invite  me  to  their  camps ;  not  a  horse  has  been  stolen, 
not  a  man  touched  ;  no  private  article  has  been  missed.  They  have  brought  our  disabled  ani 
mals  into  camp,  and  acted  as  guides  and  guards.  These  Indians  sent  their  war  parties  to  the 
California  trail,  and  horses  believed  to  be  stolen  from  our  emigrants  by  the  Crows  are  actually 
taken  to  the  camps  of  the  formidable  Blackfeet,  under  the  49th  parallel.  To-day  I  set  out  with 
a  small  party ,  with  Mr.  Culbertson,  the  special  agent,  to  visit  a  large  Piegan  camp  at  their 
most  favorite  resort,  the  Cypress  mountains,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  north  of  this  point. 
My  object  is  twofold:  to  secure  guides  for  the  examination  of  the  Marias  Pass;  and  to  bring 
about  a  general  pacification  of  all  the  tribes  north  of  the  Missouri,  and  those  immediately  west 
of  the  mountains,  on  the  basis  of  the  treaty  of  Laramie.  I  shall,  in  a  letter  of  this  date  to  the 
Commissioner  of  the  Indian  Bureau,  recommend  a  council  to  be  held  next  year  at  some  suitable 
point,  say  Fort  Benton,  and  shall  urge  the  passage  of  an  appropriation  of  money  to  defray  the 
expenses.  I  do  not  doubt  that  complete  success  will  attend  it,  and  that  hereafter  a  single  man 
will  be  able  to  go  unmolested  through  these  vast  plains. 

In  view  of  the  great  results  which  I  am  of  opinion  this  expedition  is  on  the  eve  of  accom 
plishing,  I  do  not  feel  that  I  would  fulfil  the  reasonable  expectations  of  the  department  by  sus 
pending  operations.  It  seems  to  me  my  highest  obligation  is  to  continue  vigorously  the  work 
placed  in  my  charge,  and  to  get  results  which  will  justify  the  expenditure  of  means.  Believing 
that  the  department  and  Congress  will  sanction  this  course,  I  shall  vigorously  pursue  the  work, 
reducing  the  force  on  the  approach  of  winter  to  the  smallest  amount  compatible  with  an  efficient 
winter  organization,  and  one  which  in  the  spring  can  at  a  moment  be  increased  for  a  full  re 
sumption  of  the  work.  This  I  will  earnestly  recommend.  An  instrumental  survey  should  be 
made  of  the  best  mountain  passess,  both  of  the  Rocky  mountain  and  Cascade  range.  The  inter 
mediate  lines  should  be  reviewed.  The  astronomical,  magnetic,  and  meteorological  observations 
should  be  continued.  A  large  expenditure  has  been  made;  trained  men  are  in  the  field,  and  all 
the  appliances  are  at  hand.  I  shall  not  suspend  the  work  till  I  receive  the  instructions  of  the 
department  to  this  effect. 

Estimate  for  continuing  the  work  to  the  close  of  the  present  fiscal  year  is,  monthly,  as  follows: 

October  15  to  30,  1853 $2,^500 

November,  1853 5,000 

December,  1853 3,000 

January,  1854 3,000 

February,   1854 3,000 

March,  1854 3,000 

April,  1854 3,000 

May,  1854 3,500 

June,  1854 4,000 

30,000 


24          LETTER  FROM  CAPTAIN  MCCLELLAN  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 

Estimate  for  fiscal  year  ending  June  30,  1855,  $40,000. 

In  addition  to  the  above,  I  am  satisfied  that  the  Missouri  can  be  navigated  by  steamers  to 
the  falls  above  this  place,  and  I  would  recommend  an  appropriation  of  $10,000  to  test  the  ques 
tion  next  year.  The  Indian  Bureau  needs  a  steamer  exclusively  for  its  own  use. 

RECAPITULATION. 

For  continuing  the  exploration  and  survey  of  a  route  for  a  railroad  from  the  headwaters  of 
the  Mississippi  to  Puget  sound,  including  the  thorough  examination  of  the  passes  of  the  mount 
ains  during  the  winter,  and  including  a  steamer  to  determine  the  practicability  of  navigating 
the  Missouri  river  to  the  falls,  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30,  1854,  $40,000. 

For  continuing  the  survey  of  a  route  of  a  railroad  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  to 
Puget  sound,  including  an  instrumental  survey  of  the  best  mountain  passes,  for  the  fiscal  year 
ending  June  30,  1855,  $40,000. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration  and  Survey. 

Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Fort  Benton,  Upper  Missouri,  September  8,  1853. 

SIR:  I  have  to  request  that  $10,000  still  remaining  in  the  treasury,  of  the  sum  allotted  to 
me  from  the  appropriation  for  the  survey  of  the  several  routes  for  a  railroad  from  the  Missis 
sippi  river  to  the  Pacific,  be  drawn  out  and  placed  on  deposit,  subject  to  my  order,  with  the 
Treasurer  of  the  United  States. 

In  a  report  of  this  date,  I  have  made  estimates  for  continuing  the  survey  the  present  year, 
and  have  recommended  that  an  appropriation  of  $40,000  be  asked  of  Congress.  I  will  earn 
estly  request  that,  from  existing  appropriations  legitimately  applicable  to  such  a  purpose,  a 
portion  of  this  sum  be  drawn  out  and  placed  on  deposit  with  the  Treasurer  of  the  United  States, 
subject  to  my  order,  and  that  I  be  advised  of  the  action  of  the  department  at  the  earliest  prac 
ticable  period.  Communications  should  be  sent  tp  me  at  Olympia,  Washington  Territory. 

I  regret  I  cannot  go  into  more  details  at  this  time.  But  at  this  moment  I  feel  that  I  must  throw 
my  energies  into  the  almost  herculean  task  before  me,  and  send  in  careful  estimates  on  reaching 
Puget  sound. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


CAMP  AT  KETETAS,  ON  YAKIMA  RIVER, 

September  18,  1853. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  report  that,  in  consequence  of  the  great  detentions  caused  by  the 
miserable  quality  of  the  animals  and  pack-saddles  with  which  I  was  provided,  and  the  difficult 
nature  of  the  country  through  which  we  have  passed,  I  was  unable  to  reach  the  valley  of  the 
Wenass  (a  branch  of  the  Yakima)  until  August  20.  Hearing,  from  what  seemed  good 
authority,  that  there  were  numbers  of  government  mules  at  Steilacoom,  and  that  the  trip  could 
be  made  in  five  days,  I  at  once  sent  in  my  pack-horses  to  be  exchanged,  and  to  bring  out 
provisions  to  enable  me  to  start  from  here  with  three  months'  supplies ;  intending  to  occupy 
myself,  in  the  meanwhile,  in  examining  the  passes  near  Regnier.  On  my  return  from  the 


LETTER  FROM  CAPTAIN  MCCLELLAN  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OP  WAR.          25 

Nahchess  Pass,  I  received  an  express  from  Lieutenant  Hodges,  informing  me  that  most  of  his 
horses  had  given  out,  and  that  there  were  no  spare  mules  at  Steilacoom.  I  therefore  at  once 
determined  to  reduce  the  size  of  the  party,  and  on  the  next  day  sent  in  the  escort  and  packers 
enough  to  reduce  the  number  from  sixty-eight  to  about  thirty,  for  which  number  I  can  carry 
the  requisite  supplies  on  mules.  The  Nahchess  Pass  is  at  the  head  of  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  (the  south  fork  of  the  Yakima,)  about  fifteen  miles  north  of  Kegnier.  The  lowest  point 
of  the  divide  is  4,966  feet  above  Vancouver;  the  divide  quite  narrow,  the  ascent  in  the  upper 
eight  miles  of  the  valley  1,612  feet.  The  valley  is  frequently  reduced  to  a  mere  canon,  wholly 
occupied  by  the  bed  of  the  stream.  Judging  from  the  snow-marks  on  the  trees,  and  information 
received  from  the  Indians,  the  snow  accumulates  to  great  depths  in  the  narrow  valleys — I 
should  suppose  at  least  twenty  feet — and  upon  the  mountains  some  five  to  six  feet. 

Lieutenant  Hodges  reports  the  valley  on  the  west  side  as  sloping  with  great  rapidity  for 
about  twenty  miles  from  the  summit,  and  as  presenting  no  great  difficulties  thence  to  the 
sound.  The  pass  at  the  head  of  the  main  Yakima,  (the  Snoqualme  Pass)  some  twenty  miles 
north  of  the  Nahchess  Pass,  is  but  3,544  feet  above  Vancouver.  On  the  lowest  point  of  the 
summit  is  a  shallow  lake,  about  two  hundred  yards  long,  from  which  the  water  runs  both 
ways.  From  this  lake  to  the  west  the  descent  is  exceedingly  rapid.  Towards  the  east  the 
descent  in  the  distance  of  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  is  five  hundred  and  thirty  feet  to 
another  lake  about  half  a  mile  long ;  from  this  to  the  large  lake  in  which  this  river  heads — a 
distance  of  about  two  miles  in  a  direct  line — the  descent  is  five  hundred  and  ninety-nine  feet. 
From  this  last  lake  (Kitchelus)  there  is  no  difficulty  in  the  way  of  the  construction  of  a  road  of 
any  kind ;  the  valley  of  the  river  being  generally  wide  and  level,  but  covered  in  the  upper  part 
by  a  dense  growth  of  timber.  The  snow  must  accumulate  to  about  the  same  extent  as  in  the 
other  pass ;  but  the  valley  on  the  east  slope  being  more  open,  the  obstruction  would  be  much 
less  on  this  route.  Being  exceedingly  pressed  for  time,  I  was  unable  to  proceed  more  than  a 
few  miles  beyond  the  divide  in  the  Snoqualme  Pass ;  as  far  as  I  went  the  valley  was  narrow 
and  the  descent  steep.  The  Indians  say  that,  at  the  distance  of  about  twenty-five  miles  from 
the  divide,  the  stream  enters  a  lake,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  a  cascade  some  sixty  feet  in  height. 
Lieutenant  Hodges  informs  me  that  the  officers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at  Nisqually  are 
confident  that  the  western  portion  of  this  pass  is  better  than  the  corresponding  portion  of  the 
Nahchess  Pass.  But  the  result  of  my  short  experience  in  this  country  has  been,  that  not  the 
slightest  faith  or  confidence  is  to  be  placed  in  information  derived  from  the  employes  of  the 
company,  or  from  the  inhabitants  of  the  Territory :  in  every  instance  when  I  have  acted  upon 
information  thus  obtained,  I  have  been  altogether  deceived  and  misled.  It  will,  therefore,  be 
impossible  to  make  any  accurate  comparison  of  the  relative  advantages  of  the  west  slopes  of 
these  passes  until  we  have  examined  the  whole  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass  ourselves.  Near  St. 
Helens  the  mountains  are  by  no  means  so  large  and  rugged  as  near  Mount  Kegnier,  yet  there 
does  not  appear  to  be  so  well  marked  and  defined  a  pass.  The  lowest  point  over  which  our 
trail  passed  in  that  vicinity  was  3,100  feet  above  Vancouver;  yet,  judging  from  the  appearance 
of  the  country  near  St.  Helens,  I  think  there  would  be  great  difficulty  in  passing  by  the  mount 
ain.  In  the  portion  of  the  range  near  Kegnier  the  mountains  are  so  thickly  timbered  that  it 
is  very  difficult  to  obtain  any  extensive  view,  and  they  are  so  rough  as  to  make  it  exceedingly 
difficult  to  explore  them  even  on  foot.  I  have  examined  the  divides  on  foot,  and,  from  the  short 
time  at  my  disposal,  have  been  unable  to  extend  the  examination  as  far  as  would  be  desirable. 

Following  the  west  slope  of  the  mountains  from  Vancouver  to  the  Cathlapoot'l  river,  the 
country  is  very  densely  timbered,  and  required  constant  cutting  on  the  trail.  With  the  exception 
of  a  few  small  tracts,  the  soil  is  poor.  In  the  valley  of  the  Cathlapoot'l,  which  we  followed 
for  four  days,  the  country  is  quite  rough  and  thickly  timbered — the  soil  miserable,  and  no  grass. 
On  the  east  slopes,  near  Mount  Adams,  the  country  is  generally  covered  by  open  pine 
woods,  with  a  coarse  grass,  the  soil  not  good  enough  to  induce  settlements.  The  last  forty-five 
miles  of  the  trail  have  been  over  barren  sage  plains,  mostly  without  grass,  always  without 


26  LETTER   TO    THE   SECRETARY   OF   WAR. 

timber,  and  very  stony:  in  some  of  the  valleys  pretty  good  bunch-grass  is  found.  The  soil  of 
the  valleys  of  the  Yakima  and  its  branches,  though  very  limited  in  extent,  is  good  enough  to 
make  tolerable  farms,  if  irrigated.  The  Indians  raise  excellent  potatoes,  but  the  cold  nights 
(the  thermometer  frequently  standing  below  32°  at  sunrise)  and  the  shortness  of  the  season, 
would  be  great  obstacles  in  the  way  of  cultivation.  We  have  found  gold  in  this  valley,  but  no 
deposit  sufficiently  rich  to  justify  working.  The  Indians  are  thus  far  perfectly  friendly.  I 
have  informed  the  chiefs  of  the  probable  passage  of  immigrants  through  their  country,  and  of 
Governor  Stevens's  approach.  They  have  promised  to  be  friendly  to  the  immigrants,  and  extend 
every  assistance  to  them  ;  to  prevent  depredations  on  the  part  of  their  own  people,  and  to  refer 
any  complaints  they  may  have  against  the  immigrants  to  the  Governor  on  his  arrival ;  but  on  no 
account  to  retaliate,  as  I  have  told  them  that  would  not  for  a  moment  be  allowed. 

I  shall  leave  this  place  to-morrow  for  the  north,  and  will  endeavor  to  reach  Fort  Colville 
from  Mount  Baker. 

While  in  the  mountains  myself,  I  sent  one  small  party  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima  and 
another  to  the  Dalles.  The  Yakima  valley  below  this  is  wide,  often  destitute  of  grass,  no  tim 
ber  of  any  consequence,  and  a  limited  extent  of  soil  that  by  irrigation  could  be  made  moderately 
productive.  On  the  trail  to  the  Dalles  the  country  is  everywhere  stony,  barren,  and  worthless. 
The  valley  of  the  Columbia,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima,  is  a  vast  sage  desert.  I  shall 
strike  it  again  somewhat  farther  north.  On  the  road  to  Steilacoom,  after  having  passed  the 
mountains,  there  are  a  few  limited  tracts  of  good  land ;  that  on  the  sound,  and  for  some  miles 
back,  is  a  mere  mass  of  gravel — perfectly  worthless. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

GEOKGE  B.  McCLELLAN, 
Lieut.  Eng.  and  Brevet  Copt.  U.  8.  A.,  Commanding  Expedition. 

Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


NORTHERN  PACIFIC  KAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Fort  Benton,  September  18,  1853. 

SIR:  Since  my  letters  of  the  8th  instant,  transmitted  by  Dr.  Evans,  the  geologist  of  the 
expedition,  very  important  changes  have  been  made  in  the  plan  of  continuing  the  survey  west 
ward,  in  consequence  of  the  information  brought  by  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Saxton. 

I  was  on  my  way  to  the  Piegan  camps  to  secure  guides  for  the  survey  of  the  Marias  Pass,  and 
to  provide  for  permanent  relations  of  peace  with  the  Blackfeet,  when  Lieutenant  Grover's 
express  overtook  me,  sixty-five  miles  from  this  point,  with  information  that  he  met  Lieutenant 
Saxton  just  near  the  dividing  ridge;  that  the  road  passed  over  by  Lieutenant  Saxton  was  in 
many  places,  in  consequence  of  timber,  impracticable  for  wagons,  and  that  he  would  be  at  Fort 
Benton  one  day  after  the  express,  with  much  valuable  information  as  to  the  routes  west  of  the 
mountains.  I  immediately  determined  to  return,  sending  forward  Mr.  Stanley,  the  artist  of  the 
expedition,  with  Hammel,  the  interpreter,  and  three  voyageurs,  to  see  the  Indians  and  invite 
them  to  Fort  Benton. 

On  my  return,  which  was  accomplished  in  less  than  twenty-five  hours,  I  placed  Mr.  Lander's 
party  in  camp  on  the  Marias  river,  where  it  would  be  in  position  either  to  move  on  to*  the 
exploration  of  the  Marias,  or  join,  by  running  a  side  line,  the  main  party  as  it  entered  Cadotte's 
Pass. 

Lieutenant  Donelson  having  informed  me,  by  the  express  bringing  Lieutenant  Grover's  letter, 
that  he  should  the  next  day  move  on  with  the  whole  party,  in  pursuance  of  my  instructions,  I 
despatched  early  in  the  morning  our  Indian  guide,  to  direct  him  to  move  forward  the  advance 
party,  that  delay  might  not  occur  in  the  survey  of  the  country,  but  to  keep  the  supply  train  in 
camp  till  my  arrival,  and  on  my  arrival  to  meet  me  with  Lieutenant  Saxton  for  consultation. 


LETTER   TO    THE   SECRETARY   OP   WAR.  27 

Reserving  to  a  subsequent  portion  of  this  report  some  account  of  Lieutenant  Saxton's  admira 
ble  reconnaissance,  one  made  under  many  difficulties,  it  will  be  sufficient  for  me  to  state  that 
our  mutual  congratulations  were  of  the  most  cordial  character.  He  left  Washington  in  April 
with  instructions  to  organize  a  supply  train  on  the  Columbia,  to  establish  a  depot  of  animals 
and  provisions  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  and,  passing  over  the  Blackfeet  trail,  to  meet  me  at 
Fort  Benton. 

It  was  in  Washington  determined  to  direct  our  first  exploration  on  this  pass.  As  we 
approached  it  from  this  side  of  the  mountains,  we  called  it  Cadotte's  Pass,  from  Cadotte,  one  of 
our  guides,  who  passed  over  it  two  years  since.  My  first  thought,  on  reaching  Fort  Benton,  was 
to  send  forward  Lieutenant  drover  to  ascertain  whether  he  had  reached  St.  Mary's,  or  was  on 
liis  way  to  this  point.  I  point  to  the  circumstance  of  their  actual  meeting  within  three  miles 
of  the  dividing  ridge,  as  some  evidence  of  the  goodness  of  the  pass,  and  how  well  it  was  under 
stood  in  the  first  instructions. 

Cadotte's  Pass  is,  by  the  barometer  measurements  of  Lieutenant  Saxton,  nearly  3,000  feet 
below  the  South  Pass,,  and  is  a  much  better  route  both  in  summer  and  in  winter.  It  presents 
not  the  slightest  difficulty  to  the  passage  of  a  railroad. 

A  copy  of  my  Order  No.  18,  published  on  Lieutenant  Saxton's  arrival,  shows  the  apprecia 
tion  which  we  have  of  his  labors. 

I  learned  from  Lieutenant  Saxton  that  the  passes  in  the  Bitter  Hoot  and  Cascade  ranges  were 
more  difficult  than  those  in  the  Kocky  mountains;  that  they  could  not  be  crossed  later  than 
October,  and  that  the  greatest  despatch  must  be  used  to  reach  the  Pacific  before  the  setting  in 
of  winter.  I  also  learned  that  Captain  McClellan  was  probably  still  struggling  in  the  passes 
of  the  Cascade  range,  north  of  the  Columbia,  to  ascertain  the  most  practicable  one,  and  that 
he  could  not  be  expected  to  push  his  line  east  of  the  Columbia  the  present  season. 

My  previous  arrangements  had  been  based  on  the  winter  not  setting  in  till  the  middle  or  last 
of  November,  and  on  having  before  me  at  least  a  working  season  of  eight  weeks.  I  found  it 
to  be  reduced,  at  the  very  outside,  to  six,  and  as  regards  the  Bitter  Root  range,  where  snows 
fall  on  the  20th,  and  sometimes  as  early  as  the  10th  of  October,  to  five  weeks.  The  plateau 
between  the  Milk  and  the  Missouri  rivers  rises  gently,  and  is,  in  almost  every  direction,  prac 
ticable  for  a  railroad. 

The  St.  Mary's  valley  connects  with  other  valleys  running  both  north  and  south  at  the  base 
of  the  mountains,  an  aggregate  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  Thus  Cadotte's  Pass 
connects  all  the  railroad  lines  north  of  the  Missouri  with  all  the  lines  from  the  Columbia  to 
Puget  sound.  Accordingly  I  determined  to  leave  my  wagons  at  this  point,  to  resort  entirely 
to  packs  to  send  my  whole  force  through  Cadotte's  Pass  with  the  greatest  despatch,  and  direct 
them  on  several  routes  westward  through  the  Bitter  Boot  and  Cascade  ranges  to  ascertain  the 
best  pass,  and  to  connect  with  Captain  McClellan's  work,  and  thus  endeavor  to  collect  the 
present  season  the  data  to  establish  the  practicability  of  a  railroad  from  the  headwaters  of  the 
Mississippi  to  Puget  sound. 

The  survey  of  the  Marias  Pass  was  deferred,  and  Mr.  Lander,  under  orders  for  this  service, 
was  directed  to  report  to  Lieutenant  Donelson,  who  was,  by  my  orders  of  the  14th  instant,  a 
copy  of  which  I  herewith  enclose,  continued  in  charge  of  the  main  party  operating  in  Cadotte's 
Pass.  It  was  with  great  reluctance  I  abandoned  the  survey  of  the  Marias  Pass.  I  am  sanguine 
that  it  will  prove  the  best  pass,  and  it  more  naturally  connects  with  the  line  of  Clark's  fork  of 
the  Columbia  river.  The  great  obstacle  to  the  survey  of  all  these  passes,  and  especially  the 
Marias  Pass,  is  in  the  immense  forests  which  in  all  directions  obstruct  the  way.  The  super 
abundance  of  nature  has  to  be  done  away  with  in  a  measure  before  the  full  measure  of  her  gifts 
can  be  known.  The  Indians  pursue  the  best  trails  they  can  find ;  but  they  have  not  axes  to  hew 
their  way,  nor,  finding  one  pass  practicable,  have  they  the  patience  to  search  for  better  ones. 

To  reach  the  valley  of  Clark's  fork,  a  road  from  Cadotte's  Pass  must  make  a  considerable 
deflection  to  the  north,  and  it  is  believed  that  in  no  other  direction  can  a  road  be  run  to  the 


28  LETTER   TO    THE   SECRETARY   OF    WAR. 

Pacific,  in  consequence  of  the  impracticable  character  of  that  portion  of  the  Bitter  Boot  ranges 
of  mountain  lying  immediately  west  of  the  St.  Mary's  valley.  Should,  however,  a  good  pass 
be  found  leading  to  the  Little  Salmon  fork  of  Snake  river,  and  should  this  route  to  the  Pacific 
prove  more  feasible  than  more  northern  routes,  then  Cadotte's  Pass  will  more  naturally  lead  to 
it,  and  to  the  preferable  one.  Dr.  Evans's  survey  shows  that  a  railroad  line  can  be  run  on 
nearly  a  straight  course  from  the  mouth  of  Milk  river,  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri,  to  the 
falls,  and  which,  in  connexion  with  a  good  pass  in  the  Bitter  Root  range  west  of  St.  Mary's, 
would  make  the  route  by  Cadotte's  Pass,  the  Little  Salmon,  or  Kooskooskia  river,  not  only  a 
remarkably  direct  route,  but  one  that,  by  branches  to  Puget  sound,  to  the  Willamette  valley  of 
Oregon,  and  even  to  California,  would  afford  great  facilities  to  emigrants  to  both  Territories, 
and  be  in  connection  with  the  great  port  of  the  Pacific.  I  shall  give  as  much  attention  as 
practicable  to  the  passes  in  this  direction,  though  they  are  represented  to  me  as  entirely 
impracticable. 

I  have  established  at  this  place  a  meteorological  and  supply  post,  under  the  charge  of  Mr. 
Doty,  with  Corporal  Kouster,  of  the  dragoon  detachment,  to  assist  in  charge  of  property; 
Private  Lynt,  of  the  sappers  and  miners,  to  assist  in  observations ;  and  Hugh  Robie,  laborer 
and  cook.  Mr.  Doty  has  rendered  service  on  the  route  in  the  astronomical  and  magnetic  obser 
vations,  having  been  placed  in  charge  of  the  latter  observations  a  few  days  since.  He  is 
exceedingly  well  qualified  for  his  duties,  well  educated,  of  decided  character,  of  experience  as 
a  woodman,  a  hunter,  and  in  intercourse  with  Indians.  He  will  devote  himself  to  the  mag 
netic  and  meteorological  observations,  to  getting  in  the  topography  to  the  base  and  into  the 
passes  of  the  mountains,  and  to  maintaining  the  present  friendly  feelings  of  the  Blackfeet 
Indians.  A  copy  of  his  instructions  is  herewith  enclosed. 

From  the  post  established  at  St.  Mary's,  as  announced  in  my  letter  of  the  8th  instant,  I 
expect  the  most  valuable  results,  not  only  as  illustrating  the  meteorology  of  the  region  west  of 
the  mountains,  but  in  knowledge  of  the  several  passes  by  actual  survey  made  before  operations 
are  resumed  in  the  spring. 

Lieutenant  Saxton  left  New  York  on  the  5th  of  May,  and,  taking  the  Isthmus  route,  arrived 
in  San  Francisco  on  the  1st  of  June.  During  the  time  he  remained,  delayed  by  procuring  an 
outfit  for  his  journey  to  the  Flathead  village,  intelligent  gentlemen  pronounced  his  undertaking 
difficult,  and  iricleed  impracticable,  from  the  hostility  of  the  Indians,  and  the  character  of  the 
country.  He  had  intended  to  accomplish  his  labors  with  a  small  party  of  from  four  to  six  men. 
Not  able  to  discourage  him,  they  advised  him  to  enlarge  his  force,  and  be  attended  with  an 
escort.  On  the  27th  of  June  he  reached  the  Columbia  barracks,  and  proceeded  to  organize  his 
party  and  prepare  his  train.  The  most  experienced  and  intelligent  men  there,  including  Gov 
ernor  P.  S.  Ogden,  chief  factor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  discouraged  his  efforts,  and 
predicted  his  entire  failure  of  getting  through  this  season  in  consequence  of  the  bad  country 
towards  the  mountains.  Upon  the  urgent  persuasion  of  these  gentlemen,  Lieutenant  Saxton 
resolved,  in  carrying  out  his  instructions,  to  take  a  larger  party  than  originally  contemplated. 

On  the  1st  of  July  Lieutenant  Saxton  sent  forward  Lieutenant  Arnold,  3d  artillery,  with  the 
greater  portion  of  the  men  and  provisions  to  the  Dalles,  remaining  at  Columbia  barracks  to 
complete  his  arrangements.  On  the  18th  of  July  the  organization  of  this  party  was  perfected, 
and  he  started  for  the  mountains,  his  force  consisting  of  Lieutenant  Saxton,  4th  artillery,  in 
command;  Lieutenant  Richard  Arnold,  3d  artillery,  astronomer;  Mr.  Lyman  Arnold,  his 
assistant;  Lieutenant  Macfeely  and  eighteen  soldiers,  of  the  4th  infantry,  as  an  escort;  Mr.  D. 
S.  Hoyt,  assistant  quartermaster's  department;  one  packmaster,  one  assistant  paokmaster, 
twenty-three  packers,  and  two  herders. 

Lieutenant  Saxton  encountered  many  obstacles  on  his  march  which  were  calculated  to  deter 
a  man  of  less  energy  and  force  of  character.  The  whole  of  one  day  he  was  crossing  a  sandy 
desert,  the  sand  at  a  temperature  of  150°  Fahrenheit.  On  reaching  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake, 
the  supplies  were  all  carried  across  in  canoes,  and,  when  over,  they  discovered  that  the  prairie 


LETTER   TO   THE   SECRETARY   OF   WAR.  29 

had  been  burnt  for  a  great  distance.  The  crossing  of  the  burnt  prairie  and  timber  occupied  four 
days,  during  which  Lieutenant  Saxton  lost  several  of  his  horses,  and  every  man  advised  his 
return.  False  reports  as  to  the  intention  of  the  expedition  had  been  circulated  among  the 
Indian  tribes  through  whose  country  Lieutenant  Saxton  had  to  pass.  They  manifested  much 
suspicion;  but  meeting  Lieutenant  Saxton,  who  had  a  talk  with  them,  their  doubts  gradually 
vanished,  and  they  became  steadfast  friends.  He  told  them  that  we  were  their  friends,  that 
our  objects  were  peaceable,  and  that  among  the  highest  of  our  duties  was  that  of  bearing  the 
friendly  messages  of  the  Great  Father  at  Washington  to  his  children,  and,  attesting  his  kindly 
feelings  by  a  few  presents,  he  soon  established  friendly  relations. 

From  this  time  to  reaching  the  St.  Mary's  village,  he  found  them  ever  willing  to  assist  him. 
At  each  stream  crossed,  they  were  present  with  their  canoes ;  and  one  instance  occurred  where, 
after  assisting  Lieutenant  Saxton' s  party  over,  they  sent  on  to  him,  requesting  him  to  fix  the 
rate  they  should  hereafter  receive  for  ferrying  over  other  white  men. 

They  reached  the  St.  Mary's  village  on  the  28th  of  August,  after  encountering  such  obstacles 
as  are  common  to  mountainous  countries,  obliged  to  cut  their  way  through  dense  forests  of 
mountain  timber. 

At  this  point  Lieutenant  Saxton  placed  his  provisions  in  depot,  leaving  them  in  charge  of 
Lieutenant  Arnold  and  four  men ;  sent  Lieutenant  Macfeely,  with  all  the  soldiers  and  quarter 
master's  employes  whose  services  could  be  dispensed  with,  back  to  Vancouver,  by  another  route ; 
and,  with  Mr.  Hoyt,  his  assistant,  eight  soldiers,  eight  packers,  and  an  Indian  guide,  came 
across  the  Eocky  mountains  by  the  Blackfeet  Pass,  and  joined  me  at  Fort  Benton.  It  is  proper 
here  to  add,  that  much  dread  appeared  to  exist  in  regard  to  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  and  Lieu 
tenant  Saxton's  guide,  Antoine,  an  excellent  man,  would  not  come  farther  than  the  St. 
Mary's  village  unless  the  party  numbered  twenty  men.  It  was  his  intention  to  bring  but 
four  men  across  the  mountain  to  Fort  Benton,  but  he  was  thus  compelled  to  bring  an  escort. 

Lieutenant  Saxton  followed  up  the  Columbia  as  far  as  Wallah- Wallah ;  crossed  Lewis  fork  of 
the  Columbia  forty  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  latter  stream  ;  thence  crossed  the  Spokane 
to  Clark's  fork;  crossing  Clark's  fork  near  the  outlet  of  Kalispel  lake,  continued  along  the 
northen  shore  of  Lake  Kalispel,  and  up  the  valley  of  Saint  Mary's  fork  of  the  Bitter  Boot  to 
the  Flathead  village. 

Lieutenant  Saxton  reports  the  route  he  followed  from  the  Dalles  to  this  place  as  practicable 
for  a  railroad,  the  Kocky  mountains  offering  no  obstacle  to  its  construction,  and  furnishing 
an  almost  inexhaustible  supply  of  timber  and  other  building  materials.  At  the  place  where  he 
crossed,  the  elevation  is  nearly  three  thousand  feet  less  than  the  South  Pass. 

He  found  the  country  east  of  Kalispel  lake  deserted  by  the  Indians,  from  fear  of  the  Black- 
feet.  The  universal  opinion  in  regard  to  the  viciousness  and  disposition  to  plunder  of  these 
Indians,  keeps  the  whole  country  in  terror  during  the  summer  season.  The  two  Messrs.  Owen, 
who  for  several  years  have  been  engaged  in  raising  stock  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  were  met 
on  their  way  to  the  Pacific  coast,  deeming  it  no  longer  safe  to  remain. 

As  good  a  map  and  barometric  profile  of  the  route  as  their  rapid  march  and  their  limited 
means  would  allow,  was  made  by  Lieutenant  Saxton's  party. 

I  might  add  that  the  establishment  of  a  depot  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  with  plenty  of  fat 
oxen,  and  the  depot  for  which  Lieutenant  Saxton  made  especial  provision  at  the  head  of  Pend 
d'Oreille  lake,  where  Governor  P.  S.  Ogden  has  had  collected  an  abundance  of  cattle  for  our 
supply,  are  facts  the  knowledge  of  which  enables  us  to  work  much  later,  and  secures  us  much 
from  providing  a  great  amount  of  transportation. 

He  has,  in  addition  to  the  supply  of  provisions,  left  at  St.  Mary's  sixty-three  animals,  which 
on  our  arrival  will  be  in  fine  condition.  My  train  moved  forward  with  strong  animals,  fit  for 
the  service,  after  leaving  at  this  post  some  nineteen  feeble  animals,  which  could  not  probably 
have  stood  the  journey  across  the  mountains,  but  should  the  survey  be  continued  another  year, 
will  then  be  in  good  condition. 


30  LETTER  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 

On  the  junction  of  Lieutenants  Donelson  and  Mullein's  parties  with  the  party  at  St.  Mary's, 
leaving  at  that  post  for  the  winter  the  animals  unahle  to  proceed,  I  shall  have  sufficient  trans 
portation  to  mount  well  every  member  of  the  survey,  and  with  good  packs  be  able  to  push  for 
ward,  making  forced  marches  of  thirty-five  and  forty  miles  per  day,  if  the  season  compels  us 
to  move  so  rapidly. 

The  unexpected  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Saxton  with  the  information  he  has  brought,  changes, 
in  several  respects,  my  plans  announced  in  letters  written  at  this  point  on  the  8th  of  September, 
and  sent  forward  by  Dr.  Evans,  who  left  on  the  10th  with  packs  for  Oregon,  and  will  connect 
with  the  mails  to  the  Atlantic  States  some  fortnight  earlier  than  myself.  I  cannot  do  better  at 
this  time  than  enclose  those  copies,  and  make  them  part  of  this  letter.  I  apprehend,  however, 
that  this  will  reach  you  before  they  possibly  can. 

In  those  letters  I  have  briefly  referred  to  our  progress  up  to  this  point,  and  have  frankly 
given  a  statement  of  the  balance  of  the  allotment  of  the  appropriation  for  the  survey  intrusted 
to  my  charge.  By  the  middle  of  October  that  will  have  been  exhausted,  and  I  have  sent  my 
estimates  of  what  I  regard  actually  necessary  to  continue  the  survey.  I  must  refer  you  to  Lieu 
tenant  Saxton  in  person  for  much  valuable  information  in  connexion  with  our  work — its  progress, 
and  its  certainty  of  success.  I  must  earnestly  recommend  the  appropriation,  at  an  early  date 
in  the  session,  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars,  to  continue  all  the  surveys  for  the 
fiscal  year  ending  June  30,  1854 ;  and,  should  they  make  such  appropriation,  forty  thousand 
as  the  allotment  for  this  survey.  The  information  brought  by  Lieutenant  Saxton  is  of  so  im 
portant  a  character  that  I  have  thought  it  advisable  to  send  him  to  Washington  city  to  prepare 
his  report,  and  communicate  in  person  with  the  departments.  He  will  be  accompanied  by  Mr. 
D.  S.  Hoyt,  his  assistant  in  the  quartermaster's  department,  and  Sergeant  Collins,  of  the 
detachment  of  sappers  and  miners,  who  will  assist  him  in  his  office  work. 

I  have  concluded  to  send  back  from  this  point  four  non-commissioned  officers  and  thirteen 
dragoons,  whose  services  are  no  longer  required,  and  they  have  been  placed  in  charge  of  Lieu 
tenant  Saxton.  Four  discharged  quartermaster's  employes,  who  crossed  the  mountains  with 
him,  and  three  of  my  party  who  desired  to  be  relieved  from  duty  at  this  place,  also  go  down 
the  river  to  St.  Louis.  Sergeant  Collins,  who  has  been  connected  with  the  main  party,  has 
been  unable  to  cross  the  mountains,  in  consequence  of  a  severe  attack  of  dysentery.  Too  much 
cannot  be  said  in  commendation  of  his  merits  since  his  connexion  with  the  party.  Lieutenant, 
Donelson,  in  his  report  of  the  survey  of  the  Missouri,  notices  his  efficient  service,  and  since  his 
connexion  with  the  main  party  as  assistant  topographer  he  has  performed  his  duties  admi 
rably. 

Of  Mr.  D.  S.  Hoyt,  connected  with  Lieutenant  Saxton  as  his  assistant,  I  would  merely  say, 
that  Lieutenant  Saxton  speaks  of  his  labors  as  being  in  the  highest  degree  satisfactory.  He 
and  Sergeant  Collins  are  detailed  for  office  duty  with  Lieutenant  Saxton  in  assisting  in  the  pre 
paration  of  his-report,  and  in  resuming  the  survey  next  year.  The  following  is  a  statement  of 
the  results  already  accomplished,  those  which  will  be  gained  during  the  remainder  of  the  season 
and  in  the  winter,  and  those  which  may  be  expected  from  the  continuance  of  the  survey,  from 
the  resumption  of  operations  in  the  spring  to  the  close  of  the  next  fiscal  year. 

RESULTS   ALREADY   ACCOMPLISHED. 

1.  A  line  drawn  from  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia  to  the  head  of  navigation  of  the  Missis 
sippi. 

2.  The  ascertainment  that  Cadotte's  Pass,  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  is  nearly  3,000  feet  below 
the  South  Pass,  and  is  a  much  better  route,  both  in  summer  and  in  winter. 

3.  That  this  pass  connects  by  the  plateau  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri  rivers,  rising  gently 
to  the  mountains  west  from  Fort  Benton,  and  by  the  valley  of  the  St.  Mary's  and  other  valleys, 
extending  for  150  miles  alojjg  the  western  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  with  the  several  known 


LETTER  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR.  31 

practicable  lines  from  the  Mississippi  river  north  of  the  Missouri,  and  with  at  least  one  prac 
ticable  route  to  the  Columbia. 

4.  That  the  routes  north  of  the  Missouri  will  connect  with  the  Missouri  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone,  and  at  the  falls  by  easily  constructed  and  short  spur  roads. 

5.  That  the  Missouri  is  navigable  at  all  seasons,  when  not  obstructed  by  ice,  for  some  distance 
above  Fort  Union,  and  is  believed  to  be  navigable  to  the  falls  for  steamers  drawing  18  inches 
of  water. 

6.  That  east  of  the  Yellowstone,  all  the  roads  must  pass  over  the  broad  plateau  of  the  Bois 
de  Sioux  and  the  valley  of  the  Mouse  river. 

Y.  That  roads  may  be  run  over  the  Bois  de  Sioux  from  several  points  on  the  Mississippi. 

8.  That  at  least  two  good  routes  can  connect  the  Bois  de  Sioux  with  the  Mouse  River  valley — 
one  in  the  direction  of  Dead  Colt  Hillock,  on  the  general  route  pursued  by  Lieutenant  Grover, 
and  one  on  the  general  route  pursued  by  the  main  party  crossing  the  Cheyenne  river.     These 
routes  meet  on  the  entrance  into  the  Mouse  River  valley. 

9.  That  the  Milk  river  route  affords  extraordinary  facilities  for  a  railroad  connecting  with 
all  the  passes,  and  that  a  route  can  be  pursued  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri  rivers,  running 
near  Fort  Benton  and  the  falls,  and  naturally  connecting  with  Cadotte's  Pass. 

10.  That  a  natural  valley,  called  the  Grand  Coulee,  connecting  the  routes  between  the  mouth 
of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  mountains  with  the  Mouse  River  valley,  and  that  the  passage  of 
the  Coteau  du  Missouri  is  of  easy  grade. 

11.  That  by  a  deflection  from  Cadotte's  Pass  along  the  valley  of  the  St.  Mary's  river,  a  road 
can  be  made  to  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  and  by  a  somewhat  circuitous  route,  and  with 
expensive  side  cutting,  can  be  extended  to  the  head  of  navigation  of  the  Columbia. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  DURING  THE  FALL  AND  WINTER. 

1.  The  route  pursued  by  Lieutenant  Saxton  to  be  carefully  examined  by  the  estimating  engi 
neers,  to  collect  the  data  for  estimating  the  cost  of  the  road.     The  profile  to  be  tested  by  addi 
tional  barometrical  observations,  and  additional  observations  to  be  made  for  latitude  and  longi 
tude.     The  line  to  be  straightened  and  improved  by  side  reconnaissance. 

2.  The  survey  of  the  Missouri  to  be  continued  to  the  falls,  to  determine  its  navigability  for 
steamers,  and  the  cost  of  removing  the  obstructions,  to  secure  a  greater  depth  of  six  to  twelve 
inches. 

3.  A  pass  to  be  searched  for  in  the  Bitter  Root  range,  and  a  route  to  be  explored  from  Cadotte's 
Pass  along  the  Little  Salmon  river  to  Wallah- Wallah,  to  connect  with  the  survey  already  made 
by  Captain  McClellan,  in  laying  out  the  military  road  from  Wallah- Wallah  to  Nisqually. 

4.  A  route  to  be  examined  from  Cadotte's  Pass  by  the  Mission  of  St.  Joseph,  and  passing  over 
a  somewhat  difficult  portion  of  the  Bitter  Root  range,  but  much  used  by  the  Indians  and  half- 
breeds  in  passing  from  the  mountains  to  Wallah- Wallah. 

5.  A  detached  party  under  Lieutenant  Arnold  to  leave  the  main  party  operating  on  Lieu 
tenant  Saxton's  line,  and  move  to  and  beyond  Fort  Colville  to  the  Cascade  mountains,  and  thence 
along  the  eastern  base  to  the  line  of  the  military  road,  to  open  a  communication  with  Captain 
McClellan,  and  connect  the  surveys  to  the  Columbia  with  the  passes  explored  by  him  in  that 
range. 

G.  Winter  posts  at  Fort  Benton  and  St.  Mary's,  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Doty  and  Lieutenant 
Mullan,  to  make  meteorological  and  magnetic  observations,  surveys  of  the  country  along  the 
base  of  the  mountains,  and  into  the  entrance  of  the  several  passes,  to  collect  information  as  to 
these  passes  from  guides  and  Indians,  in  readiness  for  operations  in  the  spring.  In  addition  to 
which,  attention  to  be  given  to  collections  and  to  the  Indian  tribes. 

"7.  The  survey  of  the  mountain  passes  in  winter  by  Lieutenant  Grover,  going  with  a  dog 
train  over  all  the  ranges  from  Fort  Benton  to  Puget  sound. 


32  LETTER  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OP  WAR. 

8.  Such  observations  as  to  the  navigability  of  the  Columbia  as  may  be  practicable  at  this  late 


season. 


9.  Moving  the  main  party  to  Puget  sound  over  the  pass  found  by  Captain  McClellan  to  be 
the  best. 

10.  Meteorological  posts  at  Wallah- Wallah,  at  Olyinpia,  and  possibly  at  Fort  Colville. 

11.  Office  work  at  Olympia,  preparing  the  report. 


WORK  PROPOSED  FROM  THE  RESUMPTION  OF  OPERATIONS  IN  THE  SPRING  TO  THE   CLOSE  OF  THE 

NEXT   FISCAL  YEAR. 

1.  Careful  explorations  of  the  Marias  Pass  of  the  Eocky  mountains,  and  such  other  passes  as 
from  information  acquired  on  the  resumption  of  the  survey  shall  come  into  competition  with  that 
at  Cadotte's  Pass. 

2.  The  completion  of  the  exploration  of  the  Bitter  Eoot  and  Cascade  ranges,  it  being  scarcely 
practicable  to  accomplish  it  the  present  season. 

3.  Instrumental  surveys  of  the  passes  in  all  three  ranges  found  by  exploration  to  be  the  best. 

4.  These  passes  to  be  connected  by  reconnaissance  in  the  best  practicable  manner. 

5.  The  best  pass  in  the  Rocky  mountains  to  be  connected  with  the  best  crossing  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  by  a  review  of  the  whole  line  by  a  small  party  under  the  charge  of  a  competent  estimating 
civil  engineer,  regard  being  had  to  questions  of  supply  and  modes  of  construction ;  spur  roads  to 
the  Missouri  and  a  connexion  with  Lake  Superior  and  the  roads  leading  eastward  from  the 
Mississippi. 

6.  The  careful  survey  of  the  Columbia  river,  to  determine  to  what  extent  it  can  be  made 
useful  in  transporting  supplies,  &c.,  for  the  construction  of  the  road. 

7.  Examinations  in  relation  to  connecting  the  most  practicable  route  with  Oregon  and  Cali 
fornia. 

8.  Re-continuance  of  the  meteorological  posts. 

9.  Information  to  be  collected  as  to  emigrant  routes,  wagon  roads,  and  country  adapted  to 
settlement. 

I  append  to  this  report  copies  of  all  the  orders  since  leaving  Camp  Pierce,  and  copies  of  all 
the  important  instructions  since  leaving  Fort  Union.  These  papers  will,  in  connexion  with 
this  communication,  give  as  full  a  report  of  the  present  state  of  the  exploration  as  my  limited 
time  will  allow. 

1.  Copies  of  my  three  letters  to  the  department  of  the  8th  of  September,  forwarded  by  Dr. 
Evans,  and  which  will  not  probably  reach  Washington  till  after  this  communication  is  received. 
They  give  a  bird's-eye  view  of  operations ;  state  that  the  survey  fund  will  probably  be  exhausted 
in  October ;  state  my  determination  to  continue  the  survey,  and  organize  a  small  but  efficient 
winter  force,  in  readiness  to  resume  operations  in  the  spring,  and  urge  the  recommending 
•Congress  to  pass  in  the  deficiency  bill  an  appropriation  of  $40,000  to  continue  the  work  the 
remainder  of  the  present  fiscal  year.     They  ask  that  the  $10,000  now  in  the  treasury,  of  the 
gum  allotted  from  the  appropriation  to  the  survey  of  this  route,  and  such  other  sums  as  may  be 
applied  to  it  from  other  appropriations,  may  be  drawn  from  the  treasury  and  "be  placed  on 
deposit  with  the  Treasurer,  subject  to  my  order.     The  only  modification  I  now  make  of  these 
views  is,  that  I  would  recommend  urging  Congress  to  pass  an  appropriation  of  $150,000  to 
continue  all  these  great  railroad  explorations  during  the  remainder  of  the  present  fiscal  year,  and 
the  same  amount  in  the  general  appropriation  bills  for  the  next  fiscal  year. 

2.  Copy  of  my  Order  No.  18,  (marked  No.  4,)  issued  on  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Saxton  at 
Fort  Benton. 

3.  Copy  of  my  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Grover,  (marked  No.  5,)  directing  him  to  recon 
noitre  Cadotte's  Pass,  ascertain  whether  Lieutenant  Saxton  had  arrived  at  Fort  Benton,  and 


ORDER    ISSUED    ON    THE    ARRIVAL    OF    LIEUTENANT    SAXTON    AT    FORT    BENTON.  33 

directing  him,  on  completing  his  mission,  to  return  to  Fort  Benton,  to  complete  the  survey  of 
the  Missouri,  and  pass  with  a  dog  train  over  the  mountains  in  the  winter. 

4.  Copy  of  my  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Mullan,  (marked  No.  6,)  directing  him  to  repair  to 
the  Flathead  camps,  on  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  and  from  that  point  to  survey  a  route  to  St. 
Mary's  through  one  of  the  passes  leading  from  the  forks  of  the  Missouri. 

5.  Copies  of  three  letters  of  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Donelson,  (marked  7,  8,  and  9,)  the 
two  former  based  on  continuing  the  exploration  with  wagons,  and  providing  for  the  exploration 
of  the  Marias  Pass  by  Mr.  Lander,  and  the  third  changing  the  train  from  wagons  to  packs,  and 
deferring  to  another  season  the  exploration  of  the  Marias  Pass. 

6.  Copy  of  my  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Saxton,  (marked  No.  10,)  directing  him  to  take 
charge  of  the  returned  men,  and  to  repair  to  Washington  to  prepare  his  report  and  give  inform 
ation  to  the  department,  &c. 

7.  Copy  of  my  instructions  to  Mr.  Doty,   (marked  No.   11,)  placing  him  in  charge  of  the 
meteorological  and  supply  post  at  this  point. 

8.  Copy  of  my  General  Order  No.  11,  (marked  No.  12,)  abandoning  two  lines  of  operations 
from  Big  Muddy  river,  and  returning  thanks  to  the  men  for  their  previous  services. 

9.  All  the  remaining  orders  issued  by  myself  or  Lieutenant  Donelson  in  connexion  with  the 
main  party,  viz:   Orders  No.  10,  No.  12  to  No.  17,  and  marked  consecutively  to  27. 

10.  Copy  of  camp  regulations — (No.  28.) 

11.  Copy  of  my  letter  to   Captain  Gardiner,  June  30,  (No.  29,)  relieving  him  from  duty  in 
consequence  of  ill  health,  and  stating  that  I  would  assume  the  duties  of  quartermaster  and  com 
missary. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Expedition. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington,  D.  C. 


No.  4. 
[ORDER  No.  18.] 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 
Camp  Dobbin,  near  Fort  Benton,  September  15,  1853. 

The  chief  of  the  expedition  congratulates  Lieutenant  Saxton  and  his  party  upon  their  safe 
arrival  at  Fort  Benton.,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  For  indomitable  energy,  sound 
judgment,  and  the  most  crowning  accomplishment,  Lieutenant  Saxton  has  the  thanks  of  all  his 
associates,  and  deserves  honorable  mention  at  the  hands  of  all  men  who  seek  to  advance  the 
honor  and  renown  of  their  country. 

Lieutenant  Grover,  in  command  of  the  advance  party  to  open  a  communication  with  the 
parties  west  of  the  mountains,  and  who  met  Lieutenant  Saxton  near  the  dividing  ridge,  also 
receives  the  thanks  and  congratulations  of  his  associates  in  the  great  work  now  so  ripe  for 
success.  . 

Daylight  now  breaks  through  the  struggles  of  three  months. 

On  the  8th  of  June  the  supply-train  left  Camp  Pierce,  on  Lake  Amelia,  and  on  the  8th  of 
September  the  parties  from  the  Mississippi  and  the  Pacific  shook  hands  across  the  continent. 
The  pass  of  the  Eocky  mountains  is  found  to  be  more  than  one  thousand  feet  below  the  South 
Pass,  and  is  not  only  practicable,  but  expressly  made  to  our  hands  for  the  great  northern 

railroad. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Exploration. 


34  INSTRUCTIONS    TO    LIEUTENANTS    GROVER   AND    MULLAN. 

No.  5. 

FORT  BEXTON,  UPPER  MISSOURI, 

September  5,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  With  a  select  party  of  seven  men  and  sixteen  animals,  you  are  assigned  to  the 
duty  of  reconnoitring  the  Blackfoot  trail  to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  and  of  the  route  from  that 
point  to  the  Kootenaies  post.  You  will  then  return  to  this  point  and  make  the  survey  of  the 
upper  Missouri,  from  the  Falls,  to  connect  with  Lieutenant  Donelson's  survey,  which  extended 
some  distance  above  Fort  Union.  You  will  then  return  from  Fort  Union,  and  reconnoitre  the 
country  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri  rivers.  At  Fort  Benton  you  will  get  up  a  dog  train 
and  cross  the  mountains  in  the  winter,  make  the  best  of  your  way  to  Puget  sound,  and  report 
to  me  at  Oiympia. 

In  the  reconnaissance  to  the  St.  Mary's  village  observe  carefully  camping  grounds,  the  general 
practicability  of  the  route  for  wagons,  the  particular  difficulties,  and  how  they  are  to  be  over 
come,  and  send  back  by  two  of  your  voyageurs,  H.  Beaubien  and  Cadotte,  a  report  in  relation  to 
the  same — instructing  them  to  deliver  the  report  to  myself  or  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  main 
train.  Also  give  information  as  to  whether  a  depot  has  been  established  by  Lieutenant  Saxton 
at  the  Flathead  village,  and  the  provisions  and  animals  in  store  there. 

The  object  in  going  to  the  Kootenaies  post  is  two-fold :  First,  to  open  the  communication  with 
Captain  McClellan;  and  second,  to  open  a  connexion  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  posts,  in  order  to 
draw  upon  them  for  supplies  for  the  prosecution  of  the  survey  west  of  the  mountains,  in  the 
event  Lieutenant  Saxton  has  failed  to  establish  a  depot  at  the  St.  Mary's  village. 

Upon  your  return  I  shall  be  able  to  give  some  general  instructions  in  relation  to  the  survey 
of  the  Missouri  and  the  remaining  work  assigned  to  you. 

It  is  important  that  I  should  meet  Captain  McClellan  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  about  the 
25th  of  September.  If  practicable,  get  word  to  him  to  this  effect. 

Truly  yours, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Exploration, 

Lieut.  C.  GROVER, 

4:th  Artillery,  U.  S.  Army,  Fort  Benton,  Upper  Missouri. 

After  the  above  letter  was  written — 

NOTE. — Very  full  verbal  instructions  were  given  to  Lieutenant  Grover,  that  should  he  meet 
Lieutenant  Saxton,  either  on  the  way  or  at  St.  Mary's,  to  return  immediately  and  apprize  me 
of  such  fact.  In  case  Lieutenant  Saxton  had  not  established  the  depot  at  St.  Mary's,  he  Avas  to 
push  forward  to  the  Kootenaies  post,  and  from  that  point  fit  out,  by  the  assistance  of  the  Hud 
son's  Bay  Company,  an  express  with  a  note  to  Captain  McClellan,  asking  him,  if  practicable,  to 
meet  me  on  the  25th  September,  at  the  village  of  St.  Mary's.  After  which  Lieutenant  Grover 
was  to  return  at  once  to  Fort  Benton. 


No.  0. 

FORT  BENTON,  UPPER  MISSOURI, 

September  8,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  With  a  select  party,  consisting  of  the  Piegan  guide,  (the  White  Crane,)  Mr.  Rose, 
Mr.  Burr,  and  two  voyageurs,  you  will  visit  the  Flathead  camp,  on  the  Muscle  Shell  river, 
about  one  hundred  miles  south  of  this  place;  and  procuring  the  most  intelligent  and  reliable 
Flathead  guides,  you  will  make  your  way  to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  exploring  the  best  pass  to 
that  point  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri  river.  You  will  collect  every  possible  inform 
ation  as  to  routes,  streams,  prominent  land-marks,  and  characteristic  features  of  country; 


INSTRUCTIONS    TO    LIEUTENANT    DONELSON.  35 

noting  particularly  the  general  quality  of  the  soil,  the  forest  trees,  grasses,  quality  of  water, 
and  practicability  of  the  route  for  the  passage  of  wagon  trains.  With  the  barometer  you  will 
make  the  best  profile  the  time  will  allow  of  the  route  you  pass  over,  and  such  facts  as  your 
limited  means  will  allow,  as  to  the  feasibility  of  the  route  for  a  railroad. 

But  the  great  duty  which  I  place  in  your  hands,  is  to  carry  from  me  a  message  of  the  Great 
Father  to  the  Flatheads.  Assure  them  that  the  Great  Father  appreciates  their  services  and 
understands  their  merits ;  that  he  will  hereafter  protect  them  from  the  incursions  of  the  Black- 
feet,  and  other  Indians  east  of  the  mountains,  and  make  them  live  as  friends;  that  he  will  send 
to  them,  each  year,  certain  articles  which  they  most  need;  and  that  a  faithful  and  intelligent 
agent  shall  live  among  them. 

Speak  of  your  own  duties,  and  of  your  occupation  of  the  St.  Mary's  post.  I  want  to  meet  the 
prominent  Flathead  chiefs  and  braves  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  at  the  close  of  the  present 
month ;  and  I  rely  on  your  energy  and  tact  to  induce  them  to  accompany  you  to  that  point. 

It  is  my  determination  to  bring  the  tribes  north  of  the  Missouri,  and  those  west  of  the  mount 
ains,  into  a  general  council  at  this  point  next  year,  and  to  make  a  lasting  peace  between  all 
the  tribes  of  Indians  not  included  in  previous  arrangements.  Dwell  on  this  in  the  Flathead 
camp. 

You  understand  well  the  general  character  of  the  Flatheads,  the  best  Indians  of  the  mount 
ains  or  the  plains.  Honest,  brave,  docile,  they  need  only  encouragement  to  become  good  citi 
zens.  They  are  Christians ;  and  we  are  assured  by  the  good  Father  De  Smet  that  they  live 
up  to  the  Christian  code. 

Dwell  on  the  good  Father,  and  say  that  his  words  in  their  favor  have  reached  the  Great  Father 
and  made  all  good  men  their  friends. 

I  want  to  build  up  anew  the  village  of  St.  Mary's.  Let  the  Flatheads  understand  I  am  their 
friend — one  who  will  join  hands  with  former  friends  for  their  good.  No  labors  will  be  more 
sweet  than  those  which  will  enable  me  to  place  in  permanent  homes,  in  that  beautiful  valley, 
these  interesting  children  of  the  mountains. 

Truly  yours, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 

Lieut.  J.  MULLAX,  JR., 

1st  Artillery,  United  Stales  Army. 


No.   7. 

FORT  BENTON,  September  7,  1853. 

DEAR  DONELSON  :  I  am  satisfied  you  should  take  the  advance  with  the  odometer  party,  a  baro 
meter,  a  sextant,  two  wagons,  twenty  to  twenty-five  men,  and  examine  carefully  the  approaches 
to  Cadotte's  Pass.  The  country,  and  particularly  the  river  crossings,  the  plateau  east  of  the 
Teton  to  the  Missouri,  and  from  the  same  plateau  to  the  plateau  between  the  Sun  river  and 
the  next  considerable  tributary  of  the  Missouri,  will  especially  require  careful  examination.  On 
leaving  the  Sun  river  to  reach  the  base  of  the  first  dividing  ridge,  several  streams  are  crossed,  and 
it  is  probable  a  wide  range  of  country  should  be  taken.  It  is  probable  you  will  be  obliged  to 
halt  every  alternate  day  in  order  to  do  the  side  work.  The  detached  parties  for  this  work  should 
not  exceed  three  men.  Two  will  often  be  sufficient. 

The  whole  train  will  reach  you  by  the  time  you  are  at  the  base  of  the  first  dividing  ridge, 
and  then  the  advanced  party  must  be  turned  into  a  pioneer  party  to  remove  obstructions. 
AVhatever  reports  are  sent  to  me,  I  am  now  determined  to  push  a  wagon  train  through  ;  nor 
shall  a  mule  be  packed,  except  for  side  work,  till  we  reach  the  point  where  we  are  compelled  to 
unload  our  wagons. 


36  INSTRUCTIONS    TO    LIEUTENANT    DONELSON. 

It  is  impossible  to  give  more  definite  instructions  than  those  indicated  in  my  letter  of  day 
before  yesterday,  and  given  in  this  note.  Much  is  left,  of  necessity,  to  the  judgment  of  the 
officers  charged  with  the  work.  It  involves  a  constant  exercise  of  judgment  and  a  careful 
study  of  every  new  fact.  The  country  is  not  known  except  in  a  general  way  ;  but  enough 
is  known  to  say  that  the  approaches  to  Cadotte's  Pass  must  be  over  a  large  space  of  country, 
and  the  examinations  must  be  such  that  the  main  features  shall  be  given  with  accuracy. 

When  Mr.  Tinkham  gets  in,  he  can  at  once  join  you,  giving  to  the  region  you  pass  over  in 
advance  a  careful  examination  for  facts  and  general  views  of  construction.  With  his  work,  and 
that  of  Mr.  Lander  and  Lieut.  Grover,  the  connexion  from  Milk  Eiver  valley  with  your  work 
will  be  complete. 

]  wish  you  to  throw  yourself  into  this  work  with  your  whole  force.  It  is  important  that  not  a 
day  should  be  lost. 

As  regards  Lieutenant  Mullan,  unless  his  services  are  indispensable,  he  should  go  to  the  Flat- 
head  camp,  reaching  St.  Mary's  village  by  a  new  and  more  southern  pass.  The  force  placed  at 
his  disposal  must  of  necessity  be  small.  Including  one  Indian  (Piegan)  and  Mr.  Eose,  (Mr. 
Culbertson's  storekeeper)  I  cannot  assign  more  than  two  men.  Yet  it  must  be  certain  that  he 
can  be  spared  from  the  magnetic  observations  and  from  the  main  train.  He  will,  at  all  events, 
find  his  field  on  reaching  the  St.  Mary's  village. 

You  must  go  in  advance,  and  if  possible  to-morrow.  The  main  train  should  move  not  longer 
than  four  days  after  you.  It  will  consist  of  twelve  mule  wagons,  not  loaded  more  than  1,200 
pounds  each. 

I  shall  push  all  my  business  through  to-day,  and  have  not  the  time  to  consult  I  desire.  When 
you  come  in,  and  come  early,  have  your  programme  complete  for  the  advance  party,  and  I  will 
decide  at  once. 

*******  *  *  *  * 

[Here  follow  some  unimportant  paragraphs,  relating  to  duty  for  next  day,  &c.] 

Truly  yours, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 


No.  8. 

FORT  BENTON,  UPPER  MISSOURI, 

September  7,  1853. 

SIR:  You  are  placed  in  charge  of  the  survey  of  the  railroad  route  from  this  point  through 
Cadotte's  Pass  to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  and  your  force  will  consist  of  the  odometer  party,  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Lambert,  assisted  by  Sergeant  Collins  ;  the  astronomical  party,  in  charge  of  Mr. 
Stevens,  assisted  by  Sapper  Roach  ;  the  magnetic  party,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Doty,  assisted  by 
Sapper  Wilson  ;  Dr.  Suckley,  the  surgeon  and  naturalist  of  the  expedition,  assisted  by  Sapper 
Homer  ;  the  meteorological  party,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Moifett,  assisted  by  Mr.  Burr  and  the  trained 
sappers  of  your  detachment ;  Mr.  Tinkham,  estimating  engineer  ;  Mr.  Osgood,  the  disbursing 
quartermaster  and  commissary  agent  and  acting  quartermaster  and  commissary  of  the  party, 
and  especially  in  charge  of  the  baggage  and  supply  train,  with  Sergeant  Higgins,  Corporals 
Coster,  Simpson,  and  Pierson,  assistant  wagon  and  pack- masters ;  Sergeant  Lindner  in  command 
of  dragoons,  Corporal  Causser  with  the  mountain  howitzer,  and  fourteen  non-commissioned 
officers  and  men  of  the  dragoon  detachment ;  Mr.  French  and  Mr.  Morgan,  artificers  ;  Bashall, 
the  blacksmith,  Meckleback,  saddler,  and  twenty-seven  quartermaster's  employes,  &c. 

You  will  form  an  advance  party,  consisting  of  the  odometer  party,  the  estimating  engineer, 
(as  soon  as  he  shall  have  returned  from  his  reconnaissance  of  the  Three  Buttes,)  and  Mr.  Adams, 


INSTRUCTIONS    TO   LIEUTENANT   DONELSON,  37 

assistant  artist ;  an  assistant  from  the  meteorological  party,  a  small  detachment  of  dragoons, 
with  the  necessary  employes  of  the  quartermaster's  department,  two  wagons,  rations  for  fifteen 
days,,  will  move  forward  at  once  towards  Cadotte's  Pass,  moving  slowly,  covering  the  ground 
with  great  care  from  the  dividing  ridge  east  of  the  Big  Teton  to  the  Missouri  river,  and  in 
cluding  a  rapid  reconnaissance  of  the  falls  of  the  Missouri  river. 

The  approaches  to  Cadotte's  Pass  must  he  examined  with  care,  and  full  information  gained  as 
to  river  crossings  and  side  approaches.  The  space  to  he  covered,  at  first  large,  will  undoubtedly 
narrow  towards  the  entrance  to  the  pass.  Advantage  must  he  taken  of  hills  to  gain  views  of 
country.  Small  detached  parties  of  one,  two,  or  at  most  three  men,  must  he  thrown  out  for 
purposes  of  reconnaissance.  In  the  pass  the  lateral  valleys  and  passes  should  he  examined  to 
the  extent  of  the  force  at  your  disposal.  More  definite  instructions  cannot  be  given.  The 
field  will  open  and  the  right  methods  will  be  suggested  as  you  advance.  Much  must  be  left,  of 
necessity,  to  your  own  judgment.  I  refer  you,  in  relation  to  this  matter,  to  my  letter  of  this 
morning,  which  will  be  considered  as  a  portion  of  these  instructions,  and  in  which  my  views  are 
given  as  to  the  method  of  conducting  operations. 

For  information  as  to  the  details  of  the  work,  I  refer  you  to  my  printed  instructions,  to  the 
written  instructions  addressed  to  and  in  possession  of  the  chiefs  of  parties,  and  to  the  methods 
actually  in  use  since  your  connexion  with  the  main  party. 

The  supply  and  baggage  train  will  move  forward  on  the  llth  or  12th  instant,  in  charge  of 
Mr.  Osgood,  and  the  marches  will  be  so  arranged  between  the  two  portions  of  the  command, 
as  that  the  whole  shall  be  brought  together  at  the  foot  of  the  first  dividing  ridge,  and  where 
the  greatest  obstructions  to  the  passage  of  wagons  are  said  to  be  found.  All  the  baggage  will 
be  carried  in  wagons,  and  the  train  will  consist  of  twelve  mule  teams  and  one  ox-wagon. 

On  reaching  the  point  where  serious  difficulties  may  occur  to  the  passage  of  wagons,  an  effi 
cient  pioneer  party  should  be  organized,  kept  well  ahead  to  remove  obstructions,  and  prepare 
for  the  passage  of  the  train.  Ample  supplies  of  rope  and  tackle  should  be  provided.  You  are 
instructed  to  direct  your  energies  to  the  passage  of  the  train,  though  not  to  involve  serious 
detriment  to  the  prosecution  of  the  survey.  All  the  pack-saddles  will  be  taken  along  to  pro 
vide  for  the  possible  necessity  of  abandoning  the  wagons.  The  wagons  will  not,  however,  be 
abandoned  without  my  direct  order,  and  you  are  authorized,  when,  in  your  judgment,  the  task 
of  pushing  through  the  wagon  train  shall  endanger  the  operations  of  the  survey,  to  make  a  report 
in  writing  to  me  to  that  effect,  and  to  turn  over  the  train  to  Mr.  Osgood,  taking  the  rations 
necessary  for  reaching  the  St.  Mary's  village,  and  leaving  to  me  the  responsibility  of  deciding 
upon  the  question  of  continuing  the  effort  to  get  the  train  to  the  St.  Mary's.  In  drawing 
rations,  however,  you  will  leave  with  the  train  at  least  double  the  amount  taken  for  the  party 
you  may  organize  under  your  immediate  charge  for  the  survey.  I  cannot  authorize,  however, 
the  separation  of  the  party,  and  placing  the  entire  responsibility  of  the  train  with  Mr. 
Osgood,  without  your  written  report,  referred  to  above,  addressed  to  me,  and  placed  in  his 
hands.  That  report  will  authorize  Mr.  Osgood  to  take  such  measures  for  the  care  of  the  train 
and  animals  as,  in  his  judgment,  may  be  necessary. 

On  reaching  the  St.  Mary's  village,  you  will  rest  your  animals  and  await  my  arrival — con 
forming,  however,  to  instructions  you  may  receive  from  Captain  McClellan.  It  is  probable  that 
Lieutenant  Mullan  may  reach  that  point  not  long  after  your  arrival,  bringing  excellent  Flat- 
head  guides,  acquainted  with  the  several  passes  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  posts  on  the  Columbia 
river,  and  to  Fort  Hall.  No  time  should  be  lost  in  gaining  every  possible  information  as  to 
routes.  In  case  of  a  depot  not  having  been  established  at  the  St.  Mary's  village  by  Lieutenant 
Saxton,  Dr.  Evans,  the  geologist  of  the  expedition,  has  instructions  to  bring  up  supplies  from 
the  Dalles  for  the  service  of  the  parties  that  may  operate  from  the  St.  Mary's  village. 

It  is  my  intention  to  establish  at  the  St.  Mary's  village  a  winter  post  in  charge  of  Lieutenant 
Mullan,  to  operate  in  the  passes  of  the  mountains  till  driven  out  by  snow,  and  then  to  explore 
the  lateral  valleys  and  passes.  Its  establishment  is  essential  to  secure  success  to  the  contem- 


38  INSTRUCTIONS    TO    LIEUTENANT    DONELSON. 

plated  survey,  by  Lieutenant  Grover,   of  Cadottc's  Pass,  with  a  dog  train,  in  the  month  of 
January. 

Lieutenant  Grover  has  already  preceded  you  to  reconnoitre  the  pass,  and  to  open  a  communi 
cation  with  Captain  McClellan.  On  reaching  Medicine  river,  you  may  expect  to  meet  his 
express,  consisting  of  Cadotte  and  H.  Beaubien,  with  a  letter  to  me,  giving  information  as  to 
camps,  water,  difficulties  of  the  route,  and  as  to  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Saxton  at  St.  Mary's. 
This  you  will  open  and  copy,  and  will  then  send  the  express  forward  with  it  to  the  supply 
train,  and  thence  to  meet  me. 

Should  Lieutenant  Grover  meet  you  on  his  return,  before  you  reach  St.  Mary's,  you  will 
furnish  him  with  such  men  as  he  may  select  for  his  winter's  work,  not  exceeding  eight  in  his 
whole  party,  and  render  such  assistance  as  he  may  require  on  his  way  to  Fort  Benton. 

The  most  vigilant  attention  must  be  given  to  issues  of  provisions,  and  only  half  rations  of 
hard  bread  and  flour  will  be  allowed  when  fresh  meat  is  in  abundance.  This  rule  will  apply  to 
the  gentlemen  as  well  as  men  of  the  party.  Single  rations  of  sugar  and  coffee  only  can  be 
allowed,  except  on  extraordinary  occasions. 

I  need  not  enlarge  upon  the  necessity  of  care  of  animals,  and  keeping  daily  reports,  as  it  is 
already  well  understood  by  you,  and  has  been  made  the  occasion  of  issuing  an  excellent  order. 

The  scientific  parties  left  behind  will  all  move  with  the  supply  train.  It  is  my  expectation 
to  return  from  the  Piegan  camp  about  the  18th  instant ;  to  move  from  Fort  Benton  not  later 
than  the  20th,  and  to  reach  the  St.  Mary's  valley  by  the  close  of  the  month. 

Yours,  &c., 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Exploration. 

Lieutenant  A.  J.  DONELSON, 

Corps  of  Engineers. 


NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Camp  Dobbin,  near  Fort  Benton,  September  14,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  The  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Saxton,  with  information  of  the  establishment  of  the 
St.  Mary's  post,  of  the  practicability  of  Cadotte's  Pass,  and  of  the  route  pursued  by  him  for  a 
railroad,  but  with  the  information  that  the  Bitter  Root  range  of  mountains  cannot  with  cer 
tainty  be  crossed  after  the  20th  of  October,  makes  it  necessary  to  use  all  possible  despatch  in 
crossing  the  Rocky  range,  and  getting  the  exploring  parties  at  work  on  their  general  routes 
westward  to  the  Columbia. 

The  survey  of  the  Marias  Pass  will  be  deferred  until  next  year.  Mr.  Lander's  party,  as 
signed  to  this  duty,  have  been  directed  to  report  to  you.  The  whole  party  will  move  through 
the  pass  under  your  direction,  with  pack-train.  Two  efficient  parties,  under  the  associate  en 
gineers,  Messrs.  Lander  and  Tinkham,  will  get  in  side-work,  and  make  the  necessary  estimates. 
Mr.  Graham  will  report  to  you  for  astronomical  duty,  and  Mr.  Bixby  to  Mr.  Lambert,  in  charge 
of  the  odometer  party,  for  running  the  base-line.  All  the  dragoons,  except  Sergeant  Lindner, 
Corporals  Coster  and  Rummell,  Avill  be  ordered  to  report  to  Lieutenant  Saxton.  Mr.  Doty  will 
be  directed  to  report  to  me  with  Corporal  Coster,  and  will  occupy  Fort  Benton  as  a  meteoro 
logical  and  supply  post.  An  observer  may  be  kept  at  Fort  Union.  The  two  Osbornes,  the 
blacksmith  and  saddler,  will  also  report  to  Lieutenant  Saxton. 

Mr.  Stevens  will  report  to  me  with  the  portable  transit,  and  the  necessary  astronomical  in 
struments,  for  special  duty.  When  your  train  is  in  readiness  to  move,  all  the  stores  and  bag 
gage  left  behind  will  be  turned  over  to  Mr.  Osgood,  who  will  report  to  me  for  his  duties,  in 
connexion  with  all  the  parties,  as  the  disbursing,  quartermaster,  and  commissary  agent  of  the 
expedition. 


INSTRUCTIONS    TO   LIEUTENANT    SAXTON.  39 

You  will  press  on,  carrying  out  my  instructions  of  the  8th  instant,  with  all  your  vigor,  and 
reach  Saint  Mary's  at  the  earliest  practicable  moment.  If  I  do  not  arrive  within  three  days, 
organize  your  parties  to  explore,  and  survey  routes  to  the  Columbia,  directing  more  especially 
towards  and  beyond  Fort  Colville,  to  meet  Captain  McClellan,  and  establish  the  Saint  Mary's 
post  under  Lieutenant  Mullan,  with  a  force  often  to  twenty,  consisting  of  the  seven  soldiers  of 
the  4th  infantry,  and  such  employes  and  voyageurs  of  the  original  party,  operating  from  the 
Mississippi,  as  may  consent  to  remain  with  their  present  pay,  and  of  an  experienced  meteorolo 
gist,  and,  if  practicable,  a  good  topographer.  Lieutenant  Mullan  has  had  verbal  instructions 
from  me  as  to  his  duties,  and  you  will,  on  conference  with  him,  have  all  the  information  to  en 
able  you  to  give  the  necessary  written  instructions. 

I  shall  endeavor  to  leave  this  place  in  six  days,  and  hope  to  reach  St.  Mary's  within  three 
days  after  your  arrival. 

Yours,  truly, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 
Lieutenant  A.  J.  DONELSON, 

Corps  of  Engineers. 


No.  10. 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  KAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Fort  Benton,  September  19,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR  :  You  are  instructed  to  take  charge  of  the  enlisted  men  who  have  reported  to  you 
to  be  returned  from  this  point,  and,  with  the  keel- boat  which  has  been  purchased  on  account  of 
the  quartermaster's  department,  proceed  down  the  Missouri  with  the  greatest  possible  despatch, 
in  execution  of  the  following  duties : 

First.  To  return  the  enlisted  men  to  their  appropriate  army  service,  either  at  Fort  Leaven- 
worth  or  at  St.  Louis,  as  may  be  deemed  by  you  the  more  advisable ;  and  in  like  manner  to  dis 
charge  and  pay  off  the  employes  of  the  quartermaster's  department — affording,  however,  to  all 
who  may  desire  it,  transportation  to  St.  Louis. 

Second.  To  turn  over  the  keel-boat  for  the  service  of  the  quartermaster's  department  at  Fort 
Leavenworth,  or  dispose  of  the  same  by  sale,  as  the  public  interest  may  require. 

Third.  To  proceed  to  Washington,  organize  your  office  force,  which  will  consist  of  your  as 
sistant  in  the  quartermaster's  department,  Mr.  Hoyt  and  Sergeant  Collins,  of  the  detachment 
of  sappers  and  miners.  This  report  you  are  requested  to  prepare  with  great  care,  and  to  send 
it  at  the  earliest  possible  period  to  me  at  Olympia ;  at  the  same  time  you  will  send  a  copy  of 
it  in  my  name  to  the  Secretary  of  War. 

It  is  suggested  that  in  this  report  you  give  in  separate  chapters  the  results  of  your  observa 
tions  in  botany,  natural  history,  and  geology,  and  you  are  requested  not  only  to  report,  in  great 
detail,  your  experience  with  the  Indians,  but  to  enter  fully  into  the  several  questions  of  Indian 
policy,  especially  those  relating  to  their  being  reclaimed  from  a  wandering  life  to  permanent 
homes. 

Fourth.  Sergeant  Collins,  of  the  detachment  of  sappers  and  miners,  is  assigned  to  duty  as  an 
assistant  in  the  work,  and  on  resuming  the  survey  ;  and  you  are  authorized  to  continue  Mr. 
Hoyt  in  the  service  of  the  expedition  for  the  same  purpose. 

Fifth.  One  of  your  most  important  duties  in  Washington  will  be  to  afford  information  to  the 
departments  and  to  Congress  as  to  this  hitherto  unexplored  region  of  country,  and  to  show 
how  the  interests  and  the  honor  of  the  country  require  the  continuance  of  three  great  geograph 
ical  explorations. 

Sixth.  You  have  had  opportunities  to  observe  the  Indian  tribes,  and  your  experience,  in  con- 


40  INSTRUCTIONS    TO    LIEUTENANT    SAXTON. 

nexion  with  that  gained  by  our  parties  moving  westward  from  the  Mississippi,  has  established 
in  all  our  minds  the  conviction  that  a  council  should  be  held  next  year  at  this  point,  to  enter 
into  a  treaty  with  all  the  Indians  north  of  the  Missouri  not  included  in  existing  arrangements, 
and  those  immediately  west  of  the  mountains,  providing  that  hereafter  they  should  cease  warring 
upon  each  other,  and  continue,  for  all  time  to  come,  the  friends  of  the  whites.  The  time  is  ripe 
for  such  a  consummation.  I  desire  you  to  devote  your  energies  to  call  the  attention  of  the 
department  and  of  Congress  to  this  subject.  In  a  letter  which  I  shall  send  by  you  to  the  Com 
missioner  of  the  Indian  Bureau,  I  shall  urge  that  Congress  be  asked  to  appropriate  money 
early  in  the  session  to  defray  the  expenses  of  this  council,  and  that  a  steamer,  applicable  to  the 
service  generally  of  the  Indian  bureau  on  the  Missouri,  be  chartered  or  purchased  to  reach  this 


Seventh.  It  is  hoped  that  appropriations  will  also  be  made  early  in  the  session  to  continue 
the  survey,  in  which  case  you  are  requested  to  make  the  best  practicable  arrangements  to  reach 
this  point  with  the  assistants,  Mr.  Hoyt  and  Sergeant  Collins,  now  on  duty  with  you,  for  the 
purpose  of  exploring  the  region  west.  If  appropriations  be  made  early  in  the  session  for  con 
tinuing  the  survey  and  for  holding  a  council,  it  is  believed  that  the  best  interests  of  the  two 
services  would  make  it  absolutely  necessary  to  secure  a  steamer  to  insure  efficiency  to  each.  To 
that  end,  much  is  expected  from  your  experience  and  judgment. 

Eighth.  On  reaching  Pugct  sound,  and  ascertaining  the  condition  of  the  work  at  the  close  of 
the  season,  I  shall  send  more  full  instructions  in  relation  to  the  place  of  continuing  the  survey 
and  the  supplies,  instruments,  and  assistance  required  to  be  brought  to  this  point.  One  thing 
is  certain  :  a  letter  from  Washington  addressing  me  that  appropriations  have  been  made,  and 
that  a  steamer  will  be  placed  upon  the  river,  will  give  me  notice  two  weeks  before  it  will  be 
necessary  to  leave  Olympia  for  Fort  Benton  to  meet  it. 

Ninth.  Going  down  the  Missouri,  you  will  be  able  to  collect  many  valuable  facts  in  reference 
to  its  general  character,  as  to  the  steamer  adapted  to  navigate  it,  as  to  depots  for  wood  and  the 
best  method  of  supplying  them,  and  as  to  the  probable  time  required  to  make  the  trip,  both  up 
and  down  the  river,  which  will  add  much  to  the  value  of  your  report. 

Tenth.  I  shall,  at  the  earliest  practicable  moment,  submit  a  report  on  the  navigability  of  the 
Missouri,  based  on  the  surveys  of  Lieutenants  Donelson  and  Grover,  and  your  own  observa 
tions  ;  but  should  not  this  report  be  received  before  you  have  to  act,  I  will  express  the  opinion 
that  you  can  reach  Fort  Benton  by  the  middle  of  June,  leaving  St.  Louis  early  in  Mav,  with  a 
steamer  drawing  eighteen  inches  of  water. 

Eleventh.  A.  Culbertson,  special  agent  among  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  goes  with  you,  under 
instructions  from  me  to  repair  to  Washington  as  soon  as  his  other  arrangements  will  permit, 
to  urge  the  importance  of  entering,  without  delay,  into  treaty  arrangements  with  these  Indians 
and  those  west  of  the  mountains.  His  experience  of  twenty  years  among  these  Indians,  and 
his  known  force  of  character,  will  give  great  weight  to  his  views.  I  expect  that  there  will  be 
the  most  cordial  co-operation  between  you  in  relation  to  these  Indian  questions.  He  knows 
thoroughly  the  river,  and  will  put  his  hand  to  the  helm. 

Twelfth.  William  Graham  and  Henry  Beaubien,  who  have  at  this  point,  at  their  request, 
been  relieved  from  their  connexion  with  the  expedition,  will  accompany  you,  and  be  furnished 
with  transportation  and  subsistence  to  St.  Louis. 

Yours,  &c., 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 
Lieut.  RUFUS  SAXTON, 

4^A  Artillery,  Fort  Benton. 


INSTRUCTIONS    TO    MR.    DOTY. — GENERAL    ORDER.  41 

No.  11. 

Instructions  to  James  Doty,  left  in  command  of  the  meteorological  and  supply  post  of  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad  Exploration  and  Survey  established  at  Fort  Benton,  September.,  1853. 

SIR:  You  are  placed  in  command  of  the  meteorological  and  supply  post  at  Fort  Benton. 
Corporal  Coster,  Sapper  Lynt,  and  Hugh  Robie,  are  placed  under  your  command :  Coster  to 
assist  in  taking  care  of  the  property  left  at  this  post,  Lynt  to  assist  in  observations,  Robie  as 
cook  and  laborer. 

Observations  will  be  made  with  the  barometers,  thermometers,  and  hygrometer,  three  times 
each  day.  The  amount  of  rain  will  be  determined  by  the  river  gauge.  It  is  desirable  to  ascer 
tain  the  general  character  of  the  winter  :  as,  the  deptli  and  continuance  of  snow ;  time  at  which 
the  river  is  frozen;  time  of  breaking  up;  floating  ice;  freshets,  &c. 

It  is  important  that  all  opportunities  for  observations  of  the  Indian  tribes  in  this  vicinity 
should  be  improved.  Information  is  desired  concerning  their  habits,  customs  and  tradition ; 
the  boundaries  of  their  country;  their  wintering  places,  and  their  hunting-grounds  in  summer. 
It  is  supposed  that  these  Indians  are  often  found  upon  the  California  emigrant  trail,  and  even 
as  far  south  as  Taos,  in  New  Mexico.  Ascertain,  if  possible,  whether  their  predatory  excursions 
have  this  range. 

Topographical  explorations  may  be  made  when  practicable. 

The  winter  trading  posts  of  the  American  Fur  Company  may  be  visited  whenever  the  com 
pany's  employes  go  there  to  trade  during  the  winter,  at  which  time  much  valuable  information 
may  be  acquired  concerning  the  Indians  and  the  general  features  of  their  country. 

It  is  desirable  to  make  collections  in  natural  history,  mineralogy  and  botany,  and  to  keep  a 
full  journal  of  all  of  interest  that  ti  inspires. 

You  will  remain  in  charge  of  this  post  until  the  1st  of  July  next,  or  until  relieved  by  orders 
from  myself.  I  shall  make  every  exertion  to  reach  Fort  Benton,  riciPuget  sound,  in  June  next. 

I  leave  with  you  the  printed  instructions  and  a  copy  of  the  letter  of  the  Commissioner  of  the 
Indian  Bureau,  authorizing  me  to  enter  into  negotiations  with  all  Indians  north  of  the  Mis 
souri,  not  included  in  existing  arrangements. 

Very  truly  and  respectfully, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Expedition. 

Mr.  DOTY. 


No.  12. 
[ORDER  No.  11.] 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Camp  Alchison,  Mouth  of  Milk  River,  August  19,  1853. 

The  plan  of  continuing  the  survey  to  Fort  Benton  in  two  parties,  determined  upon  at  Fort 
Union  and  announced  in  a  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  dated  August  8,  1853,  under  the 
respective  directions  of  Lieutenants  Donelson  and  Grovcr,  having  been  abandoned  at  the  junction 
of  the  two  camps  on  the  west  side  of  Big  Muddy  river,  the  following  arrangements  are  made, 
adapted  to  the  plan  now  in  execution  of  moving  in  one  line  by  Milk  river: 

1.  Lieutenant  Donelson  is  the  executive  officer  of  the  expedition.  Under  the  direction  of 
the  chief  of  the  expedition,  he  will  exercise  a  general  supervision  on  the  march,  and  in  camp 
regulate  the  details  of  guards,  supervise  the  inspection  of  arms,  and  see  generally  that  the 
orders  of  the  chief  of  the  expedition  are  executed.  He  will  take  general  charge  of  all  the 
observations,  connecting  them  with  the  odometer  survey,  the  work  of  the  reconnoitring 
officers  and  that  of  the  civil  engineers,  and  will  make  a  daily  report  in  relation  to  this  con 
nexion,  its  character,  scope,  and  completeness,  and  will,  as  the  assistant  of  the  chief  of  the 


42  GENERAL    ORDER. 

expedition  in  charge  of  the  observations,  submit  such  other  reports,  and  give,  in  his  name,  such 
directions  as  may  he  required.  Corporal  Cunningham  and  Artificer  Smith,  of  the  engineer 
detachment,  are  especially  assigned  to  duty  with  Lieutenant  Donelson. 

2.  Lieutenants  Grover  and  Mullan  are  placed  in  charge  of  the  magnetic  observations,  and 
Mr.   Stevens  is  relieved  therefrom.     Daily  observations  of  declination,   dips,  and  intensity, 
should  be  made  whenever  practicable.     These  observations,  in  importance  and  interest,  are 
secondary  to  none  in  the  expedition,  and  from  the  joint  labors  of  Lieutenants  Grover  and  Mul 
lan  the  best  results  are  expected.     Private  Roach,  of  the  engineer  detachment,  is  assigned  to 
duty  with  these  observations,  as  an  aid.     This  opportunity  must  be  availed  of  to  acknowledge 
the  services  of  Mr.  Stevens  in  this  department. 

3.  Lieutenant  Grover  is  also  requested  to  make  such  astronomical  observations  as  his  time 
and  circumstances  will  admit  of,  in  order  to  be  ready  to  take  charge  personally  of  all  observa 
tions  on  detached  service,  to  which  he  at  any  moment  may  be  assigned.     Much  is  expected  from 
his  known  energy,  activity,  and  ability  in  all  departments  of  the  expedition.     He  is  directed  to 
do   such    reconnoitring  as  may  be  compatible  with  his  other  duties,  and,  by  examination  of 
"•uides  and  Indians,  and  particularly  by  a  free  interchange  of  views  with  the  civil  engineers, 
gain  every  possible  information  in  reference  to  probable  routes — reporting  daily  to  the  chief  of 
the  expedition  in  relation  thereto. 

4.  Mr.  Stevens  is  continued  on  duty  as  the  astronomer  of  the  expedition.     Great  attention 
must  be  given  to  these  observations,  particularly  those  of  lunar  distances,  and  with  the  portable 
transit.     This  instrument  should  be  mounted  as  often  as  practicable,  and  it  is  believed  that  on 
reaching  Fort  Benton,  the  longitude  of  that  point,  and  the  rates  of  the  chronometers  can  by  it 
be  determined  with  great  accuracy. 

Messrs.  Doty  and  Graham  are  continued  on  duty  in  the  astronomical  department  as  assistants, 
and  thanks  are  returned  to  them  for  the  efficient  aid  they  have  already  rendered.  Mr.  West  is 
especially  commended  for  his  great  patience  and  fidelity  in  the  performance  of  his  duty,  and, 
with  Private  Wilson,  of  the  engineer  detachment,  is  also  continued  on  duty  as  an  aid. 

5.  The  meteorological  observations  are  continued  in  charge  of  Mr.  MofFett,  with  Mr.  Burr  as 
an  assistant,  and  Artificers  Davis  and  Lynt,  and  Private  Broadwell,  of  the  engineer  detachment, 
as  aids.     Mr.  MofTet's  industry,  perseverance,  and  success  in  overcoming  many  practical  dif 
ficulties,  and  in  faithfully  making  and  recording  a  large  number  of  observations,  are  acknow 
ledged.     In  addition  to  faithfully  assisting  in  the  camp  observations,  Mr.  Burr  has,  on  detached 
duty,  shown  a  high  spirit,  and  rendered  efficient  service. 

6.  The  civil  engineer  party  is  placed  on  the  following  basis:  Mr.  Lander,  with  Mr.  Evelyn 
as  assistant,  is  charged  with  the  duty  of  taking  large  views  of  country,  with  collecting  inform 
ation  in  reference  to  supplies,  the  location  of  the  road,  and  questions  of  transportation,  and, 
in  connexion  with  data  afforded  by  the  odometer  survey,  and  by  detached  parties,  estimates  and 
reports  upon  the  general  construction  and  location  of  the  road.     In  these  duties  Mr.  Tinkham 
wilUfce  associated  with  Mr.  Lander. 

Mr.  Lambert  is  placed  in  charge  of  the  odometer  survey,  with  Sergeant  Collins,  of  the  engi 
neer  detachment,  as  assistant  topographer,  and  Mr.  Bixby  to  run  the  compass  line.  The  civil 
engineers  and  the  topographer  will  make  daily  reports  to  the  chief  of  the  expedition. 

7.  The  artist  and  naturalist  of  the  expedition  will  act  under  the  immediate  instructions  of 
the  chief  of  the  expedition,  who  may,  however,  communicate  instructions  through  the  senior 
officer,  Lieutenant  Donelson.     The  same  remarks  will  apply  to  the  quartermaster  and  commis 
sary  agent  of  the  expedition,  Mr.  Osgood,  who  will  also,  in  relation  to  camps  and  marches,  act 
under  the  immediate  direction  of  the  executive  officer.     Mr.  Kendall  is  continued  on  duty, 
with  Mr.  Osgood  as  general  assistant,  and  Corporal  Coster,  of  the  dragoon  detachment,  in  the 
details  of  quartermaster  and  commissary  duties.     Mr.  Adams,  whose  services  as  assistant  topo 
grapher  from  the  Mississippi  to  Fort  Union,  both  on  the  line  of  the  odometer  survey  and  on 
reconnaissance,  have  been  of  great  value,  is  assigned  to  the  artist  as  an  assistant.     Private 


GENERAL    ORDER.  43 

Horner,  of  the  engineer  detachment,  is  continued  on  duty  with  the  naturalist,  as  an  aid.     The 
services  he  has  rendered  are  entitled  to  notice. 

8.  All  matters  petaining  to  Indians  will  be  referred,  in  all  cases  where  practicable,  to  the 
chief  of  the  expedition  ;  and  all  persons  are  enjoined  to  carry  out  the  mild,  humane,,  but  firm 
policy,  as  instructed  by  those  having  charge  of  our  Indian   affairs.     To  this  end  reasonable 
issues  of  provisions  will  be  made,  and,  under  regulation,  free  access  to  camp  will  be  permitted. 
But  all  men  arc  enjoined  to  be  on  their  guard,  and  the  general  deportment  of  the  camp  should 
l»e  vigilant  to  prevent  stampede  of  animals  and  the  loss  of  single  men. 

The  interpreters  employed  must  be  used  in  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  to  guard  against 
misunderstanding,  and  that  their  real  wants  may  be  known.  In  the  absence  of  the  chief  of 
the  expedition,  reference  must  be  had  to  Mr.  Culbertson,  special  agent  among  the  Blackfeet 
Indians. 

9.  The  chief  of  the  expedition  cannot  omit  this  opportunity  to  acknowledge  the  great  ser 
vices  of  Lieutenants  Donelson  and  Grover:    the  former  for  his  elaborate  survey  of   the  Mis 
souri  river  to  above  Fort  Union,  and  his  reconnaissance  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort 
Union,  from  the  White  Earth  to  the  Big  Muddy  rivers.     The  survey  of  the  Missouri,  prosecuted 
under  great  difficulties,  was  not  only  very  complete,  affording  even  the  data  for  prosecuting 
operations  to  make  it  more  navigable,  but  was  enriched  with  large  collections  in  geology  and 
natural  history,  and  illustrated  by  characteristic  views.     The  reconnaissance  from  the  White 
Earth  to  the  Big  Muddy  was  necessary  to  complete  the  work  of  the  overland  parties.     In  this 
work  the  services  of  Lieutenant  Mullan  and  Mr.  Graham  have  largely  contributed,  and  their 
services  deserve  special   commendation.     The  services   of  Sergeant  Collins,  of  the  engineer 
detachment,   particularly  in  the  topographical   survey  of  the  Missouri  river,  deserve  notice; 
they  not  only  reflect  credit  on  the  company  to  which  he  belongs,  but  bespeak  for  him  a  career 
of  future  usefulness. 

Lieutenant  Grover,  deflecting  from  the  course  of  the  main  party  at  an  early  stage  in  its 
march,  and  taking  charge  of  a  small  detached  party  at  a  period  when  such  service  was  con 
sidered  one  of  peril,  steadily  contended  with  and  overcame  all  obstacles  and  difficulties,  and, 
with  the  eye  of  an  engineer  marking  out  his  course,  reached  Fort  Union  seven  days  before  the 
main  party.  The  chief  of  the  expedition  would  do  injustice  to  his  appreciation  of  Lieutenant 
Grover's  services  if  he  failed  to  express  his  admiration  and  respect  for  them.  In  this  connexion 
is  noticed  the  valuable  aid  afforded  to  Lieutenant  Grover  by  Mr.  Evelyn,  in  charge  of  the  train, 
and  Corporal  Cunningham,  of  the  sappers  and  miners,  in  charge  of  the  odometer  and  compass 
on  that  line.  Their  services  are  deserving  of  warm  commendation. 

The  services  of  Lieutenant  Mullan  in  relation  to  the  survey  of  the  Missouri,  and  the  recon 
naissance  from  the  White  Earth  to  the  Big  Muddy  rivers,  have  been  of  the  most  marked 
character,  and  entitle  him  to  especial  commendation.  Particularly  has  he  brought  up  the 
meteorological  observations  to  a  proper  standard,  and  taken  charge  of  the  collections.  His 
services  in  training  assistants  have  been  most  valuable. 

Mr.  Graham,  who  had  charge  of  the  astronomical  observations  under  direction  of  Lieutenant 
Donelson,  deserves  especial  notice  for  his  efficient  services,  rendered  amidst  many  trying 
difficulties.  Acknowledgments  are  due  to  the  civil  engineers,  Messrs.  Lander  and  Tinkham: 
Mr.  Lander,  for  his  examination  and  report  on  the  crossing  of  the  Mississippi,  his  reconnais 
sance  of  the  Cheyenne  valley,  of  the  Dog's  House,  and  of  the  Mouse  river  and  the  Coteau  du 
Missouri,  and  for  the  consummate  judgment  and  great  experience  Avhich  he  has  brought  to  his 
department  of  the  work ;  and  Mr.  Tinkham,  for  the  admirable  compass  line,  connecting  the 
geographical  positions,  which  he  has  run  half  across  the  continent,  and  for  valuable  topo 
graphical  and  statistical  information  collected  on  the  route.  Mr.  Bixby,  in  charge  of  the 
compass,  did  not  even  seem  conscious  of  difficulties  or  obstructions  in  his  course. 

The  expedition  has  been  most  fortunate  in  its  surgeon  and  naturalist,  Dr.  Suckley.     Not 


44  ORDERS. 

only  a  scholar  and  gentleman,  beloved  by  all,  but  eminent  for  his  genius,  his  energy,  his  dili 
gence,  whose  efforts  have  been  felt  in  all  departments  of  the  expedition. 

The  artist,  Mr.  Stanley,  has  illustrated,  in  the  most  faithful  manner,  all  that  has  been 
done  and  seen.  The  topographer,  Mr.  Lambert,  has  shown  his  extraordinary  talent  in  his 
department  of  the  work,  and  to  great  professional  excellence  has  added  untiring  application. 

The  most  emphatic  acknowledgments  are  due  to  Mr.  Stevens,  the  astronomer  of  the  expedi 
tion,  for  his  perseverance  amidst  many  practical  difficulties,  and  for  his  cheerful  performance 
of  dutv  when  overtasked  with  work,  and  overloaded  with  the  duties  of  a  new  and  difficult 
department  not  contemplated  to  be  assigned  to  his  charge,  and  for  the  valuable  results  which 
he  has  contributed  to  the  expedition. 

The  sound  judgment,  steady  course,  and  great  integrity  of  the  disbursing  quartermaster  and 
commissary  agent,  Mr.  Osgood,  have  not  only  done  much  towards  overcoming  many  difficulties 
in  the  expedition,  and  to  establishing  kindly  relations  between  its  several  parts,  but  have  com 
manded  the  respect  and  won  the  affection  of  both  the  officers  and  men.  Mr.  Everett,  the  quar- 
master  and  commissary  clerk,  a  veteran  in  the  public  service,  has  been  to  all  an  example  of 
constancy  and  diligence.  Mr.  Kendall's  services  in  difficult  confidential  business  at  the  early 
stage  of  the  expedition,  in  connexion  with  instruments  and  supplies,  and,  at  a  later  period,  in 
charge  of  the  feeble  animals,  and  preparing  them  for  a  return  to  service,  were  in  the  highest 
degree  of  advantage  to  the  expedition,  and  are  gratefully  acknowledged. 

Mr.  Evans,  the  assistant  of  the  chief  of  the  expedition  in  the  custody  and  preparation  of 
papers,  orders,  &c.,  has  cheerfully  performed  his  varied  duties,  and  has  in  all  departments 
rendered  efficient  service. 

The  sappers  and  miners  on  duty  with  the  expedition  have,  by  their  labors,  added  to  its 
results,  and  will,  before  its  close,  identify  themselves  and  their  arm  with  every  one  of  the 
scientific  departments,  and  with  the  collections  and  surveys. 

Thanks  have  already  been  returned  to  the  guides  and  hunters,  the  detachment  of  dragoons, 
and  the  several  employes  of  the  quartermaster's  department;  but  the  present  occasion  is  availed 
of  to  repeat  the  grateful  acknowledgments  of  services,  and  to  say,  that  with  such  men  all 
obstacles  will  surely  be  overcome  in  the  accomplishment  of  the  great  objects  of  the  expedition. 

In  closing  this  order,  the  efficiency  of  Sergeant  Lindner,  (of  the  dragoon  detachment,)  of 
Sergeant  Higgins,  (the  wagonmaster,)  and  of  Sergeant  Simpson,  (the  pack-master,)  on  duty 
with  the  main  party,  and  of  Corporal  Coster  and  Mr.  Pierson  with  Lieutenant  Grover's  party, 
is  especially  commended. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 


No.  13. 
[ORDER  No.  1.] 

CAMP  PIERCE,  May  30,  1853. 

Lieutenant  Grover  having  requested  to  be  relieved  from  the  duties  of  acting  assistant  quar 
termaster  and  commissary  of  the  expedition  for  the  survey  and  exploration  of  a  railroad  from 
the  Mississippi  to  Puget  sound,  in  order  to  devote  his  time  to  the  performance  of  the  scientific 
duties  of  the  expedition,  and  Captain  Gardiner  having  consented  to  act  in  that  capacity, 
Lieutenant  Grover  is  relieved  from  that  duty,  and  Captain  Gardiner  will,  from  this  date,  act  as 
quartermaster  and  commissary. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 


ORDERS.  45 

No.  14. 
[ORDER  No.  2.] 

CAMP  PIERCE,  May  30,  1853. 

The  astronomical  and  magnetic  observations  are  intrusted  to  the  charge  of  George  W. 
Stevens,  Esq.,  and  Captain  A.  Remenyi,  who  will  alternate  daily  in  taking  charge  of  each  class 
of  observations.  Mr.  Stevens  will  at  first  take  charge  of  the  astronomical,  whilst  Captain 
Remenyi  will  have  care  of  the  magnetic,  and  thereafter  alternate  each  day.  Both  will  assist 
in  these  branches  of  labor,  a'nd  freely  confer  with  and  consult  each  other. 

Mr.  B.  F.  Kendall,  who  is  expected  to  arrive  shortly,  and  one  sapper,  will  be  assigned  to  Mr. 
Stevens,  and  one  sapper  and  Mr.  Yekelfoleusy  will  assist  Captain  Remenyi. 

Messrs.  Stevens  and  Remenyi  are  expected  to  instruct- their  respective  assistants  in  the  astro 
nomical  and  magnetic  observations,  the  use  of  instruments,  and  each  to  make  a  daily  report  in 
writing,  while  in  camp,  of  their  observations  and  labors,  particularly  stating  the  progress  each 
man  makes  under  their  instructions,  with  the  view  to  ascertain  the  character  of  the  duties 
which  such  assistants  are  best  adapted  to  perform. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 


No.  15. 
[ORDER  No.  3.] 

CAMP  PIERCE,  May  31,  1853. 

Mr.  Tinkham,  with  his  civil  engineers,  will  move  off  at  12  o'clock,  with  one  common  wagon, 
(to  be  replaced  hereafter  by  a  spring-wagon,)  and  the  second  mule  team  brought  up  on  the 
Shenandoah,  four  well  broken  riding-mules,  one  good  teamster,  provisions  for  fifteen  days, 
forage  for  five  days,  one  wall  and  one  common  tent,  two  Colt's  revolvers,  two  Sharp's  and  two 
ordinary  rifles,  with  the  necessary  ammunition. 

Captain  Gardiner  will  have  Mr.  Tinkham  fitted  out  as  above,  so  that  he  may  move  promptly 
at  12  o'clock. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 


No.  16. 
[ORDER  No.  4.] 

CAMP  PIERCE,  May  31,  1853. 

If  practicable,  six  wagons,  with  stores  not  needed  till  the  main  body  reaches  the  crossing  of 
the  Mississippi,  above  Sauk  rapids,  will  move  early  to-morrow  morning,  in  charge  of  a  suitable 
person  to  be  designated  by  Captain  Gardiner,  should  the  weather  be  propitious  ;  it  will  be  well 
to  load  the  wagons,  and  do  something  towards  breaking  in  the  animals  to-day. 

Instructions  have  been  given  to  Mr.  Lander  to  make  arrangements  for  the  crossing  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  the  wagonmaster  will,  if  practicable,  move  his  animals  across  the  river,  and 
place  them  in  a  good  camping  ground  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  main  body. 

Suitable  arms  and  ammunition  will  be  issued  to  the  train,  and  good  care  must  be  taken  of 
the  stores. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 


46  ORDERS. 

No.  IV. 

[OrxDER  No.  5.] 

CAMP  PIERCE,  June  5,  1853. 

Arrangements  will  be  made  to  move  camp  on  Monday  morning,  and  every  exertion  will  be 
made  to  reach  Sank  rapids  on  Friday,  and  cross  the  river  on  Saturday. 

The  officers  and  gentlemen  of  the  scientific  corps  will  take  the  boat  at  the  Falls  on  Monday, 
which  will  enable  them  to  reach  Sank  rapids  on  Tuesday  evening;  one  wagon,  and  the  riding- 
mule  of  each  person  of  the  party,  will  accompany  them. 

An  astronomical  and  magnetic  station  will  be  established  west  of  the  Sank  rapids. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 


No.  18. 
[ORDER  No.  6.] 

CAMP  DAVIS,  near  Sank  Eapids. 

There  will  be  an  inspection  of  camp  at  10  o'clock  this  morning.     This  will  include  an  inspec 
tion  of  personal  baggage  and  camp  equipage,  and  property  of  all  descriptions. 

The  officers  of  scientific  corps,  the  dragoon  detachment,  and  the  quartermasters,  will  be 
drawn  up. 

Lieutenant  Du  Barry  will  make  the  necessary  arrangements,   and   give   the  proper  notifi 
cations. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 


No.  19. 
[ORDER  No.  7.] 

CAMP  DAVIS,  June  13,  1853. 

For  purposes  of  convenience  in  detailing  guards,  and  to  give  a  military  organization  to  the 
entire  expedition,  the  following  gentlemen  are  appointed  to  the  grade  of  lieutenant:  Isaac  T. 
Osgood,  J.  M.  Stanley,  A.  W.  Tinkham,  F.  W.  Lander,  A.  Eernenyi,  Gr.  W.  Stevens,  John 
Lambert. 

The  following  assimilated  to  the  grade  of  non-commissioned  officers:  Joseph  F.  Moffett, 
James  Doty,  James  Evelyn,  James  Gear,  B.  F.  Kendall,  Thomas  Adams,  M.  Strobel,  Yekel- 
foleusy,  Simpson,  Higgins,  E.  Evans. 

The  remainder  will  be  detailed  with  artificers,  and  privates  of  sappers  and  miners,  and  pri 
vates  of  dragoons. 

The  medical  (Dr.  Suckley's)  position  is  assimilated  to  that  of  an  assistant  surgeon  in  the 
army,  and  dates  from  the  period  of  his  joining  the  expedition. 

The  parties  organized  under  the  several  chiefs  will,  on  coming  together,  preserve  their  dis 
tinctive  organization  ;  the  chief  of  the  expedition — in  his  absence  the  senior  officer  present — 
regulating  the  general  mode  of  encampment,  police,  and  supervising  the  details  of  guard.  The 
principle  of  the  foregoing  encampment  must  be  complied  with. 

It  is  considered  of  great  consequence  that  the  several  trains  should  not  be  intermingled ;  and 
the  dragoons  attached  to  the  several  parties  will  continue  with  them,  camping  and  working  with 
them,  receiving  their  orders  only  from  their  particular  chiefs,  even  when  the  whole  force  is 
brought  together. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 


ORDERS.  47 

No.  20. 
[ORDER  No.  8.] 

CAMP  NEAR  LIGHTNING  LAKE, 

July  19,  1853. 

The  most  rigid  economy  in  the  consumption  of  provisions  being  necessary,  the  caterer  of  each 
mess  will  carefully  note,  in  a  book  kept  for  the  purpose,  the  daily  amount  consumed  of  the 
various  articles  constituting  the  ration,  which  book  shall  be  daily  inspected  by  the  chief  of  each 
party. 

Whilst  in  the  game  country  the  quantity  of  pork  and  bacon  must  be  diminished.  Where  the 
supply  of  game  and  fish  is  sufficient  to  furnish  as  much  as  each  man  can  eat,  the  quantity  of 
pork  and  bacon  should  be  reduced  to  the  minimum — one-eighth  of  a  pound  a  clay. 

Caterers  of  messes  are  enjoined  also  to  note  the  amount  of  game,  fish,  &c.,  furnished  to  their 
respective  messes. 

When  parties  come  together,  the  hunters  and  guides  will  report  to  the  chief  of  the  expedi 
tion,  or,  in  his  absence,  to  the  senior  officer.  The  reason  for  this  is  obvious:  they  are  employed 
to  benefit  the  whole  expedition,  and  this  course  will  insure  the  best  result  in  procuring  and 
securing  an  equitable  distribution  of  supplies. 

It  is  made  the  duty  of  the  senior  officer  to  see  that  the  game  is  equitably  distributed,  as 
between  the  parties,,  and  of  the  chief  of  each  party  between  the  several  messes. 


No.  21. 
[ORDER  No.  9.] 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  KAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

9°  N.  W.  Fort  Union  Camp,  August  16,  1853. 

The  most  careful  attention  to  animals  is  enjoined  upon  all  persons  engaged  in  the  expedition, 
and  will  be  rigidly  enforced.  The  animals  must  not  go  beyond  a  walk,  except  in  case  of 
necessity;  and  each  mounted  man  must  walk  some  four  or  five  miles  each  day  to  rest  his  animal, 
unless  it  be  impracticable,  in  consequence  of  his  duties.  At  halts,  men  must  dismount.  This 
direction  will  be  enforced,  as  well  in  regard  to  private  as  to  public  animals. 

I.  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 


[ORDER  No.  10.] 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  KAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Camp  Atchison,  Mouth  of  Milk  River,  August  19,  1853. 

In  addition  to  the  regular  nightly  guard,  there  will,  commencing  with  to-day,  be  hereafter 
detailed  one  non-commissioned  officer  and  four  sentinels,  who  shall  constitute  a  day  guard,  and 
whose  duties  shall  be  regulated  as  follows : 

1.  The  detail  shall  be  made  from  a  roster,  consisting   of  all  persons  who  now  go  on  guard  as 
non-commissioned  officers,  who  shall  be  detailed,  in  turn,  as  non-commissioned  officers  of  this 
day  guard,  and  of  all  persons  who  are  now  subject  to  detail  as  sentinels,  who  shall  be  detailed, 
in  turn,  as  sentinels  of  the  day  guard ;  except  that  the  chief  wagonmasters,  the  persons  in  charge 
of  the  horses  and  of  the  pack-train,  the  carpenters  and  blacksmiths,  and  the  cooks,  shall  be 
excused  from  this  duty. 

2.  The  tour  of  the  day  guard  shall  commence  when  the  sentinels  of  the  night  guard  are  taken 
off  post  in  the  morning,  and  shall  terminate  when  those  sentinels  go  on  post  in  the  evening. 
They  shall  be  divided  into  reliefs,  and  regularly  posted,  prior  to  leaving  camp  in  the  morning, 
and  after  encamping  in  the  afternoon,  as  well  as  at  halts  made  during  the  day. 

3.  The  officer  of  the  guard  on  any  night  shall  have  charge  of  the  guard  of  the  subsequent 


48  ORDERS. 

day,  and  shall  enforce  the  orders  in  reference  thereto.  The  two  guards  should  otherwise  be 
kept  separate  and  distinct.  The  day  guard  should  be  so  arranged  that  it  shall  include  no 
person  who  may  be  on  the  night  guard ;  and  the  day  tour  ought,  if  possible,  to  be  intermediate 
between  two  of  his  night  tours. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Expedition. 


No.  22. 

[ORDER  No.  12.] 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  SURVEY, 

Camp  Atchison,  Mouth  of  Milk  Itivcr,  August  20,  1853. 

On  the  march  the  train  will  keep  as  much  together  as  possible  ;  the  speed  of  the  wagons  will 
be  regulated  by  Governor  Stevens' s  ambulance  or  wagon,  or  by  the  instrument  wagon.  The 
acting  quartermaster  will  regulate  the  pace  of  the  leading  team  in  such  a  manner  that  all  other 
teams  can  keep  up  without  forcing  the  mules.  No  person  except  guides,  or  those  having  per 
mission,  will  precede  the  train  by  more  than  one-fourth  of  a  mile,  or  go  farther  from  it  than 
that  distance,  unless  in  case  of  necessity,  or  for  the  performa.ice  of  some  duty. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Expedition. 


No.  23. 

[ORDER  No.  13.] 

CAMP  No.  — ,  MILK  RIVER, 

September  I,  1853. 

The  undersigned,  on  the  part  of  the  government,  of  the  chief  of  the  expedition,  and  for  him 
self,  as  being  directly  responsible,  returns  thanks  to  the  members  of  this  party  for  the  energy 
and  promptitude  they  displayed  in  taking  precautionary  measures  against  the  prairie  fires  on  the 
night  of  the  30th  and  morning  of  the  31st  of  August. 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 
Lieutenant  Engineers,  Executive  Officer. 


No.  24. 
[ORDER  No.   14.] 

CAMP  No.  — ,  MILK  RIVER, 

September  1,  1853. 

I.  No  animal  should  go  beyond  a  walk,  except  in  case  of  necessity.     No  man  should  leave  the 
line  without  permission  of  the  officer  in  charge. 

II.  The  mules  and  horses,  after  being  watered,  are  to  be  picketed  within  the  line  of  tents  and 
wagons,  at  the  first  bugle-call  after  coming  into  camp  ;  oxen  to  be  hobbled  at  the  same  time. 
Daily  reports  of  animals  to  be  rendered  to  the  quartermaster,  according  to  the  following  pro 
gramme :   1.  Report  to  be  rendered  immediately  after  the  animals  are  picketed  in  the  evening. 
2.  The  report  to  state  the  number  and  condition  of  the  animals,  and  whether  they  have  been 
properly  picketed.     3.  Mr.  Higgins  to  report  concerning  all  the  animals  at  present  under  his 
charge,  including  that  ridden  by  the  cook  of  the  teamster's  mess  ;  Mr.  French,  concerning  all 
loose  horses,  those  ridden  by  persons  of  his  party,  those  ridden  by  the  hunters,  and  that  of  the 
cook  of  his  mess  ;  Mr.  Pearson  to  report  concerning  all  mules,  horses,  and  oxen  belonging  to 
the  cart  train  ;  Sergeant  Collins  and  Sergeant  Lindner,  concerning  all  mules  and  horses  ridden 


ORDERS.  49 

respectively  by  sappers  and  dragoons;  Mr.  Simpson  to  report  upon  all  loose  mules,  all  mules 
ridden  by  persons  of  his  party,  including  that  of  the  cook  of  his  mess  and  those  driven  in  the 
carts.  The  other  reports  to  be  rendered  by  messes,  the  chief  of  each  to  report  concerning  the 
horses  and  mules  ridden  by  persons  of  the  mess,  including  cooks  and  attendants,  and  excepting 
any  which  are  to  be  accounted  for  by  other  persons.  4.  The  persons  in  charge,  or  who  render 
the  above  reports,  are  also  held  responsible  for  a  compliance,  both  in  camp  and  on  the  march, 
with  all  the  orders  in  reference  to  animals.  5.  The  quartermaster  will,  in  the  evening,  after 
receiving  the  above  reports,  state  in  general  terms  their  substance  to  the  senior  officer  present. 

III.  Extra  issues  of  flour  are  not  to  be  made,  except  in  reference  to  the  chief  of  the  expedition, 
or,  in  his  absence,  to  the  senior  officer  present. 

IV.  No  changes  will  be  made  in  the  employment  of  persons,  or  in  the  use  of  animals  which 
come  under  the  charge  of  the  quartermaster,  except  by  his  permission,  and  he  will  report  any 
such  changes  to  the  senior  officer  as  soon  after  they  are  made  as  practicable.     The  quarter 
master  will  also  report  to  the  senior  officer  prior  to  the  abandonment  of  any  portion  of  the  train, 
or  in  cases  of  a  similar  nature  which  may  arise.     No  changes  will  be  made  in  the  employment 
of  persons,  or  in  the  use  of  the  animals  not  under  the  direction  of  the  quartermaster,  except  by 
permission  of  the  senior  officer  present. 

V.  While  in  camp,  no  person  will  fire  within  one  hundred  yards  of  the  line  of  wagons  and 
tents.     No  person  will  fire  while  on  the  march  without  special  permission  of  the  senior  officer 
present.     All  persons  are  required  to  keep  within  at  least  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  wagon 
train,  except  those  who  belong  to  the  cart  train,  which  is  generally  separate,  unless  they  leave 
for  the  performance  of  some  duty,  or  by  special  permission.     This  requires  that  all  persons 
should  halt  when  the  train  does,  and  leave  camp,  and  halt,  at  the  same  time  with  it. 

VI.  Every  one  riding,  or  having  charge  of  horses  and  mules,  is  required  to  take  every  pre 
caution  for  preserving  them  in  good  order  and  condition,  dismounting  at  halt,  taking  the  bits 
from  the  animals'  mouths  when  occasion  offers  for  grazing,  and  resting  them  by  walking  some 
portion  of  every  day's  march.     So  much  of  the  order  now  in  existence  as  requires  the  walking  to 
take  place  immediately  after  the  noon  halt  is,  for  the  present,  suspended. 

On  account  of  the  danger  of  losing  animals  by  Indians,  the  greatest  vigilance  is  required  on 
the  part  of  guard  and  sentinels,  and  the  greatest  care  on  the  part  of  those  who  have  charge  of 
picketing  the  mules  and  horses. 

VII.  The  foregoing — partly  new  orders,  partly  orders  already  in  existence — are  here  published 
in  order  that  every  one  may  know  what  is  required  of  him,  and  what  restrictions  are  adopted 
for  the  safety  and  good  order  of  the  train  while  in  camp  and  on  the  march. 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 
Lieutenant  Engineers,  Senior  Officer. 

ENDORSEMENTS  ON  THE  ABOVE. 

This  order,  which  is  no  more  nor  less  than  a  salutary  and  reasonable  restriction,  imposed  for 
the  general  good  on  every  person  of  the  command,  must  hereafter  be  obeyed.  As  a  matter  of 
course,  the  senior  officer  present  with  the  train  is  responsible  for  the  orderly  march  thereof. 
Every  person  having  the  command,  assimilated  or  otherwise,  of  a  body  of  men,  is  responsible 
that  they  obey  orders,  and  all  persons  who  are  not  under  the  command  or  charge  of  any  second 
person,  are  directly  accountable  for  a  compliance  with  existing  orders  to  the  senior  officer  actually 
present  with  the  train. 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 
Lieutenant  Engineers,  Senior  Officer. 


50  ORDERS. 

CAMP  No.  59,  September  3,  1853. 

The  within  orders  not  having  been  carried  by  the  orderly  to  all  the  persons  concerned,  they 
are  now  sent  around  again.  Attention  is  called  to  the  paragraph  in  reference  to  firing  on  the 
march.  While  no  objection  exists  to  hunting  or  shooting  game  where  those  wishing  to  do  so 
are,  by  permission  or  on  duty,  away  from  the  line,  it  is  manifestly  injurious  to  the  service  that 
the  march  of  a  line  of  80  men  and  192  animals  should  be  exposed  to  accident  or  delay  by  per 
sons  firing  indiscriminately  at  game  which  may  come  near  the  train,  particularly  when  there 
are  hunters  whose  duty  it  is  to  kill  and  bring  in  fresh  meat. 


No.  25. 
[ORDER  No.  15.] 

CAMP  No.  GO,  September  5,  1853. 

To-morrow  morning,  before  starting,  and  after  the  mules  are  hitched  to  the  wagons,  all 
the  horses  and  mules  which  are  ridden,  as  well  as  all  loose  horses  and  mules,  will  be  arranged 
in  a  line  for  being  inspected.  The  team  mules  and  oxen  will  be  inspected  while  they  are 
harnessed  up.  The  cooks  will  be  awakened  at  daybreak  ;  the  animals  will  be  turned  loose  to 
graze  at  the  same  time  ;  breakfast  will  be  at  5^  o'clock,  tents  struck  and  teams  harnessed  at  six. 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 
Lieutenant  Engineers,  Executive  Officer. 


No.  26. 
[ORDER  No.  16.] 

CAMP  DOBBIN,  NEAR  FORT  BENTON, 

September  9,  1853. 

In  obedience  to  the  assignment  of  the  chief  of  the  expedition,  as  expressed  in  instructions 
dated  the  7th  instant,  and  received  this  day,  the  undersigned  hereby  assumes  charge  of  the 
party  for  the  survey  of  the  railroad  route  from  this  point,  through  Cadotte's  Pass,  to  the  St. 
Mary's  village,  as  designated  in  said  instructions,  or  in  others  of  a  similar  nature.  This  party 
consists  of  the  following  persons,  viz : 

Lieutenant  A.  J.  Donelson,  in  charge;  Dr.  George  Suckley,  surgeon  and  naturalist;  Mr.  A. 
W.  Tinkham,  estimating  engineer;  Mr.  G.  W.  Stevens,  astronomer;  Mr.  John  Lambert,  in 
charge  of  odometer  survey;  Mr.  Joseph  F.  MofFett,  meteorologist,  &c.  ;  Mr.  James  Doty,  assist 
ant  astronomer;  Mr.  Thomas  Adams,  assistant  artist;  Mr.  B.  F.  Kendall,  assistant  to  quarter 
master;  Mr.  P.  Higgins,  wagonmaster;  Mr.  James  Simpson,  pack-master  and  in  charge  of 
loose  mules;  Mr.  Henry  Pierson,  assistant  wagonmaster ;  Mr.  French,  in  charge  of  loose  horses  ; 
Mr.  West,  carrying  chronometers ;  Sergeant  Collins,  sapper,  assistant  in  odometer  survey ;  Artisan 
Davis,  sapper,  assistant  to  meteorologist;  Artisan  Lynt,  sapper,  assistant  to  meteorologist; 
Artisan  Smith,  sapper,  second  assistant  on  odometer  survey;  Private  Broadwell,  sapper,  assist 
ant  to  meteorologist ;  Private  Homer,  sapper,  assistant  to  Dr.  Suckley;  Private  Roche,  sapper, 
assistant  to  Mr.  Stevens;  Private  Wilson,  sapper,  assistant  to  Mr.  Doty;  Sergeant  Lindner, 
dragoon,  commissary  sergeant  and  assistant  guide;  Corporal  Roaster,  dragoon,  assistant  com 
missary  sergeant  and  assistant  guide;  Corporal  Coster,  dragoon,  in  charge  of  howitzer ;  Cor 
poral  Lake,  dragoon,  in  command  of  rear  guard;  Corporal  Chowming,  dragoon,  in  charge  of 
pitching  and  striking  tents;  Private  Magruder,  dragoon,  on  detail  for  tents;  Privates  Ashcroft, 
Dittman,  Otes,  Hoggins,  Smith,  Donavan,  Goerkey,  Gauss,  Flinn,  Magahran,  and  Maxfield; 
Teamsters  McGee  and  Wilson,  Lieutenant  Donelson's  team ;  Teamsters  McGinnis,  Bell,  and 
Monroe,  Mr.  Osgood's  team;  Teamsters  Gear  and  Agncw.,  instrument  wagon;  Teamsters  Davis, 
Bracken,  Saint  Louis,  Dume,  Winn,  and  Mitchelle;  Saddler,  Michelback;  Blacksmith,  Bashall ; 


ORDERS. — CAMP    REGULATIONS.  51 

Pelissier  and  Camartin,  in  charge  of  loose  mules;  Benoit,  Duprey,  Corri,  Seeley,  Nye,  Farnham, 
Simpson,  jr.,  Dauphin,  William,  Hudson,  Osborne  1st,  Osborne  2d,  George  Smith,  Hugh 
Robie,  and  Baptiste ;  Indian  Yellow  Hair,  guide. 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 
Lieutenant  Engineers,  in  Command. 


No.  27. 
[ORDER  No.  17.] 

CAMP  DOBBIN,  September  11,  1853. 

The  quartermaster  having  reported  that  the  repairs  and  other  arrangements  which  were  re 
quired  would  be  completed  this  day,  the  scientific  parties  and  the  train  will  start  for  the  Flat- 
head  village  as  early  as  possible  to-morrow  morning.  Attention  is  called  to  the  orders  which 
exist  in  reference  to  duties  in  camp  and  on  the  march.  These  must  hereafter  be  obeyed.  Per 
sons  in  charge  are  held  responsible  for  those  who  compose  their  parties  ;  thus  the  quartermaster 
is  responsible  for  all  employed  in  that  department,  Mr.  Higgins  for  the  teamsters,  Mr.  Simpson 
for  the  packers,  &c.  The  principal  of  the  orders  are  herewith  sent  around  by  the  orderly  to 
the  chiefs  of  parties,  and  their  contents  will  by  them  be  communicated  to  those  under  their 
charge. 

The  portion  of  the  command  which  has  been  designated  as  an  advance,  will,  for  reasons 
growing  out  of  the  approach  of  Lieutenant  Saxton  and  return  of  Lieutenant  Grover,  for  the 
present  accompany  the  main  train. 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 
Lieutenant  Engineers,  in  Command. 


No.  28. 

CAMP  REGULATIONS. 

1.  There  is  no  such  thing  as  an  escort  to  this  expedition.     Each  man  is  escorted  by  every 
other  man.     The  chiefs  of  the  scientific  corps  will  equally  with  the  officers  of  the  army  act  as 
officers  of  the  guard.     The  aids  will  assist  in  this  duty  equally  with  the  non-commissioned 
officers  of  the  sappers  and  miners,  and  of  the  dragoon  detachment.     The  quartermaster  em 
ployes  will  stand  guard  equally  with  the  privates,  and  sappers  and  miners,  and  dragoons. 
It  is  confidently  believed,  that  every  member  of  the  expedition  will  cheerfully  do  his  duty  in 
promoting  all  the  objects  of  the  expedition,  sharing  its  toils  of  every  description. 

2.  Each  man  of  the  expedition  will  habitually  go  armed.     The  chief  of  each  party  and  de 
tachment  will  rigidly  inspect  arms  each  morning  and  evening.     Except  in  extraordinary  cases, 
there  shall  be  no  march  on  Sunday.     On  that  day  there  will  be  a  thorough  inspection  of  persons 
and  things.     Clothes  should  be  washed  and  mended,  and,  if  water  can  be  found,  each  man  will 
be  required  to  bathe  his  whole  person.     This  course  is  taken  to  secure  health. 

3.  The  Indian  country  will  be  reached  in  ten  days.     There  is  no  danger  to  be  apprehended, 
except  from  the  want  of  vigilance  of  guards,  and  the  carelessness  of  single  men.     The  chief  of 
a  party  or  detachment  will  inspect  the  guard  from  time  to  time  in  the  night,  and  report  every 
case  of  inattention  to  duty. 

4.  It  will  be  the  habitual  rule  of  each  member  of  the  scientific  corps  to  take  charge  of  his 
own  horse,  and  to  take  from  and  place  in  the  wagon  his  own  personal  baggage.      As  private 
servants  are  not  allowed,  the  necessity  of  this  rule  will  be  apparent.     There  are  exceptional 
cases,  however,  as  the  chief  of  a  party,  or  where  great  labor  has  to  be  performed. 

5.  There  will  be  no  firing  of  any  description,  either  in  camp  or  on  the  march,  except  by  the 


52  LETTERS    TO    CAPT.    GARDINER    AND    TO    THE    SECRETARY    OF   WAR. 

hunters  and  guides,  and  certain  members  of  the  scientific  corps,  without  permission  of  the  chief 
of  the  expedition,  or,  in  case  of  detachments,  of  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  detachment. 


No.  29. 

CAMP  PIERCE,  June  3,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  It  is  with  great  regret  that  I  learn  from  your  letter  of  this  date,  enclosing  the 
certificate  of  Dr.  Suckley,  the  medical  officer  of  the  expedition,  that  in  consequence  of  your 
health  you  are  obliged  to  ask  to  be  relieved  from  duty  with  the  expedition  under  my  command. 

I  have  looked  forward  to  your  co-operation  as  a  great  element  in  the  success  of  the  expedi 
tion,  bringing  as  it  would  the  very  experience  to  the  work  in  which  the  other  officers  associated 
with  us  and  myself  are  deficient.  But  I  see  no  alternative,  observing  as  I  have  done  the  state 
of  your  health,  with  your  application,  and  the  certificate  of  Dr.  Suckley  before  me,  than 
promptly  to  comply  with  your  request. 

You  may  be  sure  I  shall  never  forget  the  lively  interest  you  have  taken  in  the  success  of  the 
expedition,  the  exertion  you  have  made  to  forward  it,  and  your  efficient  assistance  in  making 
the  preparations  for  the  field.  You  are  accordingly  relieved  from  the  duty  with  the  command, 
and  are  directed  to  repair  to  Washington  city  and  report  for  duty. 

[Unimportant  paragraph  omitted.] 

I  will  personally  discharge  the  duties  of  quartermaster  and  commissary  of  the  expedition, 
and  will  sign  the  necessary  papers  whenever  they  shall  be  prepared. 

Truly  your  friend, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Expedition. 
Capt.  J.  W.  T.  GARDINER, 

First  Dragoons,  U.  S.  Army. 


NORTHERN  PACIFIC  KAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Olympia,  W.  T.,  December  5,  1853, 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  report  my  arrival  at  this  place,  and  to  submit  the  following  state 
ment  of  operations  since  my  report  from  Fort  Benton.  Before  entering  upon  the  narrative,  it 
will  be  proper  for  me  to  state  that  I  feel  the  greatest  satisfaction  at  the  complete  success  of  the 
exploration,  and  that  the  report  will  show  an  amount  of  work  reflecting  the  highest  credit  upon 
my  associates.  No  disaster  or  untoward  circumstance  has  marred  the  work.  The  parties  have 
reached  the  Columbia  river  in  the  highest  spirits — no  man  broken  down  by  over-exertion  or 
unnecessary  exposure.  The  three  great  western  ranges  have  been  crossed  in  the  fall;  no  snow 
whatever  seen,  except  on  the  topmost'  peaks  till  the  last  days  of  October,  and  then  only  for  a 
few  inches,  passing  away  in  two  or  three  days.  I  can  pronounce,  with  the  greatest  confidence, 
the  route  to  be  eminently  practicable ;  and  in  so  doing,  I  feel  repaid  for  the  great  exertions  I 
have  made,  and  the  great  anxiety  which  at  times  has  almost  overcome  me,  in  preparing  for  and 
conducting  the  exploration.  I  am  confident  that  when  our  contributions  in  the  way  of  general 
geography,  and  in  the  development  of  the  resources  and  character  of  the  country  passed  over, 
are  given  to  the  public,  it  will  be  conceded  that  a  public  advantage  has  accrued  far  outweigh 
ing  the  expenditure,  even  should  other  railroad  routes  be  finally  determined  on.  Moreover, 
the  exploration  has  been  a  vital  clement  in  the  management  of  the  Indian  tribes,  restraining 
their  predatory  habits,  and  disposing  them  to  rely  upon  the  general  government  to  guaranty  to 
them  peace  and  protect  them  in  their  rights. 

In  the  narrative  of  operations  which  I  shall  now  present,  the  several  letters  of  instructions  will 
be  referred  to,  and  copies  of  the  same  given  in  an  appendix  ;  and  such  results  will  be  stated 
as  can  be  relied  on,  previous  to  a  careful  analysis  and  comparison  of  all  the  data  in  the  office. 


LETTER    TO    THE    SECRETARY   OF   WAR.  53 

In  my  report  from  Fort  Benton,  my  reasons  were  given  for  pushing  all  the  parties  through 
Cadotte's  Pass,  and  for  abandoning  the  examination  of  the  Marias. 

Previous,  however,  to  this  conclusion,  Lieutenant  Mullan  had  set  out  from  Fort  Benton  to 
visit  the  Flathead  camp  on  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  and  thence  to  explore  a  more  southern  route 
to  the  St.  Mary's  valley. 

Lieutenant  Donelson  moved  from  his  camp  on  the  Teton  river,  September  1C,  and  pressed 
forward  vigorously  to  his  work,  with  two  efficient  civil  engineer  parties  under  Messrs.  Lander 
and  Tinkham  for  side  reconnaissance  and  the  general  estimate,  and  an  odometer  party  under 
that  most  able  topographer,  Mr.  Lambert.  I  remained  at  Fort  Benton  till  Mr.  Stanley 
returned,  on  the  20th  September,  with  a  large  delegation  of  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  when  a  most 
amicable  and  satisfactory  council  was  held  with  them  on  the  next  day,  at  which  they  agreed  to 
respect  all  whites  travelling  through  their  country,  to  cease  sending  their  war  parties  against 
the  neighboring  tribes,  and  to  submit  to  the  Great  Father  the  settlement  of  their  difficulties. 
One  of  their  principal  chiefs,  Low  Hone,  in  a  speech  of  great  eloquence  and  power,  implored 
his  people,  now  for  the  first  time  they  had  experienced  the  protecting  care  of  the  Great  Father, 
to  listen  to  his  words;  and  he  commanded  them  to  abide  by  the  promises  just  made  in  council. 
He  desired  me  to  say  to  all  the  Indians  west  of  the  mountains  that  the  Blackfeet  were  no  longer 
their  enemies,  and  that  they  desired  to  meet  them  in  council  at  Fort  Benton  next  year.  This  I 
deem  a  measure  essential  to  establishing  a  general  peace,  and  have,  in  a  communication  to 
the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs,  earnestly  recommended  it. 

This  business  brought  to  so  satisfactory  a  conclusion  on  the  21st  September,  I  set  out  early  on 
the  22d  with  a  select  party,  consisting  of  Mr.  Stanley,  the  artist,  Mr.  Osgood,  the  disbursing 
agenj,  and  Dr.  Suckley,  our  surgeon,  who,  leaving  Lieutenant  Donelson's  command  to  visit  the 
falls,  was  not  able  to  rejoin  it,  and  returned  to  Fort  Benton.  Messrs.  Evans  and  Kendall,  two 
young  gentlemen,  kept  behind  to  assist  me  in  my  correspondence,  and  five  voyageurs  and  an 
Indian  guide  ;  and  camping  with  Lieutenant  Donelson  at  the  end  of  the  fourth  day,  I  reached 
the  St.  Mary's  village  at  noon  on  the  28th  instant,  making  a  distance  of  about  two  hundred  and 
forty-three  miles  in  six  and  a  half  days.  Lieutenant  Douelson  reached  the  village  on  the  29th 
instant,  and  Lieutenant  Mullan  on  the  30th.  In  Lieutenant  Donelson's  exploration  of  the 
route  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  Mr.  Lander  was  very  successful  in  approach 
ing  the  mountains  high  up  at  the  Marias  river,  and  towards  the  sources  of  the  Teton,  Medicine, 
and  Dearborn  rivers,  and  entered  the  mountains,  finding  in  each  case  excellent  railroad  cross 
ings,  and  crossed  the  dividing  ridge  some  miles  north  of  the  pass  pursued  by  both  Lieutenants 
Donelson  and  Saxton,  bringing  with  him  an  excellent  railroad  line  to  the  junction  of  the  two 
routes  in  the  main  pass.  As  regards  both  entrances  to  the  pass,  a  small  tunnel  will  be 
required  in  each  case — not,  however,  exceeding  one  mile  in  length ;  and  the  grades  approach 
ing  the  passes  will  not  probably  exceed  forty  or  forty-five  feet  per  mile.  The  descent  down 
the  Hell  Gate  river  was  mostly  through  an  open  valley,  till  the  Hell  Gate  passage  is  reached, 
where  the  river  winds  in  a  narrow  defile,  requiring  for  a  railroad  expensive  sustaining  walls 
and  embankments,  and  probably  some  small  tunnels  to  avoid  short  curves. 

It  is  practicable,  though  expensive,  for  a  railroad. 

It  can  be  turned,  however,  two  ways :  1st,  by  tunnelling  a  marble  mountain  south  of  it  on 
the  route  of  Lieutenant  Saxton,  and  in  relation  to  which  I  shall  soon  receive  a  report;  and,  2d, 
by  crossing  over  from  a  tributary  of  the  Hell  Gate  in  the  open  valley  of  the  pass  to  the  valley  of 
the  river  Jocko,  one  of  the  principal  southern  tributaries  of  Clark's  fork.  Mr.  Tinkham  was 
assigned  by  Lieutenant  Donelson  to  this  duty,  and  with  his  detached  party  left  the  main  party 
on  the  26th  September,  with  instructions  to  reach  Fort  Benton  in  six  days.  Reserving  to  a 
future  paragraph  a  notice  of  this  important  side  route  of  Mr.  Tinkham,  I  will  notice  Lieutenant 
Mullan 's  route;  simply  stating  that  the  two  routes  come  together  at  the  Hell  Gate  passage,  and 
that  the  St.  Mary's  valley  affords  an  excellent  railroad  line,  not  only  to  the  St.  Mary's  village, 
but  high  up  towards  its  source. 


54  LETTER   TO    THE    SECRETARY    OF   WAR. 

Lieutenant  Mullan,  as  the  department  has  already  been  advised,  left  Fort  Benton  on  the  9th 
instant,  and  struck  the  Muscle  Shell  river  on  the  13th.  After  following  the  trail  of  the  Flat- 
head  camp  eastward  twenty  miles  to  a  pond,  and  thence  twenty  miles  farther  in  a  southeastern 
direction,  over  a  rough  and  difficult  country,  he  found  it  still  five  days  ahead  of  him,  and  deter 
mined  to  place  his  party  in  camp,  and  with  his  Indian  guide  follow  on  the  trail.  The  Flathead 
camp  was  found  sixty  or  seventy  miles  distant,  in  a  beautiful  valley,  and  he  was  received  with 
the  greatest  hospitality.  Four  of  the  principal  chiefs  agreed  to  accompany  him  to  the  St. 
Mary's  village.  His  route  was  by  the  north  fork  of  the  Muscle  Shell,  thence  by  an  excellent 
prairie  road  to  Smith's  river,  which  flows  into  the  Missouri  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  and 
which  he  followed  for  a  considerable  distance ;  when  finding  it  to  lead  too  far  to  the  north,  he  left 
it  and  crossed  to  the  Missouri  over  an  easy  divide,  and  struck  it  at  a  point  where  a  most  excel 
lent  road  led  westward  some  twenty  miles  to  the  dividing  ridge,  whence  rises  the  main  fork  of 
the  Bitter  Root  river.  This  dividing  ridge  he  crossed  the  second  day  after  leaving  the  Missouri, 
the  divide  being  only  four  hundred  feet  high  and  three  miles  across,  and  proving  the  only  diffi 
cult  point  of  passage  in  his  route  from  Fort  Benton.  Thence  his  route  was  by  the  Blackfoot 
fork  of  the  St.  Mary's  river,  and  the  St.  Mary's  river  to  Fort  Owen.  The  valleys  open  the  whole 
distance,  except  in  the  case  of  a  single  mountain  shutting  down  upon  the  river  bank,  and 
making  a  light  side  cutting  necessary  to  a  good  wagon  road,  and  the  grades  scarcely  percepti 
ble  either  for  rails  or  wagons  the  whole  distance. 

Immediately  on  reaching  the  St.  Mary's  village,  Lieutenant  Arnold,  in  charge  of  the  post 
left  there  by  Lieutenant  Saxton,  sent  for  Victor,  the  Flathead  chief,  (the  small  remnant  of  the 
tribe  not  on  the  hunt  east  of  the  mountains,  and  in  camp  some  forty  miles  down  the  river,)  for 
a  conference  in  reference  to  the  condition  of  the  tribe,  its  disposition  towards  meeting  the 
Blackfeet  in  council,  and  to  communicate  the  determination  of  the  government  to  protect  them 
in  their  rights.  A  portion  of  the  camp  moved  up  to  the  village  and  met  the  chiefs  who  accom 
panied  Lieutenant  Mullan.  Victor,  however,  was  absent  on  business  to  the  Cceur  d'Alene 
mission,  and  I  did  not  meet  him  for  some  days.  The  conference  was  satisfactory,  and  impressed 
me  very  favorably  as  regards  the  truthfulness  and  worth  of  these  Indians.  The  spirit  of  my 
conference,  as  well  as  that  of  Lieutenant  Mullan,  will  appear  from  my  instructions  to  him  at 
Fort  Benton,  which  have  already  been  communicated  to  the  department,  and  his  report,  a  copy 
of  which  I  herewith  enclose.  I  will  particularly  call  your  attention  to  his  account  of  the  fertile 
valleys  of  the  Muscle  Shell  and  Smith's  rivers,  to  the  mild  climate  west  of  the  Missouri,  and 
the  rich  and  abundant  grass  on  the  whole  route.  The  same  luxuriance  of  the  grasses  is  every 
where  found  in  the  valleys  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  adjacent  prairies. 

On  my  arrival  at  Fort  Owen,  the  importance  of  establishing  the  winter  post  already  deter 
mined  upon  was  only  the  more  apparent,  and  fifteen  men  were  placed  on  duty  with  Lieutenant 
Mullan.  Unfortunately  but  few  of  the  animals  left  by  Lieutenant  Saxton  were  fit  for  service, 
and  were  all  needed  for  the  parties  going  westward  over  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains. 

The  remaining  animals  were,  however,  gradually  improving,  and  would,  it  was  believed, 
furnish  Lieutenant  Mullan  in  the  course  of  ten  weeks  the  means  of  running  a  line  down  to 
Fort  Hall  to  connect  our  surveys  with  those  of  Fremont.  By  referring  to  a  copy  of  his  instruc 
tions,  herewith  enclosed  and  marked  2,  it  will  be  seen  that  he  has  likewise  had  assigned  to  him 
the  duty  of  extending  the  survey  northward,  of  making  all  possible  examination  of  the  passes, 
and  to  occupy  a  meteorological  post  during"  the  winter.  Very  good  specimens  of  gold  have 
been  found  in  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  and  Lieutenant  Mullau's  attention  has  been  specially 
called  to  it  in  these  instructions. 

Lieutenant  Dohelson  was  placed  in  command  of  the  principal  party  with  the  civil  engineer 
Mr.  Lander,  and  Lieutenant  Arnold  associated  with  Mr.  Stevens  in  the  astronomical  obser 
vations,  and  also  in  charge  of  a  separate  party  for  side  reconnaissance.  It  was  now  important 
to  give  such  directions  to  the  operations  as  to  insure  a  connection  between  the  eastern  and 
western  divisions  of  the  survey ;  and  whilst  Lieutenant  Donelson  was  moving  along  the  general 


LETTER    TO    THE    SECRETARY   OF    WAR.  55 

line  of  Clark's  fork,  I  determined  with  a  little  party,  consisting  of  Mr.  Stanley,  Mr.  Osgood, 
and  four  men,  to  push  over  the  Co3ur  d'Alene  mountains  by  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mission,  and 
thence  to  proceed  to  Colville  to  bring  about  a  connection.  To  guard  against  Captain  McClellan 
passing  us,  Lieutenant  Donelson  was  instructed  to  send  Lieutenant  Arnold  to  Colville  from  the 
crossing  of  Clark's  fork  by  the  northern  trail,  and  to  repair  to  the  Spokane  house,  on  the 
Spokane  river,  to  receive  additional  instructions.  He  was  directed  in  his  instructions  to  Lieu 
tenant  Arnold  to  provide  for  his  not  meeting  Captain  McClellan  or  receiving  instructions  from 
me,  and  was  likewise  directed,  in  case  of  a  similar  experience  on  his  own  part,  to  push  forward 
on  his  own  route,  either  by  Wallah- Wallah  or  the  valley  of  the  Yakima,  and  thence  over  the 
military  road  to  Nisqually,  taking  the  precaution,  however,  to  communicate  in  any  event  with 
Wallah-Wallah  for  instructions. 

I  likewise  determined  to  assign  that  resolute  and  intelligent  civil  engineer,  Mr.  Tinkham,  to 
the  duty  of  examining  the  Marias  Pass,  of  returning  by  the  main  Flathead  trail  to  St.  Mary's, 
thence  by  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail  to  Wallah- Wallah,  and  thence  on  the  military  road  to 
Nisqually  and  Olympia. 

To  bring  about  a  thorough  understanding  as  to  the  mutual  relations  of  the  work  intrusted 
to  Lieutenant  Mullan  and  Mr.  Doty,  on  the  two  sides  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  it  seemed  to  me 
important  that  Mr.  Doty  should  accompany  Mr.  Tinkham  to  St.  Mary's  to  confer  with  Lieuten 
ant  Mullan,  and  then  to  return  by  a  known  trail  to  Fort  Benton. 

This  general  plan  being  determined  upon,  the  necessary  verbal  instructions  were  given  to 
Lieutenants  Donelson  and  Mullan  on  their  arrival.  Under  Lieutenant  Donelson's  instructions, 
Mr.  Lander  was  assigned  to  the  duty  of  exploring  the  whole  of  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  and  of 
meeting  the  main  party  in  the  Horse  Plain,  nearly  opposite  the  confluence  of  the  two  streams. 
But  a  serious  embarrassment  now  occurred  in  consequence  of  the  non-arrival  of  Mr.  Tinkham. 
Fortunately,  all  the  parties  had  a  common  route  down  the  valley  for  some  thirty  odd  miles  to 
opposite  Hell  Gate.  On  the  2d  instant  they  were  all  in  motion,  with  an  extra  supply  of  pro 
visions  for  Mr.  Tinkham's  party,  in  charge  of  three  men  of  Lieutenant  Mullan's  command,  and 
proceeded  in  slow  marches  down  the  valley.  We  were  in  camp  opposite  Hell  Gate  on  the  5th 
instant,  and  I  then  determined  the  next  day  to  push  forward  Lieutenant  Donelson  and  remain 
in  camp  till  Mr.  Tinkham's  party  returned,  or  some  decisive  steps  could  be  taken  to  recover  it. 
It  was  obvious  to  my  mind  that  Mr.  Tinkham  had  got  involved  in  a  difficult,  perhaps  imprac 
ticable  country,  as  he  took  no  guide  with  him,  and  my  great  fear  was  that  he  might  suffer  for 
want  of  food.  Accordingly,  that  evening  I  despatched  a  Flathead  guide  to  Fort  Owen,  with 
instructions  to  Lieutenant  Mullan  to  come  to  my  camp  with  additional  provisions  and  men ; 
and  in  a  conference  with  Victor,  who  had  now  returned  from  the  mission,  secured  the  services 
of  good  Flathead  guides.  Lieutenant  Donelson  and  Mr.  Lander  moved  off  on  the  sixth;  but 
scarcely  had  Lieutenant  Mullan  reached  my  camp,  about  four  in  the  afternoon,  before  Mr. 
Tinkham  came  in.  The  provisions  had  held  out,  and  the  route  examined  by  him  had  an 
important  bearing  on  our  railroad  question.  In  the  absence  of  Lieutenant  Donelson's  written 
report,  and  the  barometric  profile,  I  can  only  say  that  it  will  probably  furnish  a  practicable 
mode  of  avoiding  the  Hell  Gate  defile,  and  of  passing  from  the  valley  of  the  pass  to  that  of 
Clark's  fork.  The  trail  not  being  much  in  use,  was  difficult  to  follow,  and  the  party  frequently 
became  entangled  in  boggy  ground  and  dense  thickets. 

They  finally  struck  into  a  valley  passing  between  impracticable  mountains,  and  so  crowded 
with  wood  that  their  route  had  to  be  cut.  They  proceeded  down  the  valley  to  near  Clark's 
fork,  and  then  succeeded  in  crossing  over  to  the  valley  of  the  Jocko  river,  where  a  much-used 
trail  led  to  the  St.  Mary's  valley.  In  his  course  Mr.  Tinkham  passed  by  a  winter  post  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  ar  d  fell  in  with  a  small  party  of  Indians. 

The  same  evening  Mr.  Tinkham  made  his  arrangements  to  reach  Lieutenant  Donelson's 
camp  the  next  day,  and  exchange  his  tired  animals  for  fresh  ones.  He  started  on  his  duty 


56  LETTER  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 

with  the  greatest  alacrity,  and  will,  I  am  confident,  do  most  thoroughly  the  work  intrusted  to 
his  charge. 

I  omitted  to  mention  in  the  proper  place  that  Dr.  Suckley  was  directed  to  remain  at  the 
valley  with  a  small  party  of  the  men  to  complete  his  specimens  in  natural  history,  and  then  to 
go  down  the  St.  Mary's,  Clark's  fork,  and  Columbia  river,  in  a  boat,  continuing  the  collection 
of  the  animals,  and  making  the  best  survey  his  limited  means  would  allow.  For  my  addi 
tional  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Donelson,  Dr.  Suckley,  Mr.  Tinkham,  and  Mr.  Doty,  and  for 
additional  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Grover,  see  appendices  3,  4,  5,  6,  and  7. 

On  the  7th  my  little  party  was  in  motion,  and  on  the  12th  I  reached  the  Cceur  d'Alene 
mission.  The  route  on  the  mountain  was  much  obstructed  by  fallen  timber,  and  at  times  passed 
through  dense  underbrush.  Mr.  Stanley  made  a  most  excellent  survey  of  the  route;  but  the 
want  of  instruments  rendered  it  impossible  to  get  the  barometric  profile.  Two  streams  having 
their  sources  in  lakes  only  half  a  mile  apart,  flow  due  east  and  west  in  opposite  directions 
from  the  route.  The  ascent  is  along  the  stream  to  within  about  five  miles  of  the  dividing 
ridge,  when  the  trail  rises  two  thousand  feet,  by  estimation,  in  that  distance,  and  thence  passing 
along  the  ridge  of  a  spur  for  a  considerable  distance,  falls  suddenly  at  least  two  thousand 
five  hundred  feet.  Its  course  thence  to  the  mission  is  generally  along  the  river  called  by  the 
Jesuit  fathers  St.  Ignatius,  but  known  more  generally  as  the  Coeur  d'Alene. 

We  camped  within  one  mile  of  the  top  of  the  mountain  on  the  nights  of  the  10th  and  llth 
November  in  a  rain-storm,  and  looked  forward  to  snow  in  the  morning  ;  but,  to  our  agreeable 
surprise,  we  awoke  to  the  clearest  skies  and  the  most  genial  breezes  we  ever  experienced.  Not 
a  cloud  was  to  be  seen.  The  vast  solitude  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains  covered  with  heavy 
forest  trees,  the  Rocky  mountains  in  the  far  east,  and  the  Kootenaies  mountains  to  the  north  in 
British  territory,  formed  a  coup  d'ceil  imposing  and  magnificent.  The  slow  and  lazily  rising 
belts  and  lines  of  fog  indicated  the  position  of  the  lakes  and  streams.  A  year  ago,  at  this  very 
time,  the  blasts  of  winter  howled  in  these  solitudes,  and  the  drifting  and  rapidly  falling  snow 
completely  obstructed  the  traveller. 

Whether  this  route  will  come  into  competition  with  that  by  Clark's  fork  can  only  be 
determined  by  more  accurate  observation  than  we  were  able  to  make.  It  is  probable  that  by 
following  up  on  either  side  the  stream  itself,  the  length  of  the  tunnel  could  be  reduced  to  six 
and  perhaps  four  miles  without  involving  impracticable  grades  :  it  will  considerably  abridge 
the  distance;  but  the  difficulties  from  snow  should  be  carefully  investigated.  The  route  was 
good  in  grass  even  on  the  mountain  tops,  except  for  some  miles  in  the  valley  of  the  Cceur 
d'Alene.  It  is  a  favorite  route  of  the  Spokanes  and  Nez  Perces  on  their  way  to  the  buffalo 
hunt. 

At  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mission  I  got  no  information  as  to  Captain  McClellan;  but  from  a 
Cayuse  Indian  who  reached  the  mission  the  day  my  people  rested  there,  I  learned  of  the  arrival 
of  a  party  from  the  mountains,  which  I  supposed  to  be  Lieutenant  Macfeely's,  and  of  thirty-five 
emigrant  wagons  having  started  on  the  new  military  road  to  Steilacoom. 

On  the  15th  of  October  I  left  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mission,  where  I  was  most  hospitably 
entertained  by  the  Father  Gazzile,  and  proceeded  down  the  Coeur  d'Alene  river  on  my  way  to 
Colville.  Various  rumors  reached  me  as  to  parties  moving  through  the  country,  but  nothing 
of  a  definite  shape  till  about  noon  on  the  18th  of  that  month,  when  within  fifty  miles  of 
Colville  an  old  Spokane,  only  four  days  from  the  Yakima  country,  joined  me,  and  gave  me 
information  that  a  party  of  some  thirty  men  had  reached  the  Columbia  opposite  to  Colville  the 
day  before,  and  would  cross  that  day.  This  satisfied  me  that  by  pushing  to  Colville  that  night 
I  would  join  Captain  McClellan  before  he  moved  to  the  eastward,  and  thus  at  once  combine  all 
the  operations.  Securing  two  good,  fresh,  fat  Indian  horses  and  an  Indian  guide,  I  started  at 
two  o'clock,  and  succeeded  in  reaching  Colvillc  at  nine,  and  in  a  few  moments  the  information 
in  all  its  parts  was  completely  verified,  and  Captain  McClellan  and  myself  were  congratulating 
each  other  upon  our  most  fortunate  meeting.  Not  a  word  had  we  heard  of  each  other  since  the 


LETTER    TO    THE    SECRETARY   OP    WAR.  57 

9th  May,  when  ho  received  my  instructions,  and  when,  in  conversation,  Colville  was  referred  to 
as  a  probable  point  where  he  would  first  get  information  of  the  eastern  parties.  We  reached 
Colville  the  same  day,  the  18th  October. 

You  have  already  received  a  communication  from  Captain  McClellan  stating  the  principal 
facts  in  regard  to  the  Nahchess  and  Snoqualme  Passes,  and  his  action  in  regard  to  the  military 
road.  Reserving  to  a  future  communication  a  more  full  report  of  his  work,  I  will  state  that  he 
found  the  country  erroneously  laid  down  on  the  maps,  and  that  the  country  north  of  the  Sno 
qualme  Pass  is  very  rugged,  the  mountains  in  many  cases  extending  to  the  Columbia  river. 
Very  little  information  of  the  country  was  obtained  from  the  Indians  as  Captain  McClellan 
went  north;  but  all  the  streams  were  examined  towards  their  sources  till  the  ascent  became 
several  hundred  feet  per  mile,  and  the  ground  thoroughly  explored  to  above  the  49th  parallel. 
Good  railroad  crossings  of  the  Columbia  river  have  been  found  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima. 
I  apprehend  no  difficulty  whatever  in  the  Snoqualme  Pass  to  the  passage  of  a  railroad;  and 
from  information  I  have  received  from  old  residents  here,  particularly  from  Major  Golds- 
borough,  a  civil  engineer  who  has  examined  carefully  the  country,  it  will  be  an  easy  matter  to 
carry  it  to  a  good  harbor  on  the  sound. 

Through  Garry,  the  Spokane  chief,  a  man  of  education,  of  strict  probity,  and  great  influence 
over  his  tribe,  I  sent  Indian  runners  to  Lieutenant  Donelson,  appointing  a  little  valley  south 
of  the  Spokane  river,  near  the  junction  of  the  routes  from  Colville  and  Lieutenant  Donclson's 
place  of  crossing  Clark's  fork  to  Wallah- Wallah,  as  the  place  for  bringing  together  both 
divisions  ;  designing,  if  the  state  of  the  animals  and  the  condition  of  the  instruments  would 
authorize  it,  to  continue,  under  the  direction  of  Captain  McClellan,  the  odometer  survey  over 
the  Cascades  to  Puget  sound,  and  submitting  that  portion  of  the  route  to  the  inspection  and 
estimate  of  Mr.  Lander,  one  of  the  civil  engineers.  It  was  also  designed  to  send  a  small  party 
across  the  Columbia  a  little  above  the  mouth  of  the  Snake  river,  and  follow  the  north  bank  of 
the  Columbia  to  the  Dalles  and  Vancouver.  The  remainder  of  the  party  were  to  proceed  to 
Wallah- Wallah  and  the  Dalles,  and  then  receive  instructions  as  to  the  discharge  of  men  and 
the  arrangement  for  office-work. 

The  juncture  was  effected  on  the  28th  October,  Captain  McClellan  and  myself  reaching  the 
camp,  which  I  named  Camp  Washington,  only  the  day  before  Lieutenant  Donelson  ;  and  the 
greatest  joy  was  in  every  heart  at  the  unlocked  for  and  extraordinary  good  fortune  which  had 
attended  every  step  of  the  exploration. 

The  meeting  of  parties  from  the  Mississippi  and  the  Pacific  in  the  passes  of  the  mountains 
and  in  the  valleys  of  the  interior,  on  the  great  railroad  routes,  each  in  the  vigorous  examina 
tion  of  his  part  of  the  work,  and  to  within  a  single  day;  the  peaceful  relations  which  had  been 
established  with  all  the  Indian  tribes,  the  health,  good  conduct,  and  harmony  of  action  of  all 
the  men  engaged  in  the  difficult  fields  of  this  exploration,  extending  over  a  sphere  of  country 
two  thousand  miles  long  by  two  to  four  hundred  wide,  and  the  admirable  and  triumphant 
solution  of  the  great  railroad  problem  intrusted  to  our  hands,  repaid  each  man  for  his  arduous 
labors,  and  relieved  all  minds  of  further  doubt  and  anxiety. 

Two  barometers  only  now  remained,  and  the  animals  were  thin  and  leg- weary  from  their 
long  labors.  The  known  want  of  grass  for  some  three  days,  immediately  west  of  the  Cascades, 
required  grain  to  be  taken  along,  which  could  not  be  procured,  and  the  lines,  already  extended 
through  the  two  practicable  passes,  could  be  taken  up  on  reaching  Puget  sound  and  carried  to 
a  good  harbor.  Accordingly,  in  an  order  which  is  marked  8  in  the  appendix,  I  sent  the  whole 
force  to  Wallah- Wallah  and  the  Dalles. 

Lieutenant  Donelson  reports  the  route  from  the  debouche  of  the  pass  at  Hell  Gate  to  the  banks 
of  the  Spokane,  at  the  junction  of  the  route  from  Colville,  and  that  one  by  the  Coeur  d'Alene 
mountains,  taken  by  me  as  practicable  for  a  road,  involving  no  other  difficulties  than  are  usually 
met  with  in  the  Atlantic  States,  and  that  it  will  well  connect  with  a  route  through  the  Marias 
Pass,  should  a  practicable  one  be  ascertained  by  Mr.  Tinkham.  The  grass  generally  on  his 


58  LETTER    TO    TIIE    SECRETARY    OF    WAR. 

route  was  good,  there  having  been  a  scarcity  only  two  nights.  He  fitted  ont  Mr.  Tinkham's 
party  for  this  difficult  work  to  his  entire  satisfaction,  and  at  the  last  crossing  of  Clark's  fork 
he  despatched,  in  conformity  with  my  instructions,  Lieutenant  Arnold  to  Fort  Colville,  with  a 
thoroughly  organized  detached  party,  with  instruments  for  the  determination  of  the  barometric 
profile  and  the  latitude.  At  Colville  I  left  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Arnold  to  place  his  ani 
mals  and  most  of  his  men  in  camp,  to  ascend  the  main  Columbia  in  canoes  to  the  49th  parallel, 
and  there  ascertain  the  important  facts  of  the  geography,  and  to  send  word  by  Indian  runners 
to  Dr.  Buckley  to  cross  by  land  from  the  Fend  d'Oreille  mission  to  Colville,  the  navigation 
thence  to  Colville  being  dangerous  and  almost  impracticable  ;  and  I  left  it  discretionary  with 
Lieutenant  Arnold  to  go  to  Wallah-Wallah  from  Colville  either  by  land,  along  its  left  bank, 
or  in  boats,  leaving  also  Dr.  Suckley.a  like  discretion  in  reference  to  my  original  instructions. 
For  my  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Arnold,  see  paper  9  from  Colville,  (this  paper  has  been 
mislaid.)  paper  10  from  Camp  Washington;  and  to  Dr.  Suckley,  see  paper  11,  also  from  Camp 
Washington.  I  will  here  observe  that  on  the  route  from  St.  Mary's  valley  I  met  many  Pend 
d'Oreille  Indians,  and  took  measures  which  I  trust  secured  Dr.  Suckley  an  Indian  guide  the 
whole  distance  from  Fort  Owen  to  the  Pend  d'Oreille  mission.  I  also  was  able  to  do  something 
towards  bringing  into  relations  with  Lieutenant  Mullan  all  the  Indians  going  to  the  buffalo 
hunt.  They  have  a  common  route  through  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  and  pass  within  a  short  dis 
tance  of  Fort  Owen. 

In  a  letter  received  from  Lieutenant  Arnold  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  express,  and  which  is  given 
in  paper  12  in  the  appendix,  (this  has  been  misl_aid,)  I  learned  that  he  reached  Colville  with 
his  party  on  the  31st  of  October,  and  that  after  making  the  examinations  required  of  the 
Columbia,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  49th  parallel,  he  should  decide  to  go  to  Wallah-Wallah  by 
land;  and  I  am  assured  by  that  chivalric  and  American-hearted  man,  A.  McDonald,  Esq.,  the 
factor  in  charge  of  the  Colville  post,  that  he  would  render  him  every  assistance  in  his  power. 
With  it  and  the  examination  already  made,  we  shall  have  an  excellent  general  knowledge  of 
the  country  from  Colville  to  Wallah-Wallah,  and  the  several  crossings  of  the  Columbia,  Spo 
kane,  and  Snake  rivers,  and  be  able  to  connect  the  best  pass  of  the  Cascades  with  that  of  the 
Coeur  d'Alene  range.  It  was  in  moving  from  Colville  and  the  Clark  river  crossing,  on  the 
morning  of  the  26th  of  October,  that  the  only  snow  on  the  entire  route  fell.  It  was  to  the 
depth  of  some  three  to  six  inches,  and  disappeared  in  a  few  days. 

Camp  Washington  was  broken  up  on  the  29th,  30th,  and  31st  of  October,  and  Wallah- 
Wallah  was  reached  by  myself  on  the  2d  of  November,  by  Lieutenant  Donelson  on  the  6th, 
and  Captain  McClellan  on  the  7th  of  that  month. 

Here  I  learned  that  the  emigrant  wagons  had  succeeded  in  crossing  to  the  sound  by  the  Nah- 
chess  Pass,  and  learning  from  Pu-pu-mux-mux,  the  Wallah-Wallah  chief,  that  his  people  were 
now  going  through  it  on  horseback,  and  being  satisfied,  from  the  known  height  of  the  pass,  the 
general  character  of  the  season  as  shown  in  the  quantity  of  snow  on  the  Blue  mountains,  and 
the  inferences  to  be  drawn  from  the  extraordinary  mildness  of  the  Puget  sound  climate,  that  it 
would  be  practicable  for  some  twenty  days,  I  assigned  Mr.  Lander  to  the  duty  of  carrying  over 
it  the  odometer  survey,  of  observing  the  general  character  of  that  range  as  regards  railroad 
constructions,  and  of  adding  to  our  knowledge  of  the  meteorology  of  that  region.  I  have  not 
a  copy  of  that  order  with  me,  but  will  send  it  in  a  future  communication. 

To  fit  out  Mr.  Lander  for  that  duty,  I  got  horses  and  grain  ;  but  the  day  after  my  departure 
Indians  came  in  with  information  that  snow  had  fallen  in  the  pass,  that  the  last  emigrants  had 
lost  their  animals  in  it,  and  that  even  Indians  had  been  compelled  to  turn  back.  Mr.  Lander 
then  determined  to  follow  in  the  trail  of  the  other  parties  to  the  Dalles. 

Although  I  regret  Mr.  Lander  did  not  persevere,  I  do  not  censure  him  for  his  course.  In  a 
new  country  it  is  very  difficult  to  get  the  truth  from  the  information  given,  and  it  has  been 
found  to  be  our  most  vexatious  experience  on  the  whole  march.  But  it  would  have  proved, 
in  my  judgmentj  an  entirely  practicable  undertaking,  and  would  have  made  our  information 


LETTER    FROM    LIEUTENANT   MULLAN.  59 

more  complete.  I  have  reason  to  believe  that,  even  at  this  time,  there  is  but  little  snow  in 
that  pass. 

At  Wall  ah -Wall  ah  I  learned  definitely  of  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Macfeely,  in  charge  of 
Lieutenant  Saxton's  return  party  from  Fort  Owen,  and  of  Dr.  Evans,  the  geologist  of  the  expe 
dition.  Lieutenant  Macfeely  had  much  difficulty  in  finding  suitable  camps,  they  being  in  some 
cases  off  the  route;  and  he,  having  no  guide  with  him,  and  for  want  of  grass,  lost  many  of  his 
animals.  Dr.  Evans  came  through  rapidly,  and  brought  in  all  his  animals  in  excellent  condi 
tion.  These  gentlemen  are  now  preparing  their  reports — Lieutenant  Macfeely  at  Columbia  bar 
racks,  and  Dr.  Evans  at  Oregon  City. 

I  reached  the  Dalles  on  the  12th  of  November,  Columbia  barracks  on  the  16th,  and  this  place 
on  the  26th  ;  and  have  made  the  following  arrangements  for  continuing  the  survey  to  this  point, 
for  office-work,  and  for  the  wintering  of  animals  and  the  discharge  of  men  : 

1.  Forty-five  feeble  animals  placed  in  good  grazing  in  the  Wallah-Wallah  valley,  under  the 
charge  of  a  herdsman;  pay,  thirty  dollars  per  month  and  subsistence. 

2.  About  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  animals  in  grazing  at  the  Dalles,  in  charge  of  a  master 
herder;  pay,  sixty  dollars  per  month;  and  three  men,  each  forty-five  dollars  per  month,  with 
their  subsistence. 

3.  Two  small  parties  by  land  to  Vancouver,  under,  respectively,  Captain  McClellan  and 
Lieutenant  Donelson,  and  the  remainder  by  the  Columbia  river. 

4.  Quartermaster  employes,    and  gentlemen  of  the  survey  whose  services  are  no  longer 
required,  discharged  at  Columbia  barracks. 

5.  The  office  established  at  Olympia,  and  the  odometer  survey  continued  by  the  line  of  the 
Cowlitz  to  that  point. 

6.  The  railroad  line  to  be  run  from  the  Snoqualme  Pass  to  the  sound  by  Captain  McClel 
lan,  and  a  winter  post  to  be  established  near  the  pass. 

The  parties  of  Captain  McClellan  and  Lieutenant  Donelson  have  reached  Columbia  barracks ; 
the  men  not  needed  have  been  discharged,  and  the  remainder  are  on  their  way  to  this  place. 

The  parties  of  Lieutenant  Arnold,  Dr.  Suckley,  and  Mr.  Tinkham,  are  expected  to  reach  this 
point  in  all  this  month.  Lieutenant  Grover  is  not  expected  till  late  in  February  or  early  in. 
March,  at  which  time  I  hope  to  receive  from  Lieutenant  Mullan  a  report  of  his  route  to  Fort 
Hall.  I  propose,  in  February,  to  send  Lieutenant  Arnold  through  the  Nez  Perces  country  to 
the  Cceur  d'Alene  mission,  and  from  that  point  make  arrangements  to  ascertain  the  snows  in 
the  Coaur  d'Alene  mountains. 

Apologising  for  this  hastily  written  and  desultory  report,  I  remain,  very  respectfully,  your 
most  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 


No.  1. 

ST.  MARY'S  VILLAGE,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

October  2,  1853. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  report  my  arrival  at  this  place  at  noon  of  the  30th  of  September. 
In  conformity  to  your  letter  of  instructions  to  me,  dated  at  Fort  Benton,  September  8,  1853,  I 
left  Fort  Benton  on  the  morning  of  the  9th,  and  struck  the  Muscle  Shell  river  on  the  13th, 
passing  between  the  High  wood  and  Girdle  mountains,  near  the  base  of  the  western  slope  of  the 
Highwood  mountains.  Here  I  found  a  most  excellent  prairie  road  from  the  Missouri  to  the 
point  where  I  struck  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  with  the  exception  of  about  three  miles  of  "bad 


60  LETTER   FROM    LIEUTENANT    MULLAN. 

land"  crossing.  On  my  route  from  the  Missouri  I  crossed  the  headwaters  of  the  Shonkee 
creek,  or  Shonkec  river,  Arrow  river,  Judith  river,  and  Hammell  Island  creek,  before  striking 
the  Muscle  Shell  river.  All  of  these  streams  referred  to  are  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  from  the 
south,  but  lose  their  importance  when  compared  with  the  Muscle  Shell  river.  This  last  men 
tioned  stream  I  found  to  be  one  of  the  most  important  tributaries  of  the  Missouri.  It  takes  its 
rise  in  the  main  chain  of  the  Belt  or  Girdle  mountains,  a  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  east  of 
the  Missouri.  This  river  winds  through  a  very  beautiful,  level  valley,  well  wooded  along  the 
borders  of  the  stream  from  its  headwaters  to  the  point  where  I  struck  it,  a  distance  of  sixty 
miles  and  I  have  every  reason  to  believe  that  it  is  well  wooded  thence  to  its  mouth.  The 
valley  through  which  it  flows  is  about  one  mile  wide,  bounded  on  the  east  side  by  low  prairie 
bluffs.  There  are  two  trails  across  the  mountains  by  this  river — one  by  the  northern,  and  the 
other  by  the  southern  fork  of  the  river.  In  coursing  the  southern  fork  of  the  Muscle  Shell  river 
you  cross  the  headwaters  of  'the  Missouri ;  in  crossing  along  the  northern  fork  you  pass  though 
the  Girdle  mountains,  by  a  very  excellent  pass,  to  the  Missouri. 

I  did  not  fall  upon  the  Flathead  trail  when  I  first  struck  the  river,  but  found  it  four  miles 
above,  which  I  saw  tended  towards  the  east.  This  trail  I  followed  for  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles  to  a  ford.  I  thence  followed  it  southeast  to  the  Muscle  Shell,  for  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles  farther,  over  a  very  rough,  rugged,  and  difficult  road.  There  I  found  that  the  Flatheads 
were  five  days  ahead  of  me,  and  that  it  would  be  perfectly  impossible  for  me  to  overtake  them 
with  my  pack  animals.  Therefore  I  deemed  it  advisable  to  go  into  camp — which  I  left  in  charge 
of  Mr.  Burr — to  go  in  search  of  the  Flatheads,  with  my  Indian  guide.  To  this  effect  the  Indian 
guide  and  myself,  mounted  on  two  of  my  best  horses,  followed  on  their  trail  for  a  distance  of 
sixty  or  seventy  miles,  and  found  them  encamped  in  a  very  beautiful  valley.  Here  I  was 
received  by  them  with  the  greatest  hospitality  and  kindness.  I  explained  to  the  principal  men 
of  the  camp,  in  detail,  the  object  of  my  visit.  I  told  them  that  I  came  among  them  to  secure  a 
delegation  of  their  most  intelligent  and  reliable  men  to  accompany  me  across  the  Rocky  mount 
ains,  to  meet  you  at  the  St.  Mary's  village.  I  told  them  that  you  had  visited  the  camp  of  the 
Blackfect  Indians,  and  that  your  intention  and  determination  was  to  bring  all  the  tribes,  both 
east  and  west  of  the  mountains,  into  one  general  peace;  that  your  determination  was  to  protect 
them  from  the  incursions  of  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  who  for  years  have  been  their  enemies  to  the 
knife;  that  your  determination  was  to  build  anew  the  village  of  St.  Mary's,  and  cause  the 
valley,  where  had  been  their  homes  for  years,  again  to  teem  with  beauty ;  that,  in  the  beautiful 
valley  of  St.  Mary's,  a  foundation  had  been  laid,  and  that  upon  it  you  intended  to  build,  if 
possible,  a  superstructure  that  all  the  Indian  tribes  of  North  America  could  look  upon  and 
imitate,  and  that  would  be  a  monument  which  our  government  could  view  with  feelings  of  pride 
and  credit.  After  much  persuasion,  the  chief  of  the  tribe  delegated  five  of  his  principal  men 
to  accompany  me,  to  be  their  representatives  to  you.  Four  of  them  accompanied  me  to  this 
village,  and  I  am  compelled  to  bear  witness,  on  an  occasion,  to  their  noble  and  Christian 
character.  Did  what  Father  De  Smet  has  told  of  the  Flathead  Indians  need  confirmation, 
I  am  ready  and  willing  to  add  my  evidence  in  the  behalf  of  these  interesting  children  of  the 
mountains. 

From  the  Flathead  camp  I  followed  up  the  Muscle  Shell  river  to  its  headwaters,  by  its  north 
ern  fork.  I  there  fell  upon  the  headwaters  of  Smith  river,  flowing  into  the  Missouri  from  the 
south,  and  running  in  a  northwesterly  course  by  a  very  excellent  prairie  road  across  the 
dividing  ridge.  This  river  takes  its  rise  in  the  same  range  of  mountains  as  the  Muscle  Shell, 
and  flows  in  the  opposite  direction.  This  river  winds  through  a  very  beautiful  prairie  valley, 
well  wooded.  The  current  of  the  stream  is  rapid,  bed  rocky,  and  water  about  eighteen  inches 
deep.  This  valley  I  followed  down  for  many  miles,  and,  finding  it  to  take  a  course  too  far  to 
the  north,  I  left  it  arid  crossed  to  the  Missouri  by  a  very  excellent  road.  Here  I  found  the  Mis 
souri  to  be  five  feet  deep  and  about  thirty  yards  wide,  and  flowing  with  a  very  rapid  current 
towards  the  north.  The  water  here  is  perfectly  clear  und  limpid.  From  the  point  where  I 


LETTER    TO    LIEUTENANT    MULL  AN.  61 

struck  the  Missouri  there  is  a  very  excellent  prairie  road  leading  westward ;  but  being  unable 
to  ford  the  stream  where  I  struck  it,  I  was  compelled  to  follow  down  the  course  of  it  for  eight 
miles  to  find  a  ford,  and  then  crossed  a  high  ridge  of  mountains  west  of  the  Missouri,  in  order 
to  cut  off  the  distance  to  my  left.  This  prairie  extends  about  twenty  miles  to  the  west,  to  the 
dividing  ridge,  where  rises  the  main  fork  of  the  Bitter  Boot  river.  This  dividing  ridge,  from 
which  flow  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Columbia,  I  crossed  on  the  second  day  from  the 
Missouri,  and  it  proved  the  only  difficult  point  of  passage  in  my  route  from  Fort  Benton.  This 
divide  is  about  four  hundred  feet  high,  and  about  three  miles  across.  I  here  fall  upon  the 
headwaters  of  the  main  fork  of  the  Bitter  Boot  river,  the  valley  of  which  I  followed  down  till  it 
unites  with  the  Blackfeet  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  river  at  Hell  Gate.  This  valley  is  about  a  mile 
wide,  and  well  wooded  with  the  pine  and  cotton-wood  tree,  and  affords  a  most  excellent  road 
for  the  passage  of  wagons.  There  is  a  well-beaten  trail  along  this  valley,  made  by  the  Flat- 
heads  in  their  course  to  their  hunting-grounds  east  of  the  Missouri.  I  would  here  mention 
that  this  same  trail  leads  along  the  north  fork  of  the  Muscle  Shell  river ;  thence  down  the  river 
to  its  mouth.  The  grade  of  this  valley  is  scarcely  perceptible,  and  along  it  you  pass  along  the 
slope  of  but  one  mountain,  which,  with  but  little  trouble,  would  allow  wagons  to  pass  over  it. 
After  leaving  the  main  fork,  I  crossed  the  Blackfeet  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root,  and  followed 
along  it  for  six  or  eight  miles,  and  thence  crossed  to  the  St.  Mary's  by  a  most  excellent  prairie 
road.  I  found  good  grass  and  water  for  my  animals  on  nearly  the  whole  route,  and  slept  but 
one  night  without  wood,  which  was  between  the  Missouri  and  Muscle  Shell.  I  would  mention 
particularly  the  valleys  of  the  Muscle  Shell  and  the  main  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  rivers,  as  being 
well  grassed.  I  found,  in  both  valleys,  the  grass  green,  rich,  and  luxuriant,  and  water  and 
wood  in  abundance.  This  wood  I  found  to  be  principally  the  pine,  cotton-wood,  spruce,  cedar, 
and  hemlock.  I  would  also  mention  that  game  in  the  greatest  abundance  is  to  be  found  along 
the  whole  route — buffalo,  elk,  antelope,  and  bear.  I  would  also  mention  that  I  found  the 
weather  much  more  mild  west  of  the  Missouri  than  east  of  it.  For  full  details  as  to  the  char 
acter  of  the  country,  for  each  day's  march,  and  the  streams  and  rivers  passed,  I  would  refer 
you  to  my  journal. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  MULLAN, 

Lieutenant  United  States  Army. 
Hon.  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 


No.  2. 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Fort  Oiven,  St.  Mary's  Valley,  October  3,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  You  are  placed  in  charge  of  the  meteorological  and  supply  post  established  in 
this  valley,  with  Mr.  Adams  and  Mr.  Burr,  assistants;  Sergeant  Simpson,  in  charge  of  the  an 
imals;  Corporal  Rose,  Privates  Wolfe  Williams  and  ToohilL  Isham,  of  the  7th  infantry;  and 
Simpson,  Farnham,  Osborne,  Osborne,  jr.,  Mechelbach,  and  Bell,  quartermaster  employes,  and 
Gates,  to  be  chargeable  to  the  survey. 

The  object  in  establishing  this  post  is  twofold:  first,  to  ascertain  the  character  of  the  seasons 
in  this  valley,  and  the  adjacent  ranges  of  mountains,  by  numerous  and  carefully-made  meteoro 
logical  observations ;  and,  second,  to  continue  the  exploration  and  survey  of  the  country  between 
the  Ptocky  and  Bitter  Root  ranges  of  mountains,  extending  it  to  Fort  Hall,  to  connect  with  the 
survey  of  Fremont,  and  northward  to  the  Flathead  lake,  and  even  to  the  upper  waters  of  Clark's 
fork.  As  much  time  as  practicable  should  be  given  to  the  examination  of  entrances  to  passes.  It 
is  believed  you  will  be  able  to  work  late,  and  to  resume  operations  at  an  early  period  in  the  spring. 


G2  LETTER    TO    LIEUTENANT    DONELSON. 

It  is  important  that  attention  should  be  given  to  collections,  and  particularly  to  the  mineral 
wealth  of  the  region.  Gold  is  said  to  be  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Hell  Gate  fork.  I 
desire  you  to  pay  especial  attention  to  the  Indian  duties  connected  with  your  position.  You  are 
authorized  to  pay  an  interpreter  at  the  rate  of  $500  per  year.  He  should,.as  you  have  suggested, 
be  a  guide;  and  the  Flathead,  Gahiel,  is  recommended  as  competent  and  reliable:  endeavor  to 
secure  his  services.  Your  attention  is  called  to  the  several  particulars  in  relation  to  which  I  am 
directed  to  make  reports  in  the  instructions  of  the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs,  and  any 
information  you  can  afford  will  be  of  service.  Make  an  estimate  of  the  probable  cost  of  estab 
lishing  a  sub-agency,  and  the  general  cost  of  keeping  it  up.  I  shall,  however,  endeavor  to 
communicate  with  you  again  this  fall,  and  may  be  able  to  send  you  additional  Indian  goods. 

To  Lieutenant  Grover,  who  has  volunteered  to  conduct  the  dog  train  over  these  mountains  in 
the  winter,  and  to  Mr.  Tinkham,  who  has  volunteered  to  cross  the  mountains  twice  by  the 
Marias  Pass  to  Fort  Benton,  and  thence  by  some  southern  pass  to  this  point,  and  thence  by  the 
southern  Nez  Perces  to  Wallah-Wallah,  you  will,  of  course,  render  all  the  assistance  in  your 
power.  Ample  supplies  .have  been  provided  for  them,  and  I  do  not  think  any  contingency  will 
arise  making  it  necessary  that  they  should  encroach  upon  your  stores. 

By  Lieutenant  Grover  and  Mr.  Tinkham,  I  hope  you  will  be  able  to  send  reports  of  your 
operations,  or  detached  reports,  with  a  statement  of  your  route  from  Fort  Benton  to  this  point, 
and  of  your  survey  to  Fort  Hall,  should  it  be  accomplished  before  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant 
Grover. 

You  may  rely  upon  my  establishing  at  least  a  bi-monthly  express  there  this  winter,  if  practi 
cable,  and  by  which  I  shall  be  able  to  hear  from  you  twice,  and  perhaps  three  times,  before  I 
see  you  in  the  spring.  I  shall  endeavor  to  visit  this  place  previous  to  the  15th  of  June. 

Of  the  animals  (horses  and  mules)  left  in  your  charge,  I  am  confident  that  as  many  of  them 
will  be  serviceable,  in  a  few  days,  as  your  duties  will  require.  Should  the  winter  prove  mild, 
all  the  animals  will  probably  be  serviceable  in  the  spring.  For  the  meat  rations  you  will  rely 
mainly  upon  beef,  which  is  in  abundance  in  this  valley.  Lieutenant  Saxton  established  the 
tariff  at  $60  per  head,  which  meets  my  approval. 

Yours,  truly, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 
Lieutenant  MULLAN. 


No.  3. 

FLATHEAU  VILLAGE  OF  ST.  MARY'S, 

Territory  of  Washington,  October  2_,  1853. 

SIR:  According  to  the  verbal  instructions  you  have  already  received,  you  are  placed  in  com 
mand  of  the  principal  party  to  continue  the  work  westward  from  this  point,  to  connect  with 
Captain  McClellan's  work  eastward,  through  the  Cascade  range.  The  party  will  be  composed 
as  follows:  Lieutenant  Arnold,  U.  S.  Army,  assisted  by  Mr.  Lyman  Arnold,  and  Mr.  G.  W. 
Stevens,  assisted  by  Sapper  Roach,  associated  in  the  charge  of  the  astronomical  observations. 

Mr.  Lambert,  the  topographer  of  the  expedition,  in  charge  of  the  odometer  survey,  assisted 
by  Mr.  Bixly. 

Mr.  Lander,  civil  engineer ;  Mr.  Moffett,  in  charge  of  meteorological  observations,  assisted  by 
Sapper  Davis;  Messrs.  Kendall,  Evans,  Evelyn,  and  West,  as  general  assistants;  Sergeant 
Higgins,  pack-master,  assisted  by  Mr.  Henderson  and  Sergeant  Martin;  Sergeant  Lindez, 
quartermaster,  commissary,  and  ordnance  sergeant ;  Private  Horner,  assistant  in  making  col 
lections  ;  Private  Goercky,  of  the  dragoons,  hospital  steward ;  Corporal  Cunningham,  Privates 
Brandnell  and  Smith,  of  the  sappers  and  miners;  Privates  Mathers  and  Bowers,  of  the  fourth 
infantry ;  Gear,  Hudson,  and  Williams,  chargeable,  to  the  survey,  and  twenty-seven  employes 


LETTER    TO    LIEUTENANT    DONELSON.  63 

of  the  quartermaster  and  commissary  department.     Camille  is  assigned  as  an  interpreter,  with 
an  Indian  guide  of  the  Flathead  tribe. 

Your  general  course  will  be  by  the  Jocko  river  to  the  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  thence  to 
where  the  fork  was  crossed  by  Lieutenant  Saxton,  westward  of  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  taking 
either  the  route  passed  over  by  Lieutenant  Saxton,  or  some  practicable  route  between  Clark's 
fork  and  the  Kootenaies  river,  and  thence  to  near  the  Spokane  house,  at  the  crossing  of  the 
Spokane  river.  Assign  to  Mr.  Lander  such  duties  in  connexion  with  the  railroad  estimate  and 
side  reconnaissance  as  will  give  the  best  result.  The  Bitter  Root  river  should  be  examined, 
and  the  route  by  Clark's  fork  reviewed,  even  should  the  general  route  be  more  to  the  north. 
At  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  a  detached  party,  sent  to  Colville  by  the  northern  trail,  might 
intercept  Captain  McClellan;  and  at  Colville,  would  be  in  a  position  to  move  westward  to  open 
a  connexion  with  his  work.  The  Spokane  crossing,  near  the  Spokane  house,  is  a  central 
position,  trains  leading  therefrom  both  to  Colville  and  Wallah- Wallah.  At  the  crossing  you 
may  expect  intelligence  of  Captain  McClellan's  movements,  and  additional  instructions  either 
from  Captain  McClellan  or  myself.  Failing  to  receive  intelligence  or  instructions,  your  general 
course  will  be  Olympia,  by  Wallah- Wallah,  and  the  military  road  to  Nisqually,  and  thence  to 
Olympia.  But  you  have  full  discretion  to  reach  Olympia,  from  the  Spokane  house,  by  any 
other  practicable  route  which  may  be  detected  in  your  progress  through  the  country,  taking  the 
precaution,  however,  to  communicate  with  Wallah- Wallah,  where  instructions  may  await  you 
to  the  end,  and  by  express  purpose  generally.  At  least  six  good  horses  should  be  reserved  by 
you.  The  party  to  Colville  by  the  northern  trail,  from  the  crossing  west  of  the  Pend  d'Oreille 
lake,  place  under  the  charge  of  Lieutenant  Arnold,  and  instruct  him,  if  he  fail  to  hear  from 
Captain  McClellan  at  Colville,  to  push  beyond  Colville  to  the  base  of  the  Cascade  range;  and 
thence  move  to  the  south,  along  the  eastern  base  of  that  range.  Recollect  the  great  object  to  be 
accomplished,  in  the  direction  given  by  your  operations,  including  those  to  Lieutenant  Arnold, 
is  to  connect  your  work  with  that  of  Captain  McClellan,  through  the  most  practicable  pass  found 
in  the  Cascade  range  by  him;  and  to  this  every  movement  should  tend.  To  this  end  you  will 
instruct  Lieutenant  Arnold,  as  he  moves  south,  either  to  reach  Olympia  by  Wallah- Wallah 
and  the  military  road,  or  by  some  other  practicable  route,  as  you  may  judge  most  judicious. 

In  reference  to  Lieutenant  Arnold's  party,  I  will  suggest  that  it  be  immediately  organized, 
to  be  prepared  for  any  duties  of  reconnaissance,  on  which  it  may  be  desirable  to  detach  him, 
previously  to  arriving  at  the  Clark's  fork  crossing.  It  should  be  a  most  efficiently  organized 
party.  Besides  his  brother's  assistance  in  astronomical  observations,  it  is  desirable  he  should 
have  an  assistant  for  the  compass  line  and  topography,  and  an  assistant  for  barometrical  observ 
ations.  Endeavor  so  to  organize  his  party,  unless  the  deficiency  of  instruments  renders  it 
impossible.  I  am  of  opinion  that  Mr.  Lander's  party  should  consist  of  not  more  than  three 
men  besides  himself.  As  you  approach  the  country  of  the  Kootenaies  Indians,  every  exertion 
should  be  made  to  secure  their  services  as  guides,  as  they  are  said  to  be  well  acquainted  with 
the  routes  you  will  take.  You  are  requested  to  obtain  every  information  possible  in  reference 
to  the  Indian  tribes  you  may  meet,  and  I  can  recommend  Mr.  Kendall  as  one  who  would  render 
much  assistance  in  this  important  branch  of  the  work.  You  are  also  requested  to  learn  what 
you  can  in  reference  to  the  missions  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  your  route,  and  also  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  settlements  ;  of  both,  whether  their  influence  is  beneficial  or  prejudicial  to  Ameri 
can  interests  in  their  neighborhood. 

Enclosed  you  will  find  letters  of  introduction  to  officers  in  charge  of  Hudson's  Bay  posts  at 
Colville  and  Wallah- Wallah. 

Truly  yours,  &c., 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Expedition. 

Lieut.  A.  J.  DONELSON, 

United  States  Corps  of  Engineers. 


64  LETTERS    TO    DR.    SUCKLEY    AND    MR.    TINKHAM. 

No.    4. 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Flathead  Village,  St.  Mary's  Valley,  October  2,  1853. 

SIR:  You  will  remain  at  this  point  until  tlie  25th  instant  or  thereabouts,  when  you  will  pro 
ceed  in  a  canoe  down  the  Bitter  Root  and  St.  Mary's  rivers,  through  by  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille, 
and  down  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia  river  to  the  main  river,  following  the  latter  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Cowlitz  ;  and  from  that  point  make  your  way  by  the  most  practicable  route  to 
Olympia. 

During  your  stay  at  this  place  you  will  employ  your  time  to  the  best  advantage,  collecting 
such  specimens  in  zoology,  botany,  ichthyology,  &c.,  as  may  be  rare  and  interesting;  and  in 
your-  intercourse  with  the  natives,  making  yourself  familiar  with  their  past  and  present  history, 
language,  traditions,  &c.,  as  fully  as  possible.  Henry  Berry  and  George  Smith,  two  expe 
rienced  boatmen,  will  be  placed  at  your  disposal,  and,  where  necessary,  you  are  empowered  to 
hire  an  Indian  guide.  During  your  trip,  in  addition  to  collections  in  natural  history,  you  will 
note  carefully  the  general  direction  of  these  rivers,  and  of  their  main  tributaries,  the  various 
falls  and  rapids,  and  their  approximate  distances;  note  also  the  width  and  depth  of  the  stream, 
the  character  of  its  banks  at  various  points,  and  any  other  interesting  and  valuable  facts.  You 
will  also  make  a  set  of  meteorological  observations  at  regular  intervals,  for  which  purpose  the 
proper  instruments  will  be  furnished  you. 

You  will  collect  all  the  information  you  can  concerning  the  various  missions  on  your  route, 
noting  carefully  their  influence,  both  in  connexion  with  the  settlement  of  the  country  and  as 
tending  to  promote  the  civilization  of  the  native  tribes. 

I  will  place  at  your  disposal  letters  of  credit  and  introduction  to  the  agents  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  at  the  posts  of  Fort  Colville,  Wallah- Wallah,  and  Vancouver,  with  discretionary 
powers  as  to  their  use. 

Very  truly  yours,  &c., 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Expedition. 

Dr.  GEORGE  SUCKLEY. 


No.  5. 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

St.  Mary's  Valley,  Washington  Territory,  October  3,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  With  your  party  you  are  assigned  to  the  duty  of  examining  the  Marias  Pass,  and 
returning  either  by  Cadotte's  Pass  or  by  the  pass  pursued  by  Mr.  Mullan,  or  by  that  entering 
the  valley  above  this  point,  from  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  and  known  as  the  main 
Flathead  trail,  and  thence  by  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail  to  Wallah- Wallah,  and  the  mili 
tary  road  to  Olympia.  Fort  Benton  will  be  visited  by  you  to  confer  with  Mr.  Doty,  and  make 
known  to  him  the  several  routes  examined,  and  to  advise  in  relation  to  points  requiring  exami 
nation  ;  should  it  be  practicable,  it  would  be  desirable  that  Mr.  Doty  should  accompany  you  to 
St.  Mary's,  and  thence  return  by  Cadotte's  Pass  to  Fort  Benton. 

It  is  desirable  that  you  should  return  by  the  broad  Flathead  trail ;  but  the  season  is  late,  and 
it  may  be  found  necessary  to  come  here  by  the  shortest  route,  that  of  Cadotte's  Pass.  It  is  prob 
able  that  with  good  pack  animals,  the  route  by  Cadotte's  Pass  will  occupy  ten  days ;  that  by  Mr. 
Mullan's,  twelve;  and  by  the  broad  Flathead  trail,  fifteen  days.  In  addition  to  the  railroad 
reconnaissance  and  estimate,  estimate  as  to  the  cost,  and  report  as  to  the  best  practicable 
method  of  establishing  a  wagon  route  from  Fort  Benton  to  this  point. 

Your  guide  will  be  a  Flathead  Indian,  who  will  accompany  you  to  the  entrance  of  the  Marias 


LETTER   TO   MR.   DOTY.  65 

Pass,  and  the  voyageurs  Monroe  and  Dauphin  are  assigned  to  your  party.  Mr.  Doty  and  Lieu 
tenant  Mullan  will  be  directed  to  afford  you  every  assistance  in  their  power,  particularly  in 
giving  you  good  animals.  Lieutenant  Mullan  will  furnish  a  Nez  Perces  guide,  and  additional 
instructions  will  await  you  at  Wallah- Wallah. 

Your  labors  will  be  arduous,  and  will  contribute  greatly  to  the  value  and  interests  of  the 
expedition,  and  you  enter  upon  them  with  my  entire  confidence  as  to  their  successful  accom 
plishment. 

Yours,  &c., 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 

Mr.  TINKHAM. 


No.  6. 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

St.  Mary's  Valley,  October  3,  1853. 

MY  DEAR  SIR  :  I  send  you  by  Mr.  Monroe  a  sketch  of  the  several  routes  already  examined 
from  Fort  Benton  to  this  point,  to  which  Mr.  Tinkham  will  add,  on  his  arrival  at  Fort  Benton, 
the  routes  examined  by  him. 

1st.  A  route  from  the  Blackfeet  fork  to  the  Jocko  river;  and,  2d,  a  route  by  the  Marias  Pass, 
from  this  point  to  Fort  Benton.  I  have  requested  Mr.  Tinkham  to  make  known  to  you  the 
character  of  these  several  examinations,  and  to  confer  with  you  in  relation  to  the  best  direction  to 
be  given  to  your  work  from  Fort  Benton.  Should  it  be  deemed  by  you  practicable,  or  compatible 
with  your  other  duties,  you  will  accompany  Mr.  Tinkham  to  this  point  to  confer  with  Mr. 
Mullan,  and  then  return  to  Fort  Benton.  My  object  is  to  bring  the  operations,  by  way  of  con 
ference  between  the  two  parties,  and  the  communicability  of  information,  into  connexion,  so 
that  the  best  results  may  be  accomplished.  I  earnestly  desire  this  to  be  done,  and  I  am 
satisfied  it  is  entirely  practicable.  The  Flatheads  pass  the  mountains  all  through  the  fall,  and 
till  after  new  year's.  All  this  is,  however,  left  to  your  own  judgment  and  discretion,  in  which 
I  place  entire  confidence.  It  will  be  necessary  that  the  animals  be  kept  in  the  best  possible 
condition — oxen,  horses,  and  mules.  The  operations  of  the  winter  will  be  more  extensive  than 
was  anticipated,  and  it  is  of  the  greatest  consequence  that  every  animal  be  in  condition  for 
service.  You  may  expect  Mr.  Tinkham  by  the  20th  instant,  and  it  is  important  that  he  should 
have  an  effective  train  to  return.  The  two  ponies  which  I  left  with  you  must  not  be  put  to  the 
hard  work  of  crossing  the  mountains,  but  the  remaining  animals  may  be  brought  into  requisition. 
At  this  point  we  leave  nearly  eighty  animals,  sixty  of  which  will  be  effective  in  the  course  of 
this  month,  and  will  be  sufficient  for  Mr.  Tinkham' s  route  to  the  Pacific  from  this  point,  to 
provide  for  your  return  to  Fort  Benton,  and  for  the  operations  of  Mr.  Mullan,  who  has  with 
him  fifteen  men. 

Our  operations  to  this  point  have  been  very  successful.  The  principal  party  under  Lieuten 
ant  Donelson  moved  yesterday.  I  move  to-day  to  visit  Colville,  and  thence  make  the  best  of 
my  way  to  the  sound. 

Yours  truly, 

Mr.  DOTY.  ISAAC  L 


CAMP  ON  ST.  MARY'S  RIVER, 

Thirty-three  Miles  below  St.  Mary's  Village,  October  7,  1853. 
Mr.  Tinkham  got  in  last  evening,  and  starts  on  his  examination  this  morning. 
Since  writing  the  above  I  have  met  Victor,  the  chief  of  the  Flatheads,  and  nine  lodges  of 
Flathead  Indians.     He  starts  in  two  days  across  the  mountains  on  a  buffalo  hunt,  and  will 
return  in  November.     His  people  will  remain  till  after  Christmas  :  so  much  for  these  horrible 
mountains. 

V 


66  LETTER    TO   LIEUTENANT    GROVER. — ORDERS. 

Monroe,  Baptisto,  and  the  two  Piegans  go  by  Cadotte's  Pass.  One  of  the  Piegans  has  agreed 
to  accompany  you  to  St.  Mary's,  and  to  return  with  you  to  Fort  Benton.  He  is  the  more  deli 
cate  Indian  of  the  two,  and  the  better  Indian.  He  guided  me  to  St.  Mary's  and  is  very  trust 
worthy.  In  reference  to  the  service  of  Monroe,  Baptiste,  and  the  two  Indians,  I  shall  write  a 
special  letter. 

Yours,  &c., 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 
Mr.  DOTY. 


No.   7. 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  KAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

St.  Mary's  Valley,  October  3,  1853. 

MY  DEAR  GROVER  :  We  have  had  good  success  in  coming  through  the  mountains  :  fine 
weather  and  no  snow.  All  the  parties  were  here  on  the  30th  September,  except  that  of  Mr. 
Tinkham,  who  is  out  examining  a  route  from  the  valley  of  the  Blackfeet  river  to  the  Jocko 
river  to  see  if  the  defile  ending  in  Hell  Grate  cannot  be  avoided.  Donelson  left  yesterday  in. 
charge  of  the  principal  party,  and  I  shall  move  off  in  the  morning,  and  hope  to  reach  Fort  Col- 
ville  in  ten  to  twelve  days. 

In  your  examination  of  the  Dalles,  I  will  thank  you  to  examine  as  to  the  site  of  a  suitable 
depot  for  emigrant  purposes,  and  for  the  continuation  of  the  survey.  It  should  be  in  the  neigh 
borhood  of  grass  and  wood,  and  as  near  as  practicable  to  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation.  I 
have  left  a  good  store  of  provisions  for  you  at  this  point,  and  shall  make  every  exertion  to  send 
here  an  express  in  November  from  the  sound.  I  am  decidedly  of  the  opinion  that  you  will 
accomplish  the  undertaking  of  the  dog  train. 

Lieutenant  Mullan  is  left  in  charge  here,  with  Messrs.  Adams  and  Burr  as  assistants,  Sergeant 
Simpson  in  charge  of  animals,  and  twelve  men.     He  will  assist  you  in  every  way  in  his  power. 
The  doctors  will  also  remain  here  some  twenty  days,  with  two  men,  and  then  go  down  the  St. 
Mary's  river  and  the  Columbia  in  a  boat. 

I  shall  expect  to  see  you  in  Olympia  some  time  in  February,  and  to  congratulate  you  on  the 
success  of  your  enterprise. 

Yours,  &c,, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 


CAMP  ST.   MARY'S  VALLEY, 

Thirty-three  Miles  below  St.  Mary's  Village,  October  7,  1853 . 

Mr.  Tinkham  got  in  last  evening,  and  starts  on  his  examination  to-morrow.     He  will  reach 
Fort  Benton  by  the  20th  instant,  and  is  accompanied  by  a  good  Flathead  guide. 


No.  9. 
[ORDERS.] 

NORTHERN  PACIFIC  EAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Camp  Washington,  October  29,  1853. 

The  chief  of  the  exploration  congratulates  his  associates  upon  the  junction  of  the  eastern  and 
western  divisions  on  the  banks  of  the  Spokane  river,  and  for  the  successful  accomplishment  of 
the  great  object  of  their  joint  labors.  To  Captain  McClellan,  his  officers  and  men,  too  much 
credit  cannot  be  ascribed  for  their  indefatigable  exertions,  and  the  great  ability  of  all  kinds 
brought  to  their  division  of  the  work.  They  can  point  with  just  pride  to  the  determination  of 
two  practicable  passes  in  that  most  formidable  barrier  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  of  the 


LETTER    TO    LIEUTENANT   ARNOLD.  67 

Cascade  range,  and  to  a  most  admirable  development  of  the  unknown  geography  of  the  region 
eastward  to  the  Columbia,  as  showing  the  unsurpassed  skill  and  devotion  which  has  character 
ized  the  chief  of  the  division  and  all  of  his  associates. 

To  Lieutenant  Dorielson  and  his  command  thanks  have  already  been  tendered  for  their  pre 
vious  services.  But  special  commendation  is  now  due  for  the  constancy  and  success  which  have 
crowned  their  labors  on  their  difficult  line  of  Clark's  fork,  from  the  St.  Mary's  village  to  this 
point.  The  detached  party  under  Lieutenant  Grovcr,  engaged  in  the  survey  of  the  upper  Mis 
souri,  and  about  to  cross  the  mountains  with  a  dog  train;  the  parties  under  Lieutenant  Arnold, 
now  at  Fort  Colville;  under  Lieutenant  Mullan,  now  exploring  the  route  from  the  St.  Mary's 
valley  to  Fort  Hall ;  under  Dr.  Suckley,  on  his  way  in  a  boat,  with  two  men,  from  the  St.  Mary's 
valley  by  that  river,  Clark's  fork,  and  the  Columbia,  to  Fort  Colville;  Mr.  Tinkharn,  engaged  in 
the  exploration  of  the  Marias  Pass  and  the  broad  Flathead  trail;  and  Mr.  Doty,  in  charge  of  a 
meteorological  party  at  Fort  Benton,  must  not  be  forgotten.  They  have  all  developed  ability  of  a 
high  order  in  the  progress  of  the  exploration.  No  one  doubts  that  success  will  crown  their 
labors. 

The  chief  of  the  exploration  would  do  injustice  to  his  own  feelings  if  he  omitted  to  express 
his  admiration  for  the  various  labors  of  Mr.  Stanley,  the  artist  of  the  exploration.  Besides 
occupying  his  professional  field  with  an  ability  above  any  commendation  which  we  can  bestow, 
Mr.  Stanley  has  surveyed  two  routes — from  Fort  Benton  to  the  Cypress  mountain,  and  from  the 
St.  Mary's  valley  to  Fort  Colville  over  the  Bitter  Boot  range  of  mountains — to  the  furtherance 
of  our  geographical  information,  and  the  ascertaining  of  important  points  in  the  question  of  a 
railroad ;  and  he  has  also  rendered  effectual  services  in  both  cases,  and  throughout  his  services 
with  the  exploration,  in  intercourse  with  the  Indians. 

Our  labors  are  near  their  conclusion  for  the  present  season,  and  it  only  remains  to  go  into 
quarters.  The  two  divisions,  under  the  respective  commands  of  Captain  McClellan  and  Lieu 
tenant  Donelson,  will  proceed  to  the  Columbia  barracks  by  way  of  Wallah- Wallah  and  the 
Dalles,  and  then  await  instructions  as  to  the  discharge  of  their  men  and  the  arrangements 
for  the  office-work.  The  animals  will  be  left  at  Wallah- Wallah  and  the  Dalles,  in  the  charge 
of  trustworthy  men,  to  be  cared  for  during  the  winter,  in  readiness  for  operations  in  the  spring. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploring  Expedition,  &c. 


No.  10. 

CAMP  WASHINGTON, 

Ttoelve  Miles  South  of  Spokane  House,  October  29,  1853. 

SIR:  We  met  the  party  of  Lieutenant  Donelson  at  this  place  yesterday,  and  from  him  I 
learned  that  you  probably  reached  Colville  yesterday.  Besides  the  instructions  which  I  left 
there  for  you  with  Mr.  McDonald,  I  have  only  to  suggest  that  in  your  route  to  Wallah- Wallah 
it  will  be  well  to  examine  the  Grande  Coulee.  It  is  left  free  with  you,,  however,  to  decide, 
should  the  lateness  of  the  season  or  the  condition  of  your  animals  make  it  advisable,  whether 
you  will  take  this  route  or  pursue  the  best  known  trail  to  Wallah- Wallah,  concerning  which  you 
can  receive  full  information  from  Mr.  McDonald.  You  are  authorized,  should  your  judgment 
dictate  it,  to  leave  your  animals  at  Colville,  making  arrangements  with  McDonald  for  their  safe 
keeping  ;  and,  in  connexion  with  Dr.  Suckley,  to  descend  the  Columbia  river  in  a  boat,  making 
the  best  survey  you  can.  I  send  you  a  memorandum  of  points,  in  the  line  of  the  Columbia, 
particularly  requiring  attention,  which  has  been  proposed  by  Captain  McClellan.  Although  it 
is  desirable  to  meet  Dr.  Suckley,  and  with  him  confer  upon  your  own  and  his  future  operations, 
it  must  not  be  done  at  the  expense  of  too  much  time ;  and  you  are  authorized,  should  you  not 
meet  him.  at  Colville  on  your  return,  from  the  upper  Columbia,  to  move  at  once  to  Wallah- 


68  LETTERS    TO   DR.    SUCKLEY    AND    LIEUTENANT   MULLAN. 

Wallah.  At  Wallah- Wallah  you  will  receive  additional  instructions.  We  have  met  Garry, 
the  chief  of  the  Spokanes,  and  I  am  highly  pleased  with  him.  He  is  a  man  of  entire  honesty 
and  great  energy,  and  well  calculated  to  be  chief  of  his  tribe.  Under  his  auspices  I  think  his 
people  will  improve  rapidly.  You  are  aware  of  my  wish  to  establish  a  meteorological  post 
between  the  Cascade  and  Bitter  Hoot  mountains. 

I  wish  you  would  consider  this  matter  and  endeavor  to  advise  me  in  regard  to  its  location  and 
the  manner  in  which  it  should  be  conducted.  Three  places  come  into  competition,  Wallah- 
Wallah,  Fort  Colville,  and  the  Spokane  river  ;  and  I  am  at  present  inclined  to  the  opinion  that 
Wallah- Wallah  is  the  most  suitable. 

Give  all  the  attention  you  possibly  can  to  the  Indians,  particularly  to  the  Spokane  and  Nez 
Perces. 

Yours,  &c.} 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 

Lieut.  K.  ARNOLD,  kth  Artillery. 


No.  11. 

CAMP  WASHINGTON, 

Twelve  Miles  South  of  Spokane  House,  October  29,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  I  have  learned  from  Mr.  McDonald,  at  Colville,  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  people  never 
attempt  the  passage  of  the  Columbia  in  boats  from  the  Pend  d'Oreille  mission;  and  I  have 
therefore  requested  Lieutenant  Arnold,  now  at  Colville,  to  send  to  the  mission  a  guide,  and 
with  the  suggestion  that  you  come  from  that  point  by  land. 

My  object  in  this  is  to  inform  you,  so  far  as  I  learn,  of  the  dangers  ahead,  that  you  may  not 
be  exposed  to  unnecessary  risk.  I  have  also  suggested  to  Lieutenant  Arnold,  that,  on  your 
meeting  him  at  Colville,  you  should  mutually  confer  in  reference  to  your  future  operations. 

You  may  deem  it  advisable  to  accompany  him  by  land,  and  I  have  given  to  him  authority, 
should  the  lateness  of  the  season  or  the  condition  of  his  animals  forbid  his  journey  by  land,  to 
descend  the  river  in  a  boat;  in  which  case  I  shall  wish  to  have  you  go  together.  My  object  in 
making  these  suggestions  is  to  guard  yourself  and  your  men  from  unnecessary  risk,,  and  not  to 
interfere  in  the  slightest  degree  with  the  field  you  wish  to  occupy.  I  wish  that  field  should  be 
occupied  as  fully  as  the  lateness  of  the  season  and  the  means  in  your  power  will  permit,  that 
the  best  results  may  be  gained. 

Yours,  truly, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  &c. 
Dr.  GEORGE  SUCKLEY. 


No.  13. 

CAMP  WASHINGTON, 

Twelve  Miles  South  of  Spokane  House,  October  29,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  Our  eastern  and  western  divisions  have  met  at  this  point,  and  the  train  has  now 
been  carried  entirely  across.  Captain  McClellan  has  discovered  two  passes  in  the  Cascade  range, 
north  of  Mount  Rainier,  and  has  explored  the  whole  range  from  the  Columbia  to  the  49th  par 
allel.  He  and  the  officers  with  him  are  in  excellent  health,  and  have  done  an  immense  amount 
of  work.  Last  evening  we  had  a  little  supper  or  meeting  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  two  divisions, 
at  which  your  name,  and  those  of  other  gentlemen  on  detached  service,  were  not  forgotten.  I 
have  borne  constantly  in  mind  what  I  told  you  in  regard  to  supplying  provisions  and  Indian 
goods,  and  I  will  avail  myself  of  the  very  first  opportunity  to  do  so. 


LETTERS    TO    MR.    TINKHAM    AND    TO    THE   SECRETARY   OF   WAR.  69 

I  hope  to  meet  Mr.  Owen,  by  whom  I  will  send  some  powder;  and  I  think  you  will  be  able 
to  get  from  him  some  sugar,  coffee,  and  other  indispensable  articles.  As  regards  the  expresses, 
I  shall  make  every  endeavor  to  establish  them,  but  may  not  succeed. 

It  is  a  matter  which  I  deem  of  very  great  importance,  that  you  should  receive  intelligence 
from  us,  and  that  we  should  hear  of  your  movements ;  and  you  may  rest  assured  that  no  effort 
on  my  part  will  be  wanting. 

Our  parties  are  all  now  to  move  to  Wallah-Wallah  and  the  Dalles,  where  we  shall  leave  the 
animals ;  thence  to  Columbia  barracks,  when  the  men  will  be  discharged  and  the  office  force 
made  up,  which  will  proceed  to  Olympia  by  way  of  the  Columbia  and  Cowlitz  rivers. 

Yours,  truly, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 
Lieutenant  MULLAN, 

St,  Mary's  Village. 


No.  14. 

CAMP  WASHINGTON, 
Twelve  Miles  South  of  Spokane  House,  October  29,  1853. 

DEAII  SIR:  We  have  met  at  this  place  the  eastern  and  western  divisions,  and  our  success  is 
complete.  Captain  McClellan  has  found  two  passes  through  the  Cascade  ridge,  north  of  Mount 
Rainier.  Last  evening  we  had  a  supper,  at  which  you  were  particularly  remembered,  and  your 
services  referred  to. 

I  have  met  Jack,  the  guide  of  Lieutenant  Macfeely,  who  speaks  of  the  Nez  Perces  trail  to 
Wallah- Wallah  as  quite  severe.  They  were  twenty-two  days  in  going — stopping  two  days, 
however,  for  a  missing  man — and  lost  twenty  animals.  They  did  not  get  on  the  true  trail, 
however ;  in  the  words  of  the  guide,  they  struck  too  high  up.  This  letter  will  probably  reach 
St.  Mary's  about  the  time  of  your  arrival  there;  and  I  think  before  deciding  to  go  by  the 
southern  Nez  Perces  route,  in  conformity  with  instructions  already  received,  you  should  get  all 
possible  information  from  the  Indians. 

There  seems  to  be  no  doubt  that  the  route  by  Clark's  fork,  taken  by  Lieutenants  Saxton  and 
Bonelson,  is  the  best  in  a  severe  season;  and  you  have  authority,  should  your  information  lead 
you  to  the  belief  that  the  Nez  Perces  route  will  expose  you  to  too  much  risk,  to  take  this  route. 

In  reference  to  the  goods  for  your  guide,  I  have  them  together,  and  will  send  them  by  Mr. 
Owen,  if  we  meet  him,  as  I  trust  we  shall;  but  if  not,  you  had  better  arrange  with  Mr.  Owen, 
at  St.  Mary's,  to  pay  him  there. 

All  parties  will  move  from  this  point  to  Wallah- Wallah  and  the  Dalles,  where  the  animals 
will  be  left  over  winter ;  thence  to  Columbia  barracks,  when  the  men  will  be  discharged,  and 
then  to  Olympia  for  office-work. 

Truly  yours,  &c., 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 

N.  B. — The  goods  for  your  guide  are  as  follows:  four  blankets,  four  pair  leggins  (cloth.) 
A.  W.  TINKIIAM. 


OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

December  19,  1853. 

SIR:  During  the  last  week  the  parties  of  Captain  McClellan  and  Lieutenant  Donelson  have 
reached  Olympia,  and  are  now  prepared  to  enter  upon  the  office-work.  During  this  week 
Captain  McClellan  will  leave  this  place  to  explore  the  region  west  of  the  Cascade  mountains, 
with  a  view  of  bringing  the  railroad  line  down  to  a  good  harbor  on  Puget  sound;  to  deter- 


70  LETTER  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 

mine  Ihe  proper  location  of  the  military  road,  and  to  examine  the  work  already  executed  upon 
it.  The  mild  weather  we  are  now  experiencing  will  favor  his  operations  greatly.  I  shall  here 
establish  a  meteorological  post,  keeping  up  a  series  of  complete  observations  during  the  winter. 
The  latitude  and  longitude  will  also  be  determined  with  all  possible  accuracy.  I  am  pleased  to 
be  able  to  report  the  arrival  of  Dr.  Suckley,  with  his  little  party.  His  trip  by  canoe  from  the 
St.  Mary's  village  has  been  entirely  successful,  having  accomplished  the  entire  distance  to  Fort 
Vancouver  by  water,  with  the  exception  of  about  sixty  miles  above  Fort  Colville,  where  the 
rapids  are  so  frequent  and  dangerous  in  their  nature  that  its  passage  by  water  is  seldom 
attempted.  I  will,  in  the  following  extract  from  his  report,  give  the  results  achieved  by  him  : 
"  *  *  Agreeable  to  instructions  received  from  you,  dated  October  2,  I  had  consid 

erable  difficulty  in  making  a  canoe  which  would  answer  the  purpose.  A  skin  boat,  made  of 
three  bullock's  hides,  was  at  length  constructed,  and  on  the  loth  of  the  same  month  I  embarked 
with  two  white  men  and  an  Indian,  to  descend  the  Bitter  Boot  river.  The  inhabitants  of  St. 
Mary's  were  entirely  unacquainted  with  the  nature  of  the  river,  and  its  capabilities  for  canoe 
navigation,  no  boats  ever  having  been  known  to  ascend  the  river  higher  than  the  Horse 
Plain,  just  below  the  junction  of  the  St.  Mary's  and  Pend  d'Oreille  rivers.  My  trip  being  con 
sidered  so  hazardous,  I  was  obliged  to  proceed  with  great  caution,  and  it  was  not  until  the 
eleventh  day  that  I  reached  the  latter  river.  On  the  twenty-fifth  day  after  my  departure  from 
St.  Mary's,  I  reached  the  Pend  d'Oreille  mission.  My  provision  had  entirely  given  out,  but, 
thanks  to  the  kindness  and  hospitality  of  the  good  missionaries  at  that  point,  my  stock  was 
replenished.  Here  I  found  that  the  skin  canoe  had  become  so  rotten  that  it  became  necessary, 
in  case  I  proceeded  farther  by  wTater,  to  obtain  a  new  boat.  Owing  to  the  miscarriage  of  some 
letters  of  instruction  which  had  been  sent  to  me  from  you,  and  from  a  wrong  impression  on  the 
minds  of  the  priests,  to  the  effect  that  they  had  heard  of  your  having  sent  positive  orders  to  me 
to  relinquish  the  trip,  I  was  reluctantly  compelled  to  take  horses  and  proceed  to  Fort  Colville, 
on  the  Columbia  river,  distant  sixty  miles  by  land.  The  distance  by  the  river  may  be  a  little 
more.  It  is  my  opinion,  from  what  I  could  learn  from  observation  and  report,  that  I  could 
have  descended  the  Clark  river  to  that  point,  although,  of  course,  I  should  have  been  obliged 
to  use  great  caution,  as  nothing  definite  is  known  by  the  Indians  or  others  concerning  this  part 
of  the  river.  I  suppose  that  the  river  would  be  navigated  by  the  Indians,  in  their  canoes,  if 
there  was  any  inducement.  Their  hunting  grounds  lie  in  an  opposite  direction,  and  they  are 
too  indolent  to  travel  for  the  sake  of  exploring  or  for  pastime.  On  the  13th  of  November*! 
arrived  at  Fort  Colville,  where  I  obtained  further  supplies,  two  canoes,  and  three  Indians.  On 
the  l*7th  I  again  embarked,  reaching  Fort  Vancouver  on  the  6th  of  December.  On  the  route  I 
stopped  at  Fort  Okinakane,  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  the  Dalles,  and  Cascades,  and  obtained  such 
supplies  as  I  needed.  The  time  occupied  in  making  the  whole  distance  was  fifty-three  days,  or 
two  days  less  than  were  occupied  by  the  main  train,  under  Lieutenant  Donelson,  between  the 
same  points.  The  running  time,  exclusive  of  stops,  was  285-^-  hours,  and  the  distance,  (approx 
imative,)  as  measured  by  the  course  of  the  rivers,  including  the  greater  and  lesser  bends,  one 
thousand  and  forty-nine  miles.  This  will  give  the  average  speed  of  3.774  miles  per  hour. 
There  were  but  three  portages  on  the  whole  route  of  any  magnitude ;  one  of  thirteen  hundred 
paces  on  the  Clark  river,  above  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille;  one  on  the  Columbia,  at  the  Dalles,  of 
eight  hundred  paces;  and  lastly,  one  on  the  Cascades,  one  and  a  half  mile  in  length.  On  the 
latter,  I  made  use  of  the  wooden  railway  to  convey  the  canoes  and  their  loads.  It  should  be 
borne  in  mind  that  this  passage  was  made  at  the  lowest  stage  of  water,  when  the  current  was 
proportionately  feeble. 

"  The  Bitter  Hoot  river  was  quite  shallow  in  many  places,  and  my  canoe,  which,  when  loaded, 
drew  about  ten  inches  of  water,  had  frequently  to  be  lightened.  After  reaching  the  St.  Mary's 
river,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  last-mentioned  stream  and  the  Hell  Gate  river,  I  always 
had  sufficient  depth  of  water.  About  sixty  miles  (by  the  river)  below  the  mouth  of  the  Hell 
Gate  river,  the  mountains  approach  very  closely  to  the  bed  of  the  stream,  rendering  its  current 


LETTER   TO   THE   SECRETARY   OP  WAR.  71 

very  swift  and  tortuous,  abounding  in  rapids.  Farther  down  it  is  straighter,  with  large  flats 
on  one  or  both  sides,  channel  deeper,  and  current  more  sluggish.  At  a  point  about  sixty  miles 
above  the  Pend  d'Oreille  mission  (of  St.  Ignatius)  is  the  Pend  d'Oreille  or  Kalispem  lake, 
formed  by  a  dilatation  of  the  river.  It  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  about  forty-five  miles  in 
length.  Below  this  the  river  is  sluggish  and  wide  for  some  twenty-six  miles,  when  rapids  are 
again  encountered  during  low  water.  From  a  point  nine  miles  above  the  lake  to  these  rapids, 
a  distance  of  about  eighty  miles,  steamboats  drawing  from  twenty  to  twenty-four  inches  can 
readily  ascend.  In  higher  water,  of  course,  the  distance  will  be  lengthened.  There  would 
then  be  but  one  bad  obstacle  between  the  Cabinet,  twenty-five  miles  above  lake  Pend  d'Oreille, 
and  a  point  some  ten  miles  below  the  mission,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  forty  miles.  The 
obstacle  alluded  to  is  where  the  river  is  divided  by  a  rock  island,  with  a  fall  of  six  and  a  half 
feet  on  each  side.  At  this  point  a  lock  might  readily  be  constructed. 

"The  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  large  freight  boats  are  in  the  habit  of  ascending  from  the  lower 
end  of  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake  to  the  Horse  Plain,  a  distance  of  135  miles;  this  involves  two 
portages. 

"On  the  Columbia  river,  between  the  mouths  of  the  Spokane  andDe  Chute's  rivers,  a  distance 
of  about  350  miles,  there  are  but  three  bad  obstacles  to  navigation  for  steamboats  drawing  from 
twenty  to  thirty  inches.  The  principal  of  these  are  the  Priest  and  Buckland's  rapids.  These 
might  probably  be  locked,  or  so  modified  by  art  as  to  render  them  passable  for  steamboats  or 
other  craft.  The  mouth  of  the  De  Chute's  river  is  about  eight  miles  above  the  present  steam 
boat  landing  at  the  Dalles.  I  have  dwelt  on  these  particulars,  knowing  how  important  this 
matter  will  prove,  in  relation  to  questions  of  railroad  construction  and  the  transportation  of 
supplies. 

"From  the  Horse  Plain,  before  spoken  of,  the  river,  so  far  as  I  examined  it,  would  be  excellent 
for  rafting  purposes.  Timber  in  this  manner  could  be  transported  a  great  distance.  Above 
this  to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  I  cannot  give  a  decided  opinion  in  its  favor,  but  am  inclined  to 
the  opinion  that  rafts  might  run.  At  any  rate,  logs  could  be  readily  driven  down  by  the  cur 
rent  from  an  immense  distance.  While  on  the  subject  of  timber,  I  will  briefly  allude  to  its 
quantity  and  quality.  Along  the  Bitter  Pioot  and  Hell  Grate  rivers,  and  the  mountains  in  their 
vicinity,  the  red  pine  and  larch,  favorite  trees  in  ship-building,  are  found  in  great  quantity. 
The  white  pine,  cotton-wood,  and  wild  cherry  are  also  found,  although  not  in  such  quantity. 
Farther  down  these  streams  we  find,  in  addition,  cypress  or  cedar,  hemlock,  spruce  and  fir,  be 
sides  several  hard-wood  trees.  The  timbered  country  extends  from  the  main  range  of  the  Kocky 
mountains  to  a  point  about  eighty  miles  below  Fort  Colville.  From  that  to  the  Dalles  there  is 
no  timber.  At  the  Dalles  it  again  appears,  and  trees  of  many  descriptions,  and  frequently  of 
enormous  size,  are  found  thickly  covering  the  valleys  and  surrounding  hills. 

"Excellent  building  stone  is  found  along  nearly  the  whole  route.  There  are  pieces  of  excel 
lent  land  along  the  rivers.  Their  waters  are  clear  and  beautiful,  and  filled  with  thousands 
of  the  different  kinds  of  the  salmon  family.  The  country  above  the  Dalles  is  remarkably 
healthy."  *  *  * 

Dr.  Suckley  reports  that  Lieutenant  Arnold  had  reached  Wallah- Wallah,  and  would  imme 
diately  come  on.  Lieutenant  A.  had  been  entirely  successful — had  accurately  determined  the 
latitude  of  the  mouth  of  the  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  and  had  made  an  examination  of  the 
Grand  Coulee,  which  in  its  character  is  found  to  differ  essentially  from  published  results.  Mr. 
Tinkham,  now  on  his  way  from  St.  Mary's,  is  probably  through  the  mountains  and  within  six 
to  ten  days  of  Wallah-Wallah.  Our  examinations  down  the  line  of  the  Columbia  prove  it  en 
tirely  practicable  for  a  railroad,  and  the  line  along  Cowlitz  river  and  thence  to  Puget  sound  is 
remarkably  cheap,  as  well  as  easy  of  construction.  Puget  sound  can  certainly  be  reached  by 
two  practicable  routes,  the  line  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass  with  a  single  tunnel — say  three  thou 
sand  yards  long,  and  with  grades  not  exceeding  forty  feet — and  the  line  of  the  Columbia  and 


72  LETTER  FROM  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 

Cowlitz,  with  somewhat  easier  grades,  with  no  tunnels,  but  involving  an  increased  distance  of, 
in  round  numbers,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 

The  office-work  is  commenced  with  great  vigor,  and  I  hope  to  be  able  to  despatch  my  pre 
liminary  report  in  a  month's  time. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington. 


WAR  DEPARTMENT^ 

Washington,  December  1,  1853. 

SIR:  I  have  received,  with  your  letter  of  the  28th  of  September,  a  duplicate  of  that  of  Sep 
tember  8th,  (the  original  has  not  come  to  hand,)  in  which  you  state  that  the  funds  allotted  for 
the  survey  under  your  charge  would  be  exhausted  by  the  middle  of  October,  from  which  time 
to  the  30th  of  June  next  you  would  require  $30,000,  in  monthly  instalments  ;  and  you  add  an 
estimate  of  $40,000  for  the  operations  of  your  party  for  the  next  fiscal  year,  ending  June  30) 
1855. 

The  department  very  much  regrets  that,  with  a  full  knowledge  of  the  extent  of  the  means  at 
the  disposal  of  the  department  for  the  survey  intrusted  to  you,  you  have  so  made  your  arrange 
ments  as  to  absorb  all  your  funds  so  long  before  the  completion  of  the  work.  I  have  no  means 
of  meeting  any  further  demands  for  the  expenses  of  your  party. 

In  the  instructions  from  this  department  of  April  8,  you  were  directed  to  bring  your  opera 
tions  to  a  close,  and  submit  a  general  report  before  the  first  Monday  in  February  next,  when 
the  law  requires  all  reports  to  be  laid  before  Congress.  All  arrangements  looking  to  the  ex 
tension  of  your  operations  beyond  the  time  indicated  in  those  instructions  are  without  authority ; 
and  you  are  directed  to  close  your  work  in  the  manner  therein  prescribed. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

JEFF'N  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS. 


PART    II. 

REPORT. 


CHAPTER  I. 

General  Instructions  and  Arrangements. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  June  30,  3854. 

SIR:  On  the  8th  of  April  of  last  year  I  was  assigned  to  the  charge  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Rail 
road  Exploration  and  Survey,  under  the  following  instructions : 

"  WAR  DEPARTMENT, 

"  Washington,  April  8,  1853. 

"The  War  Department  being  directed  by  a  recent  act  of  Congress  to  survey  the  several  routes 
of  a  railroad  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  it  has  been  determined  to  explore 
and  survey  a  route  from  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  river  to  Puget  sound;  and  the  following 
instructions  are  given  in  relation  to  it,  and  for  the  information  and  direction  of  the  several  branches 
of  the  service : 

"]st.  The  exploration  and  survey  is  placed  in  charge  of  Isaac  I.  Stevens,  governor  of  the 
Territory  of  Washington,  to  whom  all  officers  detailed  for  the  same  will  report  for  instructions. 

"2d.  The  general  project  of  the  operation,  subject  to  such  modifications  as  circumstances  may 
direct,  is  to  operate  from  St.  Paul,  or  some  eligible  point  on  the  upper  Mississippi,  towards  the 
great  bend  of  the  Missouri  river,  arid  thence  on  the  table-land  between  the  tributaries  of  the 
Missouri  and  those  of  the  Saskatchawan  to  some  eligible  pass  in  the  Rocky  mountains.  A  depot 
will  be  established  at  Fort  Union,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone,  and  a  portion  of  the  party 
will  rendezvous  there  and  await  the  coming  up  of  the  main  body.  A  second  party  will  proceed 
at  once  to  Puget  sound,  and  explore  the  passes  of  the  Cascade  range,  meeting  the  eastern 
party  between  that  range  and  the  Rocky  mountains,  as  may  be  arranged  by  Governor  Stevens. 

"3d.  As  in  the  prosecution  of  this  exploration  and  survey  it  will  be  necessary  to  explore  the 
passes  of  the  Cascade  range  and  of  the  Rocky  mountains  from  the  forty-ninth  parallel  to  the  head 
waters  of  the  Missouri  river,  and  to  determine  the  capacity  of  the  adjacent  country  to  supply, 
and  of  the  Columbia  and  Missouri  rivers  and  their  tributaries  to  transport,  materials  for  the  con 
struction  of  the  road,  great  attention  will  be  given  to  the  geography  and  meteorology  generally 
of  the  whole  intermediate  region;  to  the  seasons  and  character  of  its  freshets;  the  quantities 
and  continuance  of  its  rains  and  snows,  especially  in  the  mountain  ranges;  to  its  geology,  in 
arid  regions  keeping  particularly  in  view  the  bringing  of  water  to  the  surface  by  means  of 
artesian  wells;  its  botany,  natural  history,  agricultural  and  mineral  resources;  the  location, 
numbers,  history,  traditions  and  customs  of  its  Indian  tribes;  and  such  other  facts  as  shall  tend 
10  / 


74  GENERAL   INSTRUCTIONS   AND   ARRANGEMENTS. 

to  develop  the  character  of  that  portion  of  our  national  domain,  and  supply  all  the  facts  which 
enter  into  the  solution  of  the  particular  problem  of  a  railroad. 

"4th.  Brevet  Captain  George  13.  MeClellan,  already  under  orders  to  report  to  Governor 
Stevens,  is  assigned"  to  duty  on  this  survey,  according  to  his  brevet  rank. 

"5th.  Captain  John  W.  T.  Gardiner,  first  dragoons;  Captain  Joseph  Roberts,  fourth  artillery; 
Second  Lieutenant  Johnson  K.  Duncan,  third  artillery;  Second  Lieutenant  Rufus  Saxton,  jr., 
fourth  artillery;  Second  Lieutenant  Cuvier  Grover,  fourth  artillery,  and  Brevet  Second  Lieutenant 
John  Mullan,  jr.,  first  artillery,  are  assigned  to  duty  on  this  survey,  and  will  report  to  Governor 
Stevens  for  instructions. 

"6th.  In  addition  to  Lieutenant  A.  J.  Donelson  and  ten  non-commissioned  officers,  artificers  and 
privates  of  the  engineer  company,  already  under  orders  for  the  expedition,  one  sergeant,  two  cor 
porals,  one  musician,  and  sixteen  privates  of  company  D,  first  dragoons,  now  stationed  at  Fort 
Snelling,  will  be  placed  at  the  disposal  of  Governor  Stevens;  and,  in  view  of  the  character  of  the 
service,  the  officers  of  the  company  are  required  to  select  none  but  tried  men  and  animals  for  the 
duty. 

"7th.  In  the  exploration  of  the  Cascade  range,  the  brigadier  general  in  command  of  the  Pacific 
division  will  assign  to  Captain  McClellan  two  officers  from  those  who  may  volunteer  for  the 
service,  and  thirty  men,  to  be  selected  from  the  several  companies  stationed  in  the  Territory  of 
Washington,  and  on  the  Columbia  river.  Every  facility  will  be  given  to  Captain  McClellan  and 
his  party  in  the  discharge  of  their  difficult  and  important  duties,  and  much  is  expected  from  the 
hearty  co-operation  and  assistance  of  the  officers  and  troops  stationed  in  the  Territory. 

"  Sth.  The  several  administrative  branches  of  -the  service  will,  on  requisition  duly  approved 
by  Governor  Stevens,  supply  the  officers,  soldiers,  and  civil  employes  of  the  expedition,  (except 
the  scientific  corps  and  their  assistants,)  with  transportation,  subsistence,  medical  stores,  and 
arms.  The  Quartermaster's  department  will  supply  funds  to  provide  means  of  transportation, 
and  to  pay  for  the  hired  men  of  the  department  attached  to  the  command.  The  Subsistence 
department  will  supply  rations,  or  funds  for  their  purchase.  The  Ordnance  department  will  fur 
nish  forty  Colt's  revolvers,  forty  Sharp's  patent  rifles,  forty  ordinary  rifles,  and  a  mountain  piece, 
with  the  necessary  ammunition,  and  a  travelling  forge.  The  Surgeon  General's  department  will 
assign  a  medical  officer  to  the  command,  having  skill  as  a  naturalist,  provided  he  can  be  detailed 
without  detriment  to  the  service. 

"9th.  After  the  completion  of  the  survey  of  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  such  portions 
of  the  officers,  troops,  and  employes,  both  of  the  escort  and  of  the  scientific  corps,  as  are  not 
needed  in  the  operation  westward  to  the  Pacific,  will  be  despatched  homeward  by  new  routes, 
still  further  to  develop  the  geography  and  resources  of  the  country.  Such  of  the  officers  and 
troops  as  are  not  wanted  for  office  duly,  will  report  to  their  several  stations ;  all  civil  employes 
not  necessary  for  a  similar  purpose  will  be  discharged,  and  the  office  force  will  proceed  to  such 
point  as  may  be  designated  by  Governor  Stevens,  to  prepare  the  usual  reports. 

"10th.  After  the  completion  of  the  field  examinations,  the  expedition  will  rendezvous  at  some 
point  in  the  Territory  of  Washington,  to  prepare  the  usual  reports,  sending  to  Washington  at  the 
earliest  practicable  moment  a  summary  of  the  principal  events  of  the  expedition,  and  a  railroad 
report,  to  be  laid  before  Congress,  on  or  before  the  1st  of  February,  to  be  followed  at  a  later 
period  by  an  elaborate  report,  presenting  a  full  account  of  the  labors  and  results  of  the  expedition. 

"llth.  The  sum  of  forty  thousand  dollars  ($40,000)  is  set  apart  from  the  appropriation  for  the 
survey  thus  intrusted  to  Governor  Stevens. 

"JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

" Secretary  of  War" 

In  conformity  with  these  instructions,  I  proceeded  to  organize  the  parties  for  the  work  assigned 
to  me,  took  the  field  in  person  at  the  earliest  practicable  period,  and  have  now  the  honor  to 


GENERAL  ARRANGEMENTS.  75 

submit  the  following  preliminary  report,  showing  the  progress  of  the  exploration  at  this  time, 
and  particularly  developing  the  facts  which  have  been  established  in  reference  to  the  practica 
bility  of  the  northern  route  for  a  railroad. 

You  have  already  been  advised,  by  my  previous  reports,  of  the  details  of  the  organization 
of  the  exploration,  and  of  its  narrative  and  history  to  the  present  time;  yet,  to  present  the  whole 
subject  in  one  view,  I  will  briefly  restate  the  plan  pursued  in  prosecuting  the  survey,  and  refer 
to  the  several  parties  employed  in  the  exploration,  and  the  routes  examined  by  them.  This  will 
be  done  with  all  possible  brevity;  and  for  fuller  information  I  will  refer  you  to  my  previous  com 
munications,  and  will  request  that  they  be  considered  as  forming  a  portion  of  this  report. 


CHAPTER   II. 
Field  Explored  ly  Different  Parties. 

As  the  field  contemplated  in  my  instructions  extended  from  the  great  lakes  to  the  Pacific 
coast,  and  from  the  49th  parallel  to  the  emigrant  route  of  the  South  Pass,  and  as  no  portion 
of  this  field  had  been  explored  since  the  days  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  except  a  small  portion 
towards  the  Pacific  coast;  as  a  portion  of  it  was  occupied  by  Indians  supposed  to  be  treacherous 
and  hostile,  and  as  it  was  in  a  high  latitude,  much  abridging  the  season  of  active  operations, 
it  was  determined  that  the  exploration  should  be  conducted  in  two  divisions,  operating  respect 
ively  from  the  Mississippi  river  and  Puget  sound;  and  that  a  depot  of  provisions  should  be 
established  by  a  third  parly  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  at  the  western  base  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  to  facilitate  the  winter  operations  of  the  exploration,  and  enable  the  exploring  parties 
to  continue  in  the  field  the  longest  practicable  period ;  and  that  all  the  parties  should  be  organ 
ized  in  a  military  manner  for  self-protection,  and  to  force  their  way  through  whatever  diffi 
culties  might  be  encountered. 

Accordingly,  Captain  George  B.  McClellan,  corps  of  engineers,  was  assigned  to  the  charge  of 
the  western  division;  Lieut.  Rut'us  Saxton,  jr.,  to  the  duty  of  establishing  a  depot  in  the  St. 
Mary's  valley;  and  the  eastern  division  was  under  my  own  personal  direction.  A  small  military 
force  was  assigned  to  each,  and  the  necessary  scientific  corps,  composed  of  officers  of  the 
army  and  civilians. 

The  western  division  was  charged  with  the  duty  of  exploring  the  passes  of  the  Cascade 
mountains,  from  the  Columbia  river  to  the  northern  parallel,  and  of  pushing  eastward  to  meet 
the  eastern  division  between  the  Cascade  and  Rocky  mountains.  Captain  McClellan  was  assisted 
in  this  duty  by  Second  Lieut.  Johnson  K.  Duncan,  third  artillery,  astronomer,  topographer, 
and  artist;  Second  Lieut.  S.  Mowr}r,  third  artillery,  in  charge  of  the  meteorological  operations; 
Second  Lieut.  H.  C.  Hodges,  fourth  infantry,  quartermaster  and  commissary;  J.  F.  Minter, 
Esq.,  civil  engineer;  George  Gibbs,  Esq.,  geologist  and  ethnologist;  Dr.  J.  G.  Cooper,  surgeon 
and  naturalist;  A.  L.  Lewis,  Esq.,  civil  engineer  and  interpreter. 

Lieut.  Rufus  Saxton,  jr.,  in  addition  to  establishing  the  depot  at  the  western  base  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  was  directed  to  make  a  reconnaissance  of  the  country  passed  over  by  him, 
with  the  view  of  combining  the  operations  of  the  eastern  and  western  divisions;  and  he  was 
assisted  in  this  duty  by  Second  Lieut.  Richard  Arnold,  third  artillery,  assisted  by  Mr.  Lyman 
Arnold,  in  charge  of  astronomical  observations;  Second  Lieut.  R.  Macfeely,  fourth  infantry,  in 
command  of  the  escort;  and  D.  S.  Hoyt,  meteorologist  and  topographer. 

The  eastern  division,  excluding  the  mention  of  certain  officers  and  civilians  who  were  on  duty 
only  for  a  short  time,  and  whose  cases  have  been  brought  to  your  notice  in  previous  reports,  con- 
sisied  of  Second  Lieut.  \.  J.  Donelson,  corps  of  engineers,  in  command  of  a  detachment  of  ten 
sappers  and  mintrs;  Second  Lieut.  Cuvier  Grover,  fourth  artillery;  Second  Lieut.  John  Mul- 
lan,  fourth  artillery;  Doctor  George  Suckley,  surgeon  arid  naturalist;  Isaac  F.  Osgood,  Esq., 
disbursing,  quartermaster's,  and  commissary  agent;  J.  M.  Stanley,  artist;  F.  W.  Lander  and 
A.  W.  Tiukham,  Esq>.,  civil  engineers;  John  Lambert,  Esq.,  topographer;  George  W.  Stevens, 
E.-q.,  astronomer,  iinrl  for  a  portion  of  the  route  in  charge  of  the  magnetic  observations,  assisted 
by  James  Doty;  William  M.  Graham,  Esq.,  astronomer;  Joseph  MofTett,  meteorologist;  T.  S. 


FIELD    PARTIES    AND    OPERATIONS.  77 

Everett,  Esq.,  quartermaster  and  commissary's  clerk;  Thomas  Adams,  assistant  topographer; 
William  M.  Bixby,  in  charge  of  compass-line,  and  B.  F.  Kendall,  Elwood  Evans,  Charles  E. 
Evelyn,  and  F.  H.  Burr,  aids.  A  detachment  of  twenty  men  of  the  first  dragoons  was  on  duty 
with  this  division,  and  the  necessary  quartermaster  and  survey  employes. 

Besides  which,  the  services  of  Dr.  John  Evans  were  secured  as  the  geologist,  and  those  of 
Professor  S.  F.  Baird  as  the  naturalist,  of  the  exploration. 

In  the  execution  of  this  plan,  Lieut.  Donelson,  with  Lieut.  Mullan,  Mr.  Graham,  and  six  sap 
pers,  was  directed  to  survey  the  Missouri  river  from  St.  Louis  to  the  highest  point  it  might  be 
reached  by  the  steamer  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  to  establish  at  Fort  Union  a  large  depot 
of  supplies  and  provisions,  and  to  carefully  examine  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Union, 
from  the  White  Earth  to  the  Big  Muddy  rivers.  Mr.  Lander  was  despatched  in  April  to  the 
upper  Mississippi,  to  examine  the  several  crossings  of  that  river,  to  ascertain  the  point  which, 
giving  a  good  crossing,  would  furnish  the  best  connexions  east  with  Lake  Superior  and  the 
northwestern  roads,  and  west  with  the  probable  general  course  of  the  railroad  route,  and  to  report 
as  to  the  best  point  and  line  of  departure  of  the  main  party.  Mr.  Tinkham,  the  associate  civil 
engineer,  was  soon  afterwards  ordered  to  St.  Paul  with  instructions  to  co-operate  with  Mr.  Lander 
in  the  same  duty. 

The  main  party  was  ordered  to  rendezvous  at  St.  Paul,  and  a  camp  near  Fort  Snelling,  named 
Camp  Pierce,  was  there  established  under  Capt.  J.  W.  T.  Gardiner,  1st  dragoons,  who  was 
assigned  lo  the  command  of  the  escort,  and  acted  for  a  short  time  as  commissary  and  quarter 
master,  but  of  whose  services  I  was  afterwards  deprived  in  consequence  of  the  state  of  his  health, 
which  compelled  him  to  ask,  by  the  advice  of  the  surgeon,  to  be  relieved  from  duty.  Here  the 
necessary  arrangements  were  made  to  prepare  for  moving  into  the  interior. 

Previous  to  leaving  Washington  city,  I  had  despatched  Lieut.  Donelson  to  Montreal,  to  confer 
with  Sir  George  Simpson,  the  governor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  as  to  the  assistance  that 
might  be  given  to  our  operations,  and  had  procured  from  him  much  reliable  information  in  relation 
to  the  route,  and  circular  letters  to  all  the  posts  instructing  the  officers  of  the  company  to  afford 
every  aid  in  their  power.  Guides  were  also  sent  by  him  toPembina  for  the  exploration.  It  was 
my  intention  to  send  Lieut.  Beekrnan  Du  Barry,  3d  artillery,  to  Pembina,  to  get  these  guides, 
and,  moving  north  of  the  Miniwakan  lake,  to  meet  me  between  that  lake  and  Fort  Union;  but 
on  my  arrival  at  St.  Paul  I  became  convinced  that  they  were  not  needed,  and  I  accordingly 
determined  to  dispense  with  them  altogether. 

Lieut.  Du  Barry  was  then  assigned  to  the  general  charge  of  the  observations,  and  was  relieved 
from  duty  at  his  own  request,  on  the  arrival  of  the  expedition  at  Lightning  lake,  and  ordered  to 
report  to  the  Adjutant  General. 

I  arrived  at  St.  Paul  on  the  29th  May,  and  made  the  necessary  arrangements  for  moving  forward. 
Mr.  Lander  had  already  made  his  reconnaissance  of  the  crossings  of  the  Mississippi  river,  and  of 
the  adjacent  country,  to  determine  the  point  of  departure  of  the  main  train,  and  Mr.  Tinkham  had 
collected  much  information  from  Capt.  Simpson,  of  the  topographical  engineers,  and  the  explorers 
and  guides  of  the  country.  It  was  determined  to  organize  two  civil  engineer  parties,  under 
Messrs.  Lander  and  Tinkham  respectively ;  'the  former  to  mark  out  the  general  route — the  latter 
to  follow  making  the  topographical  survey  and  collecting  the  data  for  the  detailed  estimate ;  both 
to  push  forward  in  advance  of  the  main  train.  Their  general  route  was  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  river  to  Sauk  rapids,  and  thence  crossing  the  Mississippi  by  the  Red  river  trail  to  the 
general  region  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux. 

The  weather  was  exceedingly  rainy  at  this  time,  and  other  difficulties  occurred  which  delayed 
the  movement.  Adopting  the  plan,  however,  of  sending  forward  parties  and  wagons  in  detach 
ments,  as  fast  as  they  were  ready,  everything  was  on  the  road  by  the  8th  of  June,  and  on  the 
12th  the  whole  force  was  either  at  Carnp  Davis,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi  river,  or 
in  advance  on  the  Red  river  trail.  The  general  plan  of  operations  was  to  mark  out  a  base  line 


78  FIELD   PARTIES   AND   OPERATIONS. 

by  the  movement  of  the  train,  and  on  which  were  to  be  made  the  observations ;  and,  by  detached 
parties,  to  examine  important  land-marks  and  side-routes,  and  cover  as  much  of  the  country  as 
practicable.  Such  a  general  knowledge  was  thus  to  be  gained  of  the  country  as  will  give  the 
means  of  giving  locations  of  roads,  with  approximate  estimates  of  cost. 

On  reaching  Pike  lake,  on  the  Red  river  trail,  Lieutenant  Grover,  in  command  of  a  select  party 
of  nineteen  men,  was  detached  to  examine  a  route  to  Fort  Union,  by  Dead  Colt  Hillock,  whilst 
the  main  party,  under  my  own  personal  direction,  examined  a  more  northern  route,  crossing 
the  Shayenne  river  twice,  and  passing  some  twenty-five  miles  south  of  the  Miniwakan  lake. 

The  trails  of  the  two  commands  came  together  in  the  valley  of  Mouse  river,  and  they  reached 
Fort  Union  without  accident  of  any  kind — Lieutenant  Grover  on  the  25th  of  July,  and  the  main 
party  on  the  1st  of  August. 

It  is  proper  to  mention  that,  in  the  progress  of  the  main  party,  much  was  done  in  the  way  of 
reconnaissance  by  the  civil  engineer  parties.  Besides  the  usual  examination  on  the  line,  Mr. 
Lander  made  a  reconnaissance  of  the  valley  of  the  Shayenne  river,  between  the  two  crossings;  of 
a  portion  of  the  Coteau  de  Missouri,  some  tw^  ,ty  miles  westward  of  the  general  route,  and  of  the 
upper  valley  «f  Mouse  river ;  and  Mr.  Tinkham,  besides  being  in  charge  of  the  topographical 
survey  of  the  route,  added  materially  to  our  knowledge  of  the  course  and  character  of  the  streams 
by  detached  work. 

Lieutenant  Donelson  had  already  preceded  the  parties  operating  by  land,  had  made  the  survey 
of  the  Missouri  to  near  the  mouth  of  Milk  river,  and  a  reconnaissance  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity 
of  Fort  Union. 

On  the  9th  of  August  the  command  moved  from  Fort  Union  in  two  parties,  under  the  com 
mand  of  Lieutenants  Donelson  and  Grover ;  the  former  to  explore  a  route  leading  from  the  Mouse 
River  valley  under  the  49th  parallel,  and  the  latter  to  take  the  route  of  Milk  river,  travelled  by 
the  wagons  of  the  Fur  Companies,  and  both  to  rendezvous  at  Fort  Benton. 

At  the  Big  Muddy  river  the  two  commands  were  united  under  my  own  direction,  the  topo 
graphical  survey  of  the  route  placed  permanently  in  chirge  of  Mr.  Lambert,  and  the  Milk  river 
route  pursued  by  the  whole  party  till  it  approached  within  155  miles  of  Fort  Benton;  when, 
leaving  the  main  train  in  command  of  Lieutenant  Donelson,  I  went  forward  with  two  detached 
parties,  under  Lieutenant  Grover  and  Mr.  Lander,  and  reached  Fort  Benton  on  the  1st  of  Sep 
tember. 

Lieutenant  Grover  was,  on  the  5th,  sent  forward  to  cross  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  ascertain 
whether  Lieutenant  Saxton  had  established  a  depot  at  St.  Mary's  village,  and  Mr.  Lander  was 
ordered  to  be  in  readiness  to  survey  the  Marias  Pass. 

Lieutenant  Donelson  reached  Fort  Benton  on  the  6th  of  September,  and  Mr.  Tinkham,  who  by 
my  direction  had  been  assigned  to  the  duty  of  making  a  general  exploration  between  the  Milk 
and  Missouri  rivers,  on  the  9th  September. 

Dr.  Evans,  the  geologist  of  the  exploration,  reached  Fort  Benton  on  the  5th  September,  having 
made  a  large  collection  in  the  Mauvaises  Terres,  and  reconnaissances  of  the  country  south  of  the 
Missouri  and  Yellowstone,  and  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri  rivers.  He  left  Fort  Benton  for 
Oregon,  September  10. 

Without  noticing  minor  changes  of  programme,  it  will  be  sufficient  to  state  that  Lieutenant 
Grover  met  Lieutenant  Saxton  near  the  dividing  ridge,  and  that  both  reached  Fort  Benton  on 
the  13th  September,  with  information  of  the  establishment  of  a  depot  at  the  St.  Mary's  village ; 
that  Lieutenant  Grover  was  assigned  to  the  duty  of  completing  the  survey  of  the  upper  Missouri, 
and  of  crossing  the  mountain  chains  in  winter  with  a  dog  train,  to  ascertain  the  condition  of  the 
snows  ;  that  a  meteorological  post  was  established  at  Fort  Benton,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Doty  and 
three  men  ;  that  the  wagons  were  left  in  store  there,  and  much  other  public  property ;  that  Lieu 
tenant  Saxton  went  down  the  Missouri  with  enlisted  men  and  employes  not  needed  to  continue 
the  survey,  with  orders  to  repair  to  Washington  city  ;  that  the  Flatheads  were  visited  at  their 


FIELD   PARTIES   AND   OPERATIONS.  79 

camp?,  some  hundred  and  seventy  miles  south  of  Fort  Benton,  by  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and  the 
Blackfeet,  the  same  distance  north,  by  Mr.  Stanley;  and  that  the  exploring  parties,  Lieutenant 
Mullan,  by  the  Hell  Gate,  Lieutenant  Donelson,  with  the' engineer  parties,  by  the  Blackfoot  trail, 
all  rendezvoused  at  the  St.  Mary's  village  by  the  30th  September,  except  Mr.  Tinkham,  who 
reached  the  St.  Mary's  valley  on  the  6th  of  October.  Mr.  Lander,  who  had  gone  sixty-five  miles 
on  his  way  to  examine  the  Marias  Pass,  on  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Saxton,  made,  under  the 
direction  of  Lieutenant  Donelson,  a  reconnaissance  of  the  Marias,  Teton,  Sun  and  Dearborn 
rivers,  and  crossed  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Rocky  mountains  by  the  pass  of  Lewis  and  Clark 
on  their  return  route  some  eight  miles  northwest  of  Cadotte's  Pass,  crossed  by  the  main  party,  and 
came  upon  the  common  trail  thirteen  and  a  half  miles  lower  down  the  pass;  and  Mr.  Tinkham, 
before  reaching  the  narrow  defile  ending  in  Hell  Gate,  examined  a  route  from  the  pass  to  the 
Jocko  river  flowing  into  Clark's  fork,  and  then  came  into  the  St.  Mary's  valley  in  Lieutenant 
Saxton 's  trail. 

At  St.  Mary's  valley  I  found  Lieutenant  Arnold  in  charge  of  that  post  with  six  men  and  a 
considerable  depot  of  provisions.  Lieutenant  Saxton's  route  to  that  post  was  by  the  Dalles, 
Wallah- Wallah,  Peluse,  Coeur  d'Alene  prairie,  Clark's  fork,  and  Jocko  river.  He  reached  the 
village  on  the  28th  of  August,  and  started  for  Fort  Bentr  n  with  a  party  of  eighteen  men  on  the  2d 
of  September.  'Lieutenant  Macfeely,  in  command  of  twenty-six  enlisted  men  and  quartermaster 
employes,  left  that  village  on  the  4th  day  of  September,  by  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail,  for 
the  Dalles. 

Lieutenant  Mullan  was  placed  in  charge,  with  fifteen  men,  of  a  meteorological  post  at  the  St. 
Mary's  village,  with  orders  to  explore  a  route  to  Fort  Hall,  and  to  make  all  possible  examinations 
of  the  mountain  passes,  especially  as  to  the  depth  and  continuance  of  snows;  and  Lieutenant 
Donelson  was  sent  over  the  general  route  explored  by  Lieutenant  Saxton,  with  directions  to  send 
Mr.  Lander  down  the  St.  Mary's  river,  and  meet  him  at  Horse  Plain.  Mr.  Tinkham  was  sent 
back  over  the  Rocky  mountains  by  the  Marias  Pass,  with  orders  to  return,  by  some  southern 
pass,  to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  thence  by  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail  to  Wallah- Wallah,  and 
thence  over  the  military  road  to  Steilacoom  and  Olympia.  Dr.  Suckley  was  directed  to  go  down 
the  St.  Mary's  river,  Clark's  fork,  and  the  Columbia,  and  to  make  the  best  exploration  his  means 
permitted. 

Leaving  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  opposite  Hell  Gate,  on  the  7th  of  October,  I  pushed  with  a  small 
party  over  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains,  and  resting  my  animals  one  day  at  the  Coeur  d'Alene 
mission,  I  pushed  on  to  Colville,  and  reached  that  place  on  the  18th  of  October,  the  day  of  the 
crossing  of  the  Columbia  river  at  that  point  by  Captain  McClellan. 

To  guard  against  the  possibility  of  Captain  McClellan's  passing  the  eastern  division,  on  his 
way  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  Lieutenant  Donelson  was  directed  to  despatch  Lieutenant  Arnold 
on  his  second  crossing  of  Clark's  fork,  by  the  northern  trail  to  Colville,  and  orders  were  left  at 
Colville,  directing  him  to  go  up  the  Columbia  river,  make  a  general  reconnaissance  of  the  river 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  49th  parallel,  and  then  repair  to  Wallah-Wallah  by  the  route  of  the  left  bank 
of  the  Columbia,  by  the  Grand  Coulee,  and  by  the  mouth  of  Snake  river. 

Word  was  sent  to  Lieutenant  Donelson  to  meet  the  western  division  at  a  camp  south  of  the  Spo 
kane  river,  and  arrangements  were  made  to  complete  the  exploration  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass  by  a 
small  party  with  one  of  the  assistant  engineers,  Mr.  Lander,  and  carry  the  line  down  to  the  harbor 
on  the  sound ;  to  explore  the  route  crossing  the  Columbia  above  the  mouth  of  Snake  river,  and  lead 
ing  by  its  north  bank  to  Vancouver,  both  parties  under  the  charge  of  Captain  McClellan,  who  was 
also  to  determine,  in  his  way,  one  or  two  doubtful  points  as  to  the  geography  of  the  country;  to 
explore  a  third  route,  by  Lieutenant  Donelson,  from  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mission  to  Wallah-Wallah, 
and  thence  down  the  south  bank  of  the  Columbia  river  to  the  Dalles,  and  to  send  the  animals  and 
men  not  needed  for  those  duties  along  the  usual  trail  to  Wallah- Wallah,  under  Lieutenant  Hodges. 
On  a  careful  inspection  of  the  animals,  made  by  Captain  McClellan  and  Lieutenant  Donelson, 


80  FIELD    PARTIES    AND    OPERATIONS. 

they  were  found  to  be  weary  and  thin,  and  inadequate  to  the  duty.  Accordingly,  the  whole  force 
was  sent  down  the  Columbia,  Captain  McClellan  and  Lieutenant  Donelson  with  instructions  to 
make  such  examinations  as  their  opportunities  permitted.  The  remaining  operations  consisted  in 
their  continuing  the  survey.  The  animals  were  placed  in  good  grazing  at  the  first  three  places; 
men  not  needed  for  office  duty  were  discharged  at  Columbia  barracks,  and  the  office  was  estab 
lished  at  Olympia.  Mr.  Lander  made  an  excellent  railroad  reconnaissance  of  the  route  to  Puget 
sound  by  the  Columbia  and  Cowlitz  rivers. 

Captain  McClellan's  party,  in  addition  to  the  scientific  corps  already  mentioned,  consisted  of 
five  assistants  in  observations,  carrying  instruments,  &c.;  two  sergeants,  two  corporals,  and  twenty- 
four  privates  fourth  infantry ;  two  chief  packers,  three  hunters  and  herdsmen,  and  twenty  pickers — 
sixty-four  persons  in  all,  besides  himself. 

He  left  Vancouver  on  the  24th  of  July,  and  striking  the  Cathlapoot'l  on  the  1st  of  August,  fol 
lowed  up  its  valley  four  days,  crossed  the  divide  on  the  5th  to  the  south  of  Mount  St.  Helens, 
turned  round  to  the  south  and  east  of  Mount  Adams,  and  reached  the  Wenass  (a  branch  of  the 
Nahchess)  on  the  20th  August.  At  this  point  one  party  was  sent,  under  Lieutenant  Hodges,  to 
Steilacoom,  across  by  the  Nahchess  Pass;  another,  under  Lieutenant  Mo  wry,  to  the  Dalles;  a 
third,  under  Mr.  Gibbs,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima;  a  fourth,  under  Lieutenant  Duncan,  to  the 
main  Yakima ;  whilst  Captain  McClellan  went  in  person  to  examine  the  Nabchess»Pass. 

The  camp  was  moved  to  Ketetas,  on  the  main  Yakima,  September  3d.  From  this  point  the 
main  Yakima  Pass  was  examined,  and  on  the  19th  all  the  detached  parties,  having  previously 
rejoined  the  main  party,  moved  northward,  and  reached  the  Columbia  river  a  little  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Pischous  on  the  21st,  and  Fort  Okinakane  on  the  27th  of  September. 

Subsequent  to  this  date,  the  party  examined  the  country  to  the  Barrier  river,  (its  several  heads 
by  small  parties,)  its  valley  to  the  Columbia  river,  that  river  to  Fort  Okinakane,  and  explored  the 
whole  country  east  of  the  Cascades  to  the  Columbia  river,  and  north  to  above  our  parallel,  and 
crossed  the  river  at  Colville  on  the  ISth  of  October. 

On  leaving  the  Yakima,  September  19th,  Captain  McClellan's  party  was  reduced  to  thirty-six 
men  in  all,  including  himself,  by  the  discharge  of  a  portion  of  the  scientific  corps  and  of  the  pack 
ers,  and  by  sending  in  all  the  troops  but  one  sergeant  and  seven  privates. 

Subsequent  to  reaching  Olympia  Captain  McClellan  had  made  an  examination  of  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  sound  to  north  of  Snohomish  river,  and  of  that  river  and  the  Snoqualme,  and  of  the 
adjacent  country,  for  some  miles  above  the  Snoqualme  Falls. 

The  remaining  operations  may  be  summed  up  briefly  as  follows.  Lieut.  Arnold,  Dr.  Suckley, 
and  Mr.  Tinkham  have  completed  the  explorations  intrusted  to  them,  with  the  single  modification 
that  Mr.  Tinkham  has  crossed  the  Cascades  over  the  Snoqualme  instead  of  the  Nahchess  Pass ; 
Lieutenant  Mullan  has  explored  the  passes  in  the  Rocky  mountains  from  Hell  Gate  to  Fort  Hall; 
and  Lieutenant  Grover  has  crossed  the  several  mountain  ranges  in  winter,  leaving  Fort  Benton 
on  the  2d  of  January,  and  reaching  Wallah- Wallah  the  2d  day  of  March. 

I  have  examined,  personally,  the  harbors  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  sound  to  Bellingham  bay, 
the  channels  thence  to  the  Straits  de  Fuca,  and  the  harbors  of  Penn's  cove,  on  Whitby's  island, 
and  Port  Townsend,  at  the  point  where  the  straits  join  the  waters  of  the  sound. 


CHAPTER  III. 

General  Description  of  Region  Examined,  and  Results  Accomplished. — General  Salubrity 

of  the  Region. 

The  country  thus  occupied,  or  to  be  occupied,  may  be  described  as  follows:  It  lies  between 
the  great  lakes  and  Puget  sound,  the  forty-ninth  parallel  and  the  emigrant  route  of  the  South 
Pass.  In  it  are  four  great  rivers — the  Mississippi  and  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  flowing  into  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  and  Hudson's  bay;  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers,  flowing  eastward  and 
westward  from  the  Rocky  mountains  in  opposite  directions. 

There  are  three  mountain  ranges,  running  in  a  general  direction  north  and  south — the  Rocky, 
Cceur  d'Alene,  and  Cascade  mountains.  The  four  rivers  are  more  than  powerful  auxiliaries  as 
lines  of  communication  in  building  the  road  and  advancing  settlements,  affording  in  their  course 
large  tracts  of  arable  and  pasture  land  and  inexhaustible  supplies  of  lumber  and  stone.  They 
have  essentially  modified  the  climate.  The  Mississippi  and  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  with  their 
several  tributaries  interlocking  each  other,  nearly  all  heavily  timbered,  make  the  eastern  portion 
of  the  field  one  of  inexhaustible  fertility,  and  have  great  natural  advantages  for  bringing  supplies 
and  productions  of  all  kinds  to  market.  The  Missouri  river  has  turned  the  formidable  chain  of  the 
Black  Hills  and  Wind  River  mountains,  and  with  its  southern  tributaries,  especially  the  Yellow 
stone,  presents  a  rich  and  inviting  country  at  the  base  and  into  the  valleys  of  the  mountains. 
The  Columbia  has  found  its  way  through  the  Cceur  d'Alene  and  Cascade  chains,  affording  ex 
cellent  passes,  arid  the  tributaries  of  the  two  rivers  interlocking  in  the  Rocky  mountains  have 
broken  it  into  spurs  and  valleys,  affording  several  practicable  passes,  and  with  a  tunnel  admitting 
the  passage  of  a  road  at  an  elevation  of  about  five  thousand  feet. 

In  the  region  of  the  South  Pass  the  Rocky  mountain  range  extends  from  near  Fort  Laramie  to 
the  valley  of  the  Salt  lake,  through  nearly  seven  degrees  of  longitude,  or  a  distance  of  about  three 
hundred  miles,  at  an  elevation  of,  from  4,519  feet  (Fort  Laramie)  to  7,400  feet  (South  Pass,)  and 
from  4,222  feet  (Great  Salt  lake)  to  8,400  feet  (Wahsatch  mountains,)  above  the  sea;  and  the 
whole  system  of  ranges  to  the  Pacific  extends  through  seventeen  degrees.  Northward,  none  of 
the  subsidiary  spurs  that  branch  to  the  eastward  cross  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone,  and  the 
main  chain  deflects  considerably  to  the  westward,  till,  in  the  region  extending  from  the  sources  of 
the  Missouri  to  the  headwaters  of  Sun  river,  the  system  of  ranges  extends  only  through  nine  de 
grees  of  longitude,  of  which  three  to  four  degrees  are  occupied  by  the  prairie  region  of  the  Great 
Plain  of  the  Columbia,  and  in  the  several  passes  the  greatest  elevation  is  about  6,300  feet,  and 
the  length  of  the  route  where  the  elevation  exceeds  that  of  Fort  Laramie  and  the  Great  Salt  lake, 
is  fifty-six  miles.  Crossing  the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri,  the  whole  country  eastward  to  the 
Mississippi  is  a  prairie  region.  Puget  sound  is  in  the  same  longitude  as  San  Francisco,  and  a 
railroad  through  the  South  Pass  to  San  Francisco  or  Puget  sound  must,  without  making  any 
allowance  for  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  pass  over  a  mountain  region  eight  degrees  in  lon 
gitude  greater  than  by  the  route  north  of  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone. 

Thus  the  distinctive  character  of  the  route  is  the  great  extension  of  the  prairie  region  west 
ward  ;  the  easy  character  and  the  low  elevation  of  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  mountains;  the  prac 
ticable  character  of  the  passes  in  the  Cceur  d'Alene  and  Cascade  mountains,  and  its  connexion 
with  the  great  natural  water  communication  across  the  continent  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia 
rivers. 


82  EXTENT  OF  EXPLORATIONS. — SALUBRITY  OF  THE  REGION. 

The  results  thus  far  accomplished  may  be  summed  up  as  follows:  The  Missouri  and  Columbia 
rivers,  with  the  excepiion  of  sixty  miles  of  th;1  1-t'ter,  have  been  surveyed  ;  three  passes,  in  -hiding 
that  of  the  Columbia  riv<  r,  have  been  explored  in  the  Cascade  and  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains; 
nine  passes  in  the  Rock}'  mountains  ;  two  lines  have  been  run  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the 
base  of  the  mountains;  ranges  of  country  south  of  Fort  Union,  and  beiween  the  Yellowstone 
and  Missouri  rivers,  at  the  eastern  and  western  bases  of  the  Rocky  mountains  from  above  our 
parallel  to  the  forks  of  the  Missouri,  and  in  the  Territory  of  Washington,  between  the  Cascade 
and  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains,  have  been  explored.  Not  only  has  information  been  collected  in 
reference  to  the  routes  for  a  railroad,  but  attentive  consideration  has  been  given  to  wagon 
roads,  to  the  navigability  of  the  rivers  and  the  part  they  must  play  in  establishing  communica 
tions,  the  adaptation  of  the  country  to  settlement,  the  Indian  tribes,  and  the  military  posts  that, 
ought  to  be  established.  Additional  explorations  and  surveys  ought,  however,  to  be  made,  to 
determine  the  most  practicable  route  for  the  road,  and,  incidentally,  still  further  to  develop  the 
geography  and  resources  of  this  region  of  country.  Before  passing,  however,  to  the  consideration 
of  these  questions,  I  will  advert  to  the  remarkable  salubrity  of  the  whole  region  included  in  the 
exploration. 

The  reports  of  medical  officers,  Dr.  Suckley  and  Dr.  Cooper,  will  show  the  healthiness  of 
this  route.  From  the  Mississippi  to  Fort  Union,  in  a  force  of  eighty-six  men,  there  were  slight 
ailments  growing  out  of  too  free  use  of  buffalo  meat,  and  the  use  of  saline  water,  good  camping 
grounds  not  having  been  selected;  but  they  yielded  readily  to  treatment,  only  one  person  having 
been  confined  to  his  bed,  and  that  was  in  consequence  of  his  own  gross  imprudence.  With 
proper  cl  oice  of  camping  grounds,  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  nearly  always  procuring  good 
water,  and  plenty  of  it. 

This  portion  of  the  route  was  made  from  June  10th  to  August  1st.  From  Fort  Union  to 
Fort  Benton,  the  party  consisted  of  over  one  hundred  persons,  and  the  time  occupied  in  the 
march  was  from  August  8th  to  September  Gth — distance  375  miles.  Three  men  became  sick, 
but  in  each  case  it  was  the  breaking  out  of  chronic  complaints  of  long  standing.  From  Fort 
Benton  to  the  Great  Plains  of  the  Columbia,  the  route  passed  through  a  well-wooded  and  bounti 
fully  watered  country,  and  there  were  no  cases  of  sickness  in  the  command. 

There  was,  in  the  remaining  portion  of  the  journey,  but  one  slight  ailment ;  though  on 
approaching  the  lower  Columbia,  and  in  the  journey  from  Columbia  barracks  to  Olympia,  the 
command  was  exposed  to  frequent  rains.  I  do  not  include  the  case  of  two  persons  whose  indis 
position  was  caused  by  gross  negligence,  and  which  is  referred  to  in  Dr.  Buckley's  report.  The 
Indians  on  the  route  were  free  from  epidemic  diseases. 

The  health  of  the  party  engaged  in  the  exploration  of  the  Cascades  was  also  exceedingly  good. 
No  epidemic  diseases  prevailed.  Disorders  of  the  digestive  organs  were  common,  but  yielded 
readily  to  treatment.  The  great  dryness  of  the  climate,  and  the  perfect  drainage  of  the  country, 
prevent  the  prevalence  of  malarious  diseases.  Whole  tribes  of  the  Indians  have,  however, 
been  almost  exterminated  by  the  small-pox.  The  Indians  never  suffer  from  diseases  of  the 
digestive  organs,  though  dry  fish  and  berries  are  their  invariable  food.  They  have  sore  eyes,  in 
consequence  of  the  smoke  of  their  badly  ventilated  huts,  and  consumption  is  common  among  them, 
in  consequence  of  poor  clothing  and  shelter,  combined  with  the  use  of  a  scanty  and  innutritions 
quality  of  food.  On  reviewing  the  whole  route,  the  unequalled  and  unparalleled  good  health  of 
the  several  parties  operating  over  an  extent  of  country  eighteen  hundred  miles  in  length  appears 
remarkable,  especially  when  we  consider  the  hardships  and  exposure  necessarily  incident  to  such 
operations.  Not  a  case  of  fever  or  ague  occurred.  Such  a  state  of  health  can  only  be  accounted 
ibr  by  the  great  salubrity  of  the  country  explored,  and  its  freedom  from  malarious  or  other 
epidemic  diseases. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Railroad  Practicability  of    the  Section  to   the   base  of  the  Mountains.  — Geographical 
Importance  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux. — Navigability  of  the  Missouri  River. 

To  present  the  geography,  adaptation  of  the  country  to  settlement,  facilities  of  railroad  con 
struction,  as  materials,  communication  and  physical  circumstances,  the  route  will  be  subdivided 
as  follows : 

1.  The  region  from  the  Great  lakes  to  the  Grand  Plateau  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux ; 

2.  From  the  Grand  Plateau  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux  to  the  valley  of  the  Mouse  river  ; 

3.  From  Mouse  river  to  the  plateau  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri  rivers  ; 

4.  The  region  of  the  Rocky  and  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains  ;  and, 

5.  The  Cascades. 

The  Grand  Plateau  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux  and  the  Mouse  River  valley  are  the  two  keys  of  rail 
road  communication  from  the  Mississippi  river  westward  through  the  Territory  of  Minnesota. 
The  Bois  des  Sioux  is  a  river  believed  to  be  navigable  for  steamers  of  light  draught,  flowing  north 
ward  from  Lake  Traverse  into  the  Red  river  of  the  North  ;  and  the  plateau  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux 
may  be  considered  as  extending  from  south  of  Lake  Traverse  to  the  south  bend  of  the  Red  river, 
and  from  the  Rabbit  river,  some  thirty  miles  east  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux  river,  to  the  Dead  Colt 
Hillock.  This  plateau  separates  the  rivers  flowing  into  Hudson's  bay  from  those  flowing  into 
the  Mississippi  river.  The  Mouse  River  valley,  in  the  western  portion  of  Minnesota,  is  from  ten  to 
twenty  miles  broad;  is  separated  from  the  Missouri  river  by  the  Coteau  du  Missouri,  some  six 
hundred  feet  high,  and  it  is  about  the  same  level  as  the  parallel  valley  of  the  Missouri. 

1.  Tho  plateau  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux  will  be  a  great  centre  of  population  and  communication. 
Ii  connects  with  the  valley  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  navigable  four  hundred  miles  for  steamers 
of  three  or  four  feet  draught,  with  forty-five  thousand  square  miles  of  arable  and  timber  land  ; 
and  with  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota,  also  navigable  at  all  seasons,  when  not  obstructed  by  ice, 
one  hundred  miles  for  steamers,  and  occasionally  a  hundred  miles  farther.  The  head  of  naviga 
tion  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North  is  within  one  hundred  and  ten  miles  of  the  navigable  portion 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  is  distant  only  forty  miles  from  the  Minnesota.  Eastward  from  these 
valleys  to  the  great  lakes,  the  country  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi  is  rich,  and  much  of  it 
heavily  timbered.  The  great  number  of  streams  affords  extraordinary  facilities  for  bringing  sup 
plies  to  market.  Roads  can  be  run  to  the  several  crossings  of  the  Mississippi  from  Dubuque, 
which  affords  the  most  direct  communication  with  Chicago,  to  Little  Falls,  which  affords  the 
most  direct  communication  with  Lake  Superior.  Little  Falls,  indeed,  is  the  best  crossing  of 
the  whole.  It  is  only  three  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  long,  and  is  in  two  channels  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  and  two  hundred  feet.  The  line  thence  to  the  Bois  des  Sioux  is  better 
than  the  other  lines  in  crossing  the  heads  of  streams  and  furnishing  greater  supplies  of  timber. 
And  as  the  country  east  of  the  Mississippi  from  the  Little  Falls  furnishes  extraordinary  facilities 
for  railroad  construction,  and  especially  an  excellent  connexion  with  St.  Paul,  the  head  of  naviga 
tion  of  the  Mississippi  river,  the  Little  Falls  will  be  adopted  as  the  point  of  crossing  the  Missis 
sippi.  The  route  thence  to  Chicago  can  be  either  direct  by  St.  Paul,  or  by  Stillwater,  on  the  St. 
Croix,  with  a  branch  to  St.  Paul. 

In  the  location  of  the  road,  the  routes  to  the  other  good  crossings  should  be  examined.  The 
most,  important  crossings  are  near  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  at  the  rapids  near  the  mouth  of  Sank 


84  NAVIGABILITY   OF   THE    MISSOURI. 

river,  and  at  the  several  points  for  two  miles  above  these  rapids,  at  the  ferry  near  the  mouth  of 
Swan  river,  and  at  the  Little  Falls. 

No  difficulty  will  be  experienced  in  locating  the  road  from  the  plateau  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux 
to  the  valley  of  Mouse  river.  It  should  keep  south  of  the  Shayenne,  the  northern  limit  of  the 
plateau,  to  avoid  the  severe  crossing  of  that  river,  and,  pursuing  a  course  north  of  the  Dead  Colt 
Hillock,  keep  along  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Shayenne  river  arid  the  Riviere  a  Jacques. 
On  this  portion  of  the  road  there  is  a  scarcity  of  timber,  and  for  a  portion  of  the  way  water 
must  be  brought  in  aqueducts  from  the  lakes  on  the  Coteau  du  Missouri,  which  may  be  used  both 
in  runnin^  the  road  and  in  the  growth  of  cotton-wood  on  the  line  of  the  road  for  supplies  of  fuel. 
Timber  and  fuel  can  be  brought  to  the  plateau  in  great  quantities  from  the  Red  river  of  the  North, 
and  considerable  supplies  can  be  procured  from  the  Shayenne.  Lignite  coal  has  been  found  on 
the  Mouse  river,  and  further  search  may  lead  to  the  discovery  of  beds  of  bituminous  coal. 

3.  From  the  valley  of  Mouse  river  the  route  to  the  plateau  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri 
rivers  must  pass  over  the  Coteau  du  Missouri  at  grades  of  not  exceeding  forty  feet  to  the 
mile,  and,  descending  into  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  river  either  by  the  Grand  Coulee  or  the  Big 
Muddy  river,  at  grades  not  exceeding  forty  feet  to  the  mile,  can  take  two  directions,  either  along 
the  valley  of  the  Milk  river,  to  a  point  north  of  the  Bear's  Paw  mountains,  or,  crossing  the  Milk 
river  near  its  mouth,  can  pursue  an  intermediate  course  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri  rivers, 
passing  through  the  Bear's  Paw  mountains. 

The  second  route,  involving  the  intricacies  of  the  Bear's  Paw  mountains,  and  not  having  been 
examined  by  an  estimating  engineer,  will  not  be  considered  in  this  report.  It  will  save  perhaps 
twenty  miles  in  distance,  and  should  be  examined  previous  to  the  location  of  the  road. 

The  valley  of  the  Milk  river  has  extraordinary  railroad  facilities — in  its  water,  its  groves  of 
cotton-wood,  its  materials  for  ballasting;  and  is  in  connexion  at  several  points  with  the  Missouri 
river,  as  a  line  of  supplies  and  communication  to  Fort  Union,  which  may  be  reached  by  a  spur 
road  at  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Muddy,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Milk  river.  This  will  render 
available  for  the  road  the  resources  in  timber  and  stone  of  tl  e  upper  Missouri  and  Yellowstone. 

From  the  great  lakes,  therefore,  to  the  plateau  at  the  oase  of  the  mountains,  the  road  has 
several  solutions,  involving  no  higher  grade  than  forty  feet,  and  that  for  a  few  miles  passing 
for  the  most  part  through  a  rich  country,  part  of  it  heavily  timbered  and  well  watered ;  a  deficiency 
of  wood  and  water  in  other  parts  easily  supplied  by  aqueducts,  by  the  growth  of  cotton-wood, 
by  the  connexion  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Yellowstone,  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  the  Shay 
enne  and  the  Mouse  rivers.  In  this  connexion  I  will  refer  to  the  general  character  of  the  Missouri 
as  a  line  of  communication  in  the  construction  of  the  road. 

The  Missouri  is  navigable  as  high  as  the  mouth  of  the  High  Wood  creek,  fifteen  miles  below 
the  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri,  by  steamers  drawing  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  of  water  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  when  not  obstructed  by  ice,  and  lor  steamers  drawing  two  and  a  half  to 
three  feet  for  one-half  the  season.  Its  principal  tributary,  the  Yellowstone,  is  also  navigable  for 
steamers  for  two  hundred  miles,  and  still  farther  for  keel-boats  and  canoes.  None  of  the  rivers 
of  the  upper  Missouri  are  navigable,  except,  perhaps,  the  Marias,  which  is  said  to  be  navigable 
for  steamers  of  light  draught  some  fifty  miles.  There  are  two  rises  in  the  river,  occurring  in  May 
and  June,  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  snows  of  the  prairies  and  the  mountains,  which  facilitate 
very  much  the  navigation  of  the  river.  The  distance  from  its  mouth  to  Fort  Union  is  1,900  miles, 
and  to  the  mouth  of  the  High  Wood  creek  about  2,430  miles.  From  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  the 
Great  Bend  the  country  admits  of  almost  continuous  settlement;  thence  to  Fort  Union,  only  about 
one- fourth  could  well  be  cultivated.  Above  Fort  Union  there  are  many  extensive  bottoms 
adapted  to  agriculture,  and  much  arable  land  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Benton,  especially  on  the 
High  Wood  creek.  The  immense  quantity  of  game  along  the  whole  course  of  the  river  to  below 
the  Great  Bend,  is  an  evidence  of  its  goodness  as  a  grazing  country.  The  obstructions  consist 
in  snags,  sawyers,  and  sand-bars,  rapids,  chains  of  rock,  through  which  there  is  but  one  channel, 


NAVIGABILITY  OP   THE   MISSOURI.  85 

and  strong  northwest  winds.  In  the  upper  Missouri,  rocks  are  occasionally  found  in  the  channel, 
brought  down  by  the  ice.  To  remove  snags  and  sawyers,  snag-boats  should  ascend  the  river 
every  two  or  three  years.  In  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Union,  and  at  other  points  of  the  river,  both 
above  and  be]ow  Fort  Union,  the  channel  is  very  narrow  and  tortuous. 

The  worst  rapids  are  encountered  above  the  mouth  of  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  and  are  par 
ticularly  described  in  Lieut.  Grover's  report.  Only  at  the  Dauphin  rapid  is  the  current  as  great 
as  four  and  a  half  miles  per  hour ;  besides  which,  the  channel  is  crooked  and  obstructed  by  boulders. 
A  rapid  having  but  fifteen  inches  of  water  occurs  five  miles  below  Fort  Benton;  but  from  the 
character  of  the  bottom,  it  is  the  opinion  of  Lieut.  Grover  that  steamers  of  eighteen  inches  would 
make  their  way  over  it ;  and  of  Lieut.  Saxton,  that  even  a  steamer  drawing  twenty  inches 
would  meet  with  no  difficulty.  No  other  rapids  have  twenty  inches  or  more  of  water. 

The  stones  which  occur  in  the  channel  could  easily  be  removed  by  providing  a  boat  with 
suitable  grappling-hooks,  with  which  she  can  hitch  on  to  a  rock  in  her  way  and  drop  down  with  it 
into  deeper  water,  with  very  little  detention. 

Above  the  mouth  of  the  Platte,  the  river  is  closed  by  ice  from  the  middle  of  .November  to  the 
1st  of  April.  The  temperature,  however,  is  milder  in  ascending  the  Missouri,  and  winters  fre 
quently  occur  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Benton  when  the  river  is  not  closed  by  ice  more  than  three 
months. 

The  average  time  for  steamers  ascending  the  river  to  Fort  Union  has  been  forty-two  days,  and 
of  descending  eighteen  days.  The  steamers,  however,  have  not  been  of  a  good  class,  and  the 
round  trip  has  been  made  in  less  than  fifty  days,  starting  when  the  river  was  low,  and  making  the 
trip  in  July  and  August.  Above  Independence,  moreover,  steamers  never  run  at  night,  from  the 
want  of  knowledge  which  prevails  of  the  channel ;  and  frequent  stoppages  have  to  be  made  for 
fuel,  which  in  all  cases  has  to  be  cut  by  the  crew  after  leaving  the  settlements. 

With  first-class  boats  having  powerful  engines,  and  with  suitable  depots  for  fuel,  three  round 
trips  per  year  could  be  made  to  Fort  Union,  and  perhaps  four.  With  the  present  imperfect 
arrangements,  there  is  no  difficulty  in  making  two  trips.  It  will  become  a  most  important  line 
of  communication  in  transporting  supplies  of  all  kinds,  workmen,  tools,  provisions,  machinery, 
and  railroad  iron,  to  the  section  which,  resting,.on  the  Missouri  from  Fort  Union  to  Milk  river,  is 
pushed  eastward  to  the  Mississippi,  and  westward  to  the  mountains. 

The  upper  Missouri  can  be  made  use  of  to  transport  workmen,  provisions,  and  supplies  of  all 
kinds.  From  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Benton,  the  time  occupied  ought  not  to  exceed  five  or  six  days. 
With  the  use  of  the  navigable  portions  of  tha  Marias  river,  it  will  become  a  vital  element  in  the 
construction  of  the  Rocky  mountain  section. 

The  Missouri  river  will  also  prove  valuable  as  an  emigrant  route  ;  but  when  the  railroad  is 
completed,  its  importance  will  chiefly  be  confined  to  the  towns  and  cities  on  its  banks.  This 
river  will,  with  the  Yellowstone,  furnish  timber  for  the  section  at  Fort  Union. 

For  a  more  detailed  description  of  the  Missouri  river,  I  refer  you  to  the  reports  of  Lieuten 
ants  Donelson,  Saxton,  and  Grover,  which  will  be  found  in  the  appendix.  (See  E  No.  14,  E  No. 
15,  and  E  No.  16.)  Lieutenants  Donelson  and  Grover  made  the  survey  of  the  river,  and  Lieu 
tenant  Saxton  went  down  in  a  keel-boat  drawing  eighteen  inches  of  \vater  at  the  lowest  stage, 
and  carefully  considered,  from  the  experience  thus  gained,  the  practical  difficulties  in  the 
way  of  steamboat  navigation.  He  has  had  much  experience  in  the  use  of  steamers  in  shallow 
rivers. 

In  this  connexion  it  will  not  be  out  of  place  to  refer  to  the  opinions  of  the  members  of  the  Fur 
Companies  who  have  been,  and  are  now,  in  charge  of  posts  on  the  Missouri — as  Robert  Campbell, 
Alexander  Culbertson,  Mr.  Clarke,  and  others,  who,  simply  frcm  their  own  practical  experience 
in  the  use  of  keel-boats,  have  long  been  satisfied  as  to  the  navigability  of  this  river  for  steamers, 
and  would  not  hesitate  to  employ  them  did  their  business  warrant  it;  and  to  the  experience  of  the 
Nicaragua  transit  route,  where  iron-hull  stern-wheel  boats  are  in  use,  drawing  from  thirteen  to 


86  EXTRACTS   FROM    LANDER'S    REPORT. 

seventeen  inches  of  water,  and  carrying  four  hundred  passengers  with  their  baggage;  and  of  the 
Alleghany  river,  in  Pennsylvania,  and  the  Little  Tombigbee,  in  Alabama. 

Moreover,  I  have  submitted  the  practical  difficulties  of  the  navigation  of  the  Missouri,  with  its 
currents,  rapids,  sand-bars,  and  sudden  deflections,  to  the  consideration  of  experienced  men,  who 
have  been  the  pioneers  on  these  rivers,  and  are  skilled  both  in  the  construction  and  the  running 
of  boats,  and  they  are  satisfied  that  steamers  of  very  considerable  tonnage,  and  carrying  many 
passengers,  can  be  used  on  this  river  the  entire  distance  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls. 

The  following  extracts  from  the  reports  of  Messrs.  Lander  and  Tinkham,  giving  the  results 
of  personal  examinations  between  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Rocky  mountains, 
are  here  given  as  highly  descriptive  of  the  characteristic  features  of  this  portion  of  the  route. 

1.  Extracts  from  Mr.  Lander's  report  of  February  15th,  1854. — The  road  from  Bois  des  Sioux 
to  the  head  of  the  Coteau  du  Missouri  should  pass  north  of  the  Ooteau  des  Prairies,  near  Dead 
Colt  Hillock,  along  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Jacques  and  Shayenne  rivers  to  the  headwaters 
of  the  Jacques,  and  avoid  the  bad  crossings  of  the  Shayenne  river,  which  occur  on  the  line 
of  the  odometer  survey.  There  is  a  scarcity  of  timber  upon  the  route  ;  but  lignite  coal  is  found 
in  quantity  in  the  valley  of  the  Mouse  river,  and,  by  the  use  of  proper  blast  in  furnaces,  may 
become  of  service.  Cotton- wood  occurs  in  the  valley  of  the  Shayenne,  although  it  is  not  abun 
dant.  The  soil  upon  the  line  is  fertile;  groves  of  timber  can  be  readily  grown  during  the  period 
required  for  grading  the  road.  Sufficient  stone  for  culvert  masonry  can  be  found  among  the 
boulders  upon  the  hill-sides  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Shayenne  river,  and  the  line  will  pass  suffi 
ciently  near  the  Shayenne  to  secure  the  advantages  to  be  derived  from  its  valley,  either  in  pastur 
age,  timber,  or  stone  for  culvert  masonry.  Twenty  miles  west  of  the  "  Maison  du  Chien"  occur 
ledges  of  sandstone,  from  which  excellent  materials  for  masonry  may  be  furnished  for  long  sections 
of  the  road.  At  the  headwaters  of  the  Shayenne,  and  at  the  Dead  Colt  Hillock  and  "Lightning's 
Nest,"  fine  material  for  ballasting  may  be  found — a  fact  of  much  importance  to  this  division  of  the 
road,  which,  passing  over  low  prairie  country  and  in  cutting  through  a  pebbly  limestone  gravel 
mixed  with  clay,  will  need  ballasting  throughout.  The  portion  extending  through  the  salt 
water  region  will  need  particular  attention,  regarding  a  supply  of  pure  \vater  for  the  use  of 
engines.  The  proper  mode  of  overcoming  this  difficulty  will  be,  by  extending  an  aqueduct  along 
the  line  of  the  road  from  the  lakes  upon  the  Grand  Coteau  du  Missouri. 

As  the  line  will  skirt  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Grand  Coteau,  the  location  of  this  work  will 
not  be  difficult.  Good  brick-clay  is  found  near  the  Maison  du  Chien,  and  the  upland  lakes  of 
that  vicinity  are  of  sufficient  height  above  the  grade  of  the  road  to  afford  the  requisite  facility. 
I  recommend  a  descent  from  the  head  of  the  Grand  Coteau  to  the  valley  of  Milk  river  by  the 
Grand  Coulee.  It  would  by  a  spur  road  easily  connect  with  Fort  Union.  From  the  Big  Muddy 
the  line  would  pass  to  the  valley  of  Milk  river,  through  which  it  continues  for  a  long  distance  to 
a  point  of  departure  north  of  Bear's  Paw  mountain,  and  thence  along  the  north  b-mk  of  the 
Marias  to  the  great  valley  of  the  Dry  Branch;  then  crossing  the  Marias,  makes  ascent  through  the 
valley  of  the  Dry  Branch  in  a  southwesterly  direction  towards  the  grand  approaches  of  Lewis 
and  Clark's  Pass  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  crossing  the  headwaters  of  Teton,  Sun,  and  Beaver 
rivers.  Grizzly  Bear  lake,  lying  between  the  headwaters  of  the  Sun  and  Beaver  rivers,  can  be 
formed  into  an  unfailing  reservoir  for  supplying  the  line,  by  the  erection  of  a  da.m  at  its  lower 
extremity,  and  by  turning  the  water  of  a  small  mountain  stream  into  the  Like. 

The  line  passes  near  Grizzly  Bear  lake,  and  for  several  miles  the  grade  is  a  gentle  descent 
towards  the  Marias  river. 

By  the  use  of  the  yellow  mountain  pine,  abundant  in  the  vicinity,  a  line  of  logs  could  be  laid 
along  the  route,  and  furnish  water  to  the  road  for  the  supply  of  the  engines  and  the  employes — 
the  temporary  structure  eventually  superseded  by  proper  iron  castings  or  brickwork.  Good 
brick-clay  is  found  in  quantity  near  Grizzly  Bear  lake. 

All  difficulties  of  construction  may  be  overcome  upon  this  important  division  at  reasonable 


EXTRACTS   FROM    TINKHAM'S   REPORT.  87 

cost.  The  great  valley  of  Milk  river  affords  remarkable  facilities  for  construction,  as  regards 
grading  and  the  immediate  use  of  the  rail.  Vicinity  to  the  Missouri  aids  transportation  of  tim 
ber  from  the  mountains  by  rafting. 

An  embankment  road-bed  must  be  resorted  to  in  the  valley  of  Milk  river,  to  guard  against  rise 
of  water  upon  the  bottom  land  over  which  the  line  will  pass. 

2.  Extracts  from  Mr.  Tinkkam's  report. — From  the  Mississippi  a  vast  prairie  stretches  westward 
to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  1,136  miles;  and  a  breadth  of  402  miles  of  wooded  and 
mountain  country  lies  between  the  prairies  and  the  great  Columbia  river  plains.  These  prai 
ries  reach  down  to  the  bottom  lands  of  the  Columbia,  whose  valley,  including  that  of  its  tributary, 
the  Cowlitz,  is  traced  to  the  shores  of  Puget  sound — a  third  portion  of  507  miles.  These 
are  the  measured  distances  of  the  railway  route  hereafter  defined,  and  are  changed  by  adopting 
for  portions  of  the  line  other  practicable  or  probably  practicable  routes. 

From  the  Mississippi  to  the  bottom  levels  of  the  Missouri  are  certain  prominent  and  unusual 
features,  the  knowledge  of  which  is  of  great  service  in  directing  the  location  of  the  line  of  rail 
way,  the  easiest  and  cheapest  line  between  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  great 
northern  bend  which  the  Missouri  makes  near  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone.  It  may  nevertheless 
be  observed,  with  reference  to  the  region  lying  between  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  that  so  far 
destitute  is  it  of  serious  obstacles,  that  the  great  selection  of  a  railway  route  uniting  the  two  rivers 
may  be  determined  by  the  commercial  relation  rather  than  by  the  physical  features  of  the  coun 
try  traversed. 

The  section  of  Minnesota  east  of  the  Mississippi,  passed  over  by  the  exploration,  presents  few 
difficulties  to  the  building  of  a  railroad.  Obstructed  by  no  mountain  ranges,  and  diversified  by 
lightly-wooded  lands,  the  fertile  belt  of  prairie  bordering  on  the  river  affords  a  good  location. 
Farther  interior,  on  the  east,  and  to  the  north  and  northwest,  are  the  wooded  and  lumber  sec 
tions. 

Bordering  on  the  Missouri,  and  running  parallel  with  it,  is  the  Plateau  du  Coteau  du  Missouri — 
a  high  rolling  plateau,  having  an  average  breadth  of  some  60  to  80  miles,  rising  from  400  to 
800  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  river.  This  plateau,  remarkable  for  its  uniformity  and  extent 
from  below  the  latitude  44°,  stretches  north  and  west  into  the  British  possessions,  and  probably 
here  retains  its  characteristic  features  as  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  the  Sascat- 
chawan  and  the  Missouri,  until  absorbed  in  the  bolder  elevations  of  the  eastern  slope  of  the 
Rocky  mountains. 

The  passage  of  the  plateau  by  a  railway  will  by  no  means  be  impracticable  with  a  careful 
selection  of  route ;  but  it  can  rarely  be  done  without  a  loss  of  grade  greater  than  400  feet. 

East  of  the  plateau  and  parallel  with  it,  at  distances  of  from  20  to  50  miles  from  its  eastern 
edge,  flows  Riviere  a  Jacques,  or  James  river,  finding  its  source  near  the  headwaters  of  the 
Shayenne,  and  having  with  that  river,  for  some  100  miles,  nearly  the  same  general  southeasterly 
course. 

The  general  surface  of  the  high  plains  through  which  these  two  streams  find  their  descent — the 
one  to  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  the  other  to  discharge  its  waters  into  the  Missouri — is  here 
400  to  600  feet  lower  than  the  plateau.  Of  this  summit-ground,  distributing  and  dividing  the 
waters  to  their  northern  or  southern  slopes,  the  extensive  flat  or  prairie  through  which  flows  the 
Bois  des  Sioux  river  is  the  eastern  limit.  The  connexion  between  this  prairie  and  the  Mississippi 
is  along  the  sources  of  the  tributaries  to  the  Minnesota  river.  Crossing  these  streams  in  their 
infancy,  and  before  the  crossing  of  the  several  valleys,  is  objectionable. 

Carrying  the  line  northwardly  to  the  great  bend  of  the  Missouri,  we  avoid  a  difficult  and  ob 
jectionable  river-crossing,  and,  what  is  of  more  importance,  head  what  is  represented  as  the 
extensive,  broken,  and  tumultuous  region  of  country  south  and  west  of  the  Missouri  and  ex 
tending  to  the  Platte,  and  known  as  the  Black  Hills. 

The  railroad  route  from  St.  Paul  keeps  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  crosses  at  Little 


88  EXTRACTS   FROM    TINKHAM'S   REPORT. 

Falls,  continues  along  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Mississippi,  Rrd  river,  and  the  Minnesota, 
until  entering  upon  the  prairie  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  pursues  its  same  general  direction  through 
this  prairie,  passes  thence  on  to  the  summit-grounds  bcLween  the  James  and  Shayenne  rivers, 
and  finally,  without  losing  its  elevation,  enters  and  passes  the  great  plateau  of  the  Missouri  by  a 
coulee  connecting  the  two  valleys  of  the  Mouse  and  Missouri  rivers,  and  for  a  time  piercing  the 
barrier  which  separates  them. 

Proceeding  up  the  Missouri  from  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Muddy  river  to  the  entering  of  Milk 
river,  the  railroad  line  for  nearly  ISO  miles  follows  the  favorable  valley  of  this  latter  stream ; 
then,  leaving  it,  passes  on  to  the  prairies,  and  so  continues  until  within  a  few  miles  of  the 
mo  .ntain  pass,  crossing  in  succession  Marias,  Teton,  and  Sun  rivers,  with  the  tributaries  of 
Dearborn  river. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

Details  of  Excavations  and  Embankments. — Supplies  of  Wood,  Water,  Stone,  and  otlier 

materials. 

To  go  over  the  (railroad)  line,  as  shown  on  the  map,  more  carefully,  and  in  sufficient  detail  to 
give  its  general  features. 

The  Mississippi  at  St.  Paul  flows  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  below  the  high  prairies 
in  the  rear  of  the  town.  The  connexion  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  higher  ground  is  made 
with  a  forty-foot  grade.  With  but  little  variation  of  surface  or  soil  the  line  follows  the  general 
direction  of  the  river,  passing  over  prairies  or  oak  uplands,  to  Sauk  rapids,  and  thence  to  Little 
Falls,  one  hundred  and  twelve  miles.  In  this  interval  the  soil  generally  consists  of  a  vegetable 
mould  of  fiorn  one  to  four  feet  depth,  resting  on  a  gravelly  or  sandy  substratum,  affording  the  best 
material  for  a  firm  and  dry  road  embankment.  On  the  right,  and  farther  interior,  is  the  heavily 
wooded  and  timber  country  of  Minnesota,  the  tamarac  swamps  occasionally  approaching  the 
line.  No  rock  cutting  was  observed,  though  rock  was  found  in  place  near  St.  Anthony's  Falls, 
and  in  the  vicinity  of  Sauk  rapids. 

The  grades  along  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi  are  light,  seldom  exceeding  ten  feet  per 
mile.  The  bridge  crossings  are,  Rice  creek,  sixty  feet;  Coon  creek,  sixty  feet;  Rum  river,  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet;  Elk  river,  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet. 

The  culvert  masonry  is  small,  and  the  earth-work  will  not  exceed  an  average  embankment 
of  six  feet.  For  structures,  both  of  wood  and  stone,  the  material  is  good  and  near  at  hand.  Of 
lumber,  the  yellow  and  white  pines,  larch  and  cedar,  are  abundantly  manufactured  on  the  St. 
Croix  and  the  different  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi,  and  with  these  woods  the  white,  black,  and 
bur  oaks,  ash  and  sugar  maple.  All  of  these  different  species  of  lumber  are  manufactured  near 
the  line  of  the  road.  Granite  was  found  in  place  near  Sauk  rapids.  An  inferior  limestone 
is  obtained  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  Anthony  and  St.  Paul,  but  it  is  probable  that  for  the  present, 
lime  must  be  obtained  from  a  point  lower  down  on  the  Mississippi. 

The  crossing  at  Little  Falls  requires  but  three  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  of  bridge,  in  two 
stretches,  the  river  being  divided  by  an  island.  The  river  is  crossed  at  right-angles.  The 
abutment  rests  on  rock.  Crossing  at  the  falls,  the  bridge  presents  no  obstruction  to  navi 
gation. 

The  crossing  at  Little  Falls  affords  a  good  connexion  with  a  line  from  Lake  Superior,  and 
enters,  on  the  west  shore,  a  better  wooded  country  than  will  be  obtained  by  going  farther  south, 
and  over  which  it  will  probably  be  practicable  to  build  a  firmer  and  drier  road-bed. 

The  crossings  at  St.  Anthony  Falls  and  the  Sauk  rapids  are  eight  hundred  feet  and  six  hun 
dred  feet  respectively,  both  feasible  and  giving  fair  facilities. 

In  the  next  hundred  and  twenty-eight  miles,  to  the  Bois  des  Sioux  prairie,  the  line  passes 
successively  through  a  wooded  and  prairie  country,  and  thenceforward  to  the  Rocky  mount 
ains  the  growth  of  wood  is  confined  to  the  bottoms  of  rivers  and  the  borders  of  lakes. 

The  rise  in  this  interval  is  about  three  hundred  feet.  The  ground  is  rolling,  sometimes  showing 
stony  and  gravelly  knolls,  and  is  frequently  interrupted  by  small  lakes. 

The  earth-work  for  this  hundred  and  twenty-eight  miles  will  not  exceed  an  average  embank 
ment  of  eight  feet  height,  and  is  occasionally  stony.     Granite  boulders,  at  occasional  intervals, 
12/ 


90  EXCAVATIONS    AND    EMBANKMENTS. 

nre  scattered  on  the  surface.  Side  ditching  is  often  necessary  in  flat  and  low  places,  but  for 
the  main  part  of  the  distance  the  excavation  is  light  and  gravelly.  There  is  no  rock  excavation. 

Grades  of  thirty  feet  per  mile  will  occasionally  be  required  in  the  limited  region  of  knolly, 
rolling  country,  but  will  generally  not  exceed  ten  feet. 

Crossing  the  tributaries  of  the  Minnesota  at  their  sources,  the  amount  of  bridge  work  will  be 
small;  an  estimate  of  two  hundred  feet  on  the  small  streams  of  the  Crow,  South  Branch,  and 
Chippewa  rivers,  covers  the  whole.  The  culverts  will  be  small  and  frequent  in  number. 

The  pine  and  wooded  region  through  which  the  line  passes  is  estimated  to  extend  westward 
from  the  Mississippi  eighty  miles.  The  numerous  beautiful  lakes  are  often  surrounded  with  a 
handsome  growth  of  wood,  mainly  elm  and  poplar.  The  supplies  of  lumber  will,  however,  be 
drawn  mostly  from  the  Mississippi  and  the  pine  region  to  the  west  of  it,  and  with  small  expense 
of  transportation. 

Stone  is  found  in  places  only  at  the  Mississippi.  The  granite  boulders  are  found  at  some  sixty 
miles  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  will  supply  the  culvert  masonry.  Stone  for  the  small  amount 
of  bridge  abutments  must  be  brought  from  the  Mississippi,  unless  further  explorations  discover 
the  formation  of  good  building  material. 

Thenceforward  to  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  the  total  rise  is  about  700  feet.  In  this  portion  is 
included  the  prairie  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  a  remarkable  flat  of  some  forty  miles  width,  almost  an 
absolute  plain,  and  from  whose  eastern  verge  the  eye  seeks  in  vain,  on  its  shadowy,  monotonous 
surface  of  coarse,  dark  grass,  any  relieving  undulation,  or  tree  or  shrub.  Through  this  remarkable 
prairie  the  Bois  des  Sioux  and  Wild  Rice  rivers  make  their  way  to  join  the  Red  river  of  the  North, 
in  narrow,  canal-like  channels,  with  miry  sides  and  bottoms.  The  elm  and  oak  are  found  on 
these  two  streams,  either  threading  their  banks  or  grouped  together  in  handsome  clusters.  The 
water-level  was,  in  the  latter  part  of  June,  when  crossed  by  our  train,  some  eighteen  feet  below 
the  edges  of  the  banks,  but  high  deposits  of  drift  stuff'  had  been  made  on  the  banks,  and  were 
found  even  at  several  miles  distance  from  the  river.  In  the  breaking  up  of  winter,  and  with  the 
spring  rains,  this  prairie  is  undoubtedly  very  \vet  and  marshy,  and,  to  a  great  extent,  covered 
with  standing  water,  though  at  small  depth. 

Between  this  prairie  and  the  Shayenne  the  land  becomes  undulating  and  dry ;  and,  in  the 
vicinity  of  that  river,  sand-hillocks,  and  in  some  instances  sand-bluffs,  show  themselves.  The 
iShayenne  flows  in  a  deep  valley,  150  to  200  feet  below  the  general  prairie  level,  and  with  a 
valley  one-quarter  to  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide.  The  bottom  is  fairly  wooded  with  elm,  oak, 
ash,  poplar,  &c.  At  the  first  crossing  made  of  this  river  by  the  train,  its  width  was  sixty  feet,  its 
depth  fourteen  feet,  with  freshet  marks  eighteen  feet  above  the  water-level.  At  the  second 
crossing  its  width  was  fifty  feet,  its  depth  three  and  a  half  feet,  the  immediate  banks  miry  in 
both  cases.  These  crossings  would  be  expensive  and  cause  much  loss  of  grade,  and  are  avoided 
in  the  direction  given  to  the  route.  Granite  boulders  of  large  size  are  frequent  on  the  high 
grounds  bordering  on  the  river,  and  atone  place  east  of  the  second  crossing  it  was  supposed  that 
granite  was  found  in  place. 

From  the  bend  of  the  Shayenne  to  Mouse  river  the  country  is  nearly  uniform,  gradually  rising, 
is  in  part  undulating,  but  has  many  small  lakes,  and  is  often  marshy.  Riviere  a  Jacques  is 
crossed  with  a  width  of  some  120  feet.  This  river  has  probably  very  little  wood  on  it  within 
reach  of  the  route. 

There  is  a  general  destitution  of  wood  throughout  this  interval,  and  it  is  only  rarely  that  one 
finds  a  growth  of  wood  on  the  numerous  small  lakes,  and  the  small  tributaries  of  the  James  river. 
The  vegetable  mould,  not  over-deep  at  Shayenne  river,  gradually  decreases,  and  the  soil  is  gen 
erally  thin  at  the  source  of  the  Shayenne  and  James  rivers.  Thence  the  soil  improves  until  we 
reach  the  Mouse  river,  where  there  is  much  good  arable  land. 

The  Shayenne  river,  with  a  curve  from  the  north,  appears  to  retain  its  character,  as  already 
observed,  with  a  deep  valley,  high,  steep  banks,  wooded  bottom,  and  much  the  same  formation 


EXCAVATIONS   AND    EMBANKMENTS.  91 

of  clay  and  sand,  intermixed  with  gravel  and  pebbles,  as  lower  down.  It  is  probably  wooded 
as  far  as  Miniwakan  lake,  and  at  the  final  crossing  by  the  train  near  the  source  of  one  of  its 
forks,  was  even  then  noticeable  for  its  deep  valley  and  steep  banks. 

Mouse  river  is  a  large  stream  of  water,  and,  after  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  is  the  most  import 
ant  river  on  the  route  between  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri.  It  flows  in  a  deep,  wide  valley, 
upwards  of  200  feet  below  the  prairie  level,  with  a  width  of  bottom  varying  from  a  half  to  two 
miles;  is  wooded,  and  sometimes  heavily  wooded,  with  a  growth  of  elm,  oak,  ash,  and  probably 
with  other  woods.  Its  high  and  steep  banks,  of  about  the  same  formation  as  belongs  to  the 
Shayeime,  are  cut  by  deep  coulees,  extending  back  from  the  river  ten  and  fifteen  miles,  having 
generally  a  fertile  soil  and  scattered  trees.  These  coulees  are  difficult  of  passage  with  wagons, 
and  the  construction  of  a  railroad  across  them  would  be  attended  with  heavy  embankments  and 
culvert  masonry,  and  with  great  expense.  The  location  of  the  line  has  been  so  chosen  as  to 
head  them.  At  Mouse  river  a  coarse,  gray  sandstone  crops  out,  and  may  furnish  some  fair 
building-stone.  Near  by,  at  the  Butte  Maison  de  Chien,  examined  by  Mr.  Lander,  he  reports  an 
abundance  of  excellent  sandstone  for  building. 

Mouse  river  is  about  120  feet  wide,  and  was,  apparently,  as  much  as  seven  feet  deep,  and  is 
navigable  for  a  long  distance,  and  possibly  quite  to  Red  river.  The  information  obtained  in 
regard  to  it  was,  from  one  source,  that  no  obstruction  to  its  navigation  existed  as  far  down  as  its 
mouth ;  from  another  source,  that  there  was  one  intervening  rapid.  Its  navigability  would  be 
of  service  in  transporting  materials,  and  its  valley,  with  many  fertile  and  pleasing  locations, 
offers  greater  inducements  for  settlement  than  are  to  be  found  for  a  long  distance  on  either  side 
of  it. 

The  interval  remaining  to  the  high  plateau  hiding  the  valley  occupied  by  the  railroad  from  the 
Missouri,  is  by  the  River  of  the  Lakes,  a  tributary  of  Mouse  river — small,  but  possessing  in  its 
deep,  wide  valley  and  coulees  much  of  the  same  character.  It  is  wooded  for  only  a  small  extent. 
From  the  head  of  the  River  of  the  Lakes,  a  favoring  and  singular  coulee  breaks  the  Plateau 
du  Coteau  du  Missouri,  and,  with  a  grade  not  exceeding  forty  feet  per  mile,  the  line  passes 
through  to  the  bottom  lands  of  the  Missouri. 

From  the  commencement  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux  prairie  to  Missouri  river,  the  earth-work  would 
not  be  heavy,  nor  of  an  expensive  nature.  An  average  embankment  of  seven  feet  would  cover 
the  earth-work.  The  excavation  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux  prairie  is  easy,  approaching  and  bordering 
on  the  Shayenne;  boulders  and  stones  are  often  mingled  with  the  soil,  adding  to  the  expense  of 
removal ;  and  this  last  character  of  formation  is,  at  intervals,  met  with  all  along  the  line,  while, 
in  general,  the  substratum  appears  to  be  a  clayey  loam. 

Of  rock  excavation  there  is  none.  Except  in  crossing  the  divide,  grades  need  not  exceed 
thirty  feet  per  mile,  and  will  rarely  be  so  great. 

The  Bois  des  Sioux  will  require  a  bridge  of  140  feet;  the  Wild  Rice  river  120  feet;  a  small 
stream  near  Wild  Rice  river  should  be  spanned  by  a  hundred-foot  truss,  and  James  river  will 
require  120  feet  of  bridge. 

The  culvert  masonry  will  be  small  in  amount;  but  care  should  be  taken  in  side-ditching,  and 
the  prairie  embankment  should  always  be  as  high  as  four  feet,  both  to  obtain  a  dry  and  firm  road 
bed,  and  for  the  disposal  of  the  winter  snows. 

Wood  will  be  scantily  furnished  from  the  route  of  the  road  for  its  construction.  The  Bois  des 
Sioux  and  Wild  Rice  rivers  will  furnish  a  small  amount.  The  Shayenne  will  furnish  sleepers 
for  200  miles  of  the  way,  single  rail.  We  do  not  know  that  James  river  will  furnish  any. 
Wooded  lakes  occasionally  aid  in  the  supply.  Mouse  river  is  liberally  wooded,  and  I  think  may 
be  depended  upon  to  furnish  200  miles  with  sleepers.  The  connexion  with  the  Mississippi  and 
Red  rivers  at  one  end,  and  with  the  Missouri  at  the  other,  will  make  up  any  deficiency  in  the 
superstructure;  but  the  Missouri  bottoms  furnish  little  but  the  sweet  cotton-wood,  a  soft,  porous 
and  inferior  wood,  and  not  to  be  used  when  other  can  be  obtained  at  a  reasonable  expense. 


92  NATURAL    RESOURCES   OF    THE    COUNTRY. 

The  red  cedar,  in  small  quantities,  grows  both  above  and  below  Fort  Union.  A  good  deal  of 
valuable  white  oak  can  be  obtained  from  Red  river.  From  all  these  sources  I  estimate  that  the 
road  can  be  fitted  with  its  superstructure,  and  with  good  materials,  and  be  supplied  with  fuel  tor 
at  least  six  years'  running  time,  lull  operation,  and  from  its  various  connexions  could  indefinitely 
extend  this  period,  but  with  considerable  expense  for  transportation.  Coal,  according  to  Dr. 
Owen,  exists  in  the  lower  part  of  Minnesota  and  in  Iowa;  and  while  our  exploration  has  ascer 
tained  the  existence  of  an  inferior  coal  in  Mouse  River  valley,  the  information  obtained  there 
makes  it  probable  that  a  better  coal  is  to  be  found  in  that  region. 

Stone  for  masonrv  is  also  scarce,  and  but  little  is  needed.  The  frequency  of  the  granite 
boulders  will  be  of  service  in  the  building  of  culverts,  and  to  some  degree  may  aid  in  constructing 
the  small  amount  of  bridge  abutments.  Building-stone  in  abundance  can  be  obtained  from  near 
the  Butte  Maison  de  Chien,  and  possibly  the  sandstone  of  Mouse  river  will  be  found  of  value. 

At  Mouse,  Shayenne,  Bois  des  Sioux,  and  Wild  Rice  rivers,  but  with  better  facility  at  Red  river, 
all  the  materials  for  good  bricks  are  obtained,  and  it  may  be  found  cheaper  and  better  to  use  brick 
masonry  in  the  neighboring  bridge  and  culvert  works. 

'  Water  can,  by  reservoirs  and  unimportant  aqueducts,  be  introduced  at  any  point  of  the  line 
required.  The  numerous  small  lakes  extending  along  the  greater  part  of  the  distance  will, 
in  this  way,  be  of  service. 

A  little  east  from  the  second  crossing  of  the  Shayenne  were  observed  the  first  indications  of 
approach  to  the  "  salt-water  region."  Throughout  this  region,  extending  from  this  point  to  the 
Mouse  River  valley,  small  ponds  and  lakes  are  to  be  found,  (brackish  and  slightly  salt)  and 
frequently  with  white  salt  incrustations  of  small  amount  on  their  borders.  More  abundant  than 
these  salt-water  lakes,  and  constantly  intermixed  with  them,  are  the  small  fresh-water  ponds 
and  lakes,  occurring  quite  as  often  as  is  desirable  either  for  travelling  or  railroad  purposes. 
With  this  abundant  supply  no  unusual  construction  or  expense  will  be  required  in  establishing 
watering-places.  With  noon  and  night  halts  at  intervals  averaging  less  than  ten  miles  distance, 
there  was  never  a  deficiency  of  fresh-water. 

Prairie  fires  should  be  provided  against  by  side-ditching.  The  grass  is  not  tall  and  heavy,  and 
with  proper  provision  no  injury  to  the  wood  need  be  anticipated  from  this  source. 

Proceeding  up  the  Missouri,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Muddy  river  to  the  entrance  of 
Milk  river,  the  railroad  line,  for  near  180  miles,  follows  up  the  favorable  valley  of  this  latter 
stream  ;  then  leaving  it,  passes  on  to  the  prairies,  and  so  continues  until  within  a  few  miles  of 
the  mountain  pass;  crossing  in  succession  Marias,  Teton,  and  Sun  rivers,  with  the  tributaries  of 
Dearborn  river.  The  route  considered  enters  the  mountains  by  the  pass  which,  in  our  survey, 
has*  been  termed  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass;  the  more  northern  of  the  two  opening  into  the 
valley  of  Blackfoot  river,  or  by  "  Cadotte's  Pass" — a  second  entrance  into  that  valley. 

Missouri  river  is,  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Union,  some  four  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  and, 
so  far  as  followed  by  the  route,  has  a  wide  bottom  of  from  two  to  eight  miles  across.  The  river 
is  well  wooded  with  the  sweet  cotton-wood,  and  has  a  small  quantity  of  red  cedar.  On  the 
south  side  rise  the  Mauvaises  Terres  hills,  making  up  to  some  three  hundred  to  five  hundred  feet 
height,  whose  name  well  defines  their  character — bare,  and  broken  into  every  irregularity, 
washed  with  gulleys  and  ravines,  and  yet  whose  silvery  glistening  front,  with  its  blended  light 
and  shade,  is  often  a  landscape  feature  of  wonderful  beauty.  On  the  north  side,  also,  the  bluffs 
generally  rise  abruptly,  and  a  few  miles  back  of  the  river  the  plains  attain  an  elevation  above  it 
of  from  one  hundred  to  three  hundred  feet.  A  coarse  soft  sandstone  crops  out  often  in  the  edge 
of  the  bluffs,  and  apparently  underlies  the  whole  surface  extending  to  the  upper  Missouri  above 
Fort  Benton.  The  bottom-lands  are  almost  flat,  descending  slightly  towards  the  river.  The 
Missouri  has  probably  but  a  small  fall — a  fall  which,  according  to  the  barometric  observations, 
does  not  exceed  one  foot  per  mile. 

By  the  various  windings  of  the  route,  Milk  river  enters  the  Missouri  some  one  hundred  and 


NATURAL   RESOURCES   OF   THE   COUNTRY.  93 

twenty  miles  above  Fort  Union,  and  the  line  traces  its  course  for  some  one  hundred  and  eighty 
miles.  Comparatively  a  small  stream,  it  yet  shows  much  the  some  features  as  the  Missouri; 
has  a  wide,  open  intervale,  half  to  four  miles  wide;  is  closed  in  on  either  side  by  the  bluffs  ter 
minating  the  plains,  which  ascend  as  they  recede  from  the  river,  the  bluffs  being  very  frequently 
cut  with  deep  coulees,  which  can  be  traced  live,  ten,  or  fifteen  miles  into  the  interior.  The  river 
is  plentifully  supplied  with  cotton-wood,  and  its  bottom-lands  are  flat  and  generally  wide.  At  the 
first  crossing  of  this  river  by  the  train,  some  fifty  miles  above  its  mouth,  the  bed  of  the  stream 
had  a  width  of  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet;  the  running  water  was  but  fifty  feet  wide  and 
two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  with  a  sandy  bottom,  and  banks  of  clay  and  sand  rising  some  fifteen 
feet  above  the  water-level,  unstable,  and  often  displaced  by  the  river  in  its  annual  floods. 
At  the  third  crossing,  by  the  winding  of  the  wagon  road,  a  little  more  than  one  hundred  and 
eighty  miles  above  its  mouth,  the  river  retained  nearly  the  same  width  of  bed  and  general 
features,  but  with  no  running  stream,  the  water  remaining  in  the  depressions  and  holes  in  its  bed. 

The  bottom-lands,  both  of  the  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers,  are  composed  of  clay  and  sand,  of  a 
nature  to  become  soft  and  sloppy  with  the  wet  of  spring,  and  on  the  dry  season  succeeding,  becom 
ing  parched  and  cracked.  The  prairie  and  upland  formations  are  remarkably  undeviating  in  their 
character,  consisting  of  a  mixture  of  clay  and  sand,  intermixed  with  smooth  pebbles,  extending 
below  the  surface  only  from  one  to  three  feet,  and  below  all,  the  underlying  coarse  sandstone 
The  clay  washed  by  the  rains  finds  its  way  into  the  coulees  and  the  bottom  of  the  river,  leaving 
the  exposed  pebbles  on  the  surface,  deceiving  one  with  the  appearance  of  gravelly  or  stony  knolls. 
This  section  does  not  offer  the  best,  but  will  afford  a  fair  material  for  road  embankment. 

The  tributary  rivers  on  the  north  side  for  which  bridges  must  be  erected  are  Great  Muddy 
river,  Poplar  river,  and  Porcupine  river — all  small  streams,  with  an  average  width  of  sixty  feet, 
and  greatest  depth  three  feet,  at  our  several  crossings. 

The  Missouri  and  Milk  river  bottoms  possess  one  peculiar  feature,  for  which  provision 
must  be  made  in  constructing  a  railroad.  At  short  intervals,  averaging  not  over  eight  miles  for 
the  whole  river  line,  narrow  canal-like  channels  are  found  generally  extending  from  the  coulees 
of  the  bluffs,  for  the  greater  part  dry  in  summer,  but  in  spring  freshets  are  the  sluices  by  which 
the  water  from  the  rain  and  snow  finds  its  passage  to  the  river.  These  channels  or  sloughs  have 
an  average  width  of  twenty-five  feet,  with  a  depth  of  eight  feet,  and  should  be  spanned  with  a 
simple  timber  structure  to  prevent  the  accumulation  of  water  and  injury  to  the  road-bed. 

The  high  prairie  plateau  which  the  road  attains  on  leaving  Milk  river  reaches  to  the  base  of 
the  Rocky  mountains,  and  is  marked  with  but  little  variation  of  surface.  The  same  formation  of 
clay  and  sand,  with  more  or  less  admixture  of  pebbles,  continues  as  on  the  prairies,  running  back 
from  the  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers.  There  is  a  scarcity  of  wood  and  water.  The  soil  at  first 
possesses  little  fertility,  scantily  shaded  with  a  short  thin  grass ;  gradually  improving  as  the  ap 
proach  is  made  to  the  mountains.  Through  this  plateau  the  rivers  Marias  and  Teton  flow  in  deep 
channels,  concealed  from  sight  till  one  is  close  upon  them,  with  bottoms  fairly  wooded  with  cotton- 
wood  one-quarter  to  half  a  mile  wide,  and  marked  by  the  deep  coulees  intersecting  their  valleys. 
These  two  rivers,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  railroad  line,  are  about  two  hundred  and  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  wide,  and  flow  some  two  hundred  feet  below  the  general  level  of  the  prairie. 
The  water  is  no  longer  muddy  or  milky,  as  in  the  Missouri,  with  its  lower  tributaries,  but  is 
clear  and  cool,  flowing  over  a  pebbly  and  sandy  bottom.  The  passage  of  the  Marias  river 
is  one  of  some  difficulty  and  expense,  owing  to  the  depth  of  the  river  below  the  prairie.  The 
Teton  is  crossed  high  up,  and  with  less  difficulty.  Sun  river  is  crossed  near  its  source,  and 
with  ease. 

From  the  Great  Muddy  river  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains  there  is  a  river  line  for  two 
hundred  and  sixty-five  miles,  and  the  balance  is  of  prairie.  The  earth-work  in  all  this  extent  will 
not  be  heavy.  An  average  embankment  of  eight  feet  will  more  than  cover  it.  The  material,  as 
already  stated,  is  a  mixture  of  clay  and  sand,  not  a  light  loam,  but  easily  broken  up  with  the 


94  NATURAL    RESOURCES   OF   THE   COUNTRY. 

plough  or  pick,  exposing  a  smooth  and  steep  surface  where  undermined  by  brooks,  and  sliding  at 
a  steep  angle. 

It  is  not  known  that  any  rock  excavation  will  be  necessary.  Occasionally  a  spur  of  coarse 
gray  sandstone,  in  broken  detached  masses,  shoots  across  the  line  from  the  river  bluffs,  but  gen 
erally  not  without  the  opportunity  of  turning  it.  Two  miles  of  side-cut  rock  excavation  will  cover 
this  item. 

The  grades  and  curves  are  probably  unequalled  by  any  existing  railroad  of  the  same  extent. 
On  the  river-bottoms  there  will  rarely  be  occasion  to  exceed  the  rise  of  the  rivers,  by  observation 
there  bein^,  for  the  Missouri  about  one  foot  to  the  mile,  and  for  Milk  river  three  feet  to  I  he  mile. 
The  rise  from  Milk  river  to  the  plains  is  made  with  a  grade  of  thirty-five  feet  to  the  mile.  The 
coulees  makino-  down  to  Marias  and  Teton  rivers,  affords  opportunity  for  crossing  these  streams 
with  grades  not  exceeding  forty  feet  per  mile. 

No  stream  in  this  section  is  so  large  as  to  require  more  than  a  single  span  of  bridge  truss. 
Timber  trusses  will  undoubtedly  be  found  cheapest  and  best  in  every  case.  Great  Muddy  river, 
Poplar  and  Porcupine  rivers,  will  each  require  eighty-feet  trusses,  with  two  abutments.  Milk 
river  is  crossed  in  a  bend  of  the  stream,  at  right-angles  to  the  current,  is  spanned  with  a  truss 
of  about  two  hundred  and  forty  feet,  and  has  an  abutment  twenty  feet  high  above  the  river-bottom. 
The  masonry  of  this  bridge  should  be  protected,  by  piling,  from  the  wash  of  the  freshets.  Marias 
and  Teton  rivers  will  respectively  require  trusses  of  about  two  hundred  and  twenty  and  one  hun 
dred  and  sixty  feet  length. 

The  numerous  small  waterways  required  on  the  bottoms  of  the  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers  have 
already  been  noticed  in  sufficient  detail ;  as  they  carry  little  or  no  drift-ice  and  wood,  it  is  not 
necessary  to  clear  their  highest  water-line  more  than  six  feet. 

The  supplies  of  wood  accessible  are  the  cotton- woods  of  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers,  the  wooded 
mountain  termed  the  "Trois  Buttes,"  about  sixty  miles  north  of  the  line,  the  mountains  to  the 
south  of  the  Missouri,  near  Fort  Benton,  and  the  Rocky  mountains  at  the  end  of  the  section. 

The  "black  growth"  of  the  streams  of  the  Yellowstone  becomes,  too,  tributary  to  this  section 
at  the  confluence  of  this  river  with  the  Missouri,  near  Fort  Union,  and  may  be  serviceable. 

Of  cotton-wood  there  is  an  abundance.  In  certain  situations  this  wood  is  durable  and  use 
ful  in  building,  but,  as  a  railroad  sleeper,  would  soon  decay;  and  being,  moreover,  soft,  would  not 
firmly  retain  the  spikes  and  chains  with  which  the  rail  is  secured.  The  stockade  at  Fort  Union  is 
of  cotton- wood,  does  not  rest  on  the  ground,  and  although  erected  some  twenty  or  more  years 
ago,  is  firm  and  sound.  A  small  quantity  of  red  cedar  grows  on  the  Missouri,  and  to  some  small 
extent  will  be  available  in  building.  The  "  Trois  Buttes"  above  are  capable  of  supplying  three 
hundred  miles  of  sleepers,  single  rail,  and  probably  more  if  necessary.  These  Buttes  rise  about 
3,300  feet  above  the  prairies  at  their  base,  and  with  their  wood  and  stone  are  a  natural  storehouse 
of  materials.  They  are  wooded  for  about  half  the  extent,  mainly  with  spruce  and  a  kind  of  yel 
low  pine,  the  trees  being  small,  from  eight  inches  to  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  growing  straight 
and  thickly  clustered  together.  From  the  base  of  these  mountains  a  smooth  dry  prairie  extends  to 
the  route  of  the  railway;  and  with  but  little  preparation  of  grading,  rails  could  be  laid  to  bring 
this  store  of  wood  to  the  line  of  the  road.  The  Rocky  mountains  afford  an  abundance  of  excel 
lent  wood,  generally  the  yellow  pine.  On  the  whole  this  portion  of  the  route  may  be  looked  upon 
as  capable  of  supplying  sufficient  wood,  both  as  fuel  and  building  material,  for  present  and  future 
use. 

The  lignite  of  this  region,  traced  from  the  coulees  of  Mouse  river  to  the  headwaters  of  Milk 
river,  (a  distance  of  five  hundred  miles)  apparently  underlying  the  whole  extensive  district  of 
this  country,  with  a  thickness  of  bed  varying  from  a  few  inches  to  six  feet,  is  a  source  of  fuel 
not  to  be  overlooked.  The  wooded  lands,  with  proper  management  and  a  care  for  future  wants, 
I  judge,  will  of  themselves  furnish  the  amount  of  fuel  needed;  but  our  present  estimates  as  to  the 
business  of  a  railroad  traversing  this  route,  and  the  wants  of  settlements  growing  up  from  the 


NATURAL   RESOURCES   OF   THE   COUNTRY.  95 

establishment  of  the  road,  may  differ  very  widely  from  the  truth,  and  it  is  not  unwise  to  take  into 
consideration  this  inferior  but  extensive  layer  of  coal,  the  working  of  which  may  at  some  time 
become  desirable  and  profitable. 

A  coarse  but  generally  weak  and  useless  sandstone  extends  throughout  the  Missouri  and  Milk 
rivers.  In  some  places  a  firm  sandstone,  suitable  for  building,  is  to  be  found.  Sandstone  of  this 
character  was  noticed  near  Fort  Union,  near  the  last  crossing  of  Milk  river,  and  it  is  to  be  obtained 
in  abundance  at  the  "  Trois  Buttes,"  on  the  eastern  base.  Several  other  stones  compose  these 
mountains,  the  most  valuable  of  which  is  a  beautiful  marble,  at  times  having  an  alabaster  white 
ness  and  clearness. 

Lime  is  to  be  obtained  from  near  Fort  Benton,  from  the  "Trois  Buttes,"  and  from  the  Rocky 
mountains. 

Sand,  though  in  a  clean  state  not  abundant,  is  to  be  found  in  the  beds  of  the  rivers,  and 
occasionally  at  other  places  in  limited  quantities. 

Good  materials  for  brick  are  furnished  on  the  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers. 

Throughout  the  dry  summer  and  fall  season  most  of  the  small  tributaries  making  into  Missouri 
and  Milk  rivers  are  dried  up,  and  both  in  the  intervale  and  on  the  prairie  there  is  a  scarcity  of 
water.  The  high  plateau  making  back  from  these  rivers  affords,  however,  the  opportunity  of 
securing  the  necessary  supplies  by  reservoirs  ;  and  protected  from  evaporation,  there  is  no  reason 
to  doubt  that  water  for  the  uses  of  a  railroad  can  be  supplied  as  conveniently  here  as  on  the 
States'  roads. 

For  much  valuable  information  in  reference  to  the  country  east  of  the  mountains,  I  will  refer 
you  to  Mr.  Lander's  report  of  the  crossings  of  the  Mississippi,  D  No.  11;  Lieutenant  Grover's 
report  of  the  Dead  Colt  Hillock  line,  D  No.  10;  Lieutenant  Donelson's  report  of  the  country 
between  the  White  Earth  and  Big  Muddy  rivers,  E  No.  14;  Mr.  Tinkham's  report  of  his  recon 
naissance  of  the  Three  Buttes  and  the  country  between  the  Milk  and  Marias  rivers,  D  No.  12  ; 
and  Doctor  Evans's  report  of  his  route  south  of  the  Missouri,  and  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri 
rivers,  D  No.  13.  I  am  particularly  indebted  to  the  perseverance  and  skill  of  Messrs.  Lander 
and  Tinkham  for  much  of  the  valuable"  statistical  information  given  in  this  chapter. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

*  . 

Railroad  Practicability  of  the  Rocky  and  Coeur  d'Alene  Mountains.  —  Description  of  the 

ranges  and  of  the  several 


In  determining  the  route  through  the  Rocky  mountains,  regard  must  be  had  to  the  difficulties  of 
approach  as  well  as  to  the  difficulties  in  the  pass  itself.  Before  considering  the  question,  it 
will  first  be  necessary  to  show  the  route  through  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains. 

The  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains  may  be  regarded  as  extending  from  Snake  river  to  Clark's  fork, 
and  as  covering  from  two  to  three  degrees  of  longitude.  Clark's  fork  separating  it  from  a  range 
still  farther  north,  called  the  Kootenaies  mountains,  has  its  source  in  the  Rocky  mountains  in  two 
principal  branches  —  one  flowing  from  the  south,  called  the  Bitter  Root  river,  and  the  other 
flowing  from  the  north,  and  called  the  Flathead  river.  These  rivers  separate  the  Coeur  d'Alene 
and  Kootenaies  mountains  from  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  —  with  the  exception  of  a  mountain 
spur  running  down  towards  their  point  of  junction,  giving,  however,  a  good  pass  from  the  one 
valley  to  the  other  —  they  form  a  continuous  valley  extending  along  the  western  base  of  the  Rocky 
mountains  from  45°  30'  of  N.  latitude  to  far  north  into  British  territory.  To  the  south,  however, 
at  the  headwaters  of  the  Bitter  Root,  of  the  Snake,  and  the  three  forks  of  the  Missouri,  the 
Cceur  d'Alene  unites  with  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

There  are  at  least  four  passes  in  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains,  well  known  to  the  aborigines  : 
the  pass  of  Clark's  fork,  the  Cceur  d'Alene  pass  by  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mission,  the  northern 
Nez  Perces  trail,  and  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail.  The  northern  Nez  Perces  trail  is  the  route 
of  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  was  not  examined.  The  three  other  passes  have  been  carefully 
examined  by  me.  There  is  said,  however,  to  be  a  fifth  trail  between  the  Cceur  d'Alene  and 
northern  Nez  Perces  trails,  more  practicable  for  wagons  than  any  of  the  others.  This  has  been 
explored  by  Lieutenant  Mullan,  but  his  report  has  not  been  received. 

The  southern  Nez  Perces  trail  leads  from  the  southwest  fork  of  the  St.  Mary's  river,  connect 
ing,  by  a  tolerably  direct  route,  St.  Mary's  valley  with  Wallah-Wallah.  For  120  miles  it  passes 
over  wooded  mountains,  dropping  at  times  into  valleys,  and,  crossing  them,  ascends  the  spurs  and 
hills  again.  Its  elevation  rarely  if  ever  falls  so  low  as  3,000  feet,  and  sometimes  reaches  as  high 
as  8,000  feet  —  an  estimate,  the  barometer  having  been  cached  at  the  (height  of  7,250  feet.  In 
the  month  of  December,  when,  with  considerable  detention  and  difficulty,  Mr.  Tinkham  crossed 
the  mountains  on  snow-shoes,  the  snow  was  generally  about  three  feet  deep,  sometimes  six  feet, 
and  in  a  single  instance,  as  near  as  could  be  ascertained,  ten  feet  deep.  The  average  depth  of 
the  snow  tor  the  whole  120  miles  was  a  little  less  than  two  feet.  Tributaries  of  the  Koos-koos-kia 
head  near  the  sources  of  the  southwest  fork  of  the  St.  Mary's  river,  and  offer  the  only  possible 
chance  of  getting  through  the  Bitter  Root  mountain.  This  direction  is  by  the  Koos-koos-kia. 
A  tunnel  will  be  required  at  the  divide  separating  the  two  streams.  The  Koos-koos-kia  was 
crossed  near  its  head,  at  an  elevation  of  3,760  feet;  its  valley  in  this  place  is  narrow  and  dark, 
with  steep,  rocky  and  wooded  hills  enclosing  it.  It  has  the  same  character  where  it  unites 
with  the  Clearwater  river  after  leaving  the  mountain.  Between  these  two  points  the  river  has 
not  been  examined.  The  northern  Nez  Perces  trail  is  very  much  of  the  same  character,  and 
does  not  come  into  competition  for  a  route.  The  Cceur  d'Alene  Pass  may  be  briefly  described 
as  a  pass  formed  by  two  streams  flowing  in  opposite  directions  from  two  lakes  almost  half  a 
mile  apart.  The  western  lake  is  about  700  feet  above  the  eastern.  The  two  valleys,  though 


ROCKY  MOUNTAIN    PASSES.  97 

narrow  and  somewhat  tortuous,  will  admit,  however,  of  a  railroad  at  a  practicable  grade — the 
eastern  one  to  within  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  and  a  half  miles  of  the  lake  whence  the 
stream  has  its  source;  the  western  valley  three  and  a  half  to  four  and  a  half  miles  from  its 
lake.  These  two  points  are  six  to  eight  miles  apart,  and  differ  in  level  some  300  to  500  feet. 
Between  them  the  valleys  rise  rapidly,  attaining  at  the  two  lakes  an  elevation  respectively  of 
2,000  and  1,300  feet  above  the  western,  and  1,500  and  800  above  the  eastern  base.  Thus  a 
tunnel  having  an  inclination  of  37.5  to  83.3  feet,  and  six  to  eight  miles  long,  is  the  essential  con 
dition  to  a  road  by  this  route. 

The  route  by  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mission  is  exceedingly  direct,  both  in  its  own  course  and  in  its 
connexion  with  the  Blackfoot  and  Hell  Gate  trails.  If  practicable,  it  would  abridge  distance 
about  seventy  miles,  equivalent  to  the  cost  of  a  tunnel  of  about  the  probable  length  of  the  tunnel 
required  on  the  Cceur  d'Alene  route.  The  cost  of  the  tunnel,  supposing  it  to  be  seven  miles  long, 
would  be  about  $5,000,000.  It  is  in  limestone  entirely,  and  easily  worked.  The  saving  in  the 
length  of  the  road  would  be,  say  70  miles,  at  $70,000,  or  iu  round  numbers  $5,000,000.  It  was 
unfortunate  that  a  barometrical  profile  could  not  be  taken  on  this  route  in  consequence  of  the 
want  of  instruments  ;  but  Mr.  Stanley,  an  excellent  judge  of  distances  and  heights,  made  esti 
mates  which  I  am  satisfied,  from  my  own  personal  observation,  will  prove  good  approximations. 
There  is  a  good  wagon-road  from  the  mission  to  Wallah- Wallah,  indicated  on  the  map,  and  it  is 
believed  no  difficulty  would  exist  in  connecting  this  route,  south  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake, 
either  with  the  Columbia  river  or  Snoqualme  Pass  route. 

The  valley  of  Clark's  fork,  however,  affords  an  excellent  railroad  line  presenting  no  special 
obstacles;  and  the  question  now  is,  to  determine  which  pass  of  the  Rocky  mountains  shall  be 
made  use  of  in  passing  from  the  plateau  between  the  Milk  and  Missouri  rivers  to  Clark's  fork. 

Nine  passes  have  been  explored  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  beginning  twenty  or  thirty  miles 
below  the  49th  parallel,  and  extending  southwardly  three  hundred  and  four  miles  in  latitude,  to 
the  most  southern  pass  explored  at  the  source  of  Jefferson  fork.  From  this  pass  to  Fort 
Hall,  the  extreme  southern  limit  of  the  exploration,  the  distance  in  latitude  is  eighty  miles.  The 
northern  pass,  termed  the  Marias  Pass,  where  a  tributary  of  Clark's  fork  has  its  spring  near 
the  source  of  the  Marias  river — elevation  7,669  feet;  a  pass  at  the  head  of  Beaver  creek  on  the 
east,  and  a  tributary  of  Blackfoot  fork  on  the  west — elevation  6,323  feet :  this  is  the  pass  of  Lewis 
and  Clark ;  Cadotte's  Pass,  named  from  one  of  our  hunters,  who  used  the  pass  some  two  years  since, 
forming  the  headwaters  of  Dearborn  river  and  Blackfoot  fork,  6,044  feet  high  ;  a  pass  at  the  head 
of  the  north  branch  of  the  Little  Blackfoot  fork  on  the  west,  and  a  stream  making  into  the  Missouri 
on  the  east — elevation  6,283  feet ;  a  pass  at  the  south  branch  of  the  Little  Blackfoot  river ;  a 
pass  at  the  head  of  the  Hell  Gate  river ;  one  from  the  East  fork  of  the  St.  Mary's  river  to  the 
Wisdom  fork  of  Jefferson  river;  and,  finally,  a  pass  from  the  East  fork  of  St.  Mary's  "or  Bitter 
Root  river  to  the  Wisdom  fork  of  Jefferson  river. 

Marias  Pass,  the  extreme  northerly  one  of  all,  is  the  passage  over  the  mountains  by  a  tributary 
of  Marias  river  on  the  east,  and  of  Flathead  river  on  the  west,  the  wooded  valley  of  which  leads 
down  to  the  open,  wide  valley,  where  is  Flathead  lake.  The  branch  of  Marias  river  is  a  mere 
brook  where  it  leaves  the  limits  of  the  mountain  and  passes  to  the  smooth  prairies,  only  nine  or 
ten  miles  from  its  source,  and  the  rocky  wall-like  divide  which  abruptly  terminates  its  valley. 
This  divide,  when  crossed  at  its  highest  point  by  the  trail,  is  7,600  feet  above  the  sea ;  and  its 
height,  where  seemed  to  be  the  most  favorable  opportunity  of  tunnelling,  is  apparently  500  to 
1,000  feet  higher.  A  tunnel  of  two  and  a  half  miles  (an  uncertain  estimate  from  the  manner  in 
which  the  divide  was  crossed)  would  probably  reduce  the  elevation  so  far  as  it  is  practicable  to 
do  so  by  tunnelling,  the  mountain  being  pierced  at  an  elevation  of  5,450  feet;  but  the  rapid 
descent  of  the  tributary  of  Flathead  river,  to  which  we  pass  on  the  west  for  the  first  seventeen 
miles,  in  which  distance  it  falls  2,170  feet  below  the  level  assigned  to  the  tunnel,  is  so  objection 
able  that  this  route  is  not  likely  to  come  into  competition  with  the  passes  farther  south.  On  the 
13/ 


98  ROCKY   MOUNTAIN   PASSES. 

other  side,  the  tributary  of  Marias  river  descends  near  1,200  feet  in  sixteen  miles.  There  are, 
probably,  passages  of  the  mountains  connecting  other  branches  of  the  Marias  river  with  other 
tributaries  of  Flathead  river,  and  giving,  perhaps,  opportunities  for  passing  the  divide  with  more 
ease  than  by  the  way  explored ;  and  should  a  line  in  this  direction  be  thought  desirable,  it  should 
be  remembered  that  the  field  has  been  very  partially  explored.  The  mountains  here  have,  how 
ever,  a  very  different  character  from  what  they  have  farther  south,  being  higher  and  forbidding, 
their  sharp,  gray  peaks  stripped  of  all  vegetation,  in  every  direction  towering  above  the  mass  of 
wooded  mountains  and  valleys  below  them. 

A  route  through  this  pass  can  be  preferable  only  as  connecting  with  a  route  to  the  north  of 
Flathead  river.  To  follow  down  the  valley  of  Flathead  river  after  arriving  at  Flathead  lake, 
will  make  it  greater  in  length,  in  addition  to  its  other  disadvantages.  The  reconnaissance  did 
not  show  that  it  was  impossible  to  proceed  westwardly  in  a  more  direct  line,  but  the  only  two 
places  in  the  valley  containing  Flathead  lake  and  river,  which  were  not  bounded  by  high  hills  or 
mountains  on  the  western  border,  are  at  the  north  and  south  extremities  of  Flathead  lake.  These 
were  the  only  places  where  there  appeared  any  possibility  of  breaking  through  the  mountains. 
At  the  south  extremity  of  Flathead  lake  is  a  small  break  in  the  hills,  running  in  a  nearly  west 
direction,  but  this  small  valley  has  no  stream  of  any  importance  in  it,  and  there  is  nothing  to 
show  that  it  extends  farther  than  can  be  seen  from  the  lake,  a  half  dozen  miles.  At  the  upper 
end  of  the  lake  the  hills  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley  appear  to  cease  for  a  while.  There  is  a 
prairie  here  of  considerable  extent,  the  eastern  edge  of  which  was  followed  by  Mr.  Tinkham,  and 
it  may  be  practicable  upon  this  prairie  to  proceed  westwardly  direct,  without  following  Flat- 
head  river  to  Clark's  fork.  It  is  a  matter  for  future  examination.  Of  the  route  actually  ex 
amined,  Flathead  river,  from  Jocko  river  to  Marias  Pass,  and  from  Marias  Pass  to  Fort  Benton 
across  the  prairie,  the  most  difficult  portion  has  already  been  noticed,  the  section  of  thirty-five 
miles,  including  the  summit.  West  of  this,  for  about  twenty  miles  the  valley  continues  narrow, 
closed  in  by  high,  precipitous,  wooded  mountains,  and  a  railway  here  must  be  made  with  very 
heavy  and  expensive  work,  rock  cutting,  culvert  and  bridge  work,  and  sustaining  masonry,  with 
some  short  curves,  but  without  high  grades.  The  valley  then  opens  and  closes  again  but  once, 
and  then  only  for  a  very  short  distance,  and  until  reaching  Flathead  lake  the  route  is  very 
promising  in  its  grades,  curves,  and  the  small  amount  of  grading  required  ;  but  little  rock  excava 
tion  will  be  necessary.  The  western  shore  of  Flathead  lake  crooks  abruptly  and  often,  following 
the  base  of  the  wooded  and  rocky  hills  which  border  it.  The  construction  of  the  road  here 
involves  short  curves,  expensive  rock  cutting  and  masonry.  The  eastern  shore  appears  more 
promising,  but  has  not  been  examined.  From  Flathead  lake  to  Jocko  river,  following  the 
valley  of  Flathead  river,  the  route  is  favorable,  generally  unwooded,  without  heavy  grading  or 
masonry.  East  of  the  mountains  a  nearly  straight  line  can  be  obtained  from  the  point  where  the 
railway  line  leaves  Milk  river  to  the  plains  near  the  base  of  the  mountains,  sixteen  miles  from 
the  divide.  This  is  all  dry  prairie  country,  without  wood,  and  with  but  tittle  water  on  the 
surface  during  the  dry  season. 

The  six  passes  next  mentioned  above  debouche  into  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root.  The  routes 
of  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass  and  Cadotte's  Pass  meet  in  the  valley  of  the  Big  Blackfoot  river,  thir 
teen  and  a  half  miles  west  of  the  dividing  ridge,  (Cadotte's  Divide.)  Those  by  the  two  branches 
of  the  Little  Blackfoot  meet  and  continue  for  some  distance  in  its  valley,  which  finally  connects 
with  Hell  Gate  fork;  in  the  valley  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  and  the  five  routes,  thus  becoming  two, 
follow  down  these  two  rivers  and  enter  the  Bitter  Root  valley  at  Hell  Gate.  They  will  be  called 
the  Big  Blackfoot,  Little  Blackfoot,  and  Hell  Gate  trails  ;  each  of  the  two  former  being  easily 
reached  from  the  east  by  two  passes  over  the  dividing  ridge,  and  the  latter  having  likewise  seve 
ral  connexions,  through  the  mountains,  with  the  regions  to  the  east. 

These  passes  are  probably  all  practicable  for  a  railroad  ;  but  the  pass  from  Wisdom  river  is 
out  of  direction,  and  the  Hell  Gate  and  southern  Little  Blackfoot  passes  are  approached  with  some 


ROCKY   MOUNTAIN    PASSES.  99 

difficulty,  and  involve  a  considerable  detour  as  regards  the  approach  from  the  north  of  the  Mis 
souri. 

The  northern  Little  Blackfoot  Pass  is  the  one  by  which  Mr.  Tinkham  crossed  the  Rocky  mount 
ains  the  third  time,  and  in  November;  is  at  the  source  of  one  of  the  north  forks  of  Hell  Gate  river, 
termed  by  Lieutenant  Mullan  Little  Blackfoot  river,  and  is  remarkably  easy.  The  Indian  trail 
passing  here  is  a  well-worn  road,  and  is  perfectly  practicable  for  wagons.  The  dividing  ridge  is 
an  inconsiderable  hill,  three  hundred  to  five  hundred  feet  high.  Between  this  pass  and  the  prairies 
of  Marias,  Teton,  and  Sun  rivers,  the  country  is  somewhat  irregular  and  broken.  The  barometer 
gave  the  summit  elevation  of  the  pass  at  6,250  feet  above  the  sea,  which  will  probably,  in  a 
discussion  of  the  observations,  be  reduced  to  less  than  6,000  feet. 

In  pursuing  this  route,  Mr.  Tinkham  kept  south  of  the  Missouri  until  the  gate  of  the  mountain 
was  turned;  and  for  information  of  the  approach  north  of  the  Missouri,  I  am  indebted  to  an 
exploration  under  Lieutenant  Mullan.  In  a  trip  to  Fort  Benton  and  back  to  the  St.  Mary's 
valley  in  March,  Lieutenant  Mullan  brought  a  wagon  through  this  pass,  making  the  journey  from 
Fort  Benton  to  Cantonment  Stevens,  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  ninety-six  miles,  in  twelve 
travelling  days ;  and  there  seems  scarcely  a  doubt  as  to  there  being  an  excellent  railroad  approach 
to  it  north  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  route  pursued  by  him.  He  kept  on  the  high  table-land  between 
the  Missouri  and  the  Teton.  crossed  the  Sun  and  the  Dearborn  rivers  a  little  south  of  the  crossing 
of  the  main  party  in  September  last ;  then  keeping  farther  to  the  south,  he  crossed  the  small 
Prickly  Pear  creek,  and  crossing  a  divide,  the  one  taken  by  Mr.  Tinkham  in  November,  he 
found  the  inclination  so  gradual,  that  he  descended  from  it  not  only  without  locking  wheels,  but 
on  a  run.  His  course  then  was  by  the  Little  Blackfoot  and  Hell  Gate  rivers.  A  little  work  is 
required  on  this  route  in  cutting  timber  to  get  an  excellent  wagon  road.  The  eastern  approach 
is  estimated  as  practicable  with  a  grade  of  fifty  to  sixty  feet  per  mile,  the  passage  of  the  ridge 
with  a  two-mile  tunnel,  and  the  western  descent  with  a  grade  of  thirty  feet.  The  valleys  of  the 
Little  Blackfoot  and  Hell  Gate  rivers,  from  the  pass  to  the  junction  with  the  Blackfoot  river,  are 
more  open  and  regular  than  the  valley  of  the  latter.  Its  descent  is  regular,  and,  by  the  barometric 
observations,  is,  from  the  foot  of  the  summit  divide  to  Hell  Gate,  ninety-five  miles,  twenty-two 
and  a  half  feet  per  mile.  The  route  for  the  greater  portion  of  the  way  keeps  on  the  bottom-lands, 
which  are  generally  unobstructed  by  timber,  sufficient  wood  always  lining  the  streams  for  use  as 
fuel,  whether  for  camping  or  settlement.  For  lumber,  the  woods  of  pines  and  other  evergreens 
are  sufficiently  near  for  use ;  but  the  thick  woods  do  not  crowd  the  valley  as  in  some  places 
on  Blackfoot  river.  An  open  growth  of  yellow  pine  occupies  the  bottom-lands  for  a  few  miles 
in  the  lower  part  of  the  valley,  and  the  cotton-wood  growth  sometimes  stretches  across  the  bottom. 
The  construction  of  a  railway  down  this  valley  will  probably  make  necessary  the  bridging  or 
turning  of  the  main  stream  several  times.  Curves  will  be  easy,  and  the  grades  used  not  gene 
rally  exceed  the  natural  descent  of  the  valley. 

The  route  is  indicated  on  the  sketch  in  dotted  lines.  It  will  increase  the  route  forty-four 
miles,  but  it  may  give  the  means,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  Little  Blackfoot  valley,  to 
make  a  junction  with  a  road  from  Council  Bluffs.  This  connexion  is  indicated  on  the  map.  The 
mountains  shutting  down  on  the  Missouri,  on  both  banks,  to  the  gate  of  the  mountains,  may  pre 
sent  an  earlier  junction  of  the  two  routes.  The  thorough  examination  of  this  route,  and  of  the 
Little  Blackfoot  trails,  with  which  it  connects  almost  immediately  west  of  the  divide,  and  of 
the  Hell  Gate  Pass,  all  three  of  which  have  been  examined  by  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and  the  full 
description  of  which  will  be  found  in  his  reports  herewith  submitted,  will  become  important  should 
a  good  connexion  be  found  through  the  Black  Hills  with  the  roads  moving  westward  through 
Iowa  and  Missouri ;  or,  should  it  be  found  practicable,  through  the  same  hills  to  make  a  straighter 
route  from  the  Bois  des  Sioux  than  that  north  of  the  Missouri. 

The  southern  of  the  Little  Blackfoot  routes  is  singularly  direct,  and,  in  common  with  the  Hell 
Gate  route  and  northern  Little  Blackfoot,  requires  little  or  no  labor  to  make  it  practicable  for 


100  ROCKY   MOUNTAIN   PASSES. 

wagons.  A  wagon  can  now,  it  is  reported  by  Lieut.  Mullan,  be  taken  through  the  Hell  Gate 
and  the  southern  Little  Black  foot  passes. 

The  two  passes  of  the  Big  Blackfbot  trail  are  both  practicable  and  have  good  approaches.  The 
divide  of  this  pass  is  a  narrow  and  sharp  ridge,  at  whose  opposite  bases,  2  J  miles  apart,  head  small 
tributaries  of  Beaver  creek  in  the  east,  and  Blackfoot  river  in  the  west. 

Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass  connects  the  headwaters  of  Dearborn  and  Blackfoot  rivers,  and  but 
a  few  miles  north  of  Cadotte's  Pass  at  the  sources  of  other  branches  of  the  same  two  rivers. 
The  summit  rid^e  has  here  an  elevation  of  6,323  feet,  in  a  narrow  and  sharp  ridge,  at  whose 
opposite  bases,  2$  miles  apart,  head  small  tributaries  of  Beaver  creek  in  the  east,  and  Blackfoot 
river  in  the  west. 

The  pass  involves  a  tunnel  of  two  and  a  half  miles,  grades  of  approach  of  forty  feet  to  the 
mile,  and  grades  descending  into  the  valley  of  not  exceeding  fifty  feet.  Cadotte's  Pass  requires 
a  tunnel  of  four  and  a  quarter  miles  at  an  elevation  of  about  5,000  feet  above  the  sea.  The  grades 
approaching  it  from  the  east  will  be  sixty  feet,  and  those  from  the  west  forty  feet. 

This  pass  connects  a  tributary  of  Dearborn  river  in  the  east,  with  a  tributary  of  the  Blackfoot 
river  in  the  west.  From  the  foot  of  the  divide  in  the  east  a  small  tributary  falls  off  with  a  rapid 
descent  of  over  one  hundred  feet  to  the  mile.  On  either  side  of  the  brook  are  high  wooded  hills 
making  up  into  the  mass  of  wooded  mountains.  The  approach  to  the  pass  is  on  the  side-hills 
to  the  north  of  the  brook.  Between  the  pass  and  the  plains  are  the  tributaries  of  Beaver  creek, 
rapid  mountain  streams  flowing  in  deep  ravines.  The  summit  is  a  narrow  sharp  ridge,  about 
one  and  a  half  mile  between  its  opposite  bases,  and  is  only  partially  covered  with  a  small-size 
growth  of  trees.  The  western  base  is  some  five  hundred  feet  higher  than  its  opposite,  and  the 
least  descent,  like  that  of  the  east,  is  for  a  short  distance  very  rapid,  favoring  the  use  of  a  tunnel. 
Both  passes  will,  on  the  map,  be  represented  as  practicable,  but  that  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  will 
be  adopted  in  the  railroad  estimate.  For  full  details  in  relation  to  these  entrances  I  will  refer 
you  to  the  report  of  Lieut.  Donelson  and  the  sub-reports  of  Messrs.  Lander  and  Tinkham. 

It  is  proper  here  to  observe  that  the  railroad  line  was  not  carried  down  the  entire  distance 
from  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass  to  its  connexion  with  the  line  from  the  pass  in  the  Blackfoot  trail  by 
Mr.  Lander;  a  link  of  about  four  and  a  half  miles  is  wanting.  As  regards  the  former,  it  is  estab 
lished  that  it  can  be  approached  by  a  grade  of  forty  feet,  that  the  mountain  can  be  pierced  by  a 
tunnel  2.59  miles  in  length,  and  that  for  seven  and  a  half  miles  the  general  inclination  of  the 
valley  is  forty  to  fifty  feet  per  mile.  The  connexion  has  not  been  made,  though  believed  to  be 
practicable  at  a  grade  not  exceeding  fifty  feet  per  mile.  Should  this  be  established  by  subse 
quent  examinations,  it  will  prove  the  preferable  route.  I  have  shown  on  the  sketch  a  comparison 
of  the  two  routes,  in  which  I  indicate  the  portion  not  examined  on  the  route  pursued  by  Mr. 
Lander. 

In  the  Blackfoot  trail  the  grades  will  vary  from  thirty-five  to  forty-five  feet  per  mile.  There  is 
a  somewhat  narrow  gorge,  ending  in  Hell  Gate,  extending  some  twenty  miles,  of  which  the  work 
will  be  expensive,  but  the  grades  will  be  light,  and  no  sharp  curvature. 

From  Hell  Gate  the  road  can  run  in  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  river  to  Clark's  fork,  or, 
by  crossing  a  divide,  Clark's  fork  can  be  reached  by  the  valley  of  the  Jocko  river.  The 
valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  will  involve  several  heavy  bridge  crossings,  some  sharp  curvatures, 
but  no  grade  exceeding  fifty  feet,  and  few  approaching  forty. 

Barometrical  observations  were  not  made  by  Mr.  Lander  in  going  down  the  Bitter  Root  val 
ley,  but  it  is  believed  no  difficulty  will  exist  as  to  grades.  The  fall  of  the  river  from  Lieut. 
Donelson's  camp,  on  the  Bitter  Root,  of  October  5th  and  6th,  to  Horse  Plain,  is  eight  hundred 
feet,  and  the  distance  seventy-two  miles,  and  gives,  on  the  supposition  of  a  uniform  grade,  11-,-^ 
feet  to  the  mile.  By  reference  to  Dr.  Buckley's  report  it  will  be  seen  that  he  made  the  whole 
distance  with  boats,  meeting  no  rapids  that  interfered  with  the  navigation  of  the  river,  and  his 
observations  in  reference  to  its  practicability  for  a  railroad  confirm  the  opinion  of  Mr.  Lander, 


ROCKY  MOUNTAIN    PASSES.  101 

in  whose  judgment  and  experience  I  place  great  confidence.  The  route  will  be  long,  in  conse 
quence  of  the  curves  of  the  river,  and  will  involve  curves  of  the  minimum  radius,  numerous  bridge 
crossings,  considerable  side-cutting,  and  high  embankments  on  the  prairie  portions  in  consequence 
of  the  spring  freshets.  The  rock  in  side-cuttings  can  be  easily  quarried.  The  greater  portion 
of  this  route  has  been  personally  examined  by  me,  and  I  am  satisfied  of  its  practicability,  though 
at  great  expense. 

The  divide  of  the  Jocko,  though  five  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  Hell  Gate,  is  entirely 
practicable.  To  overcome  the  summit  the  approach  may  require  a  grade  of  fifty  feet,  and  the 
descent  a  grade  of  sixty  feet ;  both,  however,  for  short  distances,  with  heavy  embankments  and 
probably  a  lofty  bridge.  Farther  down  the  valley  is  open  and  easy,  and  the  grades  do  not 
exceed  twenty  feet.  There  are  no  short  curvatures.  Lieut.  Donelson  is  of  opinion  that  these 
grades  may  be  reduced  to  forty-five  and  forty  feet. 

The  distance  to  Horse  Plain  from  Hell  Gate  by  the  two  routes  is  136  miles  by  the  Jocko, 
and  143  miles  by  the  Bitter  Root,  giving  seven  miles  in  favor  of  the  former  route.  It  is  probable 
that  the  greater  amount  of  curvature  on  the  Bitter  Root  would  be  at  least  as  serious  a  difficulty 
a^  the  greater  grades  of  the  Jocko.  The  cost  of  the  Jocko  will  probably  be  some  half  a  million 
of  dollars  less  than  that  of  the  Bitter  Root. 

Tt  is  probable  that  a  better  connexion  than  either  of  these  could  be  made  by  leaving  the 
Blackfoot  trail  some  distance  before  entering  the  defile,  passing  over  a  low  divide,  and  pursuing 
the  valley  of  one  or  two  streams  which  flow  into  Clark's  fork.  One  of  these  streams  is  probably 
a  tributary  of  the  Jocko  river.  Enough  is  known  of  the  country  through  an  exploration  made 
by  Mr.  Tinkham,  under  the  direction  of  Lieutenant  Donelson,  to  make  it  probable  that  the 
grades  will  not  exceed  forty  feet,  and  that  the  curves  and  expensive  embankments,  and  sustaining 
walls  of  the  defile  ending  in  Hell  Gate,  and  of  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  and  the  high  grades  of  the 
Jocko  route,  will  thus  be  avoided.  The  route  is  indicated  by  dotted  lines  on  the  sketch,  and 
should  be  carefully  examined  in  subsequent  surveys.  By  referring  to  Mr.  Tinkham's  route,  as 
shown  on  the  map  and  explained  in  his  report,  it  will  be  seen  that  he  observed  ah1  but  a  few 
miles  of  both  routes,  and  that  the  connexion  is  almost  certain. 

I  will  observe,  however,  that  the  examinations  of  this  mountain  range,  whilst  they  have  been 
exceedingly  satisfactory,  and  have  established  the  practicability  of  a  railroad  route  through  them, 
are  by  no  means  complete. 

It  is  not  doubted  there  are  other  passes  in  this  portion  of  the  Rocky  mountain  range  even  better 
than  those  explored;  they  are  indicated  by  the  general  depression  of  the  mountain  range,  with  the 
greater  frequency  of  the  streams  stretching  out  to  meet  each  other  from  the  opposite  slopes  of  the 
mountains;  and  I  consider  it  important  that,  in  future  operations,  a  whole  season  should  be 
directed  to  their  thorough  examination,  and  that  instrumental  surveys  should  be  made  of  the 
pass  found  to  be  the  most  practicable. 

In  the  construction  of  the  road  through  the  Rocky  mountains,  there  will  be  a  scarcity  of  wood 
and  water  in  the  approach  from  Milk  river,  which  can  be  remedied  by  bringing  water  in  aque 
ducts  from  Grizzly  Bear  lake,  and  wood  from  the  Rocky  mountains,  which  furnish  an  inexhaust 
ible  supply. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

General  Geographical  Description  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  Region. 

Entering  the  mountains  on  the  eastern  side  are  the  tributaries  of  Marias,  Teton,  Sun,  Dearborn, 
and  Jefferson  rivers;  the  latter,  one  of  the  principal  forks  of  the  Missouri  river.  On  the  west  the 
rivers  Clark's  Fork  of  the  Columbia,  Blackfoot  and  Hell  Gate  forks,  together  with  that  branch  of 
Bitter  Root  river  retaining  its  name,  and  the  tributaries  of  the  Snake  river,  are  the  principal 
streams,  whose  valleys  cut  the  mountains  in  transverse  ranges,  and  whose  sources  are  separated 
from  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri  tributaries  by  ridges  one  to  three  miles  in  width,  and  rising 
from  five  hundred  to  two  thousand  feet  above  the  running  wrater  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the 
summit. 

Excepting  the  rocky  and  rugged  peaks  and  ridges  of  unusual  elevation,  the  mountain  slopes  are 
covered  with  wood,  consisting  of  the  different  varieties  of  pine,  (generally  a  species  of  yellow 
pine,)  firs  and  spruces,  a  small  proportion  of  white  cedars,  and  occasionally  an  intermingling  of 
the  white  birch.  In  the  bottoms  of  the  streams  is  found  the  bitter  cotton-wood.  The  pines,  and 
especially  the  pines  of  the  valleys,  will  afford  much  superior  lumber,  and,  as  found  in  the  bottom 
lands  of  streams,  and  in  the  lower  and  easier  mountain  slopes,  are  tall  and  straight,  and  have 
a  diameter  of  about  three  feet,  arid  a  height  of  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  forty  feet. 

The  streams  intruding  into  these  wooded  regions  have  in  them  a  considerable  amount  of  open 
and  grassed  lands.  The  valleys  of  the  smaller  tributaries  of  Clark's  fork  are  generally  wooded 
until  within  a  short  distance  of  Flathead  lake;  both  the  Big  and  Little  Blackfoot  Fork  valleys  are 
wooded,  but  their  bottoms  contain  many  extensive  and  handsome  prairies.  Hell  Gate  fork  has  a 
growth  of  heavy  pine  and  fir  on  the  bordering  hills,  and  an  extensive  prairie  valley  of  eight  hun 
dred  to  one  thousand  square  miles.  St.  Mary's  river  has  a  handsome,  open  valley,  six  or  eight 
miles  wide,  of  even  greater  extent,  and,  in  connexion  with  all  the  streams,  is  sufficiently  supplied 
with  pine  and  cotton-wood  for  the  purpose  of  settlement.  That  portion  of  the  Snake  River 
valley  explored  was  found  to  be  destitute  of  timber,  excepting  in  some  places  where  the  supply 
was  good.  The  valley  is  generally  very  scanty  in  vegetation,  almost  the  only  growth  being  the 
wild  sage.  The  valley  for  hundreds  of  miles  is  covered  with  beds  of  volcanic  rock.  Clark's 
fork  has  an  open,  wide  valley,  extending  to  the  Flathead  lake,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  temporary 
Britisli  trading  post,  about  twenty  miles  south  of  the  lake,  is  connected  with  several  other  smooth 
and  fertile  valleys,  extending  southeasterly  into  the  mountains.  All  of  these  bottom-lands  have 
a  fertile,  although  sometimes  a  gravelly  or  stony  soil,  and  touch  upon  forests  abundantly  supplied 
with  valuable  pine  lumber.  At  the  head  and  foot  of  the  Flathead  lake  are  open  prairies,  with 
good  soil,  and  possessing  the  resources  for  a  delightful  farming  location.  The  east  and  west  sides 
of  this  beautiful  lake  are  hilly  and  wooded ;  the  eastern  side  thinly  timbered. 

All  these  open  lands  are  covered  with  an  abundance  of  grass,  and  afford  excellent  pasturage  for 
horses  and  cattle  throughout  the  year. 

Between  the  headwaters  of  the  Bitter  Root  and  the  Snake  river  the  mountains  are  formed  into 
low  ridges,  between  which  intervene  valleys  rich  in  grass  and  watered  by  mountain  streams,  and 
affording  fairest  grazing  lands  for  the  Indians  with  their  large  bands  of  horses. 

The  country  is  abundantly  watered  with  clear  mountain  streams,  with  pebbly  beds;  and  lake 
and  stream  abound  with  fish. 


GEOGRAPHICAL   DESCRIPTION   OF  ROCKY   MOUNTAINS   REGION.  103 

Trap  rock,  in  its  different  forms,  is  the  principal  geological  formation  from  the  divide  separating 
the  waters  of  Snake  river  from  those  of  the  three  forks  of  the  Missouri  to  Fort  Hall,  and  lime 
stone,  occasionally  intermingled  with  trap,  thence  northward  to  the  limits  of  the  survey.  Granite 
discovers  itself  in  the  southern  portion  of  the  survey,  and  elsewhere.  A  very  superior  limestone, 
suitable  as  a  building-stone  and  for  the  manufacture  of  lime,  exists  in  the  mountain  range  east 
and  north  from  the  British  trading  post  already  referred  to,  and  undoubtedly  exists  elsewhere 
in  large  quantities. 

A  belt  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  mountains,  including  the  valleys  of  the  streams,  possesses 
much  the  same  characteristics  of  soil  as  already  noticed  on  the  western  slopes,  but  has  less 
advantages  for  lumbering,  and  has  a  colder  climate.  This  fertile  strip  gradually  passes  into 
the  Grand  Prairie  country,  and,  on  leaving  the  vicinity  of  the  mountains,  the  soil  gradually 
becomes  more  thin,  except  in  the  numerous  broad  river  valleys,  as  those  of  the  High  Wood,  the 
Judith,  the  Muscle  Shell,  &c.,  &c.  The  pines  end  with  the  mountains,  and  the  only  trees  are 
found  in  the  growth  of  cotton-wood  lining  the  streams.  Immediately  under  the  mountains  is  a 
region  capable  of  profitable  tillage,  and  with  unlimited  pasturage,  delightful  in  summer,  and 
though  colder  than  the  western  valleys,  is  still  milder  than  the  climate  of  the  plains  still  farther  to 
the  east. 

I  estimate  that  in  the  valleys  on  the  western  slopes  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  extending 
no  farther  west  than  the  Bitter  Root  range  of  mountains,  there  may  be  some  6,000  square  miles 
of  arable  land,  open  grassed  lands  with  good  soils,  and  already  prepared  for  occupation  and 
settlement;  and  that,  in  addition  to  this  amount,  there  are  valleys  having  good  soils,  and  favora 
ble  for  settlement,  which  will  be  cleared  in  the  removal  of  lumber  from  them.  The  faint 
attempts  made  by  the  Indians  at  cultivating  the  soil  have  been  attended  with  good  success,  and 
fair  returns  might  be  expected  of  all  such  crops  as  are  adapted  to  the  northern  States  of  our 
country.  The  pasturage  grounds  are  unsurpassed.  The  extensive  bands  of  horses  owned  by 
the  Flathead  Indians  occupying  St.  Mary's  village,  on  Bitter  Root  river,  thrive  well  winter 
and  summer.  One  hundred  horses  belonging  to  the  exploration  are  wintered  in  this  valley, 
and  up  to  the  9th  of  March  the  grass  was  fine,  but  little  snow  had  fallen,  and  the  weather  was 
mild.  The  oxen  and  cows  owned  here  by  the  half-breeds  and  Indians  obtain  good  feed  and 
are  in  good  condition. 

Probably  4,000  square  miles  of  tillable  land  is  to  be  found  immediately  on  the  eastern  slopes, 
and  the  bottoms  of  the  different  streams,  retaining  their  fertility  for  some  distance  after  leaving 
the  mountains,  will  considerably  increase  this  amount.  There  is  a  marked  difference  of  climate 
between  the  two  sides,  and  the  comparison  of  the  meteorological  results  of  the  winter  posts  estab 
lished — one  at  Fort  Benton,  on  the  Missouri,  and  the  other  near  St.  Mary's  village,  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  mountains — will  be  of  great  interest,  as  determining  with  some  definiteness  the  extent 
of  this  difference.  The  question  of  climate  •will  be  considered  more  fully  hereafter. 

To  bring  out  more  clearly  the  character  of  the  mountain  region,  I  will,  at  the  risk  of  some 
repetition,  quote  from  Lieutenant  Mullan's  report  of  his  exploration  to  Fort  Hall: 

"Thus  we  found  ourselves  at  the  main  camp  after  an  absence  of  forty-five  days,  during  which 
time  we  had  crossed  the  mountains  four  times,  completely  turning  the  eastern  portion  of  the 
Bitter  Root  range,  by  a  line  of  seven  hundred  miles,  experiencing  a  complete  change  of  climate, 
and  crossing  two  sections  of  country,  different  in  soil,  formation,  natural  features,  capability,  and 
general  character;  crossing,  therefore,  in  all  their  ramifications,  the  headwaters  of  the  two  great 
rivers,  Missouri  and  Columbia.  We  had  now  a  fine  opportunity  to  compare  the  climate  and 
character  of  the  Bitter  Root  valley  with  that  of  the  Hell  Gate  and  others  in  its  vicinity.  In  the 
latter,  snow  from  four  to  six  inches  deep  was  to  be  found,  while  in  the  former  the  ground  was 
perfectly  free  from  snow.  It  seemed  as  if  we  had  entered  an  entirely  different  region  and 
different  climate;  the  Bitter  Root  valley  thus  proving  that  it  well  merits  the  name  of  the  valley 
of  perennial  spring.  The  fact  of  the  exceedingly  mild  winters  in  this  valley  has  been  noticed 


104  BITTER   ROOT   VALLEY. 

and  remarked  by  every  one  who  has  ever  been  in  it  during  the  winter  season  ;  thus  affording 
an  excellent  rendezvous  and  recruiting  station  for  the  Indians  in  its  vicinity,  and  of  those  sojourn 
ing  in  it,  as  well  as  all  others  that  might  be  overtaken  by  the  cold  or  snow  of  the  mountains. 
It  is  the  home  of  the  Flathead  Indians,  where,  through  the  instrumentality  and  exertions  of 
the  Jesuit  priests,  they  have  built  up  a  village — not  of  lodges,  but  of  houses — where  they  repair 
every  winter ;  and  with  this  valley,  covered  with  an  abundance  of  rich  and  nutritious  grass, 
affording  to  their  large  bands  of  horses  grazing  and  to  spare,  they  live  as  contentedly  and  as 
happily  as  probably  any  tribe  of  Indians  either  east  or  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  Its  capa 
bilities  in  other  respects,  aside  from  grazing,  have  already  been  referred  to  in  the  former  part 
of  this  report,  and  are  of  sufficient  interest  and  importance  to  attract  the  attention  of,  and  hold 
out  inducements  to  settlers  and  others.  All  that  it  at  present  needs  is,  to  have  some  direct  con 
nexion  with  the  East  or  the  West,  and  the  advantages  that  it  and  the  sections  in  its  vicinity 
possess,  will  be  of  sufficient  importance  to  necessarily  command  attention.  The  numerous 
mountain  rivulets,  tributaries  to  the  Bitter  Root  river,  that  run  through  the  valley,  afford  excellent 
and  abundant  mill-sites ;  and  the  land  bordering  these  streams  is  fertile  and  productive,  and 
has  been  proved,  beyond  a  cavil  or  doubt,  to  be  well  suited  to  every  branch  of  agriculture. 
I  have  seen  oats  grown  in  this  valley  by  Mr.  John  Owen,  that  are  as  heavy  and  as  excellent  as 
any  that  I  have  ever  seen  in  the  States  ;  and  the  same  gentleman  has  informed  me  that  he  has 
grown  most  excellent  wheat,  and  that,  from  his  experience  while  in  the  mountains,  he  hesitates 
not  in  saying,  that  here  might  agriculture  be  carried  on  in  its  numerous  branches,  and  to  the 
exceeding  great  interest  and  gain  of  those  engaged  in  it.  The  valley  and  mountain-slopes  are 
well  timbered  with  an  excellent  growth  of  pine,  which  is  equal  in  every  respect  to  the  well  known 
and  noted  pine  of  Oregon.  The  advantages,  therefore,  possessed  by  this  section,  are  of  great 
importance,  and  offer  peculiar  inducements  to  the  settler.  Its  valley  is  not  only  capable  of 
grazing  immense  bands  of  stock  of  every  kind,  but  is  also  capable  of  supporting  a  dense  popula 
tion.  The  mountain  slopes  on  either  side  of  the  valley,  and  the  land  along  the  base  of  the  mount 
ains,  afford  at  all  seasons,  even  during  the  most  severe  winters,  grazing  ground  in  abundance, 
while  the  mountains  are  covered  with  a  beautiful  growth  of  pine.  The  provisions  of  nature 
here,  are,  therefore,  on  no  small  scale,  and  of  no  small  importance;  and  let  those  who  have 
imagined — and  some  have  been  so  bold  as  to  say  it — that  there  exists  only  one  immense  bed  of 
mountains  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri  to  the  Cascade  range,  turn  their  attention  to  this 
section,  and  let  them  contemplate  its  advantages  and  resources,  and  ask  themselves,  since  these 
things  exist,  can  it  be  long  before  public  attention  shall  be  attracted  and  fastened  upon  this 
hitherto  unknown  and  neglected  region  ?  Can  it  be  that  we  should  have  so  near  our  Pacific  coast 
a  section  of  country  of  hundreds  of  thousands  of  acres  that  will  remain  forever  untilled,  unculti 
vated,  totally  neglected?  It  cannot  be.  But  let  a  connexion,  and  that  the  most  direct,  be  made 
between  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  Pacific — and  it  can  be  done — and  soon 
will  these  advantages  necessarily  thrust  themselves  upon  public  attention,  and  open  to  the  indus 
trious  and  persevering,  avenues  to  wealth  and  power.  Again,  this  section  connects  with  another 
of  equal  if  not  superior  importance,  that  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  country,  which  again  connects, 
directly,  by  a  beautiful  section,  with  the  country  at  and  near  Wallah-Wallah  ;  thus  showing  that 
from  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  we  possess  a  rich, 
fertile,  and  productive  area,  that  needs  but  the  proper  means  and  measures  to  be  put  forth,  and 
manfully  employed,  to  be  turned  to  private  and  public  benefit."  *  *  *  "  Looking  back  upon 
our  route,  we  saw  we  had  followed  Bitter  Root  river  to  its  head,  which  we  found  from  its  mouth 
to  be  ninety-five  miles  long,  flowing  through  a  wide  and  beautiful  valley,  whose  soil  is  fertile  and 
productive,  well  timbered  with  the  pine  and  cotton-wood,  but  whose  chief  characteristic  and 
capability  is  that  of  grazing  large  herds  of  cattle,  and  affording  excellent-mill  sites  along  the 
numerous  streams  flowing  from  the  mountains.  The  country  thence  is  watered  by  tributaries  to 
the  Missouri  and  its  forks,  to  the  range  of  mountains  separating  these  waters  from  those  of  the 


GEOGRAPHICAL    DESCRIPTION   OP   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS   REGION.  105 

Snake  river,  or  the  south  branch  of  Lewis'  fork  of  the  Columbia,  and  is  also  fertile,  but  its  char 
acteristic  feature  is  the  great  scarcity  of  timber  for  any  purpose,  the  willow  and  wild  sage  beino- 
used  for  fuel  along  the  whole  route.  The  geological  formation  of  this  section  belongs  to  the 
tertiary  period.  The  capability  of  this  broad  area,  however,  for  grazing,  is  excellent.  It  is  a 
great  resort  at  present  for  all  Indians  in  the  mountains,  the  mountains  and  valleys  affording  a 
great  abundance  of  game,  consisting  of  elk,  bear,  deer,  and  antelope,  while  the  numerous  rivers 
and  streams  abound  in  fish  and  beaver.  The  latter  are  still  caught  in  large  numbers  on  the  head 
waters  and  tributaries  of  the  Missouri,  but  are  not  so  anxiously  sought  after  as  years  back, 
owing  to  the  great  depreciation  of  value  in  the  market  east.  The  whole  country  is  formed  of  a 
series  of  beds  of  mountainous  ranges  or  ridges,  with  their  intervening  valleys,  all  of  which  are 
well  defined  and  marked,  the  decomposition  and  washings  of  the  rocks  of  the  mountains  giving 
character  to  the  soil  of  the  valleys,  which  may  be  termed,  as  a  general  thing,  fertile.  The 
geological  formations  along  the  Jefferson  fork  and  its  principal  tributaries  are  limestone  and  con 
glomerate  rock.  From  the  range  called  the  Snake  River  divide,  the  whole  character  of  the  country 
is  completely  changed.  Here  the  geological  formation  is  basaltic  and  volcanic  principally.  None 
of  the  numerous  streams  and  rivulets  flowing  from  the  mountains  along  the  route  we  travelled 
emptied  into  the  Snake  river,  but  either  sunk  into  the  ground  or  formed  small  lakes  in  the  broad 
valley  of  Snake  river.  The  ground  in  most  places  is  formed  principally  of  sand ;  and  where 
large  beds  of  basalt  are  not  found,  the  ground  is  of  a  dry,  absorbing  nature,  through  which  the 
water  sinks,  at  times  bursting  out  again.  It  was  somewhat  singular  that  for  sixty  miles  above 
Fort  Hall,  along  the  main  stream  of  Snake  river,  we  did  not  cross  but  one  tributary,  and  that 
coming  in  from  the  south,  while  none  came  in  from  the  north ;  all  of  the  streams,  as  before  men 
tioned,  either  forming  lakes  or  sinking  into  the  ground.  This  section  is  also  noted  for  the  great 
scarcity  of  timber,  and  the  immense  plains  of  wild  sage  ;  which  is  so  abundant,  that  it  merits  the 
name  of  the  sage  desert  of  the  mountains.  It  extends  for  many  miles  in  length  and  breadth,  form 
ing  an  immense  ocean  of  prairie,  whose  sameness  is  only  broken  by  the  '  Three  Buttes'  of  the 
valley,  which  rise  like  islands  in  the  sea  in  this  broad  and  barren  area.  Its  whole  character 
might  be  included  in  the  word  sterility.  From  the  mountains  bounding  the  Snake  River  valley 
on  the  north  to  Fort  Hall,  a  travelled  distance  of  one  hundred  and  twelve  miles,  there  is  but 
one  fertile  spot  of  ground  that  could  be  converted  to  any  useful  purpose,  and  this  is  found  at 
Cantonment  Loring,  five  miles  above  Fort  Hall.  Here  the  soil  is  of  a  grayish-blue  clay  and 
sand,  that  might  be  made  use  of  for  agricultural  purposes.  The  grazing  here  is  most  excellent. 
To  our  return  route  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  which  lay  to  the  east  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains 
from  the  Snake  river,  to  the  ridge  separating  the  waters  of  Wisdom  river,  or  the  Big  Hole  fork 
of  the  Jefferson  river,  from  those  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  the  same  general  remarks  will  apply 
as  those  describing  the  country  from  the  head  of  the  Bitter  Root  river  to  Fort  Hall — a  series 
of  mountain  ranges,  giving  beautiful  prairie  valleys,  through  which  wind  streams  from  the 
mountain  slopes  that  pour  their  tribute  into  the  Missouri  and  its  forks.  Leaving  the  ridges 
referred  to,  you  again  enter  a  different  and  milder  region,  through  which  flow  tributaries  to  the 
Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia.  Here  the  soil  is  a  rich  loam,  timber  is  abundant,  and  climate 
exceedingly  mild  even  during  the  severest  winter.  We  enteied  it  on  the  1st  of  January,  and 
snow  scarcely  covering  the  ground  was  to  be  found  in  the 'valley.  This  section  connects  with 
the  Bitter  Root  valley.  We  thence  followed  down  the  Hell  Gate  river,  from  its  head  to  where  it 
debouches  from  the  mountains  five  miles  above  its  mouth;  which  we  found  to  be  one  hundred 
and  twenty  miles  long,  flowing  through  a  fertile,  well-timbered  valley,  from  two  to  five  miles 
wide,  bounded  on  each  side  by  high  pine-clad  mountains.  Game  is  found  in  great  abundance  in 
these  mountains,  being  principally  elk  and  bear. 

"A  detailed  description  of  each  portion  of  the  route  having  already  been  given,  I  only  deem 
it  necessary  to  say  that  both  routes  travelled  are  perfectly  practicable  for  wagons,  but  the  return 
route  is  by  far  the  better  of  the  two,  though  from  sixty  to  eighty  miles  the  longer." 


106  GEOGRAPHICAL   DESCRIPTION   OF   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS   REGION. 

The  general  character  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  its  valley,  and  the  adjacent  mountain  slopes,  has 
been  stated.  Two  routes  leading  from  this  river  to  Fort  Benton  were  examined  by  Lieutenant 
Mullan  in  the  month  of  March,  1854:  one  along  the  Little  Blackfoot  and  its  south  fork,  across 
the  mountains  to  the  Missouri,  and  thence  along  the  bluffs  or  the  banks  of  that  river  to  Fort  Ben- 
ton  ;  and  the  other  leading  up  the  north  fork  of  the  Little  Blackfoot  and  to  Fort  Benton,  north 
of  the  Missouri,  and  on  the  prairies  between  that  stream  and  the  route  pursued  by  the  main  party 
of  the  exploration  in  September,  1853.  At  the  forks  of  the  Little  Blackfoot,  Lieutenant  Mullan 
found  the  snow  in  March  ten  inches  deep.  The  bluffs  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  alluded  to 
above,  may  be  considered  as  extending  from  a  point  thirty  miles  above  the  falls  to  near  the  three 
forlcs  of  that  river.  They  may  be  described  as  formidable  mountain  spurs,  extending  along  the 
Missouri  for  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and  being  fifteen  miles  wide,  the  principal  form 
ations  consisting  of  granite,  the  growth  being  an  abundance  of  the  large  species  of  pine ;  and 
these  characteristics,  together  with  the  fact  that  it  was  exceedingly  difficult  for  a  pack  train  to  pass 
through  these  spurs,  indicated  that  here  a  route  from  east  to  west,  either  for  a  rail  or  wagon 
road,  must  be  sought  at  a  greater  distance  from  the  Missouri.  This  river  flows  through  these  spurs 
in  what  is  called  by  Lewis  and  Clark  the  "Gate  of  the  Mountains."  It  has  here  a  rapid  current, 
and  is,  in  places,  very  deep  and  narrow.  Lieutenant  Mullan  arrived  at  Fort  Benton  on  the  morn 
ing  of  the  14th,  and  started  on  his  return  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley  on  that  of  the  17th  of  March, 
carrying  with  him  a  wagon  drawn  by  four  mules.  He  arrived  at  the  St.  Mary's  village  on  the 
30th  of  March.  The  principal  facts  of  the  geography  of  the  country  which  were  developed  by 
Lieutenant  Mullan  during  this  tour  are  as  follows :  First,  as  to  the  climate,  he  crossed  those 
mountains  at  a  time  when  it  has  been  hitherto  thought  impracticable  to  travel ;  found,  in  the  begin 
ning  of  March,  ten  inches  of  snow  at  the  forks  of  the  Little  Blackfoot;  no  snow  east  of  the  mount 
ains  ;  and  on  his  return,  in  the  latter  part  of  March,  found  no  snow  at  all  on  the  route ;  and  he  had 
good  grass  throughout  the  journey  for  his  animals.  Second,  as  to  the  facility  of  communication, 
he  found  plenty  of  wood  and  water,  but  an  indifferent  route  even  for  a  pack-train  in  going  to 
Fort  Benton,  and  in  returning  he  passed  over  a  country  which  was  favorable  for  a  wagon  road, 
and  which  presented  a  very  fine  approach  to  the  mountains  for  a  railroad ;  and  the  divide,  where 
he  crossed  it,  being  a  low  ridge,  with  an  almost  imperceptible  ascent  and  descent.  All  these 
facts  will  give  this  one  a  favorable  place,  when  considered  in  competition  for  a  railroad  route 
with  the  others  examined. 

For  detailed  information  in  regard  to  the  general  character  of  the  mountain  region,  I  will  refer 
you  to  the  sub-reports  of  Lieutenant  Mullan,  G  No.  23,  G  No.  24,  G  No.  25;  of  Lieutenant 
Donelson,  F  No.  18;  of  Mr.  Tinkham,  F  No.  19;  of  Dr.  John  Evans,  F  No.  20. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

General  Characteristics  of  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  and  Navigability  of  the 

Columbia  River. 

In  reference  to  the  Cascade  mountains,  the  geography  of  this  whole  range  has  been  repre 
sented  very  inaccurately  on  all  existing  maps.  The  region  between  the  Cceur  d'Alene  and  the 
Cascade  mountains  may  be  described  as  follows : 

It  extends  with  an  average  of  over  200  miles  between  these  two  ranges ;  and  from  the  Blue  mount 
ains,  at  the  sources  of  the  John  Day  river,  Umatilla,  and  the  southern  tributaries  of  the  Wallah- 
Wallah  river,  to  the  Kootenaies  mountains,  north  of  Clark's  fork,  is  marked  by  the  Columbia  and 
its  principal  tributaries — Clark's  fork  or  Flathead,  and  Lewis  or  Snake  river.  The  general 
course  of  the  Columbia  is  north  and  south,  with  two  large  bends — one  to  the  westward  from  Fort 
Okinakane,  and  the  other  to  the  eastward,  approaching  Wallah- Wallah.  The  Spokane  river  is  the 
principal  remaining  tributary  on  the  east,  and  the  Yakima  the  most  important  one  on  the  west  of 
the  river.  The  Yakima  and  its  tributaries  lead  to  the  only  two  passes  of  the  Cascades  that  can 
well  be  availed  of  for  wagon  roads,  and  one  of  which — the  Snoqualme  Pass — having  two  routes 
over  the  divide,  will  probably  furnish  a  feasible  railroad  route. 

North  of  the  Spokane  river,  and  for  a  few  miles  south  of  it,  the  country  is  well  timbered 
and  well  watered,  with  many  fertile  prairies  and  valleys.  The  valleys  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  and 
Spokane  rivers,  the  valley  extending  from  the  Spokane  to  Colville,  the  Coeur  d'Alene  prairie, 
and  the  country  generally  between  the  Cceur  d'Alene  and  Pend  d'Oreille  lakes,  are  well  adapted 
to  grazing  and  agriculture.  The  Flat  Bow  river,  whose  general  course  is  parallel  to  that  of  the 
Flathead  river,  or  Clark's  fork,  makes  a  re-entering  into  our  territory  nearly  to  48°  30',  has  much 
good  land  on  its  banks,  and  the  country  between  it  and  the  Flathead  lake  is  generally  prairie,  the 
divide  being  low.  One  of  the  routes  from  the  Flathead  lake  to  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake  is  by  the 
southern  bend  of  the  Flat  Bow  river. 

I  have  denominated  the  prairie  region,  between  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains  and  the  Cas 
cades,  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia.  The  formation  of  the  central  and  western  portions  is 
trap,  and  it  presents  great  variety  of  surface  and  character,  from  fertile  and  well-watered  valleys 
to  desert  sage  plains,  and  from  gently  undulating  waves  of  vegetation  to  basaltic  columns,  deep 
canons,  and  the  various  outcroppings  observed  in  such  formations.  The  Cceur  d'Alene  mount 
ains  are  a  vast  mass  of  limestone,  and  the  valleys  on  its  western  slope  are  rich  and  inviting. 
Thus,  on  the  Kooskooskia  there  is  a  fine  agricultural  and  grazing  region,  and  in  December  Mr. 
Tinkham  found  the  grass  perfectly  green,  peas  up,  and  flowers  in  blossom.  So  of  the  several 
tributaries  flowing  into  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake.  The  St.  Joseph's,  the  most  southern  tributary, 
and  which  probably  furnishes  a  route  across  the  mountains  better  than  the  Cceur  d'Alene  or 
either  of  the  Nez  Perces  trails,  and  which  it  is  said  can  be  made  practicable  for  wagons  at  very 
small  expense,  has  many  large  and  extensive  prairies,  and  the  whole  region  westward  to  the 
route  pursued  by  the  main  party  is  profusely  watered,  and  well  adapted  to  grazing.  Indeed,  for 
the  entire  region  east  of  the  Columbia,  the  country,  with  a  few  exceptions,  as  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Grand  Coulee,  along  certain  portions  of  the  Snake  and  Peluse  rivers,  may  be  called  a  good 
grazing  country,  and  on  no  route  pursued  by  voyageurs,  by  Indians,  or  by  the  parties  of  my 
exploration,  were  there  long  distances  between  water.  The  longest  distance  made  was  from  the 


108  CHARACTERISTICS   OF    TIIE    GREAT    PLAIN   OF    THE   COLUMBIA. 

Tou-chet  river  to  the  Snake,  twenty-eight  miles ;  yet,  by  a  slight  deflection  to  the  east,  water  can 
be  got  at  shorter  intervals  than  twenty  miles. 

Lewis  or  Snake  river,  after  cutting  out  a  corner  of  Washington  Territory,  turns  southward  into 
Oregon,  leaving,  however,  a  tributary  to  the  eastward — the  Little  Salmon  or  Kooskooskia  river — 
which,  passing  through  the  Nez  Perces  country,  forks  and  affords  two  trails  through  the  Coeur 
d'Alene  mountains,  called  the  northern  and  southern  Nez  Perces  trails. 

In  the  re-entering  formed  by  the  Snake,  whilst  most  of  the  country  between  the  Snake  and 
the  Wallah- Wallah,  along  the  Columbia,  and  for  some  twenty  miles  back,  has  but  little  arable 
land,  there  is  good  though  somewhat  scant  bunch-grass  over  nearly  the  whole  surface,  and  the 
Wallah- Wallah  itself,  with  its  numerous  tributaries,  affords  excellent  arable  and  grazing  land.  It 
has  already  attracted  the  attention  of  emigrants,  and  if  the  Indian  title  were  ever  extinguished,  it 
would  be  rapidly  filled  up. 

The  Spokane  river,  and  its  principal  tributary,  the  Coeur  d'Alene  river,  and  Clark's  fork, 
furnish  the  other  two  trails  through  the  Cceur  d'Alene  range. 

These  four  trails  have  already  been  described,  and  the  route  of  Clark's  fork  indicated  as  the 
most  practicable  one  for  a  railroad  route.  On  this  river  is  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  forty-five 
miles  long,  and  on  the  Coeur  d'Alene  tributary  of  the  Spokane  river,  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake. 
Between  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake  and  the  country  from  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake  to  the  falls  of  the 
Spokane,  the  country  is  favorable,  the  divide  low,  and  feasible  routes  are  afforded  for  passing  from 
Clark's  fork  to  the  Spokane  plain,  and  across  the  Columbia.  This  gives  a  southwestern  direction 
to  the  railroad  route.  Westward,  however,  of  this  favorable  region  of  country,  a  high  range  of 
mountains  extends  across  Clark's  fork,  and  presents  obstacles  to  the  construction  of  the  road 
either  towards  the  mouth  of  Clark's  fork  or  Colville,  though,  as  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the 
report  of  Lieutenant  Arnold,  accompanying  that  of  Lieutenant  Donelson,  a  practicable  route 
probably  exists,  and  could  be  made  use  of  did  the  connexion  west  require  it.  Westward  of  the 
Columbia  river,  at  these  points,  the  country  is  very  rugged,  indeed  impracticable,  and  leads  to 
the  abandonment  of  all  plans  of  reaching  the  passes  of  the  Cascades  in  this  direction. 

From  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mission,  some  miles  above  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake,  there  is  a  good 
wagon  trail  to  Wallah- Wallah.  There  is  also  said  to  be  a  good  wagon  trail  from  the  Pend 
d'Oreille  lake,  keeping  on  its  eastern  and  southern  shore,  to  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mission  and  to 
the  Cceur  d'Alene  river,  and  an  excellent  railroad  route,  which  is  marked  on  the  sketch. 

As  regards  the  great  features  of  the  country  west  of  the  mountains  in  reference  to  its  practi 
cability  for  a  railroad,  viz :  the  Bitter  Root,  Clark's  Fork,  and  Columbia  rivers,  I  will  state  that 
Dr.  Suckley,  the  surgeon  and  naturalist  of  the  eastern  division  of  the  exploration,  left  St.  Mary's 
village  on  the  15th  of  October,  and,  proceeding  down  the  Bitter  Root  and  Clark's  fork,  reached 
Columbia  barracks  on  the  6th  of  December,  making  the  whole  distance,  except  about  sixty  miles 
from  the  Pend  d'Oreille  mission  to  Colville,  by  water.  The  distance  was  1,049  miles,  (esti 
mated,)  the  running  time  285J  hours,  made  in  fifty-three  days,  or  3.67  miles  per  hour.  But  three 
portages  of  magnitude  were  made — one  of  thirteen  hundred  paces  on  Clark's  Fork  river,  above 
the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  one  on  the  Columbia,  at  the  Dalles,  of  eight  hundred  paces,  and  one  at 
the  Cascades,  one  and  a  half  mile  in  length. 

From  Horse  Plain,  at  the  confluence  of  Clark's  fork  and  the  Bitter  Root  river,  the  whole  dis 
tance  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  readily  admits  the  rafting  of  lumber,  and  it  is  probable  that 
logs  can  be  run  to  Horse  Plain  from  the  upper  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  in  the  freshets  of  spring, 
and  from  and  above  the  Flathead  lake,  on  Clark's  fork. 

The  forest  growth  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wenatshapam  can  be 
transported  down  to  any  point  of  the  river  where  it  may  be  needed  for  fuel,  for  buildings,  and 
for  constructions.  Thus,  for  all  practical  purposes  of  railroad  construction,  the  Columbia  through 
out  its  entire  length  may  be  considered  as  bountifully  supplied  with  wood. 

With  reference  to  the  growth  along  its  banks,  I  will  quote  from  the  report  of  Dr.  Suckley: 


NAVIGATION    OF   THE   COLUMBIA    RIVER.  109 

"  While  on  the  subject  of  timber,  I  will  briefly  allude  to  its  quality  and  quantity.  Along  the 
Bitter  Root  and  Hell  Gate  rivers,  and  in  the  mountains  in  their  vicinity,  the  red  pine  and  the 
larch,  favorite  trees  in  ship-building,  are  found  in  great  quantities.  Farther  down  their  streams 
we  find,  in  addition,  cypress,  cedar,  hemlock,  spruce,  and  fir,  besides  several  hard-wood  trees. 
The  timber  country  extends  from  the  main  range  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  a  point  about  80 
miles  below  Fort  Colville.  From  thence  to  the  Dalles  there  is  no  timber.  At  the  Dalles  it  again 
appears,  and  trees  of  many  descriptions,  and  frequently  of  enormous  size,  are  found  thickly 
covering  the  valleys  and  surrounding  hills." 

Also,  in  reference  to  other  subjects,  he  says :  "  Good  building-stone  is  found  along  nearly  the 
whole  route.  There  are  a  few  pieces  of  excellent  land  along  these  rivers;  their  waters  are  clear 
and  beautiful,  and  filled  with  thousands  of  fish  of  the  different  kinds  of  the  salmon  family." 

By  trifling  improvements  on  Clark's  fork  and  the  Columbia  several  considerable  lines  of  com 
munication  by  steamers  could  be  opened,  which  would  greatly  facilitate  the  construction  of  the 
road.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  large  freight  boats  ascend  from  the  lower  end  ofPend 
d'Oreille  lake  to  Horse  Plain,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles,  making  two  port 
ages,  and  descend  from  above  our  northern  parallel  to  Vancouver.  Steamers  drawing  from  20 
to  24  inches  of  water  can,  at  low  stages,  ascend  to  nine  miles  above  the  lake,  and  still  farther  at 
higher  stages  of  water.  Between  Colville  and  De  Chute's  rivers,  on  the  Columbia,  there  are 
but  three  bad  obstacles  to  navigation  for  steamers  drawing  20  to  30  inches  of  water,  viz :  Kettle 
falls,  the  Priest's  and  Buckland's  rapids.  A  portage  would  probably  be  required  at  each  of 
these  places.  None  would  be  required  at  Ross's  rapids,  nor  at  any  other  points  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Spokane  than  those  designated.  One  or  more  may  be  required  between  Okinakane  and 
the  Kettle  falls.  The  Cascades  and  the  Dalles  are  also  bad  obstacles.  By  improvements  either 
in  the  bed  of  the  river  or  in  the  use  of  locks  at  these  several  points  on  the  Columbia  and  Clark's 
fork,  and  by  the  substitution  of  the  rail  where  such  improvement  is  impracticable,  it  is  not 
doubted  that  a  continuous  communication  can  be  established  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Spokane,  and  probably  to  Colville,  and  from  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake  to  Horse 
Plain.  Rails  will  undoubtedly  be  required  at  several  of  the  places,  and  transfers  be  made  from 
steamer  to  steamer. 

The  steamers  should  be  of  light  draught,  great  power,  and  will  be  used  chiefly  as  tow-boats. 
By  a  thorough  organization,  transportation  could  be  effected  at  a  moderate  expense,  when  the 
amount  is  sufficient,  as  in  the  case  of  a  railroad,  to  authorize  the  requisite  preliminary  outlay. 
The  present  high  rates  of  transportation  by  the  Columbia  river  arise  from  the  monopoly  that  is 
exercised  and  the  scarcity  of  labor.  In  the  construction  of  the  road  the  river  must  be  availed 
of  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima,  and  for  135  miles  on  Clark's  fork,  from  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake  to 
Horse  Plain. 

For  many  interesting  details  in  reference  to  this  river,  the  country,  and  forest  growth  of  its 
banks,  the  advantages  which  it  affords  for  manufacturing,  and  for  suggestions  in  reference  to  intro 
ducing  the  salmon  into  the  upper  country,  and  thus  affording  food  to  the  almost  starved  Indians, 
by  blasting  a  race-way  in  the  Great  Falls  twenty-five  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Clark's  fork, 
I  will  refer  you  to  Dr.  Suckley's  report,  a  copy  of  which  is  given  in  the  appendix. 

I  will  also  refer  you  to  the  reports  of  Captain  McClellan,  Lieutenant  Donelson,  Lieutenant 
Saxton,  and  Lieutenant  Arnold.  The  latter  officer,  after  having  ascertained  the  latitude  of  the 
mouth  of  Clark's  fork,  which  was  about  49°,  ran  a  line  from  Fort  Colville,  by  the  Grand  Coulee, 
the  mouth  of  the  Spokane,  and  the  mouth  of  Snake  river,  to  Wall  ah- Wallah. 

Lieutenant  Arnold  says  as  follows  in  relation  to  the  Grand  Coulee  and  the  vicinity  between  it 
and  the  Columbia : 

"I  again  descended  to  the  river  by  a  steep  and  rocky  trail,  and  inarched  three  miles,  encamp 
ing  near  the  mouth  of  the  coulee. 

"  The  trail  leaves  the  river  to  the  north,  and  passes  nearly  south.    After  an  ascent  of  243 


110  GRAND   COULEE   AND   ITS   VICINITY. 

feet  we  arrived  upon  a  level  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  coulee ;  it  was  about  ten  miles 
wide  at  the  north  entrance,  and  gradually  widened  until  it  passed  out  of  sight;  its  walls  were 
about  800  feet  high,  and  one  solid  mass  of  rock  basalt,  cemented  together  by  lava  or  some  more 
fusible  rock.  The  trail  had  a  gradual  fall  for  about  six  miles,  which  gives  a  fair  index  of  the 
ground  included  between  the  walls. 

"This  coule~e  was  twenty  miles  in  length;  its  walls  then  passed  out  of  sight,  to  the  west. 

"  The  soil  was  generally  sand,  except  near  the  walls,  where  it  was  made  up  of  disintegrated 
rock. 

"  The  line  of  march  the  succeeding  day  was  very  rocky  for  six  miles,  when  we  entered  the 
second  coulee  in  size.  This  coulee  has  the  general  appearance  of  the  former.  Travelling  through 
this,  we  again  entered  the  Hudson's  Bay  trail,  near  a  high,  rocky  mound.  To  remove  any  doubt 
that  may  remain  on  the  minds  of  others  in  regard  to  the  Grand  Coulee,  which  is  laid  down  on 
the  maps  about  ninety  miles  in  length,  I  will  state  I  obtained  the  best  guide  in  the  country.  He 
was  born  in  this  country,  and  has  travelled  the  route  for  the  last  fifteen  years.  I  questioned 
him  very  closely  in  regard  to  the  route  travelled  by  Lieutenant  Johnson  in  1841.  The  coulee 
through  which  he  travelled  is  not  known  as  the  Grande  CouUe  among  the  old  residents. 

"After  travelling  a  few  miles,  I  crossed  this  stream  and  passed  a  fine  lake  about  six  miles  in 
length  and  one  in  width;  it  was  fringed  with  alder  bushes,  and  filled  with  wild  fowl,  duck, 
geese,  and  white  swan.  Along  the  eastern  bank  of  this  lake  I  again  commanded  a  view  of  the 
range  along  the  western  bank  of  the  Columbia,  as  far  north  as  Pisquouse  river.  This  view,  taken 
in  connexion  with  the  information  I  have  received  from  my  guide,  leads  me  to  believe  that  the 
country  bounded  on  the  east  by  my  line  of  march,  north  and  west  by  the  Columbia,  on  the  south 
by  a  line  passing  through  the  mouth  of  the  Pisquouse  river,  and  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
second  coulee  previously  spoken  of,  is  filled  with  coulees  running  in  every  direction,  and  ranging 
from  one  to  fifteen  miles  in  length." 


CHAPTER   IX. 
Description  of  the  Cascade  Mountains  and  the  Pass  of  the  Columbia  River. 

In  reference  to  the  Cascade  mountains,  the  entire  geography  of  the  eastern  slope,  which  has 
been  represented  very  inaccurately  on  all  existing  maps,  has  been  developed  from  the  Columbia 
river  to  above  the  forty-ninth  parallel,  and  a  good  portion  of  the  western  slope  to  Puget  sound. 
The  highest  mountains  of  the  Cascade  range  on  the  Columbia  river  are  at  the  Cascades,  and 
at  the  mouth  of  the  White  Salmon  and  Telickitch  rivers,  from  which  points  spring  the  main 
Cascade  ranges,  running  to  the  north  up  to  Mount  St.  Helens  and  Mount  Adams,  and  centering 
still  farther  north  in  Mount  Rainier.  Thence  one  main  chain  runs  off  to  Mount  Baker,  having, 
however,  a  deep  re-entering  to  the  east,  through  which  issues  a  stream,  which,  winding  round 
Mount  Baker,  flows  into  Bellingham  bay,  giving  the  appearance  of  a  pass  from  the  waters  of 
the  sound,  and  another  runs  off  to  the  northeast. 

Eastward,  and  from  a  range  coursing  along,  and  some  six  or  eight  miles  south  of,  the  Yakima, 
to  above  our  northern  parallel,  the  Cascades,  with  their  innumerable  spurs,  extend  nearly  to 
the  Columbia  river,  causing  nearly  the  whole  country  to  be  mountainous,  or  high,  broken  table 
land.  The  streams  are  rapid,  have  their  sources  in  lakes,  frequently  of  large  size,  and  are  not 
even  adapted  to  the  rafting  of  lumber.  North  of  the  Columbia  river  a  range  of  hills  extends 
nearly  parallel  to  it,  at  some  eight  miles  distance,  and  heavily  wooded.  From  these  hills  flow 
many  small  streams  to  the  Columbia,  and  the  grazing  is  excellent  over  this  intermediate  space 
from  Wallah- Wallah  to  the  Dalles.  Much  of  this  is  good  farming  land. 

The  streams  on  the  western  slope  flow  in  nearly  a  northern  direction,  and  the  mountain  spurs 
between  them,  in  many  cases,  extend  to  near  the  shores  of  the  sound.  Reserving  to  a  subsequent 
occasion  some  account  of  the  sound,  and  the  country  tributary  to  it,  I  will  now  consider  the  passes 
of  the  Cascades  practicable  for  a  railroad. 

There  are  two  practicable  passes,  both  having  good  connexions  with  the  line  of  Clark's  fork :  that 
by  the  Columbia  itself  to  the  Cowlitz  river,  a  stream  which  rises  in  Mount  St.  Helens,  flows  in 
nearly  a  southerly  direction,  and  empties  into  the  Columbia  river  about  forty-five  miles  below 
Vancouver,  and  by  the  Cowlitz  river  to  the  sound,  and  that  by  the  main  Yakima  and  Snoqualme 
rivers. 

The  pass  of  the  Columbia  river,  examined  personally  by  myself,  as  well  as  by  Captain 
McClellan  and  Mr.  Lander,  is  remarkably  favorable  in  its  grades,  which  rarely  exceed  ten  feet; 
in  the  ease  with  which  debris  from  the  ledges  can  be  worked,  to  form  the  embankments  required 
to  guard  against  freshets;  and  the  great  facility  with  which  wood  and  stone,  both  of  good 
quality,  can  be  transported  down  the  Columbia  for  purposes  of  construction.  The  only  serious 
obstacle  is  Cape  Horn  mountain,  which,  to  avoid  sharp  curvature,  may  require  a  tunnel  seven 
hundred  feet  in  length,  though  it  is  hardly  probable  that  the  road  may  be  run  over  a  gap  in  rear 
of  it  without  tunnelling,  heavy  work,  or  steep  grades.  The  lateness  of  the  season  prevented  the 
examination.  Vancouver  would  furnish  an  admirable  depot,  and  also  afford  a  crossing  in 
its  vicinity  to  the  valley  of  the  Willamette.  The  grades  down  the  Columbia  to  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Cowlitz,  and  thence  to  Olympia,  Steilacoom,  or  Seattle,  on  the  sound,  will  be  small;  the 
work  throughout  light;  and  abundant  materials  of  all  kinds  will  be  found  for  road-beds  and  super 
structure. 


112  CASCADE   MOUNTAINS   AND   PASS   OF   COLUMBIA   RIVER. 

The  crossing  of  the  Columbia  at  the  Snake  river  presents  no  special  difficulties.  From  the 
Dalles  to  Vancouver,  there  will  be  expensive  rock-cutting.  All  the  streams  can  be  easily  bridged. 

This  is  not  the  place  to  discuss  whether  the  road  should  keep  north  or  south  of  the  Columbia 
river  the  whole  distance.  The  crossing  at  Vancouver  is  undoubtedly  objectionable,  as  interfering 
with  navigation.  There  is  an  excellent  crossing  at  the  Cascades,  at  the  Dalles,  and  at  several 
points  thence  to  Wallah-Wallah.  The  final  location  cannot  be  properly  made  till  the  practicable 
connexions  are  made  with  the  Salt  lake,  the  Willamette  valley,  and  California,  to  all  which  routes 
the  line  down  the  Columbia,  either  in  whole  or  in  part,  will  be  the  main  trunk.  It  is  possible 
a  better  deflection  to  the  vaUey  of  the  Columbia  may  be  found  a  little  more  eastward  of  the  present 
route,  close  under  the  base  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains,  to  a  crossing  of  the  Snake  between 
the  Peluse  and  the  Kooskooskia,  and  thence  to  the  valley  of  the  Wallah- Wallah  river,  and 
thus  the  route  made  to  lend  itself  to  either  bank  of  the  river  and  its  several  connexions.  In  the 
vicinity  of  Vancouver,  the  crossing,  instead  of  being  by  a  bridge,  might  be  effected  by  suitable 
ferry-boats.  It  is  sufficient  for  my  present  purpose  that  there  is  a  favorable  route  down  the 
Columbia,  and  that  a  connexion  can  be  made  with  the  valley  of  the  Willamette. 

In  view  of  the  agricultural,  manufacturing,  and  commercial  advantages  of  Oregon,  the  navi 
gability  of  the  Columbia  to  Vancouver  and  Portland  for  sea-going  vessels  and  steamers,  and  the 
rich  character  of  much  of  the  adjoining  country  in  the  Territory  of  Washington,  and  looking 
also  to  a  connexion  with  California,  I  am  of  opinion  that  a  line  down  the  Columbia,  thus  found 
eminently  practicable  by  the  exploration,  must  enter  into  every  plan  of  railroad  connexion  from 
the  St.  Lawrence  basin,  by  the  northern  route,  to  the  Pacific. 

The  question  simply  is,  whether  the  unrivalled  commercial  advantages  of  that  sound,  its  being 
six  hundred  miles  nearer  to  Asia,  making  it  the  natural  port  of  freights  and  passengers  to  our 
entire  North  and  to  Europe,  are  such  as  will  authorize  the  construction  of  a  road  through  the 
Snoqualme  Pass,  even  at  the  expense  of  much  difficult  work  and  tunnelling,  in  order  to  save  the 
increased  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  of  the  line  of  the 
Cowlitz. 

For  detailed  information  in  reference  to  the  geographical  description  of  the  Cascades,  I  will 
respectfully  refer  you  to  the  reports  of  Captain  George  B.  McClellan  and  Lieutenant  J.  K. 
Duncan,  C  No.  7  and  C  No.  8;  and  of  the  line  of  the  Lower  Columbia,  to  the  same  reports 
and  that  of  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander,  B  No.  6.  The  report  of  Dr.  Cooper,  C  No.  9,  will  give  some 
interesting  facts  in  relation  to  the  natural  history. 


CHAPTER    X. 

Resources  and  Geographical  Importance  of  Puget  Sound,  and  its  Relations  to  the  Trade 

of  Asia. 

Puget  sound  needs  no  special  description  in  this  report.  It  has  1,500  miles  of  shore-line, 
and  many  capacious  harbors  and  roadsteads,  accessible,  commodious,  and  entirely  land-locked. 
It  is  particularly  adapted  to  steam  navigation. 

Steilacoom,  Seattle,  and  Bellingham  bay,  would  be  good  termini  for  the  railroad ;  and  in 
relation  simply  to  the  route  of  the  Columbia  and  the  Cowlitz,  Port  Discovery,  on  the  Straits  de 
Fuca;  but  Seattle  combines  the  greatest  number  of  advantages.  As  rapidly  as  the  tonnage 
and  draught  of  vessels  have  increased  in  a  few  years,  rising  from  ten  or  fifteen  hundred  to  five  or 
six  thousand  tons,  it  is  hardly  probable  they  will  ever  exceed  the  capacity  of  this  harbor, 
which  at  low  water  would  admit  vessels  of  fifty  feet  draught. 

The  principal  resources  of  the  sound  are  its  lumber,  its  coal,  its  salmon,  and  the  cod  on  the 
banks  of  the  coast,  far  to  the  north  and  south  of  the  entrances  to  the  straits.  The  coal-beds 
extend  from  Bellingham  bay  to  the  Cowlitz  river,  and  when  subjected  to  analysis  have  been 
pronounced  of  excellent  quality.  Such  was  the  opinion  of  the  late  Prof.  Walter  Johnson;  and 
Lieut.  Trowbridge,  corps  of  engineers,  has,  after  examination,  expressed  a  favorable  opinion  of 
its  quality.  I  regret  that  I  cannot  give  in  the  appendix  a  copy  of  his  letter  to  the  Bellingham 
Bay  Coal  Company,  which  I  left  at  Olympia.  I  learn,  in  a  recent  letter  from  Olympia,  that  in 
June  very  excellent  coal  was  obtained  from  the  mines  in  Bellingham  bay. 

There  is  also  much  good  land  between  the  Cascades  and  the  ocean.  Although,  at  some 
points,  spurs  from  the  mountains  extend  nearly  to  the  sound,  yet  generally  there  is  an  interval 
of  prairie  or  rolling  land  some  thirty  or  forty  miles  broad;  the  river-bottoms  generally  rich, 
with  an  undergrowth  of  vine,  maple  and  alder.  In  the  vicinity  of,  and  north  of  Bellingham 
bay,  there  are  extensive  prairies,  and  the  river  Nook-sahk,  navigable  for  steamers  at  least  sixty 
miles,  and  which,  having  its  source  back  of  Mount  Baker,  passes  under  its  southern  and  western 
base,  and  finally  enters  the  sound  in  the  northern  part  of  the  bay,  is  represented  to  have  much 
excellent  land  on  its  banks.  At  the  delta  of  the  Sam-ish  and  Sin-a-ah-mish,  and  on  the  D'Wam- 
ish  and  its  several  tributaries  on  the  Puy-gal-lut,  there  is  much  excellent  land.  The  prairies 
on  the  southern  shore  of  the  Sami  are  some  of  them  gravelly,  particularly  those  in  the  vicinity  of 
Nisqually;  but,  as  a  general  rule,  the  land  is  good  and  yields  fair  returns  to  labor.  The  quality 
of  the  land  improves  on  approaching  the  mountain  slopes,  and  an  extensive  prairie  near  the 
head  of  the  Cowlitz,  and  at  the  base  of  Mount  St.  Helens,  is  one  of  the  best  tracts  of  land  in 
the  Territory. 

The  region  generally  between  the  Columbia  river  and  the  sound,  and  the  Cascades  and  the 
Pacific  ocean,  is  well  watered.  The  river  bottoms  having  a  growth  of  pine,  maple,  alder,  and 
curl-maple,  are  generally  rich,  and  there  is  much  productive  prairie,  interspersed  with  groves  of 
timber,  and  little  or  none  of  the  country  can  be  called  mountainous.  There  is  a  good  country 
along  the  Willopah  and  the  Chihalis  rivers,  and  from  the  Chihalis  to  the  head  of  Hood's  canal. 

The  islands  of  the   sound,  moreover,  are  quite  extensive,  and  Whitby's  island,  the  largest  of 

them  all,  and  in  the  very  centre  of  the  sound,  is  the  garden  of  the  Territory.     West  of  the  sound 

the  country  is  comparatively  unknown.     It  is  reported  to  have  great  mineral  wealth  and  much 

excellent  land.     There  will  be  a  great  thoroughfare  of  business  and  travel  from  the  sound  to 

15/ 


114  PUGET  SOUND,  AND  ITS  RELATION  TO  THE  TRADE  OF  ASIA. 

the  Columbia  river,   and  the   interests  of  the  two  Territories  of  Oregon  and   Washington   will 
soon  require  a  railroad. 

A  question  of  the  highest  importance  in  connexion  with  the  proposed  railroad,  is  the  effect 
which  it  will  have  in  securing  for  this  country  the  control  of  the  Asiatic  trade.  The  magnitude 
of  the  subject,  the  want  of  reliable  statistics,  and  the  difficulty  in  reasoning  from  the  past  when 
political  revolutions,  mechanical  inventions,  and  new  routes  of  travel  are  producing  such  great 
changes  in  the  relations  of  commerce,  will  preclude  me  from  considering  the  subject  in  detail. 
A  few  general  considerations  will  be  sufficient  to  show  the  importance  of  the  proposed  road  as 
an  avenue  for  the  trade  of  Asia. 

The  position  of  this  country,  standing  midway  between  the  great  centres  of  Asiatic  and 
European  population,  indicates  its  i'uture  commercial  greatness.  Facing  our  Pacific  possessions, 
and  separated  from  them  by  the  smooth  Pacific,  is  a  vast  region  covering  an  area  of  over  twelve 
millions  of  square  miles,  and  having  a  population  of  over  six  hundred  millions,  the  outlets  of 
whose  commerce  and  productions  are  nearer  not  only  to  our  Pacific,  but  our  Atlantic  cities, 
than  to  the  ports  of  any  European  nation  ;  Calcutta,  Singapore,  Manilla,  Canton,  and  Shanghai 
being  nearer  to  New  York,  New  Orleans  and  Charleston,  by  lines  of  communication  entirely 
feasible,  than  to  England. 

The  trade  of  this  vast  region,  including  China,  Japan,  and  the  Asiatic  Archipelago,  has  been 
the  great  commercial  prize  in  ancient  and  modern  times.  Persia,  Assyria,  Carthage,  and  Rome, 
each  swayed  the  world,  as  it  controlled  the  commerce  of  the  East.  Venice,  Genoa,  Lisbon, 
Amsterdam,  and  London,  each  in  its  turn  attained  commercial  supremacy,  as  it  became  the 
dispenser  of  Eastern  luxuries  to  the  Western  world.  The  value  of  the  import  and  export  trade 
of  the  Asiatic  region,  which  can  be  made  tributary  to  our  commerce,  cannot  be  readily  deter 
mined  ;  but  that  of  China  has  been  estimated  at  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  millions  of  dollars 
per  annum,  the  greater  part  of  which  has  been  carried  on  by  Great  Britain ;  and  the  annual 
value  of  the  export  and  import  trade  of  Great  Britain  with  the  Asiatic  Archipelago  and  Pacific 
islands  is  estimated  at  seventy-five  millions  of  dollars. 

An  important  fact  bearing  upon  the  feasibility  of  diverting  the  trade  of  Asia  from  the  old  chan 
nels,  is  the  comparative  nearness  of  our  Pacific  possessions  to  the  city  of  Shanghai,  which  is 
most  favorably  situated  to  become  the  future  emporium  of  China,  and  the  outlet  of  trade  of  over 
three  hundred  millions  of  people,  who  are  just  beginning  to  break  away  from  that  exclusive 
policy  which  has,  for  so  many  centuries,  shut  them  out  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  The  con 
centration  of  British  capital  at  Canton,  and  its  greater  nearness  to  England,  has  made  the  latter 
city  the  centre  of  the  foreign  trade  with  China.  But  the  silk  and  tea  producing  districts  lie 
much  nearer  to  Shanghai,  while  this  city,  situated  upon  a  river  which  is  connected  with  the 
Yangtze  Kiang,  the  great  artery  of  China,  has  water  communication  with  one  third  of  the  empire. 
Shanghai,  which  may  be  called  the  New  Orleans  of  China,  is  distant  only  5,000  miles  from  Puget 
sound,  and  the  route  passes  by  Japan,  with  its  fifty  millions  of  inhabitants — Jeddo  being  only 
3,660  miles  distant  from  Puget  sound. 

Nature  has  clearly  indicated  the  northern  pathway  for  the  commerce  from  the  future  mart  of 
Asiatic  trade  to  this  country  and  Europe.  The  great  lakes  carry  us  water-borne  half-way  across 
the  continent.  The  proposed  road  communicates  on  a  direct  line  with  the  northern  lake  trade — 
the  most  wonderful  internal  commerce  the  world  has  ever  known — a  traffic  which  is  stated  to  have 
amounted  in  1851  to  $326,000,000,  employing  74,000  tons  of  steam  and  138,000  tons  of  sail- 
vessels.  It  intersects  the  Mississippi  river,  and  thus  communicates  with  the  southern  States.  It 
is  on  the  line  of  the  great  wheat-producing  region  of  America;  and,  above  all,  it  is  on  the  direct 
line  of  the  shortest  distance  between  the  centres  of  European  and  Asiatic  population. 

The  opening  of  this  avenue  is  already  eagerly  sought  by  our  own  people  to  facilitate  the 
exchange  of  their  products  with  those  of  Asia.  From  New  York  to  Shanghai,  by  way  of  Cape 
Horn  and  Lima,  the  sailing  distance  is  21,000  miles.  By  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  the 


PUGET   SOUND,    AND    ITS   RELATION    TO    THE    TRADE   OF    ASIA.  115 

distance  is  .     From  New  York  to  Shanghai,  by  way  of  the  proposed  railroad  and  Pugef. 

sound,  the  distance  will  be  7,800  to  8,000  miles — a  saving  over  the  sailing  routes  either  of 
Cape  Horn  or  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  which  must  carry  a  great  part  of  the  Asiatic  trade  with 
our  Atlantic  cities  across  the  continent.  But  the  Atlantic  cilies  cannot  be  considered  the  true 
points  of  departure  for  the  Asiatic  trade.  There  must  be  points  in  the  great  interior  between 
the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  Alleghanies.  From  St.  Paul,  on  the  Mississippi  river,  to  Shanghai, 
the  distance  will  be  less  than  7,000  miles ;  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  great  interior,  where  the 
mass  of  our  population  will  hereafter  be  situated  in  their  consumption  of  Asiatic  teas,  silks 
and  spices,  will  save  the  transportation  from  the  seaboard. 

In  predicting  the  future  course  of  Asiatic  trade,  it  is  presumed  that  lines  of  steamships  will  be 
established  between  Shanghai  and  our  Pacific  possessions.  The  coal  at  Puget  sound,  lying  on 
the  route  from  San  Francisco  to  Shanghai,  will  furnish  the  necessary  combustible.  It  is  also 
presumed  that  the  difficulty  of  carrying  freight,  together  with  the  quantity  of  coal  requisite  for  so 
long  a  voyage,  will  be  greatly  overcome  by  the  increased  size  of  vessels — steamships  of  even 
10,000  tons  burden  being  now  in  the  course  of  construction — and  also  by  mechanical  inventions 
and  improvements  in  motive  power,  which  will  diminish  the  quantity  of  fuel  required.  It  may 
be  safely  assumed  that,  by  the  time  the  proposed  road  is  completed,  the  average  time  on  the 
Pacific,  so  much  more  favorable  ibr  steam  voyages  than  the  Atlantic,  will  exceed  fifteen  miles 
per  hour. 

When  an  uninterrupted  line  of  steam  communication  is  established,  a  portion  of  the  European 
trade,  and  nearly  all  the  travel  to  Asia,  must  take  its  course  across  our  continent,  and  on  the 
northern  road,  as  the  shortest  route.  The  present  sailing  distance  from  Liverpool  to  Shanghai  is 
14,400  miles.  By  way  of  Puget  sound  the  distance  will  be  10,800  miles;  a  difference  equal 
to  a  voyage  across  the  Atlantic.  From  England  to  Jeddo,  in  Japan,  the  sailing  distance  is  15,660 
miles.  By  way  of  Puget  sound  the  distance  will  be  9,500  miles. 

The  course  of  travel  is  determined  by  the  shortest  time.  The  saving  of  time  will  carry  Euro 
pean  travel  and  mails  even  as  far  as  Calcutta,  and  much  more  to  places  farther  east  and 
nearer  our  Pacific  possessions,  by  the  proposed  route.  The  average  time  required  to  carry 
the  mails  from  Calcutta  to  England,  on  the  overland  route,  is  forty-eight  days;  from  Shanghai 
to  England,  sixty  days.  The  distance  from  Calcutta  to  Puget  sound  is  8,450  miles,  which  dis 
tance  would  be  performed  by  steam-vessels,  at  fifteen  miles  an  hour,  in  twenty-three  days;  the 
2,800  miles  from  Puget  sound  to  New  York  will  be  run  over  by  passenger  trains,  moving  at 
thirty  miles  an  hour,  in  four  days;  from  New  York  to  England,  the  average  time  is  twelve  days  ; 
making,  in  all,  thirty-nine  days,  and  a  saving  in  time  of  nine  days  from  England  to  Calcutta, 
and  of  thirty-three  days  in  the  time  from  New  York  to  Calcutta  by  way  of  England.  The  travel 
from  Shanghai  to  New  York  would  be  performed  in  eighteen  days ;  from  Shanghai  to  England  in 
thirty  days ;  being  a  saving  of  fifty-four  days  from  New  York,  and  thirty  days  from  England. 

It  may  be  more  doubtful  if  merchandise  will  bear  the  heavy  expense  of  transportation  by  rail 
and  steam-vessels.  It  would  be  hardly  safe  at  present  to  fix  the  limits  of  economical  transporta 
tion  of  merchandise,  as  other  elements  than  mere  cost  are  to  be  considered.  The  saving  of  time 
is  an  important  element,  as  is  evinced  by  the  high  freights  paid  to  clipper-ships,  and  the  higher 
rates  paid  for  transportation  by  rail  on  lines  parallel  to  canals  and  rivers. 

Notwithstanding  an  increased  cost  of  transportation,  all  merchandise  which  is  deteriorated  by 
exposure  to  a  tropical  climate  will  take  the  northern  route  across  the  continent.  The  British 
sailing  route,  and  our  own,  cross  the  equator  twice.  Teas,  as  well  as  other  animal  and  vegetable 
substances  designed  for  human  sustenance,  are  heated  and  greatly  injured  by  exposure  to  a 
continued  high  temperature.  It  is  believed  that  the  delicate  flavor  of  tea  transported  overland 
from  China  to  St.  Petersburg  will  be  preserved  in  that  article  transported  by  sea,  when  the 
present  tropical  exposure  is  avoided. 

A  short  route  to  China  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to  this  country  to  facilitate  the  exportation 


116  PUGET  SOUND,  AND  ITS  RELATION  TO  THE  TRADE  OP  ASIA. 

of  goods  manufactured  from  the  great  American  staple.  Great  Britain  has  penetrated  Asia, 
and  commanded  its  valuable  trade  almost  wholly  by  her  exports  of  cotton  goods.  Hitherto  we 
have  had  no  advantage  of  distance  in  our  competition  for  this  trade.  Her  advantages  for  manu 
facturing  are  fast  diminishing.  The  prices  of  labor  in  that  country  are  increasing.  Our  own 
manufacturers  of  coarse  cottons  have  attained  such  skill  and  economy  that  they  command  our 
own  markets,  and  are  only  restrained  in  the  productions  of  their  enterprise  by  a  want  of  outlets 
ibr  their  fabrics.  Hundreds  of  millions  of  people  in  China  and  the  Asiatic  Archipelago  are  to 
be  supplied  with  cotton  clothing;  and  the  great  superiority  of  the  American  staple  over  the 
India  cotton  will  always  create  a  demand  for  our  fabrics.  The  English  and  American  manu 
facturers  take  their  raw  material  from  the  same  starting  point — New  Orleans.  The  former  has 
to  transport  this  material  4,500  miles,  to  Liverpool,  to  be  manufactured,  and  the  products  of 
the  manufacture  14,400  miles,  to  Shanghai;  making,  in  all,  a  distance  of  IS, 900  miles.  The 
American  manufacturer  transports  the  raw  material  to  Boston,  a  distance  of  1,800  miles.  When 
the  proposed  railroad  is  completed,  he  will  have  to  transport  his  cotton,  from  the  common 
starting  point,  only  9,800  miles  to  the  common  market,  Shanghai.  The  American  will  have 
in  his  favor  8,600  miles,  and  a  still  greater  advantage  when  manufactures  are  established  at 
the  South.  There  can  be  no  reasonable  doubt  that,  with  the  advantages  of  rapidity  of  transit, 

and  shortness  of  distance,  all  our  cotton  fabrics  of  a  value  exceeding dollars 

per  ton  will  be  transported  by  rail  to  Puget  sound.  It  has  been  estimated  that  the  supply 
necessary  for  these  new  markets  will  require  an  amount  of  cotton  equal  to  the  present  "entire" 
crop  of  upland  cotton  of  the  United  States.  When  it  is  remembered  that  the  United  Slates 
manufactures  only  one-third  of  the  entire  crop,  the  rest  being  exported,  and  that  the  capital 
invested  in  our  own  cotton  manufactures  is  $80,000,000,  and  the  annual  value  of  the  products  of 
these  manufactories  is  $70,000,000,  some  conception  may  be  formed  of  the  value  of  an  avenue 
to  Asiatic  trade  which  opens  a  new  outlet  for  these  products. 

The  manufacturing  skill  and  enterprise  of  the  North,  and  the  resources  of  the  South,  are  ade 
quate  to  meet  the  future  demands  of  an  unparalleled  trade.  It  has  been  said  by  one  of  the  most 
intelligent  statistical  writers  of  the  South,  that  in  process  of  time  the  annual  product  of  cotton  in 
the  United  States  can  be  augmented  to  six  times  its  present  yield,  and  it  will  not  be  more  aston 
ishing  than  its  augmentation  since  1790 ;  and  he  continues :  "  When  the  cultivation  becomes  more 
extended,  and  to  all  sections  of  the  '  cotton  zone,'  covering  more  than  eight  degrees  of  latitude, 
and  more  than  eighteen  degrees  of  longitude,  the  probability  is  lessened  of  any  untoward  season 
or  other  casualty  affecting  the  aggregate  crop  injuriously,  and  consequently  the  average  supply 
and  the  prices  will  be  more  regular  and  uniform." 


CHAPTER    XL 

Railroad  Practicability  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass. 

By  referring  to  the  lucid  and  able  reports  of  Captain  McClellan,  in  charge  of  the  western 
division,  and  of  Mr.  Tinkham,  one  of  the  civil  engineers  of  the  exploration,  the  following  facts 
will  be  found  established. 

The  pass  is  about  3,500  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Yakima  valley,  leading  to  it,  is  broad  and 
open,  affording  an  excellent  railroad  approach.  The  pass  must  be  overcome  by  tunnels  or 
inclined  planes,  or  a  continuation  of  both.  There  are  two  places  for  a  tunnel :  First,  one  from 
the  level  of  Lake  Willailootzas,  about  3,000  feet  above  the  sound,  of  4,000  yards  (2.27  miles)  in 
length.  Second,  by  a  tunnel  from  the  level  of  Lake  Kitchelus,  2,388  feet  above  Vancouver, 
31,840  yards  (5.73  miles)  in  length.  The  first  tunnel  has  an  eastern  approach  of  18£  miles,  with 
a  grade  of  48.4  feet  per  mile.  The  second  tunnel  has  an  eastern  approach  of  1S£  miles,  with  a 
grade  of  15.2  feet  per  mile  ;  both  on  the  supposition  of  uniform  grades. 

Captain  McClellan's  survey  and  barometric  profile  only  extended  some  three  miles  beyond 
the  divide ;  and  for  the  remainder  of  the  route,  of  which  the  report  of  Captain  McClellan  gives 
the  general  features,  I  am  particularly  indebted  to  the  winter  trip  of  Mr.  Tinkham  for  the 
information  we  possess  as  to  grades  and  practical  difficulties.  From  the  pass  to  the  Snoqualme 
falls  the  distance  is  forty-five  miles.  On  the  supposition  of  uniform  grades,  the  descent  is  59.8 
feet  per  mile  for  the  short  tunnel,  and  48.4  for  the  long  one.  Uniform  grades  in  such  country 
never  occur  in  practice.  It  is  the  opinion  of  Mr.  Tinkham  that  the  most  difficult  grade  of  the 
short  tunnel  will  be  eighty  feet  to  the  mile,  and  for  the  long  tunnel  sixty  feet,  and  these  grades 
only  for  short  distances ;  and  in  his  conclusion  I  place  great  confidence,  from  the  ability  and 
judgment  he  has  shown  in  the  discharge  of  his  duties  throughout  the  exploration. 

If  the  short  tunnel  should  involve  but  eighty -feet  grades,  and  only  for  some  fifteen  miles,  it  would 
be  better  to  have  additional  locomotive  power  for  this  small  portion  of  the  route,  than  to  be  at  the 
expense,  in  money  and  time,  of  the  long  tunnel.  Should  the  use  of  the  short  tunnel  involve 
inclined  planes  and  a  large  expenditure  of  stationary  power,  it  will  be  a  question  simply  of  cost, 
as  between  it  and  the  long  tunnel,  as  to  which  shall  be  adopted.  The  worst  aspect  of  the  case  is 
the  practicability  of  the  route  only  by  using  the  long  tunnel,  and  to  this  single  point  I  shall  con 
fine  my  remarks. 

Before  entering  upon  this  subject,  it  may  be  well  to  advert  to  the  foot  trail  referred  to  in  both 
the  reports  of  Captain  McClellan  and  Mr.  Tinkham.  It  connects  Lake  Kitchelus  with  a  tributary 
of  the  Snoqualme  river,  and  may  furnish,  though  passing  over  a  more  difficult  and  impracticable 
country,  a  shorter  line  to  pierce  the  mountain.  In  Mr.  Tinkham's  winter  examination,  the 
Indians  who  accompanied  him  reported  that  pass  to  be  better,  and  more  free  from  snow,  than 
the  pass  examined.  It  is  more  obstructed  by  fallen  timber,  and  cannot  be  used  with  horses. 

There  has  already  been  a  large  experience  in  tunnels,  both  in  Europe  and  this  country.  The 
average  cost  of  tunnels  in  England  has  been  about  .£35  per  lineal  yard.  Shafts  are  sunk  from 
four  to  six  hundred  feet.  In  this  country  the  tunnels  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad  cost 
$260  per  lineal  yard.  A  tunnel  is  being  constructed  in  Massachusetts,  under  the  Hoosack 
mountains,  24,100  feet  long,  passing  under  a  country  ranging  from  300  to  1,700  feet  above  the 
line  of  the  tunnel,  and  the  three  shafts  varying  from  300  to  800  feet  in  depth.  A  tunnel  is 
now  being  built  in  Hungary,  ten  miles  long;  and  one  under  the  Alps,  devised  by  Mr.  Maus,  and 


118  RAILROAD   PRACTICABILITY   OF   SNOQUALME   PASS. 

approved  by  Stevenson,  the  great  English  engineer,  seven  and  two-thirds  miles  in  length,  without 
shafts,  the  mountain  rising  5,000  feet  above  the  line  of  the  tunnel.  Mr.  Maus  proposes  to  use  a 
machine,  and  work  it  by  water-power.  The  grade  will  be  105  feet  to  the  mile. 

Shafts  can  be  sunk  in  rock  about  three  feet  per  day.  A  tunnel  without  a  machine  can  be 
pushed  three  feet  from  each  face  per  twenty-four  hours ;  and  with  a  machine  like  that  proposed 
for  the  Hoosack  tunnel,  six  feet  per  twenty-four  hours;  and  like  that  proposed  by  Mr.  Maus, 
11 -nr  feet  per  twenty -four  hours. 

The  proposed  tunnel  under  the  Snoqualme  Pass  will  be  11,845  yards  in  length;  in  width 
sufficient  for  a  double  track,  varying  from  22  to  24  feet  in  the  extreme  ;  top  semicircular,  and 
extreme  height  20|  feet.  Five  shafts  will  be  required,  333,  604|,  800,  800,  and  407  feet,  respect 
ively,  in  depth,  and  1,941,  3,8S2,  5,823,  8,291,  and  10,068  yards  distant,  respectively,  from 
the  eastern  heading.  Allowing  one  year  for  locating  the  tunnel,  and  one  ye'ar  additional  for 
sinking  shafts,  it  is  estimated  that  it  will  be  completed  in  four  years  without  the  use  of  a 
machine,  and  that  its  cost  will  be  $130  per  lineal  foot  in  round  numbers,  or  $420  per  lineal 
yard.  Total  cost  of  the  tunnel  is  estimated  in  round  numbers  at  $5,000,000. 

The  line  to  Seattle  by  the  Snoqualme  Pass  will  cost  some  seven  millions  less  than  the  line  to 
the  same  point  by  the  Columbia  river. 

The  Columbia  route  from  Seattle  to  the  point  of  junction  is  estimated  to  rise  seven  hundred 
feetj  and  to  fall  three  hundred. 

The  Snoqualme  route  is  estimated  to  rise  in  the  aggregate  for  the  long  tunnel  2,500  feet,  and 
to  fall  2,100.  Using  the  formula  of  Latrobe  and  Knight,  engineers  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 

R  V  F 

railroad  :     r\"  ••  (K  being  the  rise  and  F  the  fall,)  the  equated  distance  of  the  line  by  the  Columbia 

river  will  be  found  by  adding  19  miles  to  the  measured  distance  of  395  miles,  and  that  by  the 
line  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass  by  adding  87  miles  to  the  distance  of  240  miles — both  from  the  point 
where  the  two  roads  fprk.  Thus  the  equated  distance  of  the  two  routes  will  be  414  and  327 
miles,  a  difference  of  87  miles  in  favor  of  the  Snoqualme  route.  With  the  use  of  the  short 
tunnel,  the  difference  will  be  64  miles.  Thus  the  time  gained  for  passenger  trains  moving  on 
level  grades  30  miles  an  hour,  will  be  three  hours  in  favor  of  the  Snoqualme  route,  and  six  hours 
for  freight  trains  moving  15  miles  an  hour.  With  the  short  tunnel  the  gain  will  be  two  hours 
for  passenger  trains  and  four  hours  for  freight  trains. 

It  is  not  believed  that  any  difficulties  will  occur  from  snow  which  cannot  easily  be  guarded 
against.  The  climate  is  mild,  the  temperature  about  the  same  with  San  Francisco ;  the  harbors 
are  not  obstructed  by  ice,  and  at  the  summit  level  of  the  route  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass  the  climate 
is  believed  to  be  about  the  same  with  that  of  the  summit  level  of  the  Portland  and  Montreal  rail 
road.  In  January  of  this  year  the  snow  in  the  pass  was  only  six  or  seven  feet  deep  for  as  many 
miles.  For  some  forty  additional  miles  the  snow  fell  away  in  depth  to  less  than  two  feet;  it  was 
in  layers,  very  light,  and  would  have  offered  no  obstruction  to  the  passage  of  cars.  In  the 
meteorological  portion  of  the  report,  the  subject  will  be  discussed  more  at  length. 

The  deepest  snow  will  be  over  the  tunnel,  and  it  will  be  easy  to  devise  a  suitable  covering  for 
the  few  miles  from  the  entrance  of  the  tunnel,  which  in  some  seasons  may  be  obstructed. 

The  general  characteristics  of  the  route  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass  may  be  summed  up  as  follows: 
The  approach  to  this  pass  is  by  the  valley  of  the  Yakima,  and  the  Columbia  may  be  crossed 
anywhere  within  fifteen  miles  above  the  junction  of  these  two  rivers.  The  approaches  to  the 
Columbia  are  perfectly  good,  and  its  width  about  four  hundred  yards.  No  material  for  building 
exists  immediately  at  hand.  Excellent  yellow  pine  grows  abundantly  on  the  Yakima  one  hundred 
miles  from  its  mouth,  and  can  be  floated  down  at  high  water  with  but  little  difficulty. 

Good  granite  was  found  by  Captain  McClellan  on  the  Columbia,  about  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima  ;  and  Dr.  Suckley  reports  excellent  stone  for  building 
purposes  on  the  whole  lint1  of  the  Columbia. 


RAILROAD    PRACTICABILITY   OF   SNOQUALME   PASS.  119 

From  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia  to  the  commencement  of  the  pine  timber,  a  distance  of 
ninety-six  miles,  the  general  character  of  the  valley  is  wide,  open,  and  terraced — the  ground 
of  sand,  gravel,  or  loose  stones;  but  little  clay  or  vegetable  mould;  curves  easy,  long  stretches  of 
straight  road,  perfectly  practicable.  In  this  distance  there  are  five  points  where  the  hills  come 
close  to  the  river,  making  at  most  ten  miles  of  side-cutLing  necessary.  This  cutting  is  generally 
in  earth,  loose  stone  or  trap  rock,  easily  broken  into  blocks.  In  addition  to  these  points,  the 
last  eight  miles  of  the  ninety-six  will  be  principally  side-cutting  in  earth,  gravel  and  sand,  the 
work  light,  and  no  very  high  side-slopes.  In  the  first  eighty  miles  from  the  Columbia  the  grade 
will  be  twelve  and  a  half  feet  to  the  mile ;  in  the  last  sixteen  miles  it  will  be  eight  and  a  half  feet 
to  the  mile. 

By  keeping  thus  far  the  north  bank  of  the  Yakima,  the  only  bridges  of  any  consequence  required 
will  be  two  over  streams  each  about  seventy-five  feet  in  width.  At  some  place  in  this  vicinity 
it  would  be  advisable  to  cross  to  the  south  bank  of  the  Yakima,  which  is  here  about  forty  yards 
wide,  good  crossing  easily  found,  plenty  of  timber  on  the  spot,  and  stone  for  masonry  within 
twenty-five  miles  by  water.  The  road  now  keeps  to  the  valley  twenty-one  miles  farther  on ; 
four  miles  beyond  Ketetas,  passing  through  an  open  pine  woods;  soil  light,  sometimes  gravelly; 
about  two  miles  side-cutting;  grade  eight  feet  to  the  mile. 

If  the  short  tunnel  be  used,  the  road  must  at  this  point  leave  the  valley,  take  a  side  location 
on  the  northern  slope  of  the  mountain  bordering  the  valley  on  the  south,  and  ascend  eight  hundred 
and  ninety-five  feet  in  eighteen  and  a  half  miles,  giving  a  grade  of  48.4  feet  per  mile  in  fifty  per 
cent.  rock.  The  plateau  of  Willailootzas,  one  mile  long,  will  be  entered  by  a  curve  with  a  radius 
of  about  2,000  feet,  the  road  passing  along  the  north  bank  of  the  lake,  with  side  location,  in  eighty 
per  cent,  trap  rock,  easily  worked.  This  lake  should  be  partially  drained  ;  its  shores  are  steep 
and  of  broken  stone.  There  will  be  some  little  difficulty  in  preparing  a  proper  depot  for  the  work 
men,  tools,  &c.,  at  the  entrance  of  the  tunnel.  The  tunnel,  about  4,000  yards  long,  will  pass 
through  solid  rock  (silicious  conglomerate,)  and  will  debouche  on  the  western  slope,  at  an  eleva 
tion  of  about  3,000  feet  above  the  sound  at  Seattle.  The  road  must  now  have  a  side  location 
on  the  mountain  spur  bordering  the  valley  of  the  Nook-noo,  in  about  seventy  per  cent,  rock, 
generally  conglomerate  ;  follow  this  valley  twenty-nine  and  a  half  miles,  then  take  the  summit 
and  northern  slope  of  the  low  ridge  separating  Lake  Mowee  from  the  valley  of  the  Snoqualme, 
and  from  that  taking  a  spur  running  from  the  Nook-noo  falls  to  those  of  the  Snoqualme,  reach  the 
latter  falls  a  distance  of  forty-five  miles  from  the  tunnel ;  all  in  side-cutting,  with  rocks  as  above. 
The  grade  will  be  59.8  feet  per  mile.  With  reference  to  this  stretch  of  forty-five  miles,  and 
that  of  eighteen  and  a  half  miles  on  the  eastern  slope,  leading  to  the  tunnel,  it  is  to  be  observed 
that  the  grades  given  above  are  on  the  supposition  that  a  continuous  grade  can  be  obtained ;  'but 
it  must  be  expected  that  the  grade  will  necessarily  be  broken,  and  be  higher  than  the  estimate  in 
many  places. 

From  the  Snoqualme  falls  to  Seattle  is  a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles,  of  which  the  first  ten 
must  have  a  grade  of  20  feet  per  mile,  at  most,  and  the  remainder,  twenty,  pass  over  quite  a  level 
country. 

If,  instead  of  a  tunnel  from  the  level  of  Lake  Willailootzas,  we  consider  a  tunnel  from  the 
level  of  Lake  Kitchelus,  the  case  will  be  as  follows:  Commencing  at  the  point  eighteen  and 
a  half  miles  east  of  Willailootzas,  there  will  be  eighteen  and  a  half  miles  with  a  grade  of  15.2 
feet  per  mile,  and  but  little  side-cutting,  through  a  thickly  timbered  country  as  far  as  Kitchelus. 
The  divide  must  now  be  pierced  by  a  tunnel  11,840  yards  long,  of  a  character  similar  to  the 
one  considered  above.  The  grade  to  the  Snoqualme  falls  will  be  46.3  feet  per  mile;  all  other 
circumstances  unchanged.  The  greatest  grades  will  probably  be  SO  feet  to  the  mile  in  the  case 
of  the  short  tunnel,  and  60  feet  in  the  case  of  the  long  tunnel,  and  both  for  short  distances. 

A  line  along  the  Columbia  river  to  the  sound  will  be  necessary,  even  with  lines  both  down  the 
Columbia  river  and  through  the  Snoqualme  Pass. 


120  RAILROAD   PRACTICABILITY   OF   SNOQUALME   PASS. 

Before  locating  the  road,  an  instrumental  survey  of  the  two  routes  will  be  indispensable.  It 
is  believed  that  the  most  unfavorable  view  is  given  in  the  report  of  the  route  of  the  Snoqualme 
Pass. 

The  estimates  will  be  given  for  both  routes;  and  in  the  estimate  for  the  Snoqualme  Pass  route, 
a  branch  to  the  Columbia  will  be  included. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

Resume  of  the  Line  from  the  Base  of  the  Mountains  to  Puget  Sound. 

As  before  observed,  the  immense  prairies,  the  marked  characteristics  of  the  country  west  of 
the  Mississippi,  stretch  to  the  very  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  to  this  limit  a  railroad  will 
have  no  greater  obstacles  to  overcome  than  the  passage  of  prairie  elevations,  and  the  crossing 
of  a  few  small  rivers.  It  is  a  singular  truth,  that  while  the  whole  mountain  district  has  a  clear 
breadth  by  a  direct  line  of  200  miles,  the  eastern  prairies  north  of  the  Missouri  make  up  to 
within  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  of  the  summit  ridge  ;  and  on  leaving  the  prairies  and  tracing  up  the 
several  small  streams  which  head  in  the  mountains  on  the  eastern  side,  one  finds  himself  not 
only  thus  suddenly  thrown  into  the  midst  of  the  mountains,  but  that  he  has  hardly  crossed  their 
boundary  before  he  has  commenced  their  descent  towards  the  Pacific. 

The  plains  at  the  entrance  to  the  mountain  passes  have  an  elevation  of  about  4,700  feet  above 
the  sea,  or  are  about  six  hundred  feet  lower  than  the  tunnel  proposed  for  passing  the  dividing 
ridge,  and  the  grade  line  connecting  the  two  is  along  the  hill-sides  at  the  sources  of  the  tribu 
taries  of  Beaver  creek.  The  country  at  this  short  interval  is  a  good  deal  broken ;  the  culvert 
crossings  of  the  several  small  brooks  will  be  expensive,  and  the  excavations  will  frequently  be 
rock. 

It  is  estimated  that  a  grade  of  forty  feet  can  be  obtained  from  the  plains  to  the  tunnel. 

The  Rocky  mountain  divide,  at  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass,  is  a  narrow,  sharp  ridge,  whose 
extreme  elevation  is  6,323  feet  above  the  sea,  and  whose  opposite  bases,  over  1,000  feet  below 
the  summit,  are  two  and  a  quarter  miles  apart.  The  passage  of  this  summit  is  by  a  tunnel 
through  rock  two  and  a  quarter  miles  long,  and  at  an  elevation  of  5,300  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  western  descent  is  made  with  a  forty  to  fifty  feet  grade.  In  common  with  Cadotte's  Pass, 
Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass  opens  into  Blackfoot  river,  and  the  routes  crossing  the  mountains  by 
the  two  passes  unite  soon  after,  gaining  the  river  valley  on  the  west  side. 

Blackfoot  river  has  a  generally  narrow  and  wooded  valley,  the  enclosing  wooded  hills  some 
times  encroaching  upon  the  river,  and  sometimes  widening  and  discovering  easy-sloping,  small, 
and  fertile  prairies.  The  stream  itself,  from  a  mountain  brook  at  the  summit,  ninety-three  miles 
lower  down,  in  the  vicinity  of  Hell  Gate,  has  a  width  of  two  hundred  feet,  and  a  depth  of 
three  feet,  flowing  over  a  clear  rocky  bed.  Its  bottom  is  wooded,  and  the  bitter  cotton-wood 
is  found  mingled  with  the  pines  and  the  different  evergreens  which  make  up  the  exclusive 
growth  of  the  higher  grounds.  The  valley  has  an  average  descent  of  twenty-two  feet  per  mile. 

The  bottom-lands  of  the  valley  of  Jocko  river,  along  whose  edge  the  railroad  line  is  marked, 
are  not  generally  wooded.  The  valley  from  the  summit  drops  down  very  suddenly  towards 
Clark's  fork,  facing  the  line  to  the  wooded  hills  skirting  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley,  and  great 
care  will  be  necessary,  in  locating  the  line,  to  obtain  suitable  grades.  The  descent  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  valley,  which  appears  most  promising,  involves  the  crossing  of  the  main  branch  of 
Jocko  river  at  a  considerable  elevation.  A  descent  on  the  western  side  would  avoid  this,  and 
may  be  practicable. 

Clark's  fork,  where  the  line  first  enters  its  valley,  is  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred 

yards  wide — a  clear,  rapid  river,  and  is  rarely  fordable.     With  the  exception  of  the  occasional 

small  prairies,  serving  as  camping  grounds,  and   noted  on  the  maps,  its  valley  throughout   is 

heavily  timbered,  mainly  with  the  pine ;  cedars  of  great  size  are  met  with  in  some  parts  of  the 

16/ 


122  LINE   FROM   BASE   OP   THE   MOUNTAINS   TO   PUGET   SOUND. 

valley.  At  several  points  on  the  route  the  rocky  hill-sides  crowd  upon  the  river,  and  all  deep 
cutting  will  probably  expose  the  rock,  apparently  mostly  species  of  limestone  or  trap ;  but  the 
valley  is  wider  than  the  valley  of  Blackfoot  river,  or  of  Bitter  Root  river  soon  after  its  junction 
with  the  latter  stream,  and  has  a  general  width  of  two  or  three  miles.  The  descent  of  the  valley 
has  an  average  rate  of  eleven  feet  per  mile. 

The  greatest  gradients  of  the  railroad  would  not  exceed  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  per  mile.  After 
passing  from  the  valley  of  the  Jocko  to  that  of  the  Flathead,  it  would  follow  the  hills  on  the  left  of 
that  stream  to  a  point  some  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Bitter  Root;  then  crossing  the 
former,  it  would  follow  the  right  bank  of  Clark's  fork  as  far  as  Big  Rock.  The  course  then 
may  either  be  on  the  right  bank  the  whole  distance  to  the  lower  extremity  of  Pend  d'Oreille 
lake,  or  it  may  cross  to  the  left  bank  at  Big  Rock,  and  recross  to  the  right  bank  at  the  Cabinet 
mountain;  or,  continuing  on  the  right  bank  to  the  Cabinet,  some  twenty  miles  above  Lake 
Pend  d'Oreille,  where  the  river  is  compressed  between  walls  of  solid  rock  about  one  hundred  feet 
high,  and  where  the  river  could  readily  be  spanned  by  a  single  arch,  it  could  then  cross  the  river 
and  continue  down  on  its  left  bank.  After  reaching  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake  it  could  readily  skirt 
the  eastern  and  southern  shore,  until  it  reached  a  southern  prolongation  of  the  lake,  which 
extends  about  twenty-five  miles  in  the  direction  of  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mission,  and  from  that 
fact  is  called  the  Cceur  d'Alene  bay.  From  the  upper  end  of  this  bay  to  the  Coeur  d'Alene 
lake  there  is  said  to  be  a  very  gentle  rise,  and  a  divide  so  low  that  it  might  readily  be  passed 
over  by  a  traveller  without  notice.  From  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake  to  the  valley  of  the  Spokane 
there  is  a  good  natural,  almost  level  grade. 

The  Cabinet  mountain  might  require  tunnelling  for  three  hundred  yards,  fifty  per  cent,  rock, 
basalt  trap;  though,  by  a  careful  adjustment  of  the  line  of  approach,  tunnelling  may  be  dispensed 
with  without  involving  a  grade  greater  than  forty  feet.  Both  Clark's  fork  and  the  Pend 
d'Oreille  lake  are  subject  to  freshets,  fifteen  feet  being  about  the  difference  of  level  between  high 
and  low  water  marks,  which  would  make  it  necessary  that  the  road  should  keep  the  sides  of 
the  hill,  or  that  high  embankments  should  be  used. 

The  summit  separating  Clark's  fork  and  Spokane  river,  and  the  summit  of  the  Great 
Spokane  plain,  are  both  about  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  level  at  which  these  two  rivers  are 
crossed.  The  opportunities  afforded  for  side-hill  location  prevent  the  use  of  objectionable 
grades. 

The  mountain  region  ends  near  the  crossing  of  Spokane  river. 

The  earth  excavation  and  embankment  will,  throughout  this  section,  be  large  in  amount,  and 
expensive.  The  very  best  quality  of  material  for  a  durable  road-bed  is  met  with  all  along  the 
line.  The  hill-sides  discover  the  disintegrated  fragments  of  the  different  rocks,  and  the  bottom 
lands  of  the  rivers  afford  abundance  of  gravel  for  a  road  passing  through  them.  With  the  general 
character  of  the  excavation,  and  with  the  opportunities  afforded  for  good  ballasting,  the  road-bed 
of  this  section  may  be  of  a  superior  quality. 

In  all  the  mountain  valleys,  the  deep  side-hill  cuttings  will  frequently  expose  the  rock,  and  the 
bulk  of  the  rock  excavation  in  the  entire  railroad  route  will  be  in  this  section.  The  tunnel  al  the 
Rocky  mountain  divide  will  probably  be  through  solid  rock,  and  it  is  possible  that  one  or  two 
small  tunnels  may  be  required  at  other  points. 

The  approaches  to  the  tunnel  at  the  Rocky  mountain  divide  can  be  made  with  a  grade  ot 
forty  feet  per  mile,  and  an  undulating  grade  of  forty  to  fifty  feet  will  be  required  throughout 
Blackfoot  River  valley.  The  ascent  from  Blackfoot  river  to  the  summit  divide,  between  the 
Bitter  Root  and  Jocko  rivers,  can  be  made  with  a  fifty-feet  grade,  and  with  great  care  in  the 
location  the  descent  westward  can  be  made  with  a  sixty-feet  grade.  This  declivity  of  sixty  feet 
per  mile  is  the  highest  required  in  all  this  section,  and  in  a  mountain  country  cannot  be  considered 
a  high  grade.  On  this  inclination  a  train  can  descend  with  safety  without  the  application  of 
its  brake,  and  without  the  use  of  its  motive  power  ;  so  that  while  there  is  a  loss  of  power  in  the 


LINE   FROM   BASE   OF   THE   MOUNTAINS    TO    PUGET    SOUND.  123 

ascent,  there  is  a  gain  in  the  descent.  The  natural  descent  of  the  valley  of  Clark's  fork,  as 
already  stated,  is  about  eleven  feet  per  mile.  In  general  the  road  need  not  much  exceed  this, 
as  in  all  mountain  valleys  an  undulating  grade  will  be  necessary.  The  passage  from  the  valley 
of  Clark's  fork  to  the  Spokane  river,  and  in  like  manner  from  the  Spokane  river  to  the  summit 
of  the  Spokane  plain,  is  made  with  a  forty-feet  grade. 

The  bridge  and  culvert  work  will  be  very  extensive,  and  greater  in  this  section  than  in  any 
other.  With  the  possible  necessity  of  crossing  Blackfoot  river  several  times,  it  includes  the 
bridging  of  the  many  small  mountain  tributaries  which  make  into  that  river,  the  crossing  of 
the  principal  fork  of  Jocko  river,  all  of  them  of  small  volume,  but  rapid  and  liable  to  freshets,  and 
some  of  them  to  be  crossed  higher  above  their  water-level ;  two,  and  perhaps  four  crossings 
of  Clark's  fork,  with  a  width  of  from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred  yards;  the  crossing  of  Pack 
river,  a  small  stream,  making  into  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  which  will  probably  be  with  a  long 
causeway,  leaving  sufficient  water-way  for  the  passage  of  the  river,  and  the  crossing  of  Spokane 
river.  The  latter  river,  where  crossed  by  the  train,  has  a  width  of  one  hundred  and  seventy  yards. 
The  bridge  crossing  will  not  be  so  long. 

The  woods  with  which  this  region  is  covered  are  a  species  of  yellow  pine,  of  excellent  quality 
for  lumber;  larch  of  large  size;  white  cedar  of  large  size;  spruces  and  firs,  with  a  mingling 
of  the  bitter  cotton-wood  in  the  river  bottoms ;  scattering  white  birches,  and  other  and  smaller 
trees.  For  fuel  and  construction  wood  is  abundant,  convenient,  and  of  good  quality.  I  believe 
that  the  only  coal  observed  was  a  single  isolated  specimen  found  by  Mr.  Tinkham,  in  the  bed  of  a 
tributary  of  Clark's  fork,  and  out  of  place. 

Of  building-stone  the  mountain  regions  contain  vast  quantities,  which  undoubtedly  will  be  made 
accessible  when  the  necessity  for  their  use  comes.  Perhaps  the  most  convenient  and  valuable 
which  will  be  found,  are  a  hard  stratified  limestone  and  granite.  The  first  was  noticed  in  the 
mountains  northeast  of  Flathead  lake,  but  it  is  probably  to  be  obtained  elsewhere,  and  more  con 
veniently  ;  and  the  second  was  observed  at  the  head  of  Bitter  Root  river.  While  the  most  of  the 
stones  exposed  in  the  progress  of  the  excavations  may  prove  unsuitable  for  building  purposes, 
there  is  every  probability  that  some  of  them  will  be  found  available  for  such  uses.  Good  granite 
is  also  found  on  the  Columbia. 

The  limestone  referred  to  is  apparently  a  carbonate,  and  suitable  for  the  manufacture  of  lime. 

Clear  sand  is  frequently  met  with  on  the  line.  It  was  observed,  in  abundance,  in  the  valley 
of  Clark's  fork,  and  it  is  to  be  obtained  from  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  and  elsewhere. 

Pure  cool  water  is  lavishly  supplied  by  the  mountain  streams. 

The  road-way,  for  nearly  the  whole  of  this  section,  will  have  to  be  cleared  and  grubbed. 

With  the  attainment  of  the  summit  of  the  Spokane  plain,  or,  as  I  have  termed  it,  the  Great 
Plain  of  the  Columbia,  the  timbered  and  wooded  country  ceases  until  the  line  enters  the  firs  of 
the  lower  Columbia,  two  hundred  and  sixty-five  miles  farther  on.  For  a  while  the  pine  region 
skirts  the  route  on  the  east,  but  in  a  half  day's  journey  from  the  summit  disappears  from  view 
altogether. 

The  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  which  for  about  one  hundred  miles  the  railroad  traverses 
before  striking  the  Columbia  river,  resembles  a  rough,  rocky  prairie.  Descending  towards  the 
Columbia,  and  entering  its  valley  above  the  mouth  of  Snake  river,  the  Columbia  has  a  width 
of  from  four  hundred  to  four  hundred  and  fifty  yards  ;  the  banks  are  low,  and  the  approaches  per 
fectly  good.  Near  this  point  must  deflect  any  route  which,  seeking  a  more  direct  passage  to  the 
sound  than  is  afforded  by  the  Columbia  river,  shall  cross  the  Cascade  range  by  one  of  the 
passes  at  the  head  of  Yakima  river. 

On  the  Columbia  the  line  is  for  most  of  the  way  located  on  the  bottom  lands  of  the  river,  and 
will  rarely  be  forced  from  them  to  the  rocky  bluffs  bordering  its  intervale.  To  the  Dalles  the 
bottom  lands  of  the  river  have  a  width  of  from  one-quarter  to  three  miles.  Bluffs,  with  a  nearly 
uniform  height  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  limit  the  bottom  lands,  and  are  the  slopes  abruptly 


124  LINE   FROM   BASE   OF   THE   MOUNTAINS   TO   PTJGET   SOUND. 

terminating  a  grand  plateau  of  five  or  ten  miles  in  width,  gently  sloping  to  the  north,  and 
reaching  to  a  wooded  ridge,  running  nearly  parallel  with  the  river.  Numerous  small  streams  rise 
in  this  ridge,  and,  cutting  the  plateau  into  deep  ravines,  are  eventually  discharged  into  the  Colum 
bia.  Passing  down  the  Columbia  from  Wallah-Wallah  to  the  Dalles  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  the  party  of  Mr.  Tinkham  found  it  necessary  in  only  two  instances  to  cross  the  rocky  spurs 
jutting  out  from  the  river  bluffs.  The  grades  for  the  balance  of  the  route  to  the  sound  will  be 
very  easy,  and  the  work  light;  the  heavy  work  being  the  rock-cutting  where  the  bluffs  encroach 
upon  the  river,  the  extra  provision  needed  to  preserve  the  embankments  from  the  wash  of 
freshets,  and  the  possible  necessity  of  a  short  tunnel  at  Cape  Horn.  The  bluffy  country  border 
ing  on  the  Columbia  ceases  near  Cape  Horn.  From  below  the  Dalles  the  woods  commence,  and 
so  continue  to  the  head  of  Cowlitz  river.  The  wide  and  comparatively  flat  and  wooded  valley 
of  the  Cowlitz  connects  with  plains,  sometimes  of  prairie,  and  sometimes  of  woodland,  extending 
to  Fuget  sound,  which,  although  not  fully  explored,  are  sufficiently  well  known  to  insure 
the  unusually  favorable  character  of  the  country  for  the  construction  of  a  railway. 

The  earth  excavation  and  embankment  will  not  probably  exceed  the  heaviest  work  of  the 
prairies  east  of  the  mountains,  and  is  estimated  not  to  exceed  an  average  of  seven  to  eight  feet. 
The  material  for  the  embankment  is  almost  always  of  a  superior  character.  The  Great  Plain 
of  the  Columbia,  and  the  valley  of  the  Columbia,  afford  a  great  deal  of  loose,  pebbly  matter 
from  the  disintegrated  fragments  of  the  trap  rock,  which  will  frequently  be  found  to  be  of  much 
value.  Sand  in  portions  of  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  covers  extensive  plains,  and  fine  gravel 
plains  characterize  the  Cowlitz  valley  and  the  intervale  to  the  sound. 

The  amount  of  rock-cutting,  with  the  exception  of  the  portion  of  the  line  between  the  Dalles 
and  Cape  Horn,  will  be  very  small.  A  portion  of  the  excavation  on  the  first  part  of  the  Spo 
kane  Plain  will  be  rock ;  occasional  rock-cuttings  will  be  required  in  the  Columbia  River  valley, 
and  a  small  tunnel  of  seven  hundred  feet  in  length  may  be  required  at  Cape  Horn.  The  rock 
in  this  region  is  generally  a  basaltic  trap. 

No  grade  higher  than  forty  feet  will  be  necessary  in  this  section,  and  for  nearly  the  whole  dis 
tance  the  gradients  will  be  very  gentle.  The  average  declivity  of  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  is 
inconsiderable,  being  less  than  two  feet  per  mile.  Cowlitz  river  has  a  small  descent  per  mile. 

As  a  whole,  the  culvert  work  will  be  very  small  in  amount,  falling  chiefly  upon  that  portion 
embracing  the  tributaries  of  the  Cowlilz,  and  the  small  streams  making  down  from  the  western 
slopes  of  the  Cascades.  The  great  item  in  bridging  is  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia  river, 
near  Wallah-Wallah.  But  little  data  is  obtained  for  this  crossing ;  but  if  the  river  be  bridged 
near  the  mouth  of  Snake  river,  as  indicated  on  the  map,  the  approaches  are  here  favorable,  and 
the  length  of  the  bridge  will  be  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  Further  careful  examina 
tion  is  required  to  determine  the  best  position  for  the  crossing. 

The  route  for  nearly  one-half  of  this  section  is  through  woodlands;  the  balance  is  destitute 
of  wood  on  the  immediate  line  of  the  road.  The  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  and  the  Colum 
bia  river  bottoms  as  far  down  as  the  Dalles,  lack  wood.  Thence  forward  to  Puget  sound  the 
route  is  through  heavy  forests,  principally  of  the  fir  and  cedar,  and  abounding  with  valuable 
lumber.  There  will  be  little  difficulty  in  furnishing  the  line  with  all  lumber  required  in  its  con 
struction.  The  interval  in  the  Spokane  Plain,  wholly  destitute  of  trees,  is  about  110  miles  in 
extent ;  rests  on  extensive  districts  of  pine,  cedar,  larch,  &c.,  at  its  eastern  edge ;  and  on  the 
west,  touches  on  the  water  of  the  Columbia,  reaching  north  into  a  wooded  country,  and  offering 
easy  opportunity  tor  rafting  logs  and  lumber  from  above. 

The  wooded  ridge  beginning  at  about  thirty  miles  distance  from  the  mouth  of  Snake  river,  and 
running  nearly  parallel  with  the  Columbia  at  five  or  ten  miles  distance  from  it,  is  densely  covered 
with  a  large  growth  of  timber,  probably  corresponding  with  the  mixed  growth  of  pines,  firs, 
&c.,  on  the  eastern  base  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  with  which  it  finally  connects.  From  the 
ease  with  which  this  growth  can  be  reached  from  the  Columbia,  and  the  facilities  afforded  by 


LINE   FROM   BASE   OF   THE   MOUNTAINS   TO   PUGET   SOUND.  125 

* 

the  river  for  bringing  down  lumber  from  above,  no  difficulty  can  be  felt  in  supplying  the  portion 
of  the  line  on  the  bottom  lands  until  the  wooded  lands  are  again  entered  near  the  Dalles. 

But  little  is  yet  known  about  the  most  suitable  places  for  obtaining  building-stone.  Stone  is 
found  in  places  along  the  whole  line — generally  the  trap  or  granite  rocks.  Probably  the  only 
work  for  which  stone  will  be  required,  other  than  such  as  shall  be  found  near  the  place  of  con 
struction,  is  the  bridge  across  Columbia  river,  near  Wallah- Wallah.  Captain  McClellan  states 
that  "  good  granite  is  found  on  the  Columbia  about  140  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima ; 
it  may  occur  at  a  less  distant  point."  Dr.  Suckley  observed  good  building-stone  along  the 
whole  line  of  the  Columbia. 

Clean  sand  is  noticed  near  the  crossing  of  Columbia  river,  and  on  the  bottom  lands  of  Colum 
bia  and  Cowlitz  rivers,  and  will  be  obtained  conveniently  all  along  the  line. 

The  Spokane  Plain,  at  a  few  points,  is  sparingly  watered;  but  there  will  not  be  found  any 
difficulty  in  making  suitable  provision  for  water  for  the  use  of  the  road.  For  the  balance  of  the 
route  this  scarcity  does  not  exist,  and  water  is  generally  quite  as  abundant  as  is  desirable. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

Comparison  of  the  Distances  on  Several  Routes. 

The  several  distances  to  Horse  Plain,  where  the  three  routes  by  the  Bitter  Root  river,  the 
Jocko,  and  by  the  cut-off  from  the  point  of  departure  in  the  Blackfoot  pass,  are  respectively 
143  miles,  136  miles,  and  111  miles.  The  route  by  the  Bitter  Root  river  will  be  adopted  in  sub 
sequent  comparisons. 

The  whole  length  of  this  route  from  St.  Paul,  by  Little  Falls,  the  Grand  Coulee,  the  Milk 
River  valley,  the  northern  approach  by  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass,  by  the  Blackfoot  River  valley, 
and  the  three  several  routes  as  above,  by  Clark's  fork,  the  Columbia  and  Cowlitz  rivers,  to 
Seattle,  will  be  2,052,  2,045,  and  2,020  miles,  respectively;  and  by  the  Yakima  valley  and 
Snoqualme  Pass,  will  be  1,897,  1,890,  and  1,860  miles.  It  is  probable  that  further  surveys  will 
reduce  these  distances  thirty  to  fifty  miles.  By  going  through  the  Marias  Pass,  the  distance  will 
be  about  the  same. 

A  route  down  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains  would  give,  respectively,  1,975  and  1,829  miles. 

From  Little  Falls  the  distances  are — 

To  Lake  Superior 125  miles. 

St.  Paul 112     » 

Chicago 435     "  (via  Stillwater  and  Madison.) 

And  the  distances  from  Seattle  of  the  two  routes  to  these  three  points  will  be,  in  tabular  form,  as 
follows  : 

Snoqualme  Pass.  •  Columbia  and  Cowlitz. 

To  Lake  Superior 1,902  miles 2,058  miles. 

St.  Paul 1,890     "     2,045     " 

Chicago , 2,213     "      2,368     " 

The  following  table  gives  a  comparison  between  the  two  routes  from  St.  Paul  to  Seattle,  or 
Puget  sound,  by  the  Columbia  and  Cowlitz,  and  by  the  Snoqualme  Pass: 

Snoqualme  Pass.  Columbia  and  Cowlitz. 

Length  of  route 1,890  miles 2,045  miles. 

Summit  level 5,300  feet    5,300  feet. 

Distance  when  road  is  4,000  feet  or  more  above  sea 86  miles 86  miles. 

Distance  when  road  is  3,000  to  4,000  feet  above  the  sea      206      "     206  " 

Distance  when  road  is  2,000  to  3,000  feet  above  the  sea      957      "    932  " 

Distance  when  road  is  1,000  to  2,000  feet  above  the  sea  1,692      "     1,564  " 

Distance  when  road  is  less  than  1,000  feet  above  the  sea      174      "    488  " 

Length  of  tunnels 9.32      "    (long  tunnel)  2.59  " 

4.86      "   (short  tunnel) 

Grades  50  to  60  feet 20      " 

"      30  to  50  feet 600       "     580  " 

0  to  30  feet 1,246       "     1,472 

It  is  assumed  that  any  route  to  Oregon  by  the  South  Pass  must  make  the  Great  Salt  lake  set 
tlement  in  its  course,  descending  into  its  valley  by  the  Timpanogos  river,  and  that  it  will  pass 
west  of  the  Great  Salt  lake. 


COMPARISON   OP   THE   DISTANCES   ON   SEVERAL   ROUTES.  127 

It  is  not  believed  that  any  route  will  be  found  leading  from  the  good  passes  at  the  sources  ot 
the  tributaries  of  the  Bitter  Root,  and  those  of  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone,  and  the  upper  valley 
of  the  Bitter  Root,  to  the  Little  Salmon  river,  and  thence  to  the  Columbia,  which  will  come  into 
competition  with  that  of  Clark's  fork.  It  is  possible,  however,  that  a  route  from  the  western  fron 
tier  of  Missouri  and  Iowa  may  be  found,  which,  passing  through  the  Black  Hills  and  one  of  these 
good  passes,  will  more  readily  reach  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  and  the  waters  of  the  sound 
than  by  the  South  Pass. 

Assuming  Council  Bluffs  as  the  point  of  departure  of  such  a  route,  the  distances  wiU  be  re 
spectively  to  Seattle,  by  the  Columbia  river  and  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  as  follows : 

Black  Hill  and  Northern  Pass.  South  Pass. 

Council  Bluffs  to  Seattle,  by  the  Snoqualme  Pass 1,997  miles 2,128  miles. 

"  "        by  the  Columbia  river 2,183      "     2,283     " 

This  examination  is  an  important  one,  especially  if  the  South  Pass  prove  a  difficult  and  almost 
an  impracticable  line.  A  comparison  of  the  profile  of  the  northern  route,  and  that  by  the  South 
Pass,  establishes  the  superiority  of  the  former,  not  only  in  the  lower  elevation  of  the  range 
itself,  but  of  a  large  space  of  country  adjacent  thereto.  The  information  furnished  by  the  surveys 
of  Colonel  Fremont  and  Captain  Stansbury  makes  it  probable  that  the  Great  Salt  Lake  valley 
must  be  a  point  of  any  route  to  the  Columbia  river,  through  the  general  region  of  the  South  Pass, 
and  that  it  can  but  be  reached  by  the  river  Timpanogos,  which  flows  into  Lake  Utah,  at  a  point 
about  fifty  miles  south  of  the  Great  Salt  lake. 

The  Golden  Pass,  a  pass  a  few  miles  to  the  north,  and  the  Weber  river,  still  farther  north,  will 
probably  afford  practicable  passes.  It  is  possible  that  the  valley  of  the  Bear  river,  as  far  as  Soda 
springs,  (where,  from  flowing  in  a  direction  a  little  to  the  west  of  north,  the  river  turns  suddenly 
to  the  south,)  and  thence  to  Snake  river,  in  the  general  direction  of  Fort  Hall,  would  afford  a 
feasible  route.  The  elevation  of  Soda  springs  is  5,738  feet  above  the  sea;  that  of  Fort  Hall 
4,700  feet;  the  distance  is  about  fifty  miles,  and  an  intermediate  range,  probably  at  least  500 
feet  high,  would  have  to  be  crossed.  From  the  height  of  the  summit,  on  the  direct  line  to  Fort 
Hall  from  the  Great  Salt  lake,  about  6,400  feet  above  the  sea,  a  route  in  this  general  direction 
would  be  difficult.  It  will  require  thorough  examinations  in  subsequent  surveys,  and  is  alluded 
to  in  this  connexion  in  explanation  of  my  adopting  the  Great  Salt  Lake  valley  as  a  point  of  the 
route.  The  river  Timpanogos  is  adopted  as  the  best  entrance  into  the  valley. 

The  importance,  however,  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  settlement  as  a  point  in  the  communication 
across  the  continent  cannot  be  over-estimated,  and  the  feasibility  of  routes  through  that  region 
both  to  San  Francisco  and  Puget  sound  should  be  ascertained  by  actual  examination. 

Before  proceeding  to  the  plan  of  construction,  and  other  matters  of  a  general  character,  I  will 
endeavor  to  show  that  no  obstructions  need  be  apprehended  from  snow,  and  at  a  subsequent  part 
of  my  report  I  will  allude  to  the  governmental  measures  required  to  guard  against  the  hostilities 
of  the  Indian  tribes. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

Meteorology  of  the  Field  Explored. 

The  meteorology  of  the  field  covered  by  the  exploration  is  one  of  the  most  interesting,  as  it 
is  one  of  the  most  important  subjects  of  inquiry.  It  is  not  obstructed  by  deep  snow,  nor  is 
the  temperature  as  low  as  has  been  generally  imagined.  There  is  a  great  depression  in  the 
whole  mountain  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  the  higher  plateaus  being  nearly  three  thousand, 
and  the  lower  two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea;  whereas,  at  the  41st  parallel,  the  higher 
plateaus  are  six  thousand,  and  the  lower  and  more  general  ones  are  four  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  greatest  elevation  of  the  Rocky  mountains  is  south  of  the  South  Pass, 
in  latitude  39°  to  40°,  where  the  Platte,  the  Rio  Grande,  the  Arkansas,  and  the  Colorado  of  the 
Gulf  of  California  have  their  rise.  The  mountain  chain  then  rapidly  declines  to  near  the  48th 
parallel.  The  temperature  of  the  Rocky  mountains  at  this  parallel  is  as  mild  as  any  part 
down  to  the  35th  parallel  of  latitude.  Moreover,  on  the  western  coast,  the  prevailing  westerly 
winds  and  the  currents  of  the  Pacific  ocean,  similar  to,  though  less  known  than  the  Gulf 
Stream,  have  modified  the  climate  to  such  a  degree  that  the  isothermal  lines  run  nearly  parallel 
to  the  coast,  making  the  climate  of  Puget  sound  nearly  if  not  quite  as  mild  as  that  of  San 
Francisco,  and  causing  it  to  correspond  with  that  of  the  western  coast  of  Europe  in  the  same 
latitude.  Puget  sound  and  Vancouver's  island  are  strikingly  like  Ireland  and  West  Shetland  in 
temperature;  the  first  locality  having  a,  mean  temperature  for  July  of  65°,  while  Dublin  has  but 
60°,  and  the  British  islands  range  from  57°  to  63°.  At  Sitka,  in  Russian  America,  the  mean  of 
winter  at  35°,  and  the  summer  mean  of  56°,  correspond  to  the  north  of  Ireland  and  Scotland. 
The  effect  of  this  amelioration  of  temperature  not  only  extends  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  but  is 
felt  on  the  eastern  slope  and  for  some  distance  .on  the  plains,  where,  in  turn,  it  is  met  by  the 
temperatures  from  the  Atlantic  sweeping  over  the  vast  interior  continental  areas,  growing  some 
what  colder  till  the  western  end  of  Lake  Superior  and  the  Red  river  settlement  of  the  north  is 
reached,  and  then  growing  milder  till  it  meets  the  temperatures  from  the  Pacific  at  an  equilibrium. 

As  regards  the  distribution  of  rain  and  snow,  much  of  the  moisture  is  deposited  before  reaching 
this  high  latitude,  except  on  the  coast,  where  there  is  a  large  local  precipitation ;  and  the  Cas 
cades  mountains  of  Oregon  and  Washington  arrest  much  of  the  rain  that  would  be  distributed 
farther  in  the  interior,  especially  in  winter;  and,  as  a  consequence,  the  Rocky  mountains  in  that 
latitude  have  little  winter  precipitation,  and  the  plains  eastward  have  still  less.  The  general 
plateau  from  the  head  of  the  Mississippi  westward,  to  and  including  the  Rocky  mountains,  has 
indeed  the  least  winter  precipitation  of  any  portion  of  the  continent,  and  can  furnish  no  accu 
mulation  of  snow  from  the  two  or  three  inches  of  water  falling  in  a  frozen  state  in  the  winter 
months. 

The  latitude  is  too  high  up  for  a  large  amount  of  precipitation,  except  near  the  coast.  The 
great  summer  precipitation  of  the  upper  portion  of  the  Mississippi  valley  shows  the  line  of  pro 
fuse  rains  to  be  at  its  farthest  point  northward  there  at  that  season  of  the  year.  On  the  plains 
it  extends  farther  north  into  British  America,  and  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  it  stretches  from 
Sitka  northward  nearly  over  the  whole  line  of  the  coast. 

From  these  general  facts  of  distribution  of  the  water  falling  in  rain  and  snow  in  the  extreme 
seasons,  the  observed  facts  of  the  winter  climate  of  the  interior  are  seen  to  have  merely  their 
natural  place.  Little  accumulation  of  snows  can  exist  in  the  interior  of  these  latitudes,  at  what- 


METEOROLOGY  OF  THE  FIELD  EXPLORED.  129 

ever  elevation ;  and  none  of  the  elevations  are  such  as  to  give  extreme  temperatures,  or  to  break 
the  force  of  the  general  modifying  influences  here  referred  to. 

With  but  few  results  of  recent  observation  in  the  shape  of  mean  temperatures,  or  measures 
of  amount  of  rain  and  snow,  a  few  statements  comprising  such  stations  as  have  been  observed 
are  given  in  a  tabular  form.  Their  general  significance  may  here  be  mentioned.  In  the  first, 
the  mean  temperatures  for  the  last  five  years  are  given  at  the  stations  most  nearly  in  a  line  from 
Fort  Snelling  westward.  In  this  series  Fort  Clark  and  Fort  Union,  of  the  Missouri,  are  given 
as  observed  at  an  earlier  date,  as  no  recent  observations  are  at  band  from  these  posts,  and  they 
are  much  needed  to  fill  up  the  line.  The  observations  at  Fort  Benton  of  December,  and 
those  of  the  St.  Mary's  valley  of  January  and  February,  are  combined ;  the  remaining  obser 
vations,  (hough  made  and  their  general  character  known,  not  being  at  hand. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  mean  temperatures  increase  rapidly  westward  for  all  parts  of  the  year, 
except  the  summer  months,  though  the  latitude  constantly  increases,  and  the  elevation  also, 
except  at  the  immediate  coast  of  the  Pacific.  Thus,  for  the  winter  months,  five  years'  observa 
tions  at  Fort  Snelling,  one  year  at  Fort  Clark,  (two  months'  observations,)  one  winter  at  Fort 
Union,  one  winter  at  Fort  Benton  and  St.  Mary's,  three  winters  at  Lapwai  on  the  Kooskooskia 
river,  we  have — 

Fort  Snelling,  latitude  45° temperature  13°  3 

Fort  Clark,  latitude  47° »              14°.5 

Fort  Union,  latitude  48° "             23°.8 

Fort  Benton,  latitude  47°  26' »              2G°.l 

St.  Mary's,  .latitude  46°  30' "             26°.l 

Lapwai,  latitude  46°  30' "             36°.9 

Fort  Benton  will  be  a  little  colder,  and  St.  Mary's  milder. 

In  the  second  table,  extremes  of  temperature  for  each  month  of  1853,  and  for  three  months  of 
1854,  are  given.  These  follow  the  same  law. 

In  the  third  table,  winter  temperatures  are  compared  for  the  last  three  winters.  In  this  table 
Milwaukie,  Buffalo,  and  Boston  are  added,  to  extend  this  comparison  through  known  districts  to 
the  Atlantic.  The  lowest  winter  temperatures  are  at  Fort  Snelling;  and  the  line  extending  west 
ward  from  this  point  has  higher  temperatures  than  that  extending  eastward  to  the  Atlantic,  and 
this  by  a  large  measure  of  difference. 

Another  comparison  is  made  of  stations  on  the  meridians  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  plateau. 
These  are  detached  and  few,  but  they  show  striking  uniformity  of  winter  temperatures, over  the 
whole  plateau,  though  the  extreme  points  thus  compared  differ  by  twelve  degrees  of  latitude. 

In  a  general  table  the  amount  of  precipitation  in  rain  and  snow  is  given,  for  a  series  of  sta 
tions,  in  the  line  of  the  first  temperature  comparisons.  Fewer  stations  are  embraced  than  in  the 
first  case,  and  Fort  Laramie,  in  latitude  42°,  is  used  as  a  representative  of  the  district  of  the 
upper  Missouri.  It  differs  only  in  giving  a  larger  precipitation  than  is  found  northward  in  the  same 
longitudes.  An  important  point  of  comparison  here  is  wanting,  in  measuring  the  contrasts  in 
precipitation  of  the  mountain  regions  in  different  latitudes.  Observations  of  a  general  character 
supply  some  facts  here,  but  there  are  no  precise  measures.  The  general  laws  of  climatology 
before  referred  to  embrace  all  that  may  be  properly  introduced  here.  These  results  have  been 
arrived  at  by  combining  with  the  observations  of  the  exploration  ihose  of  the  Smithsonian  Institu 
tion,  and  those  of  the  military  posts  reported  to  the  Surgeon  General's  office.  With  these  general 
observations,  I  will  proceed  to  give  a  more  particular  view  of  the  manner  in  which  the  meteoro 
logical  field  was  occupied,  and  of  the  results  which  have  been  established. 

For  these  tables,  and  for  valuable  suggestions  in  reference  to  the  climatology  of  the  region  tra 
versed,  I  am  indebted  to  Professor  Blodget,  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 

The  observations  for  altitude,  by  the  barometer,  were  made  throughout  the  day  at  each  charac- 
IT/ 


130  METEOROLOGY    OP   THE   FIELD   EXPLORED. 

teristic  change  on  the  base-line  of  the  survey,  and  at  important  points  off'  the  line,  to  gain  the 
contour  of  the  country.  Each  engineer  party  was  provided  with  its  barometer,  and  careful  com 
parisons  were  made  at  night.  Occasionally  the  results  were  tested  by  the  usual  levelling  instru 
ment.  Fixed  stations  were  established  at  Fort  Benton,  Fort  Union,  and:Cantonment  Stevens  in 
the  St.  Mark's  valley,  at  Vancouver,  and  at  Olympia.  Observations  were  also  made  for  compar 
ison  at  Fort  Snelling  and  St.  Louis.  The  final  discussions  will  be  made  by  the  officers  of  the 
Smithsonian  Institution,  and  in  connexion  with  the  large  body  of  observations  made  in  all  parts 
of  the  country  under  their  direction. 

30.00  is  assumed  as  the  altitude  of  the  mercurial  column  at  the  level  of  the  sea  for  the  work 
of  the  portion  east  of  the  Cascades  ;  and  a  fraction  over  thirty  inches,  the  result  of  live  months' 
observation  at  Vancouver,  for  the  altitude  at  that  place.  It  is  believed  the  results  given  in  the 
profiles  will  be  found  sufficiently  near  the  truth,  in  the  final  discussion,  to  be  relied  on  in  the  pre 
liminary  computation. 

Much  attention  has  been  given  to  ascertain  the  circumstances  of  the  snows  and  freshets  of  the 
whole  country  passed  over,  both  by  inquiries  from  all  reliable  sources  and  from  actual  observation 
by  winter  parties.  I  am  able  to  give  conclusive  reasons  to  show  that  no  obstructions  whatever 
need  be  apprehended  from  snow  at  any  point  of  the  route.  From  the  plateau  of  the  Bois  de  Sioux 
and  the  Red  river  of  the  North  to  Lake  Superior,  two  feet  is  a  large  quantity  of  snow,  though 
winters  have  been  known  when  the  snow  was  considerably  deeper.  The  winters  are  dry,  the 
weather  clear  and  bracing,  with  little  or  no  wind.  The  mercury,  though  occasionally  it  falls  to 
a  very  low  point,  is  seldom  below  zero.  The  coldest  day  of  the  \vinter  of  1852-'53.  February  8, 
the  mercury  fell  to  25°  below  zero,  and  the  winters  are  from  four  to  four  and  a  half  months  long. 
Frosts  seldom  occur  before  October.  The  fall  climate  is  remarkably  fine. 

The  Hon.  H.  M.  Rice,  the  delegate  from  Minnesota,  has  often  travelled  in  winter  from  St.  Paul 
to  Crow  Wing,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  with  a  single  horse  and  sled  and  without 
a  track,  and  has  never  found  snow  deep  enough  to  impede  his  progress.  From  Crow  Wing 
he  has  gone  to  the  waters  of  Hudson's  bay  on  foot,  without  snow-shoes.  During  one  winter  he 
travelled  through  that  region,  finding  the  snow  seldom  over  nine,  and  never  over  eighteen  inches 
deep.  For  several  years  he  had  trading-posts  extending  from  Lake  Superior  to  the  Red  river  of 
the  North,  from  46°  to  49°  north  latitude,  and  never  found  the  snow  too  deep  to  prevent  supplies 
from  being  transported  from  one  part  to  another  with  horses.  One  winter,  north  of  Crow  Wing, 
in  latitude  47°,  he  kept  sixty  head  of  horses  and  cattle  without  feed  of  any  kind,  except  what 
they  could  procure  themselves  under  the  snow.  Voyageurs  travel  all  winter  from  Lake  Superior 
to  the  Missouri  with  horses  and  sleds,  having  to  make  their  own  roads;  and  yet,  with  heavy  loads, 
are  not  deterred  by  snows.  Lumbermen,  in  great  numbers,  winter  in  the  pine  regions  of  Min 
nesota  with  their  teams;  and  the  snow  is  never  too  deep  to  prosecute  their  labor.  Occasional 
winters  the  snow  is  not  over  six  inches  deep.  The  average  close  of  navigation  of  the  upper  Mis 
sissippi  for  the  last  five  years  is  November  26,  and  the  average  first  spring  arrival  April  8. 

The  Hon. .H.  H.  Sibley,  the  last  delegate  from  Minnesota,  also  a  most  experienced  voya- 
geur,  states  that  the  snow  seldom  exceeds  fourteen  or  fifteen  inches,  and  he  has  known  two  or 
three  winters  in  succession  when  there  was  not  snow  enough  for  tolerable  sleighing. 

Alexander  Culbertson,  Esq.,  the  great  voyageur  and  fur-trader  of  the  upper  Missouri,  and  who 
for  the  last  twenty  years  has  made  frequent  trips  by  land  from  St.  Louis  to  Fort  Benlon,  has 
never  found  the  snow  drifted  enough  to  interfere  with  travelling.  The  average  depth  of  snow  is 
twelve  inches,  and  frequently  the  snow  does  not  exceed  six  inches. 

The  letter  of  Mr.  Rice  and  extracts  from  those  of  Mr.  Sibley  and  Mr.  Culbertson  are  ap 
pended,  for  a  more  full  view  of  the  winter  climate  of  the  region. 

At  St.  Paul,  the  coldest  days  of  six  winters  are  as  follows: 

1845-'46 below  zero  18° 

1846-'47.,  "         27 


METEOROLOGY    OF   THE    FIELD    EXPLORED.  131 

1S47-'4S  ...........................................................  below  zero  28° 

184S-'49  .........................................................  .  ,  "         37 

1849-'50  ...........................................................  «          31 

1S50-'51  ...........................................................  " 


At  Pernbina,  on  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  and  just  under  the  49th  parallel,  the  winter  climate 
is  somewhat  colder  than  at  St.  Paul,  the  mercury  freezing  once  or  twice  during  each  winter. 
The  spirit  thermometer  has  shown  a  temperature  of  52°  below  zero.  The  navigation  of  the 
Red  river  closes  from  the  1st  to  the  15th  November,  and  opens  from  the  10th  to  the  25th  of 
April. 

Westward  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  the  climate  becomes  milder  and  the  quantity  of  snow  is 
less.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Fort  Union,  the  fall  of  snow  is  light;  and  the  Missouri  gener 
ally  freezes  from  the  20th  of  November  to  the  1st  of  December,  and  breaks  up  about  the  1st  of 
April.  Through  the  courtesy  of  the  officers  of  that  post,  observations  of  the  temperature,  and  of 
the  occurrence  of  ice  and  snow,  will  be  kept  for  many  months,  which  will  hereafter  give  the 
means  of  developing  still  further  the  meteorology  of  that  region. 

At  Fort  Benton  the  climate  is  comparatively  mild.  But  little  snow  falls,  and  the  Fur  Com 
panies  who  have  occupied  that  position  for  twenty  years  always  carry  their  goods  to  their  trading 
posts  in  winter,  on  the  Milk  and  Marias  rivers,  in  wagons.  They  have  a  post  on  the  Milk  river 
and  at  the  forks  of  the  Marias,  the  former  about  seventy-five  miles  from  Fort  Benton,  a  little 
to  the  east  of  north,  and  the  other  about  one  hundred  miles  in  a  north-northwest  direction.  Even 
on  a,  line  much  farther  north,  the  quantity  of  snow  is  not  excessive.  Thomas  Simpson,  from 
December  1,  1836,  to  February  1,  1837,  made  a  journey  of  1,277  miles,  on  a  route  between 
latitudes  50°  and  -  ,  from  the  Red  river  to  Fort  Chipewayan,  on  Lake  Athabasca, 
taking  in  his  route  Forts  Pelby  and  Curlton.  The  weather  was  mild  till  December  16,  and  no 
snow  of  consequence  was  on  the  ground  till  December  14.  At  Fort  Pelby,  near  the  source  of 
the  Assiniboin  river,  the  temperature  on  December  19th  fell  to  44°  below  zero.  The  route  to 
Carllon,  which  was  reached  on  the  30th  December,  was  over  a  rolling  country,  affording  food  at 
times  to  countless  herds  of  buffalo,  the  weather  being  intensely  cold.  Thence  to  Fort  Chipe 
wayan  the  route  was  through  a  wooded  and  most  picturesque  country,  the  weather  at  times  mild 
and  rainy,  the  snows  of  the  valleys  soft,  and  the  depth  at  Lake  Athabasca  about  three  feet.  The 
probable  depth  from  Fort  Carltori  to  this  point  was  from  two  to  three  feet. 

I  experienced  great  difficulty,  both  at  Fort  Union  and  Fort  Benton,  in  getting  information  as  to 
the  snows  in  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  as  to  the  period  when  they  were 
practicable  for  horses.  Even  at  Fort  Union  the  employes  of  the  expedition  were  disturbed  by 
assurances  from  the  half-breeds  in  that  vicinity,  that  they  would  find  the  snow  knee-deep  before 
reaching  Fort  Benton,  and  that  the  Rocky  mountains  would  be  impassable. 

At  Fort  Benton  most  diligent  inquiry  was  made  of  the  members  of  the  Fur  Companies  and  of 
the  Blackfeet  Indians.  No  person  was  found  who  had  ever  crossed  the  mountains  later  than 
the  first  days  of  November,  or  earlier  than  the  first  days  of  April.  The  general  opinion  was  that 
the  snows  were  some  twenty  feet  deep  from  November  till  April,  and  sometimes  till  May.  But 
as  no  person  could  speak  from  positive  observation,  it  became  necessary  to  determine  the 
question  experimentally. 

Winter  posts  were  therefore  established  at  Fort  Benton  and  in  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  under 
the  direction  of  Mr.  James  Doty  and  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and,  in  accordance  with  his  own 
original  suggestion,  Lieutenant  Grover  was  directed  to  leave  Fort  Benton  in  January,  and  cross 
the  ranges  to  the  Pacific  with  a  dog  train. 

On  reaching  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  information  was  received  from  the  Flathead  Indians  that 
the  passes  were  generally  practicable  with  horses  throughout  the  winter.  There  has  been  no 
communication  whatever  between  Fort  Benton  and  the  St.  Mary's  valley.  The  Flatheads  never 


132  METEOROLOGY   OF   THE   FIELD   EXPLORED. 

visit  Fort  Bcnton,  and  the  Blackfeet  Indians  go  to  the  valley  only  to  steal  horses.  Victor,  the 
Flathead  chief,  assured  me  that  his  people  always  recrossed  the  mountains  in  December  or 
January,  generally  between  Christmas  and  New  Year — men,  women,  and  children — with  their 
horses  laden  with  meat  and  buffalo  robes.  It  was  only  in  a  winter  of  extraordinary  severity, 
and  at  rare  intervals,  that  they  could  not  cross  in  January  and  February.  I  also  learned  that  the 
Washington  Territory  Indians  went  to  the  hunt  in  October  and  November,  and  returned  in 
February  and  March.  This  information  has  since  been  confirmed  by  myself  and  the  gentlemen 
of  my  party  meeting  many  hundreds  of  these  Indians  on  their  way  to  the  plains,  and  ascertaining 
from  them  and  the  fathers  of  the  mission  their  customs  in  this  respect. 

In  order  to  give  as  wide  a  range  as  possible  to  the  general  field  of  exploration,  and  to  accu 
mulate  information  on  this  interesting  question,  Mr.  Tinkham  was  sent  back  to  Fort  Benton  with 
orders  to  return  by  a  more  southern  trail  to  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  and  thence  to  take  the  south 
ern  Nez  Perces  trail  to  Wallah- Wallah,  and  thence  by  the  military  road  over  the  Cascades  to 
NisquaJly.  This  last  order  was  modified,  and  he  was  directed  to  cross  the  Cascades  by  the 
Snoqualme  Pass. 

Expresses  were  also  sent  from  the  Columbia,  by  Clark's  fork,  to  the  St.  Mary's  valley, 
through  the  winter,  and  the  condition  of  the  snows  ascertained  during  December,  January, 
and  February. 

The  results  may  be  summed  up  as  follows:  In  the  Rocky  mountains  the  greatest  average 
depth  of  snow  found  by  Lieutenant  Mullan,  from  the  2Sth  of  November  to  the  ]0th  of  January, 
was  only  twelve  inches,  and  that  only  for  a  short  distance  over  the  divide.  On  the  divide  from 
the  Jefferson  fork  to  Snake  river  the  snow,  though  only  twelve  inches  deep,  was  occasionally 
drifted  from  two  to  three  feet  deep. 

In  this  period  he  made  an  exploration  to  Fort  Hall,  going  and  returning  on  different  routes, 
crossing  the  mountains  four  several  times,  and  making  an  aggregate  distance  of  more  than  seven 
hundred  miles.  The  mountain  region  thus  crossed  was  from  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  to  the  Hell 
Gate  river.  On  the  divide  leading  to  the  Hell  Gate  river,,  there  was  but  two  inches  of  snow 
on  the  31st  of  December.  I  will  call  attention  to  the  circumstance  that,  on  the  divide  from  the 
Three  Forks  to  the  Salmon  river,  Lieutenant  Mullan's  guide  found  but  three  feet  of  snow  in 
the  winter  of  1852-'53 — a  season  remarkable  for  the  great  quantify  of  snow  which  fell — and 
that  he  crossed  it  in  the  winter  with  his  horses. 

The  grass,  except  from  the  Snake  River  divide  to  Fort  Hall,  was  rich  and  luxuriant  in  the 
valleys.  The  weather  was  as  cold  as  in  many  parts  of  the  New  England  States;  the  ther 
mometer  falling  in  some  cases  to  28°  below  2ero. 

On  the  27th  of  January  Lieutenant  Mullan  writes  me  that  Victor,  with  the  Indians  of  his  own 
and  other  tribes,  were  crossing  the  mountains  from  the  buffalo  plains. 

In  March  Lieutenant  Mul'an  went  to  Fort  Benton  by  the  southern  and  Little  Blackfoot,  and 
returned  by  the  northern  Little  Blackfoot  Pass,  finding  but  ten  inches  on  the  first  pass  and  no 
snow  on  the  second  pass. 

Lieutenant  Grover,  after  his  survey  of  the  upper  Missouri,  remained  at  Fort  Benton  through  the 
month  of  December,  during  which  month  the  Missouri  had  been  obstructed  only  a  day  or  two 
with  ice.  He  left  Fort  Benlon  on  the  second  day  of  January,  no  snow  having  fallen  till  the  pre 
vious  evening,  and  crossing  the  divide  by  Cadotte's  Pass  he  found  but  one  foot  of  snow  on  the 
divide  and  on  the  Blackfoot  trail ;  thence  to  Wallah- Wallah,  which  he  reached  on  the  fourth  day  of 
March,  he  found  little  or  no  snow  in  the  valleys  and  on  the  prairies  till  he  reached  Thompson's 
prairie,  on  Clark's  fork.  From  this  point  his  course  was  through  a  densely  wooded  country, 
and  the  snow  gradually  increased  in  depth  till  at  the  distance  of  fifty  miles  it  reached  the  depth 
of  two  feet,  and  remained  about  this  depth  till  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake, 
where  it  began  to  decrease,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  lake  was  only  one  foot  deep.  On 
the  shores  oi  the  lake  the  snow  continued  to  decrease,  and  occasionally  a  line  field  of  grass  was 


METEOROLOGY  OP  THE  FIELD  EXPLORED.  133 

found.  From  the  crossing  of  Clark's  fork  to  the  Cceur  d'Alene  prairie,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles, 
the  route  was  through  a  wooded  country,  and  the  snow  was  two  and  a  half  feet  deep  and  very 
hard.  On  leaving  the  forest  for  Cceur  d'Alene  prairie,  the  snow  disappeared,  the  grass  was  good, 
and  no  difficulty  whatever  was  experienced  in  reaching  Wallah-Wallah.  I  will  call  attention  to 
the  influence  of  the  forests  in  preserving  the  depth  of  snow,  and  to  its  entire  disappearance,  from 
being  two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  immediately  on  reaching  the  prairies,  and  this  on  the  23d  of  Feb 
ruary.  On  this  same  route,  in  January  the  snow  was,  in  the  woods,  not  over  one  and  a  half  foot 
deep,  and  there  was  little  or  no  snow  on  the  prairies.  A  track  opened  for  a  wagon  or  a  railroad, 
would  not  have  been  encumbered  at  any  point  with  over  a  foot  of  snow  the  entire  winter. 

In  this  connexion  it  will  be  well  to  advert  to  the  large  quantities  of  horses  and  cattle  at  Fort 
Bcnton,  in  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  and  in  the  several  prairies  on  Clark's  fork,  which  are  alluded  to 
by  Lieutenants  Grover  and  Mullan  as  being  fat  in  the  middle  of  winter. 

The  average  temperature  found  by  Lieut.  Grover  from  January  2d  to  January  llth,  before 
leaving  the  plains  to  ascend  to  the  dividing  ridge,  (he  reached  the  ridge  at  noon  January  12th,) 
ten  days,  was  20°. 9  ;  and  whilst  going  through  the  pass  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  from  January  llth 
to  January  21st,  eleven  days,  was  10°.4  below  zero.  From  January  31st  to  March  2d,  on  his 
journey  to  Wallah- Wall  ah,  the  average  temperature  was  33°.3. 

It  must  be  remarked,  however,  that  Lieut.  Grover  crossed  the  divide  and  was  in  the  pass  du 
ring  the  coldest  weather  of  the  winter  ;  that  on  the  22d  day  of  January,  after  entering  the  St. 
Mary's  valley,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  was  only  1°  above  zero,  while  at  about  the  same 
point  on  the  31st  of  January  it  was,  at  sunrise,  55°  above  zero,  and  at  Cantonment  Stevens  it 
ranged,  from  January  27th  to  January  31st,  from  29°  to  46°. 

That  Lieut.  Grover  crossed  the  divide  at  the  coldest  season  is  confirmed  by  corresponding  ob 
servations  at  many  other  points.  The  period  of  greatest  cold  marched  steadily  eastward  last 
winter,  it  requiring  some  four  or  five  days  to  reach  the  Atlantic  from  the  head  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  six  days  from  Fort  Benton. 

The  following  tables  of  comparisons,  both  for  the  cold  period  of  eleven  days  in  the  pass  and 
for  the  comparatively  mild  period  of  ten  days  approaching  the- pass,  show  that  the  tempera  lure 
of  the  pass  was  6°.6  milder  than  that  of  Pembina,  but  T9C°  colder  than  that  of  Lacquiparle,  and 
some  7°. 4  colder  than  that  of  Oldtown,  Maine  ;  and  that  the  temperature  of  the  plateau  reaching 
from  Fort  Benlon  to  the  pass  was  2°. 6  milder  than  the  corresponding  mild  period  of  the  same 
stations,  stretching  from  the  Red  river  of  the  North  to  Nova  Scotia.  In  the  appendix  will  be 
found  a  temperature  chart  illustrative  of  these  facts. 

Comparison  of  eleven  days  crossing  the  Rocky  mountains  with  the  corresponding  temperatured 
periods  in  a  line  towards  the  Atlantic : 

Crossing  the  Rocky  mountains 12th  tp  22d  January,     — 10°.l 

Pembina,  Red  River   valley 13th  to  24th         "  — 17°.7 

Fort    Ripley 14th  to  24th          «  -14° 

Lacquiparle,  Minnesota , 14ih  to  24th          "  -   9°.2 

Fort  Snelling 14th  to  24th          «  —  9°.3 

Madison,  Wisconsin , 16th  to  25th         "  +    4°.4 

Fort    Ridgeley 14th  to  24th         "  —  7°.3 

Pittsburg 14th  to  24th         «  +23° 

Rochester 16th  to  25th         "  +21°.8 

West  Point ]  6th  to  25th          "  +25°.8 

A  mherst,  Massachusetts 17th  to  26th         «  +20°.7 

Oldtown,  Maine 18th  to  28th         "  —  2°.7 

Albion  Mines,  Nova  Scotia 18th  to  29th         "  +  7° 

Montreal 18th  to  29th  -  1° 

St.  Johnsburg,  Vermont 18th  to  29th         "  +   l°.l 


134  METEOROLOGY    OF   THE   FIELD    EXPLORED; 

Comparison  often  clays  before  reaching  the  summit  with  the  corresponding  temperature  periods 
eastward  : 

Between  Fort  Benton  and  the  Rocky  mountains 2d  to  11th  January,      -f24° 

Pembina,  Red  River  valley " 3d   to  12th  «  +5° 

Fort  Snelling 4th  to  13th  «  +  7°.7 

Fort  Ripley 4th  to  13th  «  +  3°.9 

Lacquiparle,  Minnesota 2d  to  12th  "  +  13°.6 

Fort  Ridgeley 4lh  to  12th  »  +   8°.5 

Madison,   Wisconsin 4th  to  13th  «  +17°.5 

Pittsburg 4th  to  13th  "  +32°.4 

Rochester 4th  to  IGth  "  +30°.4 

West  Point. 5th  to  16th  »  +32° 

Amherst,  Massachusetts Cth  to  16th  "  -f27°.4 

Oldtown,  Maine 6th  to  ISth  "  +  14°.2 

Albion  Mines,  Nova  Scotia Gth  to  ISth  "  +  20°.4 


Mean 2l°.4 

24°.0 

2°.G 


Mr.  Tinkham  met  with  no  snow  on  the  Marias  Pass  till  the  day  aftercrossing  the  divide,  October 
21st,  when  a  few  inches  fell.  His  course  back  was  by  the  Little  Black  foot  trail,  and  the  snow 
was  about  an  inch  or  two  deep  in  the  divide.  On  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail  over  the  Bitter 
Root  mountains,  the  snow  was  six  feet  deep  for  one  hundred  miles  or  more.  This  trail  is  from 
one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  south  of  the  railroad  line.  This  depth  of  six  feet  oc 
curred  in  December,  when  there  was  but  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  in  the  passes  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  the  divide  being  at  least  7,500  feet  high,  and  it  covered  a  much  greater  extent  of 
country.  The  snows  are  of  an  entirely  different  character,  being  wet  and  compact,  and  the  tem 
perature  much  milder  than  in  the  Rocky  mountain  divide. 

Mr.  Tinkham's  passage  of  the  Cascades  on  the  21st  January  furnishes  the  only  observations  we 
possess  as  to  the  depth  of  snow  in  that  range.  Crossing  after  mid-winter,  he  found  for  six  miles 
the  snow  six  feet  deep,  with  occasional  depths  of  seven  feet,  as  also  of  four  feet.  For  twenty 
additional  miles  the  snow  was  from  four  to  six  feet  deep,  and  for  twenty-five  miles  more,  two  to 
four  feet.  Of  this  depth  one  and  a  half  to  two  feet  fell  on  the  night  of  the  19th  and  20th  January, 
so  that  in  mid-winter  the. snow  was  but  four  to  five  feet  deep  in  the  divide.  This  snow  was  very 
light,  in  layers  of  one  and  a  half  to  two  feet,  and  Mr.  Tinkham  is  of  opinion  that  the  rains  of 
February  would  tend  to  make  the  snow  more  compact,  so  that  the  depth  would  diminish,  notwith 
standing  more  snow  fell,  making  the  pass  practicable  in  March.  I  will  particularly  refer  you  to 
his  report  for  the  details  of  his  interesting  trip,  and  the  conclusion  which  his  judgment  has  reached 
in  this  question.  I  discredit  the  evidence  of  Indians,  except  when  they  have  actually  made  per 
sonal  observations.  The  Indians  cannot  be  competent  witnesses  as  to  the  snow  being  six  or  ten 
feet  deep  in  one  place,  or  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  in  another,  lying  in  their  lodges  as  they  do 
all  winter,  and  seldom  ever  using  snow-shoes  at  all.  Early  in  January  the  Indians  at  the  Sno- 
qualme  falls  were  of  opinion  that  the  snows  in  the  pass  were  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  deep, 
where,  according  to  Mr.  Tinkham's  measurements,  making  the  allowances  for  the  intermediate 
fall  of  snow,  it  could  not  have  exceeded  four  or  five  feet.  Among  the  Yakimas,  Mr.  Tinkham 
was  h.irdly  able  to  get  shoes  enough  for  his  party,  and  none  were  found  among  the  Snoqualme 
Indians  on  the  other  side.  It  was  with  difficulty  he  could  get  guides,  and  was  in  consequence 
detained  two  days;  yet  he  was  assured  by  them  that  the  snow  in  the  pass  would  only  be  up  to, 


METEOROLOGY   OF    THE    FIELD    EXPLORED.  135 

or  perhaps  a  little  above,  the  head  of  his  horse,  and  he  got  the  impression  from  them  that  there 
was  more  snow  than  usual. 

I  have  no  question  that  there  are  exceptional  winters,  when  the  snow  may  for  short  distances 
considerably  exceed  the  depth  found  this  winter.  But  it  will  require  the  combination  of  some 
two  months'  weather  much  colder,  and  moisture  more  excessive,  than  the  average.  Thus  the  last 
two  winters  have  each  given  only  one  cold  month — January  last  winter,  and  February  the  winter 
before.  About  the  same  quantity  of  rain  and  snow  fell  each  month,  viz:  eight  inches  and  a 
fraction;  much  of  it  was  no  doubt  deposited  in  the  pass  in  snow.  I  am  of  opinion,  however,  that 
even  in  these  months  some  rain  fell  in  the  pass,  and  that  in  the  remaining  months  of  these  years 
it  fell  principally  in  rain.  I  am  aware  that  the  quantity  of  moisture  at  Steilacoom  is  not  the 
measure  at  the  pass,  where  it  must  be  much  less.  These  observations  are  conclusive,  however, 
relatively,  as  they  determine  the  quantity  of  moisture  deposited  in  the  sound,  to  which  the  moist 
ure  in  the  pass  must  have  definite  relation.  It  will  be  interesting  to  continue  these  observations 
through  a  term  of  successive  years. 

The  experience  of  Fort  Ben  ton  and  St.  Mary's  valley  is  full  of  significance  and  instruction. 
I  am  assured  by  Mr.  Pambrun,  the  chief  clerk  in  charge  of  the  Wallah- Wallah  post,  that  his  father 
took  a  band  of  horses  through  the  Nahchess  Pass  about  Christmas,  some  years  since,  and  I  inter 
rogated  one  of  the  employes  at  the  post,  who  actually  accompanied  Mr.  Pambrun,  sr.,  on  the 
occasion.  I  am  informed  by  respectable  gentlemen  on  the  sound,  that  it  is  no  uncommon  thing 
f^r  the  Indians  to  cross  the  Snoqualme  Pass  with  horses  in  mid-winter.  At  all  events,  the  In 
dians  who  accompanied  Mr.  Tinkham  in  January,  made  their  arrangements  to  recross  the  pass  in 
February.  They  cached  their  snow-shoes  at  the  upper  end  of  iNook-noo  lake,  eighteen  miles 
west  of  the  summit,  thus  showing  that  they  did  not  expect  much  increase  of  snow,  and  they  de 
sired  to  take  the  foot-trail  referred  to  by  Captain  McClellan,  assuring  him  there  would  be  less 
snow  than  in  the  usual  horse-trail.  Moreover,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  snow  was 
in  unusual  quantities  in  the  cascades  the  last  year.  It  is  well  known  that  a  much  larger  quantity 
of  snow  was  deposited  on  the  shores  of  Puget  sound.  Careful  observations  of  the  temperature, 
and  of  the  amount  of  water  falling  in  rain  and  snow,  have  been  taken  for  a  consecutive  period 
of  five  years  at  Fort  Steilacoom,  and  the  result  has  been  that  more  water  was  deposited  the  last 
year  than  the  average  of  five  preceding,  but  that  more  must  have  been  deposited  in  snow.  A  com 
parison  of  the  three  winter  months,  for  the  past  five  winters,  shows,  at  Fort  Steilacoom,  a  deposit 
of  20.68  inches  the  last  winter,  against  20.22,  20.86,  19.39,  and  22.10,  for  four  previous  win 
ters:  adding  the  month  of  November,  it  shows  39.09  against  26.39,  23.88,  24.53,  and  31.52  ;  or 
throwing  out  February,  in  order  to  bring  the  comparison  as  near  as  practicable  to  Mr.  Tinkham's 
crossing  of  the  pass,  we  have  31.52  this  year  against  23.15,  18.45,  23.06,  and  26.69.  The  av 
erage  temperature  of  the  three  winter  months  is  38.3  for  this  year,  against  37.3,  43,  39.6,  and 
37.1,  of  previous  years  ;  and  for  the  three  months,  November,  December,  and  January,  we  have 
40.1  this  year,  against  40.3,  44.1,  40,  and  40,  of  previous  years.  The  moisture  is  in  great  excess, 
nearly  fifty  per  cent.,  and  the  temperature  is  slightly  below  the  average.  In  November  last  the 
mean  temperature  was  but  1%-  of  a  degree  greater  than  in  December.  It  is  true  that  in  February  of 
this  year  there  was  nearly  as  much  moisture  deposited  as  in  January,  and  the  temperature  was 
only  1°.3  above  the  average  of  the  three  months.  It  is  greater  than  that  of  January  by  9°,  and 
less  than  the  average  of  November  and  December  5°. 3.  A  greater  proportion  of  snow  neces 
sarily  fell  in  that  month  than  in  November  and  December.  Moreover,  the  experience  of  the 
survey  of  Clark's  fork  corroborates  this. 

Excepting  for  about  six  or  seven  miles,  the  Snoqualme  Pass  is  at  a  much  less  average  elevation 
than  the  route  from  Thompson's  prairie  to  the  Cceur  d'Alene  prairie  ;  and  being  in  close  vicinity 
to  the  waters  of  the  sound,  the  temperature  must  be  higher.  The  average  temperature  down 
Clark's  fork,  where  the  snow  was  met  with,  from  Thompson's  prairie  to  Pend  d'Oreille  lake, 
and  from  the  crossing  of  Clark's  fork  to  the  Cceur  d'Alene  prairie,  was  about  32°  j  whereas 


136 


METEOROLOGY   OF    THE    FIELD    EXPLORED. 


during  the  same  period,  February  7  to  15,  and  February  19  to  24,  the  average  temperature  of 
Puget  sound  was  about  42°  ;  yet  the  snow  in  Clark's  fork  increased  nowhere  more  than  one 
foot,  and  that  uniformly  in  the  wooded  portion  of  the  route.  While  these  are  the  probable 
conclusions  from  what  is  known,  the  question  ought  not  to  be  considered  settled  till  further  exami 
nations  are  made. 

But  I  have  no  question  that  much  of  the  moisture  in  all  the  winter  months  is  deposited  in  rain 
in  the  mountain  passes;  and  this  conclusion  must  be  reached  by  every  observer  of  the  effect  of  the 
warm  rains  of  the  winter  on  the  surrounding  mountains,  causing  in  November,  in  December,  and 
in  February  (I  speak  of  what  was  observed  last  winter)  large  masses  of  snow  entirely  to  dis 
appear.  The  mountains  change  from  day  to  day.  The  whole  surface  of  the  mountain  slopes 
will  be  covered  one  day  with  snow,  and  the  next  large  portions  will  disappear,  in  consequence 
of  the  genial  rains. 

I  much  regret  that  Lieutenant  Grover  did  not  receive  my  orders  in  time  to  go  through  the 
pass  in  March. 

I  have  thus  fully  gone  into  the  reasons  which  have  convinced  me  that  there  will  not  be  suffi 
cient  snow  in  this  pass  to  obstruct  the  passage  of  cars,  and  that  frequently  the  pass  is  practicable 
for  horses  all  through  the  winter.  I  believe  a  wagon-road  can  be  used  through  that  pass  with  but 
little  labor  all  winter.  It  seems  to  me  that  the  conclusions  to  which  I  have  come,  from  actual 
observations,  are  to  be  drawn  ;  from  the  extreme  narrowness  of  the  mountain  range  at  the  pass, 
only  about  seven  and  a  half  miles  ;  from  its  absolute  altitude,  only  3,500  feet,  being  more  than 
2,3SS  feet  above  Vancouver ;  from  the  open  character  of  the  valleys  on  both  sides ;  and  from  the 
mild  character  of  the  climate  of  Puget  sound,  in  close  proximity,  causing  much  of  the  moisture 
to  be  deposited  in  rain.  Should  the  grades  be  found  good  on  the  western  slope,  of  which  I  am 
confident,  the  Snoqualme  Pass  must  furnish  the  entrance  to  the  sound  of  the  trunk  line  of  the 
northern  route ;  and  it  becomes  important,  to  satisfy  the  skeptical,  to  test  thoroughly  the  ques 
tions  of  snow  as  well  as  of  grades.  In  the  event  of  the  continuation  of  the  survey,  I  would  recom 
mend  establishing  a  winter  post  near  that  pass.  At  all  events,  it  is  unquestionable  that  no  obstruc 
tions  from  snow  exist  in  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  of  the  route  of  Clark's  fork, 
the  Spokane  plain,  the  Columbia  and  Cowlitz  valleys,  to  Puget  sound. 

For  more  information  in  reference  to  this  subject  I  will  refer  you  to  Lieutenant  Grover's  report 
of  his  winter  trip  from  Fort  Benton  to  Wallah- Wall  ah,  marked  I  36 ;  to  Mr.  Tinkham's  report, 
marked  I  37  ;  and  to  Mr.  Mullari's  report  of  his  reconnaissance  to  Fort  Hall,  marked  G  25 ;  as 
also  to  the  letters  of  Mr.  Rice,  Mr.  Sibley,  and  Mr.  Culbertson,  marked  I  38,  in  the  appendix. 


No.  1.— MEAN  TEMPERATURE  FOR  EACH  OF  THE  LAST  FIVE  YEARS. 
Fort  Sndliny — latitude  45°. 


qp 

u 

Years. 

•_ 

3 

3 

JB 

*j 

a 

ID 

,fi 

a 

a 

tt 

<o 

c 

a 

i« 

Oj 

(-, 

•'- 

t^ 

B 

tit 

3. 

O 

V 

a 

3 

B 

at 

03 

<S 

&, 

to 

3 

3 

s 

9 

O 

3 

3 

j^ 

o 

CM 

* 

•< 

« 

•-5 

-< 

02 

O 

to 

a 

CO 

02 

•4 

^ 

PH 

1849. 

5.4 

15.5 

31.2 

39.7 

54.8 

68.2 

71.6 

63.8 

61.5 

47.2 

41.6 

8.5 

41.6 

67.9 

50.1 

9.8 

42.3 

1850. 

14.0 

18.3 

24.2 

37.0 

55.1 

71.0 

76.6 

74.3 

60.8 

49.4 

33.7 

12.5 

42.  1 

74.0 

48.0 

14.9 

44.7 

1851  . 

14.9 

22.  1 

39.4 

50.1 

57.9 

67.8 

76.3 

68.4 

69.1 

52.  0 

30.1 

10.7 

49.1 

70.8 

50.  4 

15.9 

46.6 

1-58. 

12.7 

23.1 

26.5 

42.1 

58.2 

68.5 

72.7 

71.0 

53.8 

52.7 

25.  5 

11.8 

42.  3 

70.7 

44.0 

15.  9 

43.  2 

1853. 

15.2 

6.7 

23.0 

46.9 

53.9 

67.6 

70.6 

71.3 

60.0 

45.6 

29.6 

18.2 

41.3 

69.8 

45.1 

13.4 

42.4 

1854.. 

1.3 

15.4 

30.7 

48.6 



























Mean  . 

10.6 

16.8 

29.  0 

44.1 

56.  0 

68.6 

73.  6 

69.8 

61.0 

49.4 

32.1 

12.4 

43.0 

70.7 

47.  5 

13.3 

43.6 

METEOROLOGY. 


137 


No.  1 — Continued. 
Fort  Clark — latitude  47°. 


Years. 

£ 

03 

H 

03 
>-5 

February. 

,0 

3 

03 

3 

°C 

&! 
<3 

>, 

ec 

a 

6 
5 

1-5 

j>, 

"3 

l-j 

EC 

9 
< 

September. 

October. 

November. 

December. 

sio 

.9 
'C 
&< 
OQ 

Summer. 

Autumn. 

Winter. 

3 

D 
>< 

1833 

32  9 

21.3 

1834 

—  5  5 

23  8 

25  1 

Fort  Union  —  latitude  48°. 

1832 

52  0 

47.5 

66.2 

73.8 

1833.. 

21.3 

17.5 

32.5 

47.8 

52.1 

65.8 

73.5 

70.6 

58.4 

44  1 

70  0 

Fort  Benton—  latitude  47°  20'. 

1853 

53.3 

19.4 

33.0 

Cantonment  Stevens  —  latitude  46°  30'. 

1854.. 

13.9 

31.3 

St.  Mary's  Village—  latitude  46°  30'. 

1854 

35.4 

4 

Laptvai,  Kooskooskia — latitude  46°  30'. 


1837.. 

32.5 

37.5 

43.2 

56.0 

61.0 

67.7 

68.2 

71.0 

60.0 

48.2 

41.5 

40.0 

53.4 

69.0 

50.0 

36.7 

52.3 

1840.. 

38.0 

41.5 

42.2 

49.5 

54.0 

70.0 

72.0 

73.0 

68.0 

48.0 

41.5 

40.8 

48.6 

71.7 

52.5 

40.1 

f.3.  2 

1841 

2;\0 

Mean  . 

31.8 

38.5 

42.7 

52.7 

57.  5 

68.9 

70.1 

72.0 

64.0 

48.1 

41.5 

40.4 

51.0 

70.3 

51.2 

36.9 

52.3 

MEAN  TEMPERATURES  AT  STATIONS  IN  THE  NORTHWEST. 
Steilacoom,  Puget  sound — latitude  47°. 


1849 

48.1 

36.1 

1850.. 
1851.. 
1852.. 
1853.. 
1854 

35.7 
40.6 
44.1 
39.7 
30  6 

39.4 
40.8 
43.7 
39.8 
39  6 

41.2 
43.  2 
40.9 
41.9 

47.7 
51.5 
46.5 

48.7 

56.3 
54.4 

58.2 
57.6 

60.6 
61.2 
62.1 
60.4 

64.8 
63.9 
64.4 
66.5 

62.9 
66.3 
64.6 
62.1 

55.5 
57.0 
56.6 

58.5 

51.9 
52.9 
51.9 
53.6 

41.9 

47.0 
48.9 
45.2 

37.4 
41.1 
32.2 
44.6 

48.4 
49.7 
48.5 
49.4 

62.7 
63.8 
63.7 
63.0 

49.8 
52.3 
50.8 
52.4 

37.5 

40.8 
40.0 
41.4 

49.6 
51.7 
50.8 
51.5 

Mean. 

38.1 

40.7 

41.8 

48.6 

56.6 

61.1 

64.9 

64.0 

56.9 

52.6 

46.2 

38.3 

49.0 

63.3 

51.9 

39.0 

50.8 

Fort  Vancouver — latitude  45°  36'. 


1849 

35.3 

1850.. 
1851 

38.5 

38.3 

42.0 

57.8 

62.1 

62.2 

68.5 

67.2 

61.6 

64.5 

43.7 

36.1 
38.2 

44.0 

65.9 

53.3 

37.6 

50.2 

1  ftrv2 

44  g 

44  '\ 

42  8 

48  8 

60  9 

72  6 

54.  0 

45.1 

33.0 

50.8 

40.6 

1853.. 

1854 

37.8 

42.1 

38  0 

46.5 
45.  0 

54.2 

60.0 

63.3 

70.8 

64.0 

60.3 

53.5 

45.4 

41.8 

53.6 

66.0 

53.1 

40.6 

53.3 

Mean. 

40.  3 

40.7 

44.1 

50.3 

61.0 

66.0 

69.7 

65.6 

61.0 

54.0 

44.7 

36.9 

51.8 

67.1 

53.2 

39.3 

52.8 

18/ 


138 


METEOROLOGY.- 

No.  1 — Continued. 
Dalles  of  Columbia — latitude  45°  40'. 


c 

M 

>- 

Y,  .;r>. 

•t 

>> 

X 
3 

^ 

X> 

S 

V 

h< 

v 
.0 

0) 

^3 

a 

<a 

^3 

S 

O 

u 
« 

S 

d 

S 

^ 

e 

kJ 

3 

q 

33 

1-5 

ja 
« 
h 

K 

as 

S. 

S? 

s 

a 

3 

1-9 

"3 

-s 

st 

3 

ex 

SJ 

03 

o 
O 

§ 

S5 

3 

0) 

a 

EL 

| 
cc 

3 
<1 

a 

i 

03 

1850 

57.1 

53.4 

38.2 

31.3 

49.5 

1851 

37  9 

41  4 

46  7 

54.1 

42.2 

26.  I 

1853.. 

32.3 

37.1 

43.7 

53.4 

62.  1 

66.6 

74.9 

70.2 

63.7 

55.3 

42.1 

40.1 

53.1 

70.6 

53.7 

36.5 

53.5 

1854 

22  0 

«3^     Q 

46  0 

Mean  . 

30.7 

39.1 

45.5 

53.4 

62.1 

66.6 

74.9 

70.2 

60.4 

54.3 

40.8 

32.5 

53.7 

70.6 

51.8 

34.1 

52.5 

Fort  Hall,  Cantonment  Loring — latitude  43°. 


1849.. 
1850 

24.3 

24.1 

25.2 

42.7 







63.4 

59.6 

47.9 

31.7 

22.5 





47.4 





No.  2.— EXTREMES  OF  TEMPERATURE  OBSERVED  IN  1853-LOWEST  OBSERVATIONS. 


Place. 

b 

03 

03 
1-5 

February. 

March. 

*c 

03 

<D 

a 

s 

^ 

"3 
i-s 

be 

3 

September. 

October. 

November. 

December. 

Fort  Snelling*  

—15 

—24 

—15 

14 

34 

47 

54 

43 

40 

8 

3 

—  16 

Fort  Benton  

11 

—2 

-4-0 

Dalles  of  Columbia  

19 

10 

22 

33 

36 

43 

46 

47 

46 

25 

22 

26 

Fort  Vancouver  

25 

19 

21 

33 

40 

47 

50 

43 

42 

28 

31 

26 

Pugt  t  souud  

25 

20 

22 

34 

35 

47 

44 

43 

38 

29 

97 

23 

HIGHEST  TEMPERATURES  IN  1853. 


Fort  Snelling  

56 

46 

58 

67 

84 

86 

85 

90 

90 

73 

54 

47 

Fort  Benton  

80 

58 

60 

St.  Mary's  

52 

51 

Cantonment  Stevens  

52 

46 

Dalles  

50 

56 

67 

78 

94 

94 

105 

97 

88 

84 

59 

fill 

Fort  Vancouver  

51 

56 

67 

74 

89 

88 

91 

81 

84 

82 

59 

58 

Puget  souud  

55 

54 

62 

67 

87 

85 

94 

93 

83 

78 

59 

fiO 

EXTREMES  OF  TEMPERATURE  IN  1854— LOWEST  OBSERVATIONS. 


Fort  Snelling  

—  :?6 

—20 

3 

9 

Fort  Ridgeley  

—24 

—17 

12 

13 

Fort  Laramie  

—21 

8 

21 

Dalles  

—  16 

22 

27 

Fort  Vancouver  



20 

30 

Fort  Owen,  St.  Mary's  

—20 

13 

Cantontneiit  Stevens..  

—22 

14 

Puget  sound  

_  1 

22 

METEOROLOGY. 
No.  3.— COMPARISON  OF  TEMPERATURES  AT  42°  NORTH  LATITUDE  AND  NORTHWARD. 


139 


Winter  of  1852-'53. 

Winter  of  1853-'54. 

Winter  of  1851-'52. 

Place. 

9 

j 
s^, 

*; 

c 

tkt 

b        * 

u- 

.a 

b 

03 

^ 

>* 

05 

jj 

a             3 

02 

S 

03                  3 

® 

ti 

§      i      - 

a 

sj 

£ 

q 

o 

| 

J5 

a 

0 

« 

1-5 

£ 

£ 

0 

1 

t> 

£ 

a 

^^ 

PM 

f 

Puget  sound  

32.2 

39.7 

39.8 

37.2 

44.6 

30.6 

39.6 

38.3 

41.1 

44.1 

43.7 

43.0 

Fort  Vancouver  

33.0 

37.8 

42.  1 

37.6 

41  8 

31.0  j  38.0 

36.9 

38.2 

44.6 

44.3 

42.4 

Dalles  

26.1 

32.3 

37.1 

31.8 

40.  1 

22.  0     38.  9 

33.7 

Fort  Benton  

33.0 

1 



Cantonment  Stevens  

13  9     31.3 

26.1 

Fort  La  ramie  -  

21.6 

34.1 

29.7 

28.3 

33.7 

22.  6     36.  4 

30.  9 

24.7 

30.7 

33.0 

29.5 

Fort  Snelling  .  ,.   . 

11  8 

15  2 

fi  7 

11  2 

18  3 

13      15  4 

10  7 

10  7 

12  7 

23.0 

15.5 

Milwaukie  -  -.  

26.  5 

28.  1     23.  0 

25.  9 

26.0 

14.7  !  24.0 

21.6 

22.  0 

20.7 

28.0 

2:5.6 

Buffalo  

31.8 

2B.  2     27.  5 

28.5 

29.2 

25.  4     25.  6 

26.7 

21.3 

21.0 

26.0 

2-2.8 

Boston  

36.7 

27.  1     29.  2 

31.0 

28.0 

25.0 

25.0 

26.0 

22.8 

21.0 

28.0 

23.9 

No.  4.— COMPARISON  OF  STATISTICS  ON  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  PLATEAU  IN  DIFFERENT  LATITUDES. 


1852. 

1853. 

1854. 

Place. 

(A 

03 
S 

a 
a 

1-5 

b 

oS 

a 

& 

e 

E^i 

December. 

January. 

February. 

December. 

b 

S3 
3 

a 
<a 
i-s 

February. 

a 

e 

u 

X. 

% 

Santa  Fe  

29  6 

35  9 

30  1 

33  1 

28  0 

31  4 

28  7 

35  6 

41  4 

Fort  Massachusetts  

19.  4 

20  4 

18  8 

Fort  Defiance  

30  1 

29  5 

28  0 

28  6 

24  4 

33  7 

37  0 

Fort  Laramie  . 

30  7 

33  0 

21  0 

34  1 

29  7 

33  7 

22  6 

36  4 

36  9 

Fort  Hall*  

22  5 

24  3 

24  1 

Fort  Benton  

33  0 

St.  Mary's  

35.  4 

Cantonment  Stevens  

33.0 

13.9 

31.3 

*  December,  1849,  and  January  and  February,  1850,  are  used  at  this  station  as  the  only  existing  observations. 
No.  5.— AMOUNT  OF  WATER  FALLING  IN  RAIN  AND  SNOW  AT  FORTS  SNELLING  AND  LARAMIE. 


Years. 

January. 

February. 

March. 

•"E 

0. 

X 

S3 

1 

_>, 

~3 
>-! 

D 
MI 

3 
< 

September. 

October. 

November. 

December. 

tii 
^c 

o. 
CQ 

Summer. 

Autumn. 

Winter. 

£ 

fort  Laramie. 

1849  
1850  

0  30 

0  42 

1  31 

1  03 

1   41 

1  40 

1  80 

0  51 

0.21 
0  22 

2.72 
0  2° 

0.24 

0  28 

0.38 

3  75 

3.71 

3.17 
0.72 

0.72 

"aitw 

1851  

0  10 

0  16 

4  21 

0  33 

0  JP 

0  78 

0  42 

0  36 

5  -20 

8  84 

4.47 

1.43 

5.98 

8.84 

20.72 

185-2  
1853  

1.51 
0  08 

1.11 
0  57 

7.76 
1  "8 

1.25 
4  53 

7.29 
12  19 

4.08 

1.88 
1  86 

1.46 
0  55 

2.74 
2  £0 

1.75 

0  68 

6.43 
0  08 

1.23 
0  71 

16.30 
18  50 

7  42 
7.36 

10.92 
3.56 

3.84 
1.36 

38.47 
30.78 

1654  

0.18 

0.40 

0.80 

0  52 

0  63 

2  19 

1  74 

6  28 

2  69 

1  47 

0  82 

1  28 

1  15 

2  45 

2  23 

10  21 

4.98 

4.88 

3.38 

23.45 

Fort  Snelling. 
1850  

1  67 

0  83 

2  23 

2  60 

0  57 

4  62 

6  15 

2  97 

1  82 

0  32 

1  68 

0  04 

5.20 

13.74 

3.82 

2.54 

2S.30 

]851  

0  20 

0  13 

1  23 

2  68 

3  96 

2  15 

2  60 

3  29 

3  64 

1  18 

2  31 

0  10 

7.87 

8.04 

7.13 

0.43 

2J.47 

1852  

0  60 

0  14 

2  04 

2  49 

4  70 

0  08 

o  74 

0  89 

0  72 

0  82 

0  2-2 

0  27 

9.75 

4.43 

3.82 

2.8o 

^0.85 

1853  
1834  

6.72 

6.04 

1.03 

0.73 
2.51 

4.08 

7.89 

1.65 

2.57 

2.14 

0.56 

1.11 

12.11 

2.70 

Mean  

0.80 

0.28 

1.63 

2.20 

3.33 

3.68 

3.28 

2.43 

2.08 

0.58 

1.19 

0.38 

7.16 

9.39 

3.85 

1.40 

21.86 

Mean  for  15  years  

0.78 

0.62 

1.37 

2.30 

3.18 

3.40 

3.95 

2.86 

3.11 

1.22 

1.38 

0.58 

6.84 

10.21 

,7, 

2.00 

24.78 

140  METEOROLOGY. 

No.  5 — Continued. 

AMOUNT  OF  WATER  FALLING  IN  RAIN  AND  SNOW  AT  STATIONS  IN  THE  NORTHWEST. 


Year. 

January. 

February. 

March. 

1 

• 

c 
s 

"a 

1 
be 

3 

September. 

October. 

November. 

December. 

c 
OQ 

Summer. 

Autumn. 

Winter. 

i 

Pugrf  Soiiruf. 
1849                                         •  • 

9.42 

8.75 

1850             

8.52 

4.83 

6.70 

1.00 

0.30 

0.40 

0.20 

1.20 

9.40 

5.14 

2.6-2 

8.00 

0.60 

8.74 

15.97 

33.31 

1851  

15.30 

1.47 

2.20 

3.09 

1.93 

0.55 

0.36 

0.81 

2.68 

3.96 

3.02 

3.93 

7.24 

1.72 

9.66 

20.70 

39.32 

1852...    
1853  
1854  

11.50 
8.14 
8.69 

5.43 
3.24 

7.57 

5.12 
2.62 

3.34 
1.57 

0.12 
2.08 

0.82 
3.09 

0.93 
3.03 

1.78 
1.19 

1.02 
4.99 

3.72 
6.93 

6.17 
18.41 

8.84 
4.42 

8.58 
6.27 

3.53 
7.30 

10.91 
30.33 

25.77 
15.80 

48.79 
59.70 

Mean  

>0.  43 

4.51 

4.16 

2.25 

1.11 

1.29 

1.13 

1.26 

2.45 

4.25 

8.43 

5.71 

7.52 

3.68 

15.13 

20.65 

46.98 

Fort  Vancouver. 

6.00 

1850  
1851                              

6.66 
9.55 

2.60 
2.04 

6.70 
4.08 

6.40 

0.60 

3.82 

8.35 

"i'.w' 

7.70 

i9.52 

1852  
1853  
1854  

9.31 
9.30 

4.77 
4.21 
2.83 

4.26 
2.47 
1.22 

6.56 
1.72 

3.49 
2.30 

1.77 
0.90 

•6:36- 

•6:» 

•2:66- 

1.55 
3.66 

7.37 
11.57 

13.37 
3.22 

14.31 
6.49 

1.77 
1.59 

8.92 
17.23 

27.45 
16.73 

52.45 
42.04 

8.71 

3.29 

3.75 

2.89 

2.13 

2.16 

2.85 

0  20 

1.00 

2.61 

9.47 

7.63 

8.77 

5.21 

13.08 

19  63 

46.69 

Dalles  of  Columbia. 
1850  

'3'.  81 

...... 

0.10 



0.09 

0.91 

1.14 

0.19 

2.14 

..... 

1852  

0.25 

2.75 

8.01 

1853  
1854  

3.02 
2.79 

1.09 
0.73 

0.27 
0.36 

1.29 

0.62 

0.08 

0.61 

1.41 

0.24 

4.90 

0.95 

2.18 

0.69 

6.55 

5.06 

14.48 

. 

Mean  

3.21 

1.17 

0.81 

1.29 

0.62 

0.09 

0.31 

0.75 

0.47 

2.93 

3.05 

2.72 

0.40 

4.15 

7.43 

14.70 

Oregon  City. 
1849  

9.09 

1850  

11.48 

1851  

13.63 

3.43 

5.86 

3  13 

4.58 

0.40 

1.90 

1.96 

4.58 

4.09 

7.70 

13.57 

2.30 

10.63 

24.38 

50.88 

CHAPTER    XV. 

Plan  of  Construction  and  Details  of  the  Roads. — Estimate  of  Cost —  Use  of  Wagon  road 

in  connexion  with  Railroad. 

I  will  now  pass  to  the  plan  of  construction  and  the  estimate  of  the  cost  of  the  road. 

The  difficult  points,  those  which  are  obstacles  to  reaching  difficult  points,  and  the  portions 
passing  through  a  rich  country,  which  will  at  once  bring  remunerative  returns,  should  be  located 
and  attached  at  once. 

The  rich,  remunerative  portions,  are  the  country  east  from  the  Bois  des  Sioux  and  westward  to 
the  crossing  of  the  river  Jacques ;  the  valley  of  the  Mouse  river ;  much  of  the  country  from  Fort 
Benton  to  the  mouth  of  Milk  river  ;  the  region  of  the  Rocky  mountains;  a  portion  of  the  Spokane 
country  ;  the  greater  portion  of  the  Columbia  valley  ;  the  region  from  the  Columbia  to  the  sound, 
and  from  the  sound  back,  near  to  the  Cascades,  and  that  from  Seattle  to  the  Columbia  river. 

The  difficult  points  are  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  and  Cascade  mountains — the  former  involving 
a  tunnel,  the  latter  a  tunnel  by  the  Snoqualme,  or  a  large  quantity  of  rock-cutting  of  the  Colum 
bia  ;  the  rock-cutting  on  Clark's  fork,  and  the  heavy  embankments  and  cutting  in  the  Bitter  Root 
valley  towards  its  junction  with  Clark's  fork  at  Horse  Plains,  and  the  heavy  sustaining  walls  of 
the  defile  ending  in  Hell  Gate. 

Allusion  has  already  been  made  to  a  nearer  route  from  the  Bois  des  Sioux  to  the  favorable 
passes,  by  crossing  the  Missouri  and  the  Yellowstone,  as  well  as  to  a  connexion  believed  to  be 
practicable  through  the  Black  Hills  with  Council  Bluffs. 

For  a  route  from  Council  Bluffs  to  the  Columbia  valley  and  Puget  sound,  the  road  could  be 
operated  on  in  four  sections : 

1.  Council  Bluffs  to  crossing  of  Yellowstone. 

2.  Crossing  of  Yellowstone  to  mouth  of  Snake. 

3.  Snake  river  to  post  on  Columbia,  and  to  Puget  sound. 

4.  Columbia  valley,  by  the  line  of  the  Covvlitz,  to  Puget  sound. 

For  a  route  from  the  head  of  navigation  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Great  Lakes,  by  the  Bois 
des  Sioux,  the  crossing  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Yellowstone,  the  sections  will  be  : 

1.  St.  Paul  and  Lake  Superior  to  Little  Falls. 

2.  Little  Falls  to  Bois  des  Sioux. 

3.  Bois  des  Sioux  to  crossing  of  Missouri. 

4.  Crossing  of  Missouri  to  crossing  of  Yellowstone. 

5.  Crossing  of  Yellowston'e  to  mouth  of  Snake  river. 

6.  Snake  river  to  post  on  Columbia,  and  to  Puget  sound  by  Snoqualme  Pass. 

7.  Columbia  valley  by  the  line  of  the  Cowlitz  to  Puget  sound. 

The  route  explored  by  me  north  of  the  Missouri  will  have  sections  as  follows : 

1.  St.  Paul  and  Lake  Superior  to  Little  Falls. 

2.  Little  Falls  to  Bois  des  Sioux. 

3.  Bois  des  Sioux  to  vicinity  of  Fort  Union. 

4.  Fort  Union  to  mouth  of  Milk  river. 

5.  Mouth  of  Milk  river  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri. 

6.  Vicinity  of  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri  to  mouth  of  Snake  river. 


PLAN    OF    CONSTRUCTION    OF    ROAD. 

7.  Snnko  river  to  post  on  the  Columbia,  and  to  Puget  sound  by  the  Snoqualme  Pass. 

8.  Columbia  valley  to  Puget  sound. 

When  the  rail  is  laid  from  the  mouth  of  Snnke  river  to  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  and  the  rail 
pushed  from  the  vicinity  of  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri  to  the  tunnel  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
the  intermediate  portions  can  be  divided  into  two  sections:  1st.  From  tunnel  to  Horse  Plains. 
2d.  From  Horse  Plains  to  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  along  the  navigable  waters  of  Clark's  fork. 

It  is  also  possible  that  the  section  from  the  Bois  des  Sioux  to  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Union  can  be 
thrown  into  two  sections  by  a  spur-road  a  little  east  of  the  vicinity  of  Mouse  River  valley  from 
the  Missouri. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  the  route  north  of  the  Missouri  lends  itself  to  a  rapid  construction, 
from  the  facility  with  which  it  can  be  thrown  into  sections,  the  largest  being  from  the  vicinity  of 
the  Great  Falls  to  the  mouth  of  the  Snake,  which,  deducting  the  navigable  waters  of  Clark's  fork, 
will  be miles  in  length. 

The  longest  section  on  the  route  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  and  the  crossing  of  the  Missouri  and 
Yellowstone  and  of  the  Council  Bluffs,  will  be  from  the  crossing  of  the  Yellowstone  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Snake,  or  about miles. 

While  the  final  location  of  the  road  is  being  made,  all  the  arrangements  can  be  perfected  to 
operate  with  great  energy  simultaneously  on  the  different  sections.  Suitable  steamers  should  be 
constructed  for  the  Missouri  and  Columbia,  rails  laid  at  the  Cascades  and  the  Dalles  to  connect 
the  several  lines  on  the  Columbia,  and  spur-roads  built  where  necessary,  as  at  Mouse  River  valley, 
at  Fort  Union,  and  Fort  Benton. 

It  is  probable  the  Marias  ma}^  be  found  navigable  a  sufficient  distance  (it  is  said  to  be  navigable 
fifty  miles)  to  dispense  with  the  spur-road  at  Fort  Benton ;  and  especially  arrangements  be  made 
on  the  upper  Mississippi,  so  that,  partly  by  land  and  partly  by  water-carriage,  the  rails  can  at 
once  be  transported  to  the  Little  Falls,  and  the  road  go  both  eastward  and  westward  from  the 
Mississippi. 

With  these  arrangements,  all  the  sections  can  be  operated  on  simultaneously;  two  sections  along 
their  whole  line,  with  the  section  along  the  Columbia  river,  and  most  of  that  portion  of  the  first 
section  included  between  St.  Paul  and  Little  Falls. 

In  connexion  with  the  construction  of  the  road,  and  as  preliminary  thereto,  a  good  wagon  road, 
with  substantial  bridges  across  the  streams,  should  be  opened  throughout  the  whole  length  and 
on  the  line  of  the  road,  except  where  the  route  is  along  navigable  waters. 

Bends  which  grow  cotton-wood  might  be  planted  on  the  sides  of  the  road  where  fuel  is  wanting, 
and  water  brought  in  aqueducts  from  the  Coteau  du  Missouri  towards  the  river  Jacques,  and 
from  a  reservoir  at  the  Grizzly  Bear  lake  towards  Milk  river,  for  the  supply  of  laborers  and  emi 
grants.  The  water,  though  occurring  often,  and  in  sufficient  quantities  for  camping  purposes, 
would  have  to  be  transported  several  miles  to  portions  of  the  laborers  operating  on  the  line, 
and  thus  an  aqueduct  of  logs  would  be  the  most  economical  and  convenient  method  of  supply. 

Six  hundred  and  forty  acres  of  wood  planted  every  twenty  miles,  will,  in  fifteen  years,  yield 
fuel  enough  for  the  use  of  the  engines  doing  a  large  business  on  the  road. 

In  order  to  open  a  communication  as  rapidly  as  possible,  temporary  arrangements  may  be  made 
for  the  rail  in  advance  of  the  permanent  structure.  It  is  of  great  consequence  to  reach  points 
of  supply,  as  wood,  stone,  materials  for  blasting,  and  to  make  use  of  the  rails  for  moving  them 
when  they  are  required.  Zigzags,  and  inclined  planes,  and  detours,  may  be  used  over  the  Rocky 
and  Cascade  mountains  whilst  the  tunnels  are  being  completed.  Every  exertion  should  be  made 
to  give  such  direction  to  the  work  as  shall  enable  the  road  to  build  the  road.  The  question  of 
timely  preparation  of  depot  buildings  is  well  understood,  and  needs  simply  to  be  mentioned. 

It  is  estimated  that,  allowing  two  years  for  reconnaissance,  location,  and  making  the  necessary 
arrangements,  as  constructing  spur-roads,  establishing  the  line  of  steamers,  erecting  depot  build 
ings  and  making  the  contracts,  and  actually  getting  the  laborers  established  on  the  line  of  the  road, 


PLAN    OF    CONSTRUCTION    OF    ROAD.  143 

a  first-class  road  of  the  broad  gauge,  with  substantial  bridges,  could  be  constructed  in  five  years, 
with  the  single  exception  of  the  tunnel  through  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  should  the  long  one  be 
adopted,  and  that  for  this  tunnel  an  additional  year  would  be  required. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  wait  till  the  road  is  located  throughout  its  whole  extent  before  com 
mencing  operations  on  the  various  lines.  For  the  portion  east  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  with  a  vig 
orous  and  well-directed  party,  the  road  can  be  located  in  a  portion  of  one  season,  and  the 
whole  line  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and  some  one  hundred  miles  west,  be  actually  finished,  and 
the  cars  in  operation,  before  the  difficult  interior  sections  are  well  entered  on.  Rails  can  be  laid 
at  nearly  the  rate  of  one  mile  per  day,  and  the  grading  and  bridge  structures  over  the  crossing 
of  the  Mississippi  at  the  Little  Falls  are  comparatively  easy  and  unimportant. 

I  am  of  opinion,  that  in  two  years  after  vigorously  commencing  operations,  a  communication 
can  be  made  between  the  Columbia  valley  and  Puget  sound,  and  that  the  rail  can  be  laid  from 
the  post  on  the  Columbia  to  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  and  a  new  section,  the  third  year,  opened 
from  the  Horse  Plains;  and  that  the  vigorous  prosecution  of  all  the  sections  for  three  years  would 
enable  the  cars  to  be  put  in  motion  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  tunnel  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
and  from  the  post  on  the  Columbia  to  some  distance  beyond  Horse  Plain. 

This  consideration  gives  importance  to  the  Jocko  route,  which  is  shorter  and  has  less  difficult 
work  than  the  Bitter  Root  route.  Assuming  the  Jocko  route  as  a.  basis,  the  line  could  be  extended 
the  third  year,  reliable  arrangements  having  been  made  to  throw  laborers  ahead  and  accom 
modate  them  on  different  points,  to  the  crossing  of  Clark's  fork,  by  the  Jocko  route. 

Thus,  allowing  two  years  for  locating,  in  three  years  a  thorough  communication  could  be 
established,  except  for  the  link  extending  from  the  Rocky  mountain  tunnel  to  the  crossing  of 
Clark's  fork,  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 

The  wagon  road,  already  adverted  to  as  indispensable  along  the  whole  line,  should,  the  third 
year,  be  constructed  into  a  first-class  stage  road,  and  the  fourth  year,  with  the  aid  of  stage 
coaches  moving  one  hundred  miles  a  day,  (perfectly  practicable  with  good  roads,  relays  of  horses 
every  ten  miles,  and  the  supplies  of  forage  which  the  beautiful  valleys  of  the  St.  Mary's  alone 
can  furnish,)  a  thorough  communication  can  be  established  by  which  passengers  from  New  York 
can  reach  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  in  nine  and  San  Francisco  in  twelve  days.  In  two  more 
years  the  whole  line  will  be  opened  for  the  rail.  If  a  practicable  route  can  be  got  through  the 
Cascades  with  the  short  tunnel,  the  trunk  line  to  Puget  sound  will  be  opened  at  the  same 
time.  If  with  the  long  tunnel  one  year  more  will  be  required. 

It  must  be  observed,  as  regards  these  two  tunnels,  they  each  can  be  operated  upon  in  nearly 
equal  sections  ;  and  that,  as  regards  time,  the  principal  difference  will  be  the  greater  length  of 
that  shaft  of  the  long  tunnel,  which  must  be  sunk  before  the  sections  are  operated  on. 

In  estimating  the  cost  of  the  road,  I  have,  from  the  Bois  des  Sioux  to  the  Rocky  mountains, 
added  twenty-five  per  cent,  to  the  cost  at  eastern  prices,  and  thence  to  the  Pacific  forty  per 
cent.  This  will  be  an  ample  allowance  for  the  increased  price  of  labor  and  of  the  transportation 
of  supplies. 

The  following  details   of  construction   are  the  basis  of  the  estimate  :    Tunnels  to  be  made  for 

a  double  track,  and  have  a  cross  section  of  .     The  gauge  of  the  road  to  be  six  feet.     The 

road-bed  to  be  elevated  four  feet  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  three  feet  \vest  of  the  mount 
ains,  and  the  work  in  all  respects  to  be  of  the  most  substantial  character.  The  weight  of  rail 
to  be  seventy  pounds  to  the  yard.  The  bridging  and  culverts  to  be  of  stone  or  durable  timber. 

From  St.  Paul  to  the  Bois  des  Sioux : 

This  passes  essentially  through  a  prairie  and  well-wooded  country,  with  no  expensive  bridging 
or  culvert  masonry,  or  heavy  excavations  and  embankments.  This  portion,  making  allowance 
for  the  broad  gauge  and  increased  care  in  road-beds,  will  not  cost  more  than  existing  roads  in 
Illinois  and  Wisconsin. 


144  ESTIMATE    OF   COST    OF    ROAD. 

ESTIMATE. 

240  miles,  at  §25,000  per  mile $6,000,000 

From  the  Bois  cles  Sioux  to  the  crossing  of  Milk  river,  a  prairie  region,  the  Coteau  du 
Missouri  having  to  be  surmounted,  and  some  care  in  the  Milk  River  valley  to  guard  against 
freshets,  and  in  providing  for  culverts  and  bridges : 

712  miles,  at  840,000  per  mile $28,480,000 

From  the  crossing  of  Milk  river  to  the  Smike,  (point  where  the  roads  down  the  Columbia  and 
to  the  Snoqualme  Pass  fork,)  a  distance  of  five  hundred  arid  fourteen  miles,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  will  involve  heavy  side-cutting,  much  of  it  in  rock.  The  remainder  will  pass 
over  an  essentially  prairie  region,  though  at  times  a  rolling  prairie.  This  estimate  is  for  the 
line  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass,  the  Jocko  and  Clark's  Fork  rivers.  Even  in  the  mountain 
and  wooded  region,  from  the  entrance  to  the  Mountain  Pass  to  the  crossing  of  the  Spokane,  a 
distance  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  is  along  prairie 
or  regular  river  intervale,  and  less  than  one  hundred  miles  is  on  side-hills. 

For  the  difficult  work,  I  estimate  150  miles,  at  $100,000  per  mile $15,000,000 

Remaining  work,  364  miles,  at  $45,000  per  mile 16,380,000 

Tunnel    at   Lewis    and  Clark's  Pass,  (round  numbers,)  13,675  feet,  at  $120  per 

lineal  foot 1,650,000 


Total 33,035,000 


From  the  point  of  forking  of  the  two  roads,  to  Seattle  and  Snoqualme  Pass,  the  distance  is  two 
hundred  and  forty  miles,  which  may  be  subdivided  as  follows : 

Work  comparatively  light   from  the  Snake  to  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Kitchelus,  and  from  the 
Snoqualme  Falls  to  Seattle. 

193  miles,  at  $45,000  per  mile $8,685,000 

Intermediate  work,  excepting  line  of  tunnel,  40  miles,  at  $100,000  per  mile 4,000,000 

Short  tunnel,  4,000  yards,  at  $375  per  yard  (round  numbers) 1,500,000 

Long  tunnel,  11,840  yards,  about  $420  per  yard 5,000,000 

St.  Paul  to  Bois  des  Sioux,  240  miles 6,000,000 

Bois  des  Sioux  to  crossing  of  Milk  river,  712  miles 28;4SO,000 

Crossing  of  Milk  river  to  crossing  of  Columbia,  706  miles 41,661,000 

Crossing  of  Columbia  to  Seattle,  on  Puget  sound,  240  miles 17,685,000 

COST  OF   SPUR-ROADS,  RESERVOIRS,  AND    STEAMERS  ON    THE   COLUMBIA  AND  MISSOURI  RIVERS. 

Spur-road  to  St.  Paul $250,000 

Spur-road  to  Fort  Union,  and  depots 1,000,000 

Reservoirs,  aqueducts,  and  growth  of  wood 2,000,000 

Spur-road  to  Fort  Benton 1,000,000 

Reservoir  and  aqueducts,  Grizzly  Bear  lake 1,000,000 

Steamers  and  depots  on  the  Missouri 2,000,000 

Steamers  and  depots  on  the  Columbia 1,000,000 


8,250,000 


DEPOTS    AND    PERMANENT    FIXTURES. 


Depot  at  St.  Paul $200,000 

Depot  at  Little  Falls  and  connexion  with  Lake  Superior 150,000 

Depot  at  general  plateau  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux 150,000 

Depot  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Union 200,000 


ESTIMATE   OF   COST   OF   ROAD.  145 

Depot  in  the  vicinity  of  Great  Falls  of  Missouri $200,000 

Depot  in  St.  Mary's  valley 50,000 

Depot  near  crossing  of  the  Columbia 50,000 

Depot  at  Puget  sound,  with  permanent  works  for  a  large  travel 1,000,000 

Intermediate  stations,  with  equipments  for  wood  and  water  conduits  and  connex 
ions  with  aqueduct 1,000,000 

3,000,000 


A  detour  by  Cadotte's  Pass  would  increase  the  distance  some  two  or  three  miles,  and  the 
tunnel  about  two  miles  ;  the  increased  cost  would  be  one  and  a  half  millions. 

The  line  of  the  Bitter  Root  would  add  to  the  expense  as  follows  : 
Increased  length  of  line,  all  in  difficult  country,  seven  miles,  at  $100,000  per  mile.  $700,000 

The  line  from  the  forking  of  the  two  routes  to  Vancouver  would  cost  as  follows  : 

From  the  forking  of  the  routes  to  the  Dalles,  133  miles,  at  $50,000  per  mile $0,650,000 

From  the  Dalles  to  the  plain  near  Vancouver,  90  miles,  at  $120,000  per  mile 10,800,000 

Add  for   depot  buildings    at  head  of  navigation  of  the  Columbia,  depots  looking 

to  a  connexion  with  the  Willamette  and  intermediate  depots 250,000 


Total  cost  to  Vancouver,  223  miles 17,700,000 

From  the  plain,  near  Vancouver,  to  Seattle,  on  Puget  sound,  172  miles,  at  $40,000 

per  mile 6,880,000 

Add  for  intermediate  depots 150,000 


Total  cost  to  Seattle,  395  miles 24,730,000 


GENERAL    RECAPITULATION. 

Cost  of  road  to  Seattle  by  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  using  the  long  tunnel,  1,890  miles  .   $105,076,000 
Cost  of  road  to  Seattle  by  the  Columbia   valley  and  the   Cowlitz  river,  2,045 

miles 112,121,000 

Cost  of  road  to  Vancouver,  1,873  miles 105,091,000 

Entire  system,  St.  Paul  to  the  Columbia,  with  branches  down  the  Columbia  and 
across  the  Cascades,  and  a  connexion  from  Seattle  direct  to  the  Columbia  river, 

2,285  miles,  at  a  cost  of. 129,806,000 

To  above  add  for  engineering  and  contingencies 5,000,000 

19/ 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

Governmental  Aid  in  connexion  with  the   Construction  of  the  Road. — Indians  on  the 

Route. 

Incidental  aids  to  the  construction  of  the  road. — Government  aid  to  be  given  to  all  through  roads 
in  grants  of  alternate  sections  of  land,  with  the  usual  restrictions.  The  road  should  not,  how 
ever,  be  a  government  road,  maintained  and  managed  by  the  general  government.  It  will  only 
entail  great  expenditure,  lead  to  delay,  and  call  into  exercise  a  power  deemed  by  many  to  be 
.unconstitutional.  The  road  to  be  built  by  private  enterprise  ;  the  business  capacity,  great  skill 
developed  in  capitalists,  engineers  and  contractors,  by  our  railroad  experience,  availed  of,  and  the 
whole  operation  to  be  pushed  with  vigor;  Irish  laborers  in  the  eastern  portion,  laborers  from  the 
Sandwich  Islands  and  China  in  the  western;  railroad  iron  to  be  brought  to  the  road  by  the  con 
nexion  with  Lake  Superior;  every  effort  made  to  promote  settlement  on  the  road,  to  furnish  sup 
plies,  and  cause  a  way-travel  to  spring  up. 

The  cost  of  the  road  will  be  greatly  diminished  by  grants  of  land  being  availed  of  to  encour 
age  colonization,  and  the  methods  adopted  by  the  contractors  to  maintain  the  working  force  and 
procure  supplies.  The  supplies  of  meat  for  all  the  laborers  on  the  line  cast  of  the  mountains, 
except  for  the  portion  east  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  will  be  furnished  from  the  plains.  The  inex 
haustible  herds  of  buffalo  will  supply  amply  the  whole  force  till  the  road  is  completed.  The 
Red  river  hunters,  two  thousand  men,  five  thousand  men,  women,  and  children,  and  eighteen 
hundred  carts,  range  from  the  Mouse  River  valley  to  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  and  each  year 
in  June  and  July,  and  again  in  October  and  November,  carry  off  to  the  settlements  at  Pembina, 
and  in  English  territory,  at  least  2,500,000  pounds  of  buffalo  meat,  dried,  or  in  the  shape  of 
pemican.  These  people  are  simple-hearted,  honest,  and  industrious,  and  would  make  good 
citizens.  They  are  well  affected  towards  the  American  government;  would,  if  the  furnishing  of 
the  meat  were  intrusted  to  them,  settle  on  our  soil;  and  they  could  with  ease,  for  many  years, 
supply  a  much  larger  amount  of  meat,  and  at  very  moderate  rates.  The  Indians  of  western 
Minnesota,  the  Gros  Venires,  and  the  Blackfeet,  would  also  supply  considerable  quantities. 
The  laborers  with  their  families  should  be  induced  to  settle  on  the  line  of  the  road;  and  the  com 
pany,  in  the  disposition  of  their  grants,  should  give  to  them  and  to  settlers  small  lots  contiguous 
to  those  reserved  by  government,  which  would  thus  be  in  demand,  and  could  be  sold  at  an  early 
period  at  remunerative  rates.  Soon  population  would  increase,  a  thoroughfare  be  opened,  and 
the  company's  reserved  lots  could  be  disposed  of  to  settlers  at  a  considerable  advance.  I  would 
recommend  that  the  working  force,  once  on  the  line  of  the  road,  be  kept  there  with  their  families 
throughout  the  year,  and  thus,  by  a  course  similar  to  the  above,  be  induced  to  settle.  This 
course  once  carried  out,  laborers  would  offer  for  the  work  in  suitable  numbers,  and,  on  the  com 
pletion  of  the  road,  there  would  be  flourishing  settlements  on  the  entire  line. 

But  in  an  incidental  way,  under  the  acknowledged  sphere  of  action  of  the  general  government, 
aid  can  be  furnished  these  roads. 

As  preliminary  to  the  subject  of  governmental  action,  the  following  observations  are  submitted 
in  reference  to  the  Indian  tribes  on  the  route  of  the  exploration : 

The  Indians  on  the  line  of  the  route  are  the  Chippewas,  Winnebagoes,  Sioux,  Assiniboins, 
Crees,  Gros  Venires,  Bloods,  Piegaris,  Blackfeet,  and  Crows ;  and  west  of  the  mountains,  the 


INDIANS   ON    THE    ROUTE.  147 

Flalhcads,  Kootcnaies,  Pend  d'Oreillcs,  Ccenr  d'Alenes,  Spokanes,  Nez  Perces,  Peluses,  Cayiises, 
Wallah-Wallahs,  Dalles,  Cascades,  Klikitals,  Yakimas,  Pisquouse,  Okinakaries,  Colvillcs,  and 
some  forty  tribes  west  of  the  Cascade  mountains.  The  only  white  inhabitants  are  the  traders 
and  employes  of  the  Fur  Companies,  licensed  traders  in  the  unorganized  portion  of  the  Territory. 
East  of  the  Cascades,  the  employes  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  the  Red  river  half- 
breeds  living  near  the  boundary  line  and  near  Red  river,  a  portion  in  American  and  a  portion  in 
English  territory. 

During  the  whole  course  of  the  exploration  the  Indians  were  uniformly  friendly,  and  not  a 
single  difficulty  in  all  these  extended  operations  occurred.  They  were  met  in  council  throughout 
the  route,  and  presents  were  given  to  them,  with  kind  words  from  the  Great  Father.  Our  inter 
course  with  the  several  tribes  of  the  Blackfeet  nation  was  especially  of  the  most  cordial  character, 
and  lor  the  last  ten  years  have  the  traders  of  the  Fur  Company  gone  alone  into  their  camps  with 
large  quantities  of  goods  in  entire  safely.  These  Blackfeet  may  be  considered  the  Arabs  of  the 
North.  They  having  the  adventurous  spirit  of.  that  ancient  people,  make  long  journeys  in  quest 
of  spoils  or  scalps,  and  extend  their  depredations  to  Snake  river,  to  the  emigrant  trail,  and  to 
New  Mexico.  Bringing  a  portion  of  them  into  council  at  Fort  Benton,  they  promised,  individ 
ually,  to  cease  sending  their  war  parties  against  other  tribes,  and  to  respect  all  whites  travelling 
through  their  country,  and  to  use  their  influence  to  induce  the  whole  nation  to  do  likewise. 

This  promise  has  been  respected,  and  the  chiefs  present  at  the  council  have  used  their  utmost 
influence  to  dissuade  their  young  men  from  going  to  war.  Yet  for  many  years  there  have  not 
been  so  many  in  the  tribe,  many  alleging  that  this  year  will  be  their  last  opportunity  to  steal 
horses,  and  they  must  make  the  most  of  it.  Should  a  council  be  held  at  or  near  Fort  Benton 
lor  a  general  pacification  of  the  Indian  tribes  on  both  sides  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  not  included 
in  existing  arrangements,  I  am  satisfied  that,  with  the  support  of  the  military  force,  it  will,  in 
connexion  with  subsequent  measures,  tend  to  reclaim  them  and  make  of  them  useful  members 
of  the  State.  In  the  interviews  which  Mr.  DotAr,  in  charge  of  the  meteorological  post  at  Fort 
Benton,  has  had  with  them  at  their  camps  in  the  vicinity  of  that  place,  it  will  be  seen  they  are 
exceedingly  pleased  both  with  the  council  and  the  idea  of  a  farm.  The  improvement  which 
has  already  taken  place  in  their  general  character  is  the  guarantee  of  continued  improvement. 

I  concur  in  the  views  of  Mr.  Dot}*,  given  in  the  Indian  portion  of  this  report,  to  which  I 
will  call  your  particular  attention.  At  this  moment  it  is  certain  a  man  can  go  about  throughout 
their  territory  without  molestation,  except  in  the  contingency  of  being  mistaken  at  night  for  an 
Indian. 

The  report  of  Lieutenant  Mullan  will  be  found  full  of  interest  in  reference  to  the  honest  and 
brave  Indians  immediately  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  I  cannot  but  respond  to  all  the 
warmth  and  energy  of  his  appeal  to  the  government  for  their  protection.  Not  doubting  that  a 
council  will  be  held,  they  bear  in  patience  every  injury;  and  the  return  of  three  horses  belonging 
to  Mr.  Doty's  train,  taken  by  mistake  in  reprisals  for  horses  stolen  by  the  Blackfeet,  by  the 
Pend  d'Oreille  chief  and  five  men,  I  look  upon  as  an  act  of  heroism.  They  travelled  five  days 
through  Blackfeet  war  parties,  and  delivered  them  up  at  Fort  Benton,  asking  no  reward,  and 
expressing  much  sorrow  and  shame  at  the  act ;  and  this  was  done  by  the  unanimous  vote  of  the 
whole  tribe  in  council.  Nearly  all  the  Indians  east  of  the  Cascades  are  sincere  Christians, 
mostly  Catholics  ;  but  the  Spokanes  and  a  part  of  the  Nez  Perces  are  Protestants.  The  inter 
esting  report  of  Mr.  Gibbs  to  Captain  McClellan,  in  charge  of  the  exploration  and  survey  of  the 
Cascades,  will,  in  connexion  with  the  reports  of  Dr.  Suckle}r,  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and  Mr.  Doty, 
give  a  good  general  view  of  the  Indians  on  the  route  from  the  Blackfeet  nation  to  the  Pacific. 

It  may  be  remarked,  however,  that  the  exploration  has  had  extraordinary  facilities  for  collecting 
information  in  relation  to  the  Indian  tribes,  and  has  enabled  me  to  come  to  conclusions  in  refer 
ence  to  the  general  policy  that  should  be  pursued  towards  them.  The  mountain  Indians  differ 
entirely  in  their  character  and  habits  from  those  of  the  streams  and  the  shores  of  the  ocean. 


148  INDUNS   ON    THE   ROUTE. 

The  Intter  subsist  on  fish  and  berries,  raising  some  potatoes,  but  owning  few  horses  or  cattle. 
They  are  debased  in  character,  and  are  rapidly  reducing  in  numbers  in  consequence  of  their 
vices  and  their  penury.  The  mountain  Indians,  including  all  east  of  the  Cascades  except  those 
of  the  lower  Columbia,  own  horses  and  cattle,  have  small  crops  of  wheat,  as  well  as  potatoes, 
are  moral  in  their  habits — polygamy  having  been  abandoned  by  a  majority  of  the  tribes — and 
ibr  subsistence  depend  in  part  upon  the  chase,  resorting  to  the  plains  east  of  the  Missouri  for  the 
meat  of  the  buffalo.  Large  numbers  of  them  are  expert  hunters,  particularly  the  Flatheads,  Nez 
Perces,  Cceur  d'Alenes,  Pend  d'Oreilles,  and  Spokanes.  Nearly  all  the  country,  indeed,  east  of 
the  Cascades,  is  a  ijood  grazing  country,  and  most  of  it  is  well  adapted  to  agriculture.  My  own 
personal  observations  were  quite  considerable  in  this  respect,  including  the  country  occupied  by 
the  Flatheads,  Creur  d'Alenes,  Spokanes,  and  the  country  thence  to  Colville,  and  that  occupied 
by  the  Wallah- Wallahs.  Actual  settlers  invariably  speak  well  of  the  country  occupied  by 
them — the  St.  Mary's,  Colville,  Spokane,  Wallah-Wallah  valleys,  and  the  region  near  the  valleys 
of  the  Yakima  and  its  tributaries.  The  desire  of  the  JNTez  Perces  and  Spokanes  for  a  grist-mill 
in  their  territories,  towards  which  each  family  has  offered  to  contribute  a  horse,  is  the  most 
significant  exemplification  of  their  desire  to  till  the  soil.  Some  of  the  same  Indians  east  of  the 
Cascades  are  very  poor,  especially  the  Kootenaies ;  and  the  project  of  introducing  salmon  into 
the  upper  Columbia  by  blasting  a  race-way,  suggested  by  Dr.  Suckley,  is  worthy  of  special  atten 
tion.  The  Pend  d'Oreilles  and  Coeur  d'Alenes  subsist  much  upon  deer,  the  former  taking  in  one 
hunt,  in  the  winter  of  1852-'3,  eight  hundred,  and  the  latter  four  hundred  and  fifty.  The  straits 
to  which  these  Indians  will  be  reduced  in  two  years,  by  the  entire  disappearance  of  game,  is 
referred  to  by  Dr.  Suckley,  and  measures  ought  not  to  be  put  off'  to  provide  for  them.  Several 
of  these  tribes  are  rich  in  horses  and  cattle,  and  are  famous  for  their  rapid  movements.  A 
Blackfoot  brave,  "the  white  man's  hare,"  told  me,  on  the  Big  Muddy  river,  that  he  stole  the 
first  Flathead  horse  he  came  across — it  was  sure  to  be  a  good  one.  They  own  still  many  good 
horses,  though  their  number  and  quality  have  been  reduced  in  consequence  of  their  losses.  The 
Nez  Perces  are  rich,  both  in  horses  and  in  cattle ;  and  the  hospitable  reception  they  extended  to 
the  members  of  the  exploration  passing  through  their  country,  taking  care  of  a  man  lost  from 
Lieutenant  Macfeely's  party,  binding  up  his  wounds,  and  giving  him  the  means  of  reaching  the 
nearest  settler,  Mr.  Craig,  and  receiving  into  their  lodges  for  some  days  the  members  of  Mr. 
Tinkham's  party,  after  their  arduous  winter  examination  of  the  snows  of  the  Bitter  Root,  show 
that  they  are  still  the  good  Indians  of  the  time  of  Lewis  and  Clark. 

The  Assiniboins,  east  of  the  Blackfoot  nation,  have  been  steadily  improving  in  character  since 
the  treaty  of  Laramie,  and  now  sustain  an  excellent  reputation;  they  previously  were  considered 
incorrigible  thieves.  My  express  to  Fort  Union  were  hospitably  entertained  by  them,  provided 
with  a  lodge,  their  horses,  saddles,  and  other  heavy  articles  placed  in  safe  hands  ;  but  they  were 
advised  to  look  after  their  smaller  things,  as  the  little  children  might  not  be  able  to  keep  their 
hands  off  them. 

I  met  the  Assiniboins  in  council  at  a  large  camp  about  one  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  east 
of  Fort  Union,  and  received  the  strongest  assurances  of  their,  friendly  disposition.  They  com 
plained  of  their  hunting-ground  being  restricted  by  the  Red  river  half-breeds,  against  whom  they 
asked  the  protection  of  the  government;  and  that,  in  consequence,  they  found  difficulty  in  getting 
game  for  their  subsistence  through  the  entire  year.  The  Assiniboins  range  from  the  Mouse 
River  valley  to  the  Big  Muddy  river,  or  probably  to  the  mouth  of  Milk  river. 

The  Red  river  half-breeds  range  in  the  country  from  east  of  the  Red  river  to  the  Mouse  River 
valley,  and  going  in  large  parties,  they  severely  restrict  the  means  of  subsistence  of  the  As 
siniboins  and  the  Sioux.  They  are  generally  accompanied  by  small  numbers  of  friendly 
Indians — Chippewas,  Crees,  and  occasionally  an  Assiniboin.  They  were  met  on  the  large 
bend  of  the  Shayenne  river,  that  rises  south  of  the  Miniwakan  lake,  between  the  Mouse 
river  and  the . 


INDIANS   ON   THE   ROUTE.  149 

A  third  party  was  also  on  the  plains.  They  are  a  simple-minded,  honest,  and  industrious 
population.  They  are  attended  by  the  priests  and  ministers  of  religion,  and  make  it  a  principle 
to  rest  on  the  Sabbath.  Their  attention  to  their  religious  duties  on  these  plains  is  one  of  the 
most  striking  characteristics  of  this  primitive  population.  They  make  two  hunts  each  year, 
leaving  a  poriion  of  their  numbers  at  home  to  take  care  of  their  houses  and  farms:  once  from  the 
middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of  August,  when  they  make  pemican,  and  dry  meat,  and  prepare 
the  skin  of  the  buffalo  for  lodges  and  moccasins ;  and  again  from  the  middle  of  September  to  the 
middle  of  November,  when,  besides  the  pemican  and  dried  meat,  the  skin  is  dried  into  robes. 

I  estimate  that  four  months  each  year  two  thousand  hunters,  three  thousand  women  and  chil 
dren,  and  eighteen  hundred  carts  are  on  the  plains;  and  estimating  the  load  of  a  cart  at  eight 
hundred  pounds,  and  allowing  three  hundred  carts  for  luggage,  that  twelve  hundred  tons  of  meat, 
skins,  and  furs,  is  their  product  of  the  chase. 

I  had  very  free  intercourse  with  the  governors  and  prominent  men  of  both  bands,  who  ex 
pressed  a  strong  attachment  to  the  American  government,  and  a  great  desire  to  settle  perma 
nently  on  American  soil.  I  am  satisfied  they  would  make  good  citizens.  I  have  collected  a 
large  amount  of  valuable  information  in  reference  to  their  history,  modes  of  life,  and  with  illus 
trations  by  the  artist,  which  will  appear  in  the  elaborate  report. 

The  Indians  referred  to  by  Mr.  Gibbs,  in  his  report,  as  the  Upper  Pend  d'Oreilles,  have  been 
formed  at  a  comparatively  recent  period  under  Ambrose  as  their  chief,  and  are  known  as  the 
Kalispel  or  Kalispelms.  They  consist  of  a  number  of  wandering  families,  composed  of  Spo- 
kanes,  Kalispelms  proper,  and  Flatheads,  who,  having  intermarried,  have  formed  a  habit  of 
sojourning  in  the  general  vicinity  of  the  Horse  and  Camash  plains,  on  Clark's  fork,  during  their 
annual  migrations  to  and  from  the  buffalo  hunting  grounds.  They  have  about  forty  lodges,  num 
bering  some  two  hundred  and  eighty  inhabitants. 

The  Kalispelms  proper,  Pend  d'Oreilles,  have  Victor  for  their  chief,  and  have  sixty  lodges,  or 
about  four  hundred  and  twenty  inhabitants.  This  estimate  is  lower  than  that  of  Mr.  Gibbs,  but 
may  be  relied  on.  For  much  valuable  information  in  reference  to  these  Indians,  and  the  Catholic 
mission  established  among  them,  I  will  refer  you  to  Doctor  Suckley's  report. 

The  Coeur  d'Alene  Indians  are  under-estimated  by  all  the  authorities.  They  have  some 
seventy  lodges,  and  number  about  five  hundred  inhabitants.  They  are  much  indebted  to  the 
good  fathers  for  making  considerable  progress  in  agriculture.  They  have  abandoned  polygamy, 
have  been  taught  the  rudiments  of  Christianity,  and  are  greatly  improved  in  their  morals,  and  in 
the  comforts  of  life.  It  is  indeed  extraordinary  what  the  fathers  have  done  at  the  Coeur  d'Alene 
mission.  It  is  on  the  Coeur  d'Alene  river,  about  thirty  miles  from  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and 

some miles  above  the  Coeur  d'Alene  lake.     They  have  a  splendid  church,  nearly  finished, 

by  the  labor  of  the  fathers,  laymen,  and  Indians,  a  large  barn,  a  horse-mill  for  flour,  a  small  ninge 
of  buildings  for  the  accommodation  of  the  priests  and  laymen,  a  store-room,  a  milk  or  dairy  room, 
a  cook-room,  and  good  arrangements  for  their  pigs  and  cattle.  They  are  putting  up  a  new  range 
of  quarters,  and  the  Indians  have  some  twelve  comfortable  log-cabins.  The  church  was  designed 
by  the  superior  of  the  mission,  Pere  Avili,  a  man  of  skill  as  an  architect,  and  undoubtedly,  judg 
ing  from  his  well-thumbed  books,  of  various  accomplishments.  Pere  Gazzoli  showed  me  his 
several  designs  for  the  altar,  all  of  them  characterized  by  good  taste  and  harmony  of  proportion. 
The  church,  as  a  specimen  of  architecture,  would  do  credit  to  any  one,  and  has  been  faithfully 
sketched  by  our  artist,  Mr.  Stanley.  The  massive  timbers  supporting  the  altar  were  from  larch 
trees  five  feet  in  diameter,  and  were  raised  to  their  place  by  the  Indians,  with  the  aid  simply  of  a 
pulley  and  rope. 

They  have  a  large  cultivated  field  of  some  two  hundred  acres,  and  a  prairie  of  from  two  to 
three  thousand  acres.  They  own  a  hundred  pigs,  eight  yoke  of  oxen,  twenty  cows,  and  a 
liberal  proportion  of  horses,  mules,  and  young  animals. 

The  Indians  have  learned  to  plough,  sow,  till  the  soil  generally,  milk  cows,  (with  both  hands,) 


150  INDIANS   ON    THE    ROUTE. 

and  do  all  the  duties  incident  to  a  farm.  They  are,  some  of  them,  expert  wood-cutters;  and  I 
saw  at  work,  getting  in  the  harvest,  some  thirty  or  forty  Indians.  They  are  thinking  of  cutting 
out  a  good  trail  to  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  over  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains,  on  the  route  passed 
over  by  me.  They  need  agricultural  implements  and  seeds. 

The  country,  generally,  on  both  sides  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  river  and  lake,  is  rolling  and 
beautiful.  It  is  interspersed  with  many  small  prairies,  all  affording  excellent  grazing,  and  most 
of  them  adapted  to  crops.  The  rolling  country  could  be  easily  cleared,  and  would  yield  excel 
lent  wheat  and  vegetables.  I  have  no  question  that  all  the  country  from  the  falls  of  the  Cceur 
d'Alene  to  the  lower  end  of  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  and  from  the  mission  for  some  distance 
above  the  lake,  a  region  of  three  or  four  thousand  square  miles,  is  adapted  to  grazing  and  culture. 
A  small  portion  will  be  overflowed  by  the  melting  of  the  mountain  snows,  and  another  portion 
will  be  occupied  by  mountain  spurs  or  isolated  peaks,  capable  simply  of  furnishing  timber  and  fuel. 

The  fathers  state  that  a  better  site  for  the  mission  is  furnished  by  a  river  flowing  from  the 
southeast  into  the  western  end  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake,  and  called  by  them  the  St.  Joseph's 
river.  It  is  said  to  be  larger  than  the  Cceur  d'Alene  river,  to  have  many  prairies  along  its  banks, 
and  that  the  country  generally  abounds  in  wood,  grass,  and  water. 

The  Peluse  number  100  lodges  and  about  500  people,  and  are  in  three  bands:  One  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Peluse  river,  of  forty  lodges,  under  Que-lap-tip,  head  chief,  and  Stow-yalt-se, 
second  chief;  the  second  band,  of  twelve  lodges,  under  So-ie,  on  the  north  bank  of  Snake  river, 
thirty  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Peluse;  and  the  third  band  at  the  mouth  of 'Snake  river,  of 
fifty  lodges,  under  Til-ka-icks. 

The  Flatheads  number  about  sixty  lodges,  but  many  of  them  are  only  inhabited  by  old  women 
and  their  daughters.  The  tribe  has  been  almost  exterminated  by  the  Blackfeet,  and  the  mass 
of  the  nation  consist  of  Pend  d'Oreilles,  Spokanes,  Nez  Perces,  and  Iroquois.  I  estimated  their 
number  at  350.  Their  country  is  admirably  adapted  to  grazing;  they  own  many  cattle,  which 
they  corral  at  night;  have  at  their  village  sixteen  log-houses,  and  many  have  small  patches  of 
wheat  and  vegetables.  Much  greater  advances  would  have  been  made  by  them  in  agriculture, 
had  it  not  been  for  their  entire  insecurity  from  the  incursions  of  the  Blackfeet,  and  for  the  great 
diminution  of  their  able-bodied  men.  Even  Victor,  during  the  last  season,  cached  the  remnant 
of  his  tribe,  and  a  fine  band  of  horses  reserved  for  the  winter  hunt,  while  the  bulk  of  his  tribe 
were  on  the  Missouri  plains.  At  a  council  held  at  Fort  Owen  the  Flatheads  pointed  out  to  me 
six  or  seven  orphan  boys  whose  fathers  had  been,  within  two  or  three  years,  killed  by  the  Black- 
feet 

In  a  general  meeting  of  the  tribe,  held  by  Lieutenant  Mullan,  they  expressed  a  strong  desire 
that  an  agent  should  live  among  them,  that  they  should  be  furnished  with  agricultural  tools,  and 
that  they  should  be  protected  against  the  Blackfeet. 

The  necessity  of  an  agent  is  very  apparent.  The  agency  should  be  established  near  Hell  Gate. 
The  St.  Mary's  valley  is  not  simply  the  home  of  the  Flatheads;  it  is  the  thoroughfare  of -all 
the  Indians  of  Washington  who  hunt  the  buffalo  on  the  Missouri  plains. 

Lieutenant  Mullan's  reports  of  November  IS,  1853,  December  14,  1S53,  and  January  25, 
1854,  are  referred  to  for  more  full  information.  The  report  of  Dr.  Suckley  will  also  be  found  to 
contain  much  valuable  information  in  regard  to  these  interesting  Indians. 

The  Nez  Perces  were  met  on  the  plains  between  the  Muscle  Shell  and  Yellowstone  by  Lieu 
tenant  Mullan,  by  myself  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  by  myself  on  the  Cneur  d'Alene  trail,  and 
by  Lieutenant  Donelson  on  that  by  Clark's  fork,  in  October,  on  their  way  to  the  plains  of  the 
Missouri,  by  Mr.  Tinkham  on  his  return  from  Fort  Benton  in  November,  and  again  by  him  in 
their  own  country  on  the  Kooskooskia  river  in  December.  They  are  on  excellent  terms  with 
the  Flatheads,  Cceur  d'Alcnes,  Spokanes,  Pend  d'Oreilles,  and  the  other  Indians  of  the  Territory; 
travel  and  hunt  together,  and  are.  more  or  less  intermarried  with  them.  They  undoubtedly  live  in 
a  rich  and  inviting  country. 


INDIANS  ON  THE  ROUTE.  151 

There  should  be  an  agency  established  among  the  Blackfeet  near  the  falls  of  the  Missouri,  and, 
besides,  one  among  the  Flalheads  in  the  St.  Mary's  valley;  one  on  the  Spokane  plain,  for  the 
Indians  between  the  Cascades  and  Bitter  Root  mountains;  one  for  the  Indians  on  Puget  sound,  and 
an  agency  or  sub-agency  (I  recommend  'the  former)  among  the  Nez  Perces,  and  also  among  the 
Indians  on  the  lower  Columbia.  Laws  should  be  passed  for  the  extinguishment  of  the  Indian 
title,  and  placing  the  Indians  in  reservations.  It  can  be  done  now  without  difficulty,  and  should 
be  done  before  settlements  are  further  advanced.  In  connexion  with  each  agency  there  should 
be  one  or  more  farms. 

All  these  subjects  will  be  treated  more  fully  in  my  final  report,  and  wilt  also  be  reported  on 
to  the  proper  departments. 

Excluding  the  Indians  in  the  Territory  of  Minnesota,  the  Indians  on  the  general  line  of  the 
route  may  be  estimated  as  follows: 

EAST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS BLACKFEET    NATION. 

Lodges.  Warriors.  Total  No. 

Gros  Ventrcs 3GO  900  2,520 

Bloods 350  875  2,450 

Piegans 350  875  2,450 

Blackfeet 250  625  1,750 

Assiniboins,  Crees,  &c 400  1,000  2,800 


1,710  4,275           11,970 

WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 

Flatheads 60  350 

Kootenaies    and   Flatheads ....  400 

Peud  d'Oreilles  of  Upper  Lake , 40  280 

Pcnd  d'Oreilles  of  Lower  Lake 60  420 

Coeur  d'Alenes 70  500 

Spokanes - 600 

Nez  Perces 1,700 

Peluses 500 

Cay  uses ....  120 

Wallah-Wallahs 300 

Dalles  band 200 

Cascades -  -  -  -  36 

Klikitats 300 

Yakimas 600 

Pisquouse  and  Okinakanes -  —  ^50 

Shwoi-el-pi,  or  Colville  .                            50° 

7,356 

WEST    OF    THE    CASCADES. 

Indians  on  the  Columbia  river , ....  ....                656 

Coast  from  mouth  of  Columbia  to  entrance  of  Straits  de  Fuca. .          950 

Straits  de  Fuca 1 920 

West  shore,  Puget  sound - .... 

Nisqually 209 

Islands  and  east  shore  of  sound 4,189 

6,903 

26,885 


152  INDIANS   ON   THE   ROUTE. 

The  numbers  of  the  four  tribes  of  the  Blackfeet  nation  are  taken  from  Mr.  Doty's  enumera 
tion.  It  is  less  than  that  of  Mr.  Stanley,  who  visited  the  Piegans  in  September  last,  and  whose 
estimate  of  the  Piegans,  Bloods,  and  Blackfeet,  was,  1,330  lodges  and  13,300  souls;  and  it  is 
likewise  less  than  my  enumeration,  derived  from  consulting  all  reliable  sources  of  information 
in  the  upper  Missouri,  and  which  made  the  four  tribes  of  the  Gros  Ventres,  Bloods,  Piegans,  and 
Blackfeet,  amount  to  14,400,  or  5,230  more  than  the  estimate  of  Mr.  Doty.  Mr.  Doty  has,  how 
ever,  had  the  opportunity  of  making  an  actual  count  of  more  than  half  these  Indians,  and  his 
estimate  cannot  be  far  from  the  mark.  The  Assiniboins  and  Crees  are  an  estimate. 

It  is  with  great  satisfaction  I  submit  the  interesting  reports  of  Mr.  Gibbs,  Lieutenant  Mullan, 
and  Mr.  Doty,  in  regard  to  Indian  matters,  for  they  show  the  great  interest  taken  in  this  subject 
by  the  officers  of  the  exploration ;  the  thorough  manner  in  which  our  Indian  relations  have  been 
investigated  ;  and  they  conclusively  rebut  any  presumption  prejudicial  to  the  route  as  a  practicable 
route  for  a  railroad,  growing  out  of  any  supposed  hostilities  on  the  part  of  the  Indian  tribes.  I 
do  not  consider  that  a  preliminary  report  furnishes  the  appropriate  occasion  to  go  into  any  exami 
nation  of  questions  of  Indian  policy,  or  details  of  Indian  administration,  further  than  the  general 
views  which  I  have  already  presented.  I  have  thought  it  best,  however,  to  submit  the  reports 
as  they  are,  in  order  to  bring  them  at  once  before  the  public,  in  view  of  their  connexion  with 
the  great  object  of  the  exploration,  viz:  determining  the  whole  question  by  route,  grades,  snows, 
obstructions  from  Indians,  reserving  the  full  experience  of  my  own  views,  in  matters  purely  admin 
istrative,  to  my  reports  to  the  Indian  Bureau.  The  settlement  of  Indian  matters  in  the  Territory 
in  the  region  east  of  the  mountains  has  become  urgent. 

The  attention  of  settlers  has  already  been  called  to  many  pleasant  valleys,  both  east  and  west 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  between  the  Cascades  and  the  Bitter  Root  mountains.  I  am 
satisfied  a  portion  of  the  emigration  to  Washington  and  Oregon  will,  after  this  year,  be  by  the 
passes  explored  under  my  direction.  A  good  connexion  undoubtedly  exists  between  these 
passes  and  the  Platte,  which  will  not  only  furnish  a  good  route,  but  a  short  one. 

The  route,  after  the  first  wagons  have  passed  over,  will  indeed  be  better;  grass  and  wood  more 
abundant,  and  water  better  ;  distance  less. 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

Establishment  of  Military  Posts. — Extinguishment  of  Indian  Title. — Encouragement  to  be 

given  to  Settlements. —  Wagon  roads. 

1.  Establishment  of  military  posts. — Two  posts  should  be  established — one  at  the  plateau  of  the 
Bois  des  Sioux,  the  other  at  Fort  Benton.  These  posts  should  consist  of  one  strong  battalion 
(half  regiment)  of  mounted  men,  with  a  battery  of  horse  artillery  and  one  of  mountain  howitzers, 
and  be  in  strength  sufficient  to  send  movable  columns  in  case  of  an  Indian  disturbance.  In  con 
nexion  with  these  posts,  inducements  should  be  held  out  to  the  Red  river  half-breeds  to  settle  on 
the  Red  river  of  the  North,  in  American  territory.  They  now  live  near  the  line,  partly  in  Amer 
ican  and  partly  in  English  territory. 

The  central  position,  geographically,  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  and  its  being  a  remarkable  key  to 
all  the  railroad  routes  in  Minnesota,  has  been  already  shown.  As  a  military  position,  it  is  quite 
central  to  many  Indian  tribes,  as  the  Chippewas,  Sioux,  Winnebagoes,  Assiniboins,  and  Crees. 
As  a  necessary  precaution,  the  Red  river  half-breeds  always  move  in  large  bands;  a  corral  is 
made  at  night  with  their  carts,  and  guard  is  kept,  and  the  animals  carefully  enclosed  at  night. 
It  is  not  doubted  that  the  presence  of  a  military  post  at  that  place  would  remove  every  hostile 
view  on  the  part  of  the  Indians,  and  with  prudence,  and  a  small  distribution  of  presents,  the 
Indians  could  be  induced  to  bring  the  fruits  of  the  chase  to  the  furtherance  of  the  support  of  the 
post,  and  of  building  the  road. 

Fort  Benton,  near  the  probable  head  of  navigation  of  the  Missouri,  is  central  to  the  several 
tribes  of  the  Blackfeet  nation,  to  the  Crows  and  the  tribes  west  of  the  mountains,  and  within  easy 
reach  of  the  several  practicable  crossings  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  A  post  could  be  readily 
selected  having  the  necessary  requisites  of  good  water,  grass,  and  land  for  tillage. 

There  would  be  no  special  necessity  of  a  post  west  of  the  mountains,  in  consequence  of  the 
docility  and  the  honesty  of  the  Indians.  Efficient  and  upright  Indian  agents  will  be  able  to  see 
that  their  rights  are  respected,  and  that  they  regard  the  progress  of  the  work  without  suspicion 
or  alarm.  This  leads  to  the  consideration  of — 

2.  The  extinguishment  of  the  Indian  title — at  least  on  the   line  of  the  road,  and  for  the  fertile 
valleys  and  regions  in  connexion  with  it. 

In  Minnesota,  the  Indian  title  should  be  extinguished  entirely  in  the  vicinity  of  and  east  of  the 
Bois  des  Sioux,  from  south  of  the  Minnesota  to  above  Little  Falls,  on  the  Red  river  of  the  North; 
the  whole  of  the  Mouse  River  valley;  the  valley  of  Milk  river,  till  left  by  the  road ;  the  region 
immediately  east  of  the  mountains,  from  the  sources  of  the  Teton  to  the  forks  of  the  Missouri; 
the  whole  of  the  St.  Mary's  and  the  Flathead  valleys,  except  a  small  reservation  for  the  Flathead 
Indians;  and,  generally  speaking,  all  the  Indians  west  of  the  mountains,  both  in  Washington 
and  Oregon,  should  be  placed  in  reservation,  and  the  country  opened  to  settlement.  With 
prudence,  judgment,  and  the  display  of  a  small  military  force,  no  difficulty  will  be  experienced 
in  accomplishing  these  arrangements,  so  essential  to  the  construction  of  the  road. 

3.  Encouragement  should  be  given  to  settlements — geographical  explorations  be  followed  by  land 
surveys.     It  is  not  doubted  that,  with  an  energetic  land  system,  not  only  would  a  great  propor 
tion  of  the  laborers  employed  in  the  construction  settle  on  the  line  of  the  road,  but  that  the  adja 
cent  valleys,  and  even  distant  lateral  connections,  though  separated  by  considerable  mountain 

20/ 


154  WAGON   ROADS. 

spurs,  would  be  filled  up.  Thus  the  valleys  north  of  the  Flathead  lake,  that  leading  to  Colville, 
and  many  in  the  Nez  Perces  and  Cceur  d'Alene  country,  would  smile  with  cottages  and  yield  the 
products  of  the  soil. 

The  grass  and  water  on  the  whole  route  may  be  considered  excellent,  especially  in  the  Rocky 
mountain  region. 

4.  Wagon  roads. — Independent  of  the  railroad,  it  is  recommended  that  wagon  roads  be  opened 
immediately  connecting  the  Mississippi  with  Puget  sound  and  the  Columbia  river  by  the  north 
ern  passes.  In  the  appendix,  H  27  to  H  34,  are  given  itineraries  of  routes  from  St.  Paul  to 
Fort  Union;  from  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Benton — first,  by  the  Milk  river,  and  second,  by  the  route 
between  the  Milk  and  Missouri ;  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  St.  Mary's  valley ;  from  the  St.  Mary's 
valley  to  Fort  Benton  by  the  Marias  Pass  ;  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  St.  Mary's  valley  by  the 
northern  Little  Blackfoot  trail ;  from  the  St.  Mary's  valley  to  Wallah-Wallah — first,  by  Clark's 
fork,  and  second,  by  the  Cceur  d'Alene  route  to  its  intersection  with  that  by  Clark's  fork,  and 
that  by  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail ;  from  Wallah-Wallah  to  the  Dalles  ;  from  Vancouver  to 
Colville  along  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Cascades,  including  the  two  passes  of  the  Cascades,  the 
Nahchess  and  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  and  the  entire  route  from  Wallah- Wallah  to  Sleilacoom  by 
the  Snoqualme  Pass,  crossing  the  Columbia  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima.  These  itineraries 
are  quite  full,  giving  a  succinct  view  of  the  country  and  difficulties  of  each  day's  journey.  In 
some  portions  obstructions  exist  from  fallen  timber,  and  the  time  is  given  which  will  be  required 
to  overcome  them  by  a  resolute  party  of  ten  men,  having  their  good  ox  teams,  their  side-hill 
ploughs,  a  few  axes  and  other  implements.  The  river  crossings  are  particularly  adverted  to. 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

Papers  annexed  to  the  RepQrt. — Maps  accompanying  the  Report. — Field  remaining  to  be 

Explored. —  Concluding   Observations. 

The  following  papers  are  annexed  to,  and  form  a  portion  of,  the  report : 

A. — GENERAL  REPORTS. 

1.  Report  on  the  topography  of  the  route  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Columbia,  by  Mr.  John 

Lambert,  topographer  of  the  exploration. 

2.  Preliminary  notice  of  the  geology  of  the  country  explored,  by  Dr.  John  Evans,  geologist. 

3.  Medical  reports  of  Dr.  George  Suckley,  assistant  surgeon  U.  S.  A.,  and  Dr.  J.  G.  Cooper, 

surgeon  of  the  expedition. 

B. — SURVEY  OF  THE  CASCADES. 

4.  Railroad  practicability  of  the  Cascades,  and  of  the  line  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  by  Captain 

George  B.  McClellan,  corps  of  Engineers,  United  States  army,  in  command  of  the  western 
division.  The  survey  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass  was  carried  by  Captain  McClellan  up  the 
valley  of  the  Yakima  to  three  miles  west  of  the  dividing  ridge. 

5-.  Railroad  report  of  the  practicability  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  and  the  obstructions  to  be 
apprehended  from  snow,  by  Mr.  A.  W.  Tinkham.  Mr.  Tinkham  extended  the  survey 
from  the  point  to  which  it  had  been  carried  by  Captain  McClellan,  to  Seattle,  on  Puget 
sound,  and  made  examinations  of  the  depth  of  snow  in  the  month  of  January,  1854. 

6.  Report  of  Mr.  F.   W.  Lander,  civil  engineer,  on  the  railroad  practicability  of  the  pass  of  the 

Columbia  river. 

C. — GENERAL  REPORTS  OF  THE  SURVEY  OF  THE  CASCADES. 

7.  General  report  of  Captain  George  B.  McClellan,  corps  of  Engineers,  U.  S.  A.,  in  command 

of  the  western  division. 

8.  Topographical  report  of  Lieutenant  J.  K.  Duncan,   U.   S.  A.,  topographer  of  the  western 

division. 

9.  Natural  history  report  of  Dr.  J.  G.  Cooper,  naturalist  of  the  western  division. 

D. — SURVEYS  FROM  THE  MISSISSIPPI  TO  THE  BASE  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

1 0.  Report  of  the  Dead  Colt  Hillock  line,  by  Lieutenant  C.  Grover,  U.  S.  A. 

11.  Report  of  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander,   assistant  engineer,  of  the  crossings  of  the  Mississippi. 

12.  Report  of  Mr.  A.  W.   Tinkham,  assistant  engineer,  of  his  reconnaissance  of  the  "Three 

Buttes,"  and  of  his  reconnaissance  on  the  route. 

13.  Report  of  Dr.  John  Evans,  of  his  route  south  of  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone,  and  between 

the  Milk  and  Missouri  rivers. 

E. — NAVIGABILITY  OF  THE  MISSOURI. 

14.  Report  of  Lieutenant  A.  J.  Donelson,  corps  of  Engineers,  United  States  army,  of  his  survey 

of  the  Missouri   to  Fort  Union,  and  of  his  reconnaissance  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of 
Fort  Union  between  the  White  Earth  and  Big  Muddy  rivers. 


156  LIST    OF    PAPERS   ANNEXED    TO    REPORT. 

15.  Iteport  of  Lieutenant  C.   G rover,  U.  S.  A.,  of  bis  survey  of  the  upper   Missouri  from  the 

Great  Falls,  to  connect  with  the  survey  of  Lieutenant  Donelson. 

16.  Report  of  Lieutenant  R.  Saxton,  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  trip  in  a  keel-boat  from  Fort  Benton  to 

Fort  Leavenworth,  and  of  the  navigability  of  the  Missouri  river  by  steamers. 

F. — SURVEYS  FROM  THE  EASTERN  BASE  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  COLUMBIA. 

17.  Report  of  the  route  of  Lieut.  R.  Saxton,  U.  S.  A.,  from  the  Columbia  valley  to  Fort  Owen, 

and  thence  to  Fort  Benton. 

IS.  Report  of  Lieut.  Donelson  as  to  the  railroad  practicability  of  the  route  from  Fort  Benton,  by 
Lewis  and  Clark's  and  Cadotte's  Passes,  Blackfoot  trail,  the  Bitter  Root  and  Jocko  lines,  to 
Clark's  fork,  and  thence  by  Clark's  fork  to  Wallah-Wallah,  with  the  sub-reports  of  Lieut.  R. 
Arnold,  U.  S.  A.,  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander  and  Mr.  A.  \V.  Tinkham,  assistant  engineers. 

19.  Report  of  Mr.  A.  W.   Tinkham,  assistant  engineer,    as  to  the  railroad  practicability  of  the 

line  of  the  Marias   Pass  of  the  northern  Little  Blackfoot  trail  and  of  the  southern  Nez 
Perces  trail. 

20.  Report  of  Dr.  John  Evans  cf  his  route  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  lower  Columbia. 

21.  Report  of  Lieut.  Richard  Arnold,  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  route  from  the  mouth  of  Clark's  fork,  by 

Colville,  the  Grand  Coulee,  and  the  mouth  of  Snake  river,  to  Wallah-Wallah. 

22.  Report  of  Lieut.  R.  Macfeely,  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  return  from  Fort  Owen  to  Wallah-Wallah. 

G. — NAVIGABILITY  OF  THE  COLUMBIA. 

23.  Report  of  Dr.  George  Suckley,  assistant  surgeon  U.  S.  A.,  of  his  trip  in  a  canoe  from  Fort 

Owen  down  the  Bitter  Root,  Clark's  fork  and  Columbia  river,  to  Vancouver. 
Rocky  mountain  surveys,  by  Lieut.  John  Muilan,  U.  S.  A. 

24.  Report  of  an  exploration  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  Flathead  camp,  beyond  the  Muscle  Shell 

river,  and  thence  by  the  southern  Little  Blackfoot  river  to  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  by  Lieut. 
John  Mullan,  U.  S.  A. 

25.  Report  of  an  exploration  from  Cantonment  Stevens  to  Fort  Hall  and  back,  by  Lieut.  John 

Mullan,  U.  S.  A. 

26.  Report  of  route  from  Cantonment  Stevens  to  Fort  Benton  and  back,  by  Lieut.  John  Mullan, 

U.  S.  A. 

H. — ITINERARY. 

27.  Itinerary  of  the  route  from  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Union,  prepared  by  Mr.  Tinkham. 

28.  Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Benton,  prepared  by  Lieut.  Donelson. 

29.  Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Fort  Benton  by  Cadotte's  Pass,  the  Jocko  river  and  Clark's  fork, 

to  Wallah- Wallah,  with  an  estimate  of  the  time,  labor,  and  cost  of  making  a  practicable 
wagon-road,  by  Lieut.  Donelson. 

30.  Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Hell  Gate,  over  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains,  to  the  Cceur  d'Alenc 

mission,  and  thence  to  the  intersection  of  the  route  just  mentioned. 

31.  Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Fort  Benton,  by  the  northern  Blackfoot  trail,  to  Fort  Owen. 

32.  Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Fort  Owen,  by  the  Jocko  river,  Flathead  lake,  and  Marias  Pass, 

to  Fort  Benton. 

33.  Itinerary  of  the  route  from  Fort  Owen,  by  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail,  to  Wallah-Wallah. 

34.  Itinerary  of  the  Cascades,  Captain  McClellan's  route,  prepared  by  Mr.  J.  F.  Minter,  assist 

ant  engineer. 

I. — GENERAL  CLIMATOLOGY. 

35.  Report  of  Lieut.  S.  Mowry,  U.  S.  A.,  to  Capt.  George  B.  McClellan,  corps  of  Engineers,  of 

the  meteorology  of  the  Cascades. 


LIST    OF    MAPS    ACCOMPANYING    REPORT.  157 

36.  Report  of  the  meteorology  of  the  route,  by  Lieut.  C.  Grover,  U.  S.  A.,  from  Fort  Beriton  to 

Wallah-Wallah. 

37.  Report  of  Mr.  Tinkham  of  the  snows  of  the  Rocky  mountains  in  November,  of  the  Bitter 

Root  in  December,  and  of  the  Cascades  in  January,  1S53. 

38.  Letter  of  the  Hon.  H.  M.  Rice,  and  extracts  from  letters  from  Hon.  H.  H.  Sibley  and  A.  Cul- 

bertson,  Esq.,  as  to  the  winter  climate  of  the  region  extending  from  the  Mississippi  river  to 
the  base  of  the  mountains. 
For  much  additional  information  in  regard  to  snows,  see  the  several  reports  of  Lieut.  Mullan. 

J. — INDIAN  AFFAIRS. 

39.  Report  of  Mr.  George  Gibbs  to  Capt.  McClellan  on  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  Territory  of 

Washington. 

40.  Report  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  U.  S.  A.,  on  the  Indian  tribes  in  the  eastern  portion  of 

Washington  Territory. 

41.  Reports  of  Mr.  James  Doty  on  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  Blackfoot  nation. 

42.  Report  of  Mr.  J.  M.  Stanley's  visit  to  the  Piegan  camp  at  the  Cypress  mountain. 
The  following  maps  accompany  this  report : 

1.  General  map:  scale,  -g O-O"O¥<TO  5  showing  the  connexion  between  the  route  explored  and  exist 
ing  roads,  and  the  routes  still  requiting  examination  to  determine  the  best  route,  and  its  con 
nexions  with  the  routes  to  the  south,  with  a  comparison  of  the  profiles  of  the  route  by  the 
northern  passes,  and  of  the  South  Pass,  by  Mr.  John  Lambert,  topographer. 

2.  General  sketch  of  the  routes  explored:  scale,  y TO ~O~F iro  5  three  sheets,  by  Mr.  John  Lambert, 
topographer  of  the  expedition. 

3.  Map  of  the  Cascades  :  scale,  Tirocroir  ?  by  Lieutenant  J.  K.  Duncan,  U.  S.  A.,  under  the  orders 
of  Captain  George  B.  McClellan,  corps  of  Engineers. 

4.  Map  showing  the  several  barometric  profiles,  with  comparisons  of  such  as  come  into  com 
petition. 

5.  Sketch  of  the  tunnels  required  on  the  several  lines. 

The  result,  therefore,  of  the  year's  exploration,  has  been  to  establish  the  practicability  of  the 
northern  route  ;  but  it  is  not  believed  that  the  best  route  has  been  ascertained ;  and  it  is  known 
that  only  the  materials  have  been  collected  of  a  very  general  estimate  of  the  cost  of  the  road. 
An  approximate  estimate  can  be  made  by  throwing  the  whole  distance  into  parts,  having  a  com 
mon  character,  referring  them  to  similar  roads  in  the  States  of  which  the  cost  is  known ;  and 
thereby,  by  making  a  proper  allowance  for  the  changes  of  circumstances,  as  the  increased  price 
of  labor,  and  the  expense  incident  to  operating  on  a  long  line,  and  in  a  new  country,  arrive  at  the 
cost  of  the  road. 

It  is  important,  however,  that  the  field  should  be  extended  to  embrace  all  probable  routes,  that 
the  best  route  should  then  be  selected,  and  that  detailed  instrumental  surveys  be  made,  to  ascer 
tain  the  cost  and  determine  the  best  plan  of  construction. 

The  greatest  western  development  of  roads  is  now  in  Missouri  and  Iowa,  two  roads  being 
under  construction  in  the  former,  and  one  in  the  latter  State,  extending  to  their  western  bounda 
ries;  and  an  additional  road  being  projected,  and  soon  to  be  placed  under  construction  in  Iowa, 
from  Rock  Island  to  Council  Bluff's,  and  connecting  with  the  road  on  which  the  cars  now  run 
from  Chicago  to  Rock  Island. 

Roads  are  also  extending  from  Chicago  and  Milwaukie  to  points  on  the  Mississippi,  from  Rock 
Island  to  St.  Paul,  and  to  the  Fond  du  Lac  of  Lake  Superior  and  Green  Bay. 

An  examination  of  the  maps  will  show  that,  if  the  Black  Hills  are  practicable  for  roads,  the 
Hell  Gate  passes  are  in  most  admirable  connexion  both  with  the  roads  of  Missouri  and  Iowa, 
say  at  Council  Bluffs,  and  with  the  roads  from  the  Great  Lakes,  moving  through  Minnesota  and 
centering  in  the  grand  plateau  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux. 


158  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

These  examinations,  therefore,  become  of  great  consequence:  first,  from  the  Bois  des  Sioux 
across  the  Missouri,  through  the  Black  Hills  to  the  general  region  between  the  Yellowstone  and 
Missouri,  and  thence  to  the  best  of  the  Hell  Gate  passes,  (one  is  known  to  be  practicable  for  a 
railroad ; )  and  second,  from  the  western  frontier  of  Iowa  and  Missouri,  through  the  Sioux  hills, 
and  uniting  with  the  route  from  the  Bois  des  Sioux  and  entering  the  pass  together. 

The  Black  Hills  are  not  as  formidable  as  they  are  represented  on  the  map  ;  on  the  contrary,  quite 
an  extensive  region  examined  by  Dr.  Evans,  the  geologist  of  the  expedition,  south  of  the  Mis 
souri  and  Yellowstone,  showed  that  the  region  was  an  elevated  prairie  ;  and  information  has  been 
received  from  reliable  sources  that  the  country  is  almost  exclusively  prairie  in  a  straight  line  from 
the  Hell  Gate  passes  to  Council  Bluffs. 

Lieutenant  Mullan  writes  me  from  the  St.  Mary's  valley  that  this  is  the  opinion  of  his  inter 
preter,  Gabriel,  and  that  he  has  received  similar  information  from  a  trapper  who  was  familiar 
with  the  country.  Major  Ebbels,  of  San  Francisco,  a  very  intelligent  gentleman,  and  who  was  in 
the  employ  of  the  Fur  Company  for  many  years,  assures  me  that  the  hills  are  inconsiderable, 
and  would  not  be  an  obstacle. 

From  the  results  of  Dr.  Evans'  survey,  I  feel  disposed  to  give  much  weight  to  the  information 
thus  derived  from  Lieutenant  Mullan  and  Major  Ebbels,  and  will  therefore  propose,  in  the  event 
of  the  continuance  of  the  survey,  that  these  routes  be  explored. 

Should  they  prove  practicable,  the  northern  route  to  the  head  of  navigation  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  to  the  Great  Lakes,  will  be  abridged  about  one  hundred  miles.  The  whole  road,  assuming  St. 
Paul  and  the  Fond  du  Lac  of  Lake  Superior  as  the  starting  points,  will  be  between  the  45th  and 
4Sth  degrees  of  latitude.  The  distance  from  Seattle  by  the  Srioqualme  Pass,  to  Fond  du  Lac,  to 
St.  Paul  and  to  Chicago,  will  be  reduced  from  1,905,  1,892,  2,215,  to  1,805,  1,792,  and  2,115 
miles,  respectively. 

The  route  to  Council  Bluffs,  to  Chicago,  and  generally  to  the  roads  of  Iowa  and  Missouri,  will 
be  reduced  some  200  miles  on  that  by  the  South  Pass,  and  making  the  distances  from  Seattle  to 
Council  Bluffs  and  to  Chicago  1,670,  and  2,128  miles  by  the  Hell  Gate  passes,  and  1,992  and 
2,450  miles  by  the  South  Pass. 

So  much  for  the  importance  of  these  two  examinations  coming  within  the  scope  of  that  clause 
of  my  instructions  authorizing  me  to  despatch  the  force  not  required  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains 
homeward  by  new  routes.  At  Fort  Benton,  if  there  had  been  animals  to  spare,  I  should  have 
despatched  a  party  to  the  Platte  to  examine  one  of  the  routes.  My  attention  had  been  drawn 
to  it  before  leaving  Washington  city. 

Besides  which,  there  should  be  an  exploration  of  the  Snake  river  and  its  western  tributaries, 
and  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  from  the  South  Pass  to  the  49th  parallel,  so  far  as  may  not  be  com 
pleted  by  the  labors  of  Lieutenant  Mullan.  The  relations  of  the  Salt  Lake  settlement  with  the 
region  north  of  the  Rocky  mountains  should  be  thoroughly  established. 

The  country  should  be  explored  from  the  Columbia  lakes  to  the  waters  of  San  Francisco 
bay,  to  determine  the  best  connexion  between  a  road  having  its  terminus  in  the  Columbia  valley 
and  Puget  sound,  and  roads  having  their  terminus  on  the  waters  of  San  Francisco  bay.  It  is  a 
question  whether  this  connexion  can  best  be  made  west  of  the  Cascades  from  the  valley  of  the 
Willamette  to  that  of  the  Sacramento,  or  east  of  the  Cascades.  I  will  propose  an  exploration 
to  determine  the  practicability  of  connecting,  by  a  railroad,  the  two  great  valleys  of  the  Willa 
mette  and  the  Sacramento. 

The  relations  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  region,  both  with  the  waters  of  San  Francisco  bay  and 
the  Columbia  valley,  should  be  ascertained. 

I  will  also  recommend,  most  earnestly,  an  instrumental  survey  of  the  two  routes,  by  the  Co 
lumbia  valley  and  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  to  the  sound,  of  the  pass  or  passes  in  the  Rocky  mount 
ains  giving  the  best  connexion  with  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  head  of  navigation  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  and  the  roads  now  running  through  Iowa  and  Missouri,  of  different  intermediate  parts,  and 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  159 

of  collecting  such  other  information  as  will  test  the  relative  practicability  of  routes,  give  the  means 
of  making  an  estimate  of  the  cost,  plan  of  construction,  and  the  time  to  build  the  road. 

In  closing  this  report  I  will  respectfully  call  the  attention  of  the  department  to  the  several 
accompanying  reports,  which  will  be  found  to  present  accurately  the  many  routes  of  the  field  of 
exploration.  They  are  all  creditable  to  the  writers,  and  many  of  them  are  remarkably  able. 
The  reports  of  Captain  McClellan  will  show  with  what  ability  and  success  the  extended  explora 
tions  of  the  Cascades  were  conducted,  and  the  great  contribution  it  has  afforded  to  the  almost 
hitherto  unknown  geography  of  that  region  of  country. 

His  remarks  in  commendation  of  his  party  have  my  most  hearty  concurrence.  The  topo 
graphical  report  of  Mr.  John  Lambert  shows  him  to  be  as  successful  with  the  pen  as  with  his 
instruments. 

The  lucid  reports  of  Lieutenant  Donelson  present,  in  the  clearest  light,  the  general  charac 
teristics  of  his  railroad  line  from  Fort  Benton  to  Wallah-Wallah. 

The  extended  explorations  by  Lieutenant  Grover,  by  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and  by  Mr.  A.  W. 
Tinkham,  have  given  the  exploration  its  greatest  value,  as  they  have  solved  the  question  of  snow 
for  the  whole  region  east  of  the  Cascades,  and  have  made  the  solution  all  but  certain  in  the  Cas 
cades  themselves.  The  labors  of  Lieutenant  Saxton  have  been  of  the  greatest  service  to  the 
exploration.  The  reports  of  Dr.  Suckley  and  Lieutenant  Arnold,  and  of  Lieutenant  Macfeely, 
will  show  clearly  how  each  occupied  his  field. 

In  the  Indian  department  I  will  refer,  with  admiration,  to  the  contribution  made  by  Mr. 
George  Gibbs,  of  Captain  McClellan's  party,  and  to  the  labors  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan  and 
Mr.  Doty. 

There  will  be  found  a  valuable  report  from  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander  as  to  the  crossing  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  and  the  practicability  of  the  pass  of  the  lower  Columbia.  His  practical  experience  as  a 
railroad  engineer  and  contractor  has  enabled  him  to  make  many  excellent  suggestions,  which  I  beg 
leave  to  acknowledge. 

I  will  close  this  communication  by  adverting,  in  terms  of  the  highest  commendation,  to  the 
ability  with  which  Dr.  John  Evans  has  managed  the  geological  portion  of  the  work,  and  the 
great  contribution  he  has  personally  made  in  collections,  and  in  developing  the  geography  of  the 
country  travelled  over  by  him,  and  to  the  ability  which  has  been  shown  by  Professor  S.  F.  Baird, 
in  charge  of  the  natural  history,  assisted  by  those  devoted  and  promising  young  naturalists,  Dr. 
George  Suckley.  assistant  surgeon  United  States  army,  and  Dr.  J.  G.  Cooper. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 

HON.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War. 

NOTE. — The  additional  communications  from  Governor  Stevens,  received  since  this  report  was  submitted,  will  be  found  follow- 
in    the  papers  enumerated  above. 


160  TOPOGRAPHY    OF   ROUTE    FROM    THE    MISSISSIPPI    TO    THE   COLUMBIA. 

C,  E  X  E  R  A  I,  R  E  P  0  R  T  S . 
A. 

1.  REPORT  OF  THE  TOPOGRAPHY  OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER  TO  THE  COLUM 
BIA,  BY  JOHN  LAMBERT,  OF  THE  EXPLORATION. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  June  1,  1S54. 

SIR:  In  obedience  to  your  instructions,  I  submit  a  short  topographical  review  of  the  regions 
Ivinff  between  the  Mississippi  find  Columbia  rivers,  and  generally  between  the  4Gth  and  49th 
parallels  of  north  latitude,  as  developed  by  the  several  exploring  parties  attached  to  your 
expedition. 

Within  the  limits  stated  there  appear  to  be  three  grand  divisions,  having  boundaries  and  gen 
eral  characteristics  as  distinct  and  peculiar  as  can  be  conceived.  The  vast  prairies  extending 
from  the  Mississippi  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains  form  the  first  division,  lying  approx 
imately  between  the  94th,  112th,  and  113th  degrees  of  west  longitude.  The  second,  or  mountain 
division,  embraces  nearly  five  degrees  of  longitude,  and  is  comprised  between  the  great  prairies 
which  characterize  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  and  the  barren  plains  of  the  Columbia,  and,  from 
the  formidable  obstacles  which  it  everywhere  presents  to  communication,  and  in  connexion  with 
the  objects  of  the  expedition,  may  be  considered  of  more  immediate  importance  than  the  others. 
The  third  great  division  comprises  the  immense  plains  of  Columbia  river,  already  mentioned, 
which  become  directly  interesting  from  the  uncertainty  of  their  exact  character,  arising  from  the 
various  reports  of  travellers  and  exploring  parties. 

Observing  this  arrangement,  I  will  endeavor  to  give  a  general  description  of  each  of  these 
great  divisions,  embracing  as  much  minutirje  as  the  time  at  my  disposal  and  the  nature  of  a  pre 
liminary  and  simply  topographical  report  will  admit.  In  the  course  of  my  remarks,  the  main 
route  of  the  expedition  will  furnish  referring  points  while  considering  particular  localities,  and 
the  distances  occasionally  stated  will  be  air-lines,  rather  than  the  actual  measurements  obtained 
on  the  ground. 

That  part  of  the  first  division  lying  between  the  Mississippi  and  Shayenne  rivers  has  been 
made  so  well  known  already  by  the  labors  of  eminent  travellers,  that  it  seems  unnecessary  to 
do  more  than  take  a  passing  glance,  concurring  with  the  admirable  descriptions  already  extant, 
and  still  fresh  in  the  public  mind.  Undulating  and  level  prairies,  skirted  with  woods  of  various 
growth,  and  clothed  everywhere  with  a  rich  verdure,  frequent  and  rapid  streams,  with  innu 
merable  small  but  limpid  lakes,  frequented  by  multitudes  of  water-fowl,  most  conspicuous  among 
which  appears  the  stately  swan:  these,  in  ever-recurring  succession,  make  up  the  panorama  of 
this  extensive  district,  which  may  be  said  to  be  everywhere  fertile,  beautiful,  and  inviting.  The 
most  remarkable  features  of  this  region  are  the  intervals  of  level  prairie,  especially  that  near  the 
bend  of  Red  river,  where  the  horizon  is  as  unbroken  as  that  of  a  calm  sea.  Nor  arc  other  points 
of  resemblance  wanting:  the  long  grass,  which  in  such  places  is  unusually  rank,  bending  grace 
fully  to  the  passing  breeze  as  it  sweeps  along  the  plain,  gives  the  idea  of  waves,  (as  indeed  they 
are  such;)  and  the  solitary  horseman  on  the  horizon  is  so  indistinctly  seen  as  to  complete  the 
picture  by  the  suggestion  of  a  sail,  raising  the  first  feeling  of  novelty  to  a  character  of  wonder 
and  delight.  The  flowing  outlines  of  the  rolling  prairies  are  broken  only  by  the  small  lakes  and 
patches  of  timber  which  relieve  them  of  monotony  and  enhance  their  beauty  ;  and  though  marshes 
and  sloughs  occur,  they  are  of  too  small  extent  and  too  infrequent  to  affect  the  generally  attractive 
character  of  the  country.  The  elevation  of  the  rolling  prairies  is  generally  so  uniform,  that  even 
the  summits  between  streams  flowing  in  opposite  directions  exhibit  no  peculiar  features  to  distin 
guish  them  from  the  ordinary  character  of  the  valley  slopes. 


TOPOGRAPHY    OF    ROUTE    FROM    THE    MISSISSIPPI    TO    THE    COLUMBIA.  161 

The  country  near  the  Shayenne  as  it  flows  southward  assumes  a  bolder  character :  the 
swelling  surface  takes  the  forms  of  terraces  and  ridges ;  ponds  and  marshes  occur  more  fre 
quently  ;  timber  disappears  from  the  uplands;  the  prairie  becomes  gravelly  and  abounds  in 
granite  boulders ;  and  the  river  itself,  moderately  fringed  with  wood  of  different  kinds,  flows 
through  a  deep  intervale  enclosed  by  sand  and  clay  bluffs  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two 
hundred  feet  and  more  of  elevation,  which  are  again  surmounted  by  occasional  hills  sufficiently 
conspicuous  to  serve  as  landmarks  to  the  hunters,  and  associated  with  thrilling  reminiscences  of 
Indian  story. 

Leaving  the  Shayenne,  the  prairie  for  a  considerable  space  shows  no  material  change ;  a  salty 
efflorescence  appears  in  spots,  betokening  our  vicinity  to  Miniwakan  lake,  the  meridian  of  which 
may  be  generally  considered  as  the  limit  of  previously  authorized  explorations  north  of  the 
Missouri,  and  also  of  the  region  of  the  more  fertile  prairies,  the  pretty  wooded  Lake  Jessie 
being  the  last  well-known  object  on  the  route  pursued  by  the  expedition.  From  this  point 
westward,  and  a  little  north  of  west  for  more  than  forty  miles,  to  where  the  route  strikes  the 
Jacques  or  James  river  near  its  source,  the  country  presents  the  same  alternation  of  rolling 
prairie,  flat  intervals,  marshy  pools  and  small  lakes,  some  of  which  have  timber,  with  bluffy 
banks  ;  the  greater  number  bare,  with  a  level  shore-line.  The  Jacques  river  flows  from  this  point 
southeast  almost  parallel  to  tbe  course  of  the  Shayenne,  embracing  with  that  river  the  summit 
which,  in  this  region,  divides  the  waters  flowing  to  the  Red  river  and  the  Missouri.  This  sum 
mit  ridge,  rising  abruptly  from  the  Shayenne,  attains  its  greatest  altitude  in  successive  terraces; 
the  slope  is  more  uniform  towards  the  Jacques,  which  flows  between  low  banks,  and  for  a  long 
distance  without  timber.  The  ridge  terminates  towards  Dead  Colt  Hillock,  where  it  merges 
in  the  level  sweep  of  prairie  extending  from  the  Bois  des  Sioux ;  farther  south,  on  the  head 
waters  of  Wild  Rice  river,  rises  the  head  of  the  Coteau  des  Prairies,  leaving  an  interval  which 
at  once  strikes  the  eye  of  an  engineer  as  the  natural  roadway  through  this  great  labyrinth  of 
rivers,  the  only  obstruction  being  the  easy  crossing  of  the  Jacques. 

The  main  route,  about  thirty-five  miles  from  the  point  last  mentioned,  and  in  the  same  general 
course,  crosses  the  Shayenne  for  the  third  time;  here  this  river  flows  in  a  northeast  course,  making 
a  long  circuit  before  it  bends  to  the  south,  and  receiving  a  considerable  tributary  from  the  north 
west,  as  reported  by  the  guide.  It  presents  at  this  point  the  same  character  of  intervale  and  steep 
bluffs,  but  less  water,  and  no  timber.  Five  miles  farther  rises  the  Butte  de  Morale,  one  of  the 
ordinary  prairie  hills,  so  named  to  commemorate  some  incident  of  the  hunting  ground  or  the  war 
path.  From  the  top  of  this  hill  the  aspect  of  the  country  grows  wilder  and  more  hilly,  in  other 
respects  maintaining  the  same  general  character.  It  will  serve  somewhat  further  to  indicate 
the  topography  of  this  section  to  state  that,  from  Lake  Jessie  to  Mouse  river,  a  distance  of  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles,  timber  was  only  once  met  with  in  the  ravines  of  some  hills 
surrounding  a  small  lake  about  midway  between  the  Shayenne  and  Mouse  rivers ;  an  abundant 
substitute  for  firewood,  however,  is  found  in  the  dried  buffalo  chips — still  more  elegantly  called 
the  "bois  de  vache" — which  makes  it  unnecessary  for  travellers  and  hunters  to  leave  their  direct 
course  for  the  small  wooded  lakes.  From  this  point  also  is  seen  the  coteau  of  the  Missouri  looming 
prominently  on  the  horizon,  and  marking  the  limit  of  the  more  open  prairie.  Keeping  a  north 
west  direction,  the  coteau  culminates,  so  to  speak,  in  the  Dog  House  hill,  the  most  conspicuous 
object  on  the  plateau ;  stih1,  in  the  same  course,  it  bounds  the  narrow  valley  of  Mouse  river, 
which  presents  a  similar  but  not  so  bold  a  formation  on  the  other  side,  the  width  of  the  valley  as 
far  as  seen  being  less  than  twenty  miles.  The  direction  and  appearance  of  the  coteau  at  once 
destroy  the  supposition  of  any  waters  of  Mouse  river  rising  within  a  mile  of  the  Missouri,  as  pre 
viously  reported,  and  so  represented  on  the  most  authentic  maps.  Wintering  river  is  the  only 
branch  of  Mouse  river  crossed  by  the  route  of  the  expedition,  and  is  more  of  a  slough  than  a 
river — the  stream  being  hardly  perceptible  through  the  pools  created  by  the  track  of  the  buffalo. 
No  fact  of  this  kind  was  reported  by  the  guides,  and  Wintering  river  was  actually  headed  by  one  of 
21/ 


162  TOPOGRAPHY    OF    ROUTE    FROM    THE    MISSISSIPPI    TO    THE    COLUMBIA. 

the  small  detached  parties,  though  without  having  this  circumstance  especially  in  view;  and  it 
is  impossible  to  suppose  that  such  an  insignificant  water-course  should  have  a  length  and  volume 
necessary  to  penetrate  the  formidable  plateau  of  the  Missouri. 

This  misconception  is  stated  at  length  to  show  the  uncertain  character  of  information  supplied 
by  guides,  who,  however  well  acquainted  with  the  country  in  which  they  hunt  and  live,  are  rarely 
capable  of  expressing  themselves  with  reference  to  any  subject  foreign  to  their  own  pursuits, 
besides  bein<*  always  liable  to  be  misunderstood  from  the  contusion  of  tongues  which  is  usually 
heard  on  the  outskirts  of  civilization.  It  is  but  justice  here  to  say  that  a  signal  exception  to 
these  remarks  was  ever  presented  in  the  intelligent  and  exact  description  of  our  French  guide,  Mr. 
La  Bombard,  who  accompanied  the  main  train  to  Fort  Benton. 

Mouse  river  presents  a  new  river  character  in  the  deep  and  ramified  coulees  which  intersect 
the  valley  in  every  direction,  in  other  respects  closely  resembling  the  Shayenne,  having  a  narrow 
but  dense  fringe  of  oak,  ash,  maple,  and  other  timber,  filling  the  intervale,  and  extending  some 
way  up  the  intricate  coulees  ;  in  some  of  which  are  found  small  streams  in  sandy  beds,  and  massive 
sandstone  rocks.  Many  of  them  reach  to  the  edge  of  ihe  Missouri  plateau,  which  is  here  well 
defined  ;  and  in  the  examination  for  a  good  passage  for  the  wagon  train,  secluded  spots  were  found 
where  beetling  crag  and  winding  stream,  venerable  trees  and  greenest  sward,  combined  in  scenes 
of  much  picturesque  beauty. 

The  main  route  strikes  Mouse  river  at  its  most  southerly  bend,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  miles  from  Lake  Jessie,  from  which  point  the  river  turns  abruptly  northward  towards  its 
confluence  with  the  Assiniboin.  In  the  same  general  course  of  northwest  the  route  runs  nearly 
parallel  to  the  course  of  Mouse  river,  heading  the  coulees  for  thirty  miles,  when  the  river  is 
found  coming  down  from  the  north,  being  joined  at  this  turning  point  by  the  Riviere  des  Lacs, 
which  flows  southeast  from  the  most  northern  edge  of  the  great  plateau,  of  which  it  may  be 
assumed  as  a  boundary.  From  Dog  House  hill  to  the  junction  of  the  Riviere  des  Lacs  the 
coteau  decreases  in  elevation,  until  blended  insensibly  with  the  rolling  prairies  rising  from  that 
river.  On  the  approach  to  these  high  prairies  from  the  more  open  country  the  swelling  outline 
assumes  the  appearance  of  a  distant  coast,  which  seems  to  rise  in  a  direction  parallel  to  the 
route  of  the  traveller,  and  suggests  the  idea  of  a  plateau  or  bench  of  table-land  beyond  ;  hence  the 
use  of  the  word  "  coteau."  But  this  appearance  has  proved  so  frequently  deceptive  with  reference 
to  the  extent  of  tracts  exhibiting  it,  that  only  a  thorough  exploration  can  be  relied  upon:  thus  the 
preliminary  sketches  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Union  represented  this  phantom  coteau  running 
in  whatever  direction  the  line  of  examination  was  conducted;  so  that  it  will  be  only  when  all  the 
detached  surveys  are  combined  that  the  exact  extent  of  these  plateaux  can  be  determined. 

The  plateau  between  Missouri  and  Mouse  rivers  cannot  be  called  simply  a  rolling  prairie, 
though  in  detail  resembling  the  hilly  prairies  noticed,  but  in  a  very  exaggerated  degree :  a  general 
similarity  of  outlines;  the  absence  of  wood  and  rocks  in  place;  boulders  plentiful;  ponds  and 
marshes  if  possible  more  frequent ;  but  the  elevations  so  much  greater  as  to  be  almost  considered 
mountainous,  and  becoming  still  more  rugged  on  the  approach  to  Fort  Union,  where  it  ends 
abruptly  on  the  level  intervale  of  the  Missouri.  It  is  intersected  by  numerous  water-courses, 
which  run  dry  in  summer,  showing  the  same  character  of  sandy  and  clayey  soil  in  the  bottoms, 
which  is  also  seen  in  the  rain-worn  sections  of  the  most  elevated  points.  The  principal  of  these 
is  the  White  Earth  river,  its  character  being  partly  indicated  by  its  name,  heading  in  several 
marshy  lakes  within  the  limits  of  the  plateau,  and  flowing  in  a  winding  southerly  course  to  the 
Missouri  about  fifty  miles  east  of  Fort  Union.  Vegetation  is  generally  scanty  on  this  plateau ; 
grass  is  rank  in  the  bottoms,  but  mostly  thin  and  inferior  for  grazing;  the  prickly  pear,  the  most 
common  kind  of  cactus,  begins  to  appear;  and  the  wild  turnip  is  found  in  comparative  abundance, 
being  the  only  useful  production,  and  probably  the  only  vegetable  food  of  the  wandering  Indians, 
by  whom  it  is  regularly  gathered. 

North  of  the  plateau  an  admirable  reconnaissance  by  Mr.  Lander  develops  a  low,  marshy 


TOPOGRAPHY   OF    ROUTE    FROM    THE    MISSISSIPPI    TO    THE    COLUMBIA.  103 

prairie,  extending  with  little  variation  of  surface  to  the  head  of  Mouse  river,  beyond  the  forty- 
ninth  parallel ;  returning  from  which  river  to  Fort  Union,  the  plateau  is  found  declining  to  a 
\vide  valley  or  coulee,  connecting  almost  directly  with  the  Missouri  in  a  southwest  direction,  offer 
ing  a  good  chance  to  turn  the  coteau  in  an  engineering  view,  and  becoming  thus  another  im 
portant  kty  point  on  the  railroad  route. 

From  the  Shayenne  to  Fort  Union  a  great  many  particulars  are  necessarily  passed  over,  as  a 
detailed  notice  of  them  would  stretch  to  tediousness:  the  number  of  small  ponds  and  marshes 
(the  nurseries  of  myriads  of  frops  which  positively  rise  in  shoals  when  intruded  upon)  are  almost 
beyond  counting,  and  could  not  possibly  be  represented  on  a  general  map;  salt  marshes  and 
salt-water  lakes  occur  irregularly;  around  some  of  the  small  lakes  the  air  is  impregnate  with  the 
offensive  exhalations  from  their  waters;  and,  in  one  instance,  a  narrow  neck  but  a  few  yards 
wide  separates  a  lake  of  purest  fresh  water  from  another  which  is  intensely  salt.  Further  notice 
of  such  facts  belongs  more  properly  to  the  province  of  the  mineralogist,  and  need  not  be  extended 
in  a  topographical  sketch. 

The  Missouri  from  the  Yellowstone  to  Milk  river  is  a  wide  and  turgid  stream,  with  an  ever- 
shitting  channel  choked  with  sand-bars,  which  are  influenced  by  every  storm ;  its  great  volume 
of  water,  however,  insuring  a  navigable  channel  on  one  side  or  other.  It  flows  with  a  very  sinuous 
course  through  an  intervale  of  variable  width,  enclosed  by  the  tall  bluffs  of  the  plateaux  on  either 
side,  which  sometimes  project  upon  the  bank,  in  some  places  leaving  an  intervale  of  five  or  six 
miles;  it  is  generally  deeply  fringed  with  the  cotton-wood  and  its  congeners,  and  occasionally  a 
dense  underbrush,  affording  a  secure  haunt  to  the  fierce  grizzly  bear;  good  grazing  occurs  in  spots, 
but  is  generally  better  among  the  bluffs  and  coulees  than  on  the  plain,  where  the  soil  is  mostly 
hard  and  dusty,  affording,  it  might  be  supposed,  but  a  scanty  sustenance  even  to  the  swarms 
of  grasshoppers,  which  in  certain  conditions  of  the  atmosphere  take  wing,  and  are  seen  drifting  in 
a  darkening  cloud  for  hours  before  the  wind.  The  bluffs  are  composed  mainly  of  a  soft,  half- 
formed  sandstone,  which  crumbles  under  a  slight  pressure,  and  is  washed  by  the  rains  into  the 
most  fantastic  shapes,  resembling  fortifications  and  ordinary  buildings;  one  of  these  near  the  con 
fluence  of  Big  Muddy  river  is  well  known  as  the  "Cottage  Rock."  The  sandstone,  or  rather 
sand-rock,  as  it  washes  away,  discovers  petrifactions  and  lignites  of  a  large  size,  and  is  sometimes 
heard  falling  in  large  masses  with  a  dull,  muffled  sound.  These  are  the  "Mauvaises  Terres,"  or 
Bad  Lands  of  the  hunters,  which  occur  at  irregular  intervals  all  along  the  Missouri,  and  many 
of  its  tributaries,  and  in  some  places  are  of  great  extent.  The  columnar  and  grotesque  forms 
which  are  seen  in  great  numbers  in  such  places,  are  probably  owing  to  the  unequal  induration 
or  cohesion  of  what  was  the  upper  stratum  of  a  vast  alluvial  deposit;  the  softer  parts  yielding 
quickly  to  the  "scooping  action  of  denudation,"  while  the  harder  portion  of  the  sand-rock 
became  so  many  fixed  points — foundations,  as  it  were — for  the  formation  of  a  column,  the  structure 
commencing  at  the  top.  A  better  idea  of  their  appearance  cannot  be  furnished  than  by  giving 
an  extract  from  a  most  effective  description  by  Dr.  Evans,  in  Owen's  Geological  Survey:  * 

"  To  the  surrounding  country,  however,  the  Mauvaises  Terres  present  the  most  striking  contrast. 
From  the  uniform,  monotonous  open  prairie,  the  traveller  suddenly  descends  one  or  two  hundred 
feet,  into  a  valley  that  looks  as  if  it  sunk  away  from  the  surrounding  world,  leaving  standing  all 
over  it  thousands  of  abrupt,  irregular,  prismatic  and  columnar  masses,  frequently  capped  with 
irregular  pyramids,  and  stretching  up  to  a  height  of  from  one  to  two  hundred  feet  or  more.  So 
thickly  are  these  natural  towers  studded  over  the  surface  of  this  extraordinary  region,  that  the 
traveller  threads  his  way  through  deep,  confined  labyrinthine  passages,  not  unlike  the  narrow, 
irregular  streets  and  lanes  of  some  quaint  old  town  of  the  European  continent.  Viewed  in  the 
distance,  indeed,  these  rocky  piles,  in  their  endless  succession,  assume  the  appearance  of  massive 
artificial  structures,  decked  out  with  all  the  accessories  of  buttress  and  turret,  arched  doorway, 
and  clustered  shaft,  pinnacle,  and  finial  and  tapering  spire.  One  might  almost  imagine  oneself 
*  Report  of  a  Geological  Survey  of  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  and  Minnesota,  by  D.  D.  Owen,  page  197. 


164  TOPOGRAPHY    OF   ROUTE   FROM    THE   MISSISSIPPI    TO    THE   COLUMBIA. 

approaching  some  magnificent  city  of  the  dead,  where  the  labor  and  genius  of  forgotten  nations 
had  left  behind  them  a  multitude  of  monuments  of  art  and  skill. 

"  On  descending  from  the  heights,  however,  and  inspecting  in  detail  its  deep  intricate  recesses, 
the  realities  of  the  scene  soon  dissipate  the  illusions  of  the  distance.  The  castellated  forms  which 
fancy  had  conjured  up  have  vanished,  and  around  one  on  every  side  is  bleak  and  barren  desola 
tion.  Then,  too,  if  the  exploration  is  made  in  midsummer,  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun,  pour 
ing  down  in  the  hundred  defiles  that  conduct  the  wayfarer  through- this  pathless  waste,  are 
reflected  back  from  the  white  or  ash-colored  walls  that  rise  around,  unmitigated  by  a  breath  of 
air  or  the  shelter  of  a  solitary  shrub. 

"  The  drooping  spirits  of  the  scorched  geologist  are  not,  however,  permitted  to  flag.  The 
fossil  treasures  of  the  way  well  repay  its  dullness  and  fatigue." 

The  scientific  explorer  finds  inexhaustible  sources  of  interesting  speculation,  even  in  the  midst 
of  these  desolate  wastes.  But  the  curiosity  of  the  mere  tourist  is  soon  sated  in  such  arid  and 
gloomy  wilds;  he  hastens  to  find  again  some  grassy  oasis  and  umbrageous  shade,  and  remembers 
the  Mauvaises  Torres  as  a  very  skeleton  of  nature,  or  the  wreck  of  an  embryonic  world. 

The  character  of  the  Missouri,  and  its  facilities  for  navigation,  will  be  fully  developed,  from  the 
States  to  the  Falls,  by  the  surveys  of  Lieutenants  Donelson  and  Grover. 

The  streams  flowing  into  the  Missouri  between  Fort  Union  and  Milk  river  are  Little  Muddy 
river,  a  small  stream  with  clay  banks  and  clay  and  pebbly  bottom,  with  underbrush  in  a  few 
places ;  it  has  a  few  branches  heading  in  marshes,  and  mostly  dry  in  summer.  Next,  Big  Muddy, 
or  Martha's  river,  a  large  sluggish  stream  in  a  soft  clay  bed,  which  keeps  the  water  always 
discolored  and  thick;  it  flows  in  a  deeper  valley  than  the  others,  and  is  everywhere  difficult  to 
cross;  it  has  no  timber  or  underbrush  except  near  the  Missouri,  and  flows  from  side  to  side  of  its 
narrow  valley,  making  a  series  of  regular  and  similar  figures.  Next,  Poplar  river,  a  rapid  stream 
over  a  sandy  and  pebbly  bottom;  it  is  pretty  well  fringed  with  poplar  and  cotton- wood,  and 
has  a  similar  regularly  sinuous  course.  Next,  Porcupine  river,  in  a  sandy  bed,  and  not  much 
water — scattered  trees  and  underbrush  near  the  Missouri.  There  are  other  smaller  water-courses, 
dry  in  summer. 

All  these  streams  head  in  the  small  lakes  and  marshes  of  the  plateau,  flowing  nearly  in  right 
angles  to  the  Missouri.  They  have  no  great  length  of  course,  or  anything  calling  for  particular 
notice,  except  that  the  deep  valleys  which  they  have  scooped  through  the  plateau  oppose  serious 
obstructions  to  a  direct  line  of  travel,  and  make  it  necessary,  or  at  least  advisable,  to  keep  along 
the  Missouri  bottom. 

Milk  river  joins  the  Missouri  one  hundred  and  five  miles  due  west  of  Fort  Union.  Its  direction 
up  stream  is  northwest  for  fifty-five  miles,  where  it  is  joined  by  a  considerable  branch  from  the 
north,  which,  like  the  main  river,  is  fringed  with  cotton-wood  ;  thence  generally  due  west,  for  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  miles;  and  again  northwest,  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles,  to  its  sources  in  the  great  prairies.  It  will  be  remembered  that  the  distances  stated  would 
probably  be  trebled  by  the  sinuosities  of  the  river,  and  are  even  less  than  the  straightest  lines 
that  could  be  drawn  through  the  interval;  the  object  being  to  present  only  a  general  view  of  the 
most  important  features.  Milk  river — so  named  from  the  extraordinary  whiteness  of  its  water, 
which  is  thick  with  chalky  solution  and  fine  sand — may  be  considered  a  miniature  of  the  Mis 
souri,  resembling  it  in  most  particulars,  and  differing  only  in  magnitude  and  one  other  point, 
namely,  that  through  more  than  its  upper  half  the  river-bed  is  apparently  dry,  the  water  per 
colating  through  the  quicksands,  which  are  of  considerable  depth,  and  occasionally  forming  deep 
pools  where  water  can  always  be  procured.  The  running  stream  is  seen  again  in  the  little 
branches  from  the  Three  Buttes,  and  probably  in  other  sources.  A  branch  is  supposed  to  head  in 
a  considerable  salt  lake,  called  Pakokee,  between  the  Three  Buttes  and  Cypress  mountain;  but 
this  is  not  satisfactorily  established.  At  the  last  turning  point  mentioned,  it  is  joined  by  a  small 
fork,  coming  from  the  southwest  about  thirty  miles,  and  heading  in  coulees  within  thirty  miles  (in. 


TOPOGRAPHY   OF   ROUTE   FROM    THE   MISSISSIPPI    TO    THE   COLUMBIA.  165 

the  same  course)  of  the  junction  of  the  Marias  and  Missouri  rivers.  In  the  space  embraced  by 
the  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers  are  two  distinct  groups  of  mountains,  the  first  that  are  seen  on  the 
route — the  Bear's  Paw  group  filling  the  western  end  of  the  enclosed  section;  the  Little  Rocky 
mountains  occupying  the  centre,  besides  groups  of  prairie  hills.  These  mountains  abound  in 
varieties  of  pine  timber,  and  practical  roadways  are  reported ;  but  Milk  river,  from  its  unex 
pected  directness  from  its  mouth  to  the  turning-point  north  of  Bear's  Paw  mountains,  and  from 
its  firm  and  level  though  narrow  intervale,  is  emphatically  the  natural  highway  westward  through 
this  section  of  the  prairies.  The  mountains  it  embraces,  with  the  Missouri,  will  be  fully  developed 
by  the  explorations  of  Dr.  Evans  and  Lieut.  Grover,  reports  of  which  have  not  yet  been  received. 

From  the  route  on  the  fork  of  the  Milk  river,  along  the  western  base  of  the  Bear's  Paw  mount 
ains,  an  isolated  mountain  group  (the  Three  Buttes,  already  mentioned)  is  seen  distinctly  for 
several  days,  to  the  northwest,  at  a  distance  of  seventy  miles,  as  ascertained  by  the  intersection 
of  frequent  compass  observations  from  the  line  of  the  odometer  survey.  The  position  of  every 
prominent  hill  was  accurately  fixed  in  this  manner,  and  served  to  give  greater  precision  to  the 
several  lines  of  exploration  which  passed  them  with  estimated  distances.  On  approaching  the 
mountains,  it  is  surprising  how  clearly  the  most  distant  objects  can  be  distinguished.  The  atmo 
sphere  becomes  so  transparent,  that  it  is  only  the  curvature  of  the  earth's  surface  that  limits  the 
view  from  the  highest  points ;  the  crevices  and  minute  features  of  distant  hills  appear  so  well 
defined,  that  all  previous  ideas  of  distance  are  disturbed ;  and  amusing  mistakes  are  made  by  par 
ties  intent  on  exploring  some  interesting  feature,  apparently  only  a  few  miles  off,  but  which,  when 
tried,  turns  out  to  be  a  fair  day's  journey. 

The  Three  Buttes  are  well  wooded  with  pine,  and  watered  by  small  streams  flowing  to  the 
different  rivers  of  the  prairies.  Their  greatest  altitude  above  the  plain  is  about  three  thousand 
three  hundred  feet;  and  from  the  summit  the  view  is  highly  illustrative  of  the  surrounding 
country,  embracing  every  prominent  object  within  a  hundred  miles.  On  the  north,  about  ninety 
miles,  stands  Cypress  mountain,  far  over  the  49th  parallel ;  on  the  east  and  northeast,  the  inter 
minable  prairies;  on  the  southeast,  the  Bear's  Paw  mountains;  on  the  south,  the  various  detached 
groups  of  mountains  beyond  the  Missouri;  and  on  the  west,  about  ninety  miles,  is  seen  the 
dividing  ridge  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  which  is  itself  the  boundary  of  the  prairies  in  this  direc 
tion,  having  none  of  the  broken  spurs  which  present  an  easier  access  farther  south.  The  inter 
vening  regions  present  but  few  objects  to  arrest  the  eye;  they  are  intersected  by  the  various  rivers 
and  their  branches,  which  are  hidden,  even  with  their  timber,  in  the  deep  intervales  common  to 
them  all.  It  may  suffice  to  say  that  there  are  probably  few  other  places  in  the  world  where 
twenty  thousand  square  miles  can  be  embraced  in  the  view  from  a  single  point. 

Marias  river  is  the  first  of  the  prairie  streams  having  its  sources  at  the  base  of  the  mountains. 
Its  general  course  is  southeast  by  east,  and  its  length  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles.  It 
resembles  the  Missouri  in  its  character  of  intervale  and  tall  steep  bluffs,  which,  with  its  fringe  of 
cotton-wood,  disappears  altogether  near  its  sources.  Within  a  mile  of  its  mouth  it  receives  the 
Teton  or  Tansey  river,  a  smaller  stream  of  similar  character,  rising  also  at  the  base  of  the 
mountains.  These  rivers  appear  to  have  worn  quite  down  through  the  soft  formations  of  the 
prairies,  and  flow  in  clear  and  rapid  streams  on  the  underlying  indurated  strata.  Marias  river  is 
reported  by  competent  judges  to  be  capable  of  improvement,  so  as  to  be  navigable  by  light 
steamers  for  fifty  miles  of  its  length. 

From  the  crossing  of  Marias  river  near  its  mouth  to  Fort  Benton,  it  is  about  eleven  or  twelve 
miles,  southwest.  About  half  that  way  the  Teton  and  Missouri  flow  so  near  each  other  that  the 
traveller  perceives  their  waters  from  the  dividing  bluff,  apparently  not  more  than  one  hundred 
yards  apart,  but  really  much  more,  of  course.  About  fifty  miles  more,  in  the  same  course  from 
Fort  Benton,  reaches  Suji  river,  eight  or  nine  miles  from  its  mouth.  This  distance  is  through  the 
high  prairie  between  the  Missouri  and  Teton,  presenting  the  usual  plateau  character  of  bluffs  and 
coulees,  and  containing  the  most  considerable  field  of  prickly  pear  that  was  seen;  some  dog  vil- 


166  TOPOGRAPHY   OF   ROUTE   FROM    THE    MISSISSIPPI    TO    THE   COLUMBIA. 

lages,  and  one  or  two  small  lakes.  Medicine  or  Sun  river  forms  a  boundary  between  the  mount 
ains  and  the  prairies,  and  exhibits  a  mixed  character  of  bluffy  intervale,  open  valley,  and  mount 
ain  rapid;  having  an  easterly  course  about  eighty  miles  in  length,  and  joining  the  Missouri  above 
the  Great  Falls.  It  rises  in  a  few  small  branches,  where  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Rocky  mount 
ains  begins  to  break  down  into  spurs  and  valleys  towards  the  Missouri ;  and  when  the  traveller 
has  crossed  this  river,  he  perceives  that  he  is  quitting  the  great  prairies  and  entering  the  mountain 
region. 

Of  the  twelve  hundred  miles  travelled  distance  from  St.  Paul  of  prairie  country  between  the 
upper  Mississippi  and  the  Rocky  mountains  examined  by  the  several  parties  of  the  expedition, 
the  finest  section  is  that  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Shayenne,  embracing  some  of  the  rivers  on 
the  western  slope  of  the  Mississippi  basin,  as  the  Sauk,  the  Watab,  Little  Falls  creek,  &c.,  and 
the  summits  between  these  waters  and  the  various  affluents  of  the  Red  river,  the  Minnesota  or  St. 
Peter's  river,  and  the  Missouri.  The  greater  part  of  this  section,  as  noticed  in  the  commence 
ment  of  this  report,  is  considered  by  parties  of  approved  experience  to  resemble  the  most  favored 
<fcstriets  of  Ohio  and  Wisconsin  ;  and  there  can  be  no  question  of  its  great  capacity  and  resources, 
even  while  confining  the  examination  to  its  surface  only. 

Towards  the  Missouri  plateau,  and  northwards  over  Mouse  river  to  the  Assiuiboin,  the  country 
is  comparatively  of  inferior  character,  though  abounding,  probably,  in  greater  quantity  and  variety 
of  game;  which,  with  its  red  hunters,  is  ever  found  retiring  before  the  pioneers  of  the  white 
man's  progress.  From  Fort  Union  westward  the  aspect  of  the  country  is  almost  uniformly  wild 
and  barren ;  and  this,  not  because  the  country  becomes  so  much  more  inferior,  as  for  reasons 
referable  to  uniformity  of  elevation  and  dryness  of  the  climate,  which  apply  more  or  less  to  all 
the  great  plains  north  and  south  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Rocky  mountains.  The  great 
mountain  ranges  near  either  coast  of  the  continent  exclude  the  fertilizing  ocean  vapors  from  the 
far  interior ;  and  even  the  slight  degree  of  moisture  which  the  waters  of  the  high  prairies  afford 
to  the  atmosphere  is  floated  off  to  the  mountains  before  it  is  precipitated  in  rain  ;  hence,  proba 
bly,  the  total  absence  of  timber,  except  in  the  river  bottoms,  and  the  thinness  of  the  grass,  which, 
as  well  as  the  earth  itself,  in  early  summer  becomes  parched  and  browned  under  cloudless  skies 
and  scorching  suns. 

Along  with  such  general  reasons  must  be  mentioned  the  more  particular  one,  of  the  frequent 
prairie  fires  which  mark  the  tracks  of  Indian  tribes  and  half-breed  hunters.  The  prairie  is  often 
fired  as  a  signal  to  distant  parties,  and  not  unfrequently  for  very  trifling  purposes;  and,  if  left 
unquenched,  will  sweep  over  the  country  until  stopped  by  a  river,  and  leave  an  appearance  of 
utter  desolation.  The  eye  grows  weary  travelling  over  the  naked  outlines  of  the  successive 
plateaux,  which,  divided  and  bounded  by  the  various  rivers  noticed,  form  but  subdivisions  of  the 
great  tract  of  country  stretching  from  Missouri  and  Milk  rivers  on  the  south,  to  the  Saskachawan 
on  the  north — this  tract  itself  but  a  subdivision  of  the  Great  Plains — an  extent  embracing  every 
variety  of  surface,  from  large  and  level  plains  to  abrupt  bluffs  and  ranges  of  summit  hills  that 
might  be  considered  mountains.  It  is  difficult  to  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  the  immensity  of 
these  dreary  solitudes.  Let  it  be  remembered  that  a  few  minutes'  reading  embraces  sections  which 
require  tedious  weeks  to  traverse ;  and  that  even  travelling  over  and  observing  them  with  the 
patient  labor  of  months,  leaves  but  a. feeling  of  their  vastness,  which  baffles  the  effort  to  express 
it.  The  impressive  silence  of  succeeding  days  is  broken  at  rare  intervals  by  the  crack  of  some 
stray  hunter's  rifle,  or  perchance  by  the  yell  of  painted  warriors  on  a  foray  ;  but  when  the 
twilight  wanes  over  the  peaceful  camp,  when  the  evening  meal  is  over,  and  the  incidents  of  the 
march  are  recounted,  then  the  "drowsy  ear  of  night"  is  roused  to  listen  to  the  prolonged  and 
melancholy  cry  of  prowling  wolves. 

The  verdure  of  these  regions,  though  growing  thinner  and  comparatively  inferior  as  we  go 
\vestward,  never  entirely  disappears  anywhere,  if  the  faces  of  the  steep  bluffs  upon  the  rivers  be 
excepted ;  artemisia  and  small  cacti  are  occasionally  met  with,  but  not  in  great  quantities,  and 


TOPOGRAPHY    OF    ROUTE    FROM    THE    MISSISSIPPI    TO    THE   COLUMBIA.  1C7 

even  where  they  do  appear,  not  exclusively  monopolizing  the  soil :  and  though  the  wild  aspect 
and  dull  colors  of  the  landscape  in  many  and  extensive  sections  might  induce  a  supposition  of 
barrenness,  the  idea  must  be  greatly  qualified,  if  not  removed,  by  the  fact  that  all  these  regions 
are  the  pasture-grounds  of  frequent  herds  of  various  kinds  of  d'eer,  particularly  of  the  graceful 
antelope,  with  quantities  of  inferior  game  arid  species  of  vermin,  and,  last  and  greatest,  the 
unfailing  millions  of  the  uncouth  and  ponderous  buffalo. 

On  the  approach  to  Fort  Benton  from  the  Bear's  Paw  mountains,  the  Highwood,  Girdle,  and 
other  mountain  groups  south  of  the  Missouri,  appear  and  are  passed  in  succession,  exciting  the 
traveller's  attention  as  they  stand  with  reference  to  the  great  Rocky  range,  like  the  preface  of  a 
new  and  interesting  book ;  they  all  abound  in  pine,  cedar,  &c.,  and  are  watered  by  numerous 
small  streams,  which  fertilize  the  extensive  prairie  valleys  between  the  mountains,  affording  good 
pasture  for  the  game  of  the  country,  and  large  bands  of  Indian  horses.  The  highest  peaks  have 
an  immediate  altitude  of  about  1,800  feet,  apparently,  and  the  sight  of  their  blue  summits  makes  a 
welcome  relief  to  the  monotony  of  the  prairies.  Soon  the  cloudy  heights  of  the  Rocky  mountains 
come  dimly  into  view,  towering  in  mid  air,  and  rousing  all  hearts  and  nerving  every  arm  for 
the  things  that,  in  anticipation,  are  to  be  attempted  and  endured;  a  few  days  of  recruiting,  con 
sultation  and  arrangement  at  Fort  Benton,  and  the  convenient  wagons  are  reluctantly  relinquished  ; 
every  kind  of  weight  that  can  be  dispensed  with  is  set  aside  ;  packs  are  carefully  balanced  ; 
exploring  parties  are  arranged  for  the  various  routes ;  long  farewells  are  exchanged,  and  once 
more  the  several  parties  press  forward  to  their  most  serious  task. 

The  character  of  the  mountain  approaches  is  as  various  as  the  number  of  passes  that  have  been 
explored.  From  the  sources  of  Medicine  river  to  the  49th  parallel,  a  distance  of  over  100  miles, 
the  dividing  ridge  rises  so  abruptly  from  the  great  plains  as  to  present  everywhere  the  appear 
ance  of  being  totally  inaccessible,  though  it  is  not  unlikely  that  a  small  determined  party  might 
scramble  through,  or  over  it,  at  any  given  point.  As  seen  from  the  Blackfoot  trail,  the  eastern 
front  of  the  ridge  rises  with  a  slope  too  steep  to  allow  the  accumulation  of  soil,  and  their  naked, 
frowning  peaks  seem  to  be  conscious  of  their  forbidding  greatness,  and  to  threaten  destruction  to 
the  adventurous  traveller.  In  this  extent  but  one  practicable  horse-trail  is  known — that  called 
Marias  Pass,  at  the  head  of  the  same  named  river — and  is  of  such  a  difficult  and  even  dangerous 
character,  that  it  is  but  rarely  used ;  the  Indians  preferring  to  cross  the  mountains  by  a  long 
detour  to  the  south.  The  relations  between  the  tribes  on  either  side  may  possibly  also  affect 
the  choice  of  way.  The  next  is  an  easy  pass  on  the  head  of  Medicine  river,  believed  to  have  been 
used  by  Lewis  and  Clark  ;  it  is  of  easy  access  from  the  prairies,  and  maintains  the  preference 
first  given  to  it  for  the  railroad  route.  The  next,  again,  is  on  the  south  fork  of  Dearborn  river, 
known  as  Cadolte's  Pass,  on  the  Blackfoot  trail,  and  is,  probably,  the  most  difficult  of  the  prac 
ticable  road-ways,  both  on  the  approach  and  in  the  pass  itself;  it  was  used  by  the  main  train  of 
the  expedition,  and  will  be  the  subject  of  further  notice  in  this  report.  Not  many  miles  farther 
south  are  two  good  passes  between  the  forks  of  Hell  Gate  river  and  small  streams  flowing  to 
the  Missouri ;  they  are  reported  as  highly  favorable  for  wagon-roads,  and  are,  one  or  both,  no 
doubt,  the  "grand  defile"  of  the  older  maps.  A  sixth  pass,  called  the  "Big  Hole  Mountain,"  on 
Wisdom  fork  of  Missouri,  and  at  the  head  of  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  was  examined  and  reported 
upon  favorably  in  time  for  the  preliminary  report.  At  a  slight  expense  it  can  be  made  practi 
cable  for  wagons,  and  will  give  a  good  connexion  between  the  northern  and  central  emigrant 
routes.  Other  passes  were  explored  by  the  winter  parties ;  so  that  a  thorough  account  of  the 
mountain  passes  may  be  looked  for  from  Fort  Hall  to  the  49th  parallel.  Although  the  mountains 
will,  of  course,  be  made  more  fully  known  when  the  surveys  are  brought  to  a  close,  enough, 
however,  is  known  from  the  surveys  received  to  give  a  good  general  idea  of  the  configuration  of 
the  mountain  country  between  the  46th  and  49th  parallels. 

The  dividing  ridge  from  the  49th  parallel,  approximate  longitude  about  113°  30',  runs  in  a 
general  course  of  south-southeast  about  180  miles,  to  the  passes  mentioned  at  the  head  of  Hell 


168  TOPOGRAPHY    OF    ROUTE    FROM    THE    MISSISSIPPI    TO    THE   COLUMBIA. 

Gate  river,  where  the  first  small  branch  or  spur-ranges  extend  in  a  broken,  irregular  manner, 
towards  the  bend  of  the  Missouri,  where  this  river  comes  down  from  the  south  and  turns  east 
ward,  about  forty  miles  above  the  Great  Falls;  thence,  the  ridge  sweeps  round  to  the  southwest 
to  the  Big  Hole  Mountain  pass,  some  thirty  miles  south  of  the  46th  parallel,  in  longitude  about 
114°,  an  air-line  distance  of  near  130  miles.  From  near  this  point  a  great  branch-range  occurs, 
running  northwest  about  150  miles  or  more  to  the  Coeur  d'Alerie  country,  and  dividing  the  waters 
of  the  Bitter  Root  river  from  those  of  the  Snake,  or  Lewis's  fork.  This  arrangement  of  the  great 
summit  ranges  is  something  like  the  letter  U,  or  the  form  of  the  ancient  lyre,  with  the  open  end 
to  the  northwest,  in  which  direction  the  main  channel  of  Clark's  fork  tends,  until  it  meets  the 
Columbia  coming  from  the  north,  almost  exactly  on  the  49th  parallel.  Including  the  spurs  depend 
ing  from  the  arms  of  the  figure  indicated,  there  is  a  general  breadth  of  over  200  miles  of  mount 
ain  country,  or  about  four  and  a  half  degrees  of  longitude.  Towards  the  centre  of  this  great  fea 
ture,  the  streams  flow  from  all  sides  like  the  radii  of  a  circle — the  Flathead  river,  and  smaller 
streams,  from  the  north  ;  the  Blackfoot  fork  and  Hell  Gate  river  from  the  east ;  the  Bitter  Root 
from  the  south,  and  the  Lou-Lou  fork  and  a  small  river,  leading  to  a  pass  in  the  Coeur  d'Alene 
mountains,  from  the  west ;  the  latter  flowing  in  a  parallel  but  opposite  direction  to  the  main  chan 
nel,  which  receives  them  all.  With  the  exception  of  certain  valleys  and  prairies  to  be  mentioned, 
the  whole  mountain  country  is  thickly  covered  with  pine  forest ;  cotton-wood  and  some  other 
kinds  appearing  occasionally  on  the  islands  and  banks  of  the  rivers,  which  generally  flow  in  deep 
and  narrow  valleys.  The  mountains  are  embellished  by  lakes  of  various  extent;  some  too  small 
to  show  on  a  general  map ;  others,  as  the  Flathead  and  Pend  d'Oreille  lakes,  of  considerable 
size,  are  studded  with  small  islands,  and,  hemmed  in  as  they  are  by  tall  mountains  on  every  side, 
they  present  scenery  of  much  wild  beauty  and  magnificence.  These  two  lakes  have  been 
sketched  with  tolerable  accuracy.  Other  lakes  have  been  reported,  but  have  not  hitherto  been 
visited  by  the  parties  of  the  exploration.  All  the  waters  of  the  mountains  abound  in  fish,  par 
ticularly  salmon  and  salmon-trout,  and  are  frequented  by  varieties  of  water-fowl,  as  swans,  geese, 
ducks,  &c.  The  mountains  also  embrace  numerous  level,  or  comparatively  level,  and  open 
prairies  of  various  extent,  which  afford  fine  pasture  for  the  Indian  cattle,  and  are  most  welcome 
halting  and  recruiting  places  for  the  flagging  energies  of  men  and  horses,  when  exhausted  by 
mountain  travel.  But  the  fine  valleys,  enclosed  by  the  great  ranges,  are  the  most  important  of 
the  topographical  featuies  ;  the  principal  is  that  of  the  St.  Mary's  or  Bitter  Root  river,  tending 
north  by  east  from  the  sources  of  the  river,  near  the  Big  Hole  mountain,  between  seventy  and 
eighty  miles  to  near  the  confluence  of  this  river  with  the  Hell  Gate  and  Blackfoot  forks.  It  bas 
a  level,  open  bottom,  from  four  to  seven  or  eight  miles  wide,  through  which  the  river  flows  in  a 
gently  winding  course,  fringed  with  cotton- wood  and  pine.  On  the  west  side  the  mountains  rise 
sharply  from  the  general  level  to  a  height  of  certainly  not  less  than  two  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  along  the  whole  length  of  the  valley,  heavily  timbered  and  crowned  with  rugged  peaks  of 
naked  rock;  on  the  east  side,  however,  the  slopes  are  gradual  and  very  free  from  timber,  having 
grass  growing  almost  to  the  summits.  The  area  of  this  valley  has  been  variously  estimated. 
Captain  Clark*  says :  "  The  valley  is  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles  in  width,  tolerably  level,  and  par 
tially  covered  with  the  long-leafed  and  the  pitch  pine,  with  some  cotton-wood,  birch,  and  sweet 
willow  on  the  borders  of  the  streams.  Among  the  herbage  are  two  species  of  clover :  one  the 
white  clover,  common  to  the  western  parts  of  the  United  States  ;  the  other  much  smaller,  both  in 
its  leaf  and  blossom,  than  either  the  red  or  white  clover,  and  particularly  relished  by  the  horses." 
"  The  valley  became  more  beautiful  as  we  proceeded,  and  was  diversified  by  a  number  of  small 
open  plains  abounding  with  grass  and  a  variety  of  sweet-scented  plants,  and  watered  by  numer 
ous  streams,  which  rush  from  the  western  mountains  with  considerable  velocity."  This  valley  is 
the  favorite  winter  resort  of  some  of  the  Selish  or  Flathead  tribes,  on  account  of  the  pasture 
which  it  always  affords  their  bands  of  cattle.  Most  of  the  soil  is  said  to  be  capable  of  culti- 

*  Lewis  and  Clark's  Travels. 


TOPOGRAPHY   OF   ROUTE   FROM   THE   MISSISSIPPI   TO   THE  COLUMBIA.  169 

ration,  and  altogether  it  seems  but  to  require  the  advent  of  the  white  man  to  make  it  a  place  of 
considerable  importance.  The  country  also  around  the  Flathead  lake  is  reported  to  be  well 
adapted  for  settlements,  having  extensive  open  prairies  and  numerous  streams.  From  the  con 
fluence  of  the  Bitter  Root  and  Hell  Gate  rivers  to  that  of  the  Bitter  Root  and  Flathead  rivers,  the 
valley  is  of  a  rugged  and  difficult  character.  The  mountains  close  upon  the  river,  forming  an 
intricate  and  formidable  canon  for  some  ten  or  twelve  miles  above  the  junction,  the  course  of  the 
river  being  extremely  sinuous.  The  formation  of  the  country,  however,  affords  the  chances  of 
more  than  one  favorable  detour.  With  reference  to  this  section  of  the  main  river,  a  glance  at 
the  map  will  save  the  necessity  of  detailed  description  here,  and  which,  no  doubt,  will  be  found 
in  the  reports  of  the  engineers.  Thence  the  valley  of  Clark's  fork  is  densely  timbered  along  to 
Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  prairie  spots ;  with  but  little  level  intervale,  the 
mountains  sloping  steeply  towards  the  river,  and  abounding  in  wild,  romantic  scenery,  especially 
where  the  river  widens  considerably,  embracing  numerous  islands,  with  their  growth  of  cotton- 
wood.  For  the  sake  of  the  geography  alone,  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  none  of  the  exploring  par 
ties  visited  the  country  directly  north  of  Clark's  fork  and  Pend  d'Oreille  lake.  The  Hudson's  Bay 
people  report  a  large  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water  called  by  them  Lake  Rootham,  and  surrounded 
by  a  wild  belt  of  excellent  country.  (See  a  subsequent  report  from  Lieutenant  Mullan,  of  his 
exploration  of  Kootenaies  river,  exhibiting  a  highly  diversified  country,  with  the  usual  character 
istics  of  the  whole  mountain  section.) 

The  spurs  of  the  Bitter  Root  and  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains,  depending  from  the  southwest  side 
of  the  great  mountain  feature,  are  but  little  known  :  only  one  party  went  through  from  the  head 
of  the  St.  Mary's  or  Bitter  Root  valley  to  the  western  plains ;  but  this  line  of  reconnaissance  was 
so  far  from  the  general  operations,  that  a  considerable  region  on  that  side  remains  to  be  explored. 
(The  subsequent  explorations  of  this  region  leave  but  little  to  be  said.  The  accounts  of  Lieut. 
Mullan,  Mr.  Tinkham,  and  Lieut.  Macfeely,  with  the  older  explorations  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  con 
cur  in  proclaiming  the  wild  and  inhospitable  character  of  the  whole  western  district.  Lieut. 
Mullan  was  the  most  fortunate,  having  found,  he  believes,  a  practicable  railroad  and  wagon  route 
through  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains. — See  the  several  reports.) 

One  of  the  most  singular  results  of  the  survey  of  the  dividing  ridge  by  the  numerous  passes  is, 
that  the  barometer,  wherever  used,  shows  a  marked  difference  of  elevation  between  the  slopes 
on  either  side,  amounting  to  as  much  as  five  or  six  hundred  feet,  that  being  the  difference  of  the 
observations  taken  at  the  heads  of  the  streams  rising  on  both  sides  at  the  very  base  of  the  ridge. 
Partial  information  led  to  the  belief  that  these  differences  were  all  one  way,  so  that  the  general 
base  on  which  the  mountains  rest  was  supposed  to  have  just  so  much  greater  elevation  than  any 
corresponding  part  of  the  eastern  slope ;  but  this  has  not  proved  to  be  the  case  :  in  Cadotte's  or 
the  Blackfoot  Pass,  the  western  is  the  higher  side ;  in  Clark's  Pass,  the  eastern ;  the  eastern  also 
in  Marias  Pass  ;  varying  in  the  same  way,  it  may  be  supposed,  in  the  other  passes  where  alti 
tudes  were  not  obtained. 

From  the  data  of  such  a  rapid  survey  it  is  not  possible,  nor  will  it  be  considered  necessary, 
to  ascertain  the  precise  arrangement  of  the  smaller  branches  of  the  mountains  on  that  principle 
of  order  which  is  known  to  obtain,  even  in  the  fantastic  outlines  of  mountains  and  rivers.  The 
extensive  explorations  of  Mr.  Tinkham,  civil  engineer,  and  Lieutenant  Mullan,  United  States 
army,  from  the  basis  of  the  odometer  survey,  have  developed  the  leading  features  with  reliable 
accuracy,  as  they  have  been  feebly  indicated  in  this  report.  In  accordance  with  the  general 
view  here  attempted,  it  will  perhaps  be  sufficient  to  observe  that,  although  the  whole  region  is 
generally  pretty  closely  packed  with  mountains,  still  the  available  country  in  the  valleys  and 
prairies  can  be  reckoned — it  is  not  too  much  to  say — by  thousands  of  square  miles,  requiring 
only  roads — the  leading-strings  of  nursing  nations — to  develop  its  capabilities  ;  and  if  the  success 
ful  cultivation  of  mountain  slopes  and  unpromising  soils  in  densely  peopled  countries  be  con- 
22/ 


170  TOPOGRAPHY   OF   ROUTE   FROM   THE   MISSISSIPPI   TO   THE   COLUMBIA. 

sidcrcd,  it  will  warrant  the  conclusion,  that  but  an  insignificant  fraction  of  all  the  mountain 
country  will  prove  unfit  for  some  kind  of  useful  purpose  or  improvement. 

By  way  of  further  illustration,  however,  of  these  mountains  and  the  various  routes  by  which 
they  can  be  traversed,  a  more  detailed  description  will  now  be  submitted  of  the  line  of  the 
odometer  survey. 

Leaving  Medicine  or  Sun  river,  the  trail  passes  through  two  square-looking  elevations,  which 
seem  as  if  they  had  been  upheaved  from  the  general  surface  to  a  height  of  about  eight  hundred 
feet,  having  a  base  each  of  at  least  a  square  mile,  the  table-land  on  the  top  corresponding  with 
the  surrounding  country,  and  the  almost  perpendicular  sides  showing  a  regular  stratification, 
such  as,  no  doubt,  obtains  through  this  section  generally.  On  the  one  to  the  northwest,  the  edge 
of  the  stratum  of  rock  on  the  very  top  resembles  a  crown  in  some  degree,  on  which  account  it 
was  called  "Crown  Butte;"  they  are  both  called  the  "  Big  Knees"  by  the  hunters.  From  these 
curious  features,  which  may  be  considered  the  gate  or  entrance  to  the  mountains  by  this  trail, 
there  follows  a  succession  of  every  description  of  mountain  country.  For  the  first  twenty-five 
miles  the  trail  winds  a  devious  course  to  the  southwest,  through  innumerable,  naked,  and  rocky 
hills  of  moderate  elevation,  with  rugged  outlines ;  and,  crossing  several  small  streams,  leads  to  a 
defile  on  the  south  fork  of  Dearborn  river,  which  is  the  entrance  proper  of  the  Blackfoot  or 
Cadotte's  Pass,  as  this  point  is  accessible  from  other  directions.  On  either  side  of  this  distance  is 
a  considerable  extent  of  country  in  which  the  rocks  crop  out  in  every  conceivable  shape.  In  one 
case  further  progress  is  stopped,  to  all  appearance,  by  an  immense  wall  of  rock,  stretching  from 
hill  to  hill  across  the  ravine  in  which  the  train  is  moving.  The  guide,  however,  soon  finds  a 
narrow  passage  which  admits  one  animal  at  a  time,  at  the  risk  (which  sometimes  becomes  a 
certainty)  of  tumbling  into  a  deep  muddy  water-course  which  has  its  outlet  here.  In  numerous 
instances  the  rocks  project  perpendicularly  to  a  great  height  from  the  surface,  and,  from  constant 
disintegration  by  the  action  of  frost,  the  accumulating  detritus  forms  a  regular  slope  around 
the  base,  which  has  a  very  artificial  appearance.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  of  these  is 
the  "Bird  Tail  Rock,"  a  pretty  and  appropriate  name;  it  is  probably  not  less  than  three  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  high,  of  which  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of  the  upper  half  is  a  picturesque 
cluster  of  basaltic  (?)  columns,  which  attracts  the  notice  of  every  traveller,  and  so  straight  that 
it  baffles  the  most  persevering  efforts  to  ascend  it.  The  writer  and  a  companion  made  the  attempt 
and  arrived  at  a  recess  within  about  one  hundred  feet  of  the  top  :  here  was  found  the  lair  of 
some  wild  animal,  probably  a  grizzly  bear,  judging  from  its  size  and  the  dung  which  lay  about. 
It  wras  perhaps  a  lucky  circumstance  for  the  visitors  that  Bruin  happened  to  be  "not  at  home." 

The  defile  leading  to  the  pass  is  ten  miles  through,  in  a  course  of  southwest  by  south,  and 
is  walled  in  on  either  side  by  lofty  mountains,  whose  steep  sides  are  clothed  almost  to  their  sum 
mits  with  an  impenetrable  forest  of  every  species  of  pine.  From  the  sources  of  Dearborn  river 
a  steep  and  laborious  ascent  of  over  a  thousand  feet  attains  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Rocky 
mountains ;  and  on  the  other  side  a  more  sudden  descent  of  about  six  hundred  feet  leads  into  a 
similar  defile,  where,  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  descent,  rise  the  waters  that  flow  to  the 
Pacific. 

The  view  from  the  top  of  the  dividing  ridge  should  be  often  seen,  to  be  well  described,  as 
every  change  of  weather  doubtless  produces  a  corresponding  change  in  the  aspect  of  the  vast 
scene.  On  the  occasion  of  our  crossing,  although  in  the  valleys  the  weather  was  mild  and 
serene,  on  the  top  there  blew  a  gale  which  well  nigh  took  men  and  mules  off  their  feet,  and 
made  it  difficult  to  take  a  steady  look  in  any  direction.  An  endless  succession  of  towering  peaks 
and  ridges  stretched  away  into  blue  distance  on  every  side,  until  the  farthest  outlines  seemed 
indifferently  to  be  clouds  or  mountains.  The  first  snow  had  fallen  and  melted  in  the  valleys, 
but  still  glistened  in  patches  on  the  highest  summits,  giving  them  a  sharp  relief  amidst  the 
dusky  pine-clad  hills,  that  seemed  to  reflect  their  gloomy  hues  upon  the  sky ;  for  although  the 
sun  was  shining  brightly,  he  seemed  impotent  to  cast  a  cheerful  ray  upon  the  sombre  and  stormy 


TOPOGRAPHY   OP   ROUTE   FROM   THE   MISSISSIPPI   TO   THE   COLUMBIA.  171 

mountain  waste.  At  this  great  elevation  there  is  probably  always  more  or  less  high  wind, 
which,  \vith  the  tremendous  view  on  every  side,  might  well  fill  the  untutored  mind  of  the  roam 
ing  savage  with  the  idea  that  here  must  be  the  abode  of  the  spirits  of  storm  and  destruction. 

The  Blackfoot  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  which  has  one  of  its  sources  here,  flows  southwest 
by  west  for  twenty  miles  through  a  narrow  valley,  which  gradually  opens  to  a  width  of  four 
miles  at  its  lower  end,  where  there  is  considerable  timber  in  the  bottom ;  the  trail,  however,  keeps 
the  open  prairie,  which  is  unobstructed,  except  by  the  small  affluents  of  the  main  stream.  The 
valley  suddenly  closes  to  a  narrow  gorge,  into  which  the  waters,  now  swollen  to  the  dignity  or 
a  river,  rush  with  some  force.  Here  was  a  considerable  beaver  swamp,  and  a  complete  dam 
across  the  river  forcing  the  pent  up  waters  into  a  side  channel ;  this  was  the  only  specimen  of  the 
labors  of  that  industrious  animal  which  was  seen  upon  this  route.  The  trail  follows  the  river 
through  the  gorge,  crossing  it  several  times,  and,  after  twelve  miles  of  the  most  difficult  mountain 
paths — sometimes  through  thick  and  tangled  brush,  sometimes  along  steep  and  dangerous  side- 
hill,  then  through  a  gigantic  net-work  of  fallen  timber,  and  often  through  the  swift  and  deepening 
current — emerges  at  last  upon  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  of  the  mountain  prairies.  Enclosed 
all  round  by  high  mountains,  as  this  and  all  the  other  prairies  are,  they  appear  to  be  of  much 
smaller  extent  than  they  really  are.  Its  greatest  length  nearly  north  and  south  is  about  twenty 
miles,  by  an  average  width  of  seven;  thus  containing  certainly  over  one  hundred  square  miles 
of  good  grazing  land,  with  a  gently  undulating  surface  and  numbers  of  small  ponds,  the  river 
meandering  through  it,  with  timber  and  brush  at  intervals. 

Geology  must  determine  whether,  as  it  occurs  to.  almost  every  one,  such  prairies  have  been 
formerly  the  beds  of  mountain  lakes ;  while  a  reflective  mind  takes  pleasure  in  anticipating 
the  time  when  the  wild  and  exuberant  beauties  of  such  scenes  shall  receive  the  chastening  touch 
of  art,  and  be  animated  by  the  labors  of  a  civilized  and  industrious  community. 

Crossing  this  prairie  a  point  or  two  north  of  west,  the  route,  and  the  river  generally,  continue 
in  the  same  course  for  ten  miles  along  the  base  of  high  and  steep  mountains  on  the  south, 
and  a  considerable  extent  of  prairie  hills  on  the  north  ("Prairie  of  the  Knobs,"  of  Lewis  and 
Clark;)  thence  through  a  small  level  prairie  of  a  few  miles  in  extent,  surrounded,  of  course,  by 
high  mountains  ;  thence,  for  thirty  miles,  a  few  points  south  of  west  in  a  deep,  narrow  valley, 
following  the  river  where  it  can  be  followed,  and  meeting  with  every  variety  and  difficulty 
of  mountain  path — narrow,  level  intervals,  jutting  rocks,  thick-growing  and  obstructive  timber, 
steep  ascents,  and  rocky  and  dangerous  side-hill.  It  would  be  a  tedious  if  not  a  hopeless  task 
to  attempt  to  give  in  detail  the  striking  and  ever-changing  scenery  of  so  great  an  expanse  of 
mountains;  it  is  the  happy  privilege  of  the  painter,  only,  to  present  at  a  glance  the  varied  ele 
ments  of  the  picturesque  and  sublime,  which  would  soon  grow  tiresome  in  description,  even  if 
exact  and  vivid  description  were  possible  to  such  an  extent. 

After  the  last  distance  stated,  a  small  stony  prairie  occurs  where  the  Blackfoot  fork  joins  the 
Hell  Gate  river,  which  then  flows  through  a  narrow  opening  on  the  west  called  Hell  Gate,  and 
debouches  on  the  open  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root,  which,  seven  miles  farther  west,  receives  by 
two  mouths  the  collected  waters  from  the  eastern  ranges.  The  Blackfoot  fork  is  the  "  Cockala- 
hishkit  or  River  of  the  Road  to  Buffalo"  of  Lewis  and  Clark;  but  why  it  should  be  so  called  is 
not  very  clear,  for  the  mountain  Indians  go  to  the  buffalo  plains  by  several  routes,  of  which  the 
Blackfoot  river  is  believed  to  be  the  worst  and  least  used. 

Some  twenty-odd  miles  up  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root,  which  has  already  been  sufficiently 
noticed,  are  the  Flathead  village  of  St.  Mary's  and  the  hospitable  mud-walls  of  Fort  Owen,  oc 
cupied  by  the  gentlemen  of  that  name,  independent  traders  with  the  Indian  tribes,  and  setting  a 
fine  example  of  persevering  industry  in  reclaiming  and  cultivating  the  soil,  raising  crops  and  cattle. 

From  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  near  Hell  Gate  the  main  route  avoids  the  difficult  part  of 
the  Bitter  Root  valley,  turning  on  a  course  directly  north  about  twenty  miles  through  a  pictu 
resque  defile  to  an  extensive  and  fertile  prairie  on  Jocko  river,  where  numbers  of  wild  horses 


172  TOPOGRAPHY   OF    ROUTE   FROM    THE   MISSISSIPPI    TO    THE   COLUMBIA. 

were  seen  ;  thence  northwest  sixteen  or  seventeen  miles,  through  the  most  varied  and  interest 
ing  scenery,  to  where  the  Jocko  empties  into  the  Flalhead  river,  a  stream  as  large  as  the  Bitter 
Root,  and  sometimes  supposed  to  be  Clark's  fork  proper.  This  river  comes  from  the  north  to 
this  point,  and  turns  directly  west,  with  little  variation  for  twenty-five  miles,  where  it  joins  the 
Bitter  Root  at  the  opening  of  a  mountain-bound  prairie  called  Horse  Plain.  In  the  last  half  of 
this  distance  the  mountains  form  a  canon  on  the  river  similar  to  that  mentioned  on  the  Bitter 
Root,  at  the  commencement  of  which  the  route  leaves  the  river  and  tends  northwest  nine  miles 
through  Camash  prairie,  which  is  the  least  attractive-looking  of  such  spots ;  thence  west  again 
about  nine  miles  through  a  rocky  pass,  and,  by  a  steep  descent,  strikes  the  united  waters  at  the 
foot  of  Horse  Plain.  Since  the  conclusion  of  the  surveys  in  the  mountains  it  appears  that  the  two 
avenues  to  the  valley  of  Clark's  fork  by  what  are  called  cations,  on  the  Flathead  and  Bitter  Root 
rivers,  immediately  above  their  junction  at  Horse  Plain,  have  not  received  the  thorough  examina 
tion  to  which  their  importance  entitled  them;  it  will  not,  therefore,  be  out  of  place  to  give  in  a  few 
words  a  somewhat  clearer  view  of  their  character,  as  amongst  the  principal  topographical  fea 
tures  of  the  wrholc  mountain  section. 

They  have  been  mentioned  as  canons;  but  this  expression  must  not  be  taken  in  the  exact  sense 
in  which  it  is  applied  in  purely  volcanic  regions,  where  unbroken  perpendicular  walls  of  rock, 
thousands  of  feet  in  height,  are  opposed  to  each  other  for  many  miles;  but  they  come  the  nearest 
to  this  idea  of  any  similar  features  in  the  mountain-basin  in  which  they  occur,  and  of  which  they 
are  the  natural  outlet.  Vertical  walls  are  understood  to  occur  for  short  distances,  but  in  general 
the  mountains  crowd  upon  the  rivers  in  rugged  broken  masses  alternating  with  steep  slopes  and 
dense  timber,  the  sudden  aud  frequent  windings  of  the  channels  being  the  most  serious  engineer 
ing  difficulty.  How  far  this  character  actually  extends  will  require  further  and  more  delib 
erate  examination  to  determine  which  is  the  more  necessary,  as,  notwithstanding  the  facility  of 
detour  which  is  found  higher  up  in  the  different  branches  of  Clark's  fork,  still,  from  the  configu 
ration  of  the  country,  the  manner  in  which  the  interior  or  spur  ranges  of  the  mountain-basin  close 
upon  these  rivers  above  their  junction,  it  is  easy  to  perceive  that  all  practicable  routes  concentrate 
to  this  particular  point,  with  the  exception  of  the  route  across  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains  re 
ported  by  Lieut.  Mullan,  but  only  as  entitled  to  further  examination.  Thus  the  result  of  the  whole 
examinations  in  this  extensive  basin  is,  that  two  practicable  railroad  passes  are  reported  into  the 
basin  (going  west)  and  two  passes  believed  to  be  practicable  out  of  it.  The  canon  on  the  Bitter 
Root  was  partially  examined  by  Mr.  Lander;  that  on  the  Flathead  was  not  examined  at  all. 
They  are  both  believed  to  be  practicable  at  extreme  cost. 

In  the  next  seventeen  miles,  a  point  or  so  north  of  west,  the  river  now  certainly  called  Clark's 
fork*  winds  through  the  deepest  and  narrowest  part  of  the  valley,  the  mountains  on  the  south 
rising  abruptly  from  the  water,  and  heavily  timbered;  but  on  the  north  they  project,  in  shape 
less,  naked  masses,  to  an  immense  height,  the  frequent  piles  of  fragmentary  rocks  giving  evidence 
of  some  tremendous  disruption ;  the  whole  range  bearing  the  appearance  of  having  been  rent 
asunder  by  some  giant  force,  while  hanging  rock  and  mural  precipice  stand  in  stupendous  contrast 
to  the  bits  of  sward  and  timber  on  the  river-banks  and  islands.  About  midway  through  this 
magnificent  gorge  lie  the  remains  of  the  "Fallen  mountain,"  over  which  the  trail  leads  as  the  only 
chance  to  proceed;  the  rudest  kind  of  horse-track  which  even  an  Indian  would  construct  winds 
deviously  on  either  side  from  top  to  bottom,  from  rock  to  rock,  the  interstices  being  partially  filled 
up  with  the  smallest  fragments  and  detritus,  but  not  so  as  to  insure  freedom  from  danger  without 
the  greatest  circumspection.  It  takes  half  a  day  for  a  train  of  moderate  size  to  cross,  and  this  is 
rarely  done  without  injury  or  loss  of  animals;  indeed,  it  is  still  a  mountain  in  its  fall.  At  the 
end  of  this  grand  aggregate  of  everything  that  is  sublime  and  beautiful  in  scenery,  are  a  few  square 

*  No  effort  was  spared  to  obtain  the  Indian  names ;  but  they  are  so  hopelessly  unpronounceable,  that  not  one  could  be  retained, 
except  that  of  Late  Kalispelin,  or  Pend  d'Oreille ;  and  Kalispelm  is  merely  the  beginning  of  the  Indian  name,  which  extends 
to  ten  or  twelve  guttural  Bounds. 


TOPOGRAPHY   OF   ROUTE   FROM   THE   MISSISSIPPI   TO   THE   COLUMBIA.  173 

miles  of  sward  and  timber  called  Thompson's  prairie,  and  here  we  pause  once  more  to  admire  the 
noble  prospect. 

This  prairie  is  a  succession  of  grassy  terraces  on  the  north  from  the  river  to  the  frowning 
mountains  which  enclose  it,  and  which  on  the  south  rise  steeply  from  the  immediate  bank; 
the  slopes  between  the  different  levels  are  covered  with  timber,  of  which  the  youngest  growth 
extends  irregularly  on  the  open  plateaux.  Standing  on  the  river-bank  and  looking  up  the  valley, 
the  view  embraces  all  the  elements  of  grandeur  and  beauty  that  can  be  imagined  in  mountain 
scenery,  and  in  an  extent  which  an  artist  would  choose  for  a  single  picture.  Here,  as  in  many 
places,  the  mountains  close  in  upon  the  river,  making  a  stupendous  gateway  to  the  open  prai 
rie,  into  which  pours  a  brawling  stream  through  one  of  the  numerous  gorges  from  the  north. 
It  is  late  in  the  morning  when  the  sun  overtops  the  crowded  mountains  and  lights  their  deep  re 
cesses,  gilding  the  autumnal  foliage  of  the  little  islands,  which  derive  additional  beauty  from 
their  clear  reflection  in  the  still  backwater  created  by  the  meeting  of  the  rivers;  the  massive 
outlines  of  the  foreground  are  still  enveloped  in  shade,  while  in  the  mighty  opening,  rocks  and 
trees,  and  pool  and  torrent,  are  glowing  in  a  blaze  of  light.  Such  are  the  scenes  that  reward  the 
way-worn  tourist  throughout  this  great  region,  and  it  is  almost  sorrowful  to  reflect  that  the  very 
purpose  of  our  explorations  will  soon  dispel  the  "enchantment  that  distance  lends,"  when  it  will 
be  no  longer  an  event  in  life  to  have  crossed  the  mountains. 

The  character  of  the  valley  of  Clark's  fork,  from  Thompson's  prairie  to  Pend  d'Oreille  lake, 
has  already  been  perhaps  sufficiently  indicated  in  the  general  review  of  the  mountains.  The 
course  and  distance  arc  about  sixty-five  miles  northwest,  in  the  course  of  which  the  only  new 
features  are  a  few  small  canons,  as  they  may  be  termed,  through  which  the  river  suddenly  dis 
appears,  but  soon  emerging  and  meandering  through  the  dense  timber,  and  making  several  re 
markable  horse-shoe  bends.  Of  the  canons,  that  called  the  Cabinet,  about  thirteen  or  fourteen 
miles  from  the  lake,  is  rather  remarkable,  but  wanting  the  interest  of  novelty  to  those  who  have 
seen  the  wonders  of  the  mountains  from  their  eastern  base.  The  traveller  through  the  valley 
frequently  passes  through  tracts  of  timber  where  the  tall  trunks  stand  denuded  of  their  limbs  and 
foliage,  scarred  and  blackened  by  destructive  fires  which  are  sometimes  started  by  lightning,  but 
as  probably  by  negligence  or  the  nefarious  purposes  of  hostile  Indians.  It  is  one  of  the  grandest 
sights  by  night  to  watch  the  progress  of  the  fearful  element  through  the  close-grown  trees ;  the 
hissing  of  the  flames  enveloping  the  green  limbs;  the  crashing  of  falling  logs,  and  the  clouds  of 
belching  smoke  that  darken  the  star-lit  sky ;  the  lurid  glare  and  fitful  light,  in  which  the  outlines 
of  the  hills  and  woods  are  seen  starting  from  obscurity  into  view,  to  sink  again  into  thicker  dark 
ness:  these,  with  all  the  minor  concomitants  of  such  a  scene,  make  an  impression  on  the  mind 
which  can  never  be  effaced.  Though  these  fires  be  so  terrible  in  appearance,  they  are  rarely 
of  any  great  extent,  as  the  mountain-spurs  and  jutting  rocks,  with  the  winding  of  the  river,  form 
impassable  checks  to  the  most  furious  fire;  they  are  soon  succeeded  by  a  growth  of  young  trees, 
and  are  of  but  slight  importance,  compared  to  the  devastating  effects  of  a  fire  on  the  prairies. 

Among  the  few  disagreeables  of  such  a  mountain  trip  is  one,  it  should  be  hoped  of  rare  occur 
rence,  which  perhaps  may  not  improperly  be  mentioned  here.  While  the  studious  observer  of 
nature  is  feasting  his  imagination  with  the  varied  scenery  of  the  mountains,  he  suddenly  stum 
bles  on  the  scalped  remains  of  some  poor  Indian  warrior,  left  hastily  on  his  last  battle-ground  by 
his  vanquished  tribe,  his  horse  having  shared  his  fate,  lying  near  by ;  horribly  mutilated  by  obscene 
birds  and  beasts,  the  loathsome  objects  are  found,  it  may  be,  festering  in  the  sun  or  stiffened  in 
the  frost — the  most  deplorable  evidence  of  the  unceasing  hostilities  which  seem  to  be  the  most 
important  purpose  of  the  red  man's  life. 

At  the  end  of  the  most  thickly  wooded  section  of  Clark's  fork  is  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  encircled 
by  a  zone  of  romantic  hills  of  diminishing  elevation,  and  dotted  with  a  few  lovely  islands  like 
gems  upon  the  breast  of  beauty.  It  is  of  very  irregular  form,  with  a  varied  shore-line  of  rocky 
bluff  and  sandy  beach,  a  large  section  of  which  exhibits  unmistakable  indications  of  iron.  Going 


TOPOGRAPHY   OF   ROUTE   FROM   THE   MISSISSIPPI   TO   THE   COLUMBIA. 

round  the  northern  shore,  a  course  is  made  across  the  lake  to  its  outlet,  of  west-northwest,  sixteen 
miles  ;  thence  about  eight  miles  southwest  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  crossing,  to  which  the  distance  on 
the  river  is  twelve  miles.  From  the  crossing  to  the  49th  parallel  the  river  is  very  little  known. 
Lieutenant  Arnold  made  a  reconnaissance  of  the  falls  over  which  it  pours  into  the  Columbia;  but 
no  regular  examination  of  the  rest  of  the  river  from  St.  Ignatius  to  its  mouth  has  hitherto  been 
made  ;  it  is  merely  reported  to  be  exceedingly  rough  and  dangerous  by  the  hardy  mountaineers. 

With  respect  to  the  character  of  the  river  channels,  and  their  capability  of  improvement  from 
Fort  Owen  to  Vancouver,  it  will  be  sufficient  here  to  refer  to  the  daring  adventures  of  Dr.  Suckley 
and  his  little  party,  during  their  attempt  to  go  the  whole  length  of  those  important  rivers  in  a 
single  canoe.  When  that  gentleman  arrived  at  Vancouver,  some  time  after  the  main  parties,  his 
lugubrious  and  forlorn  appearance,  in  the  fragments  of  a  dragoon  overcoat  and  the  remains  of 
party-colored  blanket  leggins,  sufficiently  attested  what  patient  endurance  his  gallant  efforts 
must  have  cost  him ;  but  his  own  lively  journal  should  be  allowed  to  tell  the  rest.  It  is  to  be 
regretted  that  the  hardships  he  experienced  should  have  made  it  impossible  to  render  a  more 
perfect  survey  of  the  Columbia ;  but  it  is  hoped  that  his  narrative,  besides  its  general  interest, 
will  redeem  whatever  errors  may  subsequently  be  observed  in  his  sketch  of  that  river  as  it  will 
appear  in  the  maps  of  the  expedition. 

Leaving  the  crossing  southwest  by  south,  twenty-five  miles  across  the  easy  summit  between 
Clark's  fork  and  Spokane  river,  through  open  timber  to  the  beautiful  plain  called  Coeur  d'Alene 
prairie,  where  are  found  large  bands  of  domestic  cattle  in  the  finest  condition,  belonging  to  different 
trading  posts — the  best  evidence  of  the  ease  with  which  such  places  might  be  settled.  It  is 
the  largest  of  the  mountain  prairies  on  the  main  route,  and  probably  the  most  superior  in  any 
point  of  view  ;  but  having  already  indicated  the  general  character  of  all  these  prairies,  it  will 
suffice  to  remark  the  decreasing  elevation  of  the  mountains  in  which  it  is  embosomed,  suggesting 
to  the  traveller  that  he  is  soon  about  to  quit  these  scenes  of  nature's  greatness.  Twenty  miles 
southwest  along  the  edge  of  Coeur  d'Alene  prairie  reaches  Spokane  or  Cceur  d'Alene  river — 
(the  doubts  about  the  application  of  such  names  will  be  examined  and  cleared  up  for  the  final 
map) — sixteen  miles,  two  points  north  of  west  to  the  crossing  of  the  Spokane;  after  which, 
having  made  a  steep  ascent  of  five  or  six  hundred  feet  in  a  few  miles,  two  points  south  of  west, 
through  alternate  wood  and  prairie,  the  mountains,  though  still  in  view,  are  actually  passed,  and 
then  is  beheld  the  first  expanse  of  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia. 

When  the  foregoing  was  written,  the  journal  and  map  of  Lieutenant  Mullan's  comprehensive 
exploration  from  Fort  Owen  to  Fort  Hall  was  received.  The  great  extent  of  mountains  and 
prairies  embraced  in  this  work,  which  was  performed  during  the  winter  months,  would  call  for  a 
more  extended  notice,  if  they  were  not  of  such  exactly  similar  character  to  those  already  mentioned 
here,  with  the  exception  of  the  large  sage  plains  near  Fort  Hall;  indeed,  if  there  be  any  difference 
in  the  likeness  of  the  former  features,  it  might  be  inferred,  from  the  impulsive  and  enthusiastic 
reports  of  that  officer,  that  they  were  rather  superior  than  otherwise  to  anything  of  the  kind 
occurring  in  this  report.  His  journal  of  that  route  abounds  with  interesting  details  which  must 
necessarily  be  excluded  from  a  sketch  simply  intended  to  embrace  the  general  features;  for  if 
everything  were  included,  connected  merely  with  the  subject  of  topography,  a  large  and  readable 
volume  might  be  filled.  From  near  the  point  where  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Bitter  Root  mount 
ains  joins  the  main  Rocky  range,  the  latter  sweeps  around  to  the  southeast,  making  a  reverse 
curve  and  enclosing  a  smaller  mountain  basin,  open  to  the  east,  its  waters  forming  the  Jefferson 
fork  of  the  Missouri,  and  containing  an  area  of  about  ten  thousand  square  miles,  of  which  one 
thousand  may  be  reckoned  for  open  and  favorable  country  hitherto  observed,  embracing  many 
beautiful  and  extensive  prairies,  of  which  the  largest  is  the  Big  Hole  prairie,  (the  Hot  Spring 
valley  of  Lewis  and  Clark,)  sending  numerous  tributaries  to  Wisdom  river,  and  having  an 
immense  extent  of  excellent  pasture. 

In  the  exploration  of  this  basin,  Lieut.  Mullan  entered  from  the  eastern  fork  of  St.  Mary's 


TOPOGRAPHY  OF   ROUTE   FROM   THE   MISSISSIPPI   TO   THE   COLUMBIA.  175 

river,  crossing  the  Big  Hole  mountains  ;  thence  about  five  days'  march,  traversing  the  extreme 
headwaters  of  Wisdom  river  and  Jefferson  fork,  again  crossing  the  main  range  to  Fort  Hall, 
(about  one  hundred  miles  through  the  well  known  sand  and  sage  desert  of  the  Snake  River  valley.) 
Returning,  he  crosses  the  basin  again  by  a  more  easterly  route,  crossing  the  two  streams  mentioned 
about  a  day's  march  above  their  junction,  his  route  leading  almost  wholly  through  prairie  valleys 
of  great  beauty  and  reported  fertility.  Leaving  the  basin  by  a  small  branch  of  Wisdom  river, 
he  crosses  the  Rocky  mountains  for  the  fourth  time,  and  enters  the  greater  mountain  feature 
already  described  by  the  South  fork  of  Hell  Gate  river,  on  which  he  reports  a  more  extensive 
district  of  open  country  than  any  before  observed,  and  a  considerable  hot  spring.  He  calls  this 
broad  valley  the  Deer  Lodge  prairie,  which,  from  its  great  extent  and  reported  advantages,  will 
probably,  when  better  known,  dispute  the  palm  of  superiority  even  with  the  famous  valley  of  St. 
Mary's. 

The  Blackfoot  fork,  St.  Mary's  river,  Lou  Lou  fork,  and  the  western  slope  of  the  Bitter  Root 
mountains,  with  the  Jefferson  fork,  Wisdom  river,  &c.,  were  explored  and  described  by  Lewis  and 
Clark ;  but  those  celebrated  travellers  having  had  no  object  beyond  that  of  exploration  simply, 
and  having  left  no  topographical  data  beyond  general  description,  the  recent  more  systematic 
explorations  may  be  considered  as  essentially  new,  as  they  were  absolutely  necessary  for  any 
practical  purpose. 

The  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  or  Plateau  of  Spokane,  as  it  has  been  called,  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  those  rivers,  on  the  west  by  the  former,  and  on  the  south  and  east  by  the  Blue  and 
Rocky  mountains ;  it  is  about  two  hundred  by  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  its  greatest  length 
and  breadth,  and  presents  such  a  curious  variety  of  surface,  that  it  has  been  alternately  called 
a  barren  sage  plain,  rocky  plateau,  sterile  waste,  and  sandy  desert.  A  great  deal  might  be  said 
to  show  that  it  is  either  or  all  of  these,  but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  possesses  many  points 
of  interest  which  time  only  will  develop.  It  contains  numerous  lakes  and  rivers,  the  latter 
flowing  almost  invariably  in  canons  of  proportionate  dimensions,  from  the  great  fissure  which 
holds  the  Columbia  to  the  little  cracks  in  the  surface  peculiar  to  every  streamlet.  Large  tracts 
contain  little  else  than  huge  masses  of  columnar  basalt,  projecting  to  different  heights,  from  ten 
to  one  hundred  feet;  extensive  swales  occur,  covered  with  bunch-grass  ;  and  sometimes  we  pass 
through  many  miles  of  short  rounded  ridges  and  hillocks,  arranged,  as  it  were,  in  rows,  and  laid 
towards  the  same  cardinal  point;  while  near  Wallah-Wallah  are  large  fields  of  artemisia  in  deep 
sandy  soil,  the  most  unfavorable  part  of  the  whole  route.  As  might  be  supposed,  the  best  sections 
of  the  Great  Plain  are  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  mountains,  where  a  deeper  soil 
accumulates  from  the  wash  of  the  hills  ;  but  the  extreme  western  portion,  near  the  Columbia, 
presents  little  else  than  a  miserable  desert  of  drifting  sand,  alternating  with  sage  plains  and 
naked  volcanic  rocks.  The  examination  of  the  Grand  Coulee  by  Lieutenant  Arnold  shows 
another  instance  of  the  little  reliance  to  be  placed  in  unauthorized  reports ;  instead  of  connecting 
across  the  northwestern  bend  of  the  Columbia  some  seventy  miles,  and  being,  as  might  be 
supposed,  the  old  bed  of  that  river,  it  extends  but  twenty-five  miles,  with  the  form  of  an 
immense  canon,  and  then  is  soon  lost  in  the  general  level  of  the  plateau. 

Not  unfrequently  on  the  rivers  and  streams  the  canon  walls  disappear  in  rounded  slopes,  which 
open  out  into  valleys  and  flats  where  moderate  grazing  is  found,  and  sufficient  of  brush-wood  and 
dwarf  cedar,  poplar,  &c.,  for  fire- wood,  while  in  very  extensive  sections  the  bunch-grass  affords 
pasturage  that  might  be  called  abundant.  The  soil,  which  is  mostly  decomposed  trap-rock,  of 
various  depths,  but  generally  thin,  cannot  be  denied  to  possess  properties  of  productiveness ; 
and  on  the  swales  it  is  vegetable  mould,  which  only  requires  cultivation  to  prove  its  capability, 
while  the  rivers  and  lakes  abound  in  fish,  but  the  hungry  wolf  is  the  only  tenant  of  the  plain. 

The  region,  altogether,  however,  is  not  very  attractive  in  any  respect,  and  can  only  be  looked 
upon  as  a  new  field  of  enterprise  when  the  more  favored  wilderness  shall  have  been  subdued  to 
the  ever-increasing  requirements  of  civilization. 


176  TOPOGRAPHY   OF   ROUTE   FROM    THE   MISSISSIPPI   TO   THE   COLUMBIA. 

From  the  Spokane  to  where  the  Pelusc  joins  the  Snake  river  in  a  direct  course  across  the 
plain  is  about  ninety  miles  southwest,  during  which  the  route  crosses  numerous  small  streams, 
and  through  such  bleak  country  as  has  been  shortly  noticed  ;  thence  about  fifty  miles  southwest 
to  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  some  ten  miles  below  the  confluence  of  the  Great  forks  of  the  Columbia, 
and  another  important  stage  of  our  journey  has  been  accomplished.  It  should  be  stated  here, 
that  the  longest  march  without  water  on  the  nearest  route  to  Wallah-Wallah  was  twenty-seven 
miles ;  but  by  taking  a  longer  route,  water  can  be  had  by  much  shorter  marches. 

The  Columbia  river  from  Wallah-Wallah  down,  its  canons,  rapids,  the  Dalles,  Cascades,  &c., 
are  too  well  known  to  require  much  notice  here;  they  have  long  since  received  the  polished  touch 
of  one  of  the  most  eminent  and  favorite  of  living  writers,  and,  in  connexion  with  the  northern 
Cascade  mountains,  have  just  been  thoroughly  handled  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  western  division. 
It  will  be  sufficient  to  observe  that  the  prairies  south  of  the  Columbia,  over  which  the  odometer 
survey  was  carried,  are  extremely  hilly  and  sandy,  with  some  artemisin,  which,  however,  is  not 
seen  beyond  the  Umatilla  ;  an  occasional  house  being  a  cheering  sign  that  our  labors  were 
drawing  to  a  close.  From  this  route  the  majestic  outlines  of  the  principal  peaks  of  the  Cascade 
range,  north  and  south,  are  almost  constantly  in  view,  from  incredible  distances,  glistening 
through  the  pure  air  in  their  mantles  of  eternal  snow.  Near  the  Cascades,  as  the  principal 
rapids  of  the  Columbia  are  called,  the  odometer  gave  out,  as  well  as  some  of  the  animals,  and 
the  winter  was  too  far  advanced  to  renew  the  attempt  to  carry  the  survey  to  Puget  sound. 
However,  it  is  satisfactory  to  know  that  the  survey,  as  it  was  first  plotted,  independent  of  cor 
rection  by  astronomical  points,  but  connected  by  those  of  Captain  Wilkes  and  Professor  Nicollet, 
was  only  ten  miles  in  error  ;  being  in  excess,  in  a  line  of  nearly  two  thousand  miles,  an  error  of 
only  one  in  two  hundred,  while  in  latitude  there  was  no  error  whatever.* 

Going  down  the  Columbia,  the  reason  of  the  Cascade  mountains  being  so  named  becomes 
apparent  from  the  steep  sides  of  that  tremendous  chasm  through  which  the  gathered  waters  seek 
the  ocean.  Foremost  among  the  wonders  that  attract  the  admiring  gaze  of  travellers  are  the 
numerous  and  beautiful  little  falls  which  pour  from  every  crevice,  at  every  height,  and  frequently 
from  the  very  mountain  top.  The  grand  proportions  of  the  mountains  and  the  noble  river  deceive 
the  eye  with  respect  to  distance,  and  surprise  ensues  that  there  should  be  heard  no  "  sound  of  fall 
ing  waters."  As  many  as  twelve  of  these  fairy  cascades  can  be  counted  within  view  in  a  single 
reach  of  the  river.  Some,  descending  from  hanging  rocks,  are  dissolved  in  spray  less  than 
halfway  down  the  fall;  others  steal  down  the  crooked  crannies  of  the  mountain,  never  actually 
leaving  their  steep  channels,  in  which  they  glisten  like  a  snow-wreath  ;  and  not  a  few  seem  as 
though  they  were  frozen  on  the  mountain  side,  so  regular  and  imperceptible  is  the  motion  of  the 
water,  and  a  telescope  is  necessary  to  prove  that  they  really  are  what  they  barely  seem  to  be. 
Most  of  them  are  but  tiny  threads  of  foam;  but  on  turning  a  projecting  and  sheltering  cliff,  there 
is  found  another  little  beauty  in  a  nook  adorned  by  groups  of  evergreens,  where  the  water  pours 
over  a  broader  ledge,  and  spreads  into  a  veil  such  as  Undine  might  have  worn  :  gently  waving 
with  the  undulations  of  the  air,  every  drop  yet  appears  so  distinctly  to  the  eye  that  we  pause, 
though  vainly,  to  hear  it  plashing  on  the  rocks  beneath. 

From  the  Cascades  down  the  Columbia  in  a  steamer,  and  up  the  Cowlitz,  it  may  be,  in  the 
mail  canoe;  finding  little  towns  on  the  banks,  and  sleeping  in  houses  every  night,  so  that  we 
believe  we  are  getting  into  settlements  once  more.  It  is  scarely  necessary  to  make  more  than  a 
few  closing  remarks  on  a  Territory  where  already  nearly  all  the  appliances  of  industry  are 
actively  at  work  amid  a  quickly-growing  population,  and  whose  productions  begin  to  vie  with 
those  of  any  country  in  the  temperate  zone.  It  has  no  doubt  been  told  in  many  different  ways 
that  the  country  west  of  the  Cascade  range  and  north  of  the  Columbia,  particularly  around  Puget 
sound,  abounds  in  all  the  resources  that  contribute  to  the  growth  of  States ;  that  its  dense  pine 

*  Subsequently,  by  comparison  with  Captain  Wilkes's  revised  longitude  of  Wallah- Wallah,  the  odometer  survey  was  found  to  be 
4'  in  excess,  or  about  three  statute  miles. 


MEDICAL   REPORT   OF   EASTERN   DIVISION.  177 

forest,  which  is  its  most  prevailing  feature,  is  interspersed  with  valleys  and  prairies,  many  of 
them  teeming  with  life  and  energy,  and  that  it  cannot  be  long  before  their  hardy  citizens  shall 
assume  the  proud  position  of  a  sovereign  Stale. 

It  remains,  therefore,  but  to  take  a  farewell  glance  at  those  majestic  mountains,  some  of  which 
may  even  now  be  vomiting  their  hoarded  fires.*  We  pause  at  every  opening  in  the  woods  to 
admire  the  brilliant  tints  of  slumbering  volcanoes,  or  to  watch  a  passing  cloud  empurpled  by 
the  sun,  far  below  their  lofty  summits,  and  turn  away  reluctantly  to  complete  our  journey  with 
the  day.  Towards  the  termination  of  the  ride  from  the  Cowlitz  to  Olympia  the  opening  timber 
gives  glimpses  of  distant  waters,  overtopped  by  the  outlines  of  high  mountains  with  whitened 
peaks.  Emerging  from  the  forest-depths,  the  mountain  ranges  of  the  Cape  Flattery  peninsula 
grow  clearly  into  view  ;  their  snowy  peaks  and  summits  are  seen  gleaming  in  the  mellowed 
splendor  of  the  evening  sunlight,  and  reflecting  a  radiant  glow  upon  the  placid  bosom  of  the 
sound;  putting  an  appropriate  period  to  a  long  and  eventful  journey,  and  to  this  sketch. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

JOHN  LAMBERT. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Exploration. 


2.  PRELIMINARY  NOTICE   OF   THE  GEOLOGY  OF  THE  COUNTRY  EXPLORED  BY  DR.  JOHN  EVANS, 

GEOLOGIST. 

[This  paper,  sent  from  Washington  Territory,  where  Dr.  Evans  was  still  employed  in  the  field  when  the  report  of  Governor 
Stevens  was  submitted,  was  lost  on  the  route.] 


3.  MEDICAL  REPORTS  OF  DR.  GEORGE  SUCKLEY,  ASSISTANT  SURGEON  u.  s.  A.,  AND  DR.  j.  G. 

COOPER,    SURGEON    OF    THE    EXPLORATION. 
DR.  SUCKLE Y'S  MEDICAL  REPORT  FOR  THE  EASTERN  DIVISION. 

FORT  STEILACOOM,  PUGET  SOUND,  W.  T., 

January  4,  1854. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  brief  report  concerning  the  health  of  the  parties 
under  your  own  immediate  charge,  operating  between  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  river 
and  Puget  sound,  together  with  a  few  remarks  concerning  the  character  of  the  country  passed 
through,  and  the  prevailing  diseases  in  the  various  Indian  tribes  seen  on  the  route. 

The  whole  line  of  march  can  be  readily  divided  into  five  distinct  sections,  varying  considerably 
from  each  other  in  soil,  climate,  and  productions. 

1.  The  prairie  and  coteau  country  between  Sauk  rapids  and  Fort  Union,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone  river.  The  eastern  two-thirds  of  this  section  was  exceedingly  level,  abounding  in 
lakes,  ponds,  and  pools.  The  weather  was  generally  clear  and  pleasant,  the  heat  of  a  July  sun 
being  generally  moderated  by  refreshing  breezes.  Dews  at  night  very  heavy.  Vegetation  rank. 

The  western  third  of  this  was  principally  through  a  coteau  country,  nearly  destitute  of  timber. 
Lakes  numerous,  but  many  of  them  stagnant  and  saline.  Dews  very  light.  Vegetation  more 
scanty. 

The  main  party  of  sixty-seven  persons,  and  the  detachment  of  nineteen  under  Lieutenant 
Grover,  were  occupied  in  passing  through  this  region  from  June  10th  to  August  6th,  a  period  of 
about  eight  weeks.  The  health  of  all  persons  was  excellent ;  not  a  case  of  malarious  disease 
appeared;  and  the  only  cases  of  sickness  which  came  under  my  notice  were  slight  attacks  of 
looseness  of  the  bowels,  produced  by  eating  too  heartily  of  buffalo  meat,  in  addition  to  the  use  of 

*  A  late  mail  announced  that  Mount  Rainier  was  emitting  smoke, 

23/ 


178  MEDICAL   REPORT    OP   EASTERN    DIVISION. 

saline  water.  These  slight  ailments  yielded  very  readily  to  treatment,  and  but  one  man  was 
prevented  thereby  from  duty,  and  confined  to  bed.  His  illness  was  promoted  and  aggravated 
by  his  own  gross  imprudence.  With  proper  choice  of  camping  grounds  we  could  nearly  always 
obtain  good  water,  and  plenty  of  it. 

2.  The  route  passed  over  between  Fort  Union  and  Fort  Benton,  by  way  of  the  valleys  of  the 
Missouri,  Milk,  Marias,  and  Teton  rivers. 

The  command  at  this  time  numbered  over  one  hundred  persons,  and  the  time  occupied  on  the 
march  was  between  August  Sth  and  September  8lh.  The  length  of  this  part  of  the  march  was 
three  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles. 

Three  men  came  on  the  sick  report :  St.  Louis,  (teamster,)  epileptic  convulsions;  Osborne, 
(cook,)  partial  paralysis ;  Sergeant  Collins,  (corps  sappers  and  miners,)  dysentery. 

The  two  first  mentioned  would  probably  have  been  attacked  with  the  above  complaints 
whether  they  had  been  employed  by  the  expedition  or  not.  St.  Louis  had  been  subject  to  fits 
for  several  years.  It  was  thought  best  to  send  him  in  a  boat  with  a  party  which  left  Fort  Benton 
for  St.  Louis,  Missouri,  under  charge  of  Lieutenant  Saxton.  Osborne  continued  with  the  mam 
party  until  it  reached  St.  Mary's  village.  He  then  had  another  attack  of  the  paralysis,  and 
was  left  with  the  men  under  Lieutenant  Mullan's  charge.  Collins's  attack  seemed  to  be  owing  to 
indigestion,  and  consequent  diarrhoea,  kept  up  arid  aggravated  by  riding  on  horseback.  He  was 
too  unwell  to  proceed  farther  with  the  train,  and  was  consequently  sent  down  the  river  with 
Lieutenant  Saxton.  The  health  of  the  rest  of  the  party  was  exceedingly  good. 

3 — Contains  that  portion  of  our  route  between  Fort  Benton  and  Fort  Colville,  passing  over  and 
through  the  Rocky,  Bitter  Root,  and  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains. 

This  country  is  \vell  wooded,  and  is  abundantly  supplied  with  swift  running  cold  spring  brooks. 
No  cases  of  sickness  occurred  in  the  main  command.  At  St.  Mary's  I  was  detailed  on  special 
service,  which  necessarily  involved  my  absence  from  the  main  party  until  we  reached  Fort  Van 
couver. 

Section  4,  embraces  our  route  through  a  country  almost  destitute  of  timber  between  Fort 
Colville  and  the  Dalles;  the  health  of  the  command  still  continued  excellent. 

Section  5.  March  between  the  Dalles  and  Puget  sound,  via  Fort  Vancouver. 

This  district  is  well  wooded,  and  abundantly  supplied  with  good  \vater.  Three  cases  came 
on  the  sick  report  as  follows :  The  first  was  that  of  a  mule-packer,  who  had  contracted  syphilis. 
The  second  was  a  case  of  severe  acute  articular  rheumatism  in  the  person  of  a  dragoon  private. 
This  was  produced  by  his  lying  out  in  the  wet  all  night,  during  a  fit  of  intoxication.  The  rest 
of  the  men  were  all  healthy,  except  one  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  scientific  corps,  who  became 
slightly  indisposed  in  consequence  of  the  sudden  change  from  being  in  the  open  air,  to  in-door 
confinement  at  Vancouver. 

On  reviewing  the  whole  route,  the  unequalled  and  unparalleled  good  health  of  the  command 
during  a  march  of  over  eighteen  hundred  miles  appears  remarkable  ;  especially  when  we  consider 
the  hardships  and  exposures  necessarily  incident  to  such  a  trip.  Not  a  case  of  ague  or  fever 
occurred.  Such  a  state  of  health  could  only  be  accounted  for  by  the  great  salubrity  of  the  countries 
passed  through,  and  their  freedom  from  malarious  or  other  endemic  disease. 

All  the  Indian  tribes  which  came  under  my  observation  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains  seemed 
free  from  epidemic  disease,  at  least  temporarily  free.  Their  principal  complaints  are  chronic 
inflammations  of  the  eye  and  phthisis  pulmonalis.  Lues  venerea  and  gonorrhoea  prevail,  to  a 
certain  extent,  among  the  Assiniboins  and  Gros  Ventres ;  but  the  Blackfeet  proper,  Piegans, 
and  Blood  Indians,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  are  nearly  exempt  from  these  diseases. 

The  Indians  seen  between  the  Rocky  mountains  and  Fort  Colville  belong  to  the  Flathead 
and  Pend  d'Oreille  or  Kalispelm  tribes.  Owing  to  the  good  principles  inculcated  by  the  mission 
aries  they  are  very  virtuous  in  their  habits  ;  consequently  syphilis  is  almost  unknown  among 
them.  Phthisis  pulmonalis  is  very  common  among  them,  especially  among  the  last  mentioned  tribe. 


MEDICAL   REPORT   OF   WESTERN   DIVISION.  179 

They  are  very  poor,  and  frequently  suffer  from  scanty  innutritious  diet.  As  most  of  the  members 
of  both  of  these  tribes  have  been  vaccinated  by  the  missionaries,  smallpox  is  of  rare  occurrence. 
The  Indian  tribes  on  the  Columbia  river,  below  Fort  Colville,  are  rapidly  becoming  depopu 
lated  by  the  smallpox,  intemperance,  and  syphilis.  During  the  past  summer  the  smallpox  has 
prevailed  in  every  direction,  carrying  off  the  natives  by  hundreds.  The  Lakemans  and  Wyam- 
pums,  during  this  short  period,  buried  more  than  one-half  of  their  numbers. 

In  conclusion,  I  cannot  too  strongly  urge  the  importance  of  some  well-directed  measures  being 
instituted  for  the  thorough  and  systematic  vaccination  of  all  the  native  tribes  west  of  the 
Rocky  mountains.  Without  requiring  any  additional  argumentative  appeal,  common  humanity 
and  good  sense  plainly  indicate  the  course  to  be  pursued. 

I  remain,  sir,  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

GEORGE   SUCKLEY,  M.  D., 
A.  A.  Surgeon  to  the  Eastern  Division  of  Exploration. 
Governor  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 


DR.  COOPER'S  MEDICAL  REPORT. 

FORT  VANCOUVER,  December  26,  1853. 

SIR:  In  this  report  I  shall  consider,  in  detail,  all  the  facts  noticed  in  regard  to  the  health  ot 
the  party — the  hygiene  of  the  country,  and  the  diseases  prevailing  among  the  Indians,  with 
their  remedies.  The  general  health  of  the  party  was  very  good  throughout  the  journey. 
No  epidemics  or  endemic  diseases  prevailed ;  boils  being  the  only  disease  that  occurred  very 
generally,  probably  in  consequence  of  the  warm  weather  and  meat  diet.  Two  men  were 
discharged  at  the  Yakima  with  diseases  contracted  before  starting,  and  which  the  nature  of  their 
duties  as  packers,  and  daily  riding,  prevented  a  recovery  from  during  a  march.  Disorders  of  the 
digestive  organs  were  common,  but  readily  yielded  to  treatment.  Although  almost  every  person 
in  the  command  applied  to  me  at  different  times  for  medicine  or  advice,  the  above  were  the 
only  cases  especially  worthy  of  notice.  Many  of  the  medicines  furnished  to  the  party  were  found 
unnecessary,  while  others  were  very  useful;  and  a  few  were  not  supplied  which  would  often 
have  been  serviceable.  Considerable  loss  occurred  from  breakage  in  consequence  of  the  diffi 
culty  of  conveying  medicines  in  panniers  on  the  backs  of  mules. 

The  country  traversed  from  June  to  November  appears  to  be  very  healthy  in  that  season. 
The  great  dryness  of  the  climate,  and  the  perfect  drainage  of  the  country,  prevent  the  prevalence 
of  malarious  disease  in  summer.  No  instance  of  endemic  diseases  of  any  other  kind  was  met 
with  not  attributable  to  the  mode  of  life  and  habits  of  the  inhabitants.  Of  the  diseases  prevalent 
among  the  Indians,  the  smallpox  was  the  most  common  and  fatal  in  its  effects.  Whole  tribes 
have  been  exterminated  by  it  on  the  Columbia  river,  and  we  met  with  it  among  all  those  inhabit 
ing  the  west  and  north  sides  of  its  upper  branches.  Nearly  all  the  survivors  were  marked 
with  it,  and  it  was  decreasing  at  the  time  of  our  visit.  Vaccination  had  been  tried  by  some 
white  residents  on  the  Okinakane  river,  but  without  effect.  East  of  the  Columbia,  however,  it  had 
not  yet  appeared,  and  the  principal  tribes  there  had  been  vaccinated  by  the  Catholic  priests. 
No  indubitable  cases  of  the  syphilis  were  seen  east  of  the  mountains,  though  it  has  prevailed 
very  generally  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountains.  I  saw  cases  of  intermittent  fever  on  the  west 
side  of  the  mountains,  but  none  on  the  east.  The  Indians  there,  however,  say  that  it  formerly 
prevailed  extensively,  but  suppose  it  was  brought  from  lower  down  the  river.  I  met  with  no 
disease  of  the  digestive  organs  among  them,  and  their  unvaried  diet  of  dry  fish  and  berries 
does  not  seem  to  affect  them.  Chronic  inflammation  of  the  external  eye,  with  opacity  of  the 
cornea,  is  very  common,  apparently  caused  by  the  irritation  of  smoke  in  their  badly-ventilated 
huts.  Blindness  following  smallpox  was  met  with  but  rarely. 

I  saw  an  instance  of  curvature  of  spine  in  a  boy  of  about  fifteen  years,  then  past  remedy. 
Deformity  of  the  hip-joints  was  not  rare,  probably  in  consequence  of  morbus  coxarius.  Frac- 


ISO  CASCADES   AND   LINE   OF  SNOQUALME   PASS. 

turcs  and  dislocations  of  the  limbs  appear  to  be  rare.  The  Indians  are  not  much  exposed  to 
accidents  of  that  kind,  on  account  of  tfteir  indolent. habits  and  little  taste  for  adventure.  Atrophy 
of  the  muscles  constituting  the  calf  of  the  leg  is  almost  a  disease  among  them,  in  consequence  of 
their  infrequent  use  in  walking;  all  journeys  being  performed  on  horseback  or  in  canoes,  even 
for  half  a  mile  distance.  Consumption  is  common  among  them,  in  consequence  of  poor  clothing 
and  shelter,  combined  with  the  weakness  of  constitution,  generally  caused  by  a  scanty  and 
innutritious  quality  of  food.  Decay  of  the  teeth  seems  to  be  rare,  but  they  wear  down  irom  the 
surface,  as  in  horses,  &c.,  forming  smooth  flat  tops. 

I  could  learn  of  very  few  remedies  among  the  Indian  tribes;  they  are  unwilling  to  tell  of  such 
as  they  have,  which  must  be  very  few  and  of  little  value,  as  they  place  great  confidence  in  the 
treatment  and  medicine  of  the  whites.  Many  tribes  on  the  upper  Columbia  and  its  branches 
use  the  hot  vapor  bath,  followed  by  a  plunge  into  cold  water.  This  severe  hydropathic  practice 
does  not  seem  to  benefit  them,  and  is  fast  giving  way  to  other  remedies.  The  huts  used  for  its 
administration  have  been  often  described,  and  are  used  also  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  Like 
all  savage  nations,  charms  and  incantations  are  much  relied  on  by  them.  An  umbelliferous 
plant  (Pencedanum)  is  used  by  them  as  an  emetic,  as  well  as  the  root  of  the  Sicyos  Oregonus, 
or  wild  melon,  which  has  properties  similar  to  those  of  colocyntli. 

There  are,  undoubtedly,  many  plants  indigenous  to  the  country,  of  great  medicinal  value. 
Some  of  these  are  well  known,  but  a  long  time  will  be  required  to  ascertain  fully  the  uses  of  the 
greater  part  of  them.  Some  are  noticed  in  the  accompanying  list  of  plants  observed. 

Respectfully,  &c., 

J.  G.  COOPER,  M.  D. 

Captain  G.  B.  MCCLELLAN, 

Corps  of  Engineers,  Commanding  Expedition. 


B. 
SURVEY  OF  THE  CASCADES. 

4.  RAILROAD  PRACTICABILITY  OF  THE  CASCADES  AND  OF  THE  LINE  OF  THE  SNOQUALME  PASS, 
BY  CAPTAIN  GEO.  B.  MCCLELLAN,  CORPS  OF  ENGINEERS,  U.  S.  A.,  IN  COMMAND  OF  THE  WEST 
ERN  DIVISION. 

[The  survey  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass  was  carried  by  Captain  McClellan  up  the  valley  of  the  Yakima  to  three  miles  west  of  the 
dividing  ridge.] 

OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  February  8,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report  upon  the  practicability  of  a  railroad 
across  the  Cascade  mountains. 

The  result  of  the  explorations  of  the  last  summer  has  been  to  ascertain  that,  between  the  par 
allels  of  45°  30'  and  49°  north  latitude,  there  are  but  two  passes  through  the  range  practicable 
for  a  railroad :  that  of  the  Columbia  river,  and  that  in  which  the  north  and  main  fork  of  the 
Yakima  heads. 

I  will  first  describe  the  latter — heretofore  erroneously  called  the  Snoqualme,  for  the  reason  that 
the  river  of  that  name,  the  south  fork  of  the  Sinahomish,  was  incorrectly  supposed  to  head  in  it. 

The  approach  to  this  pass  must  be  by  the  valley  of  the  Yakima,  crossing  the  Columbia  any 
where  within  fifteen  miles  above  the  junction  of  these  two  rivers. 

The  Columbia  here  runs  through  a  level  and  extensive  sage  plain,  of  a  sandy  soil;  the 
approaches  are  perfectly  good ;  the  river  about  four  hundred  yards  in  width. 

No  material  for  bridging  exists  immediately  at  hand. 

Excellent  yellow  pine  grows  abundantly  on  the  Yakima,  about  one  hundred  miles  from  its 
mouth,  and  can  be  floated  down  at  high  water  with  but  little  difficulty. 


CASCADES   AND   LINE   OF   SNOQTJALME   PASS.  181 

Good  granite  is  found  on  the  Columbia,  about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Yakima:  it  may  occur  at  a  less  distant  point. 

From  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia  to  the  commencement  of  the  pine  timber  is  a  distance  of 
ninety-six  miles;  the  general  character  of  the  valley  to  this  point  is  wide,  open,  and  terraced; 
the  ground  of  sand,  gravel,  or  loose  stones — but  little  clay,  or  vegetable  mould;  curves  easy; 
long  stretches  of  straight  road,  perfectly  practicable.  In  this  distance  there  are  five  points  where 
the  hills  come  close  to  the  river ;  making,  at  most,  ten  miles  of  side-cutting  necessary.  This  cutting 
is  generally  in  earth,  loose  stone,  or  trap-rock,  easily  broken  into  blocks-  In  addition  to  these 
five  points,  the  last  eight  miles  of  the  ninety-six  will  be  principally  side-cutting  in  earth,  gravel 
and  sand — the  work  light,  and  no  very  high  side-slopes.  In  the  first  eighty  miles  from  the 
Columbia  the  grade  will  be  twelve  and  a  half  feet  to  the  mile;  in  the  last  sixteen  miles  it  will 
be  eight  and  a  half  feet  to  the  mile.  By  keeping  thus  far  the  north  bank  of  the  Yakima,  the  only 
bridges  of  any  consequence  required  will  be  two,  over  streams  each  about  seventy-five  feet  in 
width. 

At  some  place  in  this  vicinity  it  would  be  advisable  to  cross  to  the  south  bank  of  the  Yakima, 
which  is  here  about  forty  yards  wide;  good  crossing  easily  found;  plenty  of  timber  on  the  spot; 
stone  for  masonry  within  twenty- five  miles  by  water.  The  road  now  keeps  to  the  valley  twenty- 
one  miles  farther  on — four  miles  beyond  Ksitkas;  passing  through  an  open  pine  woods;  soil  light, 
sometimes  gravelly;  about  two  miles  side-cutting — grade  eight  feet  to  the  mile.  From  the  point 
now  reached,  there  are  two  methods  of  passing  the  dividing  ridge:  1st.  By  means  of  a  tunnel 
four  thousand  yards  in  length,  from  the  level  of  Lake  Willailootzas,  2,993  feet  above  Vancouver; 
2d.  By  a  tunnel  11,840  yards  long,  from  the  level  of  Lake  Kitchelus,  2,388  feet  above  Van 
couver. 

If  the  short  tunnel  be  used,  the  road  must,  at  this  point,  leave  the  valley,  take  a  side  location 
on  the  northern  slope  of  the  mountains  bordering  the  valley  on  the  south,  and  ascend  eight  hun 
dred  and  ninety-five  feet  in  eighteen  and  a  half  miles,  giving  a  grade  of  48.4  feet  per  mile, 
in  fifty  per  cent.  rock.  The  plateau  of  Willailootzas,  one  mile  long,  will  be  entered  by  a  curve, 
with  a  radius  of  about  two  thousand  feet,  and  the  road  pass  along  the  north  bank  of  the  lake,  with 
side  location,  in  eighty  per  cent,  trap-rock,  easily  worked.  This  lake  should  be  partially  drained; 
its  shores  are  steep,  and  of  broken  stone.  There  will  be  some  little  difficulty  in  preparing  a 
proper  depot  for  the  workmen,  tools,  &c.,  at  the  entrance  of  the  tunnel.  The  tunnel,  about  four 
thousand  yards  long,  will  pass  through  solid  rock,  (silicious  conglomerate)  and  will  debouche  on 
the  western  slope  at  an  elevation  of  about  three  thousand  feet  above  the  sound  at  Seattle.  The 
road  must  now  have  a  side  location  on  the  mountain  spur  bordering  the  valley  of  the  Nook-noo, 
in  about  seventy  per  cent,  rock,  generally  conglomerate;  follow  this  valley  twenty-nine  and  a  half 
miles,  then  take  the  summit  and  northern  slope  of  the  low  ridge  separating  Lake  Mowee  from  the 
valley  of  the  Snoqualme,  and  from  that  taking  a  spur  running  from  the  Nook-noo  falls  to  those  of 
the  Snoqualme,  reach  the  latter  falls  at  a  distance  of  forty-five  miles  from  the  tunnel — all  in  side- 
cutting,  with  rocks  as  above. 

The  grade  will  be  59.8  feet  per  mile. 

With  reference  to  this  stretch  of  forty-five  miles,  and  that  of  eighteen  and  a  half  miles  on  the 
eastern  slope,  leading  to  the  tunnel,  it  is  to  be  observed  that  the  grades  given  above  are  on  the 
supposition  that  a  continuous  grade  can  be  obtained ;  but  it  must  be  expected  that  the  grade 
will  necessarily  be  broken,  and  be  higher  than  the  estimate  in  many  places. 

From  the  Snoqualme  Falls  to  Seattle  is  a  distance  of  about  30  miles,  of  which  the  first  ten 
must  have  a  grade  of  twenty  feet  per  mile  at  most ;  and  the  remaining  twenty  pass  over  a  quite 
level  country. 

If,  instead  of  a  tunnel  from  the  level  of  Lake  Willailootzas,  we  consider  a  tunnel  from  the  level 
of  Lake  Kitchelus,  the  case  will  be  as  follows: 

Commencing  at  the  point  eighteen  and  a  half  miles  east  of  Willailootzas,  there  will  be  eighteen 


182  CASCADES   AND   LINE   OP   SNOQUALME   PASS. 

and  a  half  miles,  with  a  grade  of  15.2  feet  per  mile,  and  but  little  side-cutting,  through  a  thickly 
timbered  country,  as  far  as  Kitchelus. 

The  divide  must  now  be  pierced  by  a  tunnel  11,840  yards  long,  of  a  character  similar  to  the 
one  considered  above. 

The  grade  to  the  Snoqualme  falls  will  then  be  46.3  feet  per  mile ;  all  other  circumstances 
unchanged. 

These  two  methods  of  passing  the  divide  are  given  as  the  only  means  that  have  suggested  them 
selves  to  me,  for  overcoming  the  obstacles  presented  by  the  best  pass  north  of  the  Columbia 
river.  The  elevation  of  the  different  points  was  taken  with  the  barometer,  from  the  eastward  to  a 
point  about  three  miles  west  of  the  summit;  the  distances  estimated  by  parties  passing  over  the 
ground.  It  must  be  clearly  understood  that  the  statements  just  made  are  the  results  of  a  recon 
naissance  with  no  other  instruments  than  a  compass  and  barometer,  and  that  they  are  given  merely 
as  the  best  approximations  that  could  be  made  under  the  circumstances;  liable  to  modification 
upon  any  future  examination,  made  with  more  leisure  and  better  instruments.  Such  an  examina 
tion  may  prove  the  estimated  length  of  the  tunnels  to  be  slightly  too  great,  but  will  rather 
increase,  than  decrease,  the  grades  as  given  above.  The  great  difficulty  in  the  case  consists  in  the 
short  distance  available  for  effecting  the  descent  from  the  summit  to  the  sound. 

During  the  past  summer  and  fall,  and  the  present  winter,  I,  and  the  gentlemen  of  my  party, 
spared  no  pains  in  inquiring  of  the  Indians  as  to  the  quantity  and  nature  of  the  snow  in  the 
mountains  during  the  winter.  We  examined  the  snow-marks  on  the  trees  in  the  passes;  in  more 
than  one  instance  our  guides  pointed  out  to  us,  far  above  our  heads,  where  they,  standing  on 
the  snow,  had  broken  off  branches  from  the  trees. 

All  the  information  thus  obtained  from  different  sources,  at  different  times,  and  various  places, 
was  perfectly  consistent,  and  is  fully  sustained  by  facts  known  in  regard  to  the  Mt.  Hood 
immigrant  trail,  the  Sierra  Nevada,  Coast  range,  &c.  We  all  agreed  in  the  opinion,  thus  founded, 
that  in  ordinary  winters  there  could  not  be  less  than  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  of  snow 
in  the  passes. 

Mr.  Tirikham  having  crossed  the  mountains  by  the  main  Yakima  Pass  on  the  21st  January, 
1854,  reports  seven  feet  of  snow  in  the  pass.  I  have  every  desire  to  give  this  report  its  due 
weight,  and  think  it  can  readily  be  explained  by  the  fact  that  this  has,  thus  far,  been  a  remarkably 
dry  season,  and  that  perhaps  the  greatest  amount  of  snow  may  usually  be  found  in  the  mountains 
at  a  later  period  than  this.  In  any  event,  I  still  remain  of  the  opinion  that,  in  ordinary  winters, 
not  less  than  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  of  snow  will  be  found  in  the  passes  during  the  most 
unfavorable  months  of  the  year. 

With  regard  to  the  Columbia  River  Pass,  I  am  not  prepared  to  speak  so  much  in  detail.  The 
last  barometer  being  broken  before  we  reached  there  on  our  return,  and  for  other  good  reasons,  I 
passed  down  by  water.  Mr.  Lander,  however,  travelled  the  greater  part  of  the  distance  by  land; 
and  as  his  examination  corroborates  the  opinion  I  formed  at  the  time,  I  shall  content  myself  with 
expressing  in  general  terms  the  nature  of  that  pass. 

The  only  tunnel  required  will  be  to  effect  the  passage  around  Cape  Horn  mountain ;  this  will 
not  exceed  seven  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  a  close  examination  may  prove  even  this  to  be 
unnecessary.  There  need  be  no  gradient  to  exceed  ten  feet  per  mile ;  no  trouble  of  any  conse 
quence  is  to  be  apprehended  from  the  snow ;  the  work  will  be  prosecuted  with  much  greater 
rapidity  and  economy — the  supplies  much  more  easily  furnished  than  on  the  Yakima  route. 

The  distance  from  the  mouth  of  Snake  river  to  Seattle,  by  this  pass,  is  about  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles  longer  than  by  the  Yakima  Pass;  considerable  side-cutting  in  rock  will  be  necessary. 
The  road  should  follow  the  Columbia  to  the  valley  of  the  Cowlitz;  and  following  that  valley, 
take  as  direct  a  line  as  possible  from  the  "Farms"  to  Seattle.  The  country  is  of  such  a  nature 
that  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  suitable  gradients;  a  great  part  of  the  distance  from 
the  Cowlitz  Farms  to  Seattle  will  be  through  gravelly  prairies. 


CASCADES   AND   LINE   OF   SNOQUALME   PASS.  183 

From  Wallah-Wallah  to  Seattle  there  will  be  but  ten  streams  of  any  consequence  to  bridge; 
these  bridges  will  not  be  of  great  length,  nor  will  their  construction  present  any  unusual  diffi 
culties.  As  a.  matter  of  course,  there  are  a  number  of  rivulets  to  be  bridged.  It  is  unnecessary 
for  me  to  enter  upon  the  discussion  of  a  question  so  generally  understood  as  the  economy  of 
low  grades  and  short  tunnels,  both  as  to  the  construction  and  subsequent  use  of  a  railroad ; 
neither  does  it  come  within  my  province  to  consider  these  passes  as  to  their  positions  with  respect 
to  the  general  line  from  the  Rocky  mountains  westward,  whether  crossing  by  the  South  Pass  or 
to  the  north  of  it.  Having  stated  what  I  know  about  them,  I  have  merely  to  consider  their  relative 
merits  with  regard  to  the  physical  obstacles  presented  by  each. 

I  am  of  the  opinion  that  the  Yakima  Pass  is  barely  practicable,  and  that  only  at  a  high  cost 
of  time,  labor,  and  money. 

The  Columbia  River  Pass  is  not  only  undoubtedly  practicable,  but  is  remarkably  favorable. 
I  see  no  reason  to  believe  that  an  equally  good  one  can  be  found  anywhere  through  the  Cascade 
range,  or  the  Sierra  Nevada  ;  and  have  no  hesitation  in  pronouncing  it  to  be,  by  far,  the  best  from 
45°  30'  to  49°  north  latitude.  The  question  is,  after  all,  reduced  to  a  choice  between  the  shorter 
line,  high  grades,  a  very  long  tunnel,  and  almost  certain  difficulty  from  the  snow,  in  one  case; 
and  the  longer  line,  low  grades,  little  or  no  tunnelling,  and  no  trouble  from  the  snow,  in  the  other. 
I  prefer  the  latter. 

The  main  Yakima  Pass  giving  quite  a  direct  line  from  the  mouth  of  Snake  river  to  Seattle,  it 
would  be  desirable  that  an  instrumental  survey  should  be  made  of  it.  as  well  as  of  the  Columbia 
River  Pass,  should  any  more  railroad  explorations  be  made  on  this  line.  I  have  mentioned  Seattle 
as  the  proper  terminus  of  the  road,  whether  it  crosses  the  mountains  by  the  main  Yakima  or  by 
the  Columbia  Pass.  This  place  is  situated  on  Elliott  bay,  and  is  by  far  superior  to  any  other 
harbor  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Puget  sound — I  mean  here,  by  Puget  sound,  the  sheet  of  water 
made  up  of  the  sound,  properly  so  called,  Admiralty  inlet,  Bellingham  bay,  &c. 

Seattle  is  the  nearest  to  the  Straits  of  Fuca.  It  is  easily  entered  with  any  of  the  prevailing 
winds,  is  secure  from  heavy  seas,  and  has  a  most  excellent  holding-ground  of  blue  clay,  and 
good  depth  of  water — thirty  fathoms.  The  banks  are  suitable  for  a  town ;  the  deep  water 
comes  so  near  the  shore  that  but  very  short  wharves  will  be  required.  Semi-bituminous  coal 
has  been  found  within  fourteen  miles  by  water  up  the  D'Wamish.  The  harbor  can  be  defended 
by  permanent  fortifications. 

Next  to  this  place,  Steilacoom  is  the  best  terminus  on  the  eastern  shore  :  it  is  not  so  accessible 
from  the  straits;  it  affords  a  fair  harbor  for  large  vessels;  and  the  "Narrows,"  which  cover 
this  harbor,  are  more  easily  defended  by  permanent  works  than  are  the  approaches  to  Seattle. 

The  examination  of  the  passes  of  the  Cascade  mountains  was  necessarily  limited  to  a  hasty 
reconnaissance,  for  the  reason  that  that  range  was  almost  wholly  unknown — in  fact,  nothing  what 
ever  was  known  of  the  portion  north  of  the  Yakima  Pass ;  and  as  I  was  under  the  necessity 
of  completing  the  examination  as  far  as  the  northern  limits  of  our  territory,  I  had  no  choice,  but 
to  ascertain,  with  the  least  possible  delay,  the  most  important  facts  with  reference  to  each  pass, 
and  then  push  on  in  search  of  others. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

GEO.  B.  McCLELLAN, 
Lieut.  Engineers  and  Bvt.  Capt.  U.  S.  A., 

Commanding  Western  Division  of  Survey. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Exploration,  fyc. 


184  SNOQUALME   PASS. 

5.  RAILROAD  REPORT  OF  THE  PRACTICABILITY  OF  THE  SNOQUALME  PASS,  AND  THE  OBSTRUCTIONS 
TO  BE  APPREHENDED  FROM  SNOW,  BY  MR.  A.  W.  TINKHAM. 

[Mr.  Tinkham  extended  the  survey  from  the  point  to  which  it  had  been  carried  by  Captain  McClellan  to  Seattle,  on  Puget 
sound,  and  made  examinations  of  the  depth  of  snow  in  the  month  of  January,  1854.] 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  June  19,  1854. 

SIR:  By  your  direction  I  made  a  winter  examination  of  the  line  of  the  Yakima  in  January, 
and,  crossing  the  mountains  by  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  carried  the  line  to  Seattle,  on  Puget  sound. 

The  Columbia  may  be  crossed  near  the  mouth  of  the  Snake  river  with  a  width  of  about  four 
hundred  and  fifty  yards.  Crossing  the  Columbia,  the  line  enters  the  valley  of  the  Yakima. 
This  river,  in  the  lower  part  of  its  valley,  has  a  width  of  some  one  hundred  yards ;  flows  with 
a  steady  current;  is  rarely  fordable  ;  for  about  forty  miles  from  its  mouth  has  no  wood  on  its  banks, 
other  than  the  small  willow  and  occasional  poplar;  and  is  bordered  on  either  side  by  high 
rounded  hills  destitute  of  woods,  apparently  dry,  and  scantily  covered  with  grass,  and  on 
whose  slopes  the  underlying  trap-rock  is  frequently  exposed.  These  hills,  at  several  intervals, 
touch  upon  the  river  for  a  short  distance  only,  and  again  retire  frequently  several  miles  from 
the  river,  thus  dividing  the  river-bottom  into  several  separate  and  prairie-like  portions,  to  some  or 
all  of  which  the  Indians  have  given  names.  The  artemisia,  in  the  part  of  the  valley  near  the 
Columbia,  is  abundant  on  the  more  elevated  positions  of  the  bottom  lands,  growing  less  as  we 
ascend  the  valley,  and  finally  disappearing  altogether.  After  ascending  some  forty  miles  up 
the  river,  portions  of  the  bottom  lands  of  considerable  extent  are  noticed,  so  little  raised  above 
the  level  of  the  river  as  to  be  frequently  overflowed  and  marshy;  are  marked  by  a  stout,  lofty 
swamp  grass,  and  are  cut  with  occasional  slough-like  channels,  which  are  perhaps  dry  and  hard 
in  summer,  but  in  winter  were  wet  and  miry,  and  were  avoided  by  the  Indians  with  me. 

For  some  one  hundred  miles  up,  the  valley  is  extremely  favorable ;  the  rise  of  the  valley  is 
very  small,  (by  Captain  McClellan's  observations  an  average  of  but  about  twelve  feet  per  mile,) 
and  the  only  expensive  work  to  be  encountered  being  the  limited  amount  of  rock-cutting 
where  the  hills  close  in  upon  the  river  in  three  places  of  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  one  or 
perhaps  two  crossings  of  the  Yakima,  with  several  other  small  streams.  At  the  end  of  this 
distance  the  valley  narrows,  and  the  more  broken  grounds  show  that  one  is  on  the  slopes  of  the 
mountains.  To  Lake  Kitchelus,  however,  within  a  few  miles  of  the  summit,  the  rise  of  the  val 
ley,  though  more  rapid,  is  still  very  gentle. 

After  the  distance  of  forty  miles  spoken  of  as  destitute  of  wood,  the  river  is  generally  lined 
with  cotton-wood,  the  pine  occasionally  mingling  with  the  latter  wood,  and  becoming  more 
numerous  higher  up  the  valley. 

By  my  own  estimate  the  summit  of  the  pass  is  one  hundred  and  fifty-five  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Yakima.  At  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  and  five  miles  from  the  mouth  the 
line  has  entered  the  more  open  borders  of  the  extensive  wooded  district,  reaching  thence  to  the 
shores  of  Puget  sound.  On  the  east  slope  of  the  mountains,  pines,  spruces,  firs,  cedars,  larch, 
and  some  small  amount  of  unimportant  hard-wood  trees,  are  the  general  growth;  on  the  western 
slopes  the  mass  of  the  growth  is  as  elsewhere  on  the  sound,  fir  and  cedar. 

As  might  be  supposed,  the  obstacle  to  be  overcome  in  this  important  route,  presenting  much 
that  is  promising,  and  demanding  in  the  future  surveys  the  most  careful  attention,  is  the  passage 
of  the  summit  with  suitable  grades.  The  saving  of  distance  in  the  Great  Trunk  line,  connecting 
the  Mississippi  and  the  great  lakes  with  the  Pacific,  is  so  considerable  as  to  warrant  a  large 
expenditure  to  overcome  the  natural  obstacles  of  the  route. 

Captain  McClellan  obtained  barometric  observations,  giving  a  profile  of  the  route  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Yakima  to  a  point  three  miles  west  of  the  summit.  From  this  point  westward,  to 
the  ocean,  no  connected  observations  have  been  made. 

To  present  clearly  the  result  of  my  own  observations,  I  will  refer  to  the  two  methods  suggested 
by  Captain  McClellan  for  passing  the  summit : 


SNOQUALME   PASS.  185 

1.  By  means  of  a  tunnel,  4,000  yards  (2.27  miles)  in  length,  from  the  level  of  Willailootzas, 
about  3,000  feet  above  the  sound,  with  an  eastern  approach  of  eighteen  and  a  half  miles  with 
a  grade  of  48. 4  feet  per  mile,  and  western  descent  of  forty-five  miles  at  59.S  feet  per  mile. 

2.-  By  a  tunnel  11,845  yards  (0.73  miles)  long  from  the  level  of  Lake  Kitchelus,  2,388  feet 
above  Vancouver,  with  an  eastern  approach  of  eighteen  and  a  half  miles  with  a  grade  of  15.2 
feet  per  mile,  and  a  western  descent  of  forty-five  miles  at  46.3  feet  per  mile. 

These  estimates  suppose  a  uniform  grade  for  the  distance  given,  and,  as  is  remarked  by 
Captain  McClellan,  the  grade  will  necessarily  be  broken,  and  higher  than  the  estimate  in  many 
places. 

Being  \vithout  instruments  or  snow-shoes,  and  on  the  coldest  days  of  winter,  it  was  impossible 
for  me  to  carry  a  profile  down  to  the  sound,  or  to  investigate  the  best  mode  of  passing  the  mount 
ain  ;  but  I  think  that  the  lower  tunnel  might  be  shortened  some,  and  I  observed  that  while  the 
distance  between  the  summit  and  Wallah- Wallah  is  nearly  as  I  made  it,  the  distance  between 
the  summit  and  the  sound  is  much  less. 

From  about  the  level  where  the  tunnel  at  the  water-level  of  Lake  Kitchelus  would  de-bouche 
on  the  western  side,  I  judged  that  the  natural  descent  of  the  valley  of  the  Nook-noo  was  sixty 
feet  per  mile,  and  that  it  soon  became  less  than  this.  I  think  that  from  this  point  westward  no 
serious  difficulty  exists,  and  the  balance  of  the  road  to  Seattle  maybe  made  without  objectionable 
grades,  or  work  of  an  unusually  expensive  character.  Although  the  explorations  of  this  route 
are  still  very  incomplete,  my  own  meagre  examinations  are  sufficiently  conclusive  to  establish  the 
practicable  character  of  the  country  between  Seattle  and  the  Snoqualme  falls. 

One  of  the  objections  to  this  route,  of  serious  importance,  if  existing,  is,  that  in  winter  the  Yaki- 
ma  valley  is  much  obstructed,  and  the  mountain  summit  impassable  from  the  depth  of  the  snows. 
The  exploration  which,  by  your  direction,  I  made  from  Wallah-Wallah  to  Seattle,  was  princi 
pally  for  the  decision  of  this  question;  and  I  give  in  brief  its  results. 

The  trip  from  Wallah-Wallah  to  Seattle  occupied  the  greater  part  of  January  of  last  winter, 
and  just  as  I  was  preparing  to  leave  Wallah-Wallah  the  weather  suddenly  changed  and  became 
severely  cold,  and  the  passage  of  the  mountains  was  made  in  the  coldest  days  during  the  winter, 
a  winter  of  greater  cold  on  the  Columbia  and  Puget  sound  than  is  usual. 

I  found  no  snow  in  Yakima  valley  until,  on  January  13th,  about  seventy  miles  from  its  mouth, 
the  snow  was  from  two  to  three  inches  deep.  To  this  point  I  found  the  Indians,  in  large  and 
small  camps,  scattered  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  the  two  largest  camps  being  forty-eight 
and  sixty-six  miles  distant  from  its  mouth.  These  Indians  had  grazing  with  them  large  bands 
of  horses  arid  some  cattle;  wrere  in  their  permanent  camps,  and  evidently,  with  their  experience 
and  perfect  acquaintance  with  the  winter,  had  in  the  fall  prepared  for  the  occupation  of  their 
winter  camp,  where  I  found  them,  without  the  expectation  that  the  snow  would  drive  them 
thence,  or  destroy  their  horses  and  cattle. 

Ninety  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  January  16,  the  snow  was  three  or  four  inches  deep; 
the  grass  was  good,  and  the  small  number  of  Indians  here  had  a  few  horses  grazing  near  this 
camp.  Thenceforward  the  snow  slowly  increased,  until,  sixty-five  miles  farther  on,  on  the  21st 
of  January,  I  crossed  the  summit  of  the  Yakima  Pass  with  a  depth  of  snow  of  six  feet  for  a  few 
miles.  Fourteen  miles  west  of  the  summit  the  snow  was  but  eight  inches  deep,  mostly  the  de 
posit  of  a  snow-storm  occurring  during  my  passage  of  the  mountain,  and  thence  rapidly  dimin 
ished,  at  the  Snoqualme  Falls  being  an  inch  or  two  deep,  and  so,  protected  by  the  trees,  just 
covering  the  ground,  continued  nearly  to  the  shores  of  the  sound,  where  was  neither  snow  nor  ice. 

For  about  six  miles  on  the  summit  the  snow  was  found  to  be  six  feet  deep,  with  an  occa 
sional  depth  of  seven,  as  also  of  four  feet.  Eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  of  this  fell  on  the  night 
preceding  the  day  on  which  I  crossed  the  divide.  The  whole  was  light  and  dry  like  a  mass  of 
feathers,  and  the  snow-shoes  sunk  through  the  fall  of  the  preceding  night,  burying  themselves 
nearly  two  feet,  and  making  the  travelling  very  laborious.  The  weather,  while  making  the  pass- 
24/ 


186  PASS    OF    THE   COLUMBIA    RIVER. 

age  of  the  mountains,  was  generally  clear  and  very  cold.  Immediately  after  reaching  the  west 
ern  slopes  the  weather  became  milder,  soon  damp,  and  finally,  after  passing  Snoqualme  Falls, 
rainy. 

The  whole  breadth  of  snow  over  twelve  inches  deep  was  some  less  than  sixty  miles  in  extent. 
Of  this  about  forty-five  miles  were  two  feet  and  upwards  ;  about  twenty  miles  were  four  feet  and 
upwards  ;  and  six  miles  were  six  feet  and  upwards. 

All  of  the  snow  was  light  and  dry  ;  it  was  the  accumulated  snows  of  the  winter  to  January  21, 
deposited  in  successive  layers  of  from  a  few  inches  to  two  feet  deep,  which  had  generally  lain 
undisturbed  since  their  fall;  and  they  present  little  obstruction  to  removal  in  comparison  with 
the  compact,  drifted  snows  of  the  Atlantic  States. 

The  Yakima  Indians  with  me,  who  were  well  acquainted  with  the  route  both  in  summer  and 
winter,  cached  their  snow-shoes  only  eighteen  miles  west  of  the  summit,  to  be  used  when  they 
went  back  to  their  country.  They  could  not  return  there  until  as  late  as  February  10,  and  evi 
dently,  at  that  place,  expected  no  increase  of  snow  during  the  interval  of  their  absence. 

I  see  no  well-grounded  reason  to  apprehend  that  the  regular  running  of  railway  trains  would  be 
hindered  in  winter  from  the  snow  in  the  Yakima  Pass. 

My  exploration  was  made  for  the  purpose  of  getting  the  winter  condition  of  the  pass  ;  and, 
as  you  are  aware,  I  had  no  white  man  with  me.  I  had  previously  been  obliged  to  abandon  my 
barometer  and  thermometer.  I  had  with  me  only  a  pocket-compass,  and,  under  the  difficulties 
with  which  all  such  winter  explorations  are  attended,  could  accomplish  little  more  than  what  I 
have  here  set  before  you. 

From  opinions  of  the  route  while  passing  over  it,  I  think  it  probable  that,  with  the  shorter 
tunnel  proposed  by  Captain  McClellan — 2.27  miles  in  length — we  shall  be  able  to  pass  the  sum 
mit  with  eighty-feet  grades  for  a  limited  distance,  say  fifteen  miles,  or  seven  and  a  half  miles 
ascent  and  seven  and  a  half  miles  descent. 

I  am,  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  W.  TINKHAM. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Command  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey,  &{c. 


6.  REPORT  ON  THE  RAILROAD  PRACTICABILITY  OF  THE  PASS  OF  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER,  BY  MR. 

F.  W.  LANDER,  CIVIL  ENGINEER. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

January  5,  1854. 

SIR:  The  high  floods  to  which  the  Columbia  river  is  subject  are  serious  obstacles  to  obtaining 
the  best  location  for  cheap  construction  offered  by  its  valley.  From  the  danger  to  be  appre 
hended  from  them,  it  will  be  necessary  to  place  the  bed  of  the  road  at  some  distance  above  the 
ordinary  level  of  the  water,  and  thus  incur  the  need  of  cutting  deeply  in  many  spurs  and  ledges. 
I  am  of  the  opinion,  however,  that  the  general  grade  of  the  road  will  not  exceed  ten  feet  per 
mile;  and  the  facilities  for  borrowing  from  the  debris  of  the  neighboring  ledges  a  material  needing 
no  tool  but  the  shovel,  and  the  long  stretches  of  prairie  and  bottom  land  that  occur  where  an 
embankment  road-bed  may  be  used,  protected  from  the  action  of  the  water  by  the  simple  means 
of  placing  the  weightier  material  at  its  natural  slope  on  the  outer  edge,  will  materially  reduce  cost. 

At  eastern  prices,  the  whole  of  this  work,  with  the  due  amount  of  protective  material,  could 
be  constructed  at  fifty  cents  per  cubic  yard  ;  and,  when  built,  would  be  unequalled  in  the  grand 
points  of  facility  of  drainage  and  preservation  of  superstructure. 

It  may  become  necessary  to  tunnel  the  mountainous  point  termed  Cape  Horn.  Passing  this 
point  by  water,  I  was  not  able  to  obtain  so  fair  a  view  of  the  opportunity  afforded  for  the  adjust- 


PASS   OF   THE   COLUMBIA    RIVER.  187 

merit  of  the  line  in  deflection  to  avoid  it,  or  the  severity  of  the  changes  of  direction  needed  in 
curvature.  I  shall  report  more  fully  in  regard  to  this  matter  after  a  careful  examination  on  my 
way  back. 

On  so  important  a  line  as  the  proposed  Pacific  railroad,  I  should  not  recommend  curvatures  of 
less  than  two  thousand  feet  radii,  or  a  reverse  within  five  hundred  feet  of  the  tangent  point,  save  in 
extreme  or  nearly  impracticable  cases,  which  the  latter  is  not.  The  tunnel  would  not  exceed 
seven  hundred  feet,  and  would  cost,  at  eastern  prices,  say  sixty-five  dollars  per  lineal  foot — a 
high  estimate,  when  the  character  of  the  ledge  is  considered.  The  length  of  this  tunnel,  working 
both  faces,  does  not  hinder  its  construction  in  a  short  space  of  time;  and  I  am  by  no  means 

certain  that  it  is  absolutely  necessary. 

************ 

The  greater  facilities  for  applying  large  forces  of  laborers  upon  the  river  line,  and  thus  for 
warding  it  to  an  early  completion,  is  an  important  item  in  obtaining  a  result;  for  the  use  of  the 
rail  in  carrving  supplies  into  the  interior  bears  very  fully  upon  the  Question  of  location  for  the 
first  five  hundred  miles  of  the  line,  and  will  rule  the  cost  of  those  porlions  of  the  route  at  a 
distance  from  communication;  therefbie,  as  abundant  means  of  transportation  as  exist,  by  the 
navigable  waters  of  the  Columbia,  should  give  their  aid  by  artificial  means  for  reaching  the  far 
interior,  where  leagues  of  prairie  and  many  miles  of  shallow  open  cuttings  will  be  ready  for 
the  rail  before  the  great  summit  sections  of  the  mountain  passes  are  excavated.  Contractors  will 
study  these  questions  very  fully,  as  they  materially  influence  both  the  cost  of  the  road  and  the 

time  of  its  completion. 

*********** 

You  have  directed  me  to  estimate  upon  a  bridge  across  the  Columbia,  at  some  point  between 
Vancouver  and  the  Cowlitz,  for  the  purpose  of  affording  the  valley  of  the  Willamette  railroad  com 
munication  with  the  terminus  of  the  route  by  the  Snoqualme.  It  is  impossible  to  arrive  at  even 
an  approximate  estimate  of  the  cost  of  such  a  structure  until  the  width  of  the  river  at  the 
favorable  point  is  ascertained,  the  distance  across  the  flats  and  their  quality,  the  depth  of  sound 
ings  both  of  mud  and  water,  the  force  of  current,  the  effects  of  ice  in  spring  freshets,  &c,,  all  of 
which  must  direct  in  planning  the  mode  of  bridging. 

I  believe,  however,  that  the  river  is  shallow,  and  that  a  plain  bridge  of  piling  can  be  safely 
used  for  a  large  portion  of  the  distance.  Near  the  centre,  by  the  aid  of  the  coffer-dam,  good 
piling  foundations  should  be  obtained  for  substantial  piers  of  heavy  masonry,  and  a  few  spans  of 
Howe's  truss  give  free  passage  to  the  water.  I  should  think  the  probability  of  danger  from  ice  in 
freshets,  either  in  lifting,  piling,  or  crowning,  not  sufficient  to  deter  us  from  attempting  such  a 
mode  of  structure;  and,  supposing  the  conclusions  to  be  correct  at  the  present  rates  of  labor 
upon  the  Columbia,  the  prices  of  the  work  would  range  as  follows,  viz : 
First-class  piling  structure,  at  80  cents  per  square  foot,  on  upper  bridge  surface,  for 

a  road-bed  of  20  feet,  is  per  lineal  foot  of  road  $16 — 5,000  feet  (piling) $80,000 

Howe's  truss,  at  $60  per  foot,  400  feet 24,000 

Draw  and  appendages 25,000 

Two  first-class,   large  wing  abutments;    three  deep-wa  er   piers  and  foundations; 

materials  for  masonry  transported  on  road  from  Puget  sound,   which  cost,  say 

S40  per  perch 80,000 


$209,000 


The  Columbia  can  be  bridged  at  the  Cascades,  and  at  several  points  above  the  Dalles,  without 
obstructing  navigation.  *  *  *  *  * 

I  am,  with  respect,  your  obedient  servant, 

F.  W.  LANDER. 
Gov.  J.  J.  STEVEXS,  Chief  "N.  P.  R.  Exploration  and  Survey. 


188  GENERAL   REPORT  ON   WESTERN   DIVISION. 

C. 

GENERAL  REPORTS  OF  THE  SURVEY  OF  THE  CASCADES. 

7.  GENERAL  RETORT  OF  CAPTAIN  GEORGE  B.  MCCLELLAN,  CORPS  OF  ENGINEERS,  u.  s.  A.,  IN  COM 
MAND  OF  THE  WESTERN  DIVISION. 

OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  February  25,  1853. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report  of  the  expedition  under  my  command. 
The  instructions  under  which  it  was  conducted  will  be  found  appended  to  this  report. 

I  arrived  at  Fort  Vancouver  on  the  27th  of  June;  but  it  was  not  until  July  24  that  the  party 
fairly  started. 

The  season  being  late,  our  progress  slow  for  the  first  few  weeks,  and  the  northern  half  of  the 
range  being  entirely  unknown,  it  was  impossible  to  make  more  than  a  mere  reconnaissance  of 
the  different  passes,  and  if  became  necessary  to  push  on  towards  the  north,  to  determine  whether 
an)  existed  in  that  direction. 

Supposing  that  there  would  be  less  timber  on  the  eastern  than  on  the  western  slope  of  the 
range,  and  that  the  elevation  of  the  plateau  between  the  Rocky  and  Cascade  mountains  would 
facilitate  our  progress,  J  determined  to  gain  the  eastern  slope  as  soon  as  possible;  and  then, 
moving  as  close  to  the  mountains  as  practicable,  strike  in  with  small  parties  whenever  a  possi 
bility  of  finding  a  pass  presented  ilself. 

Originally,  I  intended  to  follow  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  as  far  as  that  of  the  White  Salmon, 
and  to  reach  the  eastern  slope  by  following  the  latter  valley.  In  consequence  of  the  high  stage 
of  water  in  the  Columbia,  that  trail  was  not  yet  practicable  when  we  were  ready  to  move. 
Being  informed  that  there  would  be  but  little  difficulty  in  following  a  trail  direct  from  Vancouver 
to  Mount  St.  Helen,  and  there  cross  the  mountains,  I  determined  to  take  that  route. 

My  party  consisted  of  Lieut.  J.  K.  Duncan,  third  artillery,  astronomer,  topographer,  and 
draughtsman;  Lieut.  H.  C.  Hodges,  fourth  infantry,  quartermaster  and  commissary;  Lieut.  S. 
Mowry,  third  artillery,  meteorologist;  Mr.  George  Gibbs,  geologist  and  ethnologist;  Mr.  J.  F. 
Minter,  assistant  engineer,  in  charge  of  courses,  distances,  &c. ;  Dr.  J.  G.  Cooper,  surgeon  and 
naturalist;  Mr.  A.  L.  Lewes,  assistant  engineer  and  interpreter;  five  assistants  in  observations, 
carrying  instruments,  &c.;  two  sergeants,  two  corporals,  and  twenty-four  privates  of  fourth 
infantry — one  sergeant  being  the  quartermaster  and  commissary  sergeant ;  one  private  doing 
duty  as  blacksmith.  Six  privates,  whose  terms  of  service  expired  shortly  after  we  started,  being 
employed  as  packers,  the  number  of  the  escort  and  working  party  was  reduced  to  three  non 
commissioned  officers  and  seventeen  privates.  Two  chief  packers,  three  hunters  and  herders, 
and  twenty  packers,  completed  the  party,  which  thus  numbered  sixty-five  persons  besides  myself. 

Guides  we  took  from  place  to  place,  as  we  could  find  them;  for  even  among  the  Indians  there 
were  none  who  knew  more  than  small  portions  of  the  country  we  traversed.  There  were  173 
animals  with  the  command;  73  for  the  saddle;  100  for  packing.  Of  the  whole  number,  46  were 
mules.  The  mules  were  generally  very  excellent;  some  of  the  horses  good,  but  the  greater  par-t 
very  indifferent  Indian  horses;  the  best,  however,  that  could  be  procured  at  so  short  a  notice. 
The  pack-saddles  wiih  which  we  started  were  in  part  sent  from  San  Francisco,  partly  purchased 
from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company ;  they  were  alike  worthless.  Fortunately,  there  were  about 
fifty  of  the  old-pattern  Ringgold  saddles  at  Vancouver,  which  we  obtained ;  they  answered 
admirably.  As  it  was,  we  were  greatly  delayed  by  the  frequent  breaking  of  the  others. 

The  size  of  the  party-may  seem  too  large  ;  but  from  the  nature  of  what  little  information  we 
possessed  at  the  time  in  reference  to  the  country  we  were  to  traverse,  the  disposition  of  the 
Indians  among  whom  we  were  to  travel,  and  other  circumstances  which  need  not  be  mentioned, 
it  seemed  that  the  number  was  as  small  as  it  ought  to  be;  especially  when  the  practicability  of 
detaching  small  parties  was  considered. 


GENERAL  REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION.  189 

The  packers  were  divided  into  brigades  of  two ;  each  brigade  having  charge  of  from  four  to  six 
animals. 

The  command  was  armed  with  rifles  and  a  few  of  Colt's  revolvers.  The  supply  of  instru 
ments  consisted  of  one  sextant,  a  very  good  one ;  two  chronometers — one  indifferent,  the  other 
worthless;  one  level,  a  good  instrument;  one  surveyor's  compass,  indifferent;  two  Schmalcalder 
compasses,  good  instruments;  two  syphon  barometers,  good  instruments;  two  syphon  barome 
ters,  quite  inferior;  two  aneroid  barometers;  two  hygrometers;  four  thermometers.  These  instru 
ments  were  sent  out  in  charge  of  Lieut.  Duncan,  before  my  arrival  in  Washington  from  Texas. 

Our  only  means  of  determining  the  longitude  was  by  the  method  of  lunar  distances;  the  varia 
tion  of  the  needle  by  the  Schmalcalder  compasses. 

I  will  endeavor  to  make  this  report  as  brief  and  general  as  possible,  referring  to  the  accompany 
ing  documents  for  details. 

The  topography  of  the  country  will  be  found  in  Lieut.  Duncan's  map  and  memoir. 

Mr.  Minter's  itinerary  will  show  the  obstacles  met  with  on  the  march,  daily  distances,  &c.  For 
the  meteorology  and  barometric  profiles,  I  refer  to  Lieut.  Mowry's  reports  and  drawings. 

Mr.  Gibbs's  reports  give  the  geology  of  the  country  and  everything  relating  to  the  Indians. 

The  natural  history  and  hygiene  of  the  country  are  discussed  in  Dr.  Cooper's  reports. 

Ascertaining  that  the  trail  was  obstructed  by  brush  and  fallen  timber,  I  started  in  advance  on 
July  22,  with  a  small  working  party,  leaving  Lieut.  Duncan  in  charge  of  the  main  party,  with 
instructions  to  overtake  me  as  soon  as  possible.  I  awaited  the  command  at  Yahkohtl ;  they  arrived 
there  on  the  28th  July.  We  were  delayed  at  this  place  until  the  31st  in  making  new  pack-saddles 
to  replace  those  broken  in  this  short  distance. 

On  the  1st  of  August  we  reached  the  Cathlapoot'l,  followed  its  valley  until  the  5th,  on  which 
day  we  left  it  and  crossed  the  dividing  ridge. 

From  Vancouver  to  the  Cathlapoot'l  there  is  but  little  to  invite  settlement.  With  the  exception 
of  a  few  small  tracts,  the  country  is  generally  covered  with  dense  forests  and  thick  undergrowth; 
the  trees  often  attaining  an  immense  size.  Fir  is  the  predominant  tree ;  a  few  scattered  cedars, 
oak,  ash,  elder,  and  maple,  are  met  with.  There  could  not  well  be  a  more  abundant  growth  of 
berries  than  we  found  in  this  district:  among  them  may  be  enumerated  three  kinds  of  the 
huckleberry — blue,  purple,  and  red ;  the  blackberry,  raspberry,  thimble- berry,  gooseberry,  service- 
berry,  salmon-berry,  sahlalberry,  and  the  Oregon  grape;  the  wild  cherry  and  hazle-nut  also 
were  seen.  The  valley  of  the  Cathlapoot'l  above,  and  at  our  crossing,  is  utterly  worthless  for 
any  purpose.  On  the  Yahkohtl  river  there  are  some  three  or  four  cascades,  which  may  hereafter 
be  of  some  value  as  water-powers. 

At  the  second  camp  after  leaving  Cathlapoot'l  river,  (Taunkamis,)  we  halted  one  day,  our 
animals  having  suffered  much  from  the  almost  entire  absence  of  grass  for  four  days.  On  the 
8th  we  reached  Cheques.  On  account  of  the  animals  I  remained  here  two  days,  and  occupied  the 
time  by  taking  observations,  examining  the  vicinity,  &c. 

From  the  mountains,  near  camp,  there  was  a  fine  view  of  the  country  for  a  long  distance  in 
every  direction  ;  five  large  snow  mountakis  were  in  sight — Rainier,  St.  Helen,  Adams,  Hood, 
and  Jefferson.  The  mountains  in  this  part  of  the  range  are  generally  wooded  ;  they  have  steep 
slopes,  but  seldom  present  bold  or  rocky  outlines.  Forming  an  opinion  from  the  confused  nature 
of  the  mountains,  and  the  courses  of  the  streams,  I  thought  the  possibility  of  finding  any  suitable 
pass  near  St.  Helen  too  slight  to  justify  me  in  delaying  here  to  make  a  more  detailed  examination, 
and  determined  to  push  on  towards  Mt.  Rainier  with  as  little  delay  as  possible.  A  fair  pack-trail 
might  be  made  from  Chequos  to  near  the  head  of  the  Puyallup  or  Nisqu-ally.  From  the  Cathla 
poot'l  to  Chequos,  the  country  is  mountainous  and  sterile. 

On  the  llth  August  we  left  Chequos,  reaching  Atahnarn  on  the  17th.  Soon  after  leaving  Che 
quos  the  country  assumes  a  new  character ;  the  yellow  and  pitch  pine,  with  a  few  oaks,  become 
the  predominant  trees  ;  the  woods  open,  but  little  underbrush  is  seen,  and  the  blue  bunch-grass 


190  GENERAL   REPORT   ON    WESTERN  DIVISION. 

makes  its  appearance.  The  soil  is  of  the  lightest  character,  and  is  but  a  few  inches  in  depth,  the 
whole  of  this  portion  of  the  country  being  underlaid  by  a  sheet  of  lava.  After  travelling  five 
days  through  a  rough  and  timbered  country,  we,  on  the  Gth,  emerged  from  the  woods  into  a 
barren  country  entirely  destitute  of  timber.  With  the  exception  of  narrow  strips  in  some  of  the 
valleys,  this  district  presents  every  indication  of  absolute  worthlessness.  In  the  Simkwe  valley 
we  first  saw  the  wild  sage  ;  prairie  wheat  and  dwarf  sumach  also  occurred  here,  and  were 
frequently  seen  afterwards  in  the  valleys.  None  of  the  streams  crossed  between  Cheques  and 
Atahnam  presented  valleys  that  could  give  passes  through  the  range. 

On  the  17th  August  we  encamped  on  the  Atahnam,  one  and  a  half  mile  above  the  mission  ; 
next  day  I  visited  the  mission,  and  found  there  the  Rev.  Fathers  Pandozy  and  d'Harbomey, 
with  a  lay-brother.  The  Atahnam  mission  is  inhabited  only  during  the  summer  ;  in  winter  they 
establish  themselves  on  the  main  Yakima,  not  far  from  the  Columbia,  the  snow  being  less  deep 
and  the  cold  less  intense  in  the  latter  situation.  Here,  on  the  simplest  fare,  with  few  or  none  of 
the  comforts  of  life,  with  no  society  save  that  of  the  savages,  these  men  are  content  to  pass  their 
time  in  endeavoring  to  extend  their  religion,  and  improve  the  morals  of  their  savage  neighbors. 
I  would  here  express  my  obligations  to  the  priests  for  the  cheerfulness  with  which  they  afforded 
all  the  inlbrmation  in  their  power,  and  their  personal  kindness  to  all  the  gentlemen  of  my  party. 
At  the  mission,  I  was  informed  that  a  party  of  citizens  were  engaged  in  cutting  a  road  through 
the  Nahchess  Pass.;  that  this  road  was  nearly  finished,  and  that  the  old  Indian  trail  to  Steilacoom 
was  practicable  in  four  days.  As  there  is  but  a  scanty  supply  of  grass  in  the  Atahnam  valley, 
I  determined  to  move  forward  to  the  Wenass,  a  more  central  position,  and  affording  abundant 
grass,  there  to  make  the  new  arrangements  now  become  necessary. 

Accordingly,  having  spent  two  days  at  Atahnam  in  obtaining  information  as  to  the  country  and 
Indians,  jerking  beef,  £c.,  we  started  on  the  20th  August,  and  reached  the  Wenass  on  the  same 
day.  Finding  that  valley  to  be  a  suitable  depot,  I  proceeded  immediately  to  prepare  the  parties 
necessar}'  to  accomplish  the  purposes  in  view.  On  account  of  the  uncertainty  of  the  time  neces 
sary  to  examine  the  range,  and  the  possibility  of  being  caught  near  the  northern  boundary  line  by 
an  early  winter,  I  did  not  think  it  prudent  to  leave  the  Yakima  for  the  north  with  less  than  three 
months'  provisions.  I  determined  then  to  send  in  for  a  sufficient  supply  to  insure  this,  while  the 
examination  of  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  was  in  progress.  From  the  informalion  we  received 
with  regard  to  the  road  through  the  Nahchess  Pass,  it  seemed  certain  that  Steilacoom  could  be 
easily  reached  in  five  days:  in  addition,  a  reconnaissance  of  that  line  was  important.  That  route 
was  therefore  selected  for  the  provision  train,  and  Lieutenant  Hodges  was  detailed  to  command 
that  party.  Long  before  this  it  had  become  evident  that  our  pack-horses  were  unfit  for  the  service 
required  of  them,  and  there  seemed  to  be  good  reasons  for  believing  that  there  were  many  public 
mules  at  Fort  Steilacoom  ;  I  therefore  sent  in  no  pack-mules,  but  all  our  pack-horses,  with  Lieu 
tenant  Hodges,  giving  him  directions  to  exchange  them,  if  possible,  for  mules. 

Lieutenant  Hodges  started  from  Wenass  on  the  morning  of  the  22d  with  a  party,  consisting  of 
Mr.  Lewes — discharged  at  his  own  request  on  account  of  the  necessity  of  his  attending  to  some 
private  business  of  importance — one  non-comrnissioned  officer,  five  privates,  seventeen  packers, 
and  two  employes,  discharged  on  account  of  incapacity.  Fifty  pack-horses  and  the  necessary 
saddle-animals  accompanied  this  party.  Lieutenant  Duncan  was  directed  to  leave  Wenass  on 
the  24th,  with  a  party  of  three  men,  to  cross  to  the  main  Yakima,  examine  the  upper  part  of  that 
valley,  and  obtain  all  possible  information  in  relation  to  the  surrounding  country,  especially  to 
the  north.  Mr.  Gibbs  was  directed  to  examine  the  valley  of  the  Yakima  to  its  junction  with  the 
Columbia ;  to  leave  on  the  25th,  with  one  man  and  a  guide.  With  Mr.  Minter,  and  six  men,  1 
started  on  the  23d  to  examine  the  Nahchess  Pass.  The  remainder  of  the  party,  with  the  animals, 
were  left  in  camp  at  Wenass,  under  charge  of  Lieutenant  Mowry.  On  the  22d  we  received  a 
visit  from  the  priests,  accompanied  by  Kamaiahkan,  the  principal  chief  of  this  country ;  they 
spent  the  night  with  us,  and  on  the  next  morning  I  had  a  long  "  talk"  with  Kamaiahkan,  at  the 


GENERAL   REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION.  191 

dose  of  which  he  received  a  handsome  present.  He  expressed  very  friendly  feelings,  and  I  have 
no  reason  to  doubt  his  sincerity,  for,  in  a  number  of  instances,  he  displayed  an  honesty  not  often 
found  among  Indians. 

Having  finished  the  talk  with  the  chief,  I  started  to  overtake  my  party,  which  had  moved 
off  s.ome  two  hours  before  me.  The  trail  led  up  the  valley  of  the  Wenass,  for  a  few  miles,  and 
then  crossed  to  the  Nahchess.  At  the  distance  of  a  mile  above  the  main  camp  the  Wenass  valley 
becomes  quite  narrow,  the  hills  closing  in ;  the  grass  continues  good ;  the  valley  destitute  of  lim 
ber,  with  the  exception  of  the  usual  scanty  fringe  of  cotton-wood  and  willow,  until  the  trail  leaves 
the  main  and  passes  up  a  lateral  valley  covered  with  an  open  growth  of  yellow  pine.  About 
half  a  mile  above  our  camp  were  some  quite  large  and  good  potato  patches ;  indifferent  corn 
and  melons  are  also  cultivated  here  by  the  Indians.  Above  this  point  the  soil  appears  to  be 
quite  poor.  The  ascent  of  the  dividing  ridge  is  long  and  broken,  but  never  very  steep  for  any 
long  distance,  although  the  elevation  of  the  summit  is  great.  The  mountains  are  generally  cov 
ered  with  yellow  pine,  never  thick,  nor  with  much  underbrush ;  sometimes  they  present  tracts  of 
bare  lava.  The  descent  to  the  Nahchess  is  quite  steep,  and  is  generally  wooded  with  the  same 
timber.  The  soil  on  the  divide  is  of  the  most  inferior  quality.  We  encamped  this  day  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  Nahchess,  on  a  small  spring  branch.  I  will  now,  for  a  moment,  omit  the 
description  of  the  Nahchess  valley  as  we  travelled  up;  merely  state  that  on  the  25th  we  reached 
and  encamped  upon  the  summit,  and  then  take  up  the  description  of  the  valley  from  its  junction 
with  the  Yakima,  without  reference  to  daily  marches. 

To  the  distance  of  some  twelve  miles  above  its  mouth,  this  valley  varies  from  one  mile  to  two 
miles  in  width,  with  one  or  two  low  terraces.  There  is  no  timber  here ;  the  fringe  of  bushy 
cotton-wood  and  willow  being  too  insignificant  to  deserve  the  name.  When  the  valley  is  not 
covered  with  volcanic  stones,  it  is,  to  all  appearance,  of  the  most  miserable  soil,  generally  covered 
with  wild  sage,  and  having  but  little  grass.  The  hills  are  quite  precipitous  where  they  border 
the  valley,  and  increase  in  height  as  they  approach  the  main  range.  At  the  distance  from  the 
mouth  above  mentioned,  the  character  of  the  valley  undergoes  an  entire  change.  The  hills  by 
this  time  become  mountains,  close  in  upon  the  stream,  so  that  the  valley  from  here  to  the  head  is 
reduced,  as  a  general  rule,  to  a  mere  canon,  occasionally  widening  out  for  short  distances.  The 
stream  winds  with  very  sharp  curves.  The  canons  are  often,  for  a  mile  or  two  in  length,  occu 
pied  to  their  whole  width  by  the  stream.  The  walls  of  these  canons  frequently  rise  vertically  to 
the  height  of  400  feet,  the  mountains  coming  boldly  down  to  their  edges.  The  walls  are  of  solid 
rock — generally  trap,  or  a  compact  igneous  rock.  The  Indian  trail  is  a  very  bad  one — avoiding 
the  valley,  and  keeping  to  the  mountain-sides,  where  the  ground  is  very  stony;  the  ascents  and 
descents  long  and  steep — so  much  so,  that  it  would  not  be  possible  to  construct  a  wagon-road  along 
the  mountain-sides  at  any  reasonable  expense.  The  road  would,  therefore,  be  forced  into  the 
valley,  and  necessarily  be  located  at  times  in  the  water,  besides  requiring  an  almost  endless  number 
of  crossings.  Independently  of  the  impossible  grade  necessary  near  the  head  of  the  valley,  the 
amount  of  side-cutting  in  rock,  embankment,  sharp  curves,  deep  cutting,  and  short  tunnels,  would 
render  the  construction  of  a  railroad  too  difficult  and  expensive,  if  not  impracticable.  The  timber 
(yellow  pine)  commences  in  the  valley,  about  eighteen  miles  from  the  mouth.  For  some  distance 
it  is  open,  and,  with  the  undergrowth,  thick  only  in  places.  The  nearer  the  divide  is  approached, 
the  thicker  the  growth  becomes — the  underbrush  and  fallen  logs  more  troublesome — and  the  yel 
low  pine  gradually  gives  place  to  the  white  spruce,  balsam-fir,  &c.,  until,  near  the  summit,  it  dis 
appears.  In  all  the  openings  of  the  valley  the  grass  is  good.  Some  fifteen  miles  east  of  the 
summit  there  is  a  chain  of  small  marshy  prairies,  with  excellent  grass ;  and  upon  the  mountains 
immediately  south  of  the  pass  are  some  five  or  six  prairies  of  a  larger  size,  and  similar  nature, 
through  which  the  trail  passes.  It  may  be  well  to  mention  here,  once  for  all,  that  the  Indian  trails 
in  these  mountains  seldom  follow  the  valleys ;  they  generally  keep  to  the  higher  ground,  where 
the  woods  are  less  dense ;  for  the  Indian  prefers  riding  over  a  mountain,  to  the  labor  of  cutting  a 


192  GENERAL   REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION. 

tr;iil  over  more  level  ground.  In  other  words,  he  has  more  consideration  for  himself  than  for  his 
horse. 

The  largest  fork  of  the  stream  joins  that  up  which  the  trail  passes  about  25  miles  from  the 
summit,  and  heads  directly  in  Mt.  Rainier ;  its  valley  is  even  more  difficult  than  that  of  the 
trail.  The  elevation  of  the  lowest  point  of  the  divide,  above  Vancouver,  is  4,890  feet.  In  the 
last  seven  miles  of  the  valley  the  ascent  is  229  feet  per  mile.  From  the  summit  of  the  mount 
ains,  bordering  the  pass,  there  is  a  fine  view  of  Mt.  Rainier.  Exceedingly  massive,  it  presents, 
from  near  the  pass,  the  appearance  of  a  long  ridge  with  two  peaks;  the  eastern  one  being 
rather  the  higher,  and  more  rounded  of  the  two.  At  a  short  distance  above  the  snow-line  there 
is  a  belt  of  j^irged  cones,  extending  the  whole  breadth  of  the  mountain.  Between  the  pass 
and  Rainier,  as  well  as  to  the  west,  the  mountains  are  generally  covered  with  timber;  to  the 
south  and  southeast,  they  are  frequently  bare  of  trees,  quite  rough,  and  with  more  or  less 
snow  upon  them  in  August;  but  to  the  northward  there  is  a  vast  sea  of  bare,  jagged,  snow- 
crowned  ranges  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

Proceeding  westward,  the  trail  soon  descends  by  a  very  precipitous  route  into  the  valley  of 
Green  river;  follows  that  as  far  as  its  juncture  with  the  White  river,  (they  form  the  S'kamish, 
or  south  fork  of  the  D'Wamish,)  and  keeps  to  the  S'kamish  valley,  about  ten  miles  farther.  To 
the  point  where  the  trail  leaves  this  valley  the  country  passed  over  is  all  of  the  same  nature. 
The  descent  for  the  first  twenty  miles  from  the  summit  is  very  abrupt;  the  valley  very  narrow, 
much  like  that  of  the  Nahchess,  except  that  it  is  much  more  heavily  timbered.  The  mount 
ains  approach  the  stream  so  often  that  frequent  crossings  are  necessary. 

Portions  of  the  S'kamish  valley  are  very  boggy ;  grass  is  almost  entirely  wanting  for  a  dis 
tance  of  at  least  fifty  miles  from  the  summit.  From  the  S'kamish  to  the  Puyallup,  the  country 
is  a  high  plateau,  much  broken  up  by  ridges  and  mountains.  It  is  densely  timbered  with  fir,  but 
interspersed  with  prairies,  the  soil  of  some  of  which  is  good. 

The  descent  into  and  the  ascent  from  the  valley  of  the  Puyallup  are  long  and  steep.  From 
Puyallup,  towards  the  Nisqually,  the  country  is  elevated,  and  although  somewhat  rolling,  is  by 
no  means  so  rough  as  the  section  last  described.  This  also  is  densely  timbered  and  interspersed 
with  prairies,  which  assume  a  more  grave  and  sterile  character  as  the  sound  is  approached. 
The  crossings  of  the  streams  on  this  trail  are  bad ;  the  current  being  rapid,  and  the  bottom 
covered  with  loose  and  rounded  stones. 

Having  satisfied  myself  of  the  impracticability  of  the  Nahchess  Pass  for  a  railway  communica 
tion,  I  returned  and  reached  the  depot  camp  at  Wenass  late  on  the  29th. 

On  the  31st  I  received  a  note  from  Lieutenant  Hodges,  in  which  he  informed  me  that  he  had 
arrived  when  it  was  written,  on  the  27th,  within  twenty-five  miles  of  Steilacoom  ;  that  he  had 
been  three  days  without  grass,  and  was  out  of  provisions ;  that  sixteen  horses  had  already 
broken  down;  that  there  were  no  mules  to  be  had  at  Steilacoom ;  and  that  it  would  be  perfectly 
impossible  for  him  to  bring  out  the  number  of  rations  I  required.  He  desired  instructions. 

1  at  once  determined  to  send  in  the  escort  and  reduce  the  party  to  the  minimum,  and  wrote  to 
him  by  an  Indian  express  to  that  effect ;  also,  directing  him  to  discharge  a  certain  number  of  his 
packers. 

Lieutenant  Duncan  returned  about  noon  of  this  day,  31st,  from  the  upper  Yakima;  Mr.  Gibbs 
late  in  the  afternoon,  from  the  lower  Yakima.  Early  on  the  2d  September,  Lieutenant  Mowry 
started  for  the  Dalles  with  seventeen  men,  of  whom  but  two  were  to  return  with  him;  he  took  in 
all  collections  made  up  to  this  time,  and  everything  that  could  be  dispensed  with. 

On  the  3d  of  September  the  depot  camp  was  moved  from  the  Wenass  to  Ketetas,  on  the  main 
Yakima.  On  the  morning  of  the  4th  I  left  camp  to  examine  the  pass  at  the  head  of  the  main 
Yakima,  with  Mr.  Gibbs,  Mr.  Minter,  and  six  men.  The  camp  was  left  under  the  care  of  Lieu 
tenant  Duncan,  with  directions  to  employ  his  available  time  in  examining  the  country  in  the 
vicinity.  I  reached  and  encamped  upon  the  divide  late  on  the  6th.  Although  a  somewhat 


GENERAL    EEPORT    ON    WESTERN    DIVISION.  193 

detailed  description  of  the  valley  of  the  Yakima  is  given  in  my  railroad  report,  dated  February  8, 
and  it  is  described  for  a  portion  of  its  length  in  Lieutenant  Duncan's  report,  I  will  here  describe 
the  nature  of  the  line,  that  it  may  the  more  readily  be  compared  with  the  description  of  Nahchess 
Pass  contained  in  this  same  report. 

The  Yakima  unites  with  the  Columbia  in  a  vast  sage  desert,  extending  to  the  north  and  north 
east  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach ;  and  the  desolate,  dark  gray  color  of  the  sage  is  unbroken  by  the 
verdure  of  grass  or  trees.  The  Columbia  is  here  about  four  hundred  yards  in  width,  with  sand 
and  gravel  banks  thirty  feet  in  height ;  a  placid  current ;  here  and  there  a  cluster  of  willow  bushes 
border  the  stream,  usually  destitute  of  vegetation.  In  the  Yakima,  at  its  mouth,  are  three  islands 
covered  with  good  grass — all  that  is  to  be  found  in  the  vicinity.  Neither  stone  nor  timber  occurs 
in  the  neighborhood.  The  valley  of  the  Yakima  soon  becomes  more  contracted  by  low  hills, 
which  gradually  close  upon  it,  and  soon  increase  in  height  as  the  stream  is  ascended.  To  the 
commencement  of  the  pine  timber,  a  distance  of  nearly  one  hundred  miles  from  the  mouth,  the 
average  width  of  the  valley  is  about  six  miles,  occasionally  reduced  to  four  or  five  hundred  yards 
by  spurs  closing  in  on  both  sides,  and  sometimes  widening  out  to  ten  miles.  Cotton-wood  and 
willow  fringe  the  stream  ;  grass  is  generally  confined  to  the  water's  edge,  but  is  not  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  adapt  the  valley  to  grazing  purposes  on  a  large  scale.  In  some  of  the  small  lateral 
valleys  good  bunch-grass  is  found,  as  well  as  on  the  summits  of  the  highest  ridges  and  hills. 
But  the  winters  are  too  severe  for  cattle  to  thrive  in  the  open  air,  the  whole  country  being 
covered  with  snow  ;  and,  in  addition,  the  bunch-grass  is  of  too  scanty  a  growth  to  be  cut  for 
hay.  During  the  winter  the  Indians  drive  their  horses  and  cattle  to  the  most  sheltered  spots, 
where  they  Iced  on  wild  sage  and  willow. 

As  far  up  as  Ketetas  the  wild  sage  covers  the  valley  in  all  parts  a  little  back  from  the  water. 
The  general  character  of  the  soil  is  sandiness,  or  exceeding  lightness;  occasionally  gravelly, 
or  covered  with  loose  stones.  It  might  in  many  places  answer  well  for  small  grains,  when 
compared  with  the  greater  part  of  the  territory.  By  reference  to  the  map,  it  will  be  observed 
that  Mr.  Gibbs  returned  from  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima  to  Wenass  by  a  trail  to  the  north  of  the 
river  valley.  From  the  point  where  he  left  the  Yakima,  his  trail  passed  through  a  wide  valley 
for  some  twenty-four  miles  ;  this  valley  is  somewhat  undulating  and  is  very  barren,  being 
almost  entirely  destitute  of  grass,  having  no  timber,  but  one  little  pool  of  water  sixteen  miles  after 
leaving  the  Yakima,  and  that  brackish;  it  is  covered  with  the  usual  growth  of  sage.  The  trail 
then  enters  a  canon  with  basaltic  walls,  and  gradually  ascends  until  the  summit  is  reached, 
in  about  eight  miles.  Grass  occurs  near  the  summit;  also,  a  few  small  pools  of  brackish  water. 
The  trail  now  gradually  descends  towards  the  west  into  a  broad  valley,  which  unites  with 
that  of  the  Yakima.  In  this  valley  the  grass  is  good;  there  are  a  few  small  pools  of  brackish 
water,  but  no  timber.  This  trail  is  not  practicable  for  a  railway,  but  would  make  a  good 
wagon  road,  were  it  not  for  the  absence  of  wood  and  scarcity  of  water.  The  upper  forty-five 
miles  of  the  valley  are  wooded  with  yellow  pine,  gradually  replaced  towards  the  summit  by 
white  spruce,  &c.  The  width  is  considerably  less  than  below,  averaging  from  one  to  two  miles ; 
it  is  always  wide  enough,  however,  to  make  a  good  road,  perfectly  practicable,  although  it  is  at 
present  much  obstructed  by  fallen  timber  and  dense  underbrush.  Occasional  prairies  afford 
an  abundance  of  grass  for  travelling  purposes  to  near  Lake  Kitchelus.  The  soil  is  less  sandy 
and  more  gravelly  than  below. 

By  reference  to  the  map  it  will  be  seen  that  the  Yakima  and  two  of  its  branches  head  in  lakes. 
These  are  surrounded  by  rough  and  lofty  mountains,  rising  directly  from  the  water's  edge,  and 
many  of  them  having  snow  upon  them  in  August.  The  lakes  are  apparently  of  great  depth ; 
the  large  salmon  are  found  in  most  of  them  at  the  proper  season. 

But  a  short  distance  above  Lake  Kitchelus — above  its  foot,  rather — the  trail  leaves  the  valley 
and  passes  westward  over  a  very  steep  and  lofty  mountain,  a  portion  of  the  dividing  ridge.     The 
pass  is  through  a  gorge  at  the  foot  and  to  the  north  of  this  mountain.     At  the  summit  of  the  pass, 
25  f 


194  GENERAL    REPORT   ON    WESTERN    DIVISION. 

which  is  here  about  one  hundred  yards  wide,  there  is  a  small  lake,  some  two  hundred  yards  long, 
fed  by  numerous  springs,  and  surrounded  by  good  grass.  In  this  little  lake  two  streams  have  their 
source  ;  one  is  the  head  of  the  Nooksai  Nooksai,  which  runs  into  the  D'Wamish  and  Puget  sound; 
the  other  into  Lake  Kitehelus  and  the  Yakima,  first  passing  through  a  lake  nearly  one  mile  long, 
called  by  the  Indians  Willailootzas.  To  the  northward  of  the  p;iss  the  mountains  are  very  lofty, 
generally  bare  at  the  top,  often  of  solid  rock,  with  sharp  outlines,  most  of  them  with  considerable 
snow  upon  them.  As  far  as  the  eye  can  determine,  there  is  no  possibility  of  effecting  a  passage  in 
that  direction;  and  there  certainly  is  none  between  this  and  the  Nahchess  Pass. 

The  descent  from  the  pass  towards  the  west  is  down  the  narrow,  steep,  and  thickly-wooded 
valley  of  the  Nooksai  Nooksai,  bordered  by  rough  and  high  mountains.  At  the  distance  of  about 
twenty-five  miles  from  the  pass  the  stream  empties  into  Lake  Nook-noo;  a  sheet  of  water  some 
four  miles  in  length,  at  the  foot  of  which  there  is  a  considerable  fall.  The  stream  then  passes 
through  a  thickly-timbered  and  quite  level  country,  into  the  D'Wamish,  which  empties  into  El 
liott  bay  near  Seattle.  This  country  will  be  described  more  in  detail  in  another  connexion. 

Before  leaving  the  subject  of  the  main  Yakima  Pass,  it  should  be  stated  that  there  is  a  foot 
trail  leading  from  the  head  of  Lake  Kitehelus  to  the  head  of  the  south  fork  of  the  Snoqualrne. 
The  Indians  represent  this  as  practicable  on  foot  with  the  greatest  difficulty,  and  that  it  is  seldom 
used,  although  much  nearer  the  Snoqualme  Falls  than  by  the  ordinary  horse  trail ;  in  (act,  there  is 
no  trail,  properly  so  called — merely  a  possibility  for  an  unencumbered  and  active  man  to  get 
through  there. 

The  size  and  shape  of  the  mountains  seem  to  verify  the  truth  of  their  statement.  More  detailed 
information  as  to  the  nature  of  the  pass,  the  nature  of  the  Yakima  river,  the  quantity  of  snow,  &c., 
will  be  found  in  my  railway  report  of  February  8,  already  referred  to.  The  quantity  of  snow  in 
the  pass  is  there  stated  at  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet ;  the  data  for  that  conclusion  are  there 
given,  and  are  still  believed  to  be  reliable.  • 

Lake  Willailootzas  is  subject  to  rises  of  some  fifteen  feet  above  its  level  at  the  time  we  visited 
it.  Its  outlet  is  subterranean  in  low  water  and  makes  its  appearance  some  three  hundred  yards 
from  the  lake;  when  the  lake  is  full  it  passes  over.  About  a  mile  below  Lake  Kitehelus  the  Yaki 
ma  (or  Yah-inse,  as  it  is  here  called)  is  some  twenty  yards  in  width  and  about  two  feet  deep, 
flowing  with  a  rapid  current  over  a  bed  of  cobble  stones.  The  banks  are  of  gravel  and  about 
ten  feet  high;  the  river  does  not  appear  to  overflow  its  banks;  it  gradually  increases  in  size  until, 
at  Ketetas,  it  is  about  forty  yards  wide  and  three  feet  deep  at  the  fords ;  near  the  mouth  it  be 
comes  about  one  hundred  yards  wide  at  low  water.  In  many  parts  of  its  course  it  is  divided 
by  sand  and  gravel  bars  into  several  channels,  and  is  liable  to  great  rises  in  the  spring.  Ac 
cording  to  the  Indians,  the  snow  is  knee-deep  at  the  mouth  in  severe  winters ;  at  Ketetas,  to 
the  middle  of  the  thigh  in  ordinary  winters ;  for  some  miles  before  reaching  the  mountains,  it  is 
six  feet  deep  ;  in  the  gorges  and  passes,  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet ;  and  in  peculiar  local 
ities,  even  more.  In  the  timbered  country  the  snow-marks  seemed  to  prove  the  truth  of  these 
statements. 

Having  completed  the  examination  of  the  pass,  as  far  as  the  time  at  my  disposal  would  permit, 
I  rejoined  the  main  party  at  Ketetas  on  the  12th  September. 

On  our  arrival  at  camp  we  found  some  of  the  party  in  a  high  state  of  excitement;  they  had 
found  gold  in  small  quantities  on  the  margin  of  the  stream,  and  were  most  industriously  seeking 
for  more.  The  fever  soon  abated,  as  the  returns  were  not  very  remunerative.  During  our  ab 
sence  a  large  Yakima  village  had  sprung  up  near  our  camp;  it  was  the  band  of  Owhai,  one  of 
the  very  best  Indians  with  whom  we  met  during  the  trip. 

Lieutenant  Mowry  had  returned  from  the  Dalles  on  the  10th.  I  will  condense  from  his  report 
a  description  of  the  country  over  which  he  passed. 

As  already  stated,  he  moved  from  Wenass  on  the  2d  ;  he  followed  the  trail  passed  previously 
over  by  the  main  party  as  far  back  as  some  three  miles  beyond  the  Sahpeniss,  with  the  exception  of 


GENERAL    REPORT    ON    WESTERN    DIVISION.  195 

crossing  the  divide  between  the  Atahnam  and  Simkwee,  opposite  the  mission.  From  the  Atah- 
nam  to  the  Dalles  there  were  three  trails ;  the  most  eastern  is  the  longest — leaving  the  Atah 
nam  near  its  mouth,  ancl  making  a  large  bend  to  the  eastward — but  it  is  the  only  one  practicable 
in  winter.  Of  the  other  two,  the  most  western  is  the  shortest  and  best  in  summer.  Lieutenant 
Mowry  followed  this  last  trail.  Leaving  our  old  trail  at  a  point  three  miles  south  of  the  Sahpeniss 
crossing,  the  Dalles  trail  passes  for  half  a  mile  through  open  woods,  then  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
through  the  northern  extremity  of  a  fine  prairie ;  on  leaving  which,  it  again  enters  the  open  woods 
and  ascends  a  difficult  hill  some  fifteen  hundred  feet  in  height ;  then  over  a  rolling  country,  and 
descends  into  a  second  prairie  about  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  first.  Lieutenant  Mowry 
describes  this  prairie  as  extending  a  considerable  distance  to  the  south  and  east;  as  being  covered 
with  excellent  grass ;  as  having  a  fine  spring  near  his  camp ;  and  as  possessing  the  richest  soil  he 
had  seen  in  the  Territory.  For  the  next  twenty-four  miles  the  country  is  covered  with  open 
woods  of  pine  and  spruce  ;  occasionally  small  prairies  are  met  with,  which,  as  well  as  the  woods, 
furnish  a  thin  growth  of  bunch-grass  for  the  first  seventeen  miles ;  in  the  last  seven  miles  the 
grass  disappears.  Four  small  streams  are  crossed  in  these  twenty-four  miles.  The  country  is 
generally  a  high,  rolling  tract;  the  trail,  during  the  last  few  miles,  skirts  the  western  slope  of  a 
lofty  range  of  hills.  The  remaining  distance  to  the  Dalles  is  destitute  of  timber,  with  the  excep 
tion  of  a  strip  half  a  mile  broad,  at  the  distance  of  about  ten  miles  from  the  Columbia  Imme 
diately  north  of  this  strip  there  is  a  fine  prairie,  varying  from  two  to  four  miles  in  width,  several 
miles  long,  covered  with  excellent  grass,  and  watered  by  a  fine  stream.  On  this  prairie  stands 
a  good  log-house,  belonging  to  Skloo,  brother  to  Kamaiahkan,  and  one  of  the  principal  chiefs  of 
the  Yakimas.  South  of  this  last  strip  of  woods  the  country  is  at  first  rolling,  and  then  sinks  into 
a  prairie,  which  extends  to  the  base  of  the  range  of  high  hills  bordering  the  Columbia.  Good 
bunch-grass  exists  as  far  as  the  foot  of  the  range,  which  is  very  high,  exceedingly  difficult  of  as 
cent  and  descent ;  much  broken  by  canons,  outcropping  of  basalt,  and  has  but  a* scanty  growth 
of  grass  upon  it.  During  the  three  days  that  elapsed  between  my  return  to  Ketetas  and  Lieut. 
Hodges'  arrival,  several  small  parties  were  engaged  in  searching  the  neighboring  streams  for 
gold,  examining  the  country,  &c. ;  no  rich  deposits  of  gold  were  found. 

On  the  16th  September  Lieutenant  Hodges  arrived  from  Steilacoom.  He  brought  with  him 
twenty-nine  pack-horses  loaded  with  provisions.  He  was  eleven  days  on  the  march  from  Steila 
coom  to  Ketetas.  Had  it  been  possible  to  foresee  the  length  of  time  necessary  for  the  train  to 
return  from  Steilacoom,  a  longer  time  might  have  been  bestowed  upon  the  examination  of  the 
Yakima  Pass.  I  regretted  that  it  should  be  so  short,  but  felt  obliged  to  retrace  my  steps  in  time 
to  reach  the  depot  camp  about  one  day  after  the  probable  tirfle  of  Lieutenant  Hodges'  arrival; 
besides,  I  at  that  time  hoped  to  find  a  better  pass  than  the  one  in  question,  farther  to  the  north. 

It  being  now  determined  to  send  into  the  Dalles  all  the  indifferent  animals  that  could,  under 
the  new  arrangement,  be  dispensed  with,  the  17th  and  18th  were  employed  in  arranging  packs, 
&c.,  and  in  making  the  preparations  for  the  main  party  to  move  northward  and  the  spare 
animals  to  be  sent  in.  On  the  19th  September  I  despatched  one  corporal,  one  private,  (just  dis 
charged,)  and  one  civilian  packer  to  the  Dalles,  in  charge  of  thirty-two  miserable  horses.  On  the 
same  day  the  main  party  moved -to  Nahnum,  at  the  northern  edge  of  Ketetas  valley. 

The  command  now  consisted  of  thirty-six  persons,  including  myself;  forty-two  riding  animals; 
fifty-two  pack  animals. 

The  animals  were  mostly  a  good  deal  recruited  by  this  time;  the  train  in  good  order;  the 
party  well  armjed,  and  supplied  with  about  seventy  days'  provisions. 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th  we  commenced  the  passage  of  the  mountains  between  the  Yakima 
and  the  Columbia-;  this  range,  which  from  the  valley  of  the  Yakima  seemed  but  an  ordinary 
ridge,  proved  to  be  a  difficult  mountain  range.  We  had  expected  to  find  the  country  north  of 
this  range  rather  level,  or,  at  most,  rolling  and  covered  with  open  pine  woods.  Our  surprise  may 
be  imagined  when  the  view  spread  before  us  from  a  commanding  point,  a  little  below  the  summit, 


196  GENERAL    REPORT   ON    WESTERN    DIVISION. 

is  described.  Five  thousand  two  hundred  feet  below  us  lay  the  Columbia,  apparently  almost  at 
our  feet:  so  small  and  insignificant  did  it  appear,  that  we  could  not  believe  it  to  be  the  "Great 
river."  In  front  of  us  the  Cascade  range  extended  directly  to  the  river,  crossing  it  in  fact ;  so 
that,  to  the  north  and  west,  there  was  nothing  to  be  seen  but  mountain  piled  on  mountain — 
rugged  and  impassable.  About  west-northwest  was  a  handsome  snow-peak,  smaller  than  Mount 
Baker;  as  it  is  not  to  be  found  on  any  previous  map  that  I  know  of,  and  had  no  name,  I  called 
it  Mount  Stuart.  Far  in  the  distance  to  the  northward  was  seen  a  range,  running  nearly  east 
and  west,  alongside  of  which  the  Columbia  flows  before  reaching  Okinnkane.  That  portion  of  the 
Cascade  range  which  crosses  the  Columbia  sinks  into  an  elevated  plateau,  which  extends  as  far 
as  the  limit  of  vision  to  the  eastward — this  is  the  Spokane  plain.  On  it  we  could  see  no  indication 
of  water;  not  a  single  tree,  except  on  the  mountain  spur;  not  one  spot  of  verdure.  It  was  of  a 
dead,  yellowish  hue,  with  large  clouds  of  black  blending  into  the  general  tinge.  It  appeared  to 
be  a  sage  desert,  with  a  scanty  growth  of  dry  bunch-grass,  and  frequent  outcroppings  of  basalt. 
Descending  by  a  very  steep  trail,  we  reached  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  on  the  21st.  Through 
a  valley  about  a  mile  in  breadth,  in  which  not  a  tree  is  to  be  seen,  and  seldom  even  a  bush,  and 
which  is  bordered  by  steep  walls  of  trap,  lava,  and  sandstone,  often  arranged  in  a  succession  of 
high  plateaux  or  steps,  the  deep,  blue  water  of  the  Columbia  flows  with  a  rapid,  powerful  current; 
it  is  the  only  life-like  object  in  this  desert.  The  character  of  the  valley  is  much  the  same  as  far 
as  Fort  Okinakane.  It  occasionally  widens  out  slightly;  again  it  is  narrowed  by  the  mountains 
pressing  in.  Sometimes  the  trail  passes  over  the  lower  bottom  ;  at  other,  over  very  elevated  and 
extensive  terraces ;  and  in  a  few  places  over  dangerous  points  of  the  mountains.  At  one  of  the 
latter,  three  miles  above  the  En-te-at-kwu,  two  of  our  mules  were  instantaneously  killed  by  falling 
over  a  precipice,  and  two  others  seriously  injured.  The  difficulty  of  the  trail  at  this  point  may 
be  imagined  from  the  fact  that  we  were  occupied  from  11  o'clock  a.  rn.,  until  dark,  in  passing 
the  train  over  a  distance  rather  less  than  two  miles. 

In  this  portion  of  the  valley  a  few  small  groves  of  pine  are  met  with ;  but  the  general  character 
is  entire  absence  of  trees  and  bushes.  In  places  only  is  the  grass  good ;  but  we  found  no  great 
difficulty  in  so  regulating  the  marches  as  to  obtain  enough  for  the  animals.  The  soil  is  so  very 
sandy  that  it  is  not  probable  it  can  ever  be  applied  to  any  useful  purpose.  Granite,  gneiss,  and 
syenite,  occur  in  the  valley  in  large  quantities,  and  of  excellent  quality.  At  the  time  of  our  visit 
the  Columbia  was  371  yards  wide  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Pisquouse;  at  the  camp  of  Sep 
tember  23d  its  width  was  329  yards,  the  surface  velocity  3.6  miles,  mean  velocity  2.9  miles  per 
hour ;  at  the  camp  of  September  24th  the  width  was  330  yards,  surface  velocity  3.45  miles  per  hour ; 
mean  velocity  2.94  miles  per  hour.  These  velocities  were  taken  at  points  where  the  strong  current 
is  near  the  shore;  we  had  no  means  of  reaching  the  middle  of  the  stream,  so  that  the  velocities 
as  given  may  be  a  little  less  than  the  true  velocity. 

The  beach  between  high  and  low-water  mark  is  composed  of  rounded  pebbles. 

From  the  vicinity  of  the  Yakima  Pass  I  saw  the  rough  mountains  in  which  the  Pisquouse  heads; 
from  the  divide  between  it  and  the  Yakima  we  saw  the  country  through  which  it  runs.  From  the 
inferences  thence  drawn,  and  the  accounts  of  the  Indians,  as  well  as  the  nature  of  the  valley  near 
its  mouth,  it  appears  certain  that  there  can  be  no  pass  at  its  head  for  a  road. 

The  next  stream  worthy  of  notice  is  the  En-te-at-kwu.  This  has  so  small  a  valley — a  mere 
ravine  in  fact — as  to  cut  off  all  access  to  the  dividing  ridge  in  that  direction. 

The  next  water-course  is  that  issuing  from  Lake  Chelan.  It  is  a  short  stream,  formed  of  a 
succession  of  cascades  and  rapids.  The  lake  itself  is  some  thirty  miles  long,  and  is  shut  in  by 
high  mountains,  which  leave  no  passage  along  its  margin  ;  the  mountains  at  its  head  will  be 
alluded  to  in  connexion  with  the  Mrthow  river.  Before  leaving  the  subject  of  this  lake,  I  will 
state  that  the  ascent  from  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  to  Lake  Chelan  could  not  be  accomplished 
by  a  railway  without  an  inclined  plane,  even  were  there  a  good  pass  up  its  valley. 


GENERAL    REPORT    ON    WESTERN    DIVISION.  197 

On  the  27th  September  we  reached  Fort  Okinakane,  and  encamped  on  the  Okinakarie  river, 
about  one  and  a  half  mile  from  the  fort,  and  not  far  above  the  site  of  Astor's  old  trading-house. 

The  fort  consists  of  three  log  buildings,  surrounded  by  a  stockade  in  the  form  of  a  square,  with 
block-houses  at  the  extremities  of  one  diagonal.  But  little  business  is  now  transacted  here.  It  is 
in  charge  of  Mr.  Lafleur,  the  "garrison"  consisting  of  two  Kanakas.  The  post  is  situated  on  the 
river  bank,  and  on  the  edge  of  the  plain  between  the  Okinakane  and  the  Columbia.  Neither  grass, 
nor  bushes,  nor  trees  are  to  be  found  around  the  fort — nothing  but  bare  sand  and  gravel;  it  is 
evidently  located  with  a  view  to  the  convenience  of  passing  boats,  and  with  no  reference  to  the 
comfort  of  its  unfortunate  occupants. 

Riding  with  Mr.  Lafleur  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain  behind  the  fort,  I  obtained  a  good 
view  of  the  Cascade  range.  The  mountains  came  down  to  the  Columbia  and  Okinakane,  cross 
ing  the  latter,  and  all  rough  and  sharp.  Mr.  Lafleur  informed  me  that  there  was  no  pass 
between  Mt.  Baker  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  trail  from  Okinakane  to  Langley.  This 
our  subsequent  examination  verified.  The  information  received  here  confirmed  me  in  my  pre 
vious  intention  of  examining  the  Methow  river,  for  they  told  me  there  was  a  good  foot  trail  lead 
ing  up  that  valley  and  over  to  the  sound. 

Leaving  some  of  our  most  fatigued  animals  and  many  of  our  loads  to  the  care  of  Mr.  Lafleur, 
we  left  the  camp  on  the  morning  of  the  28th.  On  the  30th  we  encamped  upon  the  Twitsp, 
the  south  fork  of  the  Methow.  I  was  by  this  time  quite  certain  that  this  route  would  not  answer 
for  a  railway,  but  determined  to  keep  on  upon  the  same  trail  myself  until  the  question  could  be 
fairly  settled.  Lieut.  Duncan  was  directed  to  return  to  the  forks  with  the  main  party,  and  to 
examine  the  main  stream  with  a  small  party,  following  it  as  far  as  it  was  practicable.  On  the 
31st  ]  followed  the  valley  of  the  Twitsp  about  four  miles  above  our  camp;  here  the  stream 
forked,  the  north  fork  rising  a  few  miles  farther  on  in  a  high,  bare  ridge  of  granitic  mountains ; 
the  south  fork,  Nahai-el-ix-on,  coming  down  a  narrow  and  precipitous  ravine.  Our  trail  led  up 
this  ravine. 

Before  proceeding  much  farther  the  valley  became  impassable  for  animals.  I  then  went  for 
ward  on  foot  until  there  was  no  longer  any  doubt  as  to  the  impracticability  of  the  route.  The 
barometrical  profile  will  indicate  the  results. 

The  trail  is  said  to  pass  from  this  ravine,  over  a  very  difficult  country,  to  the  stream  emptying 
into  the  head  of  Lake  Chelan,  then  to  cross  very  steep  and  lofty  mountains  at  the  head  of  that 
stream,  and  finally  to  reach  the  Skagitt  river  on  the  western  slope. 

The  results  of  Lieutenant  Duncan's  reconnaissance  were  equally  unfavorable.  On  the  4th 
of  October  we  reached  Fort  Okinakane,  returning  by  the  valley  of  the  Methow  to  its  mouth. 
During  both  our  visits  to  Fort  Okinakane  we  were  treated  with  the  greatest  kindness  by  Mr. 
Lafleur,  and  we  are  under  many  obligations  to  him  for  his  courtesy. 

On  the  5th  October  we  left  Fort  Okinakane,  followed  the  valley  of  the  Okinakane  river,  and 
on  the  9th  reached  our  most  northern  camp,  about  thirteen  miles  south  of  the  "Great  Lake,"  in 
latitude  49°  26' ;  the  weather,  unfortunately,  did  not  permit  observations  at  this  point,  so  that  the 
latitude  could  not  be  determined  with  exactness.  From  its  mouth  to  the  forks  the  Okinakane 
valley  is  generally  a  wide  one ;  in  a  few  places  it  so  much  contracted  as  to  force  the  trail  over 
spurs,  but  as  a  general  rule  we  passed  over  wide  terraces.  The  soil  is  light,  the  grass  generally 
good,  and  no  timber  in  the  valley.  There  is  a  fall  of  inconsiderable  height  thirty  miles  above 
the  mouth ;  quite  a  number  of  rapids  occur,  but  they  are  seldom  bad.  No  stream  of  any  conse 
quence  enters  the  Okinakane  from  either  side  below  the  forks  ;  so  that  there  is  no  possibility  of 
there  being  any  pass  through  the  mountains  between  the  Methow  and  the  Millakitekwu,  (the 
west  fork,)  especially  as  the  mountains  become  very  high  and  rugged  a  short  distance  back 
from  the  valley. 

The  Millakitekwu  may  be  said  to  have  no  valley  ;  for  it  runs  through  an  immense  ravine,  with 
a  canon  of  great  depth  bounding  the  bed  of  the  stream.  Its  nature  is  such  as  to  render  it 


198  GENERAL    REPORT   ON    WESTERN    DIVISION. 

impracticable  for  a  road  of  any  kind.  The  descent  of  this  stream  is  rapid  ;  at  five  miles  from 
the  mouth  is  a  pretty  fall  of  probably  ten  feet :  as  \ve  were  obliged  to  view  it  from  an  elevation 
of  some  three  hundred  feet,  we  could  form  no  correct  estimate  of  its  height.  There  are  no  trees 
in  this  ravine ;  its  soil  is  of  sand  and  gravel. 

The  valley  of  the  Sahtlilkwu  (east  iork)  is  generally  a  broad  one,  but  is  almost  entirely  filled 
with  lakes  and  marshes.  As  far  as  the  Great  lake  it  presents  a  route  practicable  from  the 
Columbia,  with  difficulties  at  some  points  ;  as  it  leads  to  nothing,  and  communicates  with  no 
pass  to  Frazer's  river,  it  is  not  a  subject  for  consideration.  The  Hudson's  Bay  trail  from  the 
Okinakane  to  Fort  Langley  leaves  the  Sahtlilkwu  a  short  distance  above  our  camp  of  the  8th, 
and  after  crossing  a  mountain  ridge  enters  the  valley  of  the  Millakitekwu,  follows  that  for  a 
considerable  distance,  and  then  crosses  the  mountain  into  the  valley  of  Frazer's  river.  It  is 
represented  by  all  who  have  travelled  it  as  an  execrable  and  just  practicable  trail,  as  following 
no  pass,  but  crossing  directly  over  the  mountains. 

On  the  tenth  1  left  the  main  party  in  camp,  and  with  all  of  the  officers  and  two  of  the  gentle 
men  rode  to  the  Great  lake,  returning  the  same  day. 

Upon  an  attentive  consideration  of  the  more  important  points  of  what  has  already  been  said, 
I  think  it  will  be  very  evident  that  there  is  but  one  pass  through  the  Cascade  range,  from  the 
Columbia  to  the  northern  boundary — that  of  the  main  Yakima — that  is  at  all  practicable  for  a 
railway  ;  nor  am  I  aware  of  any  reason  for  believing  any  to  exist  between  that  boundary  and 
Thompson's  river. 

In  the  event  of  any  future  surveys  of  the  Cascade  range  for  railway  purposes,  the  whole  force 
may  safely  be  thrown  upon  the  main  Yakima  Pass  and  that  of  the  Columbia.  I  now  considered 
the  most  important  part  of  my  duty  performed,  having  carried  the  reconnaissance  of  the  Cascade 
range  somewhat  into  British  territory.  The  winter  was  now  close  at  hand,  the  weather 
becoming  cold,  and  the  snow  increasing  rapidly  in  the  mountains.  Our  animals  showed  unmis 
takable  signs  of  the  effects  of  their  very  difficult  service,  and  the  pass  of  the  Columbia  was  still 
to  be  examined.  As  nothing  but  geographical  information  could  now  be  gained  by  a  longer  delay 
in  the  mountains,  I  determined  to  leave  the  range  and  move  for  Colville.  The  route  selected 
was  that  from  the  forks  of  the  Okinakane  to  the  head  of  Ne-hoi-al-pit-kwu,  or  Colville  river,  and 
down  that  stream  to  the  Columbia ;  a  portion  of  the  country  known  only  to  the  employes  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company.  I  hoped  on  my  arrival  at  Colville  to  receive  some  intelligence  of  the 
progress  of  your  party,  or  even  to  meet  you  in  person  by  a  lucky  chance. 

It  was  also  my  determination,  if  nothing  had  occurred  making  it  necessary  for  me  to  keep 
on  to  the  Rocky  mountains  with  the  whole  or  a  portion  of  my  party,  to  make  an  examination  of 
the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Grand  Coulee,  the  approaches  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima,  &c., 
and  finally  to  return  to  Vancouver  by  the  trail  down  the  Columbia  valley. 

On  the  llth  we  turned  back ;  left  the  Okinakane  on  the  12th  at  the  forks ;  reached  the  head  of 
one  branch  of  the  Ne-hoi-al-pit-kwu  on  the  13th,  and  arrived  opposite  Colville  on  the  17th.  This 
trail  is  impracticable  for  a  railway,  although  a  wagon  road  could  be  carried  over  it,  with  con 
siderable  difficulty,  at  some  points.  The  soil  in  this  district  was  the  best  we  saw.  Fine  larch  trees 
abound. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  in  camp  opposite  Colville,  Mr.  Angus  Macdonald,  the  gentleman  in 
charge  of  the  post,  came  over  to  our  camp,  and  kindly  undertook  to  provide  the  canoes  neces 
sary  for  crossing  our  baggage  next  day. 

By  midday  of  the  18th  all  our  stores  and  baggage  were  safely  landed  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
river,  and  all  of  our  animals  had  crossed  in  safety.  Three  small  canoes,  two  of  them  of  birch 
bark,  were  the  only  ones  available.  We  encamped  at  an  excellent  place  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  fort.  At  the  place  where  our  animals  swam  the  river,  the  current  is  very  rapid  and  the 
river  very  deep;  it  is  a  good  crossing  for  animals  passing  from  the  right  bank  to  the  left,  but  very 
dangerous  for  any  crossing  in  the  opposite  direction.  The  valley  of  the  Columbia  is  here  well 


GENERAL    REPORT    ON    WESTERN    DIVISION.  109 

limbered  with  yellow  pine,  and  is  by  no  means  so  rough  and  forbidding  as  near  Fort  Okinakane. 
The  fort  is  situated  somewhat  back  from  the  river  bunk,  in  a  pocket  or  widening  of  the  valley. 
Of  all  the  Hudson's  Bay  posts  in  this  Territory,  Fort  Colville  stands  next  to  Vancouver  in  size  and 
importance.  The  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  Colville  is  better  than  it  generally  is  throughout  the 
Territory  ;  but  it  is  said  to  be  soon  exhausted.  Not  a  particle  of  information  had  been  received 
at  Colville  in  regard  to  any  of  your  parties.  When  I  had  about  made  up  my  mind  to  push  for  St. 
Mary's  with  two  or  three  men,  I  was  agreeably  surprised  by  your  arrival  on  the  18th.  Every 
possible  kindness  was  extended  to  my  party  by  Mr.  Macdonald.  Coming  thus  under  your 
immediate  orders,  I  of  course  abandoned  my  original  intention  as  to  the  completion  of  the  expedi 
tion,  and  merely  carried  out  your  instructions. 

I  left  Colville  on  the  22d,  and  reached  a  camp  on  a  small  branch  of  the  Spokane  on  the  26th. 
As  you  remember,  we  were  here  joined  on  the  28th  by  Lieutenant  Donelson,  with  the  main 
party  of  the  eastern  division  of  the  survey. 

Leaving  this  camp  on  the  30th,  I  crossed  Lewis'  fork  on  the  4th  November,  having  followed 
the  same  trail  as  that  taken  by  Lieutenant  Donelson  up  to  this  point.  The  crossing  was  effected 
without  the  loss  of  either  animals  or  baggage — in  perfect  safety.  From  this  crossing  I  took  a 
different  trail  to  Wallah-Wallah  from  that  followed  by  Lieutenant.  Donelson;  we  passed  by  Dr. 
Whitman's  old  mission.  This  trail,  though  somewhat  longer  than  Lieutenant  Donelson's,  is  a 
much  better  one;  the  first  march  to  water  is  much  shorter.  We  reached  Wallah- Wallah  on  the 
7th,  and  left  next  day  for  the  Dalles,  following  the  river  trail  as  far  as  the  Des  Chutes  crossing. 
Reached  Fort  Dalles  on  the  15th  November. 

The  description  of  the  country  from  Fort  Colville  to  the  Dalles  is  fully  given  in  Lieutenant 
Duncan's  report,  and  will  doubtless  be  found  in  your  own  report  as  well  as  that  of  Lieutenant 
Donelson  ;  and  as  it  is  by  no  means  an  unexplored  country,  I  have  not  thought  it  necessary  to 
touch  upon  the  subject.  Upon  arriving  at  the  Dalles,  my  animals  were  too  much  worn  out  to  be 
able  to  carry  loads  down  the  river  trail  at  that  advanced  state  of  the  season;  the  rains  had  already 
set  in  at  Vancouver:  for  these  and  other  reasons  I  determined  to  send  the  animals  down  without 
loads,  and  to  take  water  transportation  for  the  party. 

The  animals  started  on  the  17th;  the  party  in  the  small  steamer  Allen  on  the  same  day.  We 
reached  the  Cascades  that  evening,  and  arrived  at  Fort  Vancouver  late  in  the  night  of  the  18th 
November,  having  come  down  from  the  Cascades  in  open  boats.  It  rained  heavily  during  the 
whole  of  our  passage.  The  animals  reached  Vancouver  in  six  days  from  Fort  Dalles.  Two 
were  drowned  in  crossing  a  creek  not  far  from  Vancouver;  their  condition  on  their  arrival  was 
such  as  to  prove  that  they  could  not  have  accomplished  the  trip  with  loads.  In  my  railway 
report  will  be  found  my  opinion  of  the  Columbia  River  Pass.  At  Vancouver  my  party  was 
broken  up,  and  the  portion  required  for  office  work  was  sent  to  Olympia. 

Being  greatly  delayed  in  making  arrangements  necessary  for  the  disposition  of  my  own  and 
other  parties,  it  was  only  on  the  16th  December  that  I  arrived  at  Olympia,  by  way  of  the 
Cowlitz.  On  the  23d  I  left  Olympia,  with  Mr.  Minter  and  a  small  party,  for  Steilacoom,  in  a 
canoe.  My  intention  was  to  endeavor  to  complete  the  barometrical  profile  of  the  main  Yakima 
Pass,  and  examine  the  approaches  on  this  side.  At  Steilacoom  I  found  it  impossible  to  make 
any  arrangements  for  land  transportation — the  Indians  representing  the  road  impracticable  for 
animals  at  that  season;  I  therefore  determined  to  proceed  by  water  to  the  falls  of  the  Snoqualme, 
and  thence  as  far  as  it  might  seem  advisable  on  foot.  I  left  Steilacoom  on  the  29th  with  two 
canoes,  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Sinahomish  on  the  1st  January,  and  arrived  within  a  mile  of 
the  Snoqualme  Falls  on  the  7th  January.  We  proceeded  but  a  few  miles  above  the  falls  on 
foot;  the  trail  was  entirely  obliterated ;  no  Indian  could  be  induced  to  accompany  me  to  the 
pass  as  a  guide.  The  barometer  with  which  I  was  furnished  had  proved  entirely  worthless;  and 
from  the  information  obtained,  there  seemed  to  be  no  possibility  of  proceeding  farther  than  Lake 
Nook-noo;  I  therefore  concluded  that  no  object  would  be  attained  by  keeping  on,  at  all  com- 


200  GENERAL    REPORT    ON    WESTERN    DIVISION. 

mensurate  with  the  difficulty  of  the  undertaking,  and  determined  to  retrace  my  steps.  The 
Indians  represented  the  snow  to  be  up  to  the  arm-pits  at  the  Nook-noo,  and  as  increasing  thence 
to  the  pass,  at  the  summit  of  which  it  would  be  found  to  be  about  twenty-five  feet  in  depth.  Mr. 
Tinkham  found  but  seven  feet  at  the  summit  on  the  21st  of  January;  yet  I  am  of  the  opinion 
that  in  the  most  unfavorable  portions  of  ordinary  winters  the  statement  of  the  Indians  will  be 
found  to  be  quite  near  the  truth ;  at  all  events,  I  do  not  think  that  any  important  conclusion  should 
be  based  on  the  results  of  Mr.  Tinkham's  trip ;  they  ought  to  be  verified  later  in  the  year,  and,  if 
possible,  during  a  winter  not  so  unusually  dry  as  this  was  up  to  the  time  of  Mr.  Tinkham's 
passage.  For  a  winter  station,  with  the  object  of  examining  the  depth  of  snow,  the  prairie  at 
the  foot  of  the  Nook-noo  falls  would  be  a  proper  position. 

The  valley  of  the  Sinahomish  and  Snoqualme  is  of  pure  sand,  covered  with  an  inch  or  two  of 
decomposed  vegetable  matter,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  prairie  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Snoqualme,  some  ten  miles  below,  and  a  larger  one  about  two  miles  above  the  falls. 

There  may  be  more  of  these  small  prairies  of  which  I  heard  nothing.  Some  are  said  to  exist 
on  the  Skywhamish.  The  bluffs  of  the  stream  are  generally  of  sand,  clay,  and  gravel;  occasionally 
of  conglomerate  and  argillaceous  rock. 

If  there  is  any  coal  near  the  Sinahomish  it  will  probably  be  found  at  some  distance  from  the 
river,  in  a  bluff  about  twelve  miles  from  the  mouth.  The  timber  in  the  valley  is  generally  poor; 
it  principally  consists  of  cotton- wood,  maple,  and  alder:  the  fir  and  cedar  are  generally  very 
indiffen  nt ;  in  some  small  tracts  they  are  good.  The  bottom  is  usually  wide,  flat,  and  subject 
to  overflow.  There  are  extensive  cranberry  swamps  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sinahomish.  This 
stream  has  three  outlets,  and  has  formed  a  low,  sandy  delta.  The  Sinahomish  is  navigable  for 
small  steamers  for  about  twelve  miles  from  its  mouth;  it  forks  about  eighteen  miles  from  the 
mouth,  the  Skywhamish  being  rather  the  larger  fork  of  the  two.  Below  the  forks  the  average 
width  of  the  Sinahomish  is  some  fifty  yards.  The  Snoqualme  is  much  obstructed  by  rapids,  which 
increase  in  number  and  strength  as  the  falls  are  approached.  I  estimated  the  height  of  the  falls  at 
from  one  hundred  and  thirty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet ;  they  are  exceedingly  beautiful.  The 
ledge  over  which  the  river  passes  at  this  point  is  of  conglomerate.  Similar  falls  exist  at  the 
foot  of  Lake  Nook-noo,  on  the  Skywhamish,  the  Stoluquamish,  and  Skagitt.  On  the  12th  we 
encamped  on  the  head  of  MacDonough's  island,  intending  to  proceed  to  Bellingham  bay ;  but 
during  that  night  six  inches  of  snow  fell,  and  during  the  next  day  so  violent  a  gale  blew  from  the 
north  that  our  canoes  could  not  proceed.  On  the  14th  we  turned  back,  and  reached  Olympia  on 
the  21st  of  January.  During  this  trip  the  weather  was  intensely  cold,  the  thermometer  being  as 
low  as  zero ;  we  endured  some  discomfort  from  snow,  cold  rains,  and  sleet. 

Before  I  left  Vancouver  for  Olympia,  Mr.  Gibbs  went  to  Astoria  with  the  intention  of  attempting 
to  pass  from  there,  via  Shoalwaterbay  and  the  Willopah  river,  direct  1o  Olympia.  The  trail  being 
entirely  overgrown  by  vine  maple,  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  get  through  at  that  season  of  the 
year  with  the  provisions  he  was  obliged  to  carry;  it  became  necessary  for  him  to  turn  back  before 
he  reached  the  head  of  the  Willopah.  His  report  on  the  subject  will  give  the  detailed  informa 
tion  he  obtained  with  regard  to  that  section  of  the  country.  I  will  merely  state  that  the  valley 
of  the  Willopah  is  about  thirty  miles  long,  by  some  ten  or  twelve  in  breadth ;  it  is  thickly  over 
grown  with  vine  maple,  and  occasional  large  trees ;  the  soil  is  rich,  though  somewhat  light.  On 
the  Chehalis  are  a  number  of  prairies,  many  of  good  soil,  especially  on  the  south  fork.  The  whole 
country  is,  with  the  exception  of  these  prairies,  densely  overgrown  with  fir,  cedar,  and  spruce. 
There  are  many  mountain  ridges,  some  of  which  are  quite  extensive.  The  south  fork  of  the 
Chehalis  and  Gray's  river  head  in  a  quite  high  peak. 

In  my  railroad  report  of  February  8th,  I  gave  my  reasons  for  considering  Seattle  as  the  best 
terminus  for  a  railway  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  sound.  In  any  future  examinations  it  would 
be  advantageous  to  examine  a  line  leading  to  Port  Discovery.  The  advantages  of  that  harbor, 


GENERAL   REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION.  201 

both  as  to  its  situation   and  its  facilities  for  perfect  defence,  by  permanent  works,  entitle  it  to 
consideration.     Il  seems  to  be  fully  adapted  to  the  purpose  of  a  great  naval  establishment. 

The  country  through  which  we  passed  to  the  east  of  the  Cascade  range  may  be  described  as 
generally  barren  and  unfit  for  agriculture,  and  poor  for  grazing  purposes.  There  are  two  small 
tnicls  which  are  exceptions  to  this  rule  ;  but  I  know  of  none  which  would  be  considered  good  in 
our  western  States.  The  yellow  pine  on  the  slopes  of  the  mountains  may  be  carried  down  the 
principal  streams  into  the  Columbia,  and  thence  rafted  or  "  run"  to  the  head  of  navigation;  the 
larch,  between  the  Okinakane  and  Colville,  can  lie  hauled  to  the  streams  of  the  same  names,  and 
rafted  to  the  Columbia  ;  the  building-stones  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Pisquouse  will  some  day  be 
available  ibr  the  market ;  but  labor  must  become  more  cheap  and  abundant,  capital  more  plenty, 
before  these  can  become  important  interests.  The  Indians  are  harmless  and  peaceable;  with  the 
exception  of  the  Yakimas,  they  are  very  poor.  Their  Ibod  consists  of  salmon,  berries,  and 
potatoes.  The  entire  absence  of  game  renders  it  difficult  ibr  them  to  obtain  good  clothing;  during 
the  whole  trip  I  did  riot  see  a  single  deer,  elk,  or  bear — nothing  larger  than  a  wolf.  Wolves, 
badgers,  squirrels,  and  a  few  gray  marmots,  were  the  only  quadrupeds.  The  blue  and  ruffled 
grouse,  prairie  chicken,  and  sage-lbwl,  abounded.  To  the  west  of  the  mountains  the  country  is 
covered  with  dense  fir  timber,  interspersed  with  prairies  or  lakes.  The  only  good  land  I  have 
seen  is  in  the  valleys  of  the  Columbia  and  Cowlitz,  and  of  some  of  that  string  of  prairies  which 
skirt  the  mountains  from  the  Columbia  at  least  as  far  as  the  Skywhamish.  The  Willopah  and 
Chehalis  have  also  good  land  upon  them.  The  prairies  near  the  sound  are  uniformly  of  gravel, 
barren  and  worthless.  Lumber  and  the  fisheries  must  constitute  the  great  interests  of  this  portion 
of  the  Territory. 

The  Indian  names  of  these  streams,  lakes,  prairies,  &c.,  were  carefully  obtained  bv  Mr.  Gibbs 
during  the  trip.  They  have  been  adopted  in  the  map  and  the  reports  as  preferable  to  any 
names  we  could  give  them;  partly  for  the  purpose  of  endeavoring  to  perpetuate  them,  and  partly 
for  the  reason  that  they  will  be  of  service  to  persons  travelling  through  the  country. 

During  the  exploration  the  astronomical  observations  were  principally  taken  by  Lieutenant 
Duncan;  they  are  as  accurate  as  the  instruments  at  our  disposal  would  permit.  The  only  astro 
nomical  phenomenon  worthy  of  note  was  the  existence  of  a  comet,  seen  from  Wenass,  on  the  21st, 
22d,  and  23d  of  August.  It  was  visible  but  for  a  short  time  after  dark,  and  was  so  low  that  the 
altitude  could  not  betaken.  The  tail  was  53'  10"  in  length.  At  8h.  56m.  59s.  (mean  time) 
on  the  21st,  its  bearing  by  compass  was  north  75°  west,  the  variation  of  the  needle  being  17°  30'; 
its  observed  distance  from  Ursa;  Majores  at  9/*.  6m.  6.7s.  (mean  time)  was  67°  54'  35".  On  the 
22d  its  bearing  by  compass  at  S/t.  3m.  09.5s.  (mean  time)  was  north  84°  west,  variation  of  the 
needle  as  before  ;  its  distance  from  Jupiter  at  8h.  l'3)n.  17s.  was  9°  41'  35";  from  Arcturus  at 
8h.  18m.  25.9s.,  was  36°  29'  05". 

For  geographical  purposes  but  little  additional  information  is  needed  concerning  the  eastern  slope 
of  the  mountains.  A  somewhat  closer  examination  of  the  Pisquouse,  Chelan  and  Millekitekwu, 
as  well  as  astronomical  observations  with  better  instruments  than  were  at  my  disposal,  would  be 
interesting.  With  regard  to  the  western  slope,  much  additional  information  is  still  desirable  as 
to  the  courses  of  the  streams,  of  which  but  little  is  known.  The  accompanying  map  will  be 
found  more  accurate  than  any  which  has  preceded  it.  It  is  believed  that  no  important  stream 
on  the  western  slope  is  omitted;  when  none  of  the  party  have  crossed  or  followed  them,  they 
are  given  from  the  best  Indian  and  other  information.  From  Bellingham  bay  and  the  vicinity  of 
MacDonough's  island  we  saw  the  direction  of  many  of  these  valleys,  and  learned  where  they 
headed,  with  reference  to  streams  on  the  eastern  slope,  the  number  and  position  of  the  branches, 
&c.;  the  streams  as  given  will  be  found,  I  think,  not  to  differ  very  materially  from  the  truth.  The 
map  will,  at  least,  serve  as  a  basis  of  operations  for  any  future  survey.  In  the  event  of  any  de 
tailed  examination  of  the  country  in  the  future,  the  work  should  be  performed  by  several  very 
small  parties,  each  the  smallest  in  number  that  can  use  the  necessary  instruments.  On  the  east- 
26/ 


202  GENERAL    REPORT    ON    WESTERN    DIVISION. 

ern  side  they  should  be  provided  with  good  mules,  but  do  most  of  the  mountain  work  on  foot. 
The  only  supplies  to  be  had  in  the  country  are  salmon,  berries,  and  potatoes.  There  is  no  dan 
ger  to  be  apprehended  from  the  Indians,  however  small  the  party  may  be.  On  the  western  side 
the  exploration  should  be  made  by  ascending  the  rivers  in  canoes,  examining  the  country  at  the 
heads  of  and  between  the  streams  on  foot.  Some  little  game  may  be  depended  upon  on  this  side. 
More  caution  will  here  be  required  among  the  northern  Indians,  although  a  small  party  may 
safely  go  among  them.  An  examination  of  the  Olympus  range,  and  the  lower  Chehalis,  would 
also  be  very  desirable  to  develop  the  resources  of  the  country,  as  well  as  for  geographical  informa 
tion.  That  survev  also  should  be  made  in  canoes  and  on  foot ;  rather  larger  parties  would  here  be 
necessary — about  ten  men  in  each.  In  submitting  the  accompanying  sub-reports,  mentioned  in 
the  beginning  of  this,  I  would  state  that  they  are  necessary  to  a.  full  understanding  of  my  own. 
I  have  endeavored  to  avoid  all  unnecessary  detail,  leaving  to  those  gentlemen  the  full  explanation  of 
their  respective  provinces.  I  am  glad  to  state  that  they  have  done  such  full  justice  to  their  sub 
jects  that  no  word  of  commendation  from  me  is  necessary;  their  reports  are  of  more  interest 
than  my  own,  and  can  safely  be  left  to  stand  the  test  of  their  own  merits.  I  cannot,  however, 
be  equally  silent  with  regard  to  their  conduct  while  associated  with  me  in  the  field.  Their  duty 
was  not  only  performed  with  intelligence,  but  with  alacrity  and  cheerfulness.  Lieutenant  Dun 
can  possesses  the  qualities  to  conduct  any  expedition  like  this.  Lieutenant  Hodges  was  an  ener 
getic  and  systematic  quartermaster;  he  conducted  his  difficult  march  to  Steilacoom  in  the  most 
satisfactory  manner.  Lieutenant  Mowry  performed  his  duty  excellently,  and  left  nothing  of  it, 
that  I  desired,  undone.  1  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  no  one  could  have  been  found  who 
could  have  made  so  complete  and  excellent  a  report  upon  Indian  matters  as  that  of  Mr.  Gibbs. 
His  report  upon  the  geology  will  show  the  care  with  which  he  pursued  this  portion  of  his  duty; 
in  addition  to  this,  he  has  more  than  once  conducted  important  reconnaissances  with  great  benefit 
to  the  survey.  The  courses  and  distances,  so  important  to  the  correctness  of  the  map,  and  so 
difficult  to  be  obtained  in  the  country  we  traversed,  were  taken  by  Mr.  Minter  with  a  care  and 
judgment  that  left  nothing  to  be  desired ;  on  other  points,  also,  his  good  judgment  was  of  great 
assistance. 

Dr.  Cooper  was  unfortunate  in  having  a  field  so  destitute  of  animated  beings  as  was  the  scene  of 
our  operations;  but,  such  as  it  was,  he  used  it  to  the  best  advantage.  We  were  fortunate  in  hav 
ing  but  few  cases  of  sickness.  In  those  that  did  occur,  the  Doctor  showed  himself  to  be  perfectly 
familiar  with  his  profession.  The  non-commissioned  officers  and  men  composing  the  escort  uni 
formly  conducted  themselves  in  a  manner  to  do  credit  to  themselves  and  to  their  regiment.  It 
was  with  great  regret  that  I  parted  with  them  at  Wenass. 

The  civil  employes  were  almost  all  very  excellent  men,  who  understood  and  performed  their 
duty  well.  When  we  were  fairly  started,  there  was  no  trouble  among  them.  As  to  those  re 
tained  upon  the  reduction  of  the  party,  there  was  scarcely  one  who  was  not  all  that  could  be 
desired  in  his  position.  Had  I  the  same  duty  to  perform  again,  but  few  alterations  would  be 
made  in  the  party,  so  well  and  cheerfully  did  they  do  all  that  was  required.  I  must  express  my 
appreciation  of  their  excellent  and  subordinate  conduct,  and  of  my  good  fortune  in  having  so  ex 
cellent  a  party. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

GEO.  B.  McCLELLAN, 
Lieutenant  of  Engineers,  and  Brevet  Captain,  U.  S.  A., 

Commanding  Western  Division  of  Survey. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Exploration  and  Survey. 


INSTRUCTIONS. — TOPOGRAPHICAL   REPORT   ON   WESTERN    DIVISION.  203 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  May  9,  1853. 

SIR:  On  your  arrival  at  San  Francisco,  you  will  ascertain  from  the  proper  sources  the  exact 
state  of  affairs  with  reference  to  the  supplies  and  personnel  of  your  command.  Before  leaving 
there  for  the  Columbia  river,  you  will  make  all  the  arrangements  necessary  to  carry  out  the  gen 
eral  instructions  for  the  conduct  of  the  expedition. 

Having  arrived  at  Astoria,  you  will  at  once  proceed  to  organize  your  command  at  such  point, 
either  in  Oregon  or  Washington  Territory,  as  you  may  decide  to  be  the  best.  You  will  employ 
such  guides,  hunters,  and  muleteers  as  you  may  find  necessary,  as  well  as  the  civil  assistants 
indispensable  to  the  performance  of  the  required  duties.  With  regard  to  these,  and  all  other 
points  involving  expenditure,  you  will  be  careful  to  observe  the  strictest  economy  compatible  with 
the  success  of  the  expedition.  The  first  and  most  important  point  to  which  your  attention  is  to  be 
directed  will  be  the  exploration  of  the  Cascade  mountains.  You  will  thoroughly  explore  this 
range  from  the  Columbia  river  to  the  forty-ninth  parallel  of  north  latitude,  making  detailed  exam 
inations  of  the  passes,  and  obtaining  full  information  in  relation  to  the  range  in  general.  Pend 
ing  this  examination  you  will  endeavor  to  examine  the  line  of  the  proposed  rodd  from  Wallah- 
Wallah  to  Steilacoom,  and  to  start  its  construction.  Having  completed  the  survey  of  the  Cascade 
range,  you  will  at  once  proceed  eastward  as  far  as  the  Rocky  mountains,  unless  you  meet, 
before  reaching  that  range,  the  main  party  coming  from  the  east.  In  selecting  your  route,  you 
will  start  from  the  most  practicable  pass  in  the  Cascade  range,  and  follow  what  you  regard  as 
the  most  promising  line  for  a  practicable  road.  From  the  nature  of  the  case  it  is  impossible  for 
me  to  give  you  detailed  instructions  ;  but  I  have,  in  the  course  of  a  number  of  conversations,  fully 
explained  to  you  the  objects  of  the  expedition,  my  own  probable  operations,  and  my  views. 

I  have,  therefore,  to  direct  you  to  keep  constantly  in  your  mind  the  tenor  of  these  conversations, 
and  the  written  general  instructions.  You  will  use  your  own  judgment  as  to  the  manner  of 
carrying  them  out  in  the  most  rapid  and  effectual  manner. 

Whenever  you  meet  with  the  main  party  from  the  east,  or  any  portion  of  it,  you  will  at  once 
assume  the  command,  (in  my  absence,)  and  give  whatever  orders  may  be  necessary,  in  your 
opinion,  to  carry  out  the  objects  of  the  expedition.  Funds  will  be  placed  at  your  disposal  to 
meet  your  expenses. 

Enclosed  are  the  general  and  detailed  instructions  of  the  expedition,  with  an  explanatory 
memorandum. 

Yours,  &c., 

ISAAC   I.  STEVENS. 

Brevet  Capt.  G.  B.  MCCLELLAN, 

Corps  of  Engineers. 


8.  TOPOGRAPHICAL  REPORT  OF  LIEUTENANT  j.  K.  DUNCAN,  u.  s.  A.,  TOPOGRAPHER  OF  THE  WEST 
ERN  DIVISION. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

February  21,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit,  together  with  an  accompanying  map,  the  following  report 
on  the  topography  and  general  character  of  the  country  along  the  route  pursued  by  the  party 
under  }-our  command  in  an  exploration  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  during  the  months  of  July 
August,  September,  October,  and  November,  1853,Wiz  : 

A  route  northeasterly  from  Fort  Vancouver,  on  the  Columbia,  to  the  Cathlapoot'l  river; 
thence,  eastward  along  the  banks  of  the  Cathlapoot'l  and  across  the  ranges  of  the  Cascade 
mountains,  south  of  Mount  St.  Helens  and  Adams,  to  the  open  country  beyond;  thence,  turning 
Mount  Adams  oil  the  east,  northerly  to  Ketetas,  a  point  on  the  Yakima  above  where  it  receives 


204  TOPOGRAPHICAL   REPORT    ON   WESTERN    DIVISION. 

the  waters  of  its  principal  tributaries,  Atahnam,  Nahchess,  &c.,  the  country  along  the  Yakimn 
river  from  its  sources  in  the  mountains  to  its  junction  with  the  Columbia.  From  Ketetas  north 
erly  to  the  mouth  of  the  Pisquouse  or  Wenatshapam  ;  thence,  up  the  Columbia  to  Fort 
Okinakane,  the  country  on  the  Methow  river  from  its  head  to  its  mouth,  the  country  along  the 
Okinakane  river  from  its  junction  with  the  Columbia  to  the  lakes  beyond  the  forty-ninth  parallel; 
thence,  leaving  the  Okinakane  at  its  forks,  eastward  across  the  country  to  the  Nehoialpit  river; 
thence,  down  this  river  to  its  mouth,  crossing  the  Columbia  at  Fort  Colville.  From  Fort  Colville 
to  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  via  the  valleys  of  the  Slawntehus,  Chemakane,  Cherahna,  and  Wallah- 
Wallah  rivers,  crossing  the  Spokane  river  a  few  miles  below  the  forks  or  site  of  the  old  Spokane 
house,  and  the  Saptin  or  Lewis'  fork  of  the  Columbia  at  the  mouth  of  the  Peluse;  thence,  down 
the  south  bank  of  the  Columbia  to  the  Dalles,  and  from  the  Dalles  down  the  Columbia  river 
by  water  to  Fort  Vancouver. 

The  country  gradually  rises  back  of  Vancouver  into  a  light  range  of  hills  running  parallel 
to  Columbia  river,  and  generally  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  it.  Two  miles  from  Vancouver 
the  trail  crosses  a  brook  twenty  feet  wide,  which  empties  into  a  lake  three  miles  below  that 
place;  the  lake  communicating  with  the  Columbia  ten  miles  below.  From  this  stream  the  coun 
try  along  the  trail  breaks  into  small  openings  or  plains  having  no  timber  on  them.  They 
vary  from  a  half  to  several  miles  in  extent,  are  very  level,  as  well  as  the  adjacent  country, 
and  are  separated  from  each  other  by  narrow  strips  of  woods.  Kolsas,  the  largest  of  these 
plains,  about  seven  miles  from  Vancouver,  is  six  or  seven  mile?  long,  and  three  or  four  in  breadth, 
and  connects  on  the  south  with  a  swampy  arm  of  Camas  plain,  which  stretches  off  to  the  east 
ward,  in  which  direction  there  is  a  large  tract  of  the  same  character  of  country  lying  along  Mill 
creek,  and  running  down  towards  the  Columbia.  From  Kolsas  the  trail  bears  to  the  northeast 
for  six  miles  to  a  plain  called  Simsik,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  long.  The  country  between 
Vancouver  and  Simsik  is  similar  in  character — heavily  timbered  with  fir,  spruce,  and  a  dense 
undergrowth  of  maple  and  hazel  bushes.  The  soil  is  sandy  and  gravelly,  especially  the  open 
plains  ;  the  soil  in  the  woods  between  Kolsas  and  Simsik  is  the  best.  The  country  up  to 
Simsik  is  quite  level;  leaving  Simsik  east  of  north  the  country  becomes  hilly  and  broken  along 
the  trail,  the  hills  becoming  higher  and  more  rocky  as  we  approach  the  Cathlapoot'l  river. 
Between  these  points  the  trail  crosses  several  branches  of  the  Cathlapoot'l.  Six  miles  from 
Simsik  there  is  a  small  rapid  brook  fifteen  feet  wide;  two  miles  farther  on  there  is  another,  thirty 
feet  wide  and  two  deep;  and  a  third,  the  Yahkohtl,  eight  miles  beyond,  about  forty  feet  wide 
and  two  and  a  half  deep.  The  bottoms  of  these  streams  are  rocky,  and  that  of  the  Yahkohtl 
very  stony ;  the  currents  rapid.  They  run  among  high  hills,  and  have  no  valleys.  They  unite 
a  short  distance  below  the  lords,  the  main  stream  uniting  with  the  Cathlapoot'l  tour  miles  from 
its  junction  with  the  Columbia.  Eleven  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Yahkohtl  the  trail  crosses 
the  Chalacha.  This  river  is  thirty-five  feet  wide,  ford  good.  It  receives  two  branches  a  short 
distance  below  the  ford — the  first  from  the  southeast,  a  bold  rapid  brook  twenty  feet  wide;  and 
the  other  a  small  rivulet  coming  in  from  the  other  side  and  running  nearly  parallel  to  the  Chalacha, 
and  one  and  a  half  or  two  miles  from  it.  Thirteen  miles  from  Simsik  is  Mankas  Plain,  surrounded 
by  hills,  and  more  low  and  swampy  than  the  other  plains  met  with.  Six  miles  beyond  the  Yah 
kohtl  river  is  the  Yahkohtl  Plain,  a  high,  sandy,  undulating  plain,  about  three  miles  long.  Five 
and  a  half  miles  beyond  this  plain  occurs  the  Chalacha  Plain,  lying  between  the  Chalacha  river  and 
the  parallel  rivulet  before  spoken  of.  The  country  between  Mankas  and  Simsik  is  simply  hilly; 
hills  higher  near  the  latter  place.  Between  Mankas  and  the  Yahkohtl  river  there  are  two  sharp 
spurs  of  the  Cascades,  differing  from  the  oth^hills  by  being  higher  and  rocky.  They  stretch  oft' 
to  the  east  and  west,  increasing  in  altitude  towards  the  east,  but  falling  off" in  the  opposite  direction. 
Between  the  Yahkohtl  and  Chalacha  rivers  the  country  is  high  and  hilly,  and,  in  places,  much 
broken.  There  is  a  high  spur  running  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Chalacha  river,  and  the  plain  o^ 
this  name  is  entirely  surrounded  by  high  ridges  and  rocky  peaks.  An  almost  perfectly  symmetrical 


TOPOGRAPHICAL   REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION.  205 

peak  is  seen  towards  the  northeast  and  at  the  end  of  the  plain  in  that  direction.  Between  Chalacha 
and  the  Cathlapoot'l  is  a  high  spur  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  which  runs  along  the  left  bank  of  that 
river.  The  ascent  to  it  is  gradual,  and  by  successive  hills  and  long  slopes,  but  the  descent  is  rocky 
and  abrupt,  and  dangerous  for  loaded  animals.  The  Cathlapoot'l  is  a  very  bold,  rapid  river,  run 
ning  about  twenty-five  yards  in  its  bed,  but,  judging  from  the  sand  and  shingle  on  its  banks,  it 
evidently  becomes  over  two  hundred  yards  wide  at  the  ford.  This,  however,  is  not  the  general 
character  of  its  banks,  as  they  usually  are  high  and  well  defined,  preventing  an  overflow  at  any 
season.  It  is  about  three  feet  deep  at  the  ford,  and  the  bottom  is  filled  with  large  water- worn 
shingle,  and  makes  the  fording  difficult  in  so  rapid  a  stream.  Just  opposite  the  ford  the  Spilyeh 
debouches  into  it  from  the  north.  Between  Simsik  and  the  Cathlapoot'l,  with  the  exception  of  the 
small  plains,  the  country  is  well  timbered  with  fir,  hemlock,  &c.,  and  the  underbrush  is  very 
dense  in  places.  Some  alder  and  maple  grow  along  the  Yahkohtl  river.  The  soil  is  generally 
very  good,  and  that  between  Yahkohtl  river  and  plain  will  compare  favorably  with  any  in  the 
Territory;  there  is  but  little  of  it,  however.  The  Cathlapoot'l,  at  the  ford,  runs  nearly  west  and 
east.  There  are  two  mountain  chains  running  along  its  banks,  one  on  either  side;  the  one  on  the 
right  or  northern  bank  is  composed  of  rugged,  broken  hills,  is  lower  than  the  chain  on  the  south 
bank,  is  less  continuous,  and  lies  farther  back  from  the  river.  Bluffs  and  spurs  from  it,  however, 
run  up  to  the  river.  To  avoid  these,  the  trail  runs  back  from  the  river  in  a  northerly  direction 
across  the  range  four  and  a  half  miles  to  Spilyeh  plain.  The  Spilyeh  river  is  crossed  about  a  mile 
from  the  Cathlapoot'l  at  its  forks,  the  trail  running  up  the  hills  on  the  tongue  between  them. 
One  branch  bears  to  the  northeast, 'the  other  to  the  west  of  north.  Spilyeh  plain  is  long  and 
narrow.  A  high  range  of  mountains  border  it  on  the  north  a  short  distance  back,  and  on  the 
south  is  seen  the  rugged  river  chain  of  hills  that  we  have  crossed.  As  this  is  the  last  of  the 
plains  which  we  meet  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountains,  it  will  be  well  to  remark,  in  this 
place,  that,  from  the  facts  noted  on  Lieutenant  Hodges'  trip  across  the  mountains  to  Sleilacoom, 
from  what  we  saw  on  the  route,  and  subsequently  noticed  between  Vancouver  and  Orympia, 
the  entire  country  west  of  the  mountains  is  broken  up  by  these  small  plains  occurring  at  regular 
intervals  here  and  there  throughout  its  whole  extent.  They  are  generally  slightly  rolling  and  dry, 
and  covered  with  fine  bunch-grass.  Their  soil  for  the  most  part  is  too  sandy  and  gravelly  to 
be  good,  particularly  in  those  which  lie  nearest  the  sound.  Some  of  them,  however,  as  Mankas 
and  Chalacha,  are  lower  and  swampy,  and  the  soil  of  such  is  better  suited  for  agriculture. 
From  Spilyeh  the  trail  bears  to  the  east,  over  a  pretty  level  country,  occasionally  passing 
over  spurs  which  come  down  from  the  chain  on  the  left  for  four  and  a  half  miles,  where  it 
again  strikes  the  river  ;  thence  follows  the  river  for  two  and  a  half  miles,  and  crosses  to  the  left 
bank  to  a  place  called  by  the  Indians  Lakas.  The  northeastern  branch  of  the  Spilyeh  is  again 
crossed  before  reaching  the  Cathlapoot'l.  There  is  a  high  range  on  the  left  of  the  trail  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  and  the  chain  crossed  between  the  Cathlapoot'l  and  Spilyeh  plains  ceases 
before  the  trail  again  reaches  the  river.  The  country  between  Spilyeh  and  Lakas  is  heavily 
timbered  with  spruce,  hemlock,  and  fine  large  cedars.  From  Lakas  the  trail  follows  the  banks 
of  the  Cathlapoot'l,  crossing  from  side  to  side  to  avoid  the  bluffs  running  up  to  the  river  from  both 
ranges  for  seventeen  miles,  to  Wininepat.  At  this  point  the  river  bends  from  its  general  east 
and  west  course  more  to  the  north,  and  judging  from  the  openings  or  gorges  in  the  mountain 
ranges,  (which  here  become  high  and  heavy,)  it  soon  forks,  one  branch  running  to  the  northeast 
and  the  other  bending  back  to  the  northwest,  and  running  up  towards  St.  Helens.  Two  and  a 
halt  miles  from  Lakas  there  is  a  fine  mountain  brook  coming  in  from  the  north  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river.  This  stream  is  very  rapid,  twenty  feet  wide  and  eighteen  inches  deep;  bottom  stony. 
Seven  and  a  half  miles  beyond,  the  Noomptnamie  river  comes  in  on  the  same  bank,  from  the 
north,  almost  at  right-angles  with  the  Cathlapoot'l.  There  is  a  large  field  of  lava  between  the 
mountain  brook  just  mentioned  and  the  Noomptnamie  river.  It  is  limited  on  the  north  by  a,  high 
rough  range  of  mountains  between  the  trail  and  Mount  St.  Helens,  running  parallel  to  the 


206  TOPOGRAPHICAL    REPORT    ON    WESTERN    DIVISION. 

Cathlnpoot'l,  and  five  or  six  miles  back  from  it.  There  are  many  craters  of  extinct  volcanoes 
found  in  this  field,  and  \vide  and  deep  fissures,  formed  by  the  bursting  of  lava  bubbles  by  cool 
ing  too  suddenly.  A  great  many  large  masses  and  small  detached  angular  fragments  of  lava 
are  scattered  over  the  surface,  and  it  is  rough,  barren,  arid  desolate.  There  are  traces,  however, 
of  timber  (spruce)  having  grown  on  it  at  some  time  since  the  eruption  which  formed  it ;  but 
fire  has  nearly  removed  them,  a  few  charred  stumps  and  logs  only  remaining.  This  field  is 
narrowed  towards  the  mouth  of  the  Noomptnamie  by  the  mountain  chain  on  the  north.  These 
mountains  are  also  basaltic  in  structure.  The  Noomptnamie  is  forty  feet  wide,  and  from  three  and 
a  half  to  four  feet  deep — bottom  rough  and  stony.  This  is  one  of  the  boldest  of  mountain  streams, 
with  a  great  fall  and  very  rapid  current.  The  Cathlapoot'l  has  also  a  greater  fall  and  more  rapidity 
of  current  for  two  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Noomptnamie.  Between  the  Noomptnamie  and 
Wininepat  the  trail  passes  over  quite  a  level  country  ;  two  spurs  from  the  range  on  the  right  bank 
come  down  to  the  river,  the  one  along  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Noomptnamie,  and  the  other  two  miles 
beyond.  The  trail  crosses  over  the  first,  and  avoids  the  second  by  crossing  to  the  left  bank  of  the 
Cathlapoot'l,  and  returning  to  the  right  bank  again  above  this  spur.  The  chain  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  Cathlapoot'l  is  very  high  and  continuous,  arid  abrupt  and  broken  on  the  water  declivity, 
coming  down  to  the  water's  edge.  One  mile  below,  where  the  river  makes  the  great  bend  to  the 
north  at  Weninepat,  this  range  leaves  the  river  and  runs  off' slightly  to  the  south  of  east.  Another 
cross  chain,  however,  runs  along  nearly  parallel  to  the  river,  and  soon  nins  into  it.  The  Cathla 
poot'l  has  no  valley:  cotton-wood  and  balm  of  Gilead  grow  in  the  low  places  along  its  banks. 
The  country  is  well  timbered  with  spruce  and  pine ;  between  Lakas  and  Wininepat,  with  spruce, 
fir,  pine,  and  cedar.  The  trail  crosses  the  river  Cathlapoot'l  at  Wininepat  for  the  last  time,  and 
then  leaves  this  river.  The  last  crossings  of  the  Cathlapoot'l  are  diagonal,  and  all  its  fords  are 
difficult  for  animals,  on  account  of  the  rapidity  of  the  current  and  the  immense  quantities  of 
large  water-worn  pebbles  on  the  bottom.  The  breadth  of  stream  is  about  seventy-five  to  eighty 
feet,  and  that  of  the  bed,  between  banks,  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  yards.  It  cannot 
be  forded  at  high  water.  Leaving  the  Cathlapoot'l,  the  trail  bears  to  the  southeast  across  the  river 
chain,  which  has  been  running  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  but  lying  back  from  it  at  this  point. 
This  chain  is  not  sharp  or  very  rocky,  but  earthy  and  soft,  and  rounded  in  outline,  and  very  high. 
The  ascent  for  the  first  part  is  over  five  plateaux ;  ascent  to  plateaux  abrupt,  but  not  very  high. 
The  last  part  of  this  ascent  is  made  by  a  long  winding  stretch  over  the  side  slope  of  the  main 
range,  and  is  remarkably  abrupt.  The  descent  to  the  Wahamis,  on  high  rolling  table-land,  eight 
miles  from  the  Cathlapoot'l,  is  gentle  and  gradual.  Here  is  fine  grass,  worthy  of  note,  as  it  is  the 
first  which  occurs  between  Spilyeh  plain  and  this  point.  These  mountains  have  been  burned 
over,  so  that  their  appearance  is  bald  and  barren,  and  the  timber,  where  it  occurs,  is  young 
growth  of  pine  and  hemlock.  They  are  remarkable  for  the  quantity  of  berries  growing  on  them. 
Strawberries  and  four  varieties  of  whortleberries  were  noted.  Berries  are  generally  found  on  any 
tract  of  country  visited  by  fire^but  they  are  mostly  found  in  the  mountains,  and  seem  to  flourish 
best  near  the  summit.  From  Wahamis  the  trail  bears  south  of  east  for  twenty  miles,  to  Chequoss, 
a  point  on  the  high  mountain  table-land  of  the  chain  running  from  the  mouth  of  the  White  Salmon 
to  Mount  Adams.  The  immediate  country  is  high  rolling,  and  sometimes  broken,  and  high 
ranges  run  off  to  the  right  and  left  of  trail,  with  bald,  isolated  peaks  occurring  here  and  there 
in  them.  The  descent  from  the  high  table-land  to  the  Chequoss  is  gradual,  and  there  are  several 
very  high  peaks  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place.  The  Wahamis  creek  runs  to  the  right  and  left  of 
trail,  generally  some  distance  from  it,  and  is  crossed  two  or  three  times  ;  it  soon  bears  off  to  the 

southeast,   and  is  one  of  the  principal  branches  of  the .     Eleven  and  a  half  miles  from 

Wahamis  there  are  some  low,  wet  prairies  on  left  of  trail  Yawakamis,  and  are  drained  by  small 
streams  crossing  the  trail  in  basaltic  ravines,  and  emptying  into  the  Wahamis;  there  are  two 
fine  brooks  between  Yawakamis  and  Chequoss,  also  branches  of  the  White  Salmon.  There  are 
lakes  on  the  table-land  near  Chequoss.  The  country  between  Yawakamis  and  Chequoss  is  more 


TOPOGRAPHICAL   REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION.  207 

basaltic,  and  there  are  frequent  occurrences  of  craters,  some  of  which  are  very  deep  ;  and  basaltic 
columns,  which  have  yielded  to  time  and  the  atmosphere,  are  crumbled  into  huge  irregular  masses. 
The  lower  table-lands  are  well  timbered  (where  they  have  not  been  burnt  over  by  fire)  with  fir, 
spruce,  and  pine ;  but  the  higher  ones  are  too  elevated  for  flourishing  vegetation,  and  are  only 
covered  in  patches  with  a  few  dwarf  fir  trees  and  stunted  pines.  The  fir  and  hemlock  are 
generally  replaced  by  pine  on  the  summits  of  mountains  and  other  elevated  positions,  the  former 
flourishing  best  and  growing  larger  in  the  low  countries  and  along  the  streams.  The  latitude 
of  Chequoss  is  north  45°  56';  the  longitude  is  west  121°  23'  11";  variation  of  needle  is  east 
16°  5'  34".  From  a  high,  elevated  point,  one  mile  west  of  CKequoss,  a  fine  view  of  the  Cascade 
mountains  presents  itself.  From  this  point  I  was  able  to  get  a  pretty  accurate  plan  of  the  mount 
ains  and  the  general  lay  of  the  chains.  From  this  point  Mount  Rainier  bears  north  1°  west,  and 
is  about  sixty-two  miles  distant  in  a  direct  line.  Mount  St.  Helens  bears  north  46°  west  about 
forty  miles  off".  Mount  Adams  bears  north  40°  east  at  the  distance  of  twenty-four  miles.  Mount 
Hood  bears  south  9°  30'  east ;  Mount  Jefferson  south  45'  east.  There  appears  to  be  one  con 
tinuous  high  range  running  from  near  the  Cascades  of  the  Columbia  north  to  St.  Helens,  and 
proceeding  on  to  the  northeast,  connecting  this  mount  with  Mount  Rainier.  There  seems  to  be  a 
lower  point  in  this  connecting  range  just  north  of  Mount  St.  Helens,  as  if  some  river,  emptying 
into  the  sound,  passed  through  it.  It  is  not  a  gorge,  however,  and  there  are  five  distinct  parallel 
ranges  running  into  Mount  Rainier,  and  lying  between  Chequoss  and  St.  Helens.  A  second  main 
range  commences  about  the  mouth  of  the  White  Salmon  river,  and  runs  up  to  Mount  Adams,  and 
continues  on  to  the  northward,  connecting  Adams  with  Rainier.  A  third  chain  commences  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Klikatat  river,  a  light  fork  of  which  runs  up  to  Mount  Adams  on  the  north,  and  the 
heavier  chain  bears  off  to  the  north  of  east,  and  proceeds  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima.  The 
eastern  branches  of  the  Klikatat  river  head  in  this  last  range. 

Chequoss  is  on  the  second  chain  from  the  White  Salmon  river  north  to  Mount  Adams.  There 
are  several  sharp  needle-points  to  the  south  of  Mount  Rainier,  and  the  mountains  in  that,  vicinity 
are  very  irregular  and  thrown  together  in  every  variety  of  manner.  There  is  also  a  curious 
cathedral-shaped  mountain  to  the  south  of  Mount  Adams,  on  the  chain  leading  to  Chequoss. 
Looking  towards  the  south,  there  are  four  parallel  ranges  between  Chequoss  and  Mount  Hood; 
and  thence,  allowing  one  of  these  to  be  the  river  chain,  on  its  southern  bank,  we  have  three  ranges 
between  Chequoss  and  the  Columbia.  The  intervening  country  between  these  chains  is  mount 
ainous;  in  some  places  rough  and  broken,  in  others  high  rolling  table-land. 

From  Chequoss  the  trail  bears  north  of  east  for  fourteen  miles  to  the  Hoolhoolse  river,  descend 
ing  the  whole  distance;  abrupt  descent  in  first  two  and  a  quarter  miles,  the  rest  of  the  distance 
being  gradual.  There  is  a  small  lake,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  in  a  lava  district  at  the  foot  of  the 
abrupt  descent,  and  on  the  left  of  the  trail.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  large  growth  of  cotton-wood 
and  poplar. 

The  main  branch  of  the  Klikatat  river  comes  in  from  the  north,  and  crosses  the  trail  four  miles 
beyond  the  lake.  This  stream  is  bold  and  rapid,  thirty  feet  wide  and  two  deep — fording  good. 
This  stream  may  at  one  time  have  been  a  branch  of  the  Nikepun.  As  the  country  descends 
towards  the  Hoolhoolse,  from  it,  and  an  old  dry  bed  is  frequently  crossed  by  the  trail  between 
these  points.  The  last  five  or  six  miles  of  this  dry  channel  before  reaching  the  Hoalhoolse  is 
basaltic,  the  basalt  arching  the  channel  and  making  it  subterranean — depth  of  the  key  of  the  arch 
from  four  to  six  feet,  and  bottom  of  channel  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet  below  the  surface. 
The  arch  has  fallen  in  in  places,  forming  natural  shafts  at  irregular  intervals,  by  which  you  are 
enabled  to  trace  on  the  surface  the  course  and  direction  of  the  channel  underground.  The  Indians 
have  a  curious  tradition  concerning  this  subterranean  passage.  Once  upon  a  time  a  great  chief 
of  the  "Eliptillicum"  had  a  wife  who  was  changed  into  a  mouse  at  his  request  by  one  of  the 
learned  medicine  men  of  the  time,  as  a  just  punishment  for  some  misdemeanor  or  other  that  the 
women  of  those  days  were  always  committing.  But  the  woman's  soul,  not  profiting  by  the  lesson 


208  TOPOGRAPHICAL    REPORT    ON    WESTERN    DIVISION. 

of  transmigration,  must  still  work  mischief  under  another  covering;  and  accordingly,  in  a  very 
rebellious  mood,  she  endeavors  to  undermine  the  aforesaid  chief's  dominions.  These  caves 
were  the  result  produced  by  her  spite.  With  all  due  deference  to  the  Eliptillicum,  we  may  con 
clude,  however,  that  its  cause  was  volcanic  eruption — the  lava  overrunning  an  existing  stream,  and 
suddenly  cooling,  the  waters  of  the  stream  being  forced  into  another  channel. 

There  is  a  low  chain  of  mountains  stretching  off  from  Chequoss  along  the  right  of  the  trail, 
and  from  two  to  three  miles  from  it,  and  continues  on  towards  the  east.  The  Hoolhoolse  rises 
in  this  chain. 

The  country  is  very  rough  and  mountainous  on  the  left  of  the  trail,  south  of  Mount  Adams;  but 
none  of  the  spurs  come  down  to  it  until  after  we  have  crossed  the  Nikepun,  about  four  miles 
beyond  the  Hoolhoolse,  where  a  pretty  high  range  runs  to  the  southeast. 

From  Chequoss  the  country  is  heavily  timbered  up  to  the  branch  of  the  Klikatat.  From  that 
river  to  the  Hoolhoolse  there  is  open  pine  forest,  free  from  underbrush  and  covered  with  fine 
bunch-grass. 

From  Hoolhoolse  the  trail  bears  south  of  east  for  nine  miles  to  Tahk  plains.  The  Nikepun, 
a  rapid  mountain  stream,  is  crossed  three  miles  from  the  Hoolhoolse.  The  latter  is  a  branch  of 
it.  The  Nikepun  is  thirty-five  feet  wide,  and  three  deep — bottom  rocky.  One  mile  beyond  this 
river  is  the  range  running  southeast  from  Mount  Adams.  Thus  far  the  trail  is  over  very  level 
country,  covered  with  open  fine  timber  of  small  growth  and  bunch-grass — no  underbrush.  The 
remainder  of  the  distance  to  Tahk  plain  is  over  this  range,  which  is  more  heavily  timbered;  and 
the  trail  crosses  two  small  branches  of  the  Nikepun  heading  in  this  range.  The  first  ascent 
is  long  and  abrupt ;  the  rest  is  broken  and  rolling.  The  timber  on  the  last  two  miles  is  more 
open. 

A  range  of  high  hills  borders  Tahk  plain  on  the  east,  spurs  of  which  put  down  to  it;  but  the 
range  between  the  Nikepun  arid  this  plain  is  the  last  which  connects  with  the  main  range.  On 
the  west  it  is  limited  by  high  hills  which  come  down  from  Mount  Adams.  This  plain  is  ten  miles 
long,  and  from  one  to  three  miles  wide.  There  is  a  marshy  lake,  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  in  it,  and 
a  branch  of  the  Wah-wuk-chic  leading  from  it,  and  running  to  the  northeast.  This  plain  is  low 
and  wet  in  many  places,  and  gives  evidence  of  being  partially,  if  not  entirely,  under  water 
during  the  wet  season.  From  Tahk  the  trail  bears  northeast  for  thirty-seven  miles,  to  the  Sah- 
penis,  a  branch  of  the  Yakirna.  For  twelve  miles  the  trail  lies  over  Tahk  plain  and  a  slightly  un 
dulating  country,  but  not  hilly.  A  little  loose  lava  rock  is  occasionally  found  on  the  surface. 

Here  the  Wah-wuk-chic  crosses  the  trail.  The  Wah-wuk-chic  has  no  valley,  and  is  reached 
by  an  abrupt  descent.  The  river  is  about  seventy  feet  wide  at  the  ford,  and  two  and  a  half 
feet  deep — bottom  sandy,  current  rapid,  rough  rapids  just  above  and  below  crossing.  A  spur 
from  the  Cascades  comes  down  along  the  northern  side  of  the  river,  and  intersects  the  range 
of  hills  running  north  and  south  on  the  east  side  of  Tahk  plain.  For  two  miles  from  the  Wah- 
wuk-chic  the  country  is  rough  and  broken,  and  ascends  over  two  abrupt  hills  to  a  high  undulating 
table-land  beyond.  The  divide  or  highest  part  of  this  table-land  is  about  fifteen  miles  from  the 
Wah-wuk-chic,  where  occur  some  very  large  boulders  of  basalt. 

From  this  ridge  to  the  Sahpenis  the  country  is  more  rough  and  broken,  and  an  abrupt  and 
deep  ravine  runs  along  the  left  of  the  trail,  in  which  is  a  branch  or  fork  of  the  Sahpenis  coming 
in  from  the  southwest.  The  other  fork  comes  in  from  the  northwest  through  a  similar  ravine. 
Two  small  brooks  are  crossed  between  the  Wah-wuk-chic  and  the  dividing  ridge.  This  ridge  or 
range  runs  off  to  the  northeast,  along  the  right  of  the  trail.  Leaving  the  Sahpenis  at  the  forks,  the 
trail  runs  back  from  the  main  stream  and  bears  northeast  over  a  basaltic  broken  spur,  until  it 
reaches  the  Sahpenis  by  a  gradual  descent  seven  miles  beyond.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  loose 
angular  lava  on  this  spur;  the  timber  becomes  more  scattering  and  scrubby,  and  ceases  three 
miles  beyond  the  forks :  this  is  the  eastern  limit  of  the  pine  timber.  The  Sahpenis  runs  on  the 
left  of  the  trail,  gradually  approaching  it  in  a  basaltic  canon  with  almost  perpendicular  sides. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL    REPORT    ON    WESTERN   DIVISION.  200 

The  basalt  in  these  walls  is  columnar.  A  range  of  high  bleak  hills  (the  continuation  of  the 
divide)  is  on  the  right  of  the  trail,  and  about  two  rniles  from  it.  For  the  last  five  miles  the 
country  is  rough,  broken,  barren,  God-forsaken,  and  desolate.  Offtothe  southeast  it  presents  the  • 
same  dreary,  desolate  appearance.  From  Wah-wuk-chic  river  to  the  forks  of  the  Sahpenis  the 
country  is  covered  with  open  pine  woods,  timber  large,  and  no  underbrush  ;  fine  grass  grows 
in  the  woods  throughout  this  distance.  The  Sahpenis  is  thirty-,five  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep, 
ford  good  ;  this  river  has  no  valley  at  or  above  the  ford,  but  the  basaltic  spur  ceases  on  the  left 
bank  half  a  mile  below,  and  the  valley  widens  out  into  a  low,  sandy,  gravelly  plateau  several 
miles  wide. 

A  second  stream,  the  Simkwec,  comes  into  this  valley  from  the  northwest,  and  unites  with 
the  Sahpenis  four  miles  below,  forming  the  Pises  river.  The  distance  between  these  streams 
along  the  trail  is  three  miles.  The  intermediate  country  is  filled  with  arroyas,  and  has  the 
appearance  of  being  swept  over  in  the  wet  season.  Its  soil  is  very  sandy  and  gravelly;  wild  sage 
and  wild  rye  grow  upon  it.  A  little  cotton-wood  and  maple  grow  in  the  valley  of  the  Simkwee, 
and  some  wide-spreading  and  scrubby  white-oak  along  the  banks  of  the  Sahpenis.  The  Simkwee 
is  twenty-five  feet  wide  and  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  deep  ;  current  rapid — ford  good.  From 
the  crossing  of  the  Simkwee  the  trail  runs  nearly  north  for  eight  miles,  to  the  Atahnam,  crossing 
a  spur  running  to  the  east.  This  spur,  and  the  one  before  reaching  the  Sahpenis,  are  the  first 
of  a  series  of  radiating  spurs  which  run  off  to  the  east  from  the  main  range  of  the  Cascade 
mountains,  between  and  separating  the  several  branches  of  the  Yakima.  These  spurs,  or 
ranges,  proceed  to  the  eastward  far  beyond  the  trail,  and  fall  off  and  lose  themselves  in  the 
wide,  worthless  sage  barrens  along  the  Columbia  river.  This  is  a  high,  barren,  and  basaltic 
spur;  the  slope  towards  Simkwee  and  the  summit  being  perfectly  covered  with  sharp,  angular 
fragments  of  loose,  broken  lava  of  all  sizes,  rendering  the  travelling  hard  upon  animals.  The 
slope  towards  the  Atahnam  is  more  earthy;  ascent  and  descent  abrupt.  The  Atahnam  is  a  rapid 
stream,  forty  feet  wide  and  two  and  a  half  deep.  The  Atahnam  has  a  valley  of  one  quarter  to 
half  a  mile  wide  at  the  ford,  but  the  river  is  very  crooked,  and  cuts  it  up,  by  its  transverse 
crossings,  into  small,  worthless  patches.  There  are  columnar  basaltic  walls  on  each  side  of  it 
about  thirty  feet  high,  with  high,  rutted,  earthy,  and  sandy  hills  piled  on  top  of  them.  From  the 
ford  the  trail  bears  to  the  east  through  the  valley  for  three  miles,  to  the  Atahnam  mission.  Up 
to  this  point  the  valley  is  similar  to  that  described  at  the  ford;  but  below  it  the  basaltic  walls 
cease  as  the  valley  widens  out.  Thence  the  trail  runs  nearly  north  for  about  thirty-seven  miles, 
to  Ketetas,  on  the  Yakima,  crossing  the  Kwiwichess,  Nahchess,  Wenass,  and  Entinum,  at 
intervals  of  seven,  ten,  seventeen,  and  twenty-seven  miles,  respectively.  Between  the  mission 
and  the  Kwiwichess  there  is  a  high  spur  almost  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  covered  with 
immense  fields  of  small,  broken  lava;  ascent  and  descent  pretty  abrupt,  and  the  top  or  summit  is 
a  rolling,  broken  plateau.  The  Kwiwichess  is  a  small  brook,  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  wide;  it  forks 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  the  ford.  Its  valley  is  a  sort  of  basin,  surrounded  and  terminated  by 
the  mountain  on  the  west,  and  about  three  miles  from  the  trail,  and  widening  towards  the  east 
until  it  reaches  the  Yakima.  A  little  willow  and  aspen  grow  upon  its  banks,  and  there  is  good 
grass  in  the  valley.  A  sharp  spur  of  the  Cascades  runs  between  the  Kwiwichess  and  the 
Nahchess.  Many  large  masses  of  crumbling  columnar  basalt  occur  upon  it.  The  trail,  however, 
is  good.  The  descent  to  the  Nahchess  valley  is  quite  abrupt  and  rocky.  Fine  grass  grows 
upon  this  range.  The  valley  of  the  Nahchess  is  from  two  to  three  miles  wide  at  the  point  of 
crossing  it,  but  widens  towards  its  junction  with  the  Yakima.  It  is  very  much  cut  up  by  the 
crookedness  of  the  river.  Wild-cherry  scrub,  cotton-wood,  balm  of  Gilead,  and  aspen,  grow 
upon  its  banks.  The  river  is  seventy  feet  wide,  but  is  one  hundred  yards  wide  at  this  point  in 
the  rainy  season;  it  is  three  feet  deep,  and  the  bottom  is  filled  with  water-worn  pebbles;  current 
rapid,  witli  great  fall.  In  the  hills  on  the  north  of  the  valley  of  this  river  is  while,  stratified  sand 
stone.  The  country  between  this  river  and  the  Wenass  is  over  a  high,  rolling  table-land,  covered 
2T/ 


210  TOPOGRAPHICAL   REPORT    ON    WESTERN    DIVISION. 

with   grass,  and  with  loss  rock  and  lava  upon  it  ihnn  on  the  other  spurs  crossed.     The  valley  of 
ihe  Wenass  is  a  mile  wide.     Like  the  valleys  of  all  the   Yakima's  branches,  it  widens  towards 
its  junction  with  that  river,  and  narrows  towards  the  mountains,  the  intermediate  spurs  between 
streams  closing  upon  the  valleys  towards  the  main  mountains,  reducing  them  virtual!}7  to  nothing. 
The  Wenass  is  twenty  feet  wide,  eighteen  inches  deep ;  bottom  strong,  current  rapid.     Wild- 
cherry  scrub,  aspen,  cotton-wood,  balm  of  Gilead,  and  willow  of  small  growth,  are  found  upon  its 
banks.     Cactus  is  found  in  this  valley,  and  in  that  of  the   Nahchess.     The  country  between  the 
Wenass  and  Yakima   is  a  high,  barren,   broken,  basaltic   table- land,  and  is  mostly  destitute  of 
any  kind  of  vegetation.     Immense  fields  of  broken  lava,  sharp  and  angular,  occur  upon  it.     The 
Emptenum,  a  small  stream  ten  feet  wide,  runs  through  it  in  a  deep  canon  about  ten  miles  from 
Wenass.     The  descent  to  and  ascent  from  this  stream  are  made  through  ravines.     In  the  ravine 
or  defile  on  the  northern  bank  there  are  some  very  fine  specimens  of  pentagonal  basaltic  columns, 
with  convex  and  concave  ends.     The  descent  to  the  Yakima  is  through  a  similar  defile.     This  is 
the  highest  spur  crossed  since  doubling  Mount  Adams,  and  is  highest  between  the  Wenass  and 
Emptenum.     The  Yakima  cuts  through  this  range,  in  a  gorge,  about  six  miles  below  the  point 
at  which  the  trail  crosses  this  river.     The  Kefetas  plain  is  a  high,  rolling,  basin-shaped  plateau, 
lying  mostly  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Yakima.     It  is  surrounded  by  high  mountains  on  the 
north  and  south,  the  northern  chain  being  about  eight  miles  from  the  river,  and  the  southern  range 
being  the  one  crossed  between  the  Emptenum  arid  the  Yakima.     These  chains  unite  fifteen  miles 
below  the   ford,  and  terminate  the   plain  in   that  direction.     After   uniting,  they  run  to  the   cast, 
towards  the  Columbia  river,  in  a  high  range.     To  the  westward  the  valley  extends  about  six 
miles,  and  then  ceases.     The  Nahnum,  a  bold  mountain  stream,  comes  from  a  gorge  in  the  north 
ern  range  nearly  north  of  the  ford,  and,  bending  to  the  east,  crosses  the  Ketetas  plain  and  unites 
with  the  Yakima  near  the  point  where  the  latter  river  pierces   the   southern  spur.     A  second 
stream,  a  rivulet  four  feet  wide,  comes   from  this  same  northern  range  farther  to  the  east,  and, 
running  through  the  plain,   unites   with  the  Nahnum  near  its  mouth.     There  is  a  stream   also 
from  the  southwest,  heading  in  the  southern  range,  and  empties  into  the  Yakima  by  its  several 
mouths  just  above  and  below  the  ford.     A  small  strip  of  this  plain  along  the  river  is  low,  and 
produces  good  grass;  the  other  portions  are  either  basaltic  plateaux,  covered  with  loose  lava,  or 
they  are  sandy,  barren,  sage  deserts,  cut  up  with  arroyas,  and  unfit  for  cultivation. 

The  Yakima  river  has  a  narrow  valley  for  about  ten  miles  of  its  course  on  the  southern  bank, 
opposite  Ketetas  plain.  Six  miles  of  this  narrow  valley  extend  westward  from  Ketetas  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Ptehnum,  a  stream  on  the  right  bank  from  the  southwest.  Above  the  mouth  of  this 
river  there  is  no  open  valley.  A  pretty  fair  trail  is  found,  however,  on  either  bank,  by  passing 
over  low  hills  and  light  spurs,  for  forty  miles  from  Ketetas  to  the  forks,  when  the  Kahchess 
and  Yahinse  unite  to  form  the  main  river.  The  pine  timber  commences  (as  you  go  westward) 
five  miles  above  the  Ptehnum,  and  the  country  is  timbered  thence  to  the  forks  with  open  pine 
woods,  and  no  underbrush.  Beyond  the  forks  the  timber  becomes  more  large  and  heavy,  and 
the  underbrush  very  dense.  There  are  high  ranges  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  a  little  back 
from  it,  up  to  the  forks,  beyond  which  the  mountains  become  very  high. 

The  principal  branches  of  the  Yakima  on  the  right  bank  above  Ketetas,  are  the  Ptehnum 
(already  spoken  of)  and  the  Wahnoowisha,  which  come  in  five  miles  below  the  forks.  The 
principal  northern  branches  are  the  Schwock,  Yannoinse,  and  Samahma,  their  junctions  being 
at  distances  of  seventeen,  twenty-one,  arid  twenty-six  miles  respectively  above  the  ford  at 
Ketetas.  The  Yahinse  heads  in  Lake  Kitchelus,  near  the  Snoqualme  Pass  of  the  main  range. 
The  Kahchess  river  is  but  a  short  crooked  stream,  carrying  off  the  waters  of  two  large  lakes. 
The  first  of  these,  Lake  Kahchess,  occurs  on  the  river  four  or  five  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  is 
eight  miles  long,  and  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  miles  broad  ;  one  mile  above  it,  and  connected 
with  it  by  a  shallow,  sluggish  stream,  seventy  feet  wide,  is  Lake  Pilwallas.  This  lake  is  six- 
miles  long,  and  from  one-half  to  one  mile  broad.  Several  mountain  torrents,  but  no  large 


TOPOGRAPHICAL    REPORT   ON    WESTERN    DIVISION.  211 

streams,  enter  these  lakes.  They  are  very  deep,  but  no  exact  soundings  were  taken  for  want  of 
a  line  of  sufficient  length.  There  is  a  large  lake  on  the  Sarnahma  river,  eight  miles  above  its 
junction  with  the  Columbia.  This  lake,  Kleallum,  is  seven  miles  long,  and  from  one  to  three 
miles  broad.  The  Samahma  at  its  head  is  a  bold  mountain  stream  in  character,  and  is  about 
fifty  feet  wide  one  mile  above  the  head  of  the  lake.  All  of  these  lakes  are  embosomed  in  and 
entirely  surrounded  by  mountains,  heavily  timbered  with  fir,  pine,  and  cedar.  The  mountains 
around  Pilvvaltas  particularly  are  very  sharp  and  rugged  granitic  peaks,  some  of  which  are  round 
and  bald,  and  others  needle-shape  in  structure.  The  Samahma  river  below  the  lake  is  sixty  feet 
wide  and  very  crooked  and  rapid.  The  Yannoinse  and  Schwock  are  streams  thirty  feet  wide, 
with  rapid  currents  and  rocky  bottoms.  The  Yakima  is  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  feet  wide, 
and  the  ford  at  Ketetas  is  shallow  and  good.  It  is  usually  from  three  to  five  feet  deep,  and 
fording  impracticable  at  high  water.  After  leaving  Ketetas  plain,  the  Yakima  bends  to  the  south 
until  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  Atahnam,  and  then  turns  again  to  the  east,  and  runs  generally 
in  that  direction  to  its  junction  with  the  Columbia,  about  twenty  miles  above  Wallah- Wallah. 
Mr.  George  Gibbs.  who  followed  this  river  to  its  mouth,  reports  that  the  valley  is  continuous  below 
the  Atahnam,  and  from  six  to  ten  miles  wide  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  Columbia,  where  it 
is  cut  off  by  a  range  of  low  hills  running  nearly  parallel  to  the  latter.  It  is  uniformly  barren, 
except  a  few  small  spots  along  the  margin,  which  are  overflown  by  the  freshets.  The  basalt 
continues  to  the  Columbia.  Bunch-grass  grows  only  upon  the  hills,  the  low  sandy  plateau  being 
covered  with  wild  sage.  Cotton-wood  grows  upon  the  banks  as  far  down  as  the  mouth  of  the 
Pisca,  below  which  there  are  only  a  few  willow  bushes.  The  country  on  the  Columbia  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Yakima  is  a  sandy  desert  covered  with  sage.  The  banks  of  the  Columbia  have  a 
uniform  height  of  about  thirty  feet  above  the  river.  All  the  country  north  of  the  Yakima,  between 
that  and  the  Columbia,  must  be  more  or  less  mountainous  or  high  and  broken  table-land,  as  the 
spurs  between  the  branches  of  the  Yakima,  coming  out  from  the  main  range,  unite  to  the  east  of 
that  river  along  its  southern  bend,  and  run  off  together  in  a  rough  broken  chain  towards  the 
Columbia.  Leaving  Ketetas  on  the  Yakima,  the  trail  bears  to  the  east  of  north  for  sixteen  miles 
to  the  top  of  the  divide,  and  thence  eighteen  and  a  half  miles  to  the  west  of  north  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Wenatsaparn  river.  For  eight  miles  the  trail  lies  across  Ketetas  plain  to  the  gorge  from 
which  the  Nahnum  comes  from  the  mountains,  and  crosses  the  Nahnum  at  this  point.  This 
river  is  rapid  and  stony,  and  about  thirty  feet  wide.  There  is  a  fall  of  three  feet  upon  it  two  miles 
below  the  ford.  Here  we  commence  the  ascent  of  the  divide  between  the  Yakirna  and  the 
Columbia.  The  Nahnum  runs  for  several  miles  from  the  gorge  along  the  left  of  the  trail  in  a 
very  deep  canon,  and  then  leaves  it,  bearing  to  the  northwest.  To  the  top  of  the  divide 
the  ascent  is  gradual  except  in  places,  and  the  country  is  rough  and  basaltic,  with  a  great  deal  of 
loose  broken  lava  upon  the  surface.  This  spur  is  timbered,  but  the  trees  do  not  extend  to  the 
east  beyond  one  or  two  miles  from  the  crossing,  and  then  only  in  strips  and  points;  timber, 
pine,  and  open  for  the  most  part.  Just  before  reaching  the  divide,  the  trail  crosses  two  small 
rivulets,  the  heads  of  the  streams  running  through  Ketetas  plain  to  the  east  of  the  Nahnum. 
The  top  of  the  range,  which  is  higher  than  the  other  spurs,  is  comparatively  level  for  several 
miles,  and  has  small  ponds  and  swampy  places  on  it.  Owing  to  this  flat,  level  character,  the 
trees  upon  it  are  not  seen  from  either  the  Yakima  or  Columbia,  the  range  presenting  a  bare, 
barren,  desolate  look.  From  the  summit  a  sharp  angular  range  of  snow  mountains  is  seen  off 
to  the  left  of  the  trail,  and  commencing  between  the  summit  and  the  Columbia,  run  off  towards 
the  northwest.  Mount  Stuart  is  the  most  prominent,  and  is  nearest  the  Columbia.  The 
Samahma,  Yannoinse,  Schwock  arid  Nahnum  branches  of  the  Yakima,  and  the  Skilkantin,  a 
branch  of  the  Columbia,  and  several  branches  of  the  Wenatsapam  river,  head  in  these  snow 
mountains.  The  descent  from  the  spurs  is  by  plateaux — that  of  the  first  four  being  abrupt  and 
rocky.  The  pine  timber  ceases  about  four  miles  before  reaching  the  Columbia.  The  Skilkantin, 
a  stream  twenty  feet  wide,  rapid  and  slony,  is  crossed  two  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  the  trail 


212  TOPOGRAPHICAL    REPORT   ON   WESTERN    DIVISION. 

crosses  two  of  its  small  branchi  s  in  the  descent  from  the  divide.  Follow  this  stream  from  the 
ford  to  the  Columbia,  and  then  turn  up  the  banks  of  that  river.  The  range  we  have  just  crossed 
runs  along  the  river  below  the  point  at  which  we  struck  it,  and  bluff'  up  to  the  water.  Above 
this  point  the  range  keeps  back  from  the  river  on  the  left  of  the  trail,  and  strikes  the  Wenatsa- 
pam  two  miles  above  its  mouth.  Between  the  range  and  the  river  there  is  a  low  sandy  plateau, 
covered  with  s;ige  and  immense  masses  of  gneiss  rock  and  granite  boulders.  There  is  also  some 
sandstone  at  the  point  where  the  trail  turns  up  the  Columbia.  This  sandstone  is  soft,  and  has 
been  worked,  by  the  action  of  the  water  and  the  atmosphere,  into  curious  and  fantastic  shapes. 

Two  pillars  of  this  rock  stand  side  by  side,  out  upon  the  plateau,  between  the  range  and  the 
river,  and   are  peculiar   from  their  forms,  isolated  position,  and  the  curious  water- worn  holes 
through  their  tops.     The   Indians,  as  usual,  have  some  tradition   about  them  concerning  some 
body's  clouchman,  but  it  simply  resolves  itself  into  the  old  story  of  Lot's  wife  and  the  pillar  of 
salt.     I  wonder,  after  all,  if  the  old  patriarchs,  in  their  nomadic  days,  were  anything  better  than 
the  Indians  of  the  piesent  time,  and  if  the  story  of  Lot  and  his  inquisitive  wife   did   not  come 
down   before  the   time  of  Cadmus,  much  after  the  fashion  of  the  humble  tradition  of  these  poor 
savages  about  two  lone   sand  pillars  on   a  desert.     The  country  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Co 
lumbia  presents  a  very  desolate  and  barren  look.     It  is  a  high,  broken  plateau,  covered  with  fields 
of  broken  lava  for  miles  in  extent,  which  give  the  country  the  black,  barren  appearance  of  hav 
ing  been  burnt  over  by  fire.     There  is  a  higher  bluff  on  this  same  side  of  the  river  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Wenatsapam,  which  runs  off  to  the  northeast  in  a  rough,  barren  chain.     A  chain 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  commences  in   a  similar  bluffj  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  river, 
and  nearly  the   same  distance  above  the  Wenatsapam,  and,  running  along  the  Columbia,  closes 
in  on  this  river  about  five  or  six  miles  above.     The   country  between  this  range,  and  the  river 
is  a  low  plateau,  sandy  and  barren,  covered  with  wild  sage.     The  Wenatsapam  has  no  valley, 
and  runs  among  the  hills  towards  the  main  mountains  on  the  west.     This  river  is  about  seventy- 
five  feet  wide  and  three  feet  deep;  ford  good.     A  little  cotton-wood  grows  upon  its  immediate 
banks.     The  trail  follows  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Columbia,  from  Wenatsapam,  for  sixty  miles, 
to  Fort  Okinakane,   crossing   the  En-te-at-kwu,   Che-lum,   Methow,  and  Okinakane  rivers,  all 
branches  of  the  Columbia.     The  country  along  the  trail  throughout  this  distance  is  similar  in 
character.     The  river  has  no  valley;  the  bluffs  or  river  ranges  on  both  banks  coming  down 
close  to  it,  so  that  the  trail  is  constantly  crossing  high  plateaux,  or  passing  over  sharp  blufls 
running  down  to  the  water's  edge.     Some  of  these  bluffs  are  rough  and  stony,  and  very  danger 
ous  to  pass,  with  immense  granite  precipices   several  hundred  feet  high  overhanging  the  trail. 
The  most  difficult  of  these  passages  are  found  along  the  river  for  a  distance  of  six  or  seven 
miles   after  crossing  the  En-te-at-kwu   river.     There    are    low  plateaux,    narrow  and  wedge- 
shaped,  generally  found  at  the  junction  of  all  the  larger  streams,  lying  between  these  streams — 
the  river  range  and  the  Columbia.     At  such  places  the  range  lies  back  a  short  distance  from 
the  river,  but  soon  closing  on  it  again.     There   is  little  or  no  timber  along  the  Columbia — a  few 
straggling  pines,  or  patches  of  them,  only  occurring  at  intervals  here   and  there.     The  left  or 
opposite  bank  of  the  river  is  in  every  way  similar.    It  is  possible  that  timber  grows  upon  the  high 
table-land  on  top  of  the  ridge  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  but  it  cannot  be   seen  from  below, 
except  occasionally  through  gorges.     The  Columbia  is  generally  from  300  to  500  yards  wide, 
apparently  very  deep,  and  the  current  is  usually  very  rapid,  and  in  some  places  rough.     The 
rise  in  the  wet  seasons  is  about  twenty  feet,  judging  from   the   high- water  mark  on  the   banks 
and  on  the  trees.     These  small  runs   or  spring  branches  empty  into  the  Columbia  about  six 
miles  above  Wenatsapam,  and  the  En-te-at-kwu  comes  in  about  six  miles  above  them.     One  of 
the  low  plateaux  spoken  of  is  found  at  the  mouth  of  this  river  after  crossing  it.     It  is  entirely 
made  up  of  gravel  and  water-worn  shingle,  and  covered  with  granite  boulders ;  it  is  barren,  and 
on  its  upper  end  is  a  patch  of  scrubby  pines.    The  En-te-at-kwu  is  very  rapid,  bottom  rough  and 
filled  with  water-worn  stones.     It  is  thirty-five  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep.    The  spurs  coming 


TOPOGRAPHICAL    REPORT    ON    WESTERN    DIVISION.  213 

in  very  close  to  the  river  above  the  En-te-at-kwu,  it  is  found  necessary  to  avoid  them  about  eight 
miles  above  that  river,  passing  around  them  on  the  high  land  above.  In  the  wet  season  it  is  ne 
cessary  to  turn  off  even  before  reaching  this  point,  as  the  trail  passes  for  the  last  two  miles  just 
along  the  water's  edge.  The  trail  passes  up  to  the  high  land  through  a  gorge  formed  by  a  small 
mountain  brook,  and  again  comes  back  to  the  river  about  thirteen  miles  above.  Two  other 
small  spring  branches  enter  the  Columbia  about  two  miles  below  this  point.  The  mouth  of  the 
Chelan  is  ten  miles  above  it.  The  country  on  the  top  of  the  range  is  rough  and  broken,  and 
the  river  chain  is  intersected  by  several  cross  chains  running  nearly  east  and  west.  There  is  pine 
and  fir  on  the  top  of  this  table-land,  and  there  is  no  indication  of  it  on  the  left  or  eastern  bank, 
except  a  few  scattering  trees  on  the  margin  of  the  river;  we  may  lake  the  Columbia  as  the  eastern 
limit  of  timber  along  this  part  of  its  course.  Five  miles  after  leaving  the  river  the  trail  strikes 
the  edge  of  Chelan  lake,  and,  following  it  for  several  miles,  crosses  the  Chelan  river  at  the  point 
where  the  lake  debouches  into  it.  The  river  is  seventy  feet  wide  and  three  feet  deep ;  its 
length  to  the  Columbia  is  about  three  miles;  it  becomes  a  perfect  torrent,  and  is  very  crooked. 
About  eight  miles  of  the  lake  is  seen  lying  nearly  east  and  west.  Beyond  that  it  turns  more  to 
the  northwest,  and  is  hidden  behind  the  mountains.  From  the  Indian  information  received,  this 
lake  must  be  thirty-three  or  thirty-four  miles  long,  and  heads  in  the  main  chain  of  the  Cascades 
near  the  headwaters  of  the  Methow.  This  lake  is  over  a  mile  wide.  The  mouth  of  the  Me- 
thow  is  seventeen  miles  above  that  of  the  Chelan.  Between  these  streams  the  mountains  do 
not  come  so  bluff  up  to  the  river  as  they  have  done,  but  on  the  left  bank  they  come  down  to 
the  very  water's  edge,  but  are  not  so  high  as  they  have  been.  The  intermediate  country  is  a 
low,  sandy,  barren  plateau,  rocky  and  stony  in  places,  and  covered  with  large  water-worn 
boulders  for  two  miles  before  reaching  the  Methow.  This  river  is  sixty  feet  wide  and  two  and 
a  half  feet  deep;  current  rapid.  It  heads  in  the  main  Cascades,  and  forks  miles  above  its  mouth; 
one  fork,  the  main  Methow,  coming  in  from  the  northwest,  and  the  Twitsp  from  the  south 
west.  There  are  mountains  or  high  broken  table-lands  on  both  of  its  banks  throughout  its 
whole  extent.  It  has  a  narrow  valley  in  places,  but  the  river  is  so  crooked  that  these  valleys  are 
so  much  cut  up  as  to  be  unfit  for  any  purpose  whatever,  even  for  a  mule  trail.  This  river  is 
remarkable  for  the  terraces  on  its  banks  and  on  the  slopes  of  the  mountains  which  border  it.  In 
some  places  as  many  as  eighteen  successive  ones  are  visible.  These  terraces  are  also  found  on 
the  Wenatsapam  and  the  Okinakane,  and  similar  ones  occur  on  the  Columbia  between  the  mouths 
of  the  latter  streams.  These  facts,  taken  in  connexion  with  that  of  the  large  water-worn  boulders, 
and  immense  drifts  of  sand  and  shingle  on  the  low  plateaux,  at  the  mouths  of  the  Wenatsapam, 
En-te-at-kwu,  Methow,  and  Okinakane  rivers,  and  the  character  of  Lake  Chelan,  and  the  lakes  of  the 
Okinakane  river  at  the  present  time,  lead  me  to  suppose  that  at  one  time  all  these  rivers  were  long 
narrow  lakes,  which  have  since  broken  their  barriers  gradually,  only  by  some  violent  sudden  ac 
tion,  and  their  waters  drained  off  by  the  Columbia ;  and,  also,  that  a  lake  may  have  existed  even  in 
the  present  locality  of  the  Columbia  itself,  this  river  running  at  the  time  through  the  region  known 
as  the  "Grande  Coulee."  Between  the  Methow  and  the  Okinakane  the  river  range  on  the  right 
bank  runs  back  for  some  distance  from  the  river,  leaving  a  series  of  low,  sandy,  barren  plateaux, 
widest  towards  the  Okinakane ;  they  are  covered  with  wild  sage.  On  the  opposite  bank  the 
range  is  bluff  up  to  the  river,  and  obstructs  the  view  of  the  country  beyond,  so  that  its  character 
cannot  be  determined.  The  plateaux  on  the  right  bank  are  intersected  by  ravines,  or  deep 
arroyas.  A  stream  comes  in  two  and  a  half  miles  above  the  Methow,  and  high  mountains  run 
along  it,  increasing  in  height  from  the  Columbia.  A  trail  was  run  between  the  mouth  of  the 
Okinakane  and  the  forks  of  the  Methow  in  a  direct  line.  The  country  is  high,  rolling  and  broken, 
and  terraced  near  the  Columbia.  This  trail  crosses  the  small  stream  which  comes  in  above  the 
Methow.  Beyond  it  to  the  forks  the  country  is  well  timbered.  There  are  rough,  broken  rapids 
in  the  Columbia,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Methow — "  Ross  Rapids."  There  is  a  terraced  sandy 
plateau,  wedge-shaped,  between  the  Okinakane  and  Columbia.  It  is  three  miles  wide  and  seven 


214  TOPOGRAPHICAL    REPORT   ON    WESTERN    DIVISION. 

miles  long.     A  low  range  of  basaltic  hills  limits  it  on  the  east,  and  runs  nearly  north,  until  it  ends 
in  an  abrupt  bluff  on  the  Okinakane.     The  other  sides  are  limited  by  the  Okinakane  and  Columbia 
rivers.     The  soil  is  almost    worthless.     A   long  strip   of  plateau,   similar   in  character,  is  found 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Okinakane.     Fort  Okinakane  is  on  the  tongue  between  the  Columbia 
and  Okinakane  rivers,  near  the  former,  and  two  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  latter.     The  site 
of  Astor's  old  fort  is  very  near  the  junction  of  these  two  streams.     Thence  the  trail  follows  up 
the  banks  of  the  Okinakane,  crossing  from  one  bank  to  the  other,  for  eighty-seven  miles,  to  the 
lakes  be}-ond  the  forty-ninth  parallel.      For  three  miles   the  trail  is  over  the  low,  sandv  plateau 
spoken  of,  and  then  crosses  to  the  left,  to  avoid  the  bluffs.     After  fording  the  river,  the  trail  runs 
back  over  the  high  ground,  and  returns  to  it  again  thirteen  miles  beyond.     There  is  a  salt  lake 
on  each  side  of  the  trail,  three  miles  above  the  ford ;   the  largest,  three-quarters  or  one  mile  long, 
being  on  the  left.     A  carbonate,  or  some  similar  salt  of  soda,  is  found  as  impalpable  powder  on  the 
shores  of  these  lakes.     From  the  river  to  these  lakes  the  country  is  rough  and  basal  lie,  and  a 
great  deal  of  loose,  broken  lava  is  on  the   surface.     A  high  ridge    or  chain  runs  nearly  east  and 
\vest,  just  beyond  the  lakes,  intersecting  the  river  at  right  angles.     The  trail  crosses  this  ranye, 
the  ascent  being  gradual  through  the  gorge  of  a  small  stream  entering  the  larger  lake;    and  the 
descent  is  over  successive  terraces,  the   last  descent  being  abrupt  and  stony.     There  is  a  small 
salt  lake  on  the   north  of  the  top  of  the  divide,  from  which  the   water  runs  into  the  Okinakane. 
Aspen  grows  on  this  lake,  and  cotton-wood  on  the  small  streams  leading  from  it,  and   a  few- 
scattering  pines  are  on  the  ridge.     The  Okinakane  throughout  its  length  has  no  continuous  valley. 
Low  ranges  of  bald,  barren  mountains  coast  it,  but  not  continuously  ;  sometimes  running  close 
to  the  water's  edge,  at  others  lying  back  from  the  river  and  sending  out  spurs  to  it.     These 
sometimes  are  terraced  like  those  on  the  Methow,  but  not  to  the  same  degree.     13}-  running  into 
the  river   and  out  from  it,  these  river  ranges  form  plateau  valleys,  varying  from  a  simple  gorge 
to  one  or  two  miles  in  width.     The  Okinakane  receives  four  branches  from  the  west,  between 
the  mouth  and  the  forks.     The  largest  of  these  branches  is  the  Nistepehtsam,  twenty  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  it  is  twenty  feet  wide  and  eighteen  inches  deep;  they  are  all  fine, 
rapid  mountain  brooks.     There  is  a  fine  fall  in  the  Okinakane  river  thirty-three  miles  above  its 
mouth.     These  falls  are  horse-shoe  shaped,  the  convexity  being  up  stream;  full  of  water  five  feet. 
The  trail  crosses  to  the  left  bank  five  miles  above  the  falls,  and  three  streams  come  in  on  this 
side,  at  distances  of  one,  two,  and  four  and  a  half  miles,  respectively,  above  the  ford.     These 
streams  have  all  rapid  currents,  and  are  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  wide.     The  country  is  very 
gravelly,  and  the   soil  poor,  between  the  ford  and  the  forks,  ten   miles  above  it.     There  is  more 
timber  along  this  portion  of  the  river  than  heretofore,  cotton-wood,    &c.,   and  a  few  scattering 
pines.     The    mainstream,    Sahtlilkwu,  runs   nearly  north  above  the  forks;   the  other  fork,  the 
Millakilekwa,  bearing  to  the  northwest.     On  the  latter  river  there  is  a  fall  of  ten  feet    about 
four  miles  above  the  junction.     The  trail  follows  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Sahtlilkwu,  along  which 
the  country  has  much  the  same  character  as  before.     The   mountains,  however,  become   higher, 
and  have  a  growth  of  open -pine  upon  them.     There  are  four  large  lakes  on  this  river  above  the 
forks.     The  first,  the  Osoyoos,  commences  one  mile  above  the  forks,  and  is  ten  miles  long,  and 
over  a  mile  wide  ;  the  second  is  five  and  a  half  miles  long;  the  third  is  eight,  miles  long.     These 
lakes  are  very  deep  ;    but  two  sand-bars  project  from   about  the  middle  of  Osoyoos  from  either 
bank,  and  a  fording  is  practicable  at  this  point.     The  trail  goes  up  as  far  as   Lake  Okinakane, 
thirty-seven  miles  above  the  forks.     This  is  the  largest  and  longest  of  these  lakes,  and  stretches 
off  to  the  northward  into   British  territory  for  many  miles.     The   country  up  to  this  lake  is   as 
heretofore,  the  soil  very  sandy  and  gravelly.     Three  small  streams  come  into  Lake  Osoyoos  on  its 
eastern  side.  Leaving  Lake  Osoyoos,  the  trail  passes  up  through  the  gorge  of  one  of  these  streams, 
coming  in  near  the  lower  end  of  the  lake,  and  bears   eastward  to  the  Siyakan,  a  branch  of  the 
Nehoialpitkwu  river,  and  follows  down  this  stream  to  its  mouth.     Thence  the  trail  keeps  down  the 
banks  of  the  Nehoialpitkwu  (crossing  from  bank  to  bank,  as  necessity  requires,  to  avoid  the  high 


TOPOGRAPHICAL    REPORT   ON    WESTERN    DIVISION.  215 

bluff  spurs)  to  its  junction  with  the  Columbia,  two  miles  above  Fort  Colville.  The  distance  to  Fort 
Colvillc  from  the  lake  is  about  eighty-two  miles  by  the  trail,  and  it  is  about  twenty-two  miles  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Si}rahkan.  A  large  fork  (probably  the  main  stream)  comes  in  from  the  north  thirty- 
one  miles  above  the  mouth.  There  are  eleven  small  branches  of  the  Nehoialpitkwu  from  the  north, 
rapid  mountain  brooks  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  feet  wide,  and  seven  of  similar  character  from  the 
south,  including  the  Siyahkan.  The  ascent  to  table-land  from  the  lake  is  only  abrupt  in  places, 
and  is  lor  the  most  part  a  long  and  gentle  slope.  The  mountain  divide  is  high  terraced  to  its 
top,  summit  undulating  and  broken  in  places,  with  wet,  marshy  places,  and  small  spring  ponds, 
interspersed  over  it,  in  which  the  streams  rise.  The  descent  to  the  valleys  of  the  Siyahkan  and 
Nehoialpitkwu  is  gradual,  except  the  last  intermediate  descents  to  these  streams.  The  summit 
is  well  timbered  with  larch  and  pine,  and  some  aspen  and  maple  grow  in  the  wet  places.  Fine 
bunch-grass  grows  uniformly  over  this  range ;  it  is  soft  and  rounded  in  outline.  Looking  back  from 
the  summit  to  the  Casca.de  mountains  beyond  the  Okinakane,  they  present  a  series  of  parallel 
ranges  running  nearly  north  and  south.  These  ranges  appear  to  increase  in  altitude  towards  the 
main  range,  and  to  become  more  broken  and  harsh  in  outline.  They  were  covered  with  snow  at 
ihis  date — October  13th.  The  valley  of  the  Nehoialpitkwu  is  similar  to  those  of  the  Methow  and 
ihe  Okinakane.  The  mountains  along  it  are  heavier  and  higher  than  on  these  latter  streams,  and. 
heavily  timbered  with  larch,  pine,  fir,  and  cedar.  A  little  cotton-wood  grows  here  and  there  on 
the  margin  of  the  stream.  The  mountains  are  continuous  in  high  heavy  masses  at  intervals,  and 
then  again  run  back  from  the  river  and  fall  away  towards  it  in  isolated  hills  and  low,  sharp, 
broken  spurs.  The  trail  crosses  from  side  to  side  of  the  river  as  the  spurs  and  bluffs  require  it. 
There  is  a.  low  table-land,  over  which  are  scattered  a  great  manv  small  ponds,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  river,  five  or  six  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  Columbia  was  crossed  opposite  to  Fort  Colville. 
It  is  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide  at  this  point,  and  the  river  is  very  rapid.  The 
Soinetkwu  or  Kettle  falls  are  one  mile  below  the  crossing.  These  falls  are  about  ten  feet  high 
at  the  lower  falls,  and  about  fifteen  feet  high  at  the  upper  falls,  and  the  river  is  narrowed  to 
about  two  hundred  yards.  The  river  here  runs  nearly  north  and  south.  The  Slawntehus 
empties  into  the  Columbia  from  the  southeast  at  the  falls.  There  is  a  long,  narrow,  sandy 
plateau  at  Fort  Colvillc.  A  low  range  of  mountains  bound  it  on  the  east,  lying  back  from  the 
river.  The  chain  comes  bluff  up  to  the  river  again  below  the  mouth  of  the  Slawntehus.  The 
soil  of  this  plateau  is  sandy  and  gravelly;  fine  grass  grows  upon  parts  of  it.  From  Fort  Colville 
the  trail  bears  to  the  southeast  for  fifty-eight  miles  to  the  Spokane  river,  following  up  the  valley  of 
the  Slawntehus  and  down  the  valley  of  the  Chemakane.  Low  ranges  of  mountains  are  on  both 
sides  of  the  Slawntehus  near  Colville,  but  they  gradually  fall  off  in  altitude  as  they  proceed  to  the 
south,  and  break  up  into  irregular  hills  at  or  beyond  the  Spokane  river.  These  ranges  are  tim 
bered  with  larch  and  pine.  A  fine  valley  lies  along  the  Slawntehus  for  thirty-five  miles,  varying 
in  width  from  one  to  three  miles.  The  soil  of  this  valley  is  generally  good,  and  capable  of  pro 
ducing  any  of  the  crops  that  will  grow  in  this  latitude.  It  is  boggy  and  marshy  in  places,  arid  a 
great  deal  of  it  must  be  under  water  in  the  wet  season.  Much  of  it  can  be  reclaimed  by  draining. 
Several  settlements  are  made  in  the  valley  of  this  river.  This  river  differs  in  its  character  from 
those  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Columbia  river.  Its  banks  are  low  and  subject  to  overflow;  it  has 
a  valley;  and  the  current  is  more  sluggish.  It  is  very  crooked;  thirty-five  feet  wide,  and  from 
six  to  ten  feet  deep.  The  fords  are  from  three  to  three  and  a  half  feet  deep,  and  bottom  gravelly. 
The  Slawntehus  heads  in  a  low  range  of  mountains  running  northwest  and  southeast  about  forty 
miles  from  Colville.  It  has  four  eastern  branches,  the  Schlowskan  and  Kitsemmawhep  being  the 
largest  of  these  branches.  The  trail  up  to  the  divide  in  which  this  river  rises  is  very  good, 
and  is  fir  the  most  part  through  the  valley  over  level  county.  The  divide  is  timbered.  Crossing 
the  divide,  (in  which  the  Chemakane  also  rises,)  the  trail  keeps  down  the  valley  of  this  latter 
river  to  the  Spokane.  This  valley  terminates  about  five  miles  above  the  junction  of  the  river 
with  the  Spokane,  and  the  soil  for  a  mile  at  this  lower  end  is  good  for  farming :  the  other  portions 


216  TOPOGRAPHICAL   REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION. 

of  it  have  a  light  gravelly  soil ;  good  grass  grows  upon  it.  The  old  Presbyterian  mission  was 
situated  at  the  lower  end  of  this  valley.  The  valley  varies  from  one  to  two  miles  in  width,  and 
is  skirted  by  low  ranges  of  hills  well  covered  with  pine.  From  the  mission  the  trail  runs  over  a 
low  hilly  country,  covered  with  open  pine  woods,  to  the  Spokane  river,  leaving  the  Chemakane  on 
the  right.  The  descent  to  and  ascent  from  the  Spokane  river  is  abrupt  and  rocky.  There  is  a 
tolerably  good  diagonal  ford  at  this  point — bottom  gravelly  and  somewhat  stony.  This  river  is 
about  seventy-five  feel  wide  and  three  deep,  current  rapid.  A  very  precipitous,  high,  rocky  bluff 
is  on  the  left  bank,  half  a  mile  below  the  ford.  All  the  country  between  the  Slawntehus  and 
Chemakane,  westward  towards  the  Columbia  river,  is  more  or  less  mountainous  or  broken  by 
irregular  ranges.  These  mountains  are  higher  towards  the  north,  and  break  up  and  fall  off 

O  O  '-*  i 

towards  the  south  into  low  ranges  and  undulating  plains  in  the  great  Spokane  plateau.  The  trail 
bears  to  the  southwest  from  the  Spokane  river  across  this  plateau — crossing  the  Saptin  or  Lewis 
fork  of  the  Columbia  at  the  mouth  of  the  Peluse.  This  distance  is  seventy-six  miles.  There 
is  no  timber  on  this  plain,  except  a  few  narrow  strips  of  pine  wood,  which  stretch  out  to  the  west 
ward  from  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains  on  the  east.  These  strips  proceed  to  the  westward  no 
farther  than  the  trail,  and  are  confined  to  the  country  twenty-two  miles  from  the  Spokane  river. 
A  little  willow  and  cotton-wood  are  also  found  on  the  immediate  banks  of  the  streams,  but  in 
small  patches.  A  district  of  country  about  twenty-four  miles  wide  commences  twelve  miles 
south  of  the  Spokane  river,  and  runs  east  and  west  nearly,  which  is  the  highest  portion  of  the 
Spokane  plateau.  This  district  is  basaltic  and  broken,  and  is  covered  with  innumerable  small 
lakes  scattered  over  its  surface.  These  lakes  appear  to  occupy  the  craters  of  extinct  volcanoes, 
and  are  fissures  formed  by  the  bursting  of  lava  bubbles  on  cooling.  The  water  in  them  is  fresh, 
and  supplies  the  Peluse  and  its  branches.  These  lakes  are  of  all  sizes;  Silkatkwu  is  the  largest 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  trail.  It  is  five  miles  long,  and  varies  from  one-half  to  a  mile  in  width.  It  is 
drained  by  the  Stkahp,  a  branch  of  the  Peluse.  The  main  Peluse  also  rises  in  this  region  of 
lakes,  to  the  east  of  the  trail.  I  have  no  actual  observations  of  the  extent  of  this  lake  country 
to  the  east  and  west,  but  presume  that  to  the  westward,  particularly,  it  must  run  for  many  miles; 
at  least,  up  to  what  is  known  as  the  "Grande  Coulee,"  and,  perhaps,  over  to  even  the  great 
western  bend  of  the  Columbia  itself.  The  Spokane  plateau  embraces  all  the  country  included 
within  the  limits  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains,  the  Saptin,  Columbia,  and  Spokane  rivers. 
It  has  an  undulating  stratum  of  basalt,  which  is  covered  with  deposits  of  earth,  sand,  and 
gravel.  The  basalt  occasionally  crops  out,  particularly  on  the  lake  region  and  along  the  streams; 
and  large  irregular  masses,  pillars,  and  architectural  shapes  are  scattered  over  this  region.  The 
country  in  such  places  is  rough  and  broken,  and  covered  with  large  and  small  fragments  of  sharp 
fractured  lava.  The  earth,  sand,  and  gravel  form  rounded  undulating  chains,  or  isolated 
hills  or  buttes,  covered  with  wild  sage  and  grass,  the  grass  being  found  on  the  least  sandy 
portions.  The  plateau  generally  is  high  and  rolling,  and  destitute  of  timber.  The  soil 
is  light  and  unfit  for  cultivation.  Small  tracts  of  arable  land  are  found  near  the  larger 
lakes  and  the  heads  of  the  streams,  but  they  do  not  exceed  one  or  two  acres  in  extent. 
The  Cherahna  runs  in  a  basaltic  dalle  or  trough  for  most  of  its  length  ;  the  last  part  of  it,  before 
its  junction  with  the  Peluse,  being  in  a  canon  of  columnar  basalt.  The  Peluse,  from  the  point 
at  which  we  crossed  it,  runs  in  a  similar  deep  canon.  The  walls  of  the  trough  of  the  Cherahna 
are  not  more  than  twenty  feet  high.  A  few  stunted  willow  bushes  grow  in  these  canons  on  the 
immediate  banks  of  the  streams.  The  basaltic  walls  and  hills  along  the  Peluse  increase  in 
altitude  towards  the  Saptin.  The  Saptin,  at  the  crossing,  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
wide,  very  deep,  rough  and  rapid.  This  river,  at  this  point,  has  no  valley,  high  hills  running  on 
either  side  of  it.  The  Peluse  is  first  crossed  quarter  of  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of  the  Cherahna? 
and  the  trail  then  passes  over  the  hills,  leaving  the  river  some  distance  on  the  right,  and  comes 
down  to  it  again  three  and  a  half  miles  from  its  mouth.  Between  the  trail  and  the  river,  on 
the  right,  the  country  is  much  broken  and  very  rough,  with  a  good  deal  of  lava  on  the  surface. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL   REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION.  217 

To  the  left  the  country  is  hilly  and  sandy,  not  so  much  broken,  and  has  but  little  loose  lava  on  the 
surface.  The  descent  from  the  high  table-land  to  the  Peluse  is  over  successive  plateaux,  and 
gradual,  the  final  descent  being  very  abrupt  and  long.  Leaving  the  Saptin,  the  trail  passes 
over  ihe  range  between  this  river  and  the  Touchet,  bearing  to  the  west  of  south  ;  thence  in  same 
direction  for  nineteen  miles  to  the  old  Presbyterian  mission,  on  the  Wallah-Wallah  river,  twenty 
miles  above  its  mouth.  There  is  one  main  range  between  the  Saptin  and  Touchet,  made  up  of 
high,  rolling,  earthy  hills,  on  underlying  basalt.  These  hills  are  much  rutted  and  gullied  by  the 
action  of  water,  and  very  soft  and  rounded  in  outline.  They  are  covered  with  fine  bunch-grass, 
and  are  destitute  of  timber.  The  ascent  and  descent  are  gradual,  the  trail  passing  up  and  down 
the  ravines  between  the  slopes  of  the  hills.  The  Touchet  has  a  fine  grazing  valley  at  this  point, 
and  some  small  portions  of  it  are  good  for  farming.  This  valley  is  from  one  to  two  miles  wide ; 
a  fine  growth  of  cotton-wood,  and  some  wild-cherry  and  maple,  grow  along  the  margins  ot 
the  river.  The  Touchet  is  thirty  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep;  ford  good.  A  high  bluff  range 
commences  on  the  left  bank  half  a  mile  below  the  ford,  and  the  northern  side  of  the  valley  is 
bounded  by  a  high  range  of  soft  hills,  the  continuation  of  the  spur  crossed  over.  There  is  much 
the  same  character  of  country  between  the  Touchet  and  the  mission  on  the  Wallah-Wallah,  the 
hills  having  a  greater  tendency  to  single  isolated  hills,  than  to  continuous  ranges.  The  Wallah- 
Wallah  lias  a  fine  valley  at  the  mission  several  miles  wide.  The  valley  is  intersected  and  cut 
up  by  a  net-work  of  streams,  all  of  which  unite  some  miles  above,  and  the  main  stream  comes 
from  the  mountain  range  on  the  east.  A  second  large  branch  (probably  the  main  stream)  comes 
in  at  the  mission  from  the  south,  from  the  same  mountain  range.  This  range  follows  the  Wallah- 
Wallah  river  down  to  its  mouth,  and  unites  with  the  Basaltic  river  range  on  the  Columbia.  It 
becomes  basaltic  near  the  latter  river.  A  dry  bed,  with  cotton-wood  along  its  banks,  runs  along 
the  left  of  the  trail  as  you  come  from  the  Touchet,  and  crosses  it  five  miles  from  the  mission  ; 
thence  running  off  to  the  right,  it  comes  into  the  Wallah- Wallah  river  six  and  a  half  miles 
below  the  mission.  From  the  mission  to  its  mouth,  there  is  a  fine  valley  along  the  Wallah- 
Wallah,  some  portions  of  which  are  arable  and  capable  of  cultivation.  This  valley  is  limited 
by  a  range  of  hills  on  the  north,  which  close  into  the  river  at  the  mouth  of  the  dry  bed.  Fine 
growth  of  cotton-wood  flourishes  on  the  banks  of  the  Wallah-Wallah  at  this  portion  of  the  stream. 
All  the  country  from  the  mission  back  to  the  Saptin  is  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  bunch- 
grass  ;  and  the  valleys  of  the  Touchet  and  Wallah-Wallah  (at  the  mission)  present  more  favor 
able  advantages  for  grazing  ranches,  in  the  way  of  grass,  timber,  water,  nearness  to  settlements, 
and  mildness  of  climate,  than  almost  any  other  portions  of  the  Territory.  The  Wallah- Wallah 
makes  a  bend  to  the  south  at  the  point  where  the  dry  bed  comes  in,  and  the  trail  runs  over  the 
hills,  keeping  the  river  on  the  left.  The  trail  comes  down  to  the  river  again  six  and  a  half  miles 
above  its  mouth,  and  then  follows  down  the  narrow  strip  of  valley  along  this  part  of  the  river, 
and  frequently  crosses,  to  avoid  spurs  coming  in  from  the  right  and  left.  The  hills  get  higher  to 
the  north,  a  low  range  of  sand-hills  skirting  the  river  on  this  side,  and  becoming  very  rocky 
and  basaltic  near  where  the  trail  comes  down  to  the  river.  The  trail  crosses  the  Touchet, 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  above  its  mouth,  while  making  the  bend  over  the  hills  away  from  the 
Wallah-Wallah.  All  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Wallah- W^allah,  and  back  along  the  river  to 
where  the  dry  bed  comes  in,  is  very  sterile,  sandy,  and  barren,  and  the  sand  is  light  and  drifting. 
Nothing  but  wild  sage  grows  upon  it.  There  are  only  a  few  clumps  of  willow  bushes  along  the 
river  throughout  this  distance.  From  information  received  from  Hudson's  Bay  people  at  the  fort, 
this  same  sandy  character  of  country  is  found  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Columbia  to  the  Saptin. 
The  Wallah- Wallah  river  is  about  fifty  feet  wide,  two  feet  deep,  bottom  fine  and  gravelly. 
Leaving  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  the  trail  follows  down  the  left  southern  bank  of  the  Columbia, 
crossing  the  Umatilla,  the  Hokespam,  Nahhah  or  John  Day's,  and  the  Wanwawwie  or  Des  Chutes 
rivers,  near  their  junctions.  The  Columbia  along  this  section  is  rapid,  and  sometimes  rough, 
and  it  is  filled  with  numerous  sand  islands  and  basaltic  rocks.  It  is  about  five  hundred  or  six 
28/ 


218  TOPOGRAPHICAL    REPORT   ON   WESTERN    DIVISION. 

hundred  yards  in  width,  and  has  no  valley.  The  high  basaltic  terraced  range  of  hills  which 
has  been  following  the  Wallah-Wallah  for  some  distance  above  its  mouth,  turns  down  the 
Columbia  at  this  point,  and  follows  it  to  the  Dalles  in  an  almost  uninterrupted  chain.  This 
chain  varies  in  height,  and  is  only  broken  for  a  short  distance  between  the  Umatilla  and  Hokespam. 
A  similar  terraced  chain  commences  in  an  abrupt  bluff'  on  the  northern  bank,  two  miles  above 
Wallah-Wallah,  and  continues  uninterruptedly  to  the  Umatilla,  opposite  the  mouth  of  which 
it  suddenly  terminates  in  an  abrupt  bluff!  From  this  bluff  a  high  chain  runs  off'  from  the  river 
range  to  the  northeast.  The  river  chain  soon  commences  again  on  this  side  of  the  river,  and 
then  is  continuous  to  the  Dalles,  and  increases  in  altitude  in  that  direction,  and  runs  bluff'  up  to 
the  river  throughout.  There  is  no  timber  along  the  Columbia,  or  on  its  branches,  except  a  few 
clumps  of  willow  scrub,  and  but  little  grass.  The  basalt,  ceases  about  a  mile  above  the  Umatilla, 
and  commences  again  one  and  a  half  mile  above  the  mouth  of  the  Hokespam,  below  which  the 
river-chain  is  high  and  continuous.  The  trail  finds  its  way  over  high  terraces,  the  side-slopes  of 
the  river  ranges,  and  over  the  low  plateaus,  frequently  crossing  over  rocky  spurs  running  down  lo 
the  water's  edge.  Above  the  Umatilla,  and  between  the  Wanwawwie  and  the  Dalles,  it  leaves 
the  river  altogether,  and  passes  back  over  the  hills  on  the  left  to  avoid  the  rocky  and  more  diffi 
cult  places  along  the  river.  This  high  table-land  above  the  Umatilla  is  very  sandy  and  barren, 
and  produces  nothing  but  stunted  wild  sage  bushes.  The  sand  is  light  and  drifting.  Between 
this  river  and  the  Hokespam  the  country  rises  gradually  back  ;  a  light  line  of  sand-hills  runs 
parallel  to  the  river  about  a  mile  back,  and  this  country  is  very  sterile,  sandy,  and  barren.  The 
Umatilla  is  fifty  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  bottom  sandy,  and  ford  good.  The  Hokespam  is 
twenty-five  feet  wide  and  eighteen  inches  deep,  with  a  stony  bottom.  The  Mahhah  is  sixty  feet 
wide,  two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  gravelly  bottom,  and  fine,  good  crossing.  The  Wanwawwie  is 
notfordable;  it  is  thirty  yards  wide,  and  very  rough  and  rapid.  The  Hokespam  has  a  very 
narrow  valley.  Between  the  Wanwawwie  and  the  Dalles,  the  trail  passes  back  from  the  river 
and  crosses  two  ranges — one  between  the  Wanwawwie  and  the  Waiyum,  and  the  second 
between  this  stream  and  the  Columbia  at  the  Dalles.  The  trail  crosses  the  Waiyum  nine  and 
a  half  miles  from  the  Dalles  ;  the  river  then  runs  towards  the  Columbia  for  one  mile,  and  then 
turns  do\vn  parallel  to  it  and  empties  above  Fort  Dalles.  It  receives  a  branch  from  the  south 
east,  a  few  miles  above  Fort  Dalles.  This  country  is  high,  rolling  table-land,  covered  with 
good  bunch-grass.  At  the  Dalles,  the  Columbia  makes  a  bend  like  a  horse-shoe  towards  the 
south,  and  the  river  runs  through  a  basaltic  trough.  Walls  of  trough  about  twenty  ieelhigh; 
river  200  yards  wide;  rapid  current,  but  not  rough.  The  river  chain  on  the  northern  side 
continues  westward,  without  following  this  bend  in  the  river ;  thus  leaving  a  few  miles  of  com 
paratively  level  country,  but  very  rough  and  broken,  and  rocky.  There  is  a  low  valley,  four 
miles  long  and  one  mile  wide,  along  this  bend  on  the  southern  side,  but  it  overflows  at  high 
water.  Besides  the  Waiyum,  a  second  small  stream  enters  the  Columbia  at  the  bend,  from  the 
southwest.  A  third  comes  into  it  from  the  northern  side.  The  distance  from  the  Dalles  to  Forl 
Vancouver  was  made  by  water.  The  river  is  generally  rapid.  At  the  Cascades  it  is  loo  rocky, 
rough  and  rapid  to  be  navigated  ;  a  short  portage,  therefore,  is  necessary,  and  a  railroad  has  been 
constructed  for  the  purpose  on  the  northern  bank.  The  mountains  between  the  Dalles  and  the 
Cascades  are  timbered,  in  some  places  heavily  so,  and  become  higher  and  rougher.  Below  the 
Cascades  the  river-range  falls  off  into  low  spurs  and  hills,  which  terminate  a  short  distance  below 
Cape  Horn.  The  country  thence  is  level  on  both  sides  of  the  river  to  Vancouver,  and  is  heavily 
timbered.  The  highest  mountains  along  the  river  are  at  the  Cascades,  and  at  the  mouths  of  .the 
White  Salmon  and  Klikatat  rivers.  These  points,  therefore,  are  the  points  on  the  Columbia 
from  which  spring  the  main  Cascade  ranges,  which  run  to  the  north  up  to  Mount  St.  Helens 
and  Mount  Adams,  and  centre  in  Mount  Rainier.  Thence  one  main  chain  connects  with  Mount 
Baker,  and  another  runs  off  lo  the  northeast.  These  principal  chains  throw  out  innumerable  spurs  ; 
the  western  one  filling  up  with  high  mountain  table-land,  arid  low  hilly  ranges  most  of  the  country 


NATURAL   HISTORY   REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION.  219 

on  the  north,  up  to  the  very  shores  of  the  sound,  and  on  the  south  covering,  in  a  similar  manner, 
all  the  country  limited  on  the  west  by  a  broken  line  drawn  from  the  sound  to  a  point  on  the 
Columbia  a  few  miles  below  Cape  Horn.  The  eastern  range,  as  we  have  seen,  throws  out  high 
spurs  between  the  Yakima  and  its  branches,  covering  all  the  country  north  of  this  river  up  to  the 
Columbia.  As  there  is  another  high  range  running  northeast  from  the  mouth  of  the  Klikatat,  and 
only  terminating  with  the  Columbia  after  coursing  the  Yakima,  from  six  to  ten  miles  to  the  south 
of  it,  we  may  safely  infer  that  most  of  the  country  between  it  and  the  northern  river-range  of  the 
Columbia  is  either  mountainous  or  high,  broken  table-land.  The  country  east  of  the  Okinakane 
river,  and  north  of  the  Columbia,  having  been  found  mountainous,  the  Columbia  river  may  be 
taken  generally  as  the  eastern  limit  of  the  mountains,  or  of  high  mountainous  country.  The  main 
range,  and  all  the  territory  west  of  the  range,  are  heavily  timbered  with  pine,  fir,  larch  and  cedar. 
The  eastern  limit  of  timber  is  the  Columbia  river  from  Fort  Okinakane  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Wenatsbapam,  a  right  line  from  that  point  to  the  forks  of  the  Sahpenis,  and  a  right  line  thence 
to  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia.  The  soil  throughout  is  uniformly  light,  shallow  and  sandy* 
and  most  of  the  country  is  sterile,  barren  and  desolate,  unfit  for  the  purposes  of  agriculture, 
in  its  present  state,  and  incapable  of  being  reclaimed.  The  rivers  are  all  mountainous  in 
character  ;  currents  rough  and  rapid,  and  beds  stony.  The  variation  of  the  needle  is  east.  This 
variation  decreases  from  the  coast  as  you  proceed  eastward  to  the  main  Cascade  range  ;  beyond 
which,  in  the  same  direction,  it  increases  as  you  proceed.  I  am  not  aware  that  any  exact  ratio 
exists  in  this  increase  and  decrease.  The  following  examples  will  give  some  general  idea  of  the 
state  of  increase  and  decrease: 

At  Oly mpia,  the  variation  is 21° 

At  Fort  Vancouver,  the  variation  is 19°  45' 

At  Chequoss,  the  variation  is 16°    5' 

At  Ketetas,  the  variation  is 17°  34'  41" 

At  Wenatshapam,  the  variation  is 18°  50'  27" 

And  it  similarly  increases  towards  the  east.   The  minimum  is  about  16°. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  K.  DUNCAN, 
Second  Lieutenant  3d  Artillery. 

•Capt.  GEORGE  B.  MCCLELLAN. 


9.  NATURAL  HISTORY  REPORT  OF  DR.  j.  G.  COOPER,  NATURALIST,  OF  WESTERN  DIVISION. 

General  Notes  on  the  Natural  History. 

SIR:  The  country  traversed  by  your  division  presents  several  well  defined  and  very  distinct 
zoological  and  botanical  regions. 

The  limited  time  of  the  survey,  and  the  extent  of  country  traversed,  do  not  afford  sufficient  data 
for  defining  the  limits  of  these  regions  and  their  peculiar  products  with  accuracy,  but  I  will 
attempt,  in  the  following  sketch,  to  give  some  idea  of  their  outlines. 

It  will  be  observed  that  there  are  two  great  regions  very  distinct  and  peculiar  in  their  products, 
both  animal  and  vegetable,  that  of  the  forests  arid  that  of  the  plains.  The  first  of  these  is  divisible 
into  sub-regions — for  example,  the  alpine  summits  of  the  mountains  and  the  small  prairies.  The 
second  also  presents  several  sub-regions — for  example,  the  rocky  hills  and  the  sandy  valleys. 
The  rivers  and  their  immediate  banks  form  a  region  which  differs  but  little  in  products  on  either 
side  of  the  Cascade  mountains — nil  those  met  with  being  tributaries  of  the  Columbia.  All  the 
above  sub-regions  differ  more  or  less  in  the  animals  and  plants  peculiar  to  them,  as  may  be 
seen  from  the  collections  made,  and  the  notes  in  connexion  with  each  of  them. 


220  NATURAL    HISTORY    REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION. 

From  the  lime  of  leaving  Vancouver,  on  the  18th  of  July,  until  we  left  the  Oatblapoot'l  river, 
our  course  was  among  the  western  spurs  of  the  Cascade  mountains.  All  this  region  was  densely 
wooded,  except  a  few  small  prairies. 

The  principal  trees  of  this  region  were  the  three  species  of  Abies,  (spruce  and  fir,)  one  oak, 
two  maples,  one  dogwood,  one  ash.  The  characters  of  the  shrubs  were  two  wild  roses,  three 
Spiraeas,  an  elder,  and  the  "  Oregon  grape."  Near  the  streams  grew  several  species  of  raspberry, 
two  poplars,  and  various  willowsrwhich  were  seen  on  the  river  banks  throughout  the  country. 
Two  species  of  huckleberry,  a  red  and  a  blue  fruit  kind,  were  abundant  in  some  parts.  Very 
few  plants  were  in  flower  in  the  forest,  and  but  few  on  the  plain,  the  dry  season  being  accom 
panied  by  an  almost  complete  cessation  of  vegetation.  The  small  prairies  met  with  were  covered 
with  a  short  growth  of  grass,  then  dried  up,  and  around  the  borders  of  some  was  a  dense  growth 
of  Ptcris,  (fern)  reaching  above  a  man's  head,  and  almost  impassable  in  places.  Most  of  these 
prairies  are  covered  by  water  in  wet  seasons,  which  prevents  the  coniferous  trees  from  growing 
on  them,  and  assimilates  their  vegetation  to  that  of  the  river  banks.  Very  few  animals  were  met 
with  during  this  time;  the  hot  weather  was  probably  a  reason  for  their  scarcity — driving  them  to 
the  deep  shade  of  the  forests  and  the  higher  mountains,  where  a  later  continuance  of  rain  affords 
better  food  for  the  deer,  elk,  &c.  A  few  small  hares,  two  kinds  of  grouse,  and  pigeons,  were 
the  largest  game. 

Leaving  the  Cathlapoot'l  river  on  the  4th  of  August,  we  ascended  by  a  steep  and  continuous 
acclivity  to  the  higher  parts  of  the  mountains,  about  5,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Here 
the  alpine  region  commenced,  which  shows  itself  chiefly  in  the  different  class  of  plants  seen  and 
in  their  late  growth.  The  firs  of  the  western  slopes  were  replaced  by  two  spruces,  and  a  few 
pines  and  larches  began  to  appear.  The  five  snow-peaks  seen  at  a  distance  showed  that  trees 
ceased  to  grow  at  about  6,000  feet  above  the  sea-level,  though  vegetation  continued  much  higher  up. 
Strawberries,  which  were  gone  at  Vancouver  by  the  middle  of  June,  were  here  in  abundance. 
A  peculiar  species  of  huckleberry,  with  large  purple  and  finely-flavored  fruit,  abounded,  with 
another  producing  blue  fruit.  On  the  highest  hill  ascended  was  found  a  low  spreading  juniper, 
very  characteristic  of  alpine  vegetation.  The  grass  in  most  parts  was  still  green,  and  many 
flowers  continued  to  bloom.  Showers  of  rain  and  hail  descended  during  our  stay.  No  animals 
were  seen  peculiar  to  this  region,  p.nd  nearly  all  those  seen  on  the  west  side  continued  up  to  the 
highest  point  reached.  Cranes,  ducks,  and  geese  were  noticed — probably  remaining  up  in  these 
high  mountains  to  breed. 

On  the  9th  of  August  we  commenced  descending  the  eastern  slope  of  the  mountains,  and  at 
once  noticed  a  marked  change  in  the  vegetation.  Instead  of  the  dense  forest  of  firs  covering 
the  western  side,  the  prevailing  trees  were  two  species  of  pines  and  a  few  oaks;  these  stood  at 
distances  of  thirty  and  fifty  feet  apart,  and  the  ground  underneath  was  open,  smooth,  and  covered 
with  a  good  growth  of  grass. 

A  Ceanothus  with  fragrant,  shining  leaves,  was  the  most  abundant  and  characteristic,  other 
shrubs  appearing.  Most  of  the  plants  of  this  region  had  passed  flowering,  and  the  soil  was 
already  very  dry.  Excepting  a  small  prairie  surrounding  a  lake,  this  forest  continued  on  our 
course  for  about  seventy  miles.  The  plants  found  in  flower  on  this  side  the  mountains  were 
nearly  all  collected.  Very  few  animals  were  seen  in  the  forest;  a  few  elk,  deer,  and  cayotes 
being  the  principal. 

Approaching  the  borders  of  the  plains,  some  plants  peculiar  to  them  were  observed,  generally 
scattered  and  stunted  in  growth.  The  pines  also  became  smaller  and  more  scattered,  ending 
rather  abruptly  at  last. 

August  13. — We  entered  suddenly  upon  the  plain  region,  which  we  continued  to  traverse  for  a 
great  part  of  the  remainder  of  the  route.  From  observations  made,  I  am  able  to  mark  out  the 
western  and  northern  limits  of  this  region  in  Washington  Territory.  Commencing  at  the  Columbia 
river,  opposite  the  Dalles,  the  line  of  forest  growth  runs  northwesterly,  crossing  the  eastern  spurs 


NATURAL   HISTORY   REPORT   ON   WESTERN   DIVISION.  221 

of  the  Cascade  mountains,  about  as  far  as  48°  of  latitude.  From  here  north  it  is  less  defined, 
the  forests  and  plains  being  intermingled  up  to  49°;  the  summits  and  northern  exposure  of  the 
hills  being  covered  by  forests,  while  the  valleys  and  southern  slopes  are  nearly  destitute  of  trees. 

Returning  to  the  south  from  Fort  Colville,  we  again  met  with  the  open  plains  a  little  south 
of  the  Spokane  river,  which  may,  therefore,  be  considered  their  northern  boundary  east  of  the 
Columbia.  Towards  the  east  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains  were  seen,  covered  with  forest, 
limiting  the  plain  in  that  direction.  "  The  Plains  "  comprise  not  only  high  and  almost  level  table 
lands,  but  steep  hills  and  deep  valleys.  South  of  the  Snake  and  Columbia  rivers  all  the  country 
passed  through  was  of  this  character.  The  vegetation  of  these  various  sub-regions  is  very  dis 
similar  ;  on  the  high  spurs  east  of  the  mountains,  commonly  veiy  stony  and  dry,  scarcely  any 
plants  were  flowering  during  our  journey.  Artemisia  or  "wild  sage,"  and  Purshia  or  "  grease- 
wood,"  were  the  characteristic  shrubs.  The  withered  remains  of  some  umbelliferous  and  other 
plants  were  noticed,  and  grass  was  poor  and  dry.  Tn  the  valleys  a  sandy  but  better  soil  pre 
sented  several  different  vegetable  sub-regions.  The  high  gravelly  terraces  bordering  some  of  the 
valleys  were  covered  with  a  dry  but  dense  growth  of  grass.  Near  the  streams  occurred  some 
rose  and  cherry  bushes,  the  usual  poplar  and  willows,  and  a  few  small  birch  and  pine  trees, 
with  some  flowers  still  blooming.  North  of  the  Yakima  the  larch  tree  was  abundant  on  the 
mountains,  with  the  long-leaved  pine  and  the  black  fir,  in  nearly  equal  proportions.  Near  Fort 
Colville  a  few  birch  trees  of  large  size  were  seen,  having  a  laminated  bark,  of  which  the  Indians 
make  canoes.  The  vegetation  of  the  Spokane  plains  resembles  that  west  of  the  Columbia  river, 
as  far  as  could  be  seen,  from  its  withered  state,  when  we  passed  through  it.  Among  the  animals 
peculiar  to  the  plain  region,  the  most  remarkable  are  the  badger,  "  sage  fowl,"  sharp-tailed  grouse 
or  prairie  fowl,  horned  lizards,  and  rattlesnakes. 

South  of  the  Snake  liver,  to  the  north  of  the  Wallah-Wallah,  the  country  resembles  that  near 
the  Yakima  river,  but  the  hills  are  better  covered  with  grass,  and  the  valleys  more  fertile. 
Several  peculiar  plants  were  seen  here.  From  the  southern  banks  of  the  Columbia,  to  the  south 
west,  we  could  see  a  mixed  country  of  high  table-lands  and  undulating  "plains,  with  the  wooded 
outline  of  the  Blue  mountains  in  the  distance.  After  entering  the  gap  of  the  Cascade  mountains 
at  the  Dalles,  the  forest  again  appeared  with  a  similar  succession  of  trees  from  east  to  west 
(described)  when  crossing  them  (in  the  opposite  direction)  in  August.  A  much  milder  climate 
prevailing  on  the  west  side  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  was  accompanied  by  the  second  flowering 
of  several  species  of  plants  in  November  and  December.  Among  those  seen  were  the  straw 
berry,  blue  and  yellow  violets,  and  various  garden  plants. 

Besides  the  animals  seen  or  collected  on  the  route,  several  are  said  to  inhabit  the  forests.  The 
deer,  (two  species,)  black  bear,  and  a  brown  variety  of  lynx  and  racoon,  are  not  uncommon. 
Beavers  are  said  to  be  found  on  the  streams,  where  the  mild  winters  preclude  the  necessity  of 
building  dams  to  prevent  the  water  from  freezing  too  deep.  The  panther  or  cougar  is  also 
reported  to  be  sometimes  found.  The  mountain  sheep  undoubtedly  inhabits  the  limits  of  per 
petual  snow — a  skin  being  seen  in  possession  of  an  Indian  near  Mount  Rainier. 

The  rivers  flowing  into  the  Columbia  have  a  peculiar  animal  as  well  as  vegetable  character, 
which  is  much  the  same  on  both  sides  of  the  mountains.  Several  kinds  of  water-bird  frequent 
them,  especially  in  the  autumn,  only  emigrating  to  the  west  side  in  winter. 

Three  fine  species  of  trout  were  obtained,  but  unfortunately  destroyed ;  one  of  them  appears 
to  be  peculiar  to  the  streams  on  the  eastern  side.  A  few  other  kinds  of  fish  were  also  seen.  A 
collection  of  all  the  fresh-water  shells  seen  was  made.  A  species  of  crawfish  was  met  with,  even 
to  the  headwaters  of  its  branches,  and  in  the  Columbia  occurs  eight  and  ten  inches  long.  It  is 
said  to  be  a  very  good  substitute  for  lobsters  as  an  edible. 

Respectfully,  &c.,  J.  G.  COOPER,  M.  D. 

Capt.  G.  B.  McCLELLAN, 

Corps  of  Engineers,  Commanding  Expedition. 


222  REPORT    ON    DEAD   COLT    HILLOCK    LINE. 

D. 

SURVEY  FROM  THE  MISSISSIPPI  TO  THE   BASE  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

10.  REPORT  UPON  THE  "DEAD  COLT  HILLOCK"  LINE,  BY  LIEUT,  c.  GROVER,  u.  s.  A. 

FORT  UNION,  August  7,  IS/53. 

SIR  :  On  the  25th  of  June  ultimo,  I  had  the  honor  to  receive  the  following  orders  from  your 
office,  viz : 

"  NORTHERN  PACIFIC  R.  R.  EXPLORATION,  CAMP  MARCY,  PIKE  LAKE, 

June  V5,  1853. 

"DEAR  SIR:  You  will,  in  charge  of  a  detached  party  consisting  of  twenty-one  picked  men, 
two  wagons  and  thirty-three  animals,  leave  the  Red  River  trail  at  this  point,  and  crossing  the  Bois 
des  Sioux  near  Lake  Travers,  and  proceeding  in  the  general  direction  of  Dead  Coll  Hillock,  con 
tinue  your  course  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone.  Make  the  best  survey  of  the  country  the 
means  placed  at  your  disposal  will  furnish.  With  the  Scbmalcalder  compass,  odometer,  and  the 
meteorological  instruments,  you  will  be  able  to  get  a  reliable  line  and  profile  of  your  route.  It 
is  desirable,  if  practicable,  to  connect  your  line  with  Lieutenant  Donelson's  survey  of  the  Missouri, 
at  some  eligible  point,  as  Fort  Berthold.  Whether,  and  at  what  point  this  shall  be  done,  is  left 
to  your  own  judgment.  The  great  necessity  is  to  reach  the  Yellowstone,  and  be  in  readiness  for 
the  work  beyond.  Your  party  has  been  selected  with  care,  to  enable  you  fully  to-accomplish  its 
purposes;  and  I  have  the  most  entire  confidence  in  its  complete  success.  I  shall  continue  on  a 
more  northern  course,  and,  operating  much  with  detached  parties,  I  hope  the  labors  of  the  ex 
pedition  will  result  in  a  g  >od  exploration  of  the  country  from  the  Missouri  to  tlie  Miniwakan 
lake.  Lieutenant  Donelson  has  instructions  to  survey  the  Missouri  to  the  mouth  of  Milk  river, 
and  the  country  north  of  Fort  Union,  from  White  Earth  river  (western  boundary  of  Minnesota) 
to  the  Porcupine.  I  trust  you  will  reach  Fort  Union  before  the  main  party;  in  which  case, 
assume  command  of  the  whole  force  brought  together  there,  and  communicate  directly  \vith  the 
Secretary  of  War,  should  an  opportunity  to  send  letters  occur. 

"  We  shall  undoubtedly  hear  of  each  other  frequently  on  the  route,  and  through  Indian  runners 
have  the  means  of  communicating  with  each  other.  With  vigilance  and  firmness  I  have  no  fear 
of  stampedes  or  disaster;  and  it  is  important  that  great  care  should  be  taken  as  to  placing  the 
least  reliance  upon  any  rumors  of  the  sort.  They  will  instantly  be  spread  without  the  least 
foundation  for  them. 

"  Lieutenant  C.  GROVER, 

"  4th  Artillery,  U.  S.  A." 

Pursuant  to  the  above  order,  my  detachment  having  been  organized,  1  left  Pike  lake  about 
eight  o'clock  a.  m.  on  the  twenty-fifth  day  of  June,  and  took  up  a  course  of  north  seventy-eight 
(7S°)  west.  The  general  course  I  kept  to  a  series  of  lakes  known  as  Moose  Island  lakes,  whence 
circumstances  rendered  it  advisable  to  deflect  some  distance  to  the  south,  and  follow  up  the  east 
ern  bank  of  Lake  Travers  and  Bois  des  Sioux  river  to  the  crossing  contemplated  in  my  instruc 
tions.  Between  Pike  lake  and  the  Pom  me  de  Terre  river  a  more  sudden  declination  occurs, 
leaving  a  valley  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  wide.  The  currents  of  these  streams  are  rapid, 
and  their  bottoms  sandy,  with  a  width  of  about  twenty  ('20)  yards  in  ordinary  stages  of  water. 
To  the  west  of  the  last  named  river,  for  a  few  miles,  this  uneven  country  continues,  gradually 
falling  off  to  an  almost  perfectly  level  prairie,  to  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  with  the  exception  of  a  slight 
rise  near  the  Rabbit  river.  West  of  the  Bois  des  Siou\,  which  is  a  broad,  marshy  stream,  but 
with  a  sandy  bottom  at  some  few  points,  a  similar  level  prairie  extends  to  near  Dead  Colt  Hillock, 
between  which  and  James  river  on  a  diiect  line  the  country  is  high  and  blufly.  But  by  dehYet- 
ing  to  the  south,  passing  between  Dead  Colt  Hillock  and  Lake  Kandiotta,  and  crossing  the 


REPORT   ON   DEAD   COLT   HILLOCK   LINE.  223 

James  river  below  the  mouth  of  Grizzly  Bear  creek,  there  is  no   obstacle  to   a  railroad  line 
worthy  of  notice. 

Thence,  only  gradually  rising  and  falling  surfaces  occur  on  our  line  to  the  Wild  Rice  river, 
between  the  valley  of  which  and  that  of  the  James  river  but  moderate  grades  will  be  necessary. 

On  the  2d  of  July  we  camped  on  the  right  bank  of  the  former  stream,  which  was  apparently 
somewhat  swollen  by  recent  rains.  Its  banks  are  sparely  wooded  with  oak  and  elm,  and  rise 
from  ten  (10)  to  twenty  (20)  feet  above  its  bed.  This  stream  was  kept  to  our  right  until  the 
morning  of  the  fourth,  when  we  crossed  it,  leaving  it  some  distance  to  the  left. 

The  Jarnes  river  is  about  forty  (40)  yards  wide,  and  pursues  a  sinuous  course,  with  a  sluggish 
current,  through  a  broad,  deep  valley. 

Below  a  small  hillock  known  as  Butte  des  Os,  a  very  little  wood  is  to  be  found  ;  but  opposite 
that  point,  and  from  the  amount  of  drift  upon  the  banks,  probably  above  there,  oak  is  quite  abund 
ant.  The  western  bank  gains  its  whole  rise  of  about  eighty  (80)  or  ninety  (90)  feet  above  the  bed 
of  the  stream  within  two  miles,  and  extends  back  in  broad  "undulations,  having  but  slight  differ 
ences  in  general  level  to  the  Coteau  of  the  Missouri.  Near  the  James  river  there  occur  many 
deep  ravines,  some  of  which  have  small  streams  of  water  in  their  bottoms,  and  upon  their  banks 
some  scattering  oaks.  They  extend  back  from  the  river  some  three  or  four  miles. 

The  Coteau,  so  called,  which  I  struck  in  forty-three  (43)  miles  from  Butte  des  Os,  on  a  course 
of  north  52°  30'  west,  consists  of  broad  ranges  of  high  bluffs,  thrown  up  without  any  particular 
order,  to  the  height  of  about  one  hundred  (100)  feet  above  the  general  level  of  the  broad  plateau 
at  its  base.  The  country  gradually  becomes  higher  and  more  rolling  as  these  bluffs  are  ap 
proached,  and  the  actual  point  of  change  from  rolling  to  bluffy  can  hardly  be  distinguished. 
For  nearly  thirty  (30)  miles  on  the  line  which  I  pursued  after  first  striking  the  Coteau,  this 
bluffy  character  prevails ;  after  which  it  gradually  falls  down  to  rolling  for  about  six  (6)  miles, 
when  the  trail  again  struck  a  point  of  bluffs.  But  all  of  this  heavy  country,  after  the  first  twenty 
(20)  miles  of  the  Coteau,  can  be  avoided  by  deflecting  four  or  five  miles  to  the  left  of  the  line 
of  march  between  camps  July  10th  and  July  llth,  and  crossing  to  the  right  about  six  (6)  miles 
from  camp  July  llth,  and  keeping  around  the  bluffy  points  crossed  by  the  trail  on  the  12th  July, 
and  within  some  four  or  five  miles  of  the  trail,  in  the  same  general  direction,  to  the  main  branch 
of  James  river,  which  at  this  point  is  very  small.  The  valley  of  this  stream  can  be  followed  up, 
with  but  a  slight  deflection  from  the  direct  course,  to  near  the  head  of  one  of  its  branches,  about 
twenty  (20)  miles. 

From  thence  to  Mouse  river  the  country  is  gently  rolling.  Following  up  the  valley  of  the 
Mouse  river,  the  same  general  topographical  character  is  found  to  exist,  as  far  as  my  recon 
naissance  extended,  and  this  high  bluffy  country  extends  nearly  in  a  general  northwesterly  direc 
tion  as  far  as  the  49th  parallel  of  latitude,  though  its  character  becomes  less  abrupt  as  more 
northing  is  made.  With  regard  to  the  soil,  wherever  deep  cuts  are  necessary  it  has  been  found 
to  consist  of  small  rolling  stones  and  gravel,  intermixed  with  upland  soil,  and,  as  a  general  thing, 
such  as  to  be  easily  worked.  Granite  and  sienitic  boulders,  from  a  ton's  weight  downwards, 
are  frequently  found,  but  not  in  sufficient  quantity  to  be  of  service  as  a  building  material.  Sand 
is  found  in  abundance  at  but  one  point,  viz:  Lightning's  Nest,  a  series  of  sand-hills  of  several 
miles  in  extent,  which  would  supply  an  inexhaustible  amount  for  ballasting.  Wood  was  not 
found  in  any  quantity,  ex;cept  on  the  Mouse  river,  which  is  quite  heavily  timbered  with  maple, 
ash,  and  elm. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

C.  GROVER, 

Second  Lieutenant  4?A  Artillery. 
His  Excellency  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  N.  P.  Railroad  Exploring  Expedition. 


224  CROSSINGS   OP   THE   MISSISSIPPI. 

11.  REPORT  OF  MR.  F.  w.  LANDER,  ASSISTANT  ENGINEER,  OF  THE  CROSSINGS  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 

ST.  PAUL,  May  22,  1S53. 

SIR:  In  receiving  your  instructions  in  regard  to  a  reconnaissance  of  the  upper  Mississippi  for 
a  railroad  crossing,  I  was  directed  to  view  this  subject  with  reference  to  a  feasible  connexion 
with  Lake  Superior,  to  choose  a  point  which  should  not  interfere  with  steamboat  navigation,  and 
one  that  would  occupy  a  favorable  position  for  joining  the  main  lines  east.  With  these  quite 
definite  instructions  to  guide  my  examinations,  I  have  made  actual  reconnaissance  of  the  river 
from  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Kipley,  and  beg  leave  to  submit  the  following  report: 

At  the  ferry  near  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  at  the  rapids  near  the  mouth  of  Sauk  river,  at 
several  points  for  two  miles  above  these  rapids,  at  the  ferry  near  Swan  river,  and  at  Little  Falls, 
I  have  found  locations  for  crossing  the  river  with  a  railroad  bridge.  The  first  of  these,  near  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  is  about  eight  hundred  (800)  feet.  It  does  not  occupy  so  favorable  a 
position  in  regard  to  a  connexion  with  Lake  Superior  as  either  of  the  other  points.  The  crossing 
is  much  greater  in  length,  and  the  quantity  of  masonry  larger,  than  at  those  farther  north. 
The  cost  of  this  masonry  is  excessive,  from  the  necessity  of  bringing  the  material  for  con 
struction  from  Sauk  rapids.  The  distance  to  "Dead  Colt  Hillock,"  a  point  near  the  course  of 
survey,  is  not  less  by  this  crossing  than  by  passing  over  the  fine  gravel  country  east  of  the  Mis 
sissippi  to  Sauk  rapids.  The  water  is  deeper  and  the  current  much  more  swift  than  at  any  of 
the  other  points.  Passing  west  the  country  is  thickly  wooded,  springy,  entirely  impassable  for 
wagons,  and  inducing  additional  cost  in  grubbing  and  culvert  masonry.  I  deem  this  crossing 
the  least  favorable  of  those  I  have  examined. 

Eighty  miles  north  from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation,  and 
near  the  mouth  of  Sank  river,  occur  several  f  tvorable  crossings,  nearly  similar  in  character. 
These,  with  the  routes  connected,  should  at  some  future  period  be  subjected  to  a  careful  survey, 
the  limited  time  allowed  for  the  present  examination  necessarily  confining  my  attention  to  recon 
naissance.  The  first  of  them,  near  the  mouth  of  Sauk  river,  is  about  five  hundred  (500)  feet. 
By  encountering  the  rapid  current  near  the  falls,  excellent  foundation  for  bridge  masonry  can 
be  obtained  upon  the  granite  ledge  of  the  section.  Within  two  miles  are  five  other  points,  none 
exceeding  six  hundred  (600)  feet  in  length.  The  adjoining  ledge  furnishes  granite  of  suitable 
quality  for  heavy  masonry. 

I  have  estimated  cost  of  bridge  at  Sauk  rapids  for  a  road-bed  of  twenty  (20)  feet  as  follows, 


500  feet  Howe's  truss,  at  twenty-five  (25)  dollars $12,500 

1,353  cubic  yards  bridge  masonry,  at  twelve  (12)  dollars 16,236 

Preparing  foundations,  say 1,000 


$29,736 


Five  miles  farther  north,  near  the  mouth  of  river  Watab,  occurs  a  crossing  four  hundred  (400) 
feet  in  length,  with  excellent  foundations  of  granite  ledge.  This  crossing  is  so  situated  as  to  induce 
cutting  of  about  twenty  (20)  feet  in  hard  material  upon  each  shore  of  the  river — say  twenty 
thousand  yards,  at  forty  (40)  cents,  or  $8,000.  The  adjacent  ledge  not  being  of  suitable  quality 
for  building,  the  material  for  masonry  must  be  brought  from  Sauk  rapids.  The  location  is  neither 
so  feasible  of  approach,  nor  possessing  so  great  a  facility  for  getting  west,  as  that  at  Sauk 
rapids,  although  the  passage  of  the  river  is  shorter,  and  the  current  not  so  swift. 

Twenty-four  miles  north  of  Watab,  near  the  mouth  of  Swan  river,  is  a  crossing  four  hundred 
and  fifty  (450)  feet  in  length.  It  has  no  advantage  over  those  at  Sauk  rapids.  The  abutment 
foundations  must  be  obtained  by  piling,  and  pier  foundations  adjusted  by  cofler-dam,  or  winter 
crib-work.  The  current  is  not  swift;  the  water  about  eight  feet  in  depth. 


CROSSINGS  OP  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  225 

Four  miles  north  of  this  point,  at  the  island  near  Little  Falls,  is  a  very  favorable  crossing  of 
three  hundred  and  twenty-five  (325)  feet. 

Four  wing-abutments,  and  a  slight  increase  of  truss,  will  be  required,  from  the  destructible 
nature  of  the  ledge  foundation,  which  is  slate-rock,  strongly  impregnated  with  iron,  and  affected 
by  the  atmosphere.  Two  short  bridges  would  be  necessary — one  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
(125)  feet,  crossing  each  branch  of  the  river  to  island  ;  thence  embankment  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  (150)  feet;  thence  bridge  span  of  two  hundred  (200)  feet  over  main  channel  of  the  river. 
The  actual  width  of  the  main  channel  here  is  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  (175)  feet,  and  the 
whole  crossing  the  best  upon  the  Mississippi  from  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Ripley. 

The  boulders  upon  the  hill-sides  in  this  vicinity  afford  good  granite  for  light  masonry.  The 
magazine  at  Fort  Ripley  is  built  of  these  boulders,  but  they  are  not  abundant,  neither  do  they 
furnish  blocks  of  sufficient  size  for  exposed  bridge  abutments  ;  the  material  for  this  purpose  must 
be  brought  from  Sauk  rapids,  thirty-two  miles  below. 

The  country  on  each  side  of  the  Mississippi,  from  St.  Paul  to  Little  Falls,  presents  facilities 
for  railway  construction  I  have  never  seen  exceeded.  One  hundred  and  twenty  miles  of  level  or 
slightly  rolling  gravel  plain  supersedes  all  necessity  for  ballasting,  and  affords  peculiar  advantages 
for  forming  an  embankment  road-bed,  the  very  best  mode  of  construction  for  guarding  against 
the  snows  and  frosts  of  a  northern  climate. 

Passing  west  from  Little  Falls,  I  find  no  serious  difficulty  to  encounter  over  a  route  which  had 
been  represented  to  me  as  very  severe.  The  country,  to  be  sure,  is  broken,  the  ground  springy, 
and  the  cost  of  moving  material  will  evidently  exceed  that  of  the  line  east  of  the  Mississippi- 
There  is  a  greater  quantity  of  earth  to  be  excavated,  and  quite  an  increase  in  the  amount  of  cul 
vert  masonry.  Still,  the  surface  presents  a  favorable  aspect  for  good  alignment.  No  cut  will 
exceed  twenty  feet ;  there  is  no  appearance  of  ledge ;  and,  by  exercising  some  degree  of  care  in 
location,  an  excellent  route  can  be  obtained. 

I  have  no  knowledge  of  this  line  extending  beyond  Long  prairie.  It  is  represented  to  me  as 
broken  into  sharp  ridges,  very  swampy,  and  quite  thickly  wooded. 

Summing  up  this  matter,  it  seems  evident  that  the  proper  course  of  the  survey  would  be  from 
St.  Paul  up  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Mississippi  to  Sauk  rapids ;  thence,  near  the  Red  river  trail, 
towards  the  headwaters  of  the  Sauk.  Sufficiently  reliable  information  is  afforded  to  prove  to 
us  that  a  very  favorable  route  can  thus  be  secured.  The  passage  of  the  Mississippi  is  made  at 
a  point  that  does  not  interfere  with  steamboat  navigation.  It  affords  all  necessary  advantages 
to  a  communication  with  Lake  Superior,  is  in  a  favorable  position  as  regards  an  eastern  con 
nexion,  and  will  thus  insure  the  proper  direction  of  capital  in  the  location  of  private  lines.  The 
crossing  at  Little  Falls  is  nearer  a  direct  route  from  the  Pacific  to  Lake  Superior,  and  therefore 
worthy  serious  notice;  yet  it  is  evident  that  the  interests  of  private  companies  should  not  be 
neglected,  and  that  those  operations  should  be  fostered  which,  in  efforts  to  develop  the  resources 
of  this  rich  country,  will  add  their  share  to  the  importance  of  our  great  enterprise,  and  aid  in 
bringing  it  to  a  successful  termination. 

Passing  through  a  country  already  forward  in  vegetation,  and  presenting  every  facility  for 
expediting  the  progress  of  the  survey,  the  route  at  Sauk  rapids  is  superior  to  all  others  in  the 
features  required  by  your  letter  of  instructions. 

Submitting  this  result  of  my  examinations,  I  remain,  with  respect,  your  obedient  servant, 

F.  W.  LANDER. 

Governor  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Exploring  Expedition. 

In  reference  to  the  best  crossing  of  the  Mississippi,  in  a  report  to  me  from  Fort  Union,  sub 
mitted  May  8,  1853,  the  opinion  that  the   crossing    at  Sauk  rapids  should  be   selected  was 
29/ 


226  RECONNAISSANCE  OF   THE   THREE   BUTTES. 

modified  by  Mr.  Lander,  and  the  reasons  were  given  for  preferring  the  Little  Falls  route  as 
follows,  viz: 

In  approaching  the  valley  of  the  Missouri,  the  line  crossing  the  Mississippi  at  Sauk  rapids  does 
not  preserve  the  importance  given  it  in  former  reports.  The  scarcity  of  suitable  timber  for  bridg 
ing  and  the  light  structures  required  in  partial  grading  of  the  road,  that  the  railway  may  be  used 
for  transportation  of  material  for  forwarding  it  to  an  early  completion  at  low  cost,  cannot  be  too 
fully  considered.  For  this  reason,  T  will  again  refer  to  the  route  by  the  Little  Falls,  already  given 
an  important  character  in  my  report  of  the  crossings  of  the  Mississippi.  The  route  by  Little  Falls 
does  not  occupy  so  favorable  a  position  in  regard  to  an  eastern  connexion  as  that  crossing  the 
Mississippi  at  Sauk  rapids,  but  is  more  nearly  direct  towards  Lake  Superior.  The  crossing  is  the 
best  upon  the  Mississippi,  and  the  facilities  for  construction  very  great.  While  passing  through 
the  pine  region  of  the  northern  Mississippi,  and  the  wooded  district  extending  to  the  Red  river,  it 
assumes  a  high  character — viewed  in  connexion  with  the  present  subject — "the  scarcity  of  timber 
for  building  purposes  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Missouri." 

In  a  report  submitted  February  15,  Mr.  Lander  says:  "It  appears,  then,  that,  from  the  great 
scarcity  of  timber  upon  the  second  division  of  the  route,  the  first  division  should  pass  through 
a  timbered  region.  The  difference  in  cost  between  the  route  by  Little  Falls  and  that  by  Sauk 
rapids  is  probably  very  little.  The  route  from  Little  Falls  to  the  Bois  des  Sioux  is  represented 
as  passing  over  high,  sandy  plateaux,  broken  by  low  ridges,  and  interspersed  with  shallow 
swamps.  The  upland  country  is  well-timbered  with  the  eastern  pine,  and  the  swamps  filled 
with  excellent  cedar.  There  would  be  an  increase  of  culvert  masonry  upon  this  route  for  the 
purpose  of  drainage  through  a  low,  wooded  country,  and  extra  cost  in  grubbing,  but  the  crossings 
of  the  Chippewa  and  Tipsina  rivers  occur  near  their  sources,  and  the  line  generally  preserves  a 
better  character  than  that  near  the  odometer  survey,  and  which  crosses  the  Mississippi  at  Sauk 
rapids." 


12.  REPORT  OF  MR.  A.  w.  TINKHAM,  ASSISTANT  ENGINEER,  OF  HIS  RECONNAISSANCE  OF  THE 

"  THREE   BUTTES,"  AND  OF  HIS  RECONNAISSANCE  OF  THE  ROUTE. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  July  7,  1854. 

DEAR  SIR:  On  the  morning  of  September  3,  1853,  I  separated  from  the  train  of  Lieut.  Donel- 
son,  and  entered  upon  a  reconnaissance,  following  up  the  valley  of  Milk  river  some  fifty  miles, 
crossing  over  the  "  Trois  Buttes,"  the  Trunk  of  the  Prairie,  and  the  "  Knee,"  in  the  route  to 
Fort  Benton. 

These  first  named  isolated  mountains,  separated  from  each  other,  and  from  whose  bases  in 
every  direction  the  prairie  stretches  in  its  almost  unbroken  monotony  for  long  distances,  had 
within  a  day  or  two  first  come  into  view,  and  on  the  day  previous  to  the  one  on  which  I  com 
menced  the  reconnaissance  I  had  been  out  in  the  smooth,  dry  prairie  separating  Milk  and  Marias 
rivers,  noting  their  partially-discovered  outline,  and  endeavoring  to  find  their  position. 

A  direct  march  from  Lieut.  Donelson's  camp,  noted  September  2,  would  have  saved  con 
siderable  distance  here;  a  straight  line  would  have  carried  us  over  a  dry,  parched  prairie,  nearly 
stripped  of  grass,  without  wood  or  water.  For  these  reasons  I  followed  the  valley  of  Milk  river 
some  fifty  miles,  and  until  within  about  thirty  miles  of  the  base  of  the  most  easterly  of  the  Trois 
Buttes,  and  then  was  able,  with  a  single  day's  march,  to  reach  the  base  of  the  mountains,  where 
were  water,  grass,  and  wood  in  abundance. 

In  this  interval  of  fifty  miles,  Milk  river  bottom  is  marked  by  the  same  character  of  Mauvaises 
Terres  bluffs  which  at  intervals  distinguish  it  lower  down;  steep,  irregular,  broken  slopes  of  clay 
and  sand,  destitute  and  naked  of  all  vegetation,  with  the  outcropping  tertiary  sandstone  in 
layers  or  blocks.  The  cotton-wood  growth,  growing  thinner  from  the  commencement  of  our 


RECONNAISSANCE   OF   THE   THREE   BUTTES.  227 

journey,  ceased  wholly  in  the  distance  of  twenty  miles,  and  for  thirty  miles  perhaps  not  a  single 
tree  is  to  be  found.  The  bed  of  the  river,  more  dry  than  lower  down,  is  wide  and  shallow,  five 
or  six  hundred  feet  wide,  and  but  a  few  feet  below  the  intervale.  Water  is  rarely  found,  and 
then  only  in  some  hole  sheltered  by  the  overhanging  bank;  and  the  destitution  of  wood,  the 
naked,  barren  slopes  walling  in  the  intervale,  the  almost  total  absence  of  animal  life,  the  whirl 
ing,  drifting  sand  of  the  dry  river-bed,  give  to  this  portion  of  Milk  River  valley,  in  the  chilliness 
of  an  autumn  day,  as  we  travelled  it,  the  character  of  desolation  and  dreariness.  The  river 
turns  frequently,  and  more  abruptly  than  lower  down,  and  is  not  favorable  as  a  railway  route,  and 
offers  no  place  so  feasible  for  leaving  the  valley  and  gaining  the  prairie  as  the  one  decided  on  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  camp  of  September  1. 

At  our  late  camp  on  the  river-bottom,  our  point  of  departure  from  Milk  river,  when  we  took  a 
direct  course  for  the  Three  Buttes,  we  halted  under  a  clump  of  cotton-wood  trees,  the  first  we 
had  seen  for  thirty  miles,  with  good  wood,  luxuriant  grass,  and  sufficient  water  in  the  holes  of 
the  river-bed.  In  this  vicinity,  washed  down  by  the  water,  detached  fragments  of  lignite  were 
of  frequent  occurrence. 

On  the  5th  of  September,  at  night,  I  reached  the  east  base  of  the  most  eastern  of  the  Three 
Buttes. 

The  river,  where  I  left  it,  I  found  to  be  about  thirty  miles  distance  from  our  camp  of  that  night. 
With  the  exception  of  two  or  three  series  of  coulees,  making  down  into  the  main  valley  of  Milk 
river,  the  route  during  the  day  lay  over  the  dry  prairie  already  noticed  as  lying  between  Milk  and 
Marias  rivers.  In  these  coulees,  with  their  numerous  branches  cutting  the  country  in  deep  chan 
nels,  difficult  of  passage,  we  noticed  the  frequency  of  fossils  and  of  lignite  in  place.  The  layers 
of  lignite  were  sometimes  six  feet  in  depth,  but  most  of  this  was  occupied  by  layers  of  very 
inferior  quality,  only  a  small  portion  being  black  and  hard.  I  had  no  opportunity  to  examine 
anything  more  than  what  happened  to  fall  in  my  way. 

Our  camp  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  mountain  was  not  gained  until  night,  and  the  gathering 
rain  obliged  us  to  take  such  quarters  as  happened  to  befall  us,  without  much  opportunity  for 
selection.  We  camped  in  a  gully,  worn  by  water  through  a  light  gray  sandstone,  with  the 
animals  above  us  with  good  grass.  At  the  bottom  of  the  gully  was  a  spring,  whence  meandered 
a  small  rivulet,  whose  belt  of  green  marked  its  course  through  the  browned  plains,  until  it  was 
absorbed  and  disappeared.  Antelope  had  been  tolerably  plenty  during  the  day.  The  wild 
cherry  and  black  gooseberry  were  abundant  near  our  camp.  The  sandstone,  a  formation  of 
considerable  extent,  a  thick  stratum  which  the  water  has  sometimes  cut  into  a  channel  seventy- 
five  feet  deep,  is  a  light  gray,  coarse  stone,  and  will  answer  very  well  for  ordinary  masonry, 
and  apparently  could  be  easily  worked. 

September  6th  was  spent  in  making  the  ascent  of  the  mountain.  The  rain  fell  heavily  during 
the  early  part  of  the  previous  night,  and  the  morning  sun  discovered  the  overhanging  peaks  of 
the  Buttes,  glittering  with  a  pure  white  covering  of  snow  stretching  far  down  their  slopes,  and 
contrasting  brilliantly  with  their  dark  masses  of  evergreen  growth.  Occasionally  riding,  but 
oftener  walking  and  leading  our  animals,  early  in  the  afternoon  we  gained  as  near  the  top  as  it 
was  desirable  for  the  whole  party  to  go.  Leaving  the  animals  and  most  of  the  party  to  proceed 
to  camp  on  the  western  slope,  on  foot  I  made  my  way  to  the  tops  of  the  two  principal  summits 
of  the  eastern  of  the  Trois  Buttes.  Our  ascent  had  been  one  of  continued  excitement  and 
interest. 

For  months  we  had  been  confined  to  the  monotony  of  the  smooth  bleak  prairie,  and  had 
missed  the  rocks  and  trees,  the  hills,  and  brooks,  to  which  we  were  accustomed,  and  as  we  again 
were  suddenly  thrown  among  them  with  all  their  novelty  and  pleasant  associations,  our  spirits 
were  strangely  exhilarated,  and  every  familiar  stone  and  shrub  possessed  a  rare  charm. 

The  mountains  are  perhaps  half  covered  with  a  small  growth,  chiefly  of  pine — a  small  pitch- 
pine — straight,  eight  inches  to  two  feet  through,  and  spruces  of  the  same. size;  and  the  other  half 


228  RECONNAISSANCE   OF   THE   ROUTE. 

is  made  up  with  grassed  slopes,  a  thrifty,  abundant  growth,  sometimes  reaching  to  the  higher 
peaks,  or  with  steep  embankment-like  declivities  of  loose  sliding  stones,  which,  displaced  by  the 
feet  of  the  buffalo  and  deer,  and  traced  with  numerous  paths,  gave  a  foothold  for  ourselves  and 
horses. 

The  game  was  abundant;  a  large  elk  was  shot  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  day  ;  antelope  were 
more  plenty  than  we  had  before  seen  them  ;  some  black-tailed  deer  were  seen,  a  big-horn,  and 
occasionally  a  rabbit  or  hare  crossed  our  path. 

The  wild  cherry  and  gooseberry  were  abundant ;  and  besides,  there  were  the  strawberry  vine, 
the  raspbeny  bush,  blackberry  bush,  the  ground  juniper,  and  other  familiar. plants. 

After  the  sandstone  was  a  dark  slaty-looking  stone,  soft,  and  crumbled  on  the  surface,  which 
was  supposed  by  Dr.  Suckley,  to  whom  I  gave  the  specimens  collected  on  this  line,  to  be  car 
bonate  of  lime.  Porphyritic  and  common  trap  stones  were  also  in  place.  Perhaps  the  most 
valuable  stone  is  a  white  marble,  at  times  of  alabaster  clearness  and  purity.  Many  of  these 
stones  would  be  useful  in  building,  and  there  is  little  doubt  that  a  suitable  exploration  would 
prove  them  to  be  conveniently  accessible. 

The  snow  of  the  previous  night  had  not  been  wholly  obliterated  by  the  warm  sun  of  the  day, 
and  was  an  agreeable  incident  to  the  closing  part  of  the  somewhat  laborious  and  heated  ascent. 

The  view  from  the  two  summits,  of  about  the  same  height,  and  which  were  mounted  in  succes 
sion,  is  of  vast  extent,  and  embraces  objects  of  striking  interest.  East  and  north  you  trace  the 
windings  of  Milk  river.  In  the  same  direction,  off  in  the  distance,  is  Cypress  mountain — not 
mountain-like  in  appearance,  but  apparently  a  sloping,  gradually  rising  elevation  of  ground. 
Not  as  far  off  as  the  mountain,  and  beyond  what  appeared  to  be  Milk  river,  could  be  seen  a  lake 
of  considerable  extent.  Here  we  had  our  first  view  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  One  hundred 
miles  or  more  distant,  they  terminated  the  view  from  northward  to  southward,  gradually  falling 
towards  the  horizon  in  the  latter  direction.  The  snow  of  the  previous  night  had  evidently 
extended  to  them,  and  the  imposing  mass  abruptly  opposing  itself  like  a  forbidding  wall,  termi 
nating  the  smooth  stretch  of  prairie  reaching  to  its  base,  was  gorgeous  with  its  glittering  peaks 
and  flashing  snow-fields,  lit  up  with  unusual  brilliancy  by  the  evening  sun.  It  is  characteristic 
of  the  mountains  to  the  north  of  Sun  river,  that  at  first  view  they  generally  present  a  seeming 
unbroken  front ;  and  though  a  nearer  approach  discovers  openings  hid  from  view  in  the  distance, 
and  some  of  which  future  exploration  may  possibly  show  to  afford  practicable  passages  of  the 
mountain,  we  were,  at  the  Three  Buttes,  too  far  distant  to  detect  any  such  favoring  gaps,  and  the 
mountains  were  before  us,  an  unbroken  and  apparently  impenetrable  barrier. 

South  and  southeast  could  be  seen  the  mountains  be}rond  the  Missouri,  in  the  direction  of  Fort 
Benton,  and  near  the  Bear's  Paw  range.  The  Marias  River  valley  was  not  distinguishable,  but 
its  tributary  rivulets,  emanating  in  the  mountain,  could  sometimes  be  traced  for  a  long  distance. 
Most  of  the  small  rivulets,  in  this  dry  season  of  the  year,  are  absorbed  and  lost  before  passing 
beyond  the  limits  of  the  mountain  slopes. 

The  sun  had  set  as  we  left  the  tops  of  the  mountains ;  the  air  was  growing  cool  and  chilly ; 
the  thermometer  at  37°  Fahrenheit,  and  rapidly  falling.  The  barometer  gave  the  height  of  the 
three  mountains  about  3,300  feet  above  the  prairie  at  its  base,  and  (I  speak  from  recollection 
only — the  record  of  the  observations  were  with  the  general  records  now  missing)  about  6,700 
feet  above  the  sea.  To  me  they  are  objects  of  singular  curiosity.  Distinct  from  each  other,  and 
isolated  from  any  mountain  group,  they  have  been  thrown  up  high  above  the  surrounding  country, 
and  have  long  served  as  the  watch-towers  and  land-marks  of  the  roving  tribes  ranging  for  a 
thousand  miles  distance  north,  south,  east  and  west.  Assiniboins,  Crows,  and  Blackfeet,  all 
know  them  well  in  their  geography,  and  their  summits  are  marked  with  their  monumental  stone 
heaps,  and  retain  the  lodges  where  some  war  party  has  waited  the  favorable  moments  to  pounce 
upon  the  unguarded  and  isolated  wanderer  of  the  plain  below. 

The  descent  to  our  camp  was  very  rapid — as  rapid  as  the  steep  slopes  would  admit ;  and  before 


RECONNAISSANCE   OP   THE   ROUTE.  229 

dark  we  gained  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  whence  the  sight  of  the  curling  smoke  and  bright  fire 
light  had  advised  us  where  to  look  for  the  rest  of  the  party.  The  night  was  clear  and  frosty,  and 
the  clear  sparkling  brook  washing  the  small  stones  in  its  bed,  with  the  wooded  and  dark  slopes 
shutting  us  in,  made  our  encampment  strangely  unlike  the  bare  prairie  to  which  we  were  accus 
tomed. 

The  next  day  we  completed  the  descent,  passed  between  the  remaining  two  of  the  Three 
Buttes,  and  before  night  were  again  on  the  smooth  prairie,  and  encamped  that  night  at  dark  about 
twelve  miles  south  of  the  most  westerly  of  the  ]Buttes,  without  water  or  wood.  Our  course  was 
to  the  Marias  river,  and  we  hoped  to  fall  upon  some  small  tributary  which  would  afford  us  water, 
but  every  promising  hollow  and  valley  only  served  to  disappoint  us  with  its  dry  bed.  The  ground 
continues  rolling  for  some  distance  after  leaving  the  Buttes,  and  some  sixteen  miles  west  of  our 
camp  was  a  very  prominent  and  high  bluff,  called  Snake's  Head.  We  went  no  nearer  to  it. 
Game,  especially  buffalo,  was  plenty  during  the  day.  It  was  on  this  evening  that  I  lost  my 
horse.  The  old  man,  Monroe,  whom  I  took  with  me  as  interpreter  in  case  we  fell  in  with  any 
bands  of  Blackfeet,  was  very  uneasy  during  our  stay  on  the  Buttes,  and  hardly  seemed  to  act 
or  breath  freely  until  we  were  again  on  the  prairies,  and  with  an  unobstructed  sight.  Passing  so 
much  of  his  life  among  the  Indians,  he  had  all  their  superstitious  fears;  and  recalling  every  Indian 
story  of  combat  and  murder  connected  with  these  mountains,  his  mind  seemed  really  confused 
under  the  superstitious  dread  which  weighed  upon  him,  and  he  acted  with  more  than  ordinary 
forgetfulness.  Riding  side  by  side,  his  rifle  must  have  been  cocked,  and  the  motion  discharged 
the  gun,  the  ball  passing  into  my  horse  just  back  of  my  leg.  I  was  obliged  to  abandon  her  on 
the  spot,  one  of  the  party  after  that  generally  walking  by  turns.  She  was  a  fine  mare,  a  pet 
with  me,  and  as  I  looked  back  upon  the  spot  where  she  had  lain  down  exhausted,  after  struggling 
to  follow  the  other  horses,  it  was  with  a  sadness  such  as  one  feels  for  the  loss  of  a  more  intelligent 
object  of  affection. 

On  the  next  day,  September  8th,  I  reached  Marias  river,  after  a  march  of  a  little  over  twenty- 
six  miles.  The  route  was  over  the  dry  rolling  prairie,  and  parched  and  sterile,  occasionally 
crossing  the  dry  bed  where  at  some  time  flowed  a  tributary  brook  of  the  Marias  river,  or  the 
dry  and  parched  bottom  of  a  shallow  lake.  Starting  without  breakfast,  it  was  near  noon  before 
we  found  any  water,  and  then  we  obtained  it  from  some  small  pools  of  standing  but  palatable 
water,  for  which  we  were  probably  indebted  to  the  recent  rain.  Marias  river,  where  we  touched 
it,  has  the  same  characteristics  as  lower  down — flows  in  a  deep  channel  two  hundred  to  three  hun 
dred  feet  below  the  prairie  level,  and  though  tolerably  well  wooded  with  cotton-wood,  is  hid  from 
sight  until  one  is  close  upon  it.  The  valley  is  frequently  broken  with  coulees.  The  bed  of 
the  river  is  two  hundred  to  three  hundred  feet  broad  ;  water  at  that  time  one  hundred  and  fifry 
feet  wide,  two  to  four  feet  deep ;  banks  eight  to  twelve  feet  high,  of  sand  and  mud.  Pebbly 
bottom,  swift  current,  water  slightly  milky. 

A  handsome  band  of  elk,  some  twenty  or  twenty-five  in  number,  headed  by  a  stately  buck, 
walked  leisurely  past  our  camp  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 

Fording  the  river  here,  and  passing  on  to  its  western  banks,  some  eight  miles'  farther  travel 
brought  us  to  the  "  Trunk  of  the  Prairie,"  a  box-like  prairie  elevation,  not  particularly  promi 
nent,  but  from  whose  top  I  obtained  a  fine  general  view  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  of  the 
country  at  their  base.  Here  we  again  saw  droves  of  buffalo. 

After  obtaining  this  point,  I  turned  southeasterly  towards  Fort  Benton,  travelling  in  a  direct 
line  from  the  "  Knee,"  by  my  estimate  thirty-seven  miles  distant,  and  which  I  did  not  reach  until 
the  close  of  the  next  day,  September  10.  This  is  all  prairie  country,  and  of  somewhat  better 
character  than  to  the  northeast  of  Marias  river.  It  is,  however,  very  scantily  watered,  and  is 
destitute  of  wood.  In  this  distance  of  thirty-seven  miles  I  passed  over  one  considerable  brook- 
bed,  where  there  was  no  running  water,  but  an  abundance  of  good  water  standing  in  the  deeper 


230  RECONNAISSANCE   OF   THE  ROUTE. 

parts  of  the  channel,  and  no  wood.    There  is  evidently  here  at  times  a  considerable  flow  of  water. 
Besides  this  we  saw  but  little  water,  and  there  was  no  wood. 
The  buffalo-dung  was  sufficiently  plentiful  for  fuel. 

From  the  "Knee,"  a  square  detached  butte,  of  perhaps  half  a  mile  wide,  with  a  fortress-like 
look,  and  accessible  with  horses  at  only  a  few  points,  I  had  another  view  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
the  country  watered  by  the  Teton,  and  of  the  prairie  to  the  eastward,  and  then  was  able  to  trace 
the  general  route  desirable  for  the  railway  after  leaving  Milk  river,  The  Missouri  river  mountains 
were  also  in  view.  Camped  on  the  Teton,  about  five  miles  from  the  "Knee,"  groping  into  camp 
late  in  the  evening,  having  marched  about  thirty-three  miles  without  water,  and  one  of  the 
mules  having  given  out.  Here  we  had  good  water  and  wood  and  tolerable  grass.  At  this  camp 
I  remained  the  next  day,  the  Sabbath.  The  Teton  here  resembles  the  Marias  river,  though  a 
smaller  stream,  flowing  deep  below  the  prairie,  fringed  with  cotton-wood,  was  sixty  to  two  hun 
dred  feet  wide,  one  to  three  feet  deep,  freshet-marks  about  eight  feet  above  the  water-level ; 
at  that  line,  width  of  interval  one  thousand  feet. 

From  this  camp  the  same  smooth  prairie  continues  until  terminated  by  the  bluffs  and  coulees 
of  the  Missouri  river ;  and  save  that  we  once  more  crossed  the  Teton,  having  about  the  same 
character  already  noticed,  the  balance  of  the  journey  does  not  require  remark,  and  the  route 
soon  crosses  the  more  thoroughly  explored  line  travelled  by  the  main  train. 

September  12th. — I  reached  Fort  Benton  late  in  the  evening,  after  a  ride  of  some  thirt}r-rive 
miles,  closing  this  reconnaissance  of  about  two  hundred  and  ten  miles  in  extent,  and  occupying 
ten  days'  time. 

Its  chief  value  is  the  continuation  of  the  survey  of  Milk  river  above  where  the  odometer  survey 
left  it ;  the  examination  of  the  general  character  of  the  country  between  Milk  and  Marias  rivers ; 
the  partial  reconnaissance  of  the  "  Trois  Buttes,"  discovering  much  that  may  prove  valuable  in 
these  mountains  of  wood  and  stone,  with  more  or  less  of  land  capable  of  tillage;  the  intersection 
of  Marias  and  Teton  rivers,  with  other  surveys,  enabling  us  to  plot  those  rivers  with  a  good 
degree  of  accuracy;  and  the  description  of  the  practicable  railway  character  of  the  country  from 
Milk  river  to  the  upper  valley  of  the  Teton  river. 

Its  plot  was  long  since  incorporated  in  the  general  maps  of  the  survey  ;  the  barometric  observ 
ations,  few  in  number,  but  characteristic,  were  at  Olympia  among  the  meteorological  records, 
with  Lieut.  Donelson,  and  probably  are  included  in  the  missing  records.  The  mineralogical 
specimens  were  turned  over  to  Dr.  Suckley. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  W.  TINKHAM. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  N.  P.  R.  R.  Exploration,  Washington,  D.  C. 


13.    REPORT  OF  DOCTOR   JOHN  EVANS  OF  HIS  ROUTE    SOUTH   OF  THE    MISSOURI  AND  YELLOW 
STONE,    AND    BETWEEN    THE    MILK    AND    MISSOURI    RIVERS. 

[This  paper,  sent  from  Washington  Territory,  where  Dr.  Evans  was  still  employed  in  the  field  when  the  report  of  Governor 
Stevens  was  submitted,  was  lost  on  the  route.] 


NAVIGABILITY   OF   THE   MISSOURI.  231 

E. 
NAVIGABILITY  OF  THE  MISSOURI. 

14.  REPORT  OF  LIEUTENANT  A.  j.  DONELSON,  CORPS  OF  ENGINEERS  UNITED  STATES  ARMY,  OF 
HIS  SURVEY  OF  THE  MISSOURI  TO  FORT  UNION,  AND  OF  HIS  RECONNAISSANCE  OF  THE  COUNTRY 
IN  THE  VICINITY  OF  FORT  UNION  BETWEEN  THE  WHITE  EARTH  AND  THE  BIG  MUDDY  RIVER. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

March  8,  1854. 

SIR  :  Having  already  rendered  you  a  general  description  of  the  Missouri  river  from  its  mouth 
to  the  Poplar,  and  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Union,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the 
following  report,  which,  with  the  accompanying  map  and  tables,  comprises  all  the  information 
obtained  by  the  party  under  my  charge  in  the  months  of  May,  June,  and  July,  1853. 

The  party  for  the  survey  of  the  Missouri  consisted  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  first  artillery, 
Mr.  W.  M.  Graham,  and  one  sergeant,  two  artificers,  and  three  privates  of  the  United  States 
company  of  sappers  and  miners.  Lieutenant  Mullan  was  placed  in  charge  of  the  meteorological 
observations,  in  addition  to  which  he  assisted  in  making  the  topography.  Mr.  Graham  was 
the  astronomer  ;  Sergeant  Collins  assistant  topographer;  and  the  remainder  of  the  sappers  aided 
in  the  several  duties. 

The  steamboat  Robert  Campbell,  in  which  we  had  engaged  passage,  was  propelled  by  a 
double  engine,  and  had  been  a  first-class  Missouri  river  packet.  Her  tonnage  was  about  three 
hundred,  and  she  had  on  board  near  the  maximum  load,  drawing  about  five  feet  of  water. 

The  operations  pursued  in  making  the  survey  were  briefly  as  follows:  Meteorological  observa 
tions  were  generally  taken  at  every  halt.  Astronomical  observations  were  made  whenever  prac 
ticable  at  the  halts.  A  topographical  sketch  was  taken  to  the  mouth  of  the  Poplar,  from  a  point 
about  twenty  miles  above  St.  Joseph.  For  this  purpose,  Lieut.  Mullan,  myself,  and  Sergeant 
Collins  generally  performed  in  turn  the  work  of  running  courses,  estimating  distances,  and  of 
mapping.  The  sketch  is  continuous,  except  what  should  correspond  to  the  portions  of  the  map 
of  the  river  drawn  in  dotted  lines:  as  for  these,  the  notes  were  in  one  case  lost;  and  for  the  rest, 
the  courses  were  travelled  after  dark.  The  connexion  was  made  by  drawing  the  portions  in 
dotted  lines  from  our  notes,  and  from  the  maps  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  Nicollet,  and  others. 

Hourly  soundings  were  taken  from  near  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux  to  Fort  Union.  Notes 
were  made  of  all  the  features  of  the  river  and  adjacent  country,  as  observed  from  the  steamboat, 
and  all  information  practicable  was  obtained  from  gentlemen  of  the  Fur  Company,  and  traders 
and  voyageurs.  In  constructing  the  map,  the  data  obtained  by  Nicollet  and  others,  who  formerly 
surveyed  the  river,  have  been  freely  used,  as  the  object  was  to  obtain  accuracy  by  combining  all 
the  reliable  results  which  have  ever  been  obtained.  The  map  of  all  that  portion  of  the  river 
below  the  point  at  which  we  commenced  sketching  has  been  drawn  by  adding  our  own  observ 
ations  to  the  best  maps  already  published.  Having  left  St.  Louis  at  half-after  twelve  o'clock  on 
the  21st  of  May,  we  entered  the  Missouri  a  little  while  before  sunset,  and  found  that  river  high, 
the  water  muddy,  and  current  rapid. 

The  Missouri  enters  the  Mississippi  in  latitude  38°  50'  50"  north,  and  in  longitude  90°  13' 
45"  west  of  Greenwich.  Below  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  it  pursues  a  direction  nearly  east,  lies 
almost  entirely  within  the  State  of  Missouri,  and  is  about  three  hundred  and  eighty-two  miles 
long.  Its  banks  are  here  almost  continuously  settled,  while  all  the  more  prominent  localities 
are  occupied  by  flourishing  cities,  towns,  or  villages.  The  soil  is  of  surpassing  fertility,  and  the 
adjacent  country  rich  in  coal,  iron,  and  other  minerals.  Cotton- wood  is  the  prevailing  growth  in 
the  bottoms,  while  willow  is  very  abundant  at  the  water's  edge,  and  sycamore  near  the  river 
and  its  tributaries ;  but  there  are  also  found,  in  great  abundance,  principally  on  the  slopes  which 
limit  the  immediate  valley  of  the  Missouri,  the  oak,  walnut,  ash,  elm,  and  maple.  The  islands 


232  NAVIGABILITY  OF  THE   MISSOURI. 

are  very  numerous,  and  some  of  them  several  miles  in  extent.  They  do  not,  as  higher  up  the 
river,  appear  to  owe  in  part  their  existence  to  the  entrance  of  tributaries.  They  have  nearly 
all  a  rich  soil,  but  are  kept  by  the  action  of  the  current  in  a  transition  state,  either  increasing  in 
size  from  the  constant  deposition  of  new  material,  or  undergoing  destruction  in  consequence  of 
the  current  driving  against  the  islands  through  changes  in  the  channel  of  the  river. 

Those  changes  are  very  marked  in  this  river,  which  may  be  observed  in  nearly  all  streams, 
and  which  are  or  arise  from  the  detrition  of  the  banks  on  one  side,  and  the  formation  of  new  ones 
at  corresponding  points  generally  on  the  opposite  side.  The  detrition  principally  takes  place 
on  the  side  of  the  main  channel,  as  along  the  outer  circle  of  bends.  The  current  is  only  effectunlly 
checked  when,  after  it  has  encroached  in  one  direction  for  some  time,  it  encounters  the  rocky  bluffs 
which  border  the  river  valley.  The  growth  of  timber  only  delays  its  action ;  for  there  were 
noticed,  in  a  great  many  instances,  large  and  flourishing  trees,  roots  and  all,  which,  with  the 
earth  they  grew  in,  had  fallen  into  the  river,  and  were  floating  down  to  sink  or  be  caught  on 
some  sand-bar,  and  thus  to  become  a  snag  or  sawyer,  or  perhaps  a  nucleus  around  which  should 
be  formed  an  island.  The  first  settlers  must  have  suffered  very  much  from  these  causes ;  others, 
as  those  who  have  located  below  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Council  Bluff' city,  have  avoided  their  ill 
effects  by  placing  their  improvements  as  far  from  the  river  as  practicable. 

The  destruction  of  the  banks  is  not  in  all  cases  gradual,  for  I  saw  many  instances  to  the  con- 
trarv,  and  had  reliable  information  that  often  an  extent  of  several  acres  of  land  disappeared  in  a 
moment. 

During  a  great  part  of  our  voyage,  those  changes,  of  which  mention  has  been  made,  were  much 
more  marked  on  the  right  than  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river ;  which  may  be  accounted  for  by  the 
fact  that,  while  the  river  is  confined  in  its  course  between  two  nearly  parallel  ranges  of  bluffs,  it 
appears  tending  to  approach  the  more  westerly,  and,  as  a  consequence,  must  encroach  principally 
on  that  side.  It  was  noticed  that  many  of  the  principal  bends  were  turned  towards  the  west. 

I  was  informed  that  at  some  points  the  banks  disappear  more  in  low  than  in  high  water ;  and 
this  may  be  explained  by  supposing  that  the  strong  current,  while  it  loosens  the  mass,  supports 
it  in  its  position  as  long  as  the  water  is  high.  One  good  effect  resulting  from  the  formation  of  these 
obstructions  is,  that  it  tends  to  give  the  river  a  sinuous  course,  which  diminishes  the  velocity.  As 
in  the  case  of  the  Mississippi,  so  in  this,  if  the  river  were  straight  the  velocity  would  be  too  great 
for  the  purposes  of  navigation. 

It  results  from  the  continually  recurring  changes  to  which  the  Missouri  is  liable,  that  at  nearly 
every  bend  there  is  a  sand-bar  or  island,  and  a  series  of  snags  and  sawyers.  These  also  generally 
occur  wherever  from  any  cause  the  water  is  still,  or  there  is  a  counter  current,  and  where  there 
are  eddies  or  whirlpools.  The  difficulty  in  navigation  is  to  discover  in  season  a  continuous 
unobstructed  channel.  Concealed  snags  and  sawyers  are  liable  to  occur  in  any  part  of  the  river. 

The  average  velocity  of  this  portion  of  the  Missouri  is  a  little  over  five  miles  an  hour.  By 
a  rough  measurement,  made  at  Howard's  Landing,  not  far  above  Boonville,  I  found  the  width 
to  be  about  half  a  mile. 

Some  of  the  characteristics  which  I  have  not  mentioned  of  this  portion  of  the  valley  of  the  Mis 
souri  are,  that  the  tributaries  have  generally  much  clearer  water  than  the  river  itself,  and  are, 
from  the  depositions  which  there  take  place,  narrower  at  their  mouths  than  elsewhere ;  that  the 
smaller  of  the  tributaries  lie,  for  the  most  part,  within  the  two  parallel  ranges  of  bluffs  ;  that,  in  many 
instances,  the  bottoms  may  be  said  to  be  swamp-land,  being  occupied  by  numerous  marshes,  lakes, 
ponds,  and  sloughs,  which  diminish  the  value  of  the  exceedingly  rich  land,  and  must  cause  the 
intermittent  and  other  fevers  to  prevail  to  some  extent ;  that  the  banks  of  the  river  are  heavily 
wooded  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  to  the  Mississippi,  there  having  been  observed  by  myself 
but  one  locality,  and  that  near  the  mouth  of  Grand  river,  which  could  be  called  a  prairie  ;  and  that 
the  two  ranges  of  hills  which  limit  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  were  judged  to  be  from  seven  to 
lifteen  miles  distant  from  each  other — the  eastern  range  touching  the  river  at  St.  Charles,  Port- 


NAVIGABILITY    OF    THE    MISSOURI.  233 

land,  Glasgow,  Brunswick,  and  other  points  ;  and  the  western  below  St.  Charles,  at  Jefferson  city, 
Boonville,  Howard's  Landing,  Lexington,  Camden,  Liberty  Landing,  &c.  The  two  continuing 
parallel  to  each  other,  and  consequently  diverging  from  the  river  between  the  points  above 
mentioned. 

Besides  these  characteristics,  I  will  mention  that  the  coal  measures  are  the  principal  geological 
formation  near  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  the  magnesian  limestone  near  Jefferson  city,  and  the 
carboniferous  limestone  and  coal  measures  from  Howard's  Landing  upwards. 

The  town  of  Independence,  not  far  below  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas,  and  situated  in  a  bend  of 
which  the  arc  is  twelve  miles  and  the  chord  three  miles  long,  is  connected  by  travelled  roads 
with  Santa  Fe  and  with  Fort  Laramie  and  the  South  Pass.  Kansas,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river  of  that  name,  is  also  so  connected. 

Between  Fort  Leavenworth  and  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  the  principal  tributaries  are  the 
Osage,  Grand  river,  and  the  Kansas.  The  first  is  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide  at 
its  mouth,  but  a  little  wider  just  above.  It  is  navigable  six  months  in  the  year  for  about  two 
hundred  miles,  or  to  a  point  thirty  miles  beyond  Warsaw,  although  steamboats  have,  in  very  high 
water,  been  to  Harmony  station,  which  is  beyond  the  frontier  of  the  State.  Grand  river  is  about 
two  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  is  navigable  for  steamboats,  although  the  interests  of 
trade  do  not  now  cause  it  to  be  used  for  that  purpose.  Kansas  river  unites  with  the  Missouri 
at  an  angle  of  about  150°.  A  low  bottom,  nearly  a  mile  wide  and  several  miles  long,  occurs 
just  below  its  mouth.  The  angle  between  the  two  streams  was  probably,  in  former  days,  about 
80°  ;  but  a  deposition  having  taken  place  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  in  the  same  manner  that 
islands  are  continually  forming  in  the  Missouri,  and  being  partly  caused  by  the  difference  in 
velocity  of  the  two  streams,  the  Kansas  has  shifted  its  channel  to  the  north.  It  is  about  300  yards 
wide  at  its  mouth,  and,  with  the  exception  of  two  sets  of  rapids,  open  for  navigation  for  about  150 
or  200  miles.  The  rapids,  I  was  informed,  could  be  improved  at  a  moderate  cost.  Flowing 
as  it  does  through  a  tract  of  country  which  is  not  in  any  other  way  accessible  to  steamboats,  and 
which  possesses  many  resources,  the  Kansas  must  assume  some  importance  at  a  future  day.  I 
did  not  see  its  valley  above  its  mouth,  but,  having  formerly  travelled  over  the  country  for  some 
hundreds  of  miles  west  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  can  say  that  the  valleys  of  the  streams,  for  at  least 
150  miles  west  of  that  post,  are  favorable  for  agricultural  or  grazing  purposes ;  and  from  their 
proximity  to  the  Kansas,  as  well  as  from  information  received,  I  would  infer  that  its  valley  has  the 
same  advantages. 

In  our  ascent  of  the  river,  we  proceeded  at  the  rate  of  about  five  miles  an  hour,  halting  nearly 
two  hours  every  day  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  wood.  The  ordinary  price  of  this  along  the 
banks  of  the  river  was  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  dollars  per  cord,  according  to  quality ;  and  the 
consumption  of  it  by  the  steamboat  at  the  rate  of  about  two  cords  per  hour.  We  reached 
Howard's  Landing,  five  miles  above  Boonville,  at  12  m.  on  the  24th  of  May,  and  halted  there 
until  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  for  the  purpose  of  repairing  some  part  of  the  boat's  machinery. 
We  found  the  current  very  rapid  at  Brunswick,  but  met  with  no  other  obstruction  at  this  point. 
There  was  formerly  a  large  island  opposite  this  town,  and  it  has  not  yet  entirely  disappeared. 
The  current  was  observed  to  be  more  rapid  between  the  island  and  right  bank  shore  than  next 
the  outer  side  of  the  elbow.  On  the  night  of  the  25th  and  on  the  26th,  above  Brunswick,  the 
steamboat  was  much  delayed  by  sand-bars.  In  running  on  one  of  these,  the  ordinary  events 
which  transpire  in  rapid  succession  are  the  harsh  and  grating  noise  heard,  the  trembling  motion 
communicated  to  the  steamboat  while  being  brought  to  a  state  of  rest,  the  inclination  from  stem 
to  stern  which  it  is  at  the  same  time  caused  to  assume,  the  ringing  of  bells  to  stop  the  engines 
and  to  cause  them  to  work  backwards;  and  then,  this  failing  to  relieve  the  boat  from  its  awkward 
position,  the  resort  to  the  double  set  of  spars,  pulleys  and  tackling,  with  which  every  Missouri 
river  steamboat  is  furnished.  The  discovery  in  season  of  a  continuous  unobstructed  channel  is 
generally  easily  made  by  the  skilful  pilot  when  there  is  nothing  to  interfere  with  his  vision  j 
30  / 


234  NAVIGABILITY    OF    THE    MISSOURI. 

the  slightest  ripple  on  the  surface  of  the  water  above  a  sand-bar,  and  the  divergence  of  the 
current,  which  occurs  near  a  concealed  snag,  however  unapparent  to  an  ordinary  eye,  are  uner 
ringly  detected  by  him,  when  he  can  distinguish  objects  at  the  supposed  distance.  But  some 
times  the  channel  has  an  oblique  direction,  and  over  the  entire  cross  section  of  the  •  river  indica 
tions  of  obstructions  may  be  seen.  It  may  accordingly  be  inferred  how  much  more  dangerous  is 
the  navigation  by  night  than  by  day,  and  how  great  must  be  the  difficulties  when  the  night  is 
entirely  dark.  We  reached  Lexington  a  little  after  noon  on  the  26th,  and  obtained  there  about 
five  hundred  bushels  of  coal.  Just  above  this  town  the  river  was  found  to  be  very  rapid.  The 
points  which  in  this  report  are  mentioned  as  being  particularly  rapid,  were  generally  such  that 
our  steamboat,  when  struggling  directly  against  the  current,  made  very  little  or  no  progress. 
We  passed  them  in  taking  advantage  of  the  current  by  diagonal  steering,  and  by  using  rosin, 
pitch,  &c.,  to  increase  the  tension  of  the  steam.  Not  far  from  Lexington,  we  passed,  on  the 
26th,  a  short  turn  in  the  river  with  a  rapid  current,  and  called  "  Devil's  Bend." 

The  permanent  obstructions  in  the  river  below  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  are  a  chain  of  rocks 
about  twelve  miles  below  St.  Charles,  and  one  a  little  below  Sibley.  I  could  obtain  no  facts 
as  to  the  effect  these  now  have  upon  the  navigation. 

I  have  thus,  with  the  exception  of  stating  some  facts  as  to  the  climate,  statistics  of  navigation, 
&c.,  which  will  be  done  farther  on,  described  that  portion  of  this  river  which  lies  within  the 
State  of  Missouri.  As  most  of  the  characteristics  I  have  mentioned  are  applicable  to  the  other 
portions  of  the  river  over  which  we  travelled,  I  shall,  as  a  general  thing,  enter,  in  the  following 
part  of  this  report,  into  a  particular  description  only  when  the  character  of  the  country  or  river 
is  essentially  different  from  that  which  has  been  considered.  I  have  dwelt  somewhat  on  the 
changes  which  take  place  in  the  positions  of  the  banks  of  the  river  and  its  channel.  These 
occur  in  a  similar  manner,  but  in  different  degrees,  at  successive  points  along  the  whole  of  the 
Missouri  that  was  surveyed. 

As  the  lower  subdivision  of  this  river  is  far  more  important  than  any  other,  so  also  is  the 
State  of  Missouri  than  any  other  part  of  the  vast  tract  of  country  watered  by  this  stream.  That 
State,  with  its  great  agricultural  and  mineral  resources,  from  its  central  position,  its  connexion 
by  travelled  roads  with  all  the  territories  as  well  as  the  two  great  harbors  of  the  Pacific,  and 
the  facility  of  communication  by  navigable  streams  with  the  extreme  northern  and  southern 
portions  of  the  Union,  will,  it  seems  to  me,  be  very  important  as  a  source  of  supply  to  any  line  of 
railroad  which  may  be  directed  across  the  continent. 

The  next  portion  of  the  river  to  be  considered  is  that  which  is  included  between  the  rivers 
Kansas  and  Nebraska  or  Platte;  this  division  of  the  subject  into  parts  being  adopted  more  for 
convenience  than  anything  else. 

The  Missouri,  from  near  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  to  near  the  parallel  of  40°  38'  north  latitude, 
or  about  the  middle  of  the  island  of  Grand  Lebouter,  separates  the  State  of  Missouri  from  the 
Indian  territory,  and  from  that  point  to  the  mouth  of  the  "Big  Sioux"  it  separates  the  State  of 
Iowa  from  the  Indian  territory. 

We  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  at  about  forty  minutes  past  4  o'clock  p.  m.  on  the  27th. 
Fort  Leavenworth  we  passed  at  about  half-after  10  o'clock  a.  m.  on  the  28th.  This  place  is 
beautifully  situated  upon  a  commanding  eminence  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Missouri.  The  coun 
try  to  the  west  of  it,  for  some  twenty  or  thirty  miles,  to  the  vast  prairies,  is  an  alternation  of  hills 
and  valleys,  of  prairies  and  woodland.  The  valleys  are  fertile,  and  some  of  them  under  culti 
vation.  The  occurrence  of  woods  here,  for  many  miles  back  from  the  river,  serves  in  some 
degree  to  show  that  throughout  a  great  part  of  its  extent  the  country  adjacent  to  the  Missouri 
would  be  sufficiently  wooded  were  it  not  for  the  annual  fires. 

We  had  some  difficulty  in  stemming  the  current  above  and  below  Weston.  Not  far  above 
that  point  a  marked  change  took  place  in  the  appearance  of  the  river.  The  water  seemed  clearer, 
the  current  less  rapid,  and  the  islands,  which  were  nearly  all  on  the  left  side,  were  fewer  and 


NAVIGABILITY    OF    THE    MISSOURI.  235 

of  older  formation  than  was  the  case  lower  down  the  river.  Both  banks,  whether  low  ground  or 
hills,  were  well  wooded ;  but  on  the  right  bank,  those  prairies  which  extend  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountains  were  not  far  off,  while  on  the  left  the  belt  of  thick  woods  was  of  about  the  same  width, 
being  succeeded  by  an  alternation  of  prairies  and  woods. 

On  one  occasion  we  entered,  just  after  we  had  turned  from  southwest  to  west,  a  long  and 
straight  portion  of  the  river.  From  the  lower  end  of  this  we  could  see  Independence  prairie  at 
some  miles  off,  and  which  appeared  to  cross  the  river  from  west  to  east.  We  halted  near  this 
at  9  p.  m.,  and  remained  until  the  next  morning. 

The  distance  from  Weston  to  St.  Joseph  is,  by  land,  twenty-eight  miles,  by  water  sixty  miles. 
The  river  is  very  tortuous  between  the  two  points,  flowing  in  its  course  towards  every  point  of 
the  compass. 

Several  miles  before  we  reached  St.  Joseph,  the  beautiful  prairie  on  which  it  is  situated 
appeared  in  view.  It  was  of  vast  extent,  and  covered  with  a  brilliant  verdure.  Behind  it,  to  the 
east,  were  thinly-wooded  hills,  which  appeared  to  range  in  a  southeast  and  northwest  direction. 
St.  Joseph,  a  flourishing  town  of  about  five  thousand  inhabitants,  was  formerly  an  important,  and 
is  now,  as  I  was  informed,  a  minor  rendezvous  for  California  and  Oregon  emigrants,  there  being 
a  good  road  from  it  to  Fort  Laramie  and  the  South  Pass. 

As  at  most  of  the  places  on  this  part  of  the  Missouri  where  observations  could  be  made  or 
information  obtained,  the  growth  where  we  halted,  opposite  St.  Joseph,  consisted  of  cotton-wood, 
elm,  ash,  box  alder,  maple,  bass-wood,  mulberry,  dog- wood,  and  oak. 

By  rough  measurement,  I  found  that  the  width  of  the  river  just  above  St.  Joseph  was  four 
hundred  and  sixty  yards,  and  the  velocity  of  the  current  three  miles  per  hour ;  but  this  appeared 
much  less  than  that  near  the  left  bank,  where  was  the  main  channel. 

On  the  30th  and  31st  we  passed  the  rivers  Nodawa,  Little  Tarkio,  Big  Tarkio,  Big  Nernahah, 
Nishnabotana,  and  Little  Nemahah,  which  are  respectively  seventy,  eighty,  fifty,  and  forty  yards 
wide  at  their  mouths. 

Some  of  the  islands,  and  in  some  places  the  channel,  of  this  part  of  the  river,  do  not  appear  to 
be  subject  to  those  sudden  changes  which  have  been  described.  The  Great  Nodawa  island,  with 
the  channel  on  its  eastern  side,  and  some  others,  are  now  about  as  they  were  when  described  by 
Lewis  and  Clark.  The  growth  of  cotton-wood  and  willow,  which  commences  as  soon  as  the 
island  is  formed,  protects  it  to  a  great  extent  from  the  action  of  the  current. 

On  the  30th  and  31st  the  river  continued  in  most  respects  of  the  same,  character  as  heretofore. 
The  soil  was  observed  to  be  very  sandy  and  poor  in  some  places  on  the  30th.  The  quicksand 
banks,  which  are  occasionally  found  along  this  portion  of  the  river,  are  very  destructive  to  cattle, 
they  being  sometimes  inextricably  mired  in  them,  as  they  come  to  the  river  to  water.  On  the 
31st  we  passed  Iowa  Landing,  where  is  a  ferry,  and  whence  is  a  road  connecting  with  the  emigrant 
road  to  Oregon  and  California. 

The  river  at  this  place  varies  in  width  from  four  hundred  yards  to  half  a  mile. 

On  the  1st  of  June  we  passed  Old  Fort  Kearney,  which  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  at  the 
mouth  of  Table  creek  ;  it  was  formerly  occupied  as  a  military  post.  Bolly's  Point,  on  the  oppo 
site  side  of  the  river,  is  connected  by  a  ferry  with  Old  Fort  Kearney,  and  with  the  road  which 
leads  thence  to  the  west. 

This  road  leads  to  Fort  Kearney  on  the  Nebraska,  and  thence  to  the  South  Pass.  It  is,  I  be 
lieve,  from  fifty  to  seventy  miles  shorter  than  the  road  which  leads  to  those  points  from  Fort 
Leavenworth. 

We  found  the  river  very  rapid  at  Bolly's  Point.  It  was  observed  to  be  more  tortuous  than  for 
several  previous  days. 

At  Linden  Landing,  which  we  passed  before  coming  to  Old  Fort  Kearney,  the  Nishnabotana 
river  approaches  to  within  one  hundred  yards  of  the  Missouri,  and  is  there  one  hundred  and 


236  NAVIGABILITY  OF  THE  MISSOURI. 

twenty  yards  in  width.     The  Missouri,  for  some  miles  above  and  below  Linden  Landing,  varied 
in  width  from  seven  hundred  to  one  thousand  yards. 

From  this  place  to  near  the  mouth  of  the  "Big  Sioux"  may  be  said  to  be  the  most  dangerous 
part  of  the  river  for  navigation.  I  was  informed  that  there  had  been  several  steamboats  lost 
not  far  from  Linden  Landing. 

The  banks  were  low  here,  being  destroyed  by  the  current. 

On  the  2d  of  June  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Platte.  In  uniting  with  the  Missouri,  it  forms 
a  delta,  and  debouches  through  three  channels;  the  upper  is  about  three  hundred  and  fifty,  the 
middle  two  hundred,  and  the  lower  channel  thirty  yards  wide. 

The  delta  is  composed  of  sand-bars,  which  are  covered  with  willow  and  cotton-wood.  It  is 
intersected  by  numberless  sloughs.  The  valley  of  the  river  is  about  ten  miles  wide  at  its  mouth, 
the  bluff's  which  skirt  the  Missouri  beginning  to  separate  from  that  river  and  to  extend  themselves 
up  the  Platte,  at  points  about  five  miles,  above  and  below,  from  its  mouth.  As  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  in  looking  up  the  river,  these  bluffs  could  be  seen  bordering  its  valley,  and  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  river.  They  are  known  to  border  the  valley  of  the  Platte,  at  distances  from 
the  river  varying  from  a  few  feet  to  four  miles,  to  points  some  distance  beyond  the  fork.  A  few 
miles  above  this  point,  and  between  the  north  and  south  branches,  a  dividing  ridge  commences, 
and  widening  to  the  westward,  has  its  northern  and  southern  slopes  to  continue  at  the  aforesaid 
distances  respectively  from  the  two  forks  of  the  ri  /er.  Its  top  is  very  uneven,  rising  into  mountains 
and  peaks  to  the  south,  southwest,  and  west  of  Fort  Laramie. 

From  its  mouth  to  Fort  Laramie  the  Platte  is  about  seven  hundred  miles  long,  and  is  a  less 
tortuous  stream  than  the  Missouri.  To  the  fork  its  average  width  is  about  one  mile.  The  north 
fork  varies  in  width  from  three  hundred  yards  to  half  a  mile.  The  south  fork  is  a  little  wider, 
and  otherwise  partakes  more  than  the  other  of  the  character  of  the  river  below  the  confluence. 
Below  the  fork,  the  bed  of  the  stream  is  occupied  with  vast  quantities  of  drifting  sand  or  quick 
sand,  so  that  the  average  depth  may  not  be  more  than  three  feet.  The  velocity  of  the  Platte, 
during  high  water  at  Fort  Laramie,  has  been  found  to  be  about  six  miles  per  hour.  The  differ 
ence  of  level  between  the  mouth  and  that  point  is  about  three  thousand  five  hundred  feet,  while 
between  the  mouth  and  Fort  Union  it  is  about  one  thousand  feet.  Thus  it  would  appear  that  the 
Missouri  falls  one  foot  in  a  mile,  and  has  a  velocity  of  near  five  miles  an  hour,  while  the  Platto 
falls  five  feet  in  a  mile,  and  has  a  velocity  of  about  six  miles  an  hour. 

Nearly  all  the  wood  to  be  found  on  the  Platte  grows  on  the  numerous  islands  which  occupy  its 
channel ;  these  are  generally  well  timbered  with  cotton-wood  and  willow. 

That  river  was  low  when  we  passed  it,  so  that  very  little  change  was  noticed  in  the  appearance 
of  the  Missouri  above  the  mouth  of  the  Platte.  I  was  told  that  in  very  high  water  the  current  of 
the  Missouri  appears,  so  to  speak,  cut  in  two  by  the  rapid  tlow  of  the  Platte. 

With  respect  to  the  agricultural  capabilities  of  the  valley  of  this  river,  it  may  be  said,  in  general 
terms,  that  the  Pawnee  Indians,  who  mostly  live  on  its  banks,  find  but  little  difficulty  in  cultivating 
the  Indian  corn  ;  that  at  Fort  Kearney,  near  Grand  island,  almost  all  kinds  of  vegetables,  the  In 
dian  corn,  and  some  other  species  of  grain,  can  be  produced  with  success;  that  from  the  mouth  to 
the  fork  the  valley  abounds  with  the  most  nutritious  grass,  which  will  support  stock  in  summer, 
and  from  which  may  be  procured  a  great  quantity  of  hay  for  winter  use;  and  that,  for  the  most 
part,  what  has  been  said  as  to  the  cultivation  of  vegetables  arid  grain,  arid  the  growth  of  grass, 
will  apply  to  Fort  Laramie  and  vicinity.  But  all  these  advantages,  I  would  judge,  are  less  than 
they  would  be  in  other  climates,  for  the  reason  that  in  the  portion  of  country  under  consideration 
the  vicissitudes  of  the  summer  season  are  great ;  hail-storms  and  high  winds  being  of  frequent 
occurrence,  and  the  supply  of  rain  irregular.  I  would  here  remark  that  most  of  what  I  have 
said  concerning  the  Platte  is  founded  on  observations  made  during  a  journey  I  performed  several 
years  since  to  and  from  Fort  Laramie. 

From  the  information  J  have,  I  think  J  am  justified  in  saying  that  the  Platte  cannot  be  availed 


NAVIGABILITY    OF    THE    MISSOURI.  237 

of  for  purposes  of  navigation.  The  Missouri,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Platte,  varies  in  width  from 
five  hundred  to  a  thousand  yards.  From  that  point  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  its  general  course 
is  south-southeast,  and  length  two  hundred  and  thirty-six  miles. 

The  two  ranges  of  hills  which  limit  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  continue,  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Kansas,  to  be  from  seven  to  fifteen  miles  distant  from  each  other,  the  eastern  range  touching 
the  river  at  Parkville,  Weston,  St.  Joseph  and  Elizabeth,  after  which  it  does  not  approach  it 
until  at  Sergeant's  hill;  the  western  ranges  at  Fort  Leavenworth  and  Independence  prairie,  after 
which  it  is  within  three-quarters  of  a  mile  of  the  river  to  a  point  five  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Platte.  These  hills  are  from  seventy-five  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height. 

It  has  been  remarked  that  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  and  for  some  miles  above  that  point,  both 
banks  of  the  river  are  well  wooded.  The  timber  on  the  banks  diminishes  in  quantity  from 
that  place  to  near  the  mouth  of  the  Platte.  Thence  northward  it  may  be  said  that,  while 
the  hills  are  thinly  wooded  with  scrub  oak,  elm,  and  ash,  and  the  immediate  river  banks  skirted 
with  a  belt  of  cotton- wood  and  willow,  varying  in  width  from  a  few  hundred  yards  to  two  miles, 
the  space  between  this  belt  and  the  foot  of  the  hills  consists  for  the  most  part  of  prairies  that 
are  level  and  bare  of  timber. 

What  has  been  said  with  reference  to  the  occurrence  of  ponds,  sloughs,  &c.,  in  the  river 
bottoms,  applies  to  this  section  of  the  river,  although,  I  think,  not  to  the  same  extent  as  in  the 
former  case. 

The  carboniferous  limestone  and  coal  measures  form  the  principal  geological  formation  of  this 
portion  of  the  river. 

There  is  a  ferry  at  Platteville,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Platte,  which  connects  with  a  road  to 
the  west. 

It  may  be  well  to  state  here  that  above  St.  Joseph  our  steamboat  ceased  to  travel  at  night, 
on  account  of  the  increased  difficulties  of  the  navigation.  This  necessity  will,  I  think,  be  obvi 
ated  when  the  dangerous  obstructions  are  removed,  and  a  more  thorough  knowledge  of  the  river 
gained.  It  was  found  necessary  to  clean  the  boilers  of  the  boat  every  second  night,  for  the  reason 
that,  as  she  stopped  every  night,  there  was  a  great  deal  of  sediment  from  the  muddy  water.  Or 
dinarily,  steamboats  run  from  St.  Louis  to  St.  Joseph  without  having  to  stop  for  that  purpose. 

The  next  section  of  the  river  to  be  considered  is  that  which  is  included  between  the  mouth 
of  the  Platte  and  Fort  Pierre. 

The  Missouri,  from  Fort  Pierre  to  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux,  pursues  a  southeasterly  direc 
tion;  and  from  the  last-mentioned  point  to  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  it  pursues  a  south-southeast 
erly  direction.  The  length  of  this  section  is  about  six  hundred  and  thirty-eight  miles.  The  dis 
tances  I  have  used  are  adopted  from  Nicollet's  report,  and  are  different  from  those  in  my  former 
report  to  you,  which  were  the  distances  as  estimated  by  the  captains  and  pilots  on  the  Missouri. 

We  reached  Bellevue  at  about  seven  o'clock  on  the  evening  of  the  2d  of  June,  and  remained 
there  all  night. 

Good  coal  has  been  found  on  both  banks  of  the  river  near  this  place. 

Council  Bluff  city,  situated  on  the  left  bank,  not  far  above  Bellevue,  is  the  last  town  seen  in 
ascending  the  Missouri.  It  is  the  ordinary  head  of  steamboat  navigation.  At  present  there  are 
but  about  two  steamboats  which  make  regular  voyages  to  Council  Bluff  city,  and  about  twenty 
which  trade  between  St.  Louis  and  St.  Joseph. 

The  river  is  open  all  the  year  as  high  as  Boonville;  above  and  to  Council  Bluff  city  there  is 
sometimes  about  a  month  in  winter  when  it  is  closed  by  ice. 

On  the  3d  of  June  we  passed  a  place  called  the  Mormon  Winter  Quarters,  which  is  a  great 
rendezvous  for  the  Mormons  prior  to  their  starting  for  the  Great  Salt  lake. 

There  is  a  ferry  here,  as  also  at  Bellevue  and  St.  Mary's,  Iowa.  The  road  with  which 
they  connect  leads  up  the  Platte  to  the  fork,  and  thence  up  the  North  fork,  uniting  with  the  main 
Oregon  and  California  route  near  the  Sweetwater,  and  not  crossing  the  Platte  at  all. 


238  NAVIGABILITY    OF    THE    MISSOURI. 

Most  of  the  wood  now  used  on  the  boat  was  cut  by  the  crew.  She  ran  about  a  mile  an  hour 
faster  than  usual  when  using  wood  thus  procured,  as  in  that  case  the  best  quality  was  obtained. 

Above  Council  Bluff  city  I  observed  many  extensive  tracts  of  dead  trees  standing,  and  which 
I  thought  must  have  been  killed  by  fires.  They  were  cut  for  fuel  for  the  boat  whenever  prac 
ticable. 

On  the  4th  of  June  we  passed  Old  Council  Bluffs,  a  place  which  was  once  occupied  as  a 
military  post.  We  found  the  current  very  rapid  at  about  four  o'clock  on  this  day;  and,  in 
attempting  to  proceed,  broke  part  of  the  boat's  machinery,  which  compelled  us  to  halt  for  the 
ni<?ht.  We  were  obligee!  to  stop  alongside  of  a  low  prairie  on  the  right  bank,  where  there  was 
nothing  to  afford  a  fastening.  The  flukes  of  several  anchors  had  to  be  sunk  in  the  ground  in 
order  to  effect  a  mooring.  While  here,  there  was  much  to  be  dreaded  in  case  of  the  occurrence 
of  one  of  those  terrible  storms  which  sometimes  sweep  over  this  portion  of  country.  At  this 
place  we  were,  for  the  first  time  since  our  departure  from  St.  Louis,  troubled  with  mosquitos.  On 
the  night  of  the  4th  the  boat  was  much  shaken  by  the  striking  of  large  floating  trees  against  it. 

On  the  5th  we  passed  a  forest  on  the  left  bank,  which  displayed  in  a  very  striking  manner  the 
ruinous  effects  of  a  Missouri  river  tornado.  The  largest  trees  had  been  torn  asunder — some  near 
their  roots,  some  near  their  middle — and  their  trunks  had  been  literally  twisted,  as  if  it  had  been 
done  by  a  whirlwind. 

The  soil  of  the  bottoms  on  this  part  of  the  river  is  very  rich. 

The  Little  Sioux  river,  which  we  passed  on  the  5th,  is  about  sixty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and 
is  said  to  be  navigable  for  small  steamboats  for  ten  miles  to  rapids,  these  being  susceptible  of 
improvement.  It  drains  a  country  which  has  not  many  resources. 

On  the  6th  we  halted  for  wood  at  an  island  on  the  left  bank,  near  which  occurs  the  only  settle 
ment  to  be  met  with  on  the  river  between  Council  Bluff  city  and  Sergeant's  hill. 

Just  opposite  is  a  spot  called  Pelican  island,  from  the  fact  of  its  being  a  great  resort  for  pelicans. 
We  here  first  met  with  this  species  of  fowl.  The  island  received  its  name  from  Lewis  and  Clark, 
I  believe,  on  account  of  their  having  noticed  the  same  fact. 

The  settlement  last  mentioned  is  about  eighty  miles  by  land  from  Council  Bluff  city,  and  about 
forty-five  miles  from  Sergeant's  hill.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  Wood's  hill,  where  the  bluffs  on 
the  right  bank  are  close  to  the  river  for  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  A  rapid  which  occurs  here 
is  of  about  that  length.  The  river  was  about  four  hundred  yards  wide  at  Wood's  hill,  while  at  the 
bend,  which  occurs  where  the  hill  above  begins  to  diverge  from  the  river,  it  was  about  half  a  mile 
wide. 

We  halted  on  the  night  of  the  6th  on  the  left  bank,  just  opposite  Blackbird's  hill.  This  is 
about  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  mound,  which  marks  the  spot  where 
was  buried  the  famous  Omaha  chief,  Blackbird.  We  found  the  current  very  rapid  near  this 
hill.  I  noticed  along  here  many  avenues  through  the  woods,  each  of  which  must  have  been 
formerly  a  channel  of  the  river. 

With  reference  to  the  changes  which  are  always  taking  place  in  the  Missouri,  and  which,  being 
greater  from  near  the  Big  Sioux  to  Independence  prairie  than  on  any  other  part  of  the  river, 
make  this  the  most  dangerous  section  for  navigation,  I  will  quote  here  the  observations  I  made 
at  the  time  of  performing  the  voyage  :  "  Those  changes  which  are  constantly  taking  place  in  the 
bed  of  the  Missouri,  and  in  the  direction  of  its  channel,  are  well  known.  It  would  be  very 
desirable  to  ascertain  the  general  facts  in  relation  to  them,  such  as  the  periods  of  time  within  which 
they  take  place  in  a  certain  direction,  the  causes,  &c.,  for  upon  these  might  be  based  the  best  plan 
for  the  improvement  at  some  points  of  the  river,  or  at  any  rate  the  knowledge  might  render  the 
navigation  much  more  safe  than  it  is  now.  Besides,  of  what  immense  advantage  would  it  be  to 
settlers,  who  might  thus  know  the  portion  of  the  numerous  fertile  spots  open  to  their  occupation 
not  liable  to  destruction  by  the  river.  I  have  noticed,  up  to  this  day,  many  indications  of  these 
changes,  in  both  directions,  and  it  is  probable  they  are  constantly  taking  place  at  alternate  points 


NAVIGABILITY    OF    THE    MISSOURI.  239 

on  the  river,  to  the  east  and  west  at  once,  the  destruction  of  the  bank  at  any  point  succeeding, 
and  being  a  consequence  of  that  at  a  point  above.  And  then,  again,  these  supposed  lines  across 
the  river  are  constantly  shifting  their  position  and  direction,  so  that  the  difficulty  of  arriving  at  any 
general  conclusions  is  manifest.  I  will  mention  one  or  two  facts  bearing  on  the  subject :  Lewis 
and  Clark  remarked  that  Blackbird's  hill  was  the  first  point  above  Council  Bluff  where  the  hills 
of  the  right  bank  touched  the  river.  At  present  it  is  Wood's  hill.  Nicollet  mentions  that  the  great 
bend  opposite  New  Council  Bluffs  had  disappeared  subsequently  to  his  voyage,  and  that  the  river, 
which  then  flowed  at  the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  had  removed  several  miles  to  the  east  of  them ;  now 
the  bend  has  reappeared,  and  the  river  having  returned  to  the  bluffs,  has  again  commenced 
moving  to  the  east."  And,  for  aught  I  know,  this  change  may  have  taken  place  more  than  once 
since  Nicollet's  voyage. 

After  passing  several  more  rapids  we  reached  Sergeant's  hill.  The  spot  is  noted  as  the  burial 
place  of  Sergeant  Floyd,  who  died  there  during  Lewis  and  Clark's  exploration.  Not  far  above 
is  Floyd's  river,  a  stream  with  clear  water,  well- wooded  banks,  and  whose  width  was  about  forty- 
five  yards. 

After  leaving  the  high  bluffs  on  the  left  bank  we  passed  the  Big  Sioux.  It  is  about  one  hundred 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  navigable  for  steamboats  to  the  rapids,  and  might  be  made  so  for 
a  considerable  distance  by  the  expenditure  of  a  small  sum  for  its  improvement. 

Above  the  Sioux  the  current  was  so  rapid  that  we  were  several  hours  in  going  a  few  miles. 

The  channel  of  the  Missouri  has,  .near  here,  changed  within  the  last  few  years  several  miles 
from  south  to  north. 

Coming  to  another  rapid  near  a  prairie  on  the  right  bank,  resort  was  'made  to  the  expedient, 
novel  for  a  steamboat,  of  cordelling  ;  the  crew  cordelled  the  boat  for  about  half  a  mile. 

On  the  9th  we  were  alongside  of  Hutan  Kupey  prairie,  which  extends  up  the  river,  on  the  left 
bank,  from  the  Big  Sioux  to  the  Vermilion.  On  the  right  bank  the  bluffs  were  nearly  all  day 
close  to  the  river. 

Near  Dixon's  bluff  commences  the  "cretaceous  formation"  described  by  Nicollet. 

With  reference  to  the  phenomenon  of  the  hills,  emitting  smoke  as  if  their  interior  was  burning, 
which  sometimes  takes  place  in  this  vicinity,  I  will  quote  here  the  observations  of  Mr.  Nicollet : 
"  I  believe  *  *  that  these  pseudo  volcanic  phenomena  may  be  compared  with  those  described 
as  occurring  in  other  portions  of  the  globe,  under  the  name  of  terrains  ardens  ;  although  they  are 
not  here  accompanied  by  the  emission  of  flames.  They  are  evidently  due  to  the  decomposition 
by  the  percolation  of  atmospheric  waters  to  them,  of  beds  of  pyrites,  which,  reacting  on  the  com 
bustible  materials,  such  as  lignites,  and  other  substances  of  a  vegetable  nature  in  their  vicinity, 
give  rise  to  spontaneous  combustion ;  whilst  further  reactions  (well  understood  fey  the  chemist) 
upon  the  lime  contained  in  the  clay  bed,  produce  the  masses  and  crystals  of  selenite  that 
are  observed  in  the  lower  portions  of  this  interesting  deposit."  I  was  informed  that  a  hill  was 
seen  emitting  smoke  in  1852  about  eight  miles  above  the  Vermilion. 

The  first  lignite  seen  by  us  in  ascending  was  on  the  left  bank,  not  far  above  Vermilion  river. 
From  here  it  was  occasionally  met  with  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Poplar ;  but  it  was  more 
fully  developed  between  Fort  Clark  and  Fort  Berthold  than  elsewhere  on  the  river. 

Hills  which  appear  to  have  been  subjected  to  the  influence  of  fire,  either  combustion  in  their 
interior,  or  the  burning  of  the  vegetable  substances  on  their  surface,  are  occasionally  to  be 
observed  on  both  banks,  from  near  Dixon's  bluff  to  the  mouth  of  the  Poplar ;  but  they  are  par 
ticularly  to  be  noticed  on  the  right  bank  for  some  miles  below  the  "Great  Bend."  Their  soil 
lias  an  ashy  appearance,  and  they  are  almost  destitute  of  vegetation.  They  are  called  by  the 
traders  "  Les  cotes  brulees."  The  crystals  of  selenite  to  be  found  on  their  slopes,  reflecting  very 
strongly  the  rays  of  the  sun  immediately  after  rainy  weather,  have  caused  them  to  be  called 
the  "  Shining  Hills.1'  These  crystals  were  found  by  us,  in  greater  abundance  than  elsewhere, 
on  the  hills  on  the  right  bank  below  the  mouth  of  White  river.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  same  place 


240  NAVIGARIUTY    OF    THE    MISSOURI. 

it  was  noticed  that  some  of  the  streams  were  impregnated  with  alum.  The  Indians,  I  was 
informed,  powder  and  use  the  crystals  of  selenite  for  whitening  their  bead  work.  In  an  analogous 
manner  they  avail  themselves,  for  ornamental  or  useful  purposes,  of  other  minerals,  and  even  of 
plants.  Thev  use  the  roots  of  some  plants  for  medicines;  and  of  others,  as  for  instance  the 
"pomme  de  prairie,"  they  gather  the  pod,  fruit  or  berry,  to  quench  their  thirst  when  unable  to 
procure  water. 

Above  I  have  departed  somewhat  from  the  main  subject,  the  description  of  the  Missouri  below 
Fort  Pierre,  for  the  purpose  of  stating  some  characteristics  which  are  common  to  this  and  the 
next  section  of  the  river.  On  the  10th  we  found  the  general  appearance  of  the  Missouri  and  its 
banks  not  very  different  from  what  it  was  on  the  9th.  I  was  informed  that  past  experience 
shows  the  navigation  is  much  easier  above  than  below  the  mouth  of  the  Vermilion. 

We  passed  on  the  10th  the  rivers  Vermilion,  Little  Bow,  and  James.  The  first  appeared  to 
be  about  forty-five  yards  wide  at  its  mouth;  the  James  appeared  only  twenty  yards  wide,  but 
is  much  more  above  the  entrance;  it  is  navigable  for  canoes,  but  it  is  not  likely  that  it  can  be 
turned  to  a  useful  account  as  a  navigable  stream.  It  is  important  on  account  of  its  extent. 

On  the  llth,  12th,  and  13th,  the  Missouri  continued  of  nearly  the  same  character  as  here 
tofore.  The  soil  of  the  bottom  was  still  rich,  but  was  becoming  less  so  as  we  ascended. 

On  the  13th  we  passed  Bazil  creek,  the  river  L'eau  qui  Court,  and  Poucah  creek.  The  first 
is  about  seventy-five  yards  wide  at  its  mouth;  the  second,  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards;  and  the 
third,  forty  yards.  The  L'eau  qui  Court  takes  its  rise  at  a  lake  about  thirty  miles  from  Fort 
Laramie;  it  is,  when  high,  navigable  for  canoes. 

The  preceding  portion  of  this  report  was  finished  before  I  left  Olympia. 

In  coming  from  that  place  lo  Washington,  I  lost,  as  you  are  aware,  most  of  my  notes  of  the 
survey  of  the  Missouri. 

What  follows  of  the  report  is  founded  on  such  notes  as  I  still  have,  consisting  of  the  journal 
of  Sergeant  Collins,  one  of  the  members  of  the  party  ;  a  copy,  taken  in  Olympia,  of  the  meteoro 
logical  observations,  and  the  original  records  of  astronomical  observations,  and  of  collections  made 
in  the  departments  of  natural  history,  geology,  and  botany.  From  these  I  think  I  can  state  all 
that  is  essential  for  the  report.  But  I  shall  be  unable  to  furnish  you  a  map  made  as  I  have 
indicated ;  and  I  cannot  state  the  depths  of  the  channel  of  the  river  as  found  by  the  soundings  we 
took  above  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux. 

It  has  been  remarked  that,  during  a  great  part  of  our  voyage,  the  river  appeared  tending  to 
approach  the  western  range  of  bluffs,  leaving  the  greater  part  of  the  valley  to  the  east  of  it. 
This  remark  will  not  apply  above  the  mouth  of  the  Vermilion  ;  above  which  point  also  the  bluffs 
began  to  become  closer  to  each  other.  On  the  13th  we  first  observed  cedar  trees  growing  in 
small  numbers  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  As  there  was  moonlight  on  the  night  of  the  13th,  we 
travelled  until  about  11  o'clock.  On  the  14th  we  halted  at  about  half-after  5  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  at  Cedar  island  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  wood  ;  we  remained  there  all  night. 
The  island  is  about  two  miles  long,  and  is  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  cedar,  intermingled  with 
cotton-wood;  the  soil  is  tolerably  fertile ;  we  found  ripe  strawberries  in  abundance.  At  about 
8  o'clock  all  the  party  but  Sergeant  Collins  crossed  the  river  to  the  right  bank,  for  the  purpose 
of  taking  observations  and  making  collections.  We  found  the  bluffs  very  high,  and  rising  from 
the  river  somewhat  in  the  form  of  steps.  In  going  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  river,  we 
ascended  a  succession  of  hills,  each  higher  than  the  last;  and  when  we  began  to  return,  the 
bluffs  to  the  west  of  us  still  continued  to  rise.  The  highest  point  we  reached  was  about  six 
hundred  and  seventy-six  feet  above  the  river.  We  returned  to  the  boat  at  2  o'clock  on 
the  15th ;  we  were  much  delayed  until  about  9  a.  m.  by  sand-bars.  Having  passed  White 
river  on  the  16th,  and  on  the  17th  the  American,  we  came  to  the  "  Great  Bend,"  a  remarkable 
deflection,  in  which  the  river  suddenly  changes  its  course  from  east  to  northwest,  then  east,  and 
then  southwest.  The  boat  halting  at  the  foot  of  the  "Great  Bend,"  I  sent  a  party  across  the 


NAVIGABILITY    OP    THE    MISSOURI.  241 

neck  of  land,  with  directions  to  rejoin  us  when  we  should  reach  the  opposite  side.  They  col 
lected  some  interesting  fossils,  and  reported  that  the  distance  across  was  about  two  and  a  half 
miles ;  the  distance  around  the  bend  was  about  twenty-five  miles. 

On  the  18th,  having  passed  Fort  George,  a  trading  post  on  the  right  bank,  and  an  island,  on 
which  was  a  farm  belonging  to  Chouteau  &  Co.,  we  came  in  sight  of  Fort  Pierre  at  6  p.  m. 
In  approaching  the  post  we  took  the  channel  to  the  west  of  an  island,  but  found  it  impossible  to 
pass  a  sand-bar  near  its  head.  Retracing  our  course,  we  ascended  by  the  eastern  channel,  and 
when  within  about  three  miles  of  the  fort  a  terrific  storm  compelled  us  to  halt.  We  reached 
Fort  Pierre  at  7  a.  m.  on  the  19th,  and  remained  there  until  the  morning  of  the  21st. 

The  Missouri,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  to  Fort  Pierre,  varies  in  width  from  four  hundred 
to  one  thousand  yards.  "Bon  Homme "  island,  which  we  passed  on  the  12th,  seems  to  be 
somewhat  exempt  from  sudden  changes,  being  nearly  as  I  should  suppose  it  was  when  described 
by  Lewis  and  Clark. 

I  noticed  eight  rapids  between  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  and  Sergeant's  hill,  and  thirteen  between 
the  last-mentioned  point  and  the  mouth  of  the  Poplar.  A  chain  of  rocks  extends  across  the  river 
at  a  locality  called  the  "  Three  Islands,"  and  another  at  the  foot  of  the  "  Great  Bend." 

On  the  10th,  llth,  12th,  13th,  14th,  and  JSth,  the  boat  was  delayed  by  storms.  She  could  not 
proceed  with  a  strong  side  or  head  wind,  but  of  course  was  aided  in  her  progress  by  a  wind  from 
the  rear. 

On  the  13th,  16th,  17th,  and  ISth,  it  was  found  very  difficult  to  procure  a  sufficiency  of  fuel. 
Log  houses,  the  remains  of  abandoned  trading  posts,  were  cut  to  pieces  whenever  met  with,  and 
furnished  good,  dry  wood.  Cedar  was  also  much  sought  after;  but  neither  kind  of  fuel  was  to 
be  obtained  in  abundance. 

The  banks  of  the  Missouri  might  be  almost  continuously  settled  as  far  upas  the  mouth  of  the 
L'eau  qui  Court.  Above  that  point,  I  think  about  twenty-five  per  cent,  of  them  possess  that  ad 
vantage.  The  land  for  some  miles  below  Fort  Pierre  appeared  to  be  more  rich  than  that  for 
some  distance  below  the  "  Great  Bend."  In  ascending  from  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  to  that 
point,  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  gradually  becomes  less  fertile. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux  to  that  of  the  White  Earth  the  Missouri  separates  the  Ter 
ritory  of  Minnesota  from  the  Indian  territory.  There  is  a  road  from  Fort  Pierre  to  Fort  Laramie, 
which  is  about  three  hundred  and  thirty  miles  long. 

The  next  and  last  portion  of  the  river  to  be  considered  is  that  which  is  included  between  Fort 
Pierre  and  the  mouth  of  the  Poplar. 

From  the  last-mentioned  point  to  Fort  Union  the  Missouri  pursues  a  direction  a  little  south  of 
east,  and  thence  to  the  mouth  of  White  Earth,  a  little  north  of  east. 

The  latitudes  of  these  three  points  are  respectively  about  48°  05'  48",  and  48°  07'  30".  Without 
all  my  notes  1  am  unable  to  state  precisely  at  what  point  the  Missouri  attains  its  highest  north 
latitude,  but  I  think  it  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Muddy. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  White  Earth  to  Fort  Clark,  the  direction  of  the  Missouri  is  southeast, 
and  thence  to  Fort  Pierre  it  is  south.  The  length  of  this  section  is  about  715  miles. 

Above  Fort  Union  the  river  varies  in  width  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred 
yards ;  at  that  point  it  has  been  found,  by  pacing  on  the  ice  in  winter,  to  be  three  hundred  paces 
wide  ;  and  from  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Pierre  it  varies  in  width  from  three  hundred  paces  to  eight 
hundred  yards.  I  would  remark  that  my  statements  of  the  general  width  of  the  river  are  merely 
estimates,  as  I  had  very  few  opportunities  to  make  measurements. 

Not  far  north  of  Fort  Pierre  a  second  "great  bend"  occurs,  of  which  the  distance  across  is 
about  eight  miles ;  that  around  about  twenty -five  miles  ;  its  apex  is  towards  the  west.  A  third 
"great  bend"  is  found  not  far  north  of  Fort  Berthold,  of  which  the  distance  across  is  about 
twelve  miles;  that  around  about  forty  miles,  and  having  its  apex  towards  the  southwest.  These 
are  distinct  from  that  general  change  of  direction  in  which  the  Missouri,  after  flowing  from  the 
31  / 


242  NAVIGABILITY   OF    THE    MISSOURI. 

southwest,  runs  near  the  4Sth  parallel  to  the  mouth  of  the  White  Earth,  and  then  suddenly 
turns  to  the  south-southeast  and  south.  This  is  called  the  "  Great  Northern  Bend  of  the 
Missouri." 

Besides  this  river,  the  great  features  of  this  region  are  the  Yellowstone,  which  takes  its  rise  in 
the  Rocky  mountains  not  far  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri ;  the  Black  Hills,  \vhich, 
starting  from  the  Platte  not  far  above  Fort  Laramie,  pursue  a  north-northeasterly  direction  par 
allel  to  the  Little  Missouri,  and  finally  become  blended  with  the  bluffs  of  the  Missouri  east  of 
Fort  Union ;  and  the  Grand  Coteau  or  ridge,  which,  running  nearly  parallel  to  the  Missouri  at 
an  average  distance  of  about  forty  miles,  connects,  according  to  my  information,  with  the  Rocky 
mountains  north  of  the  49th  parallel,  and  divides  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  from  those  of  the 
Saskatchawan,  from  those  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  and  from  those  of  the  Mississippi.  I 
think  it  unquestionable  that  only  in  a  far-distant  future  will  any  great  extent  of  this  country  be 
inhabited  by  white  people.  The  valleys  of  the  streams  alone  seem  now  to  present  inducements. 
The  hills  and  ridges  are  generally  covered  with  a  nutritious  grass,  more  sought  after  by  cattle 
than  that  in  the  valleys.  The  great  variety  of  flowered  plants  to  be  met  with  gives  a  degree  of 
beauty  to  the  undulating  plains. 

The  following  is  a  general  statement  of  the  ease  of  navigation  of  the  Missouri  above  Fort 
Pierre.  As  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  White  Earth  the  obstructions  are  comparatively  few,  and 
the  navigation  safe  ;  although  the  main  fact  on  which  I  state  this,  the  ease  and  speed  with  which 
we  passed  over  that  portion  of  the  river,  is  partly  due  to  the  light  draught,  three  and  a  half  feet, 
of  the  steamboat  above  Fort  Pierre.  Above  the  mouth  of  the  White  Earth  the  river  has  an 
exceedingly  tortuous  course,  and  is  impeded  by  an  unusual  number  of  sand-bars,  snags,  &c.  In 
addition  to  which,  above  Fort  Union  it  becomes  much  more  narrow,  and  is  yery  rapid  at  all 
bends,  many  of  which,-  instead  of  being  curves,  are  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  right  angle.  It  was  in 
this  part  of  the  river  that  it  was  noticed  nearly  every  tributary  corresponded  to  an  island  in  the 
Missouri  near  its  mouth — sometimes  below,  sometimes  above.  This  is,  perhaps,  due  in  part  to 
the  difference  in  velocity  of  the  streams. 

The  "cretaceous  formation"  continues  for  some  distance  above  Fort  Pierre,  and  is  succeeded 
by  the  formation  of  clay  and  marl  containing  beds  of  lignite,  which  continue  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Poplar.  As  the  water  of  the  Missouri  at  Fort  Benton  is  clear,  and  as  from  the  Poplar  to  the 
Mississippi  it  has  a  deep  muddy  color,  this,  it  seems  to  me,  must  be  imparted  by  the  flow  through 
the  clay  and  marl  formation. 

We  left  Fort  Pierre  early  on  the  morning  of  the  21st.  The  bluffs  at  this  place  are  about  four 
miles  from  each  other,  and  equally  distant  from  the  river.  During  the  day  I  noted  many  points 
that  were  suitable  for  settlements  ;  they  had  a  tolerably  rich  soil  and  produced  fine  grass.  The 
river  in  many  places  was  well  timbered  with  cotton-wood,  intermingled  with  which  was  a  small 
quantity  of  ash.  Cedars  were  observed  in  small  numbers  in  the  ravines.  Many  tracts  of  dead 
trees  standing  were  seen  on  the  "Burnt  Hills"  along  here;  there  were  noticed  indications  of 
"slides,"  and  of  the  earth  having  caved  in,  probably  on  account  of  combustion  in  the  interior. 

On  the  22d,  the  river  was  wide  and  not  very  rapid.  We  had  to  halt  early  in  the  afternoon  on 
account  of  a  high  wrind. 

On  the  23d,  the  character  of  the  river  and  country  was  not  materially  different  from  what  it 
was  observed  to  be  on  the  22d. 

On  the  24th,  it  was  found  difficult  to  procure  a  sufficiency  of  fuel.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed 
the  "  Grindstone  Buttes" — a  singular  group  of  hills,  whose  sides  slope  from  the  prairie  at  angles 
of  from  30°  to  45°.  They  were  covered  with  grass,  but  no  trees  were  observed  to  grow  on  them. 
Of  a  great  extent  of  this  portion  of  the  river,  both  below  the  mouth  of  the  White  Earth  and 
above  Fort  Union,  it  may  be  remarked  that,  outside  of  the  river  bluffs,  there  are  plains  or  terraces 
several  miles  wide,  and  from  which  rise  other  ranges  of  hills  or  bluffs.  For  some  distance  above 
the  "Grindstone  Buttes,"  it  is  characteristic  that  many  similar  hills,  or  groups  of  hills,  occur  on 


NAVIGABILITY   OF    THE    MISSOURI.  243 

those  plains  or  terraces.     In  shape  they  are  sometimes  conical  or  truncated,  sometimes  dome- 
shaped,  and  occasionally  have  the  form  of  ridges. 
The  steamboat  did  not  halt  on  the  night  of  the  24th. 

On  the  25th,  the  land  appeared  richer  than  on  the  24th.  The  hills,  it  was  observed,  were  not 
as  high  nor  so  irregular,  and  produced  better  grass.  Very  little  or  no  lignite  was  seen.  The 
"Burnt  Hills"  almost  entirely  disappeared.  The  bottoms  were  wide  and  well  wooded.  Besides 
the  cotton-wood,  there  were  noticed  the  ash,  elm,  willow,  and  in  the  ravines  the  cedar,  all  of 
which  were  small  in  size  except  the  cotton-wood. 

On  the  26th,  the  river  was  narrow,  tortuous,  and  swift.  Being  high,  it  had  in  several  places 
overflowed  the  wide  bottoms  at  the  bends.  In  the  afternoon  we  noticed,  at  some  distance  from 
the  river,  high  hills  shaped  somewhat  like  a  sugar-loaf,  and  which  were  entirely  bare  of  vegeta 
tion.  The  great  number  of  grasshoppers  that  we  saw  in  this  portion  of  country  was  remark 
able.  At  one  point  they  might  be  said  literally  almost  1o  cover  the  ground.  By  their  motion  in 
the  grass,  they  made  quite  a  loud  noise.  I  was  informed  that  often  they  frustrate  the  attempts 
at  cultivation  made  by  the  Indians,  and  at  the  trading-posts. 

On  the  27th,  we  passed  the  "Square  Buttes,"  which  rise  from  the  plain  at  angles  of  about  45°. 
They  are  truncated,  and  average  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  In  the  afternoon  we 
were  compelled  to  halt,  on  account  of  a  high  wind.  During  the  night  it  was  very  cool,  and  the 
wind  blew  furiously  from  the  northwest. 

On  the  28th,  we  did  not  travel  on  account  of  the  storm.  The  day  was  so  cool  that  at  noon 
the  thermometer  stood  at  54°  above  zero.  There  were  several  pieces  of  ice  seen  floating  down 
the  river.  I  was  furnished  with  the  following  explanation  of  this  fact:  In  winter,  the  river  being 
frozen,  the  ice  occasionally  breaks  up  at  some  points,  as  between  Fort  Union  and  Fort  Benton,  in 
consequence  of  which  an  accumulation  takes  place  at  points  below,  where  the  same  "  breaking 
up"  does  not  occur.  Some  fragments  of  this  ice  are  thrown  ashore,  and  perhaps  by  high  winds 
become  subsequently  covered  with  sand.  In  this  way  they  are  preserved  from  melting,  and 
when  the  river  rises  in  June  are  carried  down  the  stream. 

We  reached  Fort  Clark  early  on  the  morning  of  the  29th.  The  Indians  at  this  place  cultivate, 
with  tolerable  success,  corn  and  some  vegetables.  The  country  for  some  distance  above  this 
post  may  be  thus  described:  While  on  the  left  bank  there  were  wide  bottoms  and  extensive 
prairies  producing  fine  grass,  on  the  right  were  bluffs  one  hundred  and  fifty  or  two  hundred  feet 
high,  and  nearly  vertical,  containing  lignite  and  red  clay,  and  having  near  them  a  number  of 
hillocks  bare  of  vegetation,  and  in  shape  somewhat  resembling  a  sugar-loaf.  The  "  Burnt  Hills" 
reappeared  in  some  places. 

We  reached  Fort  Berthold  at  1  o'clock  on  the  30th.  The  Indians  here  cultivate  the  land  to 
some  extent.  In  the  vicinity  of  this  post,  as  well  as  above  Fort  Union,  it  is  characteristic  that 
jnany  ranges  of  nearly  vertical  bluffs,  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  bare 
of  vegetation,  occur,  rising  from  the  plains  or  terraces  of  which  mention  has  been  made.  By  the 
variety  of  colors  imparted  to  them  by  the  red  clay,  lignite,  and  a  white  substance  they  contain, 
they  present  a  picturesque  appearance.  The  white  is  sometimes  the  color  of  a  rocky  stratum, 
and  sometimes  it  is  from  a  mere  incrustation.  These  bluffs  occasionally  run  parallel  to  the  river, 
but  generally  make  an  acute  angle  with  its  course.  They  sometimes  have  quaint  forms,  remind 
ing  one  of  the  appearance  which  old  towns  or  castles  have  when  seen  in  the  distance.  They  are 
often  called  by  the,  traders  "les  mauvaises  terres,"  on  account  of  the  species  of  quagmire  they 
contain.  These  are  depressions  filled  with  clay,  which  is  covered  with  a  white  incrustation, 
giving  the  surface  the  appearance  of  being  firm. 

On  the  1st  of  July  we  passed  the  mouths  of  the  Little  Missouri  and  White  Earth  rivers.     The 
extent  of  the  forests  of  dead  trees  to  be  seen  near  the  latter  stream  is  remarkable. 
On  the  morning  of  the  2d  the  river  was  overhung  by  a  dense  fog. 
We  passed  Fort  William  and  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  in  the  afternoon  of  the  third.     The 


244  NAVIGABILITY    OF    THE    MISSOURI. 

water  of  this  stream  had  a  deep  muddy  color,  like  that  of  the  Missouri.  It  was  about  four  hun 
dred  yards  \vide  at  its  mouth,  but  this  contained  a  large  sand-bar.  I  was  informed  that  the  Yel 
lowstone  might  be  navigable  for  two  hundred  miles  to  nipids,  these  being  susceptible  of  improve 
ment,  and  beyond  which  no  obstruction  would  occur  for  a  considerable  distance.  If  this  were 
found  by  future  examination  to  be  correct,  that  river  might  become  the  means  of  communication, 
by  steamboats,  with  a  large  area  of  country;  more  particularly  if  it  be  supposed  that  favorable 
routes  exist  from  the  head  of  that  navigation  to  Fort  Laramie,  Fort  Hall,  and  the  Salt  lake,  and 
to  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  river. 

A  short  distance  below  Fort  Union  the  Missouri  appeared,  so  to  speak,  entirely  choked  by 
sand-bars.  For  two  or  three  hours  the  channel  could  not  be  found.  But  finally  we  proceeded 
by  a  narrow  and  deep  slough,  between  a  sand-bar  and  the  left  bank.  We  reached  Fort  Union 
at  about  seven  p.  m. 

The  fourth  was  employed  in  unloading  the  boat  of  such  freight  as  was  not  to  go  to  Fort  Benton. 
Her  draught  above  Fort  Union  was  about  two  feet.  The  Fur  Company  has  a  farm  about  eight 
miles  below  this  post.  Not  much  success  has  attended  the  attempts  at  cultivation.  The  grass 
hoppers  are  a  source  of  much  injury  to  the  crops.  On  the  morning  of  the  fifth  we  proceeded, 
with  the  intention  of  going  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  Milk  river.  I  left  all  the  party  at  Fort  Union 
except  Sergeant  Collins  and  private  Wilson,  of  the  sappers.  The  river  was  averaged  about  two 
hundred  yards  wide,  and  was  not  unfavorable  for  navigation.  The  channel  was  about  seven  feet 
deep,  the  river  being  nearly  six  feet  below  high-water  mark.  The  current  was  not  very  rapid. 
The  Missouri  generally  flowed  through  a  narrow  bottom,  with  bare,  rugged,  clay  bluffs  on  each 
side. 

I  would  remark  here  that,  during  our  ascent  to  Fort  Clark,  the  river  was  generally  rising  at  the 
rate  of  from  two  to  seven  inches  during  a  night. 

At  one  point  above  Fort  Union  I  noticed  that  the  soil  was  rich,  and  somewhat  resembled  that 
in  the  State  of  Missouri.  Some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  retentive  nature  of  the  soil  above  that 
post  from  the  statement  of  the  following  fact:  Directly  after  a  profuse  rain,  and  when  the  rivulets 
were  swollen,  the  rain-water  was,  for  some  distance,  observed  falling  from  the  bank  into  the  river 
in  an  unbroken  sheet. 

On  the  sixth  we  passed,  in  the  afternoon,  the  mouth  of  the  Poplar,  a  clear  stream  about  sixty 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  Just  opposite  was  the  dry  bed  of  a  stream  about  eighty  yards  wide,  and 
now  called  "  Little  Dry"  creek.  It  was,  I  believe,  named  by  Lewis  and  Clark  "Two  Thousand 
Miles"  creek.  Several  extensive  prairies  are  seen  in  this  vicinity,  particularly  on  the  right  bank, 
which  produced  nothing  but  wild  sage. 

About  seven  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Poplar,  there  were  encountered  difficulties  from 
sand-bars  similar  to  those  met  with  at  Fort  Union.  I  think  they  could  have  been  overcome.  But 
the  managers  of  the  boat  thought  best  to  return  from  this  point.  They  accordingly  had  carried 
ashore  the  Fort  Benton  freight,  which  was  to  be  conveyed  to  that  post  by  cordelling  a  large  keel- 
boat.  We  returned  to  Fort  Union  on  the  ninth.  No  material  obstructions  were  met  with  in  our 
descent.  The  steamboat  travelled  with  nearly  three  times  the  speed  she  did  when  ascending. 

We  had  an  opportunity  of  verifying  the  survey  of  this  portion  of  the  river.  It  was  found  that 
the  courses  and  features  of  the  country  were  pretty  accurately  laid  down,  while  the  estimates  of 
distances  were  somewhat  erroneous.  Wood  appeared  to  be  more  abundant  from  Fort  Berthold 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Poplar  than  on  any  part  of  the  river  above  the  mouth  of  the  Platte.  I  noted 
several  different  kinds  of  cotton-wood  and  willow.  In  travelling  over  so  extensive  a  region  from 
south  to  north,  it  was  to  be  expected  that  changes  would  take  place  in  the  growth.  I  believe 
most  of  the  trees  which  grow  in  southern  latitudes  disappear  from  the  banks  of  the  river  south  of 
the  northern  boundary  of  Missouri.  The  last  sycamores  to  be  seen  in  ascending  were,  I  was 
informed,  at  the  first  bend  above  the  "  Mormon  Winter  Quarters."  In  high  water,  the  greater 
part  of  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  may  be  thus  described  :  They  are  from  two  to  twenty  feet  high, 


NAVIGABILITY    OF    THE    MISSOURI. 

vertical,  and,  in  horizontal  projection,  would  be  zigzag  lines,  in  consequence  of  the  earth  con 
tinually  falling  into  the  water  at  numerous  points.  In  low  water,  I  was  informed,  these  banks 
often  have  at  their  base  a  pebbly  or  rocky  beach,  inclining  to  the  water's  edge,  and  being  from 
ten  to  forty  feet  wide. 

After  the  Yellowstone,  the  principal  tributaries  of  the  upper  portion  of  the  river  are  the  Moreau, 
the  Cannon  Ball,  and  the  Shayenne  ;  they  are  only  navigable  for  canoes  or  buffalo-boats. 

The  following  general  facts  were  principally  furnished  me  by  persons  who  appeared  to  be  well 
acquainted  with  the  Missouri : 

However  difficult  to  find  it,  there  is  always  a  good  channel  in  the  river.  In  consequence  of 
the  diminished  effects  of  the  current,  the  channel,  though  not  so  deep,  is  less  changeable,  and 
more  safe  for  navigation  bv  steamboats  of  light  draught  in  low  than  in  high  water. 

As  steamboats  descending  the  river  proceed  with  nearly  treble  the  speed  they  would  have  in 
ascending,  they  find  in  sand-bars  a  much  more  formidable  obstacle  in  the  former  than  in  the  latter 
case ;  it  is  often  necessary  to  unload  in  part  before  they  can  be  relieved  after  encountering  the 
bar  in  descending. 

Along  that  portion  of  the  river  where  it  flows  through  the  great  prairies,  the  frequency  of 
storms,  generally  from  the  northwest,  is  a  very  serious  impediment  to  the  navigation.  This  was 
found  to  be  true  during  the  voyage  of  our  steamboat,  except  that  the  storms  were  not  generally 
from  the  northwest. 

The  Missouri  is  affected  by  two  annual  floods,  which  greatly  facilitate  navigation  by  the  larger 
steamboats.  The  first  and  lesser  flood  is  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  snows  on  the  prairies, 
and  generally  takes  place  in  May ;  the  second  arises  from  the  melting  of  the  mountain  snows, 
and  occurs  in  June.  Steamboats,  heavily  freighted,  and  bound  for  the  Yellowstone,  should  leave 
St.  Louis  about  the  middle  of  April,  in  order  to  have  the  full  benefit  of  the  June  rise.  The  river 
above  Council  Bluff  city  is  closed  by  ice  from  about  the  middle  of  November  to  the  first  of  April. 

It  is  thought  that  steamboats  could,  were  it  not  for  the  ice,  ascend  to  the  mouth  of  Milk  river 
throughout  the  year ;  this  being  the  highest  point  to  which  the  navigation  has  heretofore  been 
carried. 

I  believe  the  voyage  of  the  "Robert  Campbell"  in  1853,  forty- two  days  ascending  to  Fort 
Union,  and  about  seventeen  days  descending  thence  to  St.  Louis,  may  be  taken  as  an  average  trip. 
But  it  appears  to  me  that  there  exist  almost  certain  means  of  reducing  the  time  of  ascent  at 
least  one-third,  and  possibly  one-half.  The  same  steamboat  can  easily  perform  in  one  season 
two  trips  to  Fort  Union  and  back. 

With  reference  to  the  improvements  that  might  be  made  of  the  Missouri,  my  information  was 
not  of  the  character  to  enable  me  to  estimate  their  cost,  or  to  say  where  or  in  what  manner  they 
should  be  applied.  For  that  purpose  a  more  detailed  survey  should  be  made,  and  the  person 
having  charge  of  such  should  become  acquainted  with  every  portion  of  the  river  at  all  stages  and 
seasons. 

It  occurs  to  me  that  it  would  be  highly  advantageous  to  adopt  some  system  for  maintaining  a 
knowledge  of  the  river  at  all  points;  and  for  this  purpose,  to  establish  posts  of  observation,  at 
which  competent  persons  should  ascertain  and  keep  an  account  of  all  information  bearing  on  the 
subject  of  the  navigation.  A  telegraph  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  besides  being  valuable  in 
other  respects,  would,  it  seems  to  me,  be  very  useful  for  the  transmission  of  that  information  from 
post  to  post;  and  steamboats  in  passing  could  thus  communicate,  for  the  benefit  of  those  behind 
them,  the  state  of  the  river  above  or  below  the  posts  of  observation.  Most  of  the  obstructions 
in  this  river,  I  think,  are  of  such  a  character  that  it  will  be  necessary  to  remove  them  every  two 
or  three  years.  An  engineer,  or  board  of  engineers,  should  be  appointed,  whose  duty  should  con 
sist  in  reporting,  from  time  to  time,  to  the  people,  merchants,  or  State  legislatures  interested,  or 
to  Congress,  what  obstructions  should  be  removed;  furnishing  estimates,  and  stating  in  what 


246  NAVIGABILITY   OF    THE    MISSOURI. 

manner  the  work  should  be  done,  as  well  as  in  superintending  all  arrangements  made  to  facilitate 
the  navigation. 

Any  system  which  might  be  adopted  should,  of  course,  bear  a  proper  relation  to  the  import 
ance  of  the  objects  to  be  attained,  and  to  the  interests  concerned. 

If  I  am  not  mistaken,  the  merchants  in  some  of  our  large  seaport  towns  have  systems  anal 
ogous  to  the  above  for  securing  the  safety  of  their  vessels  and  goods. 

By  the  adoption  of  some  such  arrangement  as  I  have  mentioned,  it  appears  to  me  that  the 
prosperity  of  the  Missouri  might  be  greatly  enhanced,  and  its  importance  developed  as  part  of  a 
line  of  communication  from  the  heart  of  the  Mississippi  to  that  of  the  Columbia,  and  to  Puget 
sound.  In  your  instructions  to  me,  you  remarked  that  the  principal  object  of  the  survey  of  the 
Missouri  was  to  ascertain  the  reliance  to  be  placed  upon  it  for  the  transportation  of  supplies  for 
the  construction  of  the  proposed  northern  Pacific  railroad.  The  extent  to  which  it  may  be  relied 
upon  may  be  judged  of  by  combining  with  what  is  known  of  it  the  prices  of  labor  and  supplies 
at  its  lower  depot  or  depots,  and  then  comparing  it  with  the  other  means  of  transportation  which 
are  likely  to  come  into  competition :  these  are,  transportation  from  the  Mississippi  by  wagons, 
and  that  from  the  same  by  the  railroad  itself.  Into  this  discussion  or  comparison  it  is  not  my 
province  to  enter.  ^ 

Your  instructions  required  me  to  report  as  to  the  kind  of  steamboat  which  should  be  used  for  a 
future  detailed  survey  of  the  river.  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  should  be  a  high-pressure 
western  river  steamboat,  of  as  light  draught  as  practicable,  so  made  as  to  obey  very  quickly  the 
rudder,  and  equipped  with  powerful  engines.  The  upper  wood-work  should  have  as  little  eleva 
tion  above  the  hull  as  would  be  consistent  with  convenience  and  with  the  space  required  for  the 
machinery.  I  almost  inclined  to  the  opinion  that  the  usual  second  story  should  be  dispensed  with, 
if  it  were  found  possible  to  place  elsewhere  the  cabin  accommodations. 

In  concluding  the  report  upon  the  Missouri,  I  have  to  express  my  regret  at  the  incompleteness 
of  the  survey.  The  members  of  the  party  of  which  I  had  charge  were  but  passengers  on  the 
steamboat,  who  made  the  best  use  of  the  time  and  facilities  at  their  command  to  fulfil  the  duties 
indicated  in  your  orders. 

Your  instructions  required  that,  on  arriving  at  Fort  Union,  I  should  reconnoitre  the  country  in 
the  vicinity  of  that  post. 

Preparations  were  accordingly  made  on  the  9th,  10th,  and  llth  of  July,  by  procuring  the 
necessary  horses  and  saddles,  preparing  a  wagon,  &c.  The  party  consisted,  besides  myself,  .of 
Lieutenant  Mullan,  Mr.  Graham,  five  of  the  sappers,  and  four  employes.  One  of  the  sappers, 
artificer  White,  I  left  at  the  fort,  to  keep  up  a  series  of  meteorological  observations,  and  to  take 
care  of  the  provisions  and  other  stores  in  depot  for  the  use  of  the  survey. 

We  started  on  the  morning  of  the  12th,  travelled  nearly  north-northwest  to  a  point  about 
opposite  the  head  of  the  Big  Muddy ;  then  nearly  north-northeast  to  the  Grand  Coteau  and  a 
point  near  the  head  of  the  White  Earth;  then  nearly  south-southeast  until  we  struck  that  stream; 
then  down  it  for  some  miles,  and  then  back  to  Fort  Union ;  the  entire  distance  travelled  being 
two  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles.  We  had  no  barometer. 

The  following  is  a  general  description  of  the  country  passed  over: 

The  country  between  the  Big  Muddy  and  White  Earth  rivers  may  be  characterized  as  being  a 
vast  plain,  destitute  of  timber,  and  covered  with  boulders  and  pebbles  of  granite,  mountain  lime 
stone,  &c.,  broken  towards  the  north  by  innumerable  hillocks,  the  depressions  between  which  are 
occupied  by  ponds  and  lakes,  and  intersected  towards  the  south  by  valleys,  through  which  flow 
the  tributaries  of  the  Missouri. 

The  smaller  of  these  streams,  and  the  Big  Muddy,  take  their  rise  south  of  the  parallel  of  43° 
3S',  while  the  Miry  and  White  Earth  have  theirs  not  far  from  the  foot  of  the  Grand  Coteau. 

The  summit  of  this  range,  where  we  struck  it,  WPS  in  latitude  48°  45'  46",  and  its  general 
direction  was,  as  I  had  been  informed,  a  liulc  to  the  north  of  west.  When  we  were  about  six 


NAVIGABILITY   OF    THE    MISSOURI.  247 

miles  to  the  south  of  the  Coteau,  it  appeared  like  a  "  distant  shore,"  which  sloped  at  an  angle  of 
about  30°,  and  whose  height  was  about  one  hundred  feet ;  but  the  ascent  of  it  was  so  gradual, 
that  when  we  were  passing  from  the  foot  to  the  summit,  we  could  not  perceive  that  we  were 
ascending. 

All  the  streams  which  have  been  mentioned  are  very  small,  and  can  never  be  of  any  value  for 
navigation.  They  are  liable,  particularly  the  White  Earth,  to  very  high  freshets. 

Connecting  with  the  bluffs  which  limit  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  at  Fort  Union  is  a  low  ridge, 
which  pursues  a  north-northwesterly  course  to  about  the  parallel  of  48°  38',  and  thence  runs  to 
the  northeast,  and  becomes  merged  into  the  Grand  Coteau. 

This  ridge  divides  the  waters  which  flow  into  the  Missouri  above  Fort  Union  from  those  which 
enter  below.  Where  it  turns  to  the  northeast,  there  is  a  wide  valley,  through  which  flows  a 
small  stream  connecting  a  series  of  ponds,  marshes,  and  lake.  This  valley,  from  having  been 
parallel  to  the  ridge,  turns  to  the  west  and  continues  in  a  direction  towards  the  Big  Muddy  river. 

About  thirty-two  miles  north-northwest  of  Fort  Union  is  a  chain  of  sand-hills,  covered  with 
a  thick  growth  of  small  willow.  These  very  much  resemble  what  are  called  "moraines."  I 
noticed  near  the  head  of  the  Miry  river  an  extensive  outcrop  of  lignite,  similar  to  that  seen  on 
the  Missouri. 

I  have  to  transmit  herewith  an  itinerary  of  the  country  we  passed  over,  a  copy  of  the  meteoro 
logical  observations,  and  a  profile  of  the  Missouri. 

The  map  which  I  wish  to  accompany  this  report  is  principally  made  up  of  Nicollet's  map 
below  Fort  Pierre,  and  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  above  that  point,  with  some  of  our  own  observa 
tions  added  to  them. 

Of  the  collections  made  by  the  party  on  the  Missouri  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Union,  those 
in  the  department  of  geology  were  directed  to  Dr.  Evans,  and  sent  to  St.  Louis,  and  those  in  the 
departments  of  natural  history  and  botany  to  Professor  Baird,  and  sent  to  Washington. 
I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 

Second  Lieutenant  of  Engineers. 

Gov.  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey. 


15.  REPORT  OF  LIEUTENANT  c.  GROVER,  u.  s.  A.,  OF  HIS  SURVEY  OF  THE  UPPER  MISSOURI,  FROM 

THE  GREAT  FALLS  TO  CONNECT  WITH  THE  SURVEY  OF  LIEUTENANT  DONELSON. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  as  results  of  my  survey  of  a  portion  of  the 
Missouri  river,  made  pursuant  to  your  directions,  in  the  latter  part  of  September  and  the  first  part 
of  October,  1853. 

The  Missouri,  from  the  Great  Falls  to  near  the  mouth  of  the  Muscle  Shell,  is  a  clear,  rapid 
stream,  of  no  great  depth,  and  with  a  gravel  bottom.  Its  general  width,  which  for  some  miles 
below  the  falls  is  about  two  hundred  yards,  gradually  increases  as  it  flows  on  receiving  its  tribu 
taries.  As  to  its  channel,  it  is  quite  variable,  and  its  course  is  checked  by  many  bars  of  gravel 
across  its  bed,  causing  rapids.  At  present  I  shall  notice  only  those  of  the  most  importance  as  limit 
ing  the  height  to  which  boats  can  ascend,  and  the  draught  to  which  they  must  be  confined  to  make 
the  ascent.  From  the  falls  a  succession  of  wild  and  impassable  rapids  extend  some  ten  miles 
down,  when  they  become  less  frequent,  to  the  mouth  of  the  High  Wood  creek,  a  small  tributary 
which  empties  itself  into  the  river  on  the  right-hand  side,  and  about  fifteen  miles  below  the  falls. 

Immediately  below  the  mouth  of  this  tributary  the  river  assumes  the  character  which  it  retains 
as  long  as  it  flows  over  a  gravelly  bottom.  The  next  rapid  of  importance  is  one  that  becomes  so 
from  the  shallowness  of  the  water,  there  being  only  fifteen  inches  on  the  bar.  This  rapid  is 


248  NAVIGABILITY    OP    THE    MISSOURI. 

about  five  miles  below  Fort  Benton.  Immediately  above  the  site  of  the  old  Fort  McKey  another 
rapid  occurs,  twenty  inches  water  on  the  bar;  and  one  opposite  Burnt  island,  about  twelve  miles 
below  Fort  Benton,  with  twenty-two  inches  on  the  bar.  There  is  no  other  obstacle  upon  either 
of  these  bars  than  want  of  water.  A  rapid  known  as  "Publieus,"  a  few  miles  below,  had 
twenty-three  inches  of  water  on  the  bar,  but  a  clear  channel.  Another  without  a  name,  a  few 
miles  below  this  again,  had  two  feet  on  the  bar,  but  this  season  had  several  large  rocks  near  the 
channel.  But  the  worst  point  in  the  whole  river,  with  the  exception1  perhaps  of  the  one  first  men 
tioned,  is  one  which  goes  by  the  name  of  "Dauphine's"  rapid,  about  sixteen  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  Dry  river.  Here  a  gravel  bar  extends  across  the  whole  river,  and  a  small  gravel  island 
near  the  middle  divides  the  stream  into  two  branches,  of  nearly  the  same  depth,  and  causes 
a  bend  in  the  channel  of  both ;  in  addition  to  this,  boulders  of  a  ton  weight  are  frequently 
found  in  and  near  the  channel.  The  depth  of  water  in  the  channel  was  twenty  inches; 
its  rate  did  not  exceed  four  and  a  half  miles  per  hour.  The  current  is  stronger  here  than 
at  any  other  point  on  the  river.  There  were  several  other  rapids  below  this,  but  of  no  con 
sequence  as  compared  to  it.  From  this  point,  which  is  about  sixty  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Muscle  Shell,  the  river-sand  begins  to  alternate  with  the  gravel  of  the  bottom,  and  the  rapids 
and  shallows  become  less  frequent  and  the  channel  better;  and,  as  we  approach  the  mouth  of 
the  Muscle  Shell,  the  river  begins  to  assume  the  characteristic  appearance  of  the  Missouri  in  every 
respect;  and  below  its  mouth  all  obstacles  to  navigation  for  small  boats  may  be  considered  at  an 
end.  Its  width  gradually  increases,  and  near  the  mouth  of  the  Milk  river  its  general  width  is 
about  four  hundred  yards. 

The  above  statements  refer  to  the  river  between  the  20th  and  30th  September.  Earlier  in  the 
season,  when  its  tributaries  are  supplied  from  the  melting  of  the  snows  in  the  mountains,  its 
depth  is  much  greater.  In  the  month  of  June  it  has  about  three  feet  more  water;  from  the  first 
of  August  to  the  middle  of  September  it  falls  very  gradually,  and  upon  the  first  of  September  the 
depth  is  about  one  foot  greater.  This  rise  and  fall  of  the  river  is  very  regular,  and  it  is  but  little 
affected  by  accidents  of  weather.  During  the  high  water  the  current  is  very  rapid  and  severe, 
and  the  small  rapids  are  lost  sight  of.  As  to  the  large  rocks  sometimes  found  in  the  channel, 
they  are  brought  from  high  up  the  river  by  the  ice  as  it  goes  out  when  the  river  breaks  up. 
During  the  winter  they  become  attached  to  the  under  surface  of  the  ice,  and  in  its  removal  they 
are  taken  along  till  they  are  rubbed  off  by  some  gravel  bar  or  fall  down  by  the  melting  of  the  ice; 
the  next  season,  if  on  a  bar  and  near  the  surface,  they  again  become  frozen  up  with  the  ice  and 
are  moved  farther  down.  Thus  they  are  constantly  working  their  way  down  the  river,  and  a  bar 
that  this  season  is  encumbered  by  them  may  be  free  the  next. 

Conclusions  with  regard  to  Navigation. 

From  the  above  statements  it  will  be  seen  that  the  only  obstructions  to  the  navigation  of  the 
river  by  steamboats  are  the  shallowness  of  the  water  and  the  large  boulders  in  the  channel.  But 
the  first  does  not  exist  as  an  obstruction  to  boats  drawing  twenty  inches,  before  the  middle  of 
September.  As  to  the  second  obstruction,  it  can,  I  think,  be  obviated  by  providing  a  boat  with 
suitable  grappling-hooks,  with  which  she  can  hitch  on  to  a  rock  in  her  way,  and  drop  down  with 
it  to  deeper  water,  with  but  very  little  detention.  A  boat  drawing  twenty  inches,  loaded,  can 
then,  I  think,  navigate  the  river  from  the  opening  of  the  season  till  the  first  of  September  with 
perfect  safety.  Earlier  in  the  season  it  is  quite  probable  that  boats  of  three  feet  draught  would 
find  no  difficulty  in  ascending,  but,  in  order  to  be  here  in  time,  they  would  have  to  winter  at  Fort 
Union.  This  fact,  therefore,  becomes  of  no  practical  advantage  at  present.  As  to  wood  for  the 
use  of  boats,  plenty  of  it  can  be  found  upon  the  banks. 

A  steamer  of  eighteen  inches  draught  could,  in  my  opinion,  ascend  the  river  at  any  time. 

C.  GROVE  R, 
Second  Lieutenant  Fourth  Artillery. 

Governor  1. 1.  STEVENS. 


NAVIGABILITY   OF   THE   MISSOURI.  249 

P.  S. — On  the  lower  portion  of  the  river,  as  above  referred  to,  there  are  many  quite  extensive 
oottoms  well  adapted  to  agricultural  purposes.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  arable  land,  also,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Fort  Benton  and  in  the  Sun  River  valley.  A  more  extensive  note  will  be  made  upon 
this,  under  the  head  of  Topography,  in  my  final  report. 

C.  G. 


10.  REPORT   OF   LIEUTENANT   n.   SAXTON,  u.  s.  A.,  OF  HIS   TRIP  IN  A  KEEL-BOAT  FROM  FORT 

BENTON     TO    FORT    LEAVENWORTH,    AND    OF     THE    NAVIGABILITY    OF    THE    MISSOURI    RIVER    BY 
STEAMERS. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  June  8,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report  of  my  journey  down  the  Missouri.  I  left 
Fort  Benton  on  the  22d  of  September,  1853,  for  St.  Louis.  My  party  consisted  of  Mr.  Culbert- 
son,  Indian  agent  among  the  Blackfeet;  Mr.  Graham;  Mr.  Hoyt;  Sergeant  Collins,  of  the  sapper 
and  miner  company;  a  detachment  of  seventeen  dragoons  from  company  I,  1st  dragoons,  and 
six  quartermaster's  employes. 

I  was  charged  with  the  duty  of  returning  the  soldiers  and  employes  of  the  Quartermaster's 
department  to  St.  Louis,  and  gathering  such  general  facts  as  I  could  with  regard  to  the  capability 
of  these  upper  waters  of  the  great  Missouri  for  steamboat  navigation. 

I  started  at  the  driest  season  of  the  year,  when  the  Missouri  was  uncommonly  low,  and  had, 
therefore,  an  opportunity  of  observing  the  river  in  its  most  unfavorable  state.  During  a  great 
portion  of  the  year,  the  rains  and  melting  snow  in  the  mountains  swell  the  volume  of  water  to 
many  times  its  size  at  the  low  stages,  making  the  passage  of  boats  much  easier. 

I  embarked  upon  a  keel-boat  obtained  from  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  built  by  them  of 
timber  brought  from  the  Rocky  mountains.  It  was  eighty  fret  long  by  fourteen  wide,  had  twelve 
oars,  and  drew,  when  loaded,  eighteen  inches  of  water.  We  called  it  the  "Blackfoot,"  from  the 
fact  of  its  being  probably  the  first  boat  ever  constructed  in  that  wild  region.  The  fact  that  a 
journey  of  more  than  2,000  miles  was  made  in  so  unwieldy  a  craft,  indifferently  manned,  after 
the  ISth  of  September,  is  in  itself  an  evidence  in  favor  of  the  supposition  that  steamboats  can 
operate  with  advantage. 

For  the  first  two  days  of  my  journey  the  water  of  the  river  was  comparatively  clear,  with  a 
gravel  bottom;  the  channel  crooked,  the  current  varying  in  swiftness  between  one-half  and  four 
miles  per  hour.  In  no  case  did  I  find  less  than  fifteen  inches  of  water  upon  the  bars,  and  so 
shallow  a  run  as  this  in  but  one  or  two  localities. 

Owing  to  the  peculiar  nature  of  the  bottom — it  being  a  mixture  in  many  places  of  quicksand 
and  fine  gravel — it  would  give  way  very  readily  to  the  action  of  the  paddle-wheels,  and  admit  of 
the  passage  of  a  boat  drawing  a  greater  amount  of  water  than  is  actually  found  upon  the  bars. 

The  regimen  of  the  river  above  the  mouth  of  Muscle  Shell  is  fixed.  The  banks  change  very 
little,  and  there  is  very  little  timber.  Should  steamers  run  here  eventually,  there  will  be  a 
scarcity  of  fuel;  enough,  however,  can  be  collected  for  present  purposes. 

The  "Mauvaises  Terres"  lie  directly  above  the  Muscle  Shell;  through  these  the  channel  is 
very  good.  The  worst  bar  in  the  river  is  above  the  Bad  Lands,  a  few  miles  below  Fort  Benton, 
where  there  was  but  fifteen  inches  of  water. 

From  the  Muscle  Shell  downward  towards  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  the  river  changes. 

O 

The  water  gradually  becomes  muddy  from  the  washing  away  of  the  banks ;  the  channel  is  con 
stantly  shifting  its  position ;  the  forests  of  cotton-wood,  with  which  the  batiks  are  lined,  falling 
into  the  river,  causes  numerous  snags  and  sawyers.  Below  the  Yellowstone,  the  Missouri 
assumes  the  same  character  it  maintains  to  its  mouth.  It  becomes  thick  and  muddy  with  the 
alluvial  deposit  it  is  ceaselessly  bearing  onward  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  bed  of  the  river  is 
32/ 


250  NAVIGABILITY   OF   THE   MISSOURI. 

much  broader;  the  waters  separate  into  many  different  channels,  forming  numerous  sand- islands, 
sometimes  covered  with  forests  of  cotton-wood. 

This  subdivision  of  the  waters  forms  one  of  the  most  serious  obstacles  to  the  navigation  of  the 
river.  It  requires  great  care  and  experience  to  keep  in  the  main  channel,  for,  if  it  is  once  lost, 
one  becomes  involved  in  difficulty.  I  found  that  in  every  instance  there  was  always  a  main 
channel  containing  a  sufficient  depth  of  water.  I  arrived  at  Fort  Leavenvvorth  on  the  9th  of 
November,  having  sailed  a  distance  of  more  than  2,000  miles  since  the  22d  of  September.  I  was 
detained  about  one-third  of  the  time  by  the  high  winds  which  prevail  on  the  Missouri  in  the 
autumn,  and  prevented  from  travelling  at  night  by  the  numerous  snags  found  in  the  channel. 

The  difficulties  I  had  to  contend  with  in  my  journey  were  principally  high  winds,  snags,  sand 
bars,  and  a  crooked  channel.  A  wind  which  would  not  affect  a  steamer  sensibly,  would  render 
the  "Black foot"  completely  unmanageable;  and  from  the  little  power  I  had  in  comparison  to  the 
size  of  my  boat,  I  found  it  extremely  difficult  to  make  the  sharp  turns  in  the  channel. 

I  have  no  hesitation  in  expressing  an  opinion,  founded  upon  actual  observation  and  experience 
in  the  navigation  of  shallow  rivers  of  a  similar  character,  that  a  steamer  properly  constructed, 
drawing  two  feet  of  water,  can  at  all  seasons,  when  the  river  is  not  frozen,  ascend  as  far  as  Fort 
Union,  and  that  one  drawing  twenty  inches  can  go  up  beyond  Fort  JBenton. 

The  kind  of  steamer  best  adapted  to  the  service  is  a  matter  to  be  carefully  considered.  In 
many  places  the  river  is  so  much  obstructed  by  snags  as  hardly  to  leave  a  passage-way  for  a 
boat :  in  such  cases  the  stern-wheel  steamer  would  have  the  advantage;  but  in  crossing  bars  and 
making  short  turns,  which  is  so  often  necessary,  as  well  to  follow  the  channel  as  to  avoid  snags, 
side-wheels  would  be  much  preferable.  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  a  side-wheel  steamer,  built  as 
strong  and  narrow  as  possible  in  proportion  to  its  length,  and  drawing  twenty  inches  of  water, 
would  be  the  best  one  that  could  be  used. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  point  out  depots  for  wood  ;  the  voyager  has  but  to  land  anywhere  on  the 
river  and  plant  his  axe  into  the  fine  cotton-wood  forests  with  which  this  magnificent  stream  is 
lined.  The  supply  is  inexhaustible.  As  accurate  surveys  of  the  river  have  been  made  by 
Lieutenants  Grover  and  Donelson,  I  have  only  given,  in  this  brief  report  of  my  journey,  the 
results  of  my  own  observations  with  reference  to  the  navigation  at  a  low  stage  of  the  water.  I 
have  omitted,  also,  all  the  incidents  of  my  voyage,  which  were  interesting  and  varied.  We  had 
many  adventures  with  Indians  little  accustomed  to  meeting  with  their  white  brothers ;  and  the 
tediousness  of  the  otherwise  monotonous  voyage  was  relieved  by  many  an  exciting  chase  after 
the  buffalo  and  other  wild  animals  with  which  this  country  abounds. 

I  am  confident  that  enough  has  been  presented  to  prove  that  this  great  river  can  be  navigated 
by  steamboats  for  a  distance  far  exceeding  that  of  any  other,  and  that  their  whistle  will  soon  be 
heralding  the  advance  of  civilization  into  the  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  nation. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

R.  SAXTON, 

Lieutenant  Fourth  Artillery. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Washington,  D.  C. 


FROM    THE    COLUMBIA   VALLEY  TO    FORT   OWEN.  251 

F. 

SURVEYS  FROM  THE  EASTERN  BASE  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  THE  LOWER 

COLUMBIA. 

17.  REPORT  OF  THE  ROUTE  OF  LIEUTENANT  R.  SAXTON,  u.  s.  A.,  FROM  THE  COLUMBIA  VALLEY  TO 

FORT  OWEN,  AND  THENCE  TO  FORT  BENTON. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  February,  1854. 

SIR  :  In  obedience  to  your  instructions  of  April,  1853,  appointing  me  acting  assistant  quarter 
master  and  commissary  for  the  expedition  under  your  command,  for  the  exploration  and  survey 
of  a  route  for  a  railroad  from  some  point  on  the  Mississippi  river  to  Puget  sound,  and  directing 
me  to  proceed  by  the  way  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  to  Columbia  barracks,  in  Washington  Ter 
ritory,  and  there  organize  a  supply  train,  and  establish  a  depot  of  provisions  at  the  Flathead 
Indian  village  of  St.  Mary's,  and  join  you  at  Fort  Benton,  proceeding  thither  by  the  Blackfoot 
Pass  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report  of  my  operations 
in  the  performance  of  that  duty. 

As  incidental  to  the  establishment  of  a  depot  of  provisions  for  the  use  of  the  main  parties 
engaged  in  the  exploration,  I  was  directed  to  make  such  observations  with  reference  to  the 
topography  of  the  country  through  which  I  should  pass,  and  the  facilities  or  difficulties  it  pre 
sented  to  the  construction  of  a  railroad,  as  would  not  interfere  with  the  main  object  of  my 
expedition. 

The  distances  stated  in  the  report  are  only  approximations  inferred  from  the  pace  of  a  horse, 
and  the  directions  were  determined  by  the  bearings  of  a  pocket  compass.  They  will,  however, 
I  trust,  give  a  tolerable,  if  imperfect,  idea  of  the  country  through  which  I  passed. 

I  left  New  York  on  the  5th  of  May,  and  proceeded,  by  the  way  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  to 
San  Francisco,  California,  where  I  arrived  on  the  1st  of  June.  It  being  necessary  to  procure 
most  of  the  articles  required  for  the  use  of  the  expedition  at  this  place,  my  arrival  in  Washington 
Territory  was  delayed  until  June  27th.  The  abundance  of  gold  in  California,  and  the  conse 
quent  high  price  of  labor,  made  it  very  difficult  to  procure  men  for  the  expedition,  even  at  the 
highest  rates.  But  for  the  assistance  afforded  by  the  agents -of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  I 
should  have  been  unable  to  organize  a  party  at  all.  I  applied  to  Governor  P.  Ogden,  the  chief 
faclor  of  the  company,  for  aid,  which  he  very  readily  granted.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  however 
little  flattering  to  American  pride,  that  the  power  and  influence  of  that  company  over  the  inhab 
itants  of  the  country  which  I  traversed  is  greater  than  that  of  the  government  of  the  United 
States.  Even  the  Quartermaster's  department  is  obliged  to  depend  upon  them  for  the  transport 
ation  of  troops  and  army  supplies. 

On  the  2d  of  July,  Lieutenant  Arnold,  3d  artillery,  who  had  volunteered  for  the  expedition, 
started  up  the  Columbia  river  with  the  greater  part  of  the  stores  destined  for  the  Flathead  village, 
and  twenty-one  men  employed  as  packers.  In  consequence  of  high  water  in  the  river,  the 
passage  of  the  Cascades  was  exceedingly  difficult,  and  it  was  necessary  to  transport  all  our 
baggage  for  a  considerable  distance  on  the  backs  of  men.  Lieutenant  Arnold,  with  character 
istic  energy,  succeeded,  after  a  week's  hard  labor,  in  landing  his  stores  at  the  Dalles  of  the  Colum 
bia.  I  completed  all  the  arrangements  for  the  expedition,  and  with  the  soldiers  detailed  as  an  escort, 
and  the  remaining  commissary  stores,  arrived  at  the  Dalles  on  the  14th  of  July.  As  all  the 
animals  in  the  possession  of  the  Quartermaster's  department  at  Fort  Vancouver  were  required  by 
Captain  McClellan's  parly,  we  were  obliged  to  depend,  in  a  great  measure,  upon  the  Indians  for 
our  horses.  Reports  were  in  circulation  that  we  were  fitting  out  a  war  party  against  them,  and 
they  showed  great  unwillingness  to  bring  in  horses.  Every  aid  in  their  power  was  promptly 
rendered  by  the  officers  at  Fort  Vancouver,  and  the  Dalles,  to  forward  the  interests  of  the 
expedition. 


252  FROM  THE  COLUMBIA  VALLEY  TO  FORT  OWEN. 

Extracts  irom  my  journal  kept  on  the  route  will  give  you  the  most  complete  information  con 
cerning  my  operations  from  that  point. 

Monday,  July  18,  1853. — We  have  completed  all  our  arrangements,  and  started  for  the  Rocky 
mountains  at  four  o'clock  p.  in.  Our  animals  being  wild,  and  unused  to  carrying  packs,  we  had 
great  difficulty  in  getting  under  way,  and  only  marched  five  miles,  with  the  loss  of  several  pack?. 
The  party  i<now  composed  of  Lieutenant  Arnold,  3d  artillery,  Lieutenant  Macfeely,  4th  infantry, 
Mr.  D.  L.  Arnold,  an  escort  of  eighteen  soldiers,  Mr.  D.  S.  Hoyt,  one  packmuster,  one  as.-istant 
packmaster,  twenty-three  packers,  three  herders,  two  cooks,  and  one  guide.  As  it  is  rumored 
that  the  Indians  on  some  parts  of  the  route  are  hostile,  in  order  to  guard  against  surprise,  the 
party  march  in  the  following  order,  which  is  to  be  observed  throughout  the  journey :  1,  guide ;  2, 
Lieutenant  Macfeely,  with  one-half  the  soldiers;  3,  the  pack  train,  each  packer  having  charge  of 
five  animals,  that  being  the  greatest  number  which  one  man  can  manage  in  the  wild  mountain 
region  through  which  we  are  to  pass  ;  4,  the  remainder  of  the  escort  of  soldiers  in  charge  of  the 
sergeant.  We  are  encamped  on  a  small  creek,  five  miles  from  the  Dalles,  in  good  grass.  From 
this  point  nearly  to  Wallah-Wallah  we  shall  follow  the  emigrant  trail,  so  that  a  particular 
description  of  the  country  will  be  unnecessary. 

Tuesday,  July  19. — Commenced  at  daylight  preparations  for  marching;  but  our  animals  con 
tinued  to  rebel  against  their  unwonted  burdens,  so  that  it  was  late  before  we  got  under  way.  We 
encamped  at  Olney's  ranch,  six  miles  from  our  last  night's  camp. 

Wednesday,  July  20. — Marched  eight  miles,  to  Sand  Camp,  on  the  Columbia,  five  miles  from 
Camp  Olney.  We  came  to  the  Des  Chutes  river,  a  branch  of  the  Columbia  from  the  south,  a 
swift,  rocky  stream,  too  deep  to  be  forded,  and  abounding  with  fine  salmon  and  trout.  A  ferry  is 
kept  here  by  an  American,  and  supported  principally  by  the  emigrants.  It  was  late  before  all 
the  animals  and  baggage  were  got  across.  Our  camp  is  in  a  pleasant  spot,  with  abundance  of 
good  grass.  We  were  much  annoyed  by  sand,  the  wind  drifting  clouds  of  it  over  our  tents  and 
beds.  We  purchased  abundance  of  salmon  from  the  Indians. 

Thursday,  July  21. — We  are  encamped,  this  evening,  on  a  rocky  creek,  a  small  branch  of  John 
Day's  river,  a  tributary  of  the  Columbia.  Our  route  had  been  along  the  Columbia,  some  eight 
or  ten  miles  distant.  Some  elevations  of  a  thousand  feet  above  the  river  were  passed.  We 
were  all  day  in  sight  of  Mount  Adams  and  Mount  Hood,  whose  snow-capped  summits  rise  into 
the  region  of  perpetual  frost,  fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the  ocean  level.  These  mountains  pre 
sent  a  grand  and  sublime  appearance,  and  are  peculiar  objects  of  Indian  superstition  and  tradi 
tion,  the  special  abodes  of  the  "Great  Spirit"  and  of  genii  of  various  names  and  functions. 

We  have  had  an  uncomfortable  march  across  a  heath  entirely  destitute  of  water  and  trees. 
The  thermometer  ranged  as  high  as  106°  in  the  shade.  Our  animals  were  much  broken  down, 
and  when  they  reached  the  camp,  parched  with  thirst,  they  plunged  into  the  deep  cool  water  of 
the  river,  and  thus  many  articles  of  provisions  were  more  or  less  injured.  I  found  additional 
difficulty  to-day  from  the  indifferent  pack-saddles  procured  at  San  Francisco,  the  materials  of 
which  are  very  weak,  and  ill  put  together,  so  that  they  injure  the  backs  of  the  animals.  Far  as 
we  are  from  the  means  of  procuring  or  constructing  others,  this  is  a  serious  inconvenience. 

Just  before  reaching  camp,  we  had  the  misfortune  to  break  down  our  only  wagon,  containing 
many  articles  of  value,  which  we  were  obliged  to  leave  behind  for  the  benefit  of  future  wanderers 
upon  this  trail.  A  fine  ox,  which  I  had  brought  along  for  food,  died  from  the  effects  of  heat. 

Friday,  July  22. — We  have  made  but  a  short  march  of  seven  miles,  in  consequence  of  the 
casualties  of  yesterday.  We  obtained  a  wagon  and  pack-saddle  from  an  emigrant.  All  hands 
are  engaged  in  jerking  the  beef  of  one  of  our  oxen,  which,  owing  to  the  great  heat  of  yesterday, 
was  unable  to  go  farther.  The  result  of  the  process  is  doubtful  with  the  thermometer  at  105°, 
but  we  cannot  afford  to  lose  any  of  our  provisions  without  an  attempt  to  save  them.  We  are 
encamped  on  the  same  creek;  the  grass  is  good,  the  water  pure  and  cold,  needing  no  addition 
of  ice. 


FROM   THE   COLUMBIA   VALLEY  TO   FORT   OWEN.  253 

Saturday,  July  23. — Raised  camp  at  3  o'clock,  and  were  in  march  by  7  a.  m.,  and  advanced 
twenty-five  miles  to  Willow  creek,  a  small  stream  among  the  willows.  The  day  has  been 
intensely  hot;  our  course  was  nearly  parallel  with  the  Columbia,  about  seven  miles  distant.  We 
met  many  emigrants  from  Ohio  and  Illinois  bound  for  California,  Oregon,  and  Washington;  they 
appeared  wearied  and  wayworn,  and  were  comforted  by  our  assurance  that  the  Pacific  would 
soon  put  a  period  to  their  westward  land-wandering.  They  wished  us  a  good  speed  in  our 
enterprise  as  only  those  hardy  pioneers  can  who  have  walked  over  the  route  from  Missouri  to  the 
Pacific  States. 

Sunday,  July  24. — Thermometer  at  sunrise  61°;  barometer  29.774.  Marched  thirty-five  miles 
over  a  heath  without  trees  or  water  to  Butter  creek.  Day  intensely  hot,  and  some  of  our  animals 
gave  out.  Butter  creek  is  a  fine  cold  stream,  winding  through  a  meadow  covered  with  the  most 
luxuriant  grass.  These  beautiful  streams  are  the  redeeming  features  of  this  otherwise  sterile 
region.  I  do  not  know  why  this  is  called  Butter  creek;  but  when  its  beautiful  and  fertile  banks 
become  the  pasturage  of  herds  of  cattle,  with  an  industrious  population,  its  destiny  will  be 
accomplished,  and  the  appropriateness  of  its  name  justified. 

Monday,  July  25. — Thermometer  53°;  barometer  29.544.  All  hands  roused  at  3  a.  m.,  but 
our  animals  not  having  been  picketed,  had  strayed,  and  much  time  and  labor  were  spent  in  col 
lecting  them.  The  loss  of  animals  by  stampedes,  and  straying,  is  one  of  the  most  annoying  inci 
dents  of  travel  in  this  region. 

In  consequence  of  the  great  heat  we  advanced  but  fifteen  miles,  and  encamped  in  a  pleasant 
spot  on  the  banks  of  the  Umatilla  river. 

Near  our  camp  we  were  met  by  a  delegation  of  Cayuse  braves,  sent  by  the  chief  of  the  Nez 
Perces,  to  ascertain  our  object  in  passing  through  their  country.  They  had  been  told  that  we 
were  coming  to  make  war  upon  them,  and  take  away  their  horses.  We  assured  them  that  such 
was  not  our  object;  that  we  had  been  sent  by  the  great  Chief  of  us  all,  at  Washington,  on  a 
mission  of  peace  to  all  the  Indian  tribes  on  both  sides  of  the  mountains,  and  asked  them  to  invite 
their  chief  to  come  to  our  camp,  and  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace  with  us.  In  the  evening  the  old 
chief  came  and  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace  with  us,  promised  to  be  always  friendly,  and  said  that 
he  was  glad  that  our  "hearts  were  good."  The  Nez  Perces  are  a  rich  and  powerful  tribe,  and 
own  a  great  many  horses.  They  cross  the  mountains  yearly  to  hunt  buffalo  on  the  plains  of  the 
Missouri.  They  have  a  much  shorter  route  to  St.  Mary's  village,  but  it  is  too  mountainous  for  us 
to  take.  The  Bitter  Root  range  of  mountains  between  this  and  St.  Mary's  presents  too  great 
obstacles  to  the  construction  of  a  railroad.  It  is,  therefore,  necessary  for  us  to  go  to  the  north 
ward  by  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Kalispel.  At  this  place  we  leave  the  emigrant  trail,  where 
it  turns  off  towards  the  South  Pass. 

Tuesday,  July  2G. — Thermometer  at  sunrise,  62° ;  barometer,  29.684.  Started  at  2  a.  m.,  on 
account  of  the  indications  of  an  extremely  hot  day  before  us;  marched  twenty  miles,  and 
encamped  on  the  Columbia,  within  ten  miles  of  Wallah-Wallah.  It  has  been  the  hottest  day  of 
the  season;  men  and  animals  suffered  severely.  Twelve  miles  of  our  route  was  over  burning 
sands,  destitute  of  vegetation;  the  animals  sunk  deeply  into  it  at  every  step;  its  temperature  was 
found  to  be,  in  several  places,  150°;  one  of  the  mules  gave  out,  and  a  poor  tired  horse  tumbled 
over  a  precipice ;  his  pack  being  of  heavier  material  than  his  body,  followed  the  law  of  gravita 
tion,  and  came  first  to  the  ground,  leaving  the  animal  with  his  feet  sticking  in  the  air.  He  was 
assisted  to  regain  his  proper  position,  and  quietly  proceeded  on  his  journey,  his  looks  manifestly 
indicating  his  resignation  to  any  fate  that  might  befall  him. 

The  pioneer  who  explores  this  interesting  region  must  be  prepared  for  all  sorts  of  discourage 
ment.  Its  vast  desert  wastes,  dense  forests,  snow-capped  mountains,  and  deep  ravines,  are 
obstacles  which  will  call  for  all  his  energies  and  the  exercise  of  his  whole  stock  of  philosophy. 
Here  he  will  find  himself  surrounded  by  the  grandest  tokens  of  those  mighty  convulsions  of  nature 
which  heaved  up  to  the  skies  the  ancient  ocean  beds. 


254  FROM   THE   COLUMBIA  VALLEY  TO   PORT   OWEN. 

I  noticed  to-day  a  very  remarkable  landmark,  a  vast  column  of  basaltic  trap,  in  form  of  a 
truncated  cone,  so  regular  in  shape  that  it  would  almost  seem  to  have  been  cut  out  by  the  hand 
of  man,  instead  of  being  a  singular  specimen  of  nature's  handiwork. 

There  is  a  beautiful  island  in  the  river  near  our  camp  covered  with  luxuriant  grass,  on  which  a 
large  number  of  horses  belonging  to  the  Nez  Perces  are  now  feeding.  They  are  driven  here  to 
pasture  and  fatten  for  the  annual  trip  across  the  mountains. 

Wednesday ,  July  27. — Thermometer  at  7  a.  m.,  79°  ;  barometer,  30.  Arrived  at  Wallah-Wallah, 
and  encamped  two  miles  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  fort.  We  were  hospitably  received 
by  Mr.  Pambrun,  the  factor  in  charge  of  the  fort.  We  shall  be  obliged  to  remain  here  a  short 
time  to  recruit  our  animals,  as  many  of  them  are  very  much  broken  down  and  galled  by  the 
pack-saddles. 

Mr.  Hoyt's  horse  was  drowned  in  attempting  to  cross  a  creek,  and  another  this  morning.  The 
teamster,  whom  I  had  sent  to  this  place  from  the  Indian  agency  by  a  better  road  with  our  only 
wagon,  came  in  and  reported  it  broken  down  a  few  miles  from  this  place.  This  is  unpleasant 
news,  as  our  means  of  transportation  are  very  limited.  We  received  several  visits  from  the 
Wallah- Wallah  chiefs  and  braves,  who  expressed  a  great  deal  of  friendship  for  us,  and  seemed 
delighted  to  find  that  the  reports  of  our  hostile  intentions  \vere  false.  They  are  deadly  enemies 
of  the  Blackfeet,  and  ready  to  join  us  in  any  expedition  against  them.  We  told  them  that  war 
was  not  the  object  of  our  journey;  that  we  came  to  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace  with  all  the  tribes. 

They  said  they  would  ''tell  my  news"  to  the  chief,  and  that  he  would  visit  us  to-morrow. 

I  employed  an  old  voyageur  of  the  name  of  Antoine  Plaute  to  guide  us  to  Fort  Benton.  He 
is  a  quarter  breed — French  and  Indian.  His  life  has  been  spent  in  the  mountains,  trapping 
beaver  for  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  once  in  his  youth  he  crossed  the  mountains  with  the 
Kalispelm  Indians  to  hunt  on  the  plains  of  the  Missouri.  He  has  Blackfbot  blood  in  his  veins, 
yet  bears  a  mortal  enmity  to  the  whole  race,  as  they  once,  many  years  ago,  were  near  taking  his 
scalp.  He  is  a  rich  Indian,  above  want,  and  I  doubt  if  money  would  induce  him  to  take  the 
field.  But  when  told  that  he  was  wanted  to  guide  our  party  into  the  heart  of  his  old  enemies' 
country,  faithful  to  his  Indian  instincts,  his  eye  brightened,  and  he  was  ready  to  mount  his  horse. 

Friday,  July  29. — All  hands  busily  engaged  in  jerking  meat  and  preparing  pack-saddles.  The 
prospects  of  the  expedition  are  anything  but  cheerful.  The  chief  packer  is  sick,  and  obliged  to 
leave  the  party;  his  assistant  and  several  men  are  getting  sick  and  dissatisfied  with  their  hard 
work,  and  the  prospect  before  them  of  boundless  forests,  and  Indians  whose  dispositions  are 
uncertain.  The  principal  chief  of  the  Wallah- Wallahs  visited  us  to-day.  He  owns  a  thousand 
horses,  and  ranks  high  among  the  tribes  of  this  region.  He  boasted  of  his  friendship  for  the 
whites,  and  that  none  of  his  tribe  had  ever  killed  a  white  man. 

The  loss  of  our  men  is  more  disastrous  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  finding  others  to  supply 
their  places. 

Saturday,  July  30. — We  left  Wallah-Wallah  very  early  this  morning,  and  marched  in  a  north 
easterly  direction  twenty-five  miles,  and  encamped  in  a  very  fine  meadow  on  the  banks  of  the 
Wallah- Wallah.  The  timber  and  grass  are  excellent,  and  the  country  around  is  beautiful.  The 
chief,  Pu-pu-mux-mux,  sent  a  runner  from  his  camp,  forty-five  miles  distant,  to  inquire  where  we 
should  cross  the  Lewis  fork  of  the  Columbia.  I  pointed  out  to  him  the  place,  arid  sent  word  by 
him  to  the  chief  to  meet  us  there  with  men  and  canoes,  to  transport  us  across  the  river.  The 
country  through  which  we  passed  is  a  rolling  prairie,  without  trees  or  water. 

Sunday,  July  31. — Thermometer  at  sunrise,  51°;  barometer,  29.498.  Left  camp  at  an  early 
hour,  and  after  marching  five  miles,  halted  until  evening.  A  prairie,  forty-five  miles  in  extent,  is 
before  us,  entirely  destitute  of  trees  and  water,  and  the  heat  is  so  great  that  it  would  be  exceed 
ingly  hazardous  to  attempt  to  cross  it  before  nightfall.  We  receive  many  visits  from  Indians; 
among  them  was  an  old  Nez  Perces,  mounted  on  a  fine  horse,  which  he  wished  to  exchange  for 


FROM   THE   COLUMBIA   VALLEY  TO   FORT   OWEN.  255 

an  American  one.     We  gave  them  a  few  presents,  and  I  believe  they  left  our  camp  very  well 
satisfied  with  themselves  and  us. 

Monday,  August  1. — Thermometer  at  sunrise,  65°.5;  barometer,  29.697.  Arrived  at  Camp 
Peluse,  at  the  junction  of  the  Peluse  and  Snake  rivers,  at  5  a.  m.,  after  a  night  march  of  forty-five 
miles.  The  men  and  animals  were  much  exhausted,  and  glad  to  rest  their  wearied  limbs  any 
where.  Near  the  end  of  the  march  it  was  necessary  to  force  some  of  the  party  along,  fatigue 
and  exposure  to  the  night  air  having  induced  sickness.  The  march  of  last  night  could  not  have 
been  made  in  the  daytime  at  this  season  of  the  year.  Great  loss  was  sustained  from  the 
stampeding  of  the  animals,  the  night  being  so  dark  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  recover  all  the 
lost  packages. 

Soon  after  our  arrival,  we  were  visited  by  a  delegation  of  fifty  Peluse  and  Nez  Perces  warriors, 
who  came  in  full  costume,  and  with  great  formality,  to  hold  a  grand  "war  talk."  They  seated 
themselves  in  a  circle,  the  head  chief  in  the  centre,  and  the  braves  and  warriors,  according  to 
rank,  on  either  side ;  a  few  paces  in  the  rear  of  the  circle  stood  six  Indians,  dressed  in  very 
fantastic  style,  whom  I  supposed  to  be  medicine  men. 

After  completing  their  arrangements,  they  sent  me  word  that  they  wished  "to  talk."  I  replied 
that  we  were  all  then  too  much  tired,  but  that  afler  we  had  eaten  and  slept  we  should  be  in 
a  better  condition  to  hold  a  council.  They  waited  patiently  till  we  were  ready,  then,  after  shak 
ing  hands  all  round,  the  chief  lighted  his  medicine  pipe,  and,  smoking  a  few  whiffs  himself, 
passed  it  to  each  member  of  the  council,  in  the  direction  of  the  sun.  The  medicine  pipe  is  a 
sacred  pledge  of  friendship  among  all  the  northwestern  tribes.  After  this  ceremony,  the  chief 
inquired  what  was  our  object  in  passing  through  his  country,  with  so  many  animals  and  such 
a  quantity  of  merchandise.  In  reply,  I  informed  him  that  I  had  been  sent  by  my  great  chief 
through  their  country  to  visit  the  Blackfeet  lodges  across  the  Rocky  mountains;  that  I  was  going 
thither  ;  that  I  expected  to  meet  there  the  chief  of  all  the  country  between  the  mountains  and  the 
Pacific  ocean,  and  that  I  wanted  them  to  be  ready  with  their  men  and  canoes  to  help  us  in  cross 
ing  the  river,  to  bring  in  all  our  horses  that  had  strayed,  and  to  be  in  readiness,  when  Gov.  Stevens 
should  arrive,  to  give  him  any  aid  he  would  require.  I  told  them  that  my  great  chief  at  Wash 
ington  was  their  friend,  and  would  protect  them;  he  had  sent  them  presents  in  token  of  his 
regard  ;  and  in  addition  to  these,  they  would  be  well  paid  for  any  services  they  rendered  us. 

A  fine  young  Indian  who  was  present  made  an  eloquent  speech  to  the  others.  He  told  them 
that  long  ago  his  father  was  chief  of  the  tribe,  and  owned  all  this  country.  They  were  then  far 
more  numerous,  rich,  and  powerful,  than  now.  His  father  extended  the  hand  of  friendship  to  the 
first  white  man  who  was  seen  in  that  country,  and  they  must  follow  his  example. 

A  consultation  was  then  held  among  themselves,  and  when  it  was  finished  the  old  chief  informed 
me  that  my  "  talk  was  good,"  and  that,  at  any  hour  I  should  appoint,  his  men  and  canoes  would 
be  ready  to  take  our  baggage  across  the  river.  I  gave  them  a  few  presents  of  tobacco,  beads, 
&c.  A  specimen  of  our  skill  in  rapid  firing  with  Sharp's  and  Colt's  rifles  astonished  them  greatly, 
and  created  additional  respect  for  our  prowess — a  favorable  impression  for  a  small  party  like 
ours,  surrounded  by  bands  of  Indians.  I  told  them  that  we  should  be  ready  to  cross  the  river 
to-morrow  at  sunrise. 

Thursday,  August  2. — As  our  guide,  Antoine,  gave  the  war-whoop  at  daylight,  fourteen  canoes, 
manned  by  as  many  stout  Indians,  left  the  opposite  shore  and  came  across  for  our  baggage.  By 
10  o'clock  they  had  transported  all  our  men  and  baggage  across  this  swift  and  rocky  stream, 
without  injuring  an  article.  Two  horses  were  drowned  in  swimming.  I  then  distributed  the 
presents  sent  by  the  Indian  department,  with  which  they  were  much  pleased.  The  old  chief  said 
they  were  "  hyas  iton" — very  good — but  some  wanted  more;  and  soon  after  our  arrival  at  camp, 
fifteen  miles  distant,  a  party  of  seven  warriors  carne  in  and  reported  that,  in  the  distribution  of  the 
blankets,  so  many  had  to  be  given  to  the  owners  of  the  canoes  that  nothing  was  left  for  the  chief. 
This  system  of  begging,  however,  did  not  succeed,  and  the  Peluse  chief  went  away  disappointed 


256  FROM   THE   COLUMBIA   VALLEY   TO   FORT   OWEN. 

in  his  plan  of  financiering.    He,  however,  soon  brought  us  some  corn  and  potatoes,  and  promised 
that,  when  Governor  Stevens  should  arrive,  he  would  kill  a  fat  ox  for  us. 

I  found  all  the  grass  burned  on  this  side  of  the  Peluse  river. 

The  Indians  told  me  that  a  Spaniard  had  been  along  a  few  days  before,  and  told  them  that  a 
large  body  of  American  soldiers  were  coming  to  cut  them  off,  and  take  possession  of  their  homes. 
I  satisfied  them  that  our  mission  was  one  of  peace,  and  promised  if  they  would  show  me  the 
persons  who  had  endeavored  to  excite  them  to  take  arms  against  us,  1  would  hang  them  on  the 
first  tree. 

Wednesday,  August  3. — From  Camp  Peluse  to  Camp  Spokane,  twenty-eight  miles,  over  a 
better  country  than  I  have  traversed  since  leaving  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  I  noticed  a  great 
amount  of  carbonate  of  soda  in  locations  where,  in  wet  seasons,  there  had  evidently  been  pools 
of  water.  The  ground  in  many  places  was  perfectly  white  with  it,  and  covered  to  the  depth  of 
three-quarters  of  an  inch. 

Last  night  an  unfortunate  accident  occurred.  Our  only  mercurial  barometer  was  broken. 
Up  to  this  point  a  good  barometrical  profile  of  our  route  had  been  obtained.  Now  this  interesting 
and  important  part  of  the  reconnaissance  must  be  discontinued,  or  continued  under  great  dis 
advantages  with  the  aneroid,  which  will  give  only  approximate  results. 

Thursday,  August  4. — Thermometer  at  sunrise,  41°;  barometer  28.89.  Marched  twenty  miles 
to  the  north,  over  the  finest  grazing  country  I  have  yet  met  with  ;  well  watered,  but  destitute  of 
game  and  trees.  Rattlesnakes  are  so  numerous  as  to  render  it  dangerous  to  walk  about  in  the 
grass.  A  Spokane  Indian  brought  in  four  horses  which  he  said  had  strayed  from  our  last  night's 
encampment.  Some  of  the  party,  thinking  he  had  concealed  the  animals  and  brought  them  in 
in  order  to  claim  the  reward,  were  for  having  him  tied  up  and  whipped.  But  the  man  had 
an  honest-looking  eye;  I  believed  him  to  be  so,  and  paid  him  well  for  his  trouble.  Had  we 
punished  him  unjustly,  the  whole  Spokane  tribe  would  have  been  our  enemies,  instead  of  being, 
as  now,  our  fast  friends. 

The  first  forest  trees  I  have  seen  since  leaving  the  Dalles  are  in  sight  from  our  camp. 

Friday,  August  5. — Thermometer  at  sunrise,  40° ;  barometer  28.7.  We  marched  twenty-five 
miles  through  a  country  of  an  entirely  different  character  from  any  we  have  yet  seen  ;  a  dense 
forest  of  pine  and  fir  trees,  many  of  immense  size.  We  passed  many  beautiful  ponds  or  lakes, 
and  are  encamped  on  the  banks  of  a  pretty  sheet  of  clear  water  amid  pine  trees;  but  its  waters 
are  so  strongly  alkaline  as  to  make  them  unfit  for  use,  and  very  injurious  to  animals  that  drink 
of  them.  The  native  animals  will  not  taste  the  water;  but  American  horses  and  mules  will 
when  very  thirsty,  and  unless  speedily  relieved  by  the  administration  of  an  acid,  the  consequences 
are  disastrous.  There  is  a  spring  near  our  camp  strongly  sulphureous,  and  boiling  temperature 
fifty-one  degrees. 

Saturday,  August  6. — Thermometer  58°;  barometer  28.435.  Marched  in  an  eastwardly  direc 
tion  to  Spokane  river ;  the  rock  formation  is  granite.  Passed  a  beautiful  lake  on  the  left  of 
our  trail ;  crossed  a  branch  of  the  Spokane  about  three  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  latter. 
At  the  ford  where  we  crossed  was  an  Indian  village,  and  a  wheat  field  of  about  an  acre  just 
harvested,  which  showed  a  fine  crop. 

Arrived  on  the  banks  of  the  Spokane  at  12  m.  As  it  was  too  deep  to  be  forded,  I  hired  the 
Indians  to  take  us  across  in  their  canoes,  and  succeeded  in  getting  everything  safely  over  by  sun 
set.  The  Spokanes  are  a  noble  specimen  of  their  race,  and  are  as  yet  too  proud  to  beg.  Their 
chief,  Garry,  speaks  tolerable  English,  having  been  educated  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
He  is  rich,  powerful,  and  owns  a  large  number  of  horses. 

The  Spokanes,  as  well  as  the  other  tribes  we  had  encountered,  had  been  told  that  we  were 
coming  to  make  war  upon  them.  They  were  delighted  to  find  us  friends,  and  came  in  great 
numbers  to  welcome  us.  About  thirty  mounted  warriors,  in  full  costume,  formed  upon  a  high 
hill  overlooking  our  camp,  and  sang  a  song  of  welcome.  It  was  just  at  sunset;  and  as  they 


OF   ATACAMA   AND   COQUIMBO.  257 

chase  to  the  nimble-footed  animal.  In  the  pursuit  fortune  led  him  along  the  southern  slope  of 
El  Bolaco,  and  there,  thoroughly  tired  down,  he  rested  on  one  of  the  loose  stones  half  way  to  its 
steep  summit,  expecting  no  greater  good  luck  than  a  return  of  the  dogs  to  lead  him  to  the 
captured  animal,  whoso  bounds  he  could  no  longer  keep  pace  with.  Possessing,  as  does  nearly 
every  resident  of  mineral  regions,  some  knowledge  of  metallurgy,  it  was  not  long  before  he 
detected  that  his  seat  contained  ore  of  the  purest  silver,  in  great  quantities ;  and  in  the  excite 
ment  of  joyful  surprise,  guanaco,  dogs,  and  donkeys  too,  would  have  been  forgotten,  but  that 
the  last  afforded  means  to  transport  his  treasures  to  Copiapo.  The  other  story  is,  that  Godoi 
was  a  goat-herd,  and  received  intelligence  of  the  existence  of  silver  at  this  spot  from  his  expir 
ing  mother. 

Arrived  with  his  specimens  at  the  then  straggling  town,  the  discovery  was  imparted  to  Juan  . 
Call ej as,  an  old  friend  and  cateador  (professional  mine-hunter),  who,  during  forty-odd  years  of 
privations,  whilst  examining  the  veins  and  strata  of  the  province,  had  collected  only  the  wealth 
of  experience.  When  the  formalities  of  denouncing  (entering  a  caveat  for)  the  mine  had  been 
completed,  a  title  to  one  third  of  it  was  given  to  the  friend  and  -counsellor  in  fee;  and  the  latter 
in  like  manner  surrendered  it  to  Don  Miguel  Gallo,  a  citizen  of  Copiapo,  and  one  of  the  muni 
ficent  patrons  for  whose  many  services  Callejas  owed  a  long  debt  of  gratitude.  The  heirs  of 
Senor  Gallo  are  among  the  well  known  millionnaires  of  Chile  ;  and  it  is  said  they  still  retain 
the  original  seat  of  Godoi  found  near  the  mouth  of  the  mine,  thence  called  La  Descubridora. 

When  the  little  fortune  which  Godoi  had  picked  from  the  surface  was  gone,  his  remaining 
two  thirds  interest  was  sold,  and  he  withdrew  from  the  cares  of  business  to  the  enjoyment  of  the 
pleasures  which  his  extensive  riches  would  command.  In  the  briefest  time  people  discovered  that 
Don  Juan  was  a  man  of  respectability,  assuredly  allied  to  many  persons  of  distinction  ;  facts 
which  memory  told  him  had  never  before  been  urged  by  the  housekeepers  who  had  bought  cargas 
from  the  poor  wood-hunter,  and  to  whom  they  now  rendered  homage.  Flattered,  however,  by 
their  recognition,  he  could  do  no  less  than  repay  frequent  and  seemingly  earnest  demonstra 
tions  of  regard,  and  prove  his  appreciation  of  the  extreme  anxiety  displayed  to  gratify  him. 
Thus,  balls  followed  dinners,  licentiousness  succeeded  balls,  breakfasts  came  after  the  night 
orgies,  and  gambling  filled  the  unappropriated  hours  of  the  day,  until  the  lamp  of  extrava 
gance,  for  want  of  the  precious  oil,  gave  symptoms  of  expiring.  Alas!  poor  Godoi,  thine  was 
not  the  wonderful  instrument  of  Alladin !  As  soon  as  the  crowd  perceived  this  state  of  things 
they  took  French  leave,  and  Don  Juan  awoke  one  morning  as  poor  as  he  was  a  few  months 
before,  and  bitterly  lamenting  how  unreal  are  dreams.  Unfortunate  hunter  !  ruined  by  a  guanaco 
chase! — for  not  even  a  mule  was  left  with  which  to  resume  the  livelihood  of  wood-seeking, 
and  drown  the  memory  of  hours  spent  in  gluttony  and  vice.  He  was  not  destined  to  starve, 
however.  When  his  poverty  was  made  known  to  Senor  Gallo,  a  share  in  the  mine  was  gener 
ously  given  to  him,  from  the  sale  of  which  $14,000  was  realized,  and  a  small  cliacra  purchased 
near  Coquimbo.  There  Godoi  shortly  afterwards  died,  leaving  a  bare  subsistence  for  his  family.* 

More  moderate  in  the  gratification  of  his  desires,,  old  Callejas  has  wholly  escaped  such  vicissi 
tude.  Satisfied  by  having  enriched  so  generous  a  patron,  a  life  of  exemplary  sobriety  enables 
him  to  enjoy  the  gifts  with  which  in  turn  he  has  been  recompensed.  The  residence  of  his  pre 
dilection  is  at  the  Descubridora,  which  he  loves  as  the  apple  of  his  eye.  His  favorite  rambles 
are  in  the  pique  del  agua  (water  shaft),  fronton  de  Castillo  (the  castle  wall),  el  fenomeno  (the 
phenomenon),  la  paloma  (the  pigeon)  ;  in  short,  among  all  those  labyrinths  of  its  dark  caverns, 
the  greater  part  of  whose  productive  labors  have  been  directed  by  himself.  To  him  "La  Des 
cubridora"  is  a  loved  and  beautiful  daughter,  spouse  to  an  idolizing  friend;  each  rich  new 
shaft  that  is  opened  is  an  additional  charm,  hailed  as  would  be  the  grandchild  brought  to  his 
arms.  Happy  old  man  !  to  whom  wilt  thou  impart  thy  philosophy  ? 

Numbers  of  "Cateadores"  were  attracted  to  the  vicinity  by  the  noise  of  this  discovery,  and 

*To  perpetuate  his  name  near  the  scene  of  a  discovery  which  has  since  given  so  many  millions  to  Chile,  the  little  town  which 
sprang  up  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  was  called  "Juan  Godoi." 

33 


258  A    VISIT    TO    THE   PROVINCES 

new  veins  have  been  found  from  time  to  time  in  different  parts  of  the  hill,  until  there  are  now 
118  mines  in  operation.  One  of  the  most  valuable  was  found  by  four  laboring  miners  quite  close  to 
the  Descubridora,  and  so  near  to  it  in  point  of  time  that  the  patent  for  it  is  said  to  have  been 
pushed  through  the  forms  of  office  on  the  day  before  the  issue  of  that  for  the  discovery  of  Godoi. 
It  was  called  El  Manto  de  los  Bolados,  from  the  extraordinary  number  of  nearly  pure  silver  stones 
extracted  from  one  hole  in  it  within  an  incredibly  short  time.  A  single  block  cut  out  with  chisels 
— for  it  could  not  be  drilled  and  blasted — weighed  more  than  3,300  pounds  ;  the  entire  mass  up 
wards  of  6,000  pounds,  yielding  above  $80,000.  The  value  of  the  stones  extracted  from  this 
locality,  exclusive  of  what  each  squandered  on  his  mistress,  is  known  to  have  been  not  less  than 
$700,000;  yet  though  the  same  four  men  also  found  the  rich  Bolaco,  not  one  of  them  has  left 
a  farthing  with  which  to  buy  bread  for  housefuls  of  half-starved  children.  And  the  like  may 
be  said  of  nearly  every  discoverer  of  silver  mines  in  Chile.  The  sudden  acquisition  of  wealth 
leads  to  extravagance  and  riotous  living  before  the  mine  is  fairly  in  progress  to  meet  consequent 
demands,  and  after  a  month  or  two  the  necessities  of  the  debauchee  can  only  be  met  by  its  sale. 
Thus,  few  mines  in  any  of  the  mineral  districts  remain  as  heirlooms  to  the  families  of  the  finders  ; 
and  not  one  among  all  that  have  been  found  in  El  Bolaco,  unless  of  those  denounced  within 
a  year  or  two.  "Tres  Puntas,"  a  district  more  recently  rescued  from  obscurity,  has  still  its 
original  proprietors  in  many  cases  ;  their  swarthy,  almost  Indian  complexion  and  rough  hands 
betraying,  in  circles  to  which  sudden  wealth  has  given  them  access,  their  humble  parentage  and 
previously  rough  lives,  as  does  also  the  stiffness  of  their  manner  and  language. 

The  entrances  to  most  of  the  mines  on  El  Bolaco  are  enclosed  by  railings,  within  which  the  ores 
are  deposited  as  they  are  brought  up.  On  one  or  more  sides  of  the  enclosure  are  the  residences 
for  the  administrador  (superintendent),  assayer,  if  there  be  one"  and  treasurer,  together  with 
apartments  for  one  or  more  of  the  proprietors  when  they  come  to  make  a  personal  overhaul. 
Many  of  these  houses,  as  at  "  El  Dclirio,"  "La  Descubridora,"  "  La  Candelaria,"  and  others,  are 
commodious  and  well  furnished,  notwithstanding  obstacles  to  obtaining  supplies ;  and  though  the 
tables  may  not  exhibit  the  profusion  of  fresh  vegetables  one  may  find  at  Santiago,  they  are 
abundantly  supplied  with  all  that  should  be  desired  by  a  reasonable  man,  even  in  the  midst  of 
vegetable  life. 

One  is  apt  to  believe  that  the  life  of  a  laboring  miner  is  one  of  great  hardship  and  privation, 
and  in  certain  respects  it  is  so.  Toil  beneath  the  surface  of  the  ground,  where  the  only  air  to  enter 
the  lungs  .s  saturated  with  the  smoke  of  gunpowder  and  burnt  tallow,  and  where  the  light  of  day 
can  never  penetrate,  is  doubtless  more  painful  than  it  the  same  muscles  und  nerves  were  simila;  ly 
exerted  under  the  blue  vault  of  heaven ;  but  beyond  these  discomforts,  the  miners  at  El  Bolaco  have 
neither  hardships  nor  privations  not  encountered  by  their  fellow- laborers  above  ground.  Xone 
work  more  than  eight  hours  per  day,  for  which  there  is  good  pay  and  abundant  food.  True,  if 
the  mine  is  in  "buen  bene/ido"  (producing  well),  night  brings  no  relaxation  from  toil ;  but  what 
matters  day  or  night  to  those  who  delve  in  the  very  bowels  of  the  earth?  Who  among  them 
can  say  when  comes  the  daylight  ?  They  are  of  two  classes  :  barreteros — those  who  break  out 
the  ore;  and  apires—  those  who  bring  it  to  the  surface,  or,  if  the  mine  have  one,  to  the  mouth 
of  a  vertical  shaft,  whence  it  is  lifted  by  a  windlass.  Within  the  past  year  or  two,  shafts  of  this 
kind  have  been  cut  to  nearly  all  the  old  mines,  the  proprietors  finding  ventilation  indispensable 
at  the  extremity  of  some  of  their  lodes,  even  did  they  disregard  the  labor  of  conveying  quanti 
ties  of  rubbish  so  far. 

On  an  average,  barreteros  receive  $25  and  apires  $12  per  month,  20  ounces  of  fresh  baked 
bread,  24  figs,  1G  ounces  of  boiled  beans,  and  G  ounces  of  wheat,  daily — an  amount  of  food  quite 
sufficient  to  maintain  two  men — their  families  being  thus  tacitly  acknowledged.  The  wheat  is 
either  boiled  with  the  beans,  or  is  made  into  mote,  by  scalding  in  lye,  to  remove  the  husks. 
They  are  generally  strong,  athletic  men.,  with  broader  shoulders,  deeper  chests,  and  more  mus 
cular  limbs  than  those  engaged  in  agricultural  life.  Yet,  while  they  all  seem  to  enjoy  the  very 
best  health,  one  is  rarely  known  to  live  more  than  fifty  years.  There  are  instances  of  miners 


OF   ATACAMA   AND   COQTJIMBO.  259 

seventy  years  of  age,  but  these  are  extremely  rare.  Apires  are  young  men  whose  powers  are 
scarcely  developed,  their  promotion  to  barreteros  depending  on  the  experience  obtained  and 
strength  acquired  by  practice.  Some  of  them  will  bring  on  their  shoulders,  from  depths  of  120 
yards,  hide  sacks  of  over-  or  stone  weighing  from  2">0  to  :-i7-">  /"mi ,!s  and  one  has  been  known 
to  bring  no  less  than  42.">  pounds  up  the  rugged  sha't  that  distance.  It  is  pain-'ul  to  witness 
one  of  these  half-nake:]  fellows  issue  from  the  mine  under  such  a  load.  With  features  distorted, 
eyes  starting,  perspiration  dripping  from  every  tensely-strained  muscle,  as  he  comes  staggering 
into  the  fresh  air,  a  shrill,  deep-drawn  breath  penetrates  to  your  very  marrow,  and  tells  more 
forciby  than  all  of  the  bodily  exertion.  But  as  you  turn  from  the  man  to  the  treasures  he 
throws  down  in  the  light  of  day,  he  will  have  dashed  the  trickling  drops  from  his  brow,  drank 
copiously  from  a  cask  of  water  near  by,  and  you  just  catch  a  glimpse  of  his  head  as  he  descends 
for  another  load,  very  probably  humming  a  stanza  from  some  ribald  song.  Besides  being  short 
lived,  it  has  also  been  remarked  that  they  have  fewer  children  than  their  countrymen  engaged 
in  other  pursuits — a  fact  not  traceable  to  infidelity  or  analogous  causes,  but  more  probably 
attributable  to  the  influence  of  impure  air  on  their  systems  and  fatigue  of  the  body  when  they 
come  out  from  the  mines  at  the  expiration  of  their  periods  of  labor.  When  taken  sick,  the 
worthless  or  indifferent  are  discharged  at  once,  the  faithful  laborer  only  being  retained  in  wages 
and  food  until  able  to  resume  work.  Physicians  or  surgeons  there  are  none,  and  the  only 
knowledge  of  the  healing  art  is  what  the  administradores  may  pick  up  by  experience,  and  is 
possessed  by  the  medicas  who  may  be  found  about  every  inhabited  place.  Should  the  vein 
they  are  working  exhibit  symptoms  of  failing,  which  their  experience  from  boyhood  soon 
enables  them  to  perceive,  many  of  them  quit  the  mine  at  the  end  of  their  month  for  a 
more  productive  one,  from  which  they  may  have  opportunities  to  steal  richer  stones.  These 
last  are  perquisites  entering  into  their  calculations  to  an  almost  incredible  extent,  since  it  is 
estimated  that  the  amount  of  cangalla  (stolen  metal)  is  at  least  from  three  to  four  per  cent,  of 
all  the  ore  broken  out.  Most  of  the  cangalleros  (buyers  of  stolen  metal)  reside  at  Juan  G-odoi 
and  Huasco ;  and  such  has  heretofore  been  the  integrity  observed  by  these  two  classes  in  their 
dealings  with  each  other,  as  well  as  the  pertinacious  refusal  of  miners  to  take  employment 
where  they  are  submitted  to  such  espionage  as  prevents  pilfering.,  that  it  has  been  found  indis 
pensable  to  wink  at  both  thieving  and  receiving.  The  cangalleros,  on  several  of  whom  it  is  easy 
to  place  one's  finger,  gather  wealth  rapidly  ;  the  barretero  or  apire  obtains  only  enough  to 
drown  his  compunctions  of  conscience  for  an  hour  or  two  at  most.  Of  course  none  but  the  very 
richest  stones  of  the  vein  are  stolen.  These  the  barretero  breaks  out,  and  the  apire  may  after 
wards  stop  and  assort,  before  the  administrador  sees  them. 

Of  1, 750  laborers  employed  in  this  district,  about  one  third  are  Argentines  ;  the  remainder 
Chilenos,  with  very  few  exceptions.  From  their  better  knowledge,  English  miners  always  find 
immediate  occupation,  at  high  wages,  and  some  few  have  found  their  way  here.  Whether 
mining  induces  a  disposition  to  gamble,  is  a  question  already  suggested,  and  cannot  properly 
be  answered  respecting  a  race  who  have  inherited  the  passion  so  strongly  as  nine  tenths  of  the 
Hispano- Americans  ;  though  when  we  hear  of  the  extravagant  sums  almost  daily  risked  by 
Copiapinos,  and  of  the  multitude  of  fines  imposed  on  their  humbler  imitators  at  the  mines,  who 
incur  the  misfortune  of  detection  in  the  same  offence,  it  is  reasonable  to  believe  that  the  occupation 
does  have  such  an  influence.  Whilst  the  wealthy  in  the  city  win  and  lose  their  thousands  of  ounces 
($85,000  in  one  Jcnoivn  case)  at  a  single  sitting,  and  the  guardians  of  the  law  intentionally  over 
look  it,  the  barretero  or  apire  is  instantly  arraigned  to  appease  its  violated  majesty.  The  Sub~ 
delegado  stated,  during  a  visit  made  to  me,  that  more  than  one  hundred  had  been  convicted  of 
gambling  in  the  preceding  month,  and  that  it  was  almost  the  only  crime  of  constant  occurrence 
among  the  4,500  people  of  all  classes  embraced  within  his  district.  At  the  same  time,  they  are 
so  obedient  to  the  law,  that  three  of  the  soldiers  who  form  the  police  had  arrested  twenty  per 
sons  in  one  group,  and  brought  them  before  him  unresistingly.  As  an  offset  to  this  vice,  they 
possess  the  most  disinterested  generosity,  and,  should  his  punishment  admit  such  substitute^ 


260  A    VISIT    TO    THE    PROVINCES 


surrender  the  entire  earnings  of  a  month,  or  even  a  greater  sum,  if  it  can  be  obtained  in 
advance,  to  secure  a  companion  from  prison. 

Under  the  orders  of  the  proprietor,  the  direction  of  the  work  is  confided  to  an  administrador, 
usually  a  man  of  experience  whc.se  salary  is  in  proportion  to  the  extent  and  productiveness  of 
the  mine,  and  ranges  from  $800  to  $3,000  per  annum.  Though  Jew,  if  any,  possess  the  least 
acquaintance  with  geology  or  theoretical  mineralogy,  they  are  men  of  great  observation  and 
practical  knowledge.  Should  the  mine  have  several  shareholders,  the  duty  of  supervision  and 
instruction  is  performed  by  each  proprietor  in  turn.  Besides  the  classes  of  operatives  named, 
there  are  blacksmiths,  water-carriers,  and  mayordomos  —  the  general  duty  of  the  last  being  to  see 
that  the  metal  be  not  abstracted  during  the  process  of  breaking  up.  Their  pay  is  from  $300  to 
$GOO  per  year. 

In  the  Annales  clcs  Mines,  Vol.  IX.  Prof.  Domeyko  gives  the  following  geological  description 
of  El  Bolaco  :  "The  whole  hill  of  Chanarcillo  is  composed  of  calcareous  rocks,  more  or  less  argil 
laceous,  compact,  or  earthy;  some  dolomitic,  others  containing  only  traces  of  magnesia.  Sand 
stone  is  not  seen,  nor  schist,  properly  so  called;  neither  are  there  conglomerates,  nor  rocks  of 
crystalline  structure.  The  entire  mountain  is  formed  in  regular  and  nearly  horizontal  strata, 
slightly  dipping  to  the  west  in  concordant  stratification.  The  aspect  of  the  formation  announces 
a  period  of  tranquillity  and  continuity  of  acting  causes. 

"The  argil  of  these  rocks  is  composed  of  two  distinct  parts,  of  which  one  is  white,  and  not  acted 
on  by  acids;  the  other  a  hydro-silicate  of  alumina  and  iron,  which  may  be  acted  on  —  the  silicate 
being  soluble  in  a  solution  of  potassium.  It  is  wholly  to  the  very  variable  proportions  of  this 
argil  that  are  due  the  different  aspects  of  the  rock  —  its  compactness  and  fracture  —  and  which, 
probably,  more  than  anything  else,  influences  the  richness  of  the  mines  traversing  it. 

"The  more  or  less  blue  color  of  the  rocks  is  not  due  to  bitumen,  but  to  a  silicate  of  the  pro 
toxide  of  iron,  which  they  contain..  When  boiled  with  muriatic  acid,  they  also  leave  a  white 
residuum. 

"  I  found  no  organic  remains  in  any  part  of  the  mountain  which  contained  metallic  veins, 
although,  as  I  have  said,  they  have  been  found  along  the  road  to  the  eastward,  and  near  to 
Molle,  as  well  as  along  the  northwest  road,  in  the  environs  of  Ingenio.  Nevertheless,  I  am 
assured  that  an  ammonite  was  found  in  a  rock  of  the  mine  Iteventon  Colorado  at  many  yards 
below  the  surface. 

"It  is  about  three  hundred  metres  in  a  vertical  line  from  the  summit  of  the  plateau  to  the 
bottom  of  the  lowest  worked  mine  on  this  mountain,  and  we  can  distinguish  three  parts  or 
stages  in  this  thickness  of  the  formation.  We  commence  with  the  uppermost. 

"  The  plateau  at  the  top  is  composed  of  a  stratum  whose  thickness  varies  with  the  inequality 
of  the  surface,  but  which  on  the  northeast  side  is  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  metres.  It  is 
composed  of  marly  dolomitic  rock,  containing  more  than  two  thirds  of  its  weight  of  argil  ;  its 
color  a  yellowish  gray,  and  its  fracture  a  plane  covered  with  dendrites.  The  whole  rock  is  found 
completely  fissured,  and  often  full  of  cavities  and  hollows  produced  by  the  fracturing.  The 
surfaces  of  the  fissures,  as  also  those  of  the  cavities,  are  covered  with  small  bright  crystals  of 
spathic  lime.  The  cavities  are  also  found  filled  with  angular  fragments  of  the  same  rock, 
each  fragment  covered  on  all  sides  with  the  same  crystalline  crust  perceptible  on  the  walls  of 
the  cavities.  On  the  eastern  slope  of  the  'same  plateau,  a  part  of  the  stratum  is  so  fractured 
that  it  resembles  a  succession  of  enormous  angular  blocks  of  the  same  rock,  whose  interstices 
are  often  filled  with  marly  matter  pulverulent  as  chalk,  and  mixed  with  small  stones  of  the 
same  stratum.  The  pulverulent  material  gave  the  following  analysis: 

Carbonate  of  lime      .............  0.335 

Carbonate  of  magnesia  ............  0.052 

Alumina  and  oxide  of  iron       ..........  0.101 

Silica  soluble  in  potassium       ..........  0.170 

Argil  not  acted  on     .............  0.270 

Water  and  logs     ..............  0,072=  1.000 


OF   AT  AC  AM  A    AND   COQUIMBO.  261 

C£  Considerable  masses  of  the  chloro-bromide  of  silver  are  found  in  the  crevices,  hollows,  and 
cavities  in  the  rock  of  this  stratum.  In  general,  the  external  aspect  of  the  rock,  its  innumera 
ble  crevices  and  dislocations,  its  cavities  filled  with  broken  pieces  of  the  same,  all  denote  that 
this  portion  of  the  hill  has  experienced  in  situ  reiterated  shocks  posterior  to  its  formation,  and 
independently  of  the  movement  upheaving  the  rest.  We  will  call  this  part  of  the  hill  the 
plateau  stratum ;  miners  are  in  the  habit  of  designating  the  lower  portions  of  the  same  forma 
tion  by  the  name  of  manto. 

"  Below  this  stratum  follow  others  of  divers  thicknesses,  composing  that  part  of  the  mountain 
called  by  the  miners  mesa-piedra  (literally  stone  table),  and  which  they  consider  entirely  sterile, 
because  the  greater  number  of  the  veins  traversing  it  become  poor  or  entirely  sterile.  The 
rocks  constituting  this  stage  differ  little  in  their  composition  from  those  above  ;  they  are  gene 
rally  more  argillaceous  and  compact ;  their  fractures  following  old  fissures,  so  that  it  is  difficult 
to  obtain  a  new  one.  Moreover,  the  surfaces  of  fractures  ordinarily  present  dendritic  designs, 
and  the  rock  exhales  a  strong  argillaceous  odor  when  breathed  upon. 

"A  sample  of  rock  from  this  mesa-piedra  taken  from  the  Valenciana,  gave  fifty-eight  per 
centum  of  argil  not  acted  on,  and  six  per  centum  of  similar  substance  affected  by  acids. 

"  The  strata  of  this  part  of  the  mountain  are  more  regular  than  those  above,  and  have  neither 
the  clefts  nor  the  cavities  mentioned  as  belonging  to  the  preceding.  The  entire  stratum  of  the 
mesa-piedra  is  about  one  hundred  metres  thick. 

"  About  one  hundred  and  thirty  metres  below  the  surface  of  the  plateau  begin  strata  called 
by  the  miners  mantos  pint  adores,  or  strata  that  enrich  veins.  The  most  common  rock  is  a 
calcareous  clay  containing  about  forty  per  centum  of  residuum  not  acted  on  by  acids  and  con 
taining  only  traces  of  magnesia.  Its  color  is  a  bluish-grey,  spotted  with  yellow ;  its  structure 
compact,  and  fracture  conchoidal,  splintering  in  some  parts.  In  general  it  much  resembles  the 
calcareous  rocks  most  widely  spread  in  the  muscle-chalk  formation  of  Europe. 

"  The  stage  which  comprises  all  these  strata,  or  mantospintadores,  encloses  the  principal  wealth 
of  the  Chaiiarcillo  mines,  and  the  true  lines  of  the  chloro-bromide  silver  ores.  It  descends  to 
thirty  or  forty  metres  below  the  surface  of  the  mine  of  San  Jose,  situated  near  the  base  of  the 
mountain.  The  two  spiral  hills  (collines  en  limacon)  are  also  in  the  same  vicinity,  and  I  think 
I  am  not  much  deceived  in  estimaing  the  thickness  of  this  stage  at  one  hundred  and  twenty 
metres,  which  is  divided  into  strata  of  divers  thicknesses,  though  always  composed  of  the  same 
rock.  Indeed,  this  undergoes  very  slight  modifications  of  structure  and  color,  and  its  strata  are 
ordinarily  thick,  though  sometimes  separated  from  one  another  by  an  extremely  thin  layer  of 
yellowish  argil. 

"  Beneath  this  stage,  and  about  two  hundred  and  forty  metres  below  the  surface  of  the  plateau, 
a  second  mesa-piedra  is  reached  similar  to  the  one  above,  causing  metals  to  disappear  from  the 
veins  in  the  same  manner  as  the  other.  It  is  composed  of  rocks  which  are  harder,  more  argil 
laceous,  and  more  compact  than  those  of  the  preceding  stage,  and  to  me  is  apparently  not  less 
thick.  Up  to  the  present  moment  (1846)  it  has  only  been  observed  in  the  mine  of  San  Jose  ; 
and  consequently  we  cannot  decide  whether  it  renders  all  the  veins  in  that  part  of  the  mountain 
sterile,  or  only  those  of  the  mine  cited. 

"  In  the  last,  at  the  bottom  of  the  deepest  excavations,  we  also  find  a  porphyroidal  rock  simi 
lar  to  that  seen  on  the  road  from  Ingenio  to  Chanarcillo.  This  rock  effervesces  with  acids  ;  we 
perceive  within  it  incomplete  feldspathic  crystals  disseminated  amid  a  greyish  paste,  and  its 
crevices  are  spread  over  with  a  red  argil.  It  is  found  to  be  composed  of — 

Carbonate  of  lime 0.076 

Carbonato  of  magnesia 0.034 

Part  acted  on  by  acids 0.316,  holding  0.08  of  silica  soluble  in  potassium. 

Part  not  acted  on 0.572  =  0.998 

cc  I  should  add  that  the  argillaceous  rocks,  those  containing  a  small  proportion  of  carbonate 
of  lime,  sometimes  have  a  schistoidal  structure,  as  we  see  on  the  western  slope  of  the  mountain 
near  Bolaco  Nuevo;  and  secondly,  that  on  the  northwest  side,  towards  the  mountains  touching 


262 


A   VISIT    TO    THE    PROVINCES 


Chaiiarcillo,  wo  meet  layers  of  porphyritic  rocks  having  the  same  external  characteristics  as  the 
rocks  on  the  road  from  Ingenio,  and  those  we  shall  see  more  fully  developed  in  the  mountain  of 
Agua  Amarga." 

Of  the  one  hundred  and  fifteen  mines*  discovered  and  actually  worked  in  El  Bolaco  at  the 
time  of  our  visit,  only  eighteen  much  more  than  paid  expenses,  and  but  four  yielded  abund 
antly.  These  were  La  Descubridora,  El  Delirio,  San  Francisco,  and  San  Jose.  Work  in  the 
others  is  continued  in  expectation  that  a  rich  vein  will  again  be  struck,  many  hundred  thousand 
dollars  being  annually  spent,  for  which  not  one  dollar  is  immediately  received  in  return.  But 
the  miner  never  gives  up  hope  in  El  Bolaco,  and  never  abandons  the  mine  there  for  which 
he  has  been  so  lucky  as  to  secure  a  patent. 

The  longest  horizontal  shaft  excavated  so  far,  is  about  four  hundred  yards  ;  the  greatest  depth 
attained  in  any  mine,  about  two  hundred  yards.  All  the  best  veins  have  a  direction  nearly 
north  and  south,  the  most  productive  inclining  to  the  east.  If  the  inclination  be  to  the  west 
ward  of  north,  it  is  regarded  as  an  unfavorable  symptom,  and  is  very  discouraging,  because  all 
such  have  hitherto  proved  to  contain  very  poor  metal.  Though  the  several  mines  contain 
almost  every  combination  of  silver,  no  other  metals  have  been  found  in  El  Bolaco,  as  there 
has  been  at  some  of  the  hills  in  the  province  of  Coquimbo.  Of  10,488,088  pounds  of  ore  ex 
tracted  and  conveyed  to  the  amalgamating  establishments  during  the  year  1850,  its  cost  to  the 
miners  delivered  and  reduced  was  $600,000  ;  and  the  clear  profit  to  them,  $2,100,000.  In 
addition  to  the  sum  spent  at  the  fruitful  mines  and  their  products,  it  is  estimated  that  $400.000 
was  paid  to  persons  employed  in  excavations  producing  nothing.  Sometimes  there  are  veins 
situated  between  others  yielding  the  richest  ores,  but  which  on  working  prove  wholly  valueless. 
One  in  particular,  so  favorably  situated  in  this  respect,  and  externally  promising  so  well,  caused 
the  ruin  of  every  one  who  persevered  in  its  deceitful  exploration. 

The  following  table  will  show  to  what  extent  silver  mining  is  carried  on  in  the  province,  and 
what  were  some  of  its  results  during  the  year  1850. 


0     . 

Si 

£^ 

i   . 

^ 

S.3 

GJ 

•£  'C 

p.  v 

a) 

s 

"5  5 

<^  "» 

c      ^ 

O  *3 

Mining  district. 

2  .§ 

•a  rt 

>.  S 

C   o 

x'S 

§§ 

E 

s  =  s 

ll 

3 

52 

55 

o 

* 

OH 

ChaKarcillo     

18 

97 

116 

1,760 

10,  488,  088 

Tres  Puntaa    

36 

17 

74 

629 

3,098,817 

7 

7 

14 

99 

476,275 

Romero      

5 

17 

22 

188 

475,567 

San  Jos6  dc  Garin     .     .     . 

5 

12 

22 

148 

524,  WO 

Sacramento    

4 

8 

46 

90 

336,149 

Totals     

75 

158 

294 

2,914 

15.398,996 

Of  these  two  hundred  and  ninety-four  silver  mines,  there  were  only  two  hundred  and  fifty- 
five  worked  at  the  close  of  the  year;  the  remainder  had  been  abandoned.  The  other  mines  in 
operation  were  as  follows  : 


£ 

h 
O 

T3 

o 

P. 
o 

.0 
C3 

ta 

^ 

Department. 

II 

•*- 

O  cS 

>-.2 

<—    . 
o  £ 

25 

— 

c  ~ 
a  B 

Jj 

= 

B 

c 

s 

3 

3 

3 

3 

fc 

fc 

55 

K 

14 

128 

6 

46 

CO 

605 

5 

38 

Vallenar    ...... 

10 

133 

Totals    

84 

966 

11 

84 

•  This  is  the  number  given  in  the  report  of  the  Intendente.    On  the  spot  one  hundred  and  eighteen  were  named  to  me,  and 
the  latter  number  is  more  probably  correct  for  the  date  at  which  I  write — 1851. 


OF   ATACAMA   AND   COQUIMBO.  263 

When  "brought  up  from  the  mines,  ores  are  deposited  in  the  canchas,  as  the  enclosed  yards 
are  called.  All  those  which  will  amalgamate  with  quicksilver  are  broken  in  pieces  of  about 
half  a  cubic  inch,  and  assorted  in  three  piles  of  different  qualities,  according  to  their  richness. 
So  well  versed  in  ores  do  the  men  employed  in  breaking  them  become,  that  they  tell  by  the  touch, 
rather  than  by  weight,  to  which  of  the  piles  a  stone  properly  belongs.  The  fracture  of  the 
richest  ores  is  most  asperous.  Other  ores,  denominated  metales  frios,  comprising  sulphurets, 
arseniates,  &c.,  from  which  the  silver  cannot  be  obtained  by  amalgamation,  are  left  in  pieces 
just  large  enough  to  be  easily  transported,  and  are  sent  out  of  the  country  for  reduction.  When 
broken,  and  the  accumulated  dust  is  expelled  by  winnowing,  as  they  do  chaff  from  wheat,  by 
tossing  it  in  the  air,  the  share  of  each  proprietor  is  carefully  weighed,  and  disposed  of  in  con 
formity  with  his  directions.  There  is  a  large  quantity  of  ore,  however,  of  which  no  use  has 
been  made  to  the  present  time,  because  the  proportion  of  silver  it  contains  is  too  small  to  justify 
tte  expense  of  transportation  and  amalgamation.  Where  water  is  so  scarce,  even  for  the  latter 
purpose,  and  mule-hire  so  extravagant,  unless  the  ore  will  yield  fifteen  marks  to  the  cajon  ($150 
for  6,400  pounds),  it  remains  in  a  heap  before  the  mouth  of  the  mine.  Of  this  character  there 
are  now  lying  at  El  Bolaco  ores  that  are  estimated  to  contain  not  less  than  $> 20,000,000.  A  rail 
road  connecting  with  that  from  Caldera  has  been  pronounced  practicable,  by  following  the  bank 
of  the  stream  until  it  turns  the  northeast  flank  of  Chanarcillo,  and  thence  down  to  El  Bolaco ; 
and  this  silver  cannot  lie  in  waste  much  longer. 

For  extraction  of  metal  from  the  ores,  there  are  eighteen  establishments  in  the  district  of 
Copiapo — all  of  them  the  property  of  companies  or  individuals.*  Thereis  strict  accountability  in 
each  of  them,  which  offers  security  to  the  miner,  independently  of  the  criterion  which  the  analysis 
of  his  ores  affords  him.  In  seventeen  mills  the  system  of  Cooper  is  followed;  in  the  other  the  old 
mode  of  treading  the  amalgam  until  the  silver  and  mercury  are  thoroughly  incorporated,  when 
the  earthy  portions  are  washed  away,  and  only  the  combined  metals  are  left.  Both  men  and 
animals  are  sometimes  weeks  in  treading  the  metallic  tortas  (cakes).  Most  of  these  establish 
ments  are  within  the  city — the  others  at  various  points  along  the  stream  above  it.  The 
machinery  and  mode  of  operations  are  as  follows  : 

A  circular  block  of  granite,  about  three  feet  in  diameter  and  fifteen  or  sixteen  inches  thick,  is 
secured  to  an  upright  revolving  shaft.  This  stone  revolves  over  the  flat  surface  of  another 
block  of  the  same  material,  placed  at  the  bottom  of  a  strong  wooden  tub,  partially  filled  with 
water,  and  into  which  the  ores  are  thrown,  in  the  condition  in  which  they  come  from  the  mine.  In 
the  course  of  a  few  hours,  according  to  the  character  of  the  ores,  they  may  be  ground  between 
these  two  stones  as  fine  as  flour.  Thence  they  are  drawn  into  large  vats  or  tanks,  and  the 
heavier  portions  having  settled  at  the  bottom,  the  clear  water  is  drawn  off.  In  a  second  apart 
ment  there  are  other  tubs  of  wood,  somewhat  larger  than  those  used  in  the  grinding  process. 
These  have  discs  of  iron  at  the  bottom,  with  a  single  groove  from  the  centre  to  an  aperture  on 
one  side.  To  an  axis  revolving  vertically  within  each  tub  there  are  four  iron  arms,  bent  into 
this  form, 


whose  motion  with  the  axis  or  shaft  preserves  a  constant  agitation  of  the  semi-fluid  mass  poured 
in  from  the  vats.  A  due  portion  of  quicksilver  being  added,  the  two  metals  will  have  become 
united,  and  sink  to  the  bottom  in  six  or  eight  hours,  leaving  the  earthy  substances  still  in  solu- 


264  A    VISIT    TO    THE   PROVINCES 

tion.  The  former  is  then  drawn  off  into  a  cavity  beneath  the  floor,  and  poured  into  leathern  or 
"buckskin  bags,  through  whose  pores  the  larger  portion  of  the  quicksilver  rapidly  filters,  and  a 
silver  as  soft  as  putty  remains.  This  being  put  into  moulds,  and  subjected  to  pressure,  another 
portion  of  the  mercury  is  forced  out,  and  the  remainder  is  finally  driven  off  by  evaporation. 
For  this  purpose  i\ie  pinas,  as  the  moulds  of  metal  are  called,  are  placed  under  iron  bells,  rest 
ing  on  vessels  of  water  within  a  furnace,  and  subjected  to  great  heat.  When  all  the  quicksilver 
has  been  expelled,  the  silver  is  quite  porous,  and  may  easily  be  indented  with  the  finger-nail. 
In  this  condition  it  is  the  plata pina*  of  commerce,  though  before  exportation^  the  metal  has 
latterly  and  very  generally  been  formed  into  solid  bars,  after  melting  in  other  furnaces. 

The  whole  process  occupies  only  from  24  to  3G  hours,  according  to  the  durability  and  other 
characteristics  of  the  ores.  Very  little  of  the  quicksilver  is  lost.  The  portion  driven  off  by 
fire  is  received  under  the  iron  bells,  and  condensed  in  the  water;  and  that  remaining  witli  the 
ground  ores,  having  found  no  silver  with  which  it  could  amalgamate,  is  afterwards  washed  out 
when  the  earthy  particles  have  all  subsided,  and  the  water  has  been  drawn  off.  Some  few  years 
since,  one  of  the  establishments,  being  short,  borrowed  a  quantity  of  quicksilver  from  a  native, 
and  poured  the  whole  into  tubs,  with  ores  that  had  been  brought  from  one  of  the  mines  in  the 
province  of  Coquimbo.  At  the  end  of  the  process,  more  quicksilver  was  found  than  had  been 
borrowed — a  fact  no  little  surprising,  until  it  was  demonstratively  ascertained  that  the  vein 
contained  a  combination  of  pure  mercury  and  silver,  amounting  to  13^  per  ct-nt.  of  the  former 
and  86^  per  cent,  of  theJatter  metal.  This  metal  has  since  been  called  arquerite,  from  "Ar- 
queros,"  the  name  of  trfPmine«in  Coquimbo  where  it  was  found. 

Prof.  Domeyko  says  of  this  mineral  :f  "  Disseminated  in  masses,  sometimes  filiform  and 
crystallized  in  regular  octahedrons.  Its  color,  silver-white  ;  the  lustre,  structure,  and  other 
characteristics  are  the  same  as  those  of  native  silver,  for  which  it  was  for  a  long  time  mis 
taken.  Its  specific  gravity  is  10.80.  Under  the  blow-pipe  it  throws  off  sublimate  of  mercury  ; 
and,  on  the  introduction  of  melted  lead  to  it  in  a  cupel.,  it  throws  off  drops  of  silver,  which 
remain  at  the  edge  of  the  cupel.  Dissolved  in  nitric  acid,  the  application  of  muriatic  acid  pro 
duces  a  white  precipitate,  which  blackens  very  little  under  the  action  of  light.  It  is  found  in 
great  abundance  in  the  silver  mines  of  Arqueros,  in  Chile,  which  scarcely  yield  any  other  silver 
mineral.  Its  gangue  is  sulphate  of  barytes,  arsenate  of  cobalt,"  &c. 

The  reader  is  referred  also  to  the  accompanying  report,  by  Prof.  J.  Lawrence  Smith,  con 
taining  an  analysis  of  the  specimens  brought  home  by  the  Astronomical  Expedition. 

The  relaves,  as  the  earthy  substances  are  called,  sometimes  contain  as  much  as  fifty  per  cent. 
of  sulphurets  and  arseniates  of  silver,  and,  when  dried,  were  sold  for  export  to  England,  there 
being  no  smelting  furnaces  for  silver  ores  then  completed  in  Chile.  There  was  one  erecting  at 
the  "  Delirio"  mine  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  which  was  regarded  to  be  as  mad  a  scheme  as 
the  project  of  working  this  very  mine  was  pronounced  to  be  some  few  years  ago ;  and  a  patent  or 
exclusive  privilege  was  subsequently  granted  to  an  English  gentleman,  who  proposed  the  erection 
of  other  furnaces  at  Caldera  and  Coquimbo.  Water  and  animals  have  hitherto  served  as  motive 
powers  for  the  very  simple  machinery  of  the  amalgamating  mills ;  but  now  that  coal  may  be 
transported  on  the  railway  from  Caldera  at  comparatively  reasonable  rates,  proprietors  are 
discussing  the  advantages  of  steam,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  substitution  will  soon  be 
made. 

*  Pine-apple  sitter,  probably  from  the  shape  of  the  moulds  into  which  it  is  passed  from  the  leathern  bags, 
t  Element™  de  Minpralogia :   For  Ignacio  Domeyko.     Serena.     1845. 


VOYAGE   DOWN    THE   MISSOURI.  265 

firmly-fixed  snag,  which  threatens  every  moment  to  sink  us.  I  established  a  strict  guard  over 
the  dangerous  spot,  with  intentions  to  rouse  all  hands  if  the  snag  should  break  through  in  the 
night. 

October  9. — All  hands  roused  at  daylight;  the  boat  still  above  water,  but  in  a  very  bad  situa 
tion.  We  constructed  a  raft  to  transport  everything  ashore  in  case  the  boat  should  be  lost,  but 
still  persevered  to  keep  the  Blackfoot  afloat,  as  a  walk  from  here  to  St.  Louis  would  be  anything 
but  pleasant.  Some  Gros  Ventres  came  to  offer  their  assistance ;  but  little  could  they  do  to  help 
us,  as  they  had  no  canoes  to  come  aboard  in,  and  we  had  no  materials  to  construct  a  raft  to 
bring  them,  but  only  to  manufacture  a  rough  raft  on  which  to  save  ourselves  in  case  the  boat  went 
down.  The  snag  is  directly  under  the  centre  of  our  boat,  and  acts  as  a  pivot  as  we  swring 
the  stern  backward  and  forward  in  our  efforts  to  get  her  off.  At  length  we  happily  succeeded 
in  bracing  up  the  bottom  of  the  boat  and  lifting  it  off  the  snag. 

Arrived  at  Fort  Berthold  about  sunset.  We  received  many  visits  from  the  Gros  Ventres, 
and  gave  them  a  few  presents.  The  Gros  Ventres  have  a  large  village  of  mud  houses — very  un 
sightly  outside,  but  within  warm  and  comfortable. 

These  Indians  are  fine  specimens  of  the  red  man.  They  are  industrious,  and  raise  even 
enough  to  supply  many  of  their  neighbors  with  bread.  They  are  well  disposed  towards  the 
whites.  The  American  Fur  Company  have  a  trading-post  here.  These  Indians,  in  common 
with  some  other  tribes,  have  a  peculiar  method  of  disposing  of  the  bodies  of  their  dead.  They 
are  placed  upon  a  scaffold  six  or  eight  feet  above  the  ground,  enveloped  in  all  the  blankets,  robes, 
&c.,  which  belonged  to  them  when  alive,  with  a  supply  of  food,  arrows,  moccasins,  &c.,  for  the 
use  of  the  deceased  in  the  happy  hunting-grounds.  The  last  resting-place  of  the  Indian  is  as 
sacred  to  his  friends  as  the  white  man's  tomb,  and  whoever  should  disturb  it  in  any  way  would 
expose  himself  to  an  Indian's  vengeance. 

October  10. — I  visited  some  of  the  lodges  of  the  Gros  Ventres,  and  found  them  exceedingly 
comfortable  and  capable  of  accommodating  comfortably  a  hundred  persons.  One  part  of  the 
lodge  is  appropriated  to  their  horses,  dogs,  cattle,  and  chickens,  and  another  to  their  own 
sleeping  apartments.  They  all  seemed  to  live  sociably  and  comfortably  together  during  the 
long  cold  winters  of  this  cold  latitude.  The  lodges  are  built  entirely  by  women,  who,  in  fact, 
do  all  the  domestic  work.  The  men  scorn  to  labor  at  all ;  and  were  they  to  descend  to  so  un 
dignified  and  womanly  employment,  none  would  have  so  great  a  contempt  for  them  as  the 
women  themselves.  Next  to  taking  the  scalp  of  an  enemy,  the  highest  glory  of  a  northwestern 
Indian  is  to  be  an  adroit  horse-stealer.  A  brave,  or  young  man,  ambitious  to  win  a  standing 
in  his  tribe,  will  run  any  risk  to  steal  a  horse  from  any  one,  and  frequently  loses  his  life  in  the 
attempt.  We  left  Fort  Berthold  early;  but,  before  we  had  advanced  far,  were  driven  ashore  by 
a  strong  wind,  which  continued  throughout  the  day.  The  smoke  from  the  burning  prairies  is  so 
dense  as  almost  to  hide  the  sun.  The  fires,  burning  in  every  direction,  present  at  night  a  beauti 
ful  and  magnificent,  though  terrible  appearance. 

October  11. — Arrived  at  Fort  Clark,  or  Aricaree's  village.  It  is  situated  on  the  top  of  a  very 
high  bluff  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  All  boats,  passing  up  or  down,  are  obliged  to  pass  directly 
beneath  this  bluff;  so  that  the  Indians  could  easily  sink  any  boat  undertaking  to  pass  against 
their  will. 

The  Rees  are  not  friendly  to  the  whites,  and  are  kept  from  open  hostilities  only  by  fear.  They 
are  a  large  tribe,  and  on  the  fertile  meadows  they  occupy,  raise  a  great  amount  of  corn  and 
pumpkins,  which  they  exchange  with  the  Crows  and  Dacotahs  for  dried  buffalo  meat  and  robes. 
They  exported  five  thousand  bushels  of  excellent  corn  this  year.  The  work  is  done  by  the 
women.  Twenty-five  hundred  Dacotahs  have  just  been  here  to  trade.  After  buying  every 
thing  for  sale  and  stealing  all  they  could,  they  left  for  the  buffalo  country,  taking  care  to  set  the 
prairies  on  fire,  in  order  to  prevent  the  buffalo  from  visiting  the  Rees  country — an  act  of  das 
tardly  malignity,  as  it  deprives  the  Aricarees  of  the  means  of  support  for  their  horses  and  cattle. 
34/ 


263  VOYAGE    DOWN    THE    MISSOURI. 

A  lew  miles  above  Fort  Clark  is  the  Mantlan  village.  The  Mandans  are  the  finest  Indians  in 
America.  They  number  about  two  hundred  now,  the  tribe  having  been  reduced  a  few  years 
ago  to  eighteen  souls  by  the  smallpox.  Scarcely  one  who  was  attacked  recovered;  and  such 
was  their  desperation,  that  often  when  one  was  satisfied  that  the  disease  was  upon  him,  he  would 
throw  himself  into  the  river  from  the  high  bluff  on  which  the  village  stands,  in  order  to  escape 
the  agonies  of  that  dreadful  and  loathsome  disease. 

We  passed  the  mouth  of  Knife  river:  on  the  plain  above  was  fought,  in  the  autumn  of  1S37, 
between  the  Assiniboins  and  Gros  Ventres,  one  of  the  most  bloody  battles  in  the  annals  of  In 
dian  warfare.  The  Assiniboins,  numbering  four  or  five  hundred,  led  by  "  The  Left-Handed," 
the  greatest  chief  they  ever  had,  attacked  the  Gros  Ventres,  and,  after  a  long  and  desperate  bat 
tle,  were  defeated,  leaving  seventy-five  of  their  best  warriors  dead  upon  the  field.  Some  of  those 
who  escaped  came  to  Fort  Union,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone.  Mr.  Culbertson  describes 
them  as  terribly  cut  up  and  mangled.  The  Gros  Ventres  suffered  but  slightly  in  comparison 
with  their  enemies. 

October  12. — Left  the  Ree  village  at  an  early  hour,  and  continued  the  voyage  till  noon,  when  we 
were  compelled  by  the  wind  to  lie  by  till  evening.  The  country  is  on  fire  in  every  direction, 
and  the  dense  smoke  with  which  the  atmosphere  is  filled  produces  a  very  injurious  effect  upon 
the  eyes. 

October  13. — Fortunately  there  was  no  wind  to-day,  and  we  made  a  fine  run  down  the  river, 
passing  three  encampments  of  Dacotahs.  At  the  first,  a  very  large  one,  several  hundred  warriors 
were  collected  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  completely  commanding  the  passage.  As  we  ap 
proached,  the  chief  hailed  us  and  ordered  us  to  land.  Around  him  stood  a  hundred  grim  war 
riors  with  guns,  and  bows  and  arrows,  ready  to  enforce  his  orders.  Disobedience  would  have 
brought  down  a  shower  of  destructive  missiles.  There  was  no  questioning  the  mandate  of  the 
royal  savage.  Discretion  here  was  manifestly  the  better  part  of  valor ;  so,  pride  yielded  to  pru 
dence,  and  the  Blackfoot  was  brought  to  shore. 

The  Indians  were  somewhat  saucy  and  peremptory,  as  if  presuming  upon  our  weakness,  but 
offered  no  insult;  only  demanding  a  supply  of  tobacco.  I  told  the  chief  that  we  had  not  come 
from  a  tobacco  country,  but  had  crossed  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  seen  thousands  of  Indians,  all 
of  whom  expected  something,  but  that  I  would  divide  my  little  remaining  stock  with  them.  As 
they  seemed  bent  on  mischief,  I  thought  it  best  to  end  the  interview.  As  the  boat  left  the  shore, 
an  arrow  was  discharged  at  the  pilot  from  behind  a  clump  of  bushes.  It  fell  short  of  its  aim,  and 
penetrated  deeply  the  timber  of  the  boat.  The  fellow  who  fired  it  being  concealed,  prevented 
the  rifles  of  my  men  from  reaching  him.  This  was  probably  fortunate,  as,  had  we  killed  the 
assassin,  it  would  have  undoubtedly  brought  a  useless  conflict,  perhaps  fatal  to  us,  and,  at  any 
rate,  exposed  us  to  perpetual  annoyance  from  this  powerful  tribe  in  our  further  course  down  the 
river.  A  fine  old  Indian,  seeing  the  serious  turn  things  seemed  to  be  taking,  came  running 
down  to  the  river,  swam  out  to  the  boat,  and  wanted  to  accompany  us  through  the  Dacotah 
country,  in  order  to  tell  his  people  that  they  must  offer  no  impediment  to  our  voyage.  He  ex 
pressed  a  great  deal  of  indignation  against  the  Indian  who  had  shot  his  arrow  at  us;  said  he 
had  a  "bad  heart,"  and  would  not  be  upheld  by  the  brave  of  the  tribe.  Our  volunteer  friend 
was  faithful  to  his  professions,  as,  at  the  next  encampment  we  encountered,  we  were  treated 
with  perfect  civility  by  the  tribe.  Soon  after  sunset  we  reached  the  main  encampment,  situated 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  upon  a  commanding  bluffj  one  hundred  feet  high.  The  sides  and 
top  of  the  hill  were  covered  with  Indians,  to  the  number  of  three  hundred  warriors.  As  we 
reached  the  landing  our  friendly  chief  told  them  what  had  happened  above ;  that  we  were  in 
much  hurry  to  get  on  our  way ;  I  had  only  stopped  there  to  give  them  a  little  tobacco.  They 
listened  in  silence  to  the  old  chief,  and  suffered  us  to  proceed  without  molestation  or  insult. 
These  Sioux  hold  the  white  man's  power  in  a  good  deal  of  contempt,  and  are  sadly  in  need  of 
a  lesson.  We  kept  on  all  night,  in  order  to  get  out  of  the  way  of  these  dangerous  fellows.  For- 


VOYAGE   DOWN    THE   MISSOURI.  267 

tunately,  it  was  a  clear,  still,  moonlight  night,  and  before  morning  we  were  at  a  long  distance 
from  them. 

October  14. — Arrived  about  12  o'clock  at  a  small  trading  encampment  of  the  American  Fur 
Company.  Found  a  large  body  of  Sioux  here,  who  were  tolerably  civil,  and  invited  us  to  stay 
a  day  or  two,  to  atlend  a  dog- feast.  We  felt  no  particular  desire  to  cultivate  an  intimacy  with 
people  so  inauspiciously  commenced,  and  I  declined  their  hospitality.  We  gave  them  a  few 
presents,  and  bade  them  good-bye  for  the  present.  We  took  on  board  an  old  Indian  who  is  going 
down  to  Fort  Pierre  with  us  to  see  the  Indian  agent. 

October  18. — We  reached  Fort  Pierre  about  12  o'clock  m.  During  the  last  four  days  we  have 
had  many  detentions  from  high  winds  and  sand-bars.  The  river  is  so  low,  and  the  channel  so 
crooked,  that  it  is  impossible  to  get  along  without  running  high  and  dry  upon  the  sand-bars.  The 
men  have  worked  with  praiseworthy  energy,  standing  in  the  water  at  a  temperature  of  40°  until 
they  were  completely  chilled.  Two  days  before  our  arrival  at  this  place,  the  main  body  of  the 
Yankton  Sioux,  in  number  some  twenty-five  hundred,  had  left  for  the  buffalo  country.  They 
have  been  here  to  receive  their  presents  from  the  government.  Two  more  bands  are  expected 
in  a  few  days. 

October  20. — We  made  but  little  progress  on  account  of  the  wind.  About  dark  met  a  boat, 
loaded  with  potatoes  and  other  vegetables,  belonging  to  the  American  Fur  Company.  They 
were  raised  on  an  island  a  few  miles  below.  We  obtained  a  sufficient  supply  for  the  remainder 
of  the  voyage. 

October  21. —  The  high  wind  continuing,  we  made  but  little  progress.  Passed' Fort  Pierre 
island — a  fine,  fertile  spot  in  the  Missouri,  containing  several  hundred  acres  of  excellent  land. 
The  American  Fur  Company  raise  all  their  corn  and  vegetables  here.  When  this  country  is 
settled  this  island  will  be  very  valuable. 

October  23. — For  the  last  two  days  we  have  made  but  little  progress,  as  the  wind  has  been 
blowing  a  perfect  gale.  To-day  has  been  calm,  and  we  have  made  a  fine  run  down  the  river. 
The  banks  this  morning  were  frozen  quite  hard,  and  some  ice  was  formed  at  the  edge  of  the 
water,  indicating  that  the  navigation  would  soon  be  closed  for  this  year.  We  were  continually 
running  upon  sand-banks,  and  all  hands  were  obliged  to  go  into  the  water  to  lift  the  boat  off; 
anything  but  a  luxurious  bath,  in  this  frigid  temperature.  Passed  through  the  Great  Bend  of  the 
Missouri,  and  encamped  at  night  near  the  mouth  of  the  White  Earth  river.  The  night  is  cold  and 
windy,  and  clouds  around  the  setting  sun  indicate  snow  for  to-morrow. 

October  25. — We  have  made  but  one  full  day's  run  since  leaving  Fort  Pierre,  having  been 
wind-bound  most  of  the  time.  To-day  the  wind  has  abated  somewhat,  and  we  made  out  to 
reach  Cedar  island,  after  working  at  the  oars  steadily  for  twelve  hours.  The  island  was  formerly 
occupied  by  the  Mormons,  but  the  Indians  proving  troublesome,  they  were  obliged  to  abandon  it. 
The  water  is  uncommonly  low,  with  very  little  current,  and  our  progress  is  consequently  very 
slow.  Passed  several  hot  sulphur  springs  twenty-five  miles  above  this  place.  Their  water  is 
clear,  and  evidently  strongly  impregnated  with  the  mineral.  Saw  wild  turkeys  for  the  first  time. 
They  are  seldom  seen  above  this  point,  and  have  never,  I  believe,  been  found  beyond  the  Rocky 
mountains. 

October  30. — For  the  last  few  days  we  have  had  fine  weather,  and  made  a  long  distance  down 
the  river.  We  have  passed  Floyd's  bluff,  so  called  in  commemoration  of  Sergeant  Floyd,  one  of 
the  men  belonging  to  Lewis  and  Clark's  expedition,  which  crossed  the  mountains  in  1804,  who 
was  killed  here.  We  fired  a  salute  in  honor  of  the  brave  sergeant  who,  forty-nine  years  before, 
was  of  the  party  that  had  started  to  explore  the  route  we  had  just  traversed. 

The  region  through  which  we  passed  appears  to  be  as  favorable  for  agriculture  as  any  in  the 
United  States.  I  saw  to-day,  at  a  cabin  where  we  stopped,  some  of  the  best  specimens  of  grain 
and  vegetables  I  have  yet  seen. 

We  are  encamped  within  sight  of  "Blackbird's  Hill,"  so  called  from  a  famous  Indian  c   ief, 


26' 8  VOYAGE   DOWN    THE   MISSOURI. 

who,  at  his  own  request,  was  buried  on  horseback  on  the  top  of  it,  in  a  commanding  position, 
that  he  might  sec  the  white  men  as  they  came  up  the  river.  It  is  not  an  unfrequent  custom 
among  some  of  the  northwestern  tribes  to  bury  a  warrior  with  his  favorite  horses,  which  are 
killed  for  that  purpose.  It  is  not  a  rare  exhibition  of  filial  affection  and  faith  for  a  son  to  kill  his 
best  horses — almost  the  only  wealth  an  Indian  has — and  put  their  bodies  in  the  grave  of  his  dead 
father,  in  order  that  he  may  be  equipped  for  hunting  buffalo  in  the  happy  hunting  grounds. 

I  saw  immense  flocks  of  geese,  swans,  and  brants  on  the  wing  for  the  south  in  their  autumnal 
migration. 

The  prairies  are  burning  in  every  direction,  and  the  smoke  is  almost  stifling.  From  this  point 
to  Fort  Leaven  worth  the  country  is  so  well  known  that  a  further  description  is  unnecessary  in 
this  report.  The  Indians  are  friendly,  and  acquainted  with  the  whites,  and  the  river  well 
adapted  to  steamboat  navigation. 

On  the  8th  of  November,  when  a  few  miles  below  St.  Joseph,  Missouri,  we  were  gratified  by 
the  sight  of  the  steamer  Honduras;  she  passed  up  the  river  in  the  face  of  a  high  wind,  which 
had  blown  the  Blackfoot  high  and  dry  upon  a  sand-bar.  On  the  9lh  we  transferred  our  persons 
and  property  to  the  steamer,  took  the  Blackfoot  in  tow,  and  started  for  St.  Louis.  The  change 
was  agreeable  to  us  all,  after  having  been  confined  for  nearly  fifty  days  in  a  small  keel-boat,  and 
weather-bound  sometimes  for  days  together. 

The  soldiers  of  the  dragoon  escort  deserve  great  credit  for  the  cheerfulness  with  which  they 
endured  the  hardships,  ordinary  and  extraordinary,  of  the  long  navigation  from  Fort  Benton. 
Though  frequently  obliged,  when  the  boat  was  aground  or  missed  the  channel,  to  work  in  the 
water,  often  when  the  thermometer  was  below  the  freezing  point,  and  ice  upon  the  shores  of  the 
river,  they  did  not  shrink  nor  murmur,  and  are  entitled  to  this  expression  of  cordial  approbation. 

I  turned  over  the  keel-boat  to  the  quartermaster  at  Fort  Leavenworth ;  left  the  soldiers  and 
discharged  employes  at  St.  Louis;  and,  in  company  wilh  Mr.  W.  M.  Graham  and  Sergeant 
Collins,  arrived  in  Washington  on  the  21st  of  November. 

From  as  careful  a  survey  of  the  country  through  which  I  passed  as  the  limited  means  at 
my  disposal,  and  the  rapid  rate  at  which  [  travelled,  would  admit,  I  give  as  the  result  of  my 
observations: 

First.  That,  from  the  mouth  of  Wallah-Wallah  river  to  Fort  Benton,  no  insurmountable 
obstacle  to  the  construction  of  a  railroad  exists,  and  that  the  Blackfoot  or  Cadotte's  Pass  is  much 
the  lowest  pass  through  the  Rocky  mountains  that  has  yet  been  discovered,  and  eminently  fitted 
by  nature  for  the  line  of  railroad. 

Second.  That  the  region  is  well  watered,  rich  in  agricultural  and  mineral  resources,  and 
abounding  in  fine  timber  and  all  other  materials  necessary  for  the  construction  of  a  railroad.  It 
is  destined,  and  at  no  very  distant  period,  to  be  occupied  by  a  civilized  and  energetic  population, 
capable  of  making  roads  for  themselves,  independently  of  those  which  are  to  form  the  great 
lines  of  communication  between  the  eastern  and  western  oceans. 

Third.  That,  in  a  military  point  of  view,  it  is  of  the  highest  importance  that  treaties  should  be 
entered  into  with  all  the  wild  tribes  of  Indians  who  inhabit  the  Northwest,  not  included  in 
existing  treaties.  It  is  important  that  they  should  be  made  to  realize  the  power  and  strength  of 
the  United  States  government,  and  look  to  it  for  protection  and  justice,  instead  of  looking  to 
United  States  officials  as  intruders,  and  owning,  as  many  do,  England  as  their  natural  guardian. 
In  case  of  difficulty  between  the  two  countries,  the  powerful  tribes  might  be  made  the  instru 
ments  of  incalculable  injury  to  our  frontier  settlements.  It  ought,  therefore,  to  be  made  obviously 
their  interest  to  be  on  good  terms  with  the  United  States.  Any  hostile  feelings  they  may  enter 
tain  towards  us  should  be  conciliated  by  a  policy  uniformly  and  unequivocally  characterized  by 
justice,  forbearance,  and  generosity. 

The  Missouri  river  offers  the  means  of  easy  communication  with  them.  It  is  navigable  to  the 
falls,  or  near  them,  and  there  the  most  remote  tribes  can  be  collected. 


ROUTE  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  WALLAH- WALLAH.  269 

Many  of  the  tribes  are  now  deadly  enemies,  but  have  promised  to  stop  fighting  until  next 
summer,  and  then  to  meet  in  council  to  hear  the  "white  man's  talk,"  and,  if  possible,  to  establish 
a  lasting  peace  with  them,  and  with  each  other.  By  sending  up  a  steamer,  annually,  with 
supplies  of  articles,  useful  or  desirable  for  the  Indians,  they  will  soon  understand  the  advantage 
of  friendly  intercourse  with  us,  and  suffer  emigrant  parties  to  the  west,  beyond  the  mountains,  to 
pass  unmolested  and  in  safety.  The  importance  of  the  proposed  convention  of  tribes  at  Fort 
Benton  can  hardly  be  exaggerated.  Every  principle  of  justice  and  policy  to  the  Indian,  to  the 
emigrant,  and  to  the  United  States,  requires  that  some  honest  arrangement  of  the  relations  of  the 
government  and  the  tribes  should  be  made  in  good  faith.  Whether  they  can  ever  be  reclaimed 
from  their  present  wandering  life,  and  fixed  in  permanent  homes,  is  a  problem  not  yet  perhaps 
absolutely  solved,  but  upon  which  experience  has  cast  some  light.  Whether  they  are  destined 
to  pass  away  before  the  advance  of  civilization,  with  the  buffalo  that  forms  their  subsistence; 
whether  contact  with  the  white  man  shall  always  work  the  degradation  of  the  Indian;  by  a  wise, 
just,  and  humane  policy  on  our  part,  open  hostilities  between  the  two  races  may  be  prevented, 
and  thus  one  formidable  obstacle  to  the  success  of  the  object  to  which  our  labors  the  past  season 
have  been  directed — the  finding  of  a  safe  way  for  emigrants  to  the  farthest  west  and  for  the 
construction  of  an  inter-oceanic  railroad — will  be  removed. 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

RUFUS  SAXTON, 
Second  Lieutenant  Fourth  Artillery. 

Hon.  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 


18.  REPORT  OF  LIEUTENANT  DONELSON  AS  TO  THE  RAILROAD  PRACTICABILITY  OF  THE  ROUTE 
FROM  FORT  BENTON,  BY  LEWIS  AND  CLARK's  AND  CADOTTE's  PASSES,  BLACKFOOT  TRAIL, 
THE  BITTER  ROOT,  AND  JOCKO  LINES,  TO  CLARK's  FORK,  AND  THENCE  ACROSS  THE  GREAT 
PLAIN  OF  THE  COLUMBIA  TO  WALLAH-WALLAH ;  WITH  THE  REPORTS  OF  LIEUTENANT  R. 
ARNOLD,  U.  S.  A.,  AND  MESSRS.  F.  W.  LANDER  AND  A.  W.  TINKHAM,  ASSISTANT  ENGINEERS. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

February  23,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report  of  the  survey  of  a  route  for  a  railroad 
from  Fort  Benton,  across  the  Rocky  mountains,  by  way  of  Cadotte's  Pass,  to  the  valley  of  the 
Bitter  Root  river,  and  thence,  by  way  of  Clark's  fork  and  the  Spokane  house,  to  Fort  Wallah- 
Wallah. 

The  party  you  had  designated  for  the  prosecution  of  this  survey  moved  from  camp,  near  Fort 
Benton,  at  noon  on  the  16th  of  September.  Mr.  Lander,  the  engineer  for  estimates,  started  on 
the  15th,  and  having  joined  his  party,  which  was  encamped  on  the  Teton,  some  miles  above 
where  we  were,  moved  forward  on  the  16th  towards  Sun  river.  He  was  to  pursue  a  course 
north  of  that,  to  be  followed  by  the  main  party,  and,  crossing  the  mountains  by  a  favorable  pass, 
to  proceed  thence  to  the  Flathead  village. 

The  course  of  a  railroad  line  from  Milk  to  Marias  river  having  been  determined  !by  Mr.  Tink- 
ham,  and  from  the  Marias  to  the  Teton  by  reconnaissance  of  both  Messrs.  Lander  and  Tinkham, 
the  above-mentioned  disposition  of  his  party  enabled  Mr.  Lander  to  carry  forward  a  line,  to  esti 
mate  cost,  &c.,  to  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  river.  On  the  19th  Mr.  Tinkham  left  the  party 
for  the  purpose  of  reconnoitring  Sun  river,  as  an  approach  to  the  mountains.  He  was  to  meet 
us  again  on  the  Dearborn,  or  at  some  point  not  far  beyond. 

Having  passed  the  ridge  which  separated  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  ocean  from  those  of  the 
Pacific,  on  the  22d  of  September,  we  reached  the  Flathead  village  on  the  29th.  I  here  received 


270  KOUTE   FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    WALL  AH- WALL  AH. 

instructions  from  you  as  to  the  further  continuation  of  the  survey.  Mr.  Tinkham,  who  had  left 
the  main  party  on  the  26th  for  the  purpose  of  examining  a  route  which  led  to  the  Jocko  river,  did 
not  return  until  after  we  left  the  Flathead  village,  and  was  then  placed  by  you  on  duties  which 
separated  him  from  the  main  party.  In  continuing  the  survey,  Mr.  Lander  was  directed  to  .follow 
the  Bitter  Root  to  its  junction  with  Clark's  fork,  in  order  to  determine  its  practicability  for  a  rail 
road.  The  main  party  passed  from  the  Bitter  Root  to  the  Jocko,  and  following  the  latter  to  its 
mouth,  entered  the  valley  of  Clark's  fork.  Mr.  Lander  rejoined  us  at  Horse  Plain.  Hence  we 
pursued  the  line  of  Clark's  fork  to  a  point  twelve  miles  below  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille.  Here 
Lieutenant  Arnold  left  with  a  select  party  for  the  purpose  of  connecting  the  line  with  Fort  Col- 
ville  and  with  Captain  McClellan's  survey,  in  case  he  should  not  have  arrived  at  that  point.  The 
main  party  crossing  to  the  Spokane  river,  thence  proceeded  to  a  point  twelve  miles  west,  where 
we  met  yourself  and  Captain  McClellan  with  his  party. 

Here  terminated  the  operations  directed  in  your  instructions  to  me  of  the  2d  of  October.  But, 
in  pursuance  of  further  orders,  the  party,  organized  as  before,  proceeded  to  Wallah-Wallah. 
We  followed  an  Indian  trail,  and  crossing  the  Saptin  or  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Peluse,  arrived  at  Wallah-Wallah  on  the  6th  of  November. 

The  results  of  the  survey,  which  tend  to  show  the  capacity  of  the  country  for  a  railroad,  must 
be  briefly  stated.  From  Teton  river  to  the  foot  of  the  dividing  ridge  are  two  summit  levels  to  be 
attained,  and  on  the  route  we  followed  a  difficult  approach  to  that  ridge,  along  the  sides  of  the 
mountain  spur,  adjacent  to  the  south  fork  of  the  Dearborn.  The  following  are  the  probable 
gradients  on  this  route:  From  the  Teton  to  the  first  summit,  twenty-one  miles  of  ascent,  at  the 
rate  of  twenty-seven  feet  per  mile.  Then  to  the  crossing  of  the  Sun  river,  thirty-one  miles, 
descending  at  seventeen  feet  per  mile.  To  the  second  summit  an  ascent  of  twenty  miles,  at  the 
rate  of  forty-four  feet  per  mile,  but  this  with  the  supposition  that  there  will  be  a  tunnel  of  half  a 
mile  in  length  at  that  summit.  From  here  to  a  point  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Dearborn  would 
be  sixteen  miles,  with  gradients  of  twenty  feet  per  mile.  Then  to  the  foot  of  the  dividing 
ridge,  eight  miles  of  heavy  and  costly  work,  and  with  an  ascending  gradient  of  not  less  than 
six.ty-five  feet  per  mile.  While  this  route  is  thus  barely  practicable  with  respect  to  the  gradients, 
it  is  exceedingly  unfavorable  in  other  respects.  A  portion  of  the  country  between  Sun  river  and 
the  Dearborn  is  so  very  rugged,  that  it  would  be  advantageous  to  make  a  considerable  detour  to 
cross  it,  and  this  detour  could  not  be  made  after  passing  the  former  stream. 

From  Mr.  Tinkham's  report,  I  would  judge  that  the  approach  along  the  route  he  followed  is 
far  preferable  to  that  which  has  been  considered.  And  if,  as  I  have  estimated,  the  direct  approach 
can  be  made  with  a.  gradient  of  sixty-five  feet  per  mile,  the  oblique  approach  will  not  require  one 
steeper  than  sixty  feet.  In  the  matter  of  construction,  it  may  be  said  that  Teton,  Sun,  and  Dear 
born  rivers  would  furnish  sufficient  sand  and  gravel  for  the  road-bed,  and  would  contribute  to  the 
supply  of  timber,  their  banks  producing  a  moderate  quantity  of  good  cotton-wood.  The  re 
mainder  of  the  timber  would  come  from  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  the  pass,  where  grow 
yellow  and  pitch  pine — a  good  quality.  The  soil  between  the  Teton  and  Sun  rivers  is  favorable 
for  the  purpose  of  a  railroad ;  that  between  the  Sun  and  Dearborn  containing  a  large  proportion 
of  clay,  would  be  somewhat  affected  by  frost.  I  noticed  but  one  locality  of  good  building-stone, 
and  this  was  a  few  miles  to  the  east  of  Beaver  creek.  In  a  country  where,  like  this,  a  variety  of 
rock  is  known  to  exist,  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  extensive  deposits  of  good  building-stone 
could  be  found:  one  of  these  being  connected  with  the  line  by  a  branch  railway,  would  provide 
for  the  supply  of  this  material.  The  point  at  which  I  have  supposed  the  main  tunnel  should 
commence  on  the  eastern  side,  is  one  thousand  and  fifteen  feet  below  the  mountain  summit.  The 
tunnel  would  be  four  and  three-quarter  miles  in  length,  and  would  issue  at  a  point  three  and  a 
half  miles  from  the  western  base  of  the  dividing  ridge.  In  this  connexion,  it  should  be  remarked 
that  the  western  is  five  hundred  and  sixty-seven  feet  higher  than  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountain. 

The  location  of  the  road  east  of  the  mountains  was  not  decided  upon   with  sufficient  detail  to 


ROUTE    FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    WALL  AH- WALLAH.  271 

enable  me  to  speak  positively  concerning  the  curves.  The  deflection  from  the  direct  line,  con 
necting  the  crossing  of  the  Teton  with  the  pass,  would  be  inconsiderable,  and  by  curves,  accord 
ing  to  my  estimate,  of  from  two  to  six  thousand  feet  radius  at  the  crossings  ;  to  avoid  the  uneven 
ground  between  the  Sun  and  Dearborn  rivers,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  pass,  curves  adopted  to 
secure  the  proper  gradients.  Without*  being  certain  of  the  point,  I  think  it  would  be  safe  to 
estimate  that  the  tunnel  would  have  to  be  cut  through  a  formation  of  which  fifty  per  cent,  is  a 
rock  of  clay  slate. 

Our  observations  show  that  the  Blackfoot  fork,  down  which  we  travelled,  descends  at  the 
rate  of  thirty  feet  per  mile.  Making  a  due  allowance  for  errors,  I  estimate  that  the  railroad  could 
descend  for  the  first  thirty-six  miles  with  a  gradient  of  forty-five  feet  per  mile,  and  for  the  remain 
ing  distance,  to  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root,  with  one  of  thirty-five  feet  per  mile.  In  the  last  ten 
miles  of  the  thirty-six,  four  sharp  curves  would  be  necessary ;  but  the  location  could  be  so  made 
that  neither  would  require  to  have  a  less  radius  than  two  thousand  feet.  At  our  camp  of  the  24th 
and  25th  of  September  the  valley  of  the  Blackfoot  fork  becomes  enlarged,  the  mountain  spurs 
receding  off  either  side  to  a  distance  of  six  or  seven  miles  from  the  stream;  the  intermediate  space 
has  a  gentle  slope  connecting  the  bases  of  the  mountains  with  the  stream.  Mr.  Tinkham  reports 
that  this  valley  could  be  favorably  connected  with  the  summit  between  it  and  the  tributaries  of 
the  Flathead  river.  I  think  that  further  examinations  might  establish  a  very  good  connexion  by 
this  route  with  the  valley  of  Clark's  fork.  For  a  line  down  the  Blackfoot  fork,  there  would  occur 
two  curves  of  the  minimum  radius  before  reaching  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root.  The  last 
twenty  miles  are  through  a  defile,  where  there  would  be  about  twenty-five  per  cent,  of  rock- 
cutting  ;  the  rock  being  a  kind  of  limestone,  which  appeared  to  disintegrate  rapidly  by  exposure 
to  the  weather. 

In  the  event  of  Mr.  Lander's  report  being  adverse  to  the  practicability  of  the  line  of  the  Bitter 
Root  river,  it  seems  to  me  that,  with  our  present  knowledge,  the  following  is  the  best  plan  for 
making  the  descent  into  the  valley  of  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia :  Leave  Hell  Gate  river  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Blackfoot  fork,  and  pursuing  the  hill-sides  and  the  plateau  which  intervene, 
attain  the  summit  of  the  first  hill  occurring  between  the  Bitter  Root  and  the  Jocko.  This,  as  dur 
observations  indicate,  could  be  accomplished  with  a  gradient  of  thirty -five  feet  per  mile  :  to  allow 
for  errors,  I  estimate  it  at  forty  feet  per  mile.  Having  attained  the  summit,  strike  a  tributary  of 
the  Jocko,  which  is  adjacent  to  the  present  trail,  and  descend  along  its  banks  and  those  of  the 
Jocko  to  the  valley  of  the  Flathead,  and  so  to  that  of  Clark's  fork ;  which  name  I  here  propose  to 
apply  to  the  stream  below  the  junction  of  the  Bitter  Root.  The  descent  to  the  valley  of  the 
Jocko  could  be  made  with  a  gradient  of  forty  feet;  this  grade  is  assumed  at  fifty  feet.  Hence, 
to  the  junction  of  the  Bitter  Root  with  the  Flathead,  it  would  be  one  of  twenty  feet.  Another 
plan  for  passing  from  the  Blackfoot  to  Clark's  fork  has  been  already  alluded  to.  It  is  that  which 
is  referred  to  by  Mr.  Tinkham.  If  it  should  prove  to  be  as  favorable  throughout  as  is  supposed, 
it  would  be  by  far  the  preferable  plan. 

The  means  of  our  observations  indicate  that  the  average  fall  of  Clark's  fork  is  about  eleven 
feet  per  mile.  I  estimate  that  the  railroad  could  descend  with  gradients  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet  per  mile.  As  far  as  I  can  at  present  say  concerning  the  location,  I  think  the  road,  after 
passing  from  the  valley  of  the  Jocko  into  that  of  the  Flathead,  would  follow  the  hills  on  the  left 
of  the  stream  to  a  point  some  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Bitter  Root.  Then  crossing  the 
former,  it  would  follow  the  right  banks  of  Clark's  fork  as  far  as  Big  Rock ;  here  it  would  cross, 
and,  following  down  the  left  bank,  would  recross  at  the  Cabinet.  Then  tunnelling  the  Cabinet 
mountains  three  hundred  yards,  it  would  continue  on  the  right  of  the  river  to  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille, 
and  on  the  eastern  side  of  that  to  its  lower  extremity. 

As  the  lake  is  subject  to  high  freshets,  perhaps  variations  of  fifteen  feet  from  low  to  high  water, 
it  would  be  necessary  to  run  the  railroad  above  this,  by  keeping  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  in  some 


272  ROUTE   FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    WALLAH  WALT, AH. 

instances  by  high  embankments.     A  bridge  half  a  mile  long  would  be  necessary  for  crossing  the 
valley  of  Pack  river. 

I  do  not  think  there  would  be  much  difficulty  in  providing  against  the  great  freshets  to  which 
Clark's  fork  is  liable.  As  for  the  lake,  so  for  this,  fifteen  is  about  the  difference  of  level  between 
high  and  low  water  marks. 

The  tunnel  at  the  Cabinet  mountains  would  be  through  a  formation  of  which  fifty  per  cent,  is 
rock,  this  being  basaltic  trap. 

As  regards  the  subject  of  construction  west  of  the  Rocky  mountain  summit,  it  may  be  remarked 
that  the  line  passes,  in  nearly  its  whole  extent,  through  fine  forests,  which  would  furnish  an  abund 
ance  of  pine,  of  cedar  of  fine  quality,  and  of  fir  and  larch. 

I  saw  no  good  stone  for  building.  A  locality  on  the  Blackfoot  fork  not  far  from  Hell  Gate,  "  Big 
Rock,"  and  the  mountains  on  the  right  of  Clark's  fork  for  some  distance  below  Thompson's  prairie, 
would,  however,  furnish  a  great  abundance,  which  would  answer  for  ordinary  purposes.  The 
prevailing  rocks  appeared  to  be  a  limestone,  a  quartz  rock,  somewhat  resembling  the  gold-bearing 
quartz,  and  the  basaltic  trap.  Mr.  Tinkham  mentioned  that  not  far  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com 
pany's  post,  among  the  Flatheads,  a  great  quantity  of  good  limestone  for  building  could  be  ob 
tained.  Not  far  from  the  lower  end  of  the  lake  I  think  it  would  be  advisable  to  mark  the  crossing 
of  Clark's  fork. 

Should  it  be  desirable  to  carry  the  railroad  by  Fort  Colville,  I  may  here  state  that  Lieutenant 
Arnold  reports  but  one  obstacle  on  the  route  he  followed,  and  refers  to  a  way  by  which  that  can 
be  avoided.  The  transit  from  Clark's  fork  to  the  Sponkane  could  be  made  with  gradients  of  not 
more  than  twenty-five  feet.  It  might  be  facilitated  by  making  use  of  the  valley  of  a  small  stream 
which  empties  into  Clark's  fork  at  about  twelve  miles  below  the  lake,  and  of  a  valley  seen  by  us 
ten  miles  west  of  Clark's  fork,  and  which  appeared  to  make  into  Cceur  d'Alene  prairie.  A  further 
examination  is  necessary  to  establish  that  the  connexion  could  be  made  in  this  way.  And  if 
so  made,  a  considerable  deflection  from  the  line  of  direction  of  the  road  would  be  required. 

The  remainder  of  the  distance  to  Wallah- Wallah  could  probably  be  accomplished  with  gra 
dients  of  thirty-five  feet  to  the  summit  between  the  Spokane  and  Lewis's  fork,  of  thirty  feet  from 
that  summit  to  the  crossing  of  the  latter  river,  and  of  twenty  feet  thence  to  Wallah-Wallah. 

From  the  barren  nature  of  this  portion  of  country,  the  supplies  for  construction  would  have  to 
come  from  the  mountains  to  the  east,  and  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  to  the  west.  From  Fort 
Benton  to  Wallah-Wallah  the  distance  is  six  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  In  a  direct  line  it  is  four 
hundred  and  six  miles. 

The  difference  of  level  between  the  two  points  is  about  one  thousand  nine  hundred  feet.  From 
the  Rocky  mountain  summit  to  the  Spokane  river  the  location  of  the  road  can  be  more  definitely 
decided  upon  than  elsewhere  on  the  route.  Within  these  limits  the  most  important  curves  are  six 
which  would  occur  in  the  first  sixty  miles  west  of  the  pass,  and  one  that  would  be  necessary  not 
far  above  the  junction  of  the  Bitter  Root  river.  These  will  be  of  from  two  to  four  thousand  feet 
radius.  The  great  deflections  from  the  direct  line  are,  that  to  the  south  by  way  of  the  Blackfoot, 
and  that  to  the  north  by  way  of  Clark's  fork.  The  first  could  be  reduced,  if  a  good  pass  and 
route  should  be  found  at  or  near  the  head  of  the  Jocko;  the  second,  by  pursuing  a  more  direct 
route  from  the  lower  crossing  of  Clark's  fork  to  Wallah- Wallah.  It  will  be  seen,  by  examining 
the  profile,  that  one  hundred  and  twelve  miles  of  the  route — that  is,  from  the  summit  between 
the  Teton  and  Sun  rivers  to  our  camp  of  September  24  and  25 — are  at  an  elevation  of  between 
four  and  five  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  One  hundred  and  twenty  miles — that  is, 
thirty-two  miles  from  the  high  prairies  opposite  Fort  Benton  to  the  summit  west  of  the  Teton, 
and  eighty-eight  miles  from  the  camp  of  September  24  to  that  of  October  6 — are  at  an  elevation 
of  between  two  thousand  eight  hundred  and  four  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  Three  hundred 
and  forty-nine  miles  from  the  camp  of  October  6  to  that  of  November  2,  are  at  an  elevation 
of  between  fifteen  hundred  and  two  thousand  eight  hundred  feet;  and  sixty-nine  miles  from  the 


FROM   BL /ICEFOOT   TRAIL   TO   CLARK'S   FORK.  273 

camp  of  November  2  to  Wallah-Wallah,  are  from  three  hundred  and  thirty-eight  to  fifteen  hun 
dred  feet  above  the  sea.  The  dividing  ridge  of  the  Rocky  mountains  was,  where  we  crossed 
it,  six  thousand  and  forty-four  feet  above  the  sea;  a  discussion  of  the  observation  on  which  this 
depends  will,  however,  probably  show  that  the  result  is  too  great.  The  estimates  I  have  made 
for  gradients  depend  on  the  barometrical  observations. 

This  instrument,  from  the  variations  it  exhibits  when  observed  at  different  intervals  at  the  same 
place,  cannot  be  perfectly  reliable  when  but  one  is  used  on  an  extended  line ;  so  that  the  estimate 
may,  on  a  detailed  survey  of  the  country,  prove  to  be  considerably  erroneous. 

I  have  to  transmit  herewith  a  report  from  Lieutenant  Arnold,  on  the  route  he  followed  to  Fort 
Colville,  and  one  from  Mr.  Tinkham,  giving  an  account  of  a  reconnaissance  made  by  him  in  con 
nexion  with  this  portion  of  the  survey.  Mr.  Lander  declines  reporting  to  me  on  the  railroad 
results  obtained  by  him.  As  you  are  conversant  with  all  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  I  have 
to  request,  that  with  reference  to  any  report  he  may  render  you  touching  this  portion  of  the  sur 
vey,  you  adopt  such  course  as  you  may  think  proper. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 
Second  Lieutenant  of  Engineers. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey. 


REPORT  OF  A.  W.  TINKHAM,  GIVING  THE  RESULT  OP  EXAMINATIONS  AS  TO  A  CUT-OFF  FROM  THE 

BLACKFOOT  TRAIL  TO  CLARK'S  FORK. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

February  18,  1854. 

DEAR  SIR  :  As  a  precautionary  measure  to  secure  the  safety  of  my  note-book  on  leaving 
Wallah- Wallah  for  my  recent  passage  of  the  Cascade  range,  I  committed  to  the  charge  of  Wilson 
all  notes  and  papers  which  I  had  with  me,  with  instructions  to  proceed  to  this  place  by  way  of 
Columbia  river,  anticipating  his  arrival  here  considerably  in  my  advance.  As  he  has  not  arrived, 
I  am  stripped  of  the  means  of  making  a  report  to  you  of  the  several  reconnaissances  conducted 
under  your  direction,  other  than  such  general  reports  as  I  can  make  from  recollection  of  the  country 
traversed,  and  of  impressions  at  the  time. 

A  previous  reconnoitring  tour  had  enabled  me  to  determine  a  very  favorable  railway  route  from 
the  departure  from  Milk  River  valley,  crossing  Marias  river,  passing  north  of  the  "Knees,"  and, 
with  admirable  facilities,  continuing  along  the  high  prairie  neighboring  on  the  Teton  river.  This 
location  of  the  line  through  this  section  essentially  coincides  with  the  result  of  Mr.  Lander's 
reconnaissance. 

I  parted  company  with  you  on  Monday,  the  19th  of  September,  with  instructions  to  proceed 
up  Sun  river  to  such  a  point  as  should  connect  its  valley  with  the  previously  determined  favorable 
railway  line,  and  then  to  join  you  at  Dearborn  river,  or  to  overtake  you  should  you  first  reach  that 
point. 

I  continued  up  Sun  River  valley  to  the  forks  of  the  river.  In  this  vicinity,  and  leaving 
altogether  the  broken  ground  which  the  train  passed  over  after  leaving  Sun  river,  I  found  the 
desired  facilities  for  connecting  the  railway  line  with  the  line  east.  Sun  river  continues  to  have  a 
broad  and  open  valley,  and  near  the  forks,  where  I  propose  the  crossing  of  the  valley,  the  country 
slopes  off  gradually  from  either  side  of  the  stream,  and  affords  a  fine  opportunity  for  an  easy 
passage  of  the  river,  and  for  making  ground  in  the  approaches  to  the  mountain  pass  alreadj'  near 
by.  The  passage  of  the  railway  line  here  brings  it  into  favorable  position  with  reference  to  the 
ascent  to  the  pass.  The  high,  smooth  plain  south  of  the  south  fork  of  Sun  river,  which  the  line 
35  / 


274  FROM    BLACKFOOT    TRAIL    TO   CLARIS   FORK. 

here  attains,  has  an  elevation  of  about  4,500  feet,  and,  as  near  as  I  can  judge  at  this  time  without 
my  notes,  about  fifteen  miles  distant  from  the  pass.  The  entrance  has  an  elevation  of  about 
5,000  feet,  leaving  to  be  gained  of  ascent  only  five  hundred  feet ;  so  that,  were  it  possible  to 
unite  the  pass  with  this  plain  by  a  continuous  grade,  the  approach  would  be  remarkably  easy. 
Between  us,  however,  and  the  pass,  flow  the  tributaries  of  Beaver  creek,  cutting  the  ground  in 
deep  ravines,  and  preventing  a  regular  gradation  for  the  interval  remaining  to  the  pass.  The  best 
approach  which,  with  my  present  knowledge,  I  feel  justified  in  declaring  practicable,  is  with  about 
eight  miles  of  sixty  feet  grade,  tunnelling  the  summit  in  the  ravine  to  the  right  and  to  the  north  of 
the  trail,  thus  shortening  the  tunnelling  distance,  and  perforating  the  mountain  at  about  the  eleva 
tion  of  5,000  feet,  and  with  a  length  which  I  estimate  at  four  and  one-quarter  miles.  In  making 
the  eastern  approach,  the  line  must  not  drop  down  into  the  valley  of  Dearborn  river.  The  west 
ern  descent,  with  a  tunnel  of  four  and  one-quarter  miles,  can  probably  be  accomplished  with  a 
forty-  foot  grade.  I  ought  to  have  spent  more  time  on  this  summit,  but  having  been  separated 
from  my  party,  and  being  without  food,  and  supposing  that  your  careful  examination  would  render 
it  unnecessary,  I  hastened  down  the  valley  to  overtake  the  parties  ahead,  joining  you  the  next 
day,  after  making  the  passage  of  the  summit — Saturday,  September  24.  I  may  state  here  that  an 
observation  made  by  Wilson  while  on  the  summit,  gives  as  its  height  5,537  feet — a  result  much 
lower  than  that  given  by  the  barometer  at  the  time  of  your  passage  of  the  divide.  It  is  not 
unlikely  that  the  true  height  is  between  these  two  results. 

On  Monday,  the  26th  of  September,  I  again  left  you,  with  instruction  to  take  a  trail  connecting 
the  valley  of  Black  foot  and  Jocko  rivers,  and  note  its  practicability  as  a  railway  route.  The 
information  which  had  been  obtained  from  the  guide  Antoine  was,  that  there  was  a  good  trail 
connecting  these  valleys,  and  that  there  was  no  connecting  trail  leading  to  any  other  locality.  I 
found  no  trail  until  early  on  the  day  after  leaving  you.  My  barometer,  from  leakage,  became 
useless  that  same  night;  and  from  having  been  led  astray  by  the  trail  which  I  followed,  and 
having  now  before  me  no  record  of  my  notes,  I  feel  able  to  give  little  reliable  information  as  to  this 
region.  My  trail,  however,  finally  led  me  into  a  fine,  wide  valley,  walled  in  on  either  side  by 
high  mountains  of  singular  boldness  and  beauty,  which  I  descended,  until  soon  I  got  so  far  into 
the  valley  that  there  was  no  getting  out  of  it,  and  my  only  chance  was  to  go  ahead,  which  I  did 
for  several  days,  the  valley  continuing  to  retain  its  wide  and  favorable  character,  until,  by  the 
guidance  of  some  Kootenaies  Indians  whom  I  fell  in  with,  I  was  led  to  a  trail  which  forked  from 
the  valley  trail,  and  passed  over  the  mountains  to  the  left  or  the  southwest  side.  My  animals 
had  become  very  tired  from  working  through  fallen  timber,  missing  the  trail,  &c.,  and  more 
especially  as  the  valley  was  wooded  and  furnished  a  scanty  supply  of  grass;  and  before  attempt 
ing  the  mountain  trail  I  halted  for  a  day  of  rest,  on  Sunday,  the  second  day  of  October.  The 
mountain  trail  consumed  a  day  and  a  half  or  near  two  days  before  I  struck  into  the  plains  on  the 
southwest  side — a  wide,  open  prairie  valley,  in  which  is  a  small  trading-house  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  and  which  valley  is  very  near  to,  or  is  connected  with,  Clark's  fork.  Jocko  river 
is  separated  from  the  valley  by  only  a  small  ridge ;  and  on  the  fifth  of  October,  at  night,  I 
encamped  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  your  last  camp  on  the  same  river  a  few  days  after.  The 
valley,  which  I  followed  for  several  days  between  the  mountain  ridges,  appeared  to  reach  into 
Flathead  lake.  It  is  wooded,  and  has  growing  in  it  a  great  deal  of  straight  and  valuable  pine 
timber ;  has  a  great  deal  of  gravel  plain ;  and  were  it  not  that  I  conceive  it  to  be  too  much  out  of 
the  way,  running  too  far  north,  it  would  make  an  admirable  link  in  our  railway  line;  its  magnetic 
course  is  about  north  45°  west.  Between  this  and  the  Jocko  river  there  is  another  river,  and  the 
view  of  its  valley  which  we  had  from  near  the  small  trading-post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
is  very  prepossessing.  It  is  open  and  grassed;  wide,  with  a  gradual  rise. 

The  summit  of  the  stream  which  I  followed  into  the  mountains  is  also  the  summit  of  another 

stre-     ,  which  is  probably  the   one  that  came  out  at  the  trading-post,  or  else  may  be  the  Jocko 

If  it  should  prove  to  be  the  former,  it  is  probable  that  there  is  a  highly  favorable  line  of 


FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    WALLAH-WALLAH.  275 

connexion  through  here  from  Blackfoot  river  to  Clark's  fork,  promising  better  than  the  Jocko 
river.  This  summit  I  estimated  could  be  easily  attained,  with  a  forty-foot  grade,  from  the  large 
plain  where  we  encamped  on  Sunday,  25th  September.  It  is  not  a  ridge,  but  a  flat,  or  almost  a 
flat,  with  a  sluggish  beaver-dammed  brook  running  through  it,  sometimes  almost  motionless.  It 
is  very  likely  that  the  trail  forked  here ;  but  although  I  searched  for  it  for  a  considerable  time, 
I  could  discern  no  crossing  of  the  stream,  and  no  certain  indication  that  there  was  a  division  of 
the  trail. 

The  approach  to  this  summit  is  so  easy,  that  I  am  encouraged  to  believe  that  a  railroad  line 
will  be  obtained  here  which  shall  avoid  the  difficulties  near  Hell  Gate,  and  the  summit  between 
St.  Mary's  and  Jocko  river. 

I  regret  that  I  am  not  able  to  speak  more  positively  on  this  matter.  The  route  which  I  really 
followed  I  considered  to  be  every  way  practicable,  but  I  think  it  goes  altogether  too  far  north, 
and  that  it  leads  to  Flathead  lake,  although  of  this  I  am  not  certain.  It  may  be  worthy  of 
remark  that,  in  crossing  over  the  mountains  towards  the  British  trading  posts,  there  was  a  vast 
amount  of  the  finest  limestone  suitable  for  building,  and  lying  in  large  square  blocks,  and 

stratified. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  W.  TINKHAM. 

Lieutenant  DONELSON, 

Corps  of  Engineers,  Olympia,  Washington  Territory. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  MR.  F.  W.  LANDER'S  REPORT  OF  FEBRUARY  15,  1854,  TO  GOVERNOR  STEVENS, 
GIVING  THE  RESULTS  OF  PERSONAL  EXAMINATIONS,  IN  CONNEXION  WITH  THE  RAILROAD  SURVEY 
OF  LIEUTENANT  DONELSON  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  WALLAH-WALLAH. 

My  own  examinations  extend  through  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass,  and  were  abandoned  at  a  point 
seven  and  a  half  miles  west  of  the  summit  of  the  pass. 

From  the  rapid  descent  from  this  pass  towards  the  west,  I  was  led  to  give  my  attention  wholly 
to  the  line  extending  west  from  Cadotte's  Pass.  My  examinations  upon  the  line  of  Cadotte's 
Pass  commenced  at  a  point  sixty  miles  west  of  the  summit.  (Mr.  Lander's  route  was  in  fact 
along  the  valley  of  Hell  Gate  river.) 

The  ascent  to  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass  can  be  made  at  forty  (40)  feet  per  mile.  The  minimum 
curvature  adopted  in  the  approach  is  of  fifteen  hundred  (1,500)  feet  radius.  The  tunnel  is  two 
and  three-fifths  miles  in  length.  Grades  should  descend  from  the  eastern  orifice  of  the  tunnel 
towards  the  west,  in  order  to  reduce  inclination. 

The  grade  in  descent  towards  the  west  is  forty  (40)  feet  per  mile  for  about  seven  and  a  half 
miles;  minimum  curvature,  fifteen  hundred  (1,500)  feet  radius;  from  the  point  seven  and  a  half 
miles  west  by  the  present  reconnaissance,  a  steeper  inclination  must  be  adopted.  I  am  of  the 
belief  that  gradients  of  fifty  (50)  feet  per  mile  can  be  secured. 

My  own  examinations  have  been  upon  a  line  through  the  valley  of  the  Blackfoot  fork  [Hell 
Gate  river]  and  Bitter  Root  river,  and  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  passing  south  of  Lake  Pend 
d'Oreille  to  the  lower  extremity  of  that  lake,  and  thence  in  a  southwesterly  direction  to  the  Great 
Plain  of  the  Spokane,  thence  by  the  northern  bank  of  the  Peluse  to  the  northern  branch  of  the 
Snake,  thence  to  the  Columbia.  (Mr.  Lander's  route  left  the  Blackfoot  river  some  distance 
down  the  trail,  crossed  the  mountain  spurs  to  the  south  into  the  valley  of  Hell  Gate  river,  and 
then  followed  that  river  down.  The  railroad  practicability,  therefore,  of  which  he  speaks,  is  of  a 
portion  of  the  Hell  Gate,  and  not  of  the  Blackfoot  trail.  Hence,  whenever  Mr.  Lander  speaks  of 
the  Blackfoot  trail,  he  must  be  understood  as  really  describing  the  Hell  Gate  valley;  and  Hell 
Gate  will  accordingly  be  substituted  in  brackets  for  Blackfoot.) 

From   the  point  where  rny  own  examinations  commence,  the  general  descent  of  the  Blackfoot 


276  LINE   OF   THE   MARIAS   PASS. 

[Hell  Gate]  valley  does  not  exceed  forty  (40)  feet  per  mile.  The  width  of  the  valley  is  such 
that,  by  using  curvature  of  twelve  hundred  (1,200)  feet  radius,  at  a  few  sudden  changes  of  di 
rection,  the  line  need  not  make  crossings  of  the  stream;  or  should  larger  radii  seem  preferable, 
the  character  of  the  route  may  still  be  preserved,  the  river  crossed  at  right  angles  to  the  current, 
and  a  reasonable  length  of  straight  line  secured  between  the  changes.  The  cost  of  all  the  bridg 
ing  upon  the  division  will  be  excessive,  from  the  scarcity  of  the  proper  material  for  masonry,  the 
basaltic  rock  of  the  section  being  unfit  for  such  structures. 

Should  the  line  keep  the  northern  bank  of  the  river,  an  embankment  formed  of  rock  and  earth 
by  borrowing  would  avoid  many  deep  ledge  cuttings,  and  could  be  protected  from  the  danger  of 
sudden  freshets  by  placing  the  weightier  material  upon  the  outer  slope.  For  a  portion  of  the 
distance  through  this  valley,  however,  it  will  be  necessary  to  make  several  crossings  of  the 
stream  at  high  cost.  The  general  grade  down  the  Blackfoot  [Hell  Gate]  fork  of  forty  (40)  feet 
per  mile  will  probably  be  broken  by  the  severe  work,  and  lead  to  the  location  of  steeper 
inclinations. 

The  descent  of  the  Bitter  Root  is  very  severe.  The  general  grade  of  the  river  valley  for  that 
distance  is  not  great,  but  the  changes  in  level  are  abrupt;  the  valley  extremely  narrow  and 
crooked;  sharp  curvature  and  steep  gradients  will  be  needed  under  any  system  of  location,  and, 
by  the  best  mode  of  conquering  these  difficulties,  the  line  will  be  extreme  in  cost  and  nearly 
impracticable. 

Many  crossings  of  the  stream  are  made;  deep  rock-cuttings  occur,  and  all  embankments  must 
be  thoroughly  sustained  against  the  effects  of  the  rapid  current  and  the  danger  of  sudden  freshets. 

From  the  junction  of  the  Bitter  Root  and  Clark's  fork  to  the  crossing  of  Clark's  fork,  below 
Lake  Pend  d'Oreille,  the  line  assumes  a  more  favorable  character,  and  although  still  severe,  may 
be  readily  adjusted  to  reasonable  rate  of  curvature  and  grade.  The  crossing  of  the  summit 
section  between  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille  and  the  valley  of  the  Spokane  is  very  favorable,  and  can  be 
made  upon  gradients  of  forty  (40)  feet  per  mile. 

All  great  difficulties  of  location  upon  the  route,  as  delineated  upon  the  sketch,  cease  at  the 
valley  of  the  Spokane,  and  choice  can  be  made  of  several  practicable  lines  to  the  great  valley  of 
the  Columbia. 


19.  REPORT  OF  MR.  A.  w.  TINKHAM,  ASSISTANT  ENGINEER,  AS  TO  THE  RAILROAD  PRACTICABILITY 

OF    THE    LINE  OF  THE   MARIAS   PASS  OF  THE    NORTHERN  LIT.TLE   BLACKFOOT  TRAIL,  AND  OF  THE 

SOUTHERN  NEZ   PERCES   TRAIL. 

• 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  July  19,  1854. 

SIR:  On  the  7th  of  October,  1853,  in  the  valley  of  the  St.  Mary's  river,  I  received  from  you 
instructions  to  examine  Marias  Pass,  to  return  to  Fort  Benton,  and  again  from  that  post  to  travel 
westward,  crossing  the  Rocky  mountains  by  such  pass  as  shall  be  expedient,  and  the  Bitter  Root 
mountain  by  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail,  to  Wallah-Wallah. 

Three  days  later,  having  rested  my  animals,  I  left  the  last  camping  ground  made  by  Lieuten 
ant  Donelson  with  the  main  train  on  Jocko  river,  and  travelling  northwardly,  followed  Jocko 
river  to  its  mouth,  and  then  journeyed  up  the  valley  of  Flathead  river.  Until  near  Flathead 
lake,  the  valley  of  this  river  continues  wide,  grand,  and  bordered  by  partially-wooded  hills. 
Most  of  this  land  is  capable  of  occupation  and  settlement.  The  river  is  a  fine,  clear  stream,  one 
hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  occasionally  fordable,  swift  current,  and  is  esti 
mated  to  have  a  descent  of  about  ten  feet  per  mile.  About  ten  miles  before  reaching  Flathead 
lake  we  leave  the  river  and  pass  out  of  sight  of  it,  and  its  issue  from  the  lake  could  not  be  ascer 
tained.  The  trail  wound  around  the  western  shore  of  the  lake.  Its  edge  curves  sharply  and 
often,  winding  around  the  woody  and  rocky  hills  rising  from  the  waters.  The  lake  itself  is  a 
sheet  of  water  of  great  beauty,  some  twenty-five  miles  long,  and  six  or  eight  broad  ;  is  adorned 


LINE   OF   THE   MARIAS   PASS.  277 

with  a  number  of  picturesque  islands  rising  some  three  hundred  feet  above  the  water ;  and  on  its 
west  and  east  sides  is  shut  in  by  dark  wooded  hills,  or,  on  the  east,  more  properly  mountains. 
The  east  side  has  not  been  explored.  Its  exploration  is  desirable  to  show  the  entrance  and  issue 
of  Flathead  river,  its  character  as  a  travelling  or  railroad  route,  and  to  ascertain  which  rivers 
enter  it  from  the  mountains  from  the  east,  indicating  if  there  exist  any  chances  of  passage  of  the 
mountains  from  the  head  of  the  Teton  and  southern  branches  of  the  Marias  to  the  valley  in  which 
is  Flathead  lake.  At  the  foot  of  the  lake  is  a  small  green  prairie  of  good  soil — a  dark  soil,  with 
mingled  fragments  of  trap-rock  and  gravel.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  lake  is  a  comparatively 
level  and  considerably  extensive  district,  inviting  settlement.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
lake  it  is  prairie;  further  from  the  lake  it  is  diversified  with  woodland  and  prairie.  Its  limits  are 
not  known;  it  is  six  miles  or  more  in  width  near  the  lake,  and  is  apparently  as  much  as  twenty 
miles  in  its  greatest  width.  The  limit  to  its  length  was  not  seen.  It  appeared  to  extend  in  a  north 
west  direction  for  upwards  of  twenty  miles.  A  brook,  forty  feet  wide  and  one  foot  deep,  a  tribu 
tary  to  Flathead  river,  flows  through  it.  The  general  valley  of  Flathead  river  and  lake,  in 
cluding  the  valley  where  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  small  trading  post  is,  I  consider  as  one 
of  the  most  desirable  for  settlement,  having  much  fertile  soil  and  wooded  lands,  with  all  the  other 
desirabilities  of  good  wood  and  timber,  pure  water  and  air,  and  agreeable  locations.  Residences 
on  the  lake  will  be  most  agreeably  situated,  for  attractive  scenery  and  advantages  of  water  com 
munication  are  of  considerable  extent.  The  river  abounds  with  fish,  mostly  salmon  and  trout, 
and  the  lake  is  probably  also  well  supplied  with  them.  The  hills  which  border  the  western 
side  of  the  valley  of  Flathead  river  apparently  retire  at  the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  and  the  only 
place  promising  an  opportunity  to  pass  from  the  valley  directly  westward  is  at  the  open  spot, 
northward  of  the  lake,  described  above.  A  few  miles  north  of  the  lake  we  again  fall  into  Flat- 
head  river.  This  river  is  ascended  to  its  forks,  about  forty-two  miles  above  the  lake,  and  the  trail 
then  follows  up  the  most  eastern  fork.  At  twenty-eight  miles  from  the  lake  the  wooded  mountains 
close  in  upon  the  river  and  trail.  To  this  point  the  valley  continues  wide  and  open,  with  a  slight 
fall  towards  Flathead  lake,  and  the  river  for  this  distance  is  very  similar  to  what  it  was  when 
first  seen.  Here  it  was  one  hundred  yards  wide,  two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  clear,  pebbly  bottom, 
banks  sixty  feet  high.  After  first  closing  upon  the  river,  the  mountains  again  retire,  and  there  is 
a  further  nearly  level,  though  wooded,  basin  for  some  fourteen  miles.  At  the  upper  end  of  the 
basin  the  river  forks — one  fork  coming  from  the  northward  through  a  straight  and  promising 
valley,  and  one  from  the  east.  On  this  route  is  the  trail  leading  to  Marias  Pass.  There  is  very 
likely  a  trail  up  the  other.  Beyond  the  fork  the  stream  is  walled  in  by  high  precipitous  mountains, 
whose  gray,  naked  peaks,  in  bold  relief,  rise  from  dark  masses  of  fir  and  pine  below  them.  The 
valley  is  narrow  and  always  wooded ;  the  trail  is  sometimes  laborious  and  difficult,  and  grass  for 
camping  is  always  scarce,  and  so  continues  until  the  summit  is  passed.  The  divide  of  the  Rocky 
mountains  at  Marias  Pass  is  seventy-eight  miles  from  the  head  of  Flathead  lake.  In  the  last 
seventeen  miles  the  valley  rises  rapidly;  several  small  falls — one  of  about  one  hundred  and  forty 
feet  rise — break  the  flow  of  the  stream,  gradually  losing  its  tributaries  and  its  volume ;  and 
besides  the  comparatively  narrow  ridge  with  which  the  valley  abruptly  terminates  in  the  seven 
teen  miles,  the  ascent  is  2,170  feet ;  the  divide  at  its  lowest  point  is  still  2,150  feet  higher,  and  is 
7,600  feet  above  the  sea.  A  bare,  rocky,  circular  ridge  closes  the  valley,  over  which  the  trail 
crooks  and  winds,  and  is  often  just  wide  enough  for  the  feet  of  the  horse.  It  is  wholly  impracti 
cable  as  a  wagon  pass.  The  passage  of  the  summit  was  made  on  the  20th  October ;  the  air 
was  chilly  and  the  snow  flying.  To  this  time  we  had  enjoyed  fine,  clear  autumnal  weather;  as 
we  rose  in  the  valley,  getting  frost,  and  finally  ice,  in  the  night.  Dropping  down  some  2,000  feet 
into  the  valley  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  divide,  where  heads  one  of  the  tributaries  of  Marias 
river,  we  passed  those  small  lakes  or  ponds,  clear  and  cold,  on  whose  shaded  borders  the  snow 
banks  of  the  previous  winter  were  still  resting.  The  contrasts  in  the  growth  of  the  trees  on  the 
west  and  east  sides  of  the  mountains  are  very  noticeable.  On  the  west  the  trees  continue  large 


278  LINE   OF   THE   MARIAS    PASS. 

and  thrifty  almost  to  the  summit.  On  the  east,  what  little  growth  there  is  consists  of  short, 
scrubby  pines,  only  suitable  for  fuel.  On  one  of  the  snow-bordered  ponds  we  camped. 

Before  the  close  of  the  day  the  snow  was  gathering  on  the  ground,  and  continued  falling  until 
next  day.  When  at  a  distance  of  only  about  a  dozen  miles  from  the  summit  we  made  the  prairies, 
covered  with  some  four  inches  of  snow. 

Smooth,  dry  prairie  extends  hence  to  Fort  Benton ;  in  traversing  which  to  that  post,  we  cross 
the  tributaries  of  Marias  and  Teton  rivers.  This  prairie  is  very  sparingly  supplied  either  with 
water  or  wood,  but  the  soil  appeared  to  be  of  fair  quality,  and,  near  the  mountains,  very  good. 
The  distance  from  the  summit  to  Fort  Benton  is  estimated  at  136  miles,  and  the  week  spent  in 
accomplishing  this  distance  was  a  time  of  excessive  cold,  severe  for  the  latter  part  of  October ; 
and  it  is  probable  that  so  cold  weather  did  not  occur  again  until  considerably  later  in  the  season. 
One  or  two  snow-storms  occurred  during  the  earlier  part  of  the  week,  and  in  two  instances  the 
extreme  cold  reached  as  low  as  3°  above  zero,  Fahrenheit.  The  snow  on  the  prairies  had  a 
greater  depth  of  five  inches,  and  disappeared  altogether  one  day's  journey  out  from  Fort  Benton. 
The  weather  had  not  been  so  cold  there  as  on  the  prairies  to  the  north  and  west. 

On  November  1st  we  left  our  camp  opposite  Fort  Benton  on  our  westward  march  to  St.  Mary's 
village.  After  several  days  of  clear  and  mild  weather,  the  air  had  again  become  cold,  nnd  we 
were  visited  with  another  snow-storm.  For  about  seventy  miles  our  march  lay  along  the  south 
side  of  the  Missouri — sometimes  in  sight  of  it,  and  sometimes  losing  it  for  the  whole  day.  We 
travelled  slowly;  our  animals  were  worn  with  their  previous  work;  and  the  week  spent  in 
making  but  little  more  than  this  distance  was  cold  and  snowy,  the  thermometer  in  one  instance 
ranging  as  low  as  3°  above  zero,  and  the  snow  once  becoming  as  deep  as  eight  inches.  The  air 
was  often  thick  with  snow,  so  that  I  could  get  but  very  limited  and  imperfect  views  of  the  coun 
try;  and  though  passing  within  hearing  of  the  Falls  of  the  Missouri,  I  could  get  no  view  of  them. 
Game  was  generally  plenty.  A  few  buffalo,  and  a  good  many  elk  and  deer,  were  feeding  on  the 
prairie.  The  air  resounded  with  the  cries  of  the  continually-passing  flocks  of  swan,  geese,  and 
ducks;  and  near  our  different  camps  great  quantities  of  these  fowl  would  be  found  on  the  river, 
swimming  among  the  floating  ice  moving  down  with  the  current.  The  ground  was  a  good  deal 
broken  with  coulees  in  the  first  half  of  the  distance  named,  but  above  the  falls  marked  changes 
occur  in  the  valley  of  the  Missouri ;  the  river  no  longer  flows  in  a  deep  channel,  whose  banks  are 
again  cut  with  deep  coulees,  but  the  river  appears  raised  more  nearly  to  the  level  of  the  surround 
ing  country,  and,  in  place  of  the  bluffs,  broken  with  coulees,  grassed,  and  more  or  less  irregular 
slopes,  from  which  the  trap  for  the  first  time  is  beginning  to  show  itself,  reach  down  to  the 
river's  edge.  For  most  of  the  above  distance  the  soil  is  good,  often  rich  and  black  in  the  valleys. 

At  the  end  of  the  seventy  miles,  the  traps,  rock  hills,  and  precipices  crowd  upon  the  river,  and 
it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we  could  get  along  in  its  vicinity.  Here,  I  judge,  is  the  so- 
called  "  Gate  of  the  Mountains."  I  may  here  say  that,  immediately  prior  to  our  leaving  Fort 
Benton,  the  disposition  of  the  Blackfeet  to  waylay  and  murder  our  Pend  d'Oreille  guide  had  led 
to  a  change  in  our  intended  route ;  and  then,  finally,  the  floating  ice  in  the  Missouri  made  the 
fording  of  the  stream  dangerous,  so  that  our  guide  did  not  think  it  safe  to  'follow  the  usual  and 
best  route.  In  this  way  we  got  forced  in  among  the  turbulent  mass  of  irregular  and  rocky  hills, 
through  which,  for  over  twenty  miles,  lay  our  travelled  route,  the  river  winds  its  way ;  and 
where  almost  perpendicular  precipices,  obtruding  at  frequent  intervals  into  the  river's  edge, 
make  it  impossible  to  travel  along  its  banks.  These  hills  are  partially  wooded  with  the  pines. 
The  principal  difficulty  in  reaching  the  Little  Blackfoot  Pass  is  in  getting  through  this  broken 
region  of  country.  A  wagon  route,  I  think,  will  be  obtained  here ;  probably  there  already  exists 
a  good  trail — the  continuation  of  a  trail  which  we  followed  for  some  distance  above  the  falls,  and 
on  which  we  probably  should  have  continued,  had  not  the  ice  with  the  high  water  prevented 
our  making  the  passage  in  the  usual  place.  Of  this  matter  I  cannot  speak  positively,  not  always 
rightly  interpreting  the  signs  of  my  Indian  guide. 


LINE   OF   THE   MARIAS   PASS.  279 

An  interval  of  only  about  thirty-three  miles  lies  between  the  broken,  volcanic  country  resting 
on  the  Missouri  and  the  summit  of  the  pass  by  which  I  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountain  divide, 
entering  the  valley  of  a  fork  of  Hell  Gate  river — termed  by  Lieutenant  Mullan  Little  Blackfoot 
river.  We  were  little  troubled  either  with  snow  or  cold  after  getting  within  forty  miles  of  the 
summit  of  the  mountains,  the  thermometer  never  ranging  lower  than  20°  above  zero,  and  generally 
much  higher.  The  exact  configuration  of  the  pass  I  have  given  in  my  general  railroad  report.  On 
the  10th  of  November  I  passed  over,  in  company  with  a  large  troop  of  Pend  d'Oreille  Indians 
returning  from  the  buffalo  hunt.  The  ridge  which  constitutes  the  divide  is  a  mere  hill,  up  which, 
on  the  eastern  side,  loaded  wagons  can  be  drawn  without  serious  difficulty ;  and  the  descent  on 
the  western  slope  is  very  gradual,  and,  for  a  wagon-road,  all  that  is  desirable.  An  inch  or  two  of 
snow  lay  on  the  ground  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  hill,  and  what  little  was  on  the  summit  was 
whirled  into  small  heaps  and  drifts. 

Following  down  the  valley  to  its  junction  with  Blackfoot  river,  as  I  estimated,  about  ninety- 
five  miles  from  the  summit,  (much  too  small  an  estimate,  according  to  Lieutenant  Mullan's 
odometer  measurement,)  the  valley  is  unusually  favorable  either  for  a  wagon  route  or  a  railway. 
From  the  running  water  at  the  foot  of  the  divide  to  Hell  Gate,  the  valley,  according  to  my 
estimated  distances,  has  an  average  descent  of  twenty-two  and  a  half  feet  per  mile,  (undoubtedly 
greater  than  the  actual  fall  by  several  feet  per  mile,)  is  generally  wider  than  Blackfoot  River 
valley,  is  generally  unobstructed  by  the  woods ;  and,  although  the  present  trail  in  several 
instances  for  a  few  miles  is  steep  and  difficult  when  forced  to  the  hill-side  by  the  river,  all  these 
difficulties  could  be  removed  with  a  small  amount  of  labor,  or  apparently  avoided  without 
labor  sometimes,  by  taking  the  bed  of  the  river  for  a  short  distance,  (the  river  has  a  general 
depth  of  near  three  feet,)  or  by  making  river  crossings. 

The  greater  portion  of  this  valley  is  a  desirable  region  for  settlement.  The  soil  is  often 
gravelly,  as  is  the  soil  in  St.  Mary's  valley,  but  it  is  fertile,  and  there  are  many  agreeable  and 
promising  locations  for  farming,  where  a  good  soil,  plenty  of  good  wood  sufficiently  near  for 
lumbering  or  fuel,  pure  cool  water,  good  grazing,  an  agreeable  and  healthy  climate,  and  a 
pleasing  prospect,  are  inducements  not  often  found  united,  and  are  sufficiently  attractive  to 
throng  these  mountain  valleys  at  no  distant  day  with  a  central  population  of  vast  importance, 
making  in  the  heart  of  the  mountains,  and  midway  between  the  Missouri  and  Columbia,  a  central 
depot  of  supplies,  a  distributing  point  of  labor  and  materials,  and  finally  a  region  productive  of 
valuable  exports.  I  do  not  think  there  will  be  any  essential  increase  of  distance  over  the  route 
by  way  of  Blackfoot  river  from  Fort  Benton  to  St.  Mary's. 

I  reachecl  Hell  Gate,  near  the  river  of  Hell  Gate,  and  Blackfoot  river,  on  the  15th  of  Novem 
ber.  In  descending  the  valley  the  weather  was  generally  mild,  but  still  colder  than  what  we 
experienced  for  nearly  a  month  following.  The  mercury  in  one  case  descended  as  low  as  12° 
above  zero,  but  this  was  an  exceptional  case.  We  had  several  short  squalls  of  damp  snow, 
lodging  for  only  a  short  time  on  the  ground,  and  some  little  rain. 

Turning  up  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  on  November  17th  I  rested  at  Lieutenant  Mullan's  winter 
establishment,  in  St.  Mary's  valley,  fourteen  miles  above  Fort  Owen ;  the  weather  mild  and 
pleasant,  and,  during  my  stay  there,  occasionally  rainy  ;  the  grass  good,  and  the  animals  of  the 
expedition,  with  the  multitude  of  horses  and  cattle  owned  by  the  Indians  and  half-breeds,  in 
the  most  thriving  condition. 

On  November  20th,  with  a  fresh  band  of  animals,  and  renewed  outfit  of  provision,  &c.,  I  was 
in  camp,  halting  on  the  Sabbath,  some  nine  or  ten  miles  from  Lieutenant  Mullan,  up  the  valley 
of  St.  Mary's  river — a  mild  moist  day,  raining  gently  most  of  the  day,  with  a  temperature  rising 
to  near  50°  above  zero.  About  twenty-six  miles  from  Lieutenant  Mullan's  winter  post,  and 
some  sixty  miles  above  Hell  Gate,  the  St.  Mary's  forks  to  the  southeast  and  southwest.  Here 
we  left  the  fine  open  valley  characterizing  the  St.  Mary's  river,  and  tracing  up  the  western 
fork,  the  wooded  hills  immediately  closed  in  upon  the  stream  ;  the  valley  narrowed  until  it  was 


280  LINE   OF   THE   MARIAS   PASS. 

not  over  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide ;  patches  of  snow  discovered  themselves,  and  the  air  grew 
chilly.  A  few  miles  farther  the  snow  was  several  inches  deep,  the  streams  were  partially  or  wholly 
frozen  ;  and  when,  on  November  23d,  about  24  miles  up  the  valley  from  where  we  entered  it,  we  left 
the  stream  near  its  source,  there  a  brook  only  twelve  feet  across,  the  snow  was  still  deeper;  and 
a  mile  or  two  farther  on,  as  we  ascended  the  mountain  divide,  whose  western  waters  are  tribu 
tary  to  the  Kooskooskia,  the  snow  was  two  feet,  and  soon  after  two  and  a  half  feet  deep.  The 
passage  of  this  divide  was  very  laborious  ;  is  by  the  trail  some  twenty-five  miles  long,  attaining  a 
summit  elevation  of  7,040  feet,  the  trail  keeping  mostly  on  the  open  hill-tops,  and  with  its  ascent 
and  descent,  and  the  snow,  gave  us  three  days  of  hard  labor,  during  most  of  which  time  our 
animals  had  nothing  to  eat.  The  snow  at  times  wholly  disappeared  from  the  open  southern  hill- 
slopes,  and  had  a  greater  depth  of  three  feet.  Tributaries  of  the  Kooskooskia  are  either  side 
of  this  long  summit  ridge — can  be  discovered  on  either  side.  Their  dark  wooded  valleys, 
making  up  to  the  heads  of  the  streams  of  the  St.  Mary's  fork,  and  a  constructed  road  keeping 
the  wooded  valleys,  would  avoid  the  extreme  elevation  attained  by  the  trail.  The  country  is  not 
promising,  however,  as  a  railway  route;  and  the  Kooskooskia  valley,  the  only  outlet  through  the 
mass  of  mountains  still  intervening  between  this  summit  and  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Spokanes 
and  Nez  Perces,  is  narrow,  dark,  and  shut  in  by  steep  wooded  hills.  There  is  no  good  trail 
down  its  valley.  With  a  precipitous  descent  of  2,000  feet  the  trail  drops  down  to  the  bed  of 
the  Kooskooskia,  which  we  cross  at  a  level  of  3,760  feet  above  the  sea,  and  immediately  turn 
again  to  the  mountain  on  its  opposite  side,  and  wind  up  their  steep  projecting  spurs  and  ridges. 
There  was  no  snow  in  the  valley  of  the  Kooskooskia;  the  stream  was  thirty  to  sixty  feet  wide  and 
two  feet  deep  at  the  crossing.  All  this  country  is  wooded  mainly  with  pines,  firs,  spruces,  and 
hemlocks.  A  few  miles  farther  on  we  again  entered  the  snow,  and  not  over  five  or  six  miles 
from  the  river,  on  the  27th  of  .November,  were  brought  to  a  halt  in  snow  about  four  feet  deep ; 
crossing  the  precipitous  hill  before  us,  after  a  week's  delay  in  fruitless  efforts  to  get  our  animals 
farther,  we  commenced  on  foot  the  balance  of  the  journey,  abandoning  everything  that  could 
not  be  taken  on  our  backs,  and  with  snow-shoes  made  during  the  week's  detention,  and  heavily 
packed,  left  the  camp  in  the  snow  where  our  progress  had  been  so  abruptly  arrested.  The 
elevation  of  this  camp  is  7,250  feet,  (as  measured  on  the  profile.)  During  our  stay  there  the 
snow  increased  in  depth  to  six  feet.  Hence  to  the  water-base  of  the  mountains  is  about  ninety 
miles ;  but  with  our  heavy  packs,  the  very  steep  and  laborious  ascents,  and  our  inferior  snow- 
shoes,  we  were  fourteen  days  making  this  distance  ;  finally,  on  the  17th  of  December,  emerging 
into  the  unwooded  (save  in  the  bottom)  valley  of  the  Clearwater  river,  a  few  miles  above  its  junc 
tion  with  the  Kooskooskia.  The  barometer  was  left  at  the  snow  camp,  and  the  thermometer  was 
lost  soon  after  we  left  there.  I  estimated  at  the  time  that  the  greatest  elevation  attained  was 
something  over  8,000  feet  above  the  sea.  All  of  the  route  lay  over  high  ground,  probably  very 
little  if  any  of  it  so  low  as  3,000  feet,  and  then  rising  as  high  as  8,000  feet.  We  had,  of  course, 
a  great  deal  of  thick,  misty,  and  snowy  weather;  at  one  time,  gaining  a  high  elevation,  thrusting 
our  heads  through  a  chilly  vapor  to  enjoy  the  bright  sun,  while  the  mountains  and  valleys  below 
us  were  buried  under  a  sea  of  cloud.  The  views  which  I  did  gain  discovered  mountains  of 
remarkable  sameness,  most  of  them  wooded  nearly  or  quite  to  their  summits;  no  sharply-obtruding 
peaks ;  few  with  their  gray -brown  ridges  breaking  the  monotonous  evenness  of  dark,  rounded 
summits,  and  no  open  valleys,  pleasant  lakes,  or  mountain  prairies,  such  as  distinguish  the  main 
range  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  In  several  instances  the  trail  descended  to  the  valleys  of  the 
small  streams,  and  in  all  these  instances  the  snow  disappeared. 

With  a  single  exception — a  sharp,  exposed  and  elevated  ridge,  where  the  wind  had  drifted  the 
snow  until  it  was  piled  to  the  depth  of  probably  ten  feet — I  found  the  snow  nowhere  deeper  than 
at  the  camps  where  commenced  the  snow-shoeing  and  packing;  it  rarely  exceeded  three  feet  in 
depth,  and  in  places  there  was  more.  The  average  depth  for  the  whole  mountain  portion  of  the 
trail,  from  the  head  of  St.  Mary's  fork  to  the  western  edge  of  the  mountains,  about  120  miles, 


LINE   OP   THE    MARIAS    PASS.  281 

would  be  less  than  two  feet.  In  this  elevated  route,  with  the  depth  of  the  snow,  there  was  a  very 
remarkable  and  unexpected  mildness  of  temperature.  The  temperature  was  never  quite  so  low 
as  the  extreme  endured  on  the  prairies,  and  the  weather  was  occasionally  warm.  The  snow, 
as  a  mass,  was  damp,  and  generally  more  or  less  incrusted.  Several  small  falls  of  snow  occurred 
during  the  passage,  and  the  trees  and  bushes  were  always  heavily  loaded  with  snow.  There 
was  but  little  high  wind,  and  generally  it  was  nearly  calm,  and,  as  I  have  already  said,  the  air 
was  for  most  of  the  time  thick  and  misty. 

A  few  miles  from  the  mountains  I  found  the  Nez  Perces  Indians — remaining  with  them  nearly 
a  week.  Their  horses  and  cattle,  with  some  young  calves,  were  grazing  in  the  river  valley  and 
slopes.  The  short  grass  of  the  river  bottom  was  still  bright  and  green.  In  the  small  gardens  of 
the  Indians,  pea-vines,  started  from  the  seed  of  the  summer  crop,  were  several  inches  high,  and 
the  whole  appearance  of  the  valley  was  in  contrast  with  the  cold  and  snow  of  the  mountains. 
A  slight  fall  of  snow  occurred  while  1  was  there. 

On  the  30th  day  of  December  I  reached  Wallah-Wallah.  The  wooded  country  ends  with 
the  mountains,  and  then  commences  the  great  plain  known  farther  north  and  west  as  the  great 
Spokane  Plain,  and  through  which,  in  deep  channels,  flow  the  Clearwater,  Snake,  and  Wallah- 
Wallah  rivers,  and  other  and  smaller  streams.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  good  land  along  the 
whole  route  through  this  section.  The  bottom  lands  of  the  Clearwater  were  to  some  extent  culti 
vated  by  the  Indians,  and  looked  fertile — a  dark,  gravelly  soil.  Their  corn  was  of  good  size  and 
heavy;  wheat  of  good  weight.  Cora,  wheat,  peas,  potatoes,  and  melons,  are  produced  by  the 
Indians.  The  upland  plains,  where  I  traversed  them,  showed  a  good  dark  soil,  exposing 
fragments  of  trap-rock,  and  were  generally  clothed  with  good  grass,  on  which  were  feeding 
large  bands  of  Indian  horses.  Mr.  Craig,  who  lives  on  the  Lapwai  among  the  Nez  Perces, 
about  forty-five  miles  from  the  mountains,  has  about  eight  acres  of  land  under  tillage,  with 
opportunity  for  extending  his  field  as  he  pleases.  Peas,  corn,  wheat,  squashes,  onions,  potatoes, 
melons,  &c.,  all  thrive  well  here,  and  Mr.  Craig  spoke  favorably  of  the  productiveness  of  the  soil. 
His  field  was  on  the  river  bottom,  while  the  hills  bordering  on  the  river  afforded  excellent  pas 
turage  for  horses,  cattle,  and  goats.  On  the  high  plain  between  the  Clearwater  river  and  his  house 
I  found  eight  inches  of  snow,  lasting  only  for  a  short  distance.  There  was  none  on  the  Lapwai, 
and  none  thence  to  Wallah-Wallah.  The  Clearwater,  Lapwai,  Tokannon,  Touchet,  Wallah- 
Wallah,  with  other  small  streams  tributary  to  Snake  river,  have  a  great  deal  of  fertile,  tillable  land 
upon  them,  which,  at  an  early  day,  will  attract  attention  from  its  farming  qualities.  Most  of  these 
streams  are  scantily  wooded.  The  wild  flax,  of  good  quality,  is  to  be  found  in  all  this  region. 

Leaving  the  Touchet  river  and  approaching  Wallah- Wallah,  we  enter  upon  the  sandy,  wild- 
sage  plain,  in  the  midst  of  which  that  post  is  established.  This  post  I  reached  just  before  New 
Year's  day  of  1854;  the  weather  continuing  mild,  without  snow. 

I  must,  in  conclusion,  gratefully  mention  the  members  of  my  party :  Pearson  and  French,  who, 
from  the  snow-camp,  attempted  to  regain  the  St.  Mary's  valley  with  the  animals,  and,  as  we  have 
since  learned,  succeeded  with  the  loss  of  but  five  ;  and  artificers  Wilson,  Agnew,  and  Brocken,  who, 
with  me,  crossed  the  Bitter  Root  mountain  with  pack  and  snow-shoes,  and  who  maintained  a  steady 
cheerfulness  under  circumstances  of  reasonable  apprehension,  with  unusual  discomfort  and  fatigue 

Our  guide,  Charleer,  a  handsome  Nez  Perces  lad,  showed  himself  to  be  thoroughly  acquainted 
with  the  particular  route  we  travelled,  and  was  very  faithful. 

Much  information  in  the  power  of  a  guide  to  impart  is  lost  when  he  is  such  that  your  only 
means  of  communicating  with  him  are  by  signs.     It  is  always  desirable,  in  similar  explorations, 
to  be  able  to  converse  with  your  guide  directly  or  through  an  interpreter. 
I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  W.  TINKHAM. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  North  Pacific  Railroad  Exploration  Survey. 


282  FROM  MOUTH  OF  CLARK'S  FORK  TO  WALLAH-WALLAH. 

20.  REPORT  OF  DR.  JOHN  EVANS,  OF  HIS  ROUTE  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  THE  LOWER  COLUMBIA. 

[This  paper,  sent  from  Washington  Territory,  where  Dr.  Evans  was  still  employed  in  the  field  when  the  report  of  Governor 
Stevens  was  submitted,  was  lost  on  the  route.] 


21.  REPORT  OF  LIEUTENANT  RICHARD  ARNOLD,  u.  s.  A.,  OF  HIS  ROUTE  FROM  THE  MOUTH  OF 
CLARK'S  FORK,  BY  FORT  COLVILLE,  THE  GRAND  COULEE,  AND  THE  MOUTH  OF  SVAKE  HIVER,  TO 
WALLAH- WALLAH. 

OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  February  5,  1854. 

SIR  :  Jn  compliance  with  your  instructions;  dated  October  23,  1853,  I  have  the  honor  to  sub 
mit  the  following  report,  accompanied  with  a  map  and  profile  of  the  route  travelled  by  the  parly 
under  my  command. 

Hearing  of  your  arrival  and  departure  from  Fort  Colville  with  Captain  McClellan  and  party, 
I  moved  in  advance  of  my  command,  then  encamped  about  twenty  miles  from  the  fort,  to  learn  if 
any  instructions  had  been  left  by  you  that  would  conflict  with  those  previously  given  by  Lieu 
tenant  Donelson,  U.  S.  A.  Receiving  the  above  named,  I  returned  and  marched  my  party  to 
Colville,  encamping  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river,  about  half  a  mile  above  the  fort.  Before 
returning  to  my  camp,  I  despatched  an  express  to  Pend  d'Oreille  mission  with  the  letters,  one  to 
the  reverend  father,  the  other  to  Dr.  Suckley.  The  latter  one,  by  some  inconceivable  mistake, 
returned  to  me,  but  the  other  had  the  desired  effect.  The  day  after  my  arrival  at  the  fort  being 
a  holiday,  1  was  not  able  to  obtain  the  necessary  transportation  for  the  river  trip  until  the  3d  of 
November.  I  then  succeeded  in  hiring  two  canoes  and  four  Indians.  It  was  my  wish  to  com 
mence  a  series  of  barometrical  observations  at  the  49th  parallel,  or  thereabouts,  to  determine  the 
fall  of  the  river  from  that  line  to  the  ocean.  The  want  of  transportation  prevented.  I  then  had 
a  series  of  observations  taken  at  my  camp  near  the  fort.  Leaving  my  camp  at  2  p.  m.  on  the  3d 
of  November,  I  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  river,  taking  one  man  to  run  the  compass  lines  and 
take  topographical  notes  of  the  country.  The  swift  current,  numerous  small  rapids,  and  many 
unforeseen  accidents,  made  the  ascent  very  slow,  but  at  noon  of  the  fourth  day  I  arrived  at  a 
point  about  three  and  a  half  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Clark's  fork.  Here  I  obtained  an  obser 
vation,  the  first  since  my  departure  from  Colville;  this  placed  me  in  latitude  49°  3'  25".9;  thus 
showing  a  material  error  in  the  maps  in  my  possession.  This  observation  having  been  taken 
with  sextant,  may  not  be  absolutely  correct,  but  I  feel  confident  that  all  future  surveys  will  not 
find  it  far  out  of  the  way.  I  then  embarked  and  run  down  with  the  current,  passing  through 
the  rapid  Little  Dalles,  and  arrived  at  my  camp  on  the  8th,  having  been  absent  five  days  and 
ascended  the  river  thirty-five  miles.  The  weather  during  the  entire  trip  was  very  unfavorable. 
The  second  and  third  days  after  my  departure,  the  snow  fell  to  the  depth  of  six  inches,  which 
made  the  travelling  very  uncomfortable,  and  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  I  could  keep 
my  Indians  from  stopping.  The  view  from  Colville  to  Clark's  fork  was  intercepted  by  mountain 
ranges,  whose  tops  and  sides,  covered  with  snow,  presented  a  barren  and  cold  appearance.  The 
remarkable  similarity  and  unbroken  lines  they  present,  with  the  exception  of  the  passes,  through 
which  the  principal  tributaries  flow,  take.n  in  connexion  with  the  country  between  them,  enable 
me  to  take  a  general  view  of  the  entire  trip.  This  narrow  belt  was  level,  with  a  gradual  slope 
to  the  south,  covered  with  timber  and  generally  free  from  rocks.  The  soil  near  the  camps  sand, 
with  some  alluvium.  The  river  in  its  meanderings  divides  it  into  alternate  prairies  from  four  to 
six  miles  in  length,  and  one  to  two  miles  in  width.  The  river  has  a  rapid  current,  and  is  filled  with 
innumerable  small  rapids.  The  rapid  known  as  the  Little  Dalles  is  the  only  one  that  would 
impede  navigation.  A  delay  of  half  an  hour  at  the  upper  extremity  to  repair  canoes,  enabled  me 
to  examine  it.  The  river  at  this  stage  of  the  water  had  contracted  to  the  width  of  about  twenty 
feet ;  the  sides  solid  rock.  The  current  at  this  time  very  rapid,  and  at  the  highest  stage  of  the 


PROM    MOUTH    OP   CLARIS    FORK    TO    WALLAH-WALLAH.  283 

water  it  is  a  perfect  torrent.  I  made  a  portage  along  the  east  bank;  the  trail  was  good  and 
about  half  a  mile  in  length.  Innumerable  eddies  and  whirlpools  are  seen,  which  rendered  the 
navigation  in  canoes  rather  precarious.  The  principal  tributaries  from  the  east,  and  the  only  one 
worthy  of  mention,  was  Clark's  fork.  This  noble  stream  runs  through  a  deep  gorge  in  the  range 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  main  stream,  and  has  two  falls,  one  near  the  gorge  and  one 
at  its  mouth,  and  empties  into  the  Columbia  with  a  roar.  The  fall  near  the  gorge  is  about  three 
feet  in  height ;  that  at  its  mouth  fifteen  feet,  and  not  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
wide.  I  attempted  to  ascend  the  river,  but  after  climbing  over  the  rocks,  was  satisfied  to  obtain 
a  view  of  the  river  where  it  debouches  from  the  range.  If  the  appearance  of  this  pass  is  a  fair 
illustration  of  its  bank  to  the  Pend  d'Oreille  mission,  I  believe  the  various  reports  circulated  at 
Fort  Colville  true ;  to  attempt  to  ascend  with  canoes,  or  move  with  a  pack  train  along  the  banks, 
would  be  impossible. 

The  appearance  of  the  country  along  the  east  bank  of  the  Columbia,  from  the  mouth  of  this  trib 
utary  to  within  a  few  miles  of  Fort  Colville,  convinces  me  that  the  interval  between  these  streams 
is  a  perfect  network  of  mountains.  About  one  mile  north  of  Colville  I  saw  a  large  stream ;  its 
direction,  viewed  from  the  river,  was  nearly  north.  Captain  McClellan  and  party  approached 
the  Columbia  by  its  valley.  There  is  also  another  about  six  miles  north  of  the  Little  Dalles;  this 
is  a  mere  rivulet,  but  at  the  lime  of  high  water  it  is  a  large  and  rapid  stream.  The  main  stream 
above  Clark's  fork  was  much  larger  than  any  tributary — has  a  swifter  current,  and  is  much 
deeper,  but  has  the  same  general  appearance.  A  pack  trail  passes  along  the  next  bank  of  the 
river.  The  mountain  spurs  present  a  great  obstacle  to  a  wagon  road.  Upon  my  return  I  received 
your  letter  of  October  29th,  authorizing  me  to  leave  before  the  arrival  of  Dr.  Suckley,  and  to 
proceed  along  the  east  bank  of  Columbia  to  Fort  Wallah- Wallah,  by  the  Grand  Coulee,  provided 
the  condition  of  the  animals  would  permit.  After  a  careful  inspection,  I  was  convinced  that  they 
required  more  rest.  I  consequently  remained  until  the  13th.  Astronomical  observation  taken  at 
niy  camp,  near  the  fort,  determined  the  latitude  to  be  48°  35'.  I  cannot  forget  to  remember  Mr. 
McDonald  for  the  disinterested  and  efficient  service  rendered  on  every  occasion,  and  the  hospi 
tality  extended  to  myself  and  brother  during  my  sojourn  near  his  pleasant  post.  On  the  eve  of 
starting  on  the  13th,  I  heard  of  the  arrival  of  Dr.  Suckley  and  party  ;  this,  in  addition  to  a  violent 
hail-storm,  induced  me  to  accept  the  polite  invitation  of  Mr.  McDonald,  and  I  quartered  my 
party  at  the  fort.  Finding  the  Doctor  could  procure  the  necessary  transportation  for  the  river  trip, 
I  left  the  fort  at  2  p.  m.  on  the  14th,  and  marched  eight  miles.  Leaving  Colville  the  trail  has  a 
southerly  direction,  and  passes  over  a  well-wooded  rolling  prairie.  A  range  of  hills  were  at  from 
one-fourth  to  half  a  mile  distant  during  the  entire  day;  they  are  from  two  hundred  to  three  hun 
dred  feet  high,  and  covered  with  a  large  growth  of  pine.  The  view  to  the  west  was  intercepted 
by  a  high  range  of  mountains  running  along  the  river  bank ;  the  soil  good,  sand  and  alluvium. 
About  four  miles  from  Colville  I  crossed  a  swift  running  stream,  twenty  feet  wide  and  six  deep. 
This  stream  is  called  Mill  river,  from  the  fact  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  having  a  grist-mill 
near  its  mouth.  The  route  of  the  succeeding  day  was  without  change.  The  hills  have  a  gradual 
rise  to  the  south,  and  the  general  appearance  of  mountains  on  the  opposite  bank  the  same.  Passed 
a  few  lodges  near  the  bank,  and  saw  a  number  across  the  river.  Their  winter  store  of  provision 
consists  of  salmon,  which  were  seen  in  great  abundance  suspended  from  the  limbs  of  trees. 
From  the  camp  of  the  15th  the  country  was  very  undulating.  The  trail  passed  up  hills  and 
through  ravines  for  twenty  miles;  it  then  had  a  gradual  fall  towards  the  upland,  near  Spokane,  and 
passed  through  a  steep  sandy  gorge  to  the  river.  The  country  between  my  line  of  march  and  the 
Columbia,  which  passed  out  of  view  about  four  miles  from  the  trail,  was  very  undulating,  and 
rendered  impassable  by  deep  ravines.  Passed  three  lakes  along  the  trail;  the  largest,  about 
twenty  miles  from  the  last  camp,  was  three  hundred  fest  long  and  one  hundred  wide.  It  had  no 
visible  outlet.  Numerous  small  streams  were  passed  during  the  day  ;  timber  is  still  found  in  great 
abundance.  My  guide  having  gone  in  advance  to  examine  the  river,  found  it  too  high  to  ford. 


284  FROM    MOUTH    OP   CLARIS    FORK   TO    WALLAH- WALL  AH. 

I  then  continued  along  the  hank  until  within  two  miles  of  its  mouth,  where  I  found  a  few  Indians, 
and  encamped.  Estimated  du-tance  travelled  thirty  miles.  The  late  hour  of  camping  delayed 
me  until  noon  on  the  16th,  sending  the  observers  to  continue  the  survey,  which  was  stopped  about 
four  miles  from  camp.  I  rode  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  ;  at  this  point  it  was  two  hundred  feet 
wide  and  very  rocky  :  the  high  bank  to  the  north  has  a  gradual  fall  towards  the  river,  while  to  the 
south  it  recedes,  leaving  a  rocky  flat,  which  is  overflowed  at  the  highest  stage  of  the  water. 
This  stream  flows  far  below  the  banks;  has  a  rapid  current  and  rocky  bed:  the  banks  were 
covered  with  fine  timber,  and  the  soil  appeared  excellent.  After  the  Indians  had  crossed  my 
party,  I  gave  them  about  two  feet  of  tobacco  each,  and  they  appeared  well  satisfied.  They 
belonged  to  the  Spokanes,  and  fully  supported  the  good  opinion  I  had  previously  formed  of  the 
tribe.  The  rest  of  the  tribe  were  encamped  farther  up  the  river.  From  this  point  the  trail  passed 
along  the  bank,  which  was  very  steep,  tor  a  distance  of  four  or  five  miles.  At  this  height  I  saw 
the  gorge  through  which  the  Columbia  runs,  and  was  able  to  connect  the  work  of  the  previous 
day.  The  western  bank  still  presents  a  barren  appearance,  and  the  range  rises  to  the  height  of 
1,000  feet.  The  trail  then  passed  down  the  bank  and  continued  along  the  river.  I  encamped 
near  the  Great  Bend.  The  height  to  the  south  of  Spokane  is  on  a  level  with  the  Grand  Plain, 
and  although  very  undulating,  may  be  regarded  the  same.  From  this  camp  I  had  a  fine  view  of 
the  terraces  seen  along  the  Columbia  ;  they  form  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Grand  Plain.  The 
night  was  pleasant,  but  a  heavy  mist  along  the  banks  prevented  my  taking  any  observations.  The 
principal  rocks  seen  since  leaving  Spokane  are  basalt,  trap,  and  granite.  Neatly  opposite  this 
camp  the  mountain  range  recedes,  leaving  a  narrow  strip  about  sixty  feet  above  the  river  and  ten 
miles  in  length. 

Soon  after  leaving  camp  the  Hudson's  Bay  trail  passes  to  the  south,  and  after  a  steep  ascent  it 
arrives  on  the  Grand  Plain  ;  continuing  over  this,  it  enters  the  second  coulee  in  size,  (as  seen 
along  my  route.)  This  is  by  far  the  best  route.  I  followed  an  Indian  trail  along  the  banks  in 
order  to  continue  the  rough  survey  of  the  river,  and  be  able  to  enter  the  Grand  Coulee  from  the 
river.  This  route  enabled  me  to  have  the  same  view  of  the  country.  Until  noon  of  the  19th 
the  trail  was  along  the  northern  slope  of  the  plain,  and  very  rocky  and  dangerous.  The  river 
to  the  north  was  impassable.  I  then  arrived  on  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Grand  Plain;  the 
view  from  this  point  was  extensive ;  to  the  south  and  east  could  be  seen  a  vast  plain  covered 
with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass,  but  destitute  of  timber  and  underbrush  of  every  description, 
except  a  cluster  of  trees  near  where  the  trail,  previously  spoken  of,  strikes  this  level ;  to  the 
west,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  general  level  is  a  prolongation  of  this  plain,  and 
covered  with  mountains,  which  rise  as  they  recede  from  the  view ;  to  the  north  you  have  a  fine 
view  of  the  Columbia,  and  its  steep  rocky  banks,  around  which  I  passed  on  my  way  to  Spokane 
river.  Continuing  over  this  level  half  an  hour,  I  again  descended  to  the  river  by  a  steep  and 
rocky  trail,  and  marched  three  miles,  encamping  near  the  mouth  of  the  coulee,  about  three  miles 
from  the  camp  of  the  17th.  I  obtained  a  meridian  altitude  of  the  sun,  which  placed  us  in  latitude 
47°  58'  51".  To  give  a  description  of  the  banks,  as  seen  from  this  camp,  would  be  nothing  more 
than  a  repetition  of  what  I  have  stated  before.  When  within  two  miles  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Grand  Coulee,  the  trail  again  divided.  One  passed  over  a  rocky  bluff  about  two  hundred  feet 
high  ;  the  other  continued  along  the  river  to  the  mouth  of  the  coulee.  To  save  time  and  distance, 
I  conducted  the  train  by  the  former,  sending  the  observers  to  take  particular  observations  after 
leaving  the  river.  Timber,  which  was  seen  in  great  abundance  to  the  Grand  Plain,  has  grad 
ually  disappeared,  and  but  few  trees  are  seen  along  the  river.  The  trail  leaves  the  river  to  the 
north,  and  passes  nearly  south.  After  an  ascent  of  two  hundred  and  forty-three  feet,  we  arrived 
upon  a  level  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  coulee ;  it  was  about  ten  miles  wide  at  the 
northern  entrance,  and  gradually  widened  until  it  passed  out  of  sight;  its  walls  were  about  eight 
hundred  feet  high,  and  one  solid  mass  of  rock,  basalt  cemented  together  by  lava,  or  some  more 
fusible  rock.  The  trail  had  a  gradual  fall  for  about  six  miles,  which  gives  a  fair  index  of  the 


FROM    MOUTH    OF   CLARK'S    FORK   TO    WALLAH-WALLAH.  285 

ground  included  between  the  walls.  At  this  point  we  came  to  a  fine  lake  about  sixty  feet  broad, 
which  had  no  visible  outlet.  Soon  after  entering  the  coulee,  I  descried  a  mountain  bearing  N.  9° 
E. ;  its  top  was  conical  and  covered  with  snow.  I  thought  it  was  one  of  the  highest  peaks  of 
the  Cascade  range,  but  an  inspection  of  my  maps  leads  rne  to  believe  that  it  was  one  of  the  snow 
capped  peaks  far  above  the  49th  parallel.  From  this  lake  the  trail  had  a  gradual  rise  to  the 
south.  This  coulee  was  twenty  miles  in  length;  its  walls  then  passed  out  of  sight;  to  the  west 
they  followed  a  ravine.  The  soil  was  generally  sand,  except  near  the  walls,  where  it  was  made 
up  of  disintegrated  rock.  Contrary  to  my  expectations,  I  found  the  view  from  the  camp  as  broad 
and  extensive  to  the  east  as  on  the  Grand  Plain  ;  but  to  the  west  it  was  intercepted  by  coulees. 
The  line  of  march  the  succeeding  day  was  very  rocky  for  six  miles,  when  we  entered  the  second 
coulee  in  size.  This  coulee  has  the  general  appearance  of  the  former.  Travelling  through 
this,  we  again  entered  the  Hudson's  Bay  trail  near  a  high  rocky  mound.  To  remove  any  doubt 
that  may  remain  on  the  minds  of  others  in  regard  to  the  Grand  Coulee,  which  is  laid  down  on  the 
maps  about  ninety  miles  in  length,  I  will  state  that  I  obtained  the  best  guide  in  the  country.  He 
was  born  in  this  country,  and  has  travelled  the  route  for  the  last  fifteen  years.  I  questioned  him 
very  closely  in  regard  to  the  route  travelled  by  Lieutenant  Johnson,  in  the  middle  of  June, 
1841.  The  coulee  through  which  he  travelled  is  not  known  as  the  Grand  Coulee  among  the  old 
residents.  After  leaving  the  coulee  spoken  of  above,  the  trail  has  a  gradual  fall  until  it  arrives 
at  the  bank  of  a  stream.  I  then  followed  along  this  bank  and  encamped  on  the  west  side;  this 
stream,  which  was  ten  feet  wide  and  about  two  feet  deep,  was  rilled  with  large  boulders,  showing 
that  it  must  have  been  a  large  and  rapid  stream.  How  far  these  rocks  have  been  carried  I  am  not 
able  to  state,  but  none  were  seen  that  would  correspond  to  them  in  size. 

After  travelling  a  few  miles,  I  crossed  this  stream  and  passed  a  fine  lake,  about  six  miles  in 
length  and  one  in  width ;  it  was  fringed  with  alder  bushes  and  filled  with  wild  fowl — ducks, 
geese,  and  white  swan.  Along  the  eastern  bank  of  this  lake  I  again  commanded  a  view  of  the 
range  along  the  western  bank  of  the  Columbia  as  far  north  as  the  Pisquouse  river.  This  view, 
taken  in  connexion  with  the  information  I  have  obtained  from  my  guide,  leads  me  to  believe  that 
the  country  bounded  on  the  east  by  my  line  of  march,  on  the  north  and  west  by  the  Columbia, 
on  the  south  by  a  line  passing  through  the  mouth  of  the  Pisquouse  river  and  the  southern  ex 
tremity  of  the  second  coulee  previously  spoken  of,  is  filled  with  coulees  running  in  every  direction, 
and  ranging  from  one  to  fifteen  miles  in  length.  Leaving  this  lake,  I  travelled  through  drifting 
sand-hills  for  three  or  four  miles;  these  sands  continued  westward  as  far  as  the  eye  could  distin 
guish.  I  then  entered  a  rocky  valley  and  continued  until  nightfall,  when  I  found  a  brook  affording 
sufficient  water  for  the  animals  and  cooking  purposes.  Since  leaving  the  Columbia  the  trees 
have  entirely  disappeared  ;  the  last  seen  were  near  the  northern  entrance  on  the  eastern  side : 
from  this  camp  the  trail  passes  over  the  plain,  with  a  gradual  fall.  The  gorge  through  which  the 
river  flows  was  in  sight  during  the  entire  distance  to  this  camp,  and  the  plain  before  us  and  to 
the  east.  The  approaches  to  the  river  are  excellent  from  this  point.  I  continued  along  the  river 
to  Snake  river.  The  Yakima  was  very  low,  and,  from  the  appearance  at  its  mouth,  I  should  not 
think  it  discharges  more  water  than  the  Spokane. 

The  banks  along  Snake  river,  near  the  mouth  and  up  the  stream  for  at  least  a  mile,  are  not 
over  thirty  feet,  and  in  many  places  not  exceeding  ten  feet  high.  Crossing  this  stream,  I  moved 
to  Fort  Wallah- Wallah,  about  ten  miles  distant.  Arriving  at  this  fort  after  dark,  and  on  a  dark 
and  stormy  night,  I  took  up  quarters  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  buildings.  Here,  in  accordance  with 
your  letter,  I  inspected  the  animals  in  charge  of  Mr.  Pambrun ;  they  were  very  weak  and  still 
unfit  for  service.  I  think  they  have  regained  sufficient  strength  to  baffle  the  rigors  of  this  season, 
provided  the  winter  is  not  as  severe  as  that  of  last  year.  The  Indian  horse  spoken  of  in  your 
letter  had  not  been  turned  into  the  band.  While  at  this  post  I  succeeded  in  finding  him ;  he  was 
then  put  with  the  other  animals,  and  a  descriptive  list  left  with  Mr.  Pambrun.  As  the  country 
between  this  point  and  the  Dalles,  and  from  thence  to  Olympia,  via  Vancouver,  had  been  trav- 


286  FROM    FORT    OWEN    TO    WALLAH  WALLAH. 

elled  by  the  main  party,  I  did  not  take  any  notes.     After  completing  the  duties  at  this  place,  I 
proceeded  to  the  Dalles  by  land. 

In  view  of  a  railroad  line  from  Fort  Colville  to  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  or  any  point  on  the  Co 
lumbia,  I  will  state  that  there  are  no  obstacles  from  Fort  Colville  along  the  river  for  twenty- 
seven  miles ;  at  this  point  the  steep  hills  and  steep  bluff  banks  along  the  river  offer  a  serious 
obstacle,  and  require  a  careful  survey.  Continuing  on  to  Spokane  river  and  the  Grand  Plain, 
the  great  foil  to  the  river  and  the  height  of  the  plain  are  such  as  to  affect  the  whole  line,  and 
may  be  to  deflect  it  from  its  course.  In  consideration  of  this,  I  am  in  favor  of  the  river  bank. 
Following  the  river,  there  are  no  difficulties  until  you  arrive  at  the  great  bend  of  the  river.  This 
part  to  the  camp  of  the  19th,  if  not  impossible,  is  certainly  impracticable,  involving  not  only 
steep  side-cutting,  but  a  sharp  curve.  This,  then,  will  throw  the  line  upon  the  high  level.  The 
limited  time  I  had,  and  the  lateness  of  the  season,  did  not  admit  of  my  giving  these  portions  so 
thorough  an  examination  as  they  required.  From  this  point,  or  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
plain,  the  country  offers  every  facility  so  far  as  grades,  but  is  destitute  of  timber.  The  approach 
to  the  Columbia  along  my  route  was  good,  and  to  the  Yakima  valley.  This  line  could  be  de 
flected  to  the  Columbia,  at  any  point  south  of  Pisquouse  river,  without  incurring  deep  excava 
tions  or  embankments ;  but  I  fear  the  approaches  are  unfavorable.  From  where  my  trail  came 
to  the  Columbia,  to  Fort  Wallah- Wallah,  the  country  is  level  and  sandy ;  the  approaches  to 
Snake  river  are  very  favorable. 

Arriving  at  the  Dalles,  I  turned  over  the  animals  and  the  bulk  of  the  property  to  Mr.  Martin. 
I  also  inspected  the  animals  left  at  this  place ;  they  were  in  much  better  condition  than  those 
left  at  Wallah-Wallah,  and  will  be  able  to  enter  the  field  in  a  few  months.  At  this  place  1  dis 
charged  my  guide  and  packer.  I  then  proceeded  with  the  rest  of  my  party  to  Fort  Vancouver, 
and  thence  to  Olympia,  via  Cowlitz  river  and  Cowlitz  landing. 

The  barometer  used  in  my  party  was  compared  with  one  in  the  main  party,  at  the  time  of  leav 
ing,  with  a  view  of  another  comparison  at  Olympia,  as  that  instrument  was  broken  in  the  field, 
and  I  had  no  standard  to  refer  mine  to.  I  have  taken  the  mean  of  the  observations  taken  at  my 
camp  at  Fort  Colville  as  the  line  of  reference. 

Finding  you  absent  upon  my  arrival  at  Olympia,  I  turned  the  property  over  to  Mr.  Osgood. 

Upon  your  return  I  had  the  pleasure  of  reporting  in  person. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

RICHARD  ARNOLD, 
Second  Lieutenant    Third  Artillery. 

His  Excellency  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Expedition. 


22.  REPORT  OF    LIEUTENANT  R.    MACFEELY,  u.  s.  A.,  OF    HIS  RETURN   FROM  FORT  OWEN  TO 

WALLAH- WALLAH. 

FORT  VANCOUVER,  W.  T., 

January  20,  1854. 

SIR:  In  compliance  with  the  request  in  your  letter  of  the  4th  instant,  to  furnish  a  report  of  the 
route  passed  over  by  me  in  returning  from  the  St.  Mary's  village  to  this  place,  I  have  the  honor 
to  submit  the  following: 

I  commanded  the  escort  which  accompanied  the  expedition  for  establishing  a  depot  of  provisions 
at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  from  the  Dalles  until  our  arrival  at  that  place  on  the  29th  of  August. 

Not  meeting  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  as  expected,  the  party  undrr  your  command,  it  became 
necessary,  in  order  to  reduce  as  much  as  possible  the  expenditure  of  the  provisions  intended  for 
your  use,  that  all  whose  services  could  be  dispensed  with  should  be  sent  back.  According^,  I 


FROM   FORT    OWEN    TO    WALLAH- WALLAH.  287 

was  placed  in  charge  of  sixteen  quartermaster's  employe's  and  ten  soldiers,  and  ordered  by 
Lieutenant  R.  Saxlon  to  proceed  with  them  to  Fort  Vancouver. 

The  route  by  which  I  was  to  return  having  been  left  to  my  own  selection,  I  chose  the  one 
crossing  the  Bitter  Root  or  St.  Mary's  mountains,  known  as  the  Nez  Perces  trail,  believing  that 
by  this  route  I  could  reach  the  Dalles  in  less  time  than  by  either  the  route  across  the  Coeur 
d'Alene  mountains,  or  the  one  over  which  we  had  just  travelled. 

There  being  no  Indians  at  this  time  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  St.  Mary's  village,  I  was  unable 
to  procure  a  guide.  I  learned,  however,  from  Mr.  Frank  Owen,  that  his  brother  had  once 
travelled  this  trail,  and  that  though  much  worse,  it  was  at  least  one-third  shorter  than  either  of 
the  others.  Mr.  Owen  also  kindly  offered  to  accompany  and  show  me  where  the  trail  entered 
the  mountains. 

After  remaining  a  few  days  at  the  St.  Mary's  village  to  rest  our  weary  animals  and  to  dry  some 
beef  for  our  use,  we  set  out  on  the  4th  of  September  without  a  guide,  map,  or  compass,  and  with 
but  twenty  days'  rations,  to  find  our  way  back  by  an  unknown  route  to  the  Dalles. 

My  party  consisted  in  all  of  twenty-seven  men,  and  we  had  with  us  fifty-nine  horses  and  one 
mule.  The  most  of  our  horses  were  so  weak  and  lame  as  to  be  totally  unfit  to  undertake  the  long 
journey  through  the  mountains. 

Our  course,  as  near  as  I  could  guess,  for  the  two  days  after  leaving  the  St.  Mary's  village,  was 
nearly  south  ;  passing  up  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root,  and  following  that  stream  about  forty  miles, 
the  trail  entered  the  canon  or  pass  in  the  mountains. 

The  country  through  which  we  passed  was  moderately  rolling;  about  one-fourth  being  covered 
with  timber,  and  the  rest  prairie  or  open  land.  The  soil  of  the  bottom  land  is  a  brownish  loam, 
mixed  with  sand-gravel;  that  of  the  upland  contains  less  loam,  and  is  not  so  rich,  though  yielding 
an  abundance  of  good  grass. 

On  entering  the  mountains  on  the  third  day,  we  took  a  nearly  west  course,  following  a  small 
Indian  trail  which  led  through  a  deep  canon  up  the  Nez  Perces  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  river, 
crossing  and  recrossing  it  very  often  during  the  day,  the  trail  winding  at  first  through  open 
timber,  which  gradually  became  thicker  as  we  advanced  farther  into  the  mountains.  This 
stream,  I  was  informed  by  Mr.  F.  Owen,  is  the  principal  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root ;  it  varies  in  width 
from  three  to  six  yards,  seldom  exceeding  two  feet  in  depth.  Its  current  is  very  rapid,  and,  like 
all  mountain  streams,  it  is  clear  and  cold. 

Alter  following  up  this  stream  for  about  twenty-five  miles,  and  encamping  on  it  one  night,  we 
commenced  the  ascent  of  the  mountains.  The  trail  ascending  for  some  time  by  a  gentle  acclivity, 
and  winding  round  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  became,  as  we  continued  to  advance,  more  steep  ; 
in  some  places  leading  us  across  narrow  shelves  of  rocks,  and  at  others  over  a  loose  soil  of  sand 
and  gravel,  making  it  difficult  and  dangerous  for  our  animals.  In  about  an  hour,  leaving  the 
edge  of  the  precipice,  we  continued  toiling  up  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  after  six  hours'  hard 
climbing  reached  what  seemed  to  be  its  summit,  but  was  in  fact  the  brink  of  a  deep  and  pre 
cipitous  ravine,  from  the  bottom  of  which  rose  a  second  slope,  similar  to  the  one  we  had  just 
ascended.  We  descended  by  a  steep  and  rugged  path  to  the  foot  of  this  ravine,  where  we  found 
a  small  spring.  Stopping  here  about  an  hour  to  rest  our  anim:ds,  we  were  compelled,  for  want 
of  grass,  and  in  hopes  of  soon  finding  some,  to  set  out  again.  When  about  halfway  up  this  slope, 
night  coming  on,  we  were  unable  to  follow  the  trail,  and  finding  no  grass,  tied  up  our  animals  to 
keep  them  1'rom  straying  off  in  search  of  it;  and  having  no  water  with  which  to  prepare  our 
supper,  we  turned  in  without  it. 

The  next  morning  we  started  at  peep  of  day,  and  not  having  eaten  anything  since  the  morning 
before,  were  anxious  soon  to  come  upon  water,  intending,  when  we  did,  to  stop  and  get  breakfast. 
Our  animals  were  now  so  much  exhausted  from  the  fatigue  of  the  last  two  days,  during  which 
time  they  had  had  nothing  to  eat,  that  I  made  all  the  men  dismount,  and  informed  them  that  they 
would  have  to  walk  until  we  got  out  of  the  mountains.  Our  road  this  day  was  similar  to  that 


288  FROM    FORT    OWEN    TO    WALLAH-WALLAH. 

travelled  the  day  before,  full  of  steep  ascents  and  yet  more  precipitous  declivities,  and  much 
obstructed  by  fallen  timber.  About  12  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  a  deep  ravine,  from  the 
side  of  which  issued  a  small  spring,  and  finding  a  little  grass  in  the  vicinity,  I  concluded  to  encamp 
here.  The  spring  was  so  small  that  we  had  to  dig  a  number  of  little  wells  for  the  water  to 
collect  in,  in  order  to  obtain  sufficient  for  ourselves  and  animals. 

Three  of  our  horses  gave  out  this  day  and  were  left  behind,  and  many  of  the  others  were  so 
much  used  up,  that  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we  got  them  into  camp. 

For  eight  days  more  we  continued  climbing  mountain  after  mountain,  our  difficulties  increasing 
as  we  proceeded;  and  when  after  much  toil  we  had  attained  the  summit  of  one  of  these  mountains, 
it  was  only  to  behold  another  of  still  greater  altitude  rising  in  advance  of  us  ;  and  so  it  continued, 
day  after  day,  until  we  began  to  think  that  there  was  no  limit  to  them. 

These  mountains,  unlike  any  that  I  had  before  seen,  seemed  to  have  no  dividing  ridge,  but  are 
an  immense  mass  of  mountains,  broken  into  conical  peaks  and  lateral  spurs,  and  all  thrown 
together  and  piled  one  upon  another  in  wildest  confusion. 

Owing  to  the  scarcity  of  grass  we  were  unable  to  make  regular  camps — sometimes  stopping 
three  or  four  times  during  a  day  to  allow  our  animals  to  gather  the  thin  grass  on  the  sides  of  the 
mountain,  and  frequently  encamping  at  night  without  either  water  or  grass. 

We  suffered  a  good  deal  from  the  cold,  owing  to  the  sudden  transition  to  a  high  altitude.  For 
several  days  we  had  to  contend  against  rain,  hail,  and  snow,  which,  by  making  the  rond  muddy 
and  slippery,  kept  both  men  and  horses  on  a  continual  strain.  Often  the  road  was  obstructed 
with  large  pine  trees  which  had  fallen  and  lay  in  every  direction  across  the  trail,  making  it 
almost  impassable.  On  the  summit  of  two  of  the  mountains  we  found  snow  to  the  depth  of 
three  or  four  inches,  and  it  was  still  snowing  there,  while  in  descending  into  the  valley  it  changed 
into  sleet  and  rain.  At  last,  about  noon  on  the  15th  of  September,  we  found  ourselves  on 
the  summit  of  the  last  mountain,  and  beheld  the  Nez  Perces  plains  spreading  out.  in  smiling 
verdure  beneath  us.  The  contrast  between  these  vast  plains,  glimmering  with  reflected  sunshine, 
and  the  cold  and  dreary  region  from  which  we  first  beheld  them,  inspired  us  with  fresh  energy ; 
and,  forgetting  our  fatigue,  we  hurried  down  the  mountain,  dragging  our  jaded  animals  after  us, 
hoping  soon  to  reach  its  base,  where  our  animals  would  obtain  food  and  rest.  We  soon,  however, 
discovered  that  our  hopes  were  not  to  be  realized  as  soon  as  we  had  imagined,  and  that  we  had 
still  a  long  distance  to  travel  before  reaching  the  plains. 

About  sundown  we  encamped  in  a  little  open  prairie  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  where  we 
found  better  grass  than  our  animals  had  had  since  leaving  the  St.  Mary's  valley.  There  being 
no  water  here,  at  dawn  of  day  we  were  again  on  the  march,  and,  after  travelling  about  five 
miles,  came  upon  a  small  stream  at  the  base  of  the  mountain.  Bordering  on  the  stream  was 
a  large  prairie  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  bunch-grass.  Here  I  concluded  to  remain 
a  few  days,  as  our  animals  were  completely  worn  out  and  required  rest;  besides  which,  private 
Stevens,  a  soldier  attached  to  the  escort,  having  failed  to  reach  camp  the  night  before,  I  wished 
to  send  back  in  search  of  him. 

This  man  had  not  been  seen  by  any  of  the  party  since  noon  the  day  before,  and  I  feared  that 
some  accident  had  happened  to  him.  1  therefore,  immediately  after  encamping,  sent  two  men 
back  on  the  trail  to  look  for  him. 

These  men  remained  out  all  night,  and  did  not  return  until  the  following  evening.  They  found 
the  saddle  and  bridle  belonging  to  the  lost  man  about  fifteen  miles  back  from  our  camp,  but 
though  they  had  built  fires  and  shouted,  and  fired  off  pistols  from  every  height,  had  seen  nothing 
of  him.  They  said  that  it  had  snowed  all  night,  and  that  in  the  morning  it  was  so  deep  that 
they  had  great  difficulty  in  keeping  on  the  trail. 

In  some  places  the  snow  had  drifted,  and  was  two  and  three  feet  deep.  They  had  gone  back 
to  within  a  mile  of  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  some  distance  beyond  where  the  man  had  been 
last  seen.  I  sent  parties  to  scour  round  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and  to  build  fires,  in  order 


FROM    FORT    OWEN    TO    WALLAH-WALLAH.  289 

to  attract  bis  attention  ;  but  after  two  days'  unsuccessful  search  I  was  compelled,  in  consequence 
of  the  scarcity  of  provisions,  (we  having  but  seven  days'  rations  left,)  to  give  him  up  for  lost,  and 
to  proceed  on  our  journey  without  him. 

I  have  recently  learned  that  this  man,  after  wandering  several  days  in  the  mountains,  during 
which  time  his  feet  and  hands  were  frozen,  found  his  way  to  the  plains,  where  he  was  discovered 
and  taken  c;ire  of  by  some  Nez  Perces  Indians,  who,  after  he  had  recovered  sufficiently  to  travel, 
took  him  to  Fort  Dalles.  He  is  now  in  the  hospital  at  that  post,  and  has  not  yet  recovered  suffi 
ciently  to  be  sent  to  duty. 

It  appears,  fron  his  statement,  that  his  horse  gave  out,  and  in  trying  to  get  him  along  he  got 
behind  the  train,  and  losing  the  trail  in  consequence  of  the  snow  which  coveted  it,  became  bewil 
dered,  and  was  unable  to  find  it  again.  When  discovered  by  the  Indians  he  was  unable  to  walk, 
and  in  a  f finishing  condition,  not  having  eaten  anything  for  fifteen  diys  but  a  prairie  chicken, 
which  he  killed  with  a  stick. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  we  started  again,  and  in  about  two  hours  came  upon  a  stream, 
which  I  supposed  to  be  the  Kooskooskia  or  Clearwater.  This  stream,  where  we  crossed  it, 
flows  with  a  rapid  current  over  a  bed  of  pebbles,  and  is  about  twenty  yards  wide.  Fording  it, 
we  came  upon  a  deserted  Indian  camp.  Here  were  the  poles  of  discarded  lodges,  near  which 
were  several  small  gardens  that  had  evidently  been  cultivated  this  season,  and  from  the  piles  of 
hulls  which  I  saw  scattered  about,  I  judged  that  peas  had  been  the  principal  crop  raised  in  them. 

The  trail  which  we  had  followed  so  fir,  here  became  broader  and  divided  into  two — one 
following  down  the  Clearwater,  the  course  of  which  at  this  place  seemed  to  be  nearly  north,  and 
the  other  taking  off  the  left  in  a  southwest  direction.  I  hesitated  for  a  few  moments,  not  know 
ing  which  of  these  trails  to  take,  when  discovering  some  fresh  tracks  of  horses  and  cattle  on 
the  one  to  the  left,  and  the  course  of  this  one  agreeing  with  that  which  I  thought  we  ought  to 
travel,  decided  me  in  choosing  it. 

On  leaving  the  Clearwater,  we  wound  our  way  up  a  steep  hill,  and  continued  to  ascend  by  a 
series  of  gentle  ramps,  and  at  the  end  of  about  twenty  miles  came  to  the  lop  of  a  ridge  running 
in  a  direction  nearly  parallel  to  that  stream.  Between  this  ridge  and  the  Clearwater,  the 
country,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  straggling  pines,  is  destitute  of  timber,  the  soil  of  which, 
though  dry  and  sandy,  yields  an  abundance  of  fine  grass.  After  crossing  this  ridge,  until  we 
struck  the  Snake  river,  we  travelled  through  a  beautiful  country,  alternating  with  open  prairie 
and  timber  land,  and  intersected  with  numerous  little  rivulets,  varying  in  width  from  two  to  six 
feet.  The  soil  bordering  on  these  streams  is  a  dark  loam,  and  afforded  fine  pasturage  for  our 
animals. 

We  travelled  very  slowly,  not  over  fifteen  miles  a  day,  for  many  of  our  horses  were  so  weak 
that  they  faltered  and  staggered  as  they  walked. 

On  the  morn'ng  of  the  20th  of  September  we  came  suddenly  in  sight  of  Snake  river,  running 
through  a  deep  chasm  with  perpendicular  sides  a  thousand  or  fifteen  hundred  feet  below  us  ;  so 
that  it  looked  like  an  inconsiderable  stream. 

Following  along  the  edge  of  this  chasm  for  several  miles,  we  descended,  through  a  narrow 
ravine  about  six  miles  in  length,  to  the  margin  of  the  river,  which  we  struck  about  twenty  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Clearwater.  Pursuing  our  course  along  the  river  for  a  few  miles,  we 
came  to  an  Indian  lodge,  which  was  occupied  by  an  old  Nez  Perce  and  his  son.  These  were 
the  first  persons  we  had  seen  since  leaving  the  St.  Mary's  village.  Ascertaining  from  the  old 
Indian  that  it  was  impossible  to  follow  the  river  any  farther  on  this  side,  I  engaged  him  to  cross 
us  over  in  his  canoe,  and  to  accompany  us  as  guide  to  Wallah- Wallah  As  he  had  but  one 
canoe,  it  was  not  until  about  one  o'clock  on  the  following  day  that  we  succeeded  in  getting 
everything  safely  across.  Many  of  our  horses  were  so  weak  that  we  had  to  swim  them  across 
by  the  side  of  the  canoe. 
37/ 


290  FROM    FORT    OWEN    TO    WALL  AH- WALL  AH. 

The  river  here  runs  with  a  rapid  current  through  a  deep  cailon  with  perpendicular  sides,  and 
is  upwards  of  three  hundred  yards  wide,  and  as  clear  as  spring  water. 

For  two  davs  and  a  half  we  followed  a  narrow  rocky  trail  down  the  course  of  Snake  river. 
Sometimes  coming  upon  rocky  bluffs,  rising  perpendicularly  from  the  water,  we  would  wind  our 
way  in  a  zigzag  course  up  their  sides  ;  sometimes  passing  along  a  narrow  path,  with  a  wall  of 
rock  on  one  side,  and  a  yawning  precipice  on  the  other.  In  crossing  one  of  these  narrow  ledges, 
one  of  our  pack-horses  losing  his  foot-hold,  rolled  five  hundred  feet  down  a  precipice  and  was 
instantly  killed.  He  was  only  prevented  from  falling  into  the  river  by  coming  in  contact  with  a 
large  rock. 

As  we  proceeded  down  the  river,  the  bluffs  on  either  side  became  less  steep  and  rocky,  and 
gradually  diminished  in  height. 

We  passed  several  lodges  of  Indians  on  the  banks  of  the  river. 

About  thirty-five  miles  below  where  we  crossed  it,  our  trail  left  the  river  and  followed  up  the 
course  of  a  small  stream  for  six  or  eight  miles.  Leaving  the  stream,  we  ascended  a  succession 
of  hills,  and  after  travelling  about  twenty  miles  over  a  rolling,  sandy  country,  (destitute  of  timber, 
but  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  wild  sage,)  we  descended  a  steep  hill,  at  the  foot  of  which 
ran  the  Two  Canon  river.  This  stream  flows  with  a  gentle  current,  and  is  about  six  yards  wide 
and  two  feet  deep. 

Crossing  this  river,  our  trail  led  us  over  a  gently  undulating  country,  and  at  the  end  of  about 
twenty-five  miles  came  upon  a  small  creek,  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide,  called  the  "  Touchet." 
Following  along  this  creek  about  fifteen  miles,  we  left  it,  and  after  a  march  of  fifteen  miles  over 
a  barren,  sandy  country,  reached  Fort  Wallah-Wallah  on  the  27th  of  September. 

On  our  arrival  at  this  place  we  were  completely  out  of  provisions,  and  for  seven  days  previous 
had  been  living  on  half  rations.  I  obtained  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  post  a  supply 
sufficient  to  last  us  to  the  Dalles. 

We  remained  at  Wallah-Wallah  two  days  to  jerk  some  beef,  and  to  allow  our  animals  to 
recruit  a  little.  We  set  out  again,  and  taking  the  Columbia  River  trail,  reached  Fort  Dalles  on 
the  6th  of  October.  Turning  over  the  public  animals  and  property  in  my  charge  to  the  quarter 
master  of  that  post,  I  took  river  transportation,  and  arrived  at  Fort  Vancouver  on  the  10th  of 
October. 

I  estimate  the  distance  from  the  St.  Mary's  village  to  Fort  Dalles,  by  the  route  which  we 
travelled,  to  be  between  450  and  500  miles.  We  were  thirty-three  days  in  accomplishing  this 
journey.  One-third  of  this  time  our  route  was  over  barren,  rocky  mountains,  destitute  of  grass, 
which  so  weakened  our  horses  and  wore  off  their  hoofs  (they  being  unshod)  that  seventeen  of 
them  gave  out,  and  being  unable  to  travel,  were  abandoned.  Besides  these,  we  lost  seven 
others — five  of  which  strayed  away  or  were  stolen,  and  two  were  accidentally  killed  ;  one  by 
falling  down  a  precipice,  and  the  other,  getting  entangled  in  his  picket-rope,  was  choked  to  death. 
The  distance  from  the  Bitter  Root  river  (across  the  mountains  by  the  trail  which  we  travelled) 
to  the  Clearwater  I  estimate  to  be  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles. 

The  whole  country  from  the  St.  Mary's  village  to  the  Dalles,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
valleys  on  the  Bitter  Root  and  between  the  Clearwater  and  Snake  rivers,  is  a  barren,  sterile 
desert,  without  a  single  redeeming  property  to  recommend  it. 

In  conclusion,  I  have  to  state  that  I  received  no  instructions  to  make  an  exploration  of  this  route ; 
and  as  I  took  no  interest  in  it,  and  kept  no  notes,  I  am  unable  to  furnish  you  a  more  detailed 
report  respecting  it. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

R.  MACFEELY, 

Second  Lieutenant  Fourth  Infantry. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVEXS, 

In  Charge  of  N.  P.  R.  Exploration,  Olympia,  Washington  Territory. 


VOYAGE   IN    A    CANOE   FROM    FORT    OWEN    TO    VANCOUVER.  291 

G. 

NAVIGABILITY  OF  THE  COLUMBIA. 

23.  REPORT  OF  DR.  GEO.  SUCKLEY,  ASSISTANT  SURGEON,  u.  s.  A.,  OF  HIS  TRIP  IN  A  CANOE  FROM 
FORT  OWEN,  DOWN  THE   BITTER  ROOT,  CLARK'S  FORK,  AND  COLUMBIA  RIVERS,  TO  VANCOUVER. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

December  19,  1853. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report  concerning  my  operations  while  at  the 
Flathead  village  of  St.  Mary's,  and  my  subsequent  reconnaissance  of  the  Bitter  Root,  St.  Mary's, 
Flathead  or  Clark  and  Columbia  rivers,  agreeably  to  instructions  received  from  you  dated 
October  2. 

I  had  considerable  difficulty  in  making  a  canoe  which  would  answer  the  purpose.  A  skin-boat, 
made  of  three  bullocks'  hides,  was  at  length  constructed,  and  on  the  15th  of  the  same  month  I 
embarked,  with  two  white  men  and  an  Indian,  to  descend  the  Bitter  Root  river.  The  inhabitants 
at  St.  Mary's  were  entirely  unacquainted  with  the  nature  of  the  river  and  its  capabilities  for  canoe 
navigation,  no  boats  ever  having  been  known  to  ascend  the  river  higher  than  the  Horse  Plain, 
just  below  the  junction  of  the  St.  Mary's  and  Pend  d'Oreille  rivers. 

My  trip  being  considered  so  hazardous,  I  was  obliged  to  proceed  with  great  caution,  and  it 
was  not  until  the  eleventh  day  that  I  reached  the  latter  river.  On  the  25th  day  after  my  departure 
from  St.  Mary's  I  reached  the  Pend  d'Oreille  mission.  My  provisions  had  entirely  given  out, 
but,  thanks  to  the  kindness  and  hospitality  of  the  good  missionaries  at  that  point,  my  stock  was 
replenished.  Here  I  found  that  the  skin-canoe  had  become  so  rotten  that  it  became  necessary, 
in  case  I  proceeded  farther  by  water,  to  obtain  a  new  boat.  Owing  to  the  miscarriage  of  some 
letters  of  instruction  which  had  been  sent  to  me  from  you,  and  from  a  wrong  impression  on  the 
minds  of  the  priests  to  the  effect  that  they  had  heard  of  your  having  sent  positive  orders  to  me 
to  relinquish  the  trip,  I  was  reluctantly  compelled  to  take  h  >rses  and  proceed  to  Fort  Colville, 
on  the  Columbia  river,  distant  sixty  miles  by  land.  The  distance  by  the  river  may  be  a  little 
more.  It  is  my  opinion,  from  what  I  could  learn  by  observation  and  report,  that  I  could  have 
descended  the  Clark  river  to  that  point,  although,  of  course,  I  should  have  been  obliged  to  use 
great  caution,  as  nothing  definite  is  known  by  the  Indians,  or  others,  concerning  this  point  of  the 
river.  I  suppose  that  the  river  would  be  navigable  by  the  Indians  in  their  canoes,  if  there  was 
any  inducement  for  so  doing.  Their  hunting-grounds  lie  in  another  direction,  and  they  are 
too  indolent  to  travel  for  the  sake  of  exploring  or  for  pastime. 

On  the  thirteenth  of  November  I  arrived  at  Fort  Colville,  where  I  obtained  further  supplies, 
two  canoes  and  three  Indians. 

On  the  seventeenth  I  again  embarked,  reaching  Fort  Vancouver  on  the  sixth  of  December. 
On  the  route  I  stopped  at  Fort  Okinakane,  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  the  Dalles,  and  the  Cascades, 
and  obtained  such  supplies  as  I  needed.  The  time  occupied  in  making  the  whole  distance  was 
fifty-three  days,  or  two  days  less  than  was  occupied  by  the  main  train,  under  Lieut.  Donelson, 
between  the  same  points.  The  running  time,  exclusive  of  stops,  was  two  hundred  and  eighty- 
five  and  a  half  hours,  and  the  distance,  (approximate,)  as  measured  by  the  course  of  the  rivers, 
including  the  greater  and  lesser  bends,  was  one  thousand  and  forty-nine  miles.  This  will  give 
the  average  speed  of  3.674  miles  per  hour.  There  were  but  three  portages  on  the  whole  route 
of  any  magnitude:  one  of  thirteen  hundred  paces  on  the  Clark  river,  above  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille; 
one  on  the  Columbia,  at  the  Dalles,  of  eight  hundred  paces ;  and,  lastly,  one  at  the  Cascades  of 
one  and  a  half  mile  in  length.  On  the  latter  I  made  use  of  the  wooden  railway  to  conve}r  the 
canoes  and  their  loads.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  this  passage  was  made  at  the  lowest  stage 
of  water,  when  the  current  was  proportionately  feeble. 

The  Bitter  Root  river  was  quite  shallow  in  many  places,  and  my  canoe,  which,  when  loaded, 


202  VOYAGE   IN    A    CANOE    FROM    FORT    OWEN    TO    VANCOUVER 

drew  about  ten  inches  of  \v;iter,  had  frequently  to  be  lightened.  After  reaching  the  St.  Mary's — 
formed  by  the  junc.'t:o:i  of  the  last-named  river  and  the  Hell  Gate  nver — I  always  had  sufficient 
depth  of  water.  About  sixtv  miles  (by  ihe  river)  below  the  mouth  of  the  Hell  Gate  the  mount 
ains  approach  verv  closely  to  the  bed  of  the  stream,  rendering  its  current  very  swift,  and  abound 
ing  in  rapids.  Farther  down  it  is  more  straight,  with  large  flats  on  one  or  both  sides;  channel 
deeper  and  current  more  sluggish. 

At  a  point  about  sixty  miles  above  the  Pend  d'Oreille  mission  (of  St.  Ignatius)  is  the  Fend 
d'Orcillc  or  Kalispelm  lake,  formed  by  a  dilatation  of  the  river;  it  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
about  forty-five  miles  in  length:  below  it  the  river  is  sluggish  and  wide  for  some  twenty-six 
miles,  \\here  rapids  are  again  encountered  during  low  water.  From  a  point  nine  milt  s  above 
the  lake  to  these  rapids,  a  distance  of  about  eighty  miles,  steamboats  drawing  from  twenty  to 
twenty-four  inches  could  readily  ascend.  In  higher  water,  of  course,  the  distance  would  be 
lengthened.  There  would  be  but  one  bad  obstacle  between  the  Cabinet  (twenty  five  miles 
above  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille)  and  a  point  ten  miles  below  the  mission,  a  distance  of  one  hundred 
and  forty  miles.  The  obstacle  alluded  to  is  where  the  river  is  divided  by  rocky  islands,  with  a 
fall  of  six  and  a  half  feet  on  each  side.  At  this  point  a  lock  might  readily  be  constructed.  The 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  large  freight-boats  are  in  the  habit  of  ascending  from  the  lower  end  of 
Pend  d'Oreille  Like  to  the  Horse  Plains,  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  and  thirty-h've  miles. 
This  involves  two  portages.  On  the  Columbia,  between  the  mouths  of  the  Spokane  and 
DCS  Chutes  rivers,  a  distance  of  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  there  are  but  three  bad 
obstacles  to  navigation  for  steamboats  drawing  from  twenty  to  thirty  inches.  The  principal 
of  these  are  the  Priest  and  Buckland  rapids.  These  might  probably  be  locked,  or  so  modified 
by  art  as  to  render  them  passable  by  steamboats  or  other  craft.  The  mouth  of  the  DCS  Chutes 
river  is  about  eight  miles  above  the  present  steamboat  landing  at  the  Dalles.  I  have  dwelt  on 
these  paniculars,  knowing  how  important  they  wdl  prove  in  relation  to  questions  of  railroad 
construction  and  the  transportation  of  supplies.  From  the  Horse  Plains  before  spoken  oi,  the 
river,  so  far  as  I  exam  ned  it,  would  be  excellent  for  rafting  purposes.  Timber  in  this  manner  could 
be  transported  a  great  distance.  Above  this,  to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  I  cannot  give  a  decided 
opinion  in  its  favor,  but  I  am  inclined  to  the  opinion  that  rafts  might  be  run — at  any  rate,  logs 
could  be  readily  driven  down  the  current  from  an  immense  distance. 

While  on  the  subject  of  timber,  I  will  briefly  allude  to  its  qu  inti'y  and  quality.  Along  the 
Bitter  Root  and  Hell  Gate  rivers,  arid  the  mountains  in  their  vicinity,  the  red  pine  and  the  larch, 
favorite  tr<  es  in  sliip- building,  are  found  in  great  quantities.  Farther  down  these  streams  we 
find,  in  addition,  cypress,  cedar,  hemlock,  spruce,  and  fir,  besides  several  hard-wood  trees.  The 
timber  country  extends  from  the  main  range  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  a  point  about  eighty 
miles  below  Fort  Colville;  from  thence  to  the  Dalles  there  is  no  timber.  At  the  Dalles  it  again 
appears,  and  trees  of  many  descriptions,  arid  frequently  of  enormous  size,  are  found  thickly  cov 
ering  the  valleys  and  surrounding  hills.  Good  building-stone  is  found  along  nearly  the  whole 
route.  There  are  a  few  pieces  of  excellent  land  along  these  rivers;  their  waters  are  clear  and 
beautiful,  and  filled  with  thousands  of  fish  of  the  different  species  of  the  salmon  family.  The 
country  above  the  Dalle-  is  remarkably  healthy,  (see  medical  report.)  The  St.  Mary's  valley, 
so  called  after  the  Roman  Catholic  mission  which  was  here  established,  is  situated  between  the 
Rocky  and  Bitter  Root  ranges  of  mountains.  The  valley  at  Fort  Owen  (on  the  site  of  the  former 
mission)  is  about  twelve  miles  wide.  It  is  very  fertile,  watered  by  cool,  sparkling  brooks,  arid 
surrounded  by  lofty  and  picturesque  mountains.  It  is  inhabited  by  the  Flathead  or  Selish 
Indians.  How  they  obtained  the  name  of  Flatheads  I  am  unable  to  say,  as  the  custom  of  flat 
tening  children's  heads  is  not  practised  by  them.  The  men  are  rather  below  the  average  size, 
but  they  are  well-knit,  muscular,  and  good-looking.  Although  professedly  Roman  Catholics, 
they  still  keep  up  their  aboriginal  mode  of  dress,  and  many  of  their  old  customs.  They  are 
remarkably  honest,  good-natured,  and  amiable.  On  account  of  the  depredations  and  constant 


VOYAGE    IN    A   CANOE    FROM    FORT    OWEN    TO    VANCOUVER.  293 

aggressions  made  upon  them  by  the  Blackfeet,  and  their  own  migratory  habits,  it  was  found  inad 
visable  to  keep  up  the  mission  among  them.  It  was  accordingly  abandoned  three  years  ago. 
They  still  remember  the  good  teachings  of  the  missionaries,  as  evinced  by  their  honesty  and  chas 
tity.  Although  few  in  number,  they  are  very  brave,  and  invariably  attack  the  Blackfeet  when 
they  meet.  The  custotn  of  scalping  dead  enemies  is  abandoned  by  them.  Owing  to  the  incur 
sions  of  the  Blackfeet,  who  steal  their  horses,  they  have  but  a  few  good  animals  left — so  few,  that 
some  are  prevented  from  buffalo  hunting  in  consequence.  They  raise  some  wheat  and  potatoes, 
but  depend  principally  on  the  chase  fpr  subsistence.  They  have  quite  a  large  number  of  cattle ; 
these  they  corral  at  night  to  prevent  them  from  being  killed  by  the  Blackfeet.  The  latter  Indians 
do  not  steal  caitle  as  they  do  horses,  but  kill  them  out  of  malice.  The  brothers  Owen  purchased 
the  mission  buildings  of  the  priests,  and  established  a  private  trading- post.  This  is  called  Fort 
Owen.  It  is  surrounded  by  the  Flathead  village,  numbering  sixteen  wooden  houses.  The  soil 
of  the  valley  is  exceedingly  fertile.  Cattle  do  not  generally  require  foddering  in  the  winter,  the 
snows  are  so  light.  All  the  numerous  streams  abound  in  fine  trout.  Grouse  in  the  valleys  and 
on  the  mountains,  bear,  deer,  elk,  beaver,  and  mountain  sheep,  are  abundant.  Buffalo  were  for 
merly  in  great  numbers  in  this  valley,  as  attested  by  the  number  of  skulls  seen  and  by  the  reports 
of  the  inhabitants.  For  a  number  of  years  past  none  had  been  seen  west  of  the  mountains;  but, 
singular  to  relate,  a  buffalo  bull  was  killed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pend  d'Oreille  river  on  the  day  I 
pissed  it.  The  Indians  were  in  great  joy  at  this,  supposing  that  the  buffalo  were  coming  back 
among  them.  In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  I  collected  considerable  information  respecting  the 
missions,  and  the  past  and  present  condition  of  the  Indian  tribes  on  my  route.  Much  of  this  is 
contained  in  my  journal,  from  which  I  take  the  following  extracts. 

Novtmber  6,  1853. — Thirty-two  miles  below  Lake  Kalispelm.  To-day,  after  paddling  ten  miles 
along  the  river,  which  is  here  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  we  got  into  swifter  water  and 
a  quick  succession  of  rapids.  The  nineteenth  mile  brought  us  to  our  last  portage  this  side  of  the 
mission  of  St.  Ignatius,  (R.  C.)  Here  an  island  blocks  up  and  dams  the  river,  which  relieves 
itself  on  both  sides  of  the  island  by  a  cascade  of  about  six  and  a  half  feet  perpendicular  fall. 
In  the  middle  of  the  island  is  a  cleft,  now  dry,  which  becomes  a  third  channel  in  high  water. 
Below  the  island  a  bay  makes  in  to  within  thirty  feet  of  the  water  on  its  upper  side.  Over  this 
thirty  feet  of  rock  we  made  a  portage  of  our  stuff,  and  dragged  our  boat  across.  I  learn  that 
about  thirty-five  miles  to  the  north  there  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  called  Lake  Rootham.  It 
is  about  the  same  size  as  Lake  Kalispelm,  and,  like  it,  beautifully  clear,  and  surrounded  by  lofty 
mountains,  but  surpasses  the  latter  in  beauty  by  the  great  number  of  small  islands  it  contains. 
The  outlet  of  the  lake  enters  Clark  river  about  five  miles  above  the  fall.  From  Lake  Rootham 
a  mountain  ridge  runs  south -southwest  to  the  Spokane  country,  a  distance  of  about  seventy  miles. 
The  river  and  ridge  intersect  at  the  fall,  the  island  between  being  wrought  into  its  present  shape 
by  the  continual  action  of  the  water.  According  to  the  accounts  of  Indians  and  hunters,  with 
the  single  exception  of  the  break  in  its  continuity,  produced  by  the  river  at  this  point,  the  summit 
presents  an  almost  dead  level,  and  would  offer  many  advantages  in  this  respect  for  a  trail  or  a 
wagon  road.  This  range  is  much  lower  than  the  others  in  its  neighborhood,  and  is  free  from 
snow  in  the  summer.  The  occurrence  of  a  natural  level  for  a  distance  of  seventy  miles  may,  in 
future,  be  turned  to  great  advantage.  The  fall  on  Clark  river,  in  all  probability,  affords  one  of 
the  best  natural  sites  for  manufacturing  and  milling  purposes  that  can  be  found  anywhere.  The 
island  not  only  forms  a  mill- site  of  incalculable  water-power,  but  it  affords  an  unyielding  and 
safe  foundation,  secure  from  damage  during  the  highest  freshet.  In  the  neighborhood  of  the  fall 
there  is  but  little  land  suitable  for  cultivation.  The  soil  on  the  craggy  hill-sides  is  thin,  and  at 
present  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  heavy  timber.  After  making  the  portages,  we  proceeded 
two  and  a  half  miles  down  the  river  and  encamped  for  the  night. 

November  7. — Made  an  early  start.  Paddled  nine  hours.  At  dusk  we  encamped  with  some 
Indians,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  about  half  a  mile  above  the  outlet  of  Lake  Debeoy.  There 


294  VOYAGE    IN    A    CANOE   FROM    FORT   OWEN    TO    VANCOUVER. 

are  four  lodges  at  this  place,  all  built  after  the  fashion  of  the  Sioux  lodges,  with  the  single  dif 
ference  that  they  are  covered  by  mats  of  reeds  instead  of  skins.  These  mats  are  made  of  rushes 
laid  parallel  and  fastened  together  at  the  ends.  For  convenience  in  travelling,  the  mats  are 
rolled  into  cylindrical  bundles,  and  are  thus  easily  carried  in  canoes.  Our  breakfast  and  lunch 
to-day  consisted  of  camas  roots  arid  dried  berries,  a  little  flour  and  hard  bread  crumbs  (our  last) 
being  sprinkled  in  to  thicken  the  compound,  thus  making  a  somewhat  palatable  compound  or 
mush,  or  gruel.  This  fills  up  the  stomach,  but  does  not  allay  hunger.  Our  provisions  are  out, 
the  ground  is  covered  with  snow,  and  the  sky  obscured  with  clouds.  The  weather  is  excessively 
cold.  Oar  tent  is  wet,  as  indeed  it  has  been  for  a  week  or  more.  Our  robes  and  some  of  our 
blankets  are  in  the  same  condition;  and,  on  the  whole,  our  situation  is  quite  uncomfortable. 
Under  these  circumstances,  I  concluded  to  lodge  all  night  with  the  Indians.  Our  hungry  stomachs 
were  quite  willing  to  partake  of  any  hospitality  they  might  offer  in  the  shape  of  food.  With 
these  feelings  I  entered  the  lodge  of  All-ol-sturgh,  the  head  of  the  encampment.  The  other 
lodges  are  principally  occupied  by  his  children  and  grandchildren.  They  provided  us  with  dried 
camas  and  berries,  also  a  piece  of  raw  tallow,  which  tasted  very  good.  Shortly  after  our 
entrance,  All-ol-sturgh  rang  a  little  bell;  directly  the  lodge  was  filled  with  the  inhabitants  of  the 
camp,  men,  women,  and  children,  who  immediately  got  upon  their  knees,  and  repeated,  or  rather 
chanted,  a  long  prayer,  in  their  own  language,  to  the  Creator.  The  repetition  of  a  few  pious 
sentences,  an  invocation,  and  a  hymn,  closed  the  exercises.  In  these  the  squaws  took  as  active 
a  part  as  the  men.  The  promptness,  fervency,  and  earnestness  all  showed,  was  pleasing  to  con 
template.  These  prayers,  &c.,  have  been  taught  them  by  their  kind  missionary  and  friend,  the 
much-loved  Father  Hoecken,  (S.  J.)  He  is  stationed  at  the  Mission  of  St.  Ignatius,  from  which 
we  are,  I  hope,  but  a  few  miles  distant.  The  participation  of  the  squaws  in  the  exercises,  and 
the  apparent  footing  of  equality  between  them  and  the  men,  so  much  unlike  their  condition  in 
other  savage  tribes,  appear  remarkable. 

November  8. — We  ate  some  more  dried  berries  and  some  dried  fish  for  breakfast,  and,  after 
making  our  Indian  friends  some  presents,  pushed  off  in  our  canoe  for  the  mission,  which  we 
reached  after  paddling  seven  miles.  I  walked  up  to  the  door  of  the  mission-house,  knocked  and 
entered.  I  was  met  by  the  reverend  superior  of  the  mission,  Father  Hoecken,  who,  in  a  truly 
benevolent  and  pleasing  manner,  said,  "  Walk  in,  you  are  welcome;  we  are  glad  to  see  the  face 
of  a  white  man."  I  introduced  myself  and  the  men,  and  stated  that  I  had  come  all  the  way 
from  St.  Mary's  by  water,  after  a  journey,  or  rather  voyage,  of  twenty-five  days ;  that  I  was 
out  of  provisions  and  tired.  He  bade  us  welcome,  had  our  things  brought  up  from  the  boat,  an 
excellent  dinner  prepared  for  us,  and  a  nice  room  to  sleep  in,  and  treated  us  with  the  cordiality 
and  kindness  of  a  Christian  and  a  gentleman.  In  these  kindnesses  the  Reverend  Father  Mennet- 
tree,  and  the  lay  brother,  Mr.  Mageau,  cordially  took  part — all  uniting  in  their  endeavors  to  render 
us  comfortable  and  make  us  feel  at  home.  From  the  Reverend  Mr.  Hoecken  I  have  the  follow 
ing  particulars  concerning  the  mission  and  the  condition  of  the  inhabitants  in  its  vicinity :  The 
mission  was  established  nine  years  ago;  the  whole  country  at  that  time  being  a  vast  wilderness. 
Its  inhabitants  were  the  Kalispelms.  They  lived  mostly  from  the  Tend  d'Oreille  or  Kalispelm 
lake,  down  the  Clark  river,  to  this  point;  they  speak  nearly  the  same  language  as  the  Flathead 
or  Selish  Indians.  Another  mission  (St.  Mary's)  was  at  the  same  time  opened  among  the 
last-mentioned  tribe.  Between  these  two,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Horse  and  Camas  plains,  on  the 
Clark  river,  another  band,  calling  themselves  Kalispelms,  has  since  been  formed,  of  which 
Ambrose  is  the  chief;  this  band  consists  of  a  number  of  floating  arid  wandering  families,  com 
posed  of  C^bokanes,  Kalispelms  proper,  and  Flatheads,  who,  having  intermarried,  have  formed 
a  habit  of  sojourning  at  this  locality  during  their  annual  migrations  to  and  from  the  buffalo  hunt 
ing-grounds.  In  all,  the  two  bands  of  Kalispelms  number  about  one  hundred  lodges — say  sixty 
of  the  Kalispelms  proper,  or  those  who  recognise  Victor  as  their  chief — and  have  their  head 
quarters  at  the  mission,  and  about  forty  of  the  new  band  already  alluded  to,  who  look  up  to 


VOYAGE   IN    A   CANOE    FROM   FORT    OWEN    TO    VANCOUVER.  295 

Ambrose,  and  who  live  above  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille.  The  Flatheads  number  about  forty-five 
lodges.  These  are  not  all  inhabited  by  Flatheads,  there  being  but  very  few  pure  Flatheads 
left,  the  race  having  been  almost  exterminated  by  the  Blackfeet.  The  mass  of  the  nation  now 
consists  of  Kalispelms,  Spokanes,  Nez  Perces,  and  Iroquois,  who  have  come  among  them,  together 
with  their  descendants.  Pierre  Baptiste,  the  old  Iroquois  at  Fort  Owen,  thinks  that  there  are 
about  sixty  lodges  among  the  Flatheads,  but  says  that  many  of  them  are  only  inhabited  by  old 
women  (widows)  and  their  daughters.  For  the  first  two  years  the  missionaries  lived  in  skin 
lodges,  accompanying  the  natives  on  their  periodical  hunts  and  visits  to  their  fishing-grounds,  &c. 
During  this  time  they  found  it  very  hard  to  live.  Their  food  consisted  principally  of  camas  roots 
and  dried  berries,  which  at  best  contain  but  very  little  real  nourishment.  They  raised  some 
wheat,  which  they  boiled  in  the  beard  for  fear  of  waste — parching  some  of  the  grains  to  make  a 
substitute  for  coffee.  After  this,  they  slowly,  but  steadily,  year  by  year  increased  in  welfare. 
Each  year  added  a  small  piece  to  their  tillable  ground.  They  then  obtained  pigs,  poultry,  cattle, 
horses,  agricultural  implements,  and  tools.  Their  supplies  of  tools,  seeds,  groceries,  clothing, 
&c  ,  are  shipped  direct  from  Europe  to  the  Columbia  river.  There  are  two  lay  brethren  attached 
to  the  mission.  One  of  these,  Brother  Francis,  is  a  perfect  jack  of  all  trades.  He  is  by  turns 
a  carpenter,  blacksmith,  gunsmith,  and  tinman — in  each  of  which  he  is  a  good  workman.  The 
other,  Brother  Mageau,  superintends  the  farming  operations.  They  both  worked  hard  in  bringing 
the  mission  to  its  present  state  of  perfection,  building  successively  a  windmill,  blacksmith  and 
carpenter's  shops,  barns,  cow-sheds,  &c.,  besides  an  excellent  chapel,  in  addition  to  a  large 
dwelling-house  of  hewn  timber  for  the  missionaries.  The  church  is  quite  large,  and  is  tastefully 
and  even  beautifully  decorated.  I  was  shown  the  handsomety-carved  and  gilded  altar,  the 
statue  of  "Our  Mother,"  brazen  crosses  and  rich  bronzed  fonts;  work  which,  at  sight,  appears 
so  well  executed  as  to  lead  one  to  suppose  that  they  all  must  have  been  imported.  But  no;  they 
are  the  result  of  the  patient  labor  and  ingenuity  of  the  devoted  missionaries,  and  work  which  is 
at  the  same  time  rich,  substantial,  and  beautiful.  Works  of  ornament  are  not  their  only  deeds. 
A  grindstone,  hewn  out  of  the  native  rock,  and  moulded  by  the  same  hand  which  made  the  chisel 
which  wrought  it;  tin-ware,  a  blacksmith's  shop  bellows,  ploughshares,  bricks  for  their  chimneys, 
their  own  tobacco-pipes,  turned  with  the  lathe  out  of  wood  and  lined  with  tin — all  have  been 
made  by  their  industry.  In  household  economy  they  are  not  excelled.  They  make  their  own 
soap,  candles,  vinegar,  &c. ;  and  it  is  both  interesting  and  amusing  to  listen  to  the  account  of 
their  plans,  shifts,  and  turns,  in  overcoming  obstacles  at  their  first  attempts,  their  repeated  failures, 
and  their  final  triumphs.  The  present  condition  of  the  mission  is  as  follows:  Buildings — the 
house,  a  good,  substantial,  comfortable  edifice;  the  chapel,  a  building  sufficiently  large  to  accom 
modate  the  whole  Kalispelm  nation ;  a  small  building  is  attached  to  the  dwelling-house — it  con 
tains  a  couple  of  sleeping-rooms  and  a  workshop,  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  a  store-room  for  the 
natives.  These  are  all  built  of  square  or  hewn  timber.  Besides  these,  there  are  a  number  of 
smaller  outbuildings,  built  of  logs,  for  the  accommodation  of  their  horses  and  cattle  during  the 
winter,  and  an  excellent  root-house.  The  mission  farm  consists  of  about  one  hundred  and  sixty 
acres  of  cleared  land.  Wheat,  (spring.)  barley,  onions,  cabbages,  parsnips,  peas,  beets,  potatoes, 
and  carrots,  are  its  principal  products.  The  Indians  are  especially  fond  of  carrots.  Father 
Hoecken  says  that  if  the  children  see  carrots  growing  they  must  eat  some.  Says  he,  "I  must 
shut  my  eyes  to  the  theft,  because  they  cannot,  cannot  resist  the  temptation."  Anything  else  than 
carrots  the  little  creatures  respect.  The  Indians  are  very  fond  of  peas  and  cabbage,  but  beets, 
and  particularly  onions,  they  dislike.  The  other  productions  of  the  farm  are  cattle,  hogs,  poultry, 
butter,  and  cheese.  Around  the  mission  buildings  are  the  houses  of  the  natives.  These  are  built 
of  logs  and  hewn  timber,  and  are  sixteen  in  number.  There  are,  also,  quite  a  number  of  mat 
and  skin  lodges.  Although  the  tribe  is  emphatically  a  wandering  tribe,  yet  the  mission  and  its 
vicinity  is  looked  upon  as  headquarters.  Until  farms  are  cleared  and  properly  cultivated  by 
these  Indians,  their  wandering  habits  must  necessarily  continue.  Their  migrations  do  not 


296  VOYAGE    IN    A    CANOE   FROM    FORT   OWEN    TO   VANCOUVER. 

generally  extend  over  a  tract  of  country  of  more  than  one  hundred  miles  square.  The  journeys 
are  performed  with  horses  and  canoes.  Many  individuals  of  the  nation  prefer  to  use  canoes 
entirely ;  these  are  made  of  the  inner  thin  bark  of  the  white  pine,  spread  over  red-cedar  hoops, 
sewed  with  spruce  roois,  in  the  manner  of  the  birch  canoes  of  the  Chippewas  and  other  eastern 
Indians.  The  white-pine  bark  is  a  very  good  substitute  for  birch,  but  has  the  disadvantage  of 
being  more  brittle  in  cold  weather.  These  canoes  are  also  shaped  somewhat  differently,  not 
being  turned  up  at  the  ends  like  those  of  the  Chippewas. 

Just  above  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille  the  Clark  river  divides  into  three  streams,  which  again  unite, 
thus  forming  two  or  three  large  islands.  One  of  these  streams  is  wide,  shallow,  and  swift.  Here 
the  Indians  annually  construct  a  fence,  which  reaches  across  the  stream,  and  guides  the  fish  into 
a  wier  or  rack,  where  they  are  caught  in  great  numbers.  To  the  natives  this  is  a  place  of  great 
resort.  To  Lake  Rootham,  long  celebrated  for  the  superior  quality  and  vast  numbers  ot  its 
beaver,  they  go  to  catch  the  latter  animal  and  to  hunt  deer.  To  other  places  they  go  to  hunt  deer 
alone;  to  others  to  cut  flag  and  rushes  lor  mats,  and  still  again  to  others  to  hunt  bear.  The  old 
method  of  cooking  fish  in  bowls  of  wicker  or  basket  work,  heating  the  water  by  hot  stones,  is 
still  occasionally  practised;  although  the  operation  is  not  very  cleanly,  it  is  still  very  rapid,  and 
the  fish  thus  cooked  have  an  excellent  flavor.  In  summer  the  Indians  live  principally  on  fish, 
which  they  catch  not  only  by  wiers  and  fish-traps,  but  by  the  hook  and  line  and  by  spearing. 
They  also  collect  camas  and  bitter  roots,  and  a  berry,  called  in  some  of  the  eastern  States  the 
sugar-berry  or  sugar-pear.  These  they  dry  separately,  and  also  in  cakes,  with  moss,  for  winter 
use.  This  food  affords  nourishment  merely  sufficient  to  sustain  life.  In  the  autumn,  in  addition 
to  hunting  venison  and  bear,  they  dry  meat  and  fish  for  winter  use.  When  the  severe  cold 
weather  has  fairly  set  in,  the  whole  band  moves  to  some  noted  venison  hunting-ground,  where 
during  the  heavy  snows  the  deer  cannot  escape,  and  are  readily  pursued  and  killfed  with  clubs. 

They  hunt  over  the  whole  section  so  thoroughly  as  entirely  to  exterminate  these  animals 
in  that  locality,  leaving  none  to  breed.  In  this  way  they  have  destroyed  the  deer  entirely 
in  all  but  two  or  three  places.  To  each  of  them  they  will  proceed  during  the  coming  and  one 
or  two  subsequent  winters  ;  the  deer  will  then  all  be  destroyed,  leaving  the  inhabitants  no 
dependence,  unless  by  that  time  they  shall  have  sufficient  land  under  cultivation  to  support 
them  ;  otherwise,  there  will  be  a  great  deal  of  suffering  among  these  people.  Last  winter 
they  killed  eight  hundred  deer ;  these  were  but  just  sufficient  for  their  wants.  The  Indians 
say  that  in  old  times  there  were  but  very  few  deer ;  latterly  they  became  much  m  >re  plenti 
ful.  About  six  years  ago  there  was  a  very  severe  winter  and  a  very  heavy  fall  of  snow.  The 
Indians  wantonly  slaughtered  many  thousands  of  these  animals,  most  of  which  were  so  poor 
as  almost  to  be  reduced  to  skin  and  bone,  and  for  the  most  part  unfit  for  food.  The  same  winter 
many  deer  died  from  cold  and  starvation.  As  the  deer  are  easily  killed  during  a  heavy  fall  of 
snow,  the  Indians  are  in  the  habit  of  praying  for  the  latter  as  a  great  blessing.  The  following 
is  a  short  account  of  the  operations  of  the  missionaries  :  They  came  among  these  Indians  about  nine 
years  ago,  and  found  them  to  be  a  poor,  miserable,  half-starved  race,  with  an  insufficiency  of  food 
and  nearly  naked,  living  upon  fish,  camas  and  other  roots,  and,  at  the  last  extremity,  upon  the 
pine-tree  moss.  They  (the  Indians)  were  in  utter  misery  and  want — in  want  of  every/ king.  Their 
whole  lime  was  occupied  in  providing  for  their  bellies,  which  were  rarely  full.  They  were  of  a 
peaceable  disposition,  brave,  good-tempered,  and  willing  to  work.  Of  spiritual  things  they  were 
utterly  ignorant.  Unlike  the  Indians  east  of  the  mountains,  they  had  no  idea  of  a  future  state  or 
of  a  Great  Spirit;  neither  had  they  any  idea  of  a  soul.  In  fact,  they  had  not  words  in  their 
language  to  express  such  ideas.  They  considered  themselves  to  be  animals  nearly  allied  to  the 
beaver,  but  greater  than  the  beaver — and  why?  Because,  they  said,  "  the  be.iver  builds  houses 
like  us,  and  he  is  very  cunning,  to ) ;  but  we  can  catch  the  beaver,  and  he  cannot  catch  us — 
therefore  we  are  greater  than  he."  They  thought  when  they  died  that  was  the  last  of  them. 
While  thus  ignorant,  it  was  riot  uncommon  for  them  to  bury  the  very  old  and  very  young  alive, 


VOYAGE   IN   A   CANOE   FROM   FORT   OWEN   TO   VANCOUVER.  297 

because,  they  said,  "these  cannot  take  care  of  themselves,  and  we  cannot  take  care  of  them,  and 
they  had  belter  die."  The  missionaries  had  an  arduous  labor  before  them.  They  commenced 
by  gaining  the  good  will  of  the  inhabitants  by  means  of  small  presents,  and  by  the  betrayal  of 
great  interest  in  their  welfare  in  attendance  upon  the  sick,  and,  as  they  prospered,  by  giving  the 
poor  creatures  food,  seeds,  and  instructions  as  to  farming.  The  Indians  could  not  help  seeing 
that  no  hopes  of  temporal  or  personal  benefit  induced  the  missionaries  thus  to  labor  among  them. 
The  missionary  told  them  that  they  had  a  Creator,  and  that  he  was  good;  he  told  them  of  their 
Saviour,  and  of  the  manner  of  addressing  him  by  prayer.  To  this  they  listened  and  believed. 
The  name  they  gave  the  Creator,  in  their  own  language,  is  "  the  One  who  made  himself." 

Of  the  soul  they  had  no  conception.  In  the  beginning  the  priests  were  obliged  to  depend 
upon  the  imperfect  translations  of  half-breed  interpreters.  The  word  "  soul"  was  singularly 
translated  to  the  Indians,  by  one.  of  these  telling  them  that  they  had  a  gut  that  never  rotted,  and 
that  this  was  their  living  principle  or  soul.  The  chief  of  the  tribe  became  converted,  and  was 
baptized  Loyola ;  the  mass  of  the  tribe  followed  their  leader.  They  now  almost  all  pray,  and 
have  devotional  exercises  in  their  families,  and  seem  in  a  fair  way  for  further  advancement.  To 
show  you  the  good  sense,  foresight,  and  benevolence  of  the  priests,  I  will  relate  a  short  conver 
sation  I  had  with  Father  Hoecken,  who  is  the  Superior  of  the  mission  and  has  been  among  the 
people  from  the  first.  Says  he:  "  Doctor,  you  will  scarcely  believe  it;  surrounded  by  water  as 
we  are,  we  often  have  difficulty  in  getting  fish  even  for  our  Friday  dinner."  I  replied,  jokingly: 
"I  suppose,  father,  that  the  Indians  find  no  difficulty  in  observing  a  fast  on  Friday."  He 
answered  immediately:  "I  never  spoke  to  them  about  it;  it  would  not  do.  Poor  creatures!  the}r 
fast  too  much  as  it  is,  arid  it  is  not  necessary  for  them  to  fast  more."  The  people  look  up  to  the 
father  and  love  him.  They  say  that  if  the  father  should  go  away  they  would  die.  Before  the 
advent  of  the  missionaries,  the  inhabitants,  although  totally  destitute  of  religious  ideas,  still 
believed  that  evil  and  bad  luck  emanated  from  a  fabulous  old  woman  or  sorceress.  They  were 
great  believers  in  charms  or  medicine.  Every  man  had  his  peculiar  medicine  or  charm,  which 
was  his  deity,  so  to  speak;  and  of  it  they  expected  good  or  ill.  With  some  it  would  be  the 
mouse ;  with  others  the  deer,  buffalo,  elk,  salmon,  bear,  &c.;  and  whichever  it  was,  the  savage 
would  carry  a  portion  of  it  constantly  by  him.  The  tail  of  a  mouse,  or  the  fur,  hoof,  claw, 
feather,  fin,  or  scale  of  whatever  it  might  be,  became  the  amulet.  When  a  young  man  grew  up, 
he  was  not  yet  considered  a  man  until  he  had  discovered  his  medicine.  His  father  would  send 
him  to  the  top  of  a  high  mountain  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  present  mission.  Here  he  was 
obliged  to  remain  without  food  until  he  had  dreamed  of  an  animal;  the  first  one  so  dreamed 
about  becoming  his  medicine  for  life.  Of  course,  anxiety,  fatigue,  cold,  and  fasting  would  render 
his  sleep  troubled  and  replete  with  dreams.  In  a  short  time  he  would  have  dreamed  of  what  he 
wanted,  and  return  to  his  home  a  man. 

During  the  winter  all  the  large  game  killed  is  brought  to  the  camp  and  distributed  equally 
among  all.  One  man  is  chosen  as  distributor  for  the  winter.  To  his  lodge  the  animal  is  brought. 
He  immediately  cuts  it  up  into  a  number  of  pieces  corresponding  to  the  number  arid  size  of  the 
various  families.  As  soon  as  it  is  all  cut  up,  the  chief  cries,  "  Come  and  fetch."  Immediately 
a  delegate  from  each  lodge  appears  and  carries  off  the  piece  assigned  him.  Singular  to  say,  no 
grumbling  or  dissatisfaction  is  ever  manifested  at  the  division.  This  custom  was  in  vogue  before 
the  missionaries  came  among  them ;  it  was  first  established  by  their  late  chief,  Loyola.  He 
appears  to  have  been  a  remarkable  man,  and  a  good  chieftain  and  Christian.  Although  of  a  very 
quiet  and  taciturn  disposition,  he  was  a  good  disciplinarian  and  maintained  his  authority  well. 
He  was  generally  beloved,  and  had  great  influence  over  the  tribe.  Before  his  death,  which 
occurred  two  years  ago,  he  named  the  present  chief  (Victor)  as  the  best  man  to  be  his  successor. 
After  his  decease  an  election  was  held,  at  which  all  the  members  of  the  tribe  voted,  and  by 
which  Victor  was  almost  unanimously  elected.  He  is  a  small  man,  young,  and  of  good  coun 
tenance  ;  but  so  good  and  amiable  in  his  disposition,  that  he  is  scarcelv  able  to  maintain  his 
B8/ 


298  VOYAGE   IN   A   CANOE   FROM   FORT   OWEN   TO   VANCOUVER. 

authority  over  the  tribe.  One  of  his  punishments  is  to  whip  the  offender,  but  this  he  never  does 
unless  the  culprit  first  consents  to  the  infliction;  after  which,  the  latter  will  frequently  laugh  or 
run  races,  or  play  a  game,  or  do  something  else  in  the  way  of  fun  to  show  how  little  he  cares  for 
the  punishment. 

At  the  mission  they  have  a  small  mill,  by  which  the  Indians  grind  their  wheat.  The  mill  is 
turned  by  hand,  and  will  grind  but  three  bushels  a  day. 

The  missionaries  say  that  these  Indians  are  industrious  and  not  lazy,  as  compared  to  other  In 
dians;  that  they  are  willing  to  work,  but  that  the  land  is  so  poor,  and  so  little  of  it  is  susceptible 
of  cultivation,  that  they  cannot  farm  enough.  The  mission  farm,  as  already  stated,  contains 
about  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres.  This  is  kept  up  for  the  natives,  as  but  a  few  acres  would 
be  amply  sufficient  for  the  missionaries.  Each  Indian  who  wishes  it  is  allowed  a  certain  amount 
of  land  to  cultivate  for  his  own  use,  and  is  provided  with  tools  and  seed.  The  farm  is  for  the 
most  part  on  a  terrace,  raised  some  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  river  valley. 
The  mould  is  rich  and  black,  but  veiy  thin.  Beneath  this  is  a  bed  of  bluish  clay,  very  retentive 
of  moisture  and  very  barren.  A  small  portion,  (about  two  acres,)  on  the  site  of  a  former  swamp 
now  cleared  and  drained,  is  of  deeper  rich  black  muck,  and  yields  excellent  crops. 

The  land  generally  does  not  bear  much  cropping,  and  soon  wears  out.  They  cannot  extend 
the  farm  higher  on  the  mountain  slope,  on  account  of  the  poverty  of  the  land  and  the  abundance 
of  springs.  The  large  prairie  of  the  valley-bottom,  below  this  terrace,  is  about  twenty  feet  above 
the  present  level  of  the  river.  This,  although  good  rich  land,  is  rendered  unfit  for  agricultural 
purposes  by  the  annual  overflow,  which  subsides  so  late  in  the  season  as  not  to  allow  any  plough 
ing  or  other  work  to  be  done  upon  it  before  the  middle  of  July,  too  late  for  almost  any  crop. 

The  missionaries  have  long  wanted  the  natives  to  move  to  the  Cceur  d'Alene  valley,  or  to  the 
Camas  and  Horse  Plains,  where  the  land  is  better.  They  have  offered  to  transport  the  things 
necessary  to  build  new  houses,  but  the  people  are  unwilling  to  go.  They  say:  "This  is  our 
country;  here  are  the  graves  of  our  forefathers;  here  we  were  born,  and  here  we  wish  to  die; 
we  do  not  want  to  leave  our  country,  poor  as  it  is." 

A  few  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  earth  can  be  found  the  ashes  and  cineritious  deposit  of 
a  volcano.  The  stratum  is  about  one-third  of  an  inch  thick.  As  you  proceed  in  a  north-north 
easterly  direction,  it  becomes  thicker  and  thicker.  Hence  we  may  infer  that  the  crater  was  in 
that  direction,  and  probably  can  now  be  found.  The  inhabitants  have  never  seen  it.  They  do  not 
travel  from  curiosity,  and  the  direction  is  among  mountains  from  the  very  door  of  the  mission. 
In  the  tribe  there  are  men  and  women  still  living  who  remember  the  eruption.  They  say  that  it 
came  on  during  the  afternoon  or  night,  during  which  it  rained  cinders  and  fire.  The  Indians 
supposed  that  the  sun  had  burnt  up,  and  that  there  was  an  end  of  all  things.  The  next  morn 
ing,  when  the  sun  arose,  they  were  so  delighted  as  to  have  a  great  dance  and  a  feast. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  the  mission  is  a  large  grotto,  said  to  be  fifty  feet  square  and  very  hand 
some.  I  was  unable  to  visit  it. 

The  Kalispelms  are  brave  in  battle,  and  are  said  to  be  feared  and  avoided  by  the  Blackfeet. 
They  are  not  quarrelsome,  but  are  of  good  disposition.  The  missionaries  have  done  great  things 
for  them — for  their  bodies  as  well  as  their  souls.  Theft  is  of  rare  occurrence.  The  people  seem 
to  be  devoted  to  religion,  so  far  as  external  forms  go  and  to  the  extent  that  their  present  under 
standing  will  admit.  It  would  take  three  hundred  and  fifty  acres  to  supply  them  with  sufficient 
food  when  the  deer  are  destroyed.  A  little  government  aid  could  be  well  applied.  Powder  is 
dear  with  them,  as  also  is  everything  else.  Furs  are  scarce,  and,  in  consequence,  the  people 
are  very  poor.  While  sojourning  in  these  parts,  I  was  told  that  there  is  an  abundance  of  lead 
ore  on  the  Kootenaie  river.  Black  lead  is  found  at  St.  Mary's,  and  gold  on  Hell  Gate  river. 
Copper  and"  silver  are  said  to  exist  in  the  mountains  north.  The  loud,  deep-sounding  reports, 
like  the  explosions  of  heavy  pieces  of  ordnance,  occasionally  heard  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  and 
spoken  of  by  Lewis  and  Clark  in  their  narrative,  are  now  and  then  heard.  They  never  occur 


VOYAGE  IN  A  CANOE  FROM  FOET  OWEN  TO  VANCOUVER.  299 

except  during  the  coldest  winters.  The  old  trappers  thought  that  these  noises  were  produced  by 
the  bursting  of  silver  mines.  Their  opinion  in  such  a  matter  is  of  but  little  importance,  to  my 
mind.  There  are  three  or  four  explanations  concerning  the  manner  in  which  these  sounds  may 
have  been  produced.  They  may  be  simply  volcanic  detonations.  These  are  frequently  heard 
at  great  distances.  Humboldt  mentions  having  heard  volcanic  detonations  in  the  Andes  from 
Chillo,  near  Quito,  a  distance  of  eighty-eight  miles.  But  the  fact  that  these  noises  in  the  Rocky 
mountains  are  only  heard  during  the  most  severe  winters,  seems  to  render  this  explanation  improb 
able.  Similar  reports,  attending  the  opening  of  cracks  or  chasms,  arc  said  to  be  common  in  the 
Polar  regions.  They  may  be  caused  by  the  detachment  of  heavy  masses  of  ice,  or  more  prob 
ably  by  land-slides.  On  the  main  Columbia,  a  short  distance  above  Fort  Colville,  the  black  pipe- 
stone  is  found.  There  is  no  red  pipestone  west  of  the  mountains,  except  that  which  is  already 
fabricated  into  pipes.  The  natives  have  a  few  among  them,  which  originally  came  from  the  Sioux 
country,  and  which  they  have  obtained  either  as  presents,  by  barter,  or  as  war  trophies.  I  left 
the  mission  on  the  10th  of  November,  and  arrived  at  Fort  Colville  on  the  13th.  Here  I  was 
kindly  entertained  by  Mr.  Angus  McDonald,  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  post.  Near  the  fort  is 
the  mission  of  St.  Paul,  established  among  the  Kettle  Fall  Indians,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Colum 
bia,  about  one  mile  from  the  Kettle  Falls.  I  visited  the  mission  establishment  three  times  during 
my  stay  at  Fort  Colville.  It  is  superintended  by  the  Rev.  Father  Joset,  assisted  by  one  other 
priest  and  a  lay  brother.  Father  Joset  received  me  very  kindly.  He  is  a  Swiss,  and  very  gen 
tlemanly  and  agreeable  in  his  manners.  To  him  I  am  indebted  for  much  valuable  information 
concerning  this  part  of  the  country.  The  mission  establishment  consists  of  a  chapel,  a  dwelling- 
house,  and  several  other  buildings.  There  is  no  farm  attached  to  it.  The  Indians  have  sufficient 
to  eat,  which  they  obtain  from  other  sources.  There  is,  consequently,  no  necessity  requiring  the 
missionaries  to  cultivate  land,  as  they  can  obtain  all  they  want  for  their  own  use  from  the  Hud 
son's  Bay  Company.  The  Kettle  Falls  Indians  call  themselves  Squeer-yer-pe.  The  chief  of  this 
tribe  is  called  Pierre  Jean.  He,  with  most  of  his  followers,  live  in  their  lodges  around  the  mis 
sion.  The  number  of  souls  in  this  band  is  about  three  hundred  and  fifty.  During  the  summer 
season  the  Indians  from  all  the  surrounding  country  congregate  at  this  place  to  catch  salmon. 
There  are  then  about  one  thousand  at  the  falls.  The  Squeer-yer-pe  name  for  the  Kettle  Falls  is 
Schwan-ate-koo,  or  deep-sounding  water.  Here  the  Columbia  pitches  over  a  ledge  of  rocks, 
making  a  fall  of  about  fifteen  feet  perpendicular.  The  Indians  sow  a  little  wheat  and  plant  some 
potatoes,  of  which  they  are  very  fond;  but  their  principal  subsistence  is  the  everlasting  salmon. 
These  come  up  annually  in  great  numbers,  on  their  way  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Columbia. 
The  Indians,  as  before  stated,  all  collect  in  the  neighborhood  of  these  and  other  falls,  where  they 
riot  in  feasting  on  their  captured  prey.  They  kill  hundreds  of  thousands  of  these  fish  by  spear 
ing  them.  The  myriads  of  salmon  that  ascend  the  rivers  of  the  Pacific  coast  are  almost  incred 
ible.  In  many  places  the  water  appears  alive  with  them,  and  the  shores  are  thickly  lined  with 
the  dead  and  dying  fish.  This,  according  to  De  Smet,  is  particularly  noticed  on  the  small  lakes 
of  the  upper  Columbia,  in  the  vicinity  of  Martin's  rapids.  The  salmon  ascend  the  Clark  river  to 
a  point  about  twenty-five  miles  above  its  mouth.  Here  the  great  falls  prevent  their  further  as 
cent.  The  question  has  often  occurred  to  me  whether  it  would  not  be  a  good  plan  to  blast  out  a 
raceway  or  gradual  ascent  over  these  falls,  and  thus  allow  a  passage  of  the  fish  to  the  whole 
back  country,  from  which  arise  the  sources  of  the  Clark.  This  certainly  would  be  providing 
food  for  the  Indians  and  others  at  a  very  trifling  expense.  The  salmon  of  these  waters,  unlike 
those  of  other  parts  of  the  world,  do  not  take  the  hook;  and,  strange  as  it  seems,  they  are  said 
never  to  stop  searching  after  the  source  of  the  stream  they  are  in.  Their  march  is  always  ahead 
until  they  spawn  and  die ;  they  never  return  to  the  sea.  This  seems  to  be  the  general  opinion  of 
the  people  with  whom  I  have  conversed. 

The  subject,  however,  will  never  be  thoroughly  understood  until  a  number  of  careful,  judicious 
experiments  have  been  instituted.     Salmon  are  taken  on  the  hook  by  trolling  in  the  salt  water  of 


300  VOYAGE   IN    A   CANOE   FROM    FORT   OWEN   TO   VANCOUVER. 

Puget  sound.  Herbert  gives  an  account,  taken  from  Richardson's  Fauna  Boreali  Americana,  of 
six  different  kinds  of  salmon  known  in  the  Oregon  waters.  The  European  fish  are  said  to  return 
to  the  sea  after  spawning;  there  they  remain  a  year  or  two,  until  they  become  sufficiently  restored, 
before  they  reascend  the  rivers  to  spawn  again.  The  Columbia  river  salmon  weigh  from  six  to 
forty  pounds ;  they  are  in  excellent  condition  until  they  reach  Wallah-Wallah,  after  which  they 
are  much  poorer,  both  in  flesh  and  flavor.  The  Indians  along  the  river  collect,  during  the 
summer  and  fail,  these  fish,  which  they  want  for  winter  use ;  these  are  split  open  and  the  bones 
taken  out,  leaving  the  skin  with  a  layer  of  meat  upon  it,  which  when  dry  is  about  a  third  of  an 
inch  thick.  These  are  scarified  in  various  directions,  and  then  hung  for  a  short  time  in  the  smoke 
of  a  fire.  They  are  then  hung  on  poles  or  the  branches  of  trees,  where  they  are  freely  exposed 
to  the  wind.  In  a  month  they  become  perfectly  dry,  and  are  then  housed  in  small  store-houses, 
built  much  in  the  shape  of  the  hay  barracks  of  the  eastern  States,  the  floor  upon  which  they  are 
laid  being,  for  security  against  dogs  and  wolves,  raised  about  eight  or  ten  feet  above  the  ground 
boards ;  bark  and  matting  are  placed  over  them  to  secure  them  from  rain,  also  from  the  depreda 
tions  of  the  small  fish  crow  (Corvus  ossifragus.)  Salmon  thus  dried  forms  the  principal  food  of 
the  natives  during  the  winter.  There  is  no  venison,  and  scarcely  any  other  game,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Fort  Colville.  The  fur  trade  with  the  inhabitants  in  its  immediate  neighborhood  amounts  to 
but  little.  Almost  all  of  the  trade  of  this  kind  carried  on  by  this  trading-post  is  through  the 
smaller  forts  it  supplies  in  the  Flathead  and  Kootenaie  country,  or  among  the  tribes  farther  up 
the  main  Columbia.  An  Indian  gave  me  a  list  of  the  various  tribes  and  bands  of  Indians  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Fort  Colville,  and  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  who  speak  dialects  and  varia 
tions  of  the  same  language.  These  dialects  are  still  so  similar  as  to  be  easily  understood  by  any 
of  the  Indians  composing  the  bands. 

Selish,  (Flatheads,)  T-com-oe-loops. 

Spokane,  (Spokanes,)  Ne-com-ap-oe-lox. 

Kalispelm,  (Pend  d'Oreilles,)  Sar-lit-hu,  near  Okinakane. 

Squeer-yer-pe,  (Colville  Indians,)  Squaw- a-tosh. 

Sin-poil-er-hu,  (Sinpoils,)  Sklarkum. 

Wagon  and  railroad  routes  run  through  the  Bitter  Root  and  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains.  The 
result  of  my  observations,  together  with  the  information  I  obtained  from  the  Rev.  Fathers 
Hoecken  and  Joset,  and  from  others,  is  as  follows : 

The  valley  of  the  St.  Mary's  river,  from  the  junction  of  the  Hell  Gate  and  Bitter  Root  rivers 
to  the  Horse  Plain,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Flalhead  or  Pend  d'Oreille  river,  will  admit  of  a  railroad 
line  of  easy  grade ;  but  the  numerous  very  short  curves  obliging  frequent  crossings  by  strong 
bridges,  the  great  length  of  the  route  if  the  river  is  followed,  the  steep  banks  and  the  high- 
raised  work  necessary  to  prevent  the  encroachments  of  the  freshets,  (which  in  many  places 
rise  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  above  the  common  level,)  will  all  render  this  part  of  the  road 
exceedingly  expensive.  On  the  other  hand,  the  character  of  the  rocks  is  such  that,  where  side 
and  deep  cuts  are  required,  quarrying  and  blasting  can  be  readily  done.  From  the  Horse  Plain 
to  the  Cabinet  there  is  a  good,  easy,  natural  grade  on  the  right  bank,  with  fewer  curves  and 
greater  width  of  valley  than  above.  There  are,  of  course,  a  few  obstacles,  one  of  which  is  the 
"Fallen  Mountain;"  but  the  general  aspect  of  this  part  of  the  route  is  good.  At  the  Cabinet  (a 
point  about  twenty  miles  above  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille)  the  river  is  compressed  between  walls  of 
solid  rock  about  one  hundred  feet  high.  Its  width  here  could  readily  be  spanned  by  a  single 
arch,  and  the  road  be  made  to  take  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  After  reaching  Lake  Kalispelm, 
it  could  readily  skirt  the  eastern  and  southern  shore  until  it  reached  a  southern  prolongation  of 
the  lake,  which  extends  about  twenty-five  miles  in  the  direction  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mission,  and 
from  that  fact  is  called  the  C<jeur  d'Alene  bay.  From  the  upper  end  of  this  bay  to  the  Coeur 
d'Alene  lake  there  is  a  very  gentle  rise  and  a  low  divide,  so  low  that  it  might  readily  be  passed 
over  by  a  traveller  without  notice.  From  the  Cosur  d'Alene  lake  to  the  valley  of  the  Spokane 


FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  THE  FLATHEAD  CAMP.  301 

river  there  is  a  good,  natural,  almost  level  grade.  Just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Spokane  river,  on 
the  main  Columbia,  there  are  a  number  of  rock  islands  scattered  across  the  river,  affording  great 
facilities  for  a  bridge  site  in  the  solid  supports  thus  furnished  for  piers  and  abutments.  These 
rock  islands,  stretched  across  the  river,  are  found  at  several  points  between  Fort  Colville  and  the 
Dalles.  Loaded  wagons  have  been  driven  from  the  former  mission  of  St.  Mary's  to  the  Prune 
prairie,  near  the  Horse  Plain.  They  have  also  been  driven  from  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mission  to 
the  lower  end  of  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille.  Between  these  two  points,  a  distance  of  about  one  hun 
dred  and  sixty  miles,  wagons  have  not  as  yet  passed.  This  part  of  the  route,  however,  is  feasi 
ble,  and  could  readily  be  opened.  In  case  this  latter  is  done,  a  wagon  route  would  then  be 
opened  from  Fort  Owen  to  Wallah- Wallah,  from  whence  diverge  other  roads  to  the  Willamette 
and  Dalles,  and  one  across  the  Cascade  mountains  to  Puget  sound. 

I  am,  sir,  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

GEORGE  SUCKLEY. 
Governor  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Charge  of  N.  P.  Railroad  Exploration,  fyc. 


24.  REPORT  OF  AN  EXPLORATION  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  THE  FLATHEAD  CAMP,  BEYOND 
THE  MUSCLE  SHELL  RIVER,  AND  THENCE  BY  THE  SOUTHERN  LITTLE  BLACKFOOT  RIVER  TO 
THE  ST.  MARY'S  VALLEY:  BY  LIEUTENANT  JOHN  MULLAN,  u.  s.  A. 

CANTONMENT  STEVENS,  BITTER  ROOT  VALLEY, 

January  20,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  report  that,  in  conformity  to  your  letter  of  instruction,  dated  at  Fort 
Benton,  September  8,  1853,  directing  me,  with  a  "  select  party,  to  proceed  to  the  camp  of  the 
Flathead  Indians,  then  on  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  one  hundred  and  ten  miles  southeast  of  the 
Missouri,  and  there  procuring  the  most  intelligent  and  reliable  Flathead  guides,  to  make  my  way 
to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  exploring  the  best  pass  to  that  point  across  the  Rocky  mountains  from 
the  headwaters  of  the  Muscle  Shell  river,"  I  left  Fort  Benton  on  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  Sep 
tember,  taking  with  me  as  a  guide  the  "  White  Brave,"  a  Blackfoot  Indian,  Mr.  Rose,  an  employe 
of  the  American  Fur  Company,  as  interpreter,  and  Mr.  Burr,  to  make  a  barometrical  profile  of 
the  route  travelled.  In  addition,  there  were  three  voyageurs  and  two  Blackfeet  Indians.  My 
general  course  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  Muscle  Shell  river  lay  in  a  direction  south  by  east,  by  a 
very  good  road  of  four  days'  journey,  passing  between  the  High  Wood  and  Judith  mountains — 
two  of  the  principal  spurs  of  the  Belt  mountains — crossing  several  prairie  streams  that  empty 
their  waters  into  the  Missouri. 

In  order  to  give  a  correct  and  detailed  report  of  the  general  character  of  the  route  followed 
to  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  thence  westward  across  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  St.  Mary's 
village,  I  have  deemed  it  necessary  and  proper  to  make  such  extracts  from  my  daily  journal  as 
will  tend  to  point  out  routes,  streams,  prominent  landmarks,  and  the  characteristic  features  of 
the  country  passed  over ;  noting  particularly  the  quality  of  the  soils,  the  forest  trees,  grasses, 
quality  and.  quantity  of  water,  and  the  practicability  of  the  route  for  wagon  trains  ;  and  such  facts 
as  my  limited  means  allowed  of  to  show  the  feasibility  of  the  route  for  a  railroad,  as  well  as  all 
others  of  general  interest. 

September  9,  1853. — All  preparations  having  been  made  for  our  departure  at  the  camp  of  the 
main  train  of  the  expedition,  then  on  the  Teton  or  Tansey  river,  we  proceeded  to  Fort  Benton, 
four  miles  distant,  to  procure  certain  Indian  presents  which  we  might  need  on  the  journey,  and  to 
take  a  farewell  leave  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  whose  well-known  hospi 
tality  had  been  extended  towards  us,  and  which  none  could  more  than  ourselves  appreciate. 
Our  route,  for  the  distance  of  five  hundred  yards,  lay  down  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri,  when, 


302  FROM   FORT   BENTON   TO   THE   FLATIIEAD   CAMP. 

finding  a  ford  with  water  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  we  made  the  crossing  in  safety. 
The  Missouri  at  this  point  flows  with  a  rapid  current  over  a  rocky  and  pebbly  bed,  and  is  bounded 
on  each  side  b}^  a  range  of  dark-colored  hills  or  bluffs,  about  100  feet  high  and  destitute  of  timben 
and  which,  on  examination,  proved  to  be  composed  of  dark  sand  and  clay  commingled ;  our 
course  being  a  few  degrees  east  by  south,  and  striking  for  the  Belt  or  Girdle  mountains,  the  base 
of  which  we  reached  at  the  distance  of  twenty-two  miles  from  the  Missouri.  After  journeying 
over  this  prairie  for  a  distance  of  six  or  eight  miles,  we  descended  into  the  valley  of  a  small 
stream  called  the  Shonkee  creek,  which  rises  in  the  Belt  mountains,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri 
about  one  mile  below  Fort  Benton.  It  is  quite  shallow,  and  very  winding  and  tortuous.  The 
valley  of  the  stream  is  three  hundred  yards  wide,  which  during  the  spring  season  is  overflowed 
to  the  depth  of  thirty  feet,  and  with  a  rapid  current.  The  grass  in  this  valley  we  found  to  be  very 
rich  and  luxuriant.  The  stream  itself  is  but  slightly  wooded,  except  at  its  head,  where  the  pine 
is  found  in  abundance,  and  growing  to  a  large  size.  We  crossed  this  creek  five  times  during  the 
day:  fordable  at  each  crossing.  From  the  great  number  of  dams  observed,  we  saw  that  beaver 
in  abundance  are  to  be  found  in  its  waters.  We  continued  up  this  stream — at  times  in  its  valley, 
at  limes  along  the  bluff  that  bounded  it — for  a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  when  we  reached  what 
is  called  the  Grand  Coulee,  running  along  the  base  of  the  northern  slope  of  the  Belt  mountains. 
It  is  half  a  mile  wide,  and  extends  for  many  miles  along  the  base  of  the  mountains.  We  crossed 
this  coulee  and  entered  on  a  broad  level  prairie,  which  extends  to  the  base  of  the  mountains 
towards  the  east.  Here  we  saw  deer,  which  being  very  wild  and  shy,  we  were  unable  to  secure 
one  for  our  night's  repast.  Having  travelled  a  distance  of  twenty-two  miles,  we  encamped  on  a 
clear  cold  stream  running  from  the  Belt  mountains,  where  we  found  good  grass  and  an  abundance 
of  wood. 

At  night  we  took  the  precaution  to  picket  our  animals,  over  which  a  guard  was  placed  until 
daybreak  the  next  morning  ;  for  we  were  now  on  the  great  thoroughfare  of  the  Blackfeet  Indians, 
who,  like  so  many  bloodhounds,  follow  the  tracks  of  the  Flatheads  on  their  roads  to  the  hunt; 
and  this  being  the  highway  between  the  Muscle  Shell  and  Fort  Benton,  the  nearest  trading  post, 
we  felt  the  necessity  of  using  every  precaution  in  securing  our  animals  from  these  treacherous 
and  well-known  horse-thieves.  The  night  was  clear,  mild,  and  pleasant,  but  with  a  very  heavy 
dew.  We  were  not  provided  with  a  tent  during  our  whole  journey  across  the  mountains,  but  we 
slept  on  this  night  as  comfortably,  rolled  up  in  our  blankets,  as  if  we  had  been  resting  under  some 
hospitable  roof  in  more  civilized  climes. 

September  10,  1853. — This  day  commences  mild  and  pleasant ;  the  thermometer,  at  sunrise, 
being  65°  Fahrenheit.  We  resumed  our  march  at  7.30  a.  m.,  our  course  being  in  an  easterly 
direction,  striking  for  the  Butte  Canee  of  the  Belt  range  of  mountains,  which  lay  on  our  course 
to  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  through  a  valley  which  should  have  been  named  the  Dog  Town  valley, 
for  there  were  certainly  more  of  the  prairie  dogs  in  this  valley  than  I  have  ever  seen  in  the  prairie 
before,  yelping  and  barking  like  so  many  bands  of  wolves.  These  prairie  dogs  make  a  most 
excellent  dish,  and  constitute  one  of  the  luxuries  of  the  country.  Our  journey  continued  through 
this  valley  until  noon,  for  a  distance  of  twelve  or  fifteen  miles,  when  we  halted  on  a  fork  of  the 
Arrow  river,  which  rises  in  the  Butte  Canee,  a  prominent  landmark  of  the  Belt  mountains.  A 
spur  of  the  Belt  mountains  we  continued  to  have  to  our  right;  it  is  a  high  and  rugged  range, 
having  a  general  direction  of  east  and  west,  and  about  1,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  valley. 
These  mountains  are  covered  with  a  growth  of  large  pine,  which  is  cut  and  used  by  the  Ameri 
can  Fur  Company  at  Fort  Benton,  and  is  found  to  be  exceedingly  durable,  the  wood  being  found 
principally  on  the  slopes  and  in  the  valleys  of  the  mountains.  I  observed  along  the  sides  of  this 
valley,  or  the  bluffs  that  bound  it,  several  beds  of  slate-colored  rocks,  at  times  of  a  form  resem 
bling  basalt,  and  at  times  in  horizontal  layers  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  thick.  Large  masses 
of  granite  rock  were  also  to  be  seen,  covering,  in  places,  areas  of  several  acres  square,  which, 
being  detached  from  the  mountains  by  the  frosts,  were  lying  strewed  in  every  direction  at  their 


FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  THE  FLATHEAD  CAMP.  303 

base,  many  of  them  having  a  perfectly  rectangular  shape.  We  crossed,  ten  miles  farther,  a  fork 
of  the  Arrow  river,  now  dry,  which  takes  its  rise  in  the  Belt  mountains.  This  butte  referred  to 
rises  to  a  height  of  about  four  hundred  feet  above  the  valley,  and  is  perfectly  flat  or  level  on  the 
top ;  at  its  edges  are  seen  the  outcropping  of  a  dark  gray  columnar  rock  encrusted  in  many  places 
\vith  a  white  salt.  The  slopes  of  this  butte  have  an  inclination  of  seventy-five  degrees,  and  are 
covered,  as  also  at  the  base,  with  cedar  and  scrub-pine.  The  grass  of  this  valley  passed  through, 
up  to  noon,  we  found  dry,  being  buffalo  grass;  but  around  the  margin  of  the  lakes  seen  in  the 
valley  the  grass  is  green,  and  exceedingly  nutritious.  The  soil  is  of  a  light  grayish  color,  as  if 
baked  in  the  sun,  though  covered  with  grass.  There  are  to  be  seen  along  the  northern  side  of 
this  valley  large  beds  of  rock  and  salt,  alternately.  This  salt,  which  I  could  not  examine,  but 
was  told  by  Mr.  Rose,  is  a  species  of  Epsom  salts,  exceedingly  purging  in  its  nature,  and  at  a 
distance  would  appear  as  so  many  large  masses  or  beds  of  snow  glistening  in  the  sun.  We 
found  the  valley  much  cut  up  with  the  holes  of  the  badger,  one  of  which  the  Indians  killed.  I 
would  here  mention  that  these  Indians  of  the  Blackfoot  nation  had  before  visited  the  vicinity  of 
the  Flathead  camp,  with  the  intention,  if  possible,  to  steal  the  horses  of  the  Flatheads;  but  not 
succeeding,  they  placed  themselves  under  our  protection  to  visit  this  camp  on  friendly  terms. 
This  instance  will  show  the  duplicity  to  be  found  at  times  among  the  Indians,  and  especially  among 
the  Blackfoot  nation.  Finding  they  were  unable  to  succeed  as  enemies,  they  were  willing  to  try  it 
as  friends,  and  they  knew  they  were  perfectly  safe  in  visiting  the  camp  of  their  enemy  under  the 
protection  of  the  whites.  Besides,  it  is  reckoned  a  coup  for  them  to  visit  the  camp  of  their 
enemies,  a  number  of  which  visits  makes  a  man  a  chief  or  brave,  in  the  estimation  of  his  people. 
Our  guide,  who  was  also  a  Blackfoot  Indian,  was  acting  under  a  promise.  He  had  engaged  to 
conduct  us  safely  to  the  Flathead  camp,  to  invite  the  principal  men  of  their  nation  to  accompany 
us  across  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  village  of  St.  Mary's,  and  had  engaged  to  conduct  us  across 
the  Rocky  mountains  by  one  of  the  travelled  trails,  when  he  was  promised  to  have  a  letter  to 
the  gentleman  in  charge  of  Fort  Benton,  stating  that  he  had  faithfully  performed  his  duty,  when 
he  would  receive  his  reward.  Had  he  received  it  before  he  had  performed  his  duty,  I  am  con 
vinced  that  he  would  have  left  me  at  the  end  of  the  first  day. 

Unfortunately,  this  morning  I  found  that  the  barometer  used  by  Mr.  Burr  had  become  unfit  for 
service,  which  I  sorely  regretted,  since  I  had  anticipated  having  an  excellent  barometrical  profile 
over  a  new  and  untravelled  route.  At  noon  we  halted  for  one  and  a  half  hours,  when  we 
resumed  our  journey  in  the  same  direction  until  4  p.  m.,  when,  one  of  the  mules  of  Mr.  Rose 
breaking  down,  we  halted,  after  twenty-one  miles'  march,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  main  stream  of 
the  Arrow  river,  which  we  found  to  be  a  small  and  tortuous  stream,  that  takes  its  rise  in  the 
rocky  buttes  of  the  Belt  mountains,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  twenty-five  miles  below  Fort 
Benton.  Its  banks  are  well  wooded,  the  cotton- wood  tree  being  the  most  abundant ;  the  scrub- 
cedar  also  occurring,  though  not  abundantly.  We  found  on  this  river  good  grass  and  wood; 
but  the  water  was  hard  and  brackish. 

The  river  runs  in  a  general  direction  nearly  north  through  a  very  beautiful  valley  that  crossed 
at  right  angles  the  valley  through  which  we  had  been  journeying  all  day.  The  valley  is  lined 
on  each  side  by  high  clay  bluffs,  with  occasional  out-croppings  of  a  dark-colored  rock.  Game 
was  exceedingly  scarce;  prairie  dogs  being  the  only  living  thing  seen,  save  occasionally  a  wolf  or 
an  antelope,  which  latter  would  be  frightened  from  their  beds  at  least  a  mile  in  advance  of  us,  and 
soon  would  be  seen  bounding  off  to  the  mountains  that  limited  our  view  to  the  right  of  the  valley. 
Grass  we  found  to  be  dry,  though  highly  relished  by  the  animals;  the  only  water  seen  was  the 
Wk  of  Arrow  river  that  takes  its  rise  in  the  Square  Butte  of  the  Belt  mountains,  and  a  small 
brook,  about  two  feet  wide,  that  takes  its  rise  from  a  spring  in  the  bluffs  of  the  valley.  We  had 
the  fork  of  Arrow  river  referred  to  to  our  right  until  we  struck  the  main  stream.  During  this 

o  o 

night  we  were  visited  by  an  exceedingly  heavy  rain,  accompanied  by  much  thunder  and  light 
ning,  which  was  concentrated  in  the  western  portion  of  the  horizon.     It  rained  from  9  to  near 


304  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  THE  FLATHEAD  CAMP. 

lip.  m.,  when  it  cleared  off  and  became  beautifully  starlight  till  near  1  a.  m.,  when  it  showered 
heavily  until  near  morning,  giving  some  of  us  a  wet  bed  for  the  night.  This,  however,  was  not 
much  heeded,  for,  being  tired  and  wearied,  we  slept  as  soundly  as  if  on  downy  couches.  I 
would  here  mention,  what  I  have  often  noticed  before  in  this  region,  that  the  season  for  rain  seems 
to  be  the  night — a  thing  somewhat  remarkable.  There  have  been  but  few  exceptions  to  this, 
that  I  have  noticed.  This  for  the  traveller  is  fortunate,  for,  above  all  things,  travelling  in  the 
rain  is  anything  but  comfortable,  though  the  comfort  of  sleeping  in  it  might  be  questioned  by 
some.  What  is  the  cause  of  this  singular  periodical  occurrence  of  the  rain,  has  been  asked  by 
many  who  have  noticed  it.  The  mornings  and  evenings  are  exceedingly  cold ;  the  days  quite 
warm.  The  mornings  at  this  season  are  in  every  respect  similar  to  the  mornings  of  the  month  of 
May  in  the  States  of  Maryland  and  Virginia,  and  the  section  in  the  vicinity.  Though  the  coun 
try  presents  rather  an  uninviting  appearance,  the  grass  is  dry  and  yellow,  and,  being  entirely 
prairie,  it  looks  dreary,  and  at  times  exceedingly  sombre.  I  have  supposed  this  somewhat  sin 
gular  phenomenon  to  arise  from  the  great  difference  of  temperature  of  the  day  and  night;  the 
air,  which  during  the  day  is  rarefied  by  the  heat,  at  night  becomes  suddenly  condensed  and 
returns  to  the  earth  in  the  form  of  rain. 

September  11,  1853. — This  day  commences  mild  and  pleasant;  the  rain  during  the  last  night 
warmed  the  atmosphere  very  much,  which  rendered  this  similar  to  a  summer's  morning,  the 
thermometer  at  sunrise  being  at  60°  Farenheit.  We  resumed  our  march  at  fifteen  minutes  to  7 
a.  m.,  which  lay  for  the  distance  of  a  mile  along  the  Arrow  river;  thence  east,  when  we  entered 
the  "  Mauvaises  Terres,"  a  portion  of  the  same  that  we  found  lower  down  on  the  Missouri.  These 
lands  we  found  to  be  about  two  miles  wide,  and  extending  along  the  Arrow  river  to  the  Missouri. 
They  were  more  rough  and  rugged  than  any  I  had  seen  in  the  prairie  country  bordering  the 
Missouri,  up  which  I  had  travelled  a  distance  of  twenty-one  hundred  miles.  They  are  totally 
destitute  of  timber,  and  present  a  black,  barren  appearance,  being  composed  of  a  mixture  of  sand 
and  clay,  the  clay  predominating ;  the  whole  being  highly  impregnated  with  iron.  In  some 
places  the  ravines  through  these  lands  were  perfectly  awful  to  behold,  descending  to  the  depth  of 
many  hundreds  of  feet.  After  having  ascended  to  the  top  of  a  high  bluff  we  would  be  compelled 
to  descend  a  slope  sometimes  of  sixty  degrees,  and  ascend  another  nearly  as  high,  when  the 
distance  between  the  summit  would  be  but  a  few  yards.  Fortunately  for  us,  these  lands 
extended  but  a  short  distance,  but  even  this  was  very  trying  to  our  animals.  Our  course  after 
leaving  these  bad  lands  lay  over  a  most  beautiful  and  level  prairie,  which  extended  for  many 
miles  in  length  and  ten  or  twelve  miles  in  width,  with  an  occasional  hill  and  valley.  The  grass 
on  this  prairie  we  found  to  be  exceedingly  high,  though  dry.  Arriving  at  the  end  of  this  prairie 
we  came  in  sight  of  the  Judith  mountains,  a  high  range  of  mountains  running  both  west  and  south 
east;  these  mountains  lay  about  eight  miles  distant,  and  to  our  left,  while  the  main  chain  of  the 
Belt  mountains  lay  to  our  right,  and  about  thirty  miles  distant,  having  a  general  direction  of  north 
and  south.  Water  along  the  whole  route  was  exceedingly  scarce,  and  what  we  found  was  very 
brackish.  Wood  we  found  none  since  leaving  the  Arrow  river.  No  game  was  to  be  seen  save 
three  buffalo  bulls,  one  of  which  the  Indians  with  us  succeeded  in  killing;  they  saw  him  for  a 
distance  of  five  miles  before  securing  him,  and  when  secured  he  turned  out  to  be  so  poor  and 
lean  as  to  be  unfit  to  eat,  save  his  haunch  and  tongue,  which  they  brought  to  us.  Our  journey  lay 
a  little  to  the  south  of  east  during  the  whole  of  the  day  till  we  struck  a  tributary  of  the  Judith 
river,  which  tributary  takes  its  rise  in  the  main  chain  of  the  Belt  mountains;  the  fork  or  tributary 
we  found  to  contain  but  little  water,  which  lay  in  pools,  and  was  very  unpalatable.  We  jour 
neyed  on  for  six  miles  farther,  camping  on  a  second  tributary  of  the  Judith  river  that  rises  in  the 
same  chain  of  mountains.  The  main  stream  of  Judith  river  takes  its  rise  in  the  Belt  mountains, 
and  empties  into  the  Missouri  near  three  thousand  miles  above  its  mouth.  About  noon  of  this 
day  we  observed  it  raining  heavily  in  the  Belt  mountains,  while  it  was  clear  arid  beautiful  in  the 
prairie  over  which  we  were  journeying.  Our  march  on  this  day  was  about  twenty-two  miles  to 


FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  THE  FLATHEAD  CAMP.  305 

the  second  fork  of  the  Judith  river,  which  was  somewhat  similar  to  the  first  above  mentioned ;  it 
contained  but  little  water,  and  that  brackish.     The  grass  here  we  found  to  be  good,  but  no  wood 
was  to  be  seen  for  miles  around;  there  were  a  few  willows  growing  in  places  on  the  banks  of  the 
fork,  which,  in  addition  to  furnishing  us  fuel  for  cooking,  were  made  use  of  by  the  Indians  for 
building  a  shelter  from  the  dew  and  rain.     The  ends  of  the  longer  ones  they  would  sharpen  and 
stick  into  the  ground,  bending  them  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle.     These  willow  houses,   the 
remains  of  which  are  often  seen  in  the  prairies,  afford  a  very  comfortable  lodging,  and  withstand 
the  effect  of  the  heaviest  rains  or  winds.     The  valley  of  the  tributary  of  the  Judith  river  on 
which  we  encamped  is  about  five  hundred  yards  wide,  the  river  being  exceedingly  tortuous. 
The  grass  in  the  valley,  which   was  the  buffalo  grass,  we  found  to  be  very  abundant,  and  it 
proved  for  our  animals  to  be  exceedingly  nutritious.     Up  to  12  p.  m.  was  beautiful,  with  a  pleas 
ant  moonlight,  when  it  commenced  raining  and  continued  for  two  hours  in  torrents,  which  gave 
each  of  us  a  wet  and  uncomfortable  bed  for  the  remainder  of  the  night;  at  2  a.  m.  it  cleared  off 
and  became  a  beautiful  starlight  morning.     The  wolves,  as  usual,  gave  us  their  nightly  serenade. 
September  12,  1853. — Monday  commences  mild  and    pleasant,  the  thermometer  47°  Fah.     We 
resumed  our  journey  at  twenty  minutes  to  7  a.  m. ;  our  course  being  in  a  direction  south  of  east, 
over  a  very  beautiful  and  level  prairie  road.     The  grass  on  the  prairie,  and   even  in  the  valley, 
we  found  very  dry  ;  water,  as  yesterday,  being  exceedingly  scarce  until  we  struck  the   main 
branch  of  Judith  river,  which,  taking  its  rise  in  the  main  chain  of  the  Belt  mountains,  we  found 
to  be  a  stream  of  most  beautifully  clear,  cold  water,  with  a  rapid  current,  the  water  being  from 
eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  deep;  its  banks  also,  as  far  as  I  could  observe  in  either  direction,  were 
of  a  gravelly  formation.      This  stream  winds  through  a  very  beautiful  but  narrow  valley,  which, 
during  high  water,  is  the  bed  of  the  stream.     The  eastern  portion  of  the  Belt  mountains  being 
called  the  Judith  mountains,  might  lead  one  to  suppose  that  the  Judith  river  takes  its  rise  in  the 
Judith  mountains,  but  such  is  not  the  case.     On  our  road  the  so-called  Judith  mountains  lay  to 
our  left,  while  the  main  chain  of  the  Girdle  or  Belt  mountains  lay  to  our  right.     The  low  ranges 
might  with  propriety  have  no  separate  and  distinct  names,  as  they  are  separated  by  a  gap  or  pass 
fifteen  or  sixteen  miles  wide ;  but  when  taken  together  they  form  a  belt  or  girdle,  the  concavity  of 
which  is  turned  towards  the  north.     The  name  has  been   applied  to  them  of  the  Girdle  or  Belt 
mountains.     Five  or  six  miles  farther  we  struck  another  tributary  of  the  Judith  river,  coming  from 
the  west  with  a  rapid  current,  being  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  wide ;  water  clear  and  cool,  and 
very  excellent.     The  grass  on  this  stream  we  found  to  be  good,  its  banks  being  totally  unwooded. 
I  saw   in   the   distance  still  another  tributary  coming  from  the  so-called  Judith  mountains,  on 
the  banks  of  which  were  scattered  a  few  pines  and  cotton-woods.     The  grass  on  the  Judith  river 
where  we  made  the  crossing  was  not  good;  its  banks  are  unwooded,  both  where  we  crossed  it 
and  as  far  up  and  down  as  we  could  see.     The  Judith  mountains,  as  also  the  approaches  to 
them,  are  well  wooded — the  pine  tree  abounding.     At  12  m.  we  halted  on  the  main  tributary  to 
the  Judith  mountains,  where  \ve  remained  an  hour  and  a  half,  having  travelled  a  distance  of  sev 
enteen  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night.     Just  before  reaching  this  tributary,  we  saw  to  our 
front,  and  at  a  distance  of  five  or  six  miles,  a  large  band  of  buffalo  coming  towards  us,  which 
caused  us  to  think  we  were  approaching  the  Flathead  camp.    Game  we  found  to  be  more  abundant 
than  on  any  day  since  leaving  the  Missouri.     We  succeeded  in  securing  four  buffalo,  which  were 
killed  by  the  Indians  with  us.     Elk  in  large  bands,  and  many  ducks,  were  seen  during  the  day. 
Resuming  our  journey  along  the  last  mentioned  tributary  of  the  Judith  river,  our  course  lay  over 
a  beautiful  and  level  prairie,  the  grass  of  which  was  abundant  and  excellent.     Still  continuing 
to  have  the  main  chain  of  the  Belt  mountains  to  our  right,  and  the  Judith  mountains  to  our  left, 
at  half-past  4  p.  m.  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Snow  mountains,  a  range  south  of  the  Muscle  Shell, 
which  at  a  distance  appears  higher  than  either  the  Belt  or  the  Judith  mountains,  and  whose 
snow-capped  peaks  now  towered  high  above  the  surrounding  country.     At  the  same  time,  we 
struck  a  small  stream  with  an  exceedingly  rapid  current,  taking  its  rise  in  the  Judith  mountains, 


306  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  THE  FLATHEAD  CAMP. 

which  we  called  Buffalo  creek,  from  the  great  numbers  of  buffalo  seen  on  its  banks.  This  stream 
was  nnwooded,  ils  water  being  clear,  cool,  and  limpid,  in  which  were  to  be  seen  great  numbers 
of  mountain  trout,  some  of  which  our  Indians  succeeded  in  catching.  The  grass  along  its 
borders  was  excellent  and  green.  Our  camp  of  this  night  was  at  the  foot  of  the  largest  peak  of 
the  main  chain  of  the  Judith  mountains.  About  8  p.  m.  we  were  startled  by  the  approach  from 
the  mountains  of  a  large  grizzly  bear,  that  came  running  with  full  speed  into  our  camp.  The 
horses  were  frightened,  and  were  preparing  for  a  stampede,  when  their  picket-ropes  held  them 
fast.  Mr.  Rose,  who  was  on  watch  at  the  time,  and  our  Indians,  had  secured  their  guns;  but 
seeing  them,  he  turned  to  the  right,  and  soon  was  seen  scampering  away  across  the  prairie.  The 
night  was  exceedingly  mild  and  beautiful,  the  moon  shining  clear  and  bright  till  after  12  p.  in. 
Our  camp  was  a  scene  of  feasting  and  good  cheer,  having  killed  an  abundance  of  buffalo  during 
the  day  ;  the  meat  at  night  was  served  up  boiled,  baked,  roasted,  and  fried.  This  was  a  grand 
season  for  the  Indians;  they  sat  up  half  the  night  aroung  the  camp-fires,  cooking — our  fuel  con 
sisting  of  the  wood  left  by  a  Blackfoot  camp.  The  Judith  mountains  are  a  great  resort  for  the 
Blackfeet  Indians  during  the  summer  season,  as  game  of  all  kinds  is  found  in  abundance  ;  and 
here,  too,  they  procure  poles  for  their  travels  and  lodges,  and  everywhere  were  to  be  seen  their 
old  camping-grounds,  one  of  which  was  chosen  by  our  guide  for  our  night's  camp,  as  there  was 
here  found  an  abundance  of  wood. 

Having  then  plenty  of  wood  and  an  abundance  of  meat,  the  Indians  had  no  difficulty  in  serving 
up  for  themselves  a  rich  repast;  and  around  the  high  blazing  fires  were  to  be  seen  roasting  the 
fat  tender-loin  ribs,  and  all  the  choice  pieces  of  the  buffalo,  in  addition  to  the  many  ducks  killed 
during  the  day.  They  rested  content  and  perfectly  happy. 

September  13,  1853. — Commences  mild  and  pleasant,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  53° 
Fahrenheit.  On  rising  this  morning  we  found  our  camp  surrounded  by  buffalo,  so  numerous 
were  they  in  this  vicinity.  Between  the  main  chains  of  the  Girdle  and  Judith  mountains,  and 
near  the  gap  between  them,  is  a  large  and  beautiful  prairie,  well  grassed,  with  numerous  streams 
flowing  through  it,  where  the  buffalo  congregate  in  vast  numbers;  so  that  the  traveller  may  be 
well  assured  to  find  an  abundance  of  game,  both  of  the  buffalo  and  antelope,  as  large  bands  of 
the  latter  were  to-day  seen  along  the  margin  of  the  \vestern  tributary  of  the  Judith  river,  which 
are  so  tame  and  gentle  as  to  allow  the  hunter  to  approach  them  within  a  very  few  yards,  so 
unconscious  of  danger  are  they,  and  which,  when  frightened,  run  off  a  few  yards,  stop,  and  look 
their  pursuers  in  the  face  with  the  greatest  curiosity.  They  are  often  killed  by  the  hunter,  who, 
after  following  them  for  some  time,  crouches  himself  in  the  grass,  when  they  will  turn  back  to 
see  what  has  happened,  when,  on  reaching  within  killing  distance,  they  often  become  victims  to 
the  unerring  rifle. 

Our  course  lay  this  morning,  till  near  noon,  a  few  degrees  east  of  south  :  first,  over  a  partially 
broken  country,  and  then  over  a  most  beautiful  and  large  prairie  tint  extends  from  the  Muscle 
Shell  river  to  within  thirty  miles  of  a  spur  of  the  Girdle  mountains,  covered  with  very  fine  grass. 
We  had  this  morning  a  very  fine  view  of  the  Snow  mountains,  which  rear  their  lofty  snow-cov 
ered  summits  far  above  the  country  for  miles  around.  Game  we  found  on  this  day  exceedingly 
abundant — the  hills  and  prairies,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  being  perfectly  alive  and  black 
with  buffalo:  not  less  than  from  ten  to  twenty  thousand  might  be  seen  in  bands  running  over  the 
prairies.  One  of  our  Indians  ran  into  a  large  band,  and,  having  selected  one  of  the  fattest,  he 
singled  him  out  from  the  rest  and  brought  him  down  immediately  on  our  pathway.  We  were  not 
in  want  of  game  this  day,  as  we  killed,  during  the  morning,  two  large  buck  antelopes,  the  meat  of 
which  we  found  exceedingly  fine:  this,  with  the  buffalo,  made  us  an  abundant  supper  at  night. 

We  nooned  this  day  at  the  source  of  a  small  stream  that  empties  into  the  Muscle  Shell  river, 
after  having  made  a  journey  of  twelve  miles.  During  the  afternoon  our  journey  lay  over  the 
prairie  already  mentioned,  to  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  which  we  reached  at  5  p.  m.,  making  five 
days  from  Fort  Benton,  where  we  struck  the  river.  I  estimated  it  to  be  one  hundred  and  thirty 


FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    THE   FLATIIEAD    CAMP.  307 

miles  from  the  fort.  This  river  is  a  wide  and  deep  stream,  that  rises  in  the  Belt  mountains, 
which  here  form  the  most  eastern  range  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri 
just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Judith  river.  It  winds  through  a  most  beautiful  valley  of  ten  miles 
in  width,  the  grass  of  which  wre  found  very  high,  excellent,  and  green.  This  river  is  about  forty 
to  fifty  yards  wide,  and  between  two  and  four  feet  deep,  with  a  very  rapid  current;  the  current 
is  much  more m  so  where  we  struck  it  than  that  of  the  Missouri  itself.  The  stream  during  the 
high-water  season,  judging  from  the  portion  of  the  bed  at  present  dry,  is  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  yards  wide;  the  water  is  perfectly  clear  and  limpid.  This  stream  is  exceedingly  well 
wooded,  the  trees  growing  in  the  greatest  abundance  on  its  banks  being  cotton-wood,  willow,  and 
wild  cherry.  Where  we  struck  the  river,  which  was  below  its  two  forks  about  one  mile,  the  bed 
of  the  stream  has  a  gravelly  bottom.  Large  quantities  of  gravel  are  also  to  be  found  on  its 
banks,  forming  in  some  places  a  purely  gravel  formation.  About  five  miles  before  striking  the 
Muscle  Shell  we  found  a  large  bed  of  gray  sandstone  that  outcropped  from  the  bluffs  or  hills  of 
the  prairie,  which  was  highly  impregnated  with  iron.  This  has  been  the  only  rock  that  has 
been  observed  since  leaving  the  Highwood  mountains. 

The  night  of  this  day  was  mild  and  pleasant ;  very  little  frost  during  the  night,  but  towards 
morning  it  became  very  cold. 

September  14,  1853. — Commences  very  cold  and  cloudy.  At  half  past  4  a.  m.  the  thermometer 
stood  at  38°  Fah.,  the  appearance  of  the  clouds  in  the  west  giving  indications  of  rain.  The  air 
i'rom  the  Snow  mountains  this  morning  we  found  exceedingly  chilly,  making  an  overcoat  quite 
comfortable.  We  resumed  our  march  at  6.30  a.  m.  During  the  evening  of  the  previous  day  we 
examined  to  see  if  the  Flathead  camp  had  passed  the  Muscle  Shell  below  the  point  where  we 
struck  it.  Our  guide  examined  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  finding  no  trail  on  either  side,  we 
concluded  that  their  camp  must  be  still  up  the  river.  We  had  heard  they  were  on  the  river, 
above  the  forks ;  so  we  turned  our  horses'  heads  up  the  river  in  search  of  their  camp,  which 
course  we  pursued  for  four  miles,  when  we  found  unmistakable  evidence  that  they  had  gone  down 
the  river.  Retracing  our  steps,  we  followed  the  river  along  the  left  bank  for  nineteen  miles,  to 
our  noon  halt.  After  journeying  six  miles  below  our  camp  of  last  night,  we  fell  upon  a  camping 
ground  of  the  Flatheads,  which  we  supposed  they  had  left  about  three  days  before.  About  the 
same  distance  farther  down  we  fell  upon  a  second  camp  they  had  left,  where  we  had  nooned. 

The  valley  of  the  Muscle  Shell  river  still  continues  to  be  well  grassed  and  well  wooded,  the 
cotton- wood  still  abounding;  the  stream  retaining  its  general  width.  When  journeying  down  the 
river,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  fork  from  the  southwest  that  rises  in  the  snow  mountains.  The 
northwestern  fork  takes  its  rise  in  the  main  chain  of  the  Belt  mountains.  The  southern  fork  is 
well  wooded,  by  which  means  you  can  trace  it  far  along  in  the  distance,  as  it  rounds  through 
the  valley  to  the  base  of  the  mountains. 

At  our  nooning  of  the  day,  there  was  to  our  left,  rising  from  the  bluffs  of  the  valley  of  the  river, 
a  high  and  wooded  ridge,  extending  to  the  Highwood  mountains,  the  wood  being  principally  of 
pine. 

Having  found  that  the  trail  of  the  Flatheads  crossed  the  Muscle  Shell,  we  passed  to  the  opposite 
bank,  when  we  entered  a  very  rough  and  rugged  country,  crossing  a  short  prairie  in  the  interval. 
About  two  or  three  miles  after  leaving  the  Muscle  Shell  we  passed  a  high  ridge  of  rocks,  covered 
with  pine.  This  ridge  was  about  three  hundred  feet  high  above  the  valley.  This  was  only  the 
commencement  of  the  bad  lands  that  extended  back  from  the  river  for  a  distance  of  many  miles. 
Ascending  a  high  peak  in  following  the  trail,  we  could  see  far  into  the  distance,  but  no  sign  whatever 
of  the  Flatheads  met  our  view.  The  appearance  of  the  trail  indicated  that  it  was  at  least  six 
days  old.  I  here  concluded  that  with  my  pack-animals  it  would  be  impossible  for  us  to  overtake 
them  at  our  present  rate  of  travelling,  so  we  went  into  camp,  which  I  placed  in  charge  of  Mr. 
Burr,  and  early  the  next  morning  started  with  the  Piegan  guide,  mounted  on  two  of  our  best 
horses,  in  search  of  their  camp.  This  we  followed  for  a  distance  of  about  eighty  miles  southeast 


308  FLATHEAD    CAMP. 

of  the  Muscle  Shell,  when  we  found  them  encamped  in  a  very  beautiful  valley,  formed  by  the 
rocky  bluffs  of  a  deep  ravine. 

The  first  few  miles  of  the  journey  lay  over  a  very  rough  and  rugged  country,  that  led  through 
a  deep,  wide  valley,  which  was  bounded  on  .each  side  by  high,  steep,  rocky  hills.  This  rock 
was  hard  sandstone,  the  strata  of  which  were  horizontal.  This  formation  I  could  trace  by  its 
exposure  for  many  miles,  which  extended  back  inlo  the  prairie.  About  fifty  miles  from  the 
Muscle  Shell  the  country  changes  into  a  large  and  beautiful  prairie,  which  is  dotted  by  many 
large  and  beautiful  lakes,  in  which  we  found  the  greatest  abundance  of  ducks  and  geese.  Much 
game  of  every  kind  was  to  be  found  through  this  portion  of  the  country.  No  streams  were  to  be 
seen — in  fact  no  water,  save  that  of  the  lakes,  and  the  very  many  coulees  to  be  found  through 
the  whole  section  of  the  country.  About  7  o'clock  of  this  day  we  neared  the  Indian  camp.  Their 
horses  I  could  see  at  the  distance  of  many  miles,  being  so  very  numerous.  I  took  them,  to  be  a 
large  band  of  buffalo ;  but  by  a  nearer  approach,  and  with  the  aid  of  my  glass,  I  soon  saw  they 
were  horses.  When  the  guide  and  myself  had  reached  their  camp,  three  or  four  men  met  us  at 
the  entrance,  and  invited  us  to  enter  the  lodge  of  the  chief.  They  very  kindly  took  care  of  our 
horses,  unsaddling  and  watering  them.  As  soon  as  the  camp  had  heard  of  the  arrival  of  a  white 
man  among  them,  the  principal  men  of  the  tribe  congregated  in  the  lodge  of  the  chief.  When 
they  had  all  assembled,  by  a  signal  from  their  chief  they  offered  up  a  prayer.  This  astonished 
me ;  it  was  something  for  which  I  had  not  been  prepared.  Every  one  was  upon  his  knees,  and 
in  the  most  solemn  and  reverential  manner  offered  up  a  prayer  to  God.  For  a  moment  I  asked 
myself,  was  I  among  Indians?  Was  I  among  those  termed  by  everyone  savages'?  I  could 
scarcely  realize  it.  To  think  that  these  men  should  be  thus  imbued,  and  so  deeply  too,  with  the 
principles  of  religion,  was  to  me  overwhelming. 

After  the  prayer,  I  asked  if  there  was  any  one  in  the  camp  who  could  speak  English.  This 
question  to  them  was  like  Hebrew;  they  understood  me  not.  I  then  asked,  in  French,  if  there 
was  any  one  who  could  speak  French.  At  this,  one  spoke  up  that  he  could.  Imagine  my  feel 
ings  of  joy  at  this.  It  fully  and  amply  repaid  me  for  the  many  and  frequent  annoyances  that  I 
had  met  with  in  studying  the  language,  for  I  had  started  without  an  interpreter,  trusting  to  fortune 
to  find  some  one  who  could  understand  me.  1  requested  him  to  act  as  my  interpreter  for  the 
remainder  of  his  tribe.  He  was  a  full-blooded  Flathead,  and  he  told  me  he  had  learned  to  speak 
French  on  the  prairie,  among  the  French  Canadians  and  the  French  half-breeds.  I  explained 
to  him  in  detail  the  object  of  my  visit  to  their  camp ;  that  I  had  come  among  them  having  a 
message  from  their  father,  which  came  from  the  Great  Father,  who  requested  them  to  send  their 
principal  chiefs  and  braves  to  meet  their  agent  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  that  I  desired 
them  to  accompany  me  to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  west  of  the  mountains;  that  my  sole  purpose 
among  them  was  for  the  good  and  welfare  of  their  tribe,  and  I  explained  to  them  the  benefit  and 
necessity  of  some  of  them  going  with  me.  The  chief  told  me  that  he  would  let  me  know  in  the 
morning  what  he  thought  of  it,  and  had  in  the  meanwhile  prepared  for  me  a  supper  of  boiled 
buffalo-tongues,  and  a  bed  of  buffalo-robes,  upon  which  I  slept  soundly  till  morning,  when  I  was 
aroused  by  the  same  men,  who  had  assembled  before  I  had  arisen,  singing  and  praying.  The 
interpreter  being  present  with  the  remainder,  I  asked  him  what  the  chief  thought  of  my  propo 
sition  that  some  of  the  chiefs  should  accompany  me.  He  said  he  was  opposed  to  it;  but  that  he, 
with  all  his  lodges,  would  move  off'  to  see  the  Governor,  killing  game  on  the  road.  He  said  that 
they  had  crossed  the  mountains  to  kill  meat  for  the  winter  for  themselves  and  family,  and  that 
they  could  not  think  of  going  singly.  I  explained  to  him  the  impossibility  of  his  seeing  the 
Governor  at  all  by  travelling  with  all  his  lodges,  for  he  would  necessarily  be  compelled  to  travel 
slowly,  and  that  I  desired  to  travel  quickly  in  order  to  arrive  west  of  the  mountains  in  good  sea 
son.  I  told  him  it  was  not  absolutely  necessary  for  him  to  go,  but  that  he  could  send  some  of 
his  principal  men.  Finally,  after  much  persuasion,  this  he  consented  to  do,  and  said  he  would 
give  me  five,  who  were  accordingly  ordered  to  accompany  me ;  one,  however,  of  the  number,  not 


FROM   THE   FLATHEAD   CAMP   TO   ST.   MARY^S   VALLEY.  309 

placing  so  much  reliance  in  what  I  had  told  them  as  the  remainder,  turned  back,  and  the  re 
mainder  of  them  followed  me  to  my  camp.  When  we  arrived  next  day,  having  travelled  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  the  search  for  them,  I  remarked  the  great  affection  displayed  in 
their  parting;  they  bid  their  families  and  friends  a  most  affectionate  farewell — something  that  is 
not  always  to  be  seen  amongst  Indians.  They  had  with  them  one  hundred  and  twenty  lodges, 
being  Flatheads  and  Pend  d'Oreilles;  only  fifty  lodges,  however,  being  Flatheads.  There  were 
seven  lodges,  with  Victor,  their  principal  chief,  on  their  way  to  St.  Mary's  village.  The  Flat- 
heads  are  a  fine-looking,  noble  race  of  Indians;  they  have  conformed  more  to  the  customs  of  the 
whites  than  any  Indians  west  of  the  mountains.  But  they  show  the  Indian  still;  they  are  profuse 
in  the  use  of  paint,  and  are  great  lovers  of  beads,  and  are  fond  of  trinkets,  gewgaws,  and  orna 
ments  of  every  kind.  The  women  are  kept  in  the  same  wretched  state  of  drudgery  as  the 
women  of  all  other  tribes  of  Indians;  they  pack  and  unpack  the  horses,  pitch  and  strike  the 
lodges,  cook,  carry  wood,  water,  and,  in  fact,  do  everything  there  but  hunt.  Their  young  men 
are  fine-looking  and  athletic,  and  exceedingly  intelligent.  I  asked  them  if  they  had  any  troubles 
to  complain  of,  and,  save  with  the  Blackfeet,  they  said  no.  They  say  that  were  it  not  for  this  bad 
nation  they  could  live  happy  and  contented;  but  these,  their  enemies,  make  incursions  into  their 
country,  carry  off  their  horses,  kill  off  their  men,  and  all  this  without  provocation.  They  repre 
sent  that  with  the  whites  they  are  always  at  peace,  and  are  always  glad  to  see  or  meet  with 
them,  and  look  upon  it  as  a  bright  spot  in  their  history  that  they  have  never  as  yet  shed  white 
man's  blood,  and  they  could  not  see  why  their  interests  by  the  whites  were  so  much  neglected. 
They  said  they  desired  to  have  a  general  peace  with  all  the  Indians,  both  east  and  west  of  the 
mountains,  and  that  they  expected  much,  very  much  good,  through  the  interposition  of  their  agent; 
they  spoke  very  sagely  and  very  affectingly,  and  felt  all  they  said.  They  have  little  or  no  gesture 
in  speaking,  but,  as  among  all  Indians,  express  themselves  to  a  great  extent  in  signs.  Four  of  the 
five  came  with  me,  but  the  other,  thinking  it  was  all  a  hoax,  started  back;  but  the  four,  arriving 
at  my  camp,  partook  of  an  excellent  supper,  and  after  their  usual  smoke  were  perfectly  contented 
and  happy,  and  appeared  much  more  willing  to  accompany  me  than  to  return  to  their  camp. 

September  18,  1853. — Commences  very  cold  and  windy,  the  thermometer  being  38°.  The 
Snow  mountains,  which  lay  in  full  view  this  morning,  are  covered  to  near  their  bases  with 
snow;  the  wind,  blowing  immediately  from  them,  is  cold  and  chilly.  Having  remained  in  camp 
three  days  and  four  nights,  our  animals  recruited  very  much,  and  were  well  prepared  to  withstand 
a  long  day's  march.  Resuming  our  journey  this  morning,  I  noticed  that  our  guide  showed  an 
evident  disposition  of  unwillingness  to  accompany  me  farther.  Through  the  interpreter  he  had 
asked  me  to  release  nim  from  his  engagement,  and  to  allow  him  to  return  to  his  home.  This  I 
refused  to  do.  I  told  him  that  he  had  engaged  with  Governor  Stevens  to  conduct  us  to  the  Flat- 
head  camp,  thence  to  the  village  of  St.  Mary's,  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  that  he  must 
fulfil  his  engagement  before  leaving.  He  appeared  very  sullen,  and  promised  to  accompany  us 
to  the  end  of  our  journey.  When  everything  was  ready,  I  told  him  to  mount  his  horse  and  come 
on;  he  said  he  wished  to  smoke,  and  that  he  would  overtake  us  in  a  short  time.  Presuming  that 
he  had  fully  made  up  his  mind  to  accompany  us,  I  thought  nothing  of  it,  but  rode  on  without  him; 
we  have  not  seen  him  since.  I  only  regretted  that  he  had  not  received  a  cudgelling  before  leav 
ing.  Our  Flathead  guides,  however,  proved  this  day  invaluable,  and  gave  promise  to  conduct 
us  quickly  and  safely  across  the  mountains.  Our  journey  lay  up  the  valley  of  the  right  bank  of 
the  Muscle  Shell  river.  We  struck  one  of  its  forks  coming  in  from  the  south,  upon  which  we 
nooned  eight  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  main  stream.  This  fork,  or  tributary,  flows  through 
a  beautiful  and  well-grassed  valley  of  two  and  a  half  miles  in  width.  The  stream,  with  a  rapid 
current,  is  at  present  only  ten  yards  wide,  with  a  gravelly  bottom,  well  wooded  to  its  source  in 
the  Snow  mountains,  the  cotton- wood  occurring  in  great  abundance.  Extending  for  a  long  dis 
tance  on  the  right  bank  of  this  fork  is  a  bed  of  lignite,  of  twenty-five  feet  in  thickness.  From  this 
fork  our  trail  led  over  a  very  excellent  road  for  twelve  miles,  till  we  struck  the  main  stream  of 


310  FROM   THE   FLATHEAD   CAMP   TO   ST.   MARY'S   VALLEY. 

the  Muscle  Shell,  crossing  in  the  mean  while  several  prairie  streamlets  that  empty  their  waters 
into  the  Muscle  Shell.  Travelling  up  the  river  four  miles  farther,  we  encamped  on  its  right  bank, 
finding  an  abundance  of  grass,  wood,  and  water.  Game,  to-day,  was  very  abundant.  Buffalo 
in  large  bands,  antelope,  elk,  geese,  and  ducks  were  seen  during  the  day.  The  night  of  the  day 
was  mild  and  beautiful  till  towards  daybreak,  when  it  became  cool  and  chilly  from  the  Snow 
mountains. 

September  19,  1863. — Commences  clear  and  cool;  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  24£0.  We  re 
sumed  our  journey  at  6  a.  m.,  following  up  the  valley  of  the  northwest  fork  of  the  Muscle  Shell, 
which  on  this  day  we  found  much  less  wooded  than  that  already  travelled,  still  continuing,  how 
ever,  well  grassed.  The  Belt  mountains  to-day  approach  quite  close  to  the  banks  of  the  Muscle 
Shell  on  the  north.  We  saw  plainly  to-day  that  the  Snow  mountains  are  not  a  separate  and  dis 
tinct  range,  but  form  a  part  of  the  Girdle  or  Belt  mountains,  and  are  called  the  Snow  mountains 
when  the  range  crosses  the  Muscle  Shell,  where  they  increase  in  elevation  to  such  an  extent  that 
many  of  the  higher  peaks  are  always  covered  with  snow;  hence  the  name  that  has  been  applied 
to  them  of  the  Snow  mountains.  The  range  of  the  Belt  mountains  running  along  the  Muscle 
Shell,  taken  in  connexion  with  the  spur  along  the  Missouri  opposite  Fort  Benton,  and  the  range 
running  from  the  Missouri  to  the  Muscle  Shell,  form  the  two  parallel  sides,  and  diagonal  of  a 
parallelogram,  the  diagonal  having  a  general  direction  of  northwest  and  southeast.  The  country 
south  of  the  Muscle  Shell,  extending  to  the  base  of  the  Snow  mountains,  is  very  rugged  and 
broken,  while  that  to  the  north,  towards  the  Belt  mountains,  is  partially  wooded,  and  rises  grad 
ually  from  the  Muscle  Shell  river  to  the  base  of  the  mountains.  We  passed  this  morning  the 
mouth  of  the  southwest  fork,  coming  from  the  Snow  mountains,  which  was  well  wooded,  and  as 
large  and  rapid  as  the  northwest  fork,  with  which  it  made  an  angle  of  38°.  By  following  along 
this  southwestern  fork  you  strike  the  Missouri  at  or  near  the  gate  of  the  mountains,  and  cross  the 
main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  by  following  up  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri.  On  the 
left  bank  of  the  river  we  noticed  this  morning  a  rock  formation,  occurring  in  thin  layers,  similar 
to  that  about  sixty  miles  south  of  the  Muscle  Shell.  As  a  general  thing,  the  banks  of  the  Muscle 
Shell  and  those  of  its  tributaries  are  of  a  clay  formation  mingled  with  much  gravel,  the  bed  of 
the  stream  being  also  gravelly  and  rocky.  Having  travelled  a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  we 
nooned  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  where  we  found  excellent  grass,  but  no  wood ;  which  latter 
seems  to  be  more  scarce  the  farther  we  travel  up  the  river.  At  2  p.  m.  we  resumed  our  march, 
continuing  along  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  over  a  very  level  and  beautiful  prairie  that  extended 
to  the  base  of  the  Girdle  mountains,  which  at  this  point  cross  the  main  stream  or  northwest  fork 
of  the  Muscle  Shell,  arid  run  towards  the  south  for  three  or  four  miles,  crossing  the  southwest 
fork,  where,  bending  more  to  the  east,  making  an  angle  of  30°  with  the  main  river,  they  become 
the  Snow  mountains.  After  travelling  six  miles  farther,  our  trail  lay  through  a  pass  in  the  Belt 
mountains,  formed  by  the  valley  of  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  which  we  followed  to  our  night's 
camp,  crossing  the  river  at  its  head  branches,  several  of  which  are  unwooded,  the  grass  of  the 
valley  being  excellent.  The  mountains  on  each  side  of  the  valley  of  the  northwest  fork  are  about 
1,000  feet  high,  well  clad  with  the  yellow  and  spruce  pine,  growing  to  a  height  of  seventy-five 
feet,  perfectly  straight,  and  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  inches  in  diameter  near  the  ground.  The 
mountains  are  formed  of  a  cream-colored,  unstratified  rock,  exposures  of  which  would  be  seen 
at  times  along  the  slopes.  The  willow,  in  great  abundance,  is  found  on  the  banks  of  the  head 
branches  of  the  stream  growing  to  a  height  of  six  and  eight  feet.  We  camped  to-night  on  the 
left  b;mk  of  the  stream,  having  marched  thirty-five  miles. 

September  20,  1853. — Commences  cool  and  clear,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  24°;  frost 
last  night  was  exceedingly  heavy,  covering  the  ground  like  a  coating  of  snow.  Our  camp  of  last 
night  being  in  the  valley  of  one  of  the  head  branches  of  the  Muscle  Shell,  with  high  mountains 
on  each  side,  it  is  possible  that  we  had  frost  much  heavier  than  if  we  had  been  on  the  plains. 
We  resumed  our  march  this  morning  at  7  a.  m.,  our  trail  being  over  a  very  excellent  road  along 


FROM   THE   FLATIIEAD   CAMP   TO   ST.    MARY'S   VALLEY.  311 

the  left  bank  of  the  head  branch  of  the  Muscle  Shell,  on  which  we  encamped,  for  about  two 
miles,  where,  leaving  it  to  our  right,  our  course  lay  to  the  west  over  a  prairie  road  at  the  base  of 
the  slope  of  the  range  of  mountains  to  our  left.  After  passing  over  this  well-grassed  prairie 
road,  which  formed  the  divide  of  the  valley,  we  fell  upon  the  headwaters  of  a  stream  flowing 
towards  the  west  and  emptying  into  the  Missouri,  which,  from  its  general  character,  valley,  bed, 
and  direction,  we  took  to  be  the  Smith's  river  of  Lewis  and  Clark;  it  is  called  by  the  Indians 

.     It  rises  in  the  western  slope  of  the  mountains,  receiving  tributaries,  small  but  rapid, 

from  many  points  in  the  mountains  on  the  north  and  south.  The  hills  here,  and  along  our  whole 
journey,  continued  to. be  covered  with  the  cedar,  bush-willow,  and  spruce-pine,  which  grows 
small,  but  exceedingly  abundant.  To-day  hills  and  mountains  assumed  a  more  rugged  appear 
ance  than  we  had  noticed  on  any  day  previous;  high  rocky  bluffs  at  times  outcropping  from  the 
hills,  of  a  dark  black  or  brown  color,  commingled  with  a  light  cream-colored  rock  apparently  of 
a  hard  texture.  The  hills  on  each  side  of  the  valley  were  from  five  to  six  hundred  feet  high.  The 
brooks,  streams,  and  rivulets  passed  and  crossed  to-day  were  very  numerous.  The  grass  along 
our  whole  route  was  exceedingly  fine  and  luxuriant  in  the  valley;  along  the  slopes  of  the  mount 
ains,  however,  which  were  covered  with  rocks  and  pebbles,  the  grass  was  very  spare  and  dry, 
contrasting  well  with  the  beautiful  green  meadows  of  the  valley  below.  Game  to-day  was  very 
scarce,  only  one  elk  and  four  antelope  being  seen  during  the  day:  the  latter  being  exceedingly 
shy,  precluded  all  possibility  of  approach;  the  former  we  succeeded  in  killing,  but  he  proved 
unfortunately  to  be  a  six-year  old  buck,  poor  and  good  for  nothing,  which  we  sorely  regretted, 
as  we  were  now  without  meat.  We  nooned  to-day  on  Smith's  river,  where  we  found  good  water, 
grass,  and  wood;  the  latter,  however,  was  not  abundant,  the  stream  here  having  a  width  of 
forty  feet.  We  continued  down  the  valley  of  this  river  during  the  remainder  of  the  day,  which 
was  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  and  perfectly  level.  It  is  probably  one  of  the  prettiest 
valleys  to  be  found  in  the  mountains.  For  miles  you  see  before  you  a  level  prairie  bottom, 
bounded  on  each  side  by  the  gently  sloping  hills  of  the  Belt  mountains,  which  are  covered  with 
a  thick  and  even  growth  of  the  pine,  and  through  the  middle  of  this  prairie  the  Smith's  river, 
with  its  banks  bordered  by  the  willow,  birch,  and  cotton-wood,  flows.  The  water  of  this  stream 
is  clear  and  cool,  its  bed  pebbly,  and  current  rapid.  The  weather  to-day  has  been  very  warm, 
rendering  a  coat  uncomfortable,  contrasting  greatly  and  agreeably  with  the  weather  of  the  two 
days  previous.  Some  of  the  higher  peaks  of  the  mountains  on  the  south  side  of  the  valley  were 
covered  with  snow,  while  none  was  to  be  seen  on  the  mountains  towards  the  north.  After  a  long 
day's  march  we  camped  on  the  left  bank  of  Smith's  river,  where  we  found  good  wood,  grass,  and 
water.  We  had  a  luxury  to-night  in  a  string  of  mountain  trout,  brought  into  camp  by  one  of 
our  Flathead  friends;  these  trout,  which  form  a  very  excellent  dish,  were  twelve  inches  long,  of 
slightly  yellow  tinged  color,  and  spotted  on  the  upper  half,  and  look  not  unlike  the  common 
mackerel  of  the  East.  Our  Indians  displayed  on  this  occasion  a  trait  worthy  of  notice.  They 
were  without  meat,  or  anything  to  eat.  We  were  without  meat,  but  had  a  little  flour  left  from 
our  small  stock  of  provisions.  These  being  the  first  fish  caught  by  any  of  the  party,  they  insisted 
on  our  taking  them,  which  we  refused ;  but  still  insisting,  we  were  compelled  to  accept  them. 
This  is  certainly  an  example  of  boundless  generosity.  I  cannot  say  too  much  in  favor  of  these 
noble  men  who  were  with  us;  they  were  pious,  aged,  firm,  upright,  and  reliable  men;  in  addi 
tion  thereto,  they  entertained  a  religious  belief  which  they  never  violated.  They  partook  not  of  a 
meal  without  asking  a  blessing  of  God;  they  never  rose  in  the  morning  or  retired  at  night  without 
offering  a  prayer  to  God.  They  all  knew  the  country  well,  and  made  excellent  guides  and  good 
hunters;  and  when  they  could  not  find  fresh  meat  they  accepted  of  the  remnants  from  our  scanty 
table  with  the  greatest  humility  and  contentedness,  contrasting  well  with  our  Blackfeet  friends, 
who  had  just  left  us,  who  made  free  with  anything  belonging  to  us,  and  who  looked  upon  our 
table  as  their  own.  These  Flatheads  have  always  been,  as  an  Indian  tribe,  held  in  the  highest 
estimation,  and  this  I  can  fully  confirm  from  actual  observation.  When  one  or  two  went  out  in 


312  FROM   THE   FLATIIEAD   CAMP   TO   ST.   MARY^S   VALLEY. 

the  morning  to  hunt,  they  gave  full  details  as  to  water,  grass,  wood,  halts,  meeting  each  other, 
&c.,  so  fully  did  they  appreciate  their  position.  The  night  of  this  day  was  exceedingly  mild  and 
pleasant;  the  frost,  however,  being  very  heavy,  which  before  morning  coated  the  ground  as  with 
snow. 

Scptrjnber  21,  1S53. — Commences  clear  and  cool,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  26°.  We 
resumed  our  march,  continuing  down  the  valley  of  Smith's  river  for  a  distance  of  two  miles, 
when,  turning  more  to  the  south,  we  left  the  river  far  to  our  right ;  and  when  ascending  a 
prairie  hill,  near  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  we  could  trace  its  windings  though  the  valley  of 
the  hills  for  a  distance  of  many  miles,  still  continuing  to  flow  through  a  beautiful  and  charming 
valley,  receiving  tributaries  from  the  mountain  slopes  on  each  side.  Our  course  lay  till  near 
noon  over  a  series  of  undulating  prairie  hills,  having  to  our  left,  about  three  miles  distant,  a  large 
tributary  of  Smith's  river,  well  wooded,  and  to  the  south  of  it  a  high  range  of  well  timbered 
mountains,  some  of  the  summits  of  which  are  covered  with  snow.  The  mountains  to  our  right 
continue  to  be  very  high  and  well  wooded.  Near  the  summit  the  prairie  hills  over  which  we 
passed  this  morning  are  covered  with  rock,  stones,  and  pebbles  in  every  direction,  which  made 
travelling  difficult  for  our  animals.  Game  in  the  valley  of  these  hills  we  found  very  abundant, 
being  principally  antelope,  but  so  exceedingly  shy  as  to  prevent  all  possibility  of  approach. 
About  11  a.  m.  we  entered  the  valley  of  a  small  stream  turning  towards  the  east,  upon  which  we 
nooned,  finding  here  good  wood  and  water,  but  very  poor  grass.  This  valley  was  one  hundred 
yards  wide,  the  hills  or  mountains  on  each  side  being  about  five  hundred  feet  high,  and  clad  with 
the  pine,  growing  to  a  height  of  sixty  feet  and  perfectly  straight.  At  our  noon  halt,  two  of  our 
Indians  who  had  left  us  early  in  the  morning  returned  with  seven  large  mountain  trout  which  they 
had  caught  in  Smith's  river;  these  were  similar  to  those  of  the  night  previous,  but  of  much  larger 
size.  Our  course  during  the  afternoon  lay  to  the  south,  up  a  steep  mountain  five  hundred  feet 
high,  which  we  were  compelled  to  ascend  to  gain  a  ridge  which  we  could  follow,  as  the  valley 
was  so  obstructed  by  rocks  and  brushwood,  and  so  very  narrow,  that  it  was  perfectly  impos 
sible  to  follow  it  to  its  head.  When  gaining  the  top  of  this  mountain,  nothing  was  to  be 
seen  save  an  immense  bed  of  rugged  mountains.  From  the  summit  of  this  mountain  our  course 
lay  more  to  the  west,  over  a  very  excellent  road,  leading  through  a  thicket  for  a  distance  of  two 
miles,  the  timber  being  the  pine,  hemlock,  cedar,  and  spruce.  After  passing  the  thicket  referred 
to,  we  came  in  sight,  for  the  first  time,  of  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  the  object  of  all 
our  hopes  and  ambition.  These  mountains  we  supposed  to  be  at  a  distance  of  near  fifty  miles, 
and  reared  their  lofty  heads  far  into  the  blue  sky  in  the  distance.  Our  only  regret  on  seeing  them 
was,  that  we  were  not  on  the  west  side  of  them.  We  had  now  gained  the  divide  or  highest 
ridge  of  the  mountain,  and  now  commenced  a  descent,  dangerous  both  for  our  animals  and  our 
selves.  The  mountains  which  we  had  to  descend  in  order  to  reach  a  valley  conducting  us  to  a 
valley  of  the  Missouri,  was  one  thousand  feet  high,  with  a  slope  of  65°.  This  was  formed  of 
dark- blue  slate,  which  in  most  places  was  exposed,  presenting  its  rough  edges  to  our  horses' 
feet,  making  the  travelling  very  bad  and  dangerous.  We  were  compelled  to  dismount;  and 
wearing  nothing  but  moccasins,  it  was  exceedingly  trying  to  our  feet.  This  slate  formation 
dipped  towards  the  west  at  an  angle  of  45°,  the  largest  strata  being  from  an  eighth  to  half  an 
inch  in  thickness.  Gaining  the  base  of  the  mountain,  we  entered  a  narrow  valley  or  ravine, 
through  which  flowed  a  brook  or  mountain  stream,  the  waters  of  which  ran  to  the  west  and 
emptied  into  the  Missouri.  This  valley  or  ravine  was  about  seventy-five  yards  wide,  which  we 
followed  down  for  several  miles,  camping  about  six  miles  from  the  base  of  the  mountain.  Here 
we  found  the  mountains  on  each  side  to  be  composed  of  a  red  slate  formation.  The  mountains  on 
each  side  of  the  gorge  have  been  heavily  timbered  with  the  pine,  but  a  fire  has  lately  passed  over 
.  them,  destroying  nearly  every  tree.  Game  we  still  continued  to  fine  very  scarce;  one  of  our 
Indians,  however,  succeeded  in  killing  an  antelope,  which  added  very  materially  to  our  comfort. 
The  night  of  this  day  was  exceedingly  pleasant. 


FROM   THE    FLATHEAD    CAMP   TO    ST.    MARY?S   VALLEY.  313 

September  22,  1853. — Commences  very  mild  and  warm.  We  resumed  our  march  at  6  a.  m., 
continuing  down  the  ravine  of  the  mountains,  in  which  we  have  encamped  for  a  distance  of  three, 
miles ;  the  geological  formation  of  the  ravine  or  mountains  on  each  side  being  first  a  blue,  which 
lower  down  changes  into  red  slate,  and  finally  into  a  greenish  gray  slate,  till,  reaching  the  end  of 
the  ravine  or  canon,  the  slate  character  becomes  completely  lost,  and  changes  into  a  rugged, 
rough,  weather-beaten,  cream-colored  rock.  Where  the  small  portions  of  rock  have  been  broken 
off  and  fallen  into  the  ravine,  it  made  the  travelling  very  bad  for  our  animals.  At  the  end  of 
this  canon  we  came  in  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Missouri,  which  was  eight  miles  wide,  and  a 
most  beautiful,  well-grassed  prairie  bottom,  this  extending  on  each  side  of  our  route  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach.  Far  to  our  left  lay  a  high  ridge  of  the  Rocky  range,  and  in  the  rear  of  it  a 
snow-clad  range,  which  in  the  bright  sunshine  glistened  like  a  mountain  of  silver.  Far  to  our 
right  lay  another  rough  and  rugged  ridge  of  the  Rocky  range,  while  to  our  front  lay  a  third, 
bounding  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri.  Crossing  this  prairie  by  a  very  excellent  road,  we  fell 
upon  the  main  stream  of  the  Missouri,  which  we  found  to  be  a  rapid,  clear,  and  tortuous  stream, 
near  two  hundred  yards  wide,  the  channel  water  being  six  and  eight  feet  deep.  The  river  being 
shut  in  by  the  mountains  on  the  west  and  hills  on  the  east,  becomes  in  places  exceedingly  rapid; 
its  banks  are  wooded  in  places  with  the  cotton-wood;  the  willow,  however,  occurs  very  abund 
antly  along  its  banks,  on  both  sides.  Not  being  able  to  find  a  ford  when  striking  the  river,  our 
course  tended  down  it  for  a  distance  of  six  or  eight  miles,  when  we  nooned  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Missouri,  finding  here  good  grass  and  water,  but  no  wood.  This  prairie  bottom  is  covered 
with  rich  grass,  but  also  with  an  abundance  of  prickly  pear.  From  our  halt  at  noon,  we  travelled 
four  miles  farther  down  the  stream,  where  we  found  a  ford,  taking  advantage  of  a  point  in  the 
river  \vhere  two  islands  formed  in  the  channel.  Here  the  water  was  two  and  a  half  feet  deep; 
bottom  gravelly  and  rocky,  and  current  so  very  rapid  that  our  animals  were  carried  down  the 
stream  in  crossing.  Fortunately,  we  forded  the  stream  with  everything  dry  and  safe.  On  one 
of  these  islands  we  succeeded  in  killing  a  large  fat  elk,  weighing  from  six  to  eight  hundred 
pounds;  we  took  about  twenty-five  pounds  of  the  choice  portion,  and  turned  the  remainder  over 
to  the  bears  and  wolves.  After  crossing  the  Missouri  we  began  the  ascent  of  a  rough,  rugged, 
craggy  ridge  of  the  Rocky  range ;  rocks  and  stone  lay  piled  to  our  front,  and  on  each  side,  in 
wild  confusion.  This  rough  road  continued,  however,  for  only  a  few  miles,  when  we  gained  a 
series  of  prairie  bluffs,  or  hills,  which  brought  us  to  a  very  broad  and  beautiful  prairie  valley, 
bounded  on  each  side  by  mountains.  Had  we  been  able  to  find  a  ford  when  first  striking  the 
Missouri,  we  would  have  entered  the  southern  end  of  this  prairie,  and  avoided  the  bad  hills 
referred  to;  but  being  compelled  to  travel  down  it  for  several  miles,  we  preferred  crossing  this 
ridge,  to  retracing  the  same  distance  on  the  opposite  side,  to  gain  the  prairie.  The  ridge 
referred  to  is  formed  of  reddish  slate-rock,  unstratified;  granite,  however,  was  to  be  seen  in 
broken  masses  on,  and  projecting  above,  the  surface  of  the  ground.  Game  we  found  more 
abundant  to-day  than  any  day  since  we  left  the  buffalo  country :  in  the  morning  we  saw  two 
bands  of  mountain  goat,  bounding  their  way  over  the  craggy  hills  with  the  swiftness  of  arrows ; 
in  the  evening  we  saw  many  bands  of  elk  arid  antelope  running  over  the  hills  and  in  the  prairie 
valleys  of  the  mountains.  One  of  our  guides,  in  ascending  a  high  peak  this  evening,  with  a  glass 
saw  something  far  in  the  distance,  which  he  supposed  to  be  a  man  on  horseback.  I  told  him  to 
go  and  see  what  it  was,  as  I  thought  it  might  possibly  be  some  one  from  Governor  Stevens's 
party  sent  out  to  reconnoitre.  Mounting  a  good  horse,  he  was  soon  on  the  road.  He  returned 
to  camp  at  night  and  reported  that  what  he  took  to  be  a  man  on  horseback  turned  out  to  be  a 
tree.  Our  camp  of  this  night  was  on  a  small  stream  from  the  west  emptying  into  the  Missouri, 
lined  on  each  side  with  an  abundance  of  wood;  the  grass,  however,  was  very  indifferent.  The 
night  of  this  day  was  clear  and  beautiful.  This  prairie  is  said  to  connect  with  Fort  Benton  by 
a  wagon  road;  this  is  at  present  based  upon  information  from  trappers,  who  have  spent  many 
years  in  the  mountains,  and  who  have  often  passed  over  the  country,  between  Fort  Benton  and 
40/ 


314  FROM    THE   FLATUEAD    CAMP    TO   ST.    MARY'S    VALLEY. 

the  Bitter  Root  valley:  they  represent  that  it  is  necessary  to  make  but  two  crossings  of  the  Mis 
souri  in  the  whole  distance,  the  road  coming  in  on  the  north  side  of  this  prairie  bottom. 

September  23,  1853. — Commences  very  mild  and  pleasant,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  42°. 
We  did  not  resume  our  march  this  morning  till  near  8  o'clock,  when  our  trail  lay  over  the  beau 
tiful  prairie  valley  before  referred  to,  which  we  found  eighteen  miles  wide,  crossing  in  the  mean 
while  several  prairie  streams,  all  of  which  empty  their  waters  into  the  Missouri.  At  12  m.  we 
halted  on  a  stream  coming  from  the  west,  finding  here  good  water  and  wood,  but  very  indifferent 
grass.  Game  to-day  has  been  exceedingly  abundant.  Elk  and  antelope,  which  were  seen  in 
large  bands  during  the  day,  loaded  our  table  at  eight.  In  the  afternoon  our  course  lay  up  the 
valley  of  a  small  stream,  on  which  we  nooned  ;  we  here  found  the  ravine  exceedingly  tortuous, 
the  rocks  along  the  valley  many  and  rugged,  though  affording  a  very  good  road ;  the  rocks  on 
the  side  of  the  hills,  which  at  times  were  of  a  dark  cream  color,  at  others  of  a  smoky  black, 
broken  off  and  lined  up  to  near  the  head  of  the  ravine,  when  it  increased  to  two  miles  in  width, 
forming  a  very  beautiful  pine  grove.  The  hills  along  this  ravine  were  clad  with  pines  growing  to 
a  height  of  forty  feet,  and  perfectly  straight.  Our  camp  of  this  night  was  at  the  foot  of  the 
dividing  ridge  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  waters,  on  a  small  brook  emptying  into  the  stream, 
along  which  we  journeyed  during  the  afternoon,  where  we  found  good  wood,  water,  and  excel 
lent  grass.  The  night  of  this  day  was  very  mild  and  pleasant.  We  killed  during  the  day  one 
elk  and  an  antelope,  the  skin  of  the  latter  of  which  we  secured  and  dried  for  an  apishamo  (sad 
dle-cloth)  for  one  of  our  animals. 

September  24,  1853. — Like  many  of  the  previous  days,  commences  mild  and  pleasant.  We 
resumed  our  march  at  half-past  7  o'clock,  our  course  being  nearly  due  west,  up  a  steep  mountain 
of  the  dividing  ridge,  which  was  about  one  thousand  feet  high,  above  the  bottom  of  the  valley. 
Our  course  to  its  summit  was  necessarily  very  winding,  from  the  nature  and  character  of  the 
ground.  This  mountain,  as  also  the  whole  range,  was  well  clad,  the  pine  growing  in  some  places 
perfectly  straight,  and  to  the  height  of  a  hundred  feet.  This  particular  mountain  crossed  by  us 
was  not  practicable  for  wagons ;  though  I  am  told  there  is  one  which,  crossing  the  prairie  referred 
to  yesterday,  crosses  the  mountains  a  few  miles  farther  to  the  north,  by  a  very  easy  and  gradual 
ascent  and  descent,  the  only  obstruction  being  the  timber  and  the  loose  rocks  and  stones. 

On  the  top  of  this  mountain  we  found  a  quagmire,  in  which  our  animals  unfortunately  plunged 
themselves;  and  it  was  with  some  difficulty  that  they  were  extricated.  Gaining  the  summit  of 
this  mountain,  we  fell  upon  a  beautiful  prairie  road,  which  led  us  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Little 
Blackfoot  fork  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  being  a  tributary  to  the  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia. 
This  stream  we  found  well  wooded,  the  cotton-wood  and  willow  abounding  principally;  the  tops 
of  the  mountains  on  each  side  were  clad  with  pine. 

The  mountains  on  our  right  were  formed  of  a  dark  gray  rock ;  which,  having  become  very 
much  disintegrated  by  the  action  of  the  frost,  lay  piled  up  to  the  height  of  many  feet.  At  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  for  many  miles,  the  valley  of  this  fork  was  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a 
half  wide,  and  covered  with  a  rich  growth  of  very  nutritious  grass.  We  nooned  on  the  right 
bank  of  this  stream,  where  one  of  our  Indians  caught  a  string  of  fine  mountain  trout.  In  nearly 
all  the  brooks  and  streams  that  we  have  met  in  the  mountains  thus  far,  we  have  found  an  abund 
ance  of  fine  trout ;  thus  always  affording  us  something  for  our  table  in  the  scarcity  of  game, 
which  latter  we  found  scarce  again  to-day,  only  one  or  two  antelopes  being  seen  in  the  valley. 

Resuming  our  march,  we  continued  down  the  valley  of  this  beautiful  mountain  stream,  fording 
it  at  a  distance  of  three  miles ;  when,  to  shorten  our  distance,  we  gained  the  top  of  a  prairie  hill, 
from  which  we  had  a  fine  view  far  into  the  distance ;  crossing,  in  the  interval,  several  prairie 
streamlets  that  flow  into  the  Little  Blackfoot  fork.  We  could  see  several  small  tributaries  coming 
in  from  the  east,  winding  through  very  beautiful  prairie  valleys;  some  of  these  streams  being 
well  wooded.  Having  travelled  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  we  camped  on  a  tributary  of 
the  Little  Blackfoot  fork,  finding  here  good  wood  and  water,  but  not  as  good  grass  as  we  had 


NIOM   THE   FLATHEAD   CAMP   TO   ST.    MARY'S   VALLEY.  315 

passed  during  the  day,  nor  as  good  as  our  animals  deserved  after  a  fatiguing  march.  During  the 
afternoon  the  clouds  gathered  thick  and  black  in  the  west,  giving  promise  of  a  shower,  which, 
towards  9  p.  m.,  came  in  full  blast,  continuing  till  morning,  giving  us  a  wet  and  uncomfortable  bed. 
September  25,  1853. — Commences  cloudy  and  rainy,  the  rain  having  continued  the  whole  night 
without  cessation.  Our  course  this  morning  lay  along  a  series  of  hills,  some  of  which  were  very 
steep  and  exceedingly  rocky.  The  rain  during  the  night  had  caused  the  ground  to  become  very 
muddy  and  slippery.  We  crossed  the  Little  Blackfoot  fork  many  times,  which  we  found  well 
wooded  with  cotton- wood  and  willow ;  current  rapid,  and  the  bottom  very  rocky,  with  many 
rapids.  The  rain  continued  during  the  whole  day,  which  made  the  travelling  disagreeable.  The 
mountains  to-day  are  not  so  high  as  those  we  have  passed,  but  present  more  the  appearance  of 
high  undulating  prairie  hills,  with  their  summits  occasionally  covered  with  timber.  The  formation 
along  some  of  these  mountain  prairies  was  of  slate  granite  and  a  red  brick-colored  rock,  which, 
when  broken,  looked  not  unlike  fragments  of  broken  brick.  Our  camp  of  last  night  was  near  a 

of  mountain  limestone.     Having  halted  at  12  m.  to  prepare  breakfast,  we  resumed  our 

march  at  2£  p.  m.,  continuing  down  the  valley  of  the  Little  Blackfoot,  which,  receiving  many 
tributaries  from  the  mountains  on  each  side,  swelled  it  to  a  stream  of  from  eighteen  inches  to  two 
feet  deep,  and  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  yards  wide,  which  continues  to  be  well  wooded;  the 
quaking  asp  and  small-leafed  cotton- wood  being  found  most  abundant ;  elm  and  ash  were  also  to 
be  found — the  latter,  however,  but  seldom. 

The  valley  of  this  stream  is  now  one  mile  wide,  and  covered  with  a  beautiful  and  luxurious 
growth  of  fine  grass.  In  many  places  the  valley  has  been  burnt  over,  and  the  young,  green 
grass  is  now  growing  abundantly.  Our  night's  camp  being  near  one  of  these  spots,  our  animals 
duly  appreciated  the  nutritious  grass.  We  struck,  during  the  afternoon,  the  main  stream  of  the 
Hell  Gate  river,  which  we  found  to  be  a  rapid,  bold  stream,  eighty  yards  wide,  with  channel 
water  two  feet  deep,  lined  on  both  sides  with  the  small-leafed  cotton-wood.  We  did  not  follow 
the  Little  Blackfoot  fork  to  its  mouth,  as  our  trail  tended  more  to  the  west,  over  a  series  of  low 
undulating  prairie  hills,  striking  the  main  stream  of  the  Hell  Gate  river  about  three  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  fork.  We  forded  the  Hell  Gate  river  a  few  miles  below  the  Little  Blackfoot, 
camping  on  its  left  bank,  finding  good  grass,  wood,  and  water. 

The  Hell  Gate  river  rises  in  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains ;  its  principal  branch 
flowing  through  a  well  known  prairie  bottom  called  "Deer's  Lodge;"  its  source  being  in  the 
ridge  of  mountains  separating  its  waters  from  those  of  the  Wisdom  river,  a  tributary  of  the 
Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri ;  its  most  eastern  branch  rising  in  a  ridge  separating  it  from  the  main 
stream  of  the  Jefferson  river.  Both  of  these  branches  are  followed  by  Indians  going  to  the  buffalo 
hunt — the  former  being  travelled  by  a  very  good  wagon  road  from  Fort  Hall. 

September  26,  1853. — Commences  cool  and  cloudy  ;  the  rain  ceased  near  morning,  leaving 
everything  wet  and  disagreeable.  We  resumed  our  march  at  7.10  a.  m.  down  the  valley  of  the 
Hell  Gate  river,  on  its  left  bank,  continuing  at  times  in  the  valley  over  the  prairie  bluffs  that 
bound  it,  in  order  to  cut  off  the  many  bends  of  the  stream.  We  crossed  the  stream  several  times 
during  the  day,  finding  the  ford  with  water  two  feet  deep,  and  the  stream  from  eighty  to  one 
hundred  yards  wide.  About  11  a.  m.,  when  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  we  struck  the  trail  of 
a  party  going  towards  the  east — the  trail  being  but  a  few  days  old.  We  found  a  small  pile  of 
stones,  and  in  it  a  small  piece  of  paper  with  the  following  written  on  it :  "F.  W.  Lander,  engineer 
N.  P.  P.  R.  Ex.,  passed  here  with  nine  men  September  23,  1853,  towards  St.  Mary's. — Hugh 
Munroe,  guide."  His  trail  tended  at  that  time  due  magnetic  east,  while  ours  was  due  magnetic 
west.  I  thought  it  possible  that  the  guide  of  Mr.  Lander's  party  had  taken  the  Hell  Gate  river  to 
be  the  St.  Mary's  or  Bitter  Root  river,  and  in  that  case  was  following  it  up  to  strike  the  St.  Mary's 
village,  the  point  of  junction  of  the  several  reconnoitring  parties  then  in  the  field.  Laboring  under 
this  impression,  and  knowing  full  well,  from  having  four  Flathead  guides  with  us,  that  we  were 
travelling  on  the  proper  trail  and  in  the  right  direction,  I  deemed  it  expedient  to  despatch  Mr. 


316  FROM    THE    FLATIIEAD   CAMP    TO    ST.    MARY'S    VALLEY. 

Burr  and  an  Indian  guide,  with  directions  to  follow  their  trail  a  reasonable  length  of  time,  and  if 
he  met  with  the  party,  to  warn  its  chief  of  his  error ;  and  in  case  he  could  not  overtake  them,  to 
retrace  his  steps,  and  follow  on  our  trail  to  the  village  of  St.  Mary's.  To  this  effect  he  and  the 
Indian,  mounted  as  well  as  the  condition  of  our  animals  admitted,  started  at  12  m.  on  their  trail. 
We  passed  to-day  quite  a  large  tributary  to  the  Hell  Gate  river,  coming  in  from  the  west-south 
west,  called  the  Flint  creek,  by  following  which,  our  Indians  stated,  led  to  a  road  of  two  or 
two  and  a  half  days'  journey  to  the  St.  Mary's  village,  across  the  Bitter  Root  range  of  mountains, 
but  by  a  much  more  rough  and  rugged  trail  than  the  one  we  were  then  travelling.  They  stated 
that  the  road  was  by  the  Gun  Flint  creek,  and  is  the  one  travelled  by  the  Blackfoot  Indians  in  the 
spring,  when  visiting  the  Flathead  country  to  steal  horses.  I  thought  it  probable,  therefore,  that 
Mr.  Lander's  party  had  taken  this  road  across  the  mountains,  and  in  that  case  Mr.  Burr  could  not 
overtake  them  before  reaching  the  village  of  St.  Mary's. 

Continuing  our  journey  over  a  series  of  prairie  hills  till  2.30  p.  m.,  we  encamped  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Hell  Gate.  Here  the  stream  was  well  wooded;  channel-water  two  feet  deep,  clear, 
and  the  current  quite  rapid;  bottom  stony  and  gravelly. 

The  weather  during  this  afternoon  was  cool  and  cloudy,  which,  towards  the  middle  of  the 
night,  changed  to  a  cold  rain,  rendering  our  overcoats  very  comfortable.  Game  during  this  day 
has  been  exceedingly  scarce;  one  antelope  was  all  that  was  seen  during  the  day;  at  night,  how 
ever,  one  elk  came  near  the  camp,  when  three  of  the  party  started,  one  on  horseback,  in  pursuit 
of  him.  They  succeeded  in  wounding  him,  but  not  so  badly  but  that  he  escaped.  The  Indians 
were  exceedingly  anxious  to  capture  him,  since  they  had  nothing  to  eat,  but  were  dependent  on 
our  bounty,  which  was  necessarily  small  and  limited.  Here  I  am  forced  to  mention  the  patience 
and  fortitude  of  these  Indians.  Here  they  were,  brought  from  their  tribes  and  homes,  and  in  the 
midst  of  their  hunting  season,  to  guide  and  accompany  the  whites  across  the  Rocky  mountains, 
and  when  without  anything  to  eat  they  displayed  a  degree  of  Christian  fortitude  rarely  seen 
among  any  other  class  of  people;  but  willingly  did  we  share  our  scanty  fare  with  them. 

September  27,  1S53. — Commences  cool  and  cloudy,  giving  indication  of  rain ;  the  thermometer 
at  sunrise  being  42°.  We  resumed  our  journey  this  morning  at  6.30  a.  m.,  continuing  our  course 
along  the  banks  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  which  we  crossed  five  times  during  the  day,  finding  a  good 
ford  at  each  crossing,  with  water  about  two  feet  deep ;  the  current  very  rapid  and  bottom 
rocky.  The  stream  continued  to  be  well  wooded  ;  the  valley  in  places  being  a  pine  forest,  the  trees 
growing  to  a  great  height,  and  perfectly  straight.  We  found  the  valley  to-day  running  nearly 
west,  but  the  stream  itself  very  tortuous,  and  ma,king  large  bends.  We  saw  no  game  to-day. 
We  saw  on  the  road  in  abundance  what  is  called  by  some  the  mountain  apple,  a  small  red 
berry,  growing  in  bunches  from  six  to  nine  feet  high.  They  looked  very  much  like  the  apple 
seen  on  the  rose-bush  when  the  flower  has  been  plucked  or  withered.  The  taste  is  somewhat 
similar  to  that  of  the  apple  of  the  States,  and  when  touched  severely  by  the  frosts  are  said  to  be 
very  good. 

The  mountains  on  each  side  of  the  valley  are  still  clad  with  pine  ;  the  valley  itself  being  to-day 
very  level,  affording  a  beautiful  road ;  the  grass  being  very  good.  After  a  march  of  twenty- 
five  miles,  we  encamped  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  finding  good  grass,  wood,  and 
water. 

About  seven  o'clock  p.  m.  the  Indian  guide  who  had  accompanied  Mr.  Burr  returned,  stating 
that  Mr.  Burr  was  back  thirty  or  forty  miles.  I  concluded,  therefore,  to  remain  in  camp  until  he 
should  return.  The  night  of  this  day  was  mild  and  pleasant.  We  passed,  about  10  o'clock  a. 
m.,  a  second  trail  leading  to  St.  Mary's  village,  which  was  to  our  right,  being  the  one  followed 
during  the  high-water  seasons. 

September  28,  1853. — Commences  cool  and  cloudy.  At  8  o'clock  a.  m.  it  commenced  raining, 
which  continued  during  the  day,  though  moderately.  We  remained  in  camp  to-day;  our  Indians 
amusing  themselves  in  fishing  and  arranging  their  trinkets,  &c.,  as  they  were  now  approaching 


FROM    THE   FLATHEAD    CAMP    TO    ST.    MART?S   VALLEY.  317 

their  village,  and  wished  to  show  to  advantage,  both  among  their  own  tribe  and  the  whites. 
The  men  were  engaged  in  attending  to  their  animals,  &c.,  making  moccasins,  or  boots  of  dressed 
buffalo-hide,  for  those  that  were  lame ;  this  latter  we  were  compelled  to  do  some  days  back,  as 
several  of  our  horses  were  tender-footed ;  being  unshod,  and  crossing  the  streams  so  often,  the 
beds  of  all  of  which  were  rocky  and  pebbly,  told  upon  the  feet  of  our  animals.  This  plan  of 
making  boots  or  moccasins  for  them  we  found  to  answer  very  well. 

About  7  o'clock  p.  rn.  Mr.  Burr  returned.  He  reported,  "that  after  leaving  my  trail  on  the 
morning  of  the  26th,  he  followed  on  the  trail  of  the  horse-tracks  which  we  had  seen,  which  tended 
north  forty-five  degrees  east;  he  followed  till  he  came  to  one  of  the  camps;  he  dismounted  and 
followed  one  of  their  camp-fires,  and  found"  the  ashes  still  warm,  thereby  showing  he  was  not 
many  miles  distant  from  them;  that  he  followed  the  trail  over  a  very  rough,  difficult,  and  rugged 
road  to  the  top  of  a  high  hill,  from  which  he  could  see  far  in  the  distance.  Towards  the  north 
lay  the  valley  of  a  large  stream,  the  banks  of  which  were  well  wooded,  the  valley  well  grassed." 
From  his  description,  I  took  this  to  be  the  Big  Blackfont  fork  of  the  Hell  Gate  river.  When 
gaining  the  top  of  this  mountain,  the  Indian  refused  to  follow  him  farther,  but  turned  his  horse's 
head  westward. 

Mr.  Burr  reports,  that  if  his  horse  had  been  in  good  condition,  he  would  have  followed  them 
alone;  as  it  was,  he  was  compelled  to  retrace  his  steps,  and  follow  the  trail  of  the  Indian. 

September  29,  1853. — Commences  cloudy  but  warm,  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  39°.  We 
resumed  our  journey  at  6.30  a.  m.  down  the  Hell  Gate  rver,  following  along  its  right  bank  by  a 
very  excellent  road,  which  lay  principally  through  a  pine  forest  of  the  valley.  At  a  distance  of 
six  or  seven  miles  we  struck  the  Big  Blackfoot  fork  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  which  we  found  to 
be  a  rapid  stream,  from  fifty  to  sixty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  with  a  rocky  bed,  and  channel- 
water  twenty  inches  deep.  We  crossed  it  about  twenty  yards  above  its  mouth. 

Where  the  forks  come  together  is  a  beautiful  prairie  bottom,  well  grassed.  This  place  is  called 
the  Hell  Gate,  a  name  given  it  by  the  Flatheads  and  other  Indians  west  of  the  mountains,  from 
the  fact  that  here  the  Blackfeet  Indians  have  committed  many  murders  and  robberies ;  it  being 
the  debouch  of  the  defiles  of  the  mountains,  and  where  Indians  are  generally  found,  and  must 
pass  in  going  to  the  buffalo  hunt  east  of  the  Missouri. 

It  is  a  perfect  gate  in  the  mountains,  forming  a  well  known  and  noted  landmark.  From 
receiving  the  large  volume  of  water  brought  down  by  the  Big  Blackfoot  fork,  the  Hell  Gave  river 
has  swollen  to  a  large  stream,  with  a  rapid  current,  and  eighty  yards  wide.  At  11.30  a.  m.  we 
fell  upon  the  trail  of  a  large  party  from  the  Big  Blackfoot  fork ;  a  short  time  after,  upon  the 
trail  of  two  wheels,  with  animals  shod,  which  we  concluded  was  the  trail  of  the  main  portion  of 
the  expedition :  they  had  passed  this  place  only  the  day  before,  the  trail  of  the  wheels  being  that 
of  the  odometer  wagon. 

At  12  m.  wre  halted  on  the  right  bank  of  the  main  stream  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  having 
travelled  fifteen  miles,  finding  here  good  grass,  wood,  and  water.  Resuming  our  march  at  1.30 
p.  m.,  we  continued  for  two  miles  farther  along  the  Hell  Gate  river;  crossing  it  at  a  point  where 
formed  a  gravelly  island  in  the  channel,  we  found  the  current  here  quite  swift,  water  about  two 
feet  deep,  and  bottom  as  above,  very  pebbly  and  rocky. 

We  now  entered  upon  a  large  and  beautiful  prairie  lying  between  the  Hell  Gate  and  Bitter 
Root  or  St.  Mary's  river,  which  latter  at  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles  we  struck,  finding  it  a 
bold,  rapid  stream,  and  of  the  same  size  and  character  as  the  Hell  Gate  river.  We  struck  the 
Bitter  Root  river  where  it  makes  a  great  bend,  going  to  the  west,  and  about  eight  or  nine  miles 
above  its  mouth. 

This  river  rises  in  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  is  about  ninety  miles  long,  and  flows 
through  a  beautiful  valley,  where  is  the  residence  and  home  of  the  Flathead  Indians.  It  is  noted 
for  its  abundant  and  rich  grass  and  for  its  exceedingly  mild  winters. 

Travelling  up  the  Bitter  Root  river  for  a  distance  of  six  miles,  we  crossed  it,  camping  on  its 


318  ROFJTE   FROM   FORT   BENTON   TO   ST.   MARY'S  VALLEY. 

left  bank,  finding  good  grass,  wood,  and  water ;  our  camp  being  where  the  main  party  camped 
on  the  night  previous.     The  night  was  cool,  with  a  heavy  frost. 

September  30,  1853. — Commences  misty  and  cool,  but  towards  ten  o'clock  becomes  a  beautiful 
bright  day. 

We  resumed  our  journey,  at  7.30  a.  m.,  up  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  by  a  very  excellent  road, 
crossing  several  small  tributaries  coming  in  from  the  west,  making  one  crossing  of  the  Bitter  Root 
river  about  ten  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night.  At  a  distance  of  six  or  seven  miles  farther 
we  halted  on  a  small  stream  from  the  east,  about  three  miles  below  the  St.  Mary's  village,  the 
sight  of  which  we  all  greeted  with  feelings  of  joy.  We  were  visited  here  by  several  Flathead 
Indians,  who  informed  us  that  "  Suryarpees"  arrived  yesterday,  meaning  thereby  the  expedition. 
Resuming  our  march,  we  reached  the  village  at  3  p.  m.,  on  the  twenty-second  day  from  Fort 
Benton.  Here  we  were  met  by  the  Governor  and  several  members  of  the  expedition,  who  had 
expected  us  in  much  sooner.  Mr.  Lander's  party,  whom  we  started  in  search  of,  arrived  safely. 
Our  Indian  delegation  was  presented  to  the  Governor,  who  talked  with  them  as  the  represent 
atives  from  their  tribe,  setting  forth  the  good  intentions  of  the  government,  &c.  We  were  glad 
to  find  ourselves  at  our  journey's  end. 

Taking  now  a  retrospective  view  of  our  route  from  Fort  Benton,  we  saw  we  had  made  a  great 
bend,  when  leaving  the  Missouri,  to  the  south-southeast,  over  a  line  of  one  hundred  and  thirty 
miles,  to  the  Muscle  Shell  river;  thence  southeast,  over  a  line  of  sixty  miles;  thence  westward, 
across  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  over  a  distance  of  two 
hundred  and  twenty-five  miles,  crossing  in  the  interval  the  source  from  whence  flow  both  the 
waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans.  In  addition  to  crossing  several  small  streams  which 
empty  their  waters  into  the  Missouri,  we  had  followed  to  its  head  one  of  its  principal  tributaries — 
namely,  the  Muscle  Shell  river — crossing  the  ridge  of  the  mountains  from  which  it  receives  its 
source;  crossing  the  Missouri  far  to  the  south,  near  to  the  gate  of  the  mountains  (the  great  land 
mark  of  the  country)  through  which  it  issues;  and  thence,  across  the  main  chain  of  the  mountains, 
to  the  headwaters  of  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia.  From  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  mountains, 
and  even  for  thirty  miles  to  the  east,  I  can  say,  from  actual  examination,  that  the  route  travelled 
by  my  party  down  the  Little  Blackfoot  fork,  and  thence  by  the  Hell  Gate  river  to  the  Bitter  Root 
valley,  is  perfectly  practicable  for  wagon  trains.  There  are,  it  is  true,  some  obstructions  at 
present,  such  as  timber  and  loose  rocks  and  stones ;  but  with  very  little  labor  it  can  be  made  not 
only  a  practicable,  but  a  beautiful  wagon  road.  The  valley  of  both  the  streams  mentioned  affords 
the  greatest  abundance  of  rich  and  nutritious  grass,  and  their  borders  are  all  well  timbered  with 
an  abundant  supply  of  wood;  thus  affording  the  two  great  requisites  on  a  wagon  road. 

Most  of  the  road  is  over  a  beautiful  prairie  valley,  which  Nature  herself  seems  intentionally  to 
have  formed  for  the  passage  of  wagon  trains.  It  is  true  that  the  mountain-streams  have  to  be 
crossed  quite  often,  but  there  is  a  ford  at  every  crossing.  The  banks  are  low,  and  the  beds  are 
all  hard  and  covered  with  pebbles  and  gravel ;  thus  affording  every  facility  for  the  passage  of 
wagon  trains.  There  are  no  mountains  to  cross — no  sloughs,  no  coulees,  or  other  obstructions. 

With  regard  to  the  connexion  from  Fort  Benton  to  within  thirty  or  forty  miles  of  the  dividing 
ridge  on  the  east,  I  cannot  express  an  opinion  from  what  I  saw;  but,  from  information  gathered 
from  the  hunters  and  trappers  of  the  mountains,  it  is  said  that  "there  is  a  practicable  wagon  road 
from  Fort  Benton  to  the  mountains,  and  across  the  mountains  by  the  route  we  travelled,"  which 
road  crosses  the  Missouri  twice,  both  places  giving  an  excellent  ford  with  a  hard  bottom. 

Here,  therefore,  exists  in  the  mountains  a  broad  open  pass,  through  which  it  is  possible  that, 
ere  many  years  shall  have  passed,  a  broad  emigrant  trail  will  lead  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific 
Can  it  be  otherwise  ?  Can  the  advantage  possessed  by  the  Missouri  river,  flowing  as  it  does 
through  the  very  heart  of  our  country,  proved  by  actual  experiment  to  be  navigable  for  a  dis 
tance  of  twenty-two  hundred  miles,  and  which  from  reliable  authority  is  said  to  be  navigable  for 
light-draught  steamers  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains — can  it  be,  I  say,  that,  when  we  have  steam- 


FROM   CANTONMENT    STEVENS   TO   FORT   HALL   AND   BACK.  319 

boat  navigation  from  the  east  to  within  six  days  of  the  headwaters  of  the  Pacific,  the  advantages 
possessed  by  this  northern  country  can  be  overlooked  or  lost  sight  of?  Will  not  the  emigrants 
take  the  shortest  and  most  direct  line  to  the  Pacific  ?  It  has  been  proved  beyond  a  cavil  that 
there  is  a  wagon  road  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and 
that  there  exist  through  the  mountains  passes  practicable  for  wagons.  In  addition  to  this,  the 
great  line  and  length  of  water  communication  from  St.  Louis  to  the  base  of  the  mountains  renders 
this  section  especially  invaluable  in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  and  gives  it  a  degree  of  import 
ance  possessed  by  none  other. 

Should  it  prove  that  the  country  westward  from  the  mountains  to  the  Pacific  is  feasible  and 
practicable,  I  hesitate  not  in  saying  that  this  section  may  yet  prove  the  great  key  to  unlock  to  our 
country  rich  and  hidden  treasures,  and  that  will  afford  to  our  capitalists  an  inviting  opportunity  for 
investments.  It  might  be  said  by  some  that  this  is  nothing  new.  It  is  true  that  these  things  have  been 
as  long  as  the  country  has  been  in  existence  ;  but  why  have  we  not  taken  possession  of  them  —  why 
have  we  not  used  the  advantages  that  Nature  herself  placed  right  at  our  doors?  It  it  is  only  because 
we  have  not  felt  the  need,  the  necessity  for  them  until  the  present  ;  but  now  we  do  feel  the  necessity, 
and  that  deeply,  of  turning  to  our  account  not  only  every  natural  advantage  afforded  us,  but  to  im 
prove  those  natural  advantages  by  artificial  ones  —  in  a  word,  to  connect  the  Atlantic  with  the  Pacific, 
not  only  by  a  water  but  a  land  communication.  The  exertion  and  enterprise  of  a  private  company 
alone  has  made  known  to  us  the  importance  possessed  by  the  great  river  Missouri,  extending  and 
pushing  their  posts  farther  and  farther  into  the  Indian  country.  As  time  progresses,  they  have  now 
reached  the  farthest  confines  and  limits  of  the  Indian  country  east  of  the  mountains,  and  have 
thus  made  us  aware  of  the  existence  of  a  treasure  in  the  very  heart  of  our  country,  and  which 
may  yet  tell  upon  our  public  coffers.  These  men  saw  the  advantages  that  would  be  possessed 
by  this  river,  were  it  navigable  to  a  great  distance  above  its  mouth  ;  knowing  full  well  the  ease 
and  economy  of  thus  transporting  supplies,  and  bringing  from  the  Indian  country  their  furs  and 
peltries.  With  this  view  they  attempted  its  navigation;  success  crowned  their  efforts,  and  year 
after  year  are  they  repaid  a  hundred  fold  for  their  exertion  and  enterprise;  and  now  is  a  single 
steamer  seen  following  the  tortuous  channel  of  the  Missouri  from  St.  Louis  to  a  point  twenty-two 
hundred  miles  above  its  mouth  —  a  solitary,  but,  I  trust,  a  sure  pioneer  of  the  long  line  of  steamers 
that  may  yet  be  seen  ploughing  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  from  St.  Louis  to  the  Rocky  mount 
ains,  and  be  instrumental  in  arousing  our  people  to  a  sense  of  the  advantage  possessed  by  us,  and 
which  only  needs  an  industrious  and  persevering  hand  to  be  turned  to  our  nation's  benefit;  and 
to  these  men  be  the  credit. 

Truly  and  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 


A/rrTT     A  M 
MULLAN. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Command  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey,  Sfc. 


25.  REPORT  OF  THE  EXPLORATION  FROM  CANTONMENT  STEVENS  TO  FORT  HALL  AND  BACK,  BY 
LIEUTENANT  JOHN  MULLAN,  U.  S.  A.  J  WITH  HIS  ROUTE  UP  THE  ST.  MARY'S,  TO  AND  UP  THE 
JEFFERSON  FORK  OF  THE  MISSOURI. 

CAMP  STEVENS,  ON  THE  BITTER  ROOT  RIVER, 

Washington  Territory,  November  19,  1853. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  report  that  I  herewith  transmit  a  sketch  of  a  reconnaissance  from 
the  village  of  St.  Mary's,  on  the  Bitter  Root  river,  to  and  up  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri. 
I  left  my  camp  on  this  river  on  the  14th  of  October  last,  with  the  intention  of  making  the  con 
nexion  between  this  point  and  Fort  Hall  on  the  emigrant  road,  taking  with  me  Mr.  Owen  as 
guide,  there  being  no  Indians  at  St.  Mary's  village,  save  Pierre,  the  Iroquois.  Mr.  Owen  had 
represented  to  me  that  he  knew  the  route  full  well  between  the  two  points,  but  after  being  out  six 
or  seven  days  he  totally  mistook  his  road ;  and,  having  with  me  no  map  or  anything  to  guide  me, 


320  PROM    CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO   FORT    HALL    AND    BACK. 

I  was  compelled  to  make  the  best  use  of  the  time  and  means  at  my  disposal  that  the  circumstances 
under  which  I  was  placed  would  admit  of.  I  succeeded,  therefore,  in  making  the  connexion 
between  this  point  and  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri. 

I  followed  up  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  river  to  its  headwaters.  This  valley  retains  the 
general  character  that  it  possesses  at  or  near  the  St.  Mary's  village  for  a  distance  of  forty- three 
miles,  the  width  of  the  valley  being  from  four  to  seven  miles  up  to  this  point.  The  stream  is 
well  wooded  for  the  whole  distance  with  the  cotton-wood  and  pine.  At  the  point  referred  to, 
fortv-three  miles  from  the  St.  Mary's  village,  the  river  forks  in  two  main  branches — one  coming 
from  the  south -southeast,  and  the  second  from  the  south-southwest.  My  trail  lay  along  the  fork 
coming  from  the  south-southeast.  The  trail  also  forks  at  the  point  of  junction.  The  trail  along 
the  other  fork  is  used  by  the  Ps'ez  Forces  Indians  on  their  road  to  the  buffalo  hunt  east  of  the 
Rocky  mountains.  This  point  is  known  among  the  Flatheads  as  the  place  of  "Many  Roads," 
there  being  many  trails  crossing  and  recrossing  each  other  at  this  point.  From  this  point  the 
valley  of  the  stream  diminishes  to  its  headwaters,  a  distance  of  about  twenty-one  miles,  the  trail 
leading  over  a  very  excellent  road  to  within  six  or  -eight  miles  of  its  source,  where  the  trail  leads 
over  a  somewhat  difficult  road  for  two  or  three  miles,  crossing  what  is  termed  "Ross's  Hole 
mountain,"  leading  to  a  broad  open  prairie,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  mountains.  This  spot  is 
known  among  the  Flatheads  and  others  as  "Ross's  Hole,"  and  it  is  here  (which  I  have  from  un 
doubted  evidence,  as  there  are  men  now  living  at  the  St.  Mary's  village  who  were  present  at 
the  time)  that  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  first  saw  the  Flatheads  as  they  were  encamped  on  the 
Bitter  Root  river.  Our  road  lay  over  this  prairie  to  the  foot  of  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Missouri 
and  Columbia  waters,  up  to  which  point  there  is  a  good  wagon  road,  save  the  crossing  of  "Ross's 
Hole  mountain;"  which,  however,  can  be  avoided  by  following  the  bending  of  the  stream  through 
a  canon  of  the  mountains.  On  our  return,  I,  with  a  portion  of  the  party,  came  through  this  canon 
without  any  difficulty;  and,  in  order  to  be  made  a  good  wagon-road,  it  needs  only  to  be  cleared 
of  timber  and  brush- wood.  The  ascent  over  the  divide  is  very  steep,  and  near  the  summit  some 
what  difficult. 

The  mountain  of  the  divide  over  which  the  trail  leads  is  known  as  the  "Big  Hole  mountain." 
I  think  that  empty  wagons  can  ascend  it,  however,  with  not  much  difficulty,  though,  as  yet,  none 
have  ever  crossed  it  in  going  towards  the  east.  The  descent,  however,  on  the  Missouri  side,  is 
very  gradual  and  over  a  most  excellent  road,  leading  to  a  broad  open  prairie,  through  which 
flows  a  series  of  streams,  forming  the  Wisdom  river  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri.  Imme 
diately  upon  crossing  the  divide  we  fell  upon  one  of  these  streams,  which  we  followed  down  to  the 
open  prairie,  which  was  about  thirty  miles  in  width.  The  geological  character  of  the  country  up 
to  this  point,  from  the  St.  Mary's  village,  is  about  one  and  the  same ;  the  rocks  being  principally 
granite  and  basaltic  rocks  out  of  place.  Arriving,  however,  at  the  range  of  hills  or  mountains 
forming  the  eastern  boundary  of  this  prairie,  the  rock  changes  to  a  conglomerate  formation, 
having  no  general  direction.  This  conglomerate  rock  is  formed  of  rounded  pebble-stones  and 
broken  pieces  of  rock  cemented  together  by  a  calcareous  cement.  This  formation  also  occurs  to 
a  very  great  extent  along  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri. 

All  of  the  streams  forming  the  Wisdom  river  are  unwooded,  save  by  the  willow,  except  the 
stream  along  which  our  trail  lay,  which  was  well  wooded  with  the  pine,  which,  near  the  summit 
of  the  divide,  was  the  spruce  arid  white,  growing  small  and  scrubby  ;  but  the  farther  we  descended 
the  valley  of  the  stream,  the  larger  and  better  became  the  timber,  till,  reaching  near  the  open 
prairie,  the  trees  became  straight,  and  growing  to  a  height  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet,  the  pine  then 
becoming  the  spruce  and  yellow-pine ;  but  little  cotton-wood  was  to  be  seen  along  the  whole 
length  of  the  stream.  After  leaving  the  "Big  Hole"  prairie,  our  trail  lay  over  a  very  low  divide 
of  a  gradual  ascent  and  descent  to  a  second  prairie,  through  which  flows  a  second  stream  tribu 
tary  to  the  Jefferson  fork,  along  which  we  followed  till  we  struck  the  main  fork,  or  main  stream 
of  the  fork.  The  greater  portion  of  this  stream  leads  through  a  sage  plain,  or  at  least  for  half  the 


FROM   CANTONMENT    STEVENS   TO    FORT   HALL   AND   BACK.  321 

distance  ;  this  plain,  or  prairie,  being  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  high  ridges  of  mountains.  We 
followed  along  this  stream  till  it  led  us  to  the  ridge  of  mountains  forming  the  eastern  limit  of  the 
prairie,  where  the  stream  enters  the  canon  of  the  mountains ;  our  course  lay  through  this  canon, 
over  a  very  rough  and  rugged  road,  for  twelve  or  fifteen  miles,  leading  us  at  times  over  very  dif 
ficult  hills,  at  times  down  rough  and  steep  declivities,  and  at  times  compelling  us  to  take  the  bed 
of  the  river.  After  passing  over  this  exceedingly  rugged  road,  where  the  canon  was  about  three 
hundred  yards  wide  at  its  greatest  width,  we  entered  into  a  prairie  valley,  still  .following  the 
direction  of  the  stream,  which  we  followed  down  till  we  struck  the  main  stream  of  the  Jefferson 
fork,  which  we  found  to  be  a  bold  stream  of  twenty-five  yards  in  width,  rapid  current,  and  about 
three  feet  deep,  un wooded  save  with  the  willow.  The  course  of  this  stream,  at  the  point  where 
we  struck  it,  was  north  30°  west,  which  was  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  junction  with 
the  tributary  along  which  we  had  been  following ;  from  the  junction  the  stream  took  a  bend  to 
the  north  40°  east,  flowing  in  this  direction  till,  by  its  windings  through  the  mountains,  it  was  lost 
to  view.  Our  course  lay  up  the  main  stream  for  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles,  through  a  beautiful 
prairie  valley  of  from  twelve  to  fifteen  miles  in  width,  till  we  arrived  at  the  junction  of  a  large 
tributary  coming  in  through  the  south-southeast,  winding  through  a  very  beautiful  and  broad, 
level  prairie  valley ;  from  this  junction  the  stream  bore  from  the  south  of  west  a  few  degrees,  our 
trail  during  the  meanwhile  leading  over  a  very  excellent  and  level  road.  The  valley  of  this  stream 
was  from  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  in  width;  the  stream  along  its  banks  being  lined  with  the  willow, 
growing  to  the  height  of  twenty  feet.  No  timber  was  to  be  seen  through  the  whole  valley,  save 
a  few  scattering  cotton-wood  trees;  at  times  on  the  main  stream,  and  at  times  on  some  of  the 
small  mountain  tributaries.  We  followed  up  this  road  for  a  distance  of  twenty  miles  on  this 
stream,  (an  excellent  road,)  till  it  opened  into  a  large  prairie,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  high 
mountains,  many  of  the  peaks  being  perpetually  snow-clad.  The  stream  forks  in  this  prairie, 
coming  from  the  mountains  by  two  separate  and  distinct  gaps  ;  the  direction  of  one  being  nearly 
west,  and  the  other  a  few  degrees  south  of  west.  My  course  tended  along  the  northern  branch  of 
the  two,  which  we  followed  up  for  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles  to  its  source;  making  the 
whole,  distance  travelled  up  the  fork  about  sixty  miles  from  the  point  of  striking  it  after  having 
left  Wisdom  river.  The  gap  of  the  mountains  through  which  this  branch  of  the  fork  flows  is  about 
five  hundred  yards  wide ;  the  tops  and  slopes  of  the  mountains  on  each  side  were  well  clad  with 
the  pine,  growing  to  a  height  of  fifty  feet.  It  was  following  up  this  branch  that  we  first  met  with 
ice  and  snow,  some  of  the  small  streams  being  so  thickly  frozen  that  our  anirmls  passed  over 
without  breaking  the  ice  ;  we  had  snow  about  two  inches  deep  in  ascending  the  valley.  Follow 
ing  the  branch  to  its  source,  we  arrived  at  a  divide  of  a  very  gradual  and  beautiful  ascent  and 
descent,  which  led  us  into  the  southern  portion  of  a  large  prairie,  known  and  before  referred  to  as 
the  "  Big  Hole  "  prairie.  This  divide  is  also  well  wooded  with  the  pine,  growing  to  a  height  of 
seventy  and  eighty  feet,  and  perfectly  straight.  We  followed  a  small  trail  over  this  divide  till 
we  struck  the  main  trail,  which  we  had  travelled  on  when  we  left  "Big  Hole."  We  again  took 
the  trail,  and  followed  it  to  our  camp  of  this  river.  I  would  remark,  that  in  this  "Big  Hole" 
prairie  there  is  a  series  of  boiling  springs,  where  the  water  issues  from  the  ground  so  exceedingly 
hot  that  you  cannot  bear  your  hand  in  it  for  a  moment.  These  hot  springs  are  so  numerous  that 
the  water  from  them  forms  quite  a  large  stream,  and  of  a  cold,  frosty  morning  the  vapor  rises 
from  the  surface,  and  as  seen  from  a  distance  looks  like  a  large  cloud  of  smoke.  The  grass  near 
the  springs  is  dry  and  parched,  and  at  a  distance  gives  the  appearance  of  a  burnt  prairie.  I  have 
understood,  also,  that  about  twenty-five  miles  north  of  the  "Big  Hole"  there  is  another  series  of 
these  "  hot  springs."  The  water  from  these  springs  has  no  unpleasant  taste  whatever,  though 
the  stones  and  weeds  over  which  it  flows  are  covered  with  a  green  incrustation.  On  the  greater 
part  of  the  route  game  is  to  be  seen,  consisting  of  elk,  antelope,  moose,  bear,  deer,  ducks,  and 
geese.  We  found  very  good  grass,  also,  on  most  part  of  the  route ;  our  animals,  however,  did 
not  stand  the  trip  well,  as  thev  were  all  weak  and  had  been  broken  down  before  they  started  on 


322  FROM    BITTER    ROOT   VALLEY   TO    FORT    HALL. 

the  trip.  I  think  the  road  from  here  to  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri  can  be  made  a  good 
road  for  wagons  in  going  towards  the  south.  Wagons  have  never  as  yet  passed  over  this  road 
in  going  to  the  south — it  being  thought,  by  those  living  here,  perfectly  impracticable — though 
wagons  from  below  have  passed  over  il  in  going  to  the  north.  We  had  snow  when  recrossing 
the  "Bi<*  Hole  mountain"  to  a  depth  of  three  inches.  Should  the  weather  be  sufficiently  mild, 
I  think  that  this  reconnaissance  will  be  followed  by  one  of  greater  extent  and  of  greater  interest. 

Truly,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  MULLAN, 

Lieutenant  U.  S.  Army. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Command  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey,  fa. 


REPORT  OF  A  RECONNAISSANCE  FROM   THE    BITTER  ROOT  VALLEY   TO  FORT  HALL,  THENCE  TO 
THE  HEAD  OF  HELL  GATE  RIVER,  THENCE  TO  THE  BITTER  ROOT  VALLEY. 

CANTONMENT  STEVENS,  BITTER  ROOT  VALLEY, 

Washington  Territory,  January  21,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  report,  that,  in  conformity  to  the  paragraph  of  your  letter  of  instruc 
tions,  dated  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  October  3,  ]S53,  directing  me  "  to  continue  the  exploration 
of  the  country  between  the  Rocky  and  Bitter  Root  ranges  of  mountains,  extending  to  Fort  Hall, 
to  connect  with  the  survey  of  Colonel  Fremont,  and  northward  to  the  Feather  lake,  and  even  to  the 
upper  waters  of  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,"  I  left  my  camp  on  the  Bitter  Root  river  on  the 
25th  of  November,  1853,  to  reconnoitre  the  country  between  the  Bitter  Root  valley  and  Lewis's 
fork  of  the  Columbia  as  far  as  Fort  Hall,  taking  with  me  as  guide  Gabriel,  the  Flathead  inter 
preter;  Mr.  Adams,  artist;  and  Corporals  Rose,  Simpson,  and  Gates,  of  the  detachment  left  in 
the  Bitter  Root  valley.  The  general  course  intended  to  be  followed  was  up  the  Bitter  Root  valley 
to  its  headwaters,  thence  across  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  waters,  crossing 
the  main  stream  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  following  up  one  of  its  head  branches  to 
the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Snake  river  waters,  to  the  Snake  river  valley,  or  the  valley  of  Lewis's 
fork  of  the  Columbia;  our  return  route  to  be  governed  entirely  by  circumstances  and  the  char 
acter  of  the  season.  I  have  already  submitted  for  your  consideration  a  brief  report,  giving  a 
general  description  of  the  route  travelled,  the  character  of  the  streams,  mountains,  prominent 
landmarks,  &c.,  intending  that  it  should  be  followed  by  a  more  full  and  detailed  report,  giving  a 
description  of  each  portion  of  the  route  followed,  the  character  and  features  of  the  immense  bed 
of  mountains  extending  over  three  and  a  half  degrees  of  latitude,  which,  being  travelled  at  such 
a  late  season,  naturally  adds  to  the  already  interesting  character  of  the  route  ;  together  with  such 
information,  facts,  and  incidents  as  our  trip  called  forth.  In  order,  therefore,  to  do  justice  to  the 
description  of  each  point  of  the  route,  and  lay  it  before  you  as  we  found  it,  I  have  made  such 
extracts  from  my  daily  journal  as  will  go  to  show  the  nature  and  character  of  the  country,  its 
capability,  adaptation  to  useful  purposes,  its  practicability  for  wagon  trains,  and  such  facts  of 
general  interest  as  a  new  and  unexplored  route  naturally  developed.  Owing  to  many  and  unfore 
seen  contingencies,  straying  away  of  animals,  &c.,  we  were  unable  to  make  more  than  seventeen 
miles  of  our  journey  up  to  the  1st  of  December,  when  we  camped  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Bitter 
Root  river.  We  started  with  ten  mules  and  fifteen  horses,  whose  ability  to  withstand  the  fatigues 
of  the  long  journey  we  very  much  doubted;  but  being  the  best  we  could  then  find  in  our  large 
band  of  animals  in  the  valley,  we  determined  to  undertake  the  trip  with  these  rather  than  defer 
it  to  a  later  period,  as  the- season  was  so  far  advanced  that,  should  we  not  take  advantage  of  the 
present  opportunity,  we  would  be  compelled  to  leave  the  work  untouched  till  late  in  the  spring. 

We  heard  news  to-day  from  the  States  for  the  first  time  since  last  May,  which  told  of  antici- 


FROM    BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY   TO   FORT    HALL.  323 

pated  difficulties  with  Mexico;  but  even  news  of  such  an  interesting  character  as  this  had  lost 
much  of  its  interest  for  us;  isolated  as  we  were  in  the  very  heart  of  the  mountains,  cut  off  from 
both  East  and  West,  we  lost  sight  of,  for  the  moment,  the  deep  interest  that  must  be  felt  at  home 
at  the  prospect  of  our  nation  being  again  engaged  in  war.  But  our  feelings  and  interests  at  present 
lay  in  an  entirely  different  quarter  and  much  nearer  ourselves.  We  were  travelling  over  new  and 
untrodden  ground,  which  made  our  labor  a  pleasure,  and  that  gave  a  zest  to  our  every  enjoyment. 

We  passed,  during  the  afternoon,  two  small  creeks  coming  in  from  the  east — the  first  called,  in 
Flathead,  the  Shaikahole,  (or  the  Many-roads  creek;)  the  second,  the  Fabulous,  (or  Weeping- 
child's  creek.)  The  soil  of  this  portion  of  the  valley  is  principally  of  a  rich  dark-colored  loam, 
mingled  at  times  with  much  sand  and  gravel,  the  whole  being  covered  with  a  growth  of  rich  and 
luxuriant  grass.  This  portion  of  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  and  in  fact  the  whole  of  the  valley  from 
Hell  Gate  to  the  two  main  forks  of  the  river,  is  well  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  agriculture. 
Wheat  and  potatoes  have  been  found  to  grow  here  exceedingly  well,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that 
all  garden  vegetables  might  be  cultivated  in  rich  abundance.  Its  principal  capability  arid  recom 
mendation,  however,  consists  in  its  fine  prairie  fields,  where  can  graze  thousands  of  head  of  cattle 
and  horses.  There  are  now  several  thousand  head  of  cattle  and  horses  roaming  these  fine  grazing 
fields;  and  yet  this  number  seems  lost  in  the  broad  areas  over  which  nature  has  so  plenteously 
and  bounteously  spread  such  a  perpetual  growth  of  rich  and  luxuriant  grass.  It  has  been  noted 
as  a  somewhat  notorious  fact,  that  when  other  valleys  of  the  mountains  are  covered  with  snow, 
in  this  valley  perpetual  spring  is  found  to  reign  through  nearly  every  year.  There  are,  too, 
many  beautiful  mountain  streams  running  through  these  prairies,  which  seem  to  have  been 
intended  by  nature  for  some  good  and  useful  purpose;  and,  in  my  judgment,  many  years  will 
not  elapse  before  this  valley  of  perpetual  verdure  will  be  one  villaged  valley,  teeming  with  life, 
bustle,  and  business.  All  it  now  needs  to  become  this  is  to  have  the  incursions  and  depredations 
of  the  Blackfeet  cease,  and  soon  will  be  seen  growing  up  a  rich  and  animated  bourg,  extending 
throughout  the  whole  length  and  breadth  of  this  beautiful  valley.  The  river,  with  many  bends 
up  to  our  night's  camp,  and  flowing  with  an  exceedingly  rapid  current,  is  well  wooded  with  the 
cotton-wood  and  pine — the  former  being  by  far  the  most  abundant.  This  tree,  called  by  some 
the  "tree  of  the  prairie,"  seems  to  have  been  nature's  favorite  in  this  section  of  country.  Although 
a  very  beautiful  tree,  it  seems  to  me  it  would  have  been  far  better  had  nature  scattered  a  little 
more  variety  in  her  distribution  of  forest  trees  in  this  region.  From  what  I  have  seen  of  the 
cotton-wood  in  this  section,  it  seems  to  me  to  be  a  native  of  low,  sandy  soils,  not  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  any  other  tree  save  the  pine  or  the  willow,  which  are  its  attendants.  This  tree,  which 
resembles  very  much  the  poplar  of  the  States,  though  smaller,  grows  almost  perfectly  straight, 
and  to  a  height  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet.  The  wood  is  exceedingly  soft,  and  not  well  adapted  to 
any  purpose  save  that  of  fuel.  It  is  said,  by  those  who  have  tried  it,  to  rot  after  being  cut  a 
year  or  two ;  totally  unlike  the  pine,  its  neighbor,  which  grows  to  great  heights,  and  is  exceedingly 
durable.  We  found  the  mountains  on  each  side  of  the  valley  covered  with  snow  from  base  to 
summit,  though  no  traces  of  snow  are  to  be  met  with  in  the  valley.  Several  lodges  of  a  Nez 
Perces  camp  passed  us  during  the  day,  on  their  way  to  meet  the  main  camp  of  the  Nez  Perces 
Indians,  just  returning  from  the  buffalo  hunt.  We  expect  to  meet  this  camp  in  a  day  or  two. 

Friday,  December  2. — Commences  mild  and  pleasant,  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  44°  Fah 
renheit.  We  resumed  our  march  this  morning  about  eight  a.  m.,  our  course  tending  a  few  degrees 
east  of  south,  and  up  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  which  we  crossed  twice  during  the  day, 
finding  the  current  exceedingly  rapid,  and  the  ford  about  two  feet  deep  at  each  crossing.  Like 
nearly  all  mountainous  streams,  its  bed  is  exceedingly  rocky  and  pebbly,  its  general  width  being 
about  thirty  yards.  The  valley  of  the  stream  we  find  gradually  diminishing  as  we  ascend  it,  but 
still  continues  to  be  well  wooded,  the  pine  to-day  appearing  in  much  greater  abundance  than  the 
cotton-wood.  This  pine  grows  to  a  height  of  from  seventy  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and 
perfectly  straight.  The  bark  is  of  a  reddish  yellow  color ;  the  burr  or  ball  being  from  three  to 


324  FROM    BITTER   ROOT   VALLEY   TO    FORT    HALL. 

five  inches  long.  The  greater  portion  of  this  clay's  journey  lay  over  a  succession  of  prairie  fields 
of  the  valley,  at  times  passing  through  small  groves  and  forests  of  pine.  We  crossed,  during  this 
day,  two  small  streams  coming  in  from  the  west,  and  a  small  creek  from  the  east.  At  the  head 
of  the  tirst  one  is  a  large  and  beautiful  lake.  The  lake  is  about  three  miles  long  and  a  mile  and 
a  quarter  broad,  its  outlet  being  the  small  stream  emptying  into  the  Bitter  Root  river  from  the 
west.  This  stream  is  about  twenty-five  feet  wide,  "rocky  bed,  and  an  exceedingly  rapid  current. 
It  Hows,  until  it  reaches  near  the  base  of  the  mountains,  through  a  beautiful  prairie  bottom.  This 
lake  is  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  on  the  left.  We  were  attended  on  this  day  by  "  Thorn's"  camp 
and  several  Nez  Perces  Indians,  who  were  on  their  way  to  the  mountains  for  certain  caches  there 
hid.  This  day  has  been  mild,  though  cloudy  and  hazy,  the  thermometer  at  noon  standing  at  47°. 
We  made  during  this  day  but  eighteen  miles,  intending  that  this  and  to-morrow's  journey  should 
be  short  day  marches;  at  the  end  of  which  we  should  have  a  high  snow- mountain  to  cross,  in 
addition  to  a  journey  of  about  thirty  miles. 

In  the  evening,  about  7  p.  m.,  we  were  visited  by  a  gentle  shower  of  rain,  the  wind  blowing 
moderately  at  the  time  from  the  S.S.W.  The  night  was  mild,  the  thermometer  being  at  40°  at 
9  p.  m. 

December  3,  1853. — Commences  pleasant ;  slightly  cloudy  ;  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being 
33°.  The  rain  of  last  night  has  rendered  everything  very  wet  this  morning,  though  the  atmo 
sphere  is  clear  and  pure.  We  started  on  our  journey  at  8  a.  m.,  still  continuing  up  the  valley  of 
the  Bitter  Root  river,  which  we  recrossed  six  times  during  the  day,  the  valley  diminishing  to 
about  one  mile  in  width,  till  near  the  headwaters  of  the  stream  it  diminishes  to  about  live 
hundred  yards.  We  found  the  upper  portion  of  this  valley  wooded  with  the  pine  solely,  growing 
to  a  height  of  one  hundred  feet,  and  many  of  them  being  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  perfectly 
straight.  The  river  forked  just  above  our  camp  of  last  night,  one  trail  tending  along  the  north 
or  east  fork.  (The  southern  or  western  fork  was  followed  by  Mr.  Tinkham  to  Fort  Wallah- 
Wallah.)  The  river  we  found  rapid,  and  making  many  bends,  for  a  distance  of  about  twenty 
miles,  when  our  course  tending  more  to  the  east,  we  left  the  main  stream,  following  along  the  bed 
of  a  small  head-branch  now  dry,  which  led  over  a  mountain  about  1,000  feet  high,  called  "Ross's 
Hole"  mountain.  On  the  summit  of  this  mountain  we  found  snow  about  two  inches  deep.  Mr. 
Adams  followed  the  river  up  along  its  many  windings,  passing  through  the  canon  of  the  mount- 
tains,  and  meeting  us  in  the  prairie  known  as  "Ross's  Hole"  prairie.  Our  ascent  up  this  mountain 
was  somewhat  rugged  and  steep,  but  affording  a  sufficient  passage  for  pack-animals.  The 
road  for  wagons  passes  to  the  left  of  this.  Our  descent  was  nearly  as  steep  as  our  ascent, 
though  over  a  much  better  road,  our  trail  in  ascending  the  mountain  being  covered  during  nearly 
the  whole  of  the  distance  with  sharp  and  broken  fragments  of  granite-rock,  making  the  travelling 
bad  for  the  feet  of  our  animals.  We  met,  while  crossing  this  mountain,  a  portion  of  the  Nez 
Perces  camp  passing  to  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  river.  They  had  with  them  many  animals, 
and  most  of  them  loaded  with  heavy  bales  of  dried  meat  and  furs.  The  first  we  met  were  old 
men  and  women,  who  seemed,  with  innumerable  children,  to  form  the  vanguard.  I  must  say 
that  I  have  never  seen  a  more  miserable-looking  set  of  creatures.  Some  were  blind,  some 
decrepit,  some  who  had  seen  four-score  and  ten,  and  some  five-score  years.  Those  who  were 
dried  up  and  withered,  and  good  for  nothing  else,  formed  the  top  pack  of  an  animal  already 
loaded  \vith  two  bales  of  dried  meat.  Thus  we  met  them  in  the  dividing  ridge,  and  the  exulta 
tion  of  meeting  in  such  a  place  with  the  whites  was  loud  and  frequent,  and  from  every  small 
band  we  met  would  be  heard  the  word  "tucktons,  tucktons" — friends,  friends.  They  were  anxious 
to  know  where  we  were  from  and  where  we  were  going.  Having  fully  satisfied  them,  each 
took  his  own  road. 

After  crossing  Ross's  Hole  mountain,  our  road  lay  across  the  southern  portion  of  a  beautiful 
prairie,  known  in  this  section  as  Ross's  Hole  prairie,  or  simply  Ross's  Hole.  This  prairie  is 
about  four  miles  broad  and  fourteen  miles  long.  The  wagon  road  from  Fort  Hall  leads  up  this 


FROM    BITTER   ROOT    VALLEY    TO    FORT    HALL.  325 

valley,  passing  over  the  mountain  about  twelve  miles  north  of  the  divide,  where  we  crossed  it. 
In  this  prairie  bottom  we  found  encamped  several  lodges  of  the  Nez  Perces  Indians,  wilh  large 
bands  of  horses.  We  crossed  the  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  running  through  this  prairie,  through 
which  flow  two  other  head  branches  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  the  extreme  source  being  about 
four  miles  to  the  east,  coming  from  a  range  of  mountains  forming  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Mis 
souri  and  Columbia  waters.  We  found  the  grass  up  the  valley,  and  especially  in  this  prairie 
bottom,  most  excellent.  Such  prairies  as  the  one  met  to-day,  and  to  be  met  with  in  crossing  the 
mountains  in  every  direction,  are  called  "Holes."  In  fact,  the  Rocky  mountains  in  ihis  region 
are  made  up  of  ridges  of  mountains  and  patches  of  prairies,  varying  from  ten  to  thirty  miles  in 
length,  and  as  many  in  width.  In  Ross's  Hole  the  grass  we  found  to  be  about  six  inches  long  and 
quite  green.  The  day  has  been  very  mild  arid  pleasant,  the  genial  rays  of  the  sun  making  every 
thing  bright  and  summer-like;  the  thermometer  at  2  p.  m.  standing  47°,  at  9  p.  m.  30°;  and 
during  the  afternoon  we  were  visited  by  a  slight  shower  of  rain.  We  made  during  the  day 
twenty-five  miles,  and  camped  on  the  extreme  south  branch  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  where  we 
found  good  grass,  wood,  and  water.  Our  camp  being  only  a  few  yards  distant  from  about  twelve 
or  fifteen  lodges  of  the  Nez  Perces,  they  were  anxious  and  curious  to  know  our  business  through 
this  portion  of  the  mountains.  We  were  visited  during  the  night  by  numbers  of  them,  who  sat 
up  talking  around  our  camp-fires  till  near  midnight.  They  told  us  they  were  just  returning,  with 
their  families,  from  the  buffalo  hunt;  that  they  had  with  them  on  the  hunt  about  eighty  lodges, 
and  that  they  were  on  their  way  to  the  main  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  where  they  intended 
passing  the  winter.  They  were  very  glad  to  see  us,  and  leaving  the  next  morning  they  all  assem 
bled  to  bid  us  God- speed.  The  Ross's  Hole  referred  to  is  where  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  first 
met  the  Flatheads  on  their  expedition  to  the  Pacific  in  1804.  There  is  a  chief  among  the  Flat- 
heads  by  the  name  of  Moise,  who  told  me  that  he  was  present  when  Lewis  and  Clark  visited 
their  camp  in  Ross's  Hole,  and  that  they  took  what  is  known  here  as  the  Southern  Nez  Perces 
trail  (the  same  that  Mr.  Tinkham  followed  to  Wallah-Wallah)  on  their  way  to  the  Pacific,  fol 
lowing  the  Bitter  Root  river  to  its  forks. 

December  4,  1853. — Commences  pleasant,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  standing  at  38°  Fahren 
heit.  We  were  delayed  till  nearly  eleven  o'clock,  our  animals  having  strayed  some  miles  from 
camp.  By  invitation,  the  chief  of  the  Nez  Perces  visited  our  camp,  and  took  breakfast  with  us. 
Having,  after  a  long  search,  found  our  animals,  we  commenced  our  day's  march  by  ascending  a 
very  high  and  steep  mountain,  known  as  the  Big  Hole  mountain.  The  western  slope  of  this 
mountain  we  found  perfectly  clear  of  snow,  affording  a  very  excellent  road,  though  up  a  very 
steep  ascent.  On  arriving  near  its  summit  we  found  the  snow  twelve  inches  deep;  the  ther 
mometer,  which  at  its  base  stood  47°,  on  its  summit  stood  36°;  we  were  one  hour  and  a 
quarter  in  ascending  this  mountain.  Very  fortunately,  the  Nez  Perces,  who  had  just  crossed  the 
mountain  wilh  several  hundred  horses,  had  beaten  the  road  well  for  us,  affording  an  excellent 
path  till  we  reached  the  Big  Hole  prairie.  This  mountain  is  about  six  thousand  feet  high,  and 
its  summit  snow-capped;  wagons  coming  from  Fort  Hall  cross  it.  The  road  is  very  good  for 
loaded  wagons  in  descending  the  western  slope,  but  in  ascending  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  it  is 
impracticable.  There  is  no  difficulty  for  empty  wagons,  however,  in  ascending  it.  The  descent 
towards  the  Missouri  side  is  very  gradual — so  much  so,  that  were  it  not  for  the  direction  taken 
by  the  water,  you  would  think  you  were"  passing  over  almost  a  level  prairie  valley.  This 
mountain  is  covered  with  the  white  pine,  growing  to  a  height  of  from  fifty  to  seventy  feet.  We 
found  the  mountain  to  be  of  a  granite  formation,  a  specimen  of  which  was  collected  from  some 
broken  fragments  that  lay  along  the  slopes  of  the  mountain.  This  is  the  same  formation  as  occurs 
throughout  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  with  the  exception  that  the  mica  is  not  found  in  such  large 
quantities.  We  passed  several  Nez  Perces  lodges  in  crossing  the  mountain,  wilh  many  animals 
loaded  with  meat  and  furs.  This  has  been  a  great  hunting  season  with  all  the  Indians,  both  east 
arid  west  of  the  mountain.  Hundreds  of  thousands  of  buffalo  have  been  slain,  and  small  game — 


326  FROM    BITTER   ROOT   VALLEY   TO    FORT    HALL. 

consisting  of  antelope,  deer,  beaver,  &c. — has  been  almost  innumerable.  The  Flatheads,  also, 
\vho  arrived  from  the  hunt  a  few  days  before  we  left  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  came  in  loaded  with 
meat  and  furs.  This  day  has  been  from  12  m.  cloudy,  with  every  appearance  of  snow,  the  ther 
mometer  at  2  p.  m.  standing  at  36°.  After  crossing  the  Big  Hole  mountain  we  fell  upon  a 
branch  of  the  Wisdom  river,  which  is  a  tributary  to  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri.  This 
branch  flows  through  a  well  timbered  valley  about  two  miles  in  width,  and  occasionally  forming 
patches  of  prairie  from  six  to  twelve  miles  in  length  and  three  to  four  in  width.  It  receives  many 
small  tributaries  running  from  the  mountain  ridges  on  each  side  in  every  possible  direction.  We 
followed  along  the  main  branch  of  this  mountain  stream  for  a  distance  of  seventeen  miles,  camp 
ing  on  its  left  bank  or  a  slope  of  the  mountain,  which  we  found  clear  of  snow.  From  our  camp 
of  this  night  we  had  a  fine  view  over  a  large  and  beautiful  prairie,  called  the  Big  Hole  prairie. 
Bounding  this  prairie  on  the  east,  and  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  lay  a  high  ridge  of  snow- 
clad  mountains,  from  which  flow  in  every  direction  small  tributaries  to  the  Jeff'-rson  fork  of  the 
Missouri.  The  mountains  on  the  south  and  west  are  a  range  of  the  Salmon  River  mountains, 
separating  the  waters  of  Salmon  river  from  those  of  the  Missouri.  In  this  prairie  are  often  seen 
large  bands  of  buffalo  and  moose;  deer  and  antelope,  also,  occur  in  great  abundance.  The  night 
of  this  day  was  clear  and  cool,  the  thermometer  at  9  p.  m.  being  at  30°. 

December  5,  1853. — Commences  cool,  with  snow,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  30°.  The 
wind  during  the  night  was  quite  heavy,  blowing  from  the  south-southwest;  towards  8  a.  m., 
however,  it  became  pleasant,  when  we  resumed  our  march,  which  lay  across  the  large  prairie 
referred  to  yesterday.  On  the  western  portion  of  this  prairie  we  found  the  snow  six  inches  deep, 
while  no  snow  was  seen  on  the  eastern  portion.  We  crossed  several  prairie  streamlets  during 
the  day  which  flow  into  the  Wisdom  river,  all  of  which  were  frozen  over  sufficiently  hard  to  bear 
our  animals.  This  prairie  is  about  fifteen  miles  wide  and  fifty  long,  being  hemmed  in  on  all  sides 
by  mountains  except  towards  the  southeast,  where  is  a  gap,  through  which  issues  the  Wisdom 
river.  After  crossing  this  prairie,  at  which  time  our  course  was  15°  south  of  east,  our  trail 
tended  along  the  base  of  the  range  of  mountains  bounding  it  on  the  east;  our  course  then  becoming 
east  of  south.  This  we  followed  for  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles  farther,  over  a  very  excellent 
prairie  road.  Here  it  struck  a  small  stream  from  the  mountains,  where  we  camped,  finding  good 
grass  and  water  for  our  animals;  our  fuel  consisting  of  small  dried  willows,  which  were  the 
remnants  of  an  old  Nez  Perces  camp.  We  passed  on  the  road  of  this  day  a  large  rock,  (of  con 
glomerate,)  which  projected  from  a  large  bed  that  formed  the  western  slope  of  the  range  bound 
ing  the  prairie  on  the  east.  This  conglomerate  of  rounded  gravel-stones  and  broken  fragments  of 
rocks,  cemented  together  by  a  silicious  cement — formed  quite  a  hard  rock.  We  broke  from  it  a 
specimen,  which  is  labelled  No.  13.  This  same  rock  we  found  in  very  large  quantities  along  the 
Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  being  traced  for  a  distance  of  fifty  miles  up  the  main  stream  and  its 
principal  tributaries,  where,  however,  the  formation  is  more  water-worn,  and  occurs  in  very  large 
beds,  forming  in  some  places  bluffs  one  hundred  feet  high.  The  formation  in  the  Big  Hole  prairie 
is  the  farthest  west  that  we  have  as  yet  seen  it.  On  the  stream  where  lay  our  camp  of  this  night 
we  found  a  range  of  hot  springs,  where  the  water  bubbles  from  the  ground,  issuing  from  riearly 
one  hundred  springs.  The  stones  around  these  springs  we  found  to  be  encrusted  with  a  thick 
coating  of  lime,  and  the  bed  of  the  stream  from  which  flows  the  water  of  these  many  springs  to 
be  covered  with  a  thick,  green,  slimy  coating.  The  temperature  of  the  water  was  132° ;  its  taste  is 
riot  at  all  unpleasant,  being  that  of  pure  warm  water.  The  grass  along  the  border  of  the  stream 
is  dry  and  parched.  These  springs  are  so  numerous,  and  flow  so  freely,  that  the  water  from 
them  forms  a  large  stream,  and  the  vapor  arising  from  it  looks,  at  a  distance,  like  the  smoke  from 
a  fire  on  the  prairies.  There  is  another  range  of  these  hot  springs  in  a  prairie  north  of  this,  known 
as  "Deer  Lodge,"  which  will  be  referred  to  hereafter,  as  it  will  be  on  our  return-route.  In  the 
range  of  mountains  bounding  the  prairie  of  Big  Hole,  and  nearly  due  east  from  our  camp  of 
last  night,  and  about  twenty  miles  distant,  is  a  large  mountain  lake,  six  miles  in  length  and  four 


PROM   BITTER    ROOT   VALLEY   TO   FORT    HALL.  327 

in  width,  which  is  set  like  a  gem  in  the  mountains.  This  lake  has  no  outlet,  and  is  a  favorite 
resort  for  game.  This  lake  we  called  Lake  Davis,  in  honor  of  the  Secretary  of  War.  We  found 
during  this  day  a  beautiful  specimen  of  greenstone  on  the  range  of  mountains  on  the  eastern  side 
of  this  prairie,  which  is  labelled  No.  14.  This  day  has  been  exceedingly  mild,  the  thermometer 
at  noon  being  40°;  and  having  a  level  and  beautiful  road,  we  were  enabled  to  make  a  march  of 
thirty  miles  to  our  night's  camp,  where  we  found  grass,  which  our  tired  animals  duly  appreciated. 

December  6,  1853. — Commences  clear  and  cool,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  20°.  Re 
sumed  our  journey  about  10  a.  m.,  being  delayed  in  catching  our  animals.  Our  road  lay  over  a 
series  of  rolling  hills,  affording  a  very  good  road  for  the  distance  of  ten  miles,  where  we  crossed 
a  small  ridge  of  mountains  separating  a  tributary  of  the  Wisdom  river  from  a  more  southern  trib 
utary  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri.  The  ascent  and  descent  of  the  ridge  we  found  to  be 
very  gradual,  affording  an  excellent  wagon  road.  After  crossing  this  divide,  there  lay  to  our 
left,  and  about  five  or  six  miles  distant,  a  high  range  of  snow-clad  mountains,  along  the  western 
base  of  which  we  travelled,  (our  course  being  25°  south  of  east,)  and  arrived  at  a  point  where 
the  ridge  bore  more  to  the  east.  We  found  this  ridge  to  be  formed  of  exceedingly  hard  red 
sandstone,  fine-grained  and  compact,  a  specimen  of  which  we  collected.  After  crossing  the 
divide  above  referred  to,  our  trail  led  us  through  a  large  prairie  plain,  covered  with  the  artemisia 
or  wild  sage,  growing  to  a  height  of  from  two  to  three  feet.  When  passing  through  here  before,  a 
trail  led  us  through  a  canon  of  the  mountains,  where  we  found  the  artemisia  growing  to  a  height 
of  eight  feet,  with  a  trunk  about  twelve  inches  in  diameter.  This  formed  part  of  our  fuel  at  our 
night's  camp,  together  with  a  few  dried  willows.  This  section  is  exceedingly  barren  of  timber — 
none  whatever  to  be  seen,  save  the  pine  of  the  mountain  top,  and  at  intervals  of  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  miles  an  old  cotton-wood  tree  would  spring  into  view,  giving  a  life-like  appearance  to  an 
otherwise  dreary  prairie  road. 

Game  to-day  we  saw  none,  save  ducks  and  a  few  antelopes;  we  succeeded  in  killing  a  single 
duck,  but  we  found  the  antelopes  so  exceedingly  shy  as  to  preclude  all  possibility  of  approach, 
though  we  used  every  exertion  to  secure  one.  We  were  exceedingly  anxious  now  to  meet  with 
some  game,  as  we  had  nothing  but  bacon,  and  very  little  of  that,  as  we  started  fully  expecting 
to  meet  with  an  abundance  of  game.  This  day  has  been  exceedingly  warm  and  summer-like, 
the  thermometer  at  noon  being  53°,  but  the  night  was  exceedingly  cold.  At  9  p.  m.  the  thermom 
eter  was  12.°  We  travelled  twenty-six  miles,  camping  on  a  tributary  to  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the 
Missouri,  finding  good  grass  and  water  for  our  animals,  though  no  fuel  but  wild  sage  bushes  and 
a  few  dried  willows.  To  our  right  during  the  greater  part  of  this  day's  march  lay  the  high  range 
of  the  Salmon  River  mountains,  with  their  snow-capped  peaks  glistening  in  the  beautiful,  clear 
sunshine.  This  range  of  mountains,  as  seen  from  the  east,  is  exceedingly  beautiful  and  pic 
turesque.  They  seem  to  be  formed  of  an  innumerable  number  of  jagged  peaks,  each  vieing  with 
the  other  in  loftiness,  and  wild  but  beautiful  appearance.  We  found  but  little  snow  on  our  road 
of  this  day;  that  which  was  found  being  on  the  dividing  ridge  and  along  the  slopes  of  the  mount 
ains.  Nearly  all  the  streams  passed  were  frozen  over  so  hard  that  our  animals  passed  over  them 
without  difficulty.  Our  camp  of  this  night  was  on  the  right  bank  of  a  beautiful  little  stream,  a 
tributary  to  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  which  is  a  favorite  camping  ground  with  all  the 
Indians  and  others  passing  this  road.  Here  is  formed  by  the  willows  along  the  stream  a,  natural 
corral,  which,  during  the  spring  and  summer  season,  is  always  and  necessarily  taken  possession 
and  made  use  of,  as  it  is  here  that  the  Blackfeet  ramble  from  March  to  October.  This  is  used 
for  the  animals,  in  which  they  are  always  picketed.  We,  however,  had  no  necessity  for  this, 
since  we  supposed  the  Blackfeet  some  hundreds  of  miles  distant,  and  turned  our  animals  loose  to 
graze  around  the  camp.  This  is  a  great  thoroughfare  for  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  who,  when 
prowling  about  the  country,  perch  themselves  on  the  highest  ridges  of  the  mountains  and  buttes 
of  the  valleys,  whence,  during  the  day,  they  can  have  a  full  view  for  miles  of  the  country  around, 
and  thus  see  at  a  distance  their  prey,  which  they  watch  with  eagle-eye.  At  midnight,  when 


328  FROM    BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY    TO   FORT    HALL. 

everything  is  still  in  and  around  the  camp,  they  descend  into  the  valley,  and,  in  a  twinkling, 
stampede  and  steal  off  every  animal,  leaving  the  unfortunate  sufferers  to  wend  their  way  home 
ward  on  foot.  This  has  been  the  practice  of  the  Blackfeet  for  years  back,  and  now  they  are  the 
dread  and  scourge  of  the  mountains. 

December  7,  1853. — Commences  clear  but  cool,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  at  zero.  Last 
night  also  was  exceedingly  cool,  the  air  being  calm  and  still ;  a  short  time  after  sunrise,  however, 
it  moderated  and  became  a  summer-like  day.  This  great  difference  in  the  temperature  during 
the  night  and  day  is  somewhat  remarkable;  during  the  day  the  heated  air  seems  to  be  confined 
in  the  vallevs  of  the  mountains,  and  immediately  after  sunset  it  is  replaced  by  a  cold  current 
coming  from  the  mountains,  thus  producing  an  almost  instantaneous  change,  which  at  times  is 
exceedingly  uncomfortable. 

Our  course  during  the  earlier  part  of  this  day  (which  was  10°  east  of  south,  magnetic)  lay 
over  a  series  of  low  sandy  ridges,  covered  with  the  artemisia,  growing  from  three  to  four  feet  high. 
This  led  us  to  a  beautiful  prairie  valley  about  ten  miles  wide,  hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by  high 
mountains,  and  through  which  flows  the  southwest  branch  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri. 
This  prairie  is  known  by  the  Indians  and  half-breeds  of  the  country  as  "Horse  Prairie,"  a  name 
given  it  from  the  fact  that  many  years  ago  large  bands  of  wild  horses  were  seen  roaming  over  it. 
Our  trail  crossed  the  branch  referred  to,  which  we  found  partially  clogged  with  ice ;  the  channel, 
however,  was  open,  being  about  two  feet  deep,  with  a  very  rapid  current.  Many  small  gravelly 
islands  were  to  be  seen  in  the  river  in  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles.  To  our  right,  and 
about  eight  miles  distant,  were  to  be  seen  two  high  buttes  coming  within  a  very  short  distance  of 
each  other,  being  on  different  sides  of  the  valley,  which  at  a  distance  looks  like  a  gate  in  the 
mountains. 

Through  this  gate  the  southwestern  branch  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri  flows.  Beyond 
this,  to  the  west,  the  prairie,  widening  on  each  side,  becomes  nearly  circular,  but  still  hemmed 
in  by  the  mountains.  Through  the  range  of  mountains  bounding  it  are  three  gaps  or  passes : 
the  most  northern  tends  to  the  Big  Hole  prairie  ;  the  middle  one  leads  to  the  waters  of  the  Salmon 
river ;  the  most  southern  one  leading  to  the  waters  of  the  Snake  river,  or  southern  fork  of  Lewis 
river.  This  middle  gap  is  the  one  followed  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  in  their  expedition  to  the  Pacific 
in  1804  and  1805,  and  which  they  found  impracticable  for  their  route  to  the  Pacific.  This  south 
western  fork  of  the  Jefferson  river  is  the  one  followed  by  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark,  with  canoes, 
during  the  expedition  referred  to.  Our  trail  crossing  this  branch,  or  fork,  led  across  its  valley  till 
we  struck  the  valley  of  the  southwestern  branch,  which  we  found  to  be  the  larger  of  the  two. 
This  branch  flows  through  a  valley  about  six  or  eight  miles  wide.  The  stream  is  about  sixty  feet 
wide  and  two  feet  deep,  with  a  rapid  current,  and  pebbly  or  gravelly  bed.  It,  like  the  south 
western  branch,  is  perfectly  destitute  of  timber,  save  a  few  cotton- \vood  trees,  growing  in  clumps 
of  four  or  five,  and  at  least  twenty  miles  apart.  The  grass  in  both  valleys  is  exceedingly  fine, 
and  which  at  night  our  animals,  after  travelling  twenty-five  miles,  duly  appreciated. 

At  this  junction  of  the  mountain  valleys  is  a  high  ridge  of  brownish  colored  stone,  about  four  hun 
dred  feet  high,  which  has  been  worn  by  the  weather  into  every  possible  fantastic  shape.  Arch, 
dome,  steeple,  cave,  each  has  its  place  in  this  singular  formation.  Its  upper  portion  seems  to 
be  tenanted  by  the  feathered  tribe,  while  that  near  the  base  seems  to  be  formed  into  numerous 
caves,  where  the  bear  and  wolf  has  each  its  lodging.  Game  to-day  we  saw  none,  save  a  few 
hirge  prairie-hen  or  heath-cock,  and  a  few  white  hares  with  red  ears;  these  latter  being  much 
larger  ti  an  the  ordinary  rabbit  of  the  East.  This  place  is  generally  a  favorite  resort  for  game; 
but,  unfortunately  for  us,  it  seemed  to  be  most  scarce  when  the  necessity  for  it  was  the  greatest. 
[  should  mention,  however,  that  we  did  kill  one  prairie  chicken,  which  at  night,  with  a  cup  of 
tea  and  hard  bread,  made  us  an  ample  repast.  At  our  camp  of  this  night  we  found  a  few  cotton- 
wood  trees,  which  afforded  us  an  abundance  of  fuel,  being  to  us  a  pleasant  change  from  the  last 
few  nights,  when  our  fuel  consisted  of  wild  sage  bushes  and  willows. 


FROM   BITTER   ROOT   VALLEY   TO   FORT    HALL.  329 

Both  branches  of  the  Jefferson  fork  are  lined  with  willow  bushes,  growing  from  five  to  six  feet 
high.  On  our  road  of  this  day  we  met  two  Banax  Indians,  who  had  just  crossed  the  mountains 
from  Salmon  river.  They  had  nothing  to  eat,  and  no  arms  to  procure  any  kind  of  game.  They 
asked  me  for  a  few  matches,  and  seemed  perfectly  contented.  They  were  two  days'  march 
from  their  village,  and  had  crossed  the  mountains  with  a  prospect  of  meeting  some  of  their  friends 
returning  from  the  hunt.  Having  with  them  a  stray  horse,  they  proposed  an  exchange  with  one 
of  mine  ;  but  not  agreeing  in  a  bargain,  we  each  took  our  respective  routes.  These  are  very  fine, 
intelligent  looking  Indians;  their  language  is  euphonious,  and  is  different  from  that  of  any  other 
tribe  west  of  the  mountains.  Their  band  at  present  numbers  but  a  few  lodges,  having  been  more 
than  decimated  by  the  ravages  of  the  smallpox  and  inroads  of  the  Blackfeet.  The  most  of  them 
now  inhabit  the  country  near  the  Salmon  river,  where,  in  their  solitude  and  security,  they  live 
perfectly  contented  in  spearing  the  salmon,  and  living  on  roots  and  berries.  The  night  of  this 
day  was  clear  and  cool,  the  thermometer  being  27°  Fah.  at  sunset. 

December  8,  1853. — Commences  clear  and  pleasant,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  at  23°. 
The  frost  last  night  was  very  heavy.  Our  journey  of  this  day  lay  up  the  valley  of  the  southeast 
branch  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  which  valley,  as  referred  to  yesterday,  is  called  the 
"Red  Butte  Valley,"  from  the  fact  that  there  is  a  range  of  red  buttes  bordering  the  stream  on  the 
east,  and  about  twenty  miles  above  the  junction  of  the  forks.  I  crossed  the  river  to  examine  these 
buttes,  and  found  them  to  be  composed  of  red  baked  clay,  mingled  with  rounded  gravel- stones, 
and  the  whole  so  compact  as  to  form  quite  a  hard  rock.  The  formation  gave  undoubted  evidence 
of  the  action  of  fire.  The  portion  of  the  valley  bordering  these  buttes  is  formed  of  a  reddish  clay, 
a  soil  resulting  from  the  washings  of  these  buttes,  upon  which  grows  nothing  but  the  arternisia, 
or  wild  sage.  These  buttes,  forming  a  range  of  about  two  miles  in  length  arid  five  hundred  feet 
high,  constitute  a  prominent  land-mark  in  the  valley  ;  hence  the  name  of  the  "Red  Butte  Valley." 
As  we  ascended  this  valley,  we  found  it  to  increase  in  width  till  we  arrived  at  the  base  of  the 
mountains  bounding  it  on  the  south,  where  the  width  of  the  valley  was  about  eight  miles.  It  is 
bounded  on  each  side  by  ridges  of  mountains,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  feet  high,  and  per 
fectly  barren  of  timber,  save  on  the  south,  which  are  wooded  with  the  pine  and  cedar,  growing 
very  small.  We  found  the  soil  of  this  valley  principally  of  a  yellowish  or  grayish  yellow  colored 
clay,  upon  which,  throughout  its  whole  length,  the  wild  sage  grows  in  the  greatest  abundance. 
On  the  lower  and  the  upper  portion  of  this  valley  we  found  the  grass  to  be  exceedingly  rich,  but 
near  the  middle  nothing  growing  save  the  wild  sage  bushes.  About  fifteen  miles  from  our  camp 
of  last  night  we  found  the  river  for  a  distance  of  several  miles  lined  with  the  cotton-wood,  grow 
ing  to  a  height  of  seventy  feet.  The  remaining  portion  of  the  river  and  its  several  small  tribu 
taries  are  unwooded  save  by  willow  bushes.  After  journeying  up  this  valley  for  a  distance  of 
twenty-two  miles,  our  trail  to  the  south,  and  at  a  distance  of  four  miles  the  river,  bending  to  the 
southeast,  was  lost  to  view,  as  it  wound  through  the  prairie  valley  in  the  distance.  Our  road  of 
this  day  was  exceedingly  beautiful  and  level,  but  a  strong  southwest  wind  blowing  in  our  laces, 
made  the  travelling  very  uncomfortable.  When  we  entered  the  mountains,  we  saw  a  few 
mountain  sheep. 

Our  course,  after  travelling  up  the  valley  for  a  distance  of  twenty-two  miles,  turned  to  the 
south-southwest,  and  for  a  distance  of  six  miles  we  travelled  through  a  cafion  of  ihe  mountains, 
in  which  we  found  the  bed  of  a  stream,  now  dry  and  untimbered  save  with  the  willow.  Our 
guide,  though,  told  us  that  our  camp  would  be  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  range  separating  the 
waters  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri  from  those  of  the  Snake  river,  where  we  would  find  a 
spring  and  an  abundance  of  wood.  After  winding  through  this  canon  for  six  miles,  we  reach  the 
stream  flowing  from  this  spring,  which  sinks  into  the  ground  about  two  miles  north  of  the  divide, 
which  has  the  direction  of  nearly  east  and  west.  Here  the  soil  is  principally  clay,  mingled  with 
much  gravel.  On  entering  this  gorge,  the  mountains  on  each  side  were  formed  of  a  stratified, 
friable,  light-colored  rock,  the  strata  dipping  to  the  southwest  at  an  angle  of  75°,  the  strata 
42  / 


330  FROM    BITTER   ROOT   VALLEY   TO   FORT    HALL. 

very  much  contorted.  About  two  miles  higher  up  the  gorge  this  formation  again  occurs,  but  the 
strata  are  more  horizontal,  still  dipping,  however,  to  the  west.  This  rock  is  easily  wrought 
upon  by  the  weather,  as  in  very  many  places  along  the  gorge  we  found  that  it  had  become  very 
much  disintegrated.  The  soil  of  the  whole  of  the  upper  portion  of  the  valley  is  formed  of  the 
washings  from  this  rock.  Having  travelled  a  distance  of  twenty-eight  miles,  we  encamped  at 
the  foot  of  the  Snake  river  divide,  where  we  found  good  grass  and  wood.  The  divide  being  cov 
ered  with  snow,  and  the  wind  blowing  from  it  through  the  canon  with  great  force,  we  found  the 
night  very  uncomfortable.  It  was  with  great  difficulty  our  tent  withstood  the  cold  and  severe 
gale.  The  ground  being  frozen,  our  tent-pins  had  but  little  hold.  On  account  of  the  high  wind 
of  this  night,  our  food  was  well  seasoned  with  ashes  and  cinders. 

The  wind  has  been  blowing  strong  and  steady  from  the  south-southwest  since  morning,  and  at 
night  much  stronger  and  colder  than  at  any  other  time.  The  night  was  clear  and  cool,  the  ther 
mometer  at  9  p.  in.  being  30°  ;  at  sunset  33°. 

December  9,  1S53. — Commences  cold  and  windy.     The  wind,  which  during  the  last  night  blew 
with  great  force  from  the  south-southwest,  at  sunrise  this  morning  had  not  abated  in  the  least,  the 
thermometer  being  33°.     After  travelling  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  along  the  foot  of  the  mount 
ains  separating  the  waters  of  Snake  river  from  those  of  the  Missouri,  we  found  the  ascent  quite 
steep  and  covered  with  snow  twelve  inches  deep.     It  was  with  difficulty  that  our  animals  made 
their  way  through  the  snow,  in  some  places  it  having  drifted  to  the  depth  of  three  feet.     No  one 
had  passed  over  this  road  recently,  so  we  found  no  trail  or  beaten  road.     We  found  the  weather 
exceedingly  cold  on  gaining  the  top  of  these  mounlains.     The  wind  blowing  exceedingly  strong, 
was  directly  in  our  faces,  and  it,  with  the  drifting  of  the  snow,  made  travelling  very  uncomforta 
ble.     There  was  no  one  in  the  party  whose  limbs  were  not  thoroughly  benumbed  on  arriving  at 
the  summit  of  the  divide,  and   each  one's   face  was  blue  with  cold.     On  gaining  the  summit,  to 
our  right  and  left  were  to  be  seen  immense  beds  of  high  snow-clad  ridges,  from  the  tops  of  some 
of  which  the  snow  is  never  absent.     Towards  the  Snake  river  we  could  see  far  in  the  distance 
the  bed  of  a  lake,  which  our  guide  told  us  was  a  lake  formed  by  the  Medicine  Lodge  creek;  in 
the  distance  beyond  the  lake  lay  a  high  range  of  mountains  to  the  south  of  Snake  river.     Tins 
mountain,  or  divide,  is  much  more  steep  in  descending  than  in  ascending.     We  were  compelled 
to  dismount  and  take  the  snow  on  foot.     On  gaining  its  base,  our  course  for  several  miles  lay 
through  a  winding  gorge  of  the  mountains.     After  travelling  down  it  five  or  six  miles,  we  fell  upon 
a  spring  gushing  from  the  side  of  the  mountains,  where  is  the  source  of  the  "Medicine  Lodge 
creek,"  a  name  given  it  by  the  Blackfeet  Indians  some  years  ago,  when   buffalo  were  found  in 
great  abundance  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.     On  a  certain  occasion,  when  hunting  the  buffido 
in  conjunction  with  being  occupied  in  stealing  horses  from  their  neighbors  the  Flatheads,  Snakes, 
Banax,  and  others,  the  Blackfeet  were  encamped  on  this  stream,  where  they  built  a  lodge  of  trees 
some  sixty  feet  in  height,  the  spot  being  selected  somewhere  near  the  lake  formed  by  the  river. 
Here  they  were  a  long  time  in  preparing  and  making  medicines  that  should  prove  destructive  to 
all  their  enemies.     From  this  fact  they  called  it  the  Medicine  Lodge  creek.     After  striking  this 
creek,  our  road  lay  through  its  valley  for  several  miles,  which  we  found  to  be  very  tortuous.     Its 
general  width  was  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half;  for  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles  it  forms  a 
very  pretty  prairie  valley.     The  stream  is  unwooded  save  by  the  willow,  which  grows  from  ten 
to  twelve  feet  high.     The  artemisia  or  wild  sage,  however,  is  found  in  great  abundance.     The 
soil  of  this  valley  we  found  to  be  principally  gravel,  and  apparently  unsuited  to  the  growth  of 
anything  save  the  wild  sage,  found  in  abundance  through  its  whole  length.     It  is  bordered  on 
each  side  by  walls  of  an  exceedingly  hard  white  rock,  unstratified,  the  whole  forming  a  bed  1,000 
feet  thick.     A  few  miles  farther,  the  geological  character  of  the  gorge  or  canon  entirely  changes. 
This  white-colored  rock  is  replaced  by  a  black  or  dark-colored  volcanic  rock,  from  which  we 
secured  two  very  interesting  specimens  presenting  a  honey-cornb  surface,  and  the  whole  giving 
undoubted  evidence  of  the  action  of  fire.     Near  where  these  were  collected  we  found  a  second 


FROM    BITTER    ROOT   VALLEY   TO   FORT    HALL.  331 

rock,  of  a  grayish  yellow  color,  compact,  hard,  and  striking  fire  with  steel.  The  first  mentioned 
formation  extends  many  miles  in  length,  and  is  different  from  any  rock  we  have  as  yet  met  with. 
We  saw  to-day  many  sheep  clambering  high  on  the  tops  and  slopes  of  the  mountains,  but  so  far 
distant  as  to  preclude  all  possibility  of  approach.  The  tracks  of  many  were  also  discernible 
along  our  pathway.  Our  guides  in  descending  the  mountains  did  succeed  in  approaching  and 
wounding  one,  though  not  so  badly  but  that  he  succeeded  in  making  his  escape.  It  is  truly 
wonderful  to  see  these  animals  travelling  along  the  mountain  ridges,  climbing  rocks  and 
leaping  precipices  truly  awful  to  regard  for  a  moment.  Yet,  with  the  agility  arid  fleetness  of  a 
deer,  they  make  their  way  across  these  apparently  insurmountable  obstacles,  and  seem  not  to 
regard  them.  The  enemy  they  fear  the  most  is  the  wolf,  which  often  pursues  them  in  bands. 
When  pursued  by  these,  their  only  safety  consists  in  leaping  a  precipice'or  jumping  down  some 
deep  declivity,  where  the  wolf  dare  not  venture.  Nature  here  comes  to  their  relief;  she  has 
gifted  them  with  large  strong  horns,  which  in  their  descent  of  a  steep  hill  receive  the  whole  force 
of  ihe  blow,  and  thus  protect  them  uninjured  from  their  enemy.  Our  guide  mentioned  that  a 
rule  always  followed  by  mountain  hunters  in  shooting  them  when  in  bands,  is,  that  if  you  are  at 
the  top  of  a  hill,  always  shoot  the  one  farthest  from  you,  and  the  remainder  will  be  sure  to  make 
their  way  up  the  hill  for  a  short  distance,  when,  stopping  to  see  what  has  occurred,  they  afford 
you  a  second  shot;  and  if  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  the  same  will  follow,  and  they  will  descend — 
a  freak  unfortunate  for  them,  but  affording  great  sport  for  the  hunter.  These  and  a  few  ducks 
constituted  our  game  of  to-day.  After  gaining  the  valley  of  the  Medicine  Lodge  creek  we  found 
the  weather  to  be  exceedingly  mild,  compared  to  what  we  found  it  on  crossing  the  mountains 
this  morning;  the  thermometer  at  sunset  was  32°,  and  at  9  p.  m.  26°. 

December  10,  1853. — Commences  clear  and  cool,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  22°.  Anti 
cipating  a  long  day's  march  in  order  to  reach  wood  and  water,  every  one  was  turned  out  at  an 
early  hour,  when  we  were  enabled  to  make  an  early  start.  We  had  a  slight  fall  of  snow  during 
the  night,  but  not  enough  to  cover  the  grass  from  our  animals.  During  the  early  part  of  the  day 
our  course  still  continued  through  the  gorge  of  the  mountain  referred  to  yesterday,  which  retained 
the  same  characteristic  features  as  already  mentioned.  The  sides  of  the  gorge  we  found  to  be 
mural  precipices,  formed  of  honey-combed;  scoriated  volcanic  rock,  rising  to  a  height  of  one 
thousand  feet  above  the  valley.  Our  road  still  continuing  very  good,  after  journeying  for  a  short 
distance  through  this  gorge  our  trail  turned  to  the  right  over  a  very  rough  and  rugged  road,  till 
we  gained  the  summit  of  a  low  ridge,  which  we  followed  over  a  very  excellent  road  for  a  distance 
of  six  or  eight  miles,  having  had  an  excellent  and  full  view  of  the  Snake  River  valley.  Leaving 
the  river  at  this  point,  we  could  trace  its  many  windings  by  the  dark  line  of  escarpment  of  vol 
canic  rock  along  the  side  of  the  mountain  gorge.  The  river  issuing  from  this  gorge  at  a  distance 
of  six  miles,  makes  a  great  bend  to  the  north-northeast,  and  again  crossed  our  trail  at  a  distance 
of  thirteen  miles,  when  we  found  it  to  be  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  wide,  and  lined  with  the 
cotton-wood  tree. 

Our  road,  for  a  distance  of  five  miles  before  striking  this  creek  a  second  time,  led  through  an 
immense  prairie  covered  with  the  artemisia,  or  wild  sage,  growing  two  feet  high.  On  gaining 
the  ridge  before  referred  to,  we  came  in  view  of  the  "Three  Tetons,"  which  we  could  see  far 
in  the  east,  with  their  lofty  tops  covered  with  the  glistening  snow,  towering  high  in  the  clouds. 
On  each  side  of  these  Tetons  lay  a  high  ridge  of  snow-clad  mountains,  of  which  the  Tetons  seem 
to  occupy  the  middle  or  central  portion.  The  word  "Teton"  is  applied  to  high,  towering  and 
prominent  peaks  of  a  mountain  range  that  rises  above  the  remaining  portion  of  the  ranges.  To 
our  right  lay,  also,  the  "Three  Buttes,"  another  prominent  land-mark  in  the  Snake  River  valley. 
The  butte  farthest  to  the  west  and  north  is  the  largest  of  the  three,  and  at  present  is  covered  with 
snow,  while  the  other  two  are  of  an  equal  size,  and  no  snow  is  to  be  seen  on  them.  These  buttes 
form,  as  it  were,  high  and  prominent  islands  in  the  ocean  of  prairie  by  which  they  are  surrounded. 
The  word  "butte"  is  applied  "to  high  elevations  of  land,  too  high  to  be  called  hills  or  ridges, 


332  FROM   BITTER   ROOT   VALLEY   TO   FORT    HALL. 

and  not  high  enough  to  be  called  mountains,"  and  which  occur,  as  a  general  thing,  in  a  prairie 
country.     The  Tetons,  on  the  contrary,  occur  in  a  mountainous  country  in  travelling  to  the  south. 
The  Tetons  form  a  very  prominent  land-mark  in  the  Snake  River  valley ;  the  Teton  to  the  north 
being  the  highest  of  the  three,  the  one  to  the  south  being  of  an  equal  height.     The  mountains  in 
which  these  Tetons  occur  have  a  direction  of  north  and  south,  and  have  never  yet  been  ascended. 
They  are  represented  as  being  formed  of  rock  from  their  base  as  far  as  they  can  be  seen  towards 
the  summit;  and  the  tops  are  covered  at  all  seasons  with  snow  to  an  unknown  depth.     We  were 
told  by  the  guide  that  there  is  a  beautiful  cascade  in  the  mountains  where  the  Tetons  occur,  hav 
ing  a  fall  of  sixty  feet  over  a  vertical  wall  or  precipice.     Our  trail  crossing  the  Medicine  Lodge 
creek  led  through  an  immense  sage   prairie,  extending  about  twenty  miles  to  the  north,  to  the 
Snake  river  on  the  south,  and  to  the  Tetons  in  the  east.     Our  course  at  the  time  was  due  mag 
netic  east.     The  Medicine  Lodge  creek,  from  where  we  crossed  it,  bends  to  the  south,  where,  at 
a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  it  forms  a  lake  in  connexion  with  a  second  stream  coming  from  the 
Salmon  River  mountain,  a  few  miles  farther  to  the  south,  and  called  John  Day's  river.     This  lake 
is  called  the  Medicine  Lodge  lake.     The  soil  of  the  prairie  up  to,  and  after  crossing  the  Medicine 
Lodge  creek,  for  a  distance  of  eight  miles,  is  of  a  grayish  yellow-colored  clay,   mingled  with 
much  gravel,  affording,  however,    a  very  excellent   road.       The    character  of  the  soil  of  the 
remaining  portion  of  the  road  was   completely  changed.     There  it  formed  an   immense  sandy 
desert,  which  was  covered  with  nothing  save  the  artemisia,  which,  with  its  dark,  black  tops,  gave 
a  sombre  and  gloomy  aspect  to  the  whole  valley.     In  places  we  found  the  sage   desert  covered 
with  immense  beds  of  black  lava,  presenting  a  scoriated  surface,  and  at  times  occurring  in  broken 
fragments  along  the  road.     This  rock  we  found  to  be  very  compact ;  where  it  occurs  in  bedsit 
presents  a  uniform  surface,  but  in  fragments  a.  honey-comb  vessicular  surface,  the  whole  showing 
the  action  of  fire.     This  same  rock,  with  the  addition  of  trap-rock,  formed  the  geological  character 
of  our  journey  of  this  day.     Large  bands  of  antelope,  many  hundreds,  were  seen  to-day  feeding 
along  our  pathway;  but  when  an  attempt  was  made  to  approach  them  they  would  fly  across  the 
sage  desert  with  the  fleetness  of  arrows,  preventing  all  possibility  of  capture.     Many  sage  hens 
were  seen  during  the  day.     Those,  in  addition  to  a  few  ducks,  constituted  the  game  of  to-day. 
After  leaving  the  Medicine  Lodge  creek,  our  journey  for  sixteen  miles  still  continued  through  the 
sage  desert,  till  we  struck  a  second  creek,  coming  from  the  range  of  mountains  on  our  left,  and 
known  as  the  Kamas  Prairie  creek,  a  name  given  it  from  the  fact  of  the  root  of  the  kamas  being 
found  and  collected  in  great  abundance  near  its  headwaters  by  the  Snake  and  other  Indians. 
This  stream  is  wooded  with  willows  and  a  few  scattered  cotton-wood   trees.     I  took  several 
bearings  to  the  Buttes  from  the  north,  and  also  to  the  Tetons  from  the  west,  these  fixing  their 
positions  definitely.     Mr.  Adams  has  sketched  the  Tetons  as  we  saw  them  when  first  corning  in 
sight  of  them,  and  as  perceived  from   the  west.     This  day  has  been   mild,  though  the  sky  was 
overcast  during  the  whole  time.     The  thermometer  at  sunset  stood  at  36°,  about  7  p.  m.,  when 
snow  commenced  falling  heavily  ;  the  thermometer  at  9  p.  m.  being  at  32°.     I  take  the  following 
description  of  the  kamas  root,  and  the  manner  of  preparing  it,  from  the  Oregon   Missions  of 
Father  De  Smet :  "It  is  a  small  white,  vapid  onion  when  removed  from  the  earth,  but  becomes 
black  and  sweet  when  prepared  for  food.     The  women  arm  themselves  with  long  crooked  sticks 
to  go  in  search  of  the  camash.     After  having  procured  a  certain  quantity  of  these  roots,  by  dint 
of  long  and  painful  labor,  they  make  an  excavation  in  the  earth,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches 
deep,  and  of  proportional  diameter,  to  contain  the  roots.     They  cover  the  bottom  with  a  closely 
cemented   bottom,  which  they  make  red-hot.     After  having  carefully  withdrawn  all  the  coals, 
they  cover  the  stones  with  grass  or  wet  hay,  then  place  a  layer  of  camash,  another  of  wet  hay,  a 
third  of  bark,  overlaid  with  mould,  whereon  is  kept  a  glowing  fire  for  fifty,  sixty,  and  sometimes 
seventy  hours.     The  camash  thus  acquires  a  consistency  equal  to  that  of  the  jujube.     It  is  some 
times  made  into  loaves  of  various  dimensions.     It  is  excellent,  especially  when  boiled  with  meat. 
If  kept  dry,  it  can  be  preserved  a  long  time." 


FROM    BITTER   ROOT   VALLEY    TO    FORT    HALL.  333 

December  11,  1853. — Commences  cool,  cloudy,  and  snowing,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being 
34°.  We  found  the  ground  this  morning  covered  with  two  inches  of  snow,  and  the  weather 
giving  every  prospect  of  a  gloomy  day.  We  resumed  our  march  at  8  a.  m.,  which  for  a  mile 
lay  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Kamas  Prairie  creek,  which  we  crossed,  with  water  two  feet  deep. 
At  this  point  we  left  the  river,  which,  at  the  distance  of  six  miles,  we  again  struck  where  it  forms 
a  lake,  called  the  Kamas  Prairie  lake,  which  is  one  mile  wide  and  three  long.  Our  trail,  in  the 
mean  while,  led  through  the  sage  desert  of  the  Snake  river  valley. 

Sixteen  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night  we  came  in  view  of  a  large  lake,  which  slopped  our 
progress  to  the  Snake  river  in  the  direction  in  which  we  were  then  travelling.  Here  it  became 
necessary  to  make  a  detour  to  the  east  or  west.  The  road  to  the  right  is  shorter,  but  is  through 
a  country  rough  and  rugged.  That  to  the  left  is  better.  This  we  took,  keeping  along  the 
margin  of  the  lake;  over,  however,  a  very  rocky,  sage-covered  road,  where  no  trace  of  a  trail 
had  ever  been  made.  Where  the  high  and  rugged  sage-bushes  did  not  stop  our  progress,  our 
road  was  impeded  by  broken  fragments  and  large  beds  of  black  volcanic  rock,  terrible  for  our 
animals'  feet. 

Travelling  along  this  lake  for  a  distance  of  six  or  eight  miles,  we  left  it  to  our  right,  and  in  a 
short  time  fell  upon  the  main  stream  of  the  Snake  river,  or  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  which 
we  found  to  be  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  yards  wide,  and  very  deep,  with  high 
clay  banks,  bordered  with  a  slight  growth  of  willow.  The  guide  represented  that  heretofore  the 
bed  of  this  lake  has  been  a  beautiful  prairie  basin,  where  every  year,  up  to  the  last  season,  buf- 
f  ilo  have  been  hunted  and  killed,  and  at  times  in  such  large  numbers  that,  among  the  trappers 
and  hunters  of  the  mountains,  it  obtained  the  name  of  "The  Market" — certainly  a  very  appro 
priate  name,  for  whenever  they  were  out  of  provisions  they  always  made  a  visit  to^  this  noted 
spot,  and  were  ever  rewarded  for  their  labor.  But  during  the  last  summer  it  has  changed  its 
character  completely.  I  have  supposed  that  the  lake  has  been  formed  by  the  overflow  of  the 
Snake  river  waters,  and  am  confirmed  in  this  belief  by  the  fact  that  the  bed  the  lake  now 
occupies  is  represented  as  having  been  a  basin-shaped  prairie,  and  that  during  the  last  season 
the  Snake  river  overflowed  its  banks  to  a  greater  extent  than  has  been  known  for  many  years, 
from  the  melting  of  the  snows  that  fell  during  the  winter  of  1852.  Besides,  it  is  but  a  few  miles 
from  the  lake  to  the  river,  and  the  country  intervening  is  a  level  sage  prairie.  Again,  in  passing 
from  the  lake  to  the  river  we  met  with  much  driftwood,  consisting  in  some  places  of  large  trees, 
carried  to  a  great  distance  from  the  bank  of  the  stream,  which  shows  that  a  great  depth  of  water 
was  necessary  thus  to  transport  these  large  and  heavy  masses.  There  is  no  stream  known 
through  the  valley  that  could  thus  form  the  lake,  and,  from  the  circumstances,  I  could  only  sup 
pose  that  it  was  formed  by  the  overflow  of  the  Snake  river.  It  might  possibly  be  the  outlet  of 
some  subterranean  stream,  but  the  more  probable  cause  has  been  mentioned. 

The  day  has  been  so  cloudy  and  gloomy  that  we  were  unable  to  see  the  Tetons  or  the  Buttes 
of  the  valley.  When  within  five  or  six  miles  of  the  Snake  river,  we  descried  on  its  banks  a  single 
lodge;  when,  being  very  desirous  of  obtaining  fresh  meat,  and  supposing  this  to  be  the  lodge  of 
some  Indian  hunting  or  trapping,  Gabriel,  the  guide,  started  to  ascertain  who  its  inmates  were, 
and  to  secure,  if  possible,  enough  fresh  meat  to  carry  us  to  Fort  Hall.  The  Indian,  with  his  two 
boys,  were  off  a  short  distance  hunting,  leaving  his  squaw  alone  at  the  lodge.  Espying  whites 
travelling  towards  her  lodge,  she  seized  a  gun  and  ran  to  some  neighboring  rocks,  and  there 
couched  herself,  expecting  some  misfortune  about  to  befal  her,  and  resolved  to  fight  to  the  last. 
Finding  her  in  this  strong  place,  and  her  lodge  deserted,  Gabriel  spoke  to  her  in  Indian,  asking 
where  her  husband  was.  She  answered,  "Yonder  in  the  field,  hunting."  Seeing  from  their 
conduct  they  were  friends  and  not  enemies,  as  she  had  supposed,  she  emerged  from  her  hiding- 
place  and  discharged  her  gun — a  signal  for  her  husband  to  return — when,  in  a  few  minutes,  the 
maj  »r-domo  was  on  the  ground.  It  was  a  lodge  of  Banax,  on  their  way  to  the  mountains  for 
game,  and  had  stopped  here  to  fish  and  hunt  for  their  subsistence  by  the  way,  and  they  told  us 


334  FROM    BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY   TO    FORT    HALL. 

they  had  nothing  but  two  rabbits  which  they  had  just  killed.  Seeing  no  prospect  of  getting  fresh 
provisions  in  this  quarter,  we  journeyed  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Snake  river  for  a  distance  of 
a  mile,  and  encamped  in  excellent  grass  for  our  animals,  which  they  very  much  needed,  as  the 
grass  of  last  night  was  poor  and  scarce.  Our  fuel  for  this  night  consisted  of  the  different  wood 
brought  down  by  the  Snake  river  during  the  season  of  the  freshets,  and  which  along  the  banks 
is  scattered  and  piled  in  every  direction,  The  day  was  mild,  though  cloudy.  The  thermometer 
at  sunset  was  38°,  and  at  9  p.  m.  32°. 

December  12,  1853. — Commences  clear  and  pleasant,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  34°. 
The  Tetons  and  the  high  range  of  Snlmon  mountains  in  the  east,  covered  with  their  mantles  of 
snow,  shone  silvery  bright  this  morning,  under  the  genial  rays  of  the  sun.  All  of  our  animals 
were  found  this  morning  save  one;  when,  a  short  time  after  missing  him,  we  espied  at  a  distance 
our  Banax  friend  leading  him  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  it  having  strayed  to  his  band  of  horses 
during  the  night.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  son,  who  it  seemed  had  turned  out  at  an  early 
hour  this  morning  and  caught  a  number  of  fine  trout,  which  he  brought  to  our  camp  and  pre 
sented  to  us,  in  return  for  which  we  gave  him  a  supply  of  tobacco.  Our  journey  of  to-day  lay 
along  the  right  bank  of  the  Snake  river,  still  continuing  through  the  immense  sage  desert  already 
referred  to.  We  found  the  river  to  make  numerous  and  large  bends,  and  instead  of  following 
the  course  of  the  river  along  its  many  windings,  our  trail  lay  through  the  prairie,  leaving  the 
river  to  our  left.  We  struck  it,  however1,  several  times  during  the  day,  and  found  it  to  be  about 
two  hundred  yards  wide,  and  in  its  course  having  exceedingly  many  rapids  and  fulls.  Its  banks 
we  found  untimbered  save  by  the  willow;  and  we  continued  on  till  we  reached  a  camp,  where 
we  found  the  cotton-wood  and  cedar  in  great  abundance.  The  river,  during  the  whole  distance 
travelled  to-day,  winds  through  the  sage  prairie,  with  high  clay  banks  on  each  side,  with  occa 
sionally  a  low  gravelly  slope.  Along  the  river  we  found  much  drift-wood,  in  some  places  piled 
to  the  height  of  many  feet.  Many  islands  were  to  be  seen  in  the  river,  some  of  which  were 
formed  of  solid  rock,  and  rose  to  a  considerable  height  above  the  water.  This  rock,  many  frag 
ments  of  which  will  be  seen  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  is  a  black,  honey-combed,  volcanic 
rock,  the  same  that  has  already  been  referred  to  as  occurring  in  very  many  places  through  the 
Snake  River  valley,  and  which  is  first  noticed  after  crossing  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Missouri 
and  Snake  river  waters. 

About  twelve  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night  we  espied  a  smoke,  some  distance  to  our  left 
on  the  river  bank;  when  approaching  it,  we  found,  among  the  artemisia  of  the  prairie,  three  or 
lour  families  of  the  Root-Digger  Indians,  who  were  living  here  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  They 
were  astonished  to  see  us,  the  children  running  and  scampering  through  the  bushes  as  if  their 
lives  were  in  danger.  These  Indians  are  probably  the  most  miserable  of  all  the  Indian  tribes, 
either  east  or  west  of  the  mountains.  They  had  with  them  no  lodges  and  no  food,  save  a  large 
pile  of  white-colored  roots  which  they  had  just  dug  from  the  side  of  the  river,  and  which  they 
seem  to  feast  on  with  as  much  contentedness  as  if  they  were  surrounded  by  all  the  luxuries  of 
life.  The  men  were  absent  fishing.  Fish  and  roots  are  their  only  subsistence ;  and  still  these 
people  are  fat  and  in  good  condition,  and,  without  knowing  it,  we  would  have  supposed  their  fare 
to  consist  of  aught  else  than  fish  and  roots.  They  all  seemed  to  be  living  in  small  corrals,  as 
it  were,  formed  of  the  artemisia,  in  which  they  had  a  few  glowing  embers.  A  few  horses  and  a 
mule  stood  near  by,  who  actually  seemed  to  occupy,  at  least  in  our  estimation,  a  much  higher 
position  in  the  social  scale  than  these  miserable,  worthless  creatures.  Apparently,  their  sole 
object  in  living,  and  pursuit  in  life,  seems  to  be  to  gain  a  subsistence  wherewith  to  keep  body  and 
soul  together.  Words,  in  fact,  are  not  adequate  to  express  the  deep  misery,  degradation,  and 
wretchedness  of  these  moral  brutes  of  the  mountains.  They  approach  more  to  the  order  of  the 
brute  creation  than  probably  any  portion  of  the  human  race  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  We  had 
visited  their  abodes  with  the  expectation  of  procuring  fresh  meat ;  but  disgust  getting  the  better 
of  us,  as  soon  as  we  were  made  acquainted  with  our  new  neighbors  we  put  spurs  to  our  horses 


FROM    FORT    HALL    TO    HEAD    OP   BELL    GATE   RIVER.  335 

and  soon  left  the  presence  of  the  Digger  tribe,  thinking  that  for  once  we  had  entered  the  wrong 
market  for  provisions.  We  had  to-day  a  fine  view  of  the  Buttes  and  Tetons,  the  latter  being 
covered  with  snow.  Their  glistening  tops  seemed  like  silver  steeples  in  the  distance.  We  had  a 
fine  view  of  the  country  bordering  the  Snake  river  to  the  south.  For  a  distance  of  six  or 
eight  miles  it  forms  still  the  sage  prairie,  as  to  the  north,  when  the  ground,  rising  by  a  gradual 
ascent  at  the  distance  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  forms  mountain  ranges  with  high  snow-capped 
peaks.  Travelling  a  distance  of  twenty-seven  miles  by  a  very  excellent  road,  we  encamped  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Snake  river,  finding  here  good  grass  for  our  animals,  and  an  abundance  of 
drift-wood.  The  day  has  been  remarkably  pleasant;  the  temperature  at  noon  being  46°,  at  sun 
set  34°,  and  at  9  p.  m.  24°. 

December  13,  1853. — Commences  cloudy,  and  snowing,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  30°. 
We  resumed  our  march  at  8  a.  m.,  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Snake  river,  over  a  very  excellent 
road.  As  during  yesterday,  instead  of  following  the  many  bends  and  windings  of  the  river,  we 
took  a  course  leading  from  one  bend  to  the  other,  thus  shortening  our  journey  by  many  miles. 
Having  travelled  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles,  we  found  a  crossing  of  the  river  where  were  many 
islands:  here  it  was  necessary  to  keep  up  the  stream  in  order  to  follow  the  ford,  the  water  to 
our  front  and  right  being  exceedingly  deep.  In  crossing,  however,  some  of  the  animals,  instead 
of  following  the  guide,  went  to  the  right,  and  in  a  few  minutes  were  swimming  and  floating  down 
the  stream.  Directions  had  been  given  before  the  commencement  of  the  crossing,  that  all  the 
animals  bearing  packs  should  be  led;  but,  through  neglect,  only  the  animals  carrying  the  bedding 
were  led  in,  and  the  rest  swam  the  river,  the  animal  bearing  our  provisions  being  among  the 
number,  our  provisions  thus  became  thoroughly  soaked;  and,  to  cap  the  climax  to  the  already 
great  misfortune,  the  animals  bearing  the  provisions,  on  reaching  the  opposite  bank,  fell  into  a 
quicksand,  and  thus  completed  the  ruining  of  them.  It  was  fortunate  lor  us  that  we  were  so 
near  a  depot,  where  we  could  replenish  our  stores.  From  the  crossing  of  the  Snake  river  we 
had  an  excellent  road  for  twelve  miles  to  Cantonment  Loring,  five  miles  above  Fort  Hall,  where 
we  arrived  about  sunset.  The  day  has  been  exceedingly  disagreeable,  raining  and  occasionally 
snowing  through  the  whole  day,  which  made  the  road  slippery  and  hard  to  travel.  Our  road  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Snake  river  lay  through  the  sage  desert,  where  we  found  much  of  the 
cactus,  or  prickly  pear.  Five  miles  from  Cantonment  Loring  we  entered  a  beautiful  prairie 
plain,  where  the  grass  is  very  excellent,  and,  with  its  numerous  streams  and  brooks  running 
through  it,  renders  it  an  excellent  place  for  a  post  of  any  kind.  Arriving  at  Cantonment  Loring, 
we  were  most  kindly  received  by  Captain  Grant,  formerly  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at  Fort 
Hall,  who,  inviting  us  into  his  house,  spread  before  us  all  the  comforts  and  many  of  the  luxuries 
of  life,  and  gave  us  a  comfortable  bed  under  his  hospitable  roof — all  of  which  none  more  than 
ourselves  could  appreciate ;  and  we  thus  passed  the  night  once  more  near  the  abodes  of  civiliza 
tion.  Here  Captain  Grant  is  comfortably  situated,  surrounded  by  a  happy  family,  and,  with  all 
the  comforts  and  many  of  the  luxuries  of  life,  lives  as  happily  and  contentedly  as  he  so  well 
deserves. 

December  19,  1853. — Commences  clear,  but  cool;  thermometer  at  sunrise  14°.  After  resting 
and  recruiting  our  animals  at  Cantonment  Loring  five  days,  we  concluded  to  return  to  the  Bitter 
Root  valley,  intending  to  pursue  a  different  route  to  that  previously  travelled.  After  striking  the 
main  stream  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  our  route  lay  along  the  east  base  of  the  mount 
ains,  following  down  the  main  stream  of  the  Hell  Gate  river.  Cantonment  Loring,  so  called  in 
honor  of  Colonel  Loring  of  the  rifle  regiment,  and  occupied  in  1849  and  1850  by  two  companies 
of  that  regiment,  is  located  in  a  beautiful  prairie  section  of  the  Snake  River  valley,  and  about  five 
miles  above  Fort  Hall.  The  land  here  is  composed  principally  of  clay,  of  grayish-blue  color, 
mingled  with  but  little  sand.  It  is,  however,  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  wheat  and  potatoes; 
though  I  have  understood  that,  from  the  early  frosts,  it  is  badly  adapted  to  the  growth  of  vege 
tables.  The  grass  here  is  very  rich  and  luxuriant,  and,  with  its  many  small  ponds,  lakes,  and 


336  FROM   FORT   HALL   TO   HEAD  OF   HELL   GATE   RIVER. 

streamlets,  is  well  calculated  for  the  purposes  of  grazing.  We  heard,  while  at  this  place,  of  the 
lamentable  fate  of  Captain  Gunnison  and  his  party,  who,  being  in  command  of  a  Pacific  Railroad 
Exploration,  was  massacred  by  the  Utah  Indians  within  two  hundred  miles  of  Salt  Lake  City. 
It  caused  a  feeling  of  sadness  and  sympathy  in  our  small  party.  We  sincerely  regretted  that  we 
could  not  have  been  within  reaching  distance,  to  have  given  our  assistance  and  aid  to  this  band 
of  explorers  through  the  mountains,  whose  pathway  through  the  country  of  a  hostile  tribe  of 
Indians  was  accompanied  with  peril,  danger,  and  difficulty.  This  we  deemed  a  fit  and  proper 
subject  for  our  government  to  take  notice  of,  and  to  visit  upon  these  Indians  retaliation,  with 
marked  severity.  At  12  m.  we  resumed  our  march  up  the  Snake  River  valley,  accompanied 
by  Captain  Grant,  who,  in  addition  to  his  kindness  in  affording  us  the  hospitality  and  comfort  of 
his  home,  has  travelled  with  us  to  our  night's  carnp.  Journeying  up  the  Snake  River  valley  six 
miles,  we  encamped  on  its  left  bank ;  finding  here  good  grass,  wood,  arid  water. 

The  night  of  this  day  was  mild  and  slightly  cloudy;  the  thermometer  at  9  p.  m.  being  28°. 
December  20,   1853. — Commences  clear  and  cool;  thermometer  at  sunrise  22°.     We  had  a 
slight  fall  of  snow  during  the  night;  it  being  quite  cold,  with  wind  from  west-southwest.     Jour 
neying  a  distance  of  six  miles  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Snake  river,  we  reached   the  crossing ; 
finding  the  river  partly  frozen  over,  and  the  rapid  current  of  the  channel  carrying  down  much 
floating  ice,  which  was  from  two  to  three  inches  thick.     Journeying  along  the  right  bank  of  the 
Snake  river  through  the  sage  desert,  though  by  a  very  good  trail  for  the  distance  of  fifteen  miles, 
we  encamped,  it  being  our  camp  of  the  12th ;  about  sunset  we  were  joined  by  two  Snake  Indians, 
who  were  on  their  way  up  the  Snake  River  valley  to  join  their  main  camp. 
At  sunset  the  thermometer  stood  at  21°  ;  at  9  p.  m.  24°. 

December  21,  1853. — Commences  cold  and  snowing;  the  snow  at  sunrise  being  an  inch  deep, 
with  the  thermometer  at  22°.  We  were  delayed  till  10  a.  m.  this  morning,  searching  for  our 
animals  that  had  strayed  some  miles  from  camp,  when  we  resumed  our  march  through  the  sage 
desert  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Snake  river.  Travelling  a  distance  of  twenty-six  miles,  we 
encamped  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Snake  river,  finding  good  grass,  wood,  and  water;  the  river 
being  frozen  over  from  bank  to  bank  sufficiently  hard  to  bear  our  animals. 

December  22,  1S53. — Commences  cold  and  misty;  thermometer  at  sunrise  G°  below  zero;  it  was 
very  cold  during  the  night.  I  had  intended  to  remain  in  camp  to-day,  to  send  back  to  our  camp 
of  the  night  previous  for  an  instrument  left  there;  but  finding  the  weather  now  very  cold,  and 
in  front  of  us  a  range  of  snow-covered  mountains  to  cross,  every  day  became  precious,  and  I  con 
cluded  to  suffer  the  loss  rather  than  risk  being  overtaken  by  severe  cold  or  deep  snow  in  the 
mountains.  Our  course  continued  across  the  sage  desert,  passing  during  the  morning  the  Market 
lake,  which  was  now  frozen  over.  Our  road,  instead  of  following  the  course  travelled  on  the 
10th,  led  farther  to  the  east,  thus  shortening  our  route  by  several  miles.  About  noon  it  cleared 
off,  and  became  an  exceedingly  beautiful  day.  Marching  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  we 
encamped  on  the  Kamas  Prairie  creek  of  the  10th.  This  creek  was  now  frozen  over,  which  was 
lined  with  willow  and  quaking  asp.  At  sunset  the  thermometer  was  at  10°,  at  9  p.  m.  20°, 
below  zero. 

December  23,  1853. — Commences  clear,  but  cold,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  6°  below 
zero.  We  resumed  our  march  at  9  a.  m.,  our  course  tending  for  a  distance  of  five  miles  along 
the  Kamas  Prairie  creek,  which  at  ihis  point  had  a  course  of  north  40°  east.  Here  our  course 
lay  through  the  sage  desert,  crossing  at  a  distance  of  ten  miles  a  small  stream  called  the  "  High 
Bank  creek,"  a  name  given  it  from  the  fact  that  near  its  head  branch,  or  source,  it  flows  through 
high  vertical  walls  of  black  volcanic  rock — in  many  places  columns.  This  creek,  like  the  Kamas 
Prairie  creek,  we  found  frozen  over  sufficiently  hard  to  bear  our  animals.  Many  places  through 
the  sage  desert  to-day  we  found  covered  with  large  areas  of  honey-combed  volcanic  rock,  the 
same  as  has  been  already  referred  to  as  occurring  abundantly  in  the  Snake  River  valley.  We 
found  the  valley  perfectly  free  from  snow  till  arriving  near  the  base  of  the  mountains,  where  we 


FROM   FORT    HALL    TO    HEAD    OF    HELL    GATE   RIVER.  337 

found  it  three  inches  deep.  Our  course  for  a  distance  of  five  miles  lay  along  the  base  of  the 
mountains,  when  we  entered  a  gorge  or  cafion  of  these  mountains,  through  which  flows  the  High 
Bank  creek.  Here  we  encamped,  having  travelled  thirty-five  miles — not  finding  a  camping 
ground  till  we  had  travelled  this  distance ;  and  even  here  we  had  a  miserable  camp,  wood  and 
grass  being  poor  and  scarce.  Our  bed  lay  on  the  snow  ;  the  thermometer  at  sunset  being  20°, 
and  at  9  p.  m.  10°.  The  day  has  been  warm  and  pleasant.  No  game  seen  to-day. 

December  24,  1853. — Commences  cold  and  snowing,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  3°  above 
zero,  and  continues  cold  throughout  the  whole  day  ;  at  noon  the  thermometer  being  22°  and 
still  snowing.  Our  course  to-day  lay  up  the  cafion  of  the  High  Bank  creek,  which  we  found  to 
be  covered  with  the  artemisia,  or  wild  sage,  growing  two  feet  high  ;  the  mountains  on  each  side 
being  perfectly  destitute  of  timber,  and  covered  with  snow,  the  cafion  being  covered  with  snow 
six  inches  deep.  The  High  Bank  creek  we  found  to-day  to  be  well-timbered  with  the  cedar, 
the  spruce-pine,  and  the  quaking  aspen,  the  latter  predominating.  No  game  or  living  thing  was 
seen  to-day  to  break  the  stillness  and  dreariness  of  our  road.  Having  travelled  ten  miles,  we 
encamped  at  the  head  of  the  High  Bank  creek,  finding  good  grass  and  water,  wood  being  at  some 
distance,  which  we  packed  to  the  camp.  This  cafion  is  travelled  by  wagons  from  Fort  Hall, 
having  been  first  travelled  by  Father  De  Smet  in  1840. 

December  25,  1853. — Commences  cold  and  gloomy,  the  thermometer  at  7  a.  m.  being  14°  below 
zero.  Last  night  was  exceedingly  cold,  with  a  strong  wind  from  south-southwest,  and  snowing 
during  the  whole  night.  Thus  was  Christmas  ushered  in  for  us — cold,  gloomy,  and  exceedingly 
disagreeable.  After  many  delays  in  camp  in  finding  animals,  &c.,  we  resumed  our  march  at  10 
a.  m.,  ascending  a  low  ridge  dividing  the  main  stream  of  the  High  Bank  creek  from  a  small 
tributary,  which  ridge  we  followed  for  three  miles,  over  a  very  excellent  road,  though  the  ground 
was  covered  with  snow  eight  inches  deep.  The  mountains  on  each  side  continue  very  high,  and 
all  covered  with  snow  from  base  to  summit,  their  chief  characteristic  being  the  entire  absence  of 
timber.  At  a  distance  of  nine  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night,  we  fell  upon  the  waters  of  the 
Missouri  river,  crossing  a  low  ridge  of  very  easy  ascent  and  descent — so  gradual,  that  you  leave 
the  Columbia  and  strike  the  Missouri  waters  without  noticing  it,  were  it  not  for  the  direction 
taken  by  the  streams.  We  were  all  rejoiced  to  find  ourselves  once  more  on  the  waters  of  the  Mis 
souri.  On  the  ridge  we  found  the  snow  twelve  inches  deep,  though  it  had  drifted  in  many  places 
much  deeper.  The  snow  was  still  soft,  and  not  frozen,  as  we  expected  to  find  it.  The  day  was 
exceedingly  cold;  the  sun  shone  quite  bright  at  noon,  and  though  the  thermometer  was  in  the 
sun,  it  stood  as  low  as  8°,  with  a  strong,  cold  wind  blowing  from  the  south-southwest.  After 
journeying  eleven  miles  we  found  the  cold  so  intense,  that  we  were  compelled  to  halt  and  build 
a  fire  by  the  wayside  to  keep  warm.  Travelling  a  distance  of  sixteen  and  a  half  miles,  we 
encamped  on  a  small  mountain  stream,  a  tributary  to  the  southeast  branch  of  the  Jefferson  fork 
of  the  Missouri;  here  we  found  good  grass  for  our  animals,  the  snow  being  only  six  inches,  leav 
ing  the  top  of  the  grass  uncovered,  which,  however,  they  very  soon  totally  exposed  with  their 
hoofs.  Here  we  found  the  ice  twenty  inches  deep.  Our  fuel  at  night  was  poor  and  scarce,  con 
sisting  solely  of  willows.  The  thermometer  at  sunset  was  8°  above  zero  ;  at  8  p.  m.,  14°  below 
zero.  This  was  by  far  our  most  disagreeable  day,  and  all  with  one  accord  were  willing  to  re 
member  the  Christmas  of  1853  in  the  mountains. 

December  26,  1853. — Commences  cold  and  windy,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  11°.  The 
wind,  which  had  been  blowing  cold  and  strong  from  the  south-southwest  during  the  night,  con 
tinued  with  unabated  force  this  morning,  and  so  continued  throughout  the  day,  drifting  the  snow, 
and  rendering  travelling  very  disagreeable.  Our  road  to-day  continued  to  be  very  exceUent,  with 
much  less  snow  than  we  had  met  with  during  the  last  three  days.  It  seems  that  the  farther  we 
travel  along  the  waters  of  the  Missouri,  the  much  less  quantity  of  snow  do  we  find.  It  is  true, 
that  on  leaving  Fort  Hall  we  did  not  meet  with  snow  through  the  whole  of  the  Snake  River  valley 
till  we  reached  the  base  of  the  mountains ;  but  through  this  whole  ridge  or  range  we  found  snow, 
43  f 


338  FROM    FORT    HALL    TO    HEAD   OF    HELL    GATE   RIVER. 

varying  in  depth  from  six  inches  to  two  feet.  This  range  is  reported,  as  we  were  told  by  the 
guide,  as  being  a  range  where  snow  falls  early,  and  at  times  exceedingly  deep.  He  says  that 
last  year,  in  the  month  of  March,  he  crossed  it,  and  found  the  snow  three  feet  deep ;  many  par 
ties,  during  the  same  winter,  attempted  to  cross  it,  and  were  beaten  back  by  the  great  depth  of 
snow  met  with,  and  the  want  of  water  and  grass  for  animals.  We  crossed  to-day  several  mount 
ain  streams,  all  of  which  were  frozen  over;  which,  when  open,  contributed  their  supply  of  water 
to  the  southeast  branch  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri.  Taking  their  rise  in  the  mountains, 
they  flow  through  beautiful  patches  of  prairie,  many  of  which  we  to-day  crossed,  where  we  found 
the  grass  exceedingly  rich  and  luxuriant,  and  the  snow  only  two  inches  deep,  though  the  mount 
ains  on  each  side  of  us  were  still  covered  with  snow,  and  perfectly  destitute  of  timber,  save  a 
range  towards  the  north,  which,  as  seen  from  a  distance,  might  be  termed  the  "  Blue  Ridge," 
being  covered  with  the  pine,  and  presented  to-day  an  exceedingly  beautiful  blue  appearance. 
The  only  game  seen  to-day  \vere  two  deer,  which  were  frightened  up  along  the  road,  but  quickly 
took  to  the  mountains,  giving  us  no  opportunity  for  an  approach.  It  continued  cold  throughout 
the  day,  the  thermometer  at  noon  being  22°  in  the  sun.  Travelling  a  distance  of  seventeen 
miles,  we  encamped  on  a  small  mountain  stream,  where  we  found  excellent  grass  for  our  ani 
mals  ;  they  were  thus  amply  repaid  for  their  scanty  fare  of  the  last  few  days.  Our  fuel  consisted 
of  small  willow  bushes.  We  had  intended  to  cross  to-day  a  divide  separating  two  of  the  tribu 
taries  of  the  southeast  branch  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri  from  each  other;  but  with  the 
cold,  and  necessary  stoppages  along  the  road,  we  were  unable  to  travel  so  far,  but  camped  west 
of  the  divide.  The  greater  portion  of  our  road  to-day  lay  through  sage  plains,  where  we  found 
the  sage  in  some  places  six  and  eight  feet  high,  with  trunks  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  in  diam 
eter.  We  had,  nevertheless,  a  very  excellent  road  the  whole  distance,  good  for  either  pack- 
animals  or  wagons ;  the  chief  characteristic,  however,  being  the  great  scarcity  of  timber.  Grass 
we  found  very  excellent — the  best  we  have  met  with  since  leaving  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  and 
which  our  animals  duly  appreciated.  Game  still  continues  to  be  very  scarce.  The  night  was 
cold,  with  a  strong  wind  from  the  south,  and  disagreeable  in  camp,  drifting  much  snow  from 
the  mountains,  at  the  base  of  which  we  were  encamped.  The  thermometer  at  sunrise  was  13°  ; 
at  9  p.  m.  12°. 

December  27,  1853. — Commences  clear  and  mild,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  being  at  8°  above 
zero.  The  wind,  which  blew  strong  from  the  south  during  the  night,  had  lulled  this  morning,  and 
with  a  clear,  bright  sky  caused  everything  to  look  gay  and  cheerful.  The  mountains  on  each 
side  of  us  shone  silvery  bright  under  the  warm  rays  of  the  sun.  We  resumed  our  march  at  8  a. 
m.,  ascending  several  low  prairie  ridges  for  a  distance  of  five  miles,  when  we  arrived  at  the 
foot  of  the  divide  referred  to  yesterday.  We  found  these  ridges  to  be  well  covered  with  grass ; 
snow  about  two  inches  deep;  though  the  mountains  on  each  side  are  all  snow-clad  from  base  to 
summit.  The  mountains  to  our  left  to-day  we  found  to  be  composed  principally  of  limestone, 
while  on  the  prairie  ridge  are  to  be  seen  large  masses  and  broken  fragments  of  honey-combed 
black,  volcanic  rock.  The  valleys  between  these  low  ridges  were  covered  with  the  artemisia 
or  wild  sage,  growing  from  eighteen  inches  to  three  feet  high.  Numerous  mountain  rivulets 
were  crossed  running  through  these  valleys,  which  were  lined  on  each  side  by  willow  bushes, 
growing  in  some  places  twelve  feet  high.  Arriving  at  the  foot  of  the  divide,  we  ascended  it  by 
a  very  gradual  acclivity,  keeping  along  the  slope  diagonally  till  reaching  its  summit,  from  which 
we  had  a  beautiful  and  extended  view  of  the  mountains  on  all  sides.  The  sun  at  this  time 
shone  clear  and  bright,  giving  us  a  wide  and  extended  view  far  in  the  distance.  On  every  side 
lay  snow-clad  mountains — those  to  the  east  being  timbered,  while  those  in  every  other  direction 
were  perfectly  destitute  of  everything  save  a  coating  of  snow.  Below  us,  and  to  the  east,  were 
seen  small  streams,  taking  their  rise  in  the  mountains,  and  running  through  beautiful  prairie 
valleys  perfectly  free  from  snow.  We  could  see  from  this  point  of  view  the  gap  of  the  mount 
ains  through  which  flows  the  Missouri — the  great  landmark  of  the  mountains.  To  the  south  of 


FROM   FORT    HALL    TO    HEAD   OF   HELL    GATE   RIVER.  339 

east  lay  a  high  ridge  of  timbered  mountains,  from  which  flow  the  waters  of  the  Stinking,  and  also 
the  waters  of  the  Snake  river ;  while  to  the  north  lay  other  ridges  and  ranges,  from  which  flow 
the  waters  of  the  Missouri.  From  the  top  of  this  mountain  we  had  truly  a  grand  view — high, 
snow-clad  mountains  on  every  side  of  us.  To  the  south  lay  prairies  and  valleys  covered  with 
snow,  through  which  we  have  been  travelling  for  several  days ;  while  to  the  east  lay  beautiful 
prairie  meadows,  free  from  snow,  through  which  meandered  the  numerous  mountain  streams,  all 
pouring  their  tribute  to  the  great  river  Missouri.  Here,  then,  we  were  to  leave  the  vicinity  of 
snow  behind  us,  and  we  truly  congratulated  ourselves  at  the  change — a  time  we  had  been  looking 
forward  to  with  much  interest.  Descending  this  ridge  or  divide  by  a  very  excellent  road,  we 
fell  upon  the  headwaters  of  a  second  tributary  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  called  by 
the  Indians  "  Hooked  Man  creek."  Wagons  cross  the  divide  already  referred  to,  but,  in  order 
to  pass  without  difficulty,  must  go  more  to  the  south,  where  the  mountains  are  much  less  steep, 
giving  a  very  excellent  road.  Following  down  the  valley  of  the  Hooked  Man  creek  for  ten 
miles,  we  encamped  on  its  left  bank,  finding  here  good  grass,  water,  and  wood,  the  latter  being 
the  quaking  asp.  Game  was  very  abundant,  large  bands  of  deer  and  antelope  crossing  our  trail 
during  the  whole  day ;  many  white  hare  were  also  seen  through  the  valley  of  the  Hooked  Man 
creek.  This  vicinity  is  a  noted  place  among  the  Indians  for  game.  In  the  mountains  on  each 
side  of  the  valley  are  to  be  found  in  abundance  bears,  moose,  and  elk ;  while,  in  the  valley  below, 
deer  and  antelope  are  never  absent.  It  is  also  noted  as  being  a  place  where  the  Blackfeet  ren 
dezvous,  during  the  spring  and  summer  seasons,  and  waylay  the  traveller  on  his  way  to  the  hunt 
or  emigrant  road.  This  valley  is  about  two  miles  wide,  lined  on  each  side  by  a  high  range  of 
timbered  mountains,  and  covered  with  a  rich  and  beautiful  growth  of  bunch -grass.  The  day 
has  been  exceedingly  mild  and  pleasant,  the  thermometer  at  noon  being  53°.  Unfortunately, 
to-day  my  horse  fell,  breaking  the  only  thermometer  left,  which  will  account  for  the  temperature 
of  each  day  not  being  given  hereafter.  The  night  was  very  mild  and  pleasant ;  we  scarcely  felt 
the  need  of  a  fire.  The  ground  was  perfectly  free  from  snow;  the  Hooked  Man  creek  was  free 
from  ice;  and  everything  indicated  that  we  had  entered  a  milder  and  warmer  region.  This 
stream  is  timbered  by  willow  bushes,  save  at  one  or  two  places  small  clumps  of  the  quaking 
asp  were  to  be  seen. 

December  28,  1853. — Commences  cloudy,  with  a  strong  wind  from  the  southwest.  Being  out 
of  meat,  Gabriel,  the  guide,  left  the  camp  early  this  morning  in  search  of  game,  having  pointed 
out  first  the  direction  to  be  followed,  which  was  down  the  valley  of  the  Hooked  Man  creek, 
which  for  three  miles  had  a  width  of  from  three  to  five  miles,  when  it  opened  into  a  beautiful 
prairie  plain  about  fifteen  miles  wide,  extending  to  the  main  stream  of  the  Jefferson  river,  and 
bounded  on  every  side  by  high  mountains ;  the  base  of  the  range,  to  the  north,  being  washed  by 
the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  which  could  be  traced  for  many  miles  by  the  dark  line  of 
cotton-wood  that  bordered  its  bank.  This  range  of  mountains  separates  the  Big  Hole  prairie 
from  the  Jefferson  river.  The  Hooked  Man  creek  near  its  mouth  is  lined  with  the  cotton-wood. 
The  willow,  however,  is  the  principal  wood  on  its  banks.  Its  valley  throughout  is  well  grassed, 
and  at  present,  being  perfectly  free  from  snow,  looks  not  unlike  a  large  field  of  yellow  grain. 
This  valley  bore  north  70°  west  magnetic.  To  our  left  to-day  was  seen  the  high  rocky  range  of 
bluffs  or  cliffs  known  as  the  "Rattle  Snake  cliffs,"  a  name  given  them  by  Messrs.  Lewis  and 
Clark.  To  our  front  and  right  lay  also  a  prominent  point  of  a  prairie  bluff  called  "Beaver 
Head,"  a  name  given  it  from  the  supposed  resemblance  to  the  head  of  that  animal.  We  looked 
intently,  and  examined  with  care,  to  see  if  we  could  discover  the  resemblance,  but  in  our  opinion 
it  resembled  aught  else  than  the  beaver's  head.  Game  to-day  was  exceedingly  abundant,  large 
bands  of  antelope  and  deer  being  seen  in  the  valley — the  latter  being  the  white  and  black-tailed. 
Travelling  a  distance  of  sixteen  and  a  half  miles,  we  reached  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri, 
which  we  found  frozen  along  the  margin  on  each  side  with  ice  three  inches  thick,  while  its 
channel  was  open,  with  a  rapid  current.  Its  bed  we  found  rocky  and  pebbly ;  its  bank,  as  far 


340  FROM   FORT    HALL   TO   HEAD   OF   HELL   GATE   RIVER. 

as  could  be  seen,  being  lined  with  the  cotton-wood,  growing  to  the  height  of  sixty  feet.  Its 
width  was  fifty  yards,  giving  us  a  ford  with  water  two  feet  deep.  Our  camp  at  night  was  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  stream,  about  200  yards  below  the  mouth  of  the  Hooked  Man  creek,  where  we 
found  good  wood  and  grass.  Our  camp  was  where  a  large  band  of  Indians  had  encamped  two 
days  previous,  judging  from  the  camp-fires,  &c.  These  Indians  we  supposed  to  be  the  Banax, 
returning  from  the  buffalo  hunt,  and,  from  the  indication  left  at  the  camp,  that  they  had  an 
abundance  of  game.  Our  camp  lay  ten  miles  northeast  of  the  Rattle  Snake  cliffs,  and  twenty 
miles  southwest  of  the  Beaver  Head — the  two  prominent  and  well-known  landmarks  of  the 
valley  of  the  Jefferson  river.  The  night  was  exceedingly  windy  and  quite  cold.  It  commenced 
raining  at  8  p.  m.,  but  the  rain  soon  changed  into  snow,  with  the  wind  blowing  at  the  time  with 
great  force  and  severity  from  the  southwest. 

December  29,  1853. — Commences  clear  and  pleasant.  We  resumed  our  march  at  8  a.  m., 
which  lay  north  30°  west  across  the  large  and  beautiful  prairie  valley  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the 
Missouri,  which  we  left  to  the  right ;  it  then  runs  north  25°  east  magnetic,  being  traced  for 
many  miles  by  the  long  line  of  cotton- wood  trees  along  its  banks.  The  valley  referred  to  on  the 
south  is  about  six  or  seven  miles  wide  and  perfectly  level,  covered  with  an  excellent  growth  of 
bunch-grass.  There,  however,  as  throughout  the  valley,  the  cactus  or  prickly  pear  occurs  in 
the  greatest  abundance.  Our  trail  at  times  led  through  patches  of  sage,  though  not  at  all  incon 
veniencing  our  travelling,  for,  although  we  had  no  trail,  we  had  a  level  and  beautiful  prairie. 
Alter  travelling  across  the  valley  tor  a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  we  fell  upon  a  small  creek  coming 
from  the  mountains  to  our  left,  and  bordered  with  the  willow.  This  creek,  as  told  by  our  guide, 
is  known  as  Bonneville  creek.  It  was  here  where  a  party  of  Blackfeet,  in  1835,  seized  upon 
the  goods  belonging  to  a  portion  of  the  expedition  under  Captain  (now  Colonel)  Bonneville,  of 
the  army,  then  trapping  in  the  mountains,  and  strewed  over  the  prairie  what  they  did  not  carry 
off.  It  is  known  now  among  the  Flathead  and  Nez  Perces  Indians  as  the  spot  where  Col.  Bon- 
neville's  expedition  was  robbed.  Travelling  to  the  north  for  a  distance  of  five  miles,  we  struck 
a  second  creek,  running  nearly  parallel  to  Bonneville's  creek,  and  both  emptying  into  the  Wisdom 
river;  our  road  during  the  whole  distance  being  exceedingly  level  and  beautiful.  This  second 
creek  mentioned  is  lined  with  the  willow,  cotton-wood,  and  alder.  On  its  right  bank  occurs  a 
large  bed  of  greenish-colored  slate,  which  is  traceable  to  the  mountains  to  the  north,  which  by  its 
designation  gave  character  to  the  soil.  Leaving  the  second  creek  at  a  distance  of  two  miles,  we 
reached  the  Wisdom  river,  the  most  northern  tributary  to  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  and  is 
known  among  the  Indians  and  half-breeds  as  the  Big  Hole  fork  of  the  Jefferson  river.  The  head 
waters  of  this  stream  we  fell  upon  after  crossing  the  Big  Hole  mountain,  referred  to  when  leaving 
the  Bitter  Root  valley,  and  which  we  travelled  down  for  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles.  We 
found  it  now  to  be  a  bold  stream,  seventy-five  yards  wide,  with  a  rocky  and  pebbly  bottom,  and 
a  rapid  current ;  water  about  two  feet  deep,  though  along  the  margin,  where  we  encamped, 
frozen  over  with  ice  three  inches  thick.  It  is  timbered  with  the  cotton- wood,  growing  in  great 
abundance  and  to  the  height  of  fifty  and  sixty  feet.  Its  valley  is  about  five  miles  wide,  bounded 
on  each  side  by  high  ranges  of  pine-clad  mountains;  the  river  bathing  the  foot  of  the  mountain 
on  the  east,  leaving  the  broad  valley  on  its  right  bank.  This  valley  is  characterized  by  the  great 
abundance  of  sage  or  artemesia,  prickly  pear,  and  the  exceedingly  poor,  clayey  character  of  its 
soil.  This  same  soil  characterizes  the  portion  of  the  valley  of  the  Jefferson  fork  travelled  over. 
Our  camp  at  night  was  about  eight  miles  above  a  high  rocky  range  of  cliffs,  where  the  river  makes 
a  large  bend  to  the  northeast.  We  found  at  our  camp  excellent  grass,  and  an  abundance  of  wood. 
Game  to-day  was  very  abundant,  consisting  of  elk,  deer,  antelope,  bear,  hare,  ducks,  and  prairie 
chickens.  A  large  grizzly  bear  came  this  morning  within  a  few  yards  of  our  camp,  but  he  took  to 
the  brush  before  we  could  approach  him.  We  succeeded  today  in  killing  two  elks,  which  was 
truly  fortunate,  as  we  had  not  an  ounce  of  meat,  and  were  now  eleven  days  Irom  the  Bilter  Root 
valley ;  so  that  the  night  in  camp  was  one  of  feasting  and  good  cheer.  About  300  pounds  of  meat 


FROM   FORT   HALL   TO   HEAD   OF   HELL   GATE   RIVER.  341 

were  packed  in  camp,  and  at  night  were  to  be  seen  the  most  choice  pieces  of  this  richly-flavored 
venison  roasting  upon  sticks  around  the  fire.  The  weather  to-day  has  been  exceedingly  mild  and 
summer-like — the  night  being  clear,  mild  and  bright.  The  Wisdom  river,  on  which  we  encamped, 
is  the  one  first  taken  by  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  travelled  up  lor  a  short  distance,  but 
left  from  a  supposed  impracticability  to  travel  up  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri;  which  former, 
if  followed  as  first  intended,  would  have  led  them  by  a  direct  and  practicable  route  to  the  Pacific, 
and  saved  them  from  the  great  suffering  and  privation  met  with  in  taking  the  Jefferson  fork,  and 
which  led  them  by  a  rough  and  rugged  route  to  the  Salmon  river,  which  really  proved  an  imprac 
ticable  route  to  the  Pacific.  By  following  this  stream  for  a  distance  of  eighty  miles,  you  reach 
the  junction  of  its  principal  forks  ;  the  one  to  the  south  leads  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Salmon 
river,  by  a  very  excellent  road,  while  the  one  to  the  west-northwest  leads  to  the  headwaters  of 
the  Bitter  Root  river,  whose  waters  flow  into  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia.  They  are  each 
of  equal  size  and  of  the  same  length,  but  can  be  travelled  in  the  winter  only  when  the  seasons 
are  mild. 

December  30,  1853. — Commences  clear  but  cold.  The  ice  made  very  thick  during  the  night,  and 
even  this  morning,  water  standing  within  a  few  inches  of  the  fire  froze  hard  in  a  few  minutes. 
Our  camp  last  night  was  surrounded  by  a  large  band  of  wolves,  who  were  anxiously  waiting 
till  we  should  take  our  departure,  expecting  a  rich  repast  from  the  great  abundance  of  fresh  meat 
killed  yesterday.  We  resumed  our  march  at  9  a  m.,  continuing  up  the  valley  of  the  Wisdom 
river  for  a  distance  of  four  and  a  half  miles  along  its  right  bank,  when,  reaching  a  point  where 
the  rocky  bluffs  formed  vertical  walls  along  its  brink,  it  became  necessary  to  cross  the  river, 
which  we  did  by  a  ford,  with  water  two  feet  deep  in  the  channel.  On  each  side  near  the  banks, 
however,  the  river  was  frozen  sufficiently  hard  to  bear  our  animals.  At  the  bluffs  referred  to 
the  rock  is  of  a  grayish  green  color,  and  at  a  short  distance  looks  not  unlike  a  slate  formation, 
which  is  traceable  for  a  distance  often  miles  up  its  right  bank.  It  is  four  hundred  feet  above  the 
general  level  of  the  valley,  and  dips  to  the  \vest  at  an  angle  of  60°.  Two  miles  from  our  camp  of 
last  night  we  crossed  a  small  creek,  coming  from  the  west,  now  frozen,  lined  with  the  cotton- 
wood  in  such  abundance  that  it  has  gained  the  name  of  "  Cottonwood  creek."  Our  trail,  up  to 
the  crossing  of  the  Wisdom  river,  lay  through  large  patches  of  sage;  in  many  places,  however, 
burnt  over  by  the  Indians.  After  the  crossing,  it  lay  principally  over  a  level  and  beautiful  prairie 
valley,  the  general  width  of  which  was  three  miles.  The  Wisdom  river  we  found  to-day  to  be 
continuously  wooded  with  the  cotton- wood,  though  much  drift  pine  wood  was  seen  along  its 
bank,  coming  from  the  mountain  bounding  the  Big  Hole  prairie  on  the  north.  The  grass  of  the 
valley  we  found  very  good.  The  soil,  however,  is  poor,  being  principally  a  yellowish  clay, 
that  bakes  in  the  sun.  Along  its  left  bank  large  areas  of  rounded  water- worn  stone  were  seen 
high  above  the  level  of  the  bed  of  the  river.  We  crossed  a  small  creek  coming  from  the  east 
called  White  Clay  Bank  creek,  a  name  given  it  from  the  great  abundance  of  white  clay  found  on 
its  banks.  This  formation  of  white  clay  occurs  also  in  very  great  abundance  along  the  main 
stream  of  the  Wisdom  river,  in  the  "Big  Hole  prairie."  Our  guide  states  that  he  has  used  it 
for  whitewashing.  It  is  a  very  excellent  substitute  for  lime.  Travelling  a  distance  of  thirteen 
miles,  we  encamped  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Wisdom  river,  finding  excellent  grass  and  an  abund 
ance  of  fuel,  consisting  of  the  cotton-wood  and  drift  pine.  We  passed  during  the  day  two  old 
camps  of  the  Nez  Perces  Indians,  where  were  left  their  corrals,  which  they  had  made  in  fear  of 
the  Blackfeet.  This  is  a  noted  rendezvous  for  the  Blackfeat  Indians,  being  a  general  thoroughfare 
for  the  Pend  d'Oreilles,  Flatheads,  Nez  Perces,  and  Banax  Indians,  during  the  spring  and  summer 
seasons.  The  Blackfeet  are  sure  to  meet  with  some  straggling  band  of  these  tribes,  all  of  whom 
they  consider  their  enemies.  We  passed  to-day  a  spot  noted  as  being  the  place  where,  some 
years  ago,  forty  Flatheads,  being  on  their  way  to  ihe  hunt,  espied  the  whole  Blackfeet  camp  on 
their  way  to  the  Flathead  country  for  the  purpose  of  murder  and  plunder,  when  the  vanguard  of 
eleven  men  of  the  Blackfeet,  being  some  miles  ahead,  were  shot  down  to  a  man  by  the  Flatheads, 


342  FROM   FORT    HALL    TO    HEAD   OF    HELL    GATE   RIVER. 

\vho  escaped  unscathed,  and  returned  to  their  homes  to  prepare  for  defence.  The  weather  during 
to-day  has  been  very  mild  and  pleasant,  though  the  night  was  cold.  This,  however,  is  the  great 
characteristic  of  the  weather  in  this  region,  warm  or  mild  during  the  day,  and  exceedingly  cold 
at  night. 

December  31,  1853. — Commences  clear  and  mild.  Every  one  turned  out  at  an  early  hour  this 
morning,  and  having  breakfasted  before  sunrise,  we  were  enabled  to  make  an  early  start.  The 
river  bein?  frozen  from  bank  to  bank  opposite  our  camp,  I  measured  its  width,  finding  it  to  be 
sixty-ei<*ht  yards.  The  ice  was  twelve  inches  thick.  The  river,  a  short  distance  above  our  camp 
of  last  nicrht,  made  a  great  bend  to  the  west,  and  passing  through  a  canon  for  three  miles,  per 
fectly  impracticable  even  for  pack  animals.  Our  trail  tended  more  to  the  east,  passing  over  a 
series  of  low  sand  ridges,  affording  us,  however,  a  very  excellent  road,  practicable  for  wagons. 
Crossing  one  of  these  low  ridges,  we  fell  upon  a  small  rivulet,  coming  from  the  east,  called  the 
Yellow  Clay  Bank  creek — so  called  from  a  large  formation  of  yellow  clay  found  on  its  banks, 
forming  in  some  places  bluffs  as  high  as  a  hundred  feet.  The  Indians  collect  this,  using  it 
for  painting,  &c.  Travelling  a  distance  of  five  miles  over  the  ridges  referred  to,  we  again  fell  upon 
the  Wisdom  river,  which  here  flowed  through  a  beautiful  prairie  valley,  hemmed  in  on  each 
side  by  mountains,  in  which  we  found  feeding  large  bands  of  antelope.  The  river  continued 
to  be  wooded  with  the  cotton-wood.  The  character  of  the  grass  and  soil  of  this  portion  of  the 
valley  was  the  same  as  that  below.  Journeying  up  this  valley  a  distance  of  three  miles,  the  river 
made  a  second  large  bend  to  the  west,  passing  through  a  rough  and  rugged  canon,  impracticable 
even  for  pack-animals.  A  trail  however,  led  over  the  mountains  south  of  the  canon,  and  is  the 
one  travelled  in  going  to  the  "  Big  Hole  prairie."  At  this  point  we  left  the  river  entirely,  and 
followed  up  the  valley  of  a  small  willow  run,  which  was  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  wide, 
affording  an  excellent  road.  We  found  the  valley  had  been  burnt  over  recently,  showing  that 
Indians  had  preceded  us,  probably  the  Nez  Perces.  The  mountains  on  each  side  were  high,  and 
covered  with  the  pine  to  about  midway  of  their  slopes.  Arriving  at  the  head  of  this  willow  river, 
we  crossed  low  clay  ridges,  the  latter  of  which  formed' the  dividing  ridge  of  the  waters  of  the 
Wisdom  river  and  those  of  the  Hell  Gate  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  river.  This  ridge  forms  no  obsta 
cle  whatever  to  the  passage  of  wagon-trains,  as  the  ascent  and  descent  are  both  easy  and  gradual. 
Arriving  on  the  summit  of  this  divide,  we  could  see  to  the  north  a  high  range  of  mountains,  which 
the  guide  pointed  out  as  being  the  ridge  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Hell  Gate  fork.  To  our 
right,  lay  a  second  but  low  ridge,  which  separated  a  small  tributary  of  the  Hell  Gate  from  the 
main  stream,  and  ended  abruptly  in  a  beautiful  prairie  valley.  This  ridge,  as  also  the  one  in  the 
distance,  was  clad  with  the  pine.  On  the  dividing  ridge  we  found  snow  two  inches  deep,  though 
no  snow  was  to  be  seen  in  the  valley  below ;  the  only  snow  besides  this  being  on  the  higher 
peaks  of  the  ridges  around  us.  Leaving  this  divide,  we  fell  upon  a  small  creek,  whose  waters 
How  into  the  Hell  Gate  river.  Having  travelled  fifteen  miles,  we  encamped  on  a  small  stream 
running  from  the  mountains  to  our  left,  where  we  found  good  grass,  wood,  and  water.  We 
entered  to-day  the  granitic  region,  as  shown  by  the  large  detached  masses  and  boulders  from  the 
mountains  passed  along  the  trail  after  crossing  the  dividing  ridge.  The  weather  to-day  has  been 
exceedingly  warm  and  summer-like.  We  found  the  weather  much  warmer  on  the  waters  of  the 
Hell  Gate  than  on  those  of  the  Missouri.  Thus  did  the  close  of  the  year  1853  find  us  once 
more  on  the  waters  of  the  Columbia,  which  we  all  greeted  with  feelings  of  joy,  as  we  now  had  no 
apprehension  of  danger  either  from  cold  or  the  snow.  We  had  all  supposed  that  our  labors  on 
the  expedition  would  have  been  closed  before  the  end  of  1853,  but  we  still  found  ourselves 
travelling  through  the  mountains  in  midwinter,  apparently  with  as  little  concern  as  if  it  had 
been  midsummer. 

January  1,  1854. — Commences  clear  and  pleasant.  We  resumed  our  march  at  S  a.  m.,  which 
continued  over  a  series  of  low  rolling  ridges,  through  whose  valley  flow  small  mountain  streams, 
all  of  which  when  open  empty  their  waters  into  a  creek  called  the  Spear  Fish  creek,  which,  eight 


FROM    FORT    HALL   TO    HEAD    OF    HELL    GATE   RIVER.  343 

miles  from  our  camp  of  last,  night,  we  crossed  and  found  frozen  to  the  bottom.  This  creek  is  so 
called  by  the  Indians,  who,  some  years  ago,  caught  fish  from  its  waters  by  spearing  them.  Jour 
neying  a  short  distance  from  this  creek,  and  crossing  a  series  of  low  sand  ridges,  we  reached  a 
long,  level,  and  beautiful  prairie  called  the  "Deer  Lodge,"  a  name  given  it  from  the  great 
number  of  deer  found  in  and  near  its  vicinity.  This  place  is  a  great  resort  for  the  Indians  west 
of  the  mountains  at  all  seasons,  and  especially  when  returning  from  the  buffalo  hunt,  where  they 
remain  several  weeks  recruiting  their  animals,  finding  the  greatest  abundance  of  rich  and  luxu 
riant  grass.  Through  it  flow  two  large  streams — one  of  which  is  the  main  stream  of  the  Hell 
Gate  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  river — and  a  great  number  of  prairie  streamlets;  thus  rendering  it  an 
excellent  recruiting  rendezvous  for  the  Indians  with  their  large  bands  ol  horses.  It  is  about  fifty 
miles  long  north  and  south,  and  from  twelve  to  fifteen  wide,  bounded  on  all  sides  save  on  the  east 
by  high  pine-clad  mountains,  the  summits  of  which  alone  are  found  covered  with  snow.  A  very 
slight  fall  of  snow  covered  the  valley.  It  is  noted  for  the  very  small  quantity  of  snow  found  on 
it  during  the  severest  winters  known  in  the  mountains,  which  gives  it  the  principal  advantage  for 
wintering  over  the  many  prairie  valleys  of  the  mountains.  Its  many  streams  are  all  lined  with 
timber,  consisting  of  the  cotton-wood,  birch,  willow,  and  the  black-haw.  Finding  our  animals 
very  much  jaded  by  their  long  march,  we  concluded  to  remain  here  a  day  to  rest  and  recruit 
them,  where  they  found  an  abundance  of  excellent  grass.  We  saw,  when  entering  this  valley, 
large  bands  of  antelope  feeding.  These,  with  a  few  mountain  sheep  and  goats,  seen  on  the 
highest  peaks  of  the  mountains,  constituted  the  game  of  the  day.  We  did  not  exert  ourselves 
to  secure  any,  since  we  had  a  great  quantity  of  elk  meat  with  us.  The  weather  to-day  has  been 
exceedingly  mild  and  summer-like,  at  noon  being  very  warm.  Travelling  a  distance  of  eighteen 
and  a  half  miles,  by  a  very  excellent  road,  we  encamped  on  the  Deer  Lodge  creek,  where 
we  found  good  grass,  wood,  and  water.  We  crossed,  about  two  miles  before  reaching  the  Deer 
Lodge  creek,  another  of  the  same  size,  called  the  Rock  Bank  creek,  a  name  given  it  from  the 
fact  of  its  passing  through  a  rocky  canon  near  its  head.  This  last-mentioned  creek,  together 
with  a  small  stream  called  the  Yellow  Bank,  rises  in  the  mountains  bounding  Deer  Lodge  on  the 
south  from  the  main  stream  of  the  Hell  Gate  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  river.  The  Deer  Lodge 
creek,  which  is  one  of  its  largest  tributaries,  near  its  head  is  fifteen  yards  wide,  with  a  rapid 
current,  channel-water  eighteen  inches  deep,  and  lined  near  its  head  with  the  cotton-wood,  but 
lower  down  with  the  willow,  birch,  alder,  and  black-haw.  The  mouth  of  the  Deer  Lodge  creek 
was  about  two  miles  below  our  camp  of  the  night.  There  is  a  second,  and  one  of  the  largest 
tributaries,  comes  in  from  the  east,  and  empties  into  the  main  stream  ten  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Deer  Lodge  creek.  By  following  up  this  tributary  to  its  head,  you  cross,  by  a  very  excel 
lent  road,  a  dividing  ridge,  and  fall  upon  the  main  stream  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri, 
which  road  is  often  followed  by  the  Indians  to  the  hunt,  thence  by  the  three  forks  of  the  Mis 
souri.  About  four  hundred  yards  from  our  camp  of  this  night  occurs  one  of  the  most  singular 
and  interesting  formations  met  with  on  our  whole  route.  It  is  a  conical  mound,  about  thirty 
feet  high,  with  an  oval  top,  around  whose  base,  from  east  by  south  to  west,  occur  innu 
merable  hot  or  boiling  springs.  On  the  top  of  this  mound  is  a  spring  of  three  feet  in  diameter, 
down  which  was  thrust  a  pole  twenty  feet  long  and  no  bottom  found.  The  water  boils  up  from 
this  spring,  but  does  not  run  off. 

The  mound  is  composed  of  a  hard  ligniform  product,  occurring  in  concentric  layers,  from  one 
to  four  inches  in  thickness.  I  cannot  call  it  a  rock,  though  it  is  as  hard  in  most  places  as  rock. 
On  its  southern  slope  occurs  an  irregular  mass  of  black  scoriated  rock,  that  looks  not  unlike 
coke,  and  when  broken  presents  the  appearance  of,  and  when  lifted  gives  evidence  of,  the 
pressure  of  iron.  It  shows  that  it  has  undergone  great  change  by  the  action  of  intense  heat. 
The  surface  on  the  southern  slope  is  incrusted  with  a  white  salt  about  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch 
thick.  Breaking  from  this  mass  of  scoriated  rock  a  small  fragment,  I  accidentally  exposed  a 
bed  of  this  white  salt,  which  apparently  extended  far  into  the  interior  of  the  mound.  It  is 


344  FROM    FORT    HALL    TO    HEAD   OF    HELL    GATE   RIVER. 

as  white  as  loaf-sugar,  and  reduces  to  a  pulverulent  state  with  the  fingers  ;  in  some  places  it  forms 
a  bed,  though  yielding  readily  to  the  knife.  A  pound  of  this  salt  was  secured,  with  the  intention  of 
submitting  it  to  Dr.  Evans,  the  geologist  of  the  expedition,  for  analysis.  The  rocks,  leaves,  grasses, 
and  even  the  ground  over  which  the  water  from  the  springs  around  the  base  of  the  mound  flows, 
are  all  covered  with  a  saffron- colored  incrustation.  The  prairie,  for  some  distance  around  and 
near  this  mound,  is  covered  with  a  white  incrustation,  in  some  places  half  an  inch  thick.  The 
springs  occur  from  east  by  south  to  west,  while  none  occur  towards  the  north.  This  mound 
occurs  in  the  middle  of  the  long  level  prairie  before  referred  to  and  described,  forming  a  promi 
nent  and  well-known  landmark.  From  the  peculiar  appearance  presented  by  this  mound,  and  its 
exceedingly  singular  formation,  I  have  supposed  it  to  be  an  extinct  volcano,  and  the  opening  on 
the  top,  now  a  spring  of  boiling  water,  to  be  its  crater.  The  surface  is  composed  of  a  substance 
which  occurs  in  concentric  layers,  varying  from  one  to  four  inches  in  thickness,  which  I  supposed 
to  have  been  thrown  from  the  crater  in  a  molten  state,  and  naturally  assumed  the  position  of 
the  parallel  layers,  as  shown  by  the  formation.  Again :  the  black  scoriated  rock  found  on  its 
surface  gives  indubitable  evidence  of  much  and  excessive  heat,  and  also  shows  that  it  was  once 
in  a  molten  state. 

The  nearest  mountains  to  this  mound  are  six  or  eight  miles  distant,  thus  forming  a  permanent 
and  notable  landmark  in  this  large,  level,  prairie  valley.  I  collected  here  a  number  of  rich  and 
valuable  specimens,  all  of  which,  together  with  those  already  collected,  have  been  submitted  to 
Dr.  Evans  for  examination  and  description. 

January  2,  1854. — Was  pleasant,  though  at  times  cloudy  ;  the  wind  blowing  moderately  from 
the  southwest.  We  remained  in  camp  to-day  on  the  Deer  Lodge  creek. 

January  3,  1854. — Commences  cloudy,  with  a  very  strong  wind  from  the  southwest,  accompa 
nied  by  a  heavy  fall  of  rain,  which  continued  till  7  a.  m.,  when  it  changed  to  a  severe  snow 
storm,  and  continued  with  great  force  till  10  a.  m.,  when  it  ceased,  cleared  off,  and  became  an 
exceedingly  bright  and  beautiful  day.  We  resumed  our  march  at  10.30  a.  m.,  which  lay  along 
the  Deer  Lodge  creek  for  a  mile,  when,  crossing  this  creek,  it  tended  down  the  valley  of  Deer 
Lodge,  by  an  exceedingly  level  and  beautiful  road,  for  a  distance  of  eighteen  miles ;  our  course 
being  north  18°  west  magnetic.  In  the  interval  we  crossed  several  mountain  streamlets,  the  waters 
of  which  were  mostly  unfrozen.  The  largest  of  these  streams,  coming  from  the  east,  is  called  the 
Race  Track  creek.  Eight  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night  we  had  a  fine  view  up  the  valley  to 
the  east,  through  which  flows  one  of  the  largest  tributaries  to  the  Hell  Gate  fork  of  the  Bitter 
Root  river,  whose  stream,  swollen  by  the  waters  of  the  numerous  prairie  rivulets  and  mountain 
streams,  running  through  wide  and  beautiful  meadows,  could  be  traced  for  many  miles  by  the  dark 
line  of  cotton-wood  bordering  its  banks,  which  was  now  two  feet  deep  in  the  channel,  and  thirty 
to  forty  yards  wide ;  while  on  its  banks  are  also  the  willow,  birch,  and  black-haw. 

For  the  greater  portion  of  to-day's  journey,  the  river  flows  through  a  broad  prairie  valley,  the 
northern  portion  of  which  is  a  continuation  of  the  Deer  Lodge  prairie,  which,  at  a  distance  of  a 
mile  from  our  trail  to  the  left,  formed  a  plateau  about  two  feet  above  the  general  level  of  the  valley, 
and  extending  to  the  base  of  the  moimtains,  which  continue  to  be  covered  with  the  pine,  and  their 
peaks  with  snow.  The  country  to  the  east,  like  that  on  the  western  portion  of  the  valley,  rises 
gradually  for  a  half-mile  from  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  with  a  very  gradual  slope  forms  a  broad 
plateau,  which  extends  to  the  base  of  the  mountains,  at  a  distance  of  eighteen  miles,  the  valley 
diminishing  to  a  width  of  four  miles — the  stream  then  bathing  the  mountains  on  the  north.  Hav 
ing  travelled  twenty  miles,  we  encamped  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  two  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Blackfoot  fork,  its  principal  and  largest  tributary.  Our  road  to-day 
has  been  exceedingly  level  and  beautiful,  being  prairie  the  whole  distance. 

The  grass  of  the  valley  continues  very  excellent.  The  soil  to-day  is  principally  of  sand,  which 
we  found  mingled  with  much  mica,  occurring  in  small  glistening  scales. 

During  the  latter  portion  of  to-day's  march  we  found  the  ground  covered  with  two  inches 


FROM    FORT    HALL    TO    HEAD    OF    HELL    GATE   RIVER.  345 

of  snow.     The  weather  toward  evening  became  quite  cold,  the  wind  blowing  very  strong  from 
the  southwest,  which  continued  with  much  force  during  the  night. 

January  4,  1854. — Commences  exceedingly  cold,  windy,  and  snowing.  The  wind  was  very 
strong  during  the  night,  accompanied  also  by  much  snow.  At  midnight  it  blew  so  hard  that 
our  tents  were  thrown  down,  and  before  they  could  be  put  up  our  limbs  were  benumbed  with 
cold,  compelling  us  to  spend  a  long,  dreary,  and  uncomfortable  night.  We  were  not  able  to 
resume  our  march  till  2  p.  m.,  on  account  of  the  severe  storm.  Our  animals  suffered  very 
much  from  the  snow  and  cold,  and  early  in  the  morning  they  were  seen  standing  around  the 
camp-fires  shivering  from  cold.  Our  march  continued  down  the  valley  of  the  Hell  Gate  fork  on 
its  right  bank,  crossing  it  at  our  camp  of  last  night.  Two  miles  from  our  camp  we  crossed  the 
Little  Blackfoot  fork,  the  largest  tributary  coming  in  from  the  east.  This  is  the  stream  that  I 
followed  down  in  crossing  the  mountains  from  the  Muscle  Shell  river  in  September  last.  Our 
course,  by  a  very  excellent  road,  continued  for  three  miles  farther  to  our  camp — making  a  march 
of  only  five  miles — encamping  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  finding  here  good  grass 
and  excellent  wood.  We  crossed  during  the  afternoon  the  trail  leading  down  the  Little  Black- 
foot  fork,  which  is  the  main  Flathead  trail  across  the  mountains.  The  day,  as  also  the  night,  has 
been  exceedingly  cold. 

January  5,  1854. — Commences  like  yesterday,  very  cold.  We  resumed  our  march  at  7  a.  m., 
which  for  five  miles  continued  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Hell  Gate  river.  The  country  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Little  Blackfoot  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley  having  already  been  described  in  detail  in 
my  report  from  the  Muscle  Shell  river,  I  do  not  here  give  it  place.  Travelling  a  distance  of 
twenty-five  miles,  we  encamped  on  a  small  tributary  coming  from  the  south,  having  crossed  the 
Hell  Gate  river  twice  during  the  day.  We  passed  during  the  day  a  small  creek  coming  from  the 
south,  in  whose  waters  gold  has  been  found,  and  at  whose  head  is  said  to  occur  a  gold  mine. 
I  intended  to  stop  a  day  to  examine  the  head  of  this  stream,  and  the  valley  through  which  it  flows ; 
but  finding  the  ground  covered  with  snow,  and  the  creek  frozen  over,  I  was  unable  to  examine 
it  for  the  present.  Passed  to-day  the  Flint  creek  from  the  south,  and  also  the  Quagmire  creek. 
Found  the  snow  four  inches  deep  on  a  level,  though  in  places  it  had  drifted  to  a  depth  of  from 
twelve  to  twenty  inches. 

January  6,  1854. — Commences  clear,  but  very  cold.  We  resumed  our  march  at  9.30  a.  m. 
The  road  to-day  we  found  very  difficult  to  travel,  the  ground  being  covered  with  a  thick  sleet; 
and,  although  this  was  covered  in  some  places  with  six  inches  of  snow,  it  made  the  travelling  not 
only  difficult  but  dangerous.  During  the  day  our  trail  lay  along  the  side  of  a  hill  of  very 
steep  descent,  down  which  two  of  our  animals  fell;  one  holding  on  to  the  brink  of  the  precipice 
by  its  forefeet,  we  were  enabled  to  put  a  rope  around  his  neck  and  take  off  the  pack,  when,  at 
tempting  to  lower  him  gradually  down  the  precipice,  the  rope  broke,  rolling  him  from  the  top 
to  the  bottom,  ovei  locks,  stones,  and  trees;  he  was  so  much  stunned  and  injured  by  the  fall  that 
we  were  compelled  to  leave  him  on  the  road.  Travelling  a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  we  en 
camped  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  finding  an  abundance  of  fuel,  but  scanty  fare 
for  our  horses,  on  account  of  the  snow.  We  crossed  the  Hell  Gate  river  once  during  the  day, 
finding  the  channel  open,  though  much  broken  ice  was  met  with  in  the  ford. 

January  7,  .1854. — Commences  cold,  and  snowing.  We  resumed  our  march  at  9  a.  m. ;  crossed 
the  Hell  Gate  river  within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  camp,  the  channel  of  which  we  found  open, 
though  there  was  ice  for  several  feet  along  the  margin,  and  three  inches  thick.  We  had  great  dif 
ficulty  in  crossing  the  stream,  everything  in  our  pack  becoming  thoroughly  saturated  with  water, 
and  every  one  was  wet  as  far  as  the  waist,  some  being  compelled  to  wade  the  river.  From 
this  crossing  there  were  two  trails  we  could  follow — the  one  leading  down  the  valley,  crossing 
the  river  several  times ;  the  second  leading  along  the  side  of  the  hills.  I  told  the  guide  that  we 
would  take  the  latter,  which  turned  out  to  be  so  difficult  and  dangerous,  that  I  afterwards  re 
gretted  it.  The  mountains  proved  to  be  very  steep,  and,  being  covered  with  a  thick  sleet. 
44  f 


346  FROM    FORT    II ALL    TO    HEAD    OF    HELL    GATE    RIVER. 

rendered  travelling  exceedingly  dangerous  for  both  men  and  animals.  Below  us  was  a  preci 
pice  of  one  hundred  feet;  here  one  of  the  animals  missed  his  footing  and  rolled  to  the  bottom. 
We  were  enabled  to  make  but  eight  miles'  march  to-day,  camping  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Hell 
Gate  river,  where  we  found  excellent  grass  for  our  animals.  We  were  compelled  to  build  a 
large  fire  to  dry  our  baggage — wet  during  the  crossings.  Our  chapter  of  misfortunes  now  seemed 
to  have  commenced ;  and  although  we  estimated  that  we  were  but  sixty  miles  from  our  main 
camp  on  the  Bitter  Root  river,  we  could  form  no  idea  when  we  should  arrive  there.  It  continued 
snowing  the  whole  night. 

January  8,  1854. — Commences  mild,  and  comparatively  pleasant.  The  ice,  however,  made 
an  inch  thick  during  the  night.  We  resumed  our  march  at  9  a.  m.,  crossing  the  Hell  Gate  river 
within  a  few  yards  of  our  camp,  where  we  experienced  much  trouble  in  crossing  our  animals. 
The  channel  was  open,  with  water  two  and  a  half  feet  deep ;  current  very  rapid.  The  margin, 
however,  on  each  side  for  several  feet  was  blocked  with  ice.  Our  trail,  to-day,  lay  principally 
through  a  beautiful  pine  forest.  Travelling  a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  we  encamped  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  finding  scanty  fare  for  our  animals,  the  snow  being  from  three  to 
six  inches  deep.  The  weather  has  been  mild  to-day  till  7  p.  m.,  when  it  commenced  raining, 
which  continued  throughout  the  night. 

January  9,  1S54. — Commences  mild  and  rainy,  which  continued  till  8  a.  m.,  partially  melting 
the  snow,  and  rendering  our  travelling  much  better  than  it  had  been  for  several  days  past.  I 
despatched  Gabriel,  the  guide,  this  morning  for  our  main  camp  on  the  Bitter  Root  river,  to  have 
certain  preparations  made  on  our  arrival.  We  resumed  our  march  at  9.30  a.  m.,  and  at  the  dis 
tance  of  a  mile  struck  the  Big  Blackfoot,  which  we  crossed  with  some  difficulty.  We  made  the 
crossing  of  the  main  stream  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Blackfoot,  without 
difficulty ;  and  also  the  crossing  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  where  we  found  the  ice  about  three 
inches  thick.  Travelling  a  distance  of  twenty-two  miles,  we  encamped  upon  the  left  bank  of  the 
Bitter  Root  river,  where  our  animals  were  amply  repaid  for  their  scanty  fare  of  the  last  few 
nights  by  an  abundance  of  rich  grass.  The  weather,  to-day,  has  been  exceedingly  warm  and 
pleasant,  though  towards  sunset  it  became  cold,  with  a  slight  fall  of  snow  in  the  valley,  while 
heavy  snow-clouds  covered  the  tops  of  the  mountains  on  each  side  of  the  valley.  We  thus  found 
ourselves  once  more  in  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  and  there  was  no  one  who  regretted  it. 

January  10,  1854. — Commences  mild  and  pleasant.  We  resumed  our  march  at  8  a.  m.  up  the 
Bitter  Root  valley,  crossing  the  Bitter  Root  river  with  an  open  channel,  and  arrived  at  Fort 
Owen  at  2  p.  m.,  where  we  were  kindly  received  by  the  proprietors,  the  Messrs.  Owen.  Spend 
ing  the  night  under  their  hospitable  roof,  we  reached  our  main  camp  on  the  next  day ;  finding 
here  that  our  winter  quarters  had  been  completed,  corral  for  animals,  and  everything  built,  and 
the  men  comfortably  in  cantonment.  Here  was  camped  the  whole  Flathead  tribe  of  Indians, 
who  wrere  awaiting  our  arrival.  Thus  we  found  ourselves  at  the  main  camp  after  an  absence  of 
forty-five  days,  during  which  time  we  had  crossed  the  mountains  four  times,  completely  turning 
the  eastern  portion  of  the  Bitter  Root  range  by  a  line  of  seven  hundred  miles,  experiencing  a 
complete  change  of  climate,  and  crossing  two  sections  of  country  different  in  soil,  formation,  natural 
features,  capability,  and  general  character.  Crossing  also,  in  all  their  ramifications,  the  head 
waters  of  the  two  great  rivers,  Missouri  and  Columbia,  we  had  now  a  fine  opportunity  to  com 
pare  the  climate  and  character  of  the  Bitter  Root  valley  with  that  of  the  Hell  Gate,  and  others 
in  its  vicinity.  In  the  former  snow  was  found  from  four  to  six  inches  deep,  while  in  the  latter 
the  ground  was  perfectly  free  from  snow.  It  seemed  as  if  we  had  entered  an  entirely  different 
region  and  different  climate ;  the  Bitter  Root  valley  thus  proving  that  it  well  merits  the  name 
of  the  valley  of  perennial  spring.  The  fact  of  the  exceedingly  mild  winters  in  the  valley  has  been 
noticed  and  remarked  by  every  one  who  has  ever  been  in  it  during  the  winter  season;  thus 
affording  an  excellent  rendezvous  and  recruiting  station  for  the  Indians  in  its  vicinity,  and  to 
those  sojourning  in  it,  as  well  as  all  others  who  might  be  overtaken  by  the  cold  or  snow  of  the 


FROM   FORT    IIALL    TO    HEAD    OF    HELL    GATE    RIVER.  347 

mountains.  It  is  the  home  of  the  Flathead  Indians,  where,  through  the  instrumentality  and  exer 
tions  of  the  Jesuit  priests,  they  have  built  up  a  village,  not  of  lodges,  but  of  houses,  where  they 
repair  every  winter;  and  with  this  valley,  covered  with  an  abundance  of  rich  and  nutritious 
grass,  affording  to  their  large  band  of  horses  grazing  and  space,  they  live  as  contentedly  and  as 
happily  as  probably  any  tribe  of  Indians  either  east  or  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  Its  capa 
bility  in  other  respects  aside  from  grazing  has  already  been  referred  to  in  this  report,  and  is  01 
sufficient  interest  and  importance  to  attract  the  attention  of  and  hold  out  inducements  to  settlers 
and  others.  All  that  it  at  present  needs  is  to  have  some  direct  connexion  with  the  east  or  the 
west,  and  the  advantages  that  it  and  the  sections  in  its  vicinity  possess  will  be  of  sufficient  im 
portance  to  necessarily  command  attention.  The  numerous  mountain  rivulets,  tributaries  to  the 
Bitter  Root  river,  that  run  through  this  valley,  afford  excellent  and  abundant  mill-sites,  and  the 
land  bordering  these  streams  is  fertile  and  productive  ;  and  this  has  been  proved,  beyond  a  cavil 
or  doubt,  to  be  well  suited  to  every  branch  of  agriculture.  I  have  seen  oats  grown  in  this  valley, 
by  Mr.  John  Owen,  that  are  as  heavy  and  as  excellent  as  any  I  have  ever  seen  in  the  States ; 
and  the  same  gentleman  has  informed  me  that  he  has  grown  most  excellent  wheat;  and  that  from 
his  experience  \vhile  in  the  mountains  he  hesitates  not  to  say  that  here  might  agriculture  be  car 
ried  on  in  its  numerous  branches,  and  to  the  exceeding  great  gain  and  interest  of  those  engaged 
in  it.  The  valley  and  mountain-slopes  are  well  timbered  with  an  excellent  growth  of  pine, 
which  is  equal  in  every  respect  to  the  well-known  and  noted  pine  of  Oregon.  The  advantages, 
therefore,  possessed  by  this  section,  are  of  great  importance,  and  offer  peculiar  inducements  to 
the  settler.  Its  valley  is  not  only  capable  of  grazing  immense  bands  of  stock  of  every  kind,  but 
is  also .  capable  of  supporting  a  dense  population.  The  mountain-slopes  on  either  side  of  the 
valley,  and  the  land  along  the  base  of  the  mountains,  afford  at  all  seasons,  even  during  the  most 
severe  winters,  grazing  ground  in  abundance,  while  the  mountains  are  covered  with  a  beautiful 
growth  of  pine. 

The  provisions  of  nature  here  are  therefore  on  no  small  scale,  and  of  no  small  importance ; 
and  let  those  who  have  imagined  (and  some  have  been  so  bold  as  to  say  it)  that  there  exists  only 
one  immense  bed  of  mountains  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri  to  the  Cascade  range,  turn 
their  attention  to  this  section,  and  let  them  contemplate  its  advantages  and  resources,  and  ask 
themselves,  since  these  things  exist,  can  it  be  long  before  public  attention  shall  be  attracted  and 
fastened  upon  this  hitherto  unknown  and  neglected  region — can  it  be  that  we  should  have  so 
near  our  Pacific  coast  a  section  of  hundreds  of  thousands  of  acres  that  will  remain  forever  un- 
titled,  uncultivated,  and  totally  neglected.  It  cannot  be.  But  let  a  connexion,  and  that  the  most 
direct,  be  made  between  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  Pacific,  (and  it  can  be 
done,)  and  soon  will  these  advantages  necessarily  thrust  themselves  upon  public  attention,  and 
open  to  the  industrious  and  persevering  avenues  to  wealth  and  of  power. 

Again :  this  section  connects  with  another  of  equal  if  not  superior  importance — that  of  the 
Cceur  d'Alene  country,  which  again  connects  directly  by  a  beautiful  section  with  the  country  at 
and  near  the  Wallah-Wallah;  thus  showing  that  from  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  we  possess  a  rich,  fertile,  and  productive  area,  that  needs  but  the 
proper  means  and  measures  to  be  put  forth  and  manfully  employed  to  be  turned  to  public  and 
private  benefit. 

Let  the  Cascades  and  Dalles  of  the  Columbia  be  removed  by  an  appropriation  from  the  gov 
ernment,  and  we  shall  have,  and  that  direct,  steamboat  navigation  from  the  mouth  of  the  Colum 
bia  to  the  mouth  of  and  for  some  distance  up  the  Snake  river,  and  even  to  the  Kettle  falls  of  the 
Columbia;  and  that  will  give  to  Oregon  and  Washington  Territories  the  great  keys  of  wealth 
and  importance,  the  influence  of  which  will  not  and  cannot  be  sectional  or  local,  but  be  felt  by 
all  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  our  land,  and  that  will  finally  redound  to  our  nation's 
interest  and  welfare,  to  say  nothing  of  the  great  and  paramount  advantage  to  be  gained  so  far 
as  regards  the  problem  of  national  defence.  For,  by  opening  an  avenue  from  the  Mississippi  to 


348  FROM    FORT    HALL    TO    HEAD    OF    HELL    GATE    RIVER. 

the  Pncific,  it  must  necessarily  become  ihe  great  thoroughfare  of  travel  from  the  two  ocrans 
\v  ;sb:ng  the  east  and  west  co:ists  of  our  country,  not  only  for  our  own  citizens,  but  Europe  on 
the  one  side,  and  Asia,  together  with  the  numerous  and  valuable  islmds  of  the  Pacific,  on  the 
other;  will  naturally  turn  the  course  of  their  trade  and  travel  for  this  grand  avenue,  which  must 
needs  therefore  be  guarded  for  our  nation's  safety  as  well  as  prosperity;  will  afford  an  easy, 
direct,  and  expeditious  connexion  for  transporting  men  and  munitions  of  war  to  the  Pacific  in 
case  of  danger  or  difficulty  from  abroad;  and  will  (we  feel  the  necessity  every  day)  dispense 
with  in  a  great  measure  the  long,  dangerous,  and  circuitous  route  either  of  the  Isthmus  or  by 
Cape  Horn. 

Looking  back  upon  our  route,  we  saw  we  had  followed  the  Bitter  Root  river  to  its  head, 
which  we  found  from  its  mouth  to  be  ninety-five  miles  long,  flowing  through  a  wide  and  beautiful 
valley,  whose  soil  is  fertile  and  productive,  and  well  timbered  with  the  pine  and  cotton-wood; 
but  whose  chief  characteristic  and  capability  is  that  of  grazing  large  bands  of  cattle,  and  affording 
excellent  mill-sites  along  the  numerous  streams  flowing  from  the  mountains.  The  country  thence, 
•which  is  watered  by  tributaries  to  the  Missouri  and  its  forks,  to  the  range  of  mountains  separating 
these  waters  from  those  of  the  Snake  river,  or  the  south  branch  of  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia, 
is  also  fertile ;  but.  its  characteristic  feature  is  the  great  scarcity  of  timber  for  any  purpose,  the 
willow  and  wild  sage  being  used  for  fuel  along  the  whole  route.  The  geological  formation  of 
this  section  belongs  to  the  tertiary  period.  The  capability  of  this  bioad  area,  however,  for 
grazing,  is  excellent.  It  is  the  great  resort,  at  present,  for  all  Indians  in  the  mountains;  the 
mountains  and  valleys  affording  a  great  abundance  of  game — consisting  of  elk,  bear,  deer,  and 
antelope — while  the  numerous  rivers  and  streams  abound  in  fish  and  beaver.  The  latter  are 
still  caught  in  large  numbers  on  the  headwaters  and  tributaries  of  the  Missouri,  but  are  not  so 
anxiously  sought  after  as  in  years  back,  owing  to  the  great  depreciation  of  value  in  the  market 
east.  The  whole  country  is  formed  of  a  series  of  mountain  ranges  or  ridges,  with  their  inter 
vening  valleys,  all  of  which  are  well  defined  and  marked ;  the  decomposition  and  washings  of 
the  rocks  of  the  mountains  giving  character  to  the  soil  of  the  valleys,  which  may  be  termed,  as 
a  general  thing,  fertile.  The  geological  formations  along  the  Jefferson  fork,  and  its  principal 
tributaries,  are  limestone  and  conglomerate  rock.  From  the  range  called  the  Snake  River  divide, 
the  whole  character  of  the  country  is  completely  changed.  Here  the  geological  formation  is 
basaltic  and  volcanic  principally.  None  of  the  numerous  streams  and  rivulets  flowing  from  the 
mountains  along  the  route  we  travelled  emptied  into  the  Snake  river;  but  either  sunk  into  the 
ground,  or  formed  small  lakes  in  the  broad  valley  of  the  Snake  river.  The  ground  in  most  places 
is  formed  principally  of  sand,  and  where  large  beds  of  basalt  are  not  found  the  ground  is  of  a 
very  dry,  absorbing  nature,  through  which  the  water  sinks — at  times  bursting  out  again.  It  was 
somewhat  singular  that  for  sixty  miles  above  Fort  Hall,  along  the  main  stream  of  the  Snake 
river,  we  did  not  cross  but  one  tributary,  and  this  coming  in  from  the  south,  while  none  came 
from  the  north;  all  of  the  streams,  as  before  mentioned,  either  forming  lakes  or  sinking  into  the 
ground.  This  section  is  also  noted  for  the  great  scarcity  of  timber  and  the  immense  plains  of 
wild  sage,  which  is  so  abundant  that  it  merits  the  name  of  the  Sage  Desert  of  the  mountains. 
It  extends  for  many  miles  in  length  and  breadth,  forming  an  immense  sea  of  prairie,  whose  same 
ness  is  only  broken  by  the  "Three  Buttes"  of  the  valley,  which  rise  like  islands  in  the  sea  in 
this  broad  and  barren  area.  Its  whole  characteristic  might  be  described  in  the  one  word — 
sterility.  From  the  mountains  bounding  the  Snake  river  valley  on  the  north  to  Fort  Hall,  a 
travelled  distance  of  one  hundred  and  twelve  miles,  there  is  but  one  fertile  spot  of  ground  that 
could  be  converted  to  any  useful  purpose,  and  this  is  found  at  Cantonment  Loring,  five  miles 
above  Fort  Hall.  Here  the  soil  is  of  a  grayish  blue  clay  and  sand,  that  might  be  made  use  of 
for  agricultural  purposes.  The  grazing  here  is  most  excellent. 

Our  return  route  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  which  lay  to  the  east  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains, 
from  the  Snake  river  to  the  ridge  separating  the  waters  of  Wisdom  river,  or  the  Big  Hole  fork  of 


FROM    CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO    FORT    BENTON.  349 

the  Jefferson  river  from  those  of  the  Hell  Gate  river,  the  same  general  remarks  will  apply  as 
those  describing  the  country  from  the  head  of  the  Bitter  Root  river  to  Fort.  Hall;  a  series  of 
mountain  ranges,  giving  beautiful  prairie  valleys,  through  which  wind  streams  from  the  mountain- 
slopes,  that  pour  their  tributaries  into  the  Missouri  and  its  forks.  Leaving  the  ridges  referred  to, 
you  again  enter  a  different  and  milder  region,  through  which  flow  tributaries  to  Clark's  fork  of 
the  Columbia.  Here  the  soil  is  a  rich  loam ;  timber  is  abundant;  climate  exceedingly  mild, 
even  during  the  severest  winter.  We  entered  it  on  the  1st  of  January,  and  snow  scarcely  cover 
ing  the  ground  was  to  be  found  in  the  valley.  This  section  connects  with  the  Bitter  Root  valley. 
We  thence  followed  down  the  Hell  Gate  river  from  its  head  to  where  it  debouches  from  the 
mountains,  five  miles  above  its  mouth,  which  we  found  to  be  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles 
long,  flowing  through  a  fertile,  well-timbered  valley,  from  two  to  five  miles  wide,  bounded  on  each 
side  by  high  pine-clad  mountains.  Game  is  found  in  great  abundance  in  these  mountains,  being 
principally  elk  and  bear.  Additional  description  of  each  portion  of  the  route  having  already 
been  given,  I  only  deem  it  necessary  to  say  that  both  routes  travelled  are  perfectly  practicable 
for  wagons,  though  the  return  route  is  by  far  the  better  of  the  two,  though  from  sixty  to  eighty 
miles  longer.  I  regretted  that  I  could  not  have  made  a  barometrical  profile  of  the  two  routes, 
but  this  resulted  from  the  fact  that  a  barometer  could  not  be  dispensed  with  in  the  Bitter  Root 
valley,  where  was  being  kept  a  regular  series  of  meteorological  observations,  to  ascertain  the 
character  of  the  winter  in  this  region.  Such  points  of  the  route  that  were  of  sufficient  interest  and 
importance  to  be  noted  particularly  were  faithfully  sketched  by  Mr.  Adams,  the  artist  of  the  party, 
to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  the  accompanying  sketches. 

Truly  and  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 
JOHN  MULLAN, 

Lieutenant   U.  S.  Army. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Command  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Exploration  and  Survey, 


26.  REPORT  OF  ROUTE  FROM  CANTONMENT   STEVENS  TO  FORT  BENTON  AND  BACK,  BY  LIEUT. 

JOHN  MULLAN,  U.  S.  A. 

CANTONMENT  STEVENS,  BITTER  ROOT  VALLEY, 

April  2,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  report,  that  in  conformity  to  your  letter  of  instructions  to  continue  the 
exploration  of  the  country  between  the  Rocky  and  Bitter  Root  ranges  of  mountains,  and  the 
examination  of  the  mountain  passes  between  the -43d  and  49th  parallels  of  latitude,  I  left  the 
Bitter  Root  valley  on  the  1st  of  March  to  examine  a  new  route  thence  to  Fort  Benton,  on  the 
Missouri,  and  to  ascertain  its  practicability  for  a  railroad  route,  as  also  the  passage  of  wagon- 
trains  ;  and  at  the  same  time  to  obtain  a  knowledge,  from  actual  observation,  of  the  depth  of  the 
snow  arid  the  character  of  the  mountains  generally  at  that  season. 

Lieutenant  Grover,  in  crossing  the  mountains  in  the  month  of  January,  had  an  opportunity -of 
ascertaining  the  depth  of  snow  up  to  that  period ;  and  I  thought  it  adding  another  link  to  the  chain 
of  knowledge  of  the  mountains  to  ascertain  their  character  at  a  period  two  months  later.  I  was 
led  to  believe,  by  information  gained  from  the  mountaineers  and  trappers  in  this  region,  that 
there  existed  a  road  from  the  Falls  of  the  Missouri  to  this  valley  over  which  wagons  could  pass  with 
out  difficulty ;  and  having  passed  over  and  examined  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  of  the  route 
in  September,  1S53,  and  found  it  practicable  for  a  wagon-road,  I  placed  full  confidence  in  the  inform 
ation,  and  started  with  the  intention  that,  should  the  route  upon  examination  prove  practicable, 
to  bring  with  me  a  wagon  from  Fort  Benton  to  this  valley.  And  I  have  the  honor  now  to  report 
that  I  have  been  perfectly  successful,  and  have  found  in  the  mountains  a  wagon-road,  the  advan 
tages  of  which  are  equal,  if  not  far  superior,  to  any  existing  across  the  mountains.  I  had  also 


350  FROM    FORT   BENTON    TO    CANTONMENT    STEVENS. 

determined  to  examine  the  country  immediately  along  the  Missouri  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  point 
where  I  crossed  the  Missouri  in  my  examination  from  the  Muscle  Shell  across  the  Rocky  mountains, 
in  September,  1S53,  which  up  to  this  time  had  remained  unexplored,  save  partially  by  Mr.  Tink- 
ham,  in  November,  1853.  My  working  party  consisted  of  a  half-breed  Cree,  who  was  my 
interpreter,  and  four  of  my  own  men.  My  route  to  Fort  Benton  lay  up  the  Hell  Gate  river  to 
its  junction  with  the  Little  Blackfoot,  thence  up  the  Little  Blackfbot  across  the  mountains.  Arri 
ving  at  the  forks  of  the  Little  Blackfoot,  I  found  the  snow  ten  inches  deep;  and  knowing  there 
were  two  passes,  one  to  each  fork,  I  took  the  more  southern  of  the  two.  I  thence  struck  for  the 
Missouri  river,  and  examined  the  line  of  bluffs  along  its  left  bank,  that  extend  from  about  thirty 
miles  above  the  falls  to  near  the  three  forks  of  the  Missouri.  I  found  these  bluffs  very  rough 
and  rugged,  affording  us  a  very  difficult  road  even  for  my  pack-train.  In  a  word,  it  is  one 
immense  bed  of  mountains,  extending  along  the  Missouri  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and 
fifteen  miles  wide,  necessitating  the  case  of  a  road  being  to  their  north.  These  bluffs  are  mostly 
well  wooded  with  an  abundant  and  large  growth  of  pine.  The  rock  found  through  them  is  mostly 
granite.  At  this  point  the  Missouri  flows  mostly  through  a  mountain  defile  with  a  rapid  current, 
and  in  many  places  verj^  deep  and  narrow.  Leaving  the  bluffs,  through  which  I  travelled  three 
days,  we  crossed  the  Missouri,  in  order  to  avoid  the  numerous  and  difficult  coulees  extending 
along  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri  from  the  bluffs  to  Fort  Benton.  But  I  found  the  country 
to  the  south  immediately  along  the  Missouri  but  little,  if  any,  better  than  that  to  the  north.  In 
places  it  is  much  cut  up  by  very  deep  and  rugged  coulees,  that  are  impracticable  for  anything 
save  a  pack-trail.  I  arrived  at  Fort  Benton. on  the  morning  of  the  14th.  On  the  morning  of  the 
17th  I  started  on  my  return  to  this  valley,  bringing  with  me  a  wagon,  with  a  four-mule  team. 

I  saw  that  by  keeping  on  the  high  table-land  between  the  Teton  and  Missouri  rivers,  I  might 
avoid  the  many  coulees  that  make  from  each  of  these  rivers,  and  thus  gain  an  excellent  wagon 
road.  This  turned  out  to  be  the  case,  and  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  Sun  or  Medicine  river  I 
f  ,tmd  a  perfectly  level  prairie  road.  My  route  'thence  to  the  Dearborn  river  lay  a  very  few 
miles  to  the  south  of  that  followed  and  examined  by  Lieutenant  Donelson,  in  September,  1853. 

Presuming  that  officer  has  already  reported  upon  the  general  character  of  that  section,  I  pass 
over  it,  simply  remarking  that  I  found  a  beautiful  road  for  my  wagon. 

From  the  Dearborn  river  my  course  lay  more  to  the  south  of  west  than  that  followed  by 
Lieutenant  Donelson;  and  at  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles  from  the  Dearborn  struck  a  stream  that 
rises  in  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  is  known  among  the  Indians  by  the  name 
of  the  Small  Prickly  Pear  creek. 

The  country  between  these  two  streams  is  a  rolling  prairie,  which  afforded  us  an  excellent 
road.  The  valley  of  the  Small  Prickly  Pear  creek,  which  is  half  a  mile  wide,  I  found  well 
wooded  with  the  cotton-wood  and  willow.  Here  the  fallen  timber  was  the  first  obstacle  met  with 
from  Fort  Benton,  a  measured  distance  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-four  miles.  I  found  it 
necessary  to  remain  in  camp  to-day,  and  with  my  party  make  the  road.  In  eight  hours  every 
obstacle  was  removed,  and  resuming  our  march,  the  day  following  we  found  the  road  very 
excellent.  At  this  point  you  will  observe,  from  the  accompanying  map,  that  my  trail  left  the 
river,  tending  to  the  north.  This  was  not  necessary,  as  an  excellent  road  lay  up  the  valley  of 
the  stream ;  but,  as  it  would  have  been  necessary  to  make  a  road  through  the  timber,  which 
would  probably  have  delayed  me  another  day,  I  preferred  leaving  the  river  rmd  following  an 
Indian  trail  that  led  to  the  northwest,  and  which  fell  upon  the  river  a  second  time.  A  large 
party,  however,  would  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  follow  up  the  valley  of  this  stream,  for  when 
striking  the  stream  a  second  time,  I  found  that  my  route  on  this  day  would  have  been  shortened 
by  six  or  eight  miles;  and  on  the  next  day  the  same  thing  occurred,  when  I  again  left  the  river 
and  followed  for  a  few  miles  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  when,  by  following  the  river  valley,  my 
route  would  have  been  more  direct  for  the  mountain  pass,  and  would  have  shortened  my  distance 
twelve  or  fifteen  miles.  There  are  two  parallel  low  mountain  ranges,  or  bluffs,  through  which 


FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    CANTONMENT    STEVENS.  351 

are  two  gaps  where  this  stream  flows,  by  following  which  you  reach  the  mountain  from  Fort 
Benton  without  any  difficulty  or  obstacle  save  the  timber,  which,  being  small  and  scattering, 
would  be  cleared  out  in  two  days  by  six  men.  Leaving  the  Small  Prickly  Pear  creek  to  my 
north,  and  at  a  mile  distant,  the  country  thence  to  the  mountains  is  a  rolling  prairie.  On  the 
seventh  night  from  Fort  Benton  I  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  on  the  east,  forming  the 
dividing  ridge  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  waters.  The  day  following  I  crossed  the  mountain 
with  no  difficulty  whatever;  found  no  snow  upon  its  summit,  and  the  mountain  itself  nothing  more 
than  a  low  prairie  ridge.  The  ascent  and  descent  are  so  exceedingly  gradual,  that  not  only  was  it 
not  necessary  to  lock  the  wheels  of  the  wagon  in  descending,  but  it  was  driven  with  the  animals 
trotting.  One  could  scarcely  have  believed  that  there  existed  such  a  beautiful  and  easy  pass 
in  the  mountains.  For  a  railroad  it  would  involve  a  cut  of  one  hundred  feet  deep,  and  half  a 
mile  long,  which  was  the  measured  distance  from  base  to  base.  From  the  mountains  I  followed 
down  the  northern  branch  of  the  Little  Blackfoot,  thence  by  the  Hell  Gate  river  to  the  Bitter  Root 
valley,  where  I  arrived  on  the  27th  of  March,  and  at  Fort  Owen  on  the  30th,  making  the  travelling 
time,  with  my  wagon,  twelve  days  from  Fort  Benton  to  Fort  Owen. 

I  ran  an  odometer  line  over  the  whole  route,  and  found  it  to  be  only  forty-four  miles  longer 
than  that  followed  by  the  train  under  Lieutenant  Donelson.  I  was  favored  with  much  beautiful 
weather  during  the  whole  time,  finding  no  snow  save  at  the  head  of  the  Little  Blackfoot,  and  on 
the  summit  (ten  inches)  when  going;  no  snow  east  of  the  mountains;  and  I  found  no  snow 
whatever  on  my  whole  return  route.  I  was  enabled,  also,  on  this  tour,  to  fix  accurately  many 
points  of  the  streams  crossed  by  the  main  party  to  the  mountains,  having  passed  much  nearer 
the  Missouri  than  Lieutenant  Donelson ;  especially  the  Dearborn  river  and  the  Crown  Butte 
creek,  which  latter  does  not  empty  into  the  Missouri,  but  which  with  a  smaller  stream  forms  a 
lake,  the  outlet  of  which  sinks  into  the  ground  five  miles  to  the  north  of  the  Missouri.  I  was 
enabled  to  make  the  trip  in  the  short  time  mentioned,  having  with  me  animals  in  fine  condition 
and  in  good  working  order.  Accompanying  this  you  will  find  sketches  of  the  principal  features 
of  the  route,  among  which  is  a  panorama  sketch  of  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains 
from  the  Marias  Pass  to  the  pass  crossed  by  my  party.  Also,  as  viewed  from  the  east,  a  sketch 
of  my  camp  at  the  Bear's  Teeth,  on  the  Missouri.  This  is  a  prominent  and  well  known  land 
mark  in  the  bed  of  bluffs  along  the  Missouri;  and  the  sketch  is  characteristic  of  the  country,  as 
also  of  the  Missouri,  as  it  flows  through  the  bluffs.  Also,  a  sketch  of  the  Missouri  River 
mountains,  from  the  Little  Blackfoot  Pass.  The  point  where  the  Missouri  leaves  the  bluffs 
referred  to,  is  the  "  Gate  of  the  Mountains,"  so  called  by  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  in  1804.  The 
route  I  passed  over  on  rny  return,  and  examined,  I  can  therefore  report  as  perfectly  practicable 
for  a  railroad  route,  and  for  a  wagon  road  forms  an  easy  and  beautiful  link  in  the  chain  extended 
and  examined  by  you  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  Fort  Benton,  on  the  Missouri.  The  route  is 
well  wooded  and  watered,  and  there  is  an  abundance  of  excellent  grass  the  whole  distance,  the 
quality  and  quantity  of  which  were  shown  by  the  fine  condition  of  my  animals  on  their  return. 
I  lost  no  animals  on  the  trip,  a  distance  of  nearly  six  hundred  miles,  and  in  a  season  heretofore 
deemed  impracticable  for  travelling  in  the  Rocky  mountains.  From  Fort  Benton  to  the  mount 
ains,  the  route  lying  over  a  rolling  prairie  country,  would  for  a  railroad  involve  cuts  not  deeper 
at  any  point  than  one  hundred  feet.  From  the  mountains  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  you  have  a 
gently  sloping  valley  the  whole  distance.  I  do  not  here  make  mention  of  the  character  of  either 
the  Little  Blackfoot  or  Hell  Gate  rivers,  having  already  given  you  a  full  and  detailed  description 
of  each  of  these  streams,  their  valleys,  capabilities,  &c.,  in  my  report  of  January  21,  1854. 
There  is  still  another  pass  between  this  last  described  and  the  one  followed  by  Lieutenant 
Donelson,  which  I  intend  to  examine.  The  existence,  therefore,  of  this  pass  in  the  mountains, 
with  beautiful  approaches  on  either  side,  must  necessarily  throw  additional  light  upon  the  char 
acter  of  this  region  ;  and  being  travelled  at  the  period  we  crossed  the  mountains,  and  finding  no 
snow  whatever,  will  show  to  many  not  otherwise  properly  informed,  that  this  region  is  not  the 


352  ITINERARY    OF    ROUTE   FROM    ST.    PAUL    TO    FORT    UNION, 

Siberia  of  America  that  it  has  often  been  represented  to  be.  The  winter  has  been  remarkably 
mild.  In  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  at  no  time  has  snow  been  deeper  than  four  inches;  and  even 
this  from  several  falls  of  snow.  On  my  arrival  at  Fort  Benton,  and  from  my  own  observation, 
I  have  been  informed  of  the  exceedingly  mild  character  of  winters  having  but  little  snow,  and 
comparatively  little  cold.  Having  made  full  and  detailed  notes  of  each  point  of  the  route — in 
fact,  of  the  two  routes — I  will  be  enabled  to  make  you  a  more  full  and  detailed  report,  should  it  be 
at  all  necessary. 

Truly  and  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  MULL  AN, 
Lieutenant   U.  S.  Army. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Command  of  N.    P.  Railroad  Exploration  and  Survey. 


H. 

ITINERARY. 
27.  ITINERARY  OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  ST.  PAUL  TO  FORT  UNION,  BY  A.  w.  TINKHAM. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

March  11,  1854. 

SIR  :  I  have  prepared,  and  herewith  submit,  an  itinerary  of  the  route  pursued  by  the  train  from 
St.  Paul  to  Fort  Union. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  W.  TINKHAM. 
Governor  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  N.  P.  Railroad  Exploration,  Olympia,  W.  T. 

Miles. 

June  2,  1853. — Camp  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  Paul,  one  and  a  half  mile  from  town, 
on  old  St.  Anthony  road;  owing  to  our  nearness  to  the  town,  grass  poor  and  wood 

scanty ;  water  obtained  from  a  house  near  by l£ 

June  3. — By  the  St.  Anthony  road  ;  pass  over  green,  fertile  prairie,  with  rich, 
dark  soil,  or  between  cultivated  fields,  to  St.  Anthony;  in  about  five  miles  the  road 
approaches  the  Mississippi  river,  and  thence  forward  to  the  town  winding  along  its 

bank 7£ 

Winding  parallel  with  the  Mississippi,  road  runs  through  fertile  prairies  and 

oak  openings ;  reaching  Rice  creek,  crossed  by  a  good  bridge 7£ 

Camped  on  a  small  brook  ;  wood  and  grass  good ;  water  good  and  convenient ; 
soil  sandy 2J 

—    m 

June  4. — Continuing  through  prairies  or  oak  openings,  with  a  good  road ;  cross 
Crow  creek,  a  small  stream,  by  a  miserable  bridge 3$ 

Through  oak  openings,  with  tamarac  swamps  in  sight  some  two  miles  to  the 
right  of  road ;  road  reaches  Rum  river,  a  river  some  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
wide,  and  supplied  with  a  ferry 5J 

Through  prairies  and  oak  openings,  with  scarcity  of  water,  lighter  and  often 
sandy  soil,  to  camp  on  small  rivulet  about  half  a  mile  from  the  Mississippi;  wood 

and  water  good ;  grass  in  the  low  lands  near  Mississippi  luxuriant 11 

20 


ITINERARY    OF   ROUTE   FROM    ST.    PAUL    TO    FORT    UNION.  353 

June  5,  Sunday. — In  camp  ;  showers  of  rain  ;  black  flies  excessively  annoying, 
so  thickly  besetting  the  mules  as  to  endanger  them. 

June  6. — Passing  over  rolling  prairie,  the  road  touches  on  Elk  river,  flowing  some 
sixty  feet  or  so  below  the  level  of  the  road,  crossing  the  river  with  a  good  bridge 

about  four  miles  and  three  quarters  from  camp  ;  river  some  ninety  feet  wide 4f 

With  little  change  of  the  character  of  the  country,  either  prairie  or  oak  openings, 
easy  rolling  ground  ;  road  passes  on  the  south  side  of  Big  lake — a  deep,  pretty 

lake,  scantily  wooded 5| 

Rolling  prairies,  with  occasionally  a  wet  meadow  in  the  vicinity  of  the  road, 
and  without  any  running  brooks ;  thence  forward  to  camp  on  the  edge  of  a  small 
lake,  half  a  mile  north  of  the  road,  furnishing  wood,  watf-r  and  grass,  all  good ; 
flies  troublesome  to  the  animals  ;  should  have  camped  sooner  had  there  been 
wood  and  water  on  the  road;  soil  throughout  the  day  vegetable  mould,  one  to 

four  feet  in  depth,  resting  on   a  sand  or  gravel  substratum 12f 

23i 

June  7. — Prairie  open  and  unwooded,  or  with  scattering  scrub-oaks;  tamarac 
swamps  several  miles  to  the  right  of  the  road ;  cross  Elk  river  a  second  time,  by 

a  miserable  bridge 4J 

Cross  Elk  river  a  third  time,  by  a  miserable  bridge;  probably  since  replaced  by 
a  good  structure,  as  also  is  likely  at  the  crossing  above;  stream  small  now,  about 

forty  feet  wide £ 

Prairie  to  a  hill  about  half  a  mile  across 5  J 

Prairie  to  a  small  brook  ;  Mississippi  river  has  now  been  within  a  short  distance 

on  the  left  of  the  road  for  some  two  miles 4 

A  wooded  ridge  near  by  on  the  right ;  road  passes  under  this  and  near  the  river, 

to  Mr.  Russel's,  a  short  distance  above  Sauk  rapids 2 

17 

Camp  in  immediate  vicinity  of  Mr.  Russel's;  wood  scarce  ;  water  from  the  Mis 
sissippi  river — grass  fair. 

June  8. — Lying  in  camp,  waiting ;  rainy. 

June  9. — Ferried  across  the  Mississippi  river,  here  some  six  hundred  to  eight 
hundred  feet  wide — boating  the  camp  equipage,  provisions,  &c.,  and  swimming  the 
animals  ;  through  rich  and  fertile  prairies,  variegated  with  the  wooded  banks  of 
Sauk  river  a  short  distance  on  the  left,  with  the  wooded  hills  on  either  side,  the 
clustered  growth  of  elm,  poplar  and  oak,  which  the  road  occasionally  touches  ; 
following  the  "  Red  River  trail,"  we  camp  at  Cold  Spring  brook,  with  clear,  cool 

water,  good  grass  and  wood 18 

June  10. — Cold  Spring  brook  is  a  small  brook  about  ten  feet  across,  flowing 
through  a  miry  slough,  \vhich  is  very  soft  and  deep,  and  previous  to  the  passage  of 
the  wagons  had,  for  about  two  hundred  feet  distance,  been  bridged  in  advance  by 
a  causeway  of  round  or  split  logs  of  the  poplar  growth  near  by ;  between  this  and 
the  crossing  of  Sauk  river  are  two  other  bad  sloughs,  over  one  of  which  are  laid 
logs  of  poplar,  and  over  the  other  the  wagons  were  hauled  by  hand  after  first 
removing  the  loads ;  Sauk  river  is  crossed  obliquely  with  a  length  of  ford  some 
three  hundred  feet — depth  of  water  four  and  a  half  to  five  feet ;  goods  must  be 
boated  or  rafted  over,  the  river  woods  affording  the  means  of  building  a  raft ; 

camped  immediately  after  crossing;  wood,  water,  and  grass  good  and  abundant.        6 

June  11. — Over  rolling  prairies,  without  wood  on  the  trail,  although  generally 
in  sight  on  the  right  or  left,  with  occasional  small  ponds  and  several  bad  sloughs, 
45  f 


354  ITINERARY    OF    ROUTE    FROM    ST.    PAUL    TO    FORT    UNION. 

across  which  the  wagons  were  hauled  over  by  hand  to  Lake  Henry — a  handsome, 

wooded  lake;  good  wood  and  grass;  water  from  small  pond;  not  very  good 

June  13. — Passing  over  rolling  prairies  to  a  branch  of  Crow  river,  the  channel  of 

o  o  r^ 

which  is  only  some  twenty  feet  wide  and  four  or  five  feet  deep;  but  the  water 
makes  back  into  the  grass  one  hundred  feet  or  more  from  the  channel  as  cnrly  in 
the  season  as  when  crossed  by  the  train  ;  goods  boated  over  ;  wagons  by  hand  and 
with  ropes ;  no  wood  on  the  stream ;  several  small  lakes,  not  wooded,  are  on 
either  side  of  the  trail,  with  many  ducks,  geese,  and  plovers  on  them;  encamp  at 
Lightning  lake,  a  small  and  pretty  lake,  sufficiently  well-wooded  on  the  borders 
for  camping  purposes;  good  water,  wood,  and  grass,  and  abounding  with  fish.  . . . 


Junf,  20.  —  Rolling  prairie  country,  with  small  marshes  and  ponds,  to  a  tributary 
of  South  Branch  ;  swift  running  stream,  gravelly  bottom,  fifteen  feet  wide,  three 
to  four  feet  deep  ;  with  care  in  selection,  good  crossing  was  obtained  for  the  wagons  ; 
a  wooded  lake  is  a  short  distance  to  the  right  of  trail  ....................... 

Small  rivulet,  whose  banks  are  marshy  and  soft  .......................... 

Prairies,  with  small  marshes  and  ponds,  to  a  swift-running  brook,  six  feet  wide.  . 

Prairie  to  Pike  lake,  and  camp  of  Lieutenant  G  rover,  a  handsome  lake  of  about 
a  mile  in  diameter,  said.  to  abound  in  pike  ;  well  wooded  on  its  south  border  ;  grass, 
water,  and  wood,  for  camping,  abundant  and  good  ........................... 

Rolling  prairie,  with  knolls  ;  several  ponds  and  marshes  with  an  intervening 
brook  about  six  feet  wide,  and  rather  difficult  of  passage,  from  the  abruptness  of  its 
banks,  to  a  small  brook,  the  outlet  of  a  small  and  partially  wooded  lake  or  pond.  . 

Rolling  prairie,  with  grassy,  swelling  knolls,  small  ponds  and  marshes,  to  Chip 
peway  river  ;  camp  of  odometer  wagon  on  edge  of  river  ;  water  and  grass  good  ; 
no  wood  .............................................................. 

June  24.  —  Crossed  Chippeway  river,  one  hundred  and  twenty-four  feet  wide, 
three  to  six  feet  deep;  goods  boated  over,  and  the  animals  swimming;  wagon 
hauled  through  the  water  by  a  rope  attached  to  the  tongue,  and  with  the  aid  of 
the  mules;  camped  on  Elk  lake,  a  small  and  pretty  lake,  well  wooded,  and  with 
luxuriant  grass  ;  good  water  .............................................. 

June  25.  —  Trail  passes  over  prairies  with  a  rich,  heavy  grass  about  eighteen 
inches  high,  winding  between  wooded  lakes,  to  a  heavy  ravine,  with  a  small  and 
sluggish  rivulet  in  its  bottom  ;  sides  steep,  and  laborious  for  the  wagon  train  ...... 

Prairie  sloping  towards  the  western  branch  of  the  Chippeway  river  —  a  stream, 
when  crossed,  about  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  wide,  three  or  four  feet  deep,  with 
a  marked  current,  and  firm  bottom  ;  no  wood  ............................... 

Camp  on  a  small  lake,  fairly  wooded,  with  luxuriant  grass  and  good  water  ..... 


June  18.  —  Over  rolling  prairie  with  small  pools  and  marshes,  to  a  swift  running 
stream,  about  twenty  feet  wide,  three  feet  deep,  a  branch  of  Chippeway  river; 
heavily  rolling  ground,  with  stony  knolls  and  granite  boulders,  to  White  Bear  lake,         6J 
a  large,  handsome  lake,  with  mingled  open  and  woodland  .....................          -5 

Broken  rolling  ground  to  camp,  a  mile  off  the  Red  River  trail,  and  near  a  small 
wooded  lake  ;  two  small  brooks  have  to  be  crossed  in  the  interval,  and  being  some 
what  deep  and  with  abrupt  sides,  are  troublesome  crossings  ;  to  where  wagons  left 
trail  ..................................................................  (>i 


ITINERARY    OF   ROUTE    FROM    ST.    PAUL    TO    FORT   UNION.  355 

June  27. — Undulating  prairie,  rich  soil,  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  grass, 
with  small  ponds  and  marshes ;  woods  continue  in  sight  a  short  distance  on  the  left 
to  Elbow  lake,  a  well  wooded  take,  of  form  indicated  by  its  name 7f 

Rolling  prairie,  with  two  bad  sloughs,  to  Rabbit  river,  which  is  crossed  with  the 
wagon  with  but  little  difficulty,  where  it  issues  from  a  small  lake;  it  is  a  small 
stream,  but  spreads  out  from  one  hundred  to  three  hundred  feet,  with  marshy 
borders  ;  camp  on  the  small  lake,  with  good  grass,  wood,  and  water 6 

13£ 

June  28. — Rolling  ground,  with  small  ponds  and  marshes,  to  a  small  brook  twelve 

feet  wide ;  the  Bois  des  Sioux  prairie,  a  smooth,  flat  prairie,  without  knoll  or  un-         5^ 
dulation — an  immense  plain,  apparently  level,  covered  with  a  tall,  coarse,  dark- 
colored  grass,  and  unrelieved  with  the   sight  of  a  tree  or  shrub;  firm  bottom,  but 

undoubtedly  wet  in  spring  ;   small  brook  when  the  train  made  a  noon  halt llf 

Same  smooth  prairie  as  above  to  Bois  des  Sioux  river,  sometimes  soft  and  miry ; 
camp  on  river  bank  ;  wood  and  grass  good — river-water  fair;  many  catfish  caught 
in  the  river 10 

27 

June  29. — Cross  Bois  des  Sioux  river ;  river  70  feet  wide,  4  to  7  feet  deep;  muddy 

bottom;  steep  and  miry  banks;  goods  boated  over;  wagons  hauled  through,  light, 
with  ropes ;  bad  crossing,  but  passable ;  smooth,  flat  prairie,  as  on  the  east  side  of 
Bois  des  Sioux,  occasionally  interrupted  with  open  sloughs  to  Wild  Rice  river,  and 
camp  with  \vood,  water,  and  abundant  grass 11 

June  30. — Wild  Rice  river  about  40  feet  wide,  5£  feet  deep,  with  muddy  and 
miry  bottom  and  sides,  flowing  in  a  ca.nal-like  channel,  some  twenty  feet  below 
prairie  level ;  river  skirted  with  elm  ;  river  bridged  from  the  steep  banks,  being  too 
miry  to  sustain  the  animals,  detaining  the  train  but  little  more  than  half  a  d;iy; 
small  brook,  without  wood,  flowing  in  a  broad  channel  cut  out  through  the  prairie ; 
crossing  miry,  but  made  passable  for  the  wagon  by  strewing  the  bottom  with 
mown  grass 2  J 

Firm  prairie  to  camp  on  edge  of  above  small  stream;  good  grass  and  water;  no 

wood  ;  elk  killed  by  hunter 2^- 

4£ 

July  1. — Smooth  prairie  extending  to  Shayenne  river;  sand-knolls,  ponds,  and 
marshes  frequent  as  the  river  is  approached  ;  the  marshes  were  not  miry — firmer 
bottom;  good  wagon  road;  night  encampment  on  bank  of  river;  sufficient  grass 
for  train;  wood  abundant ;  river-water  good  ;  many  catfish  caught  in  river 

July  2. — Shayenne  river  60  feet  wide,  14  feet  deep;  river  had  been  previously 
bridged  by  Red  River  train,  from  the  poplars  and  other  trees  growing  on  the  river, 
and  this  bridge  we  made  use  of  in  crossing  our  wagons ;  camp  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  river ;  water,  wood,  and  grass  good 

July  4. —  Prairie  undulation,  interrupted  with  marshes  and  small  ponds  and  oc 
casional  small  rivulets,  to  Maple  river,  about  25  feet  wide,  3£  feet  deep,  firm 
bottom,  and  easily  passed  by  the  \vagons;  river  tolerably  well  wooded,  and  the 
camp  on  its  edge  is  furnished  with  water,  wood,  and  good  grass 16 

The  rich  black  soil  of  the  valley  of  this  stream  is  noticeable. 

July  5. — To  a  small  stream  30  feet  wide,   2  feet  deep,  clayey  bottom,  easily 

crossed  by  the  wagons;  prairie  high,  firm   and  almost  level  for  some  thirteen  miles, 

becoming  more  rolling  and  with  small  ponds  in  the  last  seven  miles  of  the  march ; 

'  on  the  edge  of  some  of  the  ponds  are  salt  incrustations  ;  camp  on  the  river;  water 

good  ;  grass  good ;  no  wood,  and  the  "bois  de  vache"  is  used  for  fuel 20 


356  ITINERARY    OF    ROUTE    FROM    ST.    PAUL    TO    FORT    UNION. 

July  6.  —  Country  wet  and  marshy  ;  not  a  tree  in  sight  ;  prairie  with  low  ridges 
and  knolls,  and  great  number  of  ponds  and  marshes;  night's  camp  by  a  small 
pond  ;  no  wood,  but  plenty  of  "  bois  de  vache  ;"  grass  good  .......................  20 

July  7.  —  Approaching  the  Shayenne;  country  as  yesterday  for  some  half-dozen 
miles;  bordering  on  the  river  the  ground  is  broken  with  deep  coulees  and  ravines, 
and  to  keep  away  from  them  the  train  kept  at  some  distance  from  the  river,  en 
camping  by  a  small  marshy  pond;  no  wood  ;  plenty  of  "bois  de  vache;"  grass  good; 
water  tolerable  ;  h'rst  buffalo  killed  to-day  .....................................  15 

July  s.  —  Prairie  swelling  with  ridges  ;  descend  to  the  Shayenne,  which  flows 
some  150  to  200  feet  below  the  prairie  by  a  steep  hill  ;  camp  in  the  bottom  of  the 
river;  wood  and  water  good  ;  grass  rather  poor  ;  the  bottom  of  the  Shayenne,  some 
half  a  mile  wide,  is  often  soft  and  miry,  but  when  crossed  by  the  train,  firm  and 
dry  .....................................................................  1  3 

July  9.  —  Cross  the  Shayenne,  50  feet  wide,  3£  feet  deep;  immediate  banks  some 
10  feet  high,  and  requiring  some  digging  to  give  passage  t6  the  wagons  .........  $ 

Prairie  with  swelling  ridges  and  occasional  marshes  to  camp,  to  a  slough  afford 
ing  water  and  grass,  no  wood  ;  buffalo  very  abundant  ........................         6J 

7 

July  ]  0.  —  Prairie  swelling  into  ridges  and  hills,  with  a  frequency  of  marshes, 
ponds,  arid  sloughs;  camp  at  a  pretty  lake,  near  Lake  Jessie;  fairly  wooded,  with 
water  slightly  saline;  grass  scanty,  having  been  consumed  by  the  buffalo;  prairies 
covered  with  buffalo  .......................................................  10 

July  11.  —  Pass  over  the  high  hills  resting  on  the  western  shore  of  lake  of  the 
encampment  and  Lake  Jessie  ............................................  1  i- 

Level  prairie,  with  small  ponds  and  marshes,  to  a  bad  slough,  100  yards  wide 
and  3  feet  deep,  the  passage  of  which  caused  a  good  deal  of  delay,  the  wagons  be 
ing  drawn  through  by  oxen,  by  means  of  long  ropes  reaching  across  the  slough.  .  .  .  4.\- 

Rolling  and  hilly,  with  small  marshes  and  ponds,  to  camp  near  some  small  ponds, 
surrounded  with  knolls;  water  tolerable;  grass  good;  no  wood;  "bois  de  vache" 
plenty;  prairies  covered  with  buffalo,  running  off  several  horses  and  mules  during 
the  day's  march,  which  were  never  recovered  ...............................  4  J 


July  12.  —  Smooth  prairie,  generally  dry;  many  small  lakes  and  marshes  to  be 
seen  on  either  side. 

Night  camp  by  a  marsh,  affording  tolerable  water;  grass  good  ;  no  wood  ;  "bois 
de  vache"  for  fuel  .....  .................................................... 

July  13.  —  Smooth  prairie,  abounding  in  marshy  spots.  Cross  and  recross 
Riviere  a  Jaques,  a  small  stream,  destitute  of  wood,  with  a,  firm  bottom,  and  easy 
of  passage  with  wagons  .................................................  14  £ 

Prairie  to  camp  on  the  river  ;  water  good  ;  grass  fair  ;  no  wood  .............          5£ 

-       20 

July  14.  —  Hilly  and  marshy  prairie,  with  many  small  ponds  ;  camp  by  a  small 
lake  or  pond  ;  water  tolerable  ;  grass  good  ;  no  wood  ...........................  21  J 

July  15.  —  Marshy  prairie,  abounding  with  ponds;  camp  near  a  small  pond; 
water  tolerable  ;  sufficient  grazing  ;  no  wood.  At  this  camp,  were  joined  by  a  large 
band  of  Red  River  half-breeds.  The  buffalo  have  continued  plenty,  and  the 
"bois  de  vache"  has,  without  inconvenience,  been  substituted  for  wood  at  the 
camp-fires  ............................................................  2J 

July  17.  —  But  little  change  of  country  ;  undulating  prairie,  with  a  thin  soil,  and, 
excepting  in  marshy  spots,  a  thin  and  short  grass.  Night  camp  near  a  small 
rivulet  affording  water  and  grass  .............................................  9J 


ITINERARY    OF    ROUTE    FROM    ST.    PAUL    TO    FORT    UNION.  357 

July  18.  —  Shayenne  river,  southern  fork;  forty  feet  wide;  two  feet  deep;  gravelly 
bottom,  and  easily  crossed  ;  river  flows  deep  below  the  prairie,  with  high  banks, 
and  without  wood  ......................................................          l£ 

Rolling,  hilly  prairie  ;  passing  Butte  de  Morale  on  the  right  .................          5 

Undulating  country;  pass  a  long,  narrow  lake  on  the  right,  some  four  and  a  half 
miles  long  ;  night  camp  on  an  extensive,  high  knoll,  with  wood,  excellent  water, 
and  grass  .............................................................  13| 


19.  —  Prairie  with  marshy  spots,  and  ponds,  and  knolls,  as  usual;  seven 
and  three-quarter  miles  from  commencement  of  march;  cross  a  small  brook;  camp 
by  a  small  pond,  with  water  and  grass 

July  20.  —  Rolling  prairie,  with  gravelly,  barren  knolls,  small  marshes  and  ponds; 
cross  Wintering  river,  a  small,  sluggish  stream,  with  a  muddy  bottom,  and  difficult 
of  passage;  water  some  four  feet  deep  at  crossing;  nearly  motionless,  and  one  hun 
dred  feet  wide;  goods  taken  over  partly  in  boat;  wagons  drawn  through  half 
loaded  ;  prairies  covered  with  marshes  and  ponds  to  camp  by  a  small  pond  ;  no 
wood  ;  water  tolerable  ;  grass  good  ........................................ 


Julij  21.  —  Reach  Mouse  river  in  about  six  miles'  march,  and  camp  on  the  edge 
of  a  coulee  making  down  to  the  river  on  its  west  side.  Mouse  river  is  some  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide  and  quite  deep  —  too  deep  to  ford.  It  has  an  inter 
vale  one-half  to  one  mile  wide  ;  flows  deep  below  the  prairie  —  some  two  hundred 
feet  below  the  general  prairie  level;  is  well  wooded.  The  immediate  banks  are 
muddy  and  the  water  is  turbid.  The  valley  of  Mouse  river  is  cut  up  with  deep 
coulees  or  ravines,  reaching  back  from  the  river  on  both  sides  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
miles.  These  deep  coulees  make  the  travelling  very  laborious  and  difficult,  and 
wagons  should  keep  far  enough  distant  from  the  river  to  head  these  coulees,  or  to 
cross  them  where  they  are  shallow  and  offer  little  obstruction.  In  these  bottoms 
are  small  rivulets  making  down  to  Mouse  river,  and  supplying  running  and  cool 
water.  Scattered  trees,  sufficient  for  camping,  are  also  to  be  found  in  them.  Night 
camp  good  in  grass,  water,  and  wood  ....................................  .  ...  16 

July  22.  —  Skirting  the  valley  of  Mouse  river,  crossing  the  coulees  near  their 
heads.  The  prairie  between  the  coulees  is  level  and  dry.  Night  encampment 
near  a  small,  sluggish  stream  making  into  Mouse  river.  Grass  and  water  good  ;  no 
wood.  A  party  from  the  second  and  larger  band  of  Red  River  half-breeds  visit 
this  camp  ................................................................  16 

July  24.  —  Undulating  prairie  country,  with  occasional  small  marshes  and 
ponds.  The  route  follows  immediately  under  the  rolling  knolls  and  hills,  making 
up  the  high  ridge  termed  the  "  Grand  Coteau,"  and  crosses  several  coulees  at  their 
head.  Camp  near  a  small  pond  with  water  and  grass  ;  no  wood  .................. 

July  25.  —  Route  through  an  undulating  and  hilly  country,  approaching  the  Grand 
Coteau  ;  knolls  stony,  and  scantily  covered  with  soil  or  grass.  Night  camp  by  a 
small  lake,  with  grass  and  water  ;  no  wood  ................................... 

July  20.  —  Undulating  prairie,  with  a  smooth  and  good  road,  rarely  broken  by 
marshes  or  coulees.  Night  camp  by  a  small  pond  ;  good  grass  ;  no  wood  ..........  20 

Ju.li/  27.  —  Pass  the  Grand  Coteau  ;  a  collection  of  high,  stony,  and  barren  knolls, 
with  great  numbers  of  small  ponds  lodged  between  the  hills.  About  eleven  miles 
from  the  morning  camp  arc  two  lakes,  between  which  the  train  passes  ;  the 
southern  and  larger  of  the  two  lakes  is  the  source  of  one  of  the  tributaries  of  White 


358  ITINERARY    OF    ROUTE   FROM    FORT    UNION    TO    FORT    BENTON. 

Earth  river.  Camp  near  a  small  pond,  with  rather  scanty  grass;  no  wood.  A 

large  camp  of  the  Assiniboins  in  the  immediate  vicinity  ......................... 

July  28.  —  Country  generally  rolling  and  hilly;  knolls  stony;  night  encampment 
on  a  small  tributary  of  White  Earth  river,  a  sluggish  rivulet,  with  scarcely  a  per 
ceptible  current,  tilled  with  reeds  and  rushes.  No  wood  at  camp,  but  obtained  from 
a  gulley  some  eight  miles  back  on  the  route  ...................................  19  J 

Jubj  29.  —  Through  nearly  level  country  to  a  small,  marshy  lake.  A  wet,  marshy 
ground  lies  on  the  left,  and  about  a  mile  back  from  the  lake,  on  the  route,  are  two 
prominent  knolls  or  hills  .................................................  10 

The  balance  of  the  day's  journey  is  over  an  undulating  and  hilly  country,  the 
route  for  a  great  part  of  the  way  keeping  in  a  valley  between  the  hills.  Camp 
with  water  and  grass  ;  no  wood  ..........................................  13  J 


Jubj  30.  —  Rolling  and  hilly  country,  with  stony  knolls,  throughout  the  day. 
Eighteen  miles  from  camp,  cross  a  small  tributary  of  Muddy  creek,  fifteen  feet  wide 
and  two  feet  deep.  Scattered  trees  are  to  be  found  in  the  coulees  near  this  stream. 
Several  dry  water-courses  were  passed  in  the  course  of  the  day,  which  probably 
in  the  time  of  freshets  are  occupied  by  brooks  connecting  with  Muddy  creek.  Night 
camp,  water  and  grass;  no  wood  ............................................  23<V 

July  31.  —  Rolling  but  not  hilly  country,  with  a  scarcity  of  water.  Ten  miles 
and  three-quarters  from  camp,  water  was  found  in  a  ravine,  in  pools.  To  the  left 
and  farther  east,  the  country  is  more  broken,  and  better  watered.  Night  camp  by 
a  small,  marshy  pond  ;  water  poor;  grass  fair;  no  wood,  and  a  scarcity  of  the 
"bois  de  vache"  ...........................................  .  ..............  20£ 

August  1.  —  Descend  to  the  Missouri  and  arrive  at  Fort  Union.  With  the  excep 
tion  of  some  three  or  four  miles  of  hilly  country  near  the  end  of  the  route,  the 
road  is  remarkably  smooth  and  easy,  passing  over  high  and  hard  prairie.  Camp 
on  the  river-bottom  below  the  fort;  water  from  the  Missouri  —  raiher  muddy;  \vood 
hauled  for  a  short  distance  in  carts  ;  grass  scanty  ;  animals  in  the  day-time  kept 
on  the  hills  bordering  on  the  river-bottom  ......................................  16  J 


Whole  distance  from  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Union 


28.     ITINERARY  OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  FORT  UNION  TO  FORT  BENTON,  BY  LIEUTENANT  DONELSON. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY,  February  18,  1854. 

SIR:  Agreeably  to  your  request,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  itinerary  of  a  route 
for  wagons  from  Fort  Union,  on  the  upper  Missouri,  to  Fort  Benton. 

Thinking  that  the  object  \vould  be  accomplished  by  stating  the  distances  from  point  to  point  of 
those  localities  where  it  would  be  practicable  to  encamp,  and  by  following  this  with  such 
observations  as  seemed  called  for  by  the  nature  of  the  country,  I  have  adopted  that  form  for  the 
itinerary. 

LOCALITIES    AND    DISTANCES. 

No.    1.     6.5     miles  from  Fort  Union.     A  prairie  pond,  destitute  of  wood. 

No.    2.     5.84       k'     Little  Muddy  river. 

No.    3.  15.524     "     A  small,  wooded  stream.    One  or  two  good  camps  between  Nos.  2  and  3,  and 

3  and  4. 

No.    4.     9.437     "     Big  Muddy  river.     Drift-wood. 
No.    5.  11.176     "     A  marsh  near  the  Missouri. 


ITINERARY  OF  ROUTE  FROM  FORT  UNION  TO  FORT  BENTON.  359 

No.    6.  18       miles;  Poplar  river.     One  or  more  good  camps  between  Nos.  6  and  7. 

No.    7.  23.646  "     A  point  on  a  small  creek  riot  far  from  its  entrance  into  the  Missouri. 

No.    8.  15.241  "     Slough,  not  far  from  the  Missouri. 

No.     9.  17.42  "     A  point  on  Milk  river.     At  least  one  good  camp  could  be  found  between 

Nos.  8  and  9. 

No.  10.  13.484  "     To  a  point  on  Milk  river.     Several  good  camps  between  these  points. 

No.  11.  17.62  "     To  a  point  on  Milk  river. 

No.  12.  19.66  "     A  point  on  Milk  river.     Several  good  camps  between  Nos.  11  and  12. 

No.  13.  17.75  "     Cross  Milk  river;  pursue  the  trail  on  the  bluffs  and  descend  to  that  river. 

No.  14.     7.68  "     To  a  prairie  lake,  destitute  of  wood. 

No.  15.  12.4  "     To  second  crossing  of  Milk  river. 

No.  16.  12  "     To  a  point  on  Milk  river. 

No.  17.  15.5  "     To  a  point  on  Milk  river.     One  or  more  good  camps  intervening  between 

Nos.  16  and  17. 

No.  18.  10.8  "     To  a  point  on  Milk  river. 

No.  19.  20.2  "       "         "         "          " 

No.  20.  16  "       "         "         "         " 

No.  21.18  "     Cross  Milk  river,  and  encamp  on  its  right  bank. 

No.  22.     7.46  "     Leave  Milk  river  and  encamp  on  one  of  its  small  tributaries. 

No.  23.  17.6  "     Encamp  on  a  small  stream.     Several  good  camps  between  Nos.  22  and  23. 

No.  24.     6  "A  small  stream. 

No.  25.  19.36  "     Prairie  spring,  destitute  of  wood. 

No.  26.  13.85  "     Cross  Marias  river  and  encamp  on  the  Teton. 

No.  27.     8.7  "     To  a  good  camp  on  the  Teton,  or  to  Fort  Benton. 


377.508  miles  from  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Benton. 

The  road  is  already  distinctly  marked,  as  there  is  an  Indian  trail  from  one  point  to  the  other. 
Mr.  Lambert's  map  shows  all  that  is  essential  concerning  the  direction,  &c.,  of  the  road.  At 
those  points  where  there  is  no  wood  to  be  obtained,  the  reliance  must  be  upon  buffalo-chips. 
Where  the  road  now  pursues  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  and  that  of  Milk  river,  it  would  be  neces 
sary,  in  very  wet  weather,  for  it  to  follow  a  rugged  course  over  the  adjacent  bluffs,  as  the  soil 
of  these  valleys  is  very  retentive  of  moisture,  and  would  probably  at  such  times  be  impassa 
ble.  The  following  streams,  which  there  might  be  some  difficulty  in  crossing  during  freshets,  are 
generally  low  in  the  travelling  season,  viz:  the  Little  Muddy,  Big  Muddy,  Poplar,  Argalia,  Milk 
river,  the  Box  Alder,  Woody  river,  the  Marias,  and  perhaps  the  Teton.  Timber  for  bridging  or 
for  boats  can  be  found  at  all  of  them,  except  the  Big  Muddy.  Here  timber  would  have  to  be 
obtained  several  miles  up  or  down  the  Missouri.  The  grass  is  good,  at  nearly  all  points  of  the 
road,  from  about  the  middle  of  May  to  the  middle  of  August. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 

Second  Lieutenant  of  Engineers. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey. 


360  ITINERARY  OF  ROUTE  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  CADOTTE^S  PASS. 

29.  ITINERARY  OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  CADOTTE'S  PASS,  THE  JOCKO  RIVER,  AND 
CLARK'S  FORK,  TO  WALLAH-WALLAH,  WITH  AN  ESTIMATE  OF  THE  TIME,  LABOR,  AND  COST 
OF  MAKING  A  PRACTICABLE  WAGON  ROAD. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

January  31,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  a  report,  written  at  your  request,  concerning  the  opening  of 
a  wagon  road  from  Fort  Benton,  across  the  Rocky  mountains,  to  Fort  Wallah- Wallah.  The  data 
upon  which  the  report  is  based  has  been  obtained,  partly  from  Mr.  Lambert's  daily  topographical 
sketches  and  notes,  and  partly  from  the  notes  I  made  while  travelling  over  the  country.  As  I 
did  not  view  the  country  with  reference  to  the  construction  of  a  wagon  road  through  it,  of  course 
the  report  is  liable  to  error  for  that  reason.  Notwithstanding,  I  think  the  estimate  is  too  high; 
so  that  the  error,  if  there  be  any,  is  on  the  safe  side. 

The  hypothesis  which  I  have  adopted  is  that,  whether  there  be  one  or  a  number  of  wagons 
starting  from  Fort  Benton,  ten  men,  each  to  have  a  pick,  a  shovel,  and  an  axe,  and  each  to 
be  capable  of  an  amount  of  work  equivalent  to  loosening  and  levelling  fifteen  cubic  yards  of 
common  earth  per  day  of  ten  hours,  will  be  constantly  available  for  work  on  the  road. 

The  report  is  in  the  form  of  a  narrative  of  the  supposed  daily  progress  of  the  wagons;  an 
accompanying  table  exhibits  the  quantity  and  kind  of  work,  and  the  time  required  ibr  its  per 
formance. 

1st  day. — The  wagons  ascend  to  the  high  prairies  north  of  the  Missouri,  and  travel  nineteen 
miles  to  the  Teton,  upon  which  they  encamp. 

2d  day. — They  go  nineteen  miles  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  and  encamp  on  a  prairie  lake 
destitute  of  wood. 

3d  day. — They  travel  fifteen  miles  to  Sun  river,  and  four  miles  up  it,  when  they  go  into  carnp 
on  its  left  bank. 

4f/i  day. — They  ascend  Sun  river  four  miles;  cross  it;  direct  their  course  to  the  south  of  the 
more  northerly  of  the  hills  called  the  "Square  Buttes,"  or  "Big  Knees,"  and  go  fifteen  miles  to 
"Bird-tail  Rock,"  on  "Crown  Butte  creek,"  where  they  encamp. 

5th  day. — They  direct  their  course  to  the  southwest;  cross  Crown  Butte  creek;  cross  Beaver 
creek  and  four  other  small  streams ;  go  a  little  to  the  south  of  a  high  hill  on  the  left  bank  of 
Dearborn  river,  and  encamp  on  that  river;  having  travelled  sixteen  miles.  Part  of  the  work 
would  be  performed  after  the  wagons  halt. 

6th  and  7th  days. — They  descend  to  and  cross  Dearborn  river  ;  travel  nearly  due  southwest ; 
cross  that  river  again  ;  go  along  the  bluffs  on  its  left  bank,  crossing  many  ravines  and  small 
streams,  and  encamp  at  the  foot  of  the  dividing  ridge,  having  made  fifteen  miles  in  two  days. 
The  wagons  would  arrive  at  the  foot  of  the  dividing  ridge  in  time  for  the  workmen  to  cut  away 
the  timber  that  day.  Heretofore  it  has  been  supposed  that  the  inequalities  of  the  ground,  where 
it  would  be  unnecessary  to  remove  obstacles,  have  been  such  that  the  wagons  could  not  move  with 
a  greater  average  speed  than  two  and  a  half  miles  per  hour.  The  rate  of  travel  will  henceforth 
be  reduced  to  two  miles  per  hour. 

8th  and  9th  days. — The  workmen  prepare  an  oblique  ascent  and  descent  of  the  dividing  ridge. 

Wth  and  llth  days. — The  wagons  cross  the  ridge,  proceed  down  the  right  bank  of  the  Black- 
foot  fork  and  encamp,  after  making  twenty-six  miles  in  two  days. 

12th  day. — They  go  ten  miles,  and  encamp  on  the  right  bank  of  the  same  stream. 

13th,  l&th,  and  15th  days. — They  proceed  along  the  Blackfoot  fork ;  crossing  it  several  times, 
but  continuing  mostly  on  the  right  bank,  and  encamp  on  this  side,  after  travelling  thirty-one  miles 
in  three  days.  Before  coming  to  this  camp  the  trail,  as  it  now  exists,  forks — one  branch  crossing 
the  Blackfoot  and  leading  to  Hell  Gate  river.  This  report,  and  the  accompanying  estimate,  refer 
only  to  a  road  down  the  Blackfoot  fork. 


ITINERARY   OF   ROUTE    FROM    FORT    BENTON   TO   CADOTTE'S   PASS.  361 

The  next  eighteen  miles  would  be  along  the  steep  sides  of  hills.  Near  the  end  of  the  eighteen 
miles  is  a  very  severe  hill-side,  composed  mostly  of  sand  and  clay,  and  along  which  leads  a  narrow 
trail.  It  would  be  judicious  to  cross  the  river  before  reaching  this  hill,  in  order  that  it  might 
be  avoided. 

16th  and  17th  days. — The  wagons  would  not  travel,  and  the  laborers  would  go  ahead  to  work 
on  the  road. 

ISth  day. — The  wagons  would  proceed,  while  the  workmen  would  finish  the  latter  part  of 
this  sub-section  of  the  road.  Crossing  the  Blackfoot  just  prior  to  arriving  at  the  severe  side-hill, 
of  which  mention  has  been  made,  the  wagons  halt,  after  travelling  eighteen  miles. 

19th  and  20th  days. — The  workmen  would  open  the  road  to  Hell  Gate  prairie,  and  prepare 
to  recross  to  the  right  bank  of  the  stream. 

21st  day. — The  wagons,  crossing  the  Blackfoot  and  passing  through  Hell  Gate,  would  go  twelve 
miles  to  the  crossing  of  Hell  Gate  river.  Here  the  road  should  fork — the  main  branch  leading 
directly  on  to  Wallah-Wallah.  A  southern  branch  would  make  one  crossing  of  Hell  Gate  river 
and  two  of  the  Bitter  Root,  and  would  lead  to  the  Flathead  village. 

22d  day. — Should  the  latter  route  be  taken,  the  wagons  would  cross  the  Hell  Gate  and  the 
Bitter  Root,  and,  after  making  sixteen  miles,  would  encamp  on  the  left  of  the  latter  river. 

23d  day. — They  would  recross  the  Bitter  Root,  and,  after  travelling  fifteen  miles,  would  arrive 
at  the  Flathead  village.  Thus,  in  twenty-three  days,  lightly-loaded  wagons,  drawn  by  good 
teams,  and  accompanied  by  a  working  party  of  ten  men,  could  travel  two  hundred  and  thirty- 
five  miles  of  the  route,  that  being  the  distance  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  Flathead  village.  It  is 
assumed  that  the  hours  of  travelling  are  from  seven  to  twelve,  and  from  one  to  five.  The  road 
opened  would  not  be  a  good  one,  but  it  would  be  practicable,  and  be  improved  by  use  and  by 
the  work  which  future  travellers  might  apply  to  it. 

To  make  a  good  road — that  is,  one,  the  upper  line  of  whose  cross-section  should  be  horizontal, 
and  which  should  have  no  obstructions  except  steep  grades — would  require  200  per  cent,  more  of 
work.  And  to  make  a  road  which  should  be  good  in  every  particular,  would  require  at  least 
a  period  of  six  months. 

Wagons  leaving  the  Flathead  village  for  Wallah-Wallah,  would  return  by  the  same  road  for 
23.25  miles ;  they  would  then  proceed  to  the  mouth  of  Hell  Gate  river,  cross  it,  and  go  to  a 
point  31.25  miles  from  the  Flathead  village,  where  they  would  enter  the  main  road  from  Fort 
Benton.  Two  days  would  be  required  to  come  from  the  Flathead  village  to  this  point.  We  will 
now  resume  the  main  road  from  Fort  Benton,  at  the  first  crossing  of  Hell  Gate  river,  where  we 
left  it. 

22d  day  from  Fort  Benton. — The  wagons  would,  go  eleven  miles  to  the  entrance  of  the  road 
from  the  Flathead  village,  and  would  encamp;  this  being  a  point  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Bitter 
Root,  where  it  would  be  necessary  to  leave  this  river  in  order  to  reach  the  Jocko.  The  workmen 
would  go  ahead  and  work  for  ten  hours  on  the  road  leading  to  the  Jocko. 

23d  day. — The  wagons  would  not  travel,  and  the  workmen  would  finish  that  part  of  the  road. 
2&th  day. — The  wagons  would  go  seventeen  and  a  half  miles  and  encamp  on  a  fork  of  the 
Jocko.     The  workmen  would  open  the  road  as  far  as  the  crossing  of  the  Flathead  river. 

25tk  day. — The  wagons  go  twelve  and  a  quarter  miles,  and  encamp  in  a  valley  on  the  Jocko. 
The  workmen  prepare  the  crossing  of  the  Flathead.  The  ford  of  this  river  is  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Jocko ;  the  ferry  would  be  below  that  point,  and  wagons  would  pursue  one  or  the  other 
route,  according  to  the  practicability  of  the  ford. 

26th  day. — The  wagons  go  twelve  and  a  half  miles,  and  encamp  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Flat- 
head.  The  workmen  labor  for  ten  hours  on  the  road  down  that  river. 

27 th  day. — The  wagons  go  five  miles,  and  encamp.  The  workmen  continue  laboring  on  the 
road. 

28th  day. — The  wagons  do  not  travel.     The  workmen  open  the  road  as  far  as  Horse  Plain*  • 
46/ 


362         ITINERARY  OF  ROUTE  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  CADOTTE'S  PASS. 

29th  day. — The  \vngons  go  thirteen  and  three-quarter  miles,  and  encamp  on  a  stream  on 
Kamas  prairie.  A  trail  leads  along  the  banks  of  Clark's  fork,  or  the  Flathead  river,  from  the  point 
where  this  road  leaves  it ;  but  though  I  did  not  see  it,  I  do  not  think  it  can  be  better  for  a  road 
than  to  go  by  Kamas  prairie.  The  workmen  this  day  labor  on  the  road  down  Clark's  fork. 

3Qlh  day. — The  wagons  go  eleven  and  a  half  miles  and  encamp  on  Horse  Plain.  The  work 
men  open  the  road  as  far  as  "Big  Rock."  This  is  a  steep  rocky  bluff,  which  rises  to  a  great 
height  and  overhangs  the  river  for  about  500  yards.  The  rock  appeared  to  be  limestone,  and 
would,  I  think,  be  easily  worked.  It  slopes  from  the  river  at  an  angle  of  about  60°.  It  would 
require  about  two  weeks  to  make  a  practicable  road  around  this  hill,  and  wrould  be  necessary  to 
blast  away  a  great  deal  of  the  rock.  Before  determining  how  to  proceed  here,  a  reconnaissance 
ought  to  be  made  to  determine  the  best  way  of  avoiding  this  hill.  As  far  as  I  can  at  present  say, 
I  think  a  raft  or  boat  should  be  made,  and  the  wagons  and  effects  carried  by  water  around  the 
hill. 

The  wagons  should  remain  at  Horse  Plain  until  the  road  be  entirely  opened  to  Thompson's 
prairie ;  and  this  would  require  seven  days,  including  the  preparation  for  the  water  carriage,  and 
excluding  the  work  on  the  road  up  to  Big  Rock. 

37 (h  day. — The  wagons  would  go  nine  and  a  half  miles  to  a  prairie  and  encamp,  where  there 
is  plenty  of  wood  and  water,  and  but  little  grass. 

38th  day. — The  wagons  go  ten  and  a  half  miles,  and  encamp  at  Thompson's  prairie.  The 
workmen  labor  on  the  road  ahead.  As  no  good  spot  for  an  encampment  occurs  between  Thomp 
son's  prairie  and  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille,  the  wagons  should  remain  at  the  former  place  until 
within  a  few  days  of  the  completion  of  the  road  to  the  latter. 

The  Indian  trail,  as  at  present  existing,  leads  mostly  through  dense  forests,  and  over  irregular 
ground,  and  is,  moreover,  obstructed  by  great  quantities  of  fallen  timber.  These  last  obstructions 
would  probably  have  to  be  removed  yearly,  as  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  timber,  in  conse 
quence  of  the  great  height  of  the  trees — it  may  be  from  winds,  and  from  the  forests  being  occa 
sionally  set  on  fire — is  constantly  falling.  It  might  be  expedient  to  make  an  arrangement  with 
the  Indians  by  which  the  fires  could  be  prevented.  I  have  estimated  that  it  would  require  fifty 
days  to  open  the  road  from  Thompson's  prairie  to  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille. 

81st  day. — The  wagons  would  go  fourteen  and  a  half  miles  and  encamp  in  the  woods,  where 
there  is  very  little  grass. 

82d  day. — They  go  twelve  miles  and  encamp  on  Barrier  river,  with  but  little  for  the  animals 
to  eat. 

83d  day. — They  go  ten  and  three-quarter  miles  and  encamp  in  the  woods,  near  some  springs, 
the  grass  being  tolerably  good. 

8&th  day. — They  go  twelve  and  a  quarter  miles  and  encamp  near  the  mouth  of  a  large  stream 
from  the  east.  There  is  here  very  little  grass,  but  I  was  informed  that  a  few  miles  from  the  river, 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  was  a  small  stream  bordered  by  a  quantity  of  good  grass.  This 
could  not  be  reached  but  by  passing  through  an  almost  impenetrable  forest. 

85th  day. — They  go  thirteen  and  a  quarter  miles  and  encamp  on  some  prairie  hills,  without 
water.  Here  they  would  remain  a  day,  procuring  water  by  returning  a  few  miles  to  Clark's  fork. 

87th  day. — They  would  go  twelve  and  three-quarter  miles  and  encamp  on  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille. 

94:th  day. — They  would  go  twelve  miles  along  the  east  side  of  the  lake  and  encamp  on  Pack 
river. 

99th  day. — They  go  fifteen  miles  and  encamp  at  the  foot  of  the  lake. 

104^/4  day. — They  go  twelve  and  a  half  miles,  cross  Clark's  fork,  and  encamp  on  the  left  bank 
of  that  stream. 

lllth  day. — The  wagons  go  about  ten  miles  and  encamp  near  a  pond. 

112th  day. — They  go  twenty  miles  to  a  small  stream  and  encamp  in  the  woods. 

113th  day. — They  go  nineteen  and  a  half  miles  and  encamp  on  the  Coeur  d'Alene  prairie. 


ESTIMATE  ON   ROAD   FROM   FORT   BENTON   TO   FORT   WALLAH  WALLAH.  363 

day. — They  go  nineteen  and  a  half  miles,  cross  the  Spokane,  and  encamp  on  its  left  bank. 

117 tk  day. — The  wagons  go  12.5  miles  and  encamp  on  a  small  stream  in  the  prairie. 

118th  day. — They  go  12.5  miles  and  encamp  on  a  small  wooded  stream. 

ll$th  day. — They  go  12.7  miles  and  encamp  on  another  small  stream. 

121st  day. — They  go  21.7  miles  and  encamp  on  a  branch  of  the  Peluse  river,  after  having 
passed  a  lake. 

123d  day. — They  go  21.2  miles  and  encamp  on  the  same  stream. 

124:1/1  day. — They  go  twelve  miles  and  encamp  on  the  Peluse. 

125/A  day. — They  go  twelve  miles,  cross  Snake  river,  and  encamp  on  its  left  bank. 

126^A  day. — They  go  27.5  miles  and  encamp  on  the  Touchet,  a  branch  of  the  Wallah-Wallah. 
There  is  not  a  particle  of  wood  or  water  between  Snake  river  and  the  Touchet. 

127<A  day — They  go  25.3  miles  to  Wallah- Wallah.  The  entire  distance  from  Fort  Benton  to 
Wallah- Wallah  is  about  650  miles. 

A  more  direct  road  leads  from  Snake  river  to  the  crossing  of  Clark's  fork  than  the  one  described 
above,  and  a  better  road  might  be  had  from  Snake  river  to  Wallah- Wallah  by  going  by  the 
Whitman  mission.  There  would  be  no  difficulty  in  finding  camps  along  the  whole  of  this  route, 
except  between  Thomson's  prairie  and  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille.  There  are  generally  Indians 
with  canoes  at  the  streams  which  would  require  ferrying.  The  estimates  and  statements  I  have 
made  must  be  considered  as  rough  approximations;  they  will,  however,  serve  as  a  guide  in 
case ;  and  before  a  further  reconnaissance  could  be  made,  a  plan  of  operations  for  the  construc 
tion  of  the  road  should  be  adopted.  While  I  do  not  recommend  any  particular  plan  of  operations, 
that  pursued  in  the  report  will,  I  think,  suit  the  circumstances  which  may  govern,  or  at  any  rate 
may  be  modified  to  suit  them. 

My  acknowledgments  are  due  to  Mr.  Lambert  for  the  use  I  have  made  of  his  sketches ;  these 
have  guided  me  in  many  details  which  I  should  not  otherwise  have  recollected. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 

Second  Lieutenant  of  Engineers. 

His  Excellency  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 


Estimate  on  a  road  from  Fort  Benton  across  the  RocJcy  mountains  to  Fort  Wallah-Wallah. 

1st  day.  Fort  Benton  to  the  Teton 10  minutes  of  earth  cutting. 

2d   day.  The  Teton  to  a  lake 10 . .  do do. 

3d    day.  The  lake  to  Sun  river 20.. do do. 

4th  day.  Crossing  the  Sun  river 15.  .do do. 

Crossing  of  a  rocky  hill 20 . .  do . .  to  remove  stones. 

Crossing  of  Crown  Butte  creek,  15.  .do  —  of  earth  cutting. 

Crossing  of  a  fork 15.  .do do. 

2d  crossing  of  Crown  Butte  creek,  15..  do do. 

3d do do 15.. do do. 

5th  day.  4th do do 15.. do do. 

Crossing  of  Beaver  creek 15.  .do do. 

Crossing  of  four  small  streams.  .45.  .do do. 

Descent  to  the  valley  of  Dearborn  river,  3  hours  of  earth  cutting. 

6th   and    2d  descent  to  the  valley  of  Dearborn  river,  in  which,  after  descending  nearly  to  the 
7th  days.       water's  edge,  you  pass  about  150  yards  along  the  side  of  a  hill  sloping  f,  3  hours 
and  30  minutes  of  cutting  in  earth. 


364  ESTIMATE   ON   ROAD   FROM   FORT   BENTON   TO   FORT   WALLAH-WALLAH. 

1st  crossing  of  Dearborn  river,  40  minutes  of  earth  cutting. 
2d  crossing  of  Dearborn  river,  40  .  .do do. 

14  crossings  of  brooks  and  ravines  to  the  dividing  ridge,  15  minutes'  work  at  each, 

including  cutting  away  timber. 

Cutting  away  timber  on  the  east  side  of  the  dividing  ridge,  2  hours'  work. 
8th   and  9th  days.     Ascent  and  descent  of  the  dividing  ridge,  20  hours  of  earth  cutting. 
10th    and    Crossin^  of  seven  brooks  or  ravines,  including  timber  cutting  for  five  miles,  2  hours 
llth  days.       and  30  minutes'  work. 

13  crossings  of  streams,  side-hill  work,  and  cutting  of  timber  for  21  miles,  2  hours  and 

30  minutes'  work. 

3  crossings,  and  side-hill  cutting  in  10  miles,  4  hours  of  earth  cutting. 
12th  day.  3  crossings,  and  side-hill  cutting  in  10  miles,  4  hours  of  earth  cutting. 
13th,  14th,  15th  days.     8  crossings,  side-hill  and  wood  cutting  for  31  miles,  12  hours'  work. 
ICth,  17th,  18th  days.     1  crossing,  and  side-hill  and  wood  cutting  for  18  miles,  26  hours'  work. 
19th    and  20th  days.     1  crossing,  and  side-hill  and  timber  cutting  for  12  miles,  20  hours'  work. 
21st  day.  Crossing  of  Hell  Gate  river,  30  minutes'  work. 
22d  day.  Crossing  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  30  minutes'  work. 
23d  day.  2d  crossing  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  30  minutes'  work. 

2d  day  from  the  Flathead  village,  2  hours'  work  at  the  mouth  of  Hell  Gate  river. 
22d  day  from  Fort  Benton,  10  hours'  work  on  the  road  leading  to  the  Jocko. 
23d,  10  hours'  work  on  the  same  part  of  the  road. 

24th  day.  10  hours  to  open  the  road  to  the  crossing  of  the  Flathead  river. 
25th  day.  10  hours  at  crossing  of  the  Flathead. 
26th  day.  10  hours  on  the  road  down  the  Flathead. 
27th  day.  10  hours  on  the  road  down  the  Flathead. 
28th  day.  9  hours  in  opening  the  road  as  far  as  Horse  Plain. 
29th  day.  10  hours  on  the  road  down  Clark's  fork. 
30th  day.  10  hours  in  opening  the  road  as  far  as  "  Big  Rock." 

The  next  seven  days  occupied  in  opening  the  road  from  the  head  of  "Big  Rock"  to  Thomp 
son's  prairie.  After  that,  50  days  on  the  road  to  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille  ;  7  days  to  open  the  road  to 
Pack  river;  5  days  to  open  the  road  to  the  foot  of  the  lake  ;  5  days  to  open  the  road  to  the  crossing 
of  Clark's  fork ;  8  days  to  open  the  road  to  the  Coeur  d'Alene  prairie ;  3  days  to  prepare  the  road 
as  far  as  the  crossing  of  the  Spokane. 

116th  day.  To  prepare  the  road  as  far  as  Camp  Washington. 
117th  day.  8  hours'  work. 
118th  day.  9  hours'  work. 
119th  day.  10  hours'  work. 
120th  day.  10  hours'  work. 
121st  day.  10  hours'  work. 
122d  day.  10  hours'  work. 
123d  day.  10  hours'  work. 
124th  day.  10  hours'  work. 

126th  day.  10  hours'  work  on  a  portion  of  the  road  which  proceeds  along  the  banks  of  the 
Touchet. 


ITINERARY   OF   ROUTE   FROM    HELL   GATE   TO   CCEUR   D'ALENE   MISSION.  365 

30.  ITINERARY  OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  HELL  GATE  OVER  THE  CCEUR  D'ALENE  MOUNTAINS  TO 
THE  CCEUR  D'ALENE  MISSION,  AND  THENCE  TO  THE  INTERSECTION  OF  THE  ROUTE  GIVEN 
IN  H  29. 

We  left  Fort  Owen  October  2,  1853,  to  proceed  to  a  good  encampment  twenty  miles  down  the 
Bitter  Root  river,  and  await  the  arrival  of  Governor  Stevens.  Descended  the  valley  seven  miles, 
crossing  to  west  bank  of  the  river  at  an  easy  ford. 

October  3. — Crossed  three  small  streams  flowing  from  the  mountains  into  the  Bitter  Root;  the 
valley  on  the  west  bank  from  two  to  five  miles  wide,  covered  with  luxuriant  grass.  The  Bitter 
Root  mountains  rise  some  3,000  feet  on  our  left,  crowned  with  huge  masses  of  jagged  rock. 
Slopes  densely  timbered,  with  larch  and  pine  extending  to  the  river. 

October  4. — Governor  Stevens  arrived  from  Fort  Owen.  River  makes  a  bend  to  the  north 
of  west.  Encamped  on  an  undulating  plain  between  the  St.  Mary's  and  the  Bitter  Root.  The 
plain  affords  good  pasturage. 

October  5. — Proceeded  down  the  valley  ten  miles,  and  crossed  the  St.  Mary's  in  two  fords. 
Visited  an  encampment  of  Flatheads  of  ten  lodges,  under  their  chief,  Victor.  They  cultivate 
wheat,  potatoes,  and  other  vegetables,  and  depend  upon  the  chase  for  meat.  They  reside  chiefly 
at  Fort  Owen  in  comfortable  log  cabins. 

October  6. — The  main  train  passed  to-day,  and  went  into  camp  two  miles  below  us.  Mr.  Lan 
der  left  for  the  Jocko.  Lieutenant  Mullan  came  in  at  four  o'clock,  and  late  in  the  evening  Mr. 
Tinkham  arrived,  having  crossed  the  divide  between  the  Blackfoot  and  the  Jocko  rivers.  It  is 
extraordinary  how  easy  of  passage  the  mountains  are  in  this  latitude.  A  favorite  time  for  the 
return  of  the  Flathead  Indians  from  the  buffalo  hunt  east  of  the  mountains  is  between  Christmas 
and  New  Year's  day.  The  Indians  west  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains  return  usually  in  March. 

October  7. — Moved  camp  at  eight  o'clock,  following  down  the  St.  Mary's  through  an  open 
valley  five  miles  broad,  abounding  in  good  grass.  The  banks  of  the  stream  are  belted  in  by 
timber,  yet  quite  green  and  scarcely  touched  by  frost. 

Making  ten  miles,  the  river  bends  to  the  south  of  west,  the  valley  becoming  narrow.  We 
crossed  a  small  tributary  from  the  north,  and  passed  over  a  heavily-timbered  country,  covered 
with  large  masses  of  volcanic  rock.  We  made  thirty-five  miles,  the  greater  portion  of  which  led 
through  a  fine  prairie. 

October  8. — Continued  down  the  river  through  a  narrow  valley  studded  with  a  heavy  growth 
of  pine  and  larch.  The  mountains  are  high,  and  extend  their  spurs  to  the  river's  banks.  At  one 
o'clock  met  a  band  of  Nez  Perces  and  Coeur  d'Alene  Indians  going  to  join  the  Flatheads  in 
their  fall  hunt  east  of  the  mountains.  Had  a  talk  with  them  in  regard  to  a  proposed  council  at 
Fort  Benton  with  the  Blackfeet.  They  were  delighted  with  the  prospect  of  establishing  a  per 
manent  peace  with  these  Indians,  with  whom  they  have  been  so  long  at  war.  After  a  halt  of 
two  and  a  half  hours,  proceeded  fifteen  miles  through  an  open  pine  forest,  and  encamped  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  river.  The  road  has  been  better  this  afternoon — not  so  hilly,  and  more  open. 
At  encampment  found  Pend  d'Oreille  Indians ;  gave  them  coffee.  In  return,  the  women  gave  us 
cooked  camas  root.  It  is  of  a  sweet,  agreeable  flavor.  Distance  thirty-two  miles. 

October  9. — One  mile  from  camp  we  crossed  the  St.  Mary's,  sixty  yards  in  width,  and  from 
two  to  three  feet  deep.  It  is  clear  and  rapid.  Crossing  spurs  of  the  Bitter  Root  range  at  noon, 
we  came  upon  a  clear  mountain  stream  six  yards  wide.  The  mountains  are  densely  timbered 
with  pine  and  larch,  averaging  two  and  a  half  feet  through.  On  the  banks  of  the  stream  the 
cotton-wood,  willow  and  button-wood  prevail.  The  line  can  follow  the  valley  of  the  river 
without  much  difficulty.  The  river  winds  much,  however,  and  some  sharp  deflections  may  be 
required.  There  is  an  abundance  of  good  building  material.  The  supply  of  timber,  including 
much  fir  and  spruce,  is  inexhaustible ;  and  there  is  a  large  quantity  of  stone,  well  adapted  to  the 
construction  of  sustaining  walls. 


366  ITINERARY   OF   ROUTE   FROM    HELL    GATE   TO   CCEUR   D'ALENE   MISSION. 

In  the  event  of  the  railroad  pursuing  this  route,  any  quantity  of  the  latter  material  can  easily 
be  brought  from  the  mountains.  The  ride  to-day  was  rather  tedious.  We  left  the  valley  to  get 
rid  of  the  undergrowth,  and  took  a  trail  over  the  side  hill,  which  carried  us  up  and  down  through 
woods,  occasionally  obstructed  by  fallen  timber.  Distance  to-day  nineteen  miles. 

October  10. — We  continued  in  the  valley  about  ten  miles,  the  road  leading  through  woods. 
Larch  and  spruce,  and  inexhaustible  supplies  of  limestone  and  marble,  were  met  with.  We 
afterwards  found  the  latter  in  good  quantities  all  through  the  mountains.  We  ascended  the 
dividing  ridge,  and  reached  a  camp  upon  a  small  lake  within  a  mile  of  its  top.  Grass  here, 
and  water  got  with  difficulty.  Good  grass  a  mile  from  camp  on  the  trail  in  each  direction.  The 
lake  to  which  we  were  obliged  to  descend  for  water  is  1,200  feet  below  the  camp.  Distance 
nineteen  and  a  half  miles. 

October  11. — The  rivers  from  the  dividing  ridge,  following  in  opposite  directions,  have  their 
sources  in  lakes  not  more  than  half  a  mile  apart;  the  general  direction  of  the  valley  being  east 
and  west.  We  estimated  our  camp  to  be  2,000  feet  above  the  eastern  base  of  the  mountain, 
and  2,500  feet  above  the  western  base.  The  lake  upon  the  eastern  side  was  about  1,200  feet 
below  us,  and  that  upon  the  western  side  about  700  feet  higher.  In  the  morning  \ve  were  greeted 
with  one  of  the  loveliest  days  imaginable.  The  sky  was  clear,  the  weather  mild  and  genial,  like 
a  morn  in  summer. 

After  striking  camp,  we  ascended  to  the  highest  point  of  the  ridge,  about  one  and  a  half 
mile,  where  we  made  halt  to  enjoy  the  magnificent  view  spread  open  to  us,  which  can  hardly 
be  surpassed  in  any  country.  Far  away  to  the  east  the  peaks  of  the  Rocky  mountains  were 
stretched  out  to  a  great  length;  the  Flathead  lake,  and  the  valley  thence  to  Blackfoot  Pass,  were 
plainly  visible.  Nearly  the  entire  range  of  the  Cosur  d'Alene  mountains  covered  with  evergreen 
forests,  with  here  and  there  an  open  summit  covered  with  grass.  The  numerous  valleys  inter 
secting  the  country  for  miles  around,  the  courses  of  the  many  streams,  marked  out  by  the 
ascending  lines  of  fog,  all  conduced  to  render  the  view  of  surpassing  grandeur.  Descending  the 
ridge,  we  found  the  road  steep,  and  in  eight  miles  we  estimated  our  elevation  less  by  3,500  feet 
than  the  summit  we  had  just  left.  This  brought  us  into  a  valley  filled  with  gigantic  cedars, 
three  feet  in  diameter;  many  were  six  feet,  and  we  found  one  twelve  feet  through.  We  found 
the  larch,  spruce,  and  pine-maple  in  great  quantities  during  the  march,  the  latter  giving  a 
pleasing  variety  to  the  forest  growth. 

About  four  o'clock  we  encamped  upon  the  bank  of  the  stream  which  here  grows  much 
wider.  Made  camp  about  seven  miles  from  the  base  of  the  mountain.  The  day's  march  seven 
teen  miles. 

October  12. — Marched  twelve  miles;  the  road  much  obstructed  by  fallen  timber;  circuitous 
and  bad.  At  half-past  three  o'clock  we  halted  at  a  beautiful  camp,  in  a  valley  where  there 
was  an  abundance  of  good  grass.  Governor  Stevens  and  Antoine  proceed  at  once  to  the  Coeur 
d'Alene  mission,  distant  eleven  miles. 

The  mission  is  an  enviable  location,  upon  a  hill  overlooking  extensive  prairies  to  the  east 
and  west,  stretching  towards  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mountains  and  the  Columbia  river.  On  the 
eastern  prairie  is  an  enclosed  field  of  one  hundred  acres  under  cultivation,  where  were  em 
ployed  thirty  or  forty  Indians — men,  women,  and  children.  We  observed  them  ploughing,  which 
they  executed  skilfully;  others  were  sowing  wheat,  and  others  digging  potatoes.  We  saw  a 
funeral  ceremony  conducted  after  the  Catholic  form,  and  we  were  struck  with  the  harmonious 
voices  of  the  Indian  choristers,  and  their  solemn  observance  of  the  ceremonies.  Their  church, 
constructed  upon  a  plan  designed  by  Pere  Avali,  is  of  the  Roman  Doric  style  of  architecture. 
Pulleys  and  ropes  were  the  only  mechanical  aids  in  its  erection.  It  is  of  hewn  timber  and 
adobe;  ninety  feet  in  length,  forty  in  breadth,  and  sixty  in  height.  The  inside  is  prettily  arranged. 
The  altar  is  supported  by  two  massive  timbers  of  pine  about  four  feet  in  diameter.  We  were 
told  that,  in  erecting  these  pillars,  an  Indian  who  was  holding  one  of  them  became  frightened 


ITINERARY   OP   ROUTE   FROM    HELL   GATE   TO   CCEUR   D'ALENE   MISSION.  367 

and  let  it  fall,  fortunately  without  injury  to  any  one.  The  Indians  have  quite  a  village  of  lodges 
near  the  mission,  and  among  them  half  a  dozen  log  huts. 

October  13. — The  Coeur  d'Alenes  have  already,  under  .the  influence  and  example  of  their 
priest,  made  a  fair  commencement  in  agriculture,  and  will,  with  timely  encouragement  from 
our  government,  live  entirely  by  cultivation,  for  which  their  country  is  so  well  adapted.  They 
are  well  contented,  and  it  is  pleasing  to  observe  habits  of  industry  growing  upon  them.  In  the 
barn  we  saw  their  operation  of  threshing.  Four  boys  rode  as  many  mules  abreast  around 
in  circle,  and  they  were  followed  by  two  girls  with  flails,  who  were  perfectly  at  home  in  the 
business.  I  observed  an  Indian  woman  milking,  and  was  surprised  to  see  her  use  both  hands, 
something  rarely  seen  among  the  Indians.  We  afterwards  visited  the  field.  A  large  fire  was 
burning,  and  around  it  sat  Indians  roasting  potatoes  at  pleasure.  There  appeared  to  be  great 
scarcity  of  proper  implements;  and  in  digging  potatoes  I  noticed  that  many  had  nothing  better 
than  sharpened  sticks. 

October  14. — Determined  to  remain  here  until  to-morrow.  A  Nez  Perce,  Frank,  who  with 
two  men  arrived  yesterday  from  Wallah-Wallah  in  three  days,  and  who  stopped  to  exchange 
horses  for  flour,  says  thirty  wagons  have  crossed  the  military  road  from  Wallah-Wallah  to 
Ni squally.  The  Cceur  d'Alenes,  Pend  d'Oreilles,  Spokanes,  and  Nez  Perces,  meet  together  to 
fish  and  hunt.  They  have  an  ingenious  way  of  hunting  the  deer,  which  is  worth  relating.  A 
large  circle  is  enclosed,  and  upon  the  trees  around  its  circumference  are  attached  pieces  of  cloth. 
Then  the  hunters  enter  the  area  and  start  up  the  deer.  The  deer  are  afraid  to  pass  the  cloth, 
and  thus  kept  within  the  circle,  are  easily  killed.  Last  year  the  Pend  d'Oreilles,  in  one  hunt, 
killed  eight  hundred;  the  Coeur  d'Alenes  more  than  four  hundred.  It  is  said  that  the  Coeur 
d'Alenes  of  St.  Joseph  river  have  finer  lands  and  larger  prairies  than  those  of  this  mission. 

The  distance  from  here  to  Wallah-Wallah  is  six  days,  to  Colville  four  days,  and  four  days 
to  the  Pend  d'Oreille  mission. 

On  the  return  of  the  Indians  from  the  field,  Governor  Stevens  addressed  them  in  kind  and 
encouraging  terms. 

October  15. — We  started  at  eight  o'clock,  after  having  given  brother  Charles  as  many  lariet 
ropes  for  raising  the  timbers  of  the  church  as  we  could  spare.  We  marched  through  an  exten 
sive  prairie  bottom  four  miles  in  length ;  leaving  the  river  to  the  left,  we  took  a  course  north 
of  west  through  a  wooded,  broken  country,  somewhat  obstructed  by  fallen  timber.  We  camped 
on  a  beautiful  prairie,  with  good  grass,  and  here  we  found  nearly  one  hundred  Spokanes,  with 
some  three  hundred  horses,  on  their  way  to  the  hunt.  We  had  already  met  some  forty  Indians, 
Cceur  d'Alenes,  Nez  Perces,  and  Spokanes,  on  the  road.  In  the  evening  the  Spokanes  held 
religious  (Protestant)  services,  and  we  joined  them  to  witness  their  ceremonies.  The  majority 
of  the  Indians  were  on  their  way  to  meet  the  Flatheads  and  other  tribes  to  hunt  buffalo  on 
the  waters  of  the  Missouri.  This  is  a  very  strong  evidence  that  the  snows  will  present  no 
insurmountable  barrier  to  communication  across  the  mountains  in  winter.  Many  of  them  make 
a  distance  of  six  hundred  miles  in  midwinter,  recrossing  the  mountains  in  January,  their  horses 
laden  with  robes  and  meat,  to  their  homes  on  the  waters  of  the  Columbia.  Distance  nineteen 
miles. 

October  16. — We  started  at  eight  o'clock.  The  road  for  the  first  half  of  the  way  through  an 
open,  wooded  prairie.  Then  we  came  into  the  Cceur  d'Alene  prairie,  a  beautiful  tract  of  land 
containing  about  six  hundred  square  miles.  Trap-rock,  projecting  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground  in  spurs,  is  plentiful  as  we  enter  this  prairie.  We  met  on  the  way  a  half-breed,  named 
Francis  Farlay,  on  his  way  to  St.  Mary's  with  his  family.  He  lives  near  Colville,  just  beyond 
the  ferry.  They  were  dressed,  and  had  an  air  of  general  respectability. 

Soon  after  leaving  camp  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake  came  in  view  to  the  south  of  us,  and  eleven 
miles  from  camp  we  struck  it  near  its  western  extremity.  It  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  sur 
rounded  by  picturesque  hills  mostly  covered  with  wood.  Its  shape  is  irregular,  unlike  that 


368  ITINERARY   OP   ROUTE   FROM   CGEUR   D'ALENE   MISSION    TO   COLVILLE. 

given  it  upon  the  'maps.  Its  waters  are  received  from  the  Coeur  d'Alene  river,  which  runs 
through  it.  Below  the  lake  the  river  is  not  easily  navigable,  there  being  many  rapids,  and,  in 
numerous  instances,  it  widens  greatly  and  runs  sluggishly  through  a  shallow  channel.  Above 
the  lake,  I  am  informed  by  the  missionaries  that  it  is  navigable  nearly  to  the  Missouri.  Upon  the 
eastern  side  appeared  a  range  of  hills,  along  the  eastern  base  of  which,  I  think,  the  road  from  the 
mission  to  Wallah-Wallah  passes. 

Leavin»  the  lake,  we  followed  the  river  on  its  northern  bank,  passing  a  camp  of  Coeur  d'Alenes 
occupied  with  their  trout  fisheries.  We  here  witnessed  a  touching  sight,  a  daughter  administer 
ing  to  her  dying  father.  We  encamped  at  a  spring,  with  sparse  grass.  Had  we  gone  two  miles 
farther  we  should  have  found  an  excellent  camp  on  the  river,  and  the  next  morning  some  of  our 
animals  were  found  on  the  very  spot.  Towards  the  latter  portion  of  the  inarch  the  river  runs 
over  a  rocky  bed  of  trap.  Three  miles  before  reaching  camp  we  struck  the  south  trail.  Dis 
tance  thirty-three  miles. 

October  17. — Leaving  camp,  Governor  Stevens,  Osgood,  Antoine,  and  myself,  turned  from  the 
trail  to  visit  the  falls  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  river,  while  Labatt  took  the  train  ahead  on  the  trail 
to  the  Spokane  house;  our  course  was  south  of  west,  five  miles  to  the  Coeur  d'Alene  river  and 
falls.  The  river  here  is  compressed  within  a  narrow  knoll  of  basaltic  rock  forty  feet  high,  form 
ing  a  succession  of  rapids,  which  are  forty  feet  in  height,  presenting  a  natural  barrier  to  the 
salmon.  There  are  two  principal  falls — one  of  twenty  feet,  and  the  other  forming  two  of  from 
ten  to  twelve  feet  each;  in  the  latter  there  is  a  perpendicular  fall  of  seven  or  eight  feet.  For  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  over  the  rough  bed  of  the  rapids  we  estimated  the  fall  at  ninety  to  one  hundred 
feet.  One  mile  below  this  point  we  came  to  the  ferry  crossed  by  Saxton.  There  is  a  small 
Indian  village  here,  and  the  Indians  were  engaged  catching  salmon. 

From  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mission,  crossing  the  river  at  this  point,  and  on  to  Fort  Wallah-Wallah, 
there  is  a  very  good  natural  wagon-road ;  the  fathers  having  transported  some  of  their  effects  by 
this  route  two  years  since. 

Leaving  the  fishery,  we  crossed  the  foot  of  the  great  prairie,  and  over  a  dividing  ridge,  with 
high  and  steep  banks,  entered  an  open  oak  and  pine  plain,  extending  some  eight  miles  to  the 
junction  of  the  Coeur  d'Alene  and  Spokane  rivers.  In  the  plain  in  which  the  Spokane  house  is 
situated  were  two  Spokane  villages.  Here  was  formerly  a  trading-post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company;  but  the  "house"  was  abandoned  many  years  since,  and  but  a  few  scattering  stones 
now  mark  its  foundation.  The  train  we  found  a  mile  below  the  junction  across  the  Spokane, 
and  the  Indians  indicating  a  good  camp  some  distance  beyond,  we  moved  on  eight  and  a  half 
miles,  and  reached  it  at  sundown.  There  was  good  grass  and  plenty  of  water,  and  we  soon 
made  up  a  large  camp-fire. 

The  Indians  report  a  large  party  having  arrived  opposite  Colville,  also  a  small  party  from 
Wallah-Wallah  to  Colville.  We  hear  that  Jack,  Lieutenant  Macfeely's  guide,  passed  this  place 
a  few  days  since,  and  reported  that  the  party  had  a  hard  time. 

We  hear  also  of  another,  probably  Captain  McClellan's  party,  and  the  intelligence  is  confirmed 
of  the  passage  of  the  Cascades  by  thirty  wagons.  Garry,  who  was  with  us  two  hours,  says 
there  is  a  good  trail  from  the  Spokane  house  to  the  Yakima  country.  Made  thirty-two  miles 
to-day. 

October  18. — Left  our  camp  and  the  Spokane  river  at  an  early  hour,  and  taking  a  more  north 
erly  course  six  miles  over  a  succession  of  pine-clad  hills,  reached  a  valley  from  two  to  five  miles 
broad,  affording  good  grass  and  some  arable  land.  Contiguous  to  the  site  of  Yohimakine  mis 
sion,  abandoned  six  years  since  by  Messrs.  Walker  and  Eels,  in  consequence  of  the  massacre  of 
Dr.  Whitman  and  family  at  Wailetpu,  made  a  short  halt  at  noon.  Governor  Stevens  learning 
from  Antoine  that  it  is  twenty-eight  miles  to  Colville,  where  Captain  McClellan's  party  is  reported, 
resolved  to  push  on  and  reach  there  to-night.  At  five  and  three-quarters  he  reached  Brown's, 
who  informed  him  that  the  distance  to  Colville  was  eighteen  miles.  After  accepting  an  offer  of 


ITINERARY   OF   THE   ROUTE    FROM   FORT   BENTON  TO   FORT   OWEN.  369 

some  bread  and  milk,  he  resumed  the  road  with  the  same  animals,  dashing  off  at  full  speed,  eight 
or  nine  miles  an  hour  most  of  the  way,  and  reached  Colville  at  nine  o'clock.  Mr.  McDonald 
received  him  and  his-party  with  great  hospitality.  Captain  McClellan,  soon  over  from  his  camp, 
supped  with  him,  and  chatted  until  a  late  hour  over  the  various  incidents  and  success  of  the 
enterprise. 

The  rest  of  the  party  followed  Governor  Stevens  on  the  morning  of  the  19th,  ferried  their  packs 
across  the  stream  in  a  canoe,  and  descended  a  broad  valley,  in  which  they  found  settlements  of 
half-breeds  and  Indians  living  in  comfortable  log  houses.  They  cultivate  farms  and  gardens, 
have  herds  of  cattle  and  horses  grazing  in  the  bottom,  indicating  much  prosperity.  This  valley 
extends  twenty  miles,  and  will  support  a  large  population. 

Distance  from  camp  on  the  Spokane  to  Colville,  sixty  miles. 

31.  ITINERARY  OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  FORT  BENTON,  BY  THE  NORTHERN  BLACKFOOT  TRAIL,  TO 

FORT  OWEN. 

.  WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  July  31,  1854. 

DEAR  SIR:  I  give  herewith  an  itinerary  of  the  route  which  I  travelled  from  Fort  Benton  west 
ward  to  Wallah-Wallah,  crossing  the  Rocky  mountains  by  a  pass  at  the  source  of  Little  Blackfoot 
river,  and  the  Bitter  Root  mountains  by  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail : 

October  31,  1853. — Ford  the  Missouri  a  short  distance  below  Fort  Benton,  and  encamp 
soon  after,  hid  from  the  sight  of  the  sun  only  by  the  high  bluffs  bordering  the  river.  At 
the  ford  the  Missouri  is  not  far  from  six  hundred  feet  wide,  and  has  a  least  depth  of  three 
feet.  Some  of  the  animals,  missing  the  ford,  got  into  deep  water,  wetting  their  packs 
somewhat.  Camp  on  a  small  stream  making  into  the  Missouri,  with  sufficient  grass  and 
water,  and  a  scanty  supply  of  w ood 2  J 

November  1. — Run  a  nearly  parallel  course  to  the  Missouri,  but  kept  at  some  distance 
from  it,  to  avoid,  as  far  as  possible,  the  deep  coulees  which  cut  its  banks;  road  somewhat 
broken  with  coulees;  but  there  is  little  doubt  that  a  practicable  wagon-road,  with  care, 
could  be  selected ;  cold  and  snowy ;  neither  the  river  nor  the  adjacent  country  could 
be  seen  during  the  day;  camp  on  the  Missouri;  wood  and  water  good,  and  grass  also, 
save  that  it  is  somewhat  snowy 18f 

November  2. — During  the  first  half  of  to-day's  journey  three  brooks  are  crossed,  which 
cut  the  country  in  deep  trenches  and  coulees,  and  the  road  is  much  broken.  The  latter 
half  of  the  day's  journey  is  easy,  and  the  country  is  much  less  broken.  Camp,  at  night, 
on  the  Missouri  at  some  point  above  the  falls.  Our  route  during  the  day  was  too  distant 
from  the  river  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  falls,  but  their  roar  was  distinguished  about 
midday ;  a  cold  day,  with  a  morning  temperature  near  zero ;  soil  good  during  the  day ; 
game  very  plenty ;  several  small  droves  of  elk,  a  few  buffalo,  some  black-tailed  deer  and 
antelope,  and  at  night,  near  our  camp,  large  numbers  of  geese,  swan,  and  ducks 20 \ 

November  3. — Above  the  falls  the  country  bordering  the  Missouri  improves  in  appearance, 
is  less  broken  with  coulees,  and  the  river  is  not  bordered  with  the  steep  bluffs  as  below. 
The  soil  and  grass  are  better,  and  the  banks  lose  their  former  barren  and  bare  look.  A 
river,  the  first  tributary  above  Fort  Benton  on  the  south  side,  which  will  bear  the  name 
of river,  was  crossed  about  ten  miles  from  the  morning  camp.  It  was,  at  the  cross 
ing,  some  eighty  feet  wide,  and  a  ford  was  found  with  difficulty.  In  times  of  high  water 
it  would  be  a  troublesome  stream  to  cross,  and,  as  it  was,  caused  us  a  delay  of  an  hour 
or  two.  Camp,  at  night,  on  the  Missouri,  with  good  wood,  water,  and  grass,  save  that 
the  latter  is  partially  buried  with  the  snow;  cold  and  snowy  during  the  day;  game  plenty  16f 

November  4. — Day's  travel  wholly  on  the  river  border,  or  near  it,  and  the  road  is  good 
until,  at  the  end  of  about  fourteen  miles,  rocky  bluffs,  almost  impassable,  crowd  upon  the 


370         ITINERARY  OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  FORT  OWEN. 

river.  Beyond  this  point  wagons  cannot  proceed  on  their  route.  We  should  have  crossed 
to  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  before  this,  but  the  river  is  quite  high,  filled  with  floating 
ice,  and  dangerous  to  ford.  The  whole  of  the  road  from  Fort  Benton  to  this  vicinity  is 

better  on  the  north  side  of  the  Missouri.     Snowing  during  the  day 17 

November  5. — Occupy  the  day  in  making  a  short  distance  over  the  rocky  bluff's  and  hills. 
These  hills  are  partly  wooded  with  pines  and  other  evergreens.  At  midday  ford  the 
Missouri,  about  three  hundred  feet  wide,  three  to  six  feet  deep;  a  chilly,  snowy  day;  the 
river  filled  with  floating  ice,  and  the  water  freezing  constantly  on  our  clothes  and  the 
animals  after  making  the  ford.  Camp  on  the  Missouri's  west  bank,  at  the  inlet  of  a  small 
stream  fifty  or  sixty  feet  wide,  which  I  suppose  to  be  Dearborn  river;  water,  wood,  and 

grass  good 6 

November  7. — After  gaining  the  camp  of  November  5th,  the  more  difficult  part  of  the  route 
is  passed.  The  route  during  the  day,  keeping  as  near  the  Missouri  as  was  practicable, 
was  hilly,  but  not  difficult  for  pack-animals.  The  Missouri,  in  its  course  coming  from  the 
southward,  passes  out  of  sight  at  the  close  of  the  day,  and  thenceforward  is  not  again 
seen.  Encamp  on  a  tributary  brook  thirty  feet  wide,  with  grass,  water,  and  wood — good 
as  usual,  and  neither  enough  seen  to  be  troublesome.  The  country  is  hilly,  partly  grassed 

and  partly  wooded 11 

November  8. — Route  follows  the  general  valley  on  which  we  encamped  last  night;  ascend 
it  to  near  its  source,  keeping  on  the  hills  bordering  the  stream.  For  the  greater  part  of 
the  day  we  follow  an  Indian  trail,  and  the  road  is  generally  practicable  for  wagons,  though 
very  hilly  and  laborious  ;  a  good  soil,  of  not  much  depth;  the  rock  appears  generally  near 
the  surface;  excellent  pasturage  ground  at  intervals;  camp  on  the  same  stream  as 

yesterday ;  water,  wood,  and  grass  as  usual 18£ 

November  9. — Open,  unwooded  country,  and  good  road  during  the  whole  day.  Encamp, 
at  night,  within  a  short  distance  of  the  summit  of  the  Little  Blackfoot  Pass,  and  by  the  side 
of  a  broad  Indian  trail,  which  we  strike  a  mile  or  two  back.  A  large  Pend  d'Oreille 
camp  is  near  by;  route  during  the  day  perfectly  practicable  for  wagons;  good  camping 
grounds  in  vicinity;  Indians  have  as  many  as  1,000  horses  with  them,  which  are  pastured 

without  difficulty 15 

November  10. — Cross  the  summit  of  the  Rocky  mountains  by  the  Little  Blackfoot  Pass, 
above  two  miles  from  camp.  The  divide  which  separates  the  water  of  the  Little  Black- 
foot  river  from  the  tributary  of  the  Missouri,  finding  its  source  on  its  eastern  side,  is  an 
inconsiderable  hill,  whose  eastern  ascent  can  be  accomplished  with  loaded  wagons  without 
difficulty,  and  of  which  the  western  descent  is  as  gradual  and  easy  as  could  be  desired. 
Descend  the  valley  of  Little  Blackfoot  river,  of  good  width,  gradual  descent,  enclosed  by 
half- wooded,  half-grassed  hills;  broad  trail,  and  road  good  for  \vagons;  good  camping 

grounds  abound 14f 

November  11. — With  the  exception  of  a  small  portion  of  the  distance,  where  the  trail 
on  the  side-hills  was  too  much  inclined,  the  trail  has  been  practicable  and  easy  for 
wagons.  All  these  cares  can  be  avoided,  generally,  by  taking  the  bed  of  the  river  for  a 
short  distance.  Valley  unwooded  for  several  miles  from  the  stream,  excepting  what 
skirts  the  streams  themselves.  Near  the  camp  of  to-night  a  large  fork  comes  in  from 
the  southward,  as  large'  as  or  larger  than  the  stream  which  has  been  followed  from  the 
summit,  and  which  is  now  sixty  or  eighty  feet  wide  and  one  to  two  feet  deep.  Meet 
other  large  bands  of  Indians  with  large  numbers  of  horses,  all  of  whom  find  camping 

grounds  without  difficulty 17£ 

November  12. — A  good  road,  practicable  for  wagons,  throughout  the  day.  For  fourteen 
miles  the  trail  keeps  to  the  interval,  and  then,  to  avoid  a  large  bend  in  the  river,  pursues 
its  same  general  direction  over  the  grand  slopes  bordering  it.  Valley  wide  and  open ;  good 


ITINERARY   OP   THE   ROUTE   FROM    FORT   OWEN   TO   FORT   BENTON.  371 

soil,  and  desirable  for  settlements.  Above  seventeen  miles  from  morning  camp,  cross  a 
tributary,  forty  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  coming  from  the  southward.  Camp  on  the 
river,  now  over  one  hundred  feet  wide  and  three  to  four  feet  deep  ..................  28£ 

November  14.  —  During  the  march  of  to-day  the  valley  is  narrower,  and  the  trail  is  not 
as  good  as  during  the  12th.  The  interval  is  narrow  —  quarter  to  half  a  mile  wide  —  and 
steep;  half-wooded  hills,  of  about  five  hundred  feet  height,  enclose  it.  In  several  places  on 
the  side-hill  the  trail  is  too  much  inclined  or  steep  for  wagons,  and  wagons  would  be  forced 
to  the  bed  of  the  river,  which  is  fordable,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide  and  two 
and  a  half  to  three  feet  deep.  The  trail  crosses  the  river  five  times  during  the  day  ......  19  \ 

November  15.  —  Sixteen  miles  from  camp,  Blackfoot  and  Hell  Gate  rivers  unite.  Of  this 
distance,  about  one  mile,  where  the  trail  passes  to  the  steep  side-hill,  is  impracticable 
as  a  wagon  road.  Wagons  would  necessarily  keep  down  the  interval,  fording  the  river. 
The  ford  of  Blackfoot  river  is  shallow  and  good.  Many  of  the  intervals  during  the  day 
have  been  occupied  with  an  open  pine  growth  ;  cotton-wood,  with  occasional  exceptions, 
is  found  more  or  less  abundantly  skirting  the  river  from  its  source  to  this  point.  At  the 
ford  of  Blackfoot  river  used  by  the  main  train  in  September,  five  and  a  half  miles  below 
the  junction  of  Hell  Gate  and  Blackfoot  river,  my  reconnaissance  connects  with  the  odom 
eter  survey  of  Mr.  Lambert  ....................................................  2£ 

November  16.  —  Proceed  up.  the  St.  Mary's  valley  to  Fort  Owen,  on  the  route  of  the 
odometer  survey,  and  already  as  such  described  —  the  reports  of  Lieutenant  Donelson  ;  a 
broad  and  good  trail  extends  up  the  valley  ........................................ 


Whole  distance  from  Fort  Benton  to  Fort  Owen  is  (miles)  .........................     255 


This  is  the  estimated  distance  by  this  course,  and  a  comparison  of  its  plot  with  the  plotted 
lines  of  the  odometer  survey  shows  it  to  be  about  seven  miles  in  excess.  The  actual  travelled 
distance  would  be  slightly  greater  than  the  length  of  the  courses.  A  comparison  with  Lieutenant 
Mullan's  odometer  survey  from  Fort  Benton  shows  that  my  estimates  in  descending  the  valley  of 
Little  Blackfoot  and  Hell  Gate  rivers  were  much  too  small.  They  are  hence  correspondingly  too 
great  between  the  summit  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  Fort  Benton. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS,  A.  W.  TINKHAM. 

Chief  N.  P.  Railroad  Exploration  and  Survey. 


32.  ITINERARY  OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  FORT  OWEN  BY  THE  JOCKO  RIVER,  FLATHEAD  LAKE,  AND 

MARIAS  PASS,  TO  FORT  BENTON. 

WASHINGTON  CITY,  July,  1854. 

DEAR  SIR  :  I  herewith  submit  an  itinerary  of  the  route  pursued  by  myself  from  Jocko  river 
to  Fort  Benton,  by  way  of  Flathead  lake  and  Marias  Pass. 

October  10,  1853. — Descend  valley  of  Jocko  river  to  near  its  mouth,  fording 
river  several  times;  trail  wholly  on  bottom  lands,  wide  and  practicable  for  wagons.  7 

Trail  forks  near  the  junction  of  Jocko  with  Flathead  river,  one  branch  descend 
ing,  and  the  other  ascending,  the  latter  river.  In  ascending  the  river,  its  valley 
is  wide  and  open — but  little  wooded  in  the  bottom-lands ;  the  ground  is  easy  for 
travelling.  Ford  the  river  with  a  depth  of  about  three  and  a  half  feet,  with  a  ford 
of  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  swift  current,  stony  bottom,  and  low  banks. 
Camp,  immediately  after  fording  the  river,  in  the  midst  of  a  few  tall,  scattered  pines, 
with  good  grass  and  water,  and  salmon  trout  from  the  river 


372  ITINERARY  OF   THE   ROUTE   FROM   FORT   OWEN   TO   FORT   BENTON. 

October  11.— Trail  follows  the  winding  of  the  river,  keeping  on  the  western 
bank.  The  valley  retains  its  general  wide  and  open  character.  The  wood  is 
mostly  confined  to  the  neighboring  hills.  Road  good.  Camp  on  the  river  bank, 
with  an  abundance  of  drill- wood,  pure  water,  and  good  grass 18 £ 

October  12. — At  the  end  of  two  miles  the  river 2 

Through  tolerably  smooth  grass-land  the  trail  crosses  a  small  summit  and  touches 
on  the  south  end  of  Flathead  lake 10 

Follow  round  the  western  border  of  lake,  crossing  over  steep  hills.  Ground 
mainly  unwooded,  but  the  wooded  is  approaching  near  to  the  trail.  Camp  on 
the  edge  of  the  lake,  with  good  water,  wood  and  grass 7f 

19f 

October  13. — Wooded  and  rocky  hills  crowd  upon  the  western  border  of  the 

lake.  The  trail  wrinds  round  these  hills  through  woods  of  pine,  hemlock,  fir, 
spruce,  poplar,  and  is  generally  narrow,  and  occasionally  steep  and  rough.  Camp 
in  a  small  meadow  on  the  opening  lake,  where  the  grass  is  good ;  water  and  wood 
abundant,  and  good  as  usual 12 

October  14. — Sometimes  trailing  through  the  woods,  and  then  taking  to  the 
gravelly  beach  of  the  lake,  we  reach  its  north  bend,  and  emerge  upon  an  open 
prairie  bottom  of  good  soil.  Through  this  prairie  bottom  flows  Flathead  river  and 
some  of  its  tributaries 5$- 

The  trail  touches  the  river  above  the  lake.  Camp  on  a  brook  flowing  into 
Flathead  river,  with  an  abundance  of  wood,  good  water,  and  grass 4£ 

03 

^4, 

October  15. — Trail  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  but  not  in  sight  of  it.  High, 
nearly  level  ground,  partly  prairie,  partly  wood  land,  extends  to  where  Flathead 
river  issues  from  the  mountain  ridge  on  its  eastern  side.  Good  road  to  this  point. .  18 

Winding  on  the  base  of  the  mountain,  the  trail  is  rocky  and  very  rough,  but  after 
a  short  distance  the  mountains  again  recede  from  the  river 1 J 

The  same  nearly  level  upland  is  renewed.  Henceforward,  to  the  prairie  east  of 
the  Rocky  mountains,  the  trail  is  absent ;  always  woods.  Trail  to  camp  much 
obstructed  by  fallen  timber.  Ford  Flathead  river,  three  hundred  feet  wide,  two 
and  a  half  feet  deep ;  pebbly  bottom ;  banks  sixty  feet  high l£ 

Camp  in  the  woods,  without  grass 

23 

October  16. — Journeyed  only  to  get  grass  ;  woods  and  fallen  timber  obstructed 
the  trail.  Encamped  on  a  small  lake,  with  good  grass,  wood  and  water 3£ 

October  17. — Cross  Flathead  river  above  its  forks,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
wide,  two  and  a  half  feet  deep ;  pebbly  bottom ;  steep  banks,  sixty  feet  high.  Mount 
ains  now  close  in  upon  the  river  and  trail,  and  the  valley  continues  narrow  to  its 
source 5^ 

Trail  winds  up  and  down  the  thickly-wooded  slopes  of  the  mountain,  and  is 
generally  very  steep  and  toilsome.  The  river  is  occasionally  broken  with  rapids, 
and  then  again  is  still  and  deep,  frequently  twelve  feet  deep.  Camp  on  the  hill 
side  near  the  river.  Grass  very  scarce 6f 

12 

October  18. — Trail  is  easier  during  the  day.  Woods  of  pine,  spruce,  fir,  larch, 
white  birch,  and  poplar,  fill  the  valley.  Occasional  small  grass  spots,  nearly 
stripped  at  this  late  season,  are  met  with,  but  no  good  camping  grounds  were  found. 
Camp  on  one  of  the  small  grass  spots 11 J 


ITINERARY   OF   THE   ROUTE   FROM   FORT   OWEN   TO   FORT   BENTON.  373 

October  19. — A  short  distance  from  yesterday's  camp  is  a  very  pretty  series  of 
cascades  of  about  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  fall. 1 

The  valley  rises  rapidly  ;  the  brook  is  several  times  broken  with  cascades,  and 
the  night  camp  is  over  seventeen  hundred  feet  higher  than  the  camp  of  yesterday. 
Trail  wooded,  but  not  generally  difficult.  Grass  very  scarce.  Camp  near  the 

brook  ;  wood  and  water  good 13f 

14f 

October  20. — The  valley  suddenly  terminates,  and  we  cross  the  mountain  sum 
mit  in  a  direct  line  from  camp,  a  little  over  four  miles.  A  naked,  narrow, 
rocky  ridge  closes  the  valley,  and  the  trail  passing  it  is  very  narrow,  and  often  only 
sufficient  for  the  feet  of  the  horse 4^ 

Descend  precipitously  into  the  valley  on  the  east  side,  and  camp  under  the 
dividing  ridge,  on  the  edge  of  a  small  pond,  on  whose  banks  rest  the  snow-banks 

of  the  previous  winter.     Grass,  wood,  and  water  good 2 

6| 

At  this  camp  have  our  first  snow. 

October  21. — Trail  good  and  easy,  descending  with  a  tributary  of  Marias  river, 
having  its  source  in  the  small  lake  on  which  was  yesterday's  camp.  Seven  or 
eight  miles  from  camp  the  mountains  end,  and  wood  is  found  only  on  the  borders 
of  streams.  The  trail  ceases  here.  Prairie  extends  thence  to  Fort  Benton.  Camp 
on  the  bank  of  the  tributary  of  Marias  river;  grass,  water  and  wood  good.  Air 
thick  with  snow  during  the  day,  and  several  inches  of  snow  on  the  ground 15 £ 

October  22. — Descend  Marias  river  for  a  short  distance,  and  one  of  the  party 
becoming  too  sick  to  proceed,  camp  again  on  the  stream  ;  water,  wood,  and  grass 
good  Air  very  cold ;  morning  temperature  nearly  as  low  as  zero l£ 

October  23. — Leave  the  tributary  of  Marias  river,  by  which  we  descended  the 
mountain,  and  pass  over  rolling,  smooth  prairie,  fairly  gravel,  with  not  a  rich,  but 
a  tillable  soil.  Camp  on  a  second  tributary  of  Marias  river  as  large  as  the  one  left 
in  the  morning ;  a  brook  thirty  to  forty  feet  wide  and  one  foot  deep,  fringed  with 
cotton-wood,  and  liberally  supplied  with  drift-wood.  This  stream  issues  from  the 
mountain  through  a  wide  and  promising  opening.  Morning  temperature  nearly 
at  zero  ;  ponds  and  smooth  streams  of  water  frozen  over 12 

October  24. — Continue  on  the  same  high,  rolling  prairie,  sometimes  stony  at  the 
surface ;  crossing  two  tributaries  of  Marias  river,  eight  and  thirty  feet  wride  brooks, 
and  at  night  camp  on  a  large  tributary  of  Marias  river,  sixty  feet  or  more  broad, 
well  wooded  with  cotton-wood.  Deer  and  bear  were  near  the  camp.  The  day 
has  been  raw  and  chilly;  the  air  so  thick  with  the  falling  snow  as  to  shut  out  of 
sight  all  objects  not  very  near;  our  course,  in  consequence,  deviating  and  un 
certain „ 21  £ 

October  25. — Very  smooth  even  prairie  throughout  the  day.  After  leaving  the 
brook  on  which  we  encamped  yesterday,  no  running  water  was  passed;  the  beds 
of  some  small  brooks,  and  of  a  shallow  pond,  passed  "during  the  day,  were  mostly 
dry.  Not  a  tree  was  to  be  seen.  Encamp  at  night  under  a  butte,  taken  to  be  the 
"Knee,"  from  its  resemblance  to  that  elevation,  but  actually  over  forty  miles  west 
of  it.  Here  we  had  good  water  standing  in  the  bed  of  a  brook;  no  fuel  save  a  few 
willow-bushes;  the  grass  was  good,  but  cumbered  with  the  snow.  Small  game, 
such  as  antelope  and  brown  bears,  were  frequently  seen.  The  Trois  Buttes  first 
came  into  sight  to-day ^mm 

October  26. — Very  extensive  and  smooth  prairie,  without  wood,  and  with  a  scarcity 
of  water  reaching  to  the  Teton,  on  which  we  camp.  No  water  seen  during  the 


374  ITINERARY   OF   THE    ROUTE   FROM   FORT   OWEN    TO    WALLAH-WALL  All. 

day.  The  Teton  is  wooded  at  intervals  with  the  cotton- wood,  and  is  here  60  to 
150  feet  wide,  and  Hows  in  a  prairie  channel  hid  from  view  except  in  its  immediate 
neighborhood.  At  our  night  camp  the  grass  was  fine,  and  wood  and  water  all  that 
was  desirable 29 

October  27. — Descend  the  Teton;  at  a  distance  of  ten  and  a  half  miles  reaching 
old  camp  of  A.  W.  Tinkham,  of  September  10  and  11,  on  Teton  river  near  the 
Knee 10£ 

Thence  to  Fort  Benton,  in  a  direct  line,  is  estimated  to  be 33£ 

The  same  smooth  and  dry  prairie,  already  noticed,  lies  between  the  Teton  and 
Missouri  rivers.  

The  whole  length  of  this  reconnaissance,  from  Lieutenant  Donelson's  last  camp 
on  Jocko  river  to  Fort  Benton,  is  (miles) 295J 

This  distance  is  simply  estimated,  and  at  its  different  points  will  sometimes  be  found  too  large 
and  sometimes  too  small.  As  a  whole,  it  appears  to  be  in  excess  about  ten  miles.  The  courses 
are  also  more  or  less  erroneous;  much  of  the  trail,  where  passing  through  the  woods  and  fallen 
timber,  in  being  very  serpentine,  and  changing  its  direction  100°  a  rod  or  two,  without  opportu 
nity  for  giving  a  general  course ;  while  on  the  prairie  the  air  was  often  so  thick  with  snow  that 
it  was  impossible  to  retain  a  direct  course. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant,  A.  W.  TINKHAM. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Exploration  and  Survey,  Washington,  D.  C. 


33.  ITINERARY  OF  THE   ROUTE   FROM  FORT   OWEN,  BY  THE   SOUTHERN  NEZ  PERCES  TRAIL,  TO 

WALLAH- WALLAH. 

From  Fort  Owen  westward  to  Wallah- Wallah  the  journey  was  interrupted  with  many  deten 
tions  and  delays ;  a  portion  of  it  was  made  with  snow-shoes  and  packs,  when  our  whole  day's 
march  sometimes  amounted  to  but  two  or  three  miles  ;  and  hence,  in  giving  the  features  of  this 
route,  it  will  not  generally  be  desirable  to  notice  separately  the  journey  of  each  day,  as  heretofore. 

Cantonment  Stevens,  the  winter  quarters  of  Lieutenant  Mullan,  is  on  the  St. 
Mary's  river,  fourteen  miles  above  Fort  Owen.  The  southern  Nez  Perces  trail 
leaves  the  main  trail,  which  ascends  the  St.  Mary's  valley  at  the  forks  of  the  river, 
twenty-six  miles  above  Cantonment  Stevens,  and  traces  the  southwest  fork  to  near 
its  source.  To  the  fork  the  valley  of  the  St.  Mary's  retains  its  open  and  prepos 
sessing  character,  with  good  grazing  and  much  good  soil;  and  a  practicable  passage 
for  wagons  can  be  obtained  with  occasional  divergings  from  the  present  trail 40 

November  21. — The  southwest  fork  of  the  St.  Mary's  is,  a  short  distance  above 
its  union  with  the  main  stream,  above  eighty  feet  wide,  three  feet  deep,  with  a  bot 
tom  of  large  round  stones  of  granite  or  gneiss.  The  trail  is  narrow,  (generally  a 
single  horse-trail;)  is  mostly  on  the  strips  of  bottom-land,  crossing  and  recrossing 
the  stream  at  frequent  intervals,  and  is  not  practicable  for  wagons.  The  valley  is 
narrow,  closed  in  by  high  wooded  hills;  and  the  trail  leaves  it  near  its  end,  above 
where  we  entered  it — a  distance  of. 24 

In  this  distance  snow  had  appeared,  and  finally  was  about  eight  inches  deep; 
and  the  streams  we're  half  frozen.  At  this  season  no  good  camping  grounds  can 
be  found ;  the  grass  is  very  scanty,  and  the  valley  generally  wooded,  so  as  to  be 
very  troublesome  crossing. 

November  23. — After  leaving  the  valley  of  the  southwest  fork  of  St.  Mary's  river, 
the  trail  passes  over  a  high  and  hilly  ridge  to  the  Kooskooskia.  During  the  passage 


ITINERARY  OF   THE   ROUTE   FROM   FORT   OWEN   TO   WALLAH-WALLAH.  375 

snow  covered  this  summit  ridge,  after  a  while  as  much  as  three  feet  deep.  The 
trail  is  steep  and  laborious,  wholly  impracticable  for  wagons,  but  would  not  have 
been  difficult  if  not  covered  with  snow.  As  it  was,  we  were  three  days  making 
our  way  through  the  snow.  The  opportunities  for  camping  all  appear  insufficient 
except  for  very  small  parties  ;  and  it  is  probably  usual  to  make  the  passage  from 
the  St.  Mary's  fork  to  the  Kooskooskia  in  one  day,  where,  on  the  bottom  of  the 
river,  is  a  small  open  and  level  spot  used  as  a  camping  ground,  with  water  and 
wood  abundant  as  usual,  but  not  mucli  grass.  There  was  no  snow. 

November  26. — The  trail  does  not  follow  the  valley  of  the  Kooskooskia,  but,  as 
usual,  the  steep  slopes  of  its  western  sides.  Some  of  these  side-hills  are  grassed, 
and  one  of  them  afforded  us  a  tolerable  camping  ground.  The  Kooskooskia  is  a 
small  stream,  where  crossed,  sixty  to  eighty  feet  broad,  with  a  pebbly  bottom,  and 
flows  in  a  deep,  gorge-like  valley,  wooded  with  pine,  fir,  spruce,  cedar,  hemlock, 
&c.  The  trail  ascends  very  rapidly  for  some  seven  circles,  gaining  a  greater  ele 
vation  of  near  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Five  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
river  the  snow  became  so  deep  that  it  was  impossible  to  force  the  animals  farther  ; 
and  from  that  point,  with  a  portion  of  my  little  party,  I  proceeded  on  foot 5J 

December  7. — Over  high  wooded  ridges  to  some  small  stream  making  to  the 
southwest,  there  may  be  here  a  tolerable  camping  place  in  summer  for  a  small 
trail  party.  The  whole  country  was  covered  with  a  deep  snow  when  we  crossed 
the  stream 10 

December  10. — Continuing  over  the  high  wooded  ridges,  on  this  day,  we  reached  a 
small  stream  running  north,  near  whose  source  is  a  wide  open  spot  nearly  level,  ap 
parently  covered  with  grass,  and  which  I  judge  to  be  in  summer  an  excellent  camp 
ing  ground  for  a  large  train.  Wood  arid  water  are  always  abundant.  The  only 
trouble  is  to  find  sufficient  grass 14 

December  11. — The  usual  character  of  the  country  separates  this  little  spot  from 
the  valley  of  a  small  stream,  affording  another  excellent  camping  ground  for  parties 
of  any  size.  Here  is  a  small  brook,  at  first  twenty  feet  wide,  but  soon  increasing 
its  size,  the  valley  of  which  for  some  five  or  six  miles  continues  unwooded,  with  an 
interval  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  covered  with  abundant  and  good  grass. 
The  hill-sides  afford  enough  of  scattered  trees  for  camping  purposes.  This  is  the 
best  spot  for  camping  between  the  St.  Mary's  valley  and  the  Nez  Perces  country. 
It  was  the  first  spot,  free  of  snow- we  saw  after  leaving  the  Kooskooskia  valley 9 

December  13. — After  following  the  valley  just  described,  the  trail  again  passes  to 
the  hills,  wooded  and  covered  with  snow,  as  usual.  The  trail  is  not,  however, 
difficult  for  a  pack-trail.  Near  the  source  of  a  small  stream,  probably  a  tributary 
of  the  one  reached  December  11,  there  is  another  large  open  spot,  apparently  well 
grassed,  with  a  rivulet  making  down  through  its  centre.  This  is  apparently  a  suit 
able  camping  spot  for  a  large  party,  and  is  nearly  three  miles  long 15 

December  14. — A  hilly  and  tiresome  trail  connects  the  above  spot  with  a  small 
stream  flowing  in  a  deep  narrow  valley,  into  which  the  trail  descends  only  to  have 
again  renewed  the  labor  of  toiling  up  its  opposite  slopes.  A  small  and  inconvenient 
opportunity  will  be  found  for  camping  here 

December  16. — Some  ten  miles  from  this  stream  we  pass  a  high  summit,  whose 
broad  white  top,  conspicuous  amid  the  surrounding  mass  of  dark  wooded  mount 
ains,  had  been  seen  near  a  week  before.  I  suppose  it  to  be  the  highest  of  the 
trail  between  the  Kooskooskia  and  the  Nez  Perces  country.  The  trail  to  this  point 
ascends  rapidly,  and  though  not  difficult,  is  steep  and  tiresome.  On  the  summit  is 
a  broad  open  spot  which  may  afford  grass,  but  probably  not  water.  The  snow 


376  ITINERARY   OP   THE   ROUTE   FROM   FORT   OWEN   TO   WALLAH-WALLAH. 

was  very  deep  there  when  we  crossed  it.  A  few  miles  from  this  open  hill-top  is  a 
small  stream,  which  I  supposed  would  in  summer  afford  a  good  camping  ground. 
There  was  apparently  here  sufficient  grass 14 

December  17. — The  mountains,  with  their  woods  and  snow,  end  with  this  day, 
and  we  emerge  upon  the  open,  high  plateau  of  the  Nez  Perces  country,  through 
which  flow  the  different  tributaries  of  the  Clearwater  river.  A  suitable  camping 
ground  is  found  just  as  the  trail  issues  from  the  woods,  where,  on  the  borders  of  a 
small  stream,  are  water,  wood,  and  grass 13 

Passing  over  a  farther  interval  of  high  open  country,  the  trail  descends  to  the 
bottom-land  of  a  large  tributary  of  Clearwater  river,  a  stream  some  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep 7 

December  24. — On  this  stream  are  the  Nez  Perces.  But  few  lodges  were  near 
the  mountains  at  this  time-.  A  broad  trail  runs  down  the  valley,  but  after  following 
it  for  some  six  miles  we  left  the  river-bottom,  and  by  a  steep  road  up  the  high  hills 
enclosing  the  river,  gained  the  high  plateau  above  it.  A  high  open  plateau  country, 
generally  with  a  good  soil  and  well  grassed,  extends  thence  to  Mr.  William  Craig's, 
whose  house  is  on  the  Lapwai,  about  fifteen  miles  from  the  river;  a  good  camping 
ground  is  to  be  found  on  the  bottom-land  of  a  small  stream,  furnishing  wood,  water, 
and  grass.  The  Lapwai  river  also  affords  good  camping  ground 43 

December  27. — From  Mr.  Craig's  to  Snake  river  is  about  fifteen  miles.  The  trail 
leaves  the  Lapwai  at  the  end  of  four  miles,  and  for  most  of  the  distance,  to  Snake 
river,  passes  over  high  ground.  The  country  is  such  between  the  Lapwai  and 
Wallah- Wallah,  that,  excepting  the  crossing  of  Snake  river,  it  is  probably  practi 
cable  to  use  wagons  in  transportation,  excepting  that  crossing,  the  only  difficulty 
being  in  ascending  and  descending  the  steep  slopes  of  the  deep  valleys  in  which 
all  the  tributaries  of  Snake  river  flow.  Snake  river  was  about  450  feet  wide  when 
we  crossed  it,  deep,  and  with  a  strong  current,  and  is  evidently  at  times  much 
wider  and  deeper  than  this.  It  is  wholly  destitute  of  wood.  Indians  are  gene 
rally  to  be  found  near  by,  who,  for  .a  small  payment,  ferry  over  the  passengers  and 
goods,  and,  if  necessary,  assist  in  getting  the  horses  across.  The  trail  follows 
down  the  bottom  of  Snake  river  for  but  about  seven  miles,  and  then  passes  to  the 
valley  of  a  small  tributary  brook.  Here  is  a  fair  camping  ground.  The  stream  is 
tolerably  well  fringed  with  wood,  and  the  grass  is  sufficient 23 

December  28. — Trail  passes  up  the  intervale  of  a  small  stream;  lined  with  cotton- 
wood  and  willows 5£ 

By  a  steep  ascent  gained  the  high  plains,  on  which  it  continues  to  a  small 
stream,  name  not  known 8 

The  valley  of  this  stream  affords  a  good  road ;  the  brook  is  lined  with  cotton- 
wood  and  willows,  and  all  the  essentials  of  camping  are  found  here 10 £ 

Passing  over  a  high  hill  separating  the  two  streams,  we  gained  the  valley  of  the 
Tchannon  river,  where  was  a  considerable  encampment  of  Nez  Perces.  This 
stream  is  well  supplied  with  cotton-wood.  The  grazing,  owing  to  the  large  num 
ber  of  Indian  horses,  was  very  poor 3 

26f 

December  29. — Trail  crosses  the  Tchannon,  and  ascends  by  a  steep  hill  to  the 
high  plains 1  £ 

High,  smooth,  grand  plains  continue  to  the  Touchet  river 10 

1 1  j. 

-11  2 

December  30. — The  Touchet,  where  we  strike  it,  is  from  30  to  60  feet  wide,  and 
about  3  feet  deep,  pouring  out  its  waters  with  remarkable  rapidity.  It  soon  in- 


ITINERARY   OF    THE    ROUTE   FROM    FORT   VANCOUVER    TO    FORT    DALLES.  377 

creases  in  size,  and  is  not  always  fordable.  A  good  trail  follows  the  valley.  The 
stream  is  well  supplied  with  wood,  and  good  grass  and  water  for  camping  are 
readily  found 32$ 

Leaving  the  Touchet,  with  an  easy  ascent  the  trail  passes  again  to  the  plains ; 
the  soil  becomes  poor  and  sandy,  the  grass  gives  place  to  the  artemisia,  and,  ap 
proaching  Wallah-Wallah,  the  country  is  a  sandy,  wild- sage  desert.  In  this  inter 
val  is  neither  wood,  water,  nor  sufficient  grass 

52 

Total  distance  from  Fort  Owen  to  Fort  Wallah- Wallah 340g 

This  is  the  sum  of  the  estimated  courses.  It  is  probably  no  greater,  and  is  perhaps  a  little  less, 
than  the  actually  travelled  distance.  The  course  plotted  and  compared  with  the  odometer  sur 
vey  appears  to  be  about  ten  miles  in  excess.  Most  of  the  mountain  reconnaissance  was  con 
ducted  during  thick,  snowy  weather,  with  snow-shoes  and  heavy  packs,  and  under  circumstances 
that  rendered  it  impossible  to  obtain  an  accurate  survey. 
I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  W.  TINKHAM. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  N.  P'  Railroad  Exploration  and  Survey, 

Washington,  D.  C. 


34.  ITINERARY  OF  CAPTAIN  MC'CLELLAN'S  ROUTE;  PREPARED  BY  j.  F.  MINTER. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

February  25,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  itinerary  of  the  route  pursued  by  the  party  under 
your  command,  in  an  exploration  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  during  the  months  of  July,  August, 

September,  October,  arid  November,  1853. 

Miles. 
July  18,  1853. — From  Fort  Vancouver  to  camp  Wahwaikee  ;  wagon  road  through 

fir,  with  dense  underbrush ;  road  good  ;  crossed  a  running  creek If 

Camp  on  a  small  plain,  grass  and  wood  good  ;  water  half  a  mile  distant \ 

2J 
July  21. — To  camp  Kolsas,  road  same  as  on  the  18th  ;  crossed  two  small  prairies 

with  good  grass  ;  crossed  small  stream 4J 

Camped  on  a  large  prairie ;  grass  indifferent ;  water  for  animals  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  camp £ 

July  22. — To  camp  Sim-Sik  ;  Indian  trail  passing  for  one  mile  through  Kolsas 
prairie,  thence  through  a  dense  fir  forest,  with  much  underbrush  and  fallen  timber; 
country  flat;  much  labor  to  clear  the  trail  from  here  to  Chequoss  ;  no  water  during 
the  march ;  camped  in  a  small  prairie  near  a  little  brook ;  soil  poor,  grass  good ; 
seven  hours  and  a  half  from  camp  to  camp 6 

July  23. — To  camp  Mesache.  Country  rougher  than  heretofore.  Crossed  two 
boggy  creeks,  and  two  with  fine  crossings  ;  much  fallen  timber  and  brush  ;  timber 
as  before  ;  camped  on  a  small  stream  fifteen  feet  wide ;  grass  in  small  openings  of 
the  forest ;  twelve  hours  from  camp  to  camp 6£ 

July  24. — To  camp  Mankas.  Country  becoming  still  rougher ;  obstructions  on 
the  trail  very  great,  but  rather  less  than  yesterday ;  crossed  a  fine  stream ;  bottom 

thickly  overgrown  ;  soil  good 3 

48  / 


378  ITINERARY    OF    THE    ROUTE   FROM    FORT   VANCOUVER   TO    FORT    DALLES. 

Crossed  a  rivulet  ..................................................... 

Encamprd  on  a  small  prairie  ;  good  grass  ;  water  inconvenient  ;  camp  to  camp 
eiht  and  a  half  hours  ................................................... 


Juty  05.  —  To  camp  Yahkohtl.     Country  becoming  rougher;  obstructions  on  the 
trail,  principally  from  dead  timber  ;  descended  a  very   steep  hill,  with  a   small 
stream  at  the  foot,  a  branch  of  the  Yahkohtl  ................................          3£ 

Crossed  a  rough  divide,  and  descended  a  long  and  steep  hill  to  Yahkohtl  river.  .          l£ 
Passed  over   a  rolling  country,  with  open  woods   on  the    higher  portion  ;  thick 
brush  in  the  bottoms;  camped  on  the  edge  of  Yahkohtl  prairie;  soil  and  grass  good  ; 
good  water  in  running  stream  close  to  camp  ................................          5 

-         91 

J,,i,j  31.  —  To  camp  Chalacha.     Country  rolling;  some  short,  steep  hills;  dense 
underbrush  and  timber  ;  many  fallen  trees  ;  crossed  five  streams  ...............          2f 

Crossed  another,  but  smaller  stream  .....................................          2 

Travelled  up  the  prairie  and  encamped.     Good  water  and  grass  ..............  f 


August  1.  —  To  camp  Spilyeh.  Country  rolling  and  heavily  limbered  with  fir, 
oak,  white  maple,  and  cedar;  crossed  small  rivulet  in  a'  deep  ravine  ............  1 

Crossed  four  small  plains  covered  with  fern  to  the  height  of  the  head  of  a 
mounted  man  ;  commenced  descent  into  the  valley  of  Cathlapoot'l  ..............  3 

This  descent  is  long,  steep  and  dangerous;  the  trail  winding  down  the  narrow 
crest  of  a  ridge,  with  a  precipitous  descent  on  each  side.  Here  we  lost  a  mule, 
killed  by  falling  over  the  steep  side-slope.  At  the  foot  of  the  descent  a  small  spring 
branch,  sandy  bottom,  of  half  a  mile,  and  cross  Cathlapoot'l  ...................  1J 

Pass  over  rough  and  thickly  timbered  country  ;  cross  Spilyeh  creek  ...........          2£ 

Travel  over  a  similar  country,  and  camp  in  a  plain  one  mile  long;  grass  and 
water  good  ...........................................................          2  J 

-       10 

August  2.  —  To  camp  Lakas.  Country  level  and  open,  but  much  heavy  fallen 
timber  ;  cross  small  stream  ..............................................  2f 

Pass  through  small  plain,  covered  with  fern;  descend  steep  hill  and  touch  Cath- 
lapool'l  ...............................................................  2J 

Follow  valley  of  the  stream,  over  stony  beach  ;  current  rapid  ;  bottom  of  large 
stones  ................................................................  1| 

Follow  left  bank  of  the  stream,  and  encamp  in  the  woods  ;  no  grass  ..........  4 

G 

August  3.  —  To  camp  Noompt-nah-mie.     Crossed  the  river  a  few  hundred  yards 
above  camp.     During  the  march  crossed  one  fine  stream,  coming  in  on  the  right 
bank,  three  miles  from  camp;  afterwards  three  spring  branches;  trail  keeps  near 
the  river;  heavy  brush;  in  one  spot  a  fine  grove;  country  barren;  passed  over  a 
tract  of  lava  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  length;  crossed  the  Noompt-nah-mie  near 
its  mouth,  and  encamped  at  the  crossing;  no  grass;  crossing  difficult  in  low  water; 
impossible  in  high  water  ....................................................          8 

August  4.  —  To  camp  Wininepat.     Crossed  a  high,  narrow  ridge,  with  steep 
ascent  and  descent;  small  brook  at  its  foot  on  north  side;  pass  through  open  woods 
of  fir,  cedar,  maple,  and  alder;  crossed  another  rivulet,  and  then  crossed  the  Cath 
lapoot'l  ;  followed  the  stony  beach  half  a  mile,  and  recrossed  ..................          2£ 

The  trail  passes  through  a  small  opening,  and  then  a  new  trail  was  cut  through 
the  thick  brush  and  fallen  timber  for  about  two  miles,  to  avoid  a  very  deep  crossing; 


ITINERARY   OF   THE    ROUTE   FROM    FORT   VANCOUVER   TO   FORT    DALLES.  379 

crossed  two  bad  sloughs;  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river;  no  grass  at  camp; 
crossed  the  animals  to  a  small  island  where  there  was  a  scanty  supply  ..........          4 


August,  5.  —  To  camp  Wahamis;  passed  through  open  pine  woods,  and  crossed 
the  Catblapoot'l  ........................................................ 

Leave  the  river  and  ascend  five  terraces,  and  reach  the  base  of  a  high  ridge  ----          3 

Ascend  the  ridge  by  a  winding  trail,  so  steep  as  to  be  barely  practicable  .......          1 

Des  -end  on  a  gradual  slope  and  over  rolling  country  through  open  pine  woods; 

passing  one  opening  with  good  grass  and  water  ..............................          l 

Thence  through  similar  country  to  camp  in  a  marshy  valley,  with  good  grass 

and  water  ............................................................ 


August  6.  —  To  camp  Yawakamis;  over  a  high,  rolling  country,  through  a  small 
growth  of  fir  and  pitch-pine,  to  a  small  prairie  with  good  grass  and  a  small  creek; 
considerable  fallen  timber  thus  far  .......................................          5^ 

Over  a  high  ridge  to  a  spring  branch,  with  no  grass  ........................  £ 

Cross  a  high  spur,  and  pass  through  burned  and  i'allen  timber,  to  a  bold  creek.  .          2 
Through  open  woods  to  another  creek  ...................................  ^ 

Over  a  ridge  with  level  top,  timber  burned,  to  a  ravine  with  a  small  spring 
branch;  on  this  branch,  a  short  distance   above  the  trail,  is  a  prairie  with  good 
grass  ................................................................  2 

Thence  through  burned  woods,  much  obstructed  by  fallen  timber,  to  camp  in  a 
prairie  with  good  grass  and  water;  this  prairie  is  boggy  in  the  wet  season  .......  f 


August  8.  —  To  camp  Chequoss,  through  level  country  to  a  creek  ............. 

Over  a  rolling  country,  lava  district,  to  a  small  creek  in  a  ravine;  a  little  grass 
near  by  ..............................................................  I 

Ascend  a  high  ridge,  by  a  long  and  gradual  ascent,  to  a  small  pond  with  good 
grass  .................................................................  2 

Through  a  succession  of  small  and  connected  valleys,  with  good  grass,  spruce 
timber  and  no  underbrush,  to  camp  in  a  valley;  grass  good  ;  drinking-water  in  an 
Indian  well  ;  water  for  animals  in  ponds  ...................................  1 


Total  distance  from  Vancouver  to  Chequoss  ..................................        93 

August  11.  —  To  camp  Hool-hool-se;  over  broken  country  covered  with  lava  and 
a  thin  growth  of  pine  and  fir,  with  thick  underbrush,  to  a  small  lake  surrounded  by 
good  grass  and  horse-mint  ...............................................  f 

Ovt-r  similar  country  somewhat  obs  ructed  by  fallen  timber,  to  a  bold  creek.  ...          4 

To  a  small  prairie  with  good  grass  but  no  water  in  the  dry  season  ...........         2£ 

Through  a  beautiful  open  wood  of  excellent  yt  1'ow  pine,  coarse,  long  grass,  and 
light  soil,  underlaid  by  lava,  to  camp  on  a  fine  creek;  grass  good  ...............  4f 

12 

August  12.  —  To  camp  on  Tahk  prairie  ;  over  a  country  like  the  last  of  yester 

day's  march,  to  a  large  stream  —  the  Nikepum  ...............................  3 

Ascend  a  h  gh  plateau  —  travel  over  its  broken  surface,  rorky  in  places,  and  cov 

ered  with  large  timber,  to  a  small  creek  ....................................  2^ 

To  another  creek,  no  grass  near  it  ...........  ............................  £ 

To  another,  no  grass  upon  it  ...........................................  1£ 

Thence  to  camp  on  a  large  prairie,  with  good  grass,  water,  and  soil  ..........  1£ 


380  ITINERARY    OF    THE    ROUTE    FROM    FORT    VANCOUVER   TO    FORT    DALLES. 

August  13.—  To  second  camp  on  Tahk  prairie;  trail  skirls  the  eastern  edge  of 
the  prairie,  which  is  perfectly  level,  covered  with  good  grass,  and  has  good  soil; 
the  timber  skirting  it  is  of  yellow  pine,  free  from  underbrush;  lake  near  north  end 
of  prairie  ;  camped  on  a  stream  rising  from  this  lake  .........................  5  J 

August.  14.  —  Through  open  woods  to  crossing  of  last  creek  ..................  f 

Over  a  rolling  country,  covered  with  open  pine  woods,  to  the  Wa-wak-che  river, 
which  runs  in  a  very  deep  and  narrow  valley  ;  descent  precipitous;  no  grass  in  the 
valley  ;  lava  is  occasionally  met  with  in  the  distance  .........................  4£ 

Make  a  long  and  gradual  ascent  from  the  valley;  pass  over  a  broken  country, 
which  is  covered  with  open  woods  of  yellow  pine  and  oak,  to  a  point  where  there 
are  water  and  grass,  a  short  distance  to  left  of  trail  ...........................  4f 

To  camp  in  a  narrow  valley,  with  a  small  creek  and  good  grass  ..............          3 

-       12| 

August  15.  —  Over  a  country  like  that  of  yesterday's  march,  to  two  springs  with 
good  grass  ............................................................  l£ 

To  a  small  spring  branch,  with  good  grass  ................................          5J 

To  camp,  in  the  woods,  with  a  small  rivulet  and  tolerable  grass  .............          2£ 

9J 

August  16.  —  To  camp  Simkwe  ;  through  country  like  that  of  yesterday,  only 
more  broken  ...........................................................  5 

Over  high  rolling  ridges,  bare  of  timber,  except  here  and  there  a  scrub-oak;  the 
ground  covered  with  lava,  in  fragments,  to  the  Sahpenis  ;  the  valley  of  this  stream 
is  deep  and  narrow  where  we  reached  it  ;  descent  gradual  ....................  3 

Over  a  slightly  undulating  and  open  plain  to  the  Simkwe  creek  ..............          1 

Followed  the  course  of  the  creek  and  camped  upon  it,  with  good  grass  ........          5 

_       14 

August  1  7.  —  To  camp  Atahnam,  over  the  level  bottom  of  Simkwe  valley  ......          4£ 

Cross  a  high,  bare,  stony  ridge,  and  camp  on  the  Atahnam,  with  good  water  and 
indifferent  grass  ;  no  water  on  the  trail  between  the  camps  ....................  2f 


August  20.  —  To  camp  Wenass;  over  a  high  rolling  country,  bare  of  trees,  and 
covered  with  thin  bunch-grass,  to  Kwai-wy-chess  creek  ......................  8 

Over  similar  country,  more  rocky  in  places,  to  Nahchess  river  ;  descent  into  its 
valley  steep  ...........................................................  3f 

Cross  the  wide  and  level  valley  of  the  Nahchess,  pass  the  rolling  dividing  ridge, 
and  camp  on  the  Wenass,  with  good  grass  and  water  —  wood  not  plenty.  .  .......          4J 

16 

Good  grazing  in  the  valley  for  a  large  number  of  animals. 

August  23.  —  To  camp  near  Nahchess  river;  followed  valley  of  Wenass  ;  grass 
good  ;  yellow  pine  begins  ................................................  8 

Leave  valley  of  Wenass,  and  ascend  dividing  ridge  ;  ascent  steep  at  two  points; 
divide  alternately  covered  with  open  pine  woods  and  bare  lava  ................  6 

Descend  from  summit  through  open  woods;  trail  quite  steep  in  places.     En 
camped  in  a  small  ravine,  with  good  water  and  grass  .........................          3 

-       17 

August  24.  —  Descended  into  valley  of  Nahchess.     Trail  steep  in  places  ........  f 

Followed  valley  of  Nahchess;  trail  crosses  the  river  eight  times;  sometimes 
passes  in  the  water  for  short  distances  ;  crossings  bad.  Where  the  stream  flows 
through  the  narrowest  canons,  the  trail  crosses  -the  mountain  spurs,  and  is  very 


ITINERARY   OF    THE    ROUTE    FROM    FORT    VANCOUVER   TO    FORT    DALLES.  381 

difficult,  from  the  steepness  of  the  slopes,  the  loose  stones,  and  fallen  timber.     Camp 

in  a  small  prairie  with  good  grass  .........................................        15£ 

-       16 

August  25.  —  To  camp  on  the  summit  of  divide.  The  trail  crosses  the  river  four 
times;  generally  keeps  to  the  mountain  sides.  It  is  very  bad,  being  frequently 
steep,  rocky,  and  much  obstructed  by  fallen  timber  and  brush.  Before  reaching 
the  divide,  it  passes  three  or  four  small  marshy  prairies,  with  good  grass.  On  the 
divide  are  four  or  five  prairies  of  a  similar  nature  and  larger  size.  Dense  growth 
of  small  spruce  near  the  summit.  Camp  in  small  marshy  prairie,  with  good  water 
and  grass.  Small  pond  in  the  prairie  ........................................  15 

August  27.  —  Returned  to  near  camp  of  25th  .................  „  ................        15 

August  28.  —  Camped  near  where  we  first  reached  Nahchess  on  the  24th  .........        16 

August  29.  —  To  Depot  camp  on  Wenass.  Descended  valley  of  Nahchess.  Trail 
generally  in  the  valley  ;  sometimes  passes  over  high  and  short  spurs  ;  crossed  the 
river  twice.  Trail  generally  good;  rocky  in  two  or  three  places;  good  grass  .....  8 

Left  the  valley,  and  crossed  a  long  high  spur,  passing  by  a  small  lake.  Opposite 
this  spur  the  river  runs  through  a  very  narrow  and  deep  canon.  Descend  to  the 
valley  again  by  a  rocky  ravine  ...........................................  1  £ 

Followed  the  valley,  which  gradually  widens  out;  trail  rocky,  and  constantly 
ascending  and  descending  from  one  low  terrace  to  another  ;  where  we  re-entered 
the  valley,  a  few  small  scrub-oaks  ;  reached  the  trail  where  main  party  crossed  on 
the  20th  ..............................................................  7 

Followed  the  old  trail  to  Depot  camp  on  the  Wenass  .......................         2£ 


September  3.  —  To  camp  at  Ketetas.  Trail  passes  over  a  high  and  rolling  country, 
generally  covered  with  angular  fragments  of  lava.  The  ascent  from  the  Wenass 
valley  is  quite  steep.  No  trees  on  or  near  the  trail.  Descend  through  a  narrow 
ravine,  by  a  gradual  slope,  into  the  valley  of  a  small  stream;  no  grass;  stream  in  a 
canon  ;  a  few  small  willows  and  cotton-woods  border  it  ......................  6J 

Ascend  from  the  canon  through  a  lateral  narrow  canon,  much  obstructed  at  first 
by  fallen  fragments  of  basalt.  Pass  over  a  high,  rolling  country,  and  descend  into 
the  valley  of  Ketetas  by  a  long  ravine  ;  no  water  in  this  ravine  ;  then  follows  the 
valley  of  the  Yakima  ;  crosses  a  small  and  pretty  stream  just  before  reaching  camp 
at  the  crossing,  with  good  grass  and  wood.  Abundant  grazing  for  many  animals  .  7f 

-       14J 

September  i.  —  To  camp  Tsai-it.  Crossed  the  river  at  camp  ;  crossed  three  small 
rivulets  soon  after  ;  pass  along  the  level  valley,  with  good  bunch-grass  all  the  dis 
tance,  and  reach  the  Tehnam,  a  small  but  fine  stream  ........................  8f 

Ascend  a  low  plateau  by  a  ravine  with  a  gentle  slope  ;  pass  over  its  undulating 
surface  ;  enter  open  pine  woods  about  two  miles  beyond  the  Tehnam,  and  again 
come  in  sight  of  the  Yakima,  near  camp.  Camp  on  a  small  prairie,  which  extends 
to  the  river.  Grass  not  good  ............................................  8£ 


September  5.—  To  camp  Ksit-kas.  Trail  passes  through  open  pine  woods,  with  a 
few  small  prairies  ;  cross  the  river  twice,  also  several  rivulets,  and  the  Samahma. 
Valley  level  and  broad.  Camp  in  a  large  prairie,  with  good  grass  and  water  .......  16 

September  6.  —  To  camp  Aiyutas,  on  the  divide  ;  keep  to  the  valley,  through 
woods  with  very  thick  underbrush  ;  cross  one  steep  spur,  descend  into  river  bot 
tom,  and  cross  the  river  ..........................................  2i 


382  ITINERARY    OF   THE   ROUTE   FROM    FORT    VANCOUVER   TO   FORT    DALLES. 

Cross  the  divide  between  Knhchess  and  the  Yahinse,  and  re-enter  the  valley  of 
Yahinse.  The  trail  steep  in  places,  and  very  much  obstructed  by  fallen  timber 
and  brush.  Cross  the  Yahinse  ...........................................  S£ 

Follow  the  valley;  pass  by  the  lower  end  of  Lake  Kitchelus,  ascend  gradually 
for  a  few  miles,  and  then  the  trail  passes  over  the  steepest  mountain  we  encoun 
tered,  follows  its  summit,  and  descends  to  the  little  plain  called  Aiyutas.     Grass 
indifferent  at  camp;  none  on  the  trail  from  camp  to  camp;  water  from  a  small 
spring  ..................................................  .  .............          7f 

-       19 

September  8.  —  Returned  to  camp  of  6th  .....................................        19 

September  9.  —  To  camp  Kahchess;  trail  as  on  the  6th  to  the  first  crossing  of  the 
river.  Follow  valley  of  Kahchess  ;  pass  through  pine  woods  with  dense  under 
brush  ;  cross  the  Kahchess  twice  by  steep  ascents  and  descents.  Encamp  in  a 
small,  boggy  prairie,  near  Lake  Kahchess.  Grass  not  very  good  .................  5^ 

September  10.  —  To  camp  Kleallum  ;  turned  back  on  same  trail  as  far  as  first 
crossing  of  Kahchess  ....................................................  2£ 

Follow  the  heavily  timbered  but  level  valley;  brush  thick  ..................          2J 

Thence  over  a  mountain  ridge  heavily  timbered,  crossing  three  spring  branches 
to  valley  of  Samahma.  Descent  into  this  valley  very  long  and  steep  ............  4 

Follow  the  valley  to  foot  of  Kleallum  :  open  pine  woods  and  bunch-grass;  cross 
Samahma  where  it  issues  from  the  lake  ....................................  If 

Hi 

September  11.  —  To  camp  Tsai-ih.     Descend  the  high  and  undulating  valley  of 
the  Samahma  to  its  mouth,  crossing  the  stream  twice  ;  reach  our  trail  of  the  5th.  .          5£ 
Follow  our  old  trail  to  camp  ___  ........................................          5 


September  12.  —  To  Depot  camp  at  Ketetas;  return  by  our  trail  of  the  4th  .........        17  £ 

September  19.  —  To  camp  Nahnum.  Move  to  the  northern  edge  of  Ketetas  val 
ley;  trail  good,  sometimes  stony;  grass  good  in  places;  crossed  the  Nahnum  twice. 
Encamped  where  it  issues  from  the  hills  ;  grass  not  very  good  ....................  8J 

September  20.  —  To  camp  Skilkantin.  Pass  over  divide  between  Yakima  and 
Columbia,  crossing  the  Nahnum  at  camp;  the  ascent  generally  gradual,  but  very 
long;  cross  two  spring  branches;  trail  stony  in  places;  summit  of  divide  flat  ;  tim 
ber  small  and  dense  near  the  summit,  open  and  large  below  ;  descent  towards  the 
Columbia  very  steep  ;  during  the  latter  part  of  the  march  good  bunch-grass  on  the 
mountain  side,  but  no  timber.  Camp  in  a  deep  and  narrow  valley  ;  good  water 
and  bunch-grass  ;  wood  scarce  .............................................. 

September  21.  —  To  camp  on  Pisquouse.  Crossed  Skilkantin  creek  half  a  mile 
below  camp  ;  follow  the  rapidly-descending  valley,  and  cross  a  steep  spur,  and 
descend  into  valley  of  Columbia  ;  followed  valley  of  Columbia  .................  1 

Crossed  one  creek  four  miles  below  Pisquouse  ;  trail  good  ;  crossed  Pisquouse 
half  a  mile  above  its  mouth.  Camped  on  it  just  above  crossing;  grass  scanty.  ___  7 


September  23. — Follow  Columbia  valley;  trail  keeps  to  a  level  terrace 3 

Crosses  a  difficult  and  rocky  spur  of  hornblende  rock  and  granite.     Beyond  it  a 
small  stream;  then  a  level  terrace,  broken  occasionally  by  less  difficult  spurs  than 
the  last;  crosses  a  second  spur  much  like  the  first,  and  reach  the  En-ti-at-kwu. . .          8 
Follow  a  high,  sandy  terrace,  and  encamp  in  a  thin  grove  of  pitch-pines.    Ground 

stony ;  grass  abundant  a  short  distance  from  camp 1£ 

12* 


ITINERARY    OF   THE   ROUTE    FROM   FORT   VANCOUVER    TO    FORT   DALLES.  383 

September  24. — Keep  the  Columbia  valley.  The  trail  passes  through  the  grove 
of  pines  ;  ground  much  obstructed  by  fragments  of  granite £ 

Crosses  a  very  dangerous  spur ;  the  trail  passes  over  low  rocks  ;  is  very  narrow 
and  tortuous;  high  precipice  on  the  right.  Two  mules  here  fell  over  and  were 
instantly  killed  ;  two  others  were  severely  injured 1 

Pass  over  a  lower  terrace,  at  first  stony,  then  smooth  and  unbroken.  Camp  in 
a  thin  grove  of  pines  ;  grass  good.  The  whole  day  occupied  in  making  this  distance 

of  two  miles £ 

2 

Sip/ember  25. — The  trail  follows  the  river  valley,  over  level  ground  ;  crosses  a 
dangerous  mountain  side,  impassable  in  high  water.  The  trail  is  here  very  nar 
row,  and  passes  over  a  mass  of  angular  stones,  at  a  very  steep  inclination ;  enters 
the  mouth  of  a  ravine,  down  which  runs  a  small  stream £ 

Leaves  the  river  valley;  ascends  the  ravine  with  a  steep  inclination;  reaches  a 
high  ascending  valley  at  right-angles  with  the  river ;  follows  this  valley  and  enters 
that  of  Lake  Chelann,  into  which  it  descends  by  a  gradual  inclination —  „ 3f 

Skirts  the  lake  and  crosses  at  its  source  the  stream  which  issues  from  it 2J 

Passes  over  a  high,  rolling  country,  and  descends  a  very  steep  hill  into  the 
Columbia  valley.  '1  his  descent  is  not  rocky.  Crosses  a  small  stream.  Camp  in 
a  small  sandy  "pocket ;"  grass  good  ;  wood  very  scarce 3£ 

14 

September  26. — Pass  over  the  level  bottom  in  which  we  camped.     Ascend,  in  deep 

sand,  without  vegetation,  to  a  very  high  plateau f 

Followed  this  plateau,  covered  with  good  bunch-grass  ;  pass  one  broad,  deep, 

and  rocky  ravine;  keep  the  prolongation  of  the  same  plateau,  and  descend  by  a 

steep,  sandy  slope  to  the  Columbia  bottom 2f 

Follow  the  Columbia  bottom  on  the  Methow  river  ;  last  mile  among  rocks 8J 

Good  trail  over  a  low  terrace ;  crossed  small  spring  branch If 

Trail  as  before.  Camped  near  an  isolated  point  of  rocks ;  grass  good  ;  wood 

scarce 2£ 

16 

September  27. — To  camp  on  Okinakane  river.     Trail  passes  over  the  high  and 

rolling  valley  ;  crosses  one  deep  and  dry  ravine  ;  thence  touches  the  Okinakane  near 
its  mouth ;  follows  valley  of  that  river ;  crosses  by  a  bad  ford.     Camp  a  quarter 

of  a  mile  above  the  crossing  ;  grass  and  wood  very  scarce 5J 

September  28. —  Cross  the.  Okinakane  at  yesterday's  crossing;  trail  passes  over 
very  high,  sandy  hills,  destitute  of  timber,  and  covered  with  bunch-grass  ;  descends 

into  valley  of  a  small  creek 7J 

Ascend  a  high  and  steep  hill f 

Pass  over  very  high  hills,  covered  with  open  pine  woods;  follow  a  high  and 
narrow  valley.  Camp  on  a  small  spring  branch  in  the  pine  woods ;  grass  plenty, 
but  coarse  and  indifferent 4 

12 

September  29. — To  camp  on  the  Twitsp.    Trail  continued  in  same  valley ;  crossed 

two  small  spring  branches ;  passed  over  a  high  spur  and  descended  into  the  valley 

of  Methow ,  7| 

Followed  the  broad  valley  of  the  stream,  keeping  on  a  terrace  about  thirty  feet 
above  the  water,  and  covered  with  bunch-grass;  passed  one  small  creek;  crossed 
the  main  stream 2f 

Kept  in  the  main  valley,  and  crossed  the  Twitsp  ;  trail  good l\ 


384  ITINERARY   OE    THE   ROUTE    FROM    FORT   VANCOUVER   TO    FORT   DALLES. 

Turned  up  the  valley  of  the  Twitsp,  which  is  very  narrow  at  its  mouth;  passed 
over  a  long  and  steep  side-slope,  over  a  high  plateau  ;  descended  into  the  river- 
bottom  ;  crossed  the  stream  four  times,  and  camped  in  wide  part  of  the  valley, 
which  is  often  a  mere  ravine  .............................................  6f 

-  18J- 
September  30.  —  To  second  camp  on  the  Twitsp  ;  followed  the  valley,  crossing  one 

small  brook;  the  trail  occasionally  passes  along  the  mountain  side,  the  valley  being 
narrow  ;  cross  the  Twitsp  a  short  distance  above  mouth  of  Nai-hai-ul-ix-on  ......  4f 

Left  main  valley;  crossed  a  very  steep  and  rocky  spur,  and  entered  the  difficult 
ravine  of  the  Nai-hai-ul-ix-on;  the  trail  here  is  very  rocky,  and  much  obstructed 
by  bushes  and  fallen  timber  ;  crossed  the  stream  by  a  steep  descent  and  ascent  ___  2£ 

Here  left  the  animals,  it  being  impossible  for  them  to  proceed  farther;  proceeded 
on  foot,  until  the  barometer  proved  the  ravine  impracticable  for  a  railway  ;  turned 
back  on  our  trail,  and  encamped  one  mile  above  camp  of  yesterday  ;  good  grass 
and  wood  .......................  .....................................  7 

-  14 
October  1.  —  On  the  old  trail  to  the  main  camp  below  Forks  Methow  .............        10 

October  2.  —  Followed  our  former  trail  to  where  we  entered  the  valley  on  the  29th 

September  ............................................................         2f 

Kept  the  river  valley,  crossing  two  small  rivulets  ;  during  this  lime  passed  from 
high  to  low  terraces  ;  the  low  ground  often  boggy  ............................          2£ 

Left  the  valley,  and  travelled  over  a  quite  high  and  rolling  country,  destitute  of 
timber,  but  with  good  bunch-grass;  descended  into  the  valley  of  Methow,  and 
crossed  the  stream  .....................................................          2 

Passed  over  a  high  spur,  and  down  into  the  river  bottom  ;  crossed  in  the  same 
way  other  spurs,  some  quite  high  and  steep  ;  camped  in  a  small  pocket  ;  good  wood 
and  grass  .............................................................  5£ 


October  3.  —  To  camp  of  September  2Gth  and  27th  ;  the  trail  leads  over  a  mount 
ain  spur,  and  crosses  the  river  ............................................ 

Pass  under  a  high  hill,  and  over  a  steep  hill-side,  and  cross  a  bold  stream  ......          2 

Leaves  the  valley,  and  passes  over  a  very  high  and  rolling  country,  destitute  of 
timber,  until  it  re-enters  the  Methow  valley  .................................          4 

Keeps  the  valley,  passing  over  some  rough  spurs,  and  reaches  Columbia  ......          2 

Follows  our  old  trail  to  camp  of  September  26lh  and  27th  ..................          4 


October  4.  —  To  camp  on  Okinakane  river  ;  followed  our  trail  of  September  30th 
as  far  as  the  crossing;  then  continued  a  quarter  of  a  mile  on  the  right  bank,  instead 
of  corning  to  the  left  ....................................................... 

October  5.  —  Followed  the  level  Okinakane  valley  ;  crossed  the  river  ..........          2j 

Left  river  valley,  and  followed  an  ascending  lateral  valley  ;  came  opposite  to  a 
small  lake  on  the  right  of  the  trail  .........................................          3£ 

Passed  another  lake  one  mile  long,  with  rough,  high  banks  on  left  of  trail  ......          1 

Reached  a  small  spring  branch,  with  good  water  ...........................          2J 

Passed  summit  of  lateral  valley,  and  descended  by  a  trail,  quite  steep  in  places, 
to  the  Okinakane  valley  ;  camped  in  the  bottom  ;  grass  and  wood  good  ..........          3J 


OctoberG.  —  Followed  the  Okinakane  valley;  crossed  the  river;  crossed  a  bold 
creek  coming  in  from  the  west  ;  crossed  another  fine  creek  on  the  same  side  ; 
camped  on  the  river  bank  ;  grass  good  ;  wood  not  plenty.  The  trail  generally 


ITINERARY   OF   THE   ROUTE   FROM    FORT   VANCOUVER   TO   FORT   DALLES.  385 

good  to-day,  though  sometimes  pnssing  over  spurs  and  high  rolling  plateaux;  grass 

generally  good  in  the  valley  ;  no  large  timber  —  ...........  ........  ............          5| 

O<  l.obcr  1  .—  Ascend  a  high   plateau;  follow  it  for  some  distance;  descend   and 

en  >ss  a  fine  creek  .....................................................          3f 

Keep  the  level,  open  bottom,  and  cross  the  river  ..........................          2 

Follow  the  lower  terrace  ;  cross  there  small  creeks,  and  camp  on  river  bank  ; 

grass  good  ;  wood  indifferent  ;  good  travelling  to  day  .  ........................        10 


October  S.  —  Follow   the  valley,   passing  under  a  high,   steep  mountain;    reach 
Indian  village  at  the  forks  ................  ,  ...............................          2 

Crossed  the  east  fork  ......................................  .  ..........  J 

Follow  the  right  bank,  changing  from  terrace  to  terrace;   trail   alw  iys   irood  ; 

camp  on  river  bank,  crossing  a  small  stream  at  camp;  gnss  far  -uid  wood  good.  . 

_        1  .5 

Octoher  9.  —  Pass  over  a  broad,  L'vl  plateau  to  a  rocks'  spur  ...... 

From  the1  spur,  by  passing  through  a  rn.ir-h,  again  iolio\v  a  u  vcl  ter^ce;  pass 
under  a  high,  gravelly  hill,  and  cross  the  river  ...............................  3f 

Follow  the  stony  bed  and  recross.  passing  between  high,  bluff'  points  of  rock  ----          1^ 

Pass  over  a  very  rough  and  high  country:  camp  on  the  edge  of  a  marshy  shore, 
among  the  rocks;  grass  good  and  wood  abund.mt  ............................  3 


October  10. — To  Great  lake  and  back  to  camp  of  yesterday;  there  being  no 
valley,  the  trail  passes  sometimes  through  marshes,  sometimes  over  mountains,  high 
rolling  terraces,  &c. ;  never  very  rocky;  open  timber  on  the  mountains 26 

October  11. — Turned  back  on  trail  of  9i  h  to  first  crossing  of  river 4^ 

Instead  of  crossing  the  second  time,  kept  on  left  bank,  p  issing  over  rolling  country          5J 

Left  main  valley,  and  followed  an  elevated  lateral  valley ;  re-entered  the  main 
valley;  passed  some  small  lakes  in  the  lateral  valley,  and  crossed  a  creek 4J 

Followed   down   the  main  valley ;    camped  on  lake  shore;   grass  good;  wood 

indifferent ;  trail  very  good  to-day If  • 

15J 

October  12. — To  camp  Kah-loo- sheep ;  followed  the  edge  of  the  lake  ;  trail  gen 
erally  very  good ,. , 3f 

Crossed  a  high  ridge  into  the  valley  of  a  small  stream ;  ascend  this  valley  to  near 
camp,  then  pass  over  very  rolling  and  terraced  country;  recross  the  same  stream, 
and  camp  upon  it;  grass  and  wood  good;  trail  has  ascended  gradually  to  a  very 
high  elevation , 5f 


October  13.  —  Pass  over  a  high,  rolling  country;  patches  of  larch  timber  here  and 
there;  cross  a  summit  and  a  small  stream;  descend  into  the  valley  of  the  iSiyakan  7J 

Ascend  a  high  and  steep  hill  ;  pass  along  a  high  plateau  ;  cross  two  small 
branches;  descend  into  the  valley  of  the  Siyakan,  and  cross  it  near  its  mouth  .....  4£ 

Follow  the  lower  terrace  of  the  Nehoialpitkwu,  passing  through  open  woods; 
cross  that  stream,  and  camp  on  the  left  bank;  grass  and  wood  good;  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  steep  hills,  the  travelling  to-day  was  excellent  ...............  1  J 

-       13 

October  14.  —  Trail  generally   keeps   the  valley;  occasionally  passes  over  high 

spurs  and  plateaux;  woods  open;  cross  the  river  four  times;  cross  two  small 
branches  on  the  right  bank  and  four  on  the  left  ;  camp  on  the  river  bank,  with  good 
grass  ;  trail  good  .......................................................... 

49  / 


386  ITINERARY    OF    THE   ROUTE   FROM   FORT   VANCOUVER   TO    FORT    DALLES. 

October  15.  —  Trail  and  country  like  those  of  yesterday  —  not  quite  so  good  ; 
crossed  the  river  twice  ;  camp  on  a  high  hank  ;  grass  pretty  good  ................. 

October  16.  —  The  valley  being  very  narrow  and  thickly  wooded  to  day,  the  trail 
is  worse.  It  passes  over  several  high  and  stony  spurs  ;  follows  the  bed  of  the 
stream  in  places;  crosses  the  river  four  times;  camp  in  a  low  bottom  surrounded 
by  mountains;  grass  poor  ;  trail  b;id  .........  ................................ 

Ocuibtr  17.  —  Camp  opposite  Colville.  Trail  passes  over  one  high,  steep  ridge, 
then  over  a  high,  rolling,  and  limbered  country,  to  the  Columbia  ;  cross  the  Nehoi- 
alpitkwu  once  ;  trail  better  than  yesterday  ;  scarcely  any  grass  to  be  found  ......... 

October  IS.  —  Crossed  the  Columbia  with  all  our  animals  and  baggage  in  perfect 
safety  ;  camped  on  a  level  plateau  half  a  mile  above  the  crossing  ;  good  grass  and 
wood  ...................................................................  1 

October  22.  —  To  camp  Schlovvskan.  Left  Columbia  valley  behind  Fort  Colville; 
ascended  the  valley  of  Mill  creek;  followed  that  valley  ;  crossed  the  main  creek 
twice,  by  deep  fords;  crossed  and  camped  upon  a  large  branch;  camp  in  the  open 
woods,  with  fair  grass  ;  trail  excellent  ........................................  14  J 

October  23.  —  To  camp  Kitsemawhep.  Keep  to  the  valley  ;  the  trail  crosses 
some  low  spurs,  and  is  in  places  rather  boggy;  on  the  whole,  it  is  good.  Crossed 
one  very  bad  branch  about  a  mile  before  reaching  camp;  repaired  an  old  bridge 
for  the  pack-animals;  camped  on  the  main  stream,  which  is  narrow  and  swimming; 
crossed  the  packs  in  a  canoe  ;  "  swam"  the  animals  .............................  13£ 

October  24.  —  To  camp  Loichin.  Heavy  snow-storm  during  the  last  night  and 
this  day;  kept  the  open,  boggy  valley  for  one  and  a  half  mile,  then  entered  the  open 
pine  woods,  and  passed  over  roll:ng  country;  camped  on  the  edge  of  a  small  open 
valley;  animals  suffered  for  want  of  grass,  it  being  covered  with  snow;  no  water; 
used  melted  snow  ......................................  ,  ..................  8  J 

October  25.  —  To  Chunakane  Mission.  Passed  through  a  rolling  country,  covered 
with  open  pines,  for  nine  miles;  then  entered  the  open  and  level  valley  of  the  Chun 
akane,  and  followed  it  down  to  the  Old  Mission  ;  trail  excellent.  Animals  here 
picked  a  little  grass.  Crossed  several  small  streams  to-day  ......................  14f 

October  26.  —  To  camp  Helse-de-lite.  Passed  through  rolling  country,  covered 
with  open  pine  woods  ;  crossed  the  Spokane  river  by  a  good  but  winding  ford.  ...  5 

Ascended  from  the  valley  by  a  ravine,  and  came  out  upon  the  Spokane  plain  ; 
first  two  miles  through  open  pine  —  the  rest  over  an  open,  rolling  country  ;  passed 
one  small  lake,  on  left  of  trail;  camp  in  a  deep  and  narrow  valley,  with  good 
grass  on  the  plateau  ...........  ........................................  6 


October  30.  —  To  Sul-ilt-kwu.  Ascended  from  the  valley  of  our  camp  to  the 
plateau.  Pass  over  a  high  rolling  country,  with  occasional  ravines  and  narrow 
strips  of  pine  timber.  Cross  a  very  deep  and  boggy  stream  ................... 

Travel  over  perfectly  open  and  slightly  rolling  country;  pass  over  a  rocky  ridge 
near  camp;  camp  on  a  small  running  stream,  with  good  grass  and  poor  wood.  ___ 


November  1. — To  camp  Sm-sic-hon-iltn.  Passing  over  an  undulating  country, 
covered  with  good  grass,  and  broken  by  long,  swelling  ridges.  In  places  the 
ground  is  covered  with  lava;  and  many  small,  circular  ponds  occur.  Pass  by  a 
long  lake 2£ 

Country  as  before,  without  the  ponds;  camp  on  a  small  stream;  good  grass  in 
the  vicinity ;  good  fire-wood ;  trail  very  excellent 6f 


ITINERARY   OF   THE.  ROUTE   FROM   FORT   VANCOUVER   TO   FORT   DALLES.  387 

November  2. — To  camp  St-kahp.  Travelled  over  smooth  country,  between  long, 
high,  and  smooth  hills;  passed  by  a  small  lake;  crossed  a  small  running  stream, 
and  a  short  stretch  of  rocky,  broken  country 4  J 

Again  over  gently  undulating  country,  and  into  a  broad  valley,  in  which  are 
several  small  lakes 3£ 

Over  a  very  broken  country,  winding  around  among  projecting  masses  of  basalt, 
to  a  long  lake  to  right  of  trail If 

Trail  passes  near  margin  of  the  lake ;  crosses  the  stream  issuing  from  it;  follows 
the  rocky  canon  in  which  the  stream  runs,  and  over  a  broken  country  to  the  stream 
on  which  we  encamped.  Water  and  grass  good ;  wood  abundant  for  camping 
purposes , 9£ 

— 

November  3. — To  camp  Che-ra-kwa.  Trail  passes  over  a  very  barren  and 
broken  country ;  much  outcropping  lava  and  fragments  of  lava.  Passes  by  one 
small  pond „ , 6 

Over  a  gently  undulating  country,  broken  by  gently  swelling  ridges,  and  cov 
ered  with  bunch-grass  and  sage  bushes;  no  timber  whatever;  descend  into  the 
deep  valley  of  the  Cherakwa 6£ 

Passes  down  this  valley,  which  is  bounded  by  very  steep  walls  of  basalt.  The 
trail  occasionally  passes  over  rocky  points.  Crossed  the  stream,  and  camped  in  a 
small  pocket,  with  good  grass  on  the  hills.  Dead  bushes  the  only  fuel 5 

— 

November  4. — To  camp  on  Lewis's  fork,  or  Snake  river.  A  short  distance  below 
camp  left  the  valley  of  Cherakwa;  crossed  a  high,  rocky  spur,  and  re-entered  the 
valley.  Soon  left  it  and  followed  a  high  plateau,  occasionally  crossing  rocky  spurs; 
crossed  Cherakwa  ;  in  the  Peluse  valley  ;  crossed  Peluse 5 

Left  valley  of  Peluse,  here  wide  and  barren,  and  destitute  of  timber.  Passed 
over  a  very  high  and  broken  country,  mostly  covered  with  lava.  Grass  occasion 
ally  on  the  hill-sides.  Descended  into  valley  of  Peluse  by  a  very  steep  and  long 
descent „ 9 

Followed  valley  of  Peluse;  crossed  that  stream,  which  is  fringed  with  small  tim 
ber,  and  has  but  little  grass.  Arrived  at  the  Snake  river  a  short  distance  below 
the  mouth  of  Peluse.  The  animals  swam  over;  the  packs,  &c.,  carried  over  in 
canoes ;  everything  crossed  in  safety.  Camped  on  the  barren  bank  of  the  river. 

Good  bunch-grass  on  the  hills;  used  drift-wood  for  fuel;  no  other  to  be  had 2f 



November  5. — To  camp  on  the  Touchet.  Ascended  the  high  plateau  bordering 
Snake  river;  pass  over  a  country  made  up  of  a  mass  of  rounded  hills;  finally 
arrived  in  a  broad,  smooth  valley,  without  water ;  thence  into  the  fine  valley  of  the 
Touchet.  Camped  upon  the  stream;  trail  capital;  excellent  grass,  soil,  and  wood; 
no  water  from  camp  to  camp 21 

November  G. — To  camp  at  Whitman's  Mission.  Crossed  the  Touchet  near  camp; 
passed  over  a  country  similar  to  that  of  yesterday;  came  into  the  valley  of  the 
"Dry  Fork"  of  Wallah- Wallah ;  soil  and  grass  excellent  in  the  valley;  no  running 
water 9f 

Followed  this  valley 3£ 

Left  the  valley,  and  passed  over  country  similar  to  that  between  Touchet  and 
Dry  fork;  cross  one  small  spring  branch;  reach  the  valley  of  Wallah- Wallah 
river 4 


388  ITINERARY    OF    THE    ROUTE    FROM    FORT   VANCOUVER   TO    FORT    DALLES. 

Cross  obliquely  the  vnllev  of  the  Wallah-Wallah,  crossing  three  small  creeks; 
camp   near  Whitman's  Old  Mission;  grass  good  ............................. 


Norember  7.  —  Follow  valley  of"  Wallah-  Wall  ih  on  right  bank,  crossing  the  branch 
on  which  we  encamped  a  few  hundred  yards  after  starting.  Trail  good,  and  gene 
rally  level  to  crossing  of  Too-she  ..........................................  9f 

Trail  now  passes  over  sand-hills;  often  leaves  the  valley  for  a  time,  and  is  gene 
rally  heavy;  little  or  no  grass  in  the  valley;  cross  the  Wallah-Wallah  twice; 
camped  two  miles  from  Fort  Wallah-  Wallah;  grass  very  poor;  wood  scarce.  ...  8f 


8.  —  Followed  valley  of  Wallah-Wallah  to  the  fort;  trail  in  deep  sand; 
no  grass  or  timber;  cross  the  stream  twice  ..................................          2 

On  leaving  the  fort  crossed  the  Wallah-Wallah;  passed  over  a  high  and  rocky 
spur;  followed  a  canon,  and  by  a  steep,  rocky  asc<  nt,  gained  the  valley  of  the 
Columbia.  Followed  a  level  sandy  terrace,  with  but  a  few  occasional  bushes. 
Camped  on  the  river  bank,  with  but  little  wood  and  grass;  plenty  of  sage  .......  10 

-  12 
No  cmb>r  9.  —  Followed   the  sandy  river-bottom.     Trail  sometimes  passes   over 

at  the  base  of  rock\  spurs,  which  run  out  to  the  river  ........................          6 

Leave  the  river-botiom  and   ascend  a  high,   sandy  and    barren  plateau.     Travel 

over  this  behind  1  he  ridge  bordering  the  river  ...............................          8 

Descend  into  the  river-bottom,  which  is  here  very  sand}',  and  destitute  of  grass. 

Cross  the  Umatilla  at  its  mouth;  crossing  good  ..............................          1  J 

Coniin.ie  on  the  river-bottom  and  camp.     The  animal-  here  managed  to  pick  up 

a  few  blades  of  grass.     i\o  timber;  a  single  piece  of  drift-wood  had  to  serve  for  fuel 

for  the  whole  party  .................................................  ,  ___  £ 

-  16 
November  10.  —  Trail  follows  the  river-bottom,  and  generally  keeping  close  to  the 

bank;  on  one  occasion,  leaving  it  for  about  six  miles  to  cut  off  abend.  There  is  no 
grass  in  this  day's  march.  The  whole  country  is  a  desert  of  loose  sand,  with  a 
few  sage  bushes.  A  high  wind,  blowing  in  our  faces,  caused  great  suffering  to  the 
command  from  the  clouds  of  sand.  Camped  near  river  bank,  in  a  cluster  of  low 
bushes.  Little  or  no  fuel  of  any  kind.  Sage  and  cuckle  burrs  were  the  principal 
food  of  the  animals  .........................................................  14 

November  11.  —  Country  like  that  of  yesterday,  and  sand  equally  disagreeable. 
Crossed  Willow  creek  (Hokespan)  ........................................  11 

Ascended  from  its  valley  by  a  steep  slope;  passed  over  a  high  plateau,  and  soon 
descended  again  into  the  river-bottom,  which  was  like  that  of  yesterday.  Camp 
in  the  sand-hills;  a  little  very  poor  grass  on  a  low  flat;  a  few  small  whortleberries. 

November  12.  —  Travelled  among  sand-hills  ................................ 

Passed  along  the  base  of  high  basaltic  cliffs  ;  trail  sometimes  rocky,  at  others 
sandy  ;  then  ascended  a  high,  narrow  plateau,  on  which  is  bunch-grass.  Descended 
into  a  small  ravine,  and  camped  on  the  river  bank.  Grass  on  the  hills.  A  little 
drift-wood  supplied  us  with  fuel  ..........................................  3f 


November  13.  —  Crossed  a  steep,  rocky  point,  and  then  followed  among  the  sand 

hills,  occasionally  passing  over  or  at  the  base  of  basaltic  spurs  and  cliffs  .........  8 

Pass  a  very  bad,   roeky  spur,  and  then  over  the  stony  beach  .  .  ..............  1 

Among  sand-hills  again.  ___  .  .  ......  ,  ...................................  1 


METEOROLOGY   OF   THE    CASCADES.  389 

Rose  to  a  high,  narrow  plateau,  with  bunch-grass;  descended  into  the  narrow 
and  deep  ravine  of  the  Mahah,  (John  Day's  river,)  and  crossed;  bad  descent  into 
the  river  ..............................................................  3£ 

Crossed  very  high  sand-hills,  and  re-entered  Columbia  bottom,  which  is  of  the 
usual  sandy  nature.  Camped  in  a  thicket  of  willows.  Grass  on  the  hill-sides  ; 
willows  for  fuel  ......................................  ...................  If 

-  15 
November  14.  —  Trail  passes  over  sandy  bottom;  then  crosses  a  very  bad,  rocky 

point,  some  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length.  The  trail  is  here  narrow  and  some 

what  dangerous  in  places  ................................................  1£ 

Descended  into  river-bottom,  which  we  kept  as  far  as  the  Des  Chutes,  passing 
over  two  rocky  points  not  quite  so  bad  as  the  first.  Struck  the  emigrant  road 
about  three  miles  before  reaching  the  Des  Chutes.  Crossed  the  Des  Chutes,  fer 
rying  the  baggage  ;  crossing  bad  ..........................................  6£ 

Ascended  from  the  Des  Chutes  valley  by  a  long  and  steep  ascent;  followed  the 
undulating  plateau  ;  then  by  a  still  steeper  ascent  gained  a  very  high  level;  followed 
this  upper  plateau,  and  descended,  by  a  very  long  and  gradual  slope,  into  the 
valley  of  Olney's  creek.  ]\o  timber  whatever  on  these  plateaux,  but  good  bunch- 
grass.  Camped  on  the  creek;  good  water  and  grass,  but  no  wood.  Used  the 
"  bois  de  vache"  for  fuel..  ,  ..............................................  3£ 

-  11 
November  15.  —  Followed  down  the  valley  and  crossed  the  creek  ..............            % 

Left  the  creek  and  followed  a  smooth,  ascending  ravine;  crossed  a  summit  and 

reached   the  valley  of  another  branch  of  Olney's  creek  ;  descended  valley  of  the 

main  creek  to  the  Columbia  ..............................................          5f 

Followed  Columbia  valley  to  Fort  Dalles  ;  trail  excellent.  Camped  near  a 
small  spring,  with  good  bunch-grass  on  the  hills  .............................  3£ 


Total  distance  travelled  northward  and  back  to  Fort  Dalles  .................  1,051|- 

I  will  here  add,  that  the  above  itinerary  only  embraces  the  tract  of  country  passed  over  by  the 
main  party  and  detached  parties  under  your  immediate  command. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  F.  MINTER, 

Assistant  Engineer. 

Capt.   G.    B.    McCLELLAN, 

Commanding  Expedition,  fyc. 


I. 
GENERAL   CLIMATOLOGY. 

35.  REPORT  OP  LIEUTENANT  s.  MOWRY,  u.  s.  A.,  TO  CAPTAIN  GEORGE  B.  MC'CLELLAN,  CORPS  OP 
ENGINEERS,  OF  THE   METEOROLOGY  OF  THE  CASCADES. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

February  10,  1854. 

SIR:  In  compliance  with  your  instructions,  T  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report  of 
the  meteorological  observations,  taken  under  my  directions,  for  the  western  division  of  the  North 


390  METEOROLOGY  OF  THE  CASCADES. 

Pacific  Railroad  Exploring  Expedition;  and  also,  herewith,  the  observations  tabulated  according 
to  the  form  established  by  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 

The  meteorological  observations  commenced  July  2d,  and  continued,  with  an  interruption  of 
a  few  days  only,  from  July  17th  to  July  21st,  until  November,  embracing  a  period  of  nearly  five 
months,  and  the  entire  country  from  Fort  Vancouver,  Washington  Territory,  to  Fort  Colville, 
Washington  Territory,  north  of  the  Columbia,  and  the  return  through  the  same  distance  south  of 
the  Columbia,  including  the  country  east  and  west  of  the  Cascade  range,  and  at  one  point 
approaching  within  two  hundred  miles  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  At  only  two  points  were  the 
observations  continued  for  a  sufficient  time  to  form  a  correct  estimate  of  the  climate  at  the  season 
of  the  year  in  which  they  were  taken — at  the  camp  on  the  Wenass  river,  and  in  the  valley  of 
the  Yakima. 

The  thermometer  for  the  month  of  July  indicates  a  temperature  ranging — 

From  44°  to  66°  at  sunrise. 

From  65    to  74    at  9  a.  m. 

From  78    to  94    at  3  p.  m. 

From  69    to  83    at  9  p.  m. 
Weather  clear  and  pleasant;  general  direction  of  wind  northwest;  no  rain. 

For  the  month  of  August — 

From  48°  to  64°  at  sunrise. 

From  58    to  76    at  9  a.  m. 

From  71    to  88    at  3  p.  m. 

From  52    to  79    at  9  p.  m. 

Weather  generally  fair;  general  direction  of  wind  south  and  southwest;  rain  on  7th,  8th,  and 
9th  instant. 

For  the  month  of  September — 

From  42°  to  58°  at  sunrise. 

From  51    to  73    at  9  a.  m. 

From  58    to  84    at  3  p.  m. 

From  50    to  73    at  9  p.  m. 

Weather  unsettled;  wind,  general  direction  south  and  west;   rain  fell  on  1st,  2d,  13th,  15th, 
16th,  23d  and  24th  instant. 
For  the  month  of  October — 

From  10°  to  59°  at  sunrise. 

From  47    to  67    at  9  a.  m. 

From  51    to  83    at  3  p.  m. 

From  41    to  70    at  9  p.  m. 

Weather  cloudy;  wind  south  and  southwest;  rain  fell  on  the  14th,  15th,  16th,  17th,  and  30th 
instant;  snow  fell  on  the  night  of  the  23d  and  morning  of  24th. 

It  will  be  observed,  from  the  statement  and  from  the  tables,  that  the  disproportion  between  the 
temperature  at  sunrise  and  mid-day  is  very  great — a  peculiarity  of  the  climate  noted  in  Green- 
how's  History  of  the  Northwest  Coast,  and  I  believe  by  other  authorities.  The  rise  in  the  ther 
mometer  from  sunrise  to  11  o'clock  was  in  many  instances  noted  to  be  as  high  as  15°,  and 
during  the  hottest  days  experienced  late  in  August,  at  sunrise  the  thermometer  stood  as  low  as  40°. 

I  have  no  recollection  of  a  single  day  on  which  a  fire  was  uncomfortable  during  the  time  just 
preceding  and  succeeding  sunrise. 

The  heat  was  not  generally  oppressive,  except  in  the  sun,  throughout  the  march.  Rain  fell  on 
the  occasions  noted  above. 

At  Chequoss,  on  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  range,  August  9th,  there  was  a  severe  storm, 
lasting  but  a  few  moments,  however,  of  mingled  hail  and  rain,  accompanied  by  a  strong  gale 
from  the  southwest. 


METEOROLOGY   OF   THE    CASCADES.  391 

During  this  day  the  thermometer  indicated  a  temperature  below  the  freezing-point,  and  ice 
formed  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch.  At  the  same  time  and  place  strawberries  were  growing 
in  great  luxuriance  and  abundance — an  anomaly  agreeable  in  itself,  and  worthy  of  mention. 

The  Indians,  who  resort  to  this  place  annually  for  berries,  informed  me  that  the  weather  was 
usually  as  we  found  it  there;  and  they  were  well  provided  with  blankets  for  protection  against 
the  cold.  From  the  same  source  I  gathered  the  information  that  the  snow  falls  here  as  early  as 
November,  and  during  the  winter  covered  the  trees. 

On  leaving  the  low  prairie  lands  back  of  Vancouver,  and  gradually  penetrating  the  range  of 
mountains,  the  atmosphere,  clear  below,  became  smoky.  This  appearance  continued  throughout 
the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mountains.  It  is  believed  to  be  caused  chiefly  by  the  immense 
fires  which,  from  time  to  time,  are  kindled  in  the  forests  by  the  Indians,  and  which  lay  waste 
large  sections  of  country.  For  scores  of  miles  we  marched  through  a  country  entirely  devastated 
by  this  element. 

The  change  of  temperature  from  a  high  point  to  a  low  one  as  we  ascended  the  mountains,  its 
remaining  at  nearly  a  fixed  point  while  traversing  the  summit,  and  the  gradual  increase  as  we 
descended  into  the  valleys,  will  be  noticed  by  referring  to  the  tables. 

The  expedition  remained  in  camp  in  the  valley  of  the  Wenass  river  two  weeks.  At  this  point 
the  thermometer  ranges  higher  than  at  any  other.  The  highest  temperature  indicated  was  on  the 
24th  of  August,  at  3  p.  m.,  100°  in  the  shade;  but  during  the  last  week  in  August  the  average 
temperature  at  meridian  was  above  90° — at  sunrise  it  reached  50°.  The  valley  of  the  We 
nass  is  almost  one  thousand  feet  above  the  sea-level.  An  extract  from  my  meteorological  journal 
for  one  day  describes  the  appearance  of  the  cloudy  and  the  general  character  of  the  weather 
throughout  the  month. 

August  26. — Sun  rose  clear  and  brilliant;  no  dew;  air  hot  and  dry  at  8  a.  m. ;  no  breeze  until 
9  a.  m.  From  9  a.  m.  light  cirrus  and  cirro-stratus  clouds  visible,  rising  in  southern  and  western 
horizon,  gradually  becoming  cumulus  p.  m.  Sky  one-third  cloudy  at  4.  p.  m.  The  last  three  days 
would  have  been  suffocating  by  heat  had  it  not  been  for  a  gentle  breeze,  and  clouds  at  intervals 
obscuring  ihe  sun.  The  thermometer  near  a  cool  running  stream,  and  in  the  shade,  ranges  from 
90°  to  100°.  Strong  breeze  from  northwest  at  9  p.  m.  Comet  visible  from  G£  to  7.38  p.  m.; 
brilliant  near  the  horizon,  arid  emitting  luminous  particles  from  the  nucleus,  or  from  the  tail  near 
the  nucleus.  That  there  should  be  no  possibility  of  mistake  about  this  last  phenomenon,  I  called 
others  to  observe  it,  and  for  several  minutes  luminous  particles  were  distinctly  seen  thrown  out, 
like  sparks  from  heated  iron  under  the  hammer,  taking  no  regular  course,  and  expiring  a  short 
distance  from  the  nucleus  or  tail. 

From  the  camp  on  the  Wenass  river  the  expedition  moved  to  the  valley  of  the  Yakima,  about 
twenty  miles  to  the  north  and  east,  where  we  remained  in  camp  about  three  weeks.  The  tem 
perature  here  was  much  lower  than  at  Wenass.  From  the  1st  to  the  19th  of  September,  the  ther 
mometer  at  noon  seldom  indicated  a  higher  temperature  than  70°  to  60°.  Some  rain  fell  early  in 
the  month ;  the  weather  was  threatening,  and  the  barometer  unsettled  in  its  indications  for  several 
days  preceding  and  succeeding  the  10th.  I  am  informed  by  the  Indians,  and  also  by  the  rever 
end  father  of  the  Yakima  mission,  that  the  snow  in  the  winter  falls  in  these  valleys  to  a  depth  of 
from  six  to  ten  feet,  rendering  them  wholly  uninhabitable,  except  near  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima 
and  the  approaches  to  the  Columbia  river. 

The  expedition  reached  Fort  Okinakane  September  27th,  and  here  again  for  a  few  days  the 
heat  was  intense.  The  temperature  of  the  water  of  the  Columbia  was  above  52°,  and  of  the 
Okinakane  much  higher. 

Proceeding  up  the  Methow  river,  and  attaining  a  latitude  above  48°,  and  a  point  elevated  some 
two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  we  again,  only  three  days  after  leaving  Okinakane,  found  a  tem 
perature  below  freezing  at  sunrise,  and  scarcely  reaching  50°  at  meridian. 

While  ascending  the  Okinakane  river,  early  in  October,  the  temperature,  afier  the  first  chill  of 


392  METEOROLOGY  OF  THE  CASCADES. 

morning  had  passed,  was  much  the  most  agreeable  we  experienced,  although  it  was  late  in  the 
season,  and  the  latitude  nearly  49°.  This  continued,  with  slight  exceptions,  during  our  descent 
of  the  valley  of  Colville  river,  and  during  the  first  of  our  stay  at  Fort  Colville.  The  mornings, 
however,  were,  with  scarcely  an  exception,  cold  and  raw ;  ice  formed  in  the  buckets,  and  heavy 
frosts  were  visible. 

The  lowest  temperature  indicated  by  the  thermometer,  during  the  march,  was  on  the  23d  of 
October — 8°  half  an  hour  before  sunrise,  10°  at  sunrise.  During  the  preceding  day  the  ther 
mometer  read  below  32°.  The  frost  on  that  day  was  the  heaviest  I  have  ever  seen;  it  re 
mained  distinctly  visible  until  nearly  noon.  Snow  fell  on  the  night  of  the  23d  and  morning  of  the 
24th  to  the  depth  of  six  inches,  the  only  snow  observed  throughout  the  march.  It  was  succeeded 
by  a  rain  and  thaw,  which  removed  every  vestige  of  it  in  a  few  days.  The  valley  back  of  Col 
ville  is  well  sett  ed,  and  the  inhabitants  assured  me  that  it  was  unusual  to  have  snow  so  early. 

Severe  frost  attended  us  from  this  time,  with  few  exceptions,  until  our  arrival  at  the  Cnscades 
of  the  Columbia.  After  leaving  Wallah-Wallah  we  had  one  or  two  showers  of  rain,  but  none  of 
long  continuance  until  the  expedition  reached  the  Cascades.  I  learned  from  the  Indians,  and  old 
residents  of  the  upper  portion  of  the  Territory,  that  but  little  rain  falls  above  latitude  46°. 

Thunder  and  lightning,  a  phenomenon  of  rare  occurrence  in  this  climate,  were  observed  only 
two  or  three  times.  It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  the  Indians  assert  thunder  and  lightning  to  have 
been  introduced  by  the  whites. 

Aurora  Borealis  was  faintly  observed  on  two  occasions — on  September  1st,  and  during  the  night 
of  the  27th  of  the  same  month.  I  extract  from  my  journal  the  notes  made  on  the  latter  date. 

September  27,  1853. — Aurora  Borealis  was  observed,  commencing  about  7  p.  m.,  in  the  north 
horizon.  The  phenomenon  first  exhibited  was  that  of  ra}^s  of  li^ht,  commonly  called  "needles," 
shooting  up,  distances  varying  from  8°  to  15°,  alternately  brightening  and  darkening.  This 
appearance  gradually  extended  towards  the  east,  until  it  was  exhibited  throughout  the  horizon 
from  north  to  north  by  east.  The  light  gradually  diminished  in  brightness,  and  when  nearly 
blended  with  the  general  color  of  the  horizon,  (purple  gray)  it  took  the  form  of  an  arch,  with  a 
rise  of  about  7°  and  span  of  40°.  This  arch  gradually  dilated  in  length  and  height  until  it 
became  almost  90°  in  length  and  from  15°  to  18°  high. 

During  the  earlier  part  of  the  time  the  arch  was  visible,  the  horizon  enclosed  within  it  was 
perfectly  dark,  and  the  aurora  increased  in  brilliancy,  until  it  became  beautifully  distinct  and 
finely  marked. 

As  the  arch  gradually  assumed  its  greatest  size,  the  same  phenomenon  first  observed  became 
again  visible,  and  within  the  arch  strong  flashes  of  light,  some  needle-like  in  shape,  others 
broader  and  less  fine,  but  gradually  converging  to  a  point  until  they  reached  their  greatest  altitude; 
then  falling  until  they  became  nearly  indistinct,  and  again  reviving  in  their  original  brilliancy. 
This  commenced  in  the  eastern  point  of  the  arch,  or  was  just  observed  there,  and  extended 
itself  over  the  whole  enclosed  horizon.  Outside  of  the  arch,  at  its  northern  extremity,  bright 
flashes  of  light  were  thrown  up,  resembling  in  every  respect  those  observed  within. 

During  the  continuance  of  this  arch  the  "needles"  of  light  did  not  attain  a  greater  height  than 
12°.  About  11  p.  m.  the  arch  had  disappeared,  and  given  place  to  an  appearance  of  similar 
nature  to  the  first  observed,  but  on  a  much  grander  and  more  beautiful  scale.  Narrow  streams 
of  liglu,  exceedingly  brilliant,  shot  up  from  the  horizon  to  the  zenith,  distinctly  marked  and  sepa 
rated  irom  each  other  by  dark  shadows  intervening. 

This  light  had  a  waving,  tremulous  motion;  the  shadows,  moving  with  the  light,  gave  an 
appearance  of  panoramic  views  passing  from  left  to  right.  This  last  phenomenon  was  one  of 
exquisite  beauty.  The  moving  of  the  light,  its  alternate  darkening  and  again  becoming  brilliant, 
and  the  flashes,  shooting  far  up  into  the  heavens,  gave  a  phantasm ic  character  to  the  scenes 
entirely  inappreciable  to  one  not  a  witness  of  it. 


METEOROLOGY  OF  THE  CASCADES.  393 

Observations  were  made  on  shooting  stars,  meteors,  and  other  phenomena  of  like  nature.  The 
results  are  given  below,  taken  from  my  journal : 

August  7,  1853. — Observed  several  shooting  stars :  one  passing  from  the  northern  sky,  about 
45°  above  the  horizon,  in  a  westerly  direction ;  one  passing  over  an  arc  of  15°  in  a  direction 
diagonal  to  the  first.  A  brilliant  meteor,  from  just  below  the  zenith,  passed  over  about  25°  in  a 
direction  north  of  west;  others  not  distinctly  observed. 

August  9. — Ten  or  twelve  meteors  of  large  size  were  observed,  leaving  distinct  and  brilliant 
trains  behind  them ;  most  of  these  meteors  originated  in  the  vicinity  of  the  North  star.  The 
course  of  the  largest  and  most  luminous  was  nearly  parallel  to  the  horizon,  occasionally  one 
inclining  slightly  towards  the  zenith.  Four  or  five  brilliant  meteors  passed  from  northern  to  east 
ern  sky,  over  arcs  varying  from  10°  to  35°.  Four  bright  stars  passed  from  the  southern  sky 
about  45°  to  the  horizon.  Two  small  stars  passed  reciprocally  from  west  to  north  and  from  north 
to  west,  their  traces  crossing  each  other  about  the  middle  of  each ;  the  arc  described  being  about 
25°  in  length,  respectively,  beginning  and  ending  near  the  North  star.  Some  three  or  more  shooting 
stars  were  observed  passing  generally  from  the  northern  to  the  western  sky,  over  arcs  ranging 
from  10°  to  40°.  Hours  of  observation  from  9  to  12  p.  m. 

August  10. — Seven  large  brilliant  meteors  observed  passing  from  northern  sky,  near  the  North 
star,  to  western  sky,  nearly  parallel  to  the  horizon.  Four  of  nearly  same  size  and  appearance 
passed  from  the  eastern  sky  to  the  horizon.  Several  small  shooting  stars,  forming  a  cluster, 
passed  from  northern  to  eastern  sky  in  a  line  nearly  parallel  to  the  horizon;  at  the  same  moment 
a  meteor  passed  from  the  north  to  the  western  sky. 

August  26,  7  p.  m. — A  very  brilliant  and  beautiful  meteor  was  observed.  It  appeared  almost 
six  inches  in  diameter,  and  was  first  seen  in  the  eastern  sky,  about  40°  below  the  zenith.  It 
moved  in  a  northerly  direction,  and  gradually  descended  towards  the  horizon,  with  a  slow  reg 
ular  motion,  occupying  several  seconds  in  its  course,  passing  over  an  arc  of  about  20°,  and  disap 
pearing  about  25°  above  the  horizon.  Three  distinct  colors  were  displayed  in  its  progress — 
yellow,  purple  or  reddish,  and  light-blue.  The  blue  tint  became  perceptible  just  below  the 
disappearance  of  the  meteor,  and  seemed  to  separate  from  it,  forming  a  light  cloud  which  slightly 
expanded  before  disappearing. 

Between  7  and  8  p.  m.,  several  shooting  stars  were  noticed — general  direction  across  the  zenith 
from  west  to  east,  and  vice  versa.  These  stars  were  quite  brilliant,  but  small,  and  left  distinct 
trains  of  luminous  matter.  At  8.45  p.  m.,  a  brilliant  meteor  passed  in  a  northeast  direction, 
describing  an  arc  of  20°,  beginning  about  40°  above  the  horizon  and  descending;  at  9  p.  m.,  one 
from  zenith,  course  south  about  10°;  at  10  p.  m.,  one  from  zenith,  15°  in  length  to  the  east;  at 
12  p.  m.,  one  from  zenith  towards  east,  arc  of  50°  described,  course  perpendicular  to  the  horizon. 
This  star  was  very  brilliant.  Of  the  star  noticed  between  7  and  8  p.  m.  as  leaving  the  zenith,  two 
of  the  most  marked  described  arcs  of  30°  to  35°  in  length. 

September  22. — A  brilliant  meteor  was  seen  about  9  p.  m.  in  the  southern  sky.  It  exploded 
with  a  noise  resembling  thunder.  Not  having  seen  it  myself,  I  am  unable  to  describe  it  more 
minutely. 

The  general  facts  with  regard  to  the  climate,  deduced  from  these  observations,  are :  first,  the 
exceeding  dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  the  hygrometer  indicating  often  a  difference  of  20°,  and 
seldom  less  than  10°,  between  the  wet  and  dry  bulb;  second,  great  scarcity  of  rain  during  the 
late  spring,  summer,  and  early  autumn  months,  and,  above  the  latitute  of  46°,  an  almost  entire 
absence  of  rain  throughout  the  year;  third,  a  great  disproportion  between  the  temperature  of  the 
nights  and  days,  and  a  tendency  to  freezing,  even  in  the  summer  months,  during  the  hours  just 
preceding  dawn. 

The  climate  is,  by  the  united  testimony  of  the  inhabitants,  a  healthy  one,  but  east  of  the  mount 
ains  certainly  not  favorable  to  agriculture.  In  this,  however,  nature,  which  does  riot  present 
50/ 


394  METEOROLOGY  OF  THE  CASCADES. 

incongruities,  has  adapted  climate  to  country.  Where  there  is  no  soil  for  the  labor  of  the  agricul 
turist,  the  necessity  for  a  favorable  climate  is  not  apparent. 

As  the  observations  of  this  portion  of  the  expedition,  together  with  the  others,  are  to  be  placed 
in  the  hands  of  a  competent  person,  and  a  general  report  on  the  meteorology  of  the  Territory 
prepared  for  them,  I  have  confined  myself  to  the  above  statement  of  facts. 

The  instruments  used  by  the  expedition  were  two  English  barometers,  Green's  hygrometers 
and  thermometers.  The  rain-gauge  was  broken  soon  after  leaving  Fort  Vancouver,  and  from  that 
time  no  measurement  of  rain  was  taken.  The  expedition  is  indebted  to  John  B.  Preston,  Esq., 
late  surveyor  general  of  Oregon  Territory,  for  two  French  barometers.  They  were,  however,  of 
little  value,  soon  broken,  and  the  observations  made  with  them  do  not  appear  in  the  tables.  The 
last  English  barometer  was  broken  near  Fort  Okinakane,  and  in  place  of  it  an  aneroid  was  used. 
From  my  experience  with  the  latter,  I  have  small  faith  in  it  as  a  field  instrument.  Its  observa 
tions  have  been  tabulated  to  October  26th,  in  order  to  connect  with  those  of  the  main  expedition 
from  the  east.  From  its  movements,  however,  I  should  be  afraid  to  vouch  for  their  value.  In 
the  general  observations  of  the  expedition  I  have  perfect  confidence.  My  assistant,  J.  D.  Biles, 
is  a  faithful  and  accurate  observer,  and  I  am  indebted  to  him  for  much  valuable  assistance.  The 
principal  observations  were  taken  by  him  under  my  directions. 

A  series  of  observations  were  made  at  Vancouver,  by  my  direction,  with  the  standard  barom 
eter,  beginning  July  19th  and  ending  November.  The  observer  was  a  man  already  noticed  by 
the  Smithsonian  Institution  for  correct  and  accurate  observation,  and  I  believe  the  series  taken  by 
him  to  be  reliable. 

The  thermometer,  for  the  month  of  July,  at  Vancouver,  indicates  a  temperature  ranging — 

From  60°  to  68°  at  sunrise. 
From  67  to  78  at  9  a.  m. 
From  80  to  90  at  3  p.  m. 
From  71  to  82  at  9  p.  m. 

Weather,  fair  and  pleasant ;  general  direction  of  wind,  north  and  northwest ;  no  rain. 
For  the  month  of  August — 

From  50°  to  60°  at  sunrise. 

From  60    to  70    at  8  a.  m. 

From  74    to  85    at  3  p.  m. 

From  54    to  71    at  9  p.  m. 

Weather,  clear  generally;  general  direction  of  wind,  northwest;  rain  fell  on  the  7th,  8th,  and 
9th  instant. 

For  the  month  of  September — 

From  46°  to  58°  at  sunrise. 
From  52  to  69  at  9  a.  m. 
From  60  to  79  at  3  p.  m. 
From  52  to  70  at  9  p.  m. 

Weather,  cloudy;  general  direction  of  wind,  west;  rain  on  the  13th,  14th,  15th,  17th,  20th, 
and  21st  instant. 

For  the  month  of  October — 

From  33°  to  57°  at  sunrise. 
From  49  to  66  at  9  a.  m. 
From  51  to  83  at  3  p.  m. 
From  42  to  69  at  9  p.  m. 

Weather,  cloudy;  general  direction  of  wind,  north  and  northwest;  rain  fell  on  5th,  llth,  13th, 
15th,  21st,  24th,  25th,  27th,  30th,  and  31st  instant. 


METEOROLOGY  OF    THE    CASCADES.  395 

For  the  month  of  November — 

From  32°  to  53°  at  sunrise. 
From  36  to  52  at  9  a.  m. 
From  39  to  59  at  3  p.  m. 
From  34  to  56  at  9  p.  m. 

Weather,  cloudy;  general  direction  of  wind,  south  and  southeast;  rain  fell  on  13th,  14th,  17th, 
18th,  19th,  20th,  21st,  22d,  23d,  24th,  25th,  and  26th  instant. 

These  observations  present  no  striking  phenomena ;  and  for  particulars  I  beg  leave  to  refer 
to  the  tables,  not  only  in  this  case,  but  throughout  the  expedition.  The  remarks  daily  are  full 
and  accurate,  and  will  be  a  sufficient  guide  to  any  one  interested  in  the  subject. 

In  connexion  with  the  tables,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  a  list  of  the  camps,  with  the  temper 
ature  of  the  soil  at  the  surface,  and  also  one  foot  below  the  surface  ;  and,  in  addition,  a  list  of 
the  streams  crossed  by  the  expedition  in  its  march,  with  the  temperatures  of  the  streams  at  the 
time  of  crossing. 

The  expedition  is  indebted  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Atkinson,  of  Oregon  City,  for  a  series  of  meteorolo 
gical  observations  from  1849  to  1853;  to  Dr.  Steele,  of  the  same  place,  also  for  observations;  to 
Mr.  Moore,  of  Lynn  City,  for  a  copy  of  thermometrical  observations,  taken  early  in  the  history 
of  Oregon,  after  the  white  settlements  were  made,  and  originally  published  in  the  "Oregon  Spec 
tator,"  the  first  newspaper  in  Oregon  Territory.  These  observations  will  accompany  the  tables, 
and  are  of  great  value  as  affording  means  of  comparisons  of  the  climate  during  different  years. 
I  take  great  pleasure  in  acknowledging  the  personal  courtesy  shown  me  by  the  above-named 
gentlemen,  and  also  by  Amory  Holbrook,  Esq.,  who  rendered  me  valuable  assistance  in  my 
search  after  old  and  forgotten  observations. 

I  am,  Captain,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

SYLVESTER  MOWRY, 

Second  Lieut.  3d  Artillery,  in  Charge  of  Meteorological  Observations. 
Capt.  GEORGE  B.  MCCLELLAN, 

Corps  of  Engineers,  Chief  of  Exploring  Expedition,  fyc.,  fyc. 


OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

February  6,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  herewith  four  profile  maps: 

1st.  A  barometric  profile  of  the  route  pursued  by  the  main  party  of  the  western  division  of 
the  North  Pacific  Railroad  Exploring  Expedition,  under  your  command,  from  Fort  Vancouver  to 
Fort  Colville,  Washington  Territor}^. 

2d.  A  barometric  profile  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  Cascade  range,  including  the  valley  of  Ya- 
kima  river  from  its  mouth. 

3d.  A  barometric  profile  of  the  Nahchess  Pass,  Cascade  range,  including  the  Yakima  valley 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Nahchess  river,  and  the  Nahchess  valley. 

4.  A  barometric  profile  of  the  valley  of  the  Methow  river,  from  its  mouth  to  the  junction  of 
the  Twitsp  river  with  the  Methow,  of  the  valley  of  the  Twitsp  to  the  junction  of  the  Nahaiee- 
lixon  river  with  the  Twitsp,  and  of  the  Nahaieelixon  for  a  distance  of  three  and  a  half  miles  from 
its  mouth. 

The  observations  from  which  the  profile  was  calculated  were  taken  with  an  English  barometer, 
which  was  carefully  compared  with  the  standard  barometers  for  several  days  before  the  expedi 
tion  left  Vancouver.  The  instrument  was  a  good  one,  and  in  good  order.  The  observations 
were  taken  either  by  myself  or  by  my  assistant,  J.  D.  Biles,  in  whose  accuracy  and  fidelity  I  have 
perfect  confidence,  and  I  believe  them  to  be  reliable. 


396  METEOROLOGY    OF    ROUTE   FROM   FORT    BENTON    TO    WALLAH-WALLAH. 

The  general  profile,  it  will  be  observed,  terminates  at  Fort  Colville.  Unfortunately  for  its  con 
tinuance,  the  barometer  (the  last  and  best  of  the  four)  was  accidentally  broken  soon  after  leaving 
Fort  Okinakane.  This  occurred  on  the  7th  of  October,  and  from  that  time  the  observations  were 
taken  with  an  aneroid.  A  short  experience  convinced  me  that  the  aneroid,  however  useful  for 
other  purposes,  is  nearly  valueless  in  establishing  the  profile  of  an  extended  line  of  march. 

The  aneroidal  observations,  therefore,  have  been  used  only  to  connect  the  profile  of  our  route 
with  that  of  Lieutenant  Arnold's  party.  They  occupy  only  a  period  often  days,  and  that  portion 
of  the  route  between  the  Okinakane  river  and  the  Columbia  at  Fort  Colville,  following  in  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  trail. 

The  observations  for  the  passes  were  taken  by  yourself,  with  the  same  barometer  as  was  used 
in  the  observations  for  the  general  profile.  In  calculating  the  differences  of  level,  I  used  the  tables 
calculated  from  Laplace's  formula,  published  by  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 

The  point  of  reference  for  the  maps  of  the  Snoqualme  and  Nahchess  Passes  is  the  mouth  of 
the  Yakima  river.  In  the  observations  to  establish  this  point,  I  am  indebted  to  Lieutenant  R. 
Arnold,  third  artillery.  In  the  Methow  river  profile,  including^the  Twitsp  and  Nahaieelixon,  the 
point  of  reference  is  the  mouth  of  the  Methow  ;  and  in  the  general  profile  the  starting-point  of  the 
expedition  is  Fort  Vancouver. 

I  should  have  used  the  level  of  the  sea  as  given  by  Nicollet,  thirty  inches  in  this  latitude,  as  the 
point  of  reference  for  the  general  profile,  had  it  not  been  for  the  fact  that  a  series  of  observations 
made  at  Fort  Vancouver,  with  a  standard  barometer,  under  my  direction,  and  which  extended 
through  a  period  of  several  months,  gave  a  mean  slightly  over  thirty  inches.  Fort  Vancouver  is 
one  hundred  and  ten  miles  from  the  sea,  and,  being  above  the  level  of  the  Columbia  river,  is  of 
course  above  the  sea  level. 

By  consulting  the  observations  made  at  Vancouver  for  Wilkes's  exploring  expedition,  I  found 
they  also  averaged  over  thirty  inches. 

For  this  reason,  and  the  additional  one  that  no  observations  have  been  made  by  either  branch 
of  the  expedition  to  establish  the  usual  point  of  reference,  I  have  taken  Fort  Vancouver  for  that 
point ;  it  being  the  lowest  and  nearest  the  level  of  the  sea. 

I  am,  Captain,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

SYLVESTER  MOWRY, 

Second  Lieut.  Third  Artillery)  in  Charge  of  Meteorological  Report. 
Capt.  GEO.  B.  MCCLELLAN, 

Corps  of  Engineers,  Chief  of  Exploring  Expedition,   fyc.    fyc. 


36.  REPORT  OF  THE  METEOROLOGY  OF  THE  ROUTE  TAKEN  BY  LIEUTENANT  c.  GROVER,  u.  s.  A., 

FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    WALLAH-WALLAH. 

[Extracts  of  data  from  journal.] 

SIR  :  After  returning  from  the  survey  of  that  portion  of  the  Missouri  river  intrusted  to  my 
charge,  I  remained  at  Fort  Benton,  on  the  Missouri,  until  the  2d  day  of  January,  1854.  Up  to 
this  date  but  very  little  snow  had  fallen  in  this  section  of  the  country,  and  what  had  fallen  covered 
the  ground  but  a  few  days  at  a  time.  The  weather,  as  a  general  thing,  had  been  mild  and  even, 
and  the  stock  of  the  Fur  Company,  as  well  as  that  of  the  expedition  left  here,  though  depending 
solely  upon  the  range  for  subsistence,  and  without  shelter  or  care,  was  in  fine  condition.  The 
Missouri  had  for  a  short  time  during  the  month  of  December  been  closed  with  ice,  but  on  New 
Year's  day  was  entirely  open.  My  instructions  contemplating  the  use  of  dog  trains  as  transport 
ation,  every  preparation  had  been  completed  with  the  view — dogs  purchased,  trains  prepared, 
&c.,  &c. ;  but  the  season  had  thus  far  advanced  without  a  sufficient  fall  of  snow  to  enable  me  to 


METEOROLOGY   OP   ROUTE  FROM   FORT   BENTON   TO   WALLAH-WALLAH.  397 

use  them.  I  therefore,  on  the  2d  day  of  January,  left  Fort  Benton  with  my  party  of  four  men 
and  trains,  with  an  addition  of  two  men  with  pack-mules  ;  the  latter  I  intended  to  use  until  enough 
snow  should  fall  to  enable  me  to  use  my  trains. 

On  the  evening  of  the  2d  the  snow  commenced  falling,  and  it  continued  stormy  for  some  days, 
during  which  time  about  six  inches  of  snow  fell.  On  the  morning  of  the  7th  the  weather  had 
assumed  a  more  settled  appearance,  and  the  snow  seemed  likely  to  remain ;  I  therefore  sent  back 
my  pack-mules  and  continued  on  with  my  dogs.  I  had  reason  soon  to  repent  the  step,  however ; 
for,  by  the  morning  of  the  9th,  all  our  snow  had  been  carried  away  by  the  combined  influence 
of  the  sun  and  the  southwest  wind.  I  may  as  well  state,  in  this  connexion,  that  the  southwest 
wind  is  the  prevailing  wind  in  the  winter  season  in  this  section  of  the  country ;  and,  if  it  blows 
for  several  days  in  succession,  it  invariably  brings  with  it  mild  weather,  and  cuts  down  the  snow, 
and  frequently  drives  the  ice  from  the  river.  On  the  9th  and  10th  we  worked  along  slowly  over 
the  bare  ground  to  near  the  base  of  the  main  chain  of  mountains ;  but  on  the  morning  of  the  llth, 
as  we  were  approaching  the  dividing  ridge,  we  struck  the  region  of  snow  and  found  a  cooler 
atmosphere.  On  the  12th  we  passed  the  dividing  ridge,  upon  which  the  snow  lay  to  the  depth  of 
one  foot,  and  in  no  place  where  undisturbed  did  it  exceed  this.  On  the  13th  we  continued  down 
the  Blackfoot  fork ;  the  weather  now  had  become  quite  severe  and  stormy,  and  the  general 
direction  of  the  wind  (northeast)  quite  the  contrary  of  what  it  had  been  east  of  the  divide.  As 
to  the  snow,  its  depth  remained  about  the  same  from  the  divide  to  our  debouch  into  the  lower 
end  of  the  Hell  Gate  defile,  never  exceeding  one  foot,  and  drifting  but  very  little. 

On  the  21st  we  reached  the  Bitter  Root  valley  and  camped  on  the  Bitter  Root  river.  As  we 
approached  the  valley  there  was  a  sensible  diminution  of  snow,  and  in  the  valley  itself  it  did  not 
exceed  five  inches  in  depth,  and  a  portion  of  the  valley  was  entirely  bare.  The  next  day,  the 
22d,  we  arrived  at  the  trading-post  of  Mr.  Owen,  who,  with  great  kindness,  furnished  us  with 
every  comfort  required.  During  my  stay  in  this  fine  valley,  preparatory  to  the  continuation  of 
my  journey,  I  could  but  notice  the  fine  cattle  belonging  to  Mr.  Owen  and  the  Indians,  (Flatheads,) 
and  never  have  I  seen  cattle  in  better  condition  anywhere,  or  in  any  season,  than  these  were, 
though  entirely  unsheltered  and  uncared  for.  The  cows  and  young  cattle  were  mostly  as  fat  as 
stall-fed  beeves  ;  and  calves  a  week  old  and  younger  were  running  at  large  on  the  range.  I  was 
informed  by  Mr.  Owen  that  he  never  lost  his  calves  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather,  though 
he  never  housed  his  stock  or  fed  them.  The  mildness  of  this  valley  may  be  regarded  as  remark 
able,  considering  its  latitude.  As  soon  as  the  Flatheads  heard  of  my  arrival  from  the  country  of 
the  Blackfeet,  the  principal  chiefs  convened  and  called  on  me,  anxious  to  hear  the  news  from 
the  other  side  of  the  mountains.  They  had  been  informed  by  you  previously  of  the  promises  of 
the  Blackfeet  to  desist  from  war ;  but  they  had  been  so  oppressed  and  impoverished  by  them  for 
many  years,  that  they  heard  the  news  with  distrust,  and  their  fears  had  been  realized,  weeks 
before  I  arrived  there,  by  another  descent  of  the  Blackfeet  upon  them,  by  which  they  lost  several 
horses.  They  were  now  anxious  to  learn  if  any  war  parties  were  out,  and  what  was  their  des 
tination.  I  informed  them  that  there  were  six  hundred  young  men  on  war  parties  on  the  Crows, 
but  none  that  I  knew  of  looking  towards  their  country.  In  fact,  the  Flatheads  generally  have  a 
resting  spell  during  the  winter,  as  in  this  season  war  parties  cannot  take  back  the  horses  they 
steal ;  and  as  that  is  the  great  object  of  their  expeditions,  they  wait  till  spring. 

At  this  point  I  found  it  would  be  impracticable  to  continue  farther  with  dogs,  as  about  three- 
fourths  of  the  distance  between  this  and  Wallah- Wallah  was  entirely  destitute  of  snow.  I  there 
fore  prepared  to  pursue  my  journey  with  pack-mules  and  Indian  ponies.  These  I  procured  from 
Lieutenant  Mullan,  who  held  in  charge  a  large  number  of  animals  belonging  to  the  expedition, 
which  had  been  unable  to  proceed  on  with  the  main  party  in  the  fall,  owing  to  their  reduced 
condition,  but  had  so  far  recovered  at  this  time  as  to  be  able,  in  our  opinion,  to  take  the  trip. 
Accordingly,  on  the  29th  I  sent  back  to  Fort  Benton  two  of  my  men  who  had  engaged  to  come 
only  this  far,  with  one  train  and  four  dogs;  the  remaining  trains  and  dogs  I  abandoned,  and, 


308  METEOROLOGY  OF   ROUTE   FROM   FORT   BENTON   TO   WALLAH-WALLAH. 

having  laid  in  a  new  supply  of  provisions,  on  the  30th  left  Fort  Owen.  The  weather  for  the  last 
few  days  had  become  much  milder,  and  the  snow  had  all  disappeared  from  the  valley,  and  the 
ice  had  mostly  left  the  river.  We  followed  down  the  Bitter  Root  river  to  its  junction  with  Hell 
Gate  fork,  and  crossed  the  latter  on  the  evening  of  the  31st.  On  the  1st  of  February,  in  our  gen 
eral  course  down  the  stream  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Blackfoot  and  Hell  Gate  forks,  we 
passed  through  the  defile  of  Coriacah,  in  which  a  few  inches  of  snow  were  found.  From  this 
point  to  Thompson's  prairie  our  course  lay  mostly  through  mountain  defiles  and  small  prairies. 
We  arrived  at  the  above-named  prairie  on  the  night  of  the  5th. 

From  Fort  Owen  up  to  this  point  there  had  been  no  snow  except  on  the  mountain-tops,  and  in 
the  defile  before  mentioned  grass  had  been  very  good  ;  and  in  the  numerous  small  prairies,  among 
which  Camash  prairie  and  Horse  plain  may  be  mentioned,  herds  of  Indian  horses,  which  had  been 
left  there  by  their  owners  to  winter,  were  grazing,  all  in  fine  condition.  On  Thompson's  prairie 
there  was  an  unusual  number  of  them,  for  this  had  been  made  the  depot  for  the  horses  of  all 
travelling  west  this  season,  under  the  impression  that  they  would  be  unable  to  take  them  farther, 
on  account  of  snow  and  want  of  grass.  The  latter  obstacle  I  had  partially  prepared  for  by  taking 
along  a  few  bushels  of  grain.  From  the  morning  of  the  7th  to  the  night  of  the  15th,  when  we 
camped  near  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  our  general  course  was  down  the  Flalhead  river  through  a 
densely- wooded  country,  perfectly  devoid  of  grass  even  in  the  summer.  The  snow  had  gradually 
increased  in  depth  from  Thompson's  prairie  for  about  fifty  miles  west,  when  it  had  reached  the 
depth  of  two  feet  on  an  average,  and  remained  about  this  depth  to  within  a  few  miles  of  Pend 
d'Oreille  lake,  when  it  began  to  decrease,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  lake  was  not  over 
one  foot  in  depth.  The  travelling  for  the  last  seven  days  had  been  severe  on  the  animals,  though 
none  of  them  had  given  out,  notwithstanding  their  want  of  feed.  As  we  continued  westward 
along  the  lake-shore  the  snow  continued  to  decrease,  and  now  and  then  a  fine  field  of  grass  was 
found. 

On  the  17th  a  mule  and  a  horse  gave  out,  and  I  was  obliged  to  leave  them,  which  I  did,  in  good 
grass.  On  the  18th  crossed  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  which  was  nearly  clear  of  ice;  and  on 
the  19th  commenced  the  passage  from  the  river  to  the  Cosur  d'Alene  prairie,  a  distance  of  about 
sixty  miles.  This  distance  we  intended  to  make  in  two  days,  but  our  guide  was  unable  to  follow 
the  trail  on  account  of  snow,  and  consequently  we  did  not  reach  the  prairie  till  the  night  of  the 
22d.  The  travelling  was  worse  these  last  four  days  than  it  ever  had  been  before.  The  snow  for 
most  of  the  way  was  two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  and  very  hard.  The  forest  was  dense,  and  grass 
exceedingly  scarce.  As  we  left  this  forest  we  left  the  snow  for  the  last  time.  The  prairie  was 
covered  with  fine  grass,  and  the  stock  on  this  plain  was  in  nearly  as  good  condition  as  that  in  the 
Flathead  country. 

Here  I  was  obliged  to  procure  a  relay  of  horses  and  leave  mine,  for  they  were  entirely  unable 
to  continue  on  to  Wallah-Wallah.  With  fresh  animals  the  Spokane  prairie  is  seven  travelling 
days  from  Wallah- Wallah,  and  as  the  travelling  was  good,  and  the  streams  mostly  were  fbrdable, 
we  arrived  there  on  the  2d  of  March.  We  found  no  lack  of  grass  at  any  point.  On  the  3d  we 
continued  on  down  the  Columbia,  and  arrived  at  the  Dalles  early  on  the  7th.  Grass  here,  at  this 
season  of  the  year,  may  be  considered  fair,  but  I  should  judge  it  would  be  very  scarce  in  the 
season  of  emigration.  The  principal  feature  of  the  weather,  since  leaving  the  Flathead  village, 
has  been  its  dampness  and  storminess ;  scarcely  a  day  passed,  during  the  whole  time,  that  was 
entirely  pleasant. 

The  above  statement  I  have  endeavored  to  make  as  short  as  possible,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
to  contain  all  that  relates  to  the  subject  in  question.  I  have  not  noticed,  in  any  manner,  the 
topography  or  resources  of  the  country,  or  what  I  saw  of  the  manners  or  customs  of  the 
Indians,  as  you  have  already  all  those  things  before  you. 

Very  respectfully,  C.  G ROVER. 

His  Excellency  I.  I.  STEVENS,  Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 


SNOWS   OP   THE   ROCKY,    BITTEK    ROOT,    AND   CASCADE   MOUNTAINS. 


399 


Date. 

Temperature. 

Remarks. 

Sunrise. 

Noon. 

Sunset. 

o 

o 

o 

Jan.        2 

55.50 

High  SW.  wind  ;  heavy  clouds. 

3 

20 

12 

6.13 

Wind  NE.,  (sunset;)  snowing. 

4 

—12 

—10 

—16.—  13 

Wind  NNW.  ;  at  sunrise,  snowing;  wind  W.  sunset;  clear. 

5 

—11 

1.—  4 

Wind  SSW.  strong,  (sunrise;)  same  noon;  wind  S.  sunset. 

6 

20 

17 

20.19 

Wind  SW. 

7 

30 

33 

32.32 

Wind  SW. 

8 

35 

51 

46.44 

Wind  SW. 

9 

39 

44 

38.40 

Wind  SW. 

10 

16 

36 

28.27 

Wind  SW.,  (noon  and  night.) 

11 

32 

32 

32.32 

Wind  W. 

12 

—16 

—21 

—18.  —18 

Wind  NE.  ;  (noon  observations  taken  on  dividing-ridge.) 

13 

—24 

—19 

—23.  —22 

Wind  NE.  ;  stormy  all  day. 

14 

—25 

—15 

—16.—  19 

Wind  NE. 

15 

—34 

—  1 

—18.—  18 

Clear. 

16 

—38 

—  1 

—21.  -20 

Clear. 

17 

—  8 

8 

—  1.—  0.3 

Wind  NE.  and  snowing  at  sunset. 

18 

—13 

—  6  —  Q 

Snowing  at  sunset  a  little. 

19 

—  16 

—  8 

*-'•                     ij 

—14.—  13 

A  little  snow  fell  at  night. 

20 

—23 

—  2 

—  6.  _io 

21 

+  1 

7 

9.  +6 

Wind  at  sunrise  NE.,  and  snowing;  at  sunset,  wind  SW.  ;  clear. 

22 

+  1 

7 

4-4 

Arrived  at  Fort  Owen. 

30 

42 

39 

Cloudy. 

31 

55 

52 

42 

Wind  SW.  ;  rainy. 

Feb.        1 

28 

25 

25 

2 

13 

34 

26 

3 

13 

39 

39 

Wind  SW.  at  sunset;  cloudy. 

4 

36 

42 

39 

5 

15 

42 

30 

6 

26 

34 

35 

Wind  SW.  ;  sunrise,  cloudy. 

7 

33 

41 

36 

Wind  SW. 

8 

33 

45 

37 

Wind  SW.;  at  sunset  NW.,  overcast. 

9 

34 

42 

37 

10 

30 

39 

35 

11 

33 

35 

30 

12 

23 

35 

30 

Cloudy  ;  snowing  a  little. 

13 

28 

36 

30 

14 

15 

28 

26 

Cloudy. 

15 

22 

26 

25 

16 

23 

37 

28 

Cloudy. 

17 

25 

32 

30 

Cloudy  ;  NW.  wind  in  the  morning. 

18 

26 

39 

32 

Cloudy  ;  snowed  a  little  in  the  morning. 

19 

15 

42 

28 

Cloudy. 

20 

26 

37 

34 

Snowing. 

21 

29 

41 

34 

Cloudy. 

22 

24 

42 

38 

23 

33 

38 

34 

Some  snow  fell  in  the  morning. 

24 

25 

51 

33 

25 

33 

40 

35 

26 

32 

42 

35 

Wind  SW. 

27 

35 

47 

41 

Wind  SW. 

28 

31 

46 

45 

March     1 

41 

45 

42 

2 

33 

45 

Arrived  at  Wallah-  Wallah. 

37.  REPORT  OF  MR.  TINKHAM  OF  THE  SNOWS  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  IN  NOVEMBER,  OF  THE 
BITTER  ROOT  IN  DECEMBER,  AND  OF  THE  CASCADES  IN  JANUARY. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  August  12,  1854. 

SIR:  As  requested  in  your  note  of  to-day,  I  give  herewith,  in  brief,  facts  relating  to  snow  as 
they  were  noticed  in  my  recent  exploration. 

In  October,  1853,  I  left  the  valley  of  St.  Mary's  river;  passing  to  the  eastward,  and  recrossing 
the  Rocky  mountains,  was  in  the  prairies  at  their  eastern  base  from  late  in  October  to  near  the 
middle  of  November;  crossed  again  the  Rocky  mountains  about  the  middle  of  November;  was 


400  WINTER   CLIMATE    BETWEEN    MISSISSIPPI    RIVER   AND   BASE   OF  MOUNTAINS. 

in  the  Bitter  Root  range  of  the  Rocky  mountains  during  most  of  December;  and,  finally,  crossed 
the  Cascade  mountains  during  January. 

On  the  divide  of  the  Rocky  mountains  at  Marias  Pass  I  found  no  snow  when  crossing, 
October  20th,  (save  what  little  snow  of  the  previous  winter  remained  in  the  narrow  valley  at  the 
base  of  the  divide,)  but  the  snow  commenced  falling  that  night;  and  much  of  the  time  spent  in 
the  prairies,  until  I  again  crossed  the  mountains  by  the  Little  Blackfoot  Pass,  was  cold  and  snow 
ing.  The  snow  accumulated  but  little,  and  attained  a  greatest  depth  of  eight  inches.  The 
thermometer  often  ranged  nearly  as  low  as  zero. 

On  the  final  crossing  of  the  Rocky  mountain  summits,  by  the  Little  Blackfoot  Pass,  an  incon 
siderable  depth  of  snow  lay  on  the  ground,  perhaps  an  inch  or  two ;  and  save  occasional  snow- 
squalls  occurring  during  the  descent  of  Little  Blackfoot  and  Hell  Gate  rivers,  I  encountered 
little  until  I  entered  the  Bitter  Root  range  of  mountains,  November  21st.  In  the  St.  Mary's 
valley,  at  that  time,  there  was  no  snow,  and  the  weather  was  mild. 

The  passage  of  the  Bitter  Root  range  was  made  between  November  21st  and  December  18th. 
Excepting  occasional  small  valleys,  the  whole  of  this  mountain  district  in  the  southern  Nez  Perces 
trail  was  covered  with  snow;  having,  as  I  judged,  a  greatest  depth  of  six  feet,  and  an  estimated 
average  depth  of  near  two  feet  for  the  whole  breadth  of  the  mountains. 

I  reached  Wallah- Wallah,  on  the  Columbia,  on  the  30th  day  of  December.  From  the  Bitter 
Root  mountains  to  this  place  I  found  no  snow ;  some  on  the  high  plains  not  far  from  the  mount 
ains,  where,  for  a  short  distance,  it  was  eight  inches  deep. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Yakima  the  first  snow  observed  was  seen  seventy-five  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  and  then,  on  January  13th,  it  was  two  or  three  inches  deep.  Crossing  the 
Cascade  mountains,  January  21st,  by  the  Yakima  Pass,  for  a  few  miles  the  snow  was  six  feet 
deep,  very  rapidly  decreasing  in  the  western  slope;  the  whole  breadth,  over  twelve  inches  deep, 
was  somewhat  less  than  sixty  miles  in  extent. 

Of  this,  about  forty-five  miles  were  two  feet  deep  and  upwards,  about  twenty  miles  were  four 
feet  deep  and  upwards,  and  six  miles  were  six  feet  deep. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  W.  TINKHAM. 

Governor  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  North  Pacific  Railroad  Exploration,  Washington,  D.  C. 


38.    LETTER  OF  THE  HON.  H.  M.  RICE,  AND  EXTRACTS  FROM  LETTERS  OF  HON.  ir.  H.  SIBLEY 

AND  A.  CULBERTSON,  ESQ.,  AS  TO  THE  WINTER  CLIMATE  OF  THE  REGION  EXTENDING  FROM 
THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER  TO  THE  BASE  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS.  (FOR  MUCH  ADDITIONAL  INFORMA 
TION  IN  REGARD  TO  SNOWS,  SEE  THE  SEVERAL  REPORTS  OF  LIEUTENANT  MULLAN.) 

[Letter  from  Hon.  H.  M.  Rice.] 

WASHINGTON,  June  3,  1854. 

DEAR  SIR:  Your  note  of  yesterday,  asking  me  to  make  a  memorandum  in  reference  to  the 
.winter  climate  of  Minnesota,  has  been  received.  Navigation  of  the  Mississippi  river  closes  from 
the  10th  to  the  25th  of  November,  and  opens  from  the  1st  to  the  10th  of  April.  That  of  the  Red 
river  of  the  North  closes  from  1st  to  15th  November,  and  opens  from  10th  to  25th  April.  I  have 
often  travelled  in  the  winter  from  St.  Paul  to  Crow  Wing,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles,  with  a  single  horse  and  sled,  without  a  track,  and  have  never  found  the  snow  deep  enough 
to  impede  my  progress.  I  have  also  gone  from  Crow  Wing,  beyond  the  headwaters  of  the 
Mississippi,  to  the  waters  of  the  Hudson's  bay,  on  foot  and  without  snow-shoes.  I  spent  one 
entire  winter  travelling  through  that  region,  and  never  found  the  snow  over  eighteen  inches  deep, 
and  seldom  over  nine  inches. 


WINTER   CLIMATE    BETWEEN    MISSISSIPPI    RIVER    AND    BASE   OF   MOUNTAINS.  401 

For  several  years  I  had  trading-posts  extending  from  Lake  Superior  to  the  Red  river  of  the 
North,  from  46°  to  49°  north  latitude,  and  never  found  the  snow  so  deep  as  to  prevent  supplies 
being  transported  from  one  post  to  another  with  horses.  One  winter,  north  of  Crow  Wing,  say 
47°  north  latitude,  I  wintered  about  sixty  head  of  horses  and  cattle  without  giving  them  food 
of  any  kind  except  such  as  they  could  procure  themselves  under  the  snow.  Between  the  45th 
and  49th  degrees  north  latitude,  the  snow  does  not  fall  so  deep  as  it  does  between  the  40th  and 
45th  degrees  ;  this  is  easily  accounted  for,  upon  the  same  principle  that  in  the  fall  they  have 
frosts  much  earlier  near  the  40th  than  they  do  near  the  45th  degree.  I  say  this  in  reference  to 
the  country  watered  by  the  Mississippi  river.  Owing  to  its  altitude  the  atmosphere  is  dry 
beyond  belief,  which  accounts  for  the  absence  of  frosts  in  the  fall,  and  for  the  small  quantity  of 
snow  that  falls  in  a  country  so  far  north.  Voyageurs  traverse  the  territory  from  Lake  Superior 
to  the  Missouri  the  entire  winter  with  horses  and  sleds,  having  to  make  their  own  roads,  and  yet 
with  heavy  loads  are  not  detained  by  snow.  Lumbermen,  in  great  numbers,  winter  in  the  pine 
regions  of  Minnesota  with  their  teams,  and  I  have  never  heard  of  their  finding  the  snow  too 
deep  to  prosecute  their  labors.  I  have  known  several  winters  when  the  snow  at  no  time  was 
over  six  inches  deep. 

Very  truly,  yours, 

HENRY  M.  RICE. 


[Extract  from  letter  of  Hon.  H.  H.  Sibley.] 

MENDOTAH,  M.  T.,  June  6,  1854. 

You  desire  me  to  state  briefly  some  facts  connected  with  our  winters — "  the  depth  of  snow, 
the  drifting  of  snow,  the  temperature,  the  practicability  of  travelling  with  animals,  the  habits  and 
the  mode  of  subsistence  of  Indians  during  the  winter,  &c."  I  have  time  at  present  to  reply  in 
very  short  terms  to  these  inquiries. 

It  is  rarely  the  case  that  in  this  part  of  the  Territory  (45°  north  latitude)  the  snow  reaches  a 
depth  exceeding  fourteen  or  fifteen  inches.  Indeed,  I  have  known  two  or  three  successive  win 
ters  when  there  was  not  enough  snow  to  make  tolerable  sleighing,  but  these  were  exceptions  to 
the  general  rule.  As  our  country  is  for  the  most  part  composed  of  prairie,  it  is  of  course  much 
exposed  to  the  action  of  the  winds.  It  is,  however,  a  peculiarity  of  our  climate,  that  calms  pre 
vail  during  the  cold  weather  of  the  winter  months ;  consequently  the  snow  does  not  drift  to  any 
thing  like  the  extent  experienced  in  New  England  or  northern  New  York.  I  have  never  believed 
that  railroad  communication  in  this  Territory  would  be  seriously  impeded  by  the  depth  or  drift 
of  snow,  unless,  perhaps,  in  the  extreme  northern  portion  of  it.  We  have  a  few  days  of  very 
cold  weather  in  each  winter,  when  the  mercury  falls  as  low  as  twenty-eight  or  thirty  degrees 
below  zero,  but  such  weather  never  continues  for  any  length  of  time.  Generally  speaking  our 
winters  are  uniformly  dry  and  clear,  without  rain  or  much  thawing  weather  previous  to  the  month 
of  March.  Navigation  from  St.  Paul  is  usually  open  until  the  15th  or  20th  of  November,  and 
boats  are  looked  for  about  the  first  week  in  April.  The  Mississippi  may,  therefore,  be  regarded 
as  closed  by  ice  a  little  more  than  four  months  in  the  year. 

In  the  month  of  October,  or  earlier,  as  their  crops  of  corn  mature  sooner  or  later,  the  Sioux 
Indians  abandon  their  summer  dwellings  of  bark,  and  betake  themselves  to  their  hunting  grounds, 
living  during  the  winter  in  their  portable  conical  lodges,  made  of  dressed  buffalo-skins.  They 
transport  upon  the  backs  of  their  women  and  horses  as  much  corn  and  wild  rice  as  can  conve 
niently  be  borne ;  but  the  main  dependence  of  the  camp  is  upon  the  meat  of  the  buffalo,  elk, 
deer,  and  bear,  furnished  by  the  hunters.  This  mode  of  subsistence  is  becoming  more  and  more 
precarious  as  the  game  is  destroyed  or  driven  off,  so  that  these  Indians  must  resort  to  the  cul 
tivation  of  the  soil  to  a  much  greater  extent  than  they  do,  or  perish.  The  annuities  paid  even  to 
the  most  wealthy  of  the  western  tribes  are  utterly  insufficient  of  themselves  to  support  them. 

************ 
5 1/ 


402  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

[Extract  from  letter  of  A.  Culbertson,  Esq.J 

ST.  JOSEPH,  June  S,  1854. 

In  regard  to  my  observations  of  the  snow  on  the  upper  Missouri  during  upwards  of  twenty 
years,  I  find,  by  referring  to  notes  taken  of  trips  during  the  winter  season  from  St.  Louis  to  Fort 
Benton,  that  the  snows  differ  from  one  year  to  another.  The  average  depth  might  be  estimated 
at  twelve  inches,  say  from  the  first  of  December  until  the  first  of  March ;  frequently,  however,  the 
snow  does  not  exceed  six  inches.  In  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Benton  snows  are  very  moderate,  and 
scarcely  ever  lie  longer  than  one  month  at  a  time  until  they  disappear.  The  climate  is  a  good 
deal  similar  to  that  of  the  Eastern  States.  The  winters  from  the  Yellowstone  down  are  much 
more  severe,  the  snow  during  high  winds  drifting  so  that  it  is  impossible  for  the  traveller  to  march 
during  these  storms;  they,  however,  seldom  last  over  twenty- four  hours.  I  have  never  seen  snow 
drift  deep  enough  to  stop  me  on  my  way.  ***««*» 


INDIAN  AFFAIRS. 


39.  REPORT  OF  MR.  GEORGE  GIBBS  TO  CAPTAIN  MC'CLELLA.N,  ON  THE  INDIAN  TRIBES  OF  THE 

TERRITORY  OF  WASHINGTON. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

March  4,  1854. 

SIR  :  Herewith  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  my  report  upon  the  subject  of  the  Indian  inhabit 
ants  of  Washington  Territory  ;  and  to  be, 

Very  respectfully, 

GEORGE  GIBBS. 
Capt.  GEORGE  B.  MCCLELLAN, 

Commanding  Western  Division  N.  P.  Railroad  Exploration. 

EEPORT. 

In  considering  the  general  subject  of  the  Indian  tribes  of  this  Territory,  two  natural  divisions 
present  themselves,  separated  by  a  marked  and  definite  boundary  —  the  Cascade  mountains  — 
on  either  side  of  which  the  native  inhabitants  differ  not  less  than  the  geographical  features  of  the 
country. 

It  will  be  proper  to  examine  them  in  turn,  taking  up  the  various  tribes  of  each  division  in 
order,  and  appending  such  observations  in  regard  to  their  management  as  the  most  careful  in 
quiry  practicable  has  suggested. 

In  this  connexion,  the  word  "nation"  will  be  used  of  the  whole  people  speaking  a  common 
language,  and  "tribe"  as  comprehending  the  bands  organized  under  one  head. 

And  first  of  the  interior  or  eastern  section. 

Those  living  between  the  Cascade  and  Rocky  mountains,  within  the  limits  of  this  Territory, 
or  extending  into  it,  are,  first,  the  Wallah-  Wallah  nation,  under  which  term  is  embraced  a 
number  of  bands  living  usually  on  the  south  side  of  the  Columbia,  and  on  the  Snake  river  to  a 
little  east  of  the  Peluse  ;  as  also  the  Klikatats  and  Yakimas,  north  of  the  former.  The  first  may 
be,  for  the  present  purpose,  classed  together  as  the  Wallah-Wallah  tribe.  The  greater  part  of 
their  country,  it  will  be  seen,  lies  in  the  adjoining  Territory  of  Oregon,  and  it  is  proposed  should 
remain  under  the  direction  of  that  superintendency.  The  number  of  these  bands  was  in  1851 
stated  by  Dr.  Anson  Dart,  then  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs,  at  1,093  ;  a  part  of  whom,  how- 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  403 

ever,  belonged  to  the  Upper  Chinooks.  The  whole  number  is  since  much  diminished  by  the 
smallpox.  The  present,  population  is  probably  reduced  to  600,  of  whom  the  majority  are  in 
Oregon  Territory.  The  head  chief  of  the  Wallah-Wallahs  is  Pu-pu-mux-mux,  or  the  Yellow 
Serpent — an  old  man,  who  generally  makes  his  residence  near  Fort  Wallah- Wallah.  His  influ 
ence  with  his  people  is  said  to  be  good  as  far  as  it  goes,  but  he  does  not  exercise  it  beyond  his 
immediate  band.  This  tribe  have  been  notorious  as  thieves  since  their  first  intercourse  with  the 
whites.  They,  as  well  as  their  neighbors,  the  Nez  Perces,  own  large  bands  of  horses,  which 
roam  at  large  over  the  hills  south  of  the  Columbia,  and  their  principal  wealth  consists  in  them. 
There  is  no  wood  in  their  country,  and  they  depend  upon  the  drift  brought  down  by  the  stream 
for  their  fuel.  Their  very  canoes  are  purchased  from  the  Spokanes.  They  move  about  a  great 
deal,  generally  camping  in  winter  on  the  north  side  of  the  river.  Their  fisheries  at  the  Dalles, 
and  at  the  falls  ten  miles  above,  are  the  finest  on  the  river.  The  expedition  passed  through  the 
Wallah- Wallah  country  on  its  return  route,  but  no  official  intercourse  took  place  with  the  tribe. 
They,  as  well  as  the  Nez  Perces  and  Cayuses,  are  at  present  included  in  the  agency  of  Mr.  R.  R. 
Thompson,  of  Oregon.  At  the  crossing  of  Snake  river,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Peluse,  we  met  with 
an  interesting  relic.  The  chief  of  the  band,  Wattai-wattai-how-lis,  in  coming  to  visit  Captain 
McClellan,  exhibited,  with  great  pride,  the  medal  presented  to  his  father,  Ke-powh-kan,  by 
Captains  Lewis  and  Clark.  IL  is  of  silver,  double,  and  hollow,  having  on  the  obverse  a  me 
dallion  bust,  with  the  legend,  "  Thomas  Jefferson,  President  U.  S.  A.,  1801 ;"  and  on  the  reverse 
the  clasped  hands,  pipe,  and  battle-axe,  crossed,  with  the  legend,  "Peace  and  Friendship." 

The  Klikatats  and  Yakimas  will  remain  to  the  Washington  superintendency.  The  former  in 
habit,  properly,  the  valleys  lying  between  Mounts  St.  Helens  and  Adams,  but  they  have  spread 
over  districts  belonging  to  other  tribes,  and  a  band  of  them  is  now  located  as  far  south  as  the 
Umpqua.  Their  nomadic  habits  render  a  census  very  difficult,  though  their  number  is  not  large. 
Dr.  Dart  stated  them  at  492;  since  when,  there  has  certainly  been  a  great  decrease.  The  num 
ber  of  the  two  principal  bands,  as  obtained  during  the  summer,  was,  at  the  Chequoss  138,  and 
at  the  Kamas  plain  84.  These  must  have  constituted  the  chief  part,  as  it  was  the  season  of  ber 
ries  when  they  congregated  there.  Including  all  others  within  the  Territory,  the  total  does  not 
probably  exceed  300.  In  this,  however,  are  riot  reckoned  the  Tai-tin-a-pam,  a  band  said  to  live 
apart  in  the  country  lying  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountains,  between  the  heads  of  the  Cath- 
lapoot'l  and  Cowlitz,  and  which  probably  did  not  enter  into  the  former  estimate.  But  little  is 
known  of  them,  and  their  numbers  are  undoubtedly  small.  The  head  chief  of  the  Klikatats  is 
a  very  old  man,  named  Towe-toks.  He  evidently  possesses  but  little  influence,  his  people  pay 
ing  much  more  respect  to  his  wealthier  neighbors,  Ka-mai-ya-kan,  Skloo,  and  the  other  chiefs  of 
the  Yakimas. 

The  Klikatats  and  Yakimas,  in  all  essential  peculiarities  of  character,  are  identical,  and  their 
intercourse  is  constant;  but  the  former,  though  a  mountain  tribe,  are  much  more  unsettled  in 
their  habits  than  their  brethren. 

This  fact  is  probably  due,  in  the  first  place,  to  their  having  been  driven  from  their  homes, 
many  years  ago,  by  the  Cayuses,  with  whom  they  were  at  war.  They  thus  became  acquainted 
with  other  parts  of  the  country,  as  well  as  with  the  advantage  to  be  derived  from  trade.  It  was 
not,  however,  until  about  1839  that  they  crossed  the  Columbia,  when  they  overran  the  Willa 
mette  valley,  attracted  by  the  game  with  which  it  abounded,  and  which  they  destroyed  in  defiance 
of  the  weak  and  indolent  Callapooyas.  They  still  boast  that  they  taught  the  latter  to  ride  and 

7  hunt. 
They  manifest  a  peculiar  aptitude  for  trading,  and  have  become  to  the  neighboring  tribes  what 
the  Yankees  were  to  the  once  Western  States,  the  travelling  retailers  of  notions;  purchasing  from 
the  whites  feathers,  beads,  cloth,  and  other  articles  prized  by  Indians,  and  exchanging  them  for 
horses,  which  in  turn  they  sell  in  the  settlements.  Their  country  supplies  them  with  an  abun 
dance  of  food.  The  lower  prairies  afford  kamas,  and  the  mountains  a  great  variety  of  berries 


404  INDIAN    TRIBES   OP   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

in  profusion.  The  business  of  gathering  the^e  of  course  falls  on  the  women,  who  go  out  in 
small  parties,  attended  by  a  boy  or  old  man  as  carnp-keeper,  collect  and  dry  the  berries,  or  bring 
into  the  general  camp  what  is  wanted  for  present  food.  Such  of  them  as  bear  keeping  they  store 
for  winter  use,  and  also  for  trade,  exchanging  them  for  fish,  smoked  clams,  and  the  roots  which 
their  own  territory  does  not  furnish. 

Of  game,  there  is  but  little  left.  The  deer  and  elk  are  almost  exterminated  throughout  the 
country,  the  deep  snows  of  winter  driving  them  to  the  valleys,  where  the  Indians,  with  their  usual 
improvidence,  have  slaughtered  them  without  mercy.  The  mountain  goat,  and  the  big-horn,  or 
sheep,  are  both  said  to  have  formerly  existed  here,  but,  since  the  introduction  of  fire-arms,  have 
retired  far  into  the  recesses  of  the  Cascades.  The  black  bear  alone  is  still  found,  though  but 
rarely.  The  salmon  furnishes  to  these,  as  to  most  other  tribes  of  the  Pacific,  their  greatest  sta 
ple  of  food.  Their  neighborhood  to  the  fisheries  of  the  Cascades  and  the  Dalles  provides  them 
for  the  summer;  while,  after  the  subsidence  of  the  Columbia,  later  schools  ascend  the  small  riv 
ers,  and  in  the  autumn  an  inferior  kind  forces  its  way  into  the  brooks,  and  even  the  shallow  pools 
which  form  in  the  prairies. 

Very  few  attempt  any  cultivation  of  the  soil,  though  their  lower  prairies  would  admit  of  it. 
We  were  informed,  however,  that  the  next  season  many  of  them  intended  to  build  houses  there 
and  plant  potatoes.  Their  usual  residence  during  the  summer  is  around  Chequoss,  one  of  the 
most  elevated  points  on  our  trail  from  Fort  Vancouver  across  the  Cascades,  where  we  met  them 
at  the  beginning  of  August.  They  were,  at  this  time,  feasting  on  strawberries  and  the  mountain 
whortleberry,  which  covered  the  hills  around,  though  during  the  night  the  ice  formed  on  the  ponds 
to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch.  Towards  the  end  of  the  month  they  descend  to  the  Yahkohtl, 
Chalacha,  and  Tahk  prairies,  where  they  are  met  by  the  Yakimas,  who  assemble  with  them, 
for  the  purpose  of  gathering  a  later  species  of  berry  and  of  racing  horses.  The  racing  season  is 
the  grand  annual  occasion  of  these  tribes.  A  horse  of  proved  reputation  is  a  source  of  wealth 
or  of  ruin  to  his  owner.  On  his  speed  he  stakes  his  whole  stud,  his  household  goods,  clothes, 
and  finally  his  wives;  and  a  single  heat  doubles  his  fortune,  or  sends  him  forth  an  impoverished 
adventurer.  The  interest,  however,  is  not  confined  to  the  individual  directly  concerned;  the 
tribe  share  it  with  him,  and  a  common  pile  of  goods,  of  motley  description,  apportioned  accord 
ing  to  their  ideas  of  value,  is  put  up  by  either  party,  to  be  divided  among  the  backers  of  the 
winner.  The  Klikatats  themselves  are  not  as  rich  in  horses  as  those  living  on  the  plains,  their 
country  generally  affording  but  little  pasturage,  and  the  deep  snows  compelling  them  to  winter 
their  stock  at  a  distance  from  their  usual  abodes.  The  horse  is  to  them  what  the  canoe  is  to  the 
Indians  of  the  river  and  coast.  They  ride  with  skill,  reckless  of  all  obstacles,  and  with  little  mercy 
to  their  beasts,  the  right  hand  swinging  the  whip  at  every  bound.  Some  of  th  >  horses  are  of  fine 
form  and  action ;  but  they  are  generally  injured  by  too  early  use,  and  sore  backs  are  universal. 
Indiscriminate  breeding  has  greatly  deteriorated  what  must  have  been  originally  a  good  stock, 
and  the  prevalence  of  white  and  gray  in  their  colors  is  a  great  objection.  Wall-eyes,  white  noses 
and  hoofs,  are  more  than  common  among  them.  They  are  almost  always  either  vicious  or  lazy, 
and  usually  combine  both  qualities.  In  their  capacity  for  a  continued  endurance,  they  are  over 
rated.  A  good  American  horse  is  as  much  superior  to  them  in  this,  as  in  speed;  but  they  are 
hardy,  and  capable  of  shifting  with  but  little  food.  Nothing  is  known  of  their  first  introduction. 
They  were  abundant  when  the  country  was  discovered.  It  is  probable  that  the  Shoshonees  or 
Snakes,  a  branch  of  the  Camanches,  first  introduced  them  from  the  South,  and  that  the  breed 
has  since  been  crossed  by  others  from  Canada.  The  best  are  those  belonging  to  the  Cayuses  and 
Nez  Perces.  The  demand  for  horses,  consequent  upon  the  settlement  of  the  country,  has  ren 
dered  the  tribes  possessing  them  really  wealthy. 

Their  price  is  from  $40  to  $100,  but  they  have  some  which  they  will  not  dispose  of  at  much 
higher  rates.  A  few  of  the  chiefs  have  great  numbers,  and  one,  it  is  said,  has  offered  400 — a 
by  no  means  contemptible  dowry — to  any  respectable  white  man  who  will  marry  his  daughter. 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  405 

The  Indians  ride  with  a  hair-rope  knotted  around  the  under  jaw  for  a  bridle.  The  men  use  a 
stuffed  pad,  with  wooden  stirrups.  The  women  sit  astride,  in  a  saddle  made  with  a  very  high 
pommel  and  cantle,  and  in  travelling  carry  their  infants  either  dangling  by  the  cradle-strap  to 
the  former,  or  slung  in  a  blanket  over  their  shoulders  ;  while  children  of  a  little  larger  growth  sit 
perched  upon  the  pack-animals,  and  hold  on  as  best  they  may. 

The  horses  are  trained  to  stand  for  hours  with  merely  a  lariat  thrown  loosely  around  their 
necks,  the  end  trailing  upon  the  ground.  With  the  whites  they  are  at  first  as  shy  as  are  Ameri 
can  horses  or  mules  with  the  Indians ;  but  they  suffer  handling  from  the  squaws  and  children 
with  perfect  contentment,  and  hang  around  the  huts  like  dogs.  When  camping  near  them  we 
oi'ten  found  the  horses  an  intolerable  nuisance,  from  their  incessant  whinnying  during  the  night. 
Whenever  the  musquitoes  were  abundant  they  posted  themselves  in  the  smoke  of  the  fires.  It 
is  the  business  of  the  squaws  in  travelling  to  pack  the  animals,  the  men  contenting  themselves 
with  catching  them  up;  and  they  pile  on  the  most  heterogeneous  assortment  of  luggage  with  a 
skill  that  would  immortalize  a  professional  packer.V  In  breaking  horses  the  Indians  usually  blind 
them  before  mounting,  often  tying  down  their  ears  in  addition.  A  strap  or  cord  is  then  passed 
around  the  body  of  the  animal,  loose  enough  to  admit  the  knees  of  the  rider.  Much  time  is  spent 
in  soothing  and  quieting  the  beast,  as  the  Indian  has  plenty  of  it  upon  his  hands.  W7hen  every 
thing  is  ready  he  vaults  to  his  back,  always  from  the  off-side,  slips  his  knees  under  the  girih 
arid  tightens  it,  withdraws  the  muffle,  and  sits  prepared  for  a  series  of  stiff-legged  plunges,  end 
ing  in  a  charge.  If  the  horse  throws  himself — for  throw  his  rider  he  cannot — the  quick  straight 
ening  of  the  leg  releases  the  knee,  and  he  is  prepared  for  the  emergency. 

In  describing  the  household  goods  of  the  Indian,  his  dogs  are  not  to  be  forgotten.  They  vary 
considerably  in  form  with  different  tribes,  but  always  preserve  the  same  general  character. 
Quarrelsome  and  cowardly,  inveterate  thieves,  suspicious  and  inquisitive,  they  are  constantly 
engaged  in  fights  among  themselves,  or  in  prowling  around  the  lodges  for  food.  The  approach  of 
a  stranger  is  heralded  by  short,  sharp  yelps,  succeeded  by  a  general  scamper.  They  all  bear  the 
same  mysterious  resemblance  to  the  cayote — the  sharp  muzzle,  erect  ears,  and  stiffly  curling 
tail.  Notwithstanding  their  worthlessness,  they  seem  to  have  a  strong  attachment  to  their  owners, 
and  an  Indian  camp  would  be  a  novelty  without  its  pack  of  curs.  Very  few  characteristic  features 
remain  among  these  people.  Their  long  intercourse  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  of  late 
years  with  the  Americans,  has  obliterated  what  peculiarities  they  may  have  had;  nor  is  there  any 
essential  difference  in  their  habits  or  manners  from  those  of  the  Indians  adjoining  them.  They  use, 
for  the  most  part,  the  arms  and  utensils  of  the  whites,  and  the  gun  has  superseded  the  bow.  The 
pails  and  baskets,  constructed  from  the  bark  of  the  cedars,  saddles  and  fishing  apparatus,  are 
their  principal  articles  of  domestic  manufacture ;  and  even  of  such  things  it  is  almost  as  common 
to  find  the  imported  substitutes. 

In  regard  to  moral  character  they  are  much  superior  to  the  river  Indians  ;  not  that  perfect 
virtue  is  by  any  means  to  be  expected,  but  they  are  more  strict  in  respect  to  their  women,  particu 
larly  the  married  ones,  and  they  are  far  less  thievish. 

Their  mode  of  disposing  of  their  dead,  like  that  of  their  kindred  tribes,  is  in  the  ground,  but 
without  any  attempt  at  coffins,  the  body  being  merely  wrapped  in  its  clothing.V  Just  before  our 
arrival  at  Chequoss  a  man  had  died  of  the  smallpox,  and  those  who  had  buried  him  were  puri 
fying  themselves.  During  the  three  days  occupied  in  this,  they  absented  themselves  from  camp, 
alternately  using  the  sweat-house  and  plunging  into  cold  water. 

The  house,  which  was  a  small  oven-shaped  affair,  was  heated  with  stones.  The  mourning 
is  performed  by  the  women,  who  live  apart  for  a  few  days,  and  afterwards  bathe  and  purify  them 
selves.  They  have  the  common  objection  to  mentioning  the  names  of  the  dead,  as  well  as  their 
own.  The  practice  of  medicine,  as  elsewhere,  consists  in  incantations,  and  is  attended  with  the 
usual  hazards;  the  life  of  the  practitioner  answering  for  the  want  of  success,  or  a  refusal  to 
attend  when  properly  feed.  Besides  these  mummeries,  however,  they  use  certain  plants  as 


406  INDIAN    TRIBES    OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

medicines,  among  which  are  both  emetics  and  cathartics.  The  patriarchal  institutions  of  slavery 
and  polygamy  are  yet  retained  among  them;  the1  number  of  wives  being  limited  only  by  the 
wealth  of  the  husband,  for  with  them  it  is  the  woman  who  is  sold. 

A  curious  custom  exists,  exhibiting  their  savage  ideas  of  equity  as  opposed  to  the  common-law\ 
maxim  of  "  caveat  emptor"  If  a  wife  dies  within  a  short  period  after  marriage,  the  bereatetiji 
husband  may  reclaim  the  consideration  from  the  father;  so  also  with  slaves  andhorses^jn-No 
systematic  attempt  has,  it  is  believed,  been  made  to  convert  the  Klikatats  to  Cnristianity, 
although  many  individuals  have  come  in  contact  with  missionaries  of  some  denomination. 
Several  of  those  at  Chequoss  have  had  instruction  from  the  Rev.  Jason  Lee  and  others,  formerly 
at  the  Dalles. 

The  old  chief  Tow-e-toks  preserved  a  paper  on  which  some  one  made  a  sort  of  calendar  or  record 
of  the  days  of  the  week.  He  expressed  great  anxiety  lest,  as  it  was  nearly  worn  out,  he  should 
be  unable  to  distinguish  the  Sundays,  and  requested  me  to  prepare  him  a  new  one.  He  added 
that  he  was  in  great  fear  of  death,  and  constantly  "talked  to  the  Chief  above."  As  will  readily 
be  imagined,  the  remarkable  features  of  this  mountain  scenery,  and  the  neighborhood  of  the  great 
snow  peaks — Mount  St.  Helens  and  Mount  Adams — give  a  color  to  the  legends  of  the  Klikatats. 
They,  in  common  with  the  other  Oregon  tribes,  seem  to  have  had  no  distinct  religious  ideas 
previous  to  those  introduced  by  the  whites,  nor  any  conception  of  a  Supreme  Being.  Their 
mythology  consists  of  vague  and  incoherent  tales,  in  most  of  which  Ta-la-pus,  or  the  prairie 
wolf,  figures  as  a  supernatural  power.  Besides  him  there  are  other  agents,  among  whom  a  race 
denominated  the  "  Elip  Tibcum,"  from  two  jargon  words  signifying  "first  people,"  or  "people 
before,"  figure  prominently.  Though  trifling  in  themselves,  yet,  as  specimens  of  what  may  be 
considered  the  unwritten  literature  of  the  Indians,  they  may  not  be  uninteresting — the  more 
especially  as  the  belief  in  the  existence  of  those  giants  seems  to  be  of  universal  currency  through 
out  Oregon.  The  following  are  among  them : 

In  descending  the  valley  from  Chequoss,  there  occurs  beneath  a  field  of  lava  a  vaulted 
passage,  some  miles  in  length,  through  which  a  stream  flows  in  the  rainy  season,  and  the  roof 
of  which  has  fallen  in  here  and  there.  Concerning  this  they  relate  that  a  very  long  time  ago, 
before  there  were  any  Indians,  there  lived  in  this  country  a  man  and  wife  of  gigantic  stature. 
The  man  became  tired  of  his  partner,  and  took  to  himself  a  mouse,  which  thereupon  became  a 
woman.  When  the  first  wife  knew  of  this,  she  was  very  naturally  enraged,  and  threatened  to 
kill  them.  This  coming  to  the  man's  knowledge,  he  hid  himself  and  his  mouse-wife  in  a  place 
higher  up  the  mountain,  where  there  is  a  small  lake  having  no  visible  outlet.  The  first  woman 
finding  that  they  had  escaped  her,  and  suspecting  that  they  were  hidden  underground,  com 
menced  digging,  and  tore  up  this  passage.  At  last  she  came  beneath  where  they  stood,  and 
looking  up  through  a  hole,  saw  them  laughing  at  her.  With  great  difficulty,  and  after  sliding 
back  two  or  three  times,  she  succeeded  in  reaching  them ;  when  the  man,  now  much  alarmed, 
begged  her  not  to  kill  him,  but  to  allow  him  to  return  to  their  home  and  live  with  her  as  of  old. 
She  finally  consented  to  kill  only  the  mouse-wife,  which  she  did,  and  it  is  her  blood  that  has 
colored  the  stones  at  the  lake.  After  a  time  the  man  asked  her  why  she  had  wished  to  kill  the  other 
woman.  She  answered,  because  they  had  brought  her  to  shame,  and  that  she  had  a  mind  to  kill 
him  too;  which  she  finally  did,  and  since  when  she  has  lived  alone  in  the  mountains. 

Another  story  about  the  same  place  is  to  the  effect  that  it  was  made  by  a  former  people  called 
the  Siam,  a  name  corresponding  with  the  jargon  word  for  grizzly  bear.  The  mouse  story 
appears  to  be  interwoven  with  the  Klikatat  mythology,  for  besides  the  name  of  this  place, 
Hool-hool-se,  (from  hool-hool,  a  mouse,)  one  of  the  names  of  their  country  is  Hool-hool-pam, 
or  the  mouse-land.  This  is  given  to  it  by  the  Yakimas.  Both  versions,  as  well  as  many  others 
of  their  tales,  refer  to  their  Indian  Pre-adamites,  the  Elip  Tilicum;  to  whom,  and  to  the  Tarla- 
pus,  as  many  wonders  are  attributed  as  among  Christians  to  Satan. 

Concerning  the  Ta-ia-pus,  this  story  is  related  by  the  Klikatats  in  connexion  with  a  favorite 


INDIAN    TRIBES    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  407 

valley — the  Tahk  prairie.  This  was  formerly  the  bed  of  a  lake,  the  remains  of  which  now 
appear  in  a  marshy  pond  of  some  extent.  The  wolf,  when  the  prairie  was  made,  promised  that 
it  should  be  rich  in  their  favorite  roots,  the  kamas  and  the  wapp-a-too;  and  likewise  that  the 
salmon  should  come  there  in  abundance.  But  the  Indians,  forgetful  of  their  obligation  to  him, 
showed  no  gratitude,  arid  when  they  came  there,  spent  their  time  in  horse-racing  and  gambling, 
instead  of  fishing  and  the  business  of  life;  wherefore  the  wolf  took  away  the  salmon,  and  placed 
two  stones  upon  the  prairie,  beyond  which  they  should  not  pass. 

Alas,  for  the  perverseness  of  man!  notwithstanding  the  punishment,  the  Klikatats  and  their 
friends  run  horses  and  gamble  there  to  this  day. 

There  is  also,  in  contrast  with  the  gigantic  race  above  mentioned,  a  story  of  one  of  diminutive 
size,  but  a  span  high,  who  lived  near  the  foot  of  the  St.  Helens,  and  whose  footprints  the  Indians 
have  seen  where  they  held  their  nocturnal  dances.  Since  the  eruption  of  1S42,  it  may  be  men 
tioned,  they  have  not  ventured  to  ascend  Mount  St.  Helens.  They  have  also  tales  connected 
with  certain  of  the  constellations,  many  of  which  are  named.  The  Great  Bear,  for  instance,  is 
called  "spilyeh,"  or  the  wolf.  The  Yakimas  occupy  the  country  drained  by  the  river  of  that 
name.  ^They  are  divided  into  two  principal  bands,  each  made  up  of  a  number  of  villages,  and 
very  closely  connected ;  the  one  owning  the  country  on  the  Nahchess  and  lower  Yakima,  the 
other  upon  the  Wenass  and  main  branch  above  the  forks.  Over  the  first  there  are  three  chiefs — 
Kam-ai-ya-kan  and  his  brothers  Skloo  and  Sha-wa-wai.  Over  the  latter,  Te-eh-yas  and  Ow- 
hai.  Of  all  these,  Kam-ai-ya-kan  possesses  the  greatest  influence,  none  of  the  others  undertaking 
any  matter  of  importance  without  consulting  him.  Skloo  is  accused  of  being  tyrannical  and 
overbearing  with  his  weaker  neighbors,  and  Sha-wa-wai  of  being  indolent  and  wanting  in  force. 

Kam-ai-ya-kan  is,  in  turn,  much  under  the  influence  of  the  missionaries,  with  whom  he  lives 
altogether.  The  others  are  both  intelligent,  and  bear  very  good  characters.  All  of  them  appear 
to  be  well  disposed  and  friendly  towards  the  whites,  whose  superiority  they  have  sense  enough  to 
understand. 

Most  of  what  has  been  said  of  the  Klikatats  is  applicable  also  to  the  Yakimas,  though,  from 
the  nature  of  their  country,  some  difference  in  their  modes  of  life  is  of  course  observable.  Their 
name,  it  may  be  mentioned,  is  not  an  appellation  of  their  own.  It  is  said  to  be  the  word  signifying 
a  black  bear  in  the  Wallah- Wallah  dialect.  West  of  the  mountains,  both  at  Vancouver  and  at 
Puget  sound,  they  also  are  generally  called  Klikatats.  Like  the  last,  they  live  in  rude  huts 
covered  with  mats,  the  distance  of  their  winter  habitations  from  timber  rendering  the  construction 
of  houses  inconvenient;  a  reason,  however,  which  does  not  exist  with  the  others.  They  raise 
potatoes,  a  few  melons  and  squashes,  together  with  a  little  barley  and  Indian  corn.  The  latter 
is  of  the  eight-rowed  variety,  and  what  we  saw  of  it  very  small  and  stunted,  the  ears  being  not 
over  five  inches  long.  The  potatoes  were  generally  very  fine,  and  of  several  varieties;  of  which 
we  noticed  the  lady-finger,  mercer,  and  blue-nose.  Their  gardens  were,  for  the  most  part, 
situated  in  the  little  valleys  running  up  towards  the  mountains,  and  near  enough  to  the  streams 
to  receive  moisture  during  the  early  summer.  They  were  rudely  fenced  around  to  exclude 
animals.  This  invaluable  addition  to  their  means  of  subsistence,  it  should  be  said,  they,  in 
common  with  many  other  tribes,  owe  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  The  country  around  the 
northern  or  main  branch  of  the  Yakima  is  frequently  called  by  them  Pschwan-wapp-am,  or  the 
stony  ground,  and  the  Indians  living  there  sometimes  assume  the  name  to  themselves.  Besides 
the  fisheries  at  the  Dalles,  the  Yakimas  have  others  in  their  river,  up  which  the  salmon  run 
without  interruption  far  into  the  mountains.  On  the  main  fork,  in  particular,  they  penetrate  to 
Lake  Kitchelus,  at  the  very  foot  of  the  dividing  ridge.  In  addition  to  the  different  kinds  of 
salmon  proper,  they  have  also  the  salmon-trout,  two  varieties  of  the  speckled  trout,  the  red  and 
black  spotted,  both  of  them  growing  to  a  large  size;  and  some  other  species  of  fresh- water  fish. 

The  salmon  they  take  in  weirs  and  cast-nets.  The  weirs  are  constructed  with  considerable 
skill,  upon  horizontal  spars,  and  supported  by  tripods  of  strong  poles  erected  at  short  distances 


408  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

apart,  two  of  the  legs  fronting  up  stream,  and  one  supporting  them  below.  There  are  several 
of  these  weirs  on  the  main  river  fifty  or  sixty  yards  in  length.  The  cast-nets  are  managed  by 
two  men  in  a  canoe,  one  of  whom  extends  it  with  a  pole  and  the  other  manages  the  rope.  Their 
canoes  are  of  very  rude  workmanship,  compared  with  those  belonging  to  tribes  of  more  aquatic 
habits,  being  simply  logs  hollowed  out  and  sloped  up  at  the  ends,  without  form  or  finish. 

Another  article  of  food  obtained  from  the  rivers  is  the  unis,  or  fresh-water  muscle,  of  which 
there  are  several  varieties.  Deep  beds  of  their  shells  are  found  near  the  sites  of  villages  on  the 
river. 

Of  game  the  Yakima  country  is  as  destitute  as  that  of  the  Klikatats — so  much  so  that  ten  deer 
skins  will  purchase  a  horse.  The  sage-fowl  and  sharp-tailed  grouse  are  abundant.  The  chiefs 
possess  a  considerable  number  of  cattle,  which,  in  the  summer,  find  good  bunch-grass  on  the 
hills.  In  winter  they  are  driven  to  great  straits  for  subsistence,  being  compelled,  when  the  snow 
lies  deep,  as  it  does  in  the  valleys,  to  browse  upon  the  tops  of  the  wild  sage,  or  artemisia.  In 
horses  they  are  well  off,  though  not  rich  as  compared  with  adjoining  tribes.  A  portion  of  the 
Yakimas,  more  particularly  those  living  on  the  main  river,  in  hunters'  language,  "go  to  buffalo," 
joining  the  Flatheads  in  their  hunts;  but  these  expeditions  are  probably  far  more  rare  than 
formerly,  when,  with  greater  numbers,  they  and  their  allies  carried  war  against  the  Blackfect 
beyond  the  mountains.  With  the  tribes  on  Puget  sound  they  communicate  continually  during 
the  summer  by  the  Nahchess  and  main  Yakima  passes,  taking  horses  for  sale  to  Nisqually,  and 
purchasing  "hai-qua,"  dried  clams,  and  other  savage  merchandise,  on  their  return.  The  Yakimas 
have,  like  the  Klikatats,  during  the  past  year  suffered  severely  from  the  smallpox;  the  village 
at  the  Dalles  in  particular,  the  Wish-ram  of  evil  notoriety,  in  Mr.  Irving's  Astoria,  having  been 
depopulated. 

Individuals  among  them  profess  to  have  some  remedy  for  the  disease.  Father  Pandozy,  one  of 
the  missionaries  among  them,  informed  me  that  he  believed  it  to  be  the  root  of  a  species  of 
iris.  He  had  once  tasted  it,  and  it  acted  as  a  violent  emetic.  The  Spokanes  have  also  an 
other  and  different  specific.  It  is  known  to  but  few  persons,  having  been  gradually  forgotten 
since  the  former  visitation.  Recently,  when  it  broke  out  in  one  of  the  Spokane  villages,  an  old 
woman,  who  was  blind,  described  it  to  her  daughter  and  directed  her  to  proceed  towards  Kam- 
ai-ya-kans,  and  that  if  she  encountered  none  in  her  way,  to  get  from  him  some  of  that  which 
he  used.  The  girl,  however,  did  find  the  herb  and  returned  with  it.  The  mother  prepared 
the  medicine,  and  the  smallpox  was  stayed,  but  not  until  it  had  nearly  destroyed  the  village. 
We  were  not  successful  in  obtaining  specimens  of  this  plant,  but  Father  Pandozy  kindly  prom 
ised  to  save  some  when  opportunity  offered.  In  regard  to  this  disease,  the  greatest  scourge 
of  the  red  man,  it  has  passed  through  this  region  more  than  once,  and  was  probably  the  first 
severe  blow  which  fell  upon  the  Oregon  tribes.  Its  appearance  seems  to  have  been  before  any 
direct  intercourse  took  place  with  the  whites,  and  it  may  have  found  its  way  northward  from 
California.  Captains  Lewis  and  Clark  conjectured,  from  the  relations  of  the  Indians,  and  the 
apparent  age  of  individuals  marked  with  it,  that  it  had  prevailed  about  thirty  years  before  their 
arrival.  It  also  spread  with  great  virulence  in  1843.  From  the  other,  and  no  less  sure,  de 
stroyer  of  the  coast  tribes,  the  venereal,  the  Yakimas,  and  generally  the  Indians  east  of  the 
mountains,  are,  as  yet,  exempt.  Spirituous  liquors  have  never  been  introduced  into  their  coun 
try,  at  least  beyond  the  neighborhood  of  the  Dalles. 

That  a  population  very  considerably  more  numerous  than  the  existing  one  formerly  occupied 
this  region,  there  can  be  no  doubt.  The  estimates  of  Lewis  and  Clark  gave  a  sum  of  3,240 
for  the  bands  on  the  Klikatat  and  Yakima  rivers,  without  including  those  upon  the  Columbia, 
which  amounted  to  3,000  in  addition.  The  whole  course  of  the  Yakima  is  lined  with  the  ves 
tiges  of  former  villages  now  vacant.  A  very  interesting  subject  of  inquiry  has  been  pursued  by 
Mr.  Schoolcraft,  in  his  endeavor  to  follow  the  earth-works  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  valley 
into  the  region  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  A  careful  inquiry  among  the  officers  of  the 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OP   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  409 

Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  the  most  intelligent  free  trappers  of  Oregon,  had  satisfied  me 
that  none  sueh  existed  in  the  country.  During  an  examination  of  the  lower  Yakima,  however, 
the  old  Indian  guide  who  accompanied  me  pointed  out,  on  the  left  bank,  a  work  which  may 
possibly  be  considered  as  belonging  to  the  same  system,  although  being,  so  far  as  is  known, 
a  solitary  one,  it  is  somewhat  questionable. 

The  work  consists  of  two  concentric  circles  of  earth  about  three  feet  high,  with  a  ditch  be 
tween.  Within  are  about  twenty  cellars  situated  without  apparent  design,  except  economy  of 
room.  They  are  some  thirty  feet  across  and  three  feet  deep,  and  the  whole  circle  eighty 
yards  in  diameter.  We  had  no  time  to  examine  it  more  particularly,  and  no  tools  to  excavate. 
The  ground  was  overgrown  with  arternisia  bushes,  but,  except  the  form  of  the  work,  there  was 
nothing  to  attract  particular  attention,  or  lead  to  the  belief  that  it  was  the  remains  of  any  other 
than  a  Yakima  village.  Our  guide,  however,  who  was  great  authority  on  such  matters,  de 
clared  that  it  was  made  very  long  ago,  by  men  of  whom  his  people  knew  nothing.  He  added 
that  there  was  no  other  like  it.  It  is  well  posted  for  defence  in  Indian  warfare,  being  on  the 
edge  of  a  terrace  about  fifteen  feet  high,  a  short  distance  from  the  river,  and  flanked  on  either 
side  by  a  gully. 

Outside  of  the  circle,  but  quite  near  it,  are  other  cellars  unenclosed,  and  in  no  way  differing 
from  the  remains  of  villages  frequently  met  with  there.  The  Indian  also  pointed  out,  near  by, 
a  low  hill  or  spur,  which  in  form  might  be  supposed  to  resemble  an  inverted  canoe,  and  which 
he  said  was  a  ship.  It  deserves  investigation,  at  least,  whether  any  relation  can  be  traced  be 
tween  the  authors  of  this  and  of  the  mounds  in  Sacramento  valley,  yet  occupied  by  existing 
tribes.  In  this  connexion  may  also  be  mentioned  a  couple  of  modern  fortifications  erected  by  the 
Yakimas  upon  the  Simkwe  fork.  They  are  situated  between  two  small  branches  upon  the  sum 
mit  of  a  narrow  ridge,  some  two  hundred  yards  long,  and  thirty  feet  in  height,  and  are  about 
twenty-five  yards  apart.  The  first  is  a  square,  with  rounded  corners,  formed  by  an  earthen 
embankment  capped  with  stones,  the  interstices  between  which  serve  for  loop-holes,  and  with 
out  any  ditch.  It  is  about  thirty  feet  on  the  sides,  and  the  wall  three  feet  high.  The  other 
is  built  of  adobes  in  the  form  of  a  rectangle,  twenty  by  thirty-four  feet,  the  walls  three  feet 
high  and  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  thick,  with  loop-holes  six  feet  apart.  Both  are  com 
manded  within  rifle-shot  by  neighboring  hills.  They  were  erected  in  1847,  by  Skloo,  as  a  de 
fence  against  the  Cayuses.  We  did  not  learn  whether  they  were  successfully  maintained, 
accounts  varying  greatly  on  this  subject.  In  the  same  neighborhood  we  noticed  small  piles 
of  stones  raised  by  the  Indians  on  the  edges  of  the  basaltic  walls  which  enclose  these  val 
leys,  but  were  informed  that  they  had  no  purpose — they  were  put  up  through  idleness.  Simi 
lar  piles  are,  however,  sometimes  erected  to  mark  the  fork  of  a  trail.  At  points  on  these  walls 
there  were  also  many  graves,  generally  made  in  regular  form,  covered  with  loose  stones  to  pro 
tect  them  from  the  cayotes,  and  marked  by  poles  decorated  with  tin  cups,  powder-horns,  and 
articles  of  dress.  During  the  summer  the  Indians,  for  the  most  part,  live  in  the  small  valleys 
lying  well  into  the  toot  of  the  mountains.  These  are,  however,  uninhabitable  during  the  winter, 
and  they  move  farther  down,  or  to  more  sheltered  situations.  The  mission,  which  in  summer  is 
maintained  in  the  Atahnam  valley,  is  transferred  into  that  of  the  main  river.  There  are  two 
priests  attached  to  this  mission,  belonging  to  the  order  of  the  Oblats,  Fathers  Pandozy  and 
d'Harbomey.  The  stations  are  small  log  buildings,  divided  into  a  chapel  and  lodging-room, 
with  a  corral  for  horses  and  a  spot  of  enclosed  garden  ground  adjoining  the  one  at  Atahnam. 
The  fathers  informed  us  that  they  found  the  Yakimas  not  very  teachable,  and  that  they  had 
accomplished  little  except  as  peacemakers;  the  Indians  were  lazy  and  cultivated  the  ground 
with  but  little  regularity,  some  years  not  planting  at  all.  They  did  not  believe  that  a  resident 
farmer  would  be  of  use.  The  Indians,  however,  say,  and  justly,  that  they  have  no  tools,  and 
but  little  inducement  to  labor,  their  country  affording  other  subsistence,  and  the  toil  of  planting 
with  their  own  rude  implements  not  being  compensated  by  the  result.  With  proper  encourage- 
52/ 


410  INDIAN    TRIBES   OP   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

ment,  and  assistance  in  breaking  up  the  ground,  they  would  doubtless  do  more.  It  is  probably 
an  object  with  the  missionaries  to  discourage  secular  residents,  who  might  divide  their  own 
influence  over  the  natives. 

The  courteous  attention  of  these  gentlemen  to  the  officers  of  the  expedition  requires  acknow 
ledgment.  They  furnished  all  the  information  in  their  power  respecting  the  country,  secured  good 
guides  to  the  parties,  and  acted  as  interpreters  with  the  Indians.  Father  Pandozy,  in  particular, 
is  familiarly  acquainted  with  the  Yakima  tongue.  Kam-ai-ya-kan  is  the  only  one  of  the  three 
brothers  who  has  adopted  even  the  forms  of  Catholicism,  and  he  refuses  to  be  baptised,  because 
he  would  be  compelled  to  put  away  his  surplus  wives,  of  whom  he  has  several.  Skloo  and 
Sha  wa-wai  are  unchanged  heathens. 

On  leaving  the  Klikatat  country,  Captain  McClellan  had  made  a  small  present  to  the  chief 
Tow-e-toks,  and  distributed  some  tobacco  among  the  men.  It  was  not,  however,  considered  ne 
cessary  to  enter  into  a  formal  talk  with  that  tribe,  the  object  of  our  visit,  and  some  other  points, 
bein<*  casually  explained  to  them.  With  the  Yakimas  the  case  was  different.  Their  country  was 
to  become  a  thoroughfare  for  the  whites,  and  it  was  very  important  that  a  proper  impression 
should  be  made,  and  a  friendly  understanding  established.  On  leaving  the  mountains  we  first 
encountered  Skloo,  a  tall,  fine  looking,  but  very  dark-skinned  man,  who  came  up  to  camp  attended 
by  Wee-ni-nah,  a  sub-chief,  living  at  the  village  of  Skin,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Des  Chules 
river.  We  had  already  met  with  an  amusing  instance  of  Indian  craft,  in  which  Skloo  proved  to 
have  been  the  operator.  A  small  party  of  Indians  had  come  on  to  Chequoss,  and  stated  that 
they  had  been  told  the  expedition  was  out  for  the  purpose  of  seizing  the  horses  and  cattle  of  the 
Yakimas,  taking  their  country,  and  destroying  them  if  they  resisted ;  that  Lieutenant  Saxton's 
party  had  proceeded  against  the  Spokanes  for  the  same  purpose,  and  that  Kam-ai-ya-kan  and 
Skloo  were  determined  to  oppose  us.  The  report  had  created  no  uneasiness,  except  lest  it  should 
alarm  the  Indians,  and  prevent  the  necessary  intercourse  with  them.  Skloo  being  now  ques 
tioned  as  to  the  author  of  the  report,  stated  that  it  was  a  Frenchman,  in  charge  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  train,  who  on  his  way  to  Fort  Colville  had  preceded  Lieutenant  Saxton  a  few 
days.  As  the  story  had  already  caused  us  some  inconvenience,  in  preventing  us  from  obtaining 
a  guide,  and  as  it  was  feared  that  more  serious  annoyance  would  result  to  the  other  party, 
Captain  McClellan  forwarded  a  complaint  on  the  subject  to  Governor  Ogden,  at  Fort  Van 
couver.  It  subsequently  appeared  that  the  person  referred  to  was  a  gentleman  far  above  the 
suspicion  of  any  such  conduct,  and  that  the  whole  was  a  fabrication  got  up  by  Skloo  himself, 
for  the  purpose  of  fishing  out  the  object  of  the  expedition.  A  short  talk  was  held  with  him  by 
Captain  McClellan,  explaining  this  to  his  entire  content,  and  in  turn  he  gave  what  information  he 
possessed  respecting  the  mountain  trails.  In  justice  to  him,  it  should  be  said,  the  more  espe 
cially  as  he  has  but  few  friends,  that  his  manly  deportment  left  a  more  favorable  impression  than 
did  some  who  bore  a  far  better  character.  A  small  present  was  given  him  on  parting. 

Kam-ai-ya-kan  we  found  at  the  mission,  and  he  afterwards  came  over  to  the  camp  at  Wenass 
for  a  formal  visit.  He  is  a  large,  gloomy -looking  Indian,  with  a  very  long  and  strongly-marked 
face;  slovenly  in  dress,  but  said  to  be  generous  and  honest.  Captain  McClellan  explained  to  him 
the  general  nature  of  the  American  government,  as  far  as  was  necessary  for  him  to  understand, 
and  the  rank  that  Governor  Stevens,  who  was  coming  with  a  party  across  the  mountains,  would 
hold  in  the  country.  He  expressed  the  hope  that  the  good  disposition  which  Kam-ai-ya-kan 
had  shown  towards  the  whites  would  be  maintained;  that  if  any  injury  was  done  by  them  to  his 
people,  they  were  not  to  seek  revenge,  but  complain  to  the  Governor,  who  would  redress  it;  and 
that  if  any  was  suffered  from  the  Indians,  he  would  expect  him  to  punish  the  offender.  It  was 
the  intention  of  the  whites  to  make  a  wagon  road  across  the  mountains,  and  many  would  un 
doubtedly  pass  through  their  country.  Should  they  be  in  need,  he  wished  Kam-ai-ya-kan  to 
assist  them.  Their  coming  would  be  an  advantage  to  his  people,  for  they  would  buy  their  pota 
toes,  and  exchange  cattle  which  had  become  tired  with  long  travel,  for  his,  which  were  fat,  giv- 


INDIAN   TRIBES  OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  411 

ing  him  boot.  In  conclusion,  he  added  that  the  great  white  chief  had  instructed  him,  when  he 
met  with  friendly  chiefs  among  the  Indians,  to  give  them  a  present  as  coming  from  him.  A  quan 
tity  of  Indian  goods  were  thereupon  given  him.  Kam-ai-ya-kan  made  a  suitable  reply,  in  which 
he  referred  to  a  subject  previously  mentioned  by  Skloo — the  negotiations  of  white  men  pretend 
ing  to  be  chiefs,  who  were  not,  paiticularly  in  regard  to  the  purchase  of  their  lands.  He  had 
heard  they  would  give  a  few  presents,  and  then  pretend  they  had  purchased  the  land.  Captain 
McClellan  informed  him  who  were  the  persons  having  the  power  to  make  these  purchases,  or 
to  treat  with  them,  with  which  he  expressed  himself  satisfied. 

At  Ketetas,  on  the  main  Yakima,  we  were  visited  by  Ow-hai,  one  of  the  two  principal  chiefs 
of  the  northern  band  of  this  tribe.  His  elder  brother,  Te-eh-yas,  had  gone  to  Puget  sound,  and 
we  did  not  see  him.  Ow-hai  appears  to  be  forty-five  or  fifty  years  of  age,  and  has  a  very  pleasant 
face,  with  a  high  but  retreating  forehead,  of  which  he  is  somewhat  vain.  In  speaking  of  Kam-ai- 
ya-kan,  he  remarked  that  he  had  a  big  head,  and  thought  much;  adding,  as  he  touched  his  own, 
"  like  myself." 

He  remained  with  us  during  our  stay,  and  afterwards  accompanied  the  party  as  far  as  the 
Pisquouse.  In  a  talk  with  him  the  same  information  was  communicated,  in  substance,  as  that 
given  to  Kam  ai-ya-kan.  This  band  trades  much  more  with  the  Sound  than  Kam-ai-ya-kan's, 
and  is,  therefore,  better  acquainted  with  trails ;  the  one  which  proved  on  examination  the  best, 
leading  directly  up  the  river  from  our  camp.  After  the  usual  custom  of  seeking  wives  in  adjoin 
ing  tribes,  they  are  much  intermingled  with  the  Snoqualme  on  the  western  side  of  the  Cas 
cades,  as  well  as  the  Pisquouse  to  the  northward.  The  latter,  in  fact,  speak  indifferently  the 
Yakima  and  their  own  languages.  We  found  the  people  here  much  better  dressed  than  those 
below.  The  young  men  and  women  affected  more  of  their  native  costume  than  the  old.  Ow- 
hai's  two  sons,  both  tall,  handsome  men,  had  their  blankets  and  dress  profusely  ornamented,  and 
the  wife  of  one  of  them,  a  very  pretty  woman,  wore  a  dress  stiff'  with  bead-work  and  por 
cupine  quills.  Ow-hai  himself,  on  the  other  hand,  appeared  in  a  full  American  suit,  and  touched 
his  hat  by  way  of  salutation — a  compliment  which  he  clearly  expected  to  be  noticed  and 
returned.  He,  like  Kam-ai-ya-kan,  has  adopted  some  of  the  forms  of  Catholicism,  and  professes 
to  pray  habitually,  but  there  seemed  to  be  a  shadow  of  hypocrisy  in  his  devotion.  He  is,  how 
ever,  a  man  of  very  considerable  understanding  and  policy,  and  inclined  to  profit  by  the  example 
of  the  whites. 

On  striking  the  Columbia  after  passing  the  mountains,  between  the  Yakima  country  and  the 
Pisquouse,  Ow-hai  pointed  out  to  us  one  of  the  lions  of  the  country,  in  the  shape  of  two  columns 
of  sandstone  standing  together,  but  apart  from  the  bluff,  which  was  of  similar  material.  These, 
he  told  us,  were  "  Ahn-cotte ;"  or,  in  the  language  of  the  fairy  tales,  "  once  upon  a  time"  two 
women  of  the  race  of  "  Elip  Tilicum,"  who  lived  here,  and  were  very  bad,  being  in  the  habit  of 
killing  those  who  passed  by,  the  Indians  begged  the  Great  Spirit  to  destroy  them,  and 
He  granting  their  prayer,  sent  an  enormous  bird  which  picked  out  their  brains,  and  then  turned 
them  into  stone.  In  proof  of  which,  the  narrator  pointed  out  a  hole  in  the  top  of  one  of  the 
columns,  from  which  a  boulder  had  fallen,  as  the  aperture  broken  by  the  bird  in  extracting  his 
meal.  A  short  distance  beyond,  he  turned  a  little  off  the  trail  to  point  out  to  us  another  curiosity. 
It  was  a  perpendicular  rock,  on  the  face  of  which  were  carved  sundry  figures,  most  of  them 
intended  for  men.  They  were  slightly  sunk  into  the  sandstone  and  colored,  some  black,  others 
red,  and  traces  of  paint  remained  more  or  less  distinctly  on  all  of  them.  These  also,  according 
to  their  report,  were  the  work  of  the  ancient  race ;  but  from  the  soft  nature  of  the  rock,  and 
the  freshness  of  some  of  the  paint,  they  were  probably  not  of  extreme  antiquity. 

Nothing  could,  in  this  connexion,  be  ascertained  from  the  Indians,  whether  they  had  any  tradi 
tions  of  their  own  migration  frorn  another  country. 

With  the  exception  of  the  district  occupied  by  the  Flatbows  and  Kootenaies,  the  remaining 
country  north  of  the  forty-seventh  parallel  is  occupied  by  different  tribes  of  the  Selish  or  Flathead 


412  INDIAN    TRIBES    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

nation.  These  may  bo  divided  for  the  present  purpose  into  the  following  :  the  Pisqnouse,  Okina- 
kane,  Schwo-yelpi  or  Keltle  Falls,  Spokane,  Coeur  d'Alene,  upper  and  lower  Pend  d'Oreilles,  and 
Selish  or  Flathead  proper. 

The  country  of  the  Pisquouse  lies  immediately  north  of  that  of  the  Yakimas,  and  we  entered 
it  next  upon  our  route.  Under  this  appellation  are  here  included  the  Indians  on  the  Columbia 
between  the  Priest's  and  Ross  rapids,  on  the  Pisquouse  or  Winatshapam  river,  the  En-te-at-kwu, 
Chelan  lake,  and  the  Methow  or  Barrier  river.  The  name  of  Pisquouse,  however,  properly 
refers  to  a  single  locality  on  the  river,  known  to  the  Yakimas  as  Winatshapam. 

The  Pisquouse  themselves,  as  has  before  been  remarked,  are  so  much  intermarried  with  the 
Yakimas  that  they  have  almost  lost  their  nationality.  These  bands  were  formerly  all  united 
under  one  principal  chief,  Stal-koo-sum,  who  is  said  to  have  been  a  man  of  great  note  among  them. 
He  was  killed  a  few  years  since  in  a  fight  with  the  Blackfeet,  since  when  there  has  been  no 
head  of  the  tribe.  Stal-koo-s  urn's  son,  Quil-tan-ei-nok,  or  Louis,  was  an  aspirant  for  his  lather's 
throne,  and  came  over  to  Ketetas  to  recommend  himself  to  Captain  McClellan's  patronage,  under 
the  tuition  of  Ow-hai,  who  seemed  to  be  interested  in  his  promotion.  It  was  considered  desiraole 
to  unite  the  scattered  fragments  of  the  empire  under  one  head,  if  possible,  and  he  was  therefore 
engaged  as  a  guide,  the  better  to  ascertain  his  character.  It  should  be  remarked,  that  though 
the  chiefdom  of  the  petty  bands,  or  villages,  seems  to  be  hereditary,  it  does  not  always  follow 
that  one  who  has  placed  himself  at  the  head  of  the  tribe,  or  confederacy,  transmits  his  power. 
Quil-tan-ei-nok  had,  as  we  learned,  used  great  efforts  to  succeed  in  this  object  of  his  ambition » 
having  gone  to  the  Sound,  and  even  to  the  Willamette  valley,  to  procure  a  paper  from  some 
agent  recognising  his  rights,  on  the  strength  of  which  he  might  silence  all  cavillers.  In  this  he  had 
been  hitherto  unsuccessful,  and  he  was  doomed  to  further  disappointment.  On  reaching  the  mouth 
of  the  Pisquouse,  Captain  McClellan  informed  the  Indians  that  it  would  be  well  for  them  to 
choose,  in  concert  with  their  neighbors,  a  head  chief,  who  would  represent  them  all,  and  who 
might  talk  for  them  with  the  chief  of  the  whites;  that  if  they  would  agree  among  themselves 
upon  a  proper  person,  the  Governor  would  give  him  a  great  writing,  signifying  his  consent.  In 
the  mean  time  some  presents  were  distributed;  that  to  Quil-tan-ei-nok  being  the  largest,  that  he 
might  have  honor  among  his  own  people  at  least.  When  the  election  came  off',  however,  he  was 
beaten,  and  by  a  candidate  whose  name  had  never  previously  been  mentioned.  At  this  place  we 
were  offered  the  entertainment  of  a  horse-race,  and  on  promising  a  yard  of  red  cloth  as  the  piize 
of  victory,  a  general  enthusiasm  seized  upon  the  whole  tribe.  Horses  were  sought  in  every  direc 
tion,  that  would  stand  a  chance  of  winning,  and  in  a  short  time  a  dozen  of  the  best  came  up  to 
the  starting-point.  A  goal  was  fixed  en  the  plain,  at  some  distance,  which  they  were  to  turn 
around  and  return  ;  and  at  a  signal  from  the  chief  they  stripped — not  the  horses,  but  the  riders ; 
doffing  their  blankets  and  other  inconvenient  articles,  and  appearing  in  costumes  of  primitive 
simplicity.  One  rider  wore  a  pair  of  moccasins,  and  another  sported  a  shirt ;  while  with  a  third 
a  streak  or  two  of  red  paint,  judiciously  disposed,  gave  every  requisite  distinction.  There  was 
some  very  pretty  running,  and  still  better  jockeying;  but  as  the  distance  was  unmeasured,  and 
nobody  took  note  of  the  time,  an  official  report  cannot  be  given.  The  winner,  who  rode  a  hand 
some  gray  gelding,  carried  off  a  prize  that  a  few  years  before  was  worth  as  much  as  his  horse. 

The  Okinakanes  comprise  the  bands  lying  on  the  river  of  that  name  as  far  north  as  the  foot 
of  the  Great  lake.  They  are  six  in  number,  viz:  the  T'Kwuratum,  at  the  mouth;  Konekonl'p, 
on  the  creek  of  that  name;  Kluckhaitkwu,  at  the  falls;  Kinakanes,  near  the  forks;  and  Mila- 
kitekwa,  on  the  west  fork.  With  them  may  be  classed  the  N'pockle,  or  Sans  Puelles,  on  the 
Columbia  river;  though  these  are  also  claimed  by  the  Spokanes.  The  two  bands  on  the  forks 
are  more  nearly  connected  with  the  Schwoyelpi  than  with  the  ones  first  named.  The  country  of 
the  Pisquouse  and  Okinakanes  may  be  described  together,  arid  briefly.  It  is  mountainous  and 
sterile,  the  valleys  narrow,  and  affording  here  and  there  spots  susceptible  of  cultivation.  For 


INDIAN   TRIBES   OF  WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  413 

grazing  it  is  as  little  adapted;  and  there  is,  in  its  whole  extent,  nothing  to  tempt  encroachment 
upon  its  miserable  owners. 

During  Captain  McClellan's  examination  of  the  Methow  river,  six  of  the  bands,  belonging  in 
part  to  each  tribe,  agreed  upon  Ke-keh-tum-nouse,  or  Pierre,  an  Indian  from  Klahum,  the  site  of 
Astor's  old  fort,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Okinakane,  as  their  chief. 

The  occasion  furnished  an  opportunity  of  making  an  actual  count,  which  for  these  six  bands 
gave  a  total  of  274.  The  remainder  would,  according  to  our  observations,  raise  the  number  of 
Indians  south  of  the  49th  degree,  and  between  the  Columbia  and  the  Cascade  mountains,  to  550  ; 
a  larger  one  than  was  expected.  As  the  smallpox  was  at  its  height,  however,  this  is  doubtless 
already  much  diminished.  During  the  whole  route  we  found  the  disease  prevailing  to  a  fearful 
extent.  Several  villages  had  been  nearly  cut  off;  and  we  saw,  at  some  places,  the  dead  left 
unburied  on  the  surface  of  the  ground.  These  tribes  have  no  cattle,  and  but  comparatively  few 
horses.  They  told  us  that  formerly  they  had  many,  but  that  the  company  had  purchased  them 
for  food;  and  they  complained  bitterly  that  the  shirts  and  other  articles  given  them  in  exchange 
were  worn  out,  and  nothing  was  left  them  but  their  new  religion.  At  Fort  Okinakane  we 
observed  a  mode  of  disposing  of  the  dead  differing  from  any  before  noticed.  They  were  wrapped 
in  their  blankets,  or  other  clothing,  and  bound  up  right  to  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  at  a  sufficient 
distance  from  the  ground  to  preserve  them  from  wild  animals.  Notwithstanding  the  climate,  none 
of  these  Indians  have  a  better  shelter  than  is  furnished  by  their  mats.  They  raise  some  potatoes, 
but  their  main  resource  is  salmon.  These,  at  the  time  of  their  visit,  actually  filled  the  streams. 
In  the  Okinakane,  in  particular,  there  were  myriads  of  a  small  species,  which  had  assumed  a 
uniform  red  color.  They  were  depositing  their  spawn,  and  were  in  a  condition  eatable  only  by 
Indians,  who  were  busily  engaged  in  drying  them. 

On  leaving  Fort  Okinakane,  the  new  chief  accompanied  the  party  to  Fort  Colville  in  the 
capacity  of  a  guide,  assisted  by  two  of  his  subjects;  and  the  cavalcade  was  enlarged  at  the  lake 
by  the  chief  of  the  Saht-lil-kwu  band,  a  religious  personage,  who  sported  the  title  of  King 
George,  and  persecuted  us  nightly  with  family  worship.  We  parted  with  the  whole  with  the  loss 
of  much  tobacco  and  few  regrets.  Fort  Colville  is  the  principal  ground  of  the  Schwoyelpi,  or 
Kettle  Falls  tribe,  one  of  the  largest  of  the  Selish. 

According  to  the  information  received  from  Father  Joset,  of  the  Jesuit  mission,  they  number 
from  five  to  six  hundred.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  the  greater  part  had  gone  to  the  buffalo  hunt. 
They  do  not  obtain  many  furs,  the  greater  part  of  those  taken  at  this  post  coming  from  the  upper 
Columbia.  The  fishery  at  the  Kettle  falls  is  one  of  the  most  important  on  the  river ;  and  the 
arrangements  of  the  Indians,  in  the  shape  of  dry  ing- scaffolds  and  stone  houses,  are  on  a  corre 
sponding  scale.  They  take  the  fish  by  suspending  immense  baskets  upon  poles  beneath  the  traps, 
into  which  the  salmon  spring.  We  saw  here,  for  the  first  time,  the  canoe  used  upon  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Columbia.  It  is  of  birch  bark,  and  of  a  form  peculiar  to  these  rivers,  being  longer 
on  the  bottom  than  on  the  top.  A  canoe,  of  thirty  feet  in  length  on  the  floor,  is  open  only  about 
twenty-four  feet,  and  gathered  to  a  point  about  three  feet  long  at  each  end.  They  are  stretched 
on  a  light  frame  of  split  twigs,  and  are  at  once  fast  and  buoyant.  The  mission  is  situated  upon  a 
high  bluff  above  the  falls,  and  consists  of  a  small  house  for  the  priest  and  a  chapel.  Around  these 
are  a  number  of  huts  and  store-houses  belonging  to  the  Indians;  the  latter  raised  from  the  ground 
on  posts.  Fathers  Louis  and  Joset,  of  the  Order  of  Jesuits,  are  stationed  here.  Our  visit  admitted 
of  but  little  opportunity  of  gathering  further  information  concerning  the  Indians  than  what  has 
already  been  published.  The  few  who  were  present  were  assembled  by  Governor  Stevens,  who 
addressed  them.  They  have  no  head  chief  of  note,  and  there  were  present  on  the  occasion  only 
Klekahkalii,  the  chief  at  the  falls;  Kuiltkuiltlouis,  a  sub-chief;  and  tlimiklka,  the  son  of  a  former 
chief  of  this  place. 

The  last  was  highly  spoken  of  by  Mr.  McDonald,  but  did  not  seem  to  be  in  equal  favor  at  the 
mission.  We  learned  that  but  few  of  the  original  Schwoyelpi  stock  remained  ;  they  had  gradually 


414  INDIAN    TRIBES  OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

become  extinct,  and  their  places  were  filled  by  people  from  the  adjoining  bands.  The  smallpox 
had  as  yet  made  no  great  inroads  on  this  band ;  its  general  course  seemingly  having  been  up  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Columbia.  One  case  had,  however,  occurred  at  the  time  of  our  arrival.  On 
the  route  from  Fort  Colville  to  Wallah-Wallah  the  party  passed  the  old  Chernakane  mission,  the 
former  station  of  Messrs.  Walker  and  Eels.  The  house  was  still  standing,  and  occupied  by  an 
American.  This  is  the  country  of  the  Spokanes,  who  are  next  to  be  noticed. 

The  Spokehnish,  or  Spokanes,  lie  south  of  the  Schwoyelpi,  and  chiefly  upon  or  near  the 
Spokane  river.  The  name  applied  by  the  whites  to  a  number  of  small  bands,  is  that  given  by  the 
Coeur  d'Alenes  to  the  one  living  at  the  forks.  They  are  also  called  Sinkoman  by  the  Kootenaies. 
These  bands  are  eight  in  number:  the  Sin-slik-hoo-ish,  on  the  great  plain  above  the  crossings  of 
the  Coeur  d'Alene  river;  the  Sintootoolish,  on  the  river  above  the  forks;  the  Sma-hoo-men-a-ish, 
(Spokenish.)  at  the  forks;  the  Skai-schil-t'nish,  at  the  old  Chemakane  mission;  the  Ske-chei-a- 
mouse,  above  them  on  the  Colville  trail;  the  Schu-el-stish ;  the  Sin-poil-schne,  and  Sin-spee-lish, 
on  the  Columbia  river ;  the  last-named  band  is  nearly  extinct.  The  Sin-poil-schne  (N'pochele, 
or  Sans  Puelles)  have  already  been  included  among  the  Okinakanes,  though,  as  well  as  the  Sin- 
spee-lish  below  them,  they  are  claimed  by  the  Spokanes.  The  three  bands  on  the  Columbia  all 
speak  a  different  language  from  the  rest.  Most  of  the  Indians,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  were 
absent  on  their  hunt,  and  we  had  no  opportunities  of  estimating  their  number  by  inspection. 
Judging  from  those  that  we  saw,  and  the  inibrmation  received  from  various  sources,  they  probably 
amount,  excluding  those  enumerated  at  Okinakane,  to  four  hundred  and  fifty.  They  were  a  wilder- 
looking  race  than  the  tribes  to  the  westward.  The  men  are  generally  spare,  even  when  young, 
and  soon  become  withered. 

Their  principal  chief  is  Spokane  Garry,  whose  name  was  bestowed  upon  him  by  Governor 
Sir  George  Simpson,  by  whom  he  was  sent,  when  about  twelve  years  old,  to  the  Red  river  for 
education,  where  he  spent  five  years.  Garry  is  now  about  forty-two  years  of  age,  is  very  intel 
ligent,  and  speaks  English  fluently.  He  bears  an  excellent  character,  and  is  what  he  claims  to 
be,  and  what  few  are  among  these  tribes,  a  chief.  Of  petty  chiefs  there  are,  besides,  an  abun 
dance,  each  band  having  two  or  three.  Garry  himself  accompanied  us  to  the  forks  of  the  Spo 
kane,  where  his  band  usually  reside.  A  few  lodges,  chiefly  of  old  men  and  women,  were  there 
at  the  time.  His  own,  in  neatness  and  comfort,  was  far  beyond  any  we  had  seen.  His  family 
were  dressed  in  the  costume  of  the  whites,  which  in  fact  now  prevails  over  their  own.  Many  of 
the  Spokanes,  besides  their  intercourse  with  the  fort,  visit  the  American  settlements,  where  they 
earn  money  by  occasional  work,  most  of  which  is  spent  in  clothing,  blankets,  &c.  The  chief 
offered  us  the  hospitality  of  his  house  with  much  cordiality — a  cup  of  tea  or  coffee  and  bread. 
The  "  Spokane  House,"  which  is  a  landmark  upon  all  the  maps  of  this  country,  was  an  old 
Hudson's  Bay  fort,  situated  at  his  village,  but  has  long  since  been  destroyed. 

This  tribe  claim  as  their  territory  the  country  commencing  on  the  large  plain  at  the  head  of  the 
Slawntehus — the  stream  entering  the  Columbia  at  Fort  Colville ;  thence  down  the  Spokane  to 
the  Columbia,  down  the  Columbia  half-way  to  Fort  Okinakane,  and  up  the  Spokane  and  Coeur 
d'Alene,  to  some  point  between  the  falls  and  the  lake,  on  the  latter.  There  is  in  this  direction  a 
question  of  boundary  between  them  and  the  Cosur  d'Alenes,  which  appears  to  be  as  complicated 
as  some  of  those  between  more  civilized  nations.  No  resort  to  arms  has,  however,  occurred,  and 
the  territory  continues  under  joint  occupation.  An  additional  source  of  coolness  between  them 
arises  from  a  difference  in  religion — the  Spokanes  being  Protestants,  or  of  the  "American  reli 
gion,"  and  the  Coeur  d'Alenes  Catholics.  The  latter  taunt  the  former  as  heretics,  whose  faith  is 
worthless.  Garry  narrated  to  us  the  evils  arising  from  this  state  of  feeling,  with  a  forbearance 
and  Christian  spirit  of  toleration  which  would  have  honored  any  one.  This  tribe  have  at  present 
no  missionary  among  them,  but  they  seem  to  have  been  consistent  to  what  they  learned  under 
the  tuition  of  Messrs.  Walker  and  Eels,  of  the  Chemakane  mission.  The  country  of  the  Spo- 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  415 

kanes,  though  in  most  respects  unattractive  to  settlement  by  the  whites,  is  well  suited  to  the  pur 
suits  of  the  Indian. 

The  high  plain,  which  extends  from  the  Spokane  river  to  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  and 
which  belongs  chiefly  to  them  and  the  Nez  Perces,  though  bleak  and  exposed  to  violent  winds, 
affords  grazing  for  their  stock  and  an  abundance  of  the  roots  used  by  themselves  for  food,  while 
their  river  supplies  them  with  salmon.  They  obtain  buffalo  hides  for  their  lodges,  and  skins  of 
elk,  carraboo,  and  deer,  for  their  own  clothing,  in  their  semi-annual  hunts  to  the  eastward. 

Of  the  larger  game  there  is  but  little  in  their  own  country.  The  buffalo,  it  would  seem,  in 
former  times  penetrated  at  least  occasionally  thus  far  to  the  westward,  though  now  they  never 
come  through  the  northern  passes.  We  were  informed  by  an  old  Iroquois  hunter  at  Fort  Colville, 
who  has  been  some  forty-eight  years  in  the  company's  service,  that  the  last  bull  was  killed  some 
twenty-five  years  ago  in  the  Grand  Coulee. 

Of  the  remaining  tribes  of  the  nation  it  will  be  necessary  to  speak  even  more  briefly,  for  our 
journey  did  not  bring  us  in  contact  with  them,  and  but  little  can  be  added  to  what  has  been  before 
published. 

The  Skitswish,  or  Cceur  d'Alenes,  live  upon  the  upper  part  of  the  Coeur  d'Alene  river,  above 
the  Spokanes,  and  around  the  lake  of  the  same  name.  They  are  estimated  by  Dr.  Dart  as  only 
two  hundred  in  number,  which  is  believed,  however,  to  be  too  low  an  estimate.  Father  Menga- 
rini,  formerly  missionary  among  the  Flatheads,  gives  as  his  opinion  that  they  reach  four  hundred 
and  fifty.  A  mean  has  been  adopted  in  the  recapitulation.  This  tribe  has  also  a  missionary 
station  belonging  to  the  Order  of  Jesuits. 

The  Kalispelms,  or  Pend  d'Oreilles  of  the  Lower  Lake,  inhabit  the  country  north  of  the  Coeur 
d'Alenes  and  around  the  Kalispelm  lake.  Dr.  Dart  gives  their  population  as  five  hundred  and 
twenty,  which  is  but  little  short  of  Father  Mengarini's. 

The  Slka-tkml-schi,  or  Pend  d'Oreilles  of  the  Upper  Lake,  a  tribe  who,  by  the  consent  of  the 
Selish,  occupy  jointly  with  -them  the  country  of  the  latter.  According  to  the  same  authorities, 
they  reach  about  four  hundred  and  eighty. 

The  Selish  proper,  or  Flatheads,  inhabit  St.  Mary's  or  the  Flathead  valley,  and  the  neigh 
borhood  of  the  lake  of  the  same  name.  Mr.  John  Owen,  who  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Jesuit 
mission  of  St.  Mary's  as  a  trading-post,  says  that  there  remain  of  these  but  sixty-five  lodges,  of 
about  five  to  a  lodge,  giving  a  total  of  three  hundred  and  twenty -five — a  number  considerably 
exceeding  Dr.  Dart's  estimate,  which  is  but  two  hundred  and  ten. 

The  tribe  was  once  a  very  powerful  one,  but  has  been  much  diminished  by  the  attacks  of  the 
Blackfeet,  who  enter  into  their  country  through  the  mountain  passes,  or  meet  them  in  their  hunts 
upon  the  eastern  side. 

Their  custom  is  to  make  two  hunts  annually  across  the  mountains — one  in  April,  for  the  bulls, 
from  which  they  return  in  June  and  July;  and  another,  after  about  a  month's  recruit,  to  kill 
cows,  which  have  by  that  time  become  fat.  In  these  excursions  they  are  accompanied  by  that 
portion  of  the  Pend  d'Oreilles  who  live  in  their  country,  and  about  one  hundred  lodges  of  the  Nez 
Perces,  as  well  as  parties  from  such  other  tribes  as  see  fit  to  join  them.  Their  country  is  admi 
rably  adapted  for  grazing,  and  they  possess  about  one  thousand  head  of  American  cattle,  which 
were  introduced  by  the  worthy  and  zealous  Father  De  Smet. 

They  are  not  rich  in  horses,  but  still  have  many  good  ones,  though  frequently  robbed  by  their 
enemies,  the  Blackfeet.  They  get  no  salmon,  but  live  altogether  by  the  hunt,  and  do  not  manifest 
any  disposition  to  agricultural  pursuits  or  fixed  residence.  They  have  no  canoes,  but  in  ferrying 
streams  use  their  lodge  skins,  which  are  drawn  up  into  an  oval  form  by  cords,  and  stretched  on 
a  few  twigs.  These  they  tow  with  horses,  riding  sometimes  three  abreast.  Their  own  territory 
still  furnishes  them  with  ordinary  kinds  of  game — elk,  moose,  black  and  white-tailed  deer,  the 
bighorn,  and  bears.  Beaver  and  otter  are  abundant. 

The  mission  of  St.  Mary's  was  abandoned  in  1850,  the  habits  of  the  Flatheads  leaving  the  mis- 


416  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

eionaries  unprotected,  and  proving  an  obstacle  to  effectual  labor.  They  have  at  the  station  a 
village  of  log-houses,  but  notwithstanding  generally  prefer  their  own  lodges.  Their  great  chief 
is  Kwi-kwi-kal-sih,  or  Victor,  a  man  highly  spoken  of  by  the  whites  who  have  come  in  contact 
with  him.  The  tribe,  in  fact,  seem  to  be  an  exception  among  the  Indians  of  Oregon.  Their 
heroism  in  battle,  their  good  faith  towards  others,  and  their  generally  inoffensive  conduct,  have 
been  the  theme  of  praise  both  from  priest  and  layman.  They  are,  however,  rapidly  disappearing 
before  the  murderous  warfare  of  the  Blackfeet.  Should  their  country  become  a  thoroughfare  of 
travel,  they  will,  to  some  degree  at  least,  be  protected  from  their  enemies;  but,  on  the  other  hand, 
the  destruction  of  the  buffalo  and  other  game  will  render  some  new  mode  of  subsistence  an  object 
of  proper  care  on  the  part  of  the  government. 

The  Kootenaies  or  Kitunahas,  and  the  Flatbows,  who  now,  according  to  Father  De  Smet,  form 
one  tribe,  called  by  their  neighbors  Skalza,  or  Skolsa,  inhabit  the  country  extending  along  the 
foot  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  north  of  the  Flathea'ds,  for  a  very  considerable  distance,  and  are 
about  equally  in  American  and  in  British  territory.  They  do  not  enter  into  the  census  of  the  Oregon 
superintendent,  and  they  have  had  no  intercourse  with  the  whites  except  through  the  Fur  Com 
pany.  Captain  Wilkes  states  their  number  at  about  400.  Their  usual  camp  is  situated  in  the 
Tobacco  plains,  where  they  were  visited  in  1845  by  Father  De  Smet,  who  gives  a  description  of 
their  country. 

The  Nez  Perces,  or  Saptin,  lie  to  the  south  of  the  Selish,  and  on  both  sides  of  the  Kooskooskia 
and  north  fork  of  Snake  river. 

Their  country,  like  that  of  the  Wallah-Wallahs,  extends  into  both  Oregon  and  Washington 
Territories.  They  are  one  of  the  most  numerous  of  all  these  tribes,  amounting,  according  to  the 
census  of  1851,  to  1,880;  since  when  there  has  probably  been  less  decrease  than  among  some  of 
the  others. 

They  are  much  intermarried  with  the  Wallah-Wallahs,  whose  language  belongs  to  the  same 
family,  and  also  with  the  Cayuses.  They  have  no  chief  of  note  at  present  living  ;  Towwattu,  or 
the  "Young  Chief,"  having  recently  died. 

Wailatpu,  or  Cayuse :  The  country  belonging  to  this  tribe  is  to  the  south  of  and  between  the  Nez 
Perces  and  Wallah- Wallahs,  extending  from  the  Des  Chutes  or  Wawanui  river  to  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Blue  mountains.  It  is  almost  entirely  in  Oregon,  a  small  part  only,  upon  the  upper  Wal 
lah-Wallah  river,  lying  within  Washington  Territory.  The  tribe,  though  still  dreaded  by  their 
neighbors,  from  their  courage  and  warlike  spirit,  is  but  a  small  one,  numbering,  according  to  the 
same  authority,  126.  Of  these,  individuals  of  the  pure  blood  are  very  few;  the  majority  being 
intermixed  with  the  Nez  Perces  and  Wallah-Wallahs — particularly  with  the  former — to  such  a 
degree  that  their  own  language  has  fallen  into  disuse. 

It  was  this  tribe  that  destroyed  Dr.  Whitman's  mission  in  1847.  Their  head  chief,  Pa,  or  the 
"Five  Crows,"  has  since  then  generally  absented  himself  from  his  people,  as,  although  not  con 
cerned  in  the  murder,  he  became  notorious  for  the  abduction  of  one  of  the  women.  These  are  all 
the  tribes  which  enter  into  the  Territory  east  of  the  mountains,  except  that  a  small  remnant  of  the 
original  tribe  belonging  at  the  Cascades  of  the  Columbia  river  still  exist.  They  are  of  the  Upper 
Chinook  nation.  From  their  geographical  situation,  they  will  fall  within  the  eastern  district;  and 
as  the  Klikatats  frequent  the  fishery  there,  it  would  be  desirable  to  comprehend  them  with  the 
latter. 

It  would  be  interesting  to  give  a  reliable  comparison  of  the  Indian  population  at  the  different 
periods  since  their  intercourse  with  the  whites;  but  the  data  from  which  this  could  be  drawn  are 
too  uncertain  to  furnish  satisfactory  conclusions.  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  give  the  earliest  in 
formation  respecting  them. 

Their  journey,  however,  permitted  only  very  loose  conjectures  on  the  subject,  and  their  division 
of  the  tribes  is  with  difficulty  to  be  recognised  at  present.  The  following,  however,  appears  to 
be  the  arrangement,  and  it  is  so  far  intelligible  as  to  render  it  certain  that  their  locations  have  not 
materially  changed  within  that  time. 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 
Lewis  and  Clark's  Estimate — 1806  and  1807. 


417 


Names  of  Tribes. 

Corresponding  names. 

Population. 

Wallah-Wallah.           

Wallah-Wallah  

2,600 

\Vah-how-pum       ..............   .................. 

1,000 

1,200 

Peluse  ..  ......  ...  ......  ......  ......  .  

3,000 

gokulk                      

3,  000 

Lower  Yakima....  ....  ..  ..  .......  

40) 

do  

200 

Squain-a-ross.         .     ..           ......       .       .       . 

do  

240 

do  

400 

Cliim-nah-pun  ................         ................ 

Upper  Yakima  .  ...  ....  ....  ....  ....  .... 

2,000 

Sha-la-la  

Cascades,  Upper  Chenooks  .  ....  .  ....  .. 

1,000 

1,000 

Cliilluk-kit-e-quaw          .       ...........     ...     .      .. 

Dalles  

2  400 

....do  

200 

Cat-sa-nim  .   ................................. 

Okin-a-kanes  ................  

2  400 

He-high-e-niin-mo  ..  ....  ....  ......  .  .  . 

Sans  Puelles  .,  ..  

1,500 

Whe-el-po  .........................  .       ..  . 

3  *00 

Sar-lis-lo  ...............       ...   ....   .   ........ 

Spokanes  ..........  

900 

Sket-so-mish  .....  ..........  ..  ....  . 

do  

2,600 

Mick-suck-seal-tom  .............  ............ 

Pend  d'Oreilles  ,... 

300 

Ho-pil-po  ......  .  .  ......  ......  ....  ......  ......  . 

Flatheads  .  . 

600 

Tush-e-pah  ................  ........... 

Koo-tames  .  .  ....  ....  .... 

800 

Chopunnish  ....  ....  .  .  ....  ...  ...... 

8  000 

Wille-wah  .........  ....  .  .  .  ..........  ...... 

Grand  Rondo  ...............     ...  ....     . 

1  000 

Willet-pos  

42,  200 

Captain  Willies 's  Estimate — 1841. 


Names  of  Tribes. 


Population. 


150 

Dalles    

250 

Yakima  .  ..  .  ....  ......  ....  ......  ..  .  ....  ..  ....  ....  ......  ......  ....  ....  ..  .  ....  ...... 

100 

Okiuakane  .  .  ..  ..........  ...       .  ................  ..  ....  .  ....  .  

300 

450 

300 

Wallah-  Wallah  

1,100 

Total  population..  ....  .  .....  .  .....  .  

2,650 

The  above  furnishes  a  very  incorrect  statement  even  of  the  tribes  that  are  given,  and  some  of 
the  most  important  are  omitted  altogether.  No  conclusion  can  be  drawn  from  it  whatever.  A 
more  general  one  is  contained  in  Captain  Wilkes's  pamphlet  on  Western  America,  as  follows : 


Names  of  Tribes. 


Population. 


Kitunana 

Flatheads 

Nez  Perces 

Wallah-Wallahs 


400 
3,000 
2,000 
2,200 


Total  population 


7,600 


Which  is  also  much  less  than  the  actual  number  at  that  time.  Yet  more  incorrect  is  the 
estimate  of  Lieutenants  Warre  and  Vavasour,  R.  N.,  published  in  Martin's  "Hudson's  Bay 
Territories,  &c.,"  in  1849,  though,  as  regards  this  part  of  the  Territory,  it  is  not  so  bad  as  the 
rest: 

63/ 


418 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 
Estimate  of  Lieutenants  Warre  and  Vavasour. 


Names  of  Tribes. 


Population. 


Wallah-Wallahs,  Nez  Perces,  Snakes,  &c. 

Col  ville  and  Spokane 

Okinaknne,  several  tribes 

Kullas  Palus.  (Kalispelm,)  several  tribes.. 
Kootenaies,  several  tribes -• 


3,  000 
450 
300 
3(10 
450 


Total  population 


4, 500 


Dr.  Dart's  Estimate — 1851. 


Names  of  Tribes. 

Men. 

Women. 

Children. 

Total. 

Wallah-Wallah          .  .  •  -  ......  .  .  .  

52 

40 

38 

130 

95 

115 

90 

300 

Dalles           .           .  ..  .  ..  

129 

206 

147 

482 

60 

62 

59 

181 

•   297 

195 

492 

1,000 

300 

250 

320 

232 

200 

520 

480 

210 

698 

1,182 

1,880 

38 

48 

40 

126 

7,103 

*  The  Pisquouse  and  Kootenaies  are  omitted,  and  the  band  of  Upper  Chinooks,  at  the  Dalles,  included  with  the  Wallah- 
Wallahs. 

Estimate  of  1853. 


Names  of  Tribes,  &c. 


Population. 


Klikatats 

Yakimas 

Pisquouse  and  Okinakanes  . . 

Schwoyelpi,  or  Colville 

Spokane  

Cceur  d'Alene 

Lower  Pend  d'Oreille 

Upper  Pend  d'Oreille 

Flatheads 

Kootenaies  and  Flatbows 

Nez  Perces 

Cayuse 

Wallah-Wallahs,  Peluse,  &c 

Dalles  bands 

Cascades.. 


300 
600 
550 
500 
450 
325 
480 
520 
325 
400 
1,700 
120 
500 
200 
36 


Total  population 


7,  006 


NOTE. — Of  which  it  is  proposed  that  the  Nez  Perces,  Cayuse,  Wallah-Wallahs,  and  Dalles  Indians  remain  under  the  Oregon 
•uperintendency. 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON   TERRITORY.  419 

As  the  relations  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  the  Indian  tribes,  as  well  as  to  the  citizens 
of  the  Territory,  is  a  matter  of  some  importance,  a  statement  of  their  establishments  is  herewith 
submitted. 

The  principal  is  Fort  Vancouver,  on  the  Columbia  river,  which  is  the  parent  establishment 
whence  the  others  are  supplied  with  goods.  The  post  is  enclosed  by  a  stockade  of  two  hundred 
by  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  yards,  twelve  feet  in  height,  and  is  defended  by  bastions  on  the 
northwest  and  southeast  angles  mounted  with  cannon.  Within  are  the  governor's  house,  two 
smaller  buildings  used  by  clerks,  a  range  of  dwellings  for  families,  and  five  large  two-story  ward- 
houses,  besides  offices.  Without,  there  is  another  large  store-house,  at  present  hired  by  the 
United  States.  These  are  all  built  of  square  logs  framed  together.  At  some  little  distance  there 
is  also  a  village  of  fifty  or  sixty  cabins,  occupied  by  servants,  Kanakas,  and  Indians,  and  a  sal 
mon-house  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  buildings  are  old  and  considerably  decayed,  only  the 
repairs  necessary  to  keep  them  in  tenantable  order  having  of  late  years  been  expended.  There 
are  at  present  two  chief  factors  at  this  post,  Messrs.  Peter  Skene  Ogden  and  Donald  MacTavish, 
with  a  considerable  number  of  clerks  and  other  employes. 

The  company's  land  claim  at  Fort  Vancouver  embraces  several  tracts :  first,  the  plain  on 
which  the  fort  and  United  States  barracks  are  situated,  with  a  small  one  behind  it,  making 
together  a  tract  of  about  four  miles  square.  About  one  thousand  acres  are  enclosed  or  under 
cultivation  ;  attached  to  which  there  are  sheds,  stabling,  and  a  small  dwelling  for  a  farmer.  Ad 
joining  this,  to  the  eastward,  is  another  tract,  known  as  the  Mill  claim,  two  and  a  half  by  three- 
quarter  miles  square,  on  which  is  a  saw-mill  having  tolerable  water-power,  but  subject  to  stoppage 
during  freshets.  Besides  the  above,  they  claim  two  other  small  prairies  behind  the  first  men 
tioned,  which  are  respectively  a  half  and  one  mile  square. 

The  business  at  this  post  has  changed  with  the  condition  of  the  country  since  the  treaty,  and 
is  now  almost  entirely  mercantile  and  carried  on  with  the  settlers.  American  Oregon  never  was, 
strictly  speaking,  a  fur  country,  and  the  fall  in  the  value  of  beaver  has  annihilated  what  trade  it 
once  afforded.  Comparatively  a  small  amount  of  Indian  goods  are  now  imported,  that  descrip 
tion  of  merchandise  being  sent  to  the  posts  in  their  own  territory  by  way  of  Victoria.  What 
trade  with  Indians  is  carried  on  here  is  the  ordinary  retail  trade  of  country  stores,  and  for 
cash.  The  amount  of  their  general  business  may  be  gathered  from  their  imports  during  1853. 
These  consisted  of  one  cargo  of  assorted  American  goods  from  New  York,  and  another  valued 
at  about  ,£19,000  from  London,  paying  duties  to  the  amount  of  nearly  $24,000.  A  considerable 
portion  of  these  were  sold  on  commission  at  Portland,  Oregon  City,  and  other  places  in  the  Wil 
lamette  valley. 

The  next  post  above  Vancouver  is  Fort  Wallah- Wallah,  on  the  Columbia  river,  below  the 
entrance  of  the  Snake.  There  are  here  three  or  four  one-story  adobe  buildings,  with  offices, 
enclosed  by  a  wall  of  the  same  material  some  thirty-five  yards  on  each  side,  having  a  bastion  at 
one  angle.  It  is  almost  utterly  valueless  except  as  a  station  where  horses  can  be  kept  for  the 
trains.  There  is,  indeed,  some  trade  with  the  neighboring  Indians,  chiefly  in  cash,  but  not 
enough  to  warrant  its  maintenance,  except  for  the  above  purpose.  The  fort  is  in  very  indifferent 
repiir,  and  the  country  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  a  desert  of  drifting  sand.  Some  eighteen 
or  twenty  miles  up  the  Wallah- Wallah  river  is  a  so-called  farm,  on  which  are  two  small  build 
ings,  a  dwelling-house,  and  dairy.  There  was  formerly  a  dam  for  irrigation,  but  it  is  broken 
down.  They  have  here  some  twenty  acres  cultivated  in  different  spots;  the  principal  object  is 
grazing.  The  force  here  consists  of  Mr.  Pambrun,  chief  clerk,  one  interpreter,  two  traders,  and 
six  men,  Canadians  and  Indians. 

Fort  Colville,  upon  the  Columbia,  above  Kettle  falls,  is  next  in  importance  to  Vancouver, 
though  far  inferior  to  it  in  extent.  It  is  situated  on  the  second  terrace,  at  some  distance  back 
from  the  river,  the  lower  one  being  flooded  in  part  during  the  freshets.  The  buildings  consist  of 
a  dwelling,  three  or  four  store-houses,  and  some  smaller  ones  used  as  a  blacksmith's  shop,  &c.; 


420  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

all  of  one  story,  and  built  of  square  logs.  The  whole  was  once  surrounded  by  a  stockade,  form 
ing  a  square  of  about  seventy  yards  on  each  side.  This  had  been  removed,  except  on  the  north, 
where  it  encloses  a  narrow  yard  containing  offices.  One  bastion  remains.  About  thirty  yards 
in  the  rear  of  this  square  are  the  cattle-yard,  hay-sheds,  &c.,  enclosing  a  space  of  forty  by  sixty 
yards,  roughly  fenced  in,  and  the  sheds  covered  with  bark.  On  the  left  of  the  front  are  seven 
huts,  occupied  by  the  lower  employes  of  the  company ;  they  are  of  rude  construction  and  much 
decaved.  On  the  right  of  the  square,  in  the  rear,  at  a  distance  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  are  three 
more  buildings,  used  for  storing  produce. 

Besides  the  principal  establishment,  there  is  a  cattle-post,  about  nine  miles  distant,  on  the 
stream  laid  down  as  the  Slawntehus,  and  a  grist-mill  of  one  pair  of  stones,  three  miles  off,  on  the 
same  stream.  The  latter  is  said  to  be  in  pretty  good  order,  and  the  water  to  serve  all  the  year 
round.  Here,  formerly,  the  ilour  for  the  northern  posts  was  ground  from  wheat  raised  on  the 
company's  farm.  This  farm  was  once  pretty  extensive,  but  only  a  small  portion  is  cultivated  at 
present. 

Fort  Colville  was  once  the  post  of  a  chief  factor,  the  highest  officer  in  charge  of  a  station,  and 
here  the  annual  accounts  of  the  whole  country  were  consolidated  previous  to  transmission  across 
the  mountains.  The  present  force  consists  only  of  Mr.  McDonald,  chief  clerk,  a  trader,  and 
about  twenty  Canadians  and  Iroquois  Indians.  In  former  years  goods  were  sent  through  this 
post  to  those  north  of  the  line,  but  this  route  is  now  abandoned.  The  amount  of  furs  collected 
here  is  not  large,  and  comes  chiefly  from  the  upper  Columbia.  They  are  principally  bear, 
beaver,  muskrat,  marten,  and  fox  skins.  The  beaver  is  not  considered  to  be  worth  in  London 
more  than  its  cost  when  laid  down  there. 

About  fifteen  Canadians  are  settled  on  claims  in  this  neighborhood,  chiefly  on  the  Slawntehus. 
They  are  former  servants  of  the  company  whose  time  has  expired,  and  who  intend  to  be  natu 
ralized. 

Below  Fort  Colville  is  Fort  Okinakane,  situated  on  a  leve]  plain  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Co 
lumbia,  a  little  above  the  mouth  of  the  Okinakane  river,  and  not  far  from  the  site  of  one  of  Mr. 
Astor's  posts.  The  fort  consists  of  three  small  houses,  enclosed  with  a  stockade.  There  were 
formerly  some  outbuildings,  but  they  have  been  suffered  to  decay.  There  is  no  appearance  of 
business  here,  and  no  goods  on  hand.  One  trader,  a  Canadian,  was  the  only  white  man  on  the 
ground  when  we  visited  it.  A  few  furs  only  are  taken,  and  the  post  probably  does  not  pay  its 
expenses.  It  was  once  of  consequence  as  a.  stopping  place  for  the  bateaux  passing  to  and  from 
Fort  Colville,  but  is  now  kept  up  apparently  for  form's  sake.  We  learned  that  the  price  of  such 
furs  as  were  taken  here  was,  for  a  black  fox-skin,  a  quarter  of  a  yard  of  red  cloth,  or  a  red  cock 
tail  plume ;  for  marten  or  red  fox,  ten  charges  of  powder  and  ball;  for  beaver,  otter,  or  bear 
skins,  thirty  charges. 

Fort  Kontamie,  upon  the  great  bend  of  the  Flatbow  river,  and  not  far  from  the  Fkithead  lake, 
is  an  inferior  post,  in  charge  of  a  Canadian  as  trader  and  postmaster,  with  one  Canadian  and  a 
half-breed  under  him. 

The  above  constitutes  all  the  posts  situated  in  the  country  east  of  the  Cascades  and  north  of 
46°.  It  may  be  worth  while  to  include  the  rest  of  those  in  American  territory. 

There  are  in  Oregon  and  east  of  the  mountains  only  two — Fort  Hall,  on  the  head  of  the  Snake 
river;  and  Fort  Boisee  upon  the  same,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Owy-hee.  The  latter 
is  merely  a  stopping  place,  occupied  by  a  trader  arid  a  few  Kanakas.  The  former  is  a  more 
important  one,  from  its  opportunities  for  trade  with  the  emigrants  and  with  the  Salt  lake.  Of 
the  present  condition  of  this  I  am  not  informed;  but  it  is  only  a  third-rate  post. 

West  of  the  Cascades,  in  Oregon  Territory,  the  principal  is  Fort  Umpqua,  on  the  Umpqua 
river.  This  was  destroj'ed  by  fire  two  or  three  years  since;  but  to  what  extent,  since  rebuilt, 
I  do  not  know.  The  rest  consist  of  a  house  and  granary  at  Champoes,  on  the  Willamette;  one 
acre  of  ground  below  the  falls  of  Oregon  City,  purchased  from  an  American,  a  farmer ;  640  acres 


INDIAN   TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON   TERRITORY.  421 

on  Souvies's  island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette;  with  a  house,  dairy,  and  garden — the  build 
ing  about  six  years  old.     The  old  buildings  at  Astoria  are  of  no  value  whatever. 

In  Washington  Territory,  west  of  the  Cascades,  there  are,  first,  and  the  only  one  of  import 
ance,  Fort  Nisqually,  on  the  lands  of  the  Puget  Sound  Agricultural  Company.  It  is  situated  at 
some  distance  from  the  water,  on  a  high,  undulating  prairie,  and  is  a  cluster  of  small  buildings, 
of  no  great  value,  within  a  stockade.  The  trade  here  is  principally  with  the  settlers.  Besides 
this,  there  is  a  granary  and  about  five  acres  of  land  two  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz 
river;  a  tract  of  land  on  Cape  Disappointment,  occupied  by  an  old  servant,  and  a  small  store 
and  lot  of  ground  at  Chinook. 

With  the  exception  of  Fort  Vancouver,  it  is  believed  that  none  of  these  posts  are  worth  main 
taining  for  any  other  purpose  than  that  of  holding  the  property  till  a  sale  can  be  effected.  The 
condition  of  the  whole  country  is  completely  changed  since  they  were  established,  and  the  com 
pany  are  now  little  else  than  general  merchants.  At  all  points  of  present  importance  they  meet 
with  the  usual  competition  from  our  citizens ;  and  whenever  it  will  repay  the  enterprise,  the  same 
competition  will  follow  them  elsewhere.  The  relations  of  the  company  to  the  Indians  are  neces 
sarily  far  less  intimate  than  they  have  been,  though  not  less  friendly;  but  even  the  more  distant 
tribes  now  frequent  the  towns,  attracted  partly  by  novelty,  and  partly  by  the  opportunities 
afforded  for  earning  money  by  labor.  Most  of  them  comprehend  fully  that  the  sceptre  has  de 
parted  from  Judah,  and  that  our  own  people  possess  the  country. 

The  familiarity  of  the  company's  officers  with  the  Indians  and  their  usages,  of  course  gives 
them  a  certain  influence  ;  but  there  is  no  evidence  that  this  has  been  used  unfairly,  or  that  since 
the  conclusion  of  the  treaty  they  have  ever  endeavored  to  prejudice  them  against  our  government. 
So  far  as  regards  their  course  previous  to  that  time,  it  was  clear  enough.  As  traders,  they  en 
deavored  to  secure  to  themselves  every  advantage  of  trade;  as  British  subjects,  they  upheld  and 
stood  by  their  country  while  it  stood  by  them ;  but  in  every  matter  between  a  white  man  and  an 
Indian,  they  sustained  the  white,  of  whatever  nation.  The  conduct  of  Dr.  John  McLoughlin  and 
of  Mr.  Peter  Skene  Ogden,  on  more  than  one  trying  occasion,  was  worthy  of  all  praise.  It  was 
the  former  who,  on  the  destruction  by  the  Umpqua  Indians  of  the  train  under  the  command  of 
Jedediah  Smith,  an  American  and  a  rival  fur-trader,  sent  against  the  aggressors  an  armed  party, 
and  restored  to  him,  without  charge,  his  recaptured  goods ;  it  was  the  latter  who,  upon  hearing 
of  the  Whitman  massacre,  instantly  set  out  himself  for  the  Cayuse  country  and  purchased  the 
liberty  of  the  surviving  women  and  children.  For  the  expenditure  on  this  occasion,  it  may  be 
mentioned,  the  company  have  never  requested  or  received  payment.  Their  hospitality  and 
kindness  to  the  early  settlers  drew  upon  them  censure  from  home ;  while,  in  this  country,  those 
who  have  received  most  at  their  hands  have  been  most  bitter  in  their  abuse. 

The  white  servants  of  the  company,  as  their  time  expires,  settle  here  and  become  naturalized. 
Some  of  the  officers,  also,  are  already  citizens,  and  others  will  follow  their  example.  Very  few 
will  ever  leave  the  country. 

In  respect  to  the  impression  which  it  is  supposed  may  be  created  by  purchasing  goods  from 
them  for  Indian  service,  it  may  be  remarked,  that  any  danger  or  misconception  of  this  point  has 
passed  away.  Very  few  goods  have,  in  fact,  ever  been  purchased  from  the  company  by 
government  officers  for  this  purpose,  and  the  reason,  on  those  occasions,  has  been  simply  because 
they  alone  had  supplies  of  suitable  kind. 

The  missions  also  require  notice  in  connexion  with  Indian  relations. 

The  Presbyterians  formerly  had  stations  among  the  Cayuse  at  Waiatpu,  on  the  Wallah-Wallah 
river,  under  the  superintendence  of  Dr.  Whitman ;  among  the  Spokanes  at  Chemakane,  upon  a 
branch  of  the  Spokane  river,  under  Messrs.  Walker  and  Eels ;  among  the  Nez  Perces  at  Lapwai, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Kooskooskia,  under  Mr.  Spalding;  and  at  Raima,  on  its  headwaters,  under 
Mr.  Smith.  The  last  was  maintained  but  a  short  time,  and  all  of  them  have  been  abandoned 
since  Dr.  Whitman's  murder.  The  Methodists  also  once  had  a  mission  at  the  Dalles. 


422  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 

The  only  missions  now  among  the  eastern  tribes  are  those  of  the  Jesuits  and  Oblats.  There 
are,  of  the  former,  two  priests  at  Fort  Colville,  two  among  the  Pend  d'Oreilles  and  two  among 
the  Coeur  d'Alenes.  Of  the  latter,  there  is  one  at  Wailatpu,  and  two  on  the  Yakima.  The 
mission  of  St.  Mary's,  among  the  Flatheads,  was  given  up  in  1851,  on  account  of  the  Blackfeet 
incursions.  The  Yakima  mission  is  not  fixed,  but  transitory,  having  two  regular  stations,  one 
occupied  in  winter,  the  other  in  the  summer. 

Concerning  the  influence  of  the  existing  missions,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  is,  to  a  certain 
extent,  beneficial  in  preserving  peace  among  the  tribes,  as  well  as  in  settling  private  quarrels. 
Beyond  a  very  small  number,  however,  their  control  over  individuals  is  limited.  They  have, 
unquestionably,  inculcated  principles  of  honesty  and  morality,  which  in  some  cases  perhaps  have 
taken  root,  but  have  essentially  failed  in  accomplishing  any  great  and  lasting  improvement. 
Many  of  the  Indians  have  adopted  certain  forms  of  Christianity,  such  as  the  sign  of  the  cross,  the 
repetition  of  short  prayers,  or  singing  of  canticles  ;  but  I  have  failed  to  notice  that  this  has  always 
been  a  proof  of  trustworthiness.  For  the  rest,  it  is  evident  that  the  objects  of  these  gentlemen 
are  inconsistent  with  the  settlement  of  the  country,  or  the  establishment  of  fixed  agencies.  It  is 
not  intended  to  be  represented  that  they  have  used  reprehensible  means ;  but  in  the  knowledge 
that  their  influence  must  infallibly  be  shaken  whenever  contact  with  the  whites  becomes  general, 
it  is  not  to  be  doubted  that  they  have  discouraged  it. 

In  this  connexion  it  may  be  remarked,  that  under  no  consideration  should  agencies  be  conferred 
on  priests  or  clergymen  of  any  denomination,  as  the  desire  to  propagate  their  own  peculiar  tenets 
cannot  fail  to  embarrass  their  official  relations.  The  distinction  is  already  drawn  among  the 
Indians  between  the  "American"  and  French  religions,  and,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Coeur  d'Alenes 
and  Spokanes,  has  already  created  ill  feelings.  Any  appointments  of  clerical  officers  will  neces 
sarily  be  regarded  as  an  endorsement  of  their  peculiar  doctrines;  whereas  all  idea  of  a  connexion 
of  religion  and  government  should  be  discountenanced. 

It  is  a  fortunate  circumstance  that  there  has  as  yet  been  little  or  no  negotiation  with  the  Indians 
of  the  Territory,  and  that  their  official  relations  with  the  government  have  been  but  few,  and 
those  confined  to  tribes  on  the  Columbia  river.  The  evils  arising  from  the  want  of  a  settled  and 
consistent  policy,  from  constant  changes  of  agents,  and  from  the  rejection  of  treaties  entered  into 
with  them,  have  not  arisen  here.  The  field  is  new,  and  it  is  highly  desirable,  both  for  the  sake 
of  the  whites  and  the  Indians,  that  it  should  be  entered  upon  with  judgment. 

To  remove  the  Indians  altogether  into  any  one  district  is  impracticable,  for  the  western  verge 
has  been  reached.  To  throw  the  fishing  tribes  of  the  coast  back  upon  the  interior,  even  were 
the  measure  possible,  would  destroy  them;  nor  is  there  any  suitable  region  east  of  the  Cascades 
where  all  of  the  tribes  now  living  there  could  be  concentrated  and  find  food.  They  must,  there 
fore,  remain  as  they  are,  adopting  such  a  plan  only  as  will  remedy,  so  far  as  may  be,  the  incon 
venience  of  the  contact. 

The  great  primary  source  of  evil  in  Oregon  and  the  wrestern  part  of  this  Territory  is  the  donation 
act,  in  which,  contrary  to  established  usage  and  to  natural  right,  the  United  States  assumed  to 
grant,  absolutely,  the  land  of  the  Indians  without  previous  purchase  from  them.  It  followed,  as 
a  necessary  consequence,  that  as  settlers  poured  in,  the  Indians  were  unceremoniously  thrust 
from  their  homes  and  driven  forth  to  shift  for  themselves.  No  provision  was  made  to  support 
them  after  their  former  means  were  taken  away;  and  finally  the  treaties  negotiated  by  authorized 
agents  of  the  government,  in  which  some  small  patches  of  their  own  territories  were  secured  to 
them,  were  either  rejected  or  passed  over  in  silence.  A  consequence  of  this  has  been  that  a 
natural  distrust  has  sprung  up  in  their  minds  as  to  the  good  faith  of  the  government  or  its  agents 
in  making  treaties  at  all.  The  policy  has  indeed  one  merit,  that  of  economy.  But  a  few  years 
will  elapse  before  a  universal  escheat  will  preclude  the  necessity  of  any  purchase. 

Excepting  a  few  persons  south  of  the  Columbia  and  Snake  rivers,  arid  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com 
pany's  forts,  there  are  few  or  no  white  settlers  within  the  limits  of  Washington  Territory  east  of 


INDIAN   TRIBES   OP   WASHINGTON   TERRITORY.  423 

the  Cascades.  So  far,  therefore,  as  the  tribes  inhabiting  that  country  are  concerned,  no  difficulty 
has  as  yet  sprung  up.  It  is  entirely  in  the  power  of  the  government  to  obviate  its  future  occur 
rence. 

But  in  order  to  avoid  the  rejection  of  future  treaties,  a  course  almost  impossible  to  explain 
satisfactorily,  and  which  is  rendered  still  more  unfortunate  by  the  length  of  lime  required  to 
amend  or  renew  them,  it  is  necessary  to  procure  in  advance  from  Congress  some  expression  of 
its  views  on  the  subject.  This  is  in  fact  requisite  under  any  circumstances,  because  the  law 
gives  no  power  to  the  superintendent  to  make  even  provisional  reserves,  and  lands  set  aside  for 
Indian  use  may  be  taken  up  without  remedy  before  a  satisfaction  can  be  procured.  In  fact,  they 
are  very  likely  to  be  so,  with  a  view  to  speculation  out  of  the  government. 

It  is  not  believed  that  extensive  reserves  would  be  desirable  for  these  tribes.  The  nature  of 
their  country  and  their  own  habits  make  the  case  entirely  different  from  those  of  the  prairie 
Indians.  Although  some  of  them  cross  the  mountains  in  search  of  buffalo,  they  are  not  generally 
hunters;  nor  is  their  country  any  longer  a  game  country.  They  require  the  liberty  of  motion 
for  the  purpose  of  seeking,  in  their  proper  season,  roots,  berries,  and  fish,  where  those  articles 
can  be  found,  and  of  grazing  their  horses  and  cattle  at  large;  but  they  do  not  need  the  exclusive 
use  of  any  considerable  districts.  A  large  portion  of  their  territory  will,  in  all  human  probability, 
never  be  occupied  by  white  men ;  and  so  far  nature  has  provided  reserves.  What  is  necessary 
for  them,  and  just  in  itself,  is,  that  small  tracts  of  good  land  should  be  set  apart  as  permanent 
abodes,  where  they  may  raise  their  vegetables  and  bury  their  dead,  secure  that  they  will  not  be 
driven  off  at  the  pleasure  of  the  first  comer. 

This  is  especially  so,  because  their  main  resource  during  a  portion  of  the  year  is  speedily 
destroyed  in  the  neighborhood  of  settlements.  A  drove  of  hogs  belonging  to  one  white  man  will 
consume  the  winter  provision  of  a  tribe  of  Indians.  In  like  manner,  the  use  of  their  customary 
fisheries,  and  free  pasturage  for  their  stock  on  unenclosed  lands,  should  be  secured. 

The  subject  of  the  right  of  fishery,  in  its  present  position,  is  believed  to  be  one  concerning 
which  difficulties  may  arise.  It  is  certain  that  the  intention  of  Congress  never  was  that  the 
Indians  should  be  excluded  from  them ;  but  as  no  condition  to  this  effect  was  inserted  in  the 
donation  act,  the  question  has  been  started  whether  persons  taking  claims,  including  such  fisheries, 
do  not  possess  the  right  of  monopolizing  them.  It  is,  therefore,  proper  that  this  also  should  be 
set  at  rest  by  law. 

A  tract  of  a  mile  square  would,  it  is  believed,  be  sufficient  for  each  of  the  before-mentioned 
tribes,  or,  where  deemed  more  convenient,  four  quarter-sections  at  different  points.  This  amount, 
however,  should  not  include  the  land  required  for  agencies ;  and  authority  ought  to  be  given  to 
the  superintendent  to  set  aside  for  this  purpose  not  exceeding  another  square  mile,  (to  be  in  one 
body,)  in  the  territory  of  each  tribe,  which  shall  be  exempted  from  individual  claim.  It  is  not 
supposed  that  it  will  be  requisite  to  occupy  them  all  at  once;  but,  in  anticipation  of  the  future 
settlement  of  the  country,  it  is  desirable  to  secure  suitable  positions,  that  the  United  States  may 
not  be  compelled  to  buy  back  what  is  required  for  public  uses. 

No  conventional  arrangements,  strictly  so  speaking,  are  known  which  need  action  on  the  part 
of  the  government;  but  the  assurance  has  everywhere  been  given  by  the  whites,  settling  among 
the  Indian  tribes,  that  Congress  would  compensate  them  for  the  lands  taken.  Those  among 
whom  establishments  have  been  made  for  any  length  of  time,  finding  themselves  crowded  out  of 
their  houses,  and  fast  dwindling  away,  ask  often  when  this  promise  will  be  fulfilled,  for  they  have 
but  a  little  time  left  to  employ  it,  and  they  leave  no  children  behind.  Distrust  thus  attaches  to 
the  country,  and  the  advance  of  settlement  into  new  districts  is  looked  upon  with  suspicion. 

As  regards  treaties  for  the  purchase  of  their  lands  and  other  purposes,  it  would  be  most  advan 
tageous  simply  to  acquire  the  right  of  settlement  at  pleasure  in  their  territory,  except  upon  the 
tracts  reserved  for  their  own  use,  leaving  the  remainder  as  lands  common  to  both.  Payment 
should  be  made  to  them  in  goods,  for  although  most  of  them  understand  the  value  of  money  per- 


424  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

fectl}',  the  former  mode  is  preferable,  as  it  does  not  furnish  an  inducement  to  go  into  the  towns, 
and  as  it  confers  a  greater  benefit  at  less  cost.  The  merchandise  should  consist  chiefly  of  blan 
kets,  coarse  warm  clothing,  agricultural  tools,  &c.,  with  as  few  of  what  is  termed  "  Indian  goods" 
as  possible.  In  respect  to  presents,  the  indiscriminate  distribution  of  considerable  amounts  is  to 
be  avoided  as  useless  if  not  injurious.  Small  presents  are  proper  on  the  occasional  visits  of  chiefs 
to  the  agencies,  but  these  should  be  discouraged  when  not  on  business. 

In  negotiating  treaties,  as  the  distance  from  the  settlements  to  the  residences  of  the  different 
tribes  is  very  considerable,  and  the  cost  of  transporting  merchandise  for  presents  to  the  interior 
would  be  enormous,  it  is  recommended  that  none  whatever  be  given,  with  the  exception  of  ;i  little 
tobacco  for  the  council  smoke,  and  on  the  conclusion  of  the  treaty  a  beef-ox  or  two  to  each  tribe. 
If  the  reason  is  explained  to  them,  as  they  will  of  course  know  what  to  expect  when  the  treaty 
is  ratified,  they  will  be  perfectly  contented.  Should  the  suggestions  elsewhere  made  be  adopted, 
arrangements  may  be  in  progress  before  the  first  distribution,  which  will  much  reduce  the  cost  of 
delivering  the  annuities.  The  estimates  in  other  respects  have  been  made  for  a  small  party  of 
officers  and  their  necessary  attendants.  No  troops  are  required,  and  every  additional  person 
onlv  adds  to  the  expense  and  prevents  celerity  of  movement. 

As  nearly  two  years  must  elapse  after  the  conclusion  of  a  treaty  before  a  ratification  can  take 
place,  an  appropriation  be  made,  the  goods  purchased,  forwarded,  and  transported  to  the  place 
of  distribution  in  the  usual  course,  it  is  recommended  that  an  appropriation  for  the  first  payment 
be  made  in  advance,  that  the  goods  may  be  on  hand  as  soon  as  the  ratification  takes  place. 
Goods  for  the  eastern  part  of  the  Territory  should  be  shipped  to  Portland  or  Fort  Vancouver; 
those  for  the  western,  to  Puget  sound.  But  most  of  the  necessary  articles  can  now  to  better 
advantage  be  purchased  in  San  Francisco  than  imported  from  the  States,  and  it  is  recommended 
that  this  course  be  pursued. 

In  every  treaty  concluded  with  these  tribes,  it  should  expressly  be  stipulated  that  for  offences 
committed  against  the  persons  or  property  of  the  whites,  the  chiefs  in  the  first  instance  shall  be 
held  responsible  for  the  delivery  of  the  offender  and  the  restoration  of  the  goods,  and  that, 
further,  the  amount  of  all  damages  shall  be  deducted  from  the  annuity  of  the  tribe.  The  chief 
should  receive  some  compensation  for  his  responsibility,  and  be  assured  of  the  support  of  the 
government  in  maintaining  his  authority. 

With  proper  judgment  and  care,  no  difficulty  is  to  be  apprehended  in  managing  the  relations 
with  any  of  the  tribes  east  of  the  Cascade  mountains.  They  are  none  of  them  disposed  to 
hostilities  against  the  whites,  and  the  most  that  is  to  be  feared  is  an  occasional  theft.  Parties  of 
two  or  three  might  traverse  the  whole  country  without  annoyance.  Neither  are  they  at  variance 
with  one  another,  but  pass  fearlessly  from  tribe  to  tribe.  Petty  jealousies  of  course  exist,  as 
they  do  between  band  and  band  in  the  same  tribe;  but  there  is  no  serious  dissension,  calculated 
to  lead  to  warfare  among  themselves.  Policy  requires  that  some  military  force  should  be  main 
tained  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  great  emigrant  trails,  and  perhaps  hereafter  a  post  may  be 
required  on  the  main  Columbia,  at  or  near  Fort  Colville ;  but  for  this  there  is  no  present  neces 
sity.  Whatever  force  is  employed  should,  however,  be  cavalry,  and  during  the  summer  should 
be  kept  constantly  in  motion. 

One  principle  of  policy,  in  particular,  should  be  observed — the  union  of  small  bands  under  a 
single  head.  The  maxim  of  divide  and  conquer  does  not  apply  among  these  people.  They 
are  never  so  disposed  to  mischief  as  when  scattered  and  beyond  control;  whereas  it  is  always  in 
the  power  of  the  government  to  secure  the  influence  of  chiefs,  and  through  them  to  manage  their 
people.  Those  who  at  present  bear  the  name  have  not  influence  enough,  and  no  proper  oppor 
tunity  should  be  spared  of  encouraging  and  supporting  them  in  its  extension.  This  policy, 
long  pursued  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  was  one  secret  of  their  former  great  influence. 

It  has  been  mentioned  that  a  portion  of  the  Wallah-Wallahs,  together  with  the  Nez  Perces 
and  the  Cayuses,  live  upon  the  borders  of  the  two  Territories,  and  partly  in  each. 


INDIAN    TRIBES    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  425 

In  relation  to  this  state  of  things,  it  will  be  perceived  that  some  arrangements  must  be  made 
between  the  two  superiritendencies,  to  prevent  clashing  in  their  government.  The  Wallah- 
Wallahs  proper,  and  the  other  bands  south  of  the  Columbia  and  Snake  rivers  under  the  Yellow 
Serpent,  may  very  well  be  separated  from  the  Yakimas,  as  they  already  in  fact,  and  together 
with  the  other  two  tribes,  remain  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Oregon.  The  three  are  intimately 
connected  with  one  another.  The  Wallah-Wallahs  and  Nez  Perces  speak  dialects  of  a  common 
language,  and  the  Cayuses  have  abandoned  their  own  for  that  of  the  latter.  They  have  greatly 
intermarried,  their  countries  adjoin,  and  their  separation  would  be  almost  as  impossible  as  the 
division  of  the  tribe  itself.  Their  relations  with  the  Oregon  agency  and  people  have,  moreover, 
been  of  long  standing,  and  will  remain  more  intimate  than  with  those  of  this  Territory.  Except 
the  Bannaks  and  the  Snakes,  they  form  the  only  tribes  falling  within  the  eastern  division  of 
Oregon. 

Treaties  should  nevertheless  be  concluded  with  them  at  once  on  behalf  of  the  citizens  of  both 
Territories,  and  in  the  mean  time  their  subsequent  jurisdiction  be  permanently  fixed. 

The  most  judicious,  and  at  the  same  time  the  most  economical,  mode  of  organizing  the  depart 
ment,  would  probably  be  to  divide  the  Territory  into  two  districts,  one  on  each  side  of  the  mount 
ains,  in  both  of  which  there  should  be  a  full  agent.  It  should  be  his  duty  to  visit  in  person,  at 
least  once  in  each  year,  every  tribe  in  his  district,  pay  the  annuities,  supervise  the  farmers  or 
laborers  employed  to  assist  the  Indians,  and  generally  to  act  as  the  deputy  of  the  superintendent. 
The  agent  should  be  authorized  to  employ  an  assistant  or  clerk,  who  should  live  with  him,  and 
during  his  absence  on  tours  of  inspection,  manage  the  business  of  the  office.  When  it  is  recol 
lected  that  the  Territory  embraces  eleven  degrees  of  longitude  by  six  in  latitude,  it  will  be  obvious 
that  the  superintendent,  especially  when  his  duties  are  united  with  those  of  the  executive,  cannot 
give  his  personal  attention  to  distant  tribes,  and  that  the  most  responsible  duties  must  necessa 
rily  be  discharged  by  subordinates.  Their  pay  and  position  should  be  such  as  to  secure  men 
thoroughly  qualified,  both  by  character,  ability,  and  familiarity  with  the  Indians.  The  pay  of  a 
sub-agent,  barely  equal  to  the  lowest  wages  of  common  labor,  cannot  be  expected  to  secure  the 
efficient  service  of  any  man  in  such  a  situation,  much  less  of  a  competent  one.  As  the  agent  him 
self  cannot  personally  supervise  all  the  different  tribes  in  learning  the  use  of  their  tools,  the  proper 
arrangement  of  their  crops,  building  fences,  &c.,  it  is  recommended,  further,  that  the  superintend 
ent,  under  the  sanction  of  the  department,  be  authorized  to  allow  the  pay  of  a  sub-agent  to  not 
more  than  one  person  for  each  principal  tribe  of  Indians  who  shall  settle  among  them,  and  under 
his  direction,  or  that  of  the  agent,  assist  in  teaching  them.  Should  this,  however,  not  be  deemed 
advisable,  the  agent  should  be  allowed  to  hire  for  at  least  three  months  during  each  of  the  first  two 
years  after  the  ratification  of  the  treaty,  a  person  suitable  for  the  task. 

Their  own  cattle  would,  among  the  eastern  tribes,  suffice  for  their  wants  in  breaking  up  their 
land,  and  doing  the  requisite  hauling.  In  the  western  agency  the  work  would  require  to  be  done 
chiefly  by  hand,  as  the  wooded  country  of  the  coast  does  not  afford  sufficient  range,  and  the  In 
dians  have  but  few  horses,  and  no  cattle.  Another  provision  ought  to  be  made  for  the  protect 
ion  of  their  fields  in  that  district.  Settlers  taking  up  lands  adjoining  the  reserved  grounds 
should  be  compelled  to  do  half  the  fencing  necessary  to  exclude  their  hogs  and  other  stock,  the 
Indians,  under  the  direction  of  the  agent,  doing  the  remainder.  As  it  is,  they  are  exposed  to  the 
loss  of  their  little  provision,  and  government  will  probably  be  called  upon  to  remunerate  them 
for  the  damage. 

The  location  recommended  for  the  eastern  agency  is  the  neighborhood  of  the  old  Chemakaine 
mission,  which  affords  good  land  and  timber,  and  is  both  central  to  the  district  and  accessible  to 
wagons  from  Wallah- Wallah  or  Fort  Colville.  For  the  western  agency,  some  point  on  or  near 
the  southern  end  of  Whidby's  island  would  probably  be  the  most  convenient. 

The  Columbia  river  should  be  constituted  a  sub-agency,  to  have  jurisdiction  over  the  scattered 
bands  of  the  Upper  and  Lower  Chinooks,  and  those  of  the  Klika.ta.ts  who  reside  either  in  whole 
54/ 


426  INDIAN    TRIBES    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

or  in  part  among  them.  The  boundaries  of  this  jurisdiction  can  be  settled  by  the  superintendent, 
as  it  is  advised  that  the  Indians  living  within  it  be  for  the  most  part  left  to  the  operation  of  civil 
law ;  the  duties  of  the  sub-agent  will  not  be  more  onerous  than  can  be  performed  with  the 
necessary  attention  to  his  other  occupations,  and  no  particular  residence  need  be  furnished  or 
designated. 

In  the  present  condition  of  the  Territory  there  is  great  confusion  as  to  the  applicability  of  the 
laws  regulating  intercourse  with  the  Indian  tribes.  For  certain  purposes  it  is  Indian  country, 
while  for  others  it  assuredly  is  not,  and  in  every  respect  it  is  desirable  that  Congress  draw  the 
line  of  distinction. 

The  difference  between  the  eastern  and  western  sections  of  the  Territory  may  require  some 
few  differences  in  legislation.  The  western  portion  is  as  yet  the  only  one  where  settlements 
have  been  made ;  it  is  there  that  the  bulk  of  the  population  will  continue  to  be  ;  but  very  radical 
amendments  are  demanded  in  the  other  also.  The  following  have  suggested  themselves : 

Act  of  June  30,  1834.  Section  2,  prohibiting  trade  with  the  Indians  without  license,  to  be 
repealed,  except,  of  course,  in  spirituous  liquors,  the  introduction  of  which  into  the  Territory 
east  of  the  mountains  may  continue  to  be  illegal.  West  of  them,  however,  the  law  as  against 
importation  is  nugatory,  and  should  be  repealed.  The  repeal  of  sections  3,  4,  5,  and  6,  will 
necessarily  follow.  In  case  of  the  settlement  of  the  country  by  the  whites,  there  will  of  course 
be  merchants  and  traders,  and  the  Indians  should  have  the  right  to  purchase  where  they  can  get 
the  best  and  cheapest  goods.  This  they  will  do  in  any  event,  and  the  section  will  continue  to  be 
a  dead  letter,  even  if  not  repealed. 

Section  7  to  be  limited  to  clothing  and  goods  of  American  or  European  manufacture.  These 
Indians  have  few  peltries,  and  look  forward  to  the  sale  of  stock,  horses,  and  potatoes,  as  a  benefit 
to  be  derived  from  the  incoming  of  settlers. 

Section  9  to  be  repealed,  and,.as  a  substitute,  the  marking  ot  cattle,  horses,  mules,  hogs,  and 
other  domestic  animals,  with  conspicuous  ear  or  other  marks,  to  be  required,  which  marks,  as  in 
the  western  States,  to  be  recorded  in  the  office  of  the  clerk  of  the  county ;  a  penalty  to  be  affixed 
to  the  effacing  of  marks,  adopting  a  mark  previously  recorded,  forging  a  mark,  or  falsely  marking 
animals. 

Section  20.  It  is  proposed  that  in  lieu  of  the  penalty  here  affixed,  the  jury  shall  impose  the 
fine — -not,  however,  to  be  less  than  say  $50  for  each  offence  ;  and  also  the  term  of  imprisonment, 
if  that  is  not  repealed.  One  practical  difficulty  in  the  execution  of  the  present  law  is,  that  juries 
are  inclined  to  consider  the  amount  of  the  penalty  as  too  great  to  rest  upon  Indian  evidence  only; 
some  other  changes  will  follow  from  the  amendment  proposed  to  section  25. 

Section  25.  For  the  purpose  of  better  defining  the  limits  of  federal  and  territorial  jurisdiction, 
it  is  proposed  that  the  power  of  the  former  shall  extend  to  all  cases  ofyi7o???/,  and  that  of  the  latter 
to  cases  of  misdemeanor ;  that  the  federal  courts  have  also  power  to  appoint  commissioners  in 
each  county,  whose  duties  and  powers  shall  be  the  same  as  those  of  commissioners  of  the  United 
States  courts  in  other  States  and  Territories,  and  who  shall  be  entitled  to  the  same  fees  as 
justices  of  the  peace  in  the  Territory  of  Washington. 

As  an  additional  section,  it  is  recommended  that  in  all  cases  where  the  military  forces  of  the 
United  Slates  shall  be  employed  against  Indians,  and  shall  take  as  prisoners  or  enforce  the 
delivery  of  persons  accused  of  any  crime,  it  shall  be  competent  for  them  to  try  by  court-martial 
and  inflict  such  punishment  as  the  case  may  warrant,  even  to  that  of  death.  The  object  of  this 
provision  is,  the  greater  impression  upon  the  tribes  produced  by  a  speedy  punishment,  and  the 
saving  of  the  great  expense  consequent  upon  the  keeping  of  prisoners  until  courts  can  be  con 
vened  at  distant  places.  The  rules  of  the  common  law,  moreover,  in  relation  to  evidence,  are 
so  glaringly  inapplicable  to  cases  where  Indian  testimony  is  taken,  that  a  conviction  would  be 
utterly  impossible  in  most  instances,  if  depending  entirely  upon  it. 

There  is  another  measure  which,  under  proper  regulations,  it  is  believed  would  prove  of  essen- 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  427 

tial  benefit  to  the  Indian,  and  of  great  convenience  to  the  citizen — a  well-considered  system  of 
apprenticeship.  Neither  those  of  the  coast  nor  those  of  the  interior  have  any  objection  to  service  ; 
on  the  contrary,  they  all  regard  it  as  an  advantage  in  securing  a  certainty  of  food,  and  the  means 
of  purchasing  necessaries.  Large  numbers  of  Spokanes,  Yakimas,  &c.,  come  down  in  the  winter 
to  Vancouver,  Portland,  and  the  other  towns,  to  seek  employment,  and  their  number  is  yearly 
increasing.  They  do  small  jobs,  and  work  as  boatmen,  porters,  and  house-servants,  and,  besides 
many  presents  of  clothing,  get  good  wages,  averaging  thirty  dollars  a  month.  They  are,  however, 
as  might  be  expected,  inconstant,  and  after  a  short  time  return  to  their  homes,  or  spend  their 
money  in  gambling  before  seeking  work  again.  In  a  country  where  labor  is  as  much  needed  as 
it  is  here,  even  this  comparatively  unprofitable  kind  is  in  demand.  Were,  however,  a  measure 
adopted  which  would  give  permanency  to  the  relation  of  master  and  servant,  and  at  the  same 
time  protect  the  rights  of  the  latter,  the  value  of  Indian  labor  would  be  greatly  raised.  As  it  is, 
many  persons  hold  slaves,  purchased  from  their  Indian  masters,  who  are  to  a  certain  extent 
profitable,  though  they  are  generally  of  the  worst  class.  The  Indians  show  considerable  me 
chanical  ingenuity,  and  would  undoubtedly  make  good  blacksmiths,  carpenters,  and  mechanics 
generally.  As  household  domestics,  attendants  on  the  saw-mills,  and  in  many  other  ways,  they 
can  be  employed  to  advantage  ;  but  it  is  especially  as  farm  servants  that  the  proposed  measure 
would  be  most  useful,  as,  at  the  expiration  of  their  term  of  service,  they  would  carry  back  with 
them  a  sufficient  knowledge  of  agriculture  to  improve  their  condition  at  home.  I  would  therefore 
recommend  that  the  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs,  or  any  full  agent,  under  such  general  regula 
tions  as  the  superintendent  may  direct,  be  authorized,  with  the  consent  of  the  parents  or  next  rela 
tions,  to  bind  any  Indian  child  as  an  apprentice  to  a  citizen  of  good  character  and  standing,  on 
such  terms  and  for  such  time  as  may  be  agreed  upon,  not,  however,  to  extend  beyond  the  period 
when  the  apprentice  shall  reach  the  age  of  twenty-one  years ;  the  contract  subject  to  be  terminated 
by  the  superintendent  or  agent,  should  he  be  satisfied  of  personal  ill-treatment,  immoral  use,  or 
an  intention  to  leave  the  Territory.  As  the  practical  details  of  such  a  system  can  hardly  be  per 
fected  in  advance,  and  as  abuses  might  arise  which  would  require  an  earlier  action  than  could 
be  procured  from  Congress,  it  is  suggested  that  the  superintendent  be  vested  with  entire  powers, 
subject  only  to  the  revision  of  the  department. 

These  measures,  it  is  believed,  are  sufficiently  comprehensive  to  cover  the  whole  ground,  and 
at  the  same  time  preserve  all  that  is  requisite  of  the  system.  • 

The  western  division  of  the  Territory  remains  to  be  considered.  On  the  Columbia  river  and 
at  Shoalwater  bay  are  a  few  remnants  of  the  once  numerous  Chinooks.  Of  these  there  were, 
properly  speaking,  two  nations — the  Upper  and  the  Lower  Chinooks ;  the  former  extending  from 
the  Dalles  nearly  to  the  Cowlitz  river;  the  latter  from  thence  to  the  ocean.  As  these  are  better 
known  from  previous  accounts  than  any  others  on  the  Pacific,  it  is  unnecessary  to  dwell  at  length 
upon  them.  Besides  the  small  party  at  the  Cascades  already  referred  to,  there  are  of  the  Upper 
nation  but  five  bands,  living  at  different  points  on  the  Washington  side  of  the  river,  and  one  at  the 
mouth  of  Dog  river,  in  Oregon.  In  whatever  arrangement  is  made,  it  would  be  well  to  include 
the  whole.  They  number  but  about  200.  Of  the  Lower  Chinooks  there  are  six  or  seven  settle 
ments,  most  of  which  consist  of  single  families.  The  one  on  Chinook  beach  is  the  largest,  and 
amounts  to  66.  Almost  all  these  are,  however,  intermingled  with  the  Chihalis.  One  of  their 
grounds  is  upon  the  south  side  of  the  Columbia,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz,  and  therefore 
in  Oregon.  The  total  number  of  this  tribe  is  reduced  to  about  120.  There  are  four  persons 
who  claim  to  be  chiefs :  Ske-ma-que-up  at  Wabkiakum,  To-tili-cum  at  Woody  Island,  E-la-wah 
at  Chinook,  and  Toke  at  Shoalwater  bay.  As  this  last  named  locality  has  only  recently  been 
much  known,  a  rather  more  particular  notice  of  it  is  not  out  of  place.  It  was  really  the  principal 
seat  of  the  Chinooks  proper,  who  resorted  to  the  Columbia  mostly  for  their  spring  salmon,  while 
they  dug  their  clams  and  procured  their  winter  supplies  on  the  bay.  It  formed,  in  fact,  a  perfect 
Indian  Paradise  in  its  adaptation  to  canoe  travel  and  the  abundance  of  scale  and  shell-fish  which 


428  INDIAN    TRIBES    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

it  furnished.  The  southern  half  of  the  bay  belonged  to  them ;  the  country  on  the  Willopah  river 
to  the  tribe  of  that  name,  and  the  upper  end  to  the  Chihalis.  Trails  now  partially  obliterated 
and  overgrown  connect  it  with  the  Cowlitz,  the  Chihalis,  and  different  points  on  the  Columbia, 
with  the  people  of  which  the  inhabitants  kept  up  a  trade  in  dried  fish  and  clams,  purchasing 
in  return  kamas,  wappatoo,  and  other  foreign  commodities.  At  present  but  few  Indians  remain 
here,  the  smallpox  having  nearly  finished  its  work  during  the  past  year.  In  the  winter  and  spring 
it  spread  with  great  virulence  along  the  coast  as  far  north  as  Cape  Flattery.  Some  lodges  upon 
the  southern  peninsula  of  Shoalwater  bay  were  left  without  a  survivor,  and  the  dead  were  found 
by  the  whites  lying  wrapped  in  their  blankets  as  if  asleep. 

Quite  extensive  cemeteries  are  scattered  along  the  bay,  the  canoes  in  which  the  bodies  of 
former  generations  were  deposited  having  out-lasted  the  race  it=elf. 

The  Willopahs,  or,  as  called  by  Capt.  Wilkes,  Qualioquas,  may  be  considered  as  extinct,  a 
few  women  only  remaining,  and  those  intermarried  with  the  Chi  nooks  and  Chihalis. 

Part  of  the  Chihalis  Indians  still  frequent  the  bay  for  fish,  clams,  and  oysters,  and,  with  the 
Chinooks  living  there,  are  employed  by  the  whites  in  taking  the  latter  for  market.  They  bring 
their  canoes  along  the  coast:  if  the  water  be  smooth,  paddling  outside  the  breakers;  if  rough, 
trailing  them  with  great  dexterity  between  the  surf  and  the  beach.  They  have  some  horses,  and 
this  beach  is  a  favorite  race -ground.  The  number  of  the  tribe  upon  Gray's  harbor,  and  that  part 
of  the  river  from  the  Satsop  down,  is  supposed  to  be  about  one  hundred  and  fifty.  No  settle 
ments  have  been  made  on  Gray's  harbor,  and  only  three  claims  taken  up ;  but  it  is  impossible 
to  foresee  at  what  moment  population  may  thrust  itself  into  any  district,  and  another  season  may 
find  this  occupied  throughout. 

There  are  said  to  be  several  other  bands  inhabiting  the  northern  branches  of  the  Chihalis,  the 
Whishkah,  Wynoochee,  &c.,  between  whom  and  the  whites  there  has  been  no  intercourse  what 
ever,  and  who  have  never  been  included  in  any  estimate.  For  the  present  purpose  they  may, 
with  sufficient  probability,  be  reckoned  at  three  hundred.  The  Indians  of  the  Upper  Chihalis 
will  be  considered  in  connexion  with  the  Cowlitz. 

Following  up  the  coast,  there  is  another  tribe  upon  the  Kwinaitl  river,  which  runs  into  the 
Pacific  some  twenty-five  miles  above  the  Chihalis,  its  headwaters  interlocking  with  the  streams 
running  into  Hood's  canal  and  the  inlets  of  Puget  sound.  Little  is  known  of  them  except  that 
the^f  speak  a  different  language  from  the  last.  Still  farther  north,  and  between  the  Kwinaitl  and 
the  Makahs,  or  Cape  Flattery  Indians,  are  other  tribes  whose  names  are  still  unknown,  but  who, 
by  the  vague  rumors  of  those  on  the  Sound,  are  both  numerous  and  warlike.  All  these  have 
been  lately  visited  by  the  smallpox,  with  its  customary  desolating  effects. 

The  Cowlitz,  likewise  a  once  numerous  and  powerful  tribe,  are  now  insignificant  and  fast  dis 
appearing.  The  few  bands  remaining  are  intermingled  with  those  of  the  Upper  Chihalis.  Ac 
cording  to  the  best  estimates  obtained,  the  two  united  are  not  over  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  in 
number,  and  are  scattered  in  seven  parties  between  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz  and  the  Satsop. 

The  Taitinapam,  a  band  of  Klikatats  already  mentioned,  living  near  the  head  of  the  Cowlitz, 
are  probably  about  seventy-five  in  number.  They  are  called  by  their  eastern  brethren  wild  or 
wood  Indians.  Until  very  lately  they  have  not  ventured  into  the  settlements,  and  have  even 
avoided  all  intercourse  with  their  own  race.  The  river  Indians  attach  to  them  all  kinds  of 
superstitious  ideas,  including  that  of  stealing  and  eating  children,  and  of  travelling  unseen. 

Upon  the  estimates  above  stated,  the  whole  number  of  all  the  Indians  south  of  Puget  sound, 
and  between  the  Cascades  and  the  coast,  woifld  amount  to  about  eight  hundred  and  fifty, 
in  place  of  three  thousand,  the  estimate  of  Captain  Wilkes  in  1841 — a  diminution  of —  per  cent, 
per  annum. 

In  regard  to  all  these  tribes,  scattered  as  most  of  them  are  in  small  bands  at  considerable  dis 
tances  apart,  it  seems  hardly  worth  while  to  make  any  arrangements  looking  forward  to  perma 
nence  or  involving  great  expense.  The  case  of  the  Chinooks  and  Cowlitz  Indians  in  paiticular 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  429 

seems  desperate.  They  are  all  intemperate,  and  can  get  liquor  whenever  they  choose.  They 
are,  besides,  diseased  beyond  remedy,  syphilis  being  with  them  hereditary  as  well  as  acquired. 
The  speedy  extinction  of  the  race  seems  rather  to  be  hoped  for  than  regretted,  and  they  look 
forward  to  it  themselves  with  a  sort  of  indifference.  The  duty  of  the  government,  however, 
is  not  affected  by  their  vices,  for  these  they  owe,  in  a  great  measure,  to  our  own  citizens.  If  it 
can  do  nothing  else,  it  can  at  least  aid  in  supporting  them  while  they  survive.  They  live  almost 
altogether  among  the  whites,  or  in  their  immediate  neighborhood,  taking  and  selling  salmon, 
or  doing  occasional  work,  and  for  the  rest  letting  out  their  women  as  prostitutes.  No  essential 
advantage  would,  it  is  feared',  be  obtained  by  removing  them  to  any  one  location,  for  they  would 
not  long  remain  away  from  their  old  haunts,  and  probably  the  assignment  of  a  few  acres  of 
ground  for  their  villages  and  cemeteries,  and  the  right  of  fishing  at  customary  points,  would  effect 
all  that  could  be  done.  Still,  if  they  should  manifest  such  a  wish,  the  experiment  might  be  tried 
of  settling  each  tribe  in  one  village  at  some  place  not  yet  occupied,  and  constituting  it  a  reserve. 
This,  except  during  the  salmon  season,  might  remove  them  somewhat  farther  from  temptation. 

The  tribes  that  inhabit  the  region  bordering  on  Puget  sound  and  the  Straits  of  Fuca  alone 
remain ;  and  in  speaking  of  them,  it  will  be  most  convenient  to  commence  with  the  Straits,  and 
following  up  Hood's  canal  to  the  inlets  at  the  head  of  the  Sound,  thence  return  northward 
by  the  eastern  shore  and  the  islands,  to  the  boundary  line  of  the  British  provinces. 

The  Makahs,  or  Classets,  inhabit  the  coast  in  the  neighborhood  of  Cape  Flattery,  their  country 
extending  but  a  short  distance  up  the  Straits,  where  it  adjoins  that  of  the  Clallams.  Their 
language  is  said  to  extend  down  the  coast  about  half  way  to  Gray's  harbor.  This  tribe,  which 
has  been  the  most  formidable  to  navigators  of  any  in  the  American  territories  on  the  Pacific,  num 
bered,  it  is  believed,  until  very  recently,  five  hundred  and  fifty. 

During  the  last  year  the  smallpox  found  its  way  to  their  region,  and,  it  is  reported,  reduced 
them  to  one  hundred  and  fifty,  their  famous  chief,  Flattery  Jack,  being  among  the  number  who 
died.  The  Makahs  resemble  the  northwestern  Indians  far  more  than  their  neighbors.  They 
venture  well  out  to  sea  in  their  canoes,  and  even  attack  and  kill  the  whale,  using  for  this  harpoons 
pointed  with  shell,  and  attached  by  a  sinew  line  to  seal-skin  floats.  It  is  said  that  the  year 
previous  to  the  sickness,  they  took  30,000  gallons  of  oil.  This  was  purchased  chiefly  T>y  vessels. 
They  also  take  a  number  of  sea  otter — the  skins  of  which  are  sold  at  Victoria — and  raise  a  good 
many  potatoes. 

Among  their  articles  of  manufacture  are  blankets  and  capes,  made  of  the  inner  bark  of  the 
cedar,  and  edged  with  fur.  Their  houses  are  of  considerable  size,  often  fifty  to  a  hundred  feet 
in  length,  and  strongly  built.  They  sometimes  place  their  dead  in  trees,  at  others  bury  them. 
Their  marriages  are  said  to  have  some  peculiar  ceremonies,  such  as  going  through  the  perform 
ance  of  taking  the  whale,  manning  a  canoe,  and  throwing  the  harpoon  into  the  bride's  house. 
The  superior  courage  of  the  Makahs,  as  well  as  their  treachery,  will  make  them  more  difficult 
of  management  than  most  other  tribes  of  this  region.  No  whites  are  at  present  settled  in  their 
country ;  but  as  the  occupation  of  the  Territory  progresses,  some  pretty  stringent  measures  will 
probably  be  required  respecting  them. 

Next  to  the  Makahs  are  the  Clallams,  or,  as  they  call  themselves,  S'Klallams,  the  most  for 
midable  tribe  now  remaining.  Their  country  stretches  along  the  whole  southern  shore  of  the 
Straits  to  between  Port  Discovery  and  Port  Townsend ;  besides  which,  they  have  occupied  the 
latter  place,  properly  belonging  to  the  Chirnakum.  They  have  eight  villages,  viz  :  Commencing 
nearest  the  Makahs,  Okeno,  or  Ocha,  which  is  a  sort  of  alsatia  or  neutral  ground  for  the  runaways 
of  both  tribes;  Pishtst,  on  Clallam  bay;  Elkwah,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  that  name  ;  Tse- 
whit-zen,  or  False  Dungeness;  Tinnis,  or  Dungeness  ;  St-queen.  Squim  bay,  or  Washington 
harbor;  Squa-que-hl,  Port  Discovery;  and  Kahtai,  Port  Townsend.  Their  numbers  have  been 
variously  estimated,  and,  as  usual,  exaggerated  ;  some  persons  rating  them  as  high  as  1,500 
fighting  men.  An  actual  count  of  the  last  three,  which  were  supposed  to  contain  half  the  popu- 


430  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

lation,  was  made  by  their  chiefs  in  January,  and,  comprehending  all  who  belonged  to  them, 
whether  present  or  not,  gave  a  population  of  only  375  all  told.  The  total  number  will  not 
probably  exceed  800.  That  they  have  been  more  numerous  is  unquestionable,  and  one  of  the 
chiefs  informed  me  that  they  once  had  one  hundred  and  forty  canoes,  of  eighteen  to  the  larger 
and  fourteen  to  the  smaller  size  ;  which,  supposing  the  number  of  each  kind  to  be  equal,  gives  a 
total  of  2,240  men. 

One  cause  of  the  over-estimate  so  frequently  made  of  Indians,  is  their  habit  of  moving  about, 
gathering  in  bodies — one  day  at  one  place,  and  at  another  the  next ;  thus  leaving  the  impression 
of  great  numbers  in  each.  Many  of  the  Clallarns  of  Vancouver's  island,  too,  visit  the  American 
side  of  the  Straits,  and  swell  the  apparent  population.  The  total  of  all  the  tribes  in  this  part  of 
the  Territory  has,  however,  been  placed  rather  under  than  over  the  mark,  for  many  of  them  live 
altogether  off  the  Sound,  and  have  not  come  in  contact  with  the  whites. 

The  head  chief  of  all  the  Clallams  was  Lach-ka-nam,  or  Lord  Nelson,  who  is  still  living,  but 
has  abdicated  in  favor  of  his  son,  S'Hai-ak,  or  King  George — a  very  different  personage,  by  the 
way,  from  the  chief  of  the  same  name  east  of  the  mountains.  Most  of  the  principal  men  of 
the  tribe  have  received  names  either  from  the  English  or  the  "Bostons;"  and  the  genealogical 
tree  of  the  royal  family  presents  as  miscellaneous  an  assemblage  of  characters  as  a  masked 
ball  in  carnival.  Thus,  two  of  King  George's  brothers  are  the  Duke  of  York  and  General  Gaines. 
His  cousin  is  Tom.  Benton;  and  his  sons,  by  Queen  Victoria,  are  General  Jackson  and  Thomas 
Jefferson.  The  queen  is  daughter  to  the  Duke  of  Clarence,  and  sister  to  Generals  Scott  and 
Taylor;  as  also  to  Mary  Ella  Coffin,  the  wife  of  John  C.  Calhoun.  The  Duke  of  York's  wife  is 
Jenny  Lind;  a  brother  of  the  Duke  of  Clarence  is  John  Adams;  and  Calhoun's  sons  are  James 
K.  Polk,  General  Lane,  and  Patrick  Henry.  King  George's  sister  is  the  daughter  of  the  late 
Flattery  Jack.  All  of  them  have  papers  certifying  to  these  and  various  other  items  of  informa 
tion,  which  they  exhibit  with  great  satisfaction.  They  make  shocking  work,  however,  in  the 
pronunciation  of  their  names  ;  the  rs  and  fs  being  shibboleths  which  they  cannot  utter. 

It  is  a  melancholy  fact  that  the  Clallam  representatives  of  these  distinguished  personages  are 
generally  as  drunken  and  worthless  a  set  of  rascals  as  could  be  collected.  The  Clallam  tribe  has 
always  bad  a  bad  character,  which  their  intercourse  with  shipping,  and  the  introduction  of 
whiskey,  have  by  no  means  improved. 

The  houses  of  the  chiefs  at  Port  Townsend,  where  they  frequently  gather,  are  of  the  better 
class — quite  spacious  and  tolerably  clean.  Two  or  three  are  not  less  than  thirty  feet  long  by 
sixteen  or  eighteen  wide,  built  of  heavy  planks,  supported  on  large  posts  and  cross-beams,  and 
lined  with  mats.  The  planks  forming  the  roof  run  the  whole  length  of  the  building,  being 
guttered  to  carry  off  the  water,  and  sloping  slightly  to  one  end.  Low  platforms  are  carried 
round  the  interior,  on  which  are  laid  mats,  serving  for  beds  and  seats.  Piles  of  very  neatly- 
made  baskets  are  stored  away  in  corners,  containing  their  provisions.  There  are  from  two  to 
four  fires  in  each  house  belonging  to  the  head  of  the  family,  and  such  of  his  sons  as  live  with 
him.  They  have  an  abundance  of  salmon,  shell-fish,  and  potatoes,  and  seem  to  be  very  well  off'. 
In  fact,  any  of  the  tribes  living  upon  the  Sound  must  be  worthless  indeed  not  to  find  food  in  the 
inexhaustible  supplies  of  fish,  clams,  and  water-fowl,  of  which  they  have  one  or  the  other  at 
all  times.  They  have  a  good  deal  of  money  among  them,  arising  from  the  sale  of  potatoes  and 
fish,  letting  out  their  women,  and  jobbing  for  the  whites. 

The  Clallams,  and  in  fact  all  the  other  Sound  Indians,  flatten  their  heads.  Their  canoes  are 
of  different  models;  the  common  one  being  that  known  as  the  Chinook  canoe,  the  most  graceful 
of  all;  some  of  which  are  of  large  size  and  great  beauty.  They  have,  besides,  one  called  the 
Queen  Charlotte's  Island  canoe,  which,  in  a  heavy  sea,  is  preferable  to  the  first  as  less  liable 
to  be  boarded  astern.  The  canoe  used  for  duck-shooting  is  very  pretty,  and  exceedingly  well 
adapted  for  the  purpose.  It  sits  low  on  the  water,  and  an  Indian  seated  in  it,  and  gliding 
noiselessly  along  beneath  the  shadows  of  the  trees,  or  lying  beside  some  projecting  log,  would 


INDIAN    TRIBES    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  431 

need  sharp  eyes  to  detect  him.  Another  and  very  large  canoe,  of  ruder  shape  and  workmanship, 
being  wide  and  shovel-nosed,  is  in  use  among  all  these  tribes  for  the  transportation  of  their 
property  and  baggage.  Among  their  characteristic  manufactures  are  blankets  or  robes  made 
of  dogs'  hair.  They  have  a  kind  of  cur  with  soft  and  long  white  hair,  which  they  shear  and 
mix  with  a  little  wool  or  the  ravellings  of  old  blankets.  This  is  twisted  by  rolling  on  the  knees 
into  a  cord  or  coarse  yarn,  and  is  then  woven  on  a  frame.  They  use  the  down  of  water-fowl  in 
the  same  way,  mixing  it  with  hair,  and  forming  a  very  thick  and  warm  fabric. 

The  Clallams,  as  well  as  the  Makahs  and  some  other  tribes,  carry  on  a  considerable  trade 
with  Vancouver's  island,  selling  their  skins,  oil,  &c.,  and  bringing  blankets  in  return.  At  present 
it  is  hardly  worth  while  to  check  this  traffic,  even  if  it  were  possible ;  but  when  the  white 
population  increases,  it  may  become  necessary  as  a  revenue  measure.  In  any  treaties  made  with 
them,  it  should  enter  as  a  stipulation  that  they  should  confine  their  trade  to  the  American  side. 
Apart  of  the  CJallams  are  permanently  located  on  that  island,  and  it  is  believed  that  their  lan 
guage  is  an  extensive  one.  The  Lummi,  on  the  northern  shore  of  Bellingham  bay,  are  a  branch 
of  the  same  nation. 

This  tribe  have,  within  the  last  year,  been  guilty  of  the  murder  of  three  Americans,  as  well 
as  of  several  robberies.  For  the  first,  that  of  a  man  named  Pettingill,  one  of  the  two  perpetrators 
was  secured  by  arresting  the  chief,  and  has  been  in  custody  at  Steilacoom  some  months 
waiting  his  trial.  The  other  case  was  the  murder  of  Captain  Jewell,  master  of  the  barque  John 
Adams,  and  of  his  cook,  and  was  unknown  till  recently,  as  it  was  supposed  that  Jewell  had 
absconded.  In  both  cases  the  parties  had  considerable  sums  in  their  possession,  which  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Indians.  On  learning  of  the  last  affair,  a  requisition  was  made  by  Governor 
Stevens  upon  the  officer  commanding  the  military  post  at  Steilacoom,  and  a  party  promptly 
despatched  there  to  support  the  special  agent  in  securing  the  criminals. 

Some  severe  lesson  is  required  to  reduce  them  to  order,  as  their  natural  insolence  has  been 
increased  by  the  weakness  of  the  settlements  near  them,  and  by  the  facility  with  which  they 
can  procure  liquor.  The  establishment  of  a  military  post  at  some  point  on  the  Straits  would 
be  very  desirable  for  the  purpose  of  overawing  them  and  their  neighbors. 

Above  the  Clallams  are  the  Chimakum,  formerly  one  of  the  most  powerful  tribes  of  the  Sound, 
but  which,  a  few  years  since,  is  said  to  have  been  nearly  destroyed  at  a  blow  by  an  attack  of  the 
Snoqualmoos.  Their  numbers  have  been  probably  much  diminished  by  the  wars  in  which  they 
were  constantly  engaged.  They  now  occupy  some  fifteen  small  lodges  on  Port  Townsend  bay, 
and  number  perhaps  seventy  in  all.  Lately,  the  Clallams  have  taken  possession  of  their  country, 
and  they  are,  in  a  measure,  subject  to  them.  Their  language  differs  materially  from  either  that 
of  the  Clallams  or  the  Nisqually,  and  is  not  understood  by  any  of  their  neighbors.  In  fact,  they 
seem  to  have  maintained  it  a  State  secret.  To  what  family  it  will  ultimately  be  referred,  cannot 
now  be  decided.  Their  territory  seems  to  have  embraced  the  shore  from  Port  Townsend  to 
Port  Ludlow.  Still  above  the  Chimakum  are  the  Toanhoock,  occupying  the  western  shore  of 
Hood's  canal.  They  are  a  branch  of  the  Nisqually  nation ;  but  their  dialect  differs  greatly  from 
those  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Sound.  They  amount  to  about  265.  With  them  may  be  classed 
the  Skokamish,  upon  the  head  of  the  canal,  who  probably  number  200.  Neither  of  them  have 
had  as  much  intercourse  with  the  whites  as  most  of  the  Sound  tribes. 

Upon  Puget  sound,  and  the  inlets  communicating  with  it,  are  several  small  bands,  the  rem 
nants  of  once  larger  tribes,  formerly  all,  it  is  believed,  under  one  head  chief.  Of  these  the 
Squalli-ah-mish  or  Nis-qually  is  the  most  numerous,  and  deserves  particular  mention  as  having 
given  its  name  to  the  general  language.  Their  respective  numbers  will  be  given  in  the  general 
statement. 

To  the  north  of  this  group,  another  may  be  formed  of  those  inhabiting  the  shores  of  Admiralty 
inlet  from  Puyallup  river  to  Suquamish  head,  including  Vashore's  and  Bainbridge's  islands,  Port 
Orchard,  Elliott  bay  and  the  D'Wamish  river,  and  Port  Madison.  Most  of  them  are  nominally 


432  INDIAN    TRIBES    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

under  a  chief  named  Se-at-tle,  belonging  to  the  Suquamish  tribe,  but  residing  principally  with 
another,  the  D'Wamish.  This  last  is  the  one  called,  on  the  charts  of  Puget  sound,  the  Nowa- 
mish;  and  it  should  be  mentioned  that  a  very  considerable  difference  in  the  spelling  of  almost  all 
these  names  exists,  arising  from  the  fact  that  several  letters  of  their  alphabet  are  convertible  ;  as 
D  and  N,  B  and  M,  Q  and  G.  For  instance,  the  band  in  question  arc  indifferently  termed 
N'Wamish  and  D'Wamish;  another  clan  of  the  same  trio,  the  Samamish,  are  also  called  Sababish; 

and  the  name  Suquamish  is  frequently  changed  into .     The  D'Wamish  are  the  best 

known  of  this  connexion,  from  their  neighborhood  to  the  rising  town,  named  after  their  chief 
Se-at-tle,  and  the  whole  generally  bear  their  name,  though  they  are  by  no  means  the  most  nu 
merous.  Their  proper  seat  is  the  outlet  of  a  large  lake  emptying  into  the  D'Wamish  river,  and 
not  on  the  main  branch.  At  that  place,  they,  and  some  others,  have  small  patches  of  potato 
ground,  amounting  altogether  to  perhaps  thirty  acres;  where,  it  is  stated,  they  raised  during  the 
last  year  about  3,000  bushels,  or  an  average  of  one  hundred  bushels  to  the  acre.  Of  these  they 
sold  a  part,  reserving  the  rest  for  their  own  consumption.  Each  head  of  a  family  plants  his  own, 
the  quantity  being  regulated  by  the  number  of  his  women.  Their  potatoes  are  very  fine,  though 
they  have  used  the  same  seed  on  the  same  ground  for  a  succession  of  years. 

The  jealousies  existing  among  all  thesepetty  bands,  and  their  fear  of  one  another,  is  everywhere 
noticeable  in  their  establishing  themselves  near  the  whites.  Whenever  a  settler's  house  is  erected, 
a  nest  of  Indian  rookeries  is  pretty  sure  to  follow  if  permitted ;  and  in  case  of  temporary  absence, 
they  always  beg  storage  for  their  valuables.  The  compliment  is  seldom  returned,  though  it  is 
often  considered  advantageous  to  have  them  in  the  neighborhood  as  spies  upon  others.  Some 
amusing  traits  of  character  occasionally  develop  themselves  among  Indians,  of  which  an  instance 
happened  with  these.  A  saw-mill  was  erected  during  the  last  autumn,  upon  the  outlet  of  the 
lake,  at  a  place  where  they  are  in  the  habit  of  taking  salmon.  The  fishery  was  much  improved 
by  the  dam,  but  what  afforded  the  greatest  satisfaction  to  them  was  its  situation  upon  their  prop 
erty,  and  the  superior  importance  thereby  derived  to  themselves.  They  soon  began  to  understand 
the  machinery,  and  took  every  visitor  through  the  building  to  explain  its  working,  and  boast  of  it, 
as  if  it  had  been  of  their  own  construction. 

The  southern  end  of  Whidby's  island,  and  the  country  on  and  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sinaho- 
mish  river,  belong  to  the  Sinahomish  tribe.  These  number,  including  the  bands  connected  with 
them,  a  little  over  300.  Their  chief  is  S'Hoot-soot,  an  old  man  who  resides  chiefly  at  Skagit 
head.  Above  them,  and  upon  the  main  branch  of  the  river,  is  another  band,  not  under  the  same 
rule,  the  Snoqualmoos,  amounting  to  about  200  souls.  Their  chief,  Pat-ka-nam,  has  rather  an  evil 
celebrity  among  the  whites,  and  two  of  his  brothers  have  been  hung  for  their  misdeeds.  This 
band  are  especially  connected  with  the  Yakimas,  or,  as  they  are  called  on  the  Sound,  Klikatats. 

It  requires  notice  in  this  place,  that  besides  the  tribes,  or  bands,  inhabiting  the  shores  and  the 
lower  part  of  the  rivers,  there  are  on  the  headwaters  of  the  latter,  along  the  whole  course  of  the 
Cascade  mountains,  another  range  of  tribes,  generally  independent  of  the  former,  who  rarely 
descend  from  their  recesses,  but  are  intermediate  in  their  habits  between  the  coast  and  mountain 
tribes;  except  the  Taitinapam,  however,  they  all  belong  to  the  general  family  upon  whose  borders 
they  live.  Those  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  passes  own  a  few  horses,  which  subsist  in  the  small 
prairies  skirting  the  base  of  the  mountains. 

The  tribes  living  upon  the  eastern  shore  possess  also  territory  upon  the  islands,  and  their  usual 
custom  is  to  resort  to  them  at  the  end  of  the  salmon  season — that  is,  about  the  middle  of  Novem 
ber.  It  is  there  that  they  find  the  greatest  supply  of  shell-fish,  which  form  a  large  part  of  their 
winter  stock,  and  which  they  dry  both  for  their  own  use  and  for  sale  to  those  of  the  interior.  The 
summer  and  fall  they  spend  on  the  main,  where  they  get  fish  and  put  in  their  potatoes. 

Below  the  Sinahomish  come  the  Stoluchquamish,  (river  people)  or,  as  their  name  is  usually 
corrupted,  Steilaquamish,  whose  country  is  on  a  stream  bearing  their  name;  and  still  north  of 
them  the  Kikialtis.  No  opportunity  has  afforded  itself  for  accurate  inquiry  into  the  numbers  of 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  433 

either.  The  first  are  said  by  some  to  amount  to  tvvo  hundred,  while  the  latter  may  perhaps  be 
set  down  at  seventy-five.  The  next  tribe  proceeding  northward  are  the  Skagits,  who  live  on  the 
main  around  the  mouth  of  the  Skagit  river,  and  own  the  central  parts  of  Whidby's  island,  their 
principal  ground  being  the  neighborhood  of  Penn's  cove.  They  have  lately  diminished  in  num 
bers  and  lost  much  of  their  influence  since  the  death,  a  year  or  two  since,  of  their  chief,  S'neet- 
lum,  or,  as  he  was  commonly  called,  Snakelum.  The  tribe  has  been  long  at  enmity  with  the 
Clallams,  who  have  attempted  to  encroach  upon  their  lands.  The  Skagits  raise  a  considerable 
quantity  of  potatoes,  and  have,  besides,  a  natural  resource  in  their  kamas,  which  grows  abun 
dantly  on  the  prairies  of  Whidby's  island.  Both  of  these  are  now  being  greatly  injured  by  the 
cattle  and  hogs  of  the  settlers.  The  kamas,  it  is  worth  mentioning,  improves  very  much  by  cul 
tivation,  and  it  is  said  to  attain  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg  in  land  that  has  been  ploughed.  Swine 
are  exceedingly  fond  of  it.  The  Skagits  are  about  three  hundred  all  told ;  and  there  are  other 
bands  upon  the  headwaters  of  their  river,  amounting  probably  to  as  many  more. 

Below  the  Skagits  again,  occupying  land  on  the  main  upon  the  northern  end  of  Whidby's  island, 
Perry's  island,  and  the  Canoe  passage,  are  three  more  tribes,  the  Squinamish,  Swodamish,  and 
Sinaahmish,  probably  two  hundred  and  fifty  or  three  hundred  altogether;  and  lastly  the  Samish, 
on  the  small  river  of  that  name  and  the  southern  part  of  Bellingham  bay,  estimated  at  one  hun 
dred  and  fifty.  With  these,  according  to  the  best  information  procurable  during  a  rapid  journey 
of  inspection,  the  Nisqually  nation  terminates,  the  next  tribe  to  the  north  speaking  a  dialect  of 
the  Clallams. 

It  is  probable  that  that  of  the  Samish  is  a  by-word  between  the  two. 

The  Lummi,  living  on  a  river  emptying  into  the  northern  part  of  Bellingham  bay  and  on  the 
peninsula,  are  variously  estimated  at  from  four  to  five  hundred.  Their  chief  is  Sahhopkan  ;  in 
general  habits  they  resemble  the  Clallams. 

Above  the  Lummi,  on  the  main  fork  of  the  river  which  is  said  to  rise  in  and  carry  off  the  water 
from  Mount  Baker,  is  still  another  considerable  tribe  called  the  Nooksahk.  They  seem  to  be 
allied  with  the  Lummi  and  the  Skagit,  and,  according  to  Indian  account,  they  speak  a  mixed 
language.  They  are  supposed  to  be  about  equal  in  numbers  to  the  Lummi. 

The  Shimiahmoo  inhabit  the  coast  towards  Frazier's  river  ;  nothing  seems  to  be  known  of 
them  whatever.  Thev  are  probably  the  most  northern  tribe  on  the  American  side  of  the  line, 
the  Kowailchew  lying  principally,  if  not  altogether,  in  British  territory. 

Concerning  the  tribes  north  of  the  Sinahomish,  nothing  but  estimates  founded  on  the  opinions  of 
the  few  settlers  in  that  district  could  be  gathered,  the  opportunity  afforded  by  a  hasty  voyage 
through  the  Sound  being,  of  course,  very  limited.  Steps  have  been  taken  to  correct  them.  The 
general  result,  it  is  believed,  will  warrant  the  estimates  furnished. 

Accompanying  the  recapitulation  of  the  tribes  in  the  western  district  will  be  found  the  estimate 
of  Captain  Wilkes  in  1841,  and  one  calculated  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  1844,  which 
was  politely  furnished  by  Dr.  Wm.  F.  Tolmie,  at  Fort  Nisqually.  The  latter  exhibits  what, 
according  to  the  best  information,  is  the  decrease  since  that  period  in  the  tribes  then  known,  but 
no  adequate  data  then  existed  on  which  to  base  a  reliable  comparison.  For  the  purpose  of  pro 
curing  certain  returns  hereafter,  a  form  is  herewith  enclosed,  and  it  is  recommended  that  the 
agents  be  obliged  annually  to  make  out  as  fully  as  practicable. 

Some  variations  from  the  plan  suggested  for  the  management  of  the  eastern  district  will  neces 
sarily  suggest  themselves  in  respect  to  the  western,  though  it  is  believed  they  are  not  material ; 
but  owing  to  the  great  number  of  small  bands  into  which  most  of  the  Indian  population  is  broken 
up,  the  labor  of  treating  with  and  disposing  of  the  latter  will  be  much  the  greatest.  It  is  there 
fore  recommended  that  a  separate  commission  be  appointed  for  that  district. 

In  order  to  bring  the  whole  subject  fully  before  the  government,  estimates  have  been  prepared, 
based  upon  the  best  opinions  and  information  attainable,  of  the  expenses  of  negotiating  treaties 
with  the  tribes  of  eadi  district ;  of  the  annual  payments  they  may  be  expected  to  involve  ;  of  the 
55/ 


434 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 


cost  of  establishing  agencie  ,  and  finally  of  the  yearly  expense  of  maintaining  them.  It  is  be 
lieved  that  the  plan  suggested  will  prove  efficient,  and  that  the  expense  is  but  trifling,  compared 
with  the  extent  of  the  country  to  be  purchased  ;  the  number  and  situation  of  the  tribes  occupying 
it,  and,  above  ail,  of  the  advantage  to  be  secured  to  the  Territory  in  the  quiet  and  effectual  set 
tlement  of  perspective  difficulties.  No  plan,  however  well  devised,  can  be  successful  without 
the  concurrence  of  the  citizens;  and  in  making  these  suggestions,  the  advice  of  men  possessed  of 
experience  in  Indian  relations  has  been  obtained. 

GEORGE  GIBBS. 
Capt.  GEORGE  B.  MCCLELLAN, 

Commanding  Western  Division  N.  P.  Railroad  Exploration. 


I  have  examined  the  foregoing  report,  and  fully  approve  of  Mr.  Gibbs's  views  as  therein  ex 
pressed,  and  would  respectfully  recommend  that  they  be  adopted. 

GEORGE  B.  McCLELLAN, 
Lieutenant  Engineers  and  Brevet  Captain  Commanding,  4'c.,  §c. 


The  estimates,  as  they  relate  to  the  Indian  service  solely,  and  as  they  are  not  approved  by 
me,  are  not  submitted.  The  Nez  Perces  are  almost  exclusively  in  Washington  Territory ;  and 
being  closely  affiliated  with  the  other  tribes  of  the  Territory,  accompanying  them  always  in  their 
annual  hunt,  they  should  be  attached  to  the  Washington  superintendency.  There  should  be  three 
agencies  in  the  Territory — the  eastern,  central,  and  western  agencies — for  reasons  set  forth  in 
my  reports  to  the  Indian  bureau,  and  which  have  been  approved  both  by  the  department  and  by 
Congress.  By  a  law  of  Congress  it  is  made  the  duty  of  the  officers  of  the  Indian  department  to 
make  all  treaties  with  Indians.  Hence,  the  proper  commissioners  will  be  the  Indian  superin 
tendent  and  his  agents.  There  are  minor  points  which  are  not  approved;  but  the  report,  gener 
ally,  is  submitted  as  one  of  ability,  and  as  exceedingly  creditable  to  its  author. 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 


Census   of  various  Indian  tribes  living  on  or  near  Puget  Sound,  N.  W.  America,  taken  by  W.   F. 

Tolmie  in  the  autumn  of  1844. 


Names  of  tribes. 

d 
1 

Women. 

>. 

0 

M 

00 

T3 
O 

BB 

<a 
§ 

53 

Total  population. 

Horses. 

Canoes. 

DO 

a 

s 
O 

Remarks. 

Stak-ta-mish       ......  ....  .... 

62 

62 

39 

21 

23 

207 

89 

27 

13 

Between  Olympia  and  Na- 

33 

44 

28 

25 

4 

135 

5 

17 

7 

Se-hehwa-mish     .....  ........ 

29 

23 

7 

30 

3 

92 

14 

7 

138 

162 

75 

66 

30 

471 

190 

92 

48 

69 

81 

37 

33 

7 

207 

S'Ko-ma-mish    ......  ....  .... 

34 

22 

34 

28 

7 

118 

34 

14 

158 

102 

113 

97 

64 

525 

5 

160 

93 

Sin-a-ho-mish  ................ 

102 

100 

61 

59 

322 

61 

28 

Sno-qual-mook    .-   ........... 

122 

153 

65 

25 

8 

373 

36 

27 

Sin-a-ah-mish          ....    ... 

78 

37 

47 

22 

11 

195 

36 

g 

Nooh-lum-nii  .........  ........ 

65 

57 

52 

47 

23 

244 

60 

15 

2,  669 

INDIAN   TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 

Captain  Wilkes's  Estimate — 1841. 


435 


Tribes  and  localities. 


Population. 


Chinooks 

Pillar  Rock,  Oak  Point,  and  Columbia  river. 
Cowlitz . . 


Chihalis  and  Puget  Sound 

Nisqually 

Port  Orchard 

Penn's  Cove,  Whidby's  island,  including  the  main  land,  (Scatchae  tribe) 

Birch  Bay 

Clallams  at  Port  Discovery,  New  Dungeness,  &c 

Port  Townsend 

Hood's  canal,  (Suquamish  and  Toando  tribe) 


209 
300 
350 
700 
200 
150 
650 
300 
350 
70 
500 


Total. 


3,779 


Estimate  of  Indian  tribes  in  the  Western  district  of  Washington  Territory — January,  1854. 


Names  of  tribes  and  bands. 

Where  located. 

a 

0) 

X 

Women. 

CD 

13 

§ 
^S 

"3 
1 

• 

3 

S 

"3 

S 

Remarks. 

Upper  Chinooks  —  5  bands, 

Columbia  river,  above  the  Cowlitz.. 

200 

Estimate  —  The  upper  of  these 

not    including   Cascade 
band. 

Lower  Chinooks  — 
Chinook  band........  } 

Columbia  river,  below  the  Cowlitz, 

32 

34 

66 

bands  are  mixed  with  the  Kli- 
katats;   the  lower  with  the 
Cowlitz. 

One  of  these  is  intermixed  with 

Four      others,      (esti-  \ 

and  Shoalwater  bay. 

50 

116 

Chihalis 

Chihalis  ......  ....  ...... 

Gray's  harbor  and  Lower  Chihalis 

100 

Estimate 

Do  

river. 
Northern  forks  Chihalis  river  ...  

200 

Estimate. 

300 

Cowlitz  and  Upper  Chihalis. 

On  Cowlitz  river  and  the  Chihalis, 

165 

The   two   have    become    alto 

Tai-tin-a-pam  ..  ......  

above  the  Satsop. 
Base  of  mountains  on  Cowlitz,  &c.. 

75 

gether  intermixed. 
Estimate. 

Quin-aik,  &c.  ......  ...... 

Coast  from  Gray's  harbor  northward. 

500 

Estimate. 

Cape  Flattery  and  vicinity.  ....  .... 

150 

Estimate. 

S'Klallams  

Straits  of  Ftica  

Kahtai       .  

Port  Townsend    ................. 

67 

88 

155 

Ka-quaitl  .....  .......... 

Port  Discovery  .....  

24 

26 

50 

Stent-lum                    ...... 

New  Dungeness         .............. 

79 

91 

170 

All  others  .....  ...... 

False  Duugeness,  &c.,  westward... 

475 

The  last  estimated. 

850 

Chiina-kurn  ...      .    ...... 

Port  Townsend.       ............... 

70 

123 

109 

265 

Some  of  the  women  omitted  in 

Sko-ko-mish    ......  ...... 

Hood's  canal  —  upper  end  ....  ...... 

200 

the  count,  but  estimated. 
Sko-ko-mish  estimated. 

ARK. 

Guak-s'n-a-mish  .......... 

Case's  inlet,  &c  ......  ....  ....  .... 

19 

21 

40 

S'Kosle-ma-mish        ...... 

Case's  inlet,  &c  ..   .............. 

14 

13 

27 

Sa-heh-wa-mish           ...... 

Hammersly's  inlet  &c  ........... 

11 

12 

23 

Sa-wa-mish           ...  ...... 

Totten's  inlet,  &c               ......... 

2 

1 

3 

Squa-aitl      --.  .       ...... 

Eld's  inlet,  &c    .       ............. 

22 

23 

45 

Stell-cha-sa-mish.  ........ 

Budd's  inlet,  &c.  ......  ...  

20 

Estimate 

Nov-seh-chatl  ............ 

South  bay.  ...  .  .  .......  

12 

Estimate. 

170 

Squalli-ah-mish  —  six  bands  . 

Nisqually  river  and  vicinity.  ....  . 

84 

100 

184 

Steila-coom-a-mish  .  ...... 

25 

209 

Pu-yallup-a-mish.  ..  ... 

Mouth  of  Puyallup  river,  &c  .  .  

50 

Estimate 

T'Qua-qua-mish  

Heads  of  do  .do..  .  .  

50 

Estimate 

inn 

Su-qua-mish    ......  .... 

Peninsula    between    Hood's    canal 

215 

270 

48" 

S'slo-ma-mish  ....  ........ 

and  Admiralty  inlet. 
Vaston's  island  ......  ......  ...... 

18 

15 

33 

ma 

436 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 
ESTIMATE— Continued. 


Names  of  tribes  and  bauds. 

Where  located. 

@ 
8 

Women. 

• 

T3 

a 

03 

.a 
*3 
"o 
H 

o 

£ 

*C 

3 

"o 
H 

Remarks. 

Lake  Fork,  D'Wamish  river  

89 
71 

73 

30 

162 
101 

8 
50 
30 

351 

Part  of  the  women  omitted,  but 
included  in  the  total. 

Estimate. 

Estimate. 
Estimate. 

Estimate. 

Sa-ma-uiish  ^ 

Head  of  White  river  

Head  of  Green  river  

c    i-       •  h 

Main  White  river  

South  end  Whidby's  I.  L.,  Sinaho- 
mish  river. 
Upper  branches,  north  side  Sinaho- 
ruish  river. 
Upper  branches,  N.  side  Sinaho-  ) 
mish  river.                                    ) 
South  fork,  north  side  Sinahomish 
river. 
Sto-luch-wa-mish  river  &c   ...  ... 

161 

138 

350 

300 
195 

Sky-wa-mish  ? 

Sk-tah-le  gum  $ 

845 
275 

200 
75 

Kik-i-allis  river,  L.  Whidby's  island. 
Skagit  river  and  Penn's  Cove...... 

Skagit    --  . 

300 
300 

N'qua-cha-mish  ........  ^ 

Branches  of  Skagit  river  

Sma-lih-hu  1 

Mis-kai-whu  J 

Sa-ku-ine-hu    .    .......J 

North  end  Whidby's  island  .  .... 

600 

300 

150 
450 
450 
250 

7,  559 

Soui-na-mish          ......  ~^ 

Sin-a-ah-mish  J 

Samish  river  and  Bellingham  bay.  .. 

Nook-sank                   ..   ... 

Lum-mi  ......  .......... 

Lummi  river  and  peninsula  

Skim-i-ah-moo            .  .   . 

Between  Lummi  Point  and  Fraser's 
river. 

FORM    OF    CENSUS    RETURN. GENERAL    INSTRUCTIONS. 

The  census  should  be  taken  every  year  at  the  time  when  the  Indians  are  most  collected  together. 
The  easiest  method  of  obtaining  it,  and  liable  to  least  chance  of  confounding  different  tribes,  is 
to  employ  the  chief  or  head  man  to  count  by  tallies  of  sticks.  Special  pains  should  be  taken  to 
ascertain  correctly  the  number  of  bands  into  which  each  tribe  is  divided,  and  the  names  of  the 
petty  as  well  as  the  principal  chief.  Any  other  statistical  details  may  be  stated  under  the  head 
of  general  remarks. 

The  report  must  be  forwarded  to  the  superintendent,  with  the  estimates  of  the  agency  for  the 
service  of  the  ensuing  year. 


/"X./V,.              .        ^f                                                                         I 

and  belonging  to  it 
Territory,  tak 

li 

"J 

idians,  lii 

nng  at 
agent. 

m                       1C  r.       i 

» 

Names  of  bands  and 
tribes. 

Names  of  chiefs  and  sub- 
chiefs. 

Principal  residence. 

d 
-_ 

^ 

Women. 

GO 

z' 

PQ 

— 

'•3 

> 
- 

j3 

Canoes. 

Horses. 

_® 

Bushels  of 
potatoes. 

Remarks. 

INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  437 

40.     REPORT  OF  LIEUT.  JOHN  MULLAN,  u.  s.  A.,  ON  THE  INDIAN  TRIBES  IN  THE  EASTERN  PORTION 

OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 

CAMP  STEVENS,  BITTER  ROOT  VALLEY, 

Washington  Territory,  November  18,  1853. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  state  that  your  instructions  with  reference  to  the  council  of  Indians 
to  be  held  at  Fort  Benton  during  the  coming  season  have  been  duly  carried  out,  and  information 
has  been  given  to  all  Indians  visiting  this  place  concerning  the  same.  The  objects  and  results 
to  be  obtained  have  been  fully  set  before  them  and  explained  in  detail,  and  now  especially  do  the 
Flatheads  await  particularly  for  the  expected  change  that  will  be  wrought,  through  the  agency 
of  the  government,  in  their  relations  with  the  Blackfeet  Indians. 

The  Flatheads,  as  a  nation,  have  more  reason  to  complain  of  a  want  of  attention  and  care,  on 
the  part  of  the  government,  than  any  other  tribe  of  Indians,  probably,  in  North  America. 

Their  numbers  have  been  so  greatly  diminished  during  the  last  few  years,  by  being  murdered 
by  the  Blackfeet,  that  at  present  there  remains  but  a  handful  of  the  noblest  of  the  Indian  tribes 
of  North  America  to  tell  the  tale  of  woe,  misery,  and  misfortune,  that  they  have  suffered  at  the 
hands  of  the  Blackfeet,  these  hell-hounds  of  the  mountains. 

For  years  now  has  their  country  been  the  theatre  where  have  been  committed  murders  the 
most  brutal,  and  robberies  the  most  bold  and  daring,  until  there  is  not  left  a  spot  but  that  is 
pointed  out  to  the  traveller  where  some  innocent  and  unsuspecting  Flathead  was  put  to  the  knife 
in  cold  blood,  or  where  were  shot  down  scores  of  friendly  Indians,  by  these  devils  of  the  mount 
ains.  So  long  has  this  state  of  things  existed,  the  word  "  Blackfoot"  has  become  the  by -word  of 
terror  and  fear  among  all  the  tribes  of  Indians  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains  ;  and  now  it  is  that 
the  young  Flathead  child  is  taught,  as  soon  as  it  can  comprehend  the  words  of  its  father,  to 
watch  and  guard  his  nation  against  the  inroads  of  these  devilish  fiends. 

Thus  are  the  seeds  of  enmity  and  hate  thus  early  sown;  and  when  the  child  becomes  the  full- 
grown  man,  he  deems  it  his  duty,  a  duty  he  owes  not  only  to  his  family  but  to  his  tribe,  to  ward 
off  the  encroachments  of  these  their  enemies.  Thus  it  is  that  deadly  feuds  have  ever  existed 
among  these  Indians,  and  so  will  they  ever  exist  until  our  government  shall  take  such  measures 
as  shall  put  an  end  to  the  same. 

When  you  passed  through  the  country  of  the  Blackfoot  nation,  they  promised  to  live  on  terms 
of  friendship  with  their  neighbors  the  Flatheads,  and  now  I  have  to  communicate  that  since  that 
time  they  have  kept  their  promise  most  faithlessly.  News  has  just  reached  me,  by  the  Pend 
d'Oreille  Indians,  that  while  the  chief,  Victor,  was  on  his  way  to  the  buffalo  hunt,  east  of  the 
Missouri,  he  encamped  on  a  prairie  after  having  crossed  the  dividing  ridge,  and  while  there  a 
part  of  his  horses  were  stolen  by  a  war  party  of  Blackfeet.  There  were  Pend  d'Oreilles  with 
him  also  at  the  time.  The  Flatheads  started  in  pursuit  of  the  Blackfeet,  and  succeeded  in  killing 
one  and  wounding  a  second.  The  dead  body  of  the  Blackfoot  was  seen  by  Mr.  Tinkham's  party 
on  their  route  from  Fort  Benton  to  this  place.  The  Pend  d'Oreilles  being  highly  incensed  at  this 
want  of  faith  on  the  part  of  the  Blackfeet,  they  having  been  told  by  Victor  that  they  had  promised 
you  most  faithfully  to  abstain  from  all  further  depredations,  followed  the  Blackfeet  into  Fort 
Benton,  and  there  seeing  a  band  of  horses  and  mules,  they  chose  from  this  band  a  number  of 
Indian  horses.  These  they  thought  belonged  to  the  American  Fur  Company.  They  reason 
thus  :  "  Here  are  these  whites,  the  employes  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  who  have  bought, 
and  who  do  still  buy,  from  the  Blackfeet  the  horses  that  they  steal  from  us,  thus  giving  encour 
agement  to  their  thieving  propensities  ;  and  here  are  some  of  our  horses ;  we  will  take  them  off;" 
and  so  they  did.  On  arriving  at  the  camp  of  Victor  they  narrated  what  had  taken  place,  when 
the  chief  Victor  told  the  Pend  d'Oreille  chief  to  take  the  horses  back  to  Fort  Benton,  and  turn 
them  over  to  the  chief  at  the  fort;  and  this  they  did.  The  horses  were  turned  over  to  Mr.  Clark 
at  Fort  Benton.  These  same  Pend  d'Oreilles  joined  Mr.  Tinkham  on  their  return,  on  his  fifth 
day  out  from  Fort  Benton,  and  accompanied  him  to  the  village  of  St.  Mary's. 


438  INDIAN    TRIBES   OP   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

The  chief  Victor  said  that  the  Flatheads  had  promised  to  live  in  peace  with  the  Blackfeet,  and 
only  to  war  when  their  lives  were  threatened,  and  that  none  of  his  men  should  steal  horses 
from  either  the  whites  or  Indians ;  that,  since  you  had  promised  to  protect  them,  the  matter 
should  be  referred  to  you.  Here,  then,  is  an  act  of  bravery,  nobleness,  and  honesty,  on  the 
part  of  these  Indians,  that  is  but  seldom,  if  ever,  met  with  among  any  other  tribe  of  Indians, 
either  east  or  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains ;  and  here,  too,  is  a  strong  and  evident  example  of 
the  reputed  faithlessness  of  the  Blackfoot  nation. 

This  last  act  of  bad  faith  on  the  part  of  the  Blackfeet  has  occurred  at  a  most  unpropitious 
period.  Since  here  I  have  told  the  Pend  d'Oreilles  and  Flatheads  of  the  council  to  be  held  at 
Fort  Benton,  and  the  promises  of  the  Blackfeet;  but  here  the  Blackfeet,  by  their  acts,  have 
given  the  lie  to  everything  that  I  have  told  the  Flatheads  ;  and  now  I  fear  that  the  Flatheads 
will  place  all  the  promises  made  you  by  the  Blackfeet  in  the  same  category  that  they  have  placed 
those  made  to  them  and  others  for  the  last  half  century.  They  have  told  me  that  the  Blackfeet 
have  made  the  same  promises  time  and  again,  and  as  often  have  they  been  violated.  And  now 
I  would  most  urgently  recommend  to  you  that  the  absolute  and  great  necessity  of  the  establish 
ment  of  a  military  post,  at  or  near  Fort  Benton,  be  set  forth  before  the  proper  department,  and 
that  immediate  action  be  taken  on  it.  The  necessity  for  this  is  becoming  more  and  more  appar 
ent,  and  is  being  more  and  more  felt  every  day.  The  presence  of  a  military  force  only  will 
restrain  the  Blackfeet  from  their  incursions  and  depredations  on  their  neighbors.  The  council, 
should  it  be  held  next  summer,  will  probably  do  a  great  deal  towards  the  settling  of  the  feuds 
that  exist  among  these  northern  tribes ;  but  I  fear  that  it  alone  will  prove  ineffectual.  It,  how 
ever,  with  the  presence  of  a  military  force,  will,  I  think,  succeed  in  putting  an  end  to  the  enmity 
that  has  existed  among  these  tribes  for  centuries  back. 

They  have  never  been  made  aware  of  the  power  and  influence  of  the  government,  save  in 
your  council  with  them  at  Fort  Benton  ;  and  what  they  now  need  is  to  have  the  fear  of  the 
government  held  over  them.  And  a  policy  I  should  recommend  would  be,  should  they  con 
tinue  to  keep  their  pledges  as  faithlessly  as  they  have  before,  that  our  military  force  should  be 
sent  among  them,  put  every  man,  woman  and  child  to  the  knife,  burn  down  their  villages,  and 
thus  teach  the  nation  that  since  persuasion  will  not,  force  must  and  shall  effect  the  ends  that 
we  have  in  view.  This  will  be  a  forcible,  and,  I  think,  salutary  example  to  them,  and  will,  I 
think,  be  the  only  means  of  accomplishing  the  purposes  of  the  government.  They  had  better  by 
far  be  totally  exterminated  than  left  to  prowl  the  mountains,  murdering,  plundering,  and  carrying 
everything  before  them. 

I  have  also  found,  myself,  in  this  valley,  a  Nez  Perces  scalp  taken  by  the  Blackfeet  quite 
recently,  and  but  a  few  days  have  elapsed  since  twenty-five  of  them  were  taken  at  Hell  Gate ; 
and  thus,  I  think,  they  will  ever  be  through  the  land  of  the  Flatheads,  until  they  receive  a 
prompt,  thorough,  and  severe  chastisement  at  the  hands  of  the  government. 

Truly,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  MULLAN, 
Lieutenant  United  States  Army. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Command  of  N.  P.  Railroad  Survey,  Sfc. 


FORT  HALL,  OREGON  TERRITORY, 

December  14,  1853. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  report,  that  previous  to  leaving  the  country  of  the  Flathead  Indians, 
on  the  28th  of  November  last,  I  had  assembled  the  chiefs  and  principal  men  of  the  tribe  together, 
when  I  distributed  among  them  such  presents  as  you  left  with  me,  and  at  the  same  time  com- 


INDIAN    TRIBES    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  439 

municated  to  them  what  you  had  done,  and  what  you  had  intended  and  promised  to  do  for  them; 
and  particularly  setting  before  them  the  objects  of  the  council  to  be  held  at  Fort  Benton  during 
the  next  summer.  They  received  the  intelligence  of  the  council  with  much  joy  and  exultation, 
and  they  now  look  forward  to  the  coming  summer  as  a  time  from  which  they  are  to  date  a  new 
and  happy  period  in  their  nation's  history.  In  reply  to  the  many  things  told  them,  they  said  they 
were  deeply  and  fully  aware  that  they  were  a  helpless  and  miserable  race  of  beings;  but  now 
their  hearts  were  glad  to  hear  that  the  government  had  not  neglected  them,  but  that  it  intended 
to  send  an  agent  among  them,  who  would  superintend  their  interest  and  welfare ;  they  said  whai 
they  wanted  the  government  to  do  for  them  now  was,  to  send  a  man  among  them  who  would 
teach  them  how  to  till  the  soil,  and  to  send  them  agricultural  implements  and  seeds ;  and  that 
they  neither  desired  nor  demanded  more  than  this. 

And  now  what  1  wrould  recommend  is  the  appointment  of  an  intelligent,  reliable  man ;  one 
who,  with  a  good  moral  character,  combines  a  degree  of  firmness  and  resoluteness,  and  at  the 
same  time  is  an  excellent  practical  farmer,  and  who  is  also  a  member  of  the  Catholic 
church.  This  last  I  mention  and  recommend  from  the  fact  that  the  Jesuit  priests  have  been 
among  the  Flatheads  for  ten  or  twelve  years,  and  have  laid  among  them  a  foundation  upon  a 
better  and  firmer  basis  than  has  ever  been  laid  among  any  Indian  tribe  either  east  or  west  of  the 
mountains,  upon  which  a  superstructure  can  now  be  built  which  will  be  an  ornament  not  only  to 
the  district  where  it  will  be  erected,  but  to  our  whole  nation.  This  man,  so  appointed,  could 
perform  the  duties  of  Indian  sub-agent;  could  enclose  a  farm,  and  have  the  necessary  buildings, 
in  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  to  whom  the  Indians  could  apply  in  need  for  information  and  help ; 
who,  by  his  high  moral  stand,  could  and  would  exert  a  powerful  and  salutary  influence  over  the 
Indians ;  and  who  could,  in  case  the  mission  is  re-established  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  fully  co 
operate  with  the  priests  there  stationed,  and  cause  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  at  no  distant  day,  to 
teem  with  life,  business,  and  happiness.  Such  a  man,  no  doubt,  can  be  found  in  Oregon  who 
would  willingly  accept  of  such  a  post;  if  not  in  Oregon,  at  least  in  the  States.  And  another 
thing  I  would  recommend  would  be,  that  the  man  should  be  a  married  man,  with  a  family.  He 
would  thus  have  every  inducement  to  comfortably  settle  himself  for  life,  and  be  less  disposed  to 
become  dissatisfied,  and  thus  destroy  the  good  intentions  of  those  who  have  the  supervision  of 
our  Indian  affairs.  While  at  this  place,  application  has  been  made  to  me,  by  a  man  living  at 
Fort  Hall,  for  the  post  for  his  father,  who  at  present  is  a  farmer  at  Manayunk,  Philadelphia 
county,  Pennsylvania,  and  also  a  Catholic,  with  a  family.  His  name  is  Hugh  Damsy.  I  told 
him  I  would  mention  his  case  to  you.  As  to  who  he  is,  his  capacity,  &c.,  I  know  nothing; 
only  his  son  seems  to  be  an  upright,  sober  man,  and  who,  from  year  to  year,  trades  on  the  emi 
grant  road. 

I  think  myself  some  man  should  be  appointed  whom  you  well  know,  or  who  comes  to  you 
recommended  by  those  who  have  had  an  opportunity  of  judging  of  him.  That  there  is  a  neces 
sity,  and  that  a  great  one,  that  some  one  should  be  among  the  Flatheads  to  teach  them  to  till  the 
soil,  there  can  be  no  manner  of  doubt ;  and  as  it  has  been  partially  promised  them,  and  as  they 
fully  expect  it,  I  recommend  to  you  that  it  be  urgently  set  forth  before  the  proper  department, 
and  that  action  should  be  had  upon  it  during  the  session  of  the  coming  Congress.  I  shall  be  able 
to  send  you,  by  Lieutenant  Grover,  the  present  number  of  the  Flatheads,  their  relations,  power, 
intercourse  with  other  tribes,  &c.  The  report  of  the  council  at  Fort  Benton  has  spread  throughout 
the  whole  Indian  country  as  on  the  wings  of  lightning,  and  has  been  received  as  the  harbinger  of 
glad  tidings  to  all.  It  is  a  matter  that  must  not  be  let  fall  to  the  ground,  but  the  sparks  that  have 
been  struck  by  our  expedition  must  be  fanned  into  a  flame  until  it  shall  envelope  all  the  Indian 
tribes  both  east  and  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  For  myself,  I  feel  a  deep  interest  in  it,  and, 
for  one,  should  regret  to  hear  that  our  government  had  overlooked,  either  partially  or  completely, 
the  interests  of  so  many  thousands  of  souls  that  it  is  in  duty  bound  to  protect.  One  great  result 
obtained  from  this  council,  and  of  course  the  treaty,  will  be  the  settling  of  the  whole  of  the  eastern 


440  INDIAN    TRIBES    OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

portions  of  Washington  and  Oregon  Territories,  and  thus  blot  out  forever  from  the  map  of  our 
country  what  is  now  looked  upon  as  the  great  desert,  as  it  were,  extending  from  the  Missouri  to 
a  hundred  miles  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  thus  occupying  a  central  position  in  the  heart  of 
our  country,  and  replace  it  by  one  continued  belt  of  thriving  settlements  and  villages,  where  the 
stir  and  bustle  of  business  shall  resound,  without  cessation,  as  along  our  civilized  and  settled 
borders.  Should  the  matter  be  let  passed  during  the  coming  season,  I  doubt  whether  it  can  ever 
be  undertaken  again  under  as  favorable  auspices.  Should  you  have  received  any  intelligence 
from  Washington  in  regard  to  the  subject,  you  will  oblige  me  by  referring  to  it  in  your  commu 
nication  to  me  in  the  Bitter  Root  valley. 

Truly,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  MULLAN, 

Lieutenant  United  States  Army. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Command  of  N.  P.  Railroad  Survey,  fyc. 


CANTONMENT  STEVENS,  BITTER  ROOT  VALLEY, 

Washington  Territory,  January  25,  1854. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  report  that,  in  conformity  to  your  letter  of  instructions,  dated  at  the 
Flathead  village  of  St.  Mary's,  October  3,  1853,  "to  report  on  the  probable  cost  of  erecting 
agency  buildings,  &c.,  in  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  and  the  cost  necessary  for  keeping  up  the  same," 
upon  examination  I  find  there  will  be  needed  a  building  for  an  agent,  for  the  Indian  farmer, 
a  council-room,  a  store-room,  a  blacksmith's  shop,  a  building  for  the  blacksmith,  and  two  em 
ployes  for  the  Indian  farmer,  and  a  room  for  the  interpreter.  I  deem  it  necessary  that  a  full 
agent  should  be  sent  to  this  section,  and  that  the  tribes  included  in  this  agency  should  be  the 
Flatheads,  the  Pend  d'Oreilles,  and  the  Kootenaies  ;  for  these  but  one  interpreter  will  be  needed, 
since  the  man  Gabriel,  whom  I  have  employed  as  interpreter,  speaks  each  of  the  languages,  and 
who  could  be  appointed  the  interpreter  for  the  agency.  I  think  the  agency  should  be  established 
at  or  somewhere  near  the  "Hell  Gate,"  which  is  the  great  thoroughfare  for  all  the  Indians  in 
going  and  returning  from  the  buffalo  hunt  east  of  the  mountains.  Should  any  sub-agents  be  ap 
pointed,  one  is  needed,  beyond  a  doubt,  among  the  Flathead  Indians  ;  and  I  therefore  recommend 
to  you  that  an  appropriation  of  five  thousand  dollars  be  made  to  defray  the  expenses  of  erecting 
the  buildings,  furnishing  five  yoke  of  oxen,  supplying  blacksmith's  tools,  &c.,  furnishing  ten  ploughs, 
seed  for  farming,  one  wagon,  such  carpenter's  tools  as  would  be  needed,  and,  in  a  word,  for 
supplying  the  agency  with  everything  needed.  I  am  confident  that  the  Indians  will  do  a  great 
deal  towards  the  erection  of  the  buildings,  &c. 

There  will  be  needed,  then,  one  agent — pay $1,500  00 

One  interpreter 500  00 

[The  pay  should  be  $500  for  an  interpreter,  since  he  can  speak  three  languages.] 

Pay  of  Indian  farmer 500  00 

Pay  of  two  men  associated  with  the  farmer,  at  $300 600  00 

Presents  to  Indians  visiting  agency,  &c.,  in  goods,  &c 500  00 

Provisions  to  be  given  to  Indians  visiting  the  agency  on  business,  &c.,  to  consist  of 

sugar,  coffee,  beans,  rice,  and  hard  bread 500  00 

Meat  provision  to  be  obtained  in  the  country 500  00 


4,600  00 
For  travelling  and  contingent  expenses 1,000  00 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  441 

making  a  total  of  five  thousand  six  hundred  dollars  for  the  annual  expense  for  keeping  up  the 
agency,  &c.,  which,  in  my  judgment,  is  the  smallest  possible  amount  with  which  the  agency  can 
be  carried  on.  T  have  made  the  estimates  the  smallest  possible,  judging  from  what  experience  I 
have  had  among  the  Indians  in  this  valley.  With  regard  to  the  remaining  items  referred  to  in 
your  letter,  I  will  report  in  my  next  communication,  as  there  are  points  which  need  more  consid 
eration  than  I  have  as  yet  had  time  to  devote  to  them. 

Truly,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  MULLAN, 
Lieutenant  U.  S.  Army. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Command  of  N.  P.  Railroad  Survey,  &fc. 

It  seems  to  me  that  the  supply  for  the  agency  in  this  valley  might  be  supplied  by  steamboat 
navigation  up  the  Missouri  to  Fort  Benton,  thence  across  the  mountains  to  this  point.  I  will  be 
able,  however,  to  report  more  in  detail  on  this  point  on  my  return  from  Fort  Benton. 

J.  MULLAN. 


41.  REPORTS  OF  MR.  JAMES  DOTY  ON  THE  INDIAN  TRIBES  OF  THE  BLACKFOOT  NATION. 

FORT  BENTON,  December  28,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR  :  Enclosed  you  have  additional  receipts,  omitted  to  be  sent  by  Mr.  Tinkham,  for 
quartermaster's  property  in  my  hands. 

As  requested  in  your  letter  of  October  3,  1853,  I  send  herewith  a  report  upon  those  particu 
lars  concerning  the  Blackfoot  nation  which  you  directed  me  to  examine.  It  includes  the  plan 
of  a  farm  and  list  of  agricultural  instruments,  and  is  accompanied  by  a  rough  draught  of  the 
agency  buildings  deemed  necessary. 

By  the  enclosed  thermometrical  register,  since  October  1st,  you  will  perceive  that  we  have 
had  no  cold  weather,  no  snow,  and  indeed  no  winter.  Can  the  same  be  said  of  the  entrance  to 
the  South  Pass  ? 

We  are  passing  the  winter  comfortably  if  not  pleasantly.  The  men  have  conducted  them- 
elves  in  all  respects  in  a  praiseworthy  manner. 

Rations  will  hold  out  tolerably  well,  with  the  exception  of  flour  and  coffee.  In  case  an  express 
is  sent  to  this  point,  I  would  suggest  that  a  pack-horse  or  two  be  also  sent,  loaded  with  ilour, 
coffee,  and  beans. 

Early  in  this  month  I  procured,  without  cost,  about  1,000  pounds  of  fresh  meat  by  sending 
out  pack-horses  with  the  Indian  hunters,  so  there  is  no  danger  of  starvation.  The  oxen,  horses, 
and  mules  are  in  first-rate  condition;  many  of  them  are  fat. 

I  am  happy  to  inform  you  that  the  three  horses  reported  to  you  as  stolen  have  been  returned ; 
so  that  up  to  date  not  an  animal  in  my  charge  has  been  lost. 

The  recovery  of  these  horses  is  worthy  of  notice,  as  indicating,  in  the  Indians  who  returned 
them,  an  honesty,  and  moral  as  well  as  physical  courage,  seldom  seen  among  white  men,  and 
never  expected  of  Indians. 

On  the  1st  of  November,  six  Pend  d'Oreille  Indians  came  to  this  post  and  delivered  up  all 
the  horses  that  were  stolen.  It  appears  that  they  were  taken  by  two  young  Pend  d'Oreilles,  and 
run  to  the  Pend  d'Oreille  camp,  then  hunting  beyond  the  Muscle  Shell,  under  the  command  of 
the  chief  of  that  nation,  "Alexander."  The  horses  were  recognised  by  the  stamps  as  belonging 
to  the  whites,  and  the  young  men  confessed  having  stolen  them  at  this  post.  A  council  was  held, 
and  it  was  determined  that  it  was  a  great  sin  to  steal  horses  from  white  men  wrho  were  friendly 
to  them;  that  the  wishes  of  the  "Great  Soldier  Chief,"  who  had  been  at  the  St.  Mary's,  were 
known  to  them,  and  they  had  promised  compliance  with  them ;  that  stealing  these  horses  would 
56/ 


442  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 

give  the  Pend  cl'Oreilles  the  name  of  liars  and  triflers;  that  they  had  always  borne  a  good  name, 
and  were  ashamed  to  have  mean  things  said  of  them  now :  therefore,  the  horses  must  be  taken 
back  by  their  great  chief  and  five  principal  men  of  the  tribe ;  accordingly,  they  came  boldly  to 
the  fort  and  delivered  up  the  horses  without  asking  any  reward,  but,  on  the  contrary,  express 
ing  much  sorrow  and  shame  that  they  had  been  taken. 

Thus  these  six  Indians  proved  themselves  not  only  honest,  but  brave  in  the  highest  degree, 
coming,  as  they  did,  five  days'  and  nights'  march  into  an  enemy's  country  simply  to  do  an  act 
of  justice  to  strangers.  They  remained  here  two  days,  and  on  departing  were  accompanied 
by  Mr.  Clarke  and  myself  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  on  their  journey.  During  their  stay  here 
a  number  of  Piegan  warriors  about  the  fort  became  very  troublesome  to  the  strangers ;  so  much 
so,  that  we  were  compelled  to  detail  a  strong  guard  for  their  protection. 

Suitable  presents  were  given  them  from  the  Indian  goods  left  with  me.  No  event  of  great 
importance  has  occurred  among  the  Indians  since  your  departure. 

The  "Little  Dog's"  camp  was  attacked  not  long  since  by  a  party  of  Crees  and  Assiniboins, 
and  himself  and  another  were  wounded.  He  has,  however,  determined  not  to  revenge  it,  but  to 
wait  until  the  council  is  held. 

I  am  sorry  to  inform  you  that  many  of  the  Indians  do  not  abide  by  their  promises  to  remain 
at  peace  this  winter.  About  five  hundred,  principally  Piegans,  have  passed  this  post,  on  their 
way  to  war,  since  October  1st;  about  one  hundred  were  induced  to  turn  back.  In  the  same 
time  eight  hundred  or  a  thousand  warriors  must  have  passed  above  and  below  the  fort,  on 
their  way  to  the  Flatheads,  Snakes,  and  Crows,  as  I  have,  from  time  to  time,  heard  of  large 
parties  of  Bloods,  Blackfeet,  and  Gros  Ventres,  on  the  march ;  and  parties  are  constantly  going 
from  the  different  bands. 

Several  of  the  chiefs  have  taken  a  very  decided  stand  for  peace,  and  keep  the  warriors  of  their 
own  bands  at  home.  Others  say,  "  this  is  the  last  winter  we  can  go  to  war  ;  next  summer  the 
white  soldiers  will  stop  us ;  therefore,  let  us  steal  this  winter  all  the  horses  we  can." 

It  is  becoming  a  serious  question  in  my  mind  whether  these  Indians  will  desist  from  their 
predatory  incursions  until  a  sufficient  military  force  is  stationed  in  the  country  to  check  every 
attempt  at  sending  out  war  parties.  No  military  force,  however,  is  needed  to  protect  white 
men  in  this  country. 

Good  interpreters  for  the  government  are  very  difficult  to  procure,  because  such  can  get 
higher  wages  from  the  traders  than  the  government  pays.  The  only  man  I  can  at  present 
recommend  is  a  Mr.  Bird.  He  is  a  half-breed,  English  and  Blackfoot;  is  an  elderly  man, 
respectable  and  intelligent,  and  the  best  interpreter  in  the  country.  He  may  not  wish  the  situa 
tion  of  interpreter  at  the  agency,  but  can  no  doubt  be  engaged  for  a  council. 

In  my  intercourse  with  these  Indians  I  have  been  especially  careful  to  have  them  understand 
that  I  made  them  no  promises. 

Trusting  that  we  may  see  you  at  an  early  day  in  spring,  I  am,  very  respectfully  and  truly, 
yours, 

JAMES  DOTY. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Washington   Territory. 

FORT  BENTON,  December  29,  1853. 

SIR  :  In  compliance  with  the  request  contained  in  your  letter  of  October  3,  1853,  I  have 
the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report,  which  is  necessarily  incomplete  and  brief,  owing 
to  the  limited  time  for  acquiring  extended  and  accurate  information  upon  the  points  treated  of. 

The  numbers  1st,  2d,  3d,  &c.,  refer  to  the  like  numbered  inquiries  in  your  instructions 
from  the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs,  under  date  of  May  9,  1853,  and  to  which  you 
directed  my  attention. 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  443 

1st.  The  number  of  tribes  to  be  included  within  this  agency  is  one,  known  generally  as  the 
JBlackfoot  nation.  Their  general  locality,  which  is  understood  to  mean  the  country  in  which 
they  reside  or  hunt,  is  bounded  as  follows :  By  a  line  beginning  on  the  north,  where  the  50th 
parallel  crosses  the  Rocky  mountains;  thence  east  on  said  parallel  to  the  106th  meridian;  thence 
south  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Milk  river,  down  said  river  to  the  Missouri,  up  the  Missouri  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Judith ;  thence  up  the  Judith  to  its  source  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  north 
along  their  base  to  place  of  beginning. 

The  country  between  the  Missouri  and  the  headwaters  of  the  Yellowstone  is  unoccupied. 
It  is  the  great  road  of  the  Blackfoot  war  parties  to  and  from  the  Crows,  Flatheads,  and  Snakes. 
It  may  also  be  considered  as  a  transient  hunting  ground  of  the  Flatheads,  as  they  hunt  buffalo 
there  for  a  short  time  in  the  fall. 

2d.  The  Blackfoot  nation  is  divided  into  four  distinct  tribes  or  bands,  whose  names,  num 
bers,  and  localities  are  as  follows : 

The  Bloods. 350  lodges ;  2,450  population ;  875  warriors. 

The  Blackfeet 250  1,750  625 

The  Piegans 350  2,450  875 

The  Gros  Ventres. .  360  2,520  900 


Total 1,310  9,170  3,275 


The  Bloods  and  Blackfeet  occupy  the  country  upon  the  source  of  the  Marias  and  Milk  rivers 
to  the  50th  parallel  of  latitude. 

The  Piegans  occupy  the  country  between  Milk  and  Marias  rivers,  upon  Marias  river  and  the 
Teton,  and  between  the  Teton  and  the  Missouri. 

The  Gros  Ventres  occupy  the  country  bordering  upon  Milk  river  from  its  mouth  to  the  terri 
tory  of  the  Piegans.  These  Gros  Ventres,  although  incorporated  with  and  now  considered  a  part 
of  the  Blackfoot  nation,  are  clearly  a  band  of  Arrapahoes  who  seceded  from  their  nation  some 
forty  years  since,  passed  over  to  the  Crow  Indians,  were  plundered  and  killed  by  that  nation, 
losing  many  of  their  women  and  nearly  all  their  horses  and  guns.  They  wandered  over  this 
country  several  years,  plundered  two  forts  at  the  north,  were  driven  away  by  the  Kootenaies; 
and  finally,  in  a  destitute  and  miserable  condition,  settled  some  thirty  years  since  in  the  country 
they  now  occupy.  The  Blackfoot  nation  in  a  manner  adopted  them,  i.  e.,  made  a  lasting  peace, 
and  gave  them  many  horses.  The  traders  supplied  them  with  guns  and  ammunition;  their 
horses  increased;  they  made  many  robes  and  soon  became  wealthy,  and  are  now  more  inde 
pendent,  saucy,  and  unfriendly  to  the  whites  than  any  other  band  of  the  Blackfeet. 

The  Bloods,  Piegans,  and  Blackfeet  speak  the  same  language  peculiar  to  the  Blackfoot  nation. 

The  Gros  Ventres  speak  the  Arrapahoe  language,  which  is  not  understood  by  any  white  man 
or  Indian,  not  of  their  tribe,  in  this  country.  Most  of  the  Gros  Ventres,  however,  speak  the 
Blackfoot  sufficiently  for  purposes  of  trade. 

3d.  Their  character  is  warlike.  They  are  warriors  and  horse-thieves  by  profession  and  prac 
tice,  and  are  always  at  war  with  some  or  all  of  the  neighboring  nations. 

Their  present  disposition  towards  the  whites  is  unquestionably  friendly.  Undoubtedly,  a  party 
of  white  men  may  travel  through  this  country  in  perfect  safety.  The  only  danger  would  be,  that 
the  Indians  might  take  them  for  Indian  enemies  and  rush  upon  them  in  the  night.  Their  horses 
might  be  stolen,  unless  under  the  protection  of  a  chief  or  an  influential  white  man,  one  who  is 
friendly  and  well  known  to  them. 

4th.  The  only  white  inhabitants  of  this  country  are  the  traders  and  their  employe's  at  the 
American  Fur  Company's  post,  Fort  Benton,  and  at  Mr.  Harvey's,  or  the  opposition  fort. 
These  are  on  friendly  terms  with  the  Indians,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  fact  that  they  are  con- 


444  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

stantly  sending  traders  with  large  quantities  of  goods  to  remote  points  in  the  Blackfoot  country, 
who  are  not  only  permitted  to  go  and  come  without  molestation,  but  are  treated  with  much 
kindness  and  hospitality  at  the  camps.  The  horses  at  this  post  are  always  turned  out  to  pasture 
without  a  guard,  and  are  seldom  or  never  stolen. 

So  far  as  has  been  asceitained,  their  present  relations  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  are 
simply  those  of  a  limited  trade,  which  is  entirely  confined  to  a  portion  of  the  Blackfeet  and 
Blood  bands.  These  Indians  procure  in  the  northern  part  of  their  territory  a  considerable  num 
ber  of  small  peltries,  and  in  the  summer — at  which  season  they  go  farthest  north — trade  them 
at  one  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts  on  the  Saskatchawan  river;  "Chesterfield  House," 
I  think.  This  trade  is  carried  on  for  two  reasons:  first,  because  the  Indians  are  paid  there  a 
higher  price  for  their  small  peltries  than  is  given  by  American  traders;  secondly,  they  procure 
at  that  post  an  abundance  of  whiskey  ;  and  it  is  undoubtedly  this  latter  consideration  that  induces 
them  to  go.  In  the  winter  they  generally  come  upon  the  Marias  river  and  trade  their  robes  at  the 
American  traders'  winter  posts  on  that  river,  bt  cause  they  obtain  more  for  robes  here  than  at  the 
noith.  But  I  have  lately  understood  that  a  new  proprietor  at  Chesterfield  House  has  offered  for 
robes  the  same  price  that  is  paid  here ;  in  consequence  of  which,  a  large  number  of  Bloods  and 
Blackfeet  have  started  for  the  north.  Deeming  it  my  duty  so  to  do,  I  sent  them  tobacco  and  a 
message  to  induce  them  to  return ;  warning  them  that  in  case  they  did  not  return,  they  need  not 
expect  to  participate  in  the  benefits  of  a  treaty  that  might  be  concluded  with  the  remainder  of 
their  nation. 

5th.  No  conventional  arrangements  exist  between  the  Indians  and  white  inhabitants  of  this 
country  to  be  respected  in  the  event  of  a  treaty. 

6th,  7th,  and  Sth.  At  present  but  one  agent  will  be  required.  The  agency  should  be  located 
near  this  point,  and  embrace  the  four  above-named  tribes  or  bands  of  the  Blackfeet  nation. 

9th.  The  employes  required  at  present  for  the  contemplated  establishment  of  an  agency  and 
farm  will  be  one  interpreter,  one  farmer,  one  blacksmith,  and  three  laborers. 

]0th.  The  amount  required  for  the  erection  of  the  agency  buildings  and  fixtures  will  be 
$12,000.  A  rough  draught  of  the  buildings  contemplated  is  herewith  submitted,  and  an  offer  has 
been  made  to  construct  them  up^n  this  plan  for  the  price  above  mentioned  at  any  point  in  this 
vicinity.  It  is  proposed  to  use  adobes  in  the  construction  of  all  buildings.  I  consider  them  the 
cheapest,  warmest,  driest,  and  most  enduring  building  material  to  be  obtained  in  this  vicinity. 
Barns,  smull  outbuildings,  fences,  pickets,  &c.,  if  necessary,  will  be  constructed  by  agency  labor 
ers,  and  without  much  cost  to  the  department.  The  offer  to  erect  the  agency  buildings  is  by  Mr. 
Clarke,  at  SJ  0,000,  if  on  the  Highwood,  or  $12,000  at  Sun  river  or  other  points.  Being  in  the 
country,  and  situated  as  they  are,  either  Mr.  Clarke  or  Mr.  Harvey  can  underbid  any  one  out  of 
the  country;  and  I  consider  the  enclosed  plan,  at  the  price  mentioned,  the  cheapest  and  most 
practicable  method  of  building  the  establishment. 

llth.  The  contingent  expenses,  SI, 000. 

12th.  The  amount  of  presents  to  be  distributed  annually  will  probably  be  determined  when  a 
treaty  is  held  and  confirmed  ;  I  estimate  $4,000. 

13th.  For  provisions,  $1,000. 

I  regard  the  project  of  establishing  a  farm  for  these  Indians  as  entirely  practicable:  first, 
because  farms  have  succeeded  among  all  our  Indian  tribes  where  the  experiment  has  been 
thoroughly  tested;  second,  because  in  my  recent  journey  through  the  Piegan,  Blackfeet,  and  Blood 
Indian  camps,  the  establishment  of  an  agency  and  farm  was  fully  explained  to  all  the  principal 
chiefs,  and  not  only  were  they  unanimously  in  favor  of  the  project,  but  promised  that,  in  case  a 
farm  should  be  started,  they  and  their  people  would  work  upon  it  and  give  it  a  fair  trial.  I  have 
not  yet  visited  the  Gros  Ventres,  but  understand  that  for  several  years  they  have  been  very 
anxious  to  be  taught  how  to  cultivate  the  soil. 

I  propose  to  locate  the  agency  at  the  point  most  favorable  for  farming,  regard  of  course  being 


INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  445 

had  to  facilities  for  communication  with  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Missouri.  The  spring  and 
fall  are  the  most  favorable  periods  to  judge  of  the  general  nature  of  the  soil,  in  the  absence  of 
chemical  tests;  but  from  such  information  as  I  have  been  able  to  acquire  during  the  winter,  and 
consulting  the  wishes  of  the  Indians,  I  should  consider  a  point  on  the  Highwood  near  its  mouth, 
or  on  the  Sun  river  at  its  junction  with  the  Missouri,  favorable  locations  for  an  agency  and  farm. 
There  are  two  other  localities  that  may  be  mentioned:  the  valley  of  Marias  river,  and  the 
southern  slope  of  the  Bear's  Paw  mountain.  The  former  I  have  already  examined,  but  of  the 
latter  I  cannot  speak  with  certainty  until  an  examination  is  made  in  the  spring ;  but  I  think  they 
are  neither  of  them  equal  to  the  localities  first  mentioned. 

It  is  of  course  necessary  to  have  a  supply  of  the  best  simple  agricultural  implements,  and 
some  person  who  thoroughly  understands  their  use  to  instruct  the  Indians  how  to  use  them.  As 
precept  is  of  little  value  without  example,  it  is  proposed  to  employ  a  good  practical  farmer  and 
laborers  to  assist  him,  who  can  the  first  year  start  a  small  farm  and  cultivate  it  well.  This  may 
be  styled  a  seed  farm,  as  all  the  cereals  and  roots  adapted  to  a  northern  climate  Q^°uld  be 
cultivated.  The  cereals  that  succeed,  if  any,  will  furnish  the  seed,  and  the  vegetables  will  clearly 
indicate  which  of  them  can  succeed  in  this  soil  and  climate.  If  the  experiment  is  successful, 
then  the  second  year  a  large  farm  can  be  started,  seeded  with  those  grains  and  vegetables  that 
have  been  proved,  upon  which  all  the  Indians  who  choose  can  work  under  the  direction  of  the 
farmer,  with  the  preceding  year's  example  before  them,  and  encouraged  by  a  fair  certainty  that 
their  labor  will  not  be  in  vain.  With  all  the  Indians  I  am  acquainted  with,  a  failure  in  a  first 
attempt  is  losing  the  whole  battle;  they  can  rarely  be  brought  to  the  charge  again.  But,  by 
adopting  the  above  plan  of  farming,  such  a  failure  could  not  occur.  The  agricultural  implements, 
means  of  transportation,  &c.,  deemed  necessary  to  carry  on  the  business  of  the  farm  and  agency 
the  first  year,  are  given  below : 

3  yoke  of  oxen,  with  yokes;  2  heavy  wagons;    6  log  chains;  2  whip  saws;   2  cross-cut  saws; 

1  chest  of  carpenter's  tools;  2  dozen  Collins's  axes  and  handles;  £  dozen  shovels;  £  dozen  spades; 

2  steel  breaking  ploughs,  fourteen-inch  cut ;  6  cast  cross  ploughs ;  1  double  harrow  frame ;  4  grain 
cradles  and  scythes;  1  dozen  scythes  and  snaths;  1  dozen  steel  hoes;  1  dozen  pitchforks;  1 
grindstone;   1  dozen  scythe-stones. 

The  second  year  would  require  an  increase  proportionate  to  the  number  of  Indians  disposed 
to  work. 

In  conclusion,  I  think,  from  the  observations  I  have  been  able  to  make,  that  a  treaty  with 
these  Indians  and  the  establishment  of  an  agency  and  farm  in  their  country  will  do  much  towards 
changing  them  from  a  warlike  and  nomadic  to  a  peaceable  and  agricultural  nation.  I  trust  that 
you  may  accomplish  those  objects  at  an  early  day.  My  desires  as  well  as  my  duty  prompt  me 
to  aid  in  their  accomplishment  to  the  extent  of  my  ability. 

Hoping  that  the  information  contained  in  this  somewhat  hurried  report  may  meet  your  wishes, 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

JAMES  DOTY. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Washington  Territory. 


FORT  BENTON,  December  29,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR:  In  accordance  with  instructions,  I  have  performed  one  of  the  contemplated  trips 
to  the  winter  trading-posts.  Starting  from  here  on  the  14th  instant,  I  struck  Marias  river  at  the 
point  where  the  road  to  the  Three  Buttes  crossed  it.  A  large  number  of  the  Piegans  were 
encamped  at  this  point.  Remaining  here  two  days,  I  held  a  council  with  the  chiefs  and  principal 
men,  repeating  to  them,  in  substance,  your  speech  at  the  council  at  the  fort  the  day  before  your 
departure,  and  explaining  the  project  of  an  agency  and  farm ;  with  which  they  seemed  much 


446  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF   WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 

pleased,  and  expressed  their  willingness  to  work  on  a  farm  when  the  opportunity  should  be 
afforded  them. 

Travelled  up  the  river  fifty  miles,  running  a  compass  line  and  noting  the  topography.  Saw 
several  encampments,  and  met  many  Indians  on  their  march  down;  and  on  the  18th  reached 
"Ammell's  Houses."  Here  were  encamped  nearly  the  whole  of  the  Blood,  Blackfeet,  and 
Northern  Piegan  bands. 

A  council  was  held,  at  which  thirteen  of  the  great  chiefs  and  many  of  the  principal  men  were 
present.  I  spoke  to  them  much  the  same  as  I  had  spoken  to  the  Piegans,  but  at  greater  length. 
Several  of  the  chiefs  replied,  and  all  expressed  much  friendship  to  the  whites;  promised  to  attend 
the  council,  and  to  give  the  farm — with  the  idea  of  which  they  we.  e  much  pleased — a  fair  trial. 

The  great  Piegan  chief,  the  "Little  Gray  Head,"  who  has  taken  a  very  decided  stand  for 
peace  with  neighboring  tribes,  was  present,  and  I  gave  him  a  present  out  of  the  Indian  goods  left 
with  me.  Tobacco  purchased  of  Mr.  C.  was  given  to  the  principal  men. 

Learning  that  a  portion  of  the  Blood  Indians  were  in  camp  five  days'  march  to  the  north,  and 
intending  to  go  to  the  British  posts  to  trade,  I  sent  them  tobacco  and  a  message  to  induce  them 
to  turn  back. 

I  passed  two  days  here,  and  had  an  excellent  opportunity  to  acquire  much  interesting  informa 
tion  concerning  the  manners,  customs,  habits,  &c.,  of  these  Indians,  which  is  fully  recorded  in  my 
official  journal,  and  would  be  out  of  place  in  this  letter  or  a  brief  report.  Returned  to  Fort 
Benton  on  the  23d. 

You  will  learn  by  Messrs.  Tinkham  and  Grover  somewhat  concerning  my  intended  operations 
in  the  field  the  coming  spring;  but  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  express  my  idea  of  the  direction  in 
which  the  survey  is  to  be  conducted,  and  the  objects  to  be  accomplished  thereby. 

Having,  before  the  season  for  active  operations  arrived,  made  a  thorough  examination  of  the 
country  in  this  vicinity,  I  propose  to  commence  with  the  survey  of  Sun  river  from  its  mouth  to  its 
source ;  thence  to  the  head  of  Dearborn  river,  and  down  that  river  to  its  mouth ;  thence  to  the 
junction  of  Madison  and  Wisdom  rivers;  thence  to  the  sources  of  the  Muscle  Shell,  and  down 
that  river  to  a  point  near  its  mouth;  thence  parallel  with  the  Missouri,  crossing  and  examining 
Judith,  Big  Horn,  and  other  rivers,  to  Fort  Benton. 

Particular  regard  will  be  had  to  the  character  of  the  streams  ;  general  nature  of  the  soil;  tracts 
adapted  to  cultivation ;  the  timber  and  stone,  and  facilities  for  obtaining  them ;  the  collection  of 
mineralogical  and  geological  specimens,  and  making  an  extensive  botanical  and  natural  history 
collection. 

Lieutenant  Grover  leaves  me  a  Schmalcalder  compass,  so  that  an  accurate  survey  will  be 
insured.  A  sextant  will  be  used  to  determine  the  latitude. 

It  is  expected  that  this  survey  will  occupy  at  least  forty  days,  and,  undoubtedly,  much  valu 
able  and  interesting  information  will  be  acquired. 

As  I  shall  have  to  procure  another  man,  in  order  to  leave  two  of  my  present  command  at  the 
post — one  to  take  the  observations,  and  one  in  charge  of  the  government  property — I  think  that 
man  should  be  a  good  interpreter.  Arrangements  for  his  pay  must  be  made.  Then  my  absence 
from  my  post  will  be  a  long  one;  and,  in  view  of  these  things,  it  would  afford  me  much  satis 
faction  to  see  you  in  person,  or  receive  by  an  express  your  instructions  in  the  premises,  previous 
to  my  setting  out,  which  I  have  fixed  for  the  1st  of  May  at  the  latest. 

In  case  an  express  is  sent,  I  will  thank  you  to  forward  my  letters  and  a  few  newspapers. 

I  am,  very  respectfully  and  truly,  yours, 

JAMES  DOTY. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Washington  Territory. 


INDIAN    TRIBES    OF   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  44T 

42.  REPORT  OF  MR.  j.  M.  STANLEY'S  VISIT  TO  THE  PIEGAN  CAMP,  AT  THE  CYPRESS  MOUNTAIN. 

WASHINGTON  CITY,  January  19,  1854. 

SIR:  In  accordance  with  your  verbal  instructions  to  proceed  to  the  Cypress  mountain  in  search 
of  the  Piegan  band  of  Blackfeet  and  bring  them  into  council  at  Fort  Benton,  I  have  the  honor 
respectfully  to  submit  the  following  report : 

From  the  point  of  your  return  near  the  Marias  river  to  Fort  Benton,  September  11,  1853,  I 
proceeded  with  three  voyageurs  and  an  interpreter  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  under  the 
guidance  of  "  Little  Dog,"  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Piegan  band.  Our  course  was  north  20°  west 
over  an  elevated  plain,  gradually  ascending  to  the  base  of  the  "  Three  Buttes" — a  distance  of 
thirty-five  miles  from  our  encampment  on  the  Marias  river. 

The  "Three  Buttes"  are  of  conical  shape,  rising  about  3,000  feet  above  the  Coteau,  covering 
an  area  of  fifteen  miles  square,  serving  as  a  prominent  landmark  to  the  prairie  voyageur. 

They  are  pretty  well  covered  with  pine  timber,  and  from  their  base  spring  several  small 
streams,  flowing  west  into  the  Marias  and  east  into  Milk  river.  We  found  the  grass  luxuriant, 
and,  in  many  places,  in  all  the  freshness  of  spring.  It  is  the  favorite  fall  pasture  of  the  buffalo, 
elk,  and  other  game,  which  we  saw  in  numerous  herds. 

Continuing  our  course,  September  12th,  we  cross  the  base  of  the  Three  Buttes  on  to  Milk 
river — a  distance  of  thirty  miles.  The  country,  gradually  ascending  to  the  north,  was  much 
broken  with  deep  coulees  running  to  the  eastward  into  Milk  river.  On  the  heads  of  these  coulees 
we  found  clear  running  water ;  but  as  we  advanced,  crossing  them  at  a  greater  distance  from 
the  Buttes,  found  only  occasional  pools.  In  one  of  these  ravines,  twelve  miles  from  the  Buttes,  I 
saw  a  stratum  of  coal,  three  feet  thick,  running  one-fourth  of  a  mile,  with  a  slight  dip  to  the  east. 

Buffalo,  elk,  deer,  and  antelope  are  abundant.  Arrive  at  Milk  river  early  in  the  afternoon. 
Nature  is  here  exhibited  in  a  wonderful  manner,  and  I  paused  to  take  a  glance  at  the  magnificent 
scene  from  the  top  of  a  castelated  butte  running  two  hundred  feet  above  the  river.  A  succession 
of  conical  and  table-hills,  composed  of  different-colored  clays  in  horizontal  strata  jutting  into  the 
valley,  presented  the  appearance  of  an  irregular  street  in  a  quaint  old  city. 

At  this  point  the  valley  is  one  mile  in  breadth,  studded  with  cotton-wood  groves  and  under 
growth.  Here  we  found  three  lodges  of  Piegans  belonging  to  "Lame  Bull's"  band,  and  from 
whom  I  learned  the  Piegans  had  divided  their  camp.  Lame  Bull,  with  one  hundred  lodges,  had, 
seven  days  before  my  arrival,  descended  the  river,  with  the  expectation  of  meeting  you  at  the 
crossing  to  Fort  Benton  ;  and  that  "  Low  Horn,"  with  his  band,  had  gone  north  to  the  Cypress 
mountain. 

After  explaining  the  object  of  my  visit  to  their  country,  I  made  them  presents  of  ammunition 
and  tobacco,  for  which  they  were  very  grateful,  giving  me  fresh  and  dried  meat  in  return.  Be 
lieving  Lame  Bull  would  fall  upon  your  trail  and  proceed  to  Fort  Benton,  I  determined  to  follow 
Low  Horn  to  the  Cypress  mountain,  and  thus  secure  a  council  with  the  two  principal  bands  of 
Piegans. 

September  13. — I  was  detained  until  9  o'clock,  in  consequence  of  the  straying  of  some  of  my 
mules.  They  were  found  and  brought  into  my  camp  by  the  Indians.  Ascending  a  deep  coulde 
to  the  north,  we  find  a  gradual  ascent  to  the  Coteau ;  cross  a  high  divide,  covered  with  hillocks, 
a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  to  a  dry  river  bed;  valley  two  miles  wide,  covered  with  a  thick 
growth  of  wild  sage.  This  valley,  during  the  spring,  evidently  drains  a  large  tract  of  country, 
and  is  also  the  outlet  of  a  lake,  eighteen  miles  long  by  five  broad,  called  Pakokee,  or  Bad  Water. 
Heading  northwest  of  trail,  saw  several  gangs  of  buffalo,  one  of  which  was  killed  by  "  Little 
Dog."  Crossing  a  broken  rocky  ridge,  nine  miles,  we  fell  upon  another  dry  bed  of  river,  which 
we  ascended  five  miles,  it  terminating  in  a  deep  ravine,  with  scattering  cotton-wood,  elm,  wild 
cherry,  and  thorn-apple.  We  halted  near  an  old  Indian  fort,  made  of  logs  and  sticks.  The 


448  INDIAN    TRIBES   OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

water  found  in  pools  was  strongly  impregnated  with  saltpetre,  and  unfit  for  use.  After  spending 
some  time  in  digging  for  fresh  water  for  our  famishing  mules,  we  discovered  a  good  spring  on  the 
east  side  of  the  ravine,  near  the  fort.  During  our  halt  the  voyageurs  killed  several  wild  pigeons. 
Continue  our  march  twelve  miles,  and  encamp  on  a  small  tributary  of  Milk  river.  The  soil 
gravelly  and  sterile,  affording  scanty  pasturage  for  our  animals. 

September  14. The  first  rays  of  the  sun  found  us   in  the  saddle,  prepared  for  a  long  march. 

But  one  day  more  remained  for  me  to  find  the  Piegan  camp.  The  night  had  been  clear  and 
cold,  silvering  the  scanty  herbage  with  a  light  frost ;  and  while  packing  up,  the  men  would 
stop  to  warm  their  fingers  over  a  feeble  fire  of  buffalo-chips  and  skulls.  After  a  short  march 
of  twelve  miles,  we  reached  the  divide  between  Milk  and  Bow  rivers. 

From  this  divide  I  had  a  view  of  the  Bull's  Head,  forming  the  base  of  Cypress  mountain,  bear 
ing  north  65°  west,  around  the  southeastern  base  of  which  I  could  trace  a  large  valley,  making  a 
bend  to  the  northeast,  carrying  its  water  into  Bow  river. 

From  this  point  I  discovered,  with  rriy  glass,  a  band  of  horses,  five  miles  to  the  westward, 
which  directed  me  to  the  Indians  I  was  in  pursuit  of. 

At  1  o'clock  I  descended  to  a  deep  valley,  in  which  flows  an  affluent  of  Beaver  river.  Here 
was  the  Piegan  camp,  of  ninety  lodges,  under  their  chief  Low  Horn,  one  hundred  and  sixty-three 
miles  north,  20°  west,  of  Fort  Benton. 

Little  Dog  conducted  me,  with  my  party,  to  his  lodge,  and  immediately  the  chiefs  and  braves 
collected  in  the  "Council  Lodge,"  to  receive  my  message.  The  arrival  of  a  "  pale  face"  was  an 
unlocked  for  event,  and  hundreds  followed  me  to  the  council,  consisting  of  sixty  of  their  principal 
men. 

The  usual  ceremony  of  smoking  being  concluded,  I  delivered  my  "talk,"  which  was  re 
sponded  to  by  their  chief  saying,  "  the  whole  camp  would  move  at  an  early  hour  the  following 
morning  to  council  with  the  chief  sent  by  their  Great  Father." 

The  day  was  spent  in  feasting  with  the  several  chiefs,  all  seeming  anxious  to  extend  their 
hospitality;  and  while  feasting  with  one  chief,  another  had  his  messenger  at  the  door  of  the  lodge 
to  conduct  me  to  another.  They  live  chiefly  upon  the  buffalo-meat,  preferring  it  to  smaller 
game.  Subsequently,  while  riding  with  an  old  man,  he  pointed  to  the  numerous  herds  of  buffalo 
feeding  in  the  distance,  and  said,  "  I  am  an  old  man,  and  there  you  see  what  I  have  been  living 
upon  all  my  life ;  I  have  never  enjoyed  the  good  things  of  the  whites."  One  of  their  favorite 
dishes  is  composed  of  boiled  buffalo-blood  and  dried  berries,  and  is  served  as  a  dessert  after 
the  more  solid  food.  I  being  a  guest  whom  they  wished  to  honor,  had  this  Indian  delicacy  served 
in  profuse  quantities. 

September  15. — At  an  early  hour  a  town  crier  announced  the  intention  of  the  chief  to  move 
camp.     The  horses  were  immediately  brought  in  and  secured  around  their  respective  lodges,  and 
in  less  than  one  hour  the  whole  encampment  was  drawn  out  in  two  parallel  lines  on  the  plains, 
forming  one  of  the  most  picturesque  scenes  I  have  ever  witnessed. 
Preparation  for  their  transportation  is  made  in  the  following  manner : 

The  poles  of  the  lodges,  which  are  from  twenty  to  thirty-five  feet  in  length,  are  divided,  the 
small  ends  being  lashed  together  and  secured  to  the  shoulders  of  the  horse,  allowing  the  butt- 
ends  to  drag  upon  the  ground  on  either  side ;  just  behind  the  horse  are  secured  two  cross-pieces, 
to  keep  the  poles  in  their  respective  places,  and  upon  which  are  placed  the  lodge  and  domestic 
furniture.  This  also  serves  for  the  safe  transportation  of  the  children  and  infirm  unable  to  ride 
on  horseback — the  lodge  being  folded  so  as  to  allow  two  or  more  to  ride  securely.  The  horses 
dragging  this  burden — often  of  three  hundred  pounds — are  also  ridden  by  the  squaws,  with  a 
child  astride  behind,  and  one  in  her  arms,  embracing  a  favorite  young  pup. 

Their  dogs  (of  which  they  have  a  large  number)  are  also  used  in  transporting  their  effects 

in  the  same  manner  as  the  horses,  making,  with  ease,  twenty  miles  a  day,  dragging  forty  pounds. 

In  this  way  this  heterogeneous  caravan,  comprised  of  a  thousand  souls,  with  twice  that  number 


LETTER   OF   SECRETARY   OF   WAR.  449 

of  horses  and  at  least  three  hundred  dogs,  fell  into  line  and  trotted  quietly  until  night,  while  the 
chiefs  and  braves  rode  in  front,  flank,  or  rear,  ever  ready  for  the  chase  or  defence  against  a  foe. 

The  Blackfeet  proper  are  divided  into  three  distinct  bands,  as  follows :  The  Blood  band, 
400  lodges;  the  Piegan  band,  430  lodges;  and  the  Blackfeet  band,  500  lodges — averaging  ten 
to  a  lodge — amounting  to  13,300  souls. 

The  Piegan  band  are  subdivided  and  governed  by  a  head  chief,  as  follows:  Lame  Bull's  band, 
100  lodges;  Low  Horn's  band,  100;  Little  Rogue's,  30;  North  Wind's,  100;  and  Big  Snake's 
band,  100. 

The  Piegan  and  Blood  bands  hunt,  trade,  and  winter  on  American  soil,  while  the  Blackfeet 
extend  their  hunts  as  far  north  as  the  Saskatchawan  river,  and  trade  as  frequently  with  the  British 
as  with  the  American  posts. 

Like  other  tribes  in  this  region,  the  Piegaris  retain  all  their  primitive  customs,  adhering  with 
faithful  pertinacity  to  the  ceremonies  of  their  forefathers.  They  are  well  clad  in  dressed  skins, 
decorated  with  the  scalps  of  their  enemies.  They  are  well-formed,  little  above  the  medium 
stature,  brave,  intelligent,  and  adventurous,  roaming  vast  distances  over  mountains  and  plains, 
carrying  war  into  their  enemy's  country.  During  my  sojourn  among  them  I  was  treated  with 
the  greatest  kindness  and  hospitality,  my  property  guarded  with  vigilance,  so  that  I  did  not  lose 
the  most  trifling  article. 

Retracing  my  trail,  I  reached  Milk  river  the  second  day  from  their  encampment  on  Bow  river. 
Our  mules  and  horses  being  much  jaded,  and  having  had  but  little  grass  for  five  days,  the  chief 
recommended  we  should  halt  for  a  day  to  recruit  them.  Here  the  main  encampment  remained  to 
hunt;  thirty  of  the  chiefs  with  their  families  accompanying  me  to  Fort  Benton,  where  I  arrived 
on  the  20th  of  September,  having  been  absent  eleven  days,  during  which  time  I  made  a  number 
of  sketches  illustrative  of  their  habits;  also  a  partial  vocabulary,  which  is  herewith  submitted. 
I  have  the  honor  to  be,  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  M.  STANLEY, 

Artist  of  the  Exploration. 

I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory, 

in  Charge  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey. 


The  following  papers,  not  enumerated  in  Chapter  XVIII,  have  been  received  since  the  date  of  Governor 

Stevens' 's  report. 

LETTER  OF  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR  TO  GOVERNOR  I.  I.  STEVENS. 

WAR  DEPARTMENT, 

Washington,  July  25,  1854. 

SIR  :  You  will,  with  as  little  delay  as  possible,  furnish  this  department  with  a  report  of  your 
operations,  embracing — 

1st.  A  map  exhibiting  the  actual  line  or  lines  surveyed  by  yourself,  and  your  assistants,  in  your 
late  exploration  to  ascertain  the  most  practicable  route  for  a  railway  to  the  Pacific  ;  and  also  a 
table,  showing  the  astronomical  points  determined  for  checking  the  lineal  surveys,  and  the  data 
upon  which  these  determinations  are  founded. 

2d.  A  profile  of  the  route  traversed,  making  each  station  where  a  height  was  ascertained,  and 
a  table  of  the  results  of  the  observations  made,  with  the  barometer  or  other  instrument,  by  which 
the  relative  heights  of  different  points  were  determined. 

3d.  A  condensed  statement  of  the  character  of  the  soil,  the  timber,  the  supply  of  water,  and, 
as  far  as  ascertained,  the  depth  of  snow  in  winter  for  every  section  of  the  line  traversed. 
57f 


450  PARTIAL    RESULTS    OF    EXPLORATION. 

For  the  immediate  use  of  the  government,  the  relative  longitude  and  the  relative  height  of  points 
along  any  given  line  is  required.  A  discussion  of  the  absolute  longitudes  and  heights,  also  the 
preparation  of  the  natural  history,  geology,  &c.,  may  be  deferred  without  injury  to  the  object  now 
in  view. 

The  map  and  profile  should  indicate  new  routes  or  lines  to  be  surveyed,  and  those  heretofore 
surveyed,  by  which  obstacles  on  the  line  followed  may  be  avoided. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

JEFF.  DAVIS,   Secretary  of  War. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS. 


LETTER  OF  GOVERNOR  STEVENS  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 

WASHINGTON,  August  4,  1854. 

SIR  :  In  answer  to  your  letter  of  July  25,  I  beg  leave  to  report  as  follows : 

1.  My  general  map,  forwarded  to  the  department  shortly  after  rendering  in  my  report,  exhibits 
the  several  lines  that  come  into  competition  for  railroad  routes,  and  the  detailed  map,  scale 
T, z?j(},ci50,  giyes  tne  several  lines  surveyed  by  myself  and  my  assistants  in  the  recent  exploration 
made  by  me.  I  herewith  enclose  a  table  of  latitudes,  which  can  be  relied  on  as  furnishing  good 
results.  The  observations  on  north  and  south  stars  give  results  closely  approximating. 

Our  longitude  observations  are  not  good.  Very  many  were  made,  but  we  failed  in  the  use  of 
the  transit,  which  was  relied  on  to  check  the  work,  and  to  rate  the  chronometers.  Up  to  a  late 
period  I  was  sanguine  that  we  should  master  all  the  difficulties,  and  get  good  observations.  I 
have  been  disappointed.  In  the  journey  from  Washington  city,  where  the  chronometers  were 
rated,  to  St.  Paul,  they  got  out  of  order,  and  the  rates  were  not  afterwards  ascertained  with  pre 
cision.  1  am  of  opinion  that,  with  the  re-occupation  of  a  few  fixed  points,  as  Wallah-Wallah, 
Fort  Owen,  Fort  Benton,  and  Fort  Union,  all  the  observations  will  be  made  available. 

I  am  of  opinion,  however,  that  with  the  latitude  observations,  and  the  admirable  odometer 
survey,  and  the  use  of  Nicollet's  longitudes,  and  those  of  Captain  Wilkes,  and  those  (3)  ascer 
tained  by  Captain  McClellan,  the  map  can  be  relied  on,  and  all  inaccuracies  in  longitude  will 
scarcely  be  appreciable. 

It  is  due  to  the  exploration  and  myself  to  state,  that  I  relied  upon  Captain  Joseph  Roberts,  who, 
on  his  application,  was,  at  my  request,  detailed  for  duty  with  the  survey,  to  take  charge  of  the 
observations  for  latitude  and  longitude.  He  had  a  large  practical  experience  in  observations,  and 
it  was  designed  to  place  him  in  special  charge  of  the  transits,  with  which  he  was  perfectly  familiar. 
At  the  last  moment  he  got  orders  relieving  him  from  the  exploration,  and  I  was  then  obliged  to 
depend  upon  one  of  the  assistants,  Mr.  George  A.  Stevens,  who,  though  a  good  observer  and 
computer,  had  not  the  requisite  experience  in  observations  on  the  march  for  the  purpose.  It  was 
impossible  for  me  personally  to  make  observations,  in  consequence  of  my  wretched  health  the 
greater  portion  of  the  trip.  For  six  hundred  miles,  in  consequence  of  an  old  disability,  the  result 
of  my  service  in  Mexico,  I  was  obliged  to  ride  in  an  ambulance  ;  and  though  I  took  my  horse 
two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  before  I  reached  the  mountains,  1  suffered  severely  from  debility  and 
fatigue  the  whole  route  through. 

At  Fort  Union  the  observations  were  placed  in  charge  of  Lieutenant  Donelson,  with  instruc 
tions,  if  practicable,  to  get  longitudes  by  lunar  distances;  but  Lieutenant  Donelson  was  not  able 
to  report  any  results  except  for  latitude. 

Lieutenant  Saxton  was  also  provided  with  instruments  for  observations  for  latitude  and  longi 
tude,  but  furnished  no  results  except  lor  latitude. 

I  will  remark  that  Mr.  Stevens,  who  is  now  in  the  Territory  in  the  capacity  of  my  private  sec 
retary,  has  been  industriously  engaged  since  April  in  making  observations,  and  in  familiarizing 
himself  in  the  use  of  instruments,  and  I  now  consider  him  well  qualified  to  make  observations  in 
the  field.  All  the  observations  for  latitude  and  longitude  are  in  Olympia. 


PARTIAL    RESULTS   OP   EXPLORATION.  451 

2.  I  herewith  send  the  profile  of  the  railroad  route  via  the  Bitter  Root  river  and  the  pass  of 
the  lower  Columbia.     The  other  profiles  are  nearly  ready  to  be  transmitted.     I  also  transmit  the 
barometrical  heights  on  the  trail  of  the  main  train.     The  barometrical  observations  have  been  all 
lost  on  the  isthmus  by  Lieutenant  Done! son. 

3.  The  soil  is  excellent  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Bois  de  Sioux,  in  the  Mouse  River 
valley,  and  in  the  valleys  of  the  several  streams  flowing  into  the  Missouri.     Much  of  the  land  is 
good  on  Milk  river,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  itself.     It  is  excellent  in  the  valleys  of  the 
Marias,  Teton,  Medicine,  Dearborn,  and  the  several  tributaries  at  the  forks  of  the  Missouri.     It 
is  also  excellent  on  the  Missouri  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Benton,   on  the  Highwood  creek,  on 
the  Judith  river,  on  the   Muscle   Shell,  and  on  Smith's   river.     The  valleys  of  the  Hell   Gate, 
Blackfoot,  St.  Mary's,  Jocko,  and  the  several  tributaries  flowing  into  the  Flathead  lake,  furnish 
excellent  soil.     The   soil  is  good   on  the   several  prairies  on  Clark's  fork,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Cceur  d'Alene  lake,  the  several  tributaries  flowing  into  that  lake,  and  good  for  the  most  part  on 
the  banks  of  the  Spokane,  and  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Creur  d'Alene  mountains;  and  it  is 
good  also  much  of  the  distance  on  the  railroad  route  over  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  and 
on  the  Wallah-Wallah  river  and  its  tributaries.     In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Fort  Wallah-Wal 
lah  the  soil  is  poor.     Below  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  on  both  banks  of  the  Columbia,  the  soil  for  the 
most  part  is  good,  and  the  grazing  excellent.     Below  the  Cascades  the  soil  is  rich,  and  is  so  for 
the  most  part  to  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz,  and  thence  to  Puget  sound.     On  the  southern  shore  of 
Puget  sound  a  portion  of  the  prairies  is  gravelly,  although  the  great  portion  furnishes  fair  arable  land. 

In  the  Yakima  valley  there  is  some  good  land,  and  by  irrigation  a  considerable  quantity  of  land 
could  be  made  available  for  crops.  Crossing  the  mountains  by  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  the  soil  im 
proves,  and  for  some  forty  miles  before  reaching  the  Sound  the  quality  is  excellent.  This  is 
especially  the  case  back  of  Seattle. 

The  grazing  is  good  on  the  whole  route,  and  between  the  Bois  de  Sioux  and  the  Mouse  River 
valley,  and  between  this  valley  and  the  Big  Muddy  river.  Between  the  several  river  valleys 
from  the  Big  Muddy  to  the  Medicine  river  there  are  many  small  streams,  and  valleys  furnishing 
excellent  farming  locations. 

The  timber  is  abundant  as  far  as  the  Bois  de  Sioux,  and  on  the  route  thence  to  the  Grand 
Couteau  heading  the  Mouse  River  valley  the  road  can  be  supplied  from  the  Shayenne,  the  Mini- 
wakan  lake,  the  coulees  and  main  valley  of  Mouse  river,  and  various  lakes  not  far  from  the  line 
of  the  route.  From  the  Grand  Couteau  to  the  Big  Muddy  river  there  is  little  or  no  timber,  and 
the  supply  must  be  furnished  from  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone.  The  same  from  the  Big 
Muddy  to  Milk  river.  From  the  mouth  of  Milk  river  to  the  mountains  temporary  arrangements 
can  be  made  with  the  cotton-wood,  to  be  replaced,  on  a  through  communication  being  estab 
lished,  by  the  excellent  pines  of  the  Bear's  Paw,  the  Three  Buttes,  and  the  Rocky  mountains, 
though  it  will  be  practicable,  from  the  Missouri,  to  extend  the  track  along  Milk  river  by  the  red 
cedar  and  the  pines  of  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone,  and  by  the  use  of  a  branch  road  to  open  a 
new  section  where  the  route  passes  between  the  Bear's  Paw  and  the  Three  Bultes.  The  supply 
from  the  mountains  to  beyond  the  crossing  of  the  Spokane  is  inexhaustible;  thence  for  some  one 
hundred  miles,  to  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia,  there  is  a  scarcity  of  timber;  but  inexhaustible 
supplies  can  be  floated  down  the  Columbia.  From  the  crossing  of  the  Columbia,  down  its  valley 
to  the  Cowlitz,  and  thence  to  the  Sound,  the  supply  is  inexhaustible,  though  from  the  crossing  to 
the  Dalles  the  reliance  must  be  on  the  woods  of  the  Columbia,  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wenat- 
shapam.  By  the  route  of  the  Yakima  and  the  Snoqualme  Pass  there  will  be  ample  supplies  of 
timber.  Not  much  is  found  the  first  ninety-four  miles ;  but  the  route  being  in  the  valley  of  the 
Yakima,  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  rafting  down  to  points  where  timber  is  wanted,  from  its 
headwaters. 

In  the  timbered  region  are  found  pine,  larch,  spruce,  cedar,  and  fir.  East  of  the  Bois  de  Sioux 
the  growth  is  principally  oak,  elm,  ash,  &c. 


452  PARTIAL    RESULTS   OF    EXPLORATION. 

There  will  be  no  difficulty  as  to  water.  It  will  be  deficient  at  points  on  the  broad  plateau  be 
tween  the  Milk  and  Missouri  rivers,  but  by  aqueducts  it  can  easily  be  supplied.  The  lakes  on 
the  Grand  Couteau  will  also  furnish  the  means  of  supplying  any  deficiency  from  the  Grand 
Couteau  to  a  point  south  of  the  Miniwakan  lake.  But  our  observations  go  to  show  that  there 
need  be  little  apprehension  of  a  deficiency  here.  On  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia.  I  appre 
hend  no  deficiency  in  the  supply  of  water;  the  whole  country  abounds  in  lakes  and  small 
streams. 

Our  observations  and  inquiries  go  to  show  that  the  average  depth  of  snow  east  of  the  mount 
ains  to  the  Missouri  does  not  exceed  one  foot.  Two  feet  is  an  extraordinary  depth,  and  the  most 
experienced  voyageurs  in  that  country  have  never  been  detained  a  single  day  in  travelling  by 
snow.  The  most  they  have  been  compelled  to  do  was  to  lie  by  till  the  storm  was  over. 

In  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  on  the  line  of  Clark's  fork,  the  snow  is  hardly  ever  deep  enough 
to  prevent  the  Indians  travelling  with  their  families  on  horseback  all  through  the  winter :  one 
foot  is  a  common  depth,  and  three  feet  is  a  very  extraordinary  depth,  in  the  Rocky  mountains. 
Last  winter  the  average  on  the  several  passes  was  less  than  one  foot.  The  winter  before — the 
winter  of  greatest  snow  for  many  years,  as  shown  by  the  unprecedented  rise  of  the  rivers  in  the 
following  spring — the  depth  was  three  feet. 

On  the  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  in  the  lower  Columbia  valley,  and  on  the  route  thence  to  the 
Sound,  the  snow  is  inconsiderable. 

On  the  route  of  the  Yakima  and  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  there  is  but  little  snow  for  some  forty 
miles  eastward  from  the  Sound,  and  for  more  than  a  hundred  miles  up  the  Yakima  valley.  On 
the  pass  itself,  there  was,  the  last  winter,  on  the  20th  January,  six  feet  of  light  snow  for  some 
six  miles.  The  depth,  I  am  of  opinion,  did  not  much  increase  subsequently  ;  but  to  test  the  ques 
tion  fully,  further  observations  ought  to  be  made. 

For  more  full  information  in  reference  to  the  forest  growths,  supply  of  sleepers,  and  building- 
materials  for  the  road,  and  for  the  supply  of  water,  I  will  respectfully  refer  you  to  Chapters  V 
and  XII  of  my  report.  Chapter  V  treats  of  the  section  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  Chap 
ter  XII  of  the  section  west.  For  the  depth  of  snow,  I  will  refer  you  to  Chapter  XIV,  and  to  sub- 
reports  I  35,  I  36,  I  37,  and  I  38. 

The  observations  for  heights  having  been  lost,  the  discussion  of  the  several  altitudes  cannot  be 
made  till  they  are  recovered ;  and  for  longitudes,  the  only  dependence  at  this  time,  and  before 
further  observations  are  made,  will  be  to  adjust  the  odometer  line  in  connexion  with  the  latitudes 
between  Nicollet's  Lake  Jessie  and  Wilkes's  Wallah- Wallah  on  a  projection,  and  ascertain  a  par 
ticular  longitude  by  protraction ;  I  am  confident  the  result  will  be  good. 

The  general  map  indicates  lines  to  be  examined,  and  for  full  information  I  will  respectfully 
refer  you  to  Chapter  XVIII  of  my  report.  I  will,  however,  give  the  following  condensed  state 
ment  of  examinations  which  I  will  recommend  to  be  made : 

1.  More  detailed  examinations  of  the  line  of  the  lower  Columbia  and  of  the  line  of  the  Sno 
qualme  Pass,  to  determine  which  is  most  practicable. 

2.  Careful  examinations  of  Lewis  and  Clark's,  Cadotte's,  and  the  Northern  Little  Blackfoot 
Passes,  and  their  several  approaches,  to  determine  as  to  which  is  most  practicable.     If  Lewis 
and  Clark's  or  Cadotte's  Pass  be  preferred  to  the  Northern  Little  Blackfoot,  examinations  to  be 
made  to  determine  the  practicability  of  passing  directly  from  the  Blackfoot  trail  to  Clark's  furk. 
This  proving  impracticable,  or  the  Northern  Little  Blackfoot  Pass  proving  preferable,  then  a 
careful  comparative  survey  to  be  made  of  the  line  of  the  Bitter  Root  and  the  line  of  the  Jocko. 

More  careful  observations  of  the  southern  portion  of  Clark's  fork  to  be  made,  to  determine 
whether  the  road  shall  pass  to  the  Spokane  from  the  western  or  the  eastern  side  of  the  Pend 
d'Oreille  lake. 

Examinations  to  be  made  to  determine  the  practicability  of  connecting  the  Rocky  mountain 
passes  with  Council  Blulis  through  the  Black  Hills,  and  also  to  determine  whether  these  pusses 


PARTIAL    RESULTS   OF   EXPLORATION. 


453 


can  be  reached  from  the  Bois  de  Sioux  by  crossing  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone,  and  thus 
abridging  distance. 

Winter  examinations  to  be  continued. 

I  will  here  observe  that,  through  the  Indian  agents  and  sub-agents,  I  shall  be  able  to  get  a  large 
body  of  meteorological  observations  with  but  little  additional  expense,  except  the  cost  of  instru 
ments.  I  will  recommend  that,  whatever  operations  the  department  mny  think  advisable  to  be 
carried  on,  on  this  route,  the  operations  of  the  fall  and  winter  be  restricted  to  the  examination  of 
the  lower  Columbia  and  the  line  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  and  that  next  spring  and  summer  the 
operations  eastward  be  vigorously  pushed. 

I  will  state  that,  in  connexion  with  the  Blackfoot  council,  I  shall  make  my  arrangements  to 
leave  the  Sound  in  April,  to  reach  Fort  Benton  late  in  June,  and,  remaining  there  six  weeks,  to 
return  and  reach  the  Sound  again  in  October.  I  refer  to  this  to  show  with  what  ease  I  shall  be 
able  to  direct  the  operations  in  the  field. 

My  feeble  health,  the  last  seventeen  days,  will  explain  the  delay  which  has  occurred  in  trans 
mitting  this  report.  It  has  only  been  within  a  day  or  two  that  I  have  been  able  to  do  much 
work. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 

Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington,  D.  C. 

N.  B. — Besides  the  railroad  profile  referred  to  in  this  report,  I  send  the  profiles  of  the  route  of 
the  main  train.  The  railroad  line  was  got  in  through  the  labors  of  the  civil  engineers,  Messrs. 
Lander  and  Tinkham,  who  were  constantly  occupied  in  side  reconnaissances,  and  is  the  result  of 
the  observations  on  the  main  trail;  of  careful  observations,  by  the  barometer,  of  prominent  land 
marks  off  the  main  trail ;  and  of  careful  observations  of  the  course  of  streams,  and  the  general 
trend  of  the  country. 

I  send  also  the  two  sheets  giving  the  work  in  detail.  But  I  am  now  engaged  in  a  careful  re 
adjustment  of  the  latitudes  and  odometer  survey  to  the  longitudes  determined  by  Wilkes  and 
ISicollet,  which  will  occupy  me  some  two  or  three  days,  and  which  will  be  made  the  basis  of  a 
special  report. 

LIST  OF  LATITUDES. 


Date. 

Place. 

Star  observed. 

Deduced  lati 
tude. 

Mean. 

Cainp  Davis  ...  ......  ......  ....  ......  ...... 

Theta  

o     i    // 
45  35  12 

o     /      // 

Polaris  ......  ...... 

17 

45  35  14.5 

JUDG  16  and  17      .... 

Ford  of  Sauk  river    ....     ......  ............ 

Altair..         .     .  . 

45  27  00 

Polaris  .  ...... 

27  00 

Theta  

27  07 

45  27  02 

Camp  Marcy,  Pike  lake.  .......    ...     ........ 

Polaris  ....  ...... 

45  44  26 

Lake  —  —           .                . 

Polaris  . 

45  57  08 

Wild  Rice  river.  ............  .         ...... 

Theta  

45  57  07 

45  57  07.  5 

Camp  McClelland,  Shayenne  river  ....  ....  . 

Polaris  ......  ...... 

46  35  58 

July8  

Second  Shayenne  Crossing.  .  ..........  

Polaris  .......  ...... 

36  03 
47  27  36 

46  36  00.  5 

July  10  .  . 

33 

47  27  34,  5 

454 


PARTIAL    RESULTS   OF   EXPLORATION. 
LIST  OF  LATITUDES— Continued. 


Date. 

Place. 

Star  observed. 

Deduced  lati 
tude. 

Mean. 

July  11 

Polaris  

o      '     // 
47  34  10 
17 

47  41  40 
41 

47  51  01 
50  23 

47  47  21 

27 

47  58  00 

57  56 

48  01  58 

48  02  35 
02  35 

O        '          " 

47  34  13.5 

47  41  40.5 

47  47  24 

47  58  03.  5 

48  02  20.  5 
48  05  44.  5 

48  29  47.  5 

48  06  48 
48  09  10.  5 

48  31  24 
48  27  41.5 
48  22  16.  5 
48  22  21.5 

Tnlv  11 

Branch  of  Jacques 
Camp  with  Red  Riv 

Polaris  

Tnlv  Ifi 

Julv  17 

Polaris  

Tnlv  10 

Polaris  .......  ..  . 

Ju]y  20            

Altair  

Polaris  .......  ...... 

Ju]y  21                

Polaris 

July  22  

Altair  ........  ...... 

48  0-2  35 
48  02  16 

48  05  42 

Polaris... 

July  24  

Altair  .  .......  ...... 

46 
48  05  44 
48  05  45 

48  12  27 

Polaris  .......  ...... 

July  30  

Polaris  .........  .... 

34 
48  12  30.  5 

48  29  56 
29  39 

48  00  22 
47  59  36 

August  4  .  ...... 

First  camp,  Fort  Ui 

Second  camp,  Fort 
Little  Muddy  river 

TCior  \fiir1di7  rivpr 

lion     

Altair     ...... 

Polaris 

Altair  .  ............ 

95  59  58 
47  59  59 

47  59  10 

48  06  42 
06  54 

48  09  17 
04 
48  09  04 

48  07  54 
48  07  15 

48  31   13 
36 

48  27  44 
39 

48  22  14 
19 

48  22  24 
09 

48  26  00 

Altair  ...........  

August  12  ..........  .................. 

AlfMir  

Altair     .  

Altair 

First  camp,  Milk  r 
Fourth  camp,  Milk 

ver.        ....  ......  ....  .... 

Altair 

August  23  .. 

Polaris 

Polaris  ..  

August  25........  

Altair  

Polaris  . 

August  26  

Altair  

Polaris 

August  27  

Altair  

Altair  ......... 

PARTIAL    RESULTS   OF   EXPLORATION. 
LIST  OF  LATITUDES— Continued. 


455 


Date. 

Place. 

Star  observed. 

Deduced  lati-  i         Mean, 
tude. 

.  !  Polaris.  .. 

Q        1         II 

48  33  49 
48  33  42 

48  35  56 
26 

48  30  11 
15 

48  34  16 

47  49  31 
34 

O        /       /' 

48  33  45.  5 
48  35  41 
48  30  13 

47  49  35 
47  49  34 

47  22  09.  5 
47  11  27.5 

46  31  01 
47  28  54.5 

48  14  33.  5 

47  25  33.  5 
47  11  29.5 
46  53  42.  5 

August  30        -  ..... 

Altair  ........  ...... 

Polaris  

September  2        ..... 

First  camp  from  Milk 

Polaris 

Altair..  ....  .  

Altair  

September  9.....  .... 

Polaris  .....  ....  .... 

September  19.  ...  .... 

Altair.  ......... 

32.5 
47  49  43 

2S 

Second  camp,  Sun  riv< 
Crown  Butte  creek  .  . 

47  31  19 

47  22  08 
11 

47  11  19 
36 

47  02  48 
46  56  51 
46  46  45 

46  31  00 
46  31  00 

September  21....  .... 

Altair  ...........  

First  camp  on  Blackfc. 
Second  camp  on  Blacl 

September23  

Altair 

September  23  .  .... 

St   Mary's  village 

Altair 

September  30  

Altair 

46  31  00 
46  31  02 

47  08  43 

47  19  40 

47  29  07 
28  42 

47  55  43 
48  11  07 
48  17  23 

48  14  27 
40 

47  44  01 

47  25  31 

36 

47  11  28 
31 

46  53  47 
38 

46  04  01 

October  8  

October  9  

October  16  

Altair       . 

October  20  

Pend  d'Oreille  lake 

Theta 

October  21 

Mouth  of  Pack  river 

October  22  

Polaris        . 

October  29     

Camp  Washington    .  . 

a  Pegasi  .....  ...... 

Theta 

October  31  

a  Pegasi    .......... 

Polaris         ..         ... 

a,  Pegasi  .......  .... 

Polaris  ......  ...... 

Polaris           . 

Wallah-Wallah  river 

a  Pegasi  ........... 

Tlif^a 

456 


PARTIAL   RESULTS  OF   EXPLORATION. 
LATITUDES  AND  LONGITUDES. 


Place. 


Columbia  Barracks 45  36  34  122  39  34.6 

Mankas 45  47  57 

Yuki.let 45  54  20 

Cha-la-cha 45  56  41 

Spilyeh 46  01  28 

Noompt-na-mie 46  05  38 

Ke-inine-pal 46  05  15 

Wa  ha  mis  - -• — 46  01  32 

Cheqaow'.!.-. 45  56  00  121  23  11 

Hool-hoolse 45  58  48 

First  Tahk 45  55  31 

Second  Tahk 45  59  32 

Kaui-ina-Lietas 46  07  54 

Clunas 46  15  42 

Sim-Kwe 46  24  17 

Atahnain 46  29  42 

We-nass 46  44  43 

Ket  ta< 47  00  59 

Skil-kantin 47  22  19 

We-nat-shapam 47  28  38  120  37  07 

Columbia 47  49  40 

Between  Methow  and  Okinakane 48  04  09 

On  Okiuakane,  near  Fort 48  05  29 

Camp  in  the  woods . — - 48  13  52 

On  Okinakane  river,  first  camp  above  Fort — 48  32  04 

Do second do 48  49  04 

Do third do 48  59  35 

FortColville 46  36  16  118    4  00 

Fort  Wallah-Wallah 46  03  46 

Wilkes's  Wallah-Wallah  longitude,  118°  47'  45". 
Heights  bij  the  barometer  on  the  line  of  the  mam  train  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  Wallah- Wallah. 


Latitude. 


Longitude. 


Date. 


dumber  of 
camp. 


Place. 


Height  in 

feet  above 

the  sea. 


June 


July 


15 

16 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23  to  25. 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

1 

2  to  4.. 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8  to  10. 

10 

10 

11 

12 

13... 


1 

2 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 


Camp  Pierce,  near  Fort  Snelling. 

Camp  Davis,  on  Sauk  river 

Prairie 

Second  Crossing  of  Sauk  river... 

Lake  Davis 

Lake  Henry 

Lightning  lake 

Prairie — . 

Prairie 

Pike  lake 

Elk 

Prairie 

Poplar  lake 

Bois  de  Sioux — 

Wild  Rice  river 

Prairie — .  — 

Prairie 

Shayenne  river . 

Maple  river 

Maple  river 

Prairie  lakes , 

Prairie  lakes 

Shayenne  river.. 

Of  advance  party 

Lake  Jessie — 

Prairie  lake 

Prairie  lake ... 

James  river , 


828 
994 
207 
037 
454 
284 
477 
753 
557 
134 
298 
417 
562 
039 
815 
841 
266 
025 
817 
922 
367 
262 
141 
150 
260 
497 
665 
681 


PARTIAL    RESULTS  OF    EXPLORATION. 

Heights  1)]]  the  Barometer — Continued. 


457 


Date. 

Number  of 
camp. 

Place. 

Height  in 
feet  above 
the  sea. 

July 

14  

28 

Prairie                                                          .   ....          ....  ..  .......... 

1,320 

15  to  17  

29 

1,530 

17  

30 

8ha  venne  river                  .                   .--          .       

1,408 

18  

31 

1,463 

19  

32 

Prairie  lake                               --            ......        .....        ...        ............ 

1,405 

20  

33 

Elevation  above  camp  110  feet;  distant  15.7  miles. 
Prairie  lake                        .          ..                             ........................ 

1,456 

21  

34 

Elevation  above  camp  120  feet;  distant  4  miles. 
Depression  below  camp  34  feet;  distant  6  miles. 
Prairie  lake                    ......... 

1,536 

22  

35 

Prairie  lake  ......    .......  ...................    ................... 

1,762 

24  

36 

Elevation  above  camp  380  feet;  distant  13  miles. 
Prairie  . 

1,  950 

25  

37 

Elevation  above  camp  93  feet  ;  distant  5.  2  miles. 
Elevation  above  camp  122  feet  ;  distant  17.  5  miles. 
Prairie  .            .,.      ..                                                 

1,973 

26  

33 

Elevation  above  camp  130  feet  ;  distant  7.  7  miles. 
Prairie  1'tke    

2,  283 

27  

39 

Sumuiit  above  camp  218  feet;  distant  8  miles. 
Prairie  lake    .  ..         ..   

2,397 

23  

40 

Depression  below  camp  193  feet;  distant  4  miles. 
Depression  below  camp  22!t  feet;  distant  7.  4  miles. 
Depression  below  camp  89  feet;  distant  15.8  miles. 
Prairie  litke     .....      ...            ..  ...              .      ..          .......... 

2,021 

29  

41 

Elevation  above  camp  86  feet;  distant  18.2  miles. 
Depression  below  camp  72  feet  ;  distant  20.  5  miles. 
Prairie  l»ke  ,  ..  

1,973 

30  

42 

Elevation  above  camp  83  feet;  distant  3.7  miles. 
Depression  below  camp  12")  feet;  distant  17.2  miles. 
Elevation  above  camp  73  feet;  distant  20.  3  miles. 
Prairie  lake                               -.                    .                  ...            .            .. 

2,  074 

31  

43 

Elevation  above  camp  331  feet;  distant  7.  5  miles. 
Elevation  above  camp  134  feet;  distant  10.  5  miles. 
Elevation  above  camp  353  feet;  distant  12.2  miles. 
Prairie             .       .    ...........      ....        ...    ..................... 

2,403 

Aug. 

1  to  9  

44 

Elevation  above  camp  98  feet  ;  distant  4.  3  miles. 
Fort  Union                ....   ..   .     .    ..................................... 

2,019 

Bluff  above,  distant  5.  7  miles  

2,  596 

9  

45 

2,  030 

10  

46 

I,*-  39 

Bluff,  distant  43  miles  .  

2,  181 

11  to  14  

47 

Great  Muddy  river            .            ..   .   .......................... 

1  ,  929 

Bluff  distant  2.  1  miles  

2,  332 

14  

48 

Missouri  River  valley           .                      ..     ..        ...................    ... 

2,  070 

15  

49 

Porcupine  river  ......  ......  ....  ......  ......  ....  ......  ....  ......  . 

1  ,  960 

16  

50 

Missouri  river          ..          -.      ....           .      ............................ 

2,  084 

17  

51 

2,  090 

18  to  20. 

52 

2,  205 

20  

53 

Milk  river           .        ....         .      ....    ....  

2,  276 

21  

54 

2,  ill 

22         

55 

2,  120 

23  

56 

Milk  river.  .....      .    ..  ...........................  ............ 

2,  1  12 

24  

57 

Pi  airie  pond             ..   .              

2,  223 

25  

58 

Milk  river                                .       -.      -.                               .         

2,  200 

26  

59 

Milk  river                                    ..        ..                                               ...  

2,211 

Bluff  distant  7.  6  miles  ....      ...................................... 

2.  675 

27  

60 

Milk  river                         .       ....   ..................................... 

2,  225 

Bluff  distant  4  8  miles          ...   ...........     ......       ........ 

2  525 

28  

61 

2  231 

29  

62 

2  250 

30  

63 

Milk  river                                      .        .          .......................... 

2  271 

31  to  Sept.  2  

64 

Milk  river                                                  .              ..... 

2  301 

Sept. 

2  

65 

2  773 

2  

66 

Branch  of  Milk  river            .              ...  ..............  ............. 

2  H40 

Summit  between  Missouri  and  Milk  river,  distant  17.  6  miles  

3  026 

4  

67 

Prairie  .  

9   611 

5  

68 

Ma  rias  river                 ....              .         ................... 

2  221 

Height  of  prairie  passed  over  to-day,  4.  9  miles  .  ...   

2  491 

6  

69 

Tanzy  river  ............               ........  .... 

2  332 

Height  of  prairie  between  camp  and  Fort  Benton,  2  miles  ........ 

2,535 

58/ 

458 


PARTIAL    RESULTS   OF   EXPLORATION. 

Heights  by  the  Barometer — Continued. 


Date.                  Numb 
can 

er  of                                                            Place, 
ip. 

[ 
Height  in 
feet  above 
the  sea. 

Rpnf       7 

2,  3-29 
2,  350 
3,  1(15 
3,  836 
3,  558 
3,  702 
3,115 
3,169 
3,  C69 
4,  235 
3,  955 
4,  (191 
4,871 
6,  044 
5,  448 
4,  957 
4,470 
4,  350 
3,  280 
3,  361 
3,  836 
3,5(»4 
3,975 
3,  *99 
3,  298 
3,  592 
3,  256 
3,  502 
3,  Ofi5 
2,868 
3,  096 
3,284 
2,777 
2,  868 
2,840 
3,  (181 
3,810 
3,  920 
2,  966 
2,718 
2,  424 
2,367 
2,775 
2,671 
3,149 
3,313 
3,  036 
2,  HiO 
2,  77-2 
2,  637 
2,131 
2,  140 
3,069 
2,048 
2,787 
2,  002 
2,670 
1,980 
2,886 
2.6H4 
1,637 
1,579 
1,701 
1,630 
2,  572 
2,  182 
2,  179 
1,304 
1,198 

1  1  1  o  1  6                             7 

lg                                           7-)             T.jfnn  or  Taii7v  river  

Summit  towards  flip  Prnirie  lake.  20.  9  miles     " 

17                            '        73           Prairie  lake  .         ..     .. 

Summit  towards  Sun  river,  5.  5  miles  

jg                     :        75           Sun  river  -  

20                                                    76                Pi-nn-n  Untf-p  f»rp.>lr                   _             _  .             _           

]Ii"h  rid're  5.  6  miles  .......  ....  ......  ......  ......  .  ......  ...... 

Tlwnrl-iiini  rivpr  r>rossin<r    17    3  milps 

22                                   7s. 

Eastward  base  of  rid^e  or  pass  7  1  miles 

Summit  of  pass  8.  5  miles  ......      ..... 

"Western  base  of  pass,  8.  9  miles  .......  ..  .  .  ......  ..  .  .... 

23     79           Blackfoot  river    

24          80            <    "Rlnflrfi.nt-  .  rivpr 

26     81 

27      i        8S 

Distance  from  camp  6.  8  miles  .......  ......  ......  ....  ......  ....  .... 

Distance  from  camp  7.  7  miles    ...................   

Distance  from  camp  8.  3  miles  .......  ......  ....  ......  ......  ....  .... 

Distance  from  camp  9  8  miles         ................................. 

Distance  from  camp  1  1  miles  .............  ............  ....... 

Distance  from  camp    Ifi  miles  .......   .     .......    ......          ... 

Distance  from  camp,  17  miles  ...............................    ...... 

Elevation  3  2  miles          ......            .          .......................... 

V.lpvation    9.  3  milps 

28            83            '•    S^    IVfarv's   rivpr                                                                          --             -.          ----- 

Prrifisinor  St,    TVTnrv's  rivp.r.  IS.  3   milps. 

29         ....                  84           St  Mary's  village                                                     .                         .... 

Oct        2  .............          85        i  St  Mary's  river      ....                  .....         ............      ...........  

3  to  5.....  86           St  Mary's  river.  ....  .  .  

5.......    ......              87            i    T?itrpr  Hunt  VIVP.I* 

Elevation    5.  6  miles       .......  ......  ......  ...    ....  .  ....  ....  .... 

Elevation,  9.  4  miles  ......  ..  .  ......  ...  ......  ......  ......  .... 

P".lpv»tiim  nVinrp.  thp  r>miin.  87.  13.  8  rnilps 

7  89              .Tnr-kn  vivpr             _                 .                                _         .         --       

Flarhead  Rivpr  crossing.  10.8  miles  

8  90 

Eleval  ion,  9  miles  .                  

T^.lprntiim.  9.  .r>  milps 

9.  .............             91               damns  nrairie.      -      _.    --            .       - 

Summit  above  prairie,  3.  4  miles.......       .  . 

Tlpsf-pnf.  tii  rivpr  lilnflT  9.  3  milps 

10  to  12  92             mark's  fhrit  nf  Hiiliimhift  rivftr  .__    

High  Rock,  9.  7  miles  ..  

Point  nf  mmmtain.  Ifi.  7  miles. 

12  to  14           .                       93              TTinmnann'a  nrnirip. 

River  level,  12.  4  miles  

Hidi  bluff.  Ifi  .2  miles... 

15  94             Vallpv  (if  mark's  fork  ..    __    _.__ 

Elevation.  9.  9  miles  .. 

16  !          96          '  VfllW  nf  f!lnrk's  fork  

T^.lpvntion    '2  niilps. 

17  1        97        '  Valley  of  Clark's  fork  

18         ...........             98               Summit  nf  mountain  .          

Mountain  nninf.  .r>  8  miles  .. 

19  to  21  99           Pend  d'Oreille  lake  

21  100           Pend  d'Oreille.  lake  

22  101           Pend  d'Oreille  lake             

23to25  102              f!rossiiinr  helmv  IH!<P.    

Summit  of  Sookane  country.  20.  5  miles... 

25  103        '  Spokane  prairie.......  ..           .           . 

26  104        '  ..     . 

27  105         

Spokane  crossing,  4  miles... 

PARTIAL   RESULTS   OF   EXPLORATION. 

Heights  by  the  Barometer — Continued. 


459 


Date. 

Number  of 
camp. 

Place. 

Height  in 
feet  above 
the  sea. 

Oct      28  to  30 

106 

2  133 

2  540 

30 

107 

Fork  of  Spokane  river                   ....         .          ......................... 

2  374 

Bluff  after  leaving  camp,  10.  6  miles  ................................ 

2  360 

31 

108 

Fork  of  Peluse  river                          .   ................               ........... 

2  160 

Nov.       1                 ... 

109 

Fork  ot  Peluse  river.  ........................  ......  .................. 

1  542 

2 

110 

Fork  of  Peluse  river  .  .           .,.         .        ................ 

1  227 

Pelnse  Kiver  crossing,  7.  3  miles  .  

960 

Bluff  on  Snake  river,  16.6  miles  .  ..  ..  .... 

1,239 

3  to  5 

111 

Snake  liver  ................ 

354 

Snake  River  bluff,  1.  5  miles  .               

744 

Elevation  between  S'nnke  and  Wallah-Wall»h  rivers,    8.7  miles  .  

1,614 

Elevation  between  Snake  and  Wallah-Wallah  rivers,  14.  1  miles  

1,013 

Elevation  between  Snake  and  Wallah-  Wallah  rivers,  20.  7  miles  

1,  139 

Elevation  between  Snake  and  Wallah-  Wallah  rivers,  23.2  miles..  

1,740 

5     

112 

840 

Prairie  towards  Wallah-  Wallah  rivor,  16  miles  .  ....  ...   .. 

1,085 

6  

113 

Near  Fort  Wallah-Wallah  

409 

Columbia  river  bluff,  1.  7  miles  

522 

Memoranda  concerning  the  Meteorological  Observations  on  the  Missouri  river,  by  Lieutenant  A.  J. 

Donclson. 

The  barometer  used  from  St.  Louis  to  Fort  Pierre  was  "  Green's  closed  cistern,"  No.  718. 
Its  error  was  assumed  to  be  — .050  inch.  At  Fort  Pierre,  after  a  series  of  readings,  it  indicated 
a  height  of  column  .050  inch  greater  than  barometer  No.  722,  which  was  "Green's  open  cistern," 
of  glass.  The  latter  barometer  was  used  from  Fort  Pierre  to  Fort  Union.  It  was  compared  in 
St.  Louis  with  Dr.  Engelmann's  standard,  and  its  error  was  — .01  inch. 

In  the  accompanying  tables  the  barometer  has  been  first  reduced  to  the  freezing-point;  employ 
ing  for  this  purpose  the  tables  for  barometers  with  brass  scales,  then  corrected  for  error,  and  then 
for  horary  variation.  For  the  latter  the  following  scale,  kindly  furnished  by  Professor  Blodget, 
and  adopted  for  Fort  Union,  has  been  used: 


4  a.  m.  +0.20 

5  a.  m.  +0.15 

6  a.  m.      .000 

7  a.  m.  —.010 


8  a.  m.  —.015 

9  a.  m.  —.025 

10  a.  m.  —.040 

11  a.  m.  —.035 

12  m.       -.008 


1  p.  m.      .000 

2  p.  m.  +.018 

3  p.  m.  +.025 

4  p.  m.  +.030 

5  p.  m.  +.030 


6  p.  m.  +.020 

7  p.  m.  +.010 

8  p.  m.  +.000 

9  p.  m.  —.015 

10  p.  m.  —.025 

11  p.  m.  —.020 

12  p.  m.  -.000 


Below  Fort  Union,  the  variation  at  5  p.  m.  was  taken  as  +.035.  The  calculation  has  been 
made  by  using  the  Smithsonian  meteorological  tables. 

The  numbers  in  brackets,  in  the  column  of  heights,  denote  the  estimated  height  of  the  instru 
ment  above  low  water. 

The  point  of  reference  was  the  level  of  the  sea  where  the  height  of  the  barometric  column 
would  be  30.000  inches,  the  temperature  being  64°. 

A  constant  number,  34.9,  has  been  added  to  each  calculated  height. 


460  PARTIAL    RESULTS  OF   EXPLORATION. 

Talk  of  Bdronutricfil  Olwrrat'ums  and  of  Heights  and  Distances  on  the  Missouri  river. 


Station. 

Date—  J853. 

Distances 

Barometer  readings. 

Attached  thermometer. 

Open  air  thermometer. 

Corrected  barometer. 

Elevation  above  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico. 

Day. 

Hour. 

6 
w 

a 

U< 

o 
as 
£ 
"S 

c 

2 
h 

0 

J 

OQ 

2 
g 

fa 

May  24 
24 

25 
25 

26 
26 

27 

28 
28 
28 
29 
31 
31 

June  1 
i) 

7 
14 

14 

14 
14 

18 
19 
19 

19 
20 
20 
2d 

10.  10  a  in 
2.  15  p  in. 
1.50  p.  rn. 
7.50p.m. 

10.20  a  m. 
I.I  5  p.m. 

11.10p.m. 
9.10a.m. 
12.30p.m. 
9.30  p.  m. 
2.  55  p.  m. 
3.  45  p.  m. 
12  p.m... 
8.10p.m. 
10.  15  p.  ui. 
11.40a.m. 
12.15  a.  m. 
6.  15  p.  m. 

214 

220 
268 
297 
325 
33:', 

412 

428 
4)57 
460 
480 
568 
586 
608 
646 
770 
820 
1,100 

29.  760 
29.  72 
29.  67 
29.  60 
29.  54 
29.  52 

29.43 
29.  436 
29.  394 
29.  206 

28.  984 

28.  884 
28.  81 

28.  778 
28.  616 
28.  478 

2*.  434 

27.  940 

28.  558 

28.  248 

28.  536 
28.  502 
28.  450 
28.  494 

28.335 

28.  240 
28.  200 

28.  140 
28.  155 

65 

69.  5 
75 

70 
70 

80 

60 
71.5 
82 
72 

76.3 
67.  5 
(58.  5 

79.  5 
82.5 
75 

73.5 
71.5 

78 
77.5 

76.5 
74.5 
74.5 
75 

69 

62 

79 

59 

67.8 

64 
67 

70 
67 
6*.  5 
75 

64 
70.  5 
77 
69 

73 
67 
67 

74 

82 
75 

73.5 
71.5 

74 
74.5 

76 
70 
70 
71 

66 

55 

72 

54 

63 
72 

29.  573 
29.  582 
29.  508 
29.  444 
29.  341 
29.  324 

29.281 
29.  249 
29.  199 
29.  023 

28.  841 

28.  734 
28.  654 

28.581 
28.  455 
28.  300 

23.  260 
27.  764 

2^.417 

28.  106 

28.  390 
28.  296 
28.  294 
28.  296 

28.  214 

28.  121 
28.114 

28.  044 

28.  005 
27.  932 

436.4    (20) 
42-^.6     (6) 

51)1 
560       (20) 
659 
680       (20) 

713 

749 
802 
967 

1150.2 
1245 
1323.5   (20) 

1402 
1556       (10) 
1686 

1723 

2M! 

1566.  7     (9) 

1880 

1662 
1757 

1834         (9) 
1873 

1907       (10) 

1974 

2055       (40) 

6 

48 
29 
28 
8 

79 
16 
9 

23 

20 
88 
18 
22 
38 
124 
511 
280 

Bight  b;ink,elevri)  miles  below  Brunswick. 
Left  bank,  eight  miles  above  Mi.iini  
Left  bank,  six  miles  above  Dover  Landing. 

Bight  bank,  twelve  miles  above  the  mouth 

Two  miles  below  Fort  Lcavenworth...    . 

I7i<rht  bank   one  mile  above  Weston  ,----. 

Five  miles  below  Columbus  Landing  

Two  mile^  below  the  Little  Xemaha 

Sixteen  miles  above  the  Little  Nemaha... 
Five  miles  below  Weeping  Water  river.  .. 
Bi'llevue  

Two  miles  below  the  Little  Sioux  river  .  .. 
Blackbird's  Hill       

Cedar  island,  two  miles  above  the  foot  
First  range  of  bluffs,  right  bank  opposite, 
one-uuarter  of  a  mile  from  river  ...... 

Second   range,  three-quarters  of  a   mile 
fr<  >in  river       ..       

9.30  p.  m. 
lO.lup.  m. 
1.45  p.  m. 
5.  3D  p.m. 
4  p   in 

Third  range,  one  and  a  half  mile  from  river. 
Old  Fort  George           . 

149 
25 

1,249 
1,274 

Fort  Pierre  at  the  landing  

Blurt's,  tw  •  miles  west  of  Fort  Pierre  
Northe:i  ,  i  corner  of  Fort  Pierre,  three- 
qu..rters  of  a  mile  from  landing...  

3pm. 

Do  do  do  

10  a    m 

Do       do  ..do  

10.5  a.  m. 
10.15a.m. 

Do                do  do  

Big  Cheyenne  river  

42 

30 
49£ 
24£ 

804 

184 
22 

48 
30 
20 
37 

18 
3 
65 
74 
7 
40^ 

34 
50 
52 
15 

1,316 

1,346 
1,3954 
1,420 
1,5004 
1,519 
1,541 
1,589 
1,619 
1,639 
1,676 

1,694 
1,6>7 
],7ti2 
1.KJ6 
1,843 
I,8h34 
1,887 
1  ,  937 
1  ,  9H«) 
2,  004 

Right  bank,  thirty  miles  above  Big  Chey- 

22 

12  m 

WVtarhoo  river.  ...    .... 

Cannon-ball  river              ..............   .  ...    . 

Right  bank,  two  miles  below  Eagle  Butte  

Heart  river  ....  .... 

Fort  Clarke     ......................... 

Knife  creek  .  ......  ......  ......  ....  .... 

Three  miles  above  La  Fontaine  Rouge  
Fort  Bei'thold  

29 

30 

30 

10  p.  m... 
5  p.  m... 

11.30p.m. 

Right  bank,  three  miles  below  Little  Mis 
souri  river       ........  ....  .... 

Little  Missouri  i  iver     ...  ........ 

\Vhite  Earth  river  ..................  .  ..... 

Muddy  creek  ..........................  -        

Seven  milet'  above  Muddy  creek  

July    3 

10  a.  m... 

Mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  

Fort  Union...   (mean  of  62  observations), 
(ireat  Muddy  river.  

Poplar  river  ......    .   ..     ............. 

Fifteen  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Poplar 

PARTIAL    RESULTS    OF    EXPLORATION. 


461 


Meteorological  Observations  at  stations  on  the  route. 

I. — From  register  kept  by  Mr.  James  Doty,  at  Fort  Benton,  Upper  Missouri  river,  latitude  47°  49'  34"  N.    Approximate 
longitude  1 10°  35'  W. ;  approximate  elevation  2,  329  feet. 


Mean  temperatures. 

Extreme  temperatures. 

Date. 

Remarks. 

7  a.  m, 

2p.m. 

9  p.  m. 

Monthly 

Upper. 

Day  and  hour. 

Lower. 

Day  and  hour. 

mean. 

1853. 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

October  

47 

61 

51 

53 

80 

17th,  2  p.  m. 

10 

23d,  7  a.  m. 

But  a  slight  Quantity  of  rain 

fell.     Of  snow  there  were  3| 

inches  —  2£    inches   on    the 

24th,  and  |  inch  on  the  31st. 

The  general  direction  of  the 

wind  was  west-southwest. 

November  .  .  . 

12.7 

27.5 

18 

19.4 

58 

20th,  2  p.  m. 

g 

5th  and  25th, 

Of  snow  'Jf  inches  fell.     The 

7  a.  m. 

general  direction  of  the  wind 

was  north. 

December... 

27.77 

40.94 

30.4 

33.03 

60 

8th,  2  p.  m. 

0 

22d,   7  a.  m. 

Clear  weather  prevailed.    The 

general  direction  of  the  wind 

was  southwest. 

II. — From  register  kept  under  the  direction  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  United  States  army,  at  Cantonment  Stevens,  Bitter 
Root  valley,  Washington  Territory.     Approximate  latitude  46°  19'  15"  N. ;  approximate  longitude  113°  55'  W. 


Date. 

Barometer. 

Extremes  of  the  barometer  before  and  after  re 
ductions  to  freezing  poiut. 

Mean  temperatures. 

Mean  height  of 
column. 

Mean  of  reduc 
tions  to  freez 
ing  poiut. 

Upper. 

Day  and  hour. 

Lower. 

Day  and  hour. 

7  a.  m. 

2  p.m. 

9  p.m. 

Monthly  mean. 

o 

o 

o 

o 

Jan.,  1854.... 

26.  354 

26.  360 

26.  870 

5th,  7  a.  m. 

26.  020 

3d,  7  a.  m. 

12.10 

16.87 

12.82 

13.93 

reduced 
26.  956 

25.  985 
25.  965 
reduced 

24th,  2  p.m. 
24th,  9p.m. 

26.  005 

26.  035 

26.015 

Feb.,  1854.... 

26.  215 

26.  207 

26.  570 
reduced 

1st,  9  p.  m. 

25.  630 
reduced 

llth,  7  a.m. 

28 

37.15 

28.87 

31.34 

26.  590 

25.617 

March,  1854... 

26.  144 

26.  117 

26.  480 

31st,  7  a.  m. 

25.  785 

10th,  7  a.  m. 

37.8 

46.5 

34.2 

39.5 

reduced 

reduced 

26.  476 

25.751 

April,  1854.... 

25.  982 

25.  933 

26.  500 
reduced 

1st,  7  a.  m. 

25.  195 

reduced 

18th,  2  p.  m. 

46 

58.5 

46.9 

50.5 

26.  495 

25.  089 

May,  1854.... 

25.  976 

25.  891 

26.  340 
reduced 

9th,  7  a.m. 

25.  295 
reduced 

21st,  7am. 

53.2 

62.7 

49.8 

54.8 

26.  319 

25.  212 

462 


PARTIAL    RESULTS  OF   EXPLORATION. 


Meteorological  Observations  at  stations  on  the  route — Continued. 

II — Continued. 


I 

Extreme  temperatures. 

Mean  quantity 

Mean  course  and  velocity 

Mean  direction  and  force  of 

of  clouds. 

of  clouds. 

wind. 

Date. 

;-' 

V 

Day  and  hour. 

c 

SJ 
b. 

Day  and  hour. 

5 

S 

a 

s 

3 

s 

a 

^                ^ 
~ 

CM 

a. 

0 

•< 

PH' 

& 

<i 

P^ 

0^ 

<3 

PL,                 p_ 

S3 

h3 

«> 

<M 

C5 

1^ 

<M 

C5 

t-. 

JN                       OJ 

o 

O 

Jan.,  1854.... 

52 

31st,  2p.m.  —29 

19th,  9  p.m. 

4.8 

6 

7 

Not  rec 

orded  in  r 

egister. 

s.         1.1  sw.     1.15sw.     1.19 

Feb.,  1854  ... 

4ii       9th,  "2  p.  in.       14         3d,  7  a.  in 

(5.4 

5.3 

4.7 

SE.        .7 

wsw.  1.3 

ssw.  .4    sw.     5 

wsw.  1.  1    s.        5 

March,  1854.. 

til 

24th,  2  p.  in.       22.  5     1  st,  9  p.  m. 

5.4 

6 

4 

sw.    .6 

sw.        .5 

sw.    .6 

ssw.  9 

sw.     1.  5    ssw.  5 

2d,  7  a.  m. 

April,  1854  ...    74 

17th,     18th, 

31 

1st,  7  a.  m. 

5 

5.7 

4.8 

s\v.    .1    ssw.      .5 

s.       .03s.        9 

wsw.  1.4    w.      8 

29th,  2  p.m. 

May,  1854.... 

80 

21st,  2  p.  m. 

36 

7th,  7  a.  m. 

4.9 

5.4 

4.6 

SSE.  .16  ssw.      .38  w.      .03ssE.    6      sw.     1        NW.    3 

and  9  p.  m. 

REMARKS. 

January,  1854. — The  thermometer  at  9  p.  m.  on  the  5th  is  marked  in  the  register  as  not  readable.  There  fell  about  1  inch  of 
rain,  and  7|  inches  of  snow. 

February,  1854. — There  fell  about  4£  inches  of  snow. 

March,  1854. — There  was  a  slight  full  of  snow  on  the  night  of  the  3d.  A  snow  squall  at  3  p.  m.  on  the  Gth  for  a  few  minutes. 
Snow  from  7  p.  m.  to  11  p.  m  on  the  7th  (1£  inch.)  Squalls  of  snow  at  intervals  all  day  on  the  8th.  Alternate  snow  and  rain  all 
the  morning  of  the  10th.  It  rained  from  3h.  30m.  p.  m.  on  the  27th  till  8h.  30m.  a.  m.  on  the  28th.  Occasional  showers  on  the 
28th.  Squalls  of  snow  and  rain  at  intervals  on  the  29th.  Squalls  of  snow  on  the  30th. 

April,  1854. — Rain  at  6h.  30m.  p.  m.  on  the  1st.  Rained  moderately  all  the  forenoon,  and  again  in  the  evening,  on  the  2d. 
Slight  rain  on  the  evening  of  the  4th.  Snow  squall  at  9  a.  m.  on  the  7th.  Shower  in  the  north  on  the  15th.  Occasional  showers 
during  afternoon  of  the  19th.  Distant  thunder  shower  on  the  2Cth.  Slight  rain  on  the  21st,  and  slight  fall  of  snow  on  the  night 
of  the  21st.  Slight  rain  at  4h.  30m.  p.  m.  on  the  25th. 

May,  1854. — Slight  thunder  shower,  with  north-northwest  wind,  on  the  2d.  Rain  at  9  p.  m.  on  the  5th.  Raining  slightly  at 
intervals  all  day  on  the  6th.  Raining  steadily  until  7  p.  m.,  again  at  7h.  30m.  p.  m.,  with  some  snow,  on  the  7th.  On  the  8th  it 
rained  from  8h.  45m.  a.  m.  until  12  m.,  and  there  was  rain  at  intervals  all  the  afternoon.  On  the  13th  there  was  a  heavy  shower 
from  3  p.  m.  until  7h.  30m.  p.  m.,  with  high  ea*t  and  southeast  winds.  On  the  16th,  at  11  p.  m.,  heavy  shower  for  30  minutes. 
On  the  27th  there  was  slight  rain  from  8h.  30m.  p.  m.  until  9h.  30m.  p.  m.  On  the  28th  there  was  a  slight  shower  at  9  p.  m., 
and  snow  from  9h.  30m.  p.  m.  until  3  a.  m.  29th  (1£  inch.)  On  the  29th  it  rained  slowly  from  5  p.  m.  until  9  p.  m.  On  the  30th 
it  rained  from  10  a.  m.  until  4  p.  m. 


PARTIAL   RESULTS   OP   EXPLORATION. 

Meteorological  Observations  at  stations  on  the  route — Continued. 


463 


II. — From  register  kept  under  the  direction  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  U.  S.  A.    Determination  of  the  height  of  Cantonment 

Stevens. 


Barometer. 

Mean  tempe 
rature  of  the 
air. 

Height. 

Remarks. 

Mean  height  of 
column,    431 
observations. 

Mean  of  reduc 
tions    to    the 
freezing  point. 

26.  134 

26.  102 

0 

38.01 

Feet. 
3,  754 

The  calculation  has  been  made  by  referring  the  station  to  the  level 
of  the  sea  in  the  same  latitude,  where  it  is  assumed  that  the  cor 
rected  height  of  the  barometrical  cclumn  is  30  inches,  and  the 
temperature  of  the  air  55°.  No  corrections  have  been  applied 
except  those  for  the  temperatures  of  the  air  for  the  latitude,  and 
for  the  elevation  of  the  upper  barometer.  In  making  the  re 
ductions  to  the  freezing  point  the  tables  for  barometers  with 
brass  scales  have  been  used.  The  barometer  employed  in  the 
observations  was  Green's  open  cistern,  which,  it  is  thought,  has 
its  scale  on  glass.  The  observations  were  generally  taken  daily 
at  7  a.  m.,  2  p.  m.,  and  9  p.  m.  The  following  are,  however, 
wanting,  viz:  In  January,  at  7  a.  in.  on  the  1st,  2d,  7th,  and  1  1th  ; 
at  2  p.  m.  on  the  1st,  10th,  1  1th,  and  30th  :  and  at  9  p.  m.  on  the 
1st,  6th,  10th,  and  29th.  In  February,  at  2  p.  m.  on  the  8th,  and 
at  9  p.  m.  on  the  8th  and  9th.  In  April,  at  2  p.  m.  on  the  15th 
and  28th.  And  in  May,  at  2  p.  m.  on  the  1st  and  20th.  The 
observations,  as  recorded  in  the  register,  at  9  p.  m.  on  the  28th 
of  April  and  the  14th  of  May,  and  at  2  p.  m.  on  the  15th  of  May, 
are,  respectively,  26.691),  2ci.9;il),  and  26  880.  From  the  general 
range  of  the  barometer  at  the  time,  it  is  thought  25.690,  25.900, 
and  25.880,  were  intended. 

III. — Copied,  by  permission,  from  a  register  kept  at  Fort  Steilacoom,  W.  T.,  by  Dr.  J.  M.  Haden  and  Dr.  George  Suckley, 

U.  S.  A.,  for  the  medical  department. 


Mean  temperatures. 

Extreme  temperatures. 

Date. 

Sunrise. 

9  a.  m. 

3  p.  m. 

9  p.  m. 

Monthly 

S 

Day  and  hour. 

® 

Day  and  hour. 

mean. 

1 

0 

1853. 

o 

o 

o 

o 

0 

o 

o 

October... 

45.  25 

55.58 

62.32 

51.19 

53.32 

78 

4th,  3  p.  m. 

29 

23d,  sunrise. 

November. 

40.2 

46.7 

50.43 

43.73 

44.63 

59 

30th,  3  p.  m. 

27 

14th,  sunrise. 

December. 

3&74 

44.30 

51 

44..  45 

44.74 

60 

2d,  3d,  &  5th, 

23 

20th,  sunrise. 

3  p.  m. 

1854. 

January...  :  24.  64 

29.93 

37.80 

30.03  1     31.38 

58 

2d  and  29th, 

—  1 

22d,  sunrise. 

3  p.  m. 

Remarks 


There  was  hoar  frost  three 
times,  and  frost  once,  during  the 
month. 

There  were  18.  41  inches  of  rain. 
Hoar  frost  twice ;  one  strong 
frost. 

There  were  4.  42  inches  of  rain. 
1£  inch  of  snow  at  sunrise  on 
the  23d.  There  were  hoar  frost 
three  times,  frost  once,  and  hard 
frost  four  times,  during  the 
month. 


2^  inches  of  snow  at  sunrise, 
and  ice  1£  inch  thick  on  the 
4th.  Snow  latter  part  of  the 
10th ;  2|  inches  of  snow  at  sun 
rise,  and  snow  at  intervals,  on 
the  llth.  Light  showers  of 
snow  at  intervals  on  the  12th. 
Six  days  when  there  was  frost. 


464 


PARTIAL    RESULTS   OF   EXPLORATION. 
Meteorological  Observations  at  stations  on  the  route — Continued. 

Q 

III — Continued. 


ate. 

Mean  temperatures. 

Extreme  temperatures. 

Eemarks. 

Sunrise. 

9  a.  m. 

3  p.  in. 

9  p.  in. 

Monthly 
mean. 

ti 

o> 

p. 

CH 
P 

Day  and  hour. 

Lower. 

Day  and  hour 

1854. 
February.. 

o 
34.17 

o 
39.  8-2 

o 
48.17 

o 
36.  42 

o 
43 

O 

60 

23d,   3  p.  m. 

o 
22 

1st,  sunrise 

There  were  7.  57  inches  of  rain. 
One-eighth  of  an  inch  of  snow  at 
sunrise  on  the    1st.     Snow  at 

intervals    on    the    l()th.     One- 

quarter  inch  of  snow  at  sunrise, 
and  snow  at  intervals,  on  the 

llth.    Snow  on  the  14th.    Hard 

frost    four    times  ,    hoar   frost 

twice. 

March  

35.58 

43.58 

54.  22 

40.09 

46.08 

67 

24th,  3  p.  m. 

28 

31st,  sunrise. 

There  were  2.  89  inches  of  rain. 
Liijlit  showers  of  snow  at  inter 

vals  on  the  Kith.     Showers  of 

hail  and  snow  on  the  v!9th.     Two 

hoar  frosts  and  one  hard  frost 

during  the  month. 

IV.— From  register  kept  by  Mr.  Geo.  W.  Stevens,  at  Olympia,  Washington  Territory;  latitude  47°  02' 50";  approximate 
longitude  122°  53'  W.  Those  results,  in  this  table,  which  were  obtained  at  Fort  Steilacoom,  have  been  copied,  by  permission, 
from  a  register  kept  by  Dr.  Geo.  Suckley,  and  Dr.  Eichard  Potts,  U.  S.  A.,  for  the  medical  department  U.  S.  A. 


Mean   tempera 

Extreme  te  nperatures. 

Mean  quanti 

Mean  course  and  velocity  of 

Mean  direction  and  force  of 

tures. 

ty  of  clouds. 

clouds. 

wind. 

a 

Date. 

a 
S 

3 

O 

3 

O 

>. 

-— 

^ 

s    s 

^ 

C 

a 
c: 

o 

5 

g 

S     S 

E 

S 

!e 

3 

jg 

g" 

BH 

1 

c. 

Q. 

rt 

•; 

>> 

^ 

a^     o^ 

<j 

el 

PM 

4 

^ 

cl 

r-      a 

0) 

« 

D 

Q 

j 

Q 

t~ 

'' 

n3 

O! 

r- 

CT 

C5 

April,  1854  

44.957.1 

49.6 

50.5 

72 

15th,  2p.m. 

34.5  1st,  2  p.  m.. 

8.3 

6.3 

4.7 

SW.,    1 

SW.,     1.6 

SW.,      .5 

SSW.,  .7 

W.,     1.7 

SW.,       .3 

FORT      STEILA 

COOM. 

May,  1854    

56.51 

84 

19th.  3  p.  m. 

3fi 

25th,  sunrise 

June   1854. 

61.4 

86 

10th,  3  p.  in.  -14 

6tli.  sunrrsc  . 

OLYMPIA..* 

July,  1854  
August  1854.... 

55     !75.9 

55.5  74.2 

64     65 
65.5R-V1 

89.4 
86.5 

25th,  2  p.m. 
14th  &  15th, 

45 

48 

2d,  7  a.  m.  .  . 
22d,  7  a.  m.. 

2.2 
5  6 

2.5   0.4 

4.4    3 

NW.,      .4 
SWW.,  .8 

WNW.,.5 

SW.,       .8 

W.,         .1 

VW.,  1.1 

SE.,     1 

NNW.,2 
NW.,    2 

WNW.,  .9 

SW.,       .8 

2  p  m. 

September,  1854 
October,  1854.  .. 

53.1  69 
45.360.2 

56.959.7 
48.751.4 

84.  5  20th,"  2  p.m. 
73     4th,  2p.m.. 

44.830th,  7  a.  m. 
33     7th,  7a.m.. 

7.5 
6.6 

5 
5.7 

3.5 

5 

SW,       .9 
SWW.,  .8 

W.          .9 
SW.      1.4 

R.,         .07 
SWW.... 

S.,        1 
SSE.,    .7 

NW.,     1.7 
NNW.,  1.6 

SW.,       .6 

S.,            .7 

*  Registers  for  Olympia  for  May  and  June,  1854,  not  received. 

EEMARKS. 

Jljnil,  1854. — "No  rain-gauge.  The  whole  month  might  be  called  a  continuous  rain-storm,  though  there  were  three  or  four  pleasant  evenings. 
Fair  weather  was  always  of  very  brief  duration."  "  There  was  a  pretty  heavy  frost  on  the  night  of  the  7th  ;  rain  and  hail  together  for  15  minutes  on 
the  llth;  ice,  £-jnch  thick,  formed  on  the  night  of  the  20th;  frost  on  the  nights  of  the  21st  and  25th."  At  Fort  Steilacoom,  latitude  47°  10' 57"  N., 
longitude  12-2°  33'  W.,  the  quantity  of  rain  (luring  the  month  was  12.5  inches. 

May  and  June,  1854.— Quantity  of  rain  0. 88-inch.    Light  "  hoar  frost"  and  light  frost  (luring  May.     Quantity  of  rain  in  June  5.68  inches. 

July,  1854.—"  Not  a  drop  of  rain  during  the  whole  month,  except  a  slight  sprinkle  at  4i  p.  m.  on  the  15th.  At  Fort  Steilacoom  there  was  0.35  inch 
of  rain  on  the  16th,  ;md  on  the  same  day  there  was  "hoar  frost." 

August,  1854.— At  Fort  Steilacoom  there  were  3.93  inches  of  rain,  and  there  were  two  heavy  and  two  light  frosts,  during  the  month. 

September,  1854. — At  Fort  Steilacoom  there  were  3.46  inches  of  rain,  and  there  was  frost  four  times,  during  the  month. 

October,  1854.— There  were  3.14  inches  of  rain.    Five  frosts  during  the  month. 


COUNTRY   UPON    SHOALWATER    BAY    AND    PUGET    SOUND.  465 

REPORT  OF  GEORGE  GIBBS  ON  A  RECONNAISSANCE   OF  THIS  COUNTRY  LYING  UPON  SHOALWATER 

BAY  AND  PUGET  SOUND. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

March  1,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  herewith  the  honor  to  submit  the  report  of  the  journey  undertaken,  pursuant  to 
your  orders,  for  the  examination  of  the  country  lying  between  Shoal  water  bay  and  Puget  sound, 
as  also  of  a  tour  through  the  Sound  itself. 

This  bay,  the  entrance  to  which  lies  about  twenty-five  miles  north  of  Cape  Disappointment, 
approaches  in  its  southern  extremity  to  within  four  miles  of  Baker's  bay  and  fifteen  of  Gray's 
harbor.  Its  length  from  north  to  south  is  by  estimate  about  thirty  miles,  and  its  average  width 
eight.  The  width  of  the  entrance  is  reported  at  five  milos.  It  has  two  channels,  both  pretty 
straight;  but  the  northern  only  a  good  beating  channel.  The  depth  of  water  on  the  bar  at  low 
tide  is  three  and  a  half  fathoms.  The  greater  part  of  the  bay  is  bare  at  low  tide,  presenting 
extensive  mud  flats,  so  that  vessels  can  approach  the  shore  in  but  few  places.  There  are  three 
routes  used  by  the  Indians,  in  crossing  between  the  bay  and  the  Columbia  river.  One  of  these 
is  by  the  Wallacut  creek  at  Baker's  bay,  with  a  portage  of  about  a  mile  and  a  half  to  another 
running  into  Shoalwater  bay.  Here  the  land  is  so  low,  that  it  is  said  a  canal,  a  few  hundred 
yards  in  length,  could  easily  be  made,  connecting  the  waters  of  the  two.  There  seems  a  strong 
probability  that  Shoalwater  bay  once  formed  part  of  the  estuary  of  the  Columbia  river,  the  rocky 
promontory  of  Cape  Disappointment  being  an  island  in  its  midst,  or  at  least  that  an  actual  com 
munication  existed  between  them.  A  second  portage,  by  which  I  crossed,  leads  from  the  Wap- 
paloche  creek,  below  Chinook  Spit,  to  the  Ateesowill,  and  is  about  the  same  length.  These 
creeks  are  all  tide-sloughs,  nearly  dry  at  low  water.  A  third  is  by  the  Kewitsa,  which  runs  into 
Gray's  bay  above  Point  Ellice,  from  which  there  is  a  poitage  to  the  Nasal,  a  stream  emptying  into 
Shoalwater  bay  some  miles  from  its  southern  extremity.  This  last  is  not  much  used.  For  the 
establishment  of  any  artificial  communication,  the  first-named  is  preferable. 

The  peninsula  extending  north  from  Cape  Disappointment  is  similar  in  character  to  the  Clatsop 
plains,  much  of  it  being  prairie  land;  it  is,  however,  deficient  in  water.  On  the  north  a  straight 
beach  runs  to  Gray's  harbor.  Quite  a  number  of  streams  empty  into  Shoalwater  bay,  of  which 
the  principal  are  the  Nasal,  (already  mentioned,)  the  Copaluks,  and  the  Willopah.  The  first  two 
must  head  in  the  mountains,  near  Gray's  river.  The  latter  rises  in  the  divide  between  the  waters 
of  the  Chihalis  and  the  bay,  the  main  branch  probably  interlocking  with  the  south  fork  of  that 
river,  in  a  mountain  lying  north  of  Cathlamet.  On  all  these,  as  well  as  the  smaller  streams,  there 
is  a  good  deal  of  salt-marsh  near  the  mouth,  subject  to  flood  in  winter.  The  tide,  the  extremes  of 
which  are  about  the  same  as  those  on  the  Columbia  river  at  Astoria,  (viz:  13  feet,)  extends  from 
eight  to  fifteen  miles  up  those  rivers ;  but  vessels  could  not  ascend  so  far.  The  country  upon  the 
bay  is,  like  most  of  that  in  the  coast  section  of  the  Territory,  heavily  wooded  with  fir,  spruce, 
hemlock,  and  arbor  vitas.  Upon  the  rivers,  white  and  vine  maple  and  alder  occur.  The  timber 
is  good  and  accessible,  but  there  are  few  sites  tor  saw-mills.  One  mill  only  had  been  erected 
at  the  time  of  my  visit,  and  that  was  not  yet  in  operation.  A  considerable  amount  of  piles  and 
square  timber  has,  however,  been  shipped  to  California. 

The  settlements  are  as  yet,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  scattered  claims,  at  the  northern  end 
of  the  bay;  and  a  small  village,  occupied  by  fishermen,  has  grown  up  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Willopah.  The  principal  trade,  so  far,  has  been  in  oysters,  which  abound  on  the  flats.  They 
are  taken  up,  during  the  low  tides  of  summer,  from  their  natural  beds,  separated,  and  replanted, 
as  in  the  States.  They  sell  alongside  the  vessel  at  $1  50  per  bushel,  and  in  San  Francisco  aie 
worth  $7.  The  fall  salmon,  sturgeon,  and  other  kinds  of  fish,  are  abundant,  and  the  bay  will 
probably  derive  a  considerable  importance  from  this  source.  No  part  of  the  coast  affords  a 
greater  field  for  the  naturalist  than  does  this  place,  in  its  variety  of  marine  productions  and  the 
59/ 


466  COUNTRY  UPON  SHOAWATER  BAY  AND  PUGET  SOUND. 

aquatic  birds  which  visit  it  during  the  fall  and  spring.  As  regards  its  geology,  the  same  tertiary 
formation  which  exists  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  extends  here  also,  and  the  only  rock  in 
place  is  a  sort  of  argillaceous  limestone.  There  are  evidences  of  comparatively  recent  changes 
in  the  elevation  of  the  land.  Between  the  Copaluks  and  the  Willopah,  there  is  in  a  high  clay  bank 
a  stratum  of  shells — chiefly  of  oysters  and  a  species  of  clam,  now  extinct  here,  though  said  to 
exist  elsewhere  on  the  coast.  The  bed  is  elevated  from  three  to  eight  feet  above  the  present 
level,  and  is  covered  with  earth  in  places  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet.  A  narrow  seam  of  vege 
table  matter  is  visible  in  another  place  at  a  similar  depth.  Logs  and  stumps  of  trees  protrude 
from  this  bank,  which  is  undergoing  constant  abrasion.  At  Stony  Point  there  is  a  stratum  of 
transported  boulders  of  large  size,  and  a  layer  of  gravel  containing  agates. 

The  principal  object  of  my  journey  was  to  explore  the  route  connecting  Shoalwater  bay  with 
the  interior.  An  old  Indian  trail,  disused  for  some  years  since  the  extinction  of  the  tribe  through 
whose  country  it  ran,  wras  said  to  lead  from  some  point  on  the  Willopah,  and  intersect  the  road 
from  the  Cowlitz  Farms  to  Puget  sound.  The  journey,  according  to  report,  took  but  two  days. 
1  found  it  impossible  to  obtain  Indian  guides  in  consequence  of  the  season — the  few  remaining  on 
the  bay,  who  had  ever  travelled  it,  being  unwilling  to  venture  out,  and  representing  the  trail  as 
entirely  overgrown  and  difficult  to  follow.  Three  of  the  citizens,  however,  Messrs.  J.  L.  Brown, 
Charles  Stuart,  and  Samuel  Woodward,  volunteered  to  accompany  me,  and  we  concluded  at  least 
to  make  the  attempt.  On  the  17th  December  we  proceeded  up  the  Willopah  about  fifteen  miles 
in  a  canoe,  and  then  landing,  started  on  foot,  taking  with  us  six  days'  provisions.  The  nature  of 
the  country  not  permitting  us  to  follow  any  divide,  we  were  compelled  to  travel  through  the  river- 
bottom,  fording  the  stream  occasionally  at  the  bends.  Finding,  alter  three  days'  travel,  that  we 
had  made  but  fifteen  miles,  and  being  apprehensive  that,  should  we  be  overtaken  by  heavy  rains 
or  snow,  we  could  neither  advance  nor  return,  I  thought  it  prudent  to  abandon  the  attempt  for 
the  time  being,  the  more  especially  as  we  had  got  hold  of  the  trail,  and  succeeded  in  ascertaining 
the  direction  of  the  river,  and  the  character  of  the  country  before  us. 

The  general  course  of  the  route  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  map.  The  lower  part  of  the 
river  is  bordered  with  tide-lands,  at  first  open,  but  affording  here  and  there  higher  land  suitable 
for  grazing.  The  river  is  a  mile  wide  at  its  mouth,  narrowing  to  twenty-five  yards,  as  a  general 
width,  beyond  the  influence  of  the  tides.  These  extend  to  the  rapids,  seventeen  miles  up,  beyond 
\vhich  it  is  merely  a  bold  stream.  At  this  time  it  had  fallen  nearly  to  the  common  level;  but  a 
few  weeks  before,  it  rose  sixteen  feet  after  a  heavy  rain.  It  is  very  winding,  the  banks  high  on 
one  side  and  flooded  on  the  other. 

From  the  point  where  the  tide  ceased,  open  fern  prairies  commence,  which  are  dotted  along  at 
intervals  for  some  miles.  They  vary  from  thirty  to  one  hundred  acres  in  extent,  except  the  lower 
one,  which  is  one  and  a  half  mile  long ;  the  rest  is  vine-maple  bottom,  very  level,  and  with  a 
deep,  rich  soil  of  clayey  character.  The  maple  growth  is  exceedingly  dense  and  tangled,  so 
much  so  that  passage  through  it  is  next  to  impossible.  Some  heavy  timber  of  spruce  and  arbor 
vitae  is  scattered  through  the  bottom,  but  not  in  sufficient  quantities  to  render  clearing  difficult 
compared  with  most  land  in  the  country. 

The  general  impression  obtained  is,  that  the  bottom,  above  the  reach  of  the  tides,  embraces  a 
tract  of  twenty  by  ten  miles.  But  little  of  this  is  overflowed,  and  that  only  on  the  margin  of  the 
streams.  It  is  well  watered.  There  are  no  continuous  hills  in  this  valley,  but  occasional  spurs, 
thickly  w^ooded,  from  the  tops  of  which  we  made  what  examination  of  the  country  was  possible. 
From  the  point  of  our  return  the  range  of  hills  separating  the  south  fork  of  the  Chihalis  from  the 
Willopah  appeared  to  be  about  fifteen  miles  from  us  in  an  easterly  direction,  bending,  however, 
on  our  right,  considerably  west  of  south,  and  uniting  with  those  between  the  latter  and  the 
Columbia,  where  there  is  apparently  a  gap. 

The  only  obstacle  to  a  good  road  connecting  the  bay  with  the  Cowlitz  trail,  is  evidently  this 
range  of  hills ;  and  from  the  information  we  received  from  the  Indians,  as  well  as  our  own  obser- 


COUNTRY  UPON  SHOALWATER  BAY  AND  PUGET  SOUND.  467 

vations,  it  would  not  be  a  serious  one.  After  crossing  the  hills  it  would  run  almost  entirely 
through  prairie.  A  good  stock  trail,  exclusive  of  bridges,  could  be  cut  through  such  a  country 
for  about  $15  per  mile;  a  wagon  road  complete  would  cost  $50.  Several  of  our  crossings  could 
be  avoided  by  keeping  a  little  farther  from  the  river,  and  points  could  be  selected  for  bridges 
beyond  the  influence  of  the  freshets.  It  is  more  than  probable  that  another  route  would  be  found, 
on  exploration,  to  connect  by  the  northern  fork  of  the  Willopah  with  the  Satchall,  which  would 
still  further  shorten  the  communication  with  Olympia.  Of  this,  however,  we  had  no  means  of 
satisfying  ourselves  at  the  time. 

The  proper  season  for  an  exploration  of  this  district  is  at  some  time  during  the  winter,  when 
not  much  rain  is  expected.  The  Indians  recommend  February.  During  the  months  when  the 
maples  are  in  leaf,  it  is  impossible  to  see  even  a  few  yards  in  advance.  The  best  course  would 
be  for  a  party  of  five,  packing  provisions  on  a  horse,  to  cut  the  trail  as  they  go.  They  can  in  this 
way  proceed  almost  as  rapidly,  and  with  less  fatigue  than  they  could  carrying  provisions,  tools, 
and  blankets,  themselves.  The  amount  of  open  prairie  is  not  sufficient  in  this  valley  to  afford  a 
stock  range,  but  there  is  enough  for  a  considerable  number  of  good  farms.  The  salt  marshes, 
too,  are  available  except  during  the  highest  tides  of  winter.  But  for  cultivation,  there  are  very 
few  single  tracts  in  the  Territory  of  equal  extent,  and  of  as  good  quality. 

Another  route  of  communication,  concerning  which  I  was  instructed  to  make  inquiry,  was  one 
from  some  point  near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  to  Olyrnpia,  more  direct  than  that  by  the 
Cowlitz. 

One  route  which  appears  probable  is  by  way  of  Gray's  river,  a  large  stream  running  into 
Gray's  bay,  opposite  to  and  a  little  above  Astoria.  No  attempt  has  been  made  to  push  through 
an  examination  of  this,  as  no  one  has  been  sufficiently  interested  to  do  it ;  but  from  the  descrip 
tions  of  persons  who  have  been  there  to  cut  timber,  it  appears  to  have  a  valley  much  resembling 
that  of  the  Willopah,  though  narrower,  the  soil  black  and  rich,  and  the  ground  covered  with  alder 
and  vine-maple.  Should  this  prove  practicable,  as  there  is  every  reason  to  believe,  a  road  would 
not  only  open  up  to  settlement  a  tract  of  valuable  country,  but  much  shorten  the  distance 
between  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  and  the  Sound.  The  tide  is  said  to  extend  up  the  river 
about  twenty  miles,  to  a  fall  of  some  twelve  feet  in  height.  There  is  a  bar  at  the  mouth  of 
Gray's  river,  but  the  water  inside  is  sufficient  for  large  boats.  Another  route,  in  some  respects 
preferable,  is  by  way  of  the  Elokamin,  a  stream  emptying  into  the  Columbia  just  below  Cath- 
lamet,  about  twenty-five  miles  above  Astoria.  This  heads  with  the  south  fork  of  the  Chihalis, 
and  in  the  opinion  of  Judge  Strong,  of  Cathlamet,  is  perfectly  practicable.  It  would  have  this 
advantage  over  the  Gray's  river  route,  that  its  terminus  would  be  at  a  regular  landing  place  of 
the  river  steamers,  and  accessible  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

The  practicability  of  a  good  wagon  trail  from  the  Willopah  to  the  Covvlitz,  is  sufficiently  estab 
lished.  Its  western  terminus  might  be  at  Woodward's,  about  thirteen  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  to  which  point  small  steamboats  could  run  at  all  seasons ;  and  in  surveying  it,  it  would, 
perhaps,  be  best  to  make  that  the  starting  point.  In  laying  out  a  road  to  the  Columbia  it  would 
be  preferable  to  begin  from  the  head  of  the  Chihalis,  and  be  governed  as  to  the  terminus  by  the 
nature  of  the  country.  The  importance  of  both  these  roads  is  almost  too  obvious  to  require 
comment. 

Shoalwater  bay  has  now  no  communication  with  the  other  parts  of  the  Territory,  except  by 
the  Columbia  river  or  by  the  Chihalis;  both  of  which  routes  are  circuitous,  and,  during  the  rainy 
season  especially,  very  inconvenient  and  exposed  to  serious  delays.  As  the  seat  of  government 
will  probably  be  at  some  point  on  Puget  sound,  it  is  essential  that  a  connexion  between  them 
should  be  established,  practicable  at  all  seasons,  within  a  reasonable  time.  And  in  a  military 
point  of  view,  no  less  is  it  essential  that  so  accessible  a  harbor  should  not  remain  without  com 
munication  with  the  interior. 

The  direct  land  communication  between  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  and  the  Chihalis  country 


468  COUNTRY    UPON    SIIOALWATER   BAY    AND    PUGET    SOUND. 

would  be  of  immense  advantage  to  both  in  opening  up  settlements,  and  greatly  shorten  the  mail 
communication  between  Astoria  and  the'Sound.  From  the  Cowliz  bottom  to  Cathlamet  there  is 
no  practicable  starting  point  for  such  a  route,  a  heavy  range  of  hills  bordering  the  river  the  whole 
distance  and  extending  back  for  some  miles.  The  road  must,  therefore,  necessarily  terminate 
at  some  point  below  the  latter  place. 

The  course  of  the  Chihalis  river  is  so  remarkable  as  to  deserve  a  particular  notice  in  reference 
to  this  part  of  the  country.  Heading  about  fifteen  miles  north  of  the  Columbia,  at  Cathlamet,  it 
runs  nearly  parallel  with,  but  in  an  opposite  direction  to,  the  Cowlitz,  and  between  that  river  and 
the  heads  of  those  entering  the  bay,  which  it  completely  encircles.  After  receiving  the  Nawaukum 
and  the  Skookum  Chuck,  two  bold  streams  rising  in  the  Cascade  mountains,  it  bends  to  the 
westward,  and  empties  finally  into  Gray's  harbor.  Much  of  the  country  upon  its  borders  is  open 
prairie,  and  that  portion  lying  between  the  Bois-fort  and  Mound  prairies  forms  a  part  of  the  great 
level  between  the  Columbia  bottom  and  Puget  sound.  A  range  of  hills  separates  it  from  the 
Willopah,  but  between  it  and  the  Cowlitz  the  divide  is  almost  imperceptible.  From  the  Skookum 
Chuck  down,  the  prairies  continue  here  and  there,  the  lower  ones  being  rather  less  gravelly  than 
that  known  as  the  Mound  prairie. 

About  eighteen  miles  from  the  Skookum  Chuck  it  receives  a  creek  from  the  northward,  called 
the  Satchall,  heading  in  a  small  lake,  and  thirty  miles  below  that  a  larger  one,  the  Satsop.  Both 
of  these  interlock  with  the  Skokornish,  running  into  Hammersly's  inlet;  or,  as  it  is  called  here, 
Skookum  bay.  The  Indians  speak  of  numerous  prairies  as  lying  around  the  heads  of  those 
streams.  A  horse  trail,  used  by  them,  leads  from  the  Satsop  across  to  the  inlet. 

Two  other  considerable  branches,  both  likewise  from  the  north  side,  enter  farther  down  the 
Wynoochee  and  Whiskkah,  and  a  still  larger  one  falls  into  Gray's  harbor,  on  which,  according 
to  them,  there  is  fine  prairie  country  and  many  horses. 

The  whole  country  north  of  the  Chihalis  is  known  only  by  Indian  report. 

About  twenty- five  miles  above  it  lies  the  Quiriaitl.  This  stream  also,  according  to  common 
accounts,  interlocks  with  the  waters  of  Hammersly's  inlet.  It  has  no  entrance  for  vessels  at  its 
mouth,  and  is  of  inconsiderable  size,  but  the  country  between  it  and  the  former  contains  large 
open  prairies. 

On  reaching  Olympia,  in  the  beginning  of  January,  I  was  directed  to  proceed  through  the 
Sound,  for  the  purpose  of  making  inquiries  relative  to  the  Indian  tribes.  The  journey  being 
performed  by  water,  and  the  weather  very  inclement,  no  opportunity  occurred  for  exploring  the 
interior  ;  but  some  information  was  nevertheless  collected  incidentally.  The  country  at  the  head 
of  the  Sound  is  pretty  well  known,  but  only  a  few  persons  have  penetrated  that  farther  to  the 
northward.  The  whole  forms  a  basin,  enclosed  between  the  Cascade  and  the  Coast  chains,  and 
is  of  itself  apparently  but  a  portion  of  one  more  extended,  stretching  from  the  Columbia  river  far 
to  the  north,  of  which  the  mountains  of  Vancouver's  and  Queen  Charlotte's  islands  are  part  of  the 
exterior  wall.  A  glance  at  the  map  presents  in  the  inlets  which  pierce  the  main  land  opposite 
those  islands,  the  same  geological  features  that  exist  upon  the  Sound.  The  mountains  of  the 
Olympian  range  evidently,  at  one  time,  formed  but  another  island.  The  prairies  lying  upon  the 
Cowlitz  and  the  Chihalis  were  elevated  at  the  same  time  with  the  present  shores  of  those  arms 
of  the  sea,  and  probably  intersected  by  similar  canals.  The  wash  of  the  mountains  has  filled 
these  up,  just  as  the  same  process  of  deposition  has  shoaled  the  heads  of  existing  inlets,  and 
created  the  extensive  marshes  and  flats  tying  between  Whidby's  island  and  the  main. 

The  general  face  of  the  country  upon  the  Sound  is  that  of  a  slightly  rolling  plateau,  the  eleva 
tion  of  which  is  from  one  hundred  to  three  hundred  feet,  rising,  however,  as  it  approaches  the 
foot  ol  the  mountains.  The  banks  are  usually  bluff,  formed  of  sand,  gravel,  and  boulders,  with 
a  slight  admixture  of  clay,  and  resting  on  a  substratum  of  stiff  blue  clay.  Elsewhere  the  sand 
is  replaced  by  sandstone,  containing  lignite  and  coal.  The  soil  at  the  head  of  the  Sound  is  for 
the  most  part  gravelly,  a  character  which  it  takes  at  the  Skookum  Chuck  river,  and  retains  as  far 


COUNTRY  UPON  SHOALWATER  BAY  AND  PUGET  SOUND.  469 

as  the  Puyallup.  Lower  down  it  is  clay,  of  a  light  grayish  color.  The  gravelly  lands  bear 
pretty  good  grass,  but  on  being  broken  up  the  mould  leaches  through. 

It  is  on  these  gravelly  prairies  lying  between  Olympia  and  the  Skookum  Chuck  that  the  mounds 
occur  mentioned  by  Captain  Wilkes,  and  which  he  ascribes  to  an  artificial  origin.  Without 
commenting  upon  the  improbabiKty  of  any  savage  race  covering  with  these  monuments  so  exten 
sive  a  tract  of  country,  it  may  be  proper  to  mention  that,  after  a  very  careful  examination,  I  have 
failed  to  discover  any  regularity  in  their  arrangement,  as  he  imagined,  and  that  the  supposed 
pavement  appears  to  consist  merely  of  the  larger  stones  left  by  water-courses.  It  is,  indeed, 
difficult  to  account  for  the  occurrence,  over  so  large  a  tract  of  country,  of  mounds  iso  uniform 
in  shape  and  size,  and  so  equally  distributed;  but  the  same  appearance  upon  a  smaller  scale  is 
noticeable  elsewhere,  and  the  explanation  I  believe  to  be  the  protection  afforded  by  scattered 
bushes,  roots,  or  grass  to  the  particular  spots  constituting  their  summits,  while  the  adjacent  ground 
has  gradually  been  washed  away.  In  a  soil  so  loose  and  easily  abraded  as  these  prairies,  such 
an  effect  is  not  unusual;  and  I  have  seen  the  process  going  on  with  individual  mounds.  A 
plant  fully  capable  of  producing  the  result  is  the  wild  cucumber  vine,  whose  root,  sometimes 
reaching  the  size  of  a  flour-barrel,  would  constitute  no  small  nucleus  of  itself.  Much  of  them  is 
prairie,  partially  wooded  with  oak.  As  farming  lands,  they  are  inferior.  The  clay  lands  are 
esteemed  excellent  for  wheat,  but  some  time  must  elapse  before  they  are  extensively  cleared. 
The  width  of  the  plateau,  from  the  Sound  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains  at  JNisqually,  is  estimated 
at  thirty  miles;  to  the  northward  it  becomes  much  narrower.  The  peninsula  between  Hood's 
canal  and  Admiralty  inlet,  and  Whidby's  island,  partake  of  this  general  character. 

The  Cascade  mountains  north  of  Mount  Rainier  present,  from  the  Sound,  the  same  difference 
from  the  southern,  in  the  character  of  the  scenery,  as  that  noticed  on  the  eastern  side,  arising 
from  a  difference  in  geological  character.  Seen  from  the  lower  end  of  Whidby's  island,  the  more 
distant  range  is  a  bare  and  ragged  sierra,  some  of  the  peaks  of  which  rise  to  the  limits  of  per 
petual  snow.  Mount  Baker,  which  terminates  the  view,  has  a  sharp  and  precipitous  outline, 
more  resembling  that  of  Mount  Hood  than  the  regular  forms  of  Rainier,  St.  Helens,  and  Adams. 
The  fact  of  an  interior  mountain  basin,  inferred  during  the  examination  of  the  country  on  the 
Okinakane,  seems  to  be  confirmed.  Into  this  there  appears  to  be  a  wide  entrance  through  the 
gap  of  the  Samish  river.  Mount  Baker,  it  should  be  mentioned,  has,  during  this  winter,  been 
in  action,  throwing  out  light  clouds  of  smoke.  The  last  eruption  of  any  note  is  said  to  have 
been  in  1843,  when  a  slight  shock  of  an  earthquake  was  felt  at  Fort  Langley. 

As  regards  the  western  side  of  the  Sound,  the  best  information  attainable  is  as  follows: 

That  there  is  a  valley  lying  to  the  west  of  Hood's  canal,  there  seems  to  be  no  doubt;  and  the 
existence  within  it  of  prairie  country  and  small  lakes  is  reported,  but  no  persons  now  living  on 
the  Sound  have  visited  it.  A  high  range  of  hills  extends  along  the  western  edge  of  the  canal  as 
far  as  the  head  of  Quul-seet  or  Colseed  inlet,  where  it  appears  to  drop  off  It  closely  approaches 
the  water,  and,  as  is  said,  leaves  no  passage  for  a  road  between.  Beyond  this  range  is  another 
higher  one,  which  is  believed  to  extend  as  far  north  as  near  the  head  of  Port  Discovery,  and 
thence  follow  the  Straits  of  Fuca  towards  Cape  Flattery.  Still  farther  west  is  the  main  Olympian 
range,  which  meets  it  at  that  point.  Between  the  first  and  second  ranges  there  would  seem  to 
be  a  continuous  valley,  extending  from  the  Chihalis  to  Port  Townsend,  and  drained  at  its  south 
ern  extremity  by  a  branch  of  the  Skokomish,  which  runs  into  Hood's  canal.  Between  the  sec 
ond  and  third,  if  the  description  is  correct,  there  must  also  be  a  basin,  probably  a  mountainous 
and  broken  one,  drained  at  its  southern  extremity  by  a  branch  of  the  Quinaitl,  and  at  its  northern, 
perhaps,  by  the  Elk-whah,  which  runs  into  the  Straits  of  Fuca.  Vague  Indian  rumor  men- 
lions  a  large  lake  in  this  basin.  It  seems  highly  probable  that  a  good  route  could  be  found  by  the 
valley  first  mentioned  from  Olympia  lo  Port  Townsend.  As  seen  from  either  end  the  gap  is  ap 
parently  continuous.  No  obstruction  exists  to  roads  from  Port  Ludlovv,  at  the  head  of  Hood's 
canal,  to  Port  Townsend,  and  thence  along  the  straits,  except  the  timber;  and  an  old  Indian  trail 


470  COUNTRY   UPON    SHOAL  WATER    BAT    AND   PUGET    SOUND. 

is  reported  to  exist  from  Suquamish  harbor  to  Port  Townsend.  The  country  in  the  peninsula 
between  the  canal  and  Admiralty  inlet  being  of  a  general  level,  Olympia  can  readily  be  connected 
with  Port  Gamble. 

The  mountains  lying  between  Hood's  canal  and  the  ocean,  to  the  whole  of  which  the  name 
of  Olympic  range  has  been  given,  are  of  perhaps  greater  average  height  than  the  Cascades, 
excluding  the  Snow  Peaks.  Some  of  them  rise  into  the  snow  limit,  as  the  principal  point  called 
Mount  Olympus,  the  height  of  which  Captain  Wilkes  gives  as  8,138  feet.  This,  however,  is  not 
like  the  Snow  Peaks  of  the  Cascades,  distinct  and  alone  above  the  rest,  but  is  hardly  distinguish 
able  from  the  mass  of  mountains  around;  nor  does  it  present  the  appearance  of  having  formerly 
been,  like  them,  a  volcano. 

A  geographical  survey  of  this  part  of  the  country  is  very  much  to  be  desired,  with  a  view  of 
developing  its  agricultural  resources  as  well  as  its  topography.  The  emigrant  has  no  time  or 
means  to  conduct  explorations,  nor  does  he  often  know  in  what  direction  to  extend  them.  He 
luns  considerable  risk,  too,  in  venturing  alone,  or  with  but  one  or  two  companions,  among  the 
coast  tribes,  and  his  information  when  obtained  is  generally  confined  to  himself.  A  survey  could 
be  conducted  with  most  advantage  by  a  party  of  about  ten,  whose  labor  would  be  chiefly  per 
formed  on  foot,  or  with  an  occasional  resort  to  canoes.  The  principal  streams  entering  these 
waters  from  the  east,  commencing  at  this  point,  are  the  following:  the  Stehchass,  commonly 
called  the  Chutes  or  Falls  river,  a  bold  stream  which  rises  in  the  lower  hills  of  the  Cascades, 
and  empties  into  the  head  of  Budd's  inlet  at  Olympia,  near  which  town  there  are  falls  afford 
ing  fine  water-power. 

The  Nisqually,  a  somewhat  larger  river,  rises,  as  is  supposed,  in  the  range  between  Mount 
Rainier  and  St.  Helens,  and  empties  into  Puget  sound  proper,  or  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
main  inlet,  and  a  little  above  the  fort. 

The  Puyallup,  believed  by  Dr.  Tolmie,  the  chief  factor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at  Nis 
qually,  to  head  on  the  south  side  of  Mount  Rainier,  and  empty  into  Commencement  bay. 

The  D'Wamish  enters  Elliott  bay  above  the  town  of  Seattle.  It  has  two  principal  forks — the 
main,  or  southern,  called  by  the  Indians,  at  different  points  in  its  course,  St'Kamish  and  Smalh-ko, 
and  by  the  settlers  White  river,  from  the  color  of  its  waters ;  and  the  northern,  called  Green 
river.  The  first  rises  on  the  eastern  side  of  Mount  Rainier,  and  turns  northward  around  it,  re 
ceiving  the  waters  of  the  latter,  which  heads  with  the  Nahchess,  and  flows  nearly  west.  Mount 
Rainier,  it  should  be  observed,  stands  on  the  western  verge  of  the  Cascade  range.  The  emigrant 
road  located  the  last  summer,  after  ascending  the  north  fork  of  the  Nahchess  to  its  source,  crosses 
the  summit  to  Green  river,  which  it  descends  to  its  mouth,  and  then  follows  White  river  to  the 
plains,  where  it  leaves  it,  crossing  the  Puyallup  and  running  to  Steilacoom.  Both  these  streams, 
as  well  as  the  Nisqually,  run  in  very  deep  bottoms,  cut  through  the  clay  and  gravel  of  the  plains} 
and  with  steep  bluffs  on  either  side.  A  remarkable  circumstance  connected  with  the  D'Wamish 
is,  that  at  the  western  termination  of  these  bluffs  a  large  body  of  water  breaks  from  it,  through  a 
tract  of  low  country,  and  enters  the  Puyallup  near  its  mouth.  This  canal,  called  by  the  Indians 
"Stuck,"  is  about  twenty  yards  wide,  deep  and  rapid. 

The  D'Wamish  river  receives  another  tributary  about  thirteen  miles  from  its  mouth,  in  the  out 
let  to  a  lake  said  to  be  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  six  in  its  greatest  width.  This  lake 
approaches  to  within  a  mile  and  two-thirds  of  the  bay,  near  the  town  of  Seattle,  and,  as  is  sup 
posed,  eight  miles  of  the  Snohomish  river,  and  has  a  general  course  nearly  parallel  with  the 
Sound.  An  Indian  trail  leads  from  it  to  the  Snoqualme  falls,  passing  another  small  lake  in  its 
route.  The  outlet  of  D'Wamish  lake  is  about  four  miles  in  length,  and  affords  an  excellent 
water-power,  which  has  been  improved  in  the  erection  of  a  saw-mill.  Upon  this  outlet  a  bed  of 
coal  has  been  opened,  which  will  be  referred  to  hereafter. 

The  tide  extends  up  the  D'Wamish  to  the  moulh  of  the  lake  fork,  sufficiently  to  check  the 
current  in  the  flood  at  ordinary  stages.  The  width  of  the  stream  is  about  one  hundred  yards, 


COUNTRY   UPON    SHOALWATER    BAY    AND    PUGET    SOUND.  471 

as  an  average.  The  immediate  banks  are  generally  low,  skirted  with  willow,  alder,  and  vine- 
maple,  and  a  few  cotton-woods  and  white  maple,  of  large  size,  intermixed.  Back  from  the 
stream  the  timber  is  fir,  spruce,  and  cedar,  the  last  becoming  more  prevalent  in  receding  from 
the  salt  water.  The  soil  is  unquestionably  good,  but  the  extent  of  the  bottom  could  not  be  ascer 
tained  from  the  river.  It  is  said  to  be  considerable.  Claims  are  being  rapidly  taken  up  along 
its  margin,  and  it  promises  to  become  one  of  the  most  important  districts  on  the  Sound.  The 
Indians  report  numerous  small  prairies  of  good  land  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  between 
the  heads  of  this  and  the  adjacent  rivers. 

The  Sinahomish,  which  is  next  north  of  the  D'Wamish,  empties  at  Port  Gardner,  opposite  the 
upper  end  of  Whidby's  island.  Of  its  several  forks,  the  southern  or  Snoqualme  heads  in  the 
Cascades,  a  short  distance  north  of  the  main  Yakima  Pass;  another,  the  Skywhamish,  probably 
interlocking  with  the  sources  of  Chelann  lake,  and  the  Winatshapam.  A  more  particular  de 
scription  is  unnecessary  here,  as  it  already  enters  into  another  report  of  the  expedition. 

Beyond  the  Sinahomish  very  little  is  known  of  the  rivers  beyond  a  few  miles  from  their  mouths, 
except  what  has  been  learned  from  Indians.  The  next  in  order — the  Stoluckwamish,  or,  as  it  is 
more  commonly  called,  Steilaquamish — empties  into  the  shallow  sound  above  Port  Susan,  and 
opposite  the  head  of  McDonough's  island.  It  has  two  main  forks,  one  of  which  approaches  so 
near  the  Skywhamish  that  the  Indians  carry  their  canoes  across.  Below  this  is  the  Skagit,  of 
which  the  Kikiallis  is  only  one  mouth.  It  is  a  considerable  stream,  and,  as  is  ascertained,  heads 
in  the  main  range  of  the  Cascades,  cutting  through  that  which  follows  more  nearly  the  coast 
of  the  Sound,  and  empties  opposite  the  northern  or  lower  end  of  Whidby's  island.  Beyond  this 
are  the  Sina-ah-mish,  opposite  Perry's  island,  and  the  Sa-mish,  nearly  opposite  Hornet's  harbor. 

A  considerable  stream,  the  outlet  of  a  lake,  falls  into  Bellingham  bay.  This,  which  is  called 
Whatcom  lake,  is  said  by  Mr.  Kelly,  a  citizen  who  explored  it,  to  be  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
miles  in  length,  lying  northeast  and  southwest,  and  is  very  deep.  Two  streams,  of  no  great  size, 
enter  it.  Its  level  is  supposed  to  be  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  bay,  and  there  are 
numerous  falls  in  the  outlet,  the  highest  about  thirty  feet.  Its  mouth  affords  a  very  fine  water- 
power,  on  which  a  saw-mill  has  been  erected.  The  lake  is  bounded  on  the  east  and  west  by 
high  hills,  but  a  valley  extends  northward  towards  the  Nooksahk  and  Frazer's  river,  and  but  a 
low  divide  separates  it  from  the  Samish  on  the  south. 

The  Lummi  river  falls  into  the  northern  end  of  Bellingham  bay.  Of  this  the  main  branch, 
called  the  Nooksahk,  is  said  to  head  east  and  south  of  Mount  Baker,  and  almost  to  encircle  it. 
Dr.  R.  M.  Bigelow,  of  Seattle,  informs  me  that  he  ascended  this  river  to  a  considerable  distance, 
and  that  it  is  a  deep  and  rapid  stream,  about  double  the  size  of  the  D'Wamish.  There  is  a  delta 
of  low  land  where  it  and  the  Lummi  unite. 

It  appears  from  a  sketch  of  the  country  between  the  Okinakane  lake  and  Frazer's  river,  ob 
tained  from  Mr.  Alexander  C.  Anderson,  formerly  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  since  the 
construction  of  the  survey  map,  that  this  river  heads  with  the  Mila-kite  kwu  branch  of  the  Okin 
akane,  in  the  main  divide  of  the  Cascades.  Mr.  Anderson  was  the  first  to  explore  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  trail  from  the  Okinakane  to  Fort  Langley,  and  he  crossed  from  that  branch  on 
to  the  Nooksahk,  and  thence  over  to  a  southerly  branch  of  Frazer's  river.  I  have  already  for 
warded  his  map,  which  will  add  much  to  the  geography  of  the  northern  part  of  the  Cascade 
mountains,  and  which  it  is  to  be  regretted  was  not  sooner  received.  Another  stream,  the  entrance 
of  which  is  said  to  be  accessible  to  vessels,  enters  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  above  Birch  bay.  It  can 
not  be  of  great  lengih,  as  it  is  cut  off  by  others  from  the  mountains. 

None  of  these  rivers,  it  would  appear,  run  directly  from  the  mountains  towards  the  Sound  ; 
but  in  every  instance,  so  far  as  kno\vn,  from  northeast  to  southwest,  forming  oblique  valleys, 
much  longer  and  with  a  more  gradual  descent  than  would  otherwise  have  been  the  case  ;  while 
those  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  range  run  from  northwest  to  southeast.  Most  of  them  bring 
down  considerable  bodies  of  water  throughout  the  year,  and  all,  as  may  be  supposed,  swell  greatly 


472  COUNTRY   UPON    SHOALWATER    BAY   AND   PCGET    SOUND. 

during  heavy  rains,  or  the  melting  of  snow  in  the  Cascades.  Their  course  is  rapid,  and  none  of 
them  can  be  considered  as  navigable  even  for  short  distances,  though  vessels  can  enter  some  of 
the  larger.  They  all  have  deltas  of  low  land  at  their  mouths,  and  generally  several  channels. 

As  it  was  a  matter  of  importance  to  ascertain  the  most  practicable  routes  for  interior  land 
travel  from  Olympia  to  Bellingham  bay  and  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  such  inquiries  were  made  of 
settlers  and  Indians  as  occasion  permitted.  As  regards  the  country  on  the  upper  part  of  the 
Sound,  no  difficulty  whatever  occurs.  The  only  question  respecting  the  eastern  side  is  the  exten 
sion  of  a  road  northward  from  the  emigrant  trail. 

It  appears  that  a  depression  in  the  countr}7  exists  for  at  least  a  portion  of  the  distance  near  the 
western  base  of  the  Cascade  range,  and  parallel  with  it,  constituting  a  lateral  valley,  crossing 
the  smaller  tributaries  at  a  right-angle;  and  it  is  probable  that  this  will  be  found  to  afford  a  route. 
The  Indians  state  that  they  have  a  short  portage  for  their  canoes  from  the  Skywhamish,  a  branch 
of  the  Sinabomish,  across  to  the  south  fork  of  the  Stoluckwamish,  and  another  from  the  north 
fork  of  the  latter  to  the  Sah-kee-me-hu  branch  of  the  Skagit.  No  information  was  obtained  of  the 
country  between  the  Skagit  and  the  Samish;  but  so  far  as  the  apparent  disposition  of  the  mount 
ains  is  visible  from  the  water,  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  same  depression  continues  north 
ward,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  from  the  Samish  river,  by  way  of  Whatcom  lake,  and  crossing 
the  Nooksahk,  a  good  trail  can  be  carried  to  Frazer's  river.  It  is  even  said  that  the  Indians  have 
taken  horses  through  the  whole  distance. 

The  country  north  of  Bellingham  bay  appears  to  be  level  as  far  as  the  range  beyond  the  stream. 

I  visited  the  coal-beds  on  the  D'Wamish  and  at  Bellingham  bay,  but  had  no  time  for  making 
more  than  a  very  superficial  examination.  That  on  the  outlet  of  D'Wamish  lake  is  situated 
immediately  upon  the  water,  a  few  rods  below  Tobin  &  Co.'s  mills,  and  about  a  mile  from  the 
lake.  The  outcrop  is  exposed  to  the  eastward  or  river  side,  and  dips  to  the  water  at  an  angle  of 
about  15°,  being  broken  off  towards  the  north  by  a  fault.  The  total  depth  of  the  bed,  including 
shale,  is  13  feet,  with  6£  feet  of  workable  coal,  divided  by  a  thin  seam  of  fire-clay.  The  drift 
had  been  carried  in  only  about  75  feet.  The  coal  appears  to  be  of  good  quality,  and  to  burn 
well  with  a  strong  flame,  leaving  no  slag.  It  is  considerably  laminated,  and  has  a  tolerably 
bright  fracture.  The  indications  are  said  to  continue  westward  for  a  considerable  distance. 
Another  bed  has  been  discovered  lower  down,  on  the  main  D'Wamish,  at  Stevenson's  claim.  It 
is  intended  to  transport  this  coal  in  scows  to  the  town  of  Seattle,  about  sixteen  miles  distant  by 
water. 

Two  beds  had  been  opened  at  Bellingham  bay,  and  the  coal  was  visible  in  the  immediate 
bank  for  a  long  distance.  The  beds  are  from  2  to  1C  feet  thick,  and  dip  to  the  north  at  angles 
ranging  from  19  to  37  degrees.  The  overlying  rock  is  a  light-colored  yellowish  sandstone,  con 
taining  pebbles  and  concretions  of  clay.  No  associated  fossils  were  seen.  The  shales  are  very 
thin  as  far  as  noticed,  and  limestones  entirely  wanting.  Some  of  the  outcrops  of  coal  appear  to 
be  at  the  edge  of  faults,  but  the  thickness  of  the  formation  itself  was  not  examined.  The  seam 
which  had  been  most  worked — that  known  as  the  Ma-moosie  mine — was  altogether  eight  feet 
through,  but  divided  by  three  feet  of  clay  and  slate,  leaving  only  an  equal  amount  of  workable 
coal.  A  drift  had  been  carried  in  about  175  feet,  the  quality  improving  somewhat.  The  supe 
rior  seams  at  this  place  did  not  appear  to  be  worth  working.  About  150  tons  only  had  been  got 
out,  which  was  mostly  on  board  a  vessel  bound  to  San  Francisco. 

Another  bed,  a  little  to  the  north  of  this,  belonging  to  Capt.  Fauntleroy  and  others,  presented 
much  better  indications.  Its  thickness  is  sixteen  feet  four  inches,  and  the  coal  brighter  and  freer 
from  impurities  than  the  other.  A  small  quantity  got  out  here  sold  in  San  Francisco  for  $23  per 
ton.  A  bed  of  nearly  equal  depth  is  said  also  to  have  been  since  found  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  bay.  Other  beds  have  been  found  on  Samish  bay,  and  Mr.  H.  A.  Goldsborough  saw  it 
upon  the  Stoluckwarnish  in  workable  seams,  but  not  accessible  to  water  transportation.  The 


GEOLOGY   OF    CENTRAL   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  473 

coal  at  Bellingham  bay  must  be  lightered  on  board  of  vessels,  the  water  being  shallow  to  a  con 
siderable  distance  from  the  shore. 

The  whole  of  this  formation  has  been  considered  by  geologists  as  tertiary,  and  the  coal  as  not 
belonging  to  the  true  coal.  Be  this  as  it  may,  its  value  for  economical  purposes  is  unquestionable. 
Even  that  on  the  Cowlitz  and  Skookum  Chuck,  though  inferior  to  the  product  of  the  D'Wamish 
and  Bellingham  bay  mines,  was  abandoned  only  from  its  not  being  accessible  to  tide- water. 

A  singular  circumstance  in  connexion  with  this  subject  has  been  noticed  at  the  southern  end  of 
Whidby's  island.  A  crevice  in  the  earth  exists  there  from  which  smoke  constantly  ascends, 
rising  undoubtedly  from  the  burning  of  a  bed  of  coal  or  lignite  beneath.  The  clay  around  its 
edge  is  said  to  be  baked  of  a  brick-red.  It  has  been  burning  since  the  settlement  of  the  country, 
and  is  popularly  called  a  volcano. 

No  scientific  exploration  whatever  has  been  made  of  this  region,  nor  even  such  an  examination 
of  particular  beds  as  to  justify  any  opinion  respecting  their  value.  Such  experiments  as  have 
been  tried  indicate,  that  for  steaming  purpose  the  quality  of  the  coal  is  very  good,  but  to  what 
extent  the  beds  can  be  worked  is  not  settled.  They  appear  on  the  edge  of  the  water,  most  of 
them  not  above  the  high  tides  of  winter,  and  it  would  seem  that  they  dip  slightly  in-shore,  as 
well  as  in  a  direction  parallel  to  it.  From  the  appearance  of  upturned  edges  of  sandstone, 
between  high  and  low-water  mark,  it  is  conjectured  that  the  coal  extends  beneath  the  surface  ot 
the  bay ;  and  that  to  the  north  of  it,  it  will  be  perhaps  found  in  place  and  in  the  natural  position 
of  the  strata.  The  formation  commences  at  the  Columbia  river,  where  lignite  or  brown  coal  is 
found  in  thin  seams,  and  extends  continuously  northward  to  a  great  distance,  the  quality  of  the 
coal  improving  in  that  direction.  The  most  northern  point,  it  is  believed,  where  any  discoveries 
have  been  made,  is  at  Beaver  harbor  or  Port  Rupert,  on  the  northern  extremity  of  Vancouver's 
island.  What  was  obtained  here  was  merely  surface  coal,  and  was  cut  out  by  Indians  with 
hatchets.  The  company  have  now  sunk  a  shaft  at  Nimo,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  island,  in 
latitude  49°  09',  longitude  123°  56',  whence  they  obtain  supplies  for  their  steamers.  The  Beaver 
harbor  locality  was  abandoned  as  too  inconvenient. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

GEORGE  GIBBS. 

Capt.  G.  B.  MCCLELLAN,  U.  8.  Corps  of  Engineers, 

Commanding  Western  Division  N.  P.  Railroad  Exp.  and  Survey. 


REPORT  OF    GEORGE    GIBBS    UPON  THE    GEOLOGY  OF    THE  CENTRAL  PORTION  OF    WASHINGTON  TER 
RITORY. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

May  1,  1854. 

SIR  :  Herewith  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  a  report  on  the  geological  structure  of  the  country 
lying  upon  the  route  of  the  expedition  under  your  command.  It  is  much  less  in  detail  than 
could  have  been  desired,  as  the  subject  itself  was  subsidiary  to  others,  and  the  observations  were 
necessarily  for  the  most  part  confined  to  general  features.  Specimens  of  soils  and  of  the  prevail 
ing  rocks  were  collected,  which  by  order  of  Gov.  Stevens,  will  be  turned  over  to  Dr.  John  Evans. 

The  country  around  Vancouver,  and  thence  back  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  is  gravelly  and 
poor,  except  that  on  some  of  the  small  streams  there  are  narrow  skirts  of  rich  black  soil.  The 
small  prairies  lying  near  the  branches  of  the  Cathlapoot'l  are,  however,  exceptions.  These 
appear  to  have  been  formerly  the  beds  of  lakes,  and  retain,  to  some  extent,  a  wet  and -marshy 
character,  the  soil  being  clay.  The  Columbia  bottom  below  Vancouver  is  of  a  fine,  sandy  loam. 
Much  of  that  on  the  immediate  banks  of  the  river  is  subject  to  overflow  during  the  freshets — a 
double  misfortune,  as  the  deposits  of  the  Columbia  are  not  fertilizing,  and  the  temperature  of  the 
60  / 


474  GEOLOGY    OF    CENTRAL    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

water  destroys  growing  crops.  Wheat  does  not  fill  after  being  submerged.  Behind  this  river- 
belt,  the  upland  is  well  watered  and  fertile.  The  gravelly  country  back  of  Vancouver  is  speedily 
exhausted,  two  crops  of  wheat  being  as  much  as  it  will  produce  to  advantage.  The  Indians  raise 
excellent  potatoes  on  the  Yahkohtl  and  Chalacha  prairies ;  and  wheat  would  undoubtedly  thrive 
there ;  but  they  are  subject  to  summer  frosts. 

The  timber  upon  the  lower  lands  of  the  Columbia  is  chiefly  cotton-wood;  on  the  smaller  streams, 
vine-maple  and  alder  ;  while  the  upland  is  covered  with  the  usual  growth  of  the  coast  region  of 
Oregon — fir,  spruce,  and,  towards  the  mountains,  arbor  vilrc.  This  forest  is  almost  entirely  of 
secondary  growth,  and  is  deadened  over  a  vast  tract  by  the  fires  which  run  through  the  country. 
The  fires  would  seem  to  add  but  little  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  as  the  trees  when  consumed  have 
hardly  any  ashes,  and  the  roots  burning  out  beneath  the  soil  destroys  all  vegetable  decomposition. 
The  succession  of  forest  which  so  universally  takes  place  in  the  Atlantic  States  does  not  occur 
here,  the  few  deciduous  trees  of  the  country  being  such  as  grow  only  upon  the  water- courses.  As 
a  consequence,  the  firs  almost  invariably  spring  up  again  when  burnt  off.  The  underbrush,  con 
sisting  of  hazel,  spiraea,  &c.,  is  usually  dense.  In  some  isolated  tracts  the  primitive  forest  remains* 
and  the  body  of  timber  is  heavy,  though  much  less  so  than  upon  the  Cascades  south  of  the 
Columbia. 

The  first  rock  in  place  encountered  after  leaving  Vancouver  was  near  the  Yahkohtl  fork  of  the 
Cathlapoct'l  river,  and  was  a  hard  and  dark-green  hornblende,  without  noticeable  strike  or  inclina 
tion  to  the  beds.  This  rock  forms  the  canon  of  the  stream  and  prevails  to  the  Cathlapoot'l  itself. 
Boulders  of  trachyte  accompanied  the  sand  and  gravel  in  the  Yahkohtl,  but  not  in  such  quantity 
or  variety  as  in  the  main  fork  which  heads  in  Mt.  St.  Helens.  The  divide  between  the  latter 
and  the  Columbia  is  about  1,800  feet  in  height,  presenting  a  steep  and  almost  precipitous  face  to 
the  north.  The  hornblende  rock  is  said  to  extend  down  the  Cathlapoot'l  to  within  a  few  miles  of 
its  mouth.  Sandstone  of  volcanic  origin  appeared  in  large  masses  on  the  borders  of  the  river,  and 
probably  occurs  in  place  at  no  great  distance.  The  boulders  in  its  bed  are  chiefly  trachyte  of 
different  shades,  and  basalt,  varying  from  scoriaceous  to  compact,  and  very  fine  grained.  There 
is  but  little  valley  on  its  upper  waters,  and  that  of  no  value,  as  the  soil  consists  almost  entirely 
of  the  detritus  of  these  rocks.  As  might  be  supposed  from  its  draining  the  southern  and  eastern 
slopes  of  Mt.  St.  Helens,  the  river  bears  evidence  of  its  great  volume  during  the  melting  of  the 
snows. 

On  the  north  bank  of  the  Cathlapoot'l,  and  about  four  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  JNoompt- 
namie,  we  crossed  a  field  of  lava  apparently  formed  by  a  stream  from  St.  Helens.  Its  surface 
was  everywhere  broken  into  mounds,  or  gigantic  bubbles,  produced  apparently  by  the  expansion 
of  contained  gases,  or  perhaps  the  moisture  of  the  soil  over  which  it  had  flowed.  These  mounds, 
which  were  generally  of  an  ovoid  shape,  varied  in  size  from  six  or  eight  feet  to  a  hundred  in 
length,  and  in  some  cases  rose  to  twenty  and  thirty  feet  in  height.  Their  tops  were  broken  into 
fissures,  the  principal  corresponding  with  the  longer  axis.  The  direction  of  this  was  not  uniform, 
but  in  the  larger  seemed  to  agree  with  what  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  course  of  the  current. 
The  edges  of  the  fissures  were  perfectly  sharp,  indicating  that  the  lava  had  at  least  partially 
cooled  before  fracture;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  quantities  of  loose  clinkers  lay  upon  the  sides  of 
the  mounds,  and  small  waves  produced  by  the  progression  of  the  lava  were  visible,  which  seemed 
to  diverge  from  them.  Flat  slabs,  resembling  flags,  two  or  three  feet  long  and  a  couple  of  inches 
thick,  also  occurred.  The  surface  was  vessicular,  the  inferior  portions  as  seen  through  the  fissures 
more  compact ;  its  depth  was  not  determined.  The  field  had  been  covered  with  forest,  which, 
like  much  of  that  on  the  route,  had  been  burnt  over.  Unfortunately,  time  did  not  admit  of  a 
visit  to  the  river  to  examine  the  termination  of  the  stream,  nor  yet  to  the  bluffs  on  the  left,  to 
ascertain  if  the  lava  underlaid  them.  These  bluffs,  extending  in  a  line  with  the  river  for  some 
distance,  were  in  places  three  or  four  hundred  feet  in  height,  composed  of  sand  and  boulders  of 
trachyte.  The  width  of  this  field  was  about  one-third  of  a  mile.  A  bed  of  fine  volcanic  ashes 


GEOLOGY    OF    CENTRAL    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  475 

covered  the  ground  for  some  hundred  yards  beyond  it,  and  pumice  was  occasionally  found  along 
the  route.     This  is  supposed  to  be  the  most  recent  lava  ejected  from  St.  Helens. 

Leaving  the  Cathlapoot'l,  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  Cascade  range.  The  eastern  side 
of  the  valley  rises  in  high  tables,  with  level  tops  and  steep  banks,  which  are  continued  to  the 
summit.  Unfortunately,  we  could  obtain  no  view  of  the  country,  the  smoke  from  the  burning 
timber,  which  had  prevailed  for  some  days,  effectually  obscuring  the  atmosphere.  The  rock  in 
place  was  a  gray  feldspathic  trap,  covered  on  the  surface  with  a  whitish  coating.  Large,  loose 
blocks  of  the  same  and  of  trachyte  were  scattered  around.  Basalt  prevails  upon  the  summit, 
and  forms  turrets  and  pinnacles  on  some  of  the  heights  around  St.  Helens  and  Mount  Adams. 
Elsewhere  the  hills  are  covered  with  reddish  scoria.  One  field  of  lava  was  passed,  fractured  in 
the  same  manner  as  that  on  the  Cathlapoot'l,  but  apparently  of  older  date,  and  assuming  columnar 
forms,  which  was  not  the  case  with  the  latter. 

The  height  of  Chequoss  where  the  party  encamped  from  the  8th  to  the  10th  of  August  was 
4,053  feet.  It  is  a  circular  basin,  containing  a  small  pond,  one  of  ,a  number  lying  at  the  head  of 
the  White  Salmon  river,  and  presenting  the  appearance  of  an  ancient  crater.  Notwithstanding 
its  elevation,  this  spot  is  tolerably  fertile ;  the  basin,  as  well  as  the  hills  around  it,  being  covered 
with  grass  and  producing  strawberries  in  profusion,  which  were  in  season  at  the  time  of  our  visit. 
The  soil  of  the  mountains  is  a  yellowish  loam,  except  where  colored  by  the  decomposition  of 
scoria.  The  character  of  the  forest  changes  entirely  with  the  summit  of  the  Cascades.  The 
details  of  this  change  belong  to  another  report,  but  it  is  proper  to  refer  to  it  in  connexion  with  the 
geological  face  of  the  country.  The  arbor  vitas  does  not  cross  the  dividing  ridge;  the  firs  and 
spruces  are  speedily  lost,  and  succeeded  at  first  by  intermixed  larches  and  pines,  and  lower 
down  by  the  pine  alone.  The  larch  seems  to  be  confined  altogether  to  the  eastern  side  of  the 
mountains,  and  the  long-leaved  pines  nearly  so.  The  limit  of  the  firs  on  the  eastern  slope  would 
seem  to  be  not  far  from  three  thousand  feet  above  the  Columbia.  The  forest  retains  a  consid 
erable  size  to  nearly  four  thousand  feet. 

During  our  stay  at  Chequoss  the  weather  was  only  at  intervals  clear  enough  to  afford  a  view 
of  the  mountains ;  with  the  exception  of  the  great  snow-peaks,  their  aspect  is  that  of  a  chaos  of 
hills,  of  very  equal  height,  rising  from  an  elevated  plateau,  but  few  points  rising  to  a  greater  eleva 
tion  than  5,000  feet,  which  is  about  that  of  the  snow-line  on  Mount  Adams.  No  ranges  of  any 
great  length  were  distinguish  able  ;  the  sides  of  the  hills  were  long,  sweeping  slopes,  enclosing  shal 
low  valleys  which  extend  to  the  very  feet  of  Mounts  St.  Helens  and  Adams,  and  some  of  which 
contain  marshy  prairies,  the  beds  of  ponds.  The  range  in  this  part  appears  to  be  about  thirty 
miles  in  width  at  the  base  and  fifteen  on  the  top,  the  steepest  slope  being  to  the  west.  From  the 
hills  around  Chequoss,  the  five  snow-peaks — Mounts  Hood,  Jefferson,  St.  Helens,  Adams,  and 
Rainier — were  visible,  Mounts  Hood  and  Jefferson  bearing  southwesterly ;  Mount  St.  Helens 
nearly  northwest ;  Mount  Rainier  a  little  west  of  north,  and  Mount  Adams  north.  The  latter  was 
riot  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  distant.  The  height  of  Mount  Rainier,  as  given  by  Cap 
tain  Wilkes,  is  12,330  feet,  and  that  of  St.  Helens  9,550  ;  from  which  last  Mount  Adams  does 
not  apparently  vary  much.  It  is  not  a  little  singular  that  neither  Lewis  and  Clark,  nor  Lieut. 
Wilkes,  distinguished  Mount  Adams  as  a  separate  peak  from  St.  Helens ;  for,  although  they 
resemble  each  other  considerably  in  general  form,  their  positions  and  range  are  very  different. 
Mount  Adams  alone  is  visible  from  the  Dalles ;  but  both  of  them,  as  well  as  Rainier,  can  be 
seen  from  a  slight  elevation  at  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette.  The  sketches  of  Lieut.  Duncan, 
accompanying  the  reports,  will  better  convey  an  idea  of  these  mountains  than  a  mere  verbal 
description.  The  angle  of  incidence  of  their  sides  was  taken  by  a  clinometer.  The  steepest 
continuous  face  of  St.  Helens,  disregarding  precipices,  was  about  40°,  and  none  of  the  others 
exhibit  a  greater  declivity.  The  crater  of  Mount  Hood  is  on  its  south  side  ;  that  of  Mount  St. 
Helens  on  the  northwest,  and  of  Mount  Adams  apparently  on  the  east;  that  of  Rainier  seems  to 
have  been  at  the  summit.  Smoke  was  distinctly  seen  issuing  from  St.  Helens  during  our  journey. 


476  GEOLOGY   OF    CENTRAL    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

This  and  Mount  Baker  are  the  only  volcanoes  at  present  active  in  the  chain.  Its  last  considera 
ble  eruption  was  in  1S42,  when  it  covered  the  country  as  far  as  Vancouver  and  the  Dalles  with 
ashes,  and  presented  a  luminous  appearance  after  the  smoke  had  cleared  off!  The  Indians  report 
that  there  were  once  three  mountains  that  smoked  always,  Mount  Hood  and  Mount  Adams  being 
the  others.  Respecting  Mounts  Hood  and  St.  Helens,  they  have  a  characteristic  tale  to  the  effect 
that  they  were  man  and  wife ;  that  they  finally  quarrelled  and  threw  fire  at  one  another,  and 
that  St.  Helens  was  the  victor  ;  since  when  Mount  Hood  has  been  afraid,  while  St.  Helens, 
having  a  stout  heart,  still  burns.  In  some  versions  this  story  is  connected  with  the  slide  which 
formed  the  Cascades  of  the  Columbia,  and  by  damming  up  the  water  inundated  the  iorest,  the 
remains  of  which  are  now  visible  along  its  margin.  The  date  of  this  event  Lewis  and  Clark 
fixed  at  about  thirty  years  belbre  their  arrival.  It  is  very  probable  that  it  may  have  been 
due  to  an  earthquake,  as  they,  though  not  frequent,  are  known  upon  the  coast.  The  Indians 
have  no  tradition  of  an  eruption  of  lava;  they  have  only  seen  smoke  and  ashes  come  out  of 
the  mountain.  They  add  that  a  bad  smell  came  from  it,  and  that  the  fish  in  the  streams  died. 
Around  the  foot  of  St.  Helens,  they  say,  the  ashes  lie  so  deep  and  soft  that  horses  cannot  travel. 
The  state  of  the  weather,  and  the  more  urgent  business  of  the  survey,  prevented  an  attempt  to 
ascend  either  of  the  mountains. 

The  descent  of  the  Cascade  range  to  the  east  is  far  more  gradual  than  on  the  western  side, 
and  the  slope  comparatively  uninterrupted.  About  four  miles  from  Chequoss,  and  probably 
seven  hundred  feet  below  it,  there  is  another  lava  field,  broken  up  into  mounds  like  the  two  for 
mer.  We  found  on  its  verge  a  small  lake  of  irregular  form,  and  occupying,  when  full,  about 
one  hundred  acres',  but  at  the  time  very  low.  It  is  sunk  a  few  feet  beneath  the  general  surface ; 
is  shallow,  and  the  water  clear  and  cold.  There  was  no  visible  outlet,  nor  any  motion  indi 
cating  a  sink,  though  it  received  three  brooks,  one  of  them  fifteen  feet  across.  At  the  lower  end 
large  piles  of  drift-wood,  including  trees  two  and  three  feet  in  diameter,  had  been  washed  on 
to  the  field  to  the  height  of  some  twenty 'feet  at  the  point  of  escape  during  freshets.  It  was 
somewhat  remarkable  that  this  pond  was  surrounded  by  gigantic  cotton-wood  trees,  though  the 
elevation  was  not  less  than  three  thousand  three  hundred  feet.  One  of  the  party,  who  had 
passed  through  the  woods  between  the  lake  and  Mount  Adams,  reported  that  the  lava  did  not 
extend  in  that  direction ;  but  whether  this  arose  from  its  being  overlaid  with  soil,  or  from 
having  some  other  source,  could  not  be  decided  without  further  examination.  The  country 
being  covered  with  burnt  forest  and  underbrush,  this  was  not  easy  to  make.  The  lake  itself 
was  evidently  not  the  crater  from  which  it  flowed.  Its  course  would  seem  to  have  been 
from  that  mountain  and  towards  the  Columbia  through  the  valley  of  the  White  Salmon,  as  a 
dividing  ridge  separates  it  from  the  Klikatat  river  to  the  east.  The  lava  here,  and  generally 
upon  the  eastern  slope  of  the  mountains,  appeared  much  older  than  that  upon  the  Cathlapoot'l, 
the  sharpness  of  fracture  being  lost,  and  the  surface  being  more  decomposed.  Leaving  the 
waters  of  the  White  Salmon  and  crossing  a  dividing  ridge,  the  trail  descended  to  the  Klikatat,  a 
larger  stream,  heading  on  the  east  side  of  Mount  Adams,  and,  like  the  last,  emptying  into  the 
Columbia  between  the  Dalles  and  the  Cascades.  Here  we  met  another  field  of  lava,  through 
which  ran  a  line  of  openings  caused  by  the  falling  in  of  the  rock  covering  a  vaulted  passage. 
Though  dry  at  the  time  of  our  journey,  this  is  evidently  during  the  winter  the  bed  of  a  torrent 
which  runs  towards  the  Klikatat.  Apparently  the  lava,  in  overflowing  the  original  bed,  had 
come  in  contact  with  sufficient  moisture  to  elevate  without  rupturing  it.  The  upper  stratum  was 
about  eighteen  inches  thick,  and  regularly  arched ;  its  semi-columnar  structure  giving  it  the 
appearance  of  keyed  joints.  The  lower  were  more  or  less  distorted,  and  varied  from  a  few 
inches  to  several  feet  in  thickness.  They  .differ  also  in  structure,  being  much  more  compact. 
All  of  them  exhibited  a  large  proportion  of  feldspar,  which  seems  to  be  the  characteristic  of 
those  streams  supposed  to  be  traceable  to  these  two  mountains;  as  distinguished  from  the  basalt 
of  the  plains.  The  roof  of  this  passage  was  broken  through  at  short  intervals,  and  large 


GEOLOGY   OP    CENTRAL   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  477 

masses  had  fallen  from  the  inferior  layers  of  what  remained,  showing  that  the  work  of  destruc 
tion  was  still  going  on.  The  bed  of  the  water-course  was  about  twenty-five  feet  beneath  the 
surface,  and  the  vaults  were  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet  wide,  and  fifteen  or  twenty  in  height. 
The  under  side  of  the  strata  occasionally  exhibited  fluxures,  resembling  waves  of  progression. 
Small  stalactites  of  infiltration  hung  from  the  roof  and  walls,  and  stalagmites  had  been  deposited 
on  the  floor.  This  remarkable  passage  was  traced  at  intervals  for  three  or  four  miles,  and 
probably  terminates  in  a  branch  of  the  Klikatat  river  crossed  by  the  party  the  next  day. 
The  Indian  guide  obtained  snow  from  some  cavity  in  this  field,  and  reported  that  there  was 
one  hole  into  which,  if  a  stone  was  dropped,  a  long  time  elapsed  before  it  was  heard  to  strike. 

The  soil  of  the  valley  which  we  descended  consisted  of  a  yellowish,  light  sandy  loam,  for  the 
most  part  thin,  and  lying  directly  upon  the  basalt.  Lower  down  the  mountain  it  became  deeper, 
and  on  the  banks  of  the  streams  showed  a  depth  of  six  or  eight  feet.  Below  the  limit  of  the  firs 
the  forest  was  open,  and  the  ground  covered  with  an  abundant  growth  of  excellent  grass,  forming 
a  good  stock-range  during  the  summer  season.  It  is  believed  that  wheat  would  flourish  here ; 
but  the  general  want  of  water,  except  on  the  streams,  and  the  coldness  of  the  climate,  will  probably 
prevent  its  occupation  except  for  grazing.  With  this  branch  of  the  Klikatat  river  a  further  change 
occurs  in  the  rock,  the  range  of  hills  lying  to  the  east  of  it  consisting  of  the  same  gray  trap 
noticed  in  the  ascent  from  the  Cathlapoot'l,  and,  it  would  seem,  bounding  the  efflux  from  the 
mountains  in  this  direction.  From  the  cursory  observations  of  this  journey,  it  is  inferred  that  the 
more  recent  lava  from  these  sources  is  confined  within  a  particular  basin,  separated  by  well- 
defined  boundaries  from  the  basalt  of  the  prairies,  from  which  it  differs  considerably  in  apparent 
structure,  and  probably  in  composition  also.  Should  a  thorough  geological  exploration  of  this 
region  be  hereafter  undertaken,  it  will  prove  a  matter  of  interest  to  trace  up  the  course  of  the 
streams,  and  fix  the  true  relations  of  the  existing  volcanic  peaks  to  these  formations. 

Between  the  branches  of  the  Klikatat  is  the  Tahk  prairie,  the  waters  of  which  communicate 
with  the  main  river.  It  is  about  six  miles  in  length,  by  a  mile  in  its  greatest  width,  and  is 
1,268  feet  above  Vancouver.  A  shallow,  marshy  lake  occupies  its  lower  end,  the  remains  of 
one  which  formerly  covered  the  whole  and  extended  much  beyond  the  present  bounds  of  the 
open  land.  It  is  a  favorite  kamas  and  wappatoo  ground  of  the  Indians.  The  soil  is  a  bluish  clay, 
baking  very  hard  and  cracking  in  the  sun,  and  forms  a  great  contrast  with  that  bordering  it,  which 
is  light  and  pulverulent,  and  deeply  colored  by  oxide  of  iron.  The  dark  hornblende  rock  first 
noticed  on  the  Yakohtl  occurred  in  place  again  here,  but  much  more  impregnated  with  iron. 
The  hills  are  barren  and  covered  with  scattered  blocks.  The  main  Klikatat  river  we  found 
running  in  a  bed  about  two  hundred  feet  below  the  general  surface.  It  was  at  this  season 
(August  1 3)  thirty  or  forty  yards  wide,  and  up  to  the  flanks  of  the  horses,  with  a  pretty  swift  cur 
rent.  Its  advantages  for  lumbering  deserve  particular  attention.  The  yellow  pine  is  found  in 
abundance,  of  excellent  quality  and  suitable  size,  everywhere  upon  its  banks,  and  logs  can  be 
run  at  any  season  of  the  year  without  much  difficulty  to  the  Columbia.  This  river  heads  in 
Mount  Adams.  The  boulders  in  its  bed  resemble  in  every  respect  those  found  in  the  Cathlapoot'l. 
Its  intersection  with  the  trail  is  the  lowest  point  touched  by  the  main  party  from  the  time  of 
leaving  the  Cathlapoot'l  to  that  of  reaching  the  Columbia  below  the  Pisquouse.  The  descent 
of  the  Cascade  range  may  be  considered  as  terminating  here,  and  the  survey  of  its  eastern  slope 
to  have  commenced. 

The  Sahpenis,  the  first  branch  of  the  Yakima  encountered  upon  the  route,  appears  also  to  head 
in  Mount  Adams.  It  is  divided  from  the  Klikatat  by  a  range  of  hills  rising  to  the  height  of  3,600 
feet,  and  its  bed,  though  in  a  very  deep  canon,  is  much  more  elevated  than  that  of  the  Klikatat. 
The  walls  of  this  ravine  are  basaltic  precipices  rising  in  steps.  The  country  here  first  begins  to 
open,  exhibiting  bald  prairies  seen  at  a  great  height  upon  the  hills,  and  between  it  and  the  Simkwe 
the  forest  disappears  altogether.  The  fact  was  noticed  by  Lieut.  Wilkes,  in  his  memoir  on  West 
ern  America,  that  south  of  48th  parallel  the  line  of  forest  terminates  at  about  the  same  distance 


478  GEOLOGY   OF    CENTRAL    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

from  the  coast,  and  this  appears  substantially  the  case;  nor  is  the  fact  much  altered  by  the  differ 
ence  of  elevation.  Emerging  from  the  forest,  the  ground  was  literally  covered  with  fragments  of 
basnlr,  varying  in  size  from  large  blocks  to  pieces  resembling  macadamized  pavement — some 
compact,  some  cellular  or  scoriaceous.  Interspersed  were  beds  of  tenacious  blue  clay,  which 
had  retained  the  footprints  of  horses  since  the  spring.  The  source  of  such  a  deposite  in  this 
situation  could  not  readily  be  traced. 

The  two  streams  last  mentioned  unite  and  form  one  fork  of  the  Yakima,  to  the  lower  part  of 
which  the  Indians  give  the  name  of  Pisko.  The  aspect  of  the  country,  on  descending  to  its  valley, 
is  one  of  extreme  desolation.  Narrow  ravines  or  cafions,  bordered  by  walls  of  basalt,  having 
a  rude  columnar  structure,  converge  from  the  mountains,  the  strata  dipping  towards  the  east 
at  a  small  but  varying  angle.  The  foot-hills  are  clothed  with  purshia  and  artemisia,  and  strewn 
with  silicious  pebbles.  The  bottoms  are  barren  and  stony,  and  intersected  with  arroyos.  A 
narrow  and  broken  line  of  dwarf  oaks  and  willows  indicates  the  windings  of  the  stream.  The 
Indians  have  indeed,  here  and  there,  on  the  margin  of  the  water-courses,  small  garden  patches, 
where  they  raise  potatoes,  a  little  corn,  and  other  vegetables;  but  the  country  generally  is  a  desert. 
The  elevation  of  this  valley,  at  the  forks,  is  1,519  feet  above  Vancouver.  From  that  point  the 
course  of  the  expedition  was  nearly  north,  crossing  the  several  branches  of  the  Yakima.  The 
general  direction  of  these  is  from  northwest  to  southeast,  very  nearly  the  reverse  of  that  followed 
by  the  rivers  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountains.  The  main  stream,  which  heads  not  far  from 
latitude  47°  30'  north,  is,  on  reaching  the  valley,  deflected  by  a  heavy  range  which  breaks  off 
from  the  Cascades  and  curves  to  the  south,  separating  the  waters  of  the  Yakima  from  the  Pisquouse 
and  the  Columbia,  and  terminating  near  the  mouth  of  the  first.  It  thus  forms  a  basin,  in  which 
the  upper  waters  of  the  Yakima  are  enclosed.  Spurs  from  this  range  run  towards  the  Cascades, 
sinking  into  the  general  level  of  the  intermediate  plateau,  or  uniting  with  corresponding  offsets 
of  the  latter.  The  main  Yakima  cuts  through  four  of  these  spurs,  at  the  very  base  of  the  range, 
before  again  turning  to  the  eastward,  and  its  various  branches  have  eroded  from  the  plateau  the 
valleys  through  which  they  run  to  meet  it.  Long  horizontal  lines  of  basalt  bordering  these, 
valleys  indicate  the  original  level  of  the  basin,  though  it  would  appear  that  elevation  has  at  some 
points  disturbed  it.  Traces  of  lacustrine  terraces  are  also  observable,  formed  probably  before 
the  river  had  completely  broken  through  its  barriers. 

The  basalt  is  continuous,  along  the  base  of  the  Cascades,  on  the  line  from  the  Dalles  north 
ward  to  the  Columbia  at  its  bend  near  the  mouth  of  the  Pisquouse.  To  the  eastward  it  stretches 
across  the  great  Spokane  plains.  Upon  the  divides  between  the  Wenass  and  the  main  Yakima, 
and  between  that  and  the  Columbia,  it  is  interstratified  with  coarse  basaltic  conglomerate.  Its 
western  limit  upon  the  Cascade  mountains  is  not  determined.  Upon  our  route  from  Chequoss, 
it  was,  as  has  already  been  mentioned,  interrupted  by  hornblende  rock  upon  the  Klikatat  river,  and 
in  ascending  the  main  Yakima  pass;  it  ceased  on  ascending  the  lower  hills,  where  the  same  rock 
succeeded  it.  The  rocky  bluffs  which  border  the  Nahchess,  from  its  source  down,  consist  of 
basalt  and  basaltic  conglomerate,  and  the  latter  crosses  the  range  and  is  visible  upon  the  sides 
of  La  Tete,  near  the  western  gate  of  the  mountains.  Captain  Wilkes  mentions  that  on  the 
summit  of  this  pass  the  rocks  are  trachytic,  and  contain  black  crystals,  probably  hornblende.  The 
structure  of  the  basalt  varies  greatly,  occurring  both  compact,  cellular  and  scoriaceous;  and  its 
forms  of  fracture  or  separation  are  as  numerous.  In  the  Atahnam  valley,  which  is  hemmed  in 
by  low  mural  precipices,  two  very  widely-distinct  strata- are  noticeable;  the  lower  is  divided 
into  large  columns,  from  three  to  five  feet  in  diameter,  which,  at  a  little  distance,  present  the 
appearance  of  horizontal  lamination.  On  closer  inspection,  they  are  found  to  consist  of  thin 
wedge-shaped  fragments,  a  few  inches  across,  and  of  which  they  seem  to  have  been  built  up. 
One  of  these  columns  had  been  split  through  the  centre,  and  it  was  perceivable  that  the  structure 
extended  throughout,  the  joints  being  just  visible.  The  columns  were  cylindrical,  and  well 
relieved,  both  from  each  other  and  the  wall,  and  stood  ten  or  twelve  feet  high  above  the  soil. 


GEOLOGY    OF    CENTRAL    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  479 

The  upper  stratum  was  broken  into  small  irregular  columns,  of  the  usual  character,  very  com 
pact,  and  with  somewhat  cotichoidal  faces.  The  same  appearance  was  afterwards  noticed  in 
descending  the  Peluse.  In  the  Sewacksa  Pass,  crossing  the  mountains  between  the  mouth  of 
the  Yakima  and  the  camp  at  Wenass,  the  trail  passes  through  a  narrow  caiion  or  crevasse,  now 
the  bed  of  a  \vinter  torrent,  which  seems  to  have  been  the  immediate  seat  of  some  volcanic  action. 
The  walls  generally  are  composed  of  very  perfect  pentagonal  columns,  five  or  six  inches  through; 
but  at  one  point,  where  the  face  has  been  broken  down,  it  consisted  of  cellular  lava,  containing 
cavities  filled  with  sublimed  sulphur.  Seams  of  sand  and  ashes  occurred  here  beneath  the  basalt. 
In  the  lower  part  of  the  Yakima  valley  are  two  or  three  basins  surrounded  by  walls,  partially 
obliterated,  which  appear  to  be  the  remains  of  small  craters. 

The  boulders  contained  in  the  Pisko,  the  Atahnam,  and  other  streams  lying  between  the  latter 
and  the  Nahchess,  were  of  the  same  description  as  in  those  already  noticed,  being  invariably 
trachytic  or  basaltic.  On  reaching  the  Nahchess,  granite  and  quartzose  rock  for  the  first  time 
occur,  intermixed  with  the  trachyte.  Of  this  branch,  which  is  the  next  in  size  to  the  main  river, 
one  fork  heads  in  Mount  Rainier,  the  other  in  a  peak,  having  an  extinct  crater,  to  the  south.  As 
we  found  that  from  here  northward  the  trachyte  ceases  entirely,  this  river  may  be  assumed,  gen 
erally  speaking,  as  the  northern  limit  of  trachyte,  and  the  southern  of  the  granite  series. 

On  the  northern  side  of  the  Nahchess,  not  far  from  its  mouth,  the  first  sedimentary  deposit 
was  met  with,  in  a  soft,  yellowish  sandstone,  resting  on  the  basalt.  Its  dip  appeared  to  be  to  the 
northwest,  and  at  an  angle  of  10°.  In  the  lower  stratum,  at  the  height  of  about  fifty  feet  from 
the  level  of  the  valley,  a  bed  of  river-sand  and  stones,  precisely  similar  to  those  in  the  present 
stream,  and  three  or  four  feet  thick,  was  exposed.  Above  this  was  a  layer  of  friable,  coarse 
grained  sandstone,  arid  next  a  seam  apparently  of  intermixed  clay  and  volcanic  ashes  about  a  foot 
in  thickness,  which  was  in  turn  overlaid  by  sandstone.  The  bluff's  run  to  the  height  of  some  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and  exhibited  several  strata,  the  lower  only,  however,  containing  the  river- 
stone  and  clay.  It  would  appear  that  a  former  bed  of  the  Nahchess  had  been  covered  to  a  con 
siderable  depth  with  detritus  from  the  mountains  and  subsequently  elevated  to  this  position,  the 
river  meantime  seeking  a  new  channel. 

The  prevalent  rocks  on  the  summit  of  the  Cascades,  at  the  main  Yakima  Pass,  were  breccias, 
constituted  for  the  most  part  of  argillaceous  or  magnesian  rocks.  These  continued  as  far  down  as 
Lake  Kitchelus,  forming  the  walls,  of  the  ravines  wherever  visible.  The  higher  peaks,  to  the 
northward,  seemed  to  be  of  basalt  or  conglomerate  similar  to  that  on  the  Nahchess,  but  were  too 
distant  to  be  determined  with  certainty.  Gneiss  was  observed  upon  the  borders  of  Lake 
Kahchess,  dipping  westward  at  an  angle  of  15°'  Granite  was  not  seen  in  place,  but  is  found  in 
boulders  in  the  river.  Towards  the  foot  of  the  mountain  hornblende  rocks  occurred,  succeeded 
by  basalt.  The  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  Yakima  is  the  series  of  lakes,  through  some  of 
which  it  passes;  while  the  others  communicate  with  it  by  outlets.  The  source  of  the  river  is 
itself  a  small  lake,  situated  on  the  very  summit  of  the  dividing  ridge,  at  an  elevation  of  about  3,600 
feet,  from  which  the  D'Wamish  also,  emptying  into  Puget  sound,  derives  its  origin.  It  thence 
passes  by  a  very  rapid  descent  to  another  somewhat  larger,  and  again  into  a  third,  falling,  in  the 
course  of  five  miles,  over  1,000  feet. 

Lower  down  it  receives  through  one  outlet  Lake  Kahchess,  into  which  a  smaller  adjunct 
empties,  and  by  another  Lake  Kleallum.  The  largest  of  these  is  about  eight  miles  in  length. 
The  lower  lakes,  particularly  the  last,  bear  evidence  of  a  former  much  greater  extent;  lines  of 
terrace  of  considerable  height  being  apparent  at  a  distance  from  its  present  bed,  and  there  is 
abundant  proof  on  the  river  that  the  chain  was  once  more  extensive.  The  existing  lakes  are. 
deep,  excepting  the  small  one  at  the  summit  of  the  pass. 

The  upper  valley  of  the  main  Yakima,  from  its  exit  ftom  the  mountains  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Atahnam,  is  separated  by  the  spurs  already  alluded  to  into  several  basins,  of  which  that  around 
Ketetas  is  the  largest.  In  these  there  are  some  traces  of  pretty  good  soil,  chiefly  on  the  margin 


480  GEOLOGY   OF    CENTRAL   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

of  the  streams,  but  very  limited  in  extent  compared  with  the  barren  country  around.  The  lower 
valley,  which  is  much  larger — being  from  six  to  ten  miles  wide,  and  forty  in  length — is,  for  the 
most  part,  a  waste.  The  soil  throughout  is  sandy,  and  there  appears  to  be  but  little  difference 
between  that  in  the  bottoms  and  on  the  hills.  The  artemisia,  purshia,  and  composite,  as  a  general 
thing,  cover  the  ground  to  the  line  of  the  spring  freshets.  It  is  the  opinion  of  many,  indeed,  that 
wheat  would  thrive  well  upon  the  artemisia  lands,  and  that  in  particular  winter  wheat  would  be 
sutiiciently  advanced  before  the  drought  sets  in  not  to  suffer  by  it.  The  fact  remains  to  be 
ascertained  by  experiment,  but  as  applied  to  the  district  at  large  does  not  seem  probable.  Upon 
the  immediate  borders  of  the  river  the  land  produces  pretty  well.  The  potatoes  raised  by  the 
Indians  are  very  fine,  in  spite  of  their  rude  cultivation.  Melons  and  squashes,  which  they  also 
raise,  do  not  succeed  well,  probably  on  account  of  their  seed  being  poor;  but  corn  does  not  thrive 
at  all.  The  grasses  are  abundant  only  in  particular  tracts,  and,  though  this  may  be  called  a 
grazing  country,  it  is  not  a  good  one.  The  depth  of  snow  in  winter  would  make  it  necessary  for 
the  farmer  or  grazier  to  lay  up  supplies,  for  the  Indian  stock  are  driven  to  the  artemisia  itself  for 
forage,  and  become  excessively  lean  as  well  as  unsavory. 

The  banks  of  the  Columbia,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Snake  up  to  the  mountains,  are  a  waste  of 
sand,  bare  of  everything  but  the  artemisia  and  the  plants  usually  accompanying  it. 

As  a  whole,  therefore,  this  section  of  the  country  does  not  promise  much  as  an  agricultural 
region.  The  long  drought  during  the  summer  presents  serious  obstacles  to  cultivation,  independ 
ent  of  the  soil.  It  is  a  matter  deserving  of  consideration,  however,  whether  the  introduction  of 
deciduous  trees  upon  an  extensive  scale  would  not  materially  improve  the  character  of  the  valleys. 

Next  to  the  basalt,  which  forms  the  universal  rock  of  this  section  of  the  country,  its  most 
striking  feature  is  the  amount  of  detritus  which  fills  the  valleys,  and  covers  to  a  considerable 
extent  the  secondary  or  lower  hills.  This  detritus  appears  to  have  been  the  wash  of  the  neigh 
boring  mountains,  or  the  decomposition  of  subjacent  rocks,  and  not  to  have  been  transported 
from  a  distance.  It  would  seem  that  the  whole  of  the  inner  basins  of  the  Yakima  have  been 
eroded  by  its  various  branches,  and  its  materials  gradually  swept  down  to  the  Columbia.  The 
higher  ranges  of  hills  present  long  and  somewhat  uneven  summits,  deeply  furrowed  by  ravines. 
The  lower  exhibit  the  characteristic  features  of  basaltic  tables,  but  slightly  indented.  It  is 
remarkable  that,  in  so  great  an  extent  of  mountain  country,  and  where  drift  forms  so  large  an 
element,  there  should  be  no  appearance  whatever  of  glacial  action.  The  surface  of  basalt  is 
unfavorable  to  the  preservation  of  diluvial  scratches,  it  is  true ;  and  the  effects  of  ordinary  frosts 
in  separating  its  joints  cannot  readily  be  distinguished  from  the  crushing  caused  by  large 
masses  of  ice.  But  there  are  no  moraines  sufficiently  well  defined  to  be  recognised,  and  no 
transported  boulders  of  any  magnitude.  The  whole  seems  to  be  the  result  of  a  more  gradual 
action  and  of  nearer  origin.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  Wenass  valley,  there  is,  indeed,  a  range 
of  low  hills  in  the  midst,  which  at  first  sight  were  supposed  to  be  moraines,  but  it  was  after 
wards  concluded  were  more  properly  referable  to  erosion. 

Low  terraces  of  deposited  land  and  gravel  occasionally  line  these  vallcvs,  and  upon  the  lower 
Yakima  are  traceable  continuously  for  some  twenty  miles,  the  height  above  the  present  bed 
of  the  stream  increasing  gradually  with  its  descent.  These  are,  however,  by  no  means  so 
remarkable  as  the  terraces  upon  the  upper  Columbia,  which  will  presently  be  noticed.  The 
rivers  all  wander  extensively  over  beds  of  sand  and  stones,  with  very  low  banks.  The  asso 
ciated  minerals  of  this  region  are  but  few,  and  those  not  of  great  interest,  with  the  exception  ot 
gold,  which  occurs  in  all  the  branches  of  the  Yakima.  It  is  in  very  fine  particles  and  much 
worn,  and  seems  to  be  greatly  diffused.  The  color  could  in  fact  be  obtained  almost  everywhere 
in  the  surface  sand  upon  the  streams.  An  attempt  was  made  to  find  it  by  digging  deeper,  but 
without  success.  In  fact,  the  absence  of  bed  rock  or  strata  of  clay  in  the  streams,  at  accessible 
depths,  renders  the  chance  of  successful  mining  upon  them  improbable.  If  gold  is  found  in  suffi 
cient  quantity  to  pay  for  working,  it  will  probably  be  in  dry  diggings  or  in  the  rock.  The 


GEOLOGY   OP    CENTRAL   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  481 

Indians  were  in  possession  of  one  or  two  pieces  of  some  size,  which  they  said  they  had  found  in 
the  mountains,  where  there  was  more  of  it;  but  their  statements  are  not  to  be  relied  on,  and 
it.  was  considered  probable  that  they  had  brought  them  up  from  the  settlements.  They  never 
could  produce  others,  or  point  out  the  locality  of  what  they  had.  That  gold  will  be  found  in 
quantity,  at  least  in  this  part  of  the  range,  is,  however,  questionable,  as  the-talcose  rocks,  if  not 
wanting,  are  very  limited  in  extent.  To  the  northward  they  are  somewhat  more  abundant. 

The  range  already  spoken  of,  which  separates  the  Yakima  from  the  Pisquouse  and  the 
Columbia  on  the  north  and  east,  is  little  if  at  all  inferior  to  the  average  height  of  the  Cascades 
themselves,  the  point  at  which  the  trail  crossed  them  being  5,749  feet  by  barometrical  measure 
ment — an  elevation  much  greater  than  either  pass  of  the  Cascade  mountains.  It  appears  to  be 
formed  entirely  of  basalt  and  volcanic  conglomerate,  the  latter  showing  only  on  the  northern 
side  of  the  Columbia.  On  the  southern  slope  the  basalt  was  but  superficially  covered  with 
earth,  and  the  strata  seemed  to  dip  towards  the  southeast.  The  tops  of  the  columns  were  much 
broken  up,  the  fragments  strewing  the  hills,  and,  where  denuded  by  the  winter  rains,  exhibiting 
long  black  strias  on  the  surface.  On  the  tops  of  these  mountains,  however,  there  are  quite 
extensive  levels  of  prairie  and  open  \voods,  and  the  soil  seems  to  be  better  than  on  the  lower 
ridges.  The  timber,  at  first  yellow  pine,  changes  towards  the  summit  to  a  straggling  mountain 
species,  intermixed  with  larch,  spruce,  and  fir.  Some  of  the  larches  were  here  as  much  as  three 
feet  in  diameter. 

The  view  from  these  mountains  was  magnificent.  On  reaching  an  open  spot  in  our  descent, 
we  saw  the  Columbia  just  beneath  us  flowing  through  a  vast  canon  at  its  great  bend ;  to  the  east 
stretched  the  central  basaltic  plateau,  rising  to  wards  the  north  into  high  and  broken  tables,  beyond 
which  appeared  the  gap  of  the  Okinakane ;  while  to  the  west  and  northwest  the  craggy  sierra 
of  the  Cascades  reared  itself  above  the  lines  of  forest  into  the  limits  of  perpetual  snow.  The 
character  of  this  range  changes  materially  with  its  geological  formation ;  naked  and  precipitous 
ridges,  surmounted  with  sharp  peaks,  rising  singly  or  in  groups,  some  of  which  seem  to  be  the 
skeletons  of  mountains,  distinguishing  the  granitic  from  the  tamer  features  of  the  basaltic  region. 
The  country  on  the  Columbia  from  this  point  exhibits  a  corresponding  change.  On  the  left  bank, 
basalt  continues  to  the  Spokane  river,  being  underlaid,  according  to  Lieutenant  Wilkes,  by  granite  ; 
and  on  the  right  bank  it  occurs  interstratified  with  conglomerate  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  but 
ceases  entirely  a  few  miles  above.  How  far  down  the  river  it  continues  we  had  no  opportunity 
of  noticing,  but  presumed  that  it  ceased  at  the  Priest's  rapids,  as  it  is  abrupt  for  some  distance 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Yakima,  where  the  banks,  though  high,  consist  of  sand  and  boulders  only. 

A  little  below  the  mouth  of  the  Pisquouse  the  rock  on  the  west  bank  changes  to  gneiss,  which 
near  the  river  is  broken  up  and  scattered  in  enormous  masses.  Veins  of  quartz,  covering  each 
other  at  different  angles,  intersect  it,  varying  in  thickness  from  a  narrow  line  to  several  feet.  It 
is  the  prevailing  rock  on  this  bank  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Enteatkwu,  in  one  place  resting 
upon  a  gray  porphyry.  The  strata  were  somewhat  displaced,  and  occasionally  had  a  slight  dip 
to  the  northward.  The  Pisquouse  is  a  large  and  bold  stream  rising  in  the  main  divide  of  the 
Cascades,  and  interlocking  with  one  of  those  running  into  the  Sound.  It  passes  through  a  lake, 
reported  by  the  Indians  to  be  larger  than  either  of  those  on  the  Yakima.  There  appeared  to  be 
no  valley  as  far  as  could  be  seen,  and  but  a  small  bottom  at  the  mouth.  Quartz  boulders  were 
conspicuous  in  the  stream.  We  noticed  pipes  brought  by  the  Indians  from  higher  up  the  river, 
some  of  which  were  talcose  slate,  and  others  of  stratite.  Gold  was  found  here  also,  but  in  finer 
particles  than  that  in  the  Columbia.  Approaching  the  Enteatkwu,  syenite  replaces  the  gneiss. 
Its  precipitous  bluffs  were  occasionally  intersected  with  large  dykes  of  reddish  quartz,  breaking 
into  angular  fragments.  The  lacustrine  terraces,  which  line  the  bluffs  of  the  Columbia  and  its 
tributaries  from  the  Pisquouse  northward,  form  one  of  the  most  remarkable  features  in  the  geology 
of  the  country.  A  glance  at  the  map  of  the  region  drained  by  the  upper  Columbia  and  by 
Eraser's  river  exhibits  a  considerable  number  of  lakes,  mostly  of  elongated  form,  such  as  they 
61/ 


482  GEOLOGY   OF    CENTRAL   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

would  necessarily  assume  in  the  narrow  valleys  between  parallel  chains  of  mountains.  But 
these  existing  lakes  are  the  few  and  scattered  remains  of  a  vast  system  which  stretched  its  arms 
into  every  recess  long  after  the  general  elevation  of  the  continent,  and  which  has,  in  the  course  of 
time,  been  drained  bv  the  successive  bursting  of  the  barriers  which  confined  them.  Sufficient 
observations  have  not  been  made  to  determine  their  exact  relations  to  each  other,  and  to  the 
expanse  of  water  which  seems  to  have  occupied  the  country  on  the  Columbia  and  Snake  rivers, 
from  the  Dalles  upward ;  but  the  records,  it  is  believed,  exist  for  establishing  with  an  extraordi 
nary  degree  of  accuracy  the  limits  of  each.  The  barometrical  observations  of  the  expedition 
were  made  with  a  view  to  the  more  direct  objects  of  the  survey  only,  and  do  not  present  any 
connected  series  of  results  bearing  upon  the  former  hydrographical  face  of  the  country.  Such 
facts  as  have  been  collected  will,  however,  serve  at  least  to  point  the  way  for  future  observa 
tions.  In  conducting  any  regular  geographical  survey  of  the  country,  and  especially  in  running 
and  marking  the  boundary,  lines  of  elevation  having  reference  to  the  comparative  heights  of 
these  terraces  would  have  peculiar  interest. 

Besides  the  terraces  which  line  the  valleys,  another  class,  not  characterized  by  the  same 
straight  lines,  but  arranged  in  amphitheatres,  or  otherwise  conforming  to  the  make  of  the  elevations 
against  which  they  rest,  appear  on  the  summits  of  the  ranges  dividing  different  branches  of  the 
Columbia.  In  crossing  from  Fort  Okinakane  to  the  Methow  river,  and  again  from  the  Okinakane 
lake  to  Fort  Colville,  such  terraces  were  noticed  at  heights  too  great  to  suppose  them  to  have 
been  deposited,  except  at  a  period  when  the  elevation  of  these  mountains  was  in  its  early  stage. 
As  regards  the  others,  however,  they  bear  every  mark  of  a  much  later  date. 

As  the  route  of  the  expedition  met  the  Columbia  above  the  lower  obstructions  through  which 
it  has  forced  its  way,  the  point  of  the  first  barrier  cannot  be  given  with  certainty.  It  is  supposed 
to  have  been  about  the  Priest's  rapids,  and  another  very  probably  intervened  between  that  and 
the  Pisquouse.  Upon  this  supposition,  the  Grand  Coulee,  which  is  said  not  to  have  been  a 
continuous  channel,  may  have  been  an  arm  or  strait  cutting  off  an  island  or  peninsula.  Numerous 
other  coulees,  which  once  separated  islands,  abound  among  these  mountains,  the  terraced  banks 
remaining  at  each  end  towards  the  river,  while  the  intermediate  level  now  constitutes  an  elevated 
valley  or  "land  strait."  Such  was  the  pass  by  which  the  expedition  passed  from  the  Columbia 
to  Lake  Chelan.  The  destruction  of  the  barriers  upon  the  rivers  seems,  in  some  cases,  to  have 
been  violent,  and  others  gradual.  In  the  former  case  it  would  probably  result  that  a  mass  of 
earth  and  rock,  in  proportion  to  the  body  of  water  liberated,  would  be  swept  down  from  the  shore 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  ruptured  dam.  This  may  have  been  the  cause  of  the  removal  of  the 
large  masses  of  gneiss  which  have  been  torn  from  their  bed  below  the  Pisquouse,  as  already 
mentioned,  and  scattered  along  the  shore  of  the  Columbia.  These  evidently  originated  in  the 
immediate  neighborhood,  as  they  are  riot  worn  by  transportation,  and  the  strata  above  thorn 
seem  to  have  been  disrupted.  Under  any  circumstances  where  a  rapid  current  prevailed,  but 
more  particularly  where  its  egress  was  sudden  and  violent,  if  the  valley  \vere  circuitous,  the 
terraces,  consisting  of  sand  and  loose  stone,  would  be  swept  away,  in  a  great  measure,  unless 
protected  by  the  bends  of  the  river,  in  which  case  they  would  appear  alternately  on  the  different 
sides  of  the  stream.  Where,  on  the  other  hand,  the  fall  was  slower,  as  from  the  subsidence  of 
the  water  by  gradual  or  steady  drainage,  the  terraces  wrould  remain  perfect  on  both  sides.  So, 
too,  if  the  subsidence  were  altogether  checked,  from  time  to  time,  for  a  considerable  period, 
or  occurred  merely  at  irregular  intervals,  successive  steps  would  be  formed  of  greater  or  less 
height  according  to  the  amount  of  water  escaped,  and  of  greater  or  less  width  according  to  the 
length  of  the  intervale,  the  diminution  of  the  entire  body  of  water,  or  increase  in  the  amount  of 
detritus  brought  down.  The  lower  terraces  in  a  valley  will  naturally  be  widest,  because  an 
amount  of  material,  brought  down  during  higher  stages  of  water,  will  have  been  directly  pre 
cipitated  or  spread  out,  forming  a  level  floor  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  and  its  erosion  will  take 
place  only  to  an  extent  proportioned  to  the  size  of  the  usual  stream. 


GEOLOGY   OP    CENTRAL   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  483 

The  upper  Columbia  and  its  tributaries,  through  the  whole  route  of  the  expedition,  presented 
this  formation  upon  a  scale  of  singular  magnitude  and  variety  of  circumstance.  It  is  probable 
that  in  this  northern  district,  where  the  winters  are  exceedingly  cold,  ice  has  played  an  import 
ant  part  upon  these  elevated  lakes ;  but  the  surface  of  the  country  exhibits  no  evidence  of  its 
action  subsequent  to  their  drainage,  and  there  are  no  appearances  either  of  the  former  existence 
of  fixed  glaciers,  or  the  transportation  of  boulders  from  a  distance  by  moving  bodies.  In  fact, 
rocks  out  of  place  are  of  very  rare  occurrence,  considering  the  mountainous  character  of  the 
country,  and  nowhere  to  a  size  or  extent  beyond  the  capacity  of  ordinary  causes. 

On  leaving  the  Columbia  to  visit  the  Chelan  lake,  our  route  ascended  one  of  these  terraces, 
rising  to  the  height  of  six  hundred  and  forty  feet  in  a  single  slope,  and  occupying  a  recess  in  the 
hills  which  bordered  it.  On  reaching  the  top,  it  proved  to  be  the  entrance  of  a  level  valley, 
extending  through  the  hills  and  emerging  at  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  lake. 
This  valley  or  coulee  is  only  one  of  a  number  noticed  in  this  region,  and  is  analogous  to  the 
"cots"  or  "land  straits"  described  by  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  (Manuel  El.  Geol.,  ch.  vii.)  The  lake 
is  four  hundred  and  seventy-four  feet  above  the  Columbia  at  its  mouth,  and  its  outlet  makes  this 
descent  in  about  four  miles.  It  did  not  appear  to  be  very  deep,  though  it  occupies  a  narrow 
valley  between  precipitous  mountains  of  syenite;  the  detritus  of  these  having  probably  filled  it  up. 
Its  length  seems,  from  Indian  account,  to  be  thirty-five  or  forty  miles.  It  affords  a  good  illustra 
tion  of  what  the  other  terraced  valleys  formerly  were;  the  appearance  of  its  shores  indicating 
that,  should  the  barrier  at  its  mouth  be  removed,  similar  terraces  would  remain  to  those  which 
border  the  Columbia  at  its  mouth. 

The  most  remarkable  exhibition  of  these  is,  however,  upon  the  Methow  river — the  barrier  R. 
of  Wilkes's  map.  In  crossing  the  mountains  between  Fort  Okinakane  and  that  stream,  we 
noticed,  upon  the  summit  and  high  up  on  the  sides,  remains  of  those  formed  previous  to  their 
elevation;  but  the  valley  of  the  river  itself  is  lined  with  others  of  a  later  date.  According  to  two 
or  three  of  the  barometrical  observations  taken  in  surveying  the  supposed  pass,  the  altitudes  of 
these  appear  to  agree  sufficiently  with  some  on  the  Columbia  to  indicate  their  connexion.  In 
descending  the  river,  we  met  with  two  dams  or  barriers  which  had  once  restrained  its  waters, 
and  concerning  which  there  could  be  no  question.  The  first  was  externally  a  mere  well  of 
detritus,  though  probably  with  a  rocky  foundation.  It  was  level  on  the  top,  and  sloped  at  the 
sides  like  the  lateral  terraces.  Half  a  mile  below  was  the  second,  which  was  formed  against  a 
protruding  point  of  rocks.  In  both  cases  the  river  had  cut  merely  a  narrow  channel  through 
them  on  one  side,  leaving  the  rest  standing.  The  walls  of  syenite  on  the  Methow  were  in  many 
places  cut  and  smoothed  by  the  action  of  the  water  at  a  height  of  seventy-five  or  eighty  feet 
above  its  present  bed.  At  the  mouth  of  the  river  no  less  than  eighteen  terraces,  rising  one  above 
another,  were  counted.  Small  moraines  were  noticed  in  this  valley,  but  apparently  rather  the 
result  of  violent  rush  of  water  from  lateral  branches  than  of  ice.  The  valley  of  the  Methow 
affords  a  richer  field  for  the  geologist  in  plutonic  and  metamorphic  rocks  than  any  other  portion 
of  the  Territory  visited  by  the  survey,  and  would  richly  reward  a  careful  exploration.  Gneiss, 
syenite,  and  granite  occur,  well  characterized  and  blended  with  each  other.  The  syenite  is 
often  divided  by  joints  so  as  almost  to  appear  stratified,  and  to  give  its  perpendicular  walls 
the  semblance  of  artificial  construction.  The  gneiss  is  found  both  horizontal  and  displaced  by 
the  intrusion  of  trap.  Associated  with  these  are  also  serpentine  conglomerates  and  prophyry. 
Almost  all  these  rocks  pass  by  insensible  gradations  into  one  another,  and  their  relative  positions 
are  excessively  complicated.  There  appears  to  be  a  very  great  resemblance  between  the 
geology  of  this  part  of  the  Cascades  and  that  of  the  Shasta  mountains,  as  described  by  Wilkes 
in  his  memoir  on  Western  America. 

The  rock  in  place  on  the  Columbia  between  the  Chelan  and  the  mouth  of  the  Okinakane 
was  syenite,  varying  somewhat  in  character.  It  was  frequently  intersected  with  large  veins  of 
feldspar.  In  crossing  from  Fort  Okinakane  to  the  forks  of  the  Methow  the  syenite  changed  to 


484  GEOLOGY   OF    CENTRAL   WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

granite,  with  white  and  flesh-colored  feldspar.  The  bend  of  the  Columbia  at  Fort  Okinakane 
seems  to  be  the  northern  limit  of  basalt  to  the  east  side  of  the  river,  as  the  Pisquouse  is  on  the 
west.  The  prevailing  rocks  on  the  Okinakane  as  far  up  as  its  forks  were  syenite  and  gneiss ; 
above  that  point,  granite  and  gneiss,  overlaid  with  coarse  conglomerate  containing  granitic 
masses;  The  gneiss  is  much  altered  by  contact  with  this,  its  stratification  being  obscure  and 
often  contorted.  At  the  foot  of  the  principal  lake,  porphyritic  rocks  replaced  the  gneiss.  On  the 
west  branch  of  the  Okinakane  (the  Mil-a-kite-kwu)  the  conglomerate  formed  the  predominant 
rock.  There  was  first  noticed  talcose  slate  in  place,  but  much  dislocated.  Gold  was  found  in 
both  branches,  in  rather  larger  and  sharper  particles  than  below.  The  soil  of  the  valley  is  sandy 
and  in  some  places  covered  with  alkaline  efflorescence.  We  met  with  two  or  three  small  lakes, 
the  waters  of  which  were  impregnated  with  the  salt  incrustations  which  had  formed  on  their 
borders. 

The  valley  of  the  Okinakane  presents  a  series  of  basins  divided  from  one  another  by  projecting 
points,  which  exhibit  marks  of  disruption.  The  sides  are  terraced  as  on  the  other  streams, 
some  of  the  tables  rising  to  the  height  of  1,600  feet  above  Vancouver,  or  about  900  above  the 
river.  The  lower  of  the  existing  lakes  were  once  all  evidently  connected  with  the  Upper  or 
Great  lake,  and  have  been  separated  by  the  alluvial  deposits  filling  up  the  intermediate  tracts, 
which  now  form  reedy  marshes.  They  all  appeared  to  be  shallow,  except  in  channels  in  the 
centre.  In  returning  to  the  forks,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  river,  we  passed  through  one  of  the 
coulees,  terminated  at  either  end  by  terraces,  in  which  were  several  small  lakes  at  the  foot  of 
the  precipitous  bluffs,  in  situations  which  suggested  that  their  beds  had  been  scooped  out  by 
eddies  in  the  ancient  stream. 

The  width  of  the  Cascade  chain  at  the  latitude  of  the  forks  of  the  Okinakane  is  probably  seventy- 
five  miles,  and  a  large  basin  would  seem  to  be  enclosed  between  the  ranges  respectively  bordering 
that  river  and  Puget  sound.  The  western  range  is  broken  and  craggy,  rising  in  points  to  the 
snow-line.  Mount  Baker  was  not  visible  from  even  the  highest  points  that  we  passed  over. 

Ascending  the  divide  between  the  Okinakane  and  the  waters  of  the  small  river  emptying  into 
the  Columbia  at  Fort  Colville,  the  terraces  were  found  surrounding  an  upper  basin  at  the  summit. 
The  height  of  this  by  an  aneroid  barometer  was  2,647  feet  over  Fort  Vancouver,  and  1,500  feet 
above  the  lake.  This  divide  was  rolling,  covered  with  bunch-grass  and  wooded  with  pine  and 
larch,  with  a  few  cedars  and  firs  intermixed.  Birch  and  poplars  were  noticed  in  the  valley. 
The  paper  birch  does  not  appear  to  grow  south  of  the  4Sth  parallel. 

Here  again  the  conglomerate  overlaid  syenite  and  gneiss ;  and  following  the  stream,  serpentine, 
granite,  greenstone,  gneiss,  porphyritic  serpentine,  quartz  rock,  crystallized  carbonate  of  lime  in 
large  veins,  and  talcose  slate,  were  found.  Approaching  the  Columbia,  gneiss  and  stratified 
quartz  prevail.  This  last  forms  the  canon  at  the  mouth  of  tne  stream,  and  a  vein  traversing  the 
bed  of  the  Columbia  a  little  below  it  causes  the  cascade  known  as  the  Kettle  falls.  The  soil  in 
this  valley  is  a  light  sandy  loarn,  much  better  than  that  on  the  Okinakane. 

From  Fort  Colville  the  trail  towards  the  Spokane  river  rose  by  another  high  terrace  to  a  valley, 
through  which  a  small  stream  flows  into  the  Columbia  at  the  falls.  This  valley  is  flat  and 
marshy,  and  evidently  has  formed  another  lake  or  arm.  The  soil  is  clayey,  and  generally  of 
good  quality,  with  a  subsoil  of  gravel  and  round  stone.  A  small  colony  of  Hudson's  Bay  Com 
pany's  servants  whose  terms  have  expired  have  here  commenced  farming.  They  state  that 
the  small  grains  and  roots  thrive  well.  The  company  formerly  raised  in  this  neighborhood  suffi 
cient  wheat  to  supply  all  their  northern  posts  with  flour;  but  the  climate  is  cold,  and  the  winters 
set  in  early.  On  the  23d  October  the  thermometer  stood,  at  the  camp  of  the  expedition,  10°  at 
sunrise,  and  on  the  24th  snow  fell  to  the  depth  of  six  or  eight  inches. 

Quartzose  rock,  gneiss,  granite,  and  talcose  slate  occur  in  the  hills  bordering  the  valley.  A  low 
divide  separates  it  from  the  Chemakane,  which  runs  into  the  Spokane.  Approaching  the  latter 
river,  basaltic  dykes  show  themselves  occasionally,  the  debris  of  which  forms  small  pyramids. 


GEOLOGY   OF    CENTRAL   WASHINGTON    TERTITORY.  485 

The  hills  between  the  Chemakane  and  the  forks  of  the  Spokane  are  of  syenite,  decomposing  freely 
on  exposure  to  the  air.  South  of  the  Spokane,  basalt  resumed  its  place  as  the  prevailing  rock, 
forming  the  high  table-land  known  as  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Spokanes  and  Nez  Perces,  and 
extending  to  the  Columbia  on  the  west  and  across  the  Snake  river  to  the  south.  Near  the  Spo 
kane,  however,  the  syenite  occasionally  protrudes  through  it,  and  even  as  far  down  as  the  camp 
of  October  30th  and  31st,  appears  on  the  borders  of  a  small  lake  lying  to  the  east  of  the  trail. 
The  soil  of  these  plains  is  generally  thin  and  sterile,  and  covered  with  oxyde  of  iron  from  the 
decomposed  basalt ;  but  in  the  swales,  along  the  margin  of  the  small  streams,  it  is  a  rich,  black 
mould.  Bunch-grass  grows  plentifully  upon  them,  and  they  afford  a  good  range  for  the  horses 
of  the  Indian  tribes  to  which  they  belong.  It  is,  however,  to  be  considered  that,  in  all  the  stock- 
ranges  of  this  country,  the  scattered  growth  of  the  wild  grasses  renders  necessary  a  large  com 
parative  extent  of  country.  These  plains,  except  on  the  northern  skirts,  are  destitute  of  timber, 
and  are  swept  by  high  and  piercing  winds.  Their  surface  is  generally  undulating,  with  occa 
sional  hills  rising  to  the  height  of  100  or  200  feet,  some  of  which  seem  to  indicate,  in  their  tabular 
summits,  the  former  existence  of  a  general  covering  of  detritus  since  swept  away.  Lines  of 
low  terraces  are  also  observable  in  places.  Quite  a  number  of  small  lakes  are  scattered  over  this 
field,  many  of  which  appear  to  have  been  craters.  On  the  line  pursued  by  the  expedition,  a 
series  of  these  continued  for  half  a  day's  journey,  apparently  connected  by  a  crevasse.  They 
were  of  circular  shape,  and  surrounded  by  walls  of  basalt.  The  water  contained  in  them  was 
generally  saline  and  nauseous. 

Approaching  the  Snake  river  the  plain  becomes  more  broken,  though  the  general  level  is  pur 
sued,  and  the  beds  of  the  streams  deepen  as  they  descend.  The  basalt  exhibits  the  usual  dif 
ferent  forms,  and  in  structure  ranges  through  every  variety,  from  scoriaceous  to  compact.  In  the 
canons  of  the  Peluse  the  strata  were  often  curved,  the  individual  columns  retaining  their  perpen 
dicularity  to  the  base,  radiated  from  or  towards  it  according  to  circumstance.  The  lowest  stratum 
in  several  places  exhibited  the  same  separation  into  columns,  separated  by  horizontal  cleavage 
into  plates  resembling  stratification,  as  those  previously  mentioned  in  the  Atahnam  valley.  The 
next  above  it  was  sometimes  in  massive  blocks,  constituting  a  sort  of  compound  column,  while 
the  superior  ones  were  slender,  of  pentagonal  or  hexagonal  forms,  and  convex  at  the  top.  Many 
of  the  larger  blocks  separate  with  conchoidal  faces.  We  noticed  on  these  plains  numerous 
small  mounds  left  by  the  water,  which  had  washed  away  the  surrounding  soil,  in  the  same  man 
ner  as  those  on  the  mound  prairies  near  Olympia.  The  descent  of  the  Peluse  into  the  Snake 
river  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  scenes  in  the  whole  of  this  region.  The  waters  have  hol 
lowed  out  a  large  basin,  in  the  midst  of  which  stand  pinnacles  and  needles  of  every  form  and  size; 
while  black  and  broken  precipices  rise  in  fantastic  irregularity  around  it  to  the  height  of  three 
or  four  hundred  feet. 

The  country  south  of  the  lake,  from  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Peluse  to  the  head  of  the 
Wallah-Wallah,  consists  of  high  rolling  hills,  rising  to  about  the  same  level  with  the  Spokane  pla 
teau,  but  composed  of  sand  resting  on  the  basalt,  which  shows  only  in  the  ravines.  They  are  cut 
with  ridges  and  spurs  by  the  action  of  water,  are  destitute  of  wood,  but  produce  bunch-grass  in 
greater  abundance  than  the  northern  plains.  Much  of  the  land  in  the  bottoms  upon  the  Wallah- 
Wallah  and  its  branches  is  covered  with  alkaline  efflorescences,  but  there  are  tracts  of  very  rich 
soil.  Indian  corn  can,  it  is  said,  be  considered  a  sure  crop ;  melons,  tomatoes,  and  the  finer 
vegetables  grow  well,  and  it  is  believed  that  wheat  would  thrive  on  the  hills;  but  the  country  is 
better  adapted  to  grazing  and  gardening  than  farming.  The  same  remarks  will,  it  is  believed, 
apply  to  the  heads  of  the  Umatilla  and  other  streams  rising  in  the  Blue  mountains.  The  lower 
part  of  the  Wallah- Wallah  valley  is  a  waste  of  sand  and  sage.  Large  boulders  of  granite  are 
found  in  the  banks  of  this  stream,  but  from  whence  transported,  sufficient  is  not  yet  known  of  the 
nearest  cascades  to  determine. 

The  canon  of  the  Snake  river  extends  down  to  its  mouth.     The  country  on  the  Columbia 


486  FROM  PIKE  LAKE  TO  FORT  UNION. 

from  thence  to  Wall  ah- Wallah  is  a  level  plain  of  barren  sand.  Below  the  fort,  high  basaltic 
bluffs  again  rise  on  either  side,  affording  some  of  the  most  picturesque  scenery  upon  the  river. 
They  continue  for  some  twenty  miles,  below  which  they  are  interrupted,  the  plains  coming  down 
to  the  river  for  a  considerable  distance.  Towards  John  Day's  river  (the  Mah-hagh)  the  bluff's 
recommence,  rising  two  or  three  steps  and  surmounted  with  hills.  Thence  approaching  the 
Dalles,  the  country  becomes  more  and  more  broken.  It  is  noticeable  that  in  the  basalt  upon  the 
Columbia,  particularly  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Des  Chutes  river,  (Wan-waw-wi)  the  basaltic 
columns  often  converge  at  the  top  without  the  horizontality  of  the  beds  being  interrupted.  At 
Willow  creek,  (the  Hockspe,)  the  artemisia  disappears,  that  river  forming  its  western  boundary 
to  the  south  of  the  Columbia.  Below  the  Des  Chutes  the  hills  are  freckled  over  with  mounds, 
not  only  on  the  summits,  but  the  sides  also;  and  it  would  seem  that  the  forest  once  extended  to 
this  limit,  and  has  probably  been  driven  back  by  fire.  These  mounds  differ  entirely  in  character 
from  those  mentioned  as  occurring  on  the  plains,  and  from  those  crossing  the  gravelly  prairies 
near  the  head  of  Puget  sound,  the  origin  of  which  is  clearly  due  to  water. 

At  the  Dalles  the  basalt  is  overlaid  with  coarse  conglomerate,  chiefly  formed  of  masses  of  por- 
phyritic  rock  imbedded  in  sandstone.  This  occasionally  stands  up  in  needles,  which  have  been 
protected  from  the  weather  by  boulder  caps.  The  hill-sides  would  seem  to  indicate  that  the 
barrier  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  into  the  mountains  was  suddenly  broken,  and  the  superficial 
earth  and  strata  swept  away.  Traces  of  terraces  remain  on  the  north  side  of  this  entrance  at 
a  considerable  elevation.  The  basalt,  associated  occasionally  with  conglomerate,  lines  the  river 
to  within  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  of  Fort  Vancouver.  The  origin  of  the  cascades  has  already 
been  referred  to.  There  seems  to  be  no  question  that  a  slide  from  the  mountains  on  the  south 
side  has  actually  taken  place,  and  that  the  water  has  thus  been  backed  up  above  it.  No  evidence 
exists  of  any  subsidence  of  the  low  alluvial  shores,  by  which  what  is  called  the  sunken  forest 
has  been  submerged,  but  that  its  position  is  simply  due  to  this  rise  of  water. 
I  have  the  honor  to  be,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

GEORGE  GIBBS. 
Capt.  GEORGE  B.  MCCLELLAN, 

Commanding  Western  Division  N.  P.  Railroad  Exploration,  §'c. 


FINAL    REPORT    OF     LIEUTENANT    C.     GROVER,    OF    HIS    EXAMINATIONS    FROM    PIKE    LAKE    TO    FORT 

UNION. 

SIR:  Pursuant  to  your  instructions,  on  the  25th  of  June  I  left  the  Red  river  trail  at  Pike  lake, 
in  order  to  pursue  a  more  southern  course  to  Fort  Union,  on  the  Missouri,  than  that  marked  out 
for  the  main  party  of  the  expedition  under  your  command. 

The  principal  topographical  features  of  this  immediate  locality  are  those  of  a  broad  rolling 
prairie,  falling  off  gently  to  the  south,  and  partially  drained  by  small  streams  tributary  to  the 
south  fork  of  the  Chippeway  river.  Many  small  lakes,  a  general  peculiarity  of  the  prairie 
country  previously  passed  over,  are  also  found  here  ;  they  are  mostly  the  result  of  imperfect 
drainage,  being  fed  by  falls  of  rain,  and  are  much  less  numerous  in  the  dry  season.  Those  that 
appear  to  be  permanent  have  sandy  bottoms,  and  are  generally  thinly  skirted  with  scrub-oak,  the 
principal  growth  of  this  section  of  the  prairie.  The  formation  is  a  loose  drift,  having  more  or  less 
gravel  in  its  composition,  according  to  its  elevation.  Granite  boulders,  of  from  a  ton's  weight 
down,  are  sometimes  seen,  but  they  are  not  numerous. 

The  south  fork  of  the  Chippeway  river,  which  I  crossed  nine  miles  from  Pike  lake,  winds 
through  rather  a  depression  in  the  prairie  than  a  valley,  as  the  difference  of  level  between  its  bed 
and  the  adjacent  country  is  but  small.  It  has  a  general  width  of  about  thirty  yards,  and  a  depth 
of  about  six  feet.  Its  bed,  as  well  as  the  bed  of  its  small  tributaries,  is  sandy.  The  velocity  of 
its  current  is  about  four  miles  an  hour.  Its  banks  are  not  wooded. 


FROM   PIKE    LAKE   TO   FORT   UNION.  487 

About  nine  miles  from  the  Chippeway  the  Pomme  de  Terre  river  was  crossed.  This  is  a 
stream  of  about  the  same  width  and  depth  as  the  latter,  though  not  quite  so  swift. 

West  of  the  Pomme  de  Terre  there  are  no  streams  of  any  consequence  to  the  foot  of  Lake 
Traverse.  The  prairie  gradually  changes  its  character,  and  becomes  by  degrees  less  rolling,  to 
the  "Moose  Island"  lakes — a  series  of  small  lakes  fourteen  miles  from  the  Pomme  de  Terre  river, 
and  very  similar  in  character  to  those  already  mentioned.  Thence  westward,  to  the  foot  of  Lake 
Traverse,  the  country  becomes  almost  a  dead  level — quite  soft,  and  in  places  marshy,  without  a 
tree  or  a  twig  to  break  its  monotony.  How  far  to  the  north  it  preserves  this  character  I  do  not 
know;  but  to  the  south,  after  a  few  miles,  it  gradually  rises,  becomes  rolling,  and  throws  its 
surface-water  into  small  lakes,  which  are  sometimes  the  sources  of  small  prairie  streams  flowing 
in  a  southwestern  direction. 

Lake  Traverse  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  about  twenty  miles  long,  with  an  average  width 
not  exceeding  three  miles.  It  is  studded  with  now  and  then  a  small  island;  but  wood  is  by  no 
means  plenty —  probably  through  the  instrumentality  of  the  Indians,  and  frequent  prairie  fires. 
Its  surface  is  sixty  or  seventy  feet  below  the  general  level  of  its  banks.  These  latter  are  quite 
abrupt,  and  serrated  with  deep  ravines,  branching  off  in  every  direction  from  the  lake,  and  draw 
ing  off  the  surface-water  from  the  vicinity. 

About  three  miles  from  its  foot  it  receives,  from  a  northeastern  direction,  a  tributary  called  the 
Rabbit  river — a  small  stream,  not  exceeding  ten  yards  in  width,  with  a  rapid  current  and  rocky 
bottom.  This  stream  is  walled  in  by  high  and  rather  abrupt  banks  towards  the  water-course,  but 
sloping  off,  to  the  east,  to  the  general  level  of  the  prairie,  and  to  the  west  to  the  bed  of  the  Bois 
de  Sioux  river.  Deep  cutting  would  be  found  necessary  here,  with  perhaps  a  fair  grade  in 
addition ;  but  the  earth  is  of  a  loose,  gravelly  nature,  intermixed  with  boulders  of  various  sizes, 
and  would  not,  therefore,  be  difficult  to  work. 

The  Bois  de  Sioux  river  rises  in  Lake  Traverse,  and  running  in  a  general  course  a  few  degrees 
east  of  north,  is  tributary  to  a  branch  of  the  Red  river.  Its  current  is  almost  imperceptible — not 
exceeding  one  mile  an  hour;  its  bottom  is  sandy,  and  its  width  varies  from  forty  yards  to  a 
hundred  or  more.  Its  depth  is  generally  not  more  than  four  feet.  In  ordinary  stages  of  water 
its  surface  is  nearly  flush  with  the  broad  intervals  which  stretch  along  on  either  side  between  its 
course  and  the  higher  adjacent  prairies;  but  in  a  wet  season,  or  when  the  winter  snows  begin  to 
melt,  it  overflows  its  banks  and  expands  to  a  mile  or  more  in  breadth. 

Between  the  Bois  de  Sioux  and  the  Wild  Rice  river,  which  is  also  tributary  to  the  Red  river, 
there  is  scarcely  a  perceptible  divide.  The  prairie  is  mostly  soft  and  wet,  with  no  topographical 
features  of  any  importance,  excepting  a  tract  of  sand-hills,  called  "Lightning's  Nest,"  which 
spring  up  abruptly  from  the  plains  and  cover  several  miles  of  area.  I  crossed  the  latter  river 
forty-five  miles,  in  nearly  a  due  west  course,  from  the  crossing  of  the  former.  It  is  about  fifteen 
yards  wide  and  four  feet  deep,  and  has  a  muddy  bottom  and  low  banks. 

Then,  in  a  course  a  few  degrees  south  of  west,  a  gently  rolling  prairie  extends  to  Jacques  or 
James  river,  about  ten  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Grizzly  Bear  creek.  A  few  miles  to  the  north, 
however,  (the  course  traversed  by  my  wagons,)  several  high  sandy  divides  and  rocky  backbones 
rise  considerably  above  the  surrounding  country. 

The  waters  of  the  James  river  flow  into  the  Missouri.  It  is  a  clear,  sluggish  stream,  with  an 
average  width  of  forty-five  yards,  depth  of  five  feet,  and  a  hard,  clayey  bottom.  It  threads  a 
sinuous  course  through  a  rich  valley,  of  from  one  to  three  miles  wide — which,  judging  from  frag 
ments  of  drift-wood,  is  overflowed  at  times  to  a  considerable  extent.  At  points,  however,  the 
overflow  is  confined  within  narrow  limits. 

That  portion  of  the  great  prairie  lying  between  the  James  river  and  the  Missouri  may  be  regarded 
as  divided  into  two  terraces.  The  first  has  its  general  level  about  ninety  feet  above  the  bed  of  the 
James  river,  its  eastern  boundary.  Its  roll  is  very  gentle — so  much  so,  that  the  second  terrace,  or 
"  coteau  of  the  Missouri,"  may  be  frequently  seen  at  a  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles.  There 


488  MISSOURI    RIVER   FROM    GREAT   FALLS   TO   MOUTH   OF   MILK   RIVER. 

are  a  few  small  streams,  having  their  sources  in  springs  a  few  miles  inland,  which  flow  into  the 
river — and  other  deep  ravines,  which  appear  to  be  the  beds  of  streams  during  the  wet  season ; 
but  by  fur  the  greatest  portion  of  the  surface-water  is  collected  in  small  lagoons,  many  of  which 
are  never  dry.  The  soil  is  harder  and  dryer  than  in  the  prairies  previously  passed  over,  and  has 
more  gravel  in  its  composition.  The  valley  of  the  James  river  affords  a  very  little  wood,  fit  only 
for  fuel;  but  between  this  and  the  Mouse  river,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  eighty-six  miles, 
not  a  particle,  of  any  kind,  is  to  be  found. 

Forty-five  miles  from  the  James  river  my  course  struck  the  second  terrace,  or  "  coteau." 
This  is  a  broad  expanse  of  broken  country,  more  or  less  elevated  above  the  first  terrace — irreg 
ular  in  its  boundary,  and  irregular  in  its  topography.  Sections  of  it  are  merely  high-rolling,  with 
sometimes  an  extended  plateau  of  comparatively  even  prairie ;  while  other  portions  are  much 
broken,  sometimes  rising  in  abrupt  peaks  of  no  great  height,  and  again  in  long,  bare  ridges.  Small 
lakes  are  still  very  numerous,  with  the  peculiarity  that  the  waters  of  many  are  more  or  less  salt; 
and,  where  they  may  have  become  partially  dried  up,  white  incrustations  of  salt  are  found  about 
their  margins. 

Where  I  struck  the  coteau  the  prairie  rose  from  eighty  to  a  hundred  feet  in  two  or  three  miles, 
and  for  ten  miles  was  high-rolling  and  abrupt ;  but  at  the  end  of  that  distance,  with  a  slight  and 
gradual  descent,  my  course  struck  a  gently-rolling  plane,  that  extends,  though  not  in  a  direct  line, 
to  that  boundary  of  the  coteau  that  runs  nearly  parallel  to,  but  at  some  distance  from,  the  valley 
of  the  Mouse  river.  Though  obstructions  here  are  not  serious,  it  is  quite  probable  that  more 
advantageous  lines  could  be  found,  to  cross  this  portion  of  the  coteau. 

After  striking  the  valley  of  the  Mouse  river,  my  course  to  Fort  Union  coincided  so  nearly  with 
that  of  the  main  party  of  the  expedition,  that  it  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  write  df  it. 

C.  GROVER, 
Lieutenant  United  States  Army. 

Governor  1. 1.  STEVENS. 


FIXAL  REPORT    OF    LIEUTENANT    C.  GROVER,  OF    HIS    SURVEY  OF    THE    MISSOURI   FROM    THE    GREAT 

FALLS  TO  THE  MOUTH  OF  MILK  RIVER. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  journal  and  report  of  a  survey  of  a  portion  of 
the  Missouri  river. 

On  the  morning  of  the  22d  of  September,  with  a  crew  of  three  men  to  manage  my  craft,  I  cast 
off  from  Fort  Benton  in  a  small  flat-boat  and  floated  down  the  river.  Turning  a  bend  in  the 
river,  we  soon  lost  sight  of  Fort  Benton  and  found  ourselves  shut  in  from  all  outward  objects, 
between  the  high  banks  of  the  river  ;  for  the  Missouri,  from  its  falls  for  many  miles  on  its  way, 
traces  its  course  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  canon  worn  by  its  waters. 

The  faces  of  this  canon  are  generally  very  abrupt  and  bare,  and  approach  quite  close  upon  the 
water-course ;  at  the  same  time  determining  only  the  general  direction  of  the  river,  so  that  each 
detour  of  the  stream  leaves  a  small  rich  interval  in  the  bend,  covered  with  luxuriant  grass,  and 
sometimes  skirted  with  a  few  small  cotton-wood  trees. 

About  11  o'clock  we  passed  the  site  of  an  old  fur-trading  post,  formerly  occupied  by  Mr. 
Harvey,  who  has  now  established  one  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  above  Fort  Benton.  At  12 
o'clock  we  stopped  to  lunch  where  the  river  flows  under  a  high  bank,  composed,  for  nearly  a 
hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  of  blue  marly  earth.  Some  of  the  lower  portions 
of  its  surface  were  covered  with  a  snow-white  incrustation  of  glauber  salts,  which  appeared  to 
have  been  formed  by  evaporation  of  water  percolating  through  the  face  of  the  bank. 

Continuing  on,  we  soon  passed  the  site  of  the  old  trading-post,  Fort  McKey,  marked  by  the 
remains  of  an  old  adobe  wall.  This  fort  was  burned  some  years  ago  by  the  Fur  Company  on 


MISSOURI   RIVER    FROM    GREAT   FALLS   TO   MOUTH   OF   MILK   RIVER.  489 

account  of  some  difficulty  with  the  Indians,  which  rendered  it  advisable  for  the  company  to  with 
draw  their  post  to  some  point  lower  down  the  river.  We  passed  also  three  small  islands  and  a 
large  one  known  by  the  name  of  "Cache  island,"  just  below  which,  and  nearly  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Maria  river,  we  moored  our  boat  for  the  night. 

The  banks  of  the  river  to-day  have  varied  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  in 
height;  its  bed  has  been  very  crooked  and  composed  entirely  of  loose  gravel — the  stream  perfectly 
clear  and  transparent.  The  current  flows  with  a  tolerably  uniform  velocity  of  about  2.7  miles 
per  hour,  except  at  some  points  where  its  unusual  shallowness  gives  a  slight  increase  of  rate. 
The  river  is  considered  at  this  season  of  the  year  to  be  at  its  lowest  stage  of  water;  the  depth  of 
water,  therefore,  found  upon  any  rapid,  may  be  considered  as  the  minimum  depth  for  that  point. 
A  number  of  rapids  and  shallows  have  been  passed  during  the  day,  of  which  the  only  ones 
worthy  of  notice  are,  a  shallow  about  five  miles  below  Fort  Benton,  with  only  fifteen  inches  of 
water  on  the  bar;  one  opposite  the  site  of  old  Fort  McKey,  with  twenty  inches ;  and  one  about 
five  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Marias,  with  twenty-two  inches.  The  increase  of  current  at 
either  of  these  points  is  not  material. 

Beaver  are  very  numerous  along  the  river,  and  they  appear  to  be  very  hard  at  work  laying  in 
their  winter  supply  of  provisions.  At  every  willowy  point  they  have  made  great  havoc  among 
the  willows  and  small  cotton-wood.  They  select  their  winter  quarters  with  a  sharp  eye  to  the 
proximity  to  forage,  and  if  possible  establish  their  domicil  near  a  growth  of  small  cotton-wood. 
In  the  fall  they  fell  what,  in  their  judgment,  is  sufficient  to  last  through  the  winter,  cut  it  into 
convenient  lengths,  and  sink  it  before  the  entrance  of  their  holes.  If  they  are  obliged  to  go  any 
distance  from  the  bank  for  their  supply,  after  it  is  cut  they  pack  it  to  the  water  on  their  backs. 
They  commence  their  labors  immediately  after  dark,  and  continue  them  till  daybreak. 

Soon  after  supper  one  of  our  men  went  out  with  his  rifle  and  shot  three,  but  secured  only  one, 
which  he  shot  through  the  head.  The  other  two  were  only  wounded,  and  they  quietly  betook 
themselves  to  the  bottom  of  the  stream.  They  invariably  sink  unless  instantaneously  killed. 

The  day's  travel  has  been  20.8  miles,  following  the  river. 

September  23. — Last  night  was  quite  cool,  cloudy,  and  windy.  This  morning  was  clear,  cool, 
and  bracing.  My  men  bivouaced  in  a  small  clump  of  willows  on  shore,  but  I  preferred  sleeping 
in  the  boat,  which  had  been  made  very  comfortable  by  springing  bows  over  it  and  covering  it 
with  canvass  to  protect  us  from  the  rain.  The  beaver  killed  last  night  was  dressed,  and  the  most 
of  it,  including  the  tail,  was  cut  up  and  boiled  for  breakfast.  Cooked  in  this  way  it  is  very 
tender  and  well  flavored,  particularly  the  tail,  which  is  a  luxury  that  would  compare  favorably 
with  anything  upon  the  table  of  an  epicure.  It  tasted  to  me  as  much  like  calf 's-foot  jelly  as  any 
thing  I  can  liken  it  to,  though  it  is  very  hearty  and  has  a  peculiar  flavor.  One  tail  is  enough  for 
a  dinner  for  three  men.  The  skin  was  stretched  by  making  perforations  around  the  edge  and 
lacing  it  with  strings  upon  a  hoop  somewhat  larger  in  circumference  than  the  skin.  Its  original 
proprietor  must  have  been  very  industrious,  as  I  observed  he  had  worn  the  fur  nearly  off  both 
his  shoulders  in  carrying  wood. 

Soon  after  commencing  our  day's  journey  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Marias,  a  very  sizeable 
stream  emptying  into  the  Missouri  from  the  north.  Like  the  Missouri,  it  winds  its  way  at  the 
bottom  of  a  wide  and  deep  canon ;  but  the  faces  of  the  canon  are  generally  more  abrupt  than 
those  on  the  latter  river — so  much  so,  that  it  is  a  matter  of  difficulty  sometimes,  to  one  unac 
quainted  with  the  country,  to  find  a  place  where  a  pack-mule  can  be  driven  up  or  down  the 
banks.  The  enclosed  valley  is  from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  wide.  Its  soil  is  rich  and  moist,  and 
supports  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass  and  cotton-wood  in  abundance,  with  some  alder  and  wild- 
cherry  trees.  The  river  at  its  mouth  is  about  one  hundred  yards  wide,  its  water  clear,  and  its 
bottom  rocky.  The  first  trading-post  established  in  the  Blackfoot  country  was  situated  near  its 
junction  with  the  Missouri. 

We  passed  during  the  day  some  small  unwooded  islands.    The  general  character  of  the  banks 
62  / 


490  MISSOURI   RIVER   FROM   GREAT    FALLS   TO   MOUTH   OF   MILK   RIVER. 

has  been  the  same  as  yesterday,  except  at  some  points  they  have  fallen  back  with  a  gradual 
slope  to  the  general  prairie-level,  giving  us  an  occasional  view  of  the  conical  caps  of  the  Bear's 
Paw  and  Highwood  mountains. 

Antelope  are  numerous  upon  the  banks,  but  they  are  wild  and  seem  to  appreciate  the  necessity 
of  keeping  out  of  gun-shot.  A  few  ducks  also  have  been  started,  upon  turning  the  river  bends. 

It  has  been  very  windy  and  somewhat  cloudy  all  day,  and  to-night  the  air  is  cool  and  feels 
like  rain.  The  remarks  of  yesterday  regarding  the  regimen  of  the  river  will  apply  equally  well 
to-day,  except  that  there  is  to-day,  universally,  a  little  more  water  on  the  rapids.  The  shallowest 
ones  are  as  follows,  viz:  One  opposite  the  head  of  Spanish  island,  depth  of  water  two  feet;  one 
about  a  mile  higher  up,  depth  same;  one  about  three  miles  above  camp,  depth  same;  and  one 
three  miles  above  that,  depth  two  feet  two  inches.  At  all  these  points  the  channel  is  good. 

About  3  o'clock  we  camped  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  Its  width  at  this  point  is  247 
yards;  and  thus  far  it  has  varied  between  175  and  260  yards.  As  we  have  been  unable  to  kill 
any  game  to-day,  we  picked  the  remaining  bones  of  the  beaver  for  supper.  Distance  travelled 
by  water  18  miles. 

September  24. — The  wind  continued  high  and  irregular  all  last  night,  but  at  sunrise  it  abated; 
and  though  at  times  the  sky  was  partially  overcast,  the  morning,  on  the  whole,  was  bright  and 
genial.  Such  a  morning  was  well  in  keeping  with  the  beautiful  scenery  with  which  we  were 
soon  surrounded.  Upon  leaving  camp  we  floated  gently  down  the  stream  in  long  sweeping 
curves,  and  passed  several  beautiful  islands  partially  covered  with  a  scattering  cotton-wood 
growth,  with  now  and  then  an  old  inhabitant,  whose  barkless  trunk  and  broken  limbs  marked  the 
effects  of  spring  freshets. 

About  10  o'clock  we  commenced  to  wind  among  the  bluffs  of  the  Bear's  Paw,  and  the  scenery 
assumed  an  entirely  new  phase:  the  bluffs  were  now  more  abrupt  and  crowded  the  river;  col 
onnades  and  odd-detached  pillars  of  partially  cemented  sand,  capped  with  huge  globes  of  light- 
brownish  sandstone,  tower  up  from  their  steep  sides  to  the  height  of  a  hundred  feet  or  more 
above  the  water.  Then  the  action  of  the  weather  upon  the  bluffs  in  the  back-ground  has  worn 
them  into  a  thousand  grotesque  forms ;  while  lower  down  their  faces,  seams  of  volcanic  rock  from 
three  to  six  feet  thick,  with  a  dip  nearly  vertical  and  no  uniform  strike,  beaten  and  cracked  by 
the  weather,  rising  from  six  to  eight  feet  above  the  surface,  run  up  and  down  the  steep  faces  and 
projecting  shoulders  of  the  cliffs — a  most  perfect  imitation  of  dry-stone  walls.  Taking  all  this 
into  view,  it  requires  but  a  little  distance  and  imagination  to  establish  a  pretty  clear  case  of 
"old  ruins." 

About  noon  we  stopped  to  lunch  at  the  base  of  what  is  called  "Citadel  Rock,"  a  vertical 
shaft  of  volcanic  rock  rising  about  two  hundred  feet  above  the  water's  edge,  and  standing  upon 
a  base  of  about  forty  feet  square.  There  are  many  cavities  in  its  faces  large  enough  to  hold  a 
good-sized  apple,  which  are  sometimes  lined  with  crystals  of  carbonate  of  lime.  I  split  off  the 
top  of  a  pretty  large  and  nearly  transparent  one,  which  I  took  away  as  a  specimen. 

About  4  o'clock  we  camped  on  a  narrow  bottom  on  the  north  side  of  the  river.  While  the 
men  sat  about  building  a  fire,  I  followed  a  path  down  the  stream  a  short  distance  to  take  a  look 
round  the  next  bend,  but  had  not  walked  over  two  hundred  yards  when,  chancing  to  look  towards 
the  bluffs,  I  saw  a  fine  big-horn  buck,  walking  with  a  very  dignified  mien  down  a  narrow  path  that 
led  to  the  river,  evidently  in  quest  of  water.  By  quickly  retracing  my  steps  I  escaped  his  obser 
vation,  and  sent  out  one  of  the  men,  who  was  an  excellent  hunter,  in  pursuit  of  him.  With  two 
shots  he  succeeded  in  bringing  him  down,  and  we  soon  had  his  spare-rib  roasting  on  a  stick 
before  the  fire.  The  flesh  of  the  big-horn  is  very  sweet  and  juicy,  and  somewhat  like  antelope 
in  its  flavor. 

Soon  after  camping  a  heavy  wind  arose,  accompanied  with  clouds  and  rain,  and  such  evident 
appearances  of  a  stormy  night,  that  we  pitched  a  tent  which  we  had  taken  along  for  such 
occasions. 


MISSOURI   RIVER    FROM   GREAT    FALLS   TO   MOUTH   OF   MILK   RIVER.  491 

We  have  passed  six  islands  to-day;  the  two  largest  of  them  are  known  as  "  Elk"  and  "Pretty 
Horse"  islands.  The  latter  was  so  called  from  its  having  been  used  by  the  Fur  Company  some 
years  ago  as  a  range  for  their  horses.  Among  a  number  of  rapids  passed  to-day,  the  following 
are  the  most  important,  viz:  One  opposite  Pretty  Horse  island,  depth  two  feet;  one  about  five 
miles  below  that,  depth  one  foot  eleven  inches;  one  known  as  "Kip's  rapids,"  nearly  two  miles 
above  "Citadel  Rock,"  depth  two  feet  one  inch;  and  one  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  above 
camp,  depth  one  foot  eleven  inches.  At  all  these  points  the  channel  was  very  good.  Distance 
travelled  to-day  by  water  21.3  miles. 

The  25th  was  cold,  stormy,  and  windy,  and  we  remained  in  camp  all  day.  After  breakfast  I 
went  up  to  the  bluffs  to  get  a  nearer  view  of  some  of  those  pillars  of  sand,  with  sandstone  caps, 
referred  to  in  yesterday's  journal.  By  climbing  up  a  goat-path,  which,  by  the  way,  was  no  easy 
matter,  I  succeeded  in  getting  on  the  top  of  one  of  the  globes  that  rested  on  a  short  pillar,  and  in 
passing  from  that  to  some  of  the  others  that  were  near  it.  All  the  balls  in  this  clump  were 
nearly  of  the  same  size — between  six  and  eight  feet  in  diameter ;  and,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
detect,  as  perfectly  round  as  if  they  had  been  turned.  They  had  evidently  at  some  remote  period 
formed  part  of  a  stratum  of  sandstone  that  runs  through  the  adjacent  bluffs  and  overlies  a  thick 
stratum  of  partially  cemented  sand ;  and  having  become  detached  from  it  by  frost  or  otherwise, 
had  been  shaped  by  the  action  of  the  weather. 

At  the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  and  in  the  small  runs  that  led  down  to  the  river,  were  traces  of  a 
lignite,  and  in  places*  glauber  salt  had  collected  by  efflorescence  on  the  surface.  During  my 
absence  from  the  camp  the  men  killed  two  more  big-horns.  Width  of  the  river  at  this  point, 
1SOJ  yards. 

September  26. — This  morning  we  selected  the  choicest  portions  of  the  three  big-horns  killed  at 
the  camp,  and  stowed  them  away  in  the  boat  for  future  consumption;  for  the  weather  now  had 
become  so  cold  that  there  was  little  danger  of  its  spoiling  for  the  present,  and  it  was  considered 
decidedly  preferable  to  bacon.  The  remainder  we  left  for  the  wolves,  who  had  prowled  around 
with  great  impatience  for  the  last  twenty- four  hours  for  their  share  of  the  game. 

The  high  and  precipitous  sand  and  sandstone  banks  previously  noticed,  continued  for  a  few 
miles  farther  this  morning,  when  they  became  entirely  changed  in  character,  receding  farther 
from  the  river  and  becoming  less  abrupt,  and  covered  with  a  little  vegetation.  Long  narrow 
bottoms  skirted  the  river  on  one  or  both  sides,  sprinkled  with  cotton-wood  and  covered  with  grass. 

About  11  o'clock  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Arrow  river,  a  small  stream  emptying  into  the  Mis 
souri  on  the  south  side.  There  is  some  timber  here,  though  not  much  of  a  width  of  interval. 
This  is  the  point  where  the  Fur  Company  established  Fort  Cotton  after  abandoning  old  Fort 
McKey.  There  are  scarcely  any  traces  of  the  old  stockade  left  now. 

About  five  miles  lower  down  the  river  the  bluffs  become  very  high,  and  receding  on  both  sides, 
but  much  more  regular  and  less  broken  on  the  south  than  on  the  north  side  of  the  river.  There 
are  some  traces  of  vegetation  on  the  bluffs,  but  no  wood  except  a  scattering  growth  of  small 
stunted  pines,  which  confine  themselves  entirely  to  the  higher  portions,  and  looked  as  if  they 
scratched  together  a  livelihood  with  a  great  deal  of  difficulty  up  there. 

Soon  after  4  o'clock  we  camped  in  a  fine,  broad  and  well-wooded  bottom,  between  the  mouths 
of  the  Judith  and  Dog  rivers.  The  Judith  is  a  small  clear  stream  with  a  rocky  bottom,  rising  in 

*  A  subsequent  analyzation  by  Dr.  A.  A.  Hayes,  of  Boston,  of  a  small  quantity  collected,  gave  the  following  component  parts  : 

In  100  moisture 3.20 

Sulphate  of  lime 5.60 

Sulphate  of  alumina  and  iron 3.52 

Sulphate  of  soda..., „ 43.40 

Insoluble  sand , „ , 44.00 

99.72 


492  MISSOURI    RIVER    FROM    GREAT    FALLS    TO    MOUTH   OF   MILK   RIVER. 

the  Judith  mountains,  lying  some  distance  in  a  southwestern  direction  from  its  mouth.     The  Dog 
river,  a  smaller  stream,  has  its  mouth  about  a  mile  lower  down. 

Their  vallevs  are  quite  wide  near  the  Missouri,  and  run  into  each  other  about  a  mile  from  it, 
forming  the  most  extensive  bottom  yet  passed.  Last  night  it  rained  nearly  all  night,  and  in  the 
fore-part  of  it  some  snow  fell,  which,  however,  melted  immediately.  This  morning  it  was  wet, 
cold,  and  uncomfortable,  and  remained  so  till  about  noon,  when  it  stopped  raining,  but  remained 
cloudy  all  day. 

Teal  and  mallard  duck  have  been  plenty  to-day,  and  easily  approached;  just  before  going  into 
camp  we  killed  two  of  the  latter,  which  we  afterwards  made  into  a  stew  for  supper.  No  one 
with  a  good  gun  need  want  for  provisions  along  the  river,  for  game  is  swarming  in  its  waters  and 
on  its  banks. 

The  only  rapids  to-day  that  deserve  mention  are,  1st,  one  known  as  "  Pablieu's,"  depth  of 
water  one  foot  eleven  inches — channel  good;  2d,  one  half  a  mile  above  Arrow  river,  depth  two 
feet,  with  several  rolling  boulders,  weighing  a  ton  or  less,  in  it.  These  boulders  get  frozen  to  the 
under  surface  of  the  ice  in  winter,  when  the  water  is  low  higher  up  the  river,  and  are  carried 
down  with  it  when  it  breaks  up  in  the  spring,  and  rasped  off'  in  shallow  places  as  the  ice  goes 
down.  They  are  uncertain  visitors,  and  remain  but  one  season  in  a  place.  Distance  travelled 
to-day  20.3  miles. 

September  27. — On  leaving  camp  to-day  we  took  leave  for  a  while  of  many  of  the  wild  beauties 
of  nature  which  lay  scattered  along  the  river  in  an  ever-varying  panorama,  to  take  a  view  of 
the  other  side  of  the  picture  of  nature's  wild  deformities — a  masterpiece  in  its  way.  The 
"  Mauvaises  Terres,"  or  Bad  Lands,  which  this  section  is  very  appropriately  called,  is  charac 
terized  by  a  total  absence  of  anything  which  could  by  any  possibility  give  pleasure  to  the  eye,  or 
gratification  to  the  mind,  by  any  associations  of  utility.  Not  an  island,  nor  a  shrub  of  any 
account — nothing  but  huge  bare  piles  of  mud,  towering  up  as  high  as  they  can  stand,  and  crowd 
ing  each  other  for  room.  The  banks,  varying  from  200  to  300  feet  in  height,  were  of  this  nature 
on  both  sides  of  the  river  all  day. 

I  was  told  that  the  land  was  of  the  same  character  for  some  miles  back,  on  both  sides;  I  was 
unable  to  get  a  look  at  it  myself.  After  camping  I  did  try  to  climb  up  to  the  top  of  one  of  them, 
but  the  surface  was  saturated  with  water,  and  when  I  got  half  or  two-thirds  of  the  way  up  I  was 
invariably  treated  to  a  slide  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet  down  again.  After  several  fruitless  attempts  I 
gave  it  up  in  disgust.  There  is  a  curious  crag  of  rock  on  the  profile  of  the  hill,  about  two  hundred 
feet  above  the  water,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  nearly  opposite  our  camp,  which  from  some 
positions  looks  like  a  human  head  down  to  the  shoulders.  The  resemblance  is  so  striking  that  it 
is  called  the  "  Good  Child's  Head,"  and  has  become  a  landmark  on  the  river. 

An  unusual  number  of  rapids  have  been  passed  to-day :  one  about  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of 
Little  Dog  river  has  one  foot  eleven  inches  of  water  on  it — channel  good.  Another  a  mile  below 
that,  two  feet  three  inches  of  water  in  the  channel,  with  several  rolling  stones  on  each  side  of  it. 
But  the  worst  place,  by  far,  yet  found  in  the  river,  is  what  is  called  "  Dauphan's  rapid :"  the 
water  here  was  only  one  foot  eight  inches  deep;  rate  of  current,  which  is  the  greatest  yet  found 
anywhere,  was  nearly  five  miles  an  hour,  and  in  addition  several  rolling  stones  were  found 
lodged  on  the  bar.  All  the  other  rapids  had  two  feet  three  inches  and  upwards  of  water,  and 
good  channels.  The  day  has  been  cold,  cloudy,  windy,  and  uncomfortable,  a  very  fair  accompa 
niment  to  the  scenery.  Distance  made  to-day  19.2  miles. 

September  28. — To-day  has  been  very  agreeable,  though  at  times  a  little  cloudy  and  windy. 
But  the  banks,  as  far  as  the  "  Mauvaise  Terre"  extends,  which  is  to  within  two  miles  of  camp, 
are  just  as  abruptly  broken  and  hopelessly  barren  as  yesterday.  There  have  been,  however, 
narrow  strips  of  passable  bottom-land,  with  now  and  then  a  little  wood  on  one  or  the  other  side. 
About  12  o'clock  1  met  Mr.  Harvey's  hunter,  in  advance  of  his  keel-boat,  from  whom  I  under 
stood  they  were  about  forty  days  from  the  Yellowstone.  Soon  after  we  met  the  boat  itself,  which 


MISSOURI   RIVER   PROM    GREAT    FALLS    TO    MOUTH   OF    MILK   RIVER.  493 

his  party  were  corclelling  up  the  river,  heavily  laden  with  Indian  goods.  The  draughts  of  these 
keel-boats  vary  from  twenty-eight  inches  to  three  feet ;  consequently,  when  ascending  the  river 
late  in  the  season,  they  are  at  times  forced  to  lighten  them  over  the  worst  rapids. 

Game  in  the  Mauvaise  Terre  has  been  corparatively  very  scarce ;  antelope  arid  big-horn  do 
occasionally  come  down  from  the  bluffs  to  drink,  but  they  evidently  don't  find  sufficient  attrac 
tions  about  the  locality  to  induce  them  to  prolong  their  stay.  As  to  us,  we  are  perfectly  willing 
to  leave  it,  and  look  forward  to  something  less  monotonous. 

There  are  three  bad  points  in  the  river,  passed  to-day :  first,  a  shallow,  about  four  miles  below 
our  last  camp,  where  the  river  spreads  out  much  broader  than  usual ;  depth  of  water  one  foot 
eleven  inches — channel  otherwise  good.  Second,  what  is  called  the  "  Three  Channels :"  the 
water  here  is  divided  by  a  gravelly  bar ;  depth  two  feet  two  inches;  channel  crooked.  And 
third,  and  worst,  the  rapid  opposite  "  Cow  island."  There  is  but  one  foot  nine  inches  of  water 
in  the  channel.  The  water  is  here  divided  into  three  parts  :  one  a  stream  running  round  "  Cow 
island  ;"  another  making  between  "  Cow  island"  and  a  sand-bar ;  and  the  other,  the  main  one, 
passing  to  the  left  of  all.  The  width  of  the  river  at  camp  is  228  yards.  Distance  made  to-day, 
26.3  miles. 

September  29. — We  are  rapidly  approaching  a  more  inhabitable  country.  The  bluffs  are  less 
high  and  more  sloping,  and  covered  with  grass.  The  bottoms  along  the  river  increase  in  width 
and  richness  of  soil,  and  fields  of  rank  grass  alternate  with  thick  groves  of  cotton-wood,  cherry, 
and  willow.  The  larger  points  of  timber  at  this  season  of  the  year  are  overrun  with  bands  of  elk 
and  deer,  which  seek  the  protection  of  the  thickets  from  the  cold  autumn  storms. 

The  bed  of  the  stream,  which  was  before  rocky,  is  now  at  times  sandy  or  muddy,  and  supports 
an  occasional  snag,  and  the  water  grows  turbid  and  Missouri-like. 

About  half-past  4  o'clock,  when  we  began  to  think  about  camping,  we  suddenly  came  upon  a 
large  band  of  elk,  on  a  sandy  beach  in  a  sunny  nook  of  the  river,  enjoying  themselves,  each 
according  to  his  own  fancy.  Some  were  lying  down ;  some  were  practising  the  art  of  self- 
defence  with  their  horns,  while  others  were  looking  on.  Upon  seeing  us,  however,  they  all  dis 
appeared  into  the  timber,  except  one,  the  patriarch  of  the  flock,  who  remained  behind  to  cover 
the  retreat  of  the  others,  and  satisfy  his  own  native  curiosity.  But  he  lost  his  life  by  his  temerity, 
and  we  gained  a  skin  and  pair  of  horns — nothing  more,  for  he  was  too  old  and  rank  to  furnish 
very  delectable  steaks. 

Before  sunset  I  followed  a  buffalo  trail  to  the  top  of  a  high  hill  near  at  hand,  from  which  I 
could  see  the  surrounding  country — a  woodless  rolling  prairie,  running  back  in  the  distance  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  extend.  While  standing  there,  looking  at  the  several  herds  of  buffalo  grazing  in 
the  distance,  I  noticed  as  many  as  twenty  wolves,  sneaking,  with  their  tails  between  their  legs, 
from  different  quarters  towards  our  camp.  They  had  learnt  the  news  of  the  dead  elk.  There 
are  a  few  scattering  pines  on  the  bluffs  along  here ;  also  some  short,  scrubby,  red  cedar,  covered 
with  berries,  but  no  other  shrub. 

About  two  miles  above  camp  we  passed  a  small  stream,  making  in  from  the  north,  which  my 
pilot  said  was  called  "  Little  Rocky  Mountain  river,"  and  was  never  dry,  as  many  of  the  small 
streams  are,  late  in  the  summer.  Another  small  stream  coming  in  from  the  south — without  a 
name — was  passed  a  little  below  "Two  Calf"  island.  Of  the  rapids,  one  opposite  "  Two  Calf" 
island  has  two  feet  of  water,  with  a  few  large  loose  rocks  near  the  channel.  All  the  others  have 
upwards  of  two  feet  of  water,  and  good  channels.  Distance  travelled  to-day  28.2  miles. 

September  30. — It  was  cold  this  morning,  and  frosty,  and  the  trees  glistened  like  crystals  in  the 
rising  sun,  as  we  pulled  up  stakes  and  cast  off  into  the  stream.  We  can  appreciate  a  bright 
sunny  day  again,  as  we  have  not  had  the  like  for  about  a  week.  The  river  winds  with  longer 
and  more  regular  curves,  leaving  heavily-wooded  points  of  timber,  bounded  on  three  sides  by  the 
channel,  alternating  from  side  to  side.  The  channel,  too,  is  much  improved  ;  there  are  no  rapids 
to  obstruct  it,  and  a  greater  depth  of  water.  The  river  bed,  which  was  before  mostly  gravel,  is 


494  MISSOURI    RIVER    FROM    GREAT    FALLS    TO    MOUTH    OF   MILK   RIVER. 

now  becoming  mostly  clay  and  sand,  and  the  few  islands  passed  to-day  have  been  pointed  off  by 
sand-bars  at  both  ends,  Missouri  fashion.  The  bluffs  are  lower  and  more  receding  than  yester 
day,  particularly  on  the  north  side. 

About  2  o'clock  we  came  unexpectedly  upon  a  band  of  elk,  swimming  the  river,  and  suc 
ceeded  in  killing  a  fine  doe,  which  came  very  opportunely,  as  our  supply  of  big-horn  was  entirely 
exhausted.  About  5  o'clock  we  camped  on  the  head  of  a  large  wooded  island,  under  the  banks 
of  which  there  were  a  great  number  of  beaver  lodges.  About  sunset  two  buffalo  came  down 
from  the  main  land  and  swam  the  river,  just  below  camp.  Intent  upon  getting  a  hump  rib,  I 
started  in  pursuit,  and  by  creeping  along  under  cover  of  a  deep  fringe  of  willows,  approached 
within  ten  paces  of  the  hindmost  one,  and,  taking  deliberate  aim  about  two  feet  below  the  hump, 
which  was  the  only  part  to  be  seen  above  the  willows,  fired.  The  old  bull  (as  it  turned  out  to 
be)  elevated  his  short  tail  straight  in  the  air,  and,  with  one  grunt,  put  off  at  full  speed  into  the 
woods ;  and  though  I  trailed  him,  by  the  blood,  for  more  than  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  I  lost  him 
at  last ;  probably  in  some  thicket,  where  he  deposited  himself  for  the  benefit  of  the  wolves.  A 
sick  or  wounded  animal  stands  but  a  little  chance  of  recovery,  for  the  wolves  follow  and  harass 
him  till,  through  exhaustion,  he  lies  down  perfectly  helpless,  when  they  proceed  to  make  a  meal 
of  him  before  the  life  is  out  of  his  body.  Distance  travelled  to-day,  30  miles. 

October  1. — This  morning  was  clear  and  frosty  again,  and  every  sound  was  echoed  and  re 
echoed  with  long  vibrations  as  we  floated  down  the  stream. 

The  river  to-day  is  in  all  respects  very  similar  to  what  it  was  yesterday,  but  gradually  grow 
ing  a  little  wider.  The  banks  on  both  sides  are  somewhat  broken,  and  in  places  quite  high. 
The  general  course  of  the  river  changed  about  9  o'clock  from  nearly  southeast  to  nearly  due 
south  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Muscle  Shell,  a  very  considerable  stream  emptying  in  from  the 
south,  which  was  passed  about  noon.  I  did  not  measure  its  width,  but  judged  it  to  be  consider 
ably  less  than  one  hundred  yards.  It  is  very  low  now,  bat  earlier  in  the  season  it  probably  throws 
in  a  large  body  of  water.  Its  bed  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  Missouri  at  its  junction  ;  and,  like 
it,  it  is  skirted  with  low  grounds  well  covered  with  cotton-wood. 

A  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Muscle  Shell  we  stopped  to  lunch,  and  afterwards 
picked  up  several  interesting  specimens  of  fossil  remains  of  shell-fish  of  different  forms  and  sizes, 
and  procured  others  still  more  perfect,  by  breaking  open  loose  fragments  of  limestone  that  had 
fallen  down  from  the  banks. 

About  2  o'clock,  coming  to  a  portion  of  the  river  comparatively  straight,  we  saw  a  herd  of 
buffalo  on  the  bank  about  two  miles  below,  preparing  to  cross.  They  did  not  all  descend  to  the 
water's  edge  at  once,  but  one  or  two  pioneers  and  leaders  of  the  band  kept  in  advance,  apparently 
to  try  the  bottom  lest  it  should  prove  miry,  and  the  whole  herd  get  swamped.  The  bottom 
proving  satisfactory,  the  leaders  plunged  in,  followed  by  the  whole  band,  who  landed  safe  on  the 
other  side.  One  would  think  they  found  it  very  hard  work,  for  in  swimming  they  grunt  so  as  to 
be  heard  distinctly  a  mile.  Below  this  they  have  learned  by  experience  to  be  very  cautious  in 
selecting  a  crossing-place,  for  the  flats  near  the  water's  edge  are  sometimes  nothing  but  quick 
sand,  or  ..tenacious  clay,  very  difficult  to  work  through.  At  one  point,  some  distance  below  the 
rnouth  of  Milk  river,  I  saw  five  wolves  hopelessly  mired  near  a  dead  buffalo,  who  had  met  with 
the  same  fate.  We  went  ashore,  and  found  that  the  clay  was  so  much  dried  up  as  to  admit  of  our 
approaching  their  place  of  incarceration,  when,  by  dint  of  prying  with  sticks  and  pulling  at  their 
tails,  we  succeeded  in  releasing  them,  so  much  exhausted  as  to  be  scarcely  able  to  crawl.  They 
must  have  lain  there  a  week. 

But  to  return  to  the  buffalo :  one  of  the  men  killed  one,  a  fat  cow,  and  we  selected  the  finest 
parts  and  went  on  our  way. 

Camped  about  3  o'clock.  At  about  5  p.  m.  one  of  the  men,  who  had  been  out  hunting,  came 
in  and  said  he  had  seen  a  "  war  party"  of  about  sixty  Blackfeet  going  into  camp,  just  around  the 
bend  above  us.  Such  neighbors  are  by  no  means  pleasant ;  and  not  having  any  particular  desire 


MISSOURI   RIVER   FROM   GREAT   FALLS   TO   MOUTH   OF   MILK  RIVER.  495 

at  that  time  to  be  kept  up  the  most  of  the  night  watching  our  "traps"  and  talking  about  the  "Great 
Father  at  Washington,"  which  would  have  been  the  case  had  we  been  discovered,  I  gave  them 
the  slip  by  dropping  down  about  two  miles,  and  camping  upon  the  foot  of  an  island.  Distance 
travelled  to-day  28.7  miles. 

October  2. — There  are  very  few  points  now  in  the  channel  where  a  rocky  bottom  is  to  be  found. 
The  water  is  quite  turbid,  and  snags  and  sawyers  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  The  general  course 
of  the  river  after  passing  the  mouth  of  the  Muscle  Shell  about  two  miles,  is  nearly  due  north  for 
about  ten ;  so  that  a  long  tongue  of  land  is  formed  by  the  great  southern  bend  of  the  river,  which 
is  not  more  than  four  miles  wide.  The  banks  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  are  still  quite  high 
and  much  broken,  and  a  few  scrubby  pines  and  dwarf  cedars  are  to  be  seen  near  their  tops. 
Incrustations  of  glauber  salt  whiten  the  banks  in  many  places ;  a  peculiarity  by  no  means  local, 
but,  on  the  contrary,  of  very  general  occurrence  all  along  the  river.  On  landing  at  noon  we 
picked  up  some  more  specimens  of  fossil  shell-fish,  also  some  conglomerated  fossil  marine  shells, 
in  which  the  cementing  substance  was  carbonate  of  lime.  This  fossiliferous  region  appears 
pretty  extensive.  What  specimens  I  collected  I  picked  up  accidentally,  as  it  was  not  my  object 
to  make  a  collection,  had  I  had  the  means  of  carrying  them.  This  afternoon  we  again  entered 
the  Mauvaise  Terre,  very  similar  to  the  Bad  Lands  already  passed,  except  that  the  bluffs  do  not 
crowd  the  river  so  closely.  Game  is  very  abundant,  especially  beaver.  One  point  was  passed 
to-day,  \vhere,  for  more  than  a  mile,  they  had  cut  down  all  the  available  trees  on  the  banks  :  the 
diameter  of  some  of  those  felled  was  at  least  16  inches.  Wolves  and  large  gray  owls  are  more 
plenty  than  they  have  been,  judging  from  the  din  they  keep  up  all  night.  Distance  travelled 
to-day  29.5  miles. 

October  3. — There  was  a  slight  frost  last  night,  and  this  morning  was  bright  and  clear ;  and  il 
has  been  fair  all  day,  but  to-night  it  is  dark  and  murky  in  the  west,  as  if  preparing  for  rain.  The 
adjacent  country  preserves  the  broken,  barren  character  of  yesterday.  Fossils,  similar  to  those 
collected  yesterday,  were  noticed  to-day  ;  also  spherical  nodules  of  argillaceous  iron  ore,  about 
as  big  as  oranges,  were  found  lying  about  on  the  surface  in  some  localities.  Some  of  these  were 
simply  spherical,  made  up  of  concentric  layers  ;  while  others  consisted  of  a  number  of  spheres  in 
combination,  or  of  a  scoriaceous  mass  of  imperfect  spheres  about  the  size  of  a  pea,  or  a  little 
larger. 

About  3  o'clock  we  passed  a  conical-shaped  mountain,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  river, 
which  is  so  peculiar  on  account  of  its  position  and  regularity  of  form,  that  it  has  become  a  land 
mark,  and  is  called  half-way  between  Fort  Benton  and  the  Yellowstone,  though  its  distance  is 
somewhat  greater  from  the  former  than  from  the  latter  place.  A  great  number  of  buffalo  have 
been  seen  to-day,  but  no  other  game  of  any  consequence.  Distance  travelled,  32.4  miles. 

October  4  — To-day  has  been  quite  pleasant,  notwithstanding  the  untoward  appearance  of  last 
night.  The  river  has  now  become  quite  similar,  in  every  respect,  to  the  Lower  Missouri.  It  is 
nearly  as  wide;  its  bottom  is  sandy,  and  broad,  shifting  sand-bars  render  the  channel  about  as 
uncertain.  The  adjacent  bottoms  increase  in  width,  richness  of  soil,  and  density  of  growth. 
The  bluffs  on  the  north  side  have  declined  and  receded  very  much,  being  now  nothing  more  than 
the  breaking  down  of  the  high  rolling  prairie  to  the  immediate  valley  of  the  river.  But  to  the 
south  they  are  still  quite  high  and  abrupt,  but  have  more  grass  on  them.  Several  bands  of  elk, 
and  some  buffalo,  were  seen  on  the  banks  to-day,  and  one  fine  cow  was  killed  soon  after  going 
into  camp.  Distance  made,  31.3  miles. 

October  5. — Was  a  warm,  hazy  day.  The  regimen  of  the  river  and  topographical  features  of 
the  banks  remain  the  same  as  noted  yesterday. 

About  11  o'clock,  as  we  turned  a  bend  in  the  river,  we  saw  a  grizzly  bear  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  below  us,  walking  leisurely  towards  the  river,  probably  after  a  drink.  He  appears  to  have 
discovered  us,  too,  about  the  same  time,  and  to  have  been  somewhat  confused  in  his  own  mind 
as  to  what  to  make  of  us.  He  probably  had  never  seen  such  a  craft  as  ours  before ;  and  con- 


496  MISSOURI    RIVER    FROM    GREAT    FALLS    TO    MOUTH    OF   MILK   RIVER. 

eluding  to  look  into  the  matter  further,  he  took  a  seat  to  await  our  approach.  When  nearly  oppo 
site  to  him,  he  arose  on  his  hind  legs  and  looked  at  the  novelty  a  moment,  then,  with  extended 
arms  and  an  open  countenance,  advanced  towards  us  till  the  water  was  somewhat  above  his 
knees,  and  there  awaited  our  approach.  But  he  had  not  to  wait  long,  for  two  ounce-balls  from 
our  rifles  gave  him  a  fatal  wound,  with  which  he  was  only  able  to  crawl  about  one  hundred 
y;trds,  to  fall,  for  the  last  time,  a  victim  of  misplaced  confidence.  He  measured  seven  feet  from 
tip  of  nose  to  tail — not  over  a  medium  size,  if  it  is  that.  Buffalo,  elk,  deer,  antelope,  ducks,  and 
geese,  were  observed  in  unusual  numbers  to-day.  Camped  about  4  o'clock  in  the  Big  Dry  fork 
of  the  Missouri.  Distance  travelled,  25.5  miles. 

October  6. — Remained  in  camp  on  account  of  high  winds.  The  Big  Dry  river,  near  which  we 
camped,  is  quite  remarkable  at  this  season;  though  its  bed  is  four  hundred  and  seventy-two 
yards  wide,  (about  the  width  of  the  Missouri  at  this  point,)  there  is  not  a  drop  of  water  in  it. 
Its  bed  is  composed  of  fine  brown  sand,  like  that  of  the  Missouri,  and  it  has  a  wide  valley  quite 
well  wooded,  and  but  for  want  of  water,  would  be,  in  every  respect,  as  respectable  a  river  as 
the  Missouri.  During  the  early  part  of  the  season,  it  throws  in  a  considerable  amount  of  water; 
and  even  now,  is  said  to  contain  a  little  above  its  mouth,  which  finds  its  way  to  the  Missouri  by 
seeping  through  the  sands  below  the  bottom. 

Octob(r  7. — On  the  morning  of  the  7th  we  left  the  shore,  with  the  pleasing  anticipation  of  soon 
passing  the  mouth  of  the  Milk  river.  The  channel  was  found  to  be  worse  than  it  had  been  for 
many  days,  for  the  water  was  often  divided  by  sand-bars  into  many  channels  of  nearly  the  same 
dimensions. 

About  half-past  10  o'clock  we  passed  "  El  Paso"  Point,  where  the  steamboat  of  that  name 
had  unloaded  its  cargo,  the  outfit  for  the  Blackfoot  trading-post  in  the  summer  of  1853.  This  is 
the  highest  point  to  which  a  steamboat  has  yet  ascended  the  river. 

About  2  p.  m.  we  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Milk  river,  which,  though  very  low,  measured 
120  yards  in  width.  Its  bottom  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  Missouri  at  its  junction;  its  valley 
is  broad  and  well  wooded.  Distance  of  the  mouth  of  the  river  from  last  camp,  21  miles. 

The  only  objects  of  the  survey  of  that  portion  of  the  Missouri  to  which  the  foregoing  journal 
relates,  was  to  ascertain  its  geographical  position  and  to  collect  facts  bearing  upon  its  naviga 
bility  by  steamboats.  The  depth  of  water,  and  other  important  features,  as  found  in  the  latter 
part  of  September,  have  already  been  noted ;  what  remains  now,  then,  to  be  spoken  of,  are  the 
changes  to  which  the  river  is  subject  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  together  with  the  conclusions 
to  be  drawn  therefrom. 

In  this  latter  part,  it  is  necessary  to  depend  somewhat  upon  local  information.  It  is,  however, 
very  reliable,  as  it  comes  from  members  of  the  Fur  Company,  who  have  lived  in  the  country  for 
years. 

The  fact  of  this  part  of  the  river  lying  near  its  sources  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  would  natu 
rally  lead  one  to  suppose  that  the  changes  in  its  volume  of  water  from  month  to  month  would  be 
nearly  the  same,  for  the  same  month,  from  year  to  year.  This  is  found  to  be  the  case  as  winter 
breaks  up  and  warmer  weather  gradually  comes  on  in  the  spring,  the  ice  becomes  rotten,  and 
the  river  swollen  by  the  melting  of  the  snow  in  the  valley ;  and  as  early  as  the  first  of  May,  the 
river  is  clear.  Such  is  the  great  range  of  elevation,  and  consequently  the  great  range  of  temper 
ature,  covered  by  this  feeding  reservoir  of  snow,  that  instead  of  melting  in  the  short  space  of  a 
month  and  swelling  the  river  to  a  torrent,  the  process  of  melting  commences  with  the  valleys  in 
early  spring,  and  goes  on  gradually  to  higher  elevations  as  the  season  advances,  constantly 
diminishing,  of  course,  till  August,  when  all  that  has  a  sensible  effect  upon  the  river  is  expended, 
when  it  commences  falling  more  rapidly  till  the  latter  part  of  September.  The  minimum  addi 
tional  depth  of  water  above  that  of  the  latter  part  of  September,  according  to  the  information 
above  referred  to,  is  as  follows,  viz:  For  the  1st  of  June,  3  feet;  1st  of  July,  2£  feet;  1st  of 
August,  2  feet;  and  1st  of  September,  1  foot. 


MISSOURI    RIVER   FROM   GREAT  FALLS   TO   MOUTH   OF   MILK   RIVER.  497 

It  would  then  seem  that,  up  to  the  1st  of  August,  there  is  water  enough  for  navigation  by  boats 
of  three-feet  draught  loaded;  and  up  to  the  1st  of  September,  for  boats  of  two-feet  draught;  and 
later  than  the  20th  of  September,  for  boats  not  exceeding  eighteen  inches  in  draught. 

The  velocity  of  the  current  upon  the  swiftest  rapids  was  little  less  than  five  miles  per  hour. 
When  the  water  is  a  little  higher,  however,  the  rapids  are  all  lost  sight  of,  and  the  current  is 
nearly  uniform,  but  rapid.  What  might  be  found  to  form  a  serious  obstruction,  as  the  water  gets 
low,  are  large  rolling  stones  sometimes  left  on  shallow  places;  but  as  they  rarely,  if  ever,  weigh 
over  a  ton,  they  could  easily  be  removed  by  grappling- hooks  made  for  the  purpose,  with  which  a 
boat  might  rapidly  hitch  on  to  them  and  drop  down  to  deeper  water. 

The  boat  required  for  low-water  navigation  should  combine  the  following  important  points, 
viz:  veiy  light  draught,  and  great  power  in  comparison  to  it;  great  facility  in  making  short  turns, 
and  ability  to  stem  a  current  exceeding  five  miles  per  hour. 

Soon  after  returning  to  Fort  Benton,  we  visited  the  falls  of  Missouri,  which  lie  in  nearly  a 
southwestern  direction,  about  seventy-five  miles  by  land  from  the  fort.  There  are  five  principal 
cascades.  The  first,  about  three  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Sun  river,  falls  about  twenty-five 
feet.  The  second,  nearly  three  miles  below  the  first,  is  a  small  crooked  cascade  of  five  feet 
eleven  inches  pitch.  Immediately  below  is  the  third.  Here,  between  high  banks,  a  ledge, 
nearly  as  straight  as  if  formed  by  art,  runs  obliquely  across  the  river,  over  which  the  waters  fall 
forty-two  feet  in  one  continuous  sheet  of  four  hundred  and  seventy  yards  in  width.  At  the  foot 
of  this  cascade,  so  beautiful  for  its  length  and  regularity,  is  a  small  island,  covered  with  willow, 
cotton-wood,  and  wild  cherry.  Half  a  mile  below  this  again  is  the  fourth — a  small  irregular  fall 
of  about  twelve  feet  descent.  There  is  a  small  knot  of  an  island  near  the  middle,  and  between 
that  and  the  right  bank  of  the  river  the  ledge  of  the  fall  is  very  crooked,  and  the  water  reaches 
the  basin  below  in  two  pitches.  But  between  the  island  and  the  left  bank,  there  is  simply  a  suc 
cession  of  rapids ;  the  stream  then  hurries  on,  lashed  and  churned  by  numerous  rapids,  about 
five  miles  farther,  where  it  precipitates  itself  over  a  precipice  of  seventy-six  feet  in  height.  This 
is  the  fifth  and  "Great  Fall"  of  the  Missouri.  The  banks  are  high  and  abrupt  on  both  sides, 
and  above  and  below,  deep  ravines,  with  bare,  steep  sides,  extend  out  into  the  prairie  from  one 
to  two  miles.  But  opposite  the  fall,  on  the  north  side,  a  narrow  tongue  of  waving  prairie  runs 
near  to  the  river,  and  breaks  off  in  terraces  to  a  small  bottom  below  the  cascade.  The  lower 
plain,  embracing  two  or  three  acres,  is  a  rounded  point  of  land,  which,  with  a  rock-bound 
shoulder,  half  encircles  the  basin  of  the  cascade,  and  for  a  short  distance  below  confines  the 
water-course  to  half  its  usual  width.  Near  its  head,  a  broken  and  disconnected  ledge  of  rocks 
rises  some  thirty  feet  or  more  above  the  water ;  but  lower  down  there  is  some  soil,  and  a  few 
scattered  cotton-wood,  willow,  and  cherry  trees. 

Below  the  falls  there  is  a  continuation  of  rapids,  which  become  less  and  less  frequent  to  the 
mouth  of  the  "Highwood  creek."  Steep  banks,  about  two  hundred  feet  high,  crowd  closely 
upon  the  river,  and  on  the  north  side  are  so  cut  up  by  precipitous  ravines  that  it  is  almost  impos 
sible  to  keep  near  the  water-course.  From  a  few  miles  above  "  Highwood  creek,"  however,  to 
Fort  Benton,  the  river-bends  are  longer,  and  the  receding  bluffs  often  have  small  intervals  be 
tween  them  and  the  stream.  These  generally  occur  on  the  concave  side  of  a  bend.  A  quite 
extensive  bottom  of  this  kind  is  divided  by  the  "  Highwood  creek."  Should  it  ever  be  found 
necessary  to  establish  a  military  post  in  this  vicinity,  this  position  would  combine  many  advan 
tages  of  location.  The  soil  is  good  and  grass  is  plentiful,  both  on  the  bottoms  and  on  the  adja 
cent  high  prairies.  The  banks  of  the  creek  near  the  river  are  well  supplied  with  cotton-wood 
for  fuel,  while  several  miles  higher  up  in  the  Highwood  mountains,  pine  timber,  for  building  pur 
poses,  is  of  easy  access,  and  can  be  floated  down  the  stream.  This  is  where  the  fur  traders  get 
their  building  pine. 

Below  the  mouth  of  the  Highwood  there  are  no  rapids  of  any  consequence  to  Fort  Benton,  and 
63/ 


4P8  FROM    HEADWATERS    OF   THE    MISSOURI   TO    DALLES   OF   THE   COLUMBIA. 

the  river  and  its  banks  much  resemble  that  portion  of  the  stream  between  the  fort  and  the  mouth 
of  the  Marias. 

C.  GROVER, 

Lieutenant  United  States  Army. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS. 


FINAL    REPORT    OF    LIEUTENANT    C.  GROVER,  OF    HIS    EXAMINATIONS    ON    A    TRIP  FROM  THE  HEAD 
WATERS    OF    THE    MISSOURI    TO    THE    DALLES    OF    THE    COLUMBIA. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  journal  of  my  trip  from  the  headwaters  of  the 
Missouri  to  the  Dalles  on  the  Columbia,  embracing  observations  upon  the  depth  of  snow,  and  the 
general  character  of  the  climate  during  mid-winter  along  the  route  taken  by  the  main  party  of  the 
expedition  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Donelson. 

After  returning  from  the  survey  of  that  portion  of  the  Missouri  intrusted  to  my  charge,  I 
remained  at  Fort  Benton,  on  the  Missouri,  until  the  second  day  of  January,  1854.  Up  to  this 
date  but  very  little  snow  had  fallen  in  this  section  of  the  country,  and  what  had  fallen  covered 
the  ground  but  a  few  days  at  a  time.  The  weather,  as  a  general  thing,  had  been  mild  and  even, 
and  the  stock  of  the  Fur  Company,  though  depending  solely  upon  the  range  for  subsistence,  and 
without  shelter  or  care,  were  in  fine  condition.  The  Missouri  had  for  a  short  time  in  the  month 
of  December  been  closed  with  ice,  but  on  New  Year's  was  entirely  open. 

My  instructions  contemplated  the  use  of  dog-trains  as  transportation.  On  the  first  of  January 
everything  was  prepared,  with  this  end  in  view.  We  had  four  trains;  each  train  consisted  sim 
ply  of  a  thin  ash  board,  about  ten  feet  long  and  ten  inches  wide,  turned  up  like  a  sled  in  front, 
with  four  cross-bars  from  front  to  rear,  to  keep  it  from  splitting  and  to  lash  packing-straps  to. 
The  loads  were  done  up  in  long  narrow  sacks,  to  admit  of  being  readily  packed  upon  the  trains. 
They  consisted  of  the  bedding  of  our  party — five  men  in  all — what  cooking  utensils  were  indis 
pensably  necessary,  and  our  provisions,  viz :  twenty  days'  rations  of  hard  bread,  flour,  and 
bacon,  and  a  supply  of  sugar  and  coffee,  and  165  pounds  of  pemican*  for  the  dogs,  which  gave 
them  an  allowance  of  three-quarters  of  a  pound  each  per  day. 

The  dogs,  eleven  in  number,  such  as  they  were,  had  been  purchased  from  the  Fur  Company 
and  the  Indians.  They  were  small,  inferior,  wolfish-looking  animals,  and  mostly  unaccustomed 
to  draught,  but  nevertheless  the  best  that  could  be  had. 

We  had  been  looking  impatiently  for  a  snow-storm  for  some  time :  but  as  none  of  any  conse 
quence  had  fallen,  on  the  2d  we  left  Fort  Benton  with  empty  trains  on  bare  ground,  with  two 
extra  men  and  four  pack-mules,  which  were  to  accompany  us  to  the  commencement  of  snow, 
and  camped  on  the  Teton,  eight  miles  from  the  fort. 

January  3. — About  three  o'clock  this  morning  the  wind  changed  from  the  southwest  to  the 
northwest,  and  it  commenced  snowing,  and  kept  it  up,  off'  and  on,  all  day.  We  therefore  did 
not  move  camp,  but  retired  to  a  dense  thicket,  patched  up  a  tolerable  shelter,  and  awaited  the 
end  of  the  storm.  The  evening  was  slill  more  squally  than  the  morning,  and  at  sunset  the  ther 
mometer  stood  6°  above  zero — lower  than  I  had  seen  it  before,  this  winter. 

Janvary  4. — At  sunrise  this  morning  three  inches  of  snow  had  fallen,  and  notwithstanding  the 
intensity  of  the  cold,  a  slight  breeze  from  the  northwest  brought  occasional  additions.  We  left 
camp  at  half-past  nine,  and  having  followed  up  the  course  of  the  Teton  about  eighteen  miles, 
camped  in  a  broad  bottom  sparsely  covered  with  cotton-wood  and  willow.  During  the  latter 
part  of  the  day  we  had  a  slight  breeze  full  in  the  face,  and  in  consequence  several  of  the  party 
had  their  noses  and  ears  more  or  less  frosted.  At  sunset  the  thermometer  was  16°  below  zero, 
arid  still  falling. 

*  Dried  buffalo-meat  pounded  and  packed  in  a  sack. 


FROM    HEADWATERS   OF   THE    MISSOURI   TO    DALLES    OF    THE   COLUMBIA.  499 

January  5. — -Sleeping  was  out  of  the  question  the  latter  part  of  last  night.  Our  camp  was 
open  and  unprotected,  and  we  had  no  lent  or  other  shelter  from  the  sharp  wind.  The  dogs,  too, 
felt  the  severity  of  the  weather  as  much  as  anybody,  and  no  sooner  had  we  gone  to  bed  than  all 
the  spare  corners  of  our  beds  were  appropriated  by  some  of  them,  who,  from  time  to  time,  dis 
turbed  us  with  their  noisy  disputes  with  the  outsiders  upon  the  rights  of  the  squatters.  Unable  to 
stand  the  cold  any  longer,  I  got  up  at  3  o'clock  and  stirred  up  the  fire.  The  thermometer  stood 
then  31°  below  zero. 

About  4  o'clock  the  wind  veered  round  to  the  southwest  and  freshened  into  a  stiff  breeze.  After 
sunrise  it  increased  rather  than  abated,  and  gusts  of  driven  snow  followed  fast  upon  one  another 
over  the  high  prairies.  The  appearance  of  the  morning  determined  me  to  remain  in  camp  again 
to-day,  for  our  next  march  will  of  necessity  be  thirty -e;ght  miles  over  a  high  dividing  prairie,  in 
order  to  reach  the  nearest  wood  on  Sun  river.  About  noon  two  Indians  and  two  squaws  came 
into  camp;  the  Indians  were  on  foot,  but  the  squaws  were  each  mounted  astride  on  an  Indian 
pony.  One  of  the  ponies  was  also  harnessed  to  a  traveille — a  very  simple  kind  of  vehicle  much 
used  by  the  Indians.  It  consists  of  two  poles,  about  fifteen  feet  long  for  horses,  lashed  together 
at  the  small  ends  with  leather  thongs,  and  spread  apart  at  the  big  ends  in  the  form  of  a  letter  A. 
A  strong  strap  is  attached  to  the  two  shafts  near  their  forks,  which  rests  across  the  saddle  on 
the  horse's  back, while  the  big  ends  drag  on  the  ground.  A  short  distance  behind  the  horse's 
heels  two  or  more  cross-pieces  are  bound,  to  which  the  load  is  lashed.  This  arrangement  forms 
the  Indians'  principal  means  of  transporting  their  movables  from  point  to  point,  and  is  equally  ap 
plicable  to  horses  or  dogs,  the  only  difference  being  in  size.  After  sunset  they  caught  up  their 
horses  again  and  left,  having  previously  given  us  to  understand,  by  signs,  that  they  were  on  their 
way  from  Fort  Benton  to  one  of  its  outposts  on  the  Marias,  and  that  they  intended  to  travel  all 
night — a  method  frequently  adopted  by  small  parties  in  travelling,  to  avoid  their  enemies.  I 
thought  at  the  time  that  they  ran  as  much  risk  of  being  frozen  to  death  in  the  night  as  of  being 
scalped  in  the  day,  and  that  there  was  very  little  choice  between  the  two. 

January  6. — This  morning  was  quite  clear,  and  much  milder  than  yesterday.  About  sunrise 
we  left  camp,  and  by  constant  walking  succeeded  in  reaching  Sun  river  (38  miles)  about  an  hour 
after  sunset.  It  was  a  weary  march,  however;  the  snow  was  dry  and  just  deep  enough  to  make 
it  slippery  under  foot.  It  concealed  also  beds  of  prickly  pears,  which  were  very  thick  in  this 
prairie.  These  annoying  things  have  barbs  on  them  an  inch  long,  and  so  sharp  and  strong  that 
they  will  go  through  anything  short  of  a  thick  boot.  The  men,  who  wore  moccasins,  were  fre 
quently  obliged  to  stop  and  pull  them  out  of  their  feet.  Just  before  supper  I  threw  my  buckskin 
tobacco-pouch  down  on  my  bed,  but,  come  to  look  for  it  a  short  time  after,  it  was  nowhere  to  be 
found.  It  was  a  great  loss,  for  it  contained  my  flint,  steel,  and  pipe — my  only  pipe.  I  suspect 
the  pouch  went  the  same  way  as  a  pair  of  moccasins  I  carelessly  left  by  the  fire  to  dry  last 
night — the  dogs  ate  them.  About  eight  o'clock  the  wind  sprang  up  from  the  southeast,  accom 
panied  with  a  little  sleet  and  appearances  of  snow. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th  appearances  were  so  favorable  to  a  continuation  of  the  snow,  that  I 
sent  back  the  pack-mules  and  extra  men,  and  transferred  our  provisions,  &c.,  to  the  trains.  The 
weight  of  each  train  was  now  about  175  pounds.  This  is  a  very  light  load  for  three  good  dogs, 
but  quite  heavy  enough  for  ours.  They  went  along,  however,  much  better  than  had  been  ex 
pected.  After  travelling  nine  miles  up  Sun  river,  we  camped  early,  in  a  point  of  cotton-wood, 
where  we  were  to  leave  its  valley. 

The  river  is  frozen  over  only  at  points  where  its  course  is  sluggish.  In  the  course  of  the  day 
a  number  of  white-tailed  deer,  antelope,  and  grouse  were  started  up,  but  nothing  was  killed  but 
a  grouse.  I  begin  to  see  that  I  was  too  hasty  in  sending  back  my  pack-mules,  for  a  breeze  has 
been  blowing  from  the  southwest  all  day,  and  has  taken  off  nearly  all  the  snow.  A  southwest 
wind  in  this  country  is  sure  to  bring  with  it  fair,  mild  weather  tor  the  season,  whatever  it  be;  and 


500  FROM    HEADWATERS   OP    THE    MISSOURI    TO    DALLES   OF    THE   COLUMBIA. 

as  this  is  the  most  prevailing  wind  in  the  winter,  the  fact  may  account,  in  some  measure,  for  the 
small  amount  of  snow  that  falls,  and  its  short  duration. 

January  8. — Travelled  nine  miles,  and  camped  on  a  small  creek.     The  ground  is  mostly  bare, 
and  travelling  very  laborious.     Saw  plenty  of  deer,  but  were  unable  to  kill  any;  also  saw  a  herd 
j  of  buffalo  about  five  miles  to  the  south  of  our  course.     The  wind  continues  from  the  southwest, 
and  the  weather  is  quite  warm  for  the  season. 

January  9. — The  weather  continues  warm  and  the  ground  bare,  and  the  men  have  been  obliged 
to  cordelle  on  their  trains  all  day.  After  making  about  ten  miles,  we  camped  in  a  small  ravine  a 
little  after  sunset,  where  we  were  able  to  collect  enough  dry  willow  to  make  a  tolerable  camp- 
fire.  This  afternoon  a  high  ridge  was  passed,  which  afforded  a  full  view  of  the  main  chain  of 
the  .Rocky  mountains.  Their  sides  were  white  with  snow,  and  their  tops  were  enveloped  with  a 
dense  wreath  of  clouds,  from  which  the  snow  was  falling  heavily. 

A  large  gray  wolf  has  been  following  close  upon  our  trail  all  day ;  he  probably  concludes,  from 
|  our  rate  of  travel,  that  we  are  about  giving  out,  and  wishes  to  be  in  at  the  death.     A  grizzly  bear 
:  also  followed  us  some  distance;  but  he  finally  gave  up  the  pursuit,  unwilling  to  trouble  his  head 
about  such  small  game. 

The  morning  of  the  10th  was  clear  and  cool.  The  clouds  had  risen  from  the  lofty  peaks  of 
the  mountains,  and  their  broad  sides  stood  out  in  blue  and  white,  as  thick  forests  of  pine  alter 
nated  with  barren  spaces  of  snow. 

We  left  camp  about  sunrise,  and  labored  on,  as  on  yesterday,  as  far  as  Dearborn  river ;  upon 
which  we  camped,  in  a  narrow,  sheltered  bottom  of  cotton-wood. 

This  seems  to  be  the  commencement  of  snow  in  earnest;  and  right  glad  we  are  to  find  it,  for 
we  are  heartily  tired  of  bare-ground  sleighing.  Game  is  quite  plenty  here,  but  very  wild.  While 
at  breakfast  this  morning,  several  small  prairie  wolves  came  barking  around  our  camp.  There 
is  a  marked  distinction  in  size  between  this  animal  and  the  ordinary  wolf  of  the  prairie. 

The  "medicine"  wolf,  as  the  Indians  call  it,  is  not  much  larger  than  a  large  cat,  and  has 
received  the  name  it  bears  from  the  general  superstition  among  the  Indians,  and  indeed  among 
some  trappers,  that  its  presence,  and  particularly  its  barking  about  camp,  bodes  some  great  mis 
fortune — the  near  approach  of  an  enemy,  or  other  dire  calamity.  Whether  there  are  any  such 
fatal  accidents  in  store  for  us  remains  to  be  seen. 

This  evening  the  wind  continues  from  the  southwest,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  sky  is 
stormy. 

January  11. — This  morning  we  commenced  our  march  early,  as  usual.  A  slight  breeze  was 
blowing  from  the  west,  and  a  little  snow  falling;  but,  as  we  approached  the  mountains,  the  wind 
increased  to  a  gale,  and  the  snow  fell  fast  and  cutting.  It  was  with  difficulty,  at  times,  that  we 
could  keep  our  feet,  much  less  make  any  progress. 

About  noon  we  entered  the  defile  or  pass  ;  it  is  walled  in  on  both  sides  by  high  mountains, 
whose  faces  are  more  or  less  wooded  with  a  diminutive  growth  of  pitch-pine.  At  its  bottom  runs 
a  small  stream,  which  takes  its  rise  immediately  at  the  loot  of  the  dividing  ridge  which  separates 
the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri  from  those  of  the  Columbia,  and  flows  into  the  Dearborn  river. 

It  would  appear  that  the  prevailing  high  winds  which  blow  through  this  pass  are  from  the  west; 
for  of  the  many  thousand  of  dead  pines  that  had  been  prostrated  by  them,  not  one  did  I  see  that 
was  broken  in  any  other  direction  than  towards  the  east. 

After  having  travelled  about  fourteen  miles,  we  camped  in  a  sheltered  thicket  of  pines,  near  the 
foot  of  the  dividing  ridge.  We  were  wet  and  cold,  for  since  about  9  o'clock  this  morning  we  had 
been  travelling  in  a  blinding  storm  of  damp  snow,  every  flake  of  which  imbedded  itself  in  the 
furz  of  our  blanket-coats,  and,  melting,  wet  us  to  the  skin.  But,  in  a  pine  growth,  a  few  moments 
suffices  a  "  voyageur"  to  make  a  fire.  Two  of  my  men  were  of  this  class,  and  therefore  at  home 
in  the  woods. 

The  method  they  usually  adopt  is,  to  shave  off  some  of  the  outside  bark  of  a  green  pitch-pine, 


PROM    HEADWATERS   OF   THE    MISSOURI    TO    DALLES   OP   THE   COLUMBIA.  501 

and  powder  it  finely  in  the  hands.  This  is  poured  upon  a  chip  or  piece  of  bark,  and  a  small 
piece  of  spunk,  lighted  with  flint  and  steel,  is  covered  with  it.  From  a  smoke,  with  the  aid  of 
a  little  blowing,  it  soon  increases  to  a  flame ;  and,  with  the  addition  of  a  few  dry  splinters  from 
some  fallen  tree,  the  foundation  is  laid  of  as  roaring  a  fire  as  any  shivering  traveller  need  wish  to 
back  up  against. 

A  flint,  steel  and  spunk,  are  always  preferable  to  matches;  the  latter  are  too  liable  to  injury 
from  the  damp. 

After  our  fire  got  well  to  going  we  cut  down  some  small  pines,  and  used  some  to  hedge  up  the 
windward  side  of  the  fire,  while  from  the  others  were  trimmed  off  enough  boughs  to  make  down 
our  beds  on.  The  snow  at  camp  is  eight  inches  deep,  and  some  of  it  appears  to  have  been  on 
the  ground  some  time. 

Our  friends  the  wolves  continue  to  follow  on  our  trail,  and  to  look  in  upon  us  occasionally  in 
the  evening,  not  fully  satisfied  that  we  are  all  right  yet. 

January  12 — Last  night  about  an  inch  of  snow  fell,  but  this  morning  was  clear  and  very  cold. 
With  two  hours'  labor  we  succeeded  in  forcing  our  way,  through  an  entangled  thicket  of  young 
pines,  to  the  foot  of  the  dividing  ridge — the  back-bone,  as  it  is  called,  of  the  main  chain  of  mount 
ains.  The  ascent  was  steep  and  laborious — so  much  so,  that  the  men  were  obliged  to  double 
teams,  and. make  two  turns  from  the  base  to  the  summit.  This  occupied  all  of  two  hours,  though 
the  distance  was  not  over  half  a  mile.  I  therefore  gained  the  summit  some  time  in  advance  of 
the  party.  It  was  then  mid-day,  and  the  sun,  which  shone  brightly  in  a  cloudless  sky,  was  sur 
rounded  with  a  succession  of  beautiful  halos.  The  first,  brighter  than  a  brilliant  rainbow,  sub 
tended,  as  near  as  I  could  judge  with  a  pocket-compass,  an  angle  of  about  45°.  The  second,  a 
very  distinct  one,  though  not  so  brilliant  as  the  first,  was  concentric  with  it,  and  subtended  an 
angle  of  from  60°  to  70°.  The  third,  an  inverted  arc,  of  which  only  about  120°  was  visible, 
was  tangent  to  the  second  at  its  highest  point,  but  had  about  the  same  curvature  as  the  first. 

The  air  was  full  of  minute  particles  of  frost,  so  small  as  to  be  visible  only  by  their  sparkling 
in  the  sun.  The  western  slope  of  the  ridge  was  nearly  as  abrupt  as  the  eastern,  and  at  its  base 
was  the  fountain-head  of  the  Blackfoot  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  whose  narrow  valley  wound 
its  way  westward  till  lost  to  view  in  the  mass  of  surrounding  mountains. 

Here  I  proposed  to  stop  a  little,  at  the  top  of  this  connecting  link  of  the  immense  mountain 
chain,  to  take  an  uninterrupted  view  of  these  valleys,  with  their  small  streams,  which,  though 
rising  within  gunshot  of  me,  were  tributary  to  two  such  distant  and  mighty  rivers.  But  it  soon 
became  evident  that  this  was  no  place  for  any  one  to  stand  idle,  for  a  temperature  of  21°  below 
zero,  assisted  by  a  sharp  west  wind,  drove  me  down  the  mountain  side,  with  both  ears  and  the 
end  of  my  nose  frozen.  That  was  a  very  uncomfortable  place. 

A  little  after  sunset  we  camped — perfectly  tired  out,  from  the  biggest  man  to  the  smallest  dog — 
in  a  bleak,  dreary  corner,  with  but  few  trees  to  break  the  wind.  Our  beds,  which  had  been  wet 
the  night  before,  were  frozen,  and  had  to  be  thawed  before  used.  As  to  myself,  I  did  not  lie 
down  at  all  that  night,  but  piled  up  a  bank  of  snow,  and  scooped  out  a  place  in  it  for  a  seat,  which 
I  lined  with  my  bedding,  and  slep  bolt  upright. 

The  snow  for  the  most  of  the  day  has  been  one  foot  in  depth,  and  is  drifted  but  little;  therefore 
it  has  not  been  found  necessary  as  yet  to  wear  snow-shoes. 

January  13. — Travelled  about  six  miles  down  the  Blackfoot  fork  and  camped.  Some  time 
last  night  a  driving  storm  arose  from  the  northeast,  and  has  continued  all  day,  filling  the  air  per 
fectly  full  of  flying  snow.  After  camping,  we  occupied  ourselves  the  rest  of  the  day  by  building 
a  large  bough- house  around  the  fire  and  drying  our  bedding.  One  of  the  men  had  his  toes  frosted 
to-day,  and  this  morning  two  of  the  dogs,  while  being  harnessed,  had  their  feet  so  badly  frozen  that 
they  are  very  lame.  They  have  to  be  watched  for  a  while  after  camping  some  nights,  otherwise 
they  will  lame  themselves  by  lying  down  arid  gnawing  out  the  balls  of  snow  which  get  packed 
and  frozen  between  their  toes  in  travelling. 


502  FROM    HEADWATERS    OF   THE    MISSOURI    TO    DALLES   OF   THE   COLUMBIA. 

There  are  some  signs  of  beaver  on  this  stream,  but  not  many.  There  is  not  enough  willow 
and  cotton-wood  about  to  please  them. 

January  14. — This  morning  the  storm  had  ceased,  but  it  remained  extremely  cold,  and  a  slight 
breeze  was  blowing  from  the  northeast.  Since  yesterday  morning  we  have  used  snow-shoes, 
and,  though  the  snow  is  not  over  a  foot  deep,  find  it  easier  travelling  with  than  without  them. 
The  dogs,  too,  travel  better  in  a  snow-shoe  track  than  in  a  single  foot  trail.  Neither  game  nor 
any  signs  of  game,  except  a  few  pheasants'  tracks,  have  been  seen  since  crossing  the  dividing 
ridge. 

At  the  end  of  about  eighteen  miles  we  camped  in  an  old  Indian  lodge,  constructed  of  poles 
about  four  inches  thick  and  twenty  feet  long,  set  up  so  as  to  form  a  conical  structure.  On  the 
outside,  to  the  height  of  about  five  feet,  it  was  covered  wiih  bark  and  thatched  with  pine  boughs. 
The  fact  of  the  top  being  left  open,  as  well  as  of  its  being  very  strongly  built,  makes  it  probable 
that  it  was  built  by  some  war  party  of  Blackfeet  in  making  or  returning  from  a  predatory  excur 
sion  upon  the  Flatheads.  This  is  the  route  often  taken  by  them  in  the  summer,  though  they 
sometimes  pursue  a  shorter  and  more  southern  one.  In  the  winter  they  don't  often  make  descents 
of  this  kind,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  taking  off  stolen  horses,  but  turn  their  attention  more 
particularly  to  the  Crow  country. 

The  morning  of  the  15th  was  the  coldest  of  the  winter  thus  far.  At  sunrise  the  thermometer 
stood  3S°  below  zero.  This  intensely  cold  weather  is  not  very  disagreeable  to  travel  in,  though 
inconvenient.  One  must  take  the  precaution  to  rub  his  nose  and  ears  once  in  a  while,  otherwise 
they  get  frosted  without  giving  the  least  warning.  Every  particle,  too,  of  moisture  in  the  breath 
collects  on  the  beard,  and  encases  the  lower  part  of  the  face  in  a  shell  of  solid  ice  about  half  an 
inch  thick,  which  it  takes  a  long  time  to  pick  off  after  camping.  Sometimes  I  had  my  mouth 
frozen  open,  and  sometimes  shut,  according  to  the  position  it  happened  to  be  kept  in  for  half  an 
hour  at  a  time.  But  in  camp  a  little  more  temperate  weather  is  much  preferable.  As  it  is  now, 
the  dogs  crowd  around  the  fire  with  the  most  uncompromising  pertinacity  till  we  get  to  bed  and 
asleep,  when  they  pile  in  upon  us ;  and  if  one  is  kicked  off  he  makes  war  upon  some  smaller 
dog,  who,  being  displaced,  turns  out  his  next  inferior,  and  so  on,  keeping  the  camp  in  a  continual 
howl  till  they  all  get  settled  again.  This  occurs  so  often  in  the  night  as  to  be  very  annoying. 

Soon  after  leaving  camp,  the  mountain  which  had  heretofore  receded  so  far  from  the  stream  as 
to  leave  a  narrow  interval  of  level  bottom-land  along  it,  closed  in  upon  the  water-course  and 
made  it  necessary  for  us  to  pick  our  way  for  the  most  part  upon  the  side-hills  or  take  to  the  ice. 

The  latter  seemed  preferable,  but  the  stream  was  so  crooked,  it  is  doubtful  if  we  made  much 
by  it.  The  current  is  rapid,  and  there  are  many  air-holes  in  the  ice,  about  which  otter- tracks 
are  very  numerous.  This  animal  has  a  peculiar  method  of  locomotion.  On  the  ice  or  hard  snow 
he  invariably  runs  about  ten  yards,  more  or  less,  and  then  slides  as  far  as  his  momentum  will 
carry  him. 

After  travelling  about  sixteen  miles  we  camped  in  a  point  of  timber  in  a  bend  of  the  river, 
where  some  cotton-wood  was  intermixed  with  the  pine,  and  here,  as  is  generally  found  to  be  the 
case  wherever  there  is  cotton-wood,  were  works  of  the  beaver. 

One  tree  they  had  felled  was  two  feet  in  diameter  at  the  section.  About  three  miles  from  last 
camp  we  crossed  the  track  of  a  wood  buffalo;  his  stride,  when  walking,  was  about  a  yard. 
This  animal  differs  from  the  buffalo  of  the  plains  in  being  much  larger,  wilder,  and  in  preferring 
a  wooded  to  a  prairie  country.  They  are  very  scarce  in  this  latitude,  but  are  said  to  be  more 
plenty  farther  north,  in  the  Saskachawan  country.  General  depth  of  snow  to-day,  ten  inches. 

January  16. — Travelling  about  the  same  as  yesterday,  but  the  snow  seems  to  diminish  slightly 
as  we  go  west.  Continued  on  the  river  till  about  2  p.  m.  to-day,  when  we  again  took  to  the 
prairie,  where  the  mountains  open  out  a  little,  and  by  that  means  cut  off  a  big  bend  which  was 
about  ten  miles  across.  Some  grouse  were  seen  to-day  for  the  first,  time  west  of  the  divide. 


FROM    HEADWATERS   OF   THE    MISSOURI   TO   DALLES   OF   THE   COLUMBIA.  503 

A  band  of  wolves  favored  us  with  a  serenade  last  night,  and  continued  their  politeness  by 
escorting  us  on  our  way  to-day. 

Our  dogs  are  nearly  famished — poor  fellows — but  we  are  unable  to  increase  their  allowance. 
We  have  to  hang  our  trains  and  harnesses  up  in  trees  at  night,  to  keep  them  from  eating  off  the 
raw-hide  straps  and  buckskin  strings.  They  have  already  managed  to  steal  and  eat  two  har 
nesses,  all  except  the  collars.  Travelled  about  twenty-rive  miles,  and  camped  on  the  river. 

On  the  17th,  travelling  was  very  bad  all  day,  and  we  made  but  poor  progress.  The  banks  are 
often  very  broken  and  abrupt  on  one  or  both  sides,  and  there  are  many  rapids  in  the  river  where 
the  stream  does  not  freeze  at  all,  and  these  generally  occur  where  the  banks  are  worst.  Some 
places  seemed  impassable  either  by  land  or  water.  We  sometimes  found  it  necessary  to  pass 
where  the  water  had  overflowed  the  ice  a  few  inches;  this  would  wet  the  bottoms  of  the  trains, 
and  the  moment  they  struck  the  snow  again  a  portion  of  it  would  freeze  to  them,  and  no  amount 
of  scraping  would  make  them  run  as  easily  as  they  did  before. 

Last  night  it  clouded  up,  and  has  remained  cloudy  ever  since,  and  a  little  snow  has  fallen  from 
time  to  time. 

Saw  a  few  ducks  along  the  river,  and  now  and  then  the  track  of  a  marten  on  the  banks;  al^o 
saw  a  black  squirrel,  on  a  pine  tree,  as  we  came  into  camp.  This  is  not  the  first  1  have  observed, 
however. 

January  18. — We  were  so  fatigued  by  yesterday's  march  that  we  overslept  ourselves  entirely 
last  night.  In  fact  we  did  not  wake  up  till  10  o'clock  in  the  morning:  this,  with  a  little  accident 
that  happened,  detained  us  till  about  noon. 

The  dogs  or  wolves,  one  or  both — for  they  are  on  very  good  terms  with  each  other — managed 
to  pull  down  one  of  our  trains  from  the  tree  in  which  it  was  hanging,  and  ate  off'  every  particle 
of  its  rigging,  leaving  us  nothing  but  the  bare  boards. 

The  men  set  about  repairing  the  mischief  with  all  possible  despatch,  but  at  the  same  time 
expressed  themselves  in  no  very  amiable  terms  with  regard  to  the  perpetrators,  as  I  judged  from 
the  frequent  use  of  the  expression,  "  Sacre  maudite  chien"  and  the  like.  After  making  about  six 
miles  over  a  route  very  similar  to  that  of  yesterday,  we  camped  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
river.  The  weather  has  been  clear  and  bright  for  the  most  of  the  day,  but  towards  evening  it 
clouded  up  and  a  little  snow  is  falling. 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th  we  left  camp  about  an  hour  before  sunrise,  in  order  to  make  up  in 
some  measure  for  our  idleness  of  yesterday.  The  river  has  now  become  quite  a  stream.  I  did 
not  measure  its  width,  but  estimated  it  to  be  about  one  hundred  yards.  Sometimes  it  rushes  over 
ragged  rapids  with  great  impetuosity  for  a  distance  of  half  a  mile,  enclosed  on  both  sides  between 
banks  composed  to  the  water's  edge  of  hanging  crags  and  big  loose  rocks.  It  was  often  a 
matter  requiring  some  ingenuity  and  risk  to  get  along  at  all. 

There  is  a  trail  somewhere  along  the  right  bank;  but  as  I  have  no  guide,  it  is  out  of  the 
question  to  follow  it,  covered  as  it  is  with  snow.  At  other  points,  generally  on  the  concave 
side  of  some  long  bend,  the  banks  fall  back  in  a  gentle  slope  for  a  mile  or  so  to  the  base  of  the 
mountains.  On  some  of  these  inclined  intervals  I  observed  a  great  many  buffalo  tracks  leading 
from  the  mountain  defiles  to  the  water.  This  somewhat  surprised  me,  as  I  was  under  the 
impression,  from  what  I  had  learned,  that  no  buffalo  lived  in  these  mountains. 

As  I  was  picking  my  way  along  the  river  towards  evening,  some  distance  in  advance  of  my 
party,  an  otter  popped  out  of  an  air-hole  near  me  and  commenced  playing  about  and  smoothing 
down  his  sleek  coat  on  the  hard  snow.  I  had  nothing  but  my  pistol  with  me,  having  left  my  rifle 
behind  on  one  of  the  trains;  but  unwilling  to  lose  my  chances  at  him  I  fired,  and  he  slid  back 
into  the  water,  but  soon  reappeared  and  continued  his  diversions,  upon  which  I  fired  again  with 
no  better  effect.  After  the  third  shot  I  went  off  and  left  him  to  his  amusements,  satisfied  that  my 
chances  of  killing  him  were  not  worth  the  powder  and  shot.  This  was  the  first  one  I  had  had 
the  opportunity  of  seeing  distinctly.  His  head  was  rather  elongated  and  small  in  comparison  to 


504  FROM    HEADWATERS   OF   THE    MISSOURI   TO    DALLES    OF    THE   COLUMBIA. 

his  body,  which  was  long  and  rather  disproportionately  large  behind.  His  legs  were  short,  and 
his  feet  large  in  comparison. 

About  sunset  we  camped.  I  had  expected  before  this  to  have  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Bitter 
Root  river,  which  we  are  to  ascend  about  thirty  miles  to  get  a  new  supply  of  provisions;  but  as 
yet  I  am  entirely  uncertain  how  far  we  may  be  from  it,  which  is  the  more  unpleasant  as  we  are 
nearly  out  of  provisions.  The  poor  dogs  ate  the  last  of  theirs  last  night,  but  they  are  half-starved 
and  weak,  and  must  have  something;  so,  as  a  last  resort,  we  boiled  part  of  a  raw  elk-skin,  so  as 
to  give  each  a  piece  about  eight  inches  square. 

The  weather,  though  pleasant  otherwise,  still  continues  from  10°  to  20°  below  zero. 

January  20. — This  morning  we  found  our  provisions  reduced  down  to  a  lew  pounds  of  flour 
and  a  little  coffee.  We  did  have  a  small  piece  of  bacon  left  last  night,  which  one  of  the  men 
rolled  up  in  a  bag,  and  put  under  the  head  of  his  bed  for  safe-keeping.  But  it  seems  that  one  of 
the  dogs,  by  an  artful  manoeuvre,  succeeded  in  extracting  it,  and  appropriated  it  to  his  own  use. 
How  to  cook  our  flour  was  now  the  question — a  difficulty  that  looked  big  at  first,  but  vanished  at 
the  recollection  that  we  had  a  few  candles  left.  The  flour  was  made  into  a  batter  with  water, 
and  fried  in  the  grease  of  the  candles;  and  it  made  pretty  good  pancakes,  too,  but  still  might  have 
been  improved  with  a  little  salt  and  saleratus. 

Travelling  to-day  was  worse,  if  anything,  than  yesterday;  and,  though  we  kept  at  it  most  dil 
igently  all  day,  we  probably  have  not  made  more  than  eighteen  miles.  Buffalo  tracks  continue 
to  be  observed,  but  in  less  numbers  than  yesterday. 

I  have  been  in  the  habit  of  taking  my  rifle  to  bed  with  me,  but  last  night  I  stood  it  up  against  a 
tree  near  at  hand;  but  when  I  looked  for  it  this  morning  it  had  been  dragged  some  distance  in 
the  snow,  and  the  cover  was  gone.  The  theft,  as  usual,  lies  between  the  wolves  and  dogs,  and, 
though  very  annoying,  I  can't  help  admiring  the  power  of  their  digestive  organs ;  for,  notwith 
standing  the  rifle-cover  was  made  of  the  thickest  lodge-skin,  there  was  not  a  string  of  it  to  be 
found  anywhere. 

Two  of  the  dogs  are  very  lame  to-night  from  the  effects  of  frozen  feet.  The  snow  has  grad 
ually  diminished  for  the  last  few  days,  so  that  at  present  there  is  nowhere  over  eight  inches. 

January  21. — Last  night  soon  after  dark  a  smart  breeze  arose  from  the  northeast,  and  it  com 
menced  snowing ;  and  this  morning  about  an  inch  had  fallen.  It  continued  also  to-day  till  about 
noon,  when  the  wind  changed  to  the  southwest,  and  brought  with  it  fair  weather.  Though 
detained  some  time  in  fitting  up  a  harness  to  replace  one  eaten  by  the  dogs,  we  left  camp  about 
our  usual  time.  About  10  o'clock,  much  to  our  satisfaction,  we  struck  the  junction  of  the  Black- 
foot  with  the  Hell  Gate  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  river. 

The  latter  fork  comes  in  from  a  southeastern  direction,  and  is  of  about  the  same  size  of  the 
former.  This  junction  is  what  I  had  been  anxiously  looking  for  for  several  days,  and  we  should 
have  struck  it  three  days  ago  had  my  estimate  of  distances  been  correct;  but  we  have  been  under 
the  necessity  of  going  much  out  of  our  way  at  times,  and,  having  no  guide,  my  pocket-compass 
and  incomplete  map  were  found  to  be  inadequate  to  an  accurate  determination  of  our  where 
abouts.  Indeed,  I  had  begun  to  think  that  we  might  possibly  have  passed  both  the  junction  of 
the  two  forks  and  the  mouth  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  and  were  following  down  Clark's  fork — 
no  pleasant  reflection,  provisioned  as  we  were.  Continuing  on,  we  camped  late  in  the  evening 
on  the  Bitter  Root  river,  where  for  supper  we  gave  our  dogs  the  last  morsel  of  raw  hide  and  old 
moccasins  we  had,  and  ate  the  last  of  the  flour,  with  the  exception  of  enough  for  breakfast. 

As  we  debouched  from  the  mountains  into  Hell  Gate  defile,  as  the  valley  of  the  Bitter 
Root  is  sometimes  called,  the  temperature  was  much  milder,  and  the  snow  decreased  to  about 
eight  inches  in  depth.  I  turned  round  to  take  one  last  look  of  the  cold  defile  we  had  just  left. 
Clouds  of  vapor  were  rising  from  the  valley  of  the  stream,  and  enveloped  the  tops  of  the  enclosing 
mountains;  and  as  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun  played  upon  their  changing  wreaths,  and  lell 


FROM   HEADWATERS   OF   THE    MISSOURI   TO   DALLES   OF   THE   COLUMBIA.  505 

warmly  upon  the  backgrounds  of  pine,  the  prospect  was  much  more  agreeable  than  experience 
had  shown  the  reality  to  be. 

January  22. — Made  a  very  early  start,  for  we  were  well  aware  that  we  had  a  hard  day's  travel 
of  about  thirty-five  miles  before  us.  Soon  after  leaving  camp,  in  following  up  the  Bitter  Root, 
we  struck  a  well  beaten  Indian  trail,  and  by  following  it  we  found  travelling  much  better.  Though 
a  bare  place  in  the  valley  was  found  now  and  then,  the  snow  was  generally  about  six  inches  deep. 
Early  in  the  afternoon  we  met  a  large  party  of  Indians  going  to  hunt.  They  were  the  most 
intelligent-looking  and  mannerly  Indians  I  had  yet  seen.  Some  of  them  could  talk  English  quite 
well,  and  even  those  that  could  not  understand  a  word  of  it  had  learned  the  expression  "  How 
d'ye  do?  "  which  they  did  not  fail  to  repeat  once  or  twice  in  passing. 

Late  in  the  day  we  stopped  at  a  camp-fire  by  the  side  of  the  road,  at  which  three  young  men 
were  seated.  Upon  seeing  our  pipes,  they  asked,  by  means  of  signs,  for  some  tobacco.  I  handed 
one  of  them  quite  a  large  piece,  from  which  they  filled  their  pipes,  and  returned  the  remainder — 
something  I  never  knew  an  Indian  offer  to  do  before. 

About  4  o'clock  we  arrived^it  the  hospitable  establishment  of  Messrs.  Owen.  It  was  with 
feelings  of  the  greatest  satisfaction  that  we  again  found  ourselves  under  a  roof;  and  that  pleasure 
was  thrice  enhanced  by  the  open-hearted  cordiality  with  which  we  were  received. 

In  the  valley  we  delayed  until  the  30th — one  day  passed  at  Fort  Owen,  the  remainder  at 
Cantonment  Stevens,  where  Lieutenant  Mullan  has  established  his  winter  quarters  fourteen  miles 
higher  up  the  river.  Between  these  two  points  the  valley  was  broader  than  below  Fort  Owen, 
and  on  each  side  of  the  trail  knots  of  cattle  and  horses  were  grazing  contentedly  on  the  wide  range 
The  cattle,  though  never  housed  or  fed,  were,  with  few  exceptions,  in  market  order;  and  young 
calves,  which  had  rever  looked  beyond  their  mothers  for  protection  and  care,  were  sporting  in 
the  sun. 

Near  Cantonment  Stevens  were  several  lodges  of  Flatheads;  and,  during  our  stay  there,  we 
were  visited  by  many  of  that  tribe,  who  were  anxious  to  hear  the  news  from  the  other  side  of  the 
mountains,  and  to  learn  if  the  Blackfeet  were  still  at  war  with  their  neighboring  tribes.  They 
had  so  often  entertained  delusive  hopes  of  peace,  and  so  often  trusted  to  treaties  and  promises 
which  had  as  often  been  broken  at  the  pleasure  of  their  treacherous  enemy,  that  they  had  well 
nigh  despaired  of  ever  living  in  their  own  country  unmolested. 

These  poor  Indians,  whose  boast  it  is  that  "they  never  shed  the  blood  of  a  white  man,"  are, 
on  account  of  their  peaceable  dispositions  and  their  wish  to  follow  the  counsels  of  the  whites, 
almost  incessantly  harassed  by  their  more  powerful  neighbor  across  the  mountains.  Every  year 
bands  of  their  horses  are  run  off,  and  more  or  less  of  their  people  fall  victims  to  their  lurking  foe. 

From  information  obtained  here,  it  was  found  impracticable,  from  want  of  snow,  to  continue 
further  with  our  trains.  On  the  29th,  therefore,  two  men,  who  had  contracted  to  come  only  this 
far,  were  sent  back  with  one  train  and  four  of  the  best  dogs,  and  the  remaining  dogs  were  cast 
adrift  to  return  to  their  natural  masters,  the  Indians. 

I  was  also  told  by  the  Indians  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  reach  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake  with 
horses,  on  account  of  the  deep  snows  near  that  lake  and  want  of  grass  for  many  days  ;  but,  aware 
of  the  magnitude  which  a  small  difficulty  assumes  in  the  eyes  of  an  Indian,  contrary  to  their 
counsels,  a  sufficient  number  of  horses  and  mules  were  received  from  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and 
eight  bushels  of  oats  and  barley  were  bought  for  them  from  Mr.  Owen,  when,  with  the  addition 
of  one  man  from  Mr.  Mullan's  party  and  an  Indian  guide,  preparations  were  made  to  leave  the 
next  day. 

After  this  reorganization,  with  three  men  and  an  Indian  guide  I  left  Fort  Owen  on  the  30th,  and 
recommenced  my  march  towards  the  Pacific.     I  shall  not  soon  forget  the  unostentatious  hospitality 
of  its  proprietors,  nor  their  kindness  in  furnishing  me  with  many  little  conveniences  and  comforts 
for  my  journey,  which  I  should  otherwise  have  been  without. 
64/ 


506  FROM    HEADWATERS   OF   THE    MISSOURI    TO   DALLES    OF   THE    COLUMBIA. 

After  travelling  about  ten  miles  we  camped.  The  weather  is  very  moderate,  and  the  little 
snow  still  in  the  valley  is  fast  disappearing. 

The  morning  of  the  31st  was  quite  warm  and  cloudy,  with  a  breeze  from  the  southwest.  About 
noon  it  commenced  drizzling,  and  continued  rainy  for  the  rest  of  the  day.  The  snow  is  nearly 
all  gone,  and  has  left  the  ground  covered  in  many  places,  especially  on  the  side-hills,  with  glare- 
ice — a  great  inconvenience  to  unshod  animals.  In  course  of  the  day  we  crossed  the  river  three 
times,  twice  bv  fording  and  once  on  the  ice.  At  our  first  crossing,  soon  after  leaving  camp,  the 
ice  extended  from  the  banks  into  the  stream  some  distance  on  both  sides,  leaving  the  deepest 
portion  of  the  channel  unfrozen.  The  horse  of  my  guide,  Paul,  who  rode  in  advance,  plunged  in 
without  hesitation,  and  I  observed  that  the  water  only  came  to  the  knees  of  his  rider  as  he  sat  in 
the  saddle.  Not  supposing  that  there  would  be  much  difference  in  depth  anywhere  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  I  allowed  my  pony,  who  was  very  much  disinclined  to  trust  himself  to  the 
current,  to  pass  too  much  to  the  right  before  plunging  in;  by  which  piece  of  indiscretion,  due 
partly  to  the  horse  and  partly  to  myself,  we  got  off  soundings,  and  both  went  completely  under. 
The  occurrence,  which  in  itself  was  sufficiently  disgusting,  was  rendered  more  so  by  seeing  Paul 
on  the  other  side,  with  his  hand  over  his  mouth  in  token  of  amazement. 

At  about  sunset  we  camped  at  the  foot  of  Hell  Gate,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Hell  Gate  river. 

February  1 . — The  rain,  which  commenced  falling  yesterday,  continued  till  about  2  o'clock  this 
morning,  when,  with  a  change  of  wind  to  the  northwest,  it  changed  to  snow,  and  about  half  an 
inch  covered  the  ground  this  morning  at  daylight. 

Early  in  the  day  we  left  the  Bitter  Root  river,  and  passing  through  a  narrow  gorge  in  the 
mountains,  called  the  "Defile  of  Coracah,"  struck  the  river  Jocko,  upon  which  at  night  we 
camped.  In  this  defile  there  was  about  eight  inches  of  snow,  but  none  in  the  small  prairies'. 

February  2d  was  clear  and  beautiful.  Our  way  to-day  has  led  through  a  succession  of  defiles 
and  small  mountain-locked  prairies,  covered  with  good  grass.  Upon  some  of  these,  bands  of 
Indian  horses  were  grazing  at  large.  They  were  all  well-conditioned,  and  many  of  them  fine- 
looking  animals. 

About  noon  we  passed  two  solitary  lodges  of  Nez  Perces  Indians.  As  the  sun  descended  be 
hind  the  hills  we  again  camped  on  the  Flathead  river,  having  travelled  about  twenty  miles. 

February  3. — To-day  we  followed  down  the  river  till  about  11  o'clock,  and  crossed.  It  was 
frozen  over  so  smoothly  that  it  was  found  necessary  to  make  a  pathway  for  the  animals,  to  keep 
them  from  slipping.  This  was  done  by  strewing  sand  from  one  side  to  the  other ;  it  answered 
the  same  purpose  as  ashes.  But  this  was  not  the  only  detention  met  with  here.  While  we  were 
engaged  in  making  our  path-way,  one  of  the  pack-mules  stole  off  from  the  band  unobserved,  and 
cached  himself  behind  a  knoll,  in  an  out-of-the-way  place,  where  it  took  a  full  hour  to  find  him. 
Late  in  the  evening  we  camped  on  "  Camash  Prairie,"  a  high  round  prairie,  enclosed  in  mount 
ains,  about  eight  miles  from  the  river.  To-night  is  stormy. 

February  4. — The  feed  was  rather  short  last  night,  and  in  consequence  the  animals  strayed  a 
good  deal.  For  two  or  three  of  the  first  nights  some  of  the  horses  were  hobbled,  and  it  was 
found  sufficient  to  keep  the  band  together  and  near  camp.  In  a  mixed  band  mules  will  not  often 
separate  from  the  horses ;  but  after  getting  completely  out  of  their  range,  they  have  been  allowed 
to  roam  at  large.  About  noon  we  passed  "  Horse  Plain,"  a  broad  interval  included  between  the. 
river  and  the  mountainous  country  back  of  it.  There  were  upwards  of  forty  horses  grazing  upon 
it.  These  small  prairies  generally  furnish  thick  nutritious  grass,  and  afford  to  the  Indians  very 
convenient  natural  enclosures  in  which  to  winter  their  horses;  for  the  broken  country  immediately 
about  them  is  generally  almost  destitute  of  feed,  and  other  natural  obstructions  render  it  very 
difficult  for  them  to  stray,  were  they  inclined  to  do  so.  Though  they  are  not  looked  up  from  the 
commencement  to  the  end  of  winter,  there  is  no  danger  of  their  Jjeing  stolen,  for  the  Indians  fre 
quenting  this  part  of  the  country  have  very  just  notions  of  property  rights. 

Upon  leaving  "  Horse  Plain"  the  trail  followed  down  the  river  for  the  rest  of  the  day.     At  one 


FROM   HEADWATERS   OF   THE    MISSOURI   TO   DALLES   OF   THE    COLUMBIA.  507 

point  a  sharp  shoulder  of  rock  abutted  into  the  river,  and  the  trail  wound  over  the  ridge  back  of 
it.  On  the  side  of  the  ascent  the  sun  had  melted  the  surface  of  the  frozen  ground  in  course  01 
the  day,  and  had  made  it  so  slippery  that,  all  we  could  do,  we  could  riot  contrive  to  get  our  ani 
mals  up  it.  They  would  pick  their  way  carefully  about  two-thirds  the  way  up,  and  then  slide 
back  to  the  bottom.  After  abandoning  the  attempt,  we  succeeded  in  getting  them  round  the  point 
of  rock  on  a  narrow  strip  of  ice. 

Since  last  night  it  has  been  cloudy,  and  a  little  sleet  has  fallen  from  time  to  time.  Camped 
about  four  miles  from  "  Horse  Plain." 

On  the  5th.  travelling  was  unusually  bad.  The  trail,  for  the  most  part,  threaded  along  the 
river  bank,  through  dense  thickets  of  pine,  and  was  often  covered  with  ice,  so  that  the  pack- 
animals  were  constantly  slipping  down,  or  bolting  from  side  to  side  against  trees,  and  wrenching 
off'  their  packs  and  spilling  the  contents. 

About  the  middle  of  the  day  we  came  to  a  place  called  "  Bad  Rock,"  where  a  mountain  cliff' 
crowds  itself  into  the  river,  and  the  trail  winds  up  its  jagged  side  in  a  serpentine  course  to  the 
height  of  about  five  hundred  feet,  and  down  an  equally  precipitous  face  on  the  other  side.  The 
ascent  is  bad  enough,  under  the  most  favorable  circumstances ;  but  now,  ice  in  the  path  made  a 
portion  of  it  impassable  for  animals  without  assistance ;  but  ropes  were  made  fast  round  their 
necks,  and  by  dint  of  pulling  from  above  and  whipping  from  below,  one  by  one  we  forced  them 
up.  All  these  extraordinary  proceedings  amused  Paul  very  much,  and  he  frequently  exclaimed, 
"  Es-em  mowela,"  (bad  rock.)  I  felt  strongly  inclined  to  pitch  him  down  the  hill  for  hinting  that 
I  didn't  know  that  without  being  told. 

After  crossing  a  small  stream  called  by  the  Indians  "  In-shanshe,"  we  camped  on  "Thomp 
son's  Prairie."  This  prairie  is  an  interval  between  the  river  and  the  mountainous  country  inland, 
and  has  been  made  the  depot  for  the  horses  of  one  or  two  parties  which  have  gone  west  this  win 
ter,  under  the  impression  that,  on  account  of  deep  snows  and  want  of  feed,  it  would  be  impossi 
ble  to  take  them  much  farther. 

There  is  some  snow  here,  but  not  much.     To-day  has  been  very  clear  and  pleasant. 

February  6. — Remained  in  camp  to  give  the  animals  a  little  rest  and  recruiting  before  entering 
the  pine  desert  before  us.  Sent  Paul  and  one  of  the  men  across  the  river  into  a  timbered  bottom 
to  hunt  deer,  but  they  were  unable  to  find  any.  The  deer,  what  few  there  were,  appear  to  have 
been  driven  back  into  the  mountains,  for  there  are  no  fresh  tracks. 

February  7. — Upon  leaving  "  Thompson's  Prairie,"  we  entered  that  dense  pine  forest  which 
extends  without  interruption  to  Pend  d'Oreille  lake.  The  influence  of  the  sun,  especially  in  the 
winter,  when  his  rays  fall  more  obliquely,  is  very  imperfectly  felt  through  the  thick  foliage,  and 
the  snows  from  the  time  of  their  falling  lie  entirely  undisturbed  through  the  winter  months. 

From  the  commencement  of  snow,  at  "  Thompson's  Prairie,"  it  has  been  gradually  on  the 
increase  during  the  day,  and  at  camp  to-night  it  is  one  foot  deep.  Had  the  ground  been  bare,  it 
would  have  been  no  better  for  our  animals,  for  the  forest,  at  best  very  meagre  in  undergrowth, 
was  overrun  by  a  fire  last  fall,  which  swept  it  clean  of  every  blade  of  grass  and  green  thing. 
Without  feed,  then,  the  animals  were  tied  to  keep  them  from  returning  on  the  trail. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  passed  a  small  camp  of  five  lodges  of  Pend  d'Oreille  Indians.  They 
were  the  most  destitute,  squalid,  miserable-looking  human  beings  I  think  I  ever  saw.  Their 
lodges,  which  were  low  and  badly  constructed,  were  made  of  poles  set  up  in  the  usual  form, 
covered  with  rush  matting. 

Upon  approaching  the  lodge  doors,  we  were  greeted  with  the  usual  outburst  of  yelping  dogs, 
followed  by  the  inmates  of  the  lodges.  One-eyed  and  distorted  old  men,  toothless  old  women, 
and  naked  children,  all  besmeared  with  filth,  crowded  round  to  shake  hands  with  the  tijce.  I 
began  to  fear  we  might  get  short  of  provisions  before  getting  through,  or  I  should  have  passed 
them  by  unnoticed  ;  but  as  it  was,  I  swallowed  my  disgust,  and  bought  about  twenty  pounds  of 
venison — all  they  had  to  spare — for  which  they  received  in  return  some  powder  and  balls. 


508  FROM    HEADWATERS   OF   THE    MISSOURI    TO    DALLES   OF    THE   COLUMBIA. 

Last  night  it  rained  some  hours,  but  turned  off  cool  and  windy  towards  morning.  Camped  on 
"  Steep  river." 

February  8. — This  morning  about  two  bushels  of  oats  and  barley  were  fed  out  to  the  animal?, 
which  allowed  them  a  little  over  four  quarts  each.  Some  of  them  chewed  off'  their  pack-straps 
with  which  they  were  tied  in  the  night,  but  did  not  stray,  as  but  few  got  loose. 

We  have  passed  to-day  several  old  Indian  camping  places,  indicated  by  the  skeletons  of  their 
lodges  still  standing.  At  one  of  them  was  a  mud-built  structure  about  six  feet  long  and  three 
wide,  arched  over  at  the  top  like  an  oven,  and  lined  inside  with  pine  boughs.  At  the  end  was  a 
hole  sufficiently  large  for  a  man  to  crawl  in.  It  was  probably  the  dormitory  of  some  bachelor 

Indian. 

Thouo-h  the  great  mass  of  the  forest  growth  is  pine,  there  are  some  hemlock  and  fir;  and  on 
the  banks  of  small  streams,  and  near  the  river,  a  few  cedars,  white  and  yellow  birch.  Some  of 
the  cedars  were  as  large  as  six  feet  through  at  the  butt,  tall  and  straight-grained.  The  snow  is 
still  increasing  a  little  in  depth,  but  does  not  as  yet  offer  much  of  an  obstruction  to  travelling.  It 
varies  to-day  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches.  The  weather  is  still  cloudy,  and  a  little  sleet  has 
been  falling  from  time  to  time.  Travelled  to-day  about  14  miles. 

On  the  evening  of  the  9th,  after  having  travelled  about  as  far  as  the  day  before,  we  camped 
on  a  small  stream  whose  banks  were  fringed  with  hemlock  and  cedar.  A  sufficient  quantity  of 
them  were  felled  and  their  boughs  fed  to  the  animals.  They  would  pick  at  them  a  little,  but 
more  from  force  of  habit  than  from  any  relish.  They  preferred  hemlock  to  cedar. 

We  have  given  up  riding  altogether,  for  travelling  is  getting  bad,  and  we  wish  to  save  the 
animals  as  much  as  possible. 

The  snow  is  now  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  in  depth,  with  a  light  crust  over  it.  For 
two  days  past  I  have  frequently  observed  tracks  of  an  animal  called  in  this  country  the  panther, 
or  tiger-cat.  The  tracks  in  the  snow  are  about  as  large  as  a  saucer,  and  the  stride  of  the  animal, 
as  he  trots,  is  about  two  feet. 

Last  night  it  rained  for  several  hours,  but  turned  off  towards  morning  to  snow,  and  it  was 
stormy  all  the  morning.  It  is  still  cloudy,  and  threatening  rain  to-night. 

February  10. — My  guide,  Paul,  seems  to  be  totally  unacquainted  with  the  trail,  now  that  it  is 
well  covered  with  snow.  In  consequence  we  have  followed  the  bed  of  the  river  all  day.  Though 
the  channel  is  not  frozen  over,  there  is  a  strip  generally  along  the  edge,  a  few  feet  wide,  which 
answers  very  well  to  travel  on,  provided  the  animals  are  closely  watched.  Notwithstanding  every 
care,  they  will  sometimes  get  in.  Just  before  halting  for  the  night  we  passed  a  camp  of  eleven 
lodges  of  Pend  d'Oreille  Indians.  The  lodges  were  similar  to  those  passed  on  the  7th,  but  the 
inmates  were  a  little  cleaner  and  better  clad ;  but  they  all  appear  to  be  on  a  short  allowance  of  soap. 
After  supper  they  brought  some  venison  into  camp,  to  "swap"  for  anything  we  might  feel  disposed 
to  give  them.  With  some  powder  and  balls,  and  a  few  old  shirts,  I  purchased  as  much  as  I  wished. 

We  found  a  few  cotton-wood  trees  near  our  camp  to-night,  and  felled  them.  The  poor  animals 
ate  the  browse  with  great  good  will.  Since  9  o'clock  this  morning  it  has  been  raining  lightly, 
and  bids  fair  to  continue  some  time. 

February  11. — We  continue  to  pick  our  way  along  the  river.  When  a  few  miles  from  camp, 
an  old  Indian  camping-ground  was  passed,  which,  from  appearance,  had  not  been  deserted  long. 
In  its  midst  was  a  scaffolding,  erected  by  making  four  poles  fast  in  the  ground  in  an  upright 
position,  at  the  corners  of  a  rectangle,  and  lashing  cross-poles  to  them  about  eight  feet  from  the 
ground.  These  latter  supported  a  platform,  upon  which,  in  a  rude  enclosure,  was  the  body  of  a 
deceased  Indian. 

There  was  another  structure  near  by,  built  of  logs,  matched  and  jointed  at  the  corners  like  a 
log-house.  It  was  about  seven  feet  long,  four  feet  wide,  and  four  feet  high,  and  closely  covered 
at  the  top.  This  I  took  to  be  also  a  place  of  sepulture. 

The  average  depth  of  snow  to-day  was  from  two  feet  to  two  and  a  half. 


FROM    HEADWATERS   OF   THE   MISSOURI   TO   DALLES   OF   THE   COLUMBIA.  509 

February  12. — A  few  miles  before  reaching  our  camp  last  night,  the  trail  leaves  the  river  and 
takes  a  shortcut  to  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  over  the  Cabinet  mountain ;  but  my  guide.  Paul,  has 
entirely  lost  his  reckoning,  and  rather  than  attempt  to  cross  it  blindly,  I  preferred  ihe  chances  of 
being  able  to  follow  the  river.  The  way  along-shore  has  become  very  difficult  and  hazardous  <.f 
late;  the  river  falls  more  rapidly  than  before,  and  often  boiling  rapids  and  rugged  shores  of  loose 
angular  rocks,  with  the  crevices  and  chasms  between  hidden  with  snow,  make  our  progress 
extremely  laborious  and  dangerous  to  the  animals.  We  left  camp  early  this  morning,  and  felt  our 
way  along  the  bank  for  about  a  mile,  during  which  time  nearly  all  my  mules  got  in  once  or  twice 
apiece,  and  we  were  detained  some  time  in  pulling  them  out,  by  lariats  thrown  over  their  heads, 
and  in  readjusting  their  packs. 

One  accident  of  this  kind — though  it  came  near  costing  me  two  of  my  best  mules,  and  nearly 
all  our  bedding  and  provisions — struck  me  as  being  extremely  ludicrous.  Two  of  the  mules, 
with  their  usual  contempt  of  prudence,  bolted  out  of  the  track  on  to  a  long  point  of  ice  formed  at 
the  head  of  a  sharp  bend,  and  when  near  the  extremity,  their  weight,  of  course,  broke  it  ( ff,  and 
they  swung  out  into  the  swift  current  on  a  raft  of  their  own  constructing.  As  they  separated 
more  and  more  from  their  comrades,  their  long  ears  began  to  revolve  about  on  their  skulls,  indi 
cating  that  an  idea  had  struck  them  that  they  were  getting  too  far  from  shore,  when,  with  a 
mutual  look  that  sufficed  for  a  parting  shake  of  the  hand,  they  plunged  into  Clark's  fork  of  the 
Columbia.  The  last  I  saw  of  the  companions-in-arms  was  the  tips  of  their  tails  before  the  last 
wave  closed  over  them.  At  the  expiration  of  a  few  seconds  two  noses  appeared,  followed  by  four 
ears  and  the  packs.  But  they  swam  ashore,  and  allowed  themselves  to  be  pulled  out  just  in  time 
to  save  themselves  from  going  over  a  churning  rapid  below. 

I  thought  the  last  demonstration  might  wind  up  the  subject  of  river  travelling  for  the  present, 
and  struck  into  the  timber.  We  had  now  before  us  a  broad  bottom,  lying  betwen  the  Cabinet 
mountain  and  the  river,  and  covered  so  densely  with  pine  that  we  had  to  grope  our  way  along, 
bushing  out  as  we  went,  and  turn  from  side  to  side  to  avoid  fallen  timber.  The  snow  was  from 
two  to  two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  with  a  crust  on  the  top  hard  enough  to  nearly  bear,  but  not  quite. 
As  our  snow-shoes  had  long  since  been  broken  to  pieces  on  the  pack-animals,  we  went  on,  putting 
one  leg  in  and  pulling  the  other  out,  till  nearly  sunset,  when  we  ascended  the  mountain-side  a 
little,  and  camped  in  a  small  opening. 

This  has  been  the  most  laborious  day  since  leaving  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  and  yet  we  have 
not  made  over  six  miles. 

To-night  our  animals  are  a  sorry-looking  set.  There  is  not  a  particle  of  anything  for  them 
to  eat  at  camp,  and  they  ate  the  last  bite  of  grain  yesterday  morning.  Their  bellies  are  so  drawn 
up,  that  with  the  greatest  care  a  pack-saddle  cannot  be  made  to  stay  on  more  than  two  hours  at 
a  time.  They  have  endured  almost  an  incredible  amount  of  hardships.  Though  jaded  to  com 
mence  with,  they  have  been  knocked  about  from  day-dawn  till  dark  over  rocks  and  ice,  and 
through  a  pathless  pine  forest,  with  almost  nothing  to  eat  for  the  last  six  days.  Their  legs,  cut 
by  the  snow  crust,  are  raw  and  bleeding  from  fetlocks  to  knees.  This  is  the  state  of  prepara 
tion  for  a  hard  jaunt  to-morrow,  which,  if  we  are  fortunate,  will  bring  us  to  grass.  Our  beds 
are  thoroughly  saturated  with  water;  but,  exposed  as  we  are  to  every  storm,  we  have  long  since 
ceased  to  think  of  dry  beds  or  clothes. 

While  ascending  the  mountain-side,  I  shot  a  wood  or  yellow-breasted  marten,  as  he  sat  upon 
a  pine  limb  about  forty  feet  from  the  ground.  It  has  been  snowing  nearly  all  day,  and  to-night 
is  dark  and  stormy. 

During  the  night  about  two  inches  of  snow  fell,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  13th  we  continued 
on  over  a  country  the  very  pattern  of  that  traversed  yesterday,  except  that  now  and  then  a  small 
mountain-stream  was  crossed,  upon  whose  banks  were  many  huge  cedars.  I  noticed  some  that 
were  eight  feet  in  diameter  six  feet  from  the  ground.  They  were  also  straight-grained,  and  had 
scarcely  a  limb  to  their  tops. 


510  FROM    HEADWATERS    OF    THE    MISSOURI    TO    DALLES   OP   THE   COLUMBIA. 

Near  evening  \ve  struck  a  beaten  snow-shoe  track,  sufficiently  hard  to  bear  the  animals;  and, 
alter  following  it  about  two  miles,  we  entered  a  small  opening  near  the  lake  and  camped.  Here 
\ve  have  the  satisfaction  of  turning  our  emaciated  animals  into  grass.  It  is  poor  yet,  but  the  an 
imals  have  ceased  to  be  over-nice  in  what  they  eat. 

On  the  14th  remained  in  camp  to  recruit  our  exhausted  animals  a  little.  The  day  broke  clear 
and  beautiful.  Nature  threw  off  the  dark,  gloomy  aspect  that  had  hung  upon  us  for  the  last  eight 
davs,  and  shone  forth  with  additional  brilliancy.  Early  in  the  day  an  Indian  dropped  in  upon 
us  accidentally.  He  intimated  that  his  band  (Pend  d'Oreilles)  were  camped  about  four  miles 
from  us. 

After  exchanging  a  few  gutturals  with  the  guide,  he  left,  but  returned  again  about  10  o'clock 
with  six  more,  who  sat  around  the  camp-fire,  smoked,  arid  made  themselves  at  home  till  about 
noon,  when  they  all  left  except  one  forsaken-looking  old  vagabond,  who  laid  about  in  the  ashes 
all  day. 

I  could  not  help  noticing  this  aboriginal  particularly.  He  was  the  rarest  specimen  of  multiform 
and  complicated  filth  I  ever  saw,  and  looked  as  if  he  had  been  dead  for  the  last  two  years,  and 
had  left  his  grave  for  a  morning  walk  without  stopping  to  wash  himself  or  change  his  clothes.  He 
remained  back  to  beg  and  smoke;  but  as  I  didn't  feel  disposed  to  see  the  stem  of  my  pipe  stick 
ing  in  such  a  face  as  his,  he  was  left  unnoticed.  After  half  an  hour  lost  in  silent  expectation, 
with  a  combination  of  gutturals  and  gesticulations  from  his  seat  in  the  ashes,  he  commenced  a 
long  harangue,  which,  from  his  pantomime,  I  interpreted  as  follows: 

"He  was  the  friend  of  the  white  man;  in  fact,  he  loved  the  white  man.  And  when  the  white 
man  passed  to  and  fro  he  always  went  to  his  camp,  and  smoked  the  white  man's  pipe,  and  ate 
some;  in  fact,  he  sometimes  ate  a  great  deal.  And  before  he  left  the  w1  'te  man's  camp  the 
white  man  always  gave  him  some  tobacco  and  old  clothes,  and  sometimes  a  blanket  or  two,  or 
a  buffalo-robe.  If  it  was  only  a  good  blanket,  he  didn't  care  if  it  was  not  new,  or  what  color  it 
was.  He  was  very  glad  to  see  me  at  this  time,  to-day,  and  was  considerably  hungry." 

By  this  time  I  had  finished  skinning  a  marten  that  I  had  been  engaged  on  all  the  morning,  and 
was  about  to  throw  away  the  carcass,  when  he  begged  it,  stuck  it  on  a  stick  whole,  and  roasted 
and  ate  it.  After  this  savory  meal,  he  spit  upon  his  hands  and  rubbed  them  over  his  face,  and 
wiped  his  hands  and  face  on  almost  his  only  garment — a  tattered  buffalo-robe.  I  was  unable  to 
perceive  whether  his  face  or  the  buffalo-robe  gained  the  more  dirt  by  the  operation,  but  it  had  the 
effect  to  polish  off  the  outside  stratum  on  both. 

At  supper,  it  may  be  anticipated,  he  was  not  an  invited  guest;  upon  which  he  arose,  and 
stalked  off  with  great  show  of  offended  dignity. 

This  afternoon  it  became  cloudy,  and  is  snowing  a  little  this  evening. 

February  15. — Early  this  morning  we  again  resumed  our  journey.  For  the  first  few  hours  our 
way  led  through  a  defile  between  the  main  body  of  mountains  on  our  right,  and  one  which  pro 
jected  into  the  lake,  forming  a  promontory  on  our  left.  Upon  leaving  this  defile  we  came  in  full 
view  of  the  lake,  perfectly  becalmed  in  its  mountain-bed.  Its  form  was  irregular;  sometimes  it 
stretched  out  long  arms  into  the  blue  distance,  while  at  others  bluff  promontories,  with  their 
hard  outlines,  extended  far  into  the  heart  of  its  waters. 

We  now  followed  the  lake  shore,  and,  after  passing  several  small  openings  with  fine  grass,  we 
camped  at  night  in  excellent  feed  at  the  mouth  of  Pack  river.  This  is  a  small  stream,  emptying 
into  the  lake  from  the  north  through  a  flat  open  interval. 

The  snow,  which  was  fifteen  inches  deep  at  our  last  camp,  has  rapidly  decreased  to  the  depth 
of  four  inches  to-night.  Last  night  one  inch  and  a  half  more  fell. 

On  the  IGth  we  travelled  about  fifteen  miles,  and  camped  in  a  sandy  point  at  the  foot  of  the 
lake.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  day  the  trail  led  round  an  arm  of  the  lake,  which  was  frozen  over, 
and  we  saved  about  five  miles  by  crossing  on  the  ice.  It  was  about  eight  inches  thick,  and  per 
fectly  safe,  except  where  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  water  had  rived  long  seams  in  it.  In  crossing 


FROM    HEADWATERS   OF   THE    MISSOURI   TO   DALLES   OF   THE   COLUMBIA.  611 

one  of  these,  the  mules  suddenly  rushed  into  one  mass,  and  four  of  them  went  through ;  but 
they  were  released  without  loss  or  damage,  excepting  the  thorough  saturation  of  our  beds,  pro 
visions,  &c. 

Ducks,  geese,  and  otter  are  very  numerous  along  the  lake  shore.  I  shot  one  of  the  latter,  but 
he  sank  and  I  saw  no  more  of  him.  The  animals  are  very  tired  to-night,  and  some  of  them  are 
evidently  about  giving  out.  My  horse  in  particular  was  so  much  exhausted  that  he  did  not  reach 
camp  till  half  an  hour  after  the  others.  The  grass  is  thin  and  poor. 

February  17. — My  horse  was  unable  to  go  on  this  morning,  and  one  of  the  mules  gave  out  be 
fore  proceeding  far.  Their  saddles  and  equipments  were  packed  upon  another  animal,  and  they 
left  to  shift  for  themselves.  Travelling  was  tolerably  good,  and  notwithstanding  the  weakened 
state  of  the  animals,  before  night  we  placed  sixteen  miles  between  us  and  the  lake. 

Near  camp  to-night,  which  is  under  a  hill  nearly  destitute  of  grass,  are  two  Indian  graves. 
One  is  enclosed  in  a  rough  pen-  of  small  sticks  of  timber,  while  round  the  other  there  is  a  circular 
stockade  about  ten  feet  high. 

There  has  been  a  slight  increase  of  snow  since  leaving  the  lake ;  its  depth  varies  now  from 
eight  to  fifteen  inches. 

February  18. — After  following  along  the  river  bank  about  three  miles  farther,  we  reached  the 
crossing.  The  river  here  is  deep  and  wide,  and  its  current  scarcely  perceptible.  A  Macki- 
nac  boat  was  lying  on  the  other  side,  and  while  constructing  a  raft  to  avail  ourselves  of  it, 
the  mules  were  unburdened  and  allowed  to  pick  up  what  little  they  could  by  cropping  the  few 
heads  of  grass  which  here  and  there  struggled  through  the  snow. 

O  (_O  O 

A  few  minutes  sufficed  to  put  us  in  the  possession  of  the  desired  conveyance  ;  and  after  trans 
porting  our  "  traps"  to  the  other  side,  two  of  the  strongest  animals  were  taken  in  tow,  and  the 
rest,  once  driven  in,  followed  in  our  wake  without  accident  to  the  other  side.  This  is  a  deceitful 
crossing-place  ;  owing  to  the  width  of  the  river  and  its  lazy  current,  many  animals  have  been  lost 
this  year  in  swimming  it. 

Here  again  we  camped,  poor  as  was  the  feed.  I  preferred  remaining  to  going  farther,  and  per 
haps  faring  worse. 

February  19. — The  trail  from  the  crossing  of  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia  to  the  Spokane 
prairie  leads  through  a  depression  of  the  range  of  mountains  skirting  along  the  left  bank  of  the 
river.  This  valley  is  thickly  though  not  heavily  timbered  with  pine,  and  its  northern  and  south 
ern  slopes  are  threaded  by  two  small  streams,  which,  in  their  winding  courses  to  the  Columbia 
and  Spokane  rivers,  from  time  to  time  spread  out  into  small  lagoons. 

By  the  summer  trail,  it  is  but  two  short  days'  travel  through  this  forest ;  and  with  the  comfort 
able  contemplation  of  soon  leaving  this  uncomfortable  region,  we  followed  up  one  of  these  streams 
to  Lake  Debosey,  where,  trusting  ourselves  to  the  guidance  of  Paul,  we  branched  off  into  the 
timber.  From  this  time  till  we  reached  the  Spokane  prairie,  four  weary,  irritating  days,  we  wan 
dered  blindly  about  over  fallen  timber,  and  through  almost  impenetrable  thickets.  The  guide, 
deprived  of  any  indication  of  a  trail  by  the  snow,  was  perfectly  ignorant  of  its  whereabouts. 
The  snow,  as  we  penetrated  farther,  gradually  increased  to  the  depth  of  two  and  a  half  feet,  and 
its  surface  was  covered  with  a.  crust  which  cut  the  legs  of  the  animals  so  severely  that  I  soon 
found  it  necessary  to  stop  and  tear  up  our  extra  bags  for  leggins.  These  I  managed  to  wrap 
round  their  legs,  and  secure  by  tying  under  the  fetlocks  arid  just  above  the  knee-joint.  Still  every 
step  in  the  hard  snow  was  marked  by  their  blood,  and  they  were  so  weak  and  spiritless  that 
without  a  beaten  path  they  would  not  move  an  inch.  Two  nights  out  of  the  three,  we  camped 
under  some  partially  bare  side-hills,  where  a  little  grass  might  be  picked  up,  but  the  third  was 
perfectly  destitute  of  any.  I  was  surprised  at  the  endurance  of  the  animals,  which,  I  think,  was 
tested  to  its  foundation  ;  for  when  we  reached  the  prairie  I  don't  believe  there  was  one  in  the 
eleven  that  could  have  continued  a  fair  day's  march  farther. 

On  the  evening  of  the  22d,  then,  we  emerged  from  this  second  and  last  snowy  desert,  and  had 


512  FROM    HEADWATERS   OF   THE    MISSOURI   TO   DALLES   OF   THE   COLUMBIA. 

the  satisfaction  of  surprising  our  shadowy  beasts  by  introducing  them  to  as  good  a  field  of  grass 
as  their  most  extravagant  imaginations  could  wish.  In  fact,  the  moment  we  debouched  from  the 
timber,  we  seemed  to  have  transported  ourselves  by  a  single  stride  from  the  depih  of  winter  to 
the  refreshing  commencement  of  summer.  There  were  but  few  traces  of  snow  left  on  the  Spo 
kane  prairie,  and  already  the  slim  spears  of  green  grass  were  shooting  up  plentifully. 

February  23. — We  crawled  along  ten  miles  farther,  and  camped  near  the  lodges  of  Antoine 
Plant,  an  old  mountaineer,  and  an  Indian  herdsman,  who  lead  pastoral  lives,  herding  numerous 
cattle  and  horses  on  the  adjacent  plains.  In  course  of  the  evening  I  succeeded  in  hiring  ten 
fresh  horses  from  Antoine,  and  in  engaging  his  personal  services  as  guide  to  Wallah-Wallah,  vice 
Paul,  cashiered. 

My  own  animals  were  left  in  charge  of  the  Indian  till  called  for. 

The  sun  had  passed  the  meridian  on  the  24th,  before  we  left  Antoine's  "  ranche."  The  morn 
ing  was  passed  in  replenishing  our  larder  with  beef,  from  one  of  Mr.  Owen's  fat  heifers.  When 
we  left  the  Bitter  Root  valley  we  had  provisions  enough,  on  ordinary  allowance,  to  last  to  Wallah- 
Wallah  ;  but  notwithstanding  many  pounds  of  venison  has  been  bought,  we  are  entirely  out.  Our 
appetites  have  been  in  proportion  to  our  exposure,  and  at  times  prodigious. 

By  1  o'clock  we  were  again  on  the  road,  and  two  hours'  ride  on  our  vigorous  animals  brought 
us  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Spokane,  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles,  when  we  camped. 

In  passing,  I  took  occasion  to  notice  particularly  the  stock  running  at  large.  It  was  in  about 
the  same  condition  as  that  in  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  fat  and  sleek. 

To-day  has  been  the  first  entirely  clear  day  since  leaving  Fort  Owen. 

February  25. — The  appearance  of  the  Spokane  river  was  not  pleasant  this  morning.  It  is  rapid 
at  all  times,  but  now,  swollen  by  recent  rains,  it  rushed  by  with  a  defiant  whirl.  In  we  went, 
however,  and,  thanks  to  strong  ponies,  by  fording  and  swimming  we  landed  all  right  on  the  other 
side.  Our  packs  readjusted  and  squeezed  free  of  surplus  water,  we  gave  rein  to  the  horses,  and 
were  ofFata  sharp  trot.  The  trail  threaded  an  undulating,  gravelly  country,  occasionally  broken 
with  ragged  outcrops  of  trap,  and  half  clad  with  stunted  pines,  which  yearly  dispute  their  claim 
to  the  soil  with  the  autumnal  prairie  fires.  Five  miles  on  our  way  we  passed  the  "falls,"  but  at 
too  great  a  distance  for  a  satisfactory  view.  The  river  banks  both  above  and  below  were  high, 
and  the  right  bank  stretched  off  many  miles  to  the  north  in  a  gently  undulating  plain,  upon  which, 
at  a  distance  of  five  miles,  could  be  seen  the  Spokane  camp,  surrounded  with  its  thousand  horses. 
Just  below  the  falls,  where  a  bar  divided  the  channel,  the  Indians  had  constructed  wing-walls 
of  loose  rocks  across  one  arm,  leaving  a  race  between  their  extremities,  in  which,  by  means  of 
nets,  they  caught  salmon  in  passing.  A  long  trestle-work  was  also  built  on  the  bank,  upon  which 
their  captives  were  laid  to  dry. 

At  noon  the  heavy  leaden  clouds  which  had  overhung  the  earth  from  sunrise  commenced  to 
repay  us  for  yesterday's  fair  weather,  with  most  plentiful  drench  ings  of  snow  and  rain — a  course 
of  treatment  kept  up  for  the  rest  of  the  day. 

At  the  end  of  thirty  miles  we  camped,  and  made  ourselves  passably  comfortable  by  spreading 
our  saddle-blankets  on  a  frame  of  poles  on  the  stormy  side. 

February  2G. — Last  night  the  beasts  took  it  into  their  heads  to  see  more  of  the  surrounding 
country  than  was  consistent  with  an  early  start;  but  we  made  up  for  lost  time  when  once  on 
their  backs,  and  camped  early,  after  a  forty  miles'  ride.  The  first  quarter  of  our  day's  journey 
presented  the  same  characteristics  as  that  of  yesterday,  but  in  a  more  decided  form.  The  out 
crops  of  trap  were  more  numerous,  and  often  vertical  walls  of  columnar-basalt  supported  the 
edge  of  a  more  elevated  terrace,  or  bounded  the  sides  of  a  detached  knob.  The  soil  is  mostly 
composed  of  the  detritus  of  trap,  and  has  much  oxide  of  iron  in  its  composition.  In  a  steep, 
craggy-sided  basin  we  passed  a  small  salt  lagoon — the  only  one,  my  guide  said,  in  this  section  of 
the  country. 

Presently  the  country  opened  out  into  a  broad  and  swelling  prairie,  and  the  last  vestige  and 


FROM    HEADWATERS    OF    THE    MISSOURI    TO    DALLES   OF    THE   COLUMBIA.  513 

remnant  of  pines  were  left  behind.  On  a  small  creek  called  the  "Gates,"  near  the  edge  of  pines, 
were  camped  a  few  lodges  of  Spokane  Indians.  This  nation  is  scattered  about  in  small  detach 
ments  over  its  country  at  present,  to  avoid  the  smallpox,  which  is  said  to  be  raging  at  a  fearful 
extent  in  some  camps. 

February  27. — This  morning  we  awoke  well  steeped  in  snow  and  rain,  for  the  elements  had 
pelted  us  most  pertinaciously  with  sleet  all  night.  Everything  was  cold  and  shivering.  Never 
theless,  while  at  breakfast,  two  robins  managed  to  poise  themselves  on  the  icy  limb  of  a  cotton- 
wood,  and  sang  with  as  much  equanimity  as  if  they  had  passed  a  fine  night  of  it.  Riding  was 
cold,  and  the  way  monotonous,  and  we  were  heartily  glad  to  reach  camp  again. 

The  only  wood  of  any  kind  to  be  found  on  this  prairie  are  a  few  cotton-woods,  willow,  and 
moose-wood,  which  fringe  the  "  Gates,"  (the  stream  on  which  we  camped  last  night  and  to-night,) 
and  a  few  other  small  streams.  The  "Gates,"  though  nearly  dry  in  the  summer,  is  quite  prolific 
in  fish  and  clams.  Near  our  camp  there  is  a  quantity  of  shells  on  the  bank,  where  the  Indians 
have  had  a  clam-bake. 

February  28. — An  hour's  ride  brought  us  to  the  junction  of  the  "Gates"  creek  with  the  Pieuse 
river,  a  petulant  little  stream,  that  was  now  in  one  of  its  froward  spells.  This  was  the  crossing- 
place  of  the  trail  to  Snake  river;  but  there  were  no  means  at  hand  for  constructing  a  raft,  and 
rather  than  try  the  temperature  of  such  a  perverse  torrent,  we  concluded  to  follow  it  on  the  same 
side  to  its  junction  with  the  Snake  river.  About  five  miles  its  course  was  nearly  due  west ;  it 
then  made  an  abrupt  turn  to  the  south,  and  continued  in  the  same  general  direction  to  its  mouth- 
At  the  angle  the  stream  fell  in  an  unbroken  sheet  over  an  abrupt  straight  ledge  into  a  deep  basin 
about  twenty  feet  below,  from  which,  after  recovering  its  shock,  it  pursued  its  course  to  the  left 
with  a  more  gentle  flow.  The  fall  bears  a  striking  resemblance,  except  in  size,  to  the  "  Great 
Fall"  of  the  Missouri.  The  stream  now  elbowed  its  way  between  high,  bold  banks  of  trap  form 
ation.  Sometimes  a  stone  might  be  dropped  from  the  top  of  the  bank  into  the  water  a  hundred 
and  fifty  or  two  hundred  feet  below,  and  again  the  banks  fell  back  in  serrated  steps  to  the  prairie- 
level.  The  whole  appearance  of  the  canon  looked  as  if  it  had  been  stamped  with  a  big  die, 
rather  than  worn  by  the  water. 

At  the  crossing  of  the  Snake  river,  a  band  of  twenty  or  thirty  lodges  of  Pieuse  Indians  was 
camped.  They  lived  in  comfortable  looking  mat  lodges,  were  rich  in  horses,  and  raised  corn, 
wheat,  and  potatoes.  They  had  a  burying-ground  fenced  off  near  the  river,  in  which  were 
several  graves.  At  the  head  of  two  of  them  were  rude  crosses,  poles  about  ten  feet  long  stuck 
in  the  ground,  with  cross-pieces  near  the  top. 

The  Snake  river  is  here  about  250  yards  wide,  and  very  swift.  The  animals  were  relieved 
of  their  saddles  and  driven  across,  while  we  availed  ourselves  of  three  of  the  largest  canoes 
brought  us  by  the  Indians,  and  crossed  our  equipments.  The  terms  of  ferriage  with  these  Indians 
is  anything  one  has  a  mind  to  give  them,  and  with  a  few  pounds  of  beef  and  a  little  tobacco  they 
went  off  perfectly  satisfied. 

March  1. — The  morning  was  cool  and  windy,  and  riding  uncomfortable.  After  thirty-eight 
miles  of  rapid  travelling,  we  camped  on  the  Wallah- Wallah  river.  This  stream,  at  camp,  is  nar 
row,  deep,  and  rapid,  and  its  banks  are  skirted  with  a  narrow  growth  of  cotton-wood,  alder,  and 
willow.  The  prairie  between  Snake  river  and  the  Wallah-Wallah  is  high-rolling,  and  sometimes 
hilly,  without  a  tree,  shrub,  or  rivulet.  Its  soil,  however,  is  good,  and  supports  very  fair  grass. 

March  2. — We  reached  Wallah- Wallah  early  on  the  2d,  and  partook  of  the  hospitality  of  Mr. 
Pambrun,  its  governor,  for  the  night. 

The  next  morning,  having  procured  a  relay  of  fresh  animals,  we  continued  on  down  the  left 
bank  of  the  Columbia,  and  camped  ten  miles  from  the  fort. 

March  4. — For  twenty  miles  below  Wallah-Wallah  the  trail  winds  along  under  beetling  banks, 
from  whose  inaccessible  cliffs  the  bald  eagle  watches  his  prey  below.     The  bluffs  then  fall  back 
in  a  slope  to  the  high  inland  prairie.     The  soil  is  sandy  and  barren,  and  almost  the  only  vegeta- 
65  / 


514 


FROM    HEADWATERS    OF    THE    MISSOURI    TO    DALLES    OF    THE   COLUMBIA. 


tion  that  covers  the  surface,  except  in  a  few  more  favored  spots,  is  scrubby  wormwood.  The 
river  is  wide,  and  well  stocked  with  ducks  and  geese,  which  congregate  in  great  numbers  on  its 
sandy  points  and  bars. 

At  the  end  of  about  thirty-five  miles  we  camped  on  the  best  point  for  grass  that  could  be  found, 
but  it  was  still  poor.  Soon  after,  a  canoe  which  was  dropping  leisurely  down  the  river,  with  a 
load  of  whooping  and  singing  Indians,  approached  the  shore,  and  its  variegated  crew  favored  us 
with  a  visit.  Being  on  their  way  to  the  Dalles,  they  were  all  dressed  in  their  Sunday's  best — 
in  old  clothes,  cast  off  probably  by  emigrants,  which  were  so  patched  with  different  colors  that 
it  was  difficult  to  see  of  what  color  the  original  garment  had  been.  One  of  them,  proud  of  his 
exterior,  and  wishing  to  show  that  in  addition  to  his  fine  appearance  he  was  a  man  of  "  means," 
pulled  out  a  small  piece  of  buckskin,  carefully  unrolled  it,  and  produced  two  ce?its,  which,  after 
shakino-  with  great  complacency,  he  as  carefully  rolled  up  again  and  put  back.  Another  small 
party  from  a  camp  near  by  looked  in  upon  us  about  sunset.  One  of  this  band  brought  a  pack  of 
cards  rolled  up  in  a  greasy  rag,  and  was  very  solicitous  to  get  up  a  game. 

Last  night  it  rained  till  nearly  morning,  when  it  turned  into  sleet,  and  at  sunrise  discontinued 
altogether,  though  it  remained  damp  and  heavy  this  forenoon. 

On  the  5th  we  travelled  about  30  miles.  The  country  was  more  broken  and  rocky  than  yes 
terday,  near  the  river,  but  the  soil  was  about  the  same.  On  a  shingle  beach  which  we  passed 
soon  after  noon,  I  picked  up  a  few  small  pieces  of  agate,  obsidian,  onyx,  and  petrified  wood. 

March  6. — Camped  on  the  "Des  Chutes"  river.  The  banks  have  been  high  and  rugged  on 
both  sides,  but  the  soil  on  the  flats  has  been  much  better.  On  some  of  them,  grass  of  this  year's 
growth  is  several  inches  high  and  quite  thick. 

The  "  Des  Chutes"  river  is  about  12  miles  from  the  Dalles,  and  after  fording  it  on  the  morning 
of  the  7th,  it  may  be  imagined  that  no  time  was  lost  till  we  jumped  off  our  horses  for  the  last 
time,  and  our  feet  again  touched  civilized  soil. 

Temperature,  &c. 


Date. 

Temperature. 

Remarks. 

At  sunrise. 

At  12  m. 

At  sunset. 

1854. 
Jan.     2  

o 

O 

o 
+55 

High  SW^  winds  and  thick  heavy  clouds 

3  

+20 

+12 

+  6 

4  

—12 

—10 

—16 

snowing. 
Morning,  wind  NNW.,  and  snowing'  at  noon,  breaking  away;  at 

5  

—11 

0 

4-  l 

sunset,  clear  ;  wind  west;  slight  breeze. 
Sunrise,  wind  SSW.  stron";  at  noon,  samo  ;  sunset,  S. 

6  

+20 

+17 

+20 

At  sunrise  and  noon,  wind  S  W. 

7  

+30 

+33 

+32 

Wind  S\V.  all  day. 

8  

+3(3 

+51 

+46 

Wind  SVV.  all  day;  nearlv  clear  in  morning,  but  overcast  at  night. 

9  

+39 

+  44 

+38 

At  sunrise  and  noon,  wind  S\V. 

10  

+16 

+36 

+28 

Sunrise,  clear  ;  at  noon  and  sunset,  a  slight  breeze  from  SW.  ;  at 

11  

+32 

+32 

+32 

sunset,  sky  overcast. 
Wind  from  W.  all  day  ;  at  noon  and  sunset,  stormy. 

12  

—16 

*—  21 

—18 

*The  noon  observation  was  taken  on  dividing  ridge  at  12  m.  ;  and 

13  

—24 

—19 

—23 

at  sunset,  wind  NE. 
Stormy  all  day,  and  wind  NE. 

14  

—25 

—15 

—16 

Light  winds  from  NE.  all  day  ;  morning  cloudy;  afternoon  clear. 

15  

—34 

__  i 

—18 

Clear,  and  without  wind. 

16  

—38 

—  1 

—21 

Do.                   do. 

17  

+  8 

Cloudy  all  day;  at  noon,  wind  NE.,  and  snowing;  at  sunset,  clear. 

18 

—  13 

—  6 

19          

—  16 

—  8 

—  14 

Fair  ;  no  wind. 

20  

—23 

—  2 

-6 

At  noon,  wind  SW.  ;  snowing  a  little;  at  sunset,  clear. 

21  

1 

7 

9 

Sunrise,  wind  NE.  ;  snowing  ;  noon,  wind  SVV.  ;  at  sunset,  clear. 

22  

1 

7 

30  

42 

39 

Sunrise  cloudy 

31.. 

H 

62 

42 

Sunrise,  wind  SW.  :  noon,  rainv:  sunset,  wind  SW.  ;  rainy. 

LETTER   TO    THE   SECRETARY   OF   WAR. 
Temperature,  dc. — Continued. 


516 


Date. 

Temperature. 

Remarks. 

At  sunrise. 

At  12  m. 

At  sunset. 

1854. 
Feb.    1  

o 
28 

0 

25 

o 
25 

Wind  W    and  cloudy  all  day 

2  

13 

34 

26 

Mostly  clear. 

3  

13 

39 

39 

Sunset  cloudy  with  stron"  SW  wind 

4  

36 

42 

39 

Cloudy,  and  snowing  a  little  till  sunset. 

5  

15 

4'2 

30 

Very  few  clouds. 

6  

26 

34 

35 

At  sunrise,  wind  SW.,  and  overcast  all  day. 

7  

33 

41 

36 

Cloudy  all  day. 

8  

33 

45 

37 

Overcast  all  day  •  at  noon,  wind  SW.  ;  at  sunset,  NW. 

9  

34 

42 

37 

Overcast  all  day. 

10  

30 

39 

35 

Latter  part  of  the  day  rainy. 

11  

33 

35 

30 

12  

23 

35 

30 

Cloudy,  and  snowing  a  little  all  day. 

13  

23 

36 

30 

14  

15 

28 

26 

Noon  overcast,  and  snowing  a  little  for  the  rest  of  the  day 

15  

22 

26 

25 

Overcast,  and  breeze  from  the  west  all  day. 

16  

+23 

+37 

+28 

Wind  NW.  most  of  the  day  ;  cloudy  all  day. 

17  

0-25 

+33 

+30 

Morning  cloudy,  with  NW  wind 

18  

+26 

+39 

+32 

Morning  cloudy  and  snowy;  rest  of  the  day  fine. 

19  

+15 

+42 

+28 

Morning  overcast  ;  evenin"  cloudy. 

20  

+26 

+37 

+34 

Snowed  till  3  o'clock  ;  evenin^  cloudy. 

21  

+29 

4-41 

+34 

Cloudy  all  day. 

22  

+24 

+42 

+38 

Cloudy  all  day;  at  3  o'clock  NE.  wind  sprang  up. 

23  

+33 

+38 

+34 

Morning,  snow  fallin0"  afternoon,  fair. 

24  

+25 

+51 

+33 

Clear  and  bright. 

25  

+33 

+40 

+35 

Morning  cloudy  •  12  m  wind  SW.  and  sleeting  ;  sunset  saina 

26  

+32 

+42 

+35 

Wind  SW  all  day;  a  few  clouds 

27  

+35 

+47 

+41 

Wind  SW.  all  day;  morning  overcast;  all  day  cloudy 

28  

+31 

+46 

+45 

Momin°r  cloudy  ;  rest  of  the  day  fair. 

Mar.    1  

+41 

+45 

+42 

Wind  SW.  all  day. 

2  

+33 

+45 

Cloudy,  with  showers  all  day. 

3 

+43 

4-41 

4   

-1-34 

+46 

+40 

Cloudy  and  heavy  in  the  morning,  but  fair  the  rest  of  the  day 

5  

+35 

+49 

+46 

Morning  cloudy  ;  evening  fair,  with  SE.  breeze. 

6  

+37 

+54 

-4-45 

Fair,  with  breeze  from  W 

To  Gov.  I.  I.  STEVENS. 


C.  GROVER, 

Lieutenant  U.  S.  Army. 


LETTER  OF   GOVERNOR  I.   I.   STEVENS  TO  THE    SECRETARY  OF  WAR,   TRANSMITTING   REPORTS 

OF  LIEUTENANT  JOHN  MULLAN,  U.  S.  A. 

OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

January  3,  1855. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  herewith  to  transmit  the  reports  of  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  giving  the 
results  of  his  explorations  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  in  pursuance  of  my  instructions  posting  him  in 
October,  1853,  in  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  made  since  his  examination  of  the  Little  Blackfoot 
passes,  in  March,  1854,  which  was  at  the  time  made  the  subject  of  a  report  and  included  in  the 
various  reports  submitted  with  my  general  railroad  report  of  the  30th  of  June,  1854. 

The  reports  are  as  follows : 

1.  Report  dated  Cantonment  Stevens,  Bitter  Root  Valley,  May  8,  1854,  of  his  examination  of 
the  country  from  the  Bitter  Root  valley  to  the  Flathead  lake  and  the  Kootenaie  river. 

2.  Report  of  his  subsequent  operations,  including  his  examination  of  a  pass  over  the  Cceur 
d' Alene  mountains,  which  will  furnish  an  excellent  wagon  road,  and  probably  a  practicable  railroad 
line. 

3.  A  general  meteorological  reporl. 


516  FROM    BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY    TO    FLATHEAD    LAKE    AND    KOOTENAY   RIVER. 

I  also  include  with  these  reports  two  maps  of  the  country  explored. 

These  reports  I  submit  with  great  satisfaction,  as  they  contribute  materially  to  our  knowledge 
of  the  country,  and  present  Lieutenant  Mullan  as  an  officer  of  judgment  and  enterprise.  In  a 
special  report  of  this  date,  I  have  urged  that  Lieutenant  Mullan  should  be  continued  on  duty  in 
exploring  the  country,  with  which  he  is  now  so  familiar. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington,  D.  C. 


REPORT    OF    LIEUTENANT  JOHN    MULLAN,    U.  S.    A.,  OF  HIS    EXAMINATION    OF    THE    COUNTRY    FROM 
THE     BITTER  ROOT    VALLEY  TO    THE    FLATHEAD  LAKE  AND    KOOTENAY    RIVER. 

« 

CANTONMENT  STEVENS,  BITTER  ROOT  VALLEY, 

Washington  Territory,  May  S,  1854. 

SIR  :  Agreeably  to  your  letter  of  instructions  to  continue  the  exploration  of  the  country  between 
the  Rocky  and  Bitter  Root  ranges  of  mountains,  extending  as  far  north  as  the  Flathead  lake, 
and  even  the  upper  waters  of  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  I  have  the  honor  to  report  that  I 
started  from  the  Bitter  Root  valley  on  the  14th  of  April,  to  make  the  said  exploration,  my 
working  party  consisting  of  Mr.  Adams,  assistant;  Gabriel,  my  interpreter;  two  of  my  men, 
Gates  and  Sohon,  and  an  Indian  boy. 

As  it  was  impossible  to  secure  a  guide  from  among  the  Flathead  Indians  who  knew  anything 
of  the  country  to  the  north,  it  became  necessary  to  visit  the  Pend  d'Oreilles'  camp,  in  order  to 
secure  a  man  who  could  give  me  some  information  as  to  the  character  of  that  section.  I  intended, 
after  making  an  examination  of  the  Flathead  lake,  the  character  of  the  Clark's  fork  at  the  inlet 
and  outlet,  and  its  general  character  north  of  the  lake,  to  cross  the  ridge  of  mountains  to  the 
west  of  Clark's  fork,  striking  the  Kootenay  river,  and  examine  the  section  of  country  watered 
by  that  stream  and  its  tributaries  which  flow  from  the  east  and  south. 

My  only  knowledge  of  that  region  was  based  upon  Mr.  Tinkham's  reconnaissance  along  the 
Flathead  lake  to  the  so-called  Marias  Pass ;  and  this  gave  me  but  very  little  information,  as  I 
had  merely  a  sketch  of  the  Clark's  fork  and  the  lake,  and  no  description  whatever  as  to  the 
character  of  the  broad  area  from  whence  flow  the  many  streams  to  each  of  these  two  large  trib 
utaries  of  the  Columbia. 

It  is  true,  I  had  for  reference  a  tracing  compiled  from  information,  and  a  map  of  our  western 
territories  as  compiled  by  the  Topographical  Bureau  in  1850,  but  I  found  these  so  essentially 
wrong  in  detail  that  I  did  much  better  without  than  with  them.  I  anticipated  much  trouble  from 
the  high  waters  of  the  many  streams  I  should  be  obliged  to  cross,  but  resolved  to  make  the 
exploration  at  this  time,  or  I  might  be  compelled  to  defer  it  until  late  in  the  summer ;  and,  as  the 
latter  part  of  this  report  will  show  you,  we  came  near  paying  for  it  with  our  lives,  for  my  whole 
party  was  near  being  drowned  while  rafting  the  Hell  Gate  river. 

On  account  of  the  high  water  in  the  Bitter  Root  river,  which  was  swimming  deep,  I  followed 
down  its  right  bank  until  reaching  the  Hell  Gate  river,  on  the  right  bank  of  which  we  camped 
the  second  night  from  Cantonment  Stevens.  We  found  the  stream  much  swollen  by  the  melting 
of  the  snow  in  the  mountains,  though  we  crossed  it  when  going  towards  the  north  without  much 
difficulty.  My  first  camp  was  with  Mr.  Irwin  and  some  Pend  d'Oreilles,  who  being  on  their 
route  to  the  emigrant  road  at  Fort  Hall,  lost  fifty  head  of  horses,  stolen  on  the  12th  of  April  by 
the  Blackfeet.  Being  thus  robbed  of  everything,  they  were  compelled  to  remain  in  camp  until 
they  could  be  befriended. 


FROM    BITTER   ROOT    VALLEY    TO   FLATHEAD    LAKE   AND   KOOTENAY   RIVER.  517 

These  Blackfeet  had  been  in  the  mountains  apparently  several  weeks,  had  built  themselves  a 
fort,  and  had  killed  two  cows  from  the  valley,  the  meat  of  which  they  had  dried.  They  left  in 
the  fort  seven  pairs  of  snow-shoes  and  many  trinkets. 

Seventeen  Flatheads  and  Pend  d'Oreilles  pursued  acro&s  the  mountains,  through  deep  snow 
and  timber,  but  succeeded  not  in  overtaking  them ;  and  thus  these  hell-hounds  made  off  with  a 
large  and  valuable  band  of  fat  horses. 

Hearing  this,  I  sent  an  Indian  back  to  my  camp  with  instructions  to  have  our  animals  guarded 
during  the  day  and  corralled  at  night,  thus  using  every  precaution  in  securing  a  large  and  valuable 
band  of  government  animals,  which  are  by  no  means  safe  from  these  well  known  and  noted 
horse-thieves  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

We  resumed  our  march  on  the  morning  of  the  16th,  in  a  heavy  rain-storm ;  our  trail  for  seven 
miles  being  over  a  rolling  prairie,  when  we  entered  Conacan's  defile.  This  is  a  defile  in  the 
mountains  separating  the  Jocko  river  from  the  Hell  Gate :  it  is  so  named  from  the  fact  that  three 
Kanakas,  bearing  this  name,  were  killed  here  some  years  ago  by  the  Blackfeet.  We  found  the 
road  very  rough  and  rocky,  with  much  fallen  timber  along  the  trail.  On  the  summit  of  this 
divide  is  a  small  prairie  called  the  "  Camash  Prairie."  It  is  here  where  the  Pend  d'Oreilles,  at 
times,  dig  the  camash  root. 

Gaining  the  base  of  the  divide  on  the  north,  we  struck  the  "Course  des  Femmes,"  a  small 
stream  that  empties  into  the  Jocko.  It  is  so  named  from  the  fact  that  here  formerly  the  Indian 
women  ran  races.  It  flows  through  a  level  and  beautiful  prairie,  where  we  found  the  grass  very 
rich  and  green.  The  camash  grows  here  quite  abundantly. 

Travelling  a  few  miles  farther  in  this  prairie  we  struck  the  Jocko,  which  we  had  to  our  right. 
This  we  found  quite  a  large  stream,  being  now  swollen  by  the  melting  of  the  snow  in  the  mount 
ains.  We  crossed  it  five  times  during  the  day,  it  being  ford  able  at  each  crossing.  At  a  distance 
of  thirty-six  miles  from  the  Hell  Gate  we  struck  the  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  encamping 
on  its  left  bank  a  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Jocko. 

This  stream  we  found  very  much  swollen ;  we  tried  the  ford  during  the  evening,  but  found  the 
water  very  deep,  and,  as  it  was  necessary  to  go  as  far  as  Horse  Plain  before  seeing  an  Indian 
who  could  guide  us  in  a  northern  direction,  we  were  compelled  to  build  rafts  to  cross  the  river. 
So,  setting  the  party  at  work  after  arriving  in  camp,  we  had  at  the  river's  edge  by  sunset  timber 
sufficient  for  two  rafts,  so  that  early  on  the  morning  of  the  17th  we  made  our  rafts  and  crossed 
everything  in  safety  to  the  opposite  bank.  The  river  at  this  point  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
wide,  and  in  the  channel  we  could  not  find  bottom,  having  tried  it  with  poles  fifteen  feet  long. 
Thence  resuming  our  march  down  the  right  bank  of  the  Clark's  fork,  we  found  the  trail  leading 
over  a  somewhat  rough  and  difficult  road.  It  lay  principally  along  the  side-hill,  where  had 
broken  off  numberless  rocks  and  fragments  of  rock,  affording  us  a  very  difficult  road;  a  much 
better  road  we  found  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  as  there  is  a  low  level  beach  extending  to 
the  point  of  the  river  where  it  enters  a  steep  mountain  canon.  Where  the  trail  leaves  the  river 
it  is  fordable  in  low  water,  and  during  high  water  it  could  be  rafted.  The  trail  on  the  right  bank 
bends  to  the  northwest,  and  does  not  strike  the  river  again  till  it  reaches  Horse  Plain.  Travelling 
a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  we  passed  in  the  Camash  prairie  Michelle  Ogden,  the  gentleman 
in  charge  of  Fort  Conna,  on  the  Flathead  river,  when  we  encamped  for  the  night.  Finding  here 
some  Indians,  I  secured  one  who  could  guide  me  to  the  forks  of  Clark's  fork.  As  I  was  informed 
here  that  it  was  impossible  to  reach  the  Kootenay  river  at  this  season  on  account  of  the  great 
depth  of  the  snow  in  the  mountains,  I  concluded  to  go  as  far  as  the  forks  of  the  river,  and  then 
strike  to  the  west  and  reach  Camash  prairie  by  a  different  route,  unless  I  could  find  a  guide 
at  the  Pend  d'Orcille  camp  who  would  guaranty  to  guide  me  through  to  the  Kootenay  river. 
The  Camash  prairie  referred  to  is  nearly  a  circular  prairie  in  the  mountains,  and  perfectly 
level.  The  grass  this  season  growing  in  it  is  exceedingly  green  and  abundant.  It  is  sheltered 
on  every  side  by  high  hills  and  mountains,  the  soil  is  very  fertile,  and  there  is  no  better  spot  in 


518  FROM    BITTER    ROOT   VALLEY   TO    FLATHEAD   LAKE   AND    KOOTENAY    RIVEE. 

the  mountains  either  for  agricultural  or  grazing  purposes  than  this  beautiful  valley.  It  is  true 
that  during  some  seasons  the  snow  is  found  to  be  very  deep,  but  it  is  not  of  long  duration ;  during 
the  spring  and  summer  seasons  it  is  a  great  resort  for  the  Pend  d'Oreilles,  for  here  they  find 
cam  ash  and  bitter  root  in  abundance,  their  principal  roots  for  food. 

Finding  excellent  grass,  we  remained  in  camp  on  the  18th.  We  were  visited  by  several  showers 
of  rain  during  the  day.  Whilst  here  I  was  compelled  to  remark  the  generosity  and  kindness  of 
the  Indians  and  half-breeds  among  whom  we  had  pitched  our  camp.  Having  here  a  number  of 
cows,  they  brought  to  us  milk  in  such  abundance  that  our  lodge  might  have  been  taken  for  a  dairy, 
more  than  the  shelter  of  a  small  party  of  mountain  travellers.  Their  presents  of  excellent  salt 
and  fresh  buffalo-tongues,  the  epicurean  dish  of  the  plains  or  mountains,  were  also  duly  appreciated. 
On  arriving  at  their  camp  the  evening  before,  the  women  of  the  camp  turned  out  "en  masse," 
pitched  our  lodge,  packed  our  wood,  built  our  fire,  and  would  probably  have  extended  the  limit  of 
their  kindness  much  farther  had  we  not  requested  them  to  desist. 

April  19. — I  intended  this  morning  to  visit  the  camp  of  the  Pend  d'Oreilles,  who  were  then 
on  the  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia.  At  the  distance  of  five  miles  in  an  easterly  direction  we 
gained  the  summit  of  a  low  ridge  of  hills,  or  mountains,  from  which  we  had  an  excellent  view  of 
the  valley  of  the  Clark's  fork.  The  river  in  front  of  us  flowed  through  high  clay  banks,  while 
the  country  to  the  east  for  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  was  somewhat  broken  with  several  small 
streams  winding  their  way  from  the  mountains,  which  here  formed  a  very  high  snow-covered 
ridge.  The  mountains  were  very  rough  and  rugged,  many  peaks  being  jagged,  while  others 
assumed  a  dome-shape  and  towered  their  sun-capped  summits  high  above  the  level  of  the  .valley. 
The  country  to  our  right  and  left  appeared  to  be  one  immense  bed  of  rugged  hills,  their  tops 
being  well  timbered  with  the  pine.  Gaining  the  base  of  this  ridge,  we  struck  a  small  but  swift  and 
deep  stream  called  the  Hot  Spring  creek,  which  takes  its  rise  from  a  range  of  mountains  to  the 
north.  We  followed  along  the  right  bank  of  this  stream  to  its  mouth,  where  it  empties  into  the 
Clark's  fork;  it  is  now  about  twenty  yards  wide,  and  in  places  very  deep.  Having  made  a 
distance  of  thirteen  miles,  we  encamped  at  its  mouth  on  the  Clark's  fork.  We  met  on  the  trail 
to-day  two  Indians  from  the  Pend  d'Oreilles'  camp,  who  had  been  sent  by  their  chief,  on  hearing 
of  our  being  in  their  country,  to  ask  us  to  visit  his  camp.  This  we  had  intended  to  do  without  a 
formal  invitation,  as  we  desired  to  gain  information  from  them  as  to  the  character  of  the  country 
to  the  north  at  this  season,  and  to  ascertain  from  them,  and  some  Kootenay  Indians  whom  we 
heard  were  camped  with  them,  as  to  the  snows  in  the  mountains  and  the  character  of  the  country 
generally  to  the  head-waters  of  Clark's  fork  and  to  the  Kootenay  river.  We  found  encamped 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Hot  Spring  creek,  Alexander,  the  principal  chief  of  the  Pend  d'Oreilles,  with 
forty-seven  lodges.  We  also  found  encamped  higher  up  on  the  creek  some  twelve  or  fifteen 
lodges  of  Kootenays,  Spokanes,  and  Pend  d'Oreilles. 

We  had  a  talk  with  these  Indians,  who  appeared  very  glad  to  see  us;  and  an  old  Yakima  chief 
named  Ow-hi,  the  great  friend  of  the  white  men,  being  in  this  camp  with  a  broken  leg,  sent  for 
us,  and  requested  us  to  come  and  see  him.  We  visited  him,  and  found  him  to  be  a  noble  and 
generous  Indian.  He  is  a  large  man,  and  has  an  open  and  benevolent  face.  He  has  letters  from 
several  whites,  and  having  been  among  and  having  seen  much  of  them,  he  is  now  their  firm  and 
stanch  friend,  and  deserves  humane  and  kind  treatment  at  the  hands  of  every  white  man  with 
whom  he  should  meet.  We  ascertained  in  the  camp  of  the  Pend  d'Oreilles  that  the  country  north 
towards  the  Kootenay  river  was  not  so  bad  as  had  been  represented  to  us  the  day  before;  but, 
on  the  contrary,  we  learned  there  was  no  snow  in  the  mountains,  and  the  greatest  difficulty  we 
should  have  before  reaching  the  Kootenay  river  would  be  the  fallen  timber  in  places  and  high 
water,  both  of  which  I  did  not  deem  insuperable  obstacles  to  keep  us  back;  so,  securing  an 
Indian  who  knew  something  of  the  country,  we  resumed  our  march  early  on  the  next  day,  trav 
elling  up  and  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Clark's  fork.  The  river  we  found  to-day  very  tortuous, 
making  numerous  and  large  bends.  It  flowed  mostly  through  high  clay  banks,  the  border*  on 


FROM    BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY    TO    FLATHEAD    LAKE    AND    KOOTENAT    RIVER.  519 

either  side  being  much  cut  up  by  numerous  but  small  coulees,  which  gave  the  whole  section 
the  appearance  of  the  country  along  the  upper  portion  of  the  Missouri.  The  soil  is  principally  a 
light  yellow  clay,  so  that  there  is  little  difference  in  appearance  between  this  district  along  the 
Clark's  fork  and  the  Mauvaises  Terres  of  the  Missouri.  The  river  we  found  to  be  two  hundred 
yards  wide,  and  swift  and  deep.  Its  banks  are  sparsely  timbered  with  the  pine  and  cedar  ;  some 
few  trees  of  the  cotton- wood  and  quaking  asp  were  to  be  seen  along  its  banks ;  but  the  principal 
trees  were  the  pine  and  red  cedar,  both  being  of  a  small  growth.  Gaining  a  high  point  of  view 
on  our  march,  we  could  trace  the  windings  of  the  river  for  many  miles,  by  the  long  line  of  timber 
skirting  its  borders.  We  had  an  excellent  view  of.  the  country  in  every  direction  save  to  the 
east,  our  view  here  being  limited  by  the  high  range  of  snow-clad  mountains  mentioned  yesterday. 
This  range  has  a  direction  nearly  north  and  south,  and  is  exceedingly  high.  It  runs  along  the 
eastern  border  of  the  lake  its  whole  length,  which,  during  high  water,  forms  its  left  bank  or  shore; 
it  thence  continues  up  the  Clark's  fork  to  its  head.  At  about  fifty  miles  north  of  the  lake  is  a  spur 
of  equal  height  bending  to  the  west,  and  extending  to  the  Kootenay  river.  -The  country  to  the 
north  from  whence  we  viewed  it  appeared  to  be  one  immense  bed  of  mountains  and  rugged  hills. 
The  country  south  of  the  Flathead  lake,  and  between  the  range  of  mountains  referred  to  and  the 
Clark's  fork,  is  much  broken  in  appearance  from  a  point  of  view  twenty  miles  distant.  Through 
this  section  flow  two  small  streams,  the  more  northern  of  the  two  being  called  the  Crow  river, 
and  the  other  the  Birch — so  named  from  the  great  abundance  of  that  timber  found  on  its  borders. 
Travelling  a  distance  of  twenty-three  and  a  half  miles  we  reached  the  southern  end  of  the  lake, 
at  the  point  where  the  Clark's  fork  leaves  it;  here  we  encamped  for  the  night.  The  river  at  the 
outlet  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide ;  the  current  is  not  rapid,  but  at  a  distance  of  half  a 
mile  begins  a  series  of  rapids  and  falls  that  extend  down  the  river  for  eight  miles.  There  is  one 
fall  in  this  distance  of  fifteen  feet.  The  lake  at  its  southern  extremity  is  about  four  miles  wide 
at  this  season,  and  at  a  point  six  or  eight  miles  above  makes  three  beautiful  islands,  which  ob 
structed  our  view  to  the  north.  Its  southern  border  is  sparsely  wooded  with  the  pine ;  the  country 
to  the  west  along  its  southern  and  western  border  being  high-rolling  prairie. 

We  found  at  the  lake  four  lodges  of  the  Pend  d'Oreilles,  who  have  been  here  some  weeks  fish 
ing  ;  they  presented  us,  on  arriving  at  their  camp,  with  some  fine  fresh  and  dried  salmon-trout. 
This  lake,  and  also  the  Clark's  fork  here,  abounds  in  excellent  fish,  the  salmon-trout  being  the 
most  abundant.  These  latter. are  caught  from  the  lake,  often  measuring  three  feet  long.  It  forms 
one  of  the  chief  articles  of  food  for  the  Pend  d'Oreilles  at  this  season.  During  the  winter  they 
often  camp  here  when  the  lake  is  frozen  over,  when,  cutting  holes  in  the  ice,  they  secure  an 
abundance  of  these  most  excellent  fish.  While  here,  during  the  night  we  were  aroused  by  a 
noise  from  the  river,  when,  going  to  see  whence  it  came,  we  found  three  men  swimming  the 
Clark's  fork ;  they  had  been  fishing  on  the  opposite  bank,  and,  having  secured  a  large  number, 
they  were  returning  to  their  homes.  The  night  was  somewhat  cold,  yet  such  is  the  hardiness  of 
these  men  that  they  think  nothing  of  undergoing  fatigue  of  this  character.  On  their  arrival  at 
our  camp  they  presented  us  with  a  number  of  these  so  dearly  earned  but  excellent  fish.  We 
were  visited  during  the  evening  and  night  by  several  very  heavy  showers  of  rain. 

April  21. — We  travelled  to-day  along  the  western  border  of  the  lake.  At  a  distance  of  two 
miles  from  our  camp,  we  left  the  lake  about  two  miles  to  the  right,  as  the  bluffs  here  came  to 
the  water's  edge,  and  there  is  a  trail  only  during  low  water.  Here  \ve  entered  a  fine  forest, 
through  which  we  travelled  for  five  miles,  when  we  again  struck  the  lake.  While  travelling 
through  this  timber  we  found  a  small  but  beautiful  lake,  called  the  Turtle  lake.  It  is  about  half 
a  mile  long,  and  five  hundred  yards  wide.  The  pine  growing  in  this  thicket  is  high  and  straight. 

Striking  the  lake  a  second  time,  we  had  an  excellent  view,  although  much  limited  on  account 
of  the  hazy  and  cloudy  weather.  Several  large  and  beautiful  islands  lay  near  the  middle  of  the 
lake,  all  covered  with  an  excellent  growth  of  pine ;  many  of  these  islands  are  several  miles  long. 
On  one  of  these,  called  the  "  Wild  Horse"  island,  is  a  band  of  wild  horses  that  belong  to  a  Pend 


520  FROM    BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY    TO    FLATHEAD    LAKE    AND    KOOTENAY    RIVER. 

d'Oreille  Indian.  Some  }rears  ago  the  father  of  this  man  had  horses  stolen  from  him  by  the 
Blackfeet.  In  retaliation  he  stole  a  number  from  the  Blackfeet,  and  put  them  on  this  island,  all 
of  which  he  intended  for  the  benefit  of  his  children.  There  is  now  a  band  of  sixty  or  seventy 
horses,  and  only  a  few  days  ago  they  took  off  a  band  of  forty-five.  The  lake  makes  many  bends ; 
at  its  greatest  width  I  estimated  it  to  be  eight  miles.  Travelling  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles,  we 
reached  a  small  creek  emptying  into  the  lake,  and  called  the  "  Eclehu."  Here  we  found  en 
camped  four  lodges  of  Pend  d'Oreilles ;  and  as  the  grass  was  excellent,  I  concluded  to  camp,  and 
give  our  animals  a  hearty  repast,  as  it  was  possible  that  we  should  have  a  rugged  and  difficult 
country  to  the  north,  which  would  require  our  animals  to  be  in  good  condition  to  withstand  the 
fati<nies  of  the  journey.  The  Indians  here  camped,  as  those  we  met  on  yesterday,  were  engaged 
in  fishing  for  the  salmon-trout.  They  had  traps  set,  and  had  been  very  successful.  The  weather 
to-day  has  been  exceedingly  gloomy  and  disagreeable,  raining  during  the  greater  portion  of 
the  day,  and  at  times  exceedingly  heavy.  I  found  the  soil  of  the  country  passed  over  to-day 
exceedingly  fertile,  and  it  is  well  adapted  to  grazing.  The  lake,  as  on  yesterday,  we  found 
skirted  with  small  pine  and  cedar;  all  the  hills  and  mountains,  however,  bordering  the  lake,  are 
well  timbered  with  the  pine.  We  were  told  by  the  guide  that  one  mile  from  the  "Eclehu"  is  a 
small  but  beautiful  lake ;  it  was  only  a  short  distance  from  our  trail,  but  was  hid  from  view  by  a 
low  ridge  of  hills. 

April  22. — We  were  visited  last  night  by  a  cold  snow-storm,  which  continued  unabated  until 
nearly  11  a.  m.,  when  it  cleared  off,  and  became  bright  sunshine  for  a  short  time.  1  had  con 
cluded  to  remain  in  camp  during  the  day ;  but  thinking  it  to  result  in  greater  advantage  to  the 
party  to  progress  on  our  journey,  we  started  at  11.30  a.  m.,  along  the  western  border  of  the  Flat- 
head  lake.  At  12  m.  it  commenced  snowing  again,  and  continued  throughout  the  day,  with  great 
force ;  but  the  ground  being  warm,  it  melted  as  fast  as  it  fell.  Our  trail  to-day  lay  through  an 
immense  pine  forest,  in  the  greater  part  of  which  the  light  of  day  is  ever  excluded.  We  found 
the  travelling  more  difficult  than  on  any  day  out;  the  great  numbers  of  fallen  logs  and  large  trees 
impeded  our  progress,  compelling  us  many  times  to  go  around  them  for  many  yards  from  the 
trail.  This  pine  forest  extends  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  lake.  The  pine  is  very  excellent, 
growing  high  and  straight,  and  very  thick. 

When  the  day  shall  arrive  when  civilization  and  the  enterprise  of  the  whites  shall  have  fre 
quented  this  region,  this  immense  forest,  bordering  the  lake,  will  prove  of  immense  value  to 
Washington  Territory,  and  yield  an  abundant  revenue  to  the  industrious  hand.  The  lake,  along 
our  whole  course  to-day,  has  a  width  of  nearly  five  miles,  being  still  bordered  on  the  east  by  a 
high  range  of  snow  capped-mountains.  We  crossed  three  small  brooks  emptj'ing  into  the  lake, 
in  one  of  which  we  found  a  fish  weir,  set  by  the  Indians,  for  catching  the  salmon-trout.  Towards 
evening,  gaining  a  high  point  of  view  on  the  western  border  of  the  lake,  we  had  an  excellent 
prospect  of  the  country  to  the  east ;  we  could  trace  the  windings  of  a  large  stream  flowing  through 
two  high  snow-covered  ranges  of  mountains,  and  emptying  into  the  lake  about  three  miles  from 
the  point  where  the  Clark's  fork  enters  it.  This  stream  was  represented  by  the  Indians  to  be 
nearly  as  large  as  the  Clark's  fork.  This  latter  stream  enters  the  lake  at  the  northeast  end ;  I 
could,  with  my  glass,  trace  its  windings  for  some  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  inlet.  About  two 
miles  above  this  mouth  is  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream,  called  the  Swan  river,  that  flows  from  the 
east.  We  saw  many  geese  and  ducks,  to-day,  in  the  lake ;  but,  besides  a  single  grouse,  our  fare 
consisted  of  dried  buffalo-meat.  Travelling  a  distance  of  eighteen  miles,  we  encamped  at  the 
north  end  of  the  lake.  It  was  at  the  edge  of  a  pine  thicket;  but  as  this  was  the  last  place  that  we 
would  find  grass  for  our  animals  for  many  miles,  we  encamped  here,  though  at  the  risk  of  losing 
them  in  woods.  I  have  remarked,  that  on  this  lake  we  have  found  the  weather  much  more  cool 
than  before  reaching  it.  We  made  three  camps,  and  on  each  night  we  found  the  weather  very 
cold.  Our  camping-ground  of  this  night  was  represented  to  me  by  the  Indians  as  a  great  resort 
for  their  tribe  and  the  half-breeds  of  the  country  some  years  ago,  as  in  the  mountains  bordering 


FROM    BITTER   ROOT    VALLEY   TO    FLATHEAD    LAKE   AND   KOOTENAY   RIVER.  521 

the  lake  immense  numbers  of  deer  and  elk  were  found,  while  the  lake  afforded  its  usual  abund 
ance  of  excellent  fish,  but  now  little  if  any  game  is  found  throughout  this  whole  region;  yet  this 
beautiful  lake  has  lost  none  of  its  pristine  character  in  yielding  to  the  fisherman  a  rich  and  abund 
ant  harvest  at  all  seasons.  May  it  not  be,  in  years  to  come,  when  this  hitherto  neglected  region 
shall  become  a  thickly  settled  district,  that  the  lumber  and  the  fisheries  of  this  beautiful  lake  of 
the  mountains  shall  constitute  one  of  the  chief  articles  of  trade  from  this  region,  and  return  to  the 
coffers  of  the  future  State  of  Washington  a  handsome  and  valuable  revenue? 

Cannot  navigation  be  extended  from  the  Pacific  to  the  very  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains? 
What  is  there  to  prevent  it?  Are  there  insuperable  obstacles  in  the  way?  No;  in  my  humble 
judgment,  I  think  not.  Let  but  the  enterprise  and  the  ingenuity  of  the  Yankee  nation  once  be 
extended  to  this  now  secluded  and  neglected  region,  and  soon  will  be  seen  steamers  ploughing 
the  beautiful  waters  of  the  Columbia  from  its  mouth  to  the  base  of  the  mountains.  The  river 
always  affords,  except  during  three  months  of  the  year,  an  abundance  of  water  for  navigation  ; 
the  borders  of  the  stream  and  its  lakes  afford  a  sufficiency  of  fuel;  and  all  it  now  needs  is,  to 
have  the  Cascades,  the  Dalles,  and  the  few  falls  above  the  mouth  of  the  Lewis's  fork,  removed, 
to  complete  the  water  communication  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Rocky  mountains. 

April  23. — Continuing  for  a  short  distance  this  morning  through  the  pine  forest  passed  through 
yesterday,  we  emerged  into  a  broad,  open,  level,  and  beautiful  prairie,  that  extends  from  the 
north  end  of  Flathead  lake  for  a  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles  to  the  north  and  twenty  miles  to 
the  west.  The  soil  here  is  very  excellent,  and  the  great  number  of  sloughs,  small  lakes,  and 
ponds,  afford  an  abundance  of  small  game.  There  are  two  beautiful  streams  flowing  through  this 
prairie  bottom,  both  of  which  we  crossed  during  the  morning.  The  first  is  called  the  Cotton- 
wood  creek,  from  the  great  abundance  of  that  timber  found  on  its  borders ;  and  the  second  the 
Maple  river,  from  the  reported  abundance  of  this  timber  found  on  its  banks,  although  I  saw  none 
on  the  river  the  whole  distance  travelled.  Gaining  this  prairie,  we  could  trace  the  mountains  for 
many  miles.  We  observed  that  the  range  referred  to  several  times  as  running  along  the  eastern 
border  of  the  Flathead  lake,  continues  its  general  direction  of  northwest  and  southeast;  but  at  a 
distance  of  forty  or  fifty  miles  from  the  north  end  of.the  lake,  a  spur  of  this  range,  similar  in  all 
respects  to  the  main  range,  bends  more  to  the  west.  This  spur,  as  the  main  range,  was  cov 
ered  with  snow  to  midway  of  its  height.  The  mountains  here  are  all  well  wooded  with  pine ; 
their  summits  are  a  combination  of  jagged  and  serrated  peaks,  with  many  dome-shaped  peaks, 
all  covered  with  snow. 

The  Cotton-wood  creek  we  found  to  be  ten  yards  wide,  with  a  gentle  current;  water  in  the 
ford  two  feet  deep,  and  good  banks  on  either  side.  The  Maple  river  I  found  to  be  the  swiftest 
stream  that  I  have  ever  crossed  in  the  mountains.  It  flows,  at  the  ford,  over  a  rocky  bed.  The 
water  we  found  near  three  feet  deep,  and,  with  its  impetuous  current,  we  could  with  difficulty 
ford  it.  Most  of  our  packs  were  submerged,  and  everything  wet  in  the  crossing.  Before  cross 
ing  this  stream,  we  struck  again  the  Clark's  fork,  along  which  we  travelled  for  a  mile.  Here  the 
stream  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  flowing  with  a  sluggish  current  through  high  clay 
banks,  and  is  well  wooded  on  the  left  bank  with  the  cotton-wood  and  pine,  principally  the  former. 
The  water  is  not  clear,  but  is  colored  yellow  by  the  waters  of  the  Maple  river,  which  are  very 
turbid  at  this  season.  We  followed  up  the  Maple  river  on  its  left  bank  for  a  distance  of  ten 
miles,  our  trail  lying  partially  over  the  level  prairie  before  described,  and  partially  through  a 
dense  pine  forest.  The  timber  here  is  very  high  and  straight,  with  much  underbrush.  The  grass 
we  found  here  to  be  very  sparse  and  poor.  Gaining  a  small  prairie,  along  the  southern  edge  of 
which  the  Maple  river  flowed,  we  encamped,  having  travelled  a  distance  of  twenty-two  miles. 
We  found  here  poor  grass ;  but  as  the  guide  told  us  it  was  the  best  we  should  find  for  many 
miles,  our  animals  had  to  fare  upon  very  indifferent  repast.  The  day  has  been  bright,  warm, 
and  pleasant. 

66  / 


522  FROM    BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY   TO    FLATIIEA1)    LAKE    AND    KOOTENAY   RIVER. 

April  24. — Resuming  our  march  this  morning  at  8  a.  m.,  our  trail  continued  the  whole  dny 
through  one  immense  dense  forest.  In  many  places  we  found  no  trail  visible,  and  with  the  ex 
ceedingly  thick  undergrowth,  large  and  numerous  fallen  logs,  and  the  many  sloughs  and  mud- 
holes,  rendered  our  travelling  anything  but  enviable.  Our  trail  lay  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Maple 
river,  which,  about  fifteen  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night,  we  found  to  make  three  large  and 
beautiful  lakes — the  water  in  two  being  exceedingly  blue  and  deep ;  the  third  we  found  frozen 
over.  We  passed  over  small  banks  of  snow  to-day,  but  not  in  sufficient  quantities  to  impede  our 
progress ;  the  greatest  difficulty  that  we  found  was  to  travel  without  bruising  or  breaking  every 
limb,  from  the  standing  and  fallen  timber.  Truly,  I  considered  this  one  of  the  worst  roads,  if 
not  (he  worst,  ever  travelled  by  whites  or  Indians,  and  still  it  is  the  main  trail  of  travel  for  the 
Kootenays  from  their  countt  to  fHat  of  the  Pend  d'Oreilles.  Four  lodges  of  these  Indians  we 
met  in  the  dense  forest  to  day.  They  were  both  glad  and  astonished  to  see  us,  and  were  anx 
ious  to  know  our  point  of  destination  in  this  lonely  and  deserted  region.  We  observed,  as  soon 
as  we  met  these  poor  and  miserable  creatures,  that  they  had  been  visited  by  the  Jesuit  priests, 
for  on  shaking  hands  wilh  them  each  one  made  the  sign  of  the  cross.  These  families  were  trav 
elling  to  the  country  of  the  Pend  d'Oreilles. 

The  lower  Kootenay  Indians  are  represented — and  from  what  I  have  seen  I  can  corroborate  the 
same — as  being  an  exceedingly  poor,  improvident,  and  miserable  tribe  of  Indians.  They  are  poor 
in  horses,  have  few  or  no  skin  lodges,  make  but  little  meat  for  their  sustenance,  and,  in  a  word, 
live  a  miserable  existence.  We  found  them  poorly  and  thinly  clad,  travelling  with  few  horses, 
each  horse  carrying  two  and  sometimes  three  persons ;  their  lodges  were  made  of  mats  formed  of 
a  tall  rush  found  growing  in  the  marshes.  Their  chief  article  of  food  when  travelling  is  roots, 
and  fish  wrhen  at  home.  Their  language  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Blackfeet  Indians  east  of  the 
mountains. 

Travelling  a  few  miles  farther,  we  met  two  lodges  who  had  been  camped  in  the  woods  two 
days.  We  saw  only  the  women  and  children;  the  men  were  searching  for  lost  horses.  So  very 
scarce  is  the  grass  on  this  route,  and  so  difficult  the  road,  that  often  the  Indians  are  compelled 
to  camp  without  a  blade  of  grass  for  their  animals ;  we,  however,  were  very  fortunate,  at  night 
finding  a  low,  marshy  bottom,  which  afforded  our  animals  a  sufficient,  but  at  the  same  time  a 
scanty  fare. 

April  25. — Our  course  for  the  greater  portion  of  this  day  lay  again  through  an  immense,  dense 
pine  forest,  over  fallen  timber,  through  thick  underbrush,  and  innumerable  bogs,  mud-holes, 
and  sloughs.  The  soil,  since  leaving  the  large  prairie  at  the  north  end  of  the  Flathead  lake,  we 
ibund  very  poor  and  barren,  as  the  country  is  covered  with  an  immense  pine  forest,  from  which 
the  light  of  day  is  nearly  ever  excluded  ;  and  the  soil  being  formed  of  pine  burrs,  dead  timber, 
and  in  many  places  fragments  of  rocks,  it  precludes  the  possibility  of  anything  growing,  even  a 
scanty  fare  of  grass  for  the  animals  that  travel  over  its  uninviting  surface. 

At  12  rn.  we  gained  the  summit  of  the  divide  separating  the  waters  of  the  Clark's  fork  from 
those  of  the  Kootenay  river;  at  this  point  the  Maple  river  takes  its  rise.  On  the  summit  we  met 
;i  Kootenay  chief  with  two  lodges  of  his  tribe,  on  their  way  to  the  country  of  the  Pend  d'Oreilles, 
and  having  with  us  a  horse  much  wearied  we  turned  it  over  to  him,  to  be  delivered  to  Mr.  Ogden 
< luring  the  summer,  knowing  full  well  that  he  would  take  good  care  of  it,  and  no  other  alterna 
tive  was  remaining  but  to  abandon  it  on  the  road.  The  timber  is  not  so  dense  on  the  north  as 

•  in  the  south  side  of  the  divide;  it  being  much  larger,  was  more  scattered,  and  with  much  less 
undergrowth.     A  short  distance  from  the  summit  we  crossed  a  small  but  rapid  stream  whose 
waters  flow  into  the  Kootenay  river. 

We  crossed  during  the  afternoon  three  tributaries  of  this  branch,  upon  the  last  of  which  we 

•  •ncamped.     We  were  now  seven  miles  from  the  Kootenay  river,  having  entered  a  different  and 
l>y  far  better  region  than  we  had  been  travelling  through  for  some  days.     The  country  had  now 
become  a  high-rolling  prairie  opening,  which  extended  along  the  tributary  of  the  Kootenay  river 


FROM   BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY   TO    FLATHEAD   LAKE   AND   KOOTENAY   RIVER.  523 

referred  to,  for  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  the  same  in  width ;  the  grass  here  is  exceed 
ingly  rich  and  luxuriant.  I  determined  to  halt  and  rest  a  day,  to  recruit  the  animals,  which  had 
now  become  very  much  jaded  by  their  long  and  fatiguing  march;  and  on  the  morning  of  the  next 
day  (April  26th)  leaving  my  camp,  I  went  with  my  guide  and  interpreter  to  the  Kootenay  river. 
At  the  point  where  we  struck  the  river  we  found  it  to  be  four  hundred  yards  wide,  and  flowing 
through  low  banks,  with  a  gentle  current. 

The  country  on  its  left  bank  forms  an  immense,  low  prairie  bottom,  in  which  the  grass  grows 
luxuriantly;  this  extends  to  the  base  of  the  mountains  on  the  east.  The  country  on  the  right 
bank,  at  the  same  place,  is  formed  of  a  series  of  pine-clad  hills  that  extend  to  the  mountains  of 
the  north,  which  latter  are  very  high,  their  snow-capped  summits  seeming  lost  in  the  clouds. 
The  river  runs  for  many  miles  from  the  northeast,  through  two  high  ranges  of  snow-covered 
mountains,  many  of  whose  peaks  are  covered  with  snow  through  every  season. 

The  soil  along  the  Kootenay  river  is  very  fertile,  and  at  the  point  where  we  struck  it  was  car 
peted  by  a  beautiful  green  sward,  upon  which  was  growing  an  exceedingly  great  number  of  beauti 
fully-colored  and  varied  plants.  Here  I  made  a  rich  botanical  collection,  a  description  of  which  , 
from  my  limited  knowledge  of  that  science,  does  not  here  find  a  place,  but  is  left  for  more  able 
hands.  This  place  is  a  great  resort  for  the  Kootenay  Indians  when  not  hunting  in  the  mount 
ains,  as  here  is  found  at  every  season  an  abundance  of  excellent  and  nutritious  grass ;  the  winters 
are  represented  as  being  mild,  and  the  waters  of  the  Kootenaie  river  afford  them,  at  all  seasons, 
a  bountiful  supply  of  the  salmon-trout.  So  they  have  but  to  enjoy  the  many  blessings  and  favors 
fortune  has  placed  at  their  disposal,  and  live  in  their  sluggish  and  miserable  independence  from 
year  to  year. 

The  region  of  country  bordering  the  Kootenay  river  for  many  miles  on  the  south  is  totally 
unlike  that  bordering  the  Clark's  fork ;  but  few  prairies  are  found,  and  there  is  but  little  else 
than  one  immense  pine  thicket,  from  the  greater  portion  of  which  the  light  of  day  is  ever  ex 
cluded,  and  in  which  the  sound  of  the  axe  of  the  white  man  has  never  yet  been  heard.  Lead 
and  coal  are  both  said  to  be  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Kootenay,  although  I  saw  no  traces  of 
either  where  we  struck  the  stream. 

Having  now  accomplished  one  of  the  objects  for  which  we  started,  I  determined  to  strike  the 
Clark's  fork  to  the  south,  but  by  a  different  route  from  that  followed  to  the  Kootenay  river,  which 
should  lie  more  to  the  west,  turning  the  immense  bed  of  mountains  bordering  the  Flathead  lake 
on  the  west,  and  thus  solve  the  problem  of  the  character  of  the  large  belt  of  country  between 
the  Kootenaie  river  and  Clark's  fork,  from  which  flows  no  large  tributary  to  either  of  these  two 
streams;  so,  resuming  our  march  on  the  morning  of  the  27th  of  April,  we  continued  for  a  distance 
often  miles  on  the  same  trail  which  we  had  followed  going  to  the  Kootenay  river.  This  brought 
us  to  the  crossing  of  the  "Tobacco  creek;"  at  this  point  our  homeward  trail  bent  more  to  the 
south  of  east.  At  the  distance  of  a  mile  from  the  Tobacco  creek  we  struck  a  fork  of  the  main 
branch,  which  we  found  swimming  deep,  very  rapid,  and  about  twenty  yards  wide.  Having 
unpacked  everything,  one  of  our  Indians,  stripping  himself,  packed  everything  on  his  back,  swim 
ming  the  river  on  horseback.  By  felling  trees  we  made  a  bridge,  and  crossed  over  in  safety. 
Two  miles  distant,  our  trail  leading  through  an  open  pine  forest,  we  reached  a  prairie  bottom, 
where  we  encamped  for  the  night,  having  travelled  a  distance  of  only  thirteen  miles;  but  we  were 
compelled  to  camp  here,  as  it  was  the  only  grazing  ground  we  should  find  for  many  miles. 

The  weather  to-day  has  been  mild  and  pleasant,  although  during  last  night  we  had  a  heavy 
rain.  On  leaving  camp  this  morning  we  were  visited  by  a  large  number  of  Kootenay  Indians, 
who  brought  with  them  roots  and  skins  to  trade.  They  represented  that  they  were  in  a  misera 
ble  condition;  no  meat,  or  ammunition  to  procure  any.  We  gave  them  a  little  powder  and  ball, 
at  which  they  appeared  exceedingly  glad. 

April  28. — We  continued  this  morning  our  march  for  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  travelling  all  day 
through  an  immense  and  dense  pine  forest.  At  a  distance  of  a  mile  from  the  camp  of  last  night 


524  FROM    BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY    TO    FLATHEAD   LAKE    AND    KOOTENAY   RIVER. 

we  crossed  the  western  fork  of  Tobacco  creek,  which  we  were  compelled  to  swim.  Our  road 
to-day  was  indescribably  horrid — fallen  timber  piled  up  for  many  feet,  over  which  our  animals  had 
to  jump,  innumerable  mud-holes  and  quagmires,  rocks,  under-brush—  in  a  word,  everything  to 
make  our  road  miserable  in  the  extreme,  and  endangering  the  lives  of  both  men  and  animals. 
Grass  we  found  none,  compelling  us  to  travel  a  distance  of  forty  miles;  and  even  then  we  found  a 
very  scanty  fare  for  our  animals,  encamping  at  the  edge  of  a  pine  thicket.  We  crossed  to-day  a 
dividin^  ridge,  which  separates  the  waters  of  two  branches  of  the  Kootenay  river.  We  found  a 
stream  running  to  the  southeast;  which,  towards  our  night's  camp,  bent  more  to  the  we;>t,  and 
which,  our  guides  stated,  emptied  into  the  Kootenay  nver.  At  the  head  of  this  stream  we  found 
a  very  magnificent  fall  of  sixty  feet.  The  water  flows  through  two  high  vertical  walls  of  rock, 
with  an  impetuous  current  dashing  over  rocks  and  precipices  in  one  immense  sheet  of  foam,  the 
noise  of  which  we  heard  many  miles  distant.  The  scenery  here  is  truly  grand  :  the  black,  ver 
tical  walls  extending  for  a  long  distance  on  the  west,  and  several  hundred  feet  high,  their  tops 
covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  pine;  while  on  the  east,  rocks  and  stones  in  wild  confusion  lay 
piled  up  ibr  many  hundred  feet,  with  this  roaring  and  magnificent  cataract  occupying  the  inter 
vening  space,  dashing  wiih  a  headlong  current  until  it  joins  the  main  branch,  flowing  gently 
through  a  low  and  narrow  valley.  It  serves  to  give  life  to  this  otherwise  dreary  and  dismal 
region,  and  partially  repays  the  traveller  for  many  of  the  vexatious  annoyances  that  he  is  com 
pelled  to  suffer  while  journeying  through  this  most  uninviting  country.  We  found  the  soil  along 
the  whole  route  to-day  sterile  in  the  extreme;  no  grass  on  the  whole  route,  and  nothing  growing 
in  this  immense  pine  desert,  save  the  small  running  vine  called  by  the  Flathead  Indians  "scole- 
say,"  which  they  smoke,  mixed  with  tobacco.  The  mountains  on  each  side  of  us  were  high  and 
covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  pine,  while  on  the  summits  of  many  of  the  higher  peaks,  snow 
was  still  to  be  seen. 

April  29. — The  whole  of  this  day's  march  lay  over  a  succession  of  pine-clad  mountain  ridges, 
with  small  patches  of  prairie  intervening.  The  trail,  leading  through  the  timber,  afforded  a  bad 
road,  although  not  as  difficult  as  we  have  had  for  many  days  past. 

In  nearly  all  of  these  prairies  are  beautiful  lakes,  most  of  them  without  outlets.  The  mount 
ains  forming  belts  or  girdles,  necessitate  the  case  of  the  meltings  of  their  snows  being  received  in 
these  reservoirs  at  their  base.  Some  of  these  basins  are  two  or  three  miles  long,  and  a  mile  or 
more  wide.  At  one  of  these  lakes  we  found  a  Kootenay  Indian  fishing,  who,  on  arriving  at  his 
camp,  presented  us  with  a  bag  of  most  excellent  fish,  resembling  very  much  the  ordinary 
"sucker"  of  the  Eastern  States.  In  one  of  these  prairies  we  also  found  encamped  a  Kootenay 
Indian,  who,  on  our  arriving  at  his  camp  at  noon,  insisted  upon  our  halting  and  tarrying  with  him 
until  he  should  prepare  dinner  for  us.  We  were  much  pleased  with  his  noble  generosity.  We 
had  but  little  to  recompense  with,  but  I  gave  him  in  return  a  few  loads  of  ammunition  and  my 
leggins,  at  which  he  was  much  pleased. 

To-day  we  were  compelled  to  travel  a  distance  of  thirty-six  miles  to  reach  good  grass  and 
water  for  our  animals.  Camped  on  the  Hot  Spring  creek,  near  its  head. 

April  30. — To-day  we  left  the  woods  and  reached  once  more  the  rolling  prairie,  which  even  our 
animals  appreciated,  for  they  had  suffered  much  while  travelling  through  this  immense  pine  forest, 
with  poor  grass  and  necessarily  long  and  fatiguing  marches.  The  greater  portion  of  our  journey 
lay  to  the  left  of  the  Hot  Spring  creek,  which  we  crossed  twice  by  a  ford  over  a  beautifully- 
rolling  prairie  country.  A  few  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night  the  Hot  Spring  creek  enters  a 
deep  mountain  and  rocky  canon,  compelling  us  to  keep  along  the  edges  of  the  mountain's  summit. 
Gaining  the  top  of  one  of  these  prairie  ridges,  we  had  an  excellent  view  of  the  country  in  every 
direction.  To  the  south  of  us  lay  a  low  rolling  prairie,  limited  by  the  ridges  of  hills  bounding 
the  Camash  prairie  to  the  east  and  northeast;  to  our  right  and  left  lay  immense  beds  of  pine- 
clad  mountains.  Travelling  a  distance  of  thirty-two  miles,  we  reached  the  Camash  prairie, 
passing  on  the  road  the  camp  of  the  Kootenay  and  Pend  d'Oreille  Indians,  the  latter  of  whom 


FROM    BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY   TO   FLATIIEAD    LAKE    AND    KOOTENAY   RIVER.  525 

were  encamped  on  the  northern  edge  of  the  prairie.  We  found  still  camped  here  Mr.  CVden, 
who  had  awaited  our  return  from  the  Kootenay  river,  and,  very  fortunately  for  us,  he  had,  a  few 
days  previous  to  our  arrival,  received  a  supply  of  goods  and  provisions  from  Fort  Vancouver,  for 
we  arrived  at  his  camp  without  an  iota  of  provisions.  He  willingly  supplied  us  with  a  sufficiency 
to  last  us  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley.  We  had  here  the  luxury  of  a  cup  of  coffee  and  a  piece  of 
bread,  which  having  been  without  for  many  weeks,  none  could  appreciate  more  than  ourselves. 
Our  animals  being  much  jaded,  we  remained  here  a  day  to  rest  and  recruit,  where  we  found  the 
grass  green  and  abundant,  and  on  the  following  day,  (May  2,)  securing  the  services  of  an  Indian 
boatman  to  ferry  us  across  the  Clark's  fork,  we  camped  on  its  right  bank,  being  unable  to  cross 
on  account  of  the  high  wind.  Early  on  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  May  we  crossed  everything  in 
safety  to  the  opposite  bank.  Our  boat  was  a  bark  canoe,  such  as  is  used  by  the  Pend  d'Oreilles 
of  the  lake — light,  but  exceeding  fragile.  The  river  here  is  three  hundred  ya/ds  wide,  flowing  with 
a  very  gentle  current.  Thence  travelling  up  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  for  a  distance  of  twelve 
miles,  we  turned  more  to  the  north,  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Jocko  river,  crossing  the  Course  des 
Femmes  creek  at  its  mouth,  where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  We  were  favored  to-day  with 
mild  and  beautiful  weather,  which,  together  with  the  bright  green  grass,  the  blooming  and  bud 
ding  of  the  trees,  and  the  many  beautiful  and  varied  flowers  that  lined  our  pathway,  rendered  the 
day  truly  worthy  of  the  month  of  May. 

May  4. — Resuming  our  march  this  morning  at  an  early  hour,  we  reached  the  Hell  Gate  river 
at  1  p.  m.,  which  we  found  much  swollen,  deep,  and  very  rapid.  It  here  became  necessary  to 
build  rafts,  and  setting  the  party  at  work,  in  three  hours  we  made  two  rafts,  and  had  everything 
ready  for  crossing.  Gabriel,  with  one  of  the  men  and  an  Indian  woman  and  her  children,  who 
had  accompanied  us  from  the  Camash  prairie,  were  on  one  raft,  Mr.  Adams,  myself,  and  my 
remaining  man  being  on  the  other.  There  was  a  point  of  land  projecting  from  the  opposite  shore 
which  it  was  our  intention  to  strike,  if  possible;  yet  so  impetuous  was  the  current,  that  we  moved 
in  the  channel  with  a  headlong  velocity,  landing  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  down  on  the  same 
side  from  which  we  started.  Here  so  great  was  the  current,  that  it  was  impossible  to  stop  the  raft, 
but  we  were  thrown  with  frightful  force  against  rocks,  fallen  trees,  bushes,  islands,  in  fact  every 
thing  that  formed  an  obstruction  in  the  stream.  Haifa  mile  from  our  point  of  starting  the  current 
divided  into  two  channels,  carrying  us  to  the  opposite  shore  ;  here  we  were  brought  against  a  large 
fallen  tree,  the  limbs  of  which  we  seized  to  stop  the  raft ;  but  so  strong  was  the  current  that  we 
could  not  stem  it  for  a  moment,  but  moved  with  an  awful  swiftness  down  the  stream.  In  our 
attempt  to  hold  on  by  the  limbs  of  the  tree,  I  was  knocked  overboard,  compelling  me  to  swim 
with  my  clothes ;  I  succeeded  in  reaching  the  raft,  with  the  aid  of  one  of  my  men,  who  dragged 
me  out  of  the  water.  At  this  place  we  lost  our  poles,  and  were  thus  left  to  the  chances  of  fortune. 
We  then  stripped  to  facilitate  our  swimming,  and  on  nearing  a  rocky  island  each  man,  with  a  line 
that  had  been  made  fast  to  the  raft,  sprang  overboard,  as  the  last  resort  to  save  ourselves  and  the 
raft ;  here,  by  dint  of  perseverance  and  hard  labor,  we  succeeded  in  holding  it,  allowing  it  to  drift 
gradually  against  some  fallen  timber  that  lay  at  the  end  of  the  island.  To  the  left  of  this  rocky 
island  lay  another  formed  of  fallen  timber,  but  between  the  raft  and  the  latter  island  lay  a  broad 
gulf  of  water,  flowing  with  a  most  impetuous  current;  here  we  had  sufficient  time  to  build  a  log 
bridge,  and  throw  everything  from  the  raft  to  the  island.  We  succeeded  in  saving  the  greater 
portion  of  our  property ;  but  just  as  the  last  bale  was  removed  from  the  raft,  already  two  feet  under 
water,  the  water  dashed  over  it,  and  in  a  few  minutes  it  was  broken  to  pieces  and  carried  down 
this  much  dreaded  river.  Gabriel  had  been  more  successful,  but  had  been  compelled  to  swim 
with  a  cord  three  times,  and  with  the  aid  of  a  horse,  before  he  succeeded  in  landing  in  safety. 
And  here  I  am  compelled  to  bear  testimony  to  the  great  energy,  courage,  and  activity  displayed 
by  Mr.  Adams  on  an  occasion  when  our  whole  party  came  near  being  drowned  :  already  fatigued 
by  swimming,  w^ading,  and  walking  over  rocks  and  stones,  he  threw  everything  from  our  raft  to 
the  island.  Here  we  were,  then,  on  a  desolate  island,  naked,  with  abroad  stream  still  between 


52G  FROM    BITTER    ROOT    VALLEY   TO   FLATIIEAD   LAKE    AND    KOOTENAY   RIVER. 

us  and  our  shore  of  destination,  and  two  miles  from  the  point  whence  we  started.  We  fired  our 
pistols  to  let  the  remainder  of  the  party  know  that  we  were  still  alive,  who  having  already  become 
alarmed  for  our  safety,  had  ridden  many  miles  down  the  stream  in  quest  of  us,  but  could  not  find 
us.  Here  Mr.  Adams  swam  the  stream,  and,  naked  and  barefooted  as  he  was,  made  his  way 
through  bushes,  briars,  and  fallen  timber  to  our  camp,  a  mile  distant.  In  two  hours,  with  the  aid  of 
horses,  we  were  relieved  from  our  most  unenviable  situation,  but  succeeded  in  having  everything 
that  was  saved  thoroughly  wet.  We  were  rejoiced  at  finding  the  whole  party  thus  saved  from 
an  untimely  end,  and  with  one  accord  were  willing  to  remember  the  crossing  of  the  Hell  Gate 
river. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  fifth  of  May  we  resumed  our  march  for  the  Cantonment,  where 
we  arrived  during  the  evening,  thus  completing  a  short  but  eventful  trip. 

Taking  now  a  retrospective  view  of  the  country  travelled  over  towards  the  north,  from  the 
Flathead  lake,  we  see  that,  with  but  few  spots,  the  country  is  an  immense,  dense  pine  forest,  soil 
exceedingly  poor  ;  nothing  growing,  save  a  small  running  vine  called  "  scole-say."  This  charac 
terizes  the  country  to  the  summit  of  the -ridge  of  mountains  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Clark's 
fork  from  those  of  the  Kootenay  river.  Here  the  character  of  the  Kootenay  is  materially  changed; 
the  timber  that  is  found  being  much  larger,  consequently  is  more  scattered,  and  the  section 
immediately  bordering  the  river  being  a  rolling  prairie,  soil  fertile,  and  an  abundance  of  rich  and 
nutritious  grass  being  found. 

Returning  from  the  Kootenay  river  by  a  more  western  route,  our  road  lay  over  a  succession  of 
mountain  chains,  which  formed  belts,  or  girdles,  with  small  patches  of  prairie  intervening.  Being 
by  nature  thus  formed,  there  is  no  possibility  of  any  large  tributary  to  either  the  Kootenay  river 
or  the  Clark's  fork  flowing  from  them  ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  the  waters  from  the  numerous  springs, 
and  the  melting  of  the  snows,  are  all  received  in  small  lakes  at  their  bases.  The  soil  in  these 
prairies  is  very  excellent,  and  they  alone  afford  sufficient  grass  for  the  animals  that  travel  over 
this  secluded  and  little  frequented  region.  These  lakes  abound  in  fish,  and  large  flocks  of  water 
fowl  of  every  kind  are  here  found.  In  the  mountains  are  found  game,  and  many  roots,  upon 
which  the  Indians  subsist,  so  that  this  section  has  some  redeeming  characteristics,  nevertheless. 
The  mountains  are  all  pine-clad,  and  many  of  the  higher  peaks  are  covered  with  snow  throughout 
every  season.  Supposing  for  a  moment  that  there  existed  a  practicable  pass  through  the  mount 
ains  to  the  east  of  Clark's  fork,  the  natural  formation  here  found  would  preclude  the  possibility  of 
a  road  to  the  Pacific  ;  for,  from  the  Clark's  fork  north  of  the  Flathead  lake,  as  far  as  I  examined 
westward,  the  country  is  formed  of  one  immense  belt  of  mountains  extending  many  miles  in 
either  direction,  compelling  a  detour  to  be  made  along  the  Clark's  fork.  A  detour  from  the  route 
along  the  high  table-land  north  of  the  Missouri  is,  therefore,  inevitable;  but  the  section  already 
examined  to  the  east  of  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  is  by  far  more  feasible,  by  far 
more  practicable,  than  that  to  the  west  of  the  mountains  along  the  Clark's  fork.  This  is  only  on 
the  supposition  that  a  practicable  route  exists  across  the  range  of  mountains  to  the  east  of  Clark's 
fork;  but  this  chain  having  already  been  examined  by  one  of  the  civil  engineers  of  the  expedition, 
and  pronounced  impracticable,  loses  all  of  its  worth. 

Having  now  examined  the  mountains  from  the  43d  to  the  49th  parallel  of  latitude,  extending 
from  Fort  Hall  to  our  northern  boundary,  I  can  most  unhesitatingly  affirm,  that  the  Hell  Gate 
defile  is  the  only  one  in  this  section  that  leads  to  the  passes  in  the  main  chain  of  the  mountains 
that  are  practicable  either  for  a  railroad  or  wagon  route.  This  defile  leads  to  six  passes  in  the 
mountains;  four  of  which  have  already  been  examined  by  your  parties,  and  the  remaining  two  yet 
remain  to  be  examined — one  with  a  view  to  shorten  a  route  already  known  to  be  practicable,  and 
the  second  the  solving  of  a  new  problem  of  a  route  the  eastern  portions  of  which  must  necessarily 
lie  more  to  the  south  than  that  already  known  to  exist,  from  the  head  of  steam  navigation  on  the 
Mississippi  to  this  defile.  The  connecting  links  to  either  one  of  these  chains,  westward,  must, 


FROM    CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO    FORT    DALLES.  527 

therefore,  either  be  along  the  Clark's  fork,  from  its  first  great  northern  bend,   or  through  the  Cceur 
d'Alene  range  of  mountains. 

Accompanying  this  you  will  find  a  map  of  the  country  travelled  over,  and  sketches  character 
istic  of  the  routes. 

Truly,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  MULLAN, 

Lieutenant  U.  S.  Army. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Charge  of  N.  P.  Railroad  Exploration  and  Survey. 


REPORT  OF  LIEUT.  JOHN  MULLAN,  U.  S.  A.,  OF  HIS  EXPLORATION  FROM  CANTONMENT  STEVENS 
TO  FORT  DALLES,  THROUGH  THE  PASSES  AND  LATERAL  VALLEYS  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS, 
INCLUDING  A  PASS  OVER  THE  CO3UR  D'ALENE  MOUNTAINS. 

FORT  VANCOUVER,  November  12,  18-54. 

SIR  :  In  conformity  to  your  letter  of  instructions  of  October  4,  1853,  directing  me  to  continue  the 
exploration  of  the  passes  and  lateral  valleys  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  gaining  information  as  to  the 
practicability  of  the  same  for  railroad  and  wagon  routes,  and  making  a  topographical  map  of  the 
country  traversed,  and  your  later  communication,  dated  at  Washington  city,  June  2,  1854,  with 
drawing  my  party  from  the  mountains,  with  instructions  to  follow  the  best  practicable  route  to 
the  Pacific,  or  the  route  explored  by  Mr.  Adams,  under  my  directions,  I  have  the  honor  to  report 
that  I  left  Cantonment  Stevens  on  the  19th  of  September  last,  for  the  fulfilment  of  the  above 
instructions. 

Your  instructions  of  2d  June  were  received  on  the  23d  of  August ;  but  in  order  to  arrange  my 
accounts  of  property,  and  carry  out  the  views  embodied  in  your  letter,  I  was  compelled  to  await 
the  arrival  of  the  party  of  James  Doty,  Esq.,  then  under  orders  for  the  Pacific  from  the  falls  of  the 
Missouri.  By  this  means  we  were  enabled  to  consult  as  to  the  routes  to  be  followed  westward, 
the  plan  of  operation  of  each,  and  thus  fully  carry  out  your  views  for  the  interest  of  the  survey. 

On  the  receipt  of  your  communication,  I  despatched  an  express  across  the  mountains  to  carry 
to  Mr.  Doty  his  letters  and  instructions. 

Mr.  Adams,  my  assistant,  having  been  assigned  to  duty  as  special  Indian  agent  in  the  Bitter 
Root  district,  was  absent  by  my  order  at  the  receipt  of  your  letters,  but  arrived  at  the  post  on  the 
10th  of  September.  To  him  I  turned  over  certain  animals  and  property  that  he  needed  for  his 
purposes  in  the  mountains.  Mr.  Burr,  who  had  been  associated  with  me  for  more  than  a  year  in 
meteorology,  remained  with  Mr.  Adams. 

Our  preparations  having  been  completed  by  the  morning  of  the  19th  of  September,  we  took  our 
departure  from  the  Cantonment  where  had  been  our  winter  home  for  twelve  months  ;  and  I  must 
say  that,  though  the  reflection  that  we  were  soon  to  mingle  with  our  friends  on  the  Pacific  was 
pleasant  and  refreshing,  still  we  parted  with  our  late  home  with  feelings  of  true  and  heartfelt 
regret.  Our  comforts  had  been  few  and  rude,  it  is  true,  but  sufficiently  great  to  endear  us  to  a 
place  and  a  people  that  we  shall  not  soon  forget. 

As  you  have  already  been  informed  in  a  former  communication,  Mr.  Adams  was  instructed  by 
me  to  examine  and  report  upon  a  route  across  the  Bitter  Root  mountains  represented  by  an 
Iroquois  Indian  to  be  an  excellent  and  practicable  road  for  wagon  trains,  and  which  he  was 
willing  to  point  out.  He  was  further  instructed,  that  should  the  route,  upon  examination,  prove 
to  be  such  as  it  had  been  represented,  he  should  with  a  party  of  nine  men  remove  all  obstruct 
ions,  so  far  as  his  force  would  allow  him,  and  cross  the  mountains  to  the  Cosur  d'Alene  mission, 
where  he  should  await  further  instructions.  Early  in  March  last  he  started  to  make  the  recon 
naissance,  taking  with  him  as  guide  the  Iroquois  Indian  referred  to.  I  should  here  state  that,  at 
the  same  time,  I  left  the  Bitter  Root  valley  to  examine  a  pass  across  the  mountains  to  Fort 


528  FROM   CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO   FORT   DALLES. 

Benton,  upon  which  examination  1  reported  to  you  in  April  last.  On  my  return  to  the  valley  1 
learned  from  Mr.  Adams  that  the  route,  as  then  examined,  was  covered  with  snow  to  such  a  depth, 
that  he  found  it  impracticable  to  travel  with  horses,  and  was  compelled  to  return  ;  but  he  reported 
that,  so  far  as  he  examined  the  route,  no  obstructions  existed  to  the  passage  of  wagon  trains, 
and  that  it  offered  no  difficulty  whatever  for  a  railroad  route.  On  my  return  from  Fort  Benton  I 
had  organized  my  party  for  an  exploration  to  the  north  as  far  as  the  Kootenay  river,  of  which,  when 
completed,  I  intended  to  make,  myself,  the  exploration  intrusted  to  Mr.  Adams.  I  returned  from 
my  trip  to  the  Kootenay  river  on  the  5th  of  May,  and  on  the  21st  of  same  month  started  to  make 
the  examination  across  the  Bitter  Root  range  by  the  pass  described  by  the  Iroquois.  Owing, 
however,  to  the  high  water  in  the  month  of  May,  along  the  route  I  proposed  to  examine,  I  was 
not  enabled  to  travel  directly  across  the  mountains,  but  taking  advantage  of  a  trip  of  Father 
Hocken,  of  the  Jesuit  mission,  in  the  Pend  d'Oreille  country,  I  thought  it  better  to  descend  by  the 
Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  and  to  examine  the  route  from  the  west,  thus  allowing  sufficient 
time  for  the  water  to  subside,  and  in  the  end  accomplish  the  same  desired  object.  I  travelled 
with  horses  as  far  as  the  eastern  end  of  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  when,  owing  to  the  high  water 
rendering  travelling,  especially  the  crossings  of  the  streams,  difficult,  dangerous,  and  in  some 
places  impracticable,  I  was  compelled  to  leave  my  animals  and  take  a  canoe  across  the  Pend 
d'Oreille  lake,  and  down  the  Clark's  fork  as  far  as  the  Pend  d'Oreille  mission.  Arriving  at  that 
point,  I  sent  to  Mr.  Owen,  at  the  Spokane  prairie,  for  some  horses  belonging  to  the  government 
then  in  his  charge,  intending  to  complete  the  remainder  of  my  journey  on  horseback.  I  deem  it 
unnecessary  to  refer  here  to  the  character  of  the  lake  on  the  Clark's  fork,  since  a  report  on  the 
same  has  been  made  to  you  already  by  Dr.  Suckley.  I  would  therefore  simply  state,  that  we 
found  nearly  all  the  tributaries  to  the  Clark's  fork  from  the  north  to  be  much  swollen,  and  in  fact 
perfect  mountain  torrents,  rendering  their  crossings  exceedingly  dangerous  and  difficult.  The 
Clark's  fork  was  also  much  swollen,  and  flowing  in  places  with  an  impetuous  current.  From  the 
Pend  d'Oreille  mission  I  went  lo  Fort  Colville  to  procure  supplies  for  my  party,  whence  1  trav 
elled  to  the  Spokane  river,  thence  up  this  river  to  its  junction  with  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake,  thence 
to  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mission. 

Arriving  at  the  mission,  I  interrogated  the  missionaries  as  to  their  knowledge  of  the  character 
of  that  region,  and  the  feasibility  of  the  same  for  the  passage  of  trains  of  all  kinds.  They  repre 
sented  that  the  usually  travelled  route  to  the  Bitter  Root  district  was  the  one  that  you  had  followed 
in  October,  1853 ;  they  mentioned,  however,  that  there  was  another  route  only  a  few  miles  distant, 
which,  owing  to  much  fallen  timber,  was  not  travelled,  but  which  they  thought  to  be  the  better 
of  the  two.  They  spoke  of  a  third  route  across  the  mountains,  which  from  hearsay  they  thought 
might  prove  the  most  practicable  and  the  best  of  the  three.  The  Indians,  however,  \vho  knew 
anything  of  this  route  were  two  days  distant  on  the  Wallah- Wallah  road.  I  therefore  deemed  it 
advisable  to  visit  them  and  interrogate  them  as  to  the  latter  route.  Having  found  them  encamped 
in  the  Camash  prairie  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene,  I  told  them  my  object  in  the  country,  and  that  I  de 
sired  to  gain  information  in  regard  to  this  particular  route.  Some  said  that  the  route  was  very 
difficult,  leading  over  high  and  steep  mountains  ;  while  others  declared  it  to  be  the  reverse,  and 
offering  no  obstruction  whatever  to  the  full  days'  march  of  the  traveller.  Others  affirmed  that  it 
was  and  had  been  their  hunting-ground  for  years,  which  they  did  riot  want  disturbed,  and,  with 
one  accord,  seemed  unwilling  to  point  out  the  route  or  show  any  friendly  signs  to  have  their 
country  explored,  or  willing  disposition  to  have  their  country  travelled  over  by  the  whites.  They, 
however,  threw  no  direct  impediment  in  my  way ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  one  of  them  accompanied 
me  across  the  Bitter  Root  mountains.  Finding  I  could  not  cross  by  this  last-mentioned  route,  I 
concluded  to  follow  the  second.  I  returned  to  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mission,  which  I  left  on  the  19th 
of  June,  and  followed  the  most  northern  of  the  two  streams  forming  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake ;  and 
I  have  the  honor  to  report  that,  except  for  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  I  found  the  route  to  be 
over  the  same  ground  that  you  travelled  over  in  October,  1853.  Instead  of  following  the  right- 


FROM    CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO    FORT    DALLES.  529 

hand  trail  in  going  eastward  which  you  followed,  I  look  the  one  to  the  left,  and  thus  avoided  the 
steep  and  high  mountain  crossed  by  your  party;  and  though  I  found  the  route  much  obstructed 
by  fallen  timber,  yet  the  character  of  the  country  offered  no  further  obstruction  to  the  passage  of 
wagon  trains,  or  for  a  railroad  route,  save  the  divide  itself,  which  has  an  estimated  height  of  fifteen 
hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  valley,  and  which  from  base  to  base  is  from  a  mile  to  a  mile 
and  a  half  wide.  The  mountain  is  formed  of  schist  rock  and  friable  sandstone.  At  this  point  a 
tunnel,  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half,  would  be  inevitable.  By  the  peculiar  formation  of  the 
valleys  on  either  side,  the  summit  of  the  mountain  could  not  be  gained  by  a  single  grade.  By 
your  estimate,  this  gap  or  pass  is  two  thousand  feet  lower  than  the  one  you  crossed,  and  is,  in  my 
judgment,  the  lowest  gap  in  the  range.  It  could  be  made  a  good  wagon  road  by  cutting  and 
making  a  road  along  the  side-hills,  and  having  the  road  make  one  or  more  bends  in  gaining  the 
summit.  The  present  trail  crosses  and  recrosses  the  river  several  times,  but  these,  in  a  good 
measure,  could  and  would  be  avoided  by  cutting  a  road  on  either  bank,  which  is  perfectly  feasi 
ble.  The  stream  flowing  from  the  mountain  to  the  St.  Mary's  river  is  called  the  St.  Regis  Bor 
gia.  The  road  at  present  is  much  obstructed  by  fallen  timber,  but  this  could  be  removed  without 
much  difficulty.  I  would  have  had  my  party  at  work  on  the  road  this  summer,  had  not  instruc 
tions  ordering  them  to  the  Dalles  been  received  by  me  in  June  last.  I  would  mention,  at  this 
point,  that  Mr.  Adams  passed  over  this  road  from  the  Bitter  Root  valley  to  the  Dalles  of  the  Co 
lumbia  in  eleven  and  a  half  days. 

This  route,  therefore,!  pronounce  to  be  the  most  feasible  and  practicable,  and  possesses  advan 
tages  superior  to  any  that  I  have  examined  in  the  whole  range  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains.  It 
is  true  that  the  route  formed  by  the  natural  gaps  of  the  mountain  of  the  St.  Mary's  river  and  the 
Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia  is  one  involving  no  tunnel,  but  it  does  involve  a  length  greater  by  two 
hundred  miles  than  the  Coeur  d'Alene  route.  The  surface-work  forming  the  divide  of  the  Bitter 
Root  mountains  I  found  to  be  friable,  and  apparently  easily  acted  upon  by  the  weather,  and 
which  I  think  would  be  found  to  be  easily  worked  by  the  saw.  I  do  not  deem  it  necessary  to  go 
into  details  as  to  the  character  of  the  country  from  the  St.  Mary's  river  to  the  Bitter  Root  divide, 
since  the  party  under  your  command  examined  it  in  October,  1853.  Nor  do  I  make  mention  of 
the  country  from  the  Bitter  Root  divide  to  Wallah-Wallah,  since  that  has  been  passed  over  and 
examined  by  James  Doty,  Esq.,  in  September  and  October  last. 

Having,  therefore,  examined  this  route  previous  to  receiving  your  letter,  I  did  not  deem  it  inex 
pedient  to  follow  a  different  route  on  my  way  to  Fort  W^allah- Wallah.  The  only  route  left  to  be 
examined  in  the  whole  range  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  was  the  pass  by  what  is  called  the 
Lo-Lo's  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  river.  The  route  had  been  represented  to  me  by  some  to  be  very 
rugged  and  difficult,  and  by  others  as  feasible  and  practicable.  I  therefore  decided  that,  as  Mr. 
Doty  was  to  take  the  route  by  the  Coeur  d'Alene  country,  I  would  examine  the  Lo-Lo's  Pass,  and 
meet  him  at  Fort  Wallah-Wallah.  Accordingly  we  left  the  Bitter  Root  valley  together  on  the 
19th  of  September,  encamping  at  the  crossing  of  the  river,  after  a  march  of  twenty  miles;  but 
owing  to  the  straying  away  of  one  of  my  animals,  we  remained  in  camp  on  the  next  day,  but 
resumed  our  march  on  the  21st,  which  commenced  clear,  bright,  and  pleasant.  We  halted  a  few 
minutes  to  make  a  sketch  of  the  entrance  to  the  Lo-Lo's  Pass,  when  we  crossed  the  river  to  the 
left  bank.  The  stream,  at  the  crossing,  is  well  timbered  with  the  cotton- wood  and  poplar,  and  is 
fifteen  yards  wide,  with  good  banks  on  either  side,  and  channel-water  two  feet  deep.  The 
mountains  on  each  side  of  its  valley,  which  here  is  five  hundred  yards  wide,  are  quite  high,  and 
well  timbered  with  the  pine  and  cedar.  The  trails  for  six  miles  being  on  the  left  bank,  through 
a  low  prairie  bottom,  at  the  end  of  this  distance  we  crossed  to  the  opposite  bank,  still  finding  an 
excellent  road  passing  through  beautiful  pine  openings.  A  short  distance  farther  we  crossed  the 
stream  a  third  time,  when  our  trail,  being  up  the  left  bank,  passed  over  a  series  of  side-hills,  some 
of  which  proved  quite  steep  and  fatiguing  to  our  animals.  But  little  fallen  timber  was,  however, 
found  on  these  mountains.  The  growth  being  quite  large,  was  consequently  much  scattered,  thus 


530  FROM   CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO    FORT   DALLES. 

affording  a  good  road.  Up  to  3  p.  m.  we  crossed  two  small  streamlets  coming  in  from  the  north, 
upon  the  second  of  which  we  halted  to  rest  the  animal?,  having  travelled  a  distance  of  2l>£  miles. 
A  better  road  could  be  made  by  following  the  valley  of  Lo-Lo's  fork.  Of  course,  many  crossings 
of  the  stream  would  be  inevitable;  but  as  the  water  here  is  very  shallow,  the  crossings  would  be 
of  minor  importance,  considering  the  advantages  to  be  gained  by  a  level  road.  Resuming  our 
march  at  4  p.  m.,  we  continued  for  three  miles  along  the  side-hills,  through  fallen  timber,  when 
we  crossed  and  immediately  recrossed  the  Lo  Lo's  fork.  At  this  point  we  reached  a  very  beau 
tiful  prairie,  about  one-third  of  a  mile  in  length.  This  place  afforded  us  nn  excellent  camp; 
though,  following  the  advice  of  our  guide,  we  travelled  a  distance  of  four  miles  farther,  when  we 
encamped.  Finding  no  grass,  our  animals  started  on  the  back  trail  an  hour  after  reaching  camp; 
but  it  being  now  sunset,  it  was  too  late  to  retrace  our  steps. 

September  22. — Remained  in  camp  during  this  day — our  animals  having  strayed  back  to  our 
camp  of  last  night.  Sent  two  men  back  in  search  of  them,  and  in  the  meanwhile  made  a  corral. 
The  men  arrived  at  sunset  with  all  but  four  animals.  We  pul  them  in  the  corral,  where  we  kept 
them  all  night  without  grass,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  23d  resumed  our  march  at  an  early  hour, 
our  road  for  seven  miles  leading  up  and  along  the  sides  of  very  high  and  steep  mountains,  ob 
structed  by  much  fallen  timber,  which  proved  very  fatiguing  to  our  animals.  Gaining  a  high 
point  of  view,  we  had  a  prospect  in  every  direction,  where  nothing  was  seen  save  an  immense 
bed  of  high,  rugged,  pine-clad  mountains.  At  the  end  of  seven  miles  we  again  struck  the  Lo-Lo's 
creek  at  its  forks.  Here  we  found  a  small  prairie,  with  very  excellent  grass,  affording  a  fine 
camp  to  a  large  party.  The  many  signs  of  elk  tracks  seen  through  this  prairie,  shows  that  this  is 
a  great  resort  for  this  animal — the  great  quantities  of  willow  affording  them  an  abundance  of  food. 
The  mountains  around  this  prairie  are  quite  low  and  pine-clad.  Our  trail  lay  along  the  southern 
fork  of  the  creek,  which  we  crossed  several  times.  The  bed  is  covered  with  large  rocks  and 
boulders  of  sandstone.  Each  fork  is  ten  yards  wide,  with  bluff  banks  on  either  side.  At  a  dis 
tance  of  two  miles  from  the  junction  of  the  forks,  we  reached  a  range  of  hot  springs,  flowing  from 
a  bed  of  light,  coarse-grained,  friable  sandstone.  These  springs  are  highly  impregnated  with 
sulphur,  and  are  of  the  same  degree  of  heat  as  those  I  found  in  the  "Big  Hole,"  the  temperature 
of  which  was  132°  Fahrenheit.  Here  occurs  a  small  prairie,  wilh  very  good  grass,  affording  an 
excellent  camp.  The  rock  in  the  vicinity  of  these  springs  being  easily  disintegrated  by  the 
weather,  presents  quite  a  wild  and  picturesque  appearance,  being  worn  and  rounded  in  every 
possible  conceivable  shape.  They  formed  truly  a  relief  to  the  eye  from  the  monotonous  char 
acter  of  the  country  through  which  we  had  been  travelling.  The  accompanying  sketch  shows 
the  vicinity  of  these  springs,  though  no  good  point  of  view  could  be  selected  to  sketch  the  rocks 
themselves  as  they  appeared  in  nature.  We  stopped  at  thpse  springs,  where  the  men  enjoyed  a 
bath,  and  the  animals  the  excellent  grass  here  found.  Leaving  these  springs,  we  commenced 
the  ascent  of  the  dividing  ridge  of  mountains  which  separate  the  waters  of  the  Bitter  Root  river 
from  those  of  the  Salmon  fork  of  the  Clearwater.  This  divide  we  found  lower  than  the  mount 
ains  along  the  Lo-Lo's  creek,  though  covered  wilh  the  pine,  and  in  some  places  much  obstructed 
by  fallen  timber.  At  a  distance  of  seven  miles  from  the  hot  springs  we  reached  a  prairie  of  two 
miles  in  length,  where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  Through  this  prairie  flows  a  small  creek  to 
the  headwaters  of  the  Clearwater,  called  by  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  "Glade  creek."  Here  we 
found  good  grass;  but  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  we  could  restrain  our  animals  from 
taking  the  back  track,  and  only  succeeded  by  guarding  them  during  the  whole  night.  Having 
been  deprived  of  grass  last  night,  we  could  not  possibly  tie  them  up  or  deprive  them  of  grass. 
The  night  was  clear  and  pleasant,  though  with  a  very  heavy  frost. 

September  24. — We  resumed  our  march  this  morning  at  an  early  hour,  crossing  Glade  creek 
three  times,  when  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  a  high  and  steep  mountain  about  nine  miles 
across,  rendered  difficult  by  stones,  rocks,  and  fallen  timber.  At  the  end  of  this  distance  we 
struck  the  main  northern  branch  df  the  Kooskooskia  river,  which  we  found  to  be  a  stream  about 


FROM    CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO   FORT    DALLES.  531 

ninety  yards  wide,  flowing,  with  an  exceedingly  rapid  current,  over  a  rocky,  stony  bed.  Tt  is 
bounded  on  each  side  by  high,  steep,  rugged  pine-clad  mountains.  Crossing  the  Koo>kooskia, 
we  began  the  ascent  of  another  very  steep  mountain,  the  road,  in  addition,  being  obstructed  by 
fallen  timber.  For  eight  miles  we  continued  up  and  along  steep  mountains,  thirkly  timbered 
with  the  spruce  and  hacmatack.  At  the  end  of  this  distance  our  course  tended  for  six  miles 
more  to  the  north,  leaving  the  river  at  a  distance  of  four  miles  to  our  left — our  road  still  winding 
along  and  up  steep,  high,  and  rugged  mountains.  At  a  distance  of  four  miles  we  reached  the 
top  of  the  mountains,  where  we  could  see  in  every  direction,  and  nothing  met  our  view  but  one 
immense  bed  of  pine-clad  mountains.  There  was  a  ridge  to  our  south  and  ea^t  that  had  a  gene 
ral  direction  of  northeast  and  southwest,  presenting  a  series  of  high  jogged  peaks,  all  destitute  of 
timber.  Having  travelled  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  we  encamped  on  the  top  of  a  high 
mountain,  where  we  found  a  spring  of  water  on  the  trail.  We  found  no  grass  for  our  animals, 
and  were  compelled  to  tie  the  most  of  them  without  grass  or  water.  We  found  growing  along 
the  sides  and  tops  of  the  mountains  to-day  a  great  abundance  of  the  bear-grass,  which  grows 
in  large,  long  bunches,  and  retains  its  beautiful  green  color  throughout  the  whole  year.  It  is 
never  eaten  by  the  animals,  however  hungry  they  may  be.  We  met  to-day  for  the  first  time  the 
mountain  ash,  growing  in  great  abundance  on  these  mountains  in  a  bush  form,  and  bearing  a 
bright  red  berry.  The  tree  is  fifteen  feet  high.  Towards  evening  our  guide  became  embar 
rassed  as  to  the  route,  as  we  came  to  a  point  of  the  mountains  where  the  road  forked.  We, 
however,  took  the  right-hand  trail,  which  proved  to  be  the  present  one  travelled.  When  Cap 
tains  Lewis  and  Clark  crossed  these  mountains,  they  took  the  left-hand  trail,  which  proved,  by 
their  description,  as  difficult,  if  not  more  so  than  the  one  we  followed.  At  sunset,  after  a  long 
and  fatiguing  march,  we  encamped  on  the  summit  of  a  high  mountain,  where  we  found  a 
spring  of  clear  pure  water.  The  night  was  cold  and  windy,  and  on  the  following  morning  we 
experienced  great  difficulty  in  finding  our  animals  ;  most  of  them  broke  loose  during  the  night, 
and  strayed  off  many  miles  into  the  thick  timber,  while  some  took  the  back  track  to  our  camp  of 
lust  night.  We  sent  two  men  on  the  trail,  who  found  ten,  and,  having  searched  through  the 
dense  forest,  we  found  them  all  by  11  o'clock.  They  presented  a  meagre  and  gaunt  appearance, 
and  showed  the  effects  of  the  want  of  grass.  At  12  in.  we  resumed  our  march.  When  at  a  dis 
tance  of  two  miles  we  saw  a  deep  hollow,  with  good  grass.  Here  I  sent  one  of  the  men  to  see 
if  there  was  water.  On  his  finding  water,  I  concluded  to  encamp,  although  not  midday,  rather 
than  travel  with  the  prospect  of  finding  no  grass  at  our  night  camp.  At  this  place  we  found  an 
excellent  spring  of  pure  water,  and  an  abundance  of  rich,  green  buffalo-grass.  Towards  sunset 
it  began  to  rain  heavily,  with  wind  from  east  southeast,  and  continued  with  great  force  through 
out  the  whole  night.  We  had  to-day  a  commanding  view  of  the  mountains,  and  took  a  sketch 
of  the  prominent  ridge  running  northeast  and  southwest,  it  forming  the  great  landmark  of  this 
region. 

September  26. — Commences  mild  and  pleasant,  having  rained  heavily  throughout  the  night. 
The  atmosphere  this  morning  was  pure  and  pleasant.  We  resumed  our  journey  at  an  early  hour, 
our  animals  having  fared  well  on  the  rich  grass  of  last  night.  Our  trail  during  the  earlier  part  of 
the  day  lay  up  the  sides  and  over  steep  mountains;  but  towards  noon  the  road  became  per 
ceptibly  better,  the  mountains  lower,  and  the  trail  easier  travelled.  We  still  had  a  commanding 
view  of  the  mountains  during  the  whole  day,  some  of  the  higher  peaks  of  which  were  covered 
with  snow,  especially  the  peaks  of  the  prominent  range  referred  to  yesterday.  To-driy  the 
mountains  towards  the  north  appeared  very  high  arid  rugged,  while  those  to  our  front  and  south 
still  retained  their  rugged  features.  At  a  distance  of  fourteen  miles  from  our  camp  we  reached 
a  spring  of  clear  water  on  a  bare  mountain,  having  a  beautiful  southern  exposure.  Here  we 
observed  fresh  tracks  of  horses — probably  the  Indians  hunting.  Six  miles  farther  we  saw  a 
small  lake.  It  was  midway  of  a  high,  bare,  steep  mountain,  on  the  southern  side.  A  short  dis 
tance  farther  we  struck  a  small  creek,  running  towards  the  north;  and  as  we  had  travelled  some 


532  FROM    CANTONMENT   STEVENS    TO    FORT   DALLES. 

distance  without  water,  our  animals  scented  it  from  afur,  and  were  nearly  frantic  when  approach- 
in^  it.  Here  we  reached  a  series  of  springs  issuing  from  the  sides  of  the  mountains.  Five  miles 
farther  we  reached  a  large  and  beautiful  prairie  bottom,  through  which  ran  a  pure  mountain 
streamlet.  Here  the  grass  was  most  excellent  and  abundant,  and  formed  a  pleasant  relief  from 
our  anxiety,  as  we  fully  expected  to  be  compelled  to  encamp  again  without  grass.  The  mount 
ains  to-day  still  continued  covered  with  the  white  pine,  mountain  ash,  alder,  and  balsam  fir; 
though,  as  a  general  thing,  the  timber  was  more  sparse  to-day  than  any  day  since  leaving  the 
Bitter  Root  valley,  the  mountains  in  some  places  being  formed  solely  of  rock,  principally  free 
stone.  We  passed  two  creeks  to-day,  on  the  second  of  which  we  encamped. 

September  27. — Commences  clear,  mild  and  pleasant.  Having  encamped  high  on  the  side  of  a 
mountain,  we  had  a  grand  arid  pleasing  view.  The  hills  at  our  feet  appeared  swimming  in  lakes 
of  mist,  while  the  distant  mountain-tops  were  lit  up  by  the  bright  rays  of  a  genial  sun,  and  all 
nature  seemed  to  wear  a  pleasing  and  smiling  garb.  We  started  at  seven  o'clock,  our  road 
during  the  whole  day  being  along  the  sides  and  up  the  steep  rugged  mountains,  the  trail  being 
obstructed  by  fallen  timber,  though  not  as  difficult  as  yesterday  and  the  preceding  days.  At 
fifteen  miles  from  our  camp  we  reached  a  large  and  bare  mountain,  where  we  found  the  grass 
most  excellent,  with  several  springs  of  clear  pure  water  gushing  from  its  side,  affording  an  excel 
lent  camping  ground.  The  mountains  around  still  continued  to  be  covered  with  the  balsam  fir, 
save  those  only  which  were  formed  solely  of  freestone.  We  observed  to-day  large  numbers  of 
the  mountain  grouse,  the  blue  jay,  and  a  species  of  the  large  rock  squirrel,  a  specimen  of  which 
we  preserved.  After  a  march  of  twenty-five  miles  we  encamped  on  the  northern  exposure  of  a 
mountain,  where  we  found  good  grass  and  water. 

September  28. — Resuming  our  march  this  morning,  we  continued  along  the  sides  of  the  mount 
ains,  rendered  difficult  by  the  great  quantity  of  fallen  timber  along  the  trail,  which  at  times  led 
over  the  steep  and  rugged  mountains,  which  proved  truly  fatiguing  and  trying  to  our  animals. 
We  still  continued  to  be  surrounded  by  a  labyrinth  of  mountains,  all  clad  with  pine,  balsam  fir, 
mountain  ash,  honeysuckle,  cedar  and  willow,  with  much  underbrush,  and  some  of  the  higher 
peaks  covered  with  perpetual  snow;  numerous  springs  of  pure  cold  water  were  seen  flowing 
from  mountain  sides.  At  fifteen  miles  from  our  camp  of  27th  we  reached  a  small  creek  running 
towards  the  north ;  three  miles  farther  we  reached  a  second  creek,  also  flowing  towards  the  north 
and  running  through  a  small  but  beautiful  prairie,  with  good  grass,  affording  an  excellent  camp 
ing  ground.  We  had  made  only  eighteen  miles  yet ;  the  road  had  proved  so  fatiguing  to  our 
animals,  that  I  concluded  to  encamp.  The  soil  in  this  prairie  we  found  most  excellent,  being  of  a 
rich  dark-colored  loam  ;  in  fact,  with  but  few  exceptions  the  soil  of  the  route  to-day  has  been  most 
excellent,  especially  in  the  narrow  gorges  and  the  small  intervening  valleys  of  the  mountains, 
the  soil  in  some  places  being  formed  solely  of  the  decayed  leaves  and  timber ;  but  in  these  places 
the  ground  is  forever  shaded  by  the  exceedingly  large  trees  found  along  the  whole  route.  Immense 
beds  of  freestone  were  to  be  seen  along  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  the  presence  of  which  was 
indicated  by  the  outcroppings  in  many  places.  We  observed  to-day  two  species  of  grouse  ;  one 
with  a  red  segment,  and  the  second  with  a  yellow  segment  of  a  circle  above  the  eyes.  The  latter 
weighs  from  two  to  four  pounds.  The  flesh  of  ihese  last  is  very  excellent,  and  when  cooked  is  very 
white  and  not  unlike  the  ordinary  grouse  of  the  mountains.  They  are  quite  tame,  and  remain 
sitting  on  the  ground  except  when  frightened,  when  they  betake  themselves  to  the  trees  ;  they  are 
of  a  lead-gray  color  on  the  breast,  the  feathers  near  the  tail  being  speckled  white  and  black ;  they 
make  a  hooting  noise,  not  unlike  that  of  the  owl.  We  observed  also  many  blue  jays,  small  rock 
squirrels,  rabbits,  and  mountain  weasel,  or  mink. 

September  29. — Commences  bright  and  pleasant.  We  resumed  our  march  at  an  early  hour,  our 
trail  still  leading  over  tjie  high  and  rugged  mountains,  much  obstructed  by  fallen  timber.  Gaining 
a  high  point  of  view,  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  distant  prairies,  which  was  a  sight  truly  refresh 
ing  after  our  rugged  toiling  through  the  mountains.  The  mountains  to  the  north  and  south  still 


FROM    CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO    FORT   DALLES.  533 

continue  to  be  very  high,  though,  on  account  of  the  hazy,  smoky  atmosphere,  we  could  not  see 
them  very  distinctly.  We  noticed  on  the  trail  to-day  ibr  the  first  time  great  quantities  of  cedar, 
some  of  the  trees  growing  to  enormous  sizes,  though  none  so  large  as  those  in  the  Coeur  d'Alene 
country,  the  largest  that  I  measured  being  thirty-six  feet  in  circumference.  We  noticed  also  the 
box,  the  white  maple,  the  ground  willow,  and  the  cherry,  the  latter  bearing  a  red  bitter  fruit,  that 
tastes  not  unlike  the  green  English  cherry.  No  game  save  a  single  grouse  was  seen  during  the 
day.  At  seven  miles  from  our  camp  we  reached  a  small  prairie  with  two  small  lakes,  affording 
excellent  grass.  Here  we  observed  the  long-leafed  pine,  growing  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  high. 
A  few  miles  farther  we  reached  a  second  prairie,  through  which  flowed  a  small  stream,  towards 
the  north.  Our  road  for  the  remainder  of  the  day  led  through  an  immense  pine  and  cedar  forest, 
being  much  obstructed  by  underbrush.  Seventeen  miles  from  our  camp  we  reached  a  rapid 
stream  of  fifteen  yards  wide,  flowing  towards  the  west.  We  crossed  a  fork  of  this  creek  from  the 
northeast.  At  its  mouth  it  flows  through  high  pine-clad  mountains  over  a  rocky  bed.  After 
travelling  a  distance  of  thirty  miles  we  reached  a  large  and  beautiful  prairie,  with  grass  two  feet 
high,  through  which  flowed  a  stream  two  feet  deep,  towards  the  southwest,  with  a  rapid  current. 
We  had  thus  descended  the  last  of  the  rocky  range,  and  had  now  before  us  an  open  and  some 
what  inviting  country.  We  had  thus  been  in  the  mountains  eleven  days,  our  road  being  rugged 
and  rough  during  the  whole  time.  The  prairie  upon  which  we  to-night  encamped  extended  for 
five  miles  in  length  and  one  in  width,  and  was  surrounded  by  thick  pine  forests.  We  had  during  the 
morning  a  view  for  the  first  time  of  the  Blue  mountains,  about  one  hundred  miles  distant. 

September  30. — We  resumed  our  march  at  an  early  hour,  following  down  the  creek  upon  which 
we  had  encamped  for  a  distance  of  two  miles  through  pine  openings,  affording  us  an  excellent 
and  level  road.  Here  the  trail  tended  more  to  the  north,  leading  over  a  series  of  hills  covered 
with  fallen  timber.  Here  we  reached  a  small  creek  from  the  east  flowing  through  a  low  bottom 
fringed  with  willow,  the  sides  of  the  hills  or  mountains  being  clad  with  pine.  We  followed  this 
creek  for  six  miles  through  beautiful  pine  openings  with  small  patches  of  prairie,  affording  us  an 
excellent  road.  In  these  prairies  the  soil  is  very  fertile,  being  a  rich  dark  loam.  At  the  end  of 
six  miles  we  again  entered  the  thick  timber,  crossing  a  small  divide  separating  two  creeks  that 
flow  into  the  Clearwater ;  the  timber  upon  this  divide  we  found  to  be  principally  cedar  and  fir. 
We  soon  fell  upon  the  head  of  a  second  creek  flowing  towards  the  west,  and  called  by  the  Nez 
Perces  Indians  Esh-ske-esh-skil,  and  two  miles  farther  reached  the  main  Camash  prairie.  It  is 
two  miles  wide  and  six  or  eight  in  length,  perfectly  level,  and  enclosed  on  all  sides  by  forests  of 
pine  growing  from  sixty  to  eighty  feet  in  height.  Through  the  prairie  is  a  small  creek  or  slough, 
around  which  they  encamp  during  the  camash  season.  It  is  a  great  resort  for  all  the  Indians  in 
this  vicinity,  principally  the  Nez  Perces,  Cceur  d'Alenes,  a.nd  sometimes  Spokanes,  it  being  a 
favorite  racing  ground  with  all  the  Indians.  Here  we  struck  a  large  trail  which  tended  to  the 
Nez  Perces'  camp ;  this  Camash  prairie  being  sixteen  miles  from  our  camp  of  yesterday,  and 
twelve  to  the  Clearwater  river.  Six  miles  from  the  Clearwater  we  reached  a  large  creek  flowing 
with  a  rapid  current  over  a  rocky,  stony  bed,  through  high,  rocky,  steep  mountains.  This  creek 
is  called  by  the  Nez  Perces  Nahwah  ;  it  is  twenty  yards  wide,  and  empties  into  the  Clearwater 
about  twenty  miles  below  the  Nez  Perces'  camp  ;  we  crossed  this  creek  and  began  the  ascent 
of  a  steep  mountain,  the  last  of  the  Rocky  and  Bitter  Root  ranges.  This  mountain  was  formed 
principally  of  a  light  friable  rock,  containing  much  mica.  Gaining  the  summit  of  this  mountain, 
we  had  an  excellent  view  in  every  direction.  In  front  of  us  lay  the  broad  ocean  of  prairie  upon 
which  we  were  about  to  enter,  and  behind  us  the  immense  bed  of  rugged  and  uninviting  mount 
ains  with  which  we  had  been  but  too  familiar.  To  the  south  lay  distinctly  in  view  some  steep 
spurs  of  the  Snake  River  chain  towering  high  in  the  sky,  while  towards  the  north  lay  the  rugged 
chain  bordering  the  Cceur  d'Alene  country  on  the  south.  It  was  after  sunset  when  we  reached 
the  Clearwater,  which  we  found  to  be  a  stream  one  hundred  and  thirty  yards  in  width,  channel- 
water  two  feet  deep,  and  flowing  in  some  places  with  a  rapid  current,  over  a  rocky  and  pebbly 


534  FROM   CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO    FORT    DALLES. 

bed.  The  valley  of  this  stream  is  about  nine  miles  wide,  and  bounded  on  each  side  by  high, 
steep  clay  banks,  destitute  of  timber.  While  descending  the  steep  hill  to  gain  the  river  we  met 
with  large  quantities  of  volcanic  rock  lying  scattered  over  the  ground,  presenting  a  vesicular  honey 
combed  surface.  We  crossed  the  Clearwater  after  dark,  and  at  a  mile  distant  reached  a  lew 
lodges  of  Nez  Forces  Indians  encamped  on  the  Komyer  creek.  Here  is  the  country  of  the  Nez 
Perces  Indians,  where  they  have  large  fields  enclosed,  large  herds  of  cattle,  and  an  abundance  of 
the  fruits  of  nature.  The  soil  here  is  very  fertile,  and  the  winters  are  represented  as  being  very 
mild.  They  raise  large  quantities  of  wheat,  potatoes,  beans,  peas,  and  onions.  The  Salmon 
river,  which  is  only  two  days  distant,  affords  them  an  abundance  of  fish.  Large  quantities  of 
berries  are  found  on  the  streams  flowing  into  the  Clearwater.  Their  Camash  prairie  is  only 
twelve  miles  distant;  nature  thus  affording  them  every  advantage  and  every  means  of  sustaining 
life,  and  causing  them  to  live  happily  and  contented.  At  present  they  are  provided  with  no  mill, 
the  want  of  which  they  feel  very  much ;  at  present  they  make  use  of  the  wheat  by  either  boiling 
or  pounding  it. 

The  journey  across  the  mountains  having  proved  very  fatiguing  to  our  animals,  I  concluded  to 
rest  a  day  in  camp  with  the  Indians,  and  did  not  resume  our  journey  until  4  p.  m.  on  the  next 
day,  having  been  delayed  in  searching  for  some  of  our  horses  that  had  strayed  from  camp.  We 
lost  them  yesterday,  and  though  the  men  were  in  search  of  them  all  day,  they  were  unable  to 
discover  them.  I  was  disposed  to  believe  my  Indian  friends  had  cached  them;  for  it  was  only 
after  offering  them  a  large  reward  that  they  started  in  search  of  them,  when  in  a  few  minutes 
they  brought  them  in.  I  was  at  this  place  forcibly  reminded  of  the  national  characteristic 
meanness  arid  avarice  of  these  Indians.  I  have  met  them  many  times  in  the  mountains,  and 
they  have  to  me  always  displayed  those  same  traits  of  character.  I  desired  one  of  them  to 
accompany  me  on  my  journey,  but  he  demanded  such  an  enormous  reward  for  his  services  that 
I  told  him  I  preferred  travelling  alone  to  being  imposed  upon  by  them. 

Resuming  our  march,  our  course  tended  over  the  high  bluffs  bounding  the  Clearwater  on  the 
south  for  a  distance  of  three  miles,  our  course  being  5°  north  of  west  magnetic.  At  the  end  of 
this  distance  we  reached  the  high,  broad,  rolling  prairie,  over  which  we  travelled  five  miles,  to  a 
fork  of  the  river  now  dry,  but  when  supplied  with  water,  flows  through  a  deep,  narrow,  rocky 
gorge  or  ravine.  At  six  miles  farther  we  reached  a  second  creek,  containing  water  also,  flowing 
through  a  narrow  ravine,  the  creek  being  fringed  with  willow  and  a  few  broad-leafed  cotton-wood 
trees  ;  a  few  scattering  pines  were  also  to  be  seen  growing  along  the  slopes  of  the  hills.  Having 
travelled  a  distance  of  fourteen  miles,  we  encamped  on  the  right  bank  of  the  creek,  having  trav 
elled  until  after  sunset,  in  order  to  reach  good  grass  and  water.  We  found  the  old  grass  of  the 
prairie  burnt,  but  the  young  grass  was  now  springing  up.  We  had  an  excellent  view  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  from  the  west,  as  also  of  the  mountains  bordering  the  Snake  river,  all  being 
clad  with  the  pine.  The  day  was  bright  and  pleasant,  and  the  night  clear  and  mild. 

October  3. — Commences  clear  and  bright,  though  cool.  Ice  made  this  morning  about  daybreak. 
Resuming  our  journey  at  an  early  hour,  our  trail  lay  over  the  rolling  prairie  for  a  distance  of  six 
miles,  when  we  reached  a  creek  emptying  into  the  Clearwater,  and  flowing  through  a  deep,  nar 
row  gorge  of  volcanic  rock  about  one  hundred  feet  deep.  From  this  point,  for  eight  miles,  our 
trail  lay  over  the  rolling  prairie,  when  we  entered  an  open  pine  forest,  through  which  we  trav 
elled  for  a  distance  of  eight  miles,  when  we  reached  a  small  creek  running  towards  the  west,  and 
called  by  the  Nez  Perces  Lappahwat,  which  we  followed  for  a  distance  of  six  miles,  when  we 
reached  the  trading  establishment  of  William  Craig,  where  we  encamped,  having  travelled  a  dis 
tance  of  twenty-eight  miles.  The  Lappahwat  valley  is  five  hundred  yards  wide,  bounded  on  each 
side  by  high,  bare  hills  or  bluffs,  and  the  soil  is  quite  fertile.  Here  we  found  several  fields  en 
closed,  and  at  night  the  Indians  brought  us  onions,  cantaloups,  pumpkins,  and  tomaioes,  being 
the  first  we  had  seen  for  twenty-one  months  ;  they  proved  truly  refreshing.  The  climate  here  is 
mild,  and  all  garden  vegetables  are  found  to  grow  well,  and  in  the  greatest  abundance.  The 


FROM    CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO    FORT    DALLES.  535 

soil  in  many  places  is  a  rich  loam,  and  about  two  feet  deep ;  in  fact,  since  leaving  the  mountains 
we  have  found  the  soil  very  fertile.  Through  this  valley,  as  also  in  those  already  passed,  we 
found  large  bands  of  Indian  horses,  and  on  arriving  at  Mr.  Craig's  we  found  hogs,  goats,  and 
chickens  in  great  abundance. 

October  4. — Commences  bright  and  pleasant.  Having  secured  a  guide  at  the  Nez  Perces' 
camp,  we  resumed  our  journey,  which  lay  down  the  valley  of  the  Lappahwat  to  its  junction  with  the 
Cleat  water,  thence  down  the  left  bank  of  the  Clearwater  to  its  junction  with  the  Snake  river  or 
Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  where  we  encampe  I  for  the  night.  The  valley  of  the  Lappahwat 
near  its  mouth  we  found  to  be  half  a  mile  wide,  and  contains  many  Indian  farms;  the  soil  here  i; 
very  fertile,  and  large  fields  of  corn  and  potatoes  are  here  grown.  At  the  mouth  of  this  creek, 
on  the  right  bank,  is  Spalding's  old  mission,  which  was  abandoned  after  the  Whitman  massacre. 
This  place  being  well  sheltered  by  the  high  hills  and  bluffs  of  the  valley,  renders  it  a  very  desira 
ble  station  for  a  trading  post  or  a  large  farm,  or  an  Indian  agency.  The  grass  along  this  route, 
however,  we  found  very  sparse,  being  either  burnt,  or  destroyed  by  the  large  bands  of  horses 
roaming  over  it.  The  rock  along  these  bluffs  is  volcanic.  The  valley  of  the  Clearwater  we 
found  to  be  half  a  mile  wide,  and  the  river  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  and  flows  with  a 
gentle  and  equal  current  to  its  mouth.  At  its  junction  with  the  Snake  river  it  is  nearly  two  hun 
dred  yards  wide ;  the  Snake  river  at  the  same  point  being  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide, 
with  a  rapid  current.  The  bluffs  on  the  right  bank  are  high  and  steep,  and  perfectly  destitute  of 
timber  and  grass,  while  those  to  the  south  are  quite  low,  and  covered  with  a  rich  growth  of 
nutritious  grass. 

October  5. — Commences  cold  and  rainy.  It  rained  moderately  during  the  night,  accompanied 
by  a  heavy  wind  from  the  west;  and  having  encamped  on  the  bare  rocks  of  the  beach,  our  camp 
this  morning  proved  truly  uncomfortable.  As  soon  as  the  wind  had  lulled,  we  crossed  the  Snake 
river  in  a  canoe  that  we  had  secured  the  day  before.  We  made  the  crossing  without  difficulty, 
and  at  12  m.  resumed  our  march  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Snake  and  Clearwater  rivers;  the 
water  is  of  a  deep  sea-green  color,  and  is  very  deep.  The  banks  are  formed  of  gravel  and 
rounded  water-worn  stones,  the  marks  on  which  show  that  at  the  high  stage  of  water  the 
river  is  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  higher  than  we  found  it.  Our  road  along  the  Snake  river  was 
much  obstructed  by  rocks  and  stones  for  a  distance  of  seven  miles,  when  we  reached  a  great 
bend  of  the  stream,  the  river  turning  towards  the  north,  which  here  is  two  hundred  yards  wide, 
and  flows  with  a  rapid  current,  with  falls  and  cascades,  through  high,  steep  bluffs  or  hills;  those 
on  the  right  bank  being  covered  with  a  very  sparse  growth  of  grass,  while  those  on  the  left  are 
formed  mostly  of  columnar  rock,  fragments  of  which  are  continually  falling,  obstructing  the  path 
way  along  the  whole  route.  On  reaching  the  bend  referred  to  we  left  the  river,  our  course  being 
nearly  due  west.  Here  we  reached  a  small  stream  or  run  flowing  from  the  west,  through  high, 
steep  bluffs,  similar  in  every  respect  to  those  along  the  Snake  river.  This  creek  is  called  by  the 
Nez  Perces  the  Alpahwah.  It  is  bordered  by  the  willow,  long-leaved  cotton-wood,  birch, 
sumach,  cherry,  white  haw,  honeysuckle,  and  gooseberry.  It  is  from  eight  to  ten  yards  wide 
and  fifteen  inches  deep,  and  its  valley  bordered  on  each  side  by  high,  bare  bluffs.  Having 
travelled  a  distance  of  twelve  and  a  half  miles,  we  encamped  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Alpahwah, 
at  its  forks,  finding  very  good  grass  and  an  abundance  of  wood.  On  reaching  the  Snake  river  this 
morning,  the  guide,  who  was  a  Shawnee  Indian  who  had  accompanied  us  from  the  Bitter  Root 
valley,  desired  to  return.  Permission  was  granted  him,  when  he  returned  on  foot,  packing  his 
saddle  and  bedding  to  the  nearest  Indian  camp.  The  rain,  which  poured  in  torrents  during  the 
earlier  part  of  the  day,  abated  towards  noon,  but  recommenced  at  3  p.  m.,  and  continued  with 
force  till  night,  accompanied  by  a  heavy  wind  from  the  west.  At  7  p.  m.,  however,  it  ceased, 
with  a  clear  sunset,  giving  promise  of  a  bright  morrow.  The  soil  along  the  route  to-day,  where 
not  covered  with  rocks  and  stones,  we  found  fertile,  and  is  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  corn, 
potatoes,  and  wheat,  together  with  many  garden  vegetables.  We  saw  several  fields  that  had 


536  FROM    CANTONMENT    STEVENS    TO    FORT    DALLES. 

been  enclosed  by  the  Indians,  in  which  were  standing  the  stalks  of  corn  and  the  remains  of  wheat 
and  vegetables.  The  Indians  little  understanding  the  art  of  agriculture,  secure  from  the  soil  not 
more  than  one-fourth  of  that  which  it  is  capable  of  yielding.  They  are  badly  supplied  with 
farming  utensils,  and  are  compelled  to  use  any  and  every  thing,  such  as  sticks,  horns  of  animals, 
&c.,  in  tilling  their  crops.  Their  fences  are  roughly  and  rudely  made,  being  mostly  formed  of 
underbrush  and  bushes,  the  twigs  of  which  are  interwoven  with  each  other,  thus  affording  a  very 
weak  and  insecure  protection  against  the  bands  of  horses  that  they  possess.  Many  fine  bands 
of  horned  stock  were  to  be  seen  bro\vsing  along  the  borders  of  the  streams,  while  large  bands 
of  horses  nearly  wild  were  to  be  seen  along  the  tops  and  ridges  of  the  bluffs.  The  country  to-day 
we  found  much  cut  up  by  trails  and  roads  leading  in  every  possible  conceivable  direction,  and 
which  wrere  well  calculated  to  confuse  the  traveller. 

October  6. — We  resumed  our  march  this  morning  up  the  eastern  fork  of  the  Alpahwah  for  a 
distance  of  two  miles,  when  we  ascended  the  bluffs  bounding  it  on  the  west.  Gaining  the  top, 
we  reached  the  broad  rolling  prairie,  over  which  we  travelled  for  a  distance  of  five  miles,  when 
we  reached  a  small  stream  called  the  Pelahat,  flowing  towards  the  west.  The  valley  of  this  creek 
is  half  a  mile  wide,  and  covered  with  a  most  beautiful  growth  of  nutritious  grass.  It  is  ten 
yard>  wide,  fifteen  inches  deep,  and  timbered  with  the  white  haw,  cotton-wood,  and  willow,  but 
principally  the  latter.  It  is  bounded  on  each  side  by  a  range  of  prairie  bluffs  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  high,  and  covered  with  a  rich  growth  of  grass.  Travelling  down  its  right  bank  for 
a  distance  of  seven  miles,  we  crossed  to  the  opposite  bank,  and  at  a  distance  of  two  miles  crossed 
over  a  series  of  rolling  prairie  hills  for  three  miles,  when  we  reached  a  beautiful  creek,  called  by 
the  Indians  and  others  Two  Canon.  The  valley  where  we  struck  it  is  eight  hundred  yards 
wide,  and  bounded  on  each  side  by  high,  steep,  and  in  some  places  rocky  bluffs,  two  hundred 
feet  high.  The  stream  is  fifteen  yards  wide,  and  twelve  inches  deep,  and  bordered  with  the 
cotton-wood  and  willow,  principally  the  former.  The  grass  here  we  found  to  be  indifferent  and 
sparse,  though  the  soil  is  quite  fertile.  On  this  creek  lives  a  trader  by  the  name  of  Marangois,  a 
Frenchman,  who  has  several  fields  enclosed,  and  with  a  large  family  lives  quite  comfortably. 
The  Two  Canon  forms  the  southern  boundary  of  the  Nez  Perces  and  Cayuse  Indians.  Leaving 
this  creek,  we  travelled  over  a  beautiful  valley  prairie  for  a  distance  often  miles,  when  we  struck 
the  northern  branch  of  the  Touchet,  which  we  found  to  be  a  large  and  bold  stream,  flowing  through 
a  valley  a  mile  wide,  and  bounded  on  each  side  by  a  range  of  beautiful  hills.  There  is  no 
stream  that  we  have  found,  from  the  mountains  to  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  which  is  as  well 
wooded  as  the  Touchet,  nor  is  there  found  in  any  of  the  valley  bottoms  soil  of  a  richer  char 
acter  than  that  found  in  this  valley.  The  winters  are  represented  as  being  mild ;  thus  affording 
every  inducement  to  the  grazier  and  the  farmer.  Having  travelled  a  distance  of  thirty  miles, 
we  encamped  on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream  ;  and  the  next  morning,  making  an  early  start,  we 
reached  at  4  p.  m.  the  ranche  of  Messrs.  Brooks,  Bamford,  and  Noble,  where  we  rested  a  day  to 
refresh  ourselves  and  animals.  The  country  travelled  over  was  a  rolling  prairie,  and  many  of 
the  bottoms  were  exceedingly  rich  and  fertile.  Large  bands  of  Indian  horses  were  seen  along 
the  hill-tops,  and  through  the  numberless  bottoms  of  the  rolling  country.  I  have  seen  no  country 
superior  to  that  of  the  Nez  Perces  and  Cayuse  Indians,  and  which  offer  to  the  grazier  and  the 
agriculturist  inducements  which  are  rarely  surpassed  in  any  region.  The  grand  recommendation 
and  capability  of  this  whole  region  is  its  peculiar  adaptation  to  grazing  purposes;  and  were  it 
well  wooded,  could  not  be  surpassed  by  any  section  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

Resuming  our  march  on  the  9th,  we  reached  Fort  Wallah- Wallah,  where  we  met  the  party 
under  James  Doty,  Esq.,  who  had  taken  the  Coeur  d'Alene  route,  and  arrived  the  day  previous 
Securing  some  fresh  meat  at  this  point,  we  took  the  river  road,  by  the  Columbia,  to  Fort  Dulles, 
where  we  arrived  on  the  14th  of  October,  when  a  portion  of  my  party  were  discharged,  and  the 
public  property  turned  over  to  the  quartermaster. 

Taking  a  retrospective  view  of  the  country  passed  over  from  the  Bitter  Root  valley  to  the  Nez 


LETTER  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR.  537 

Forces'  camp,  I  can  arrive  at  but  one  conclusion — that  the  route  is  thoroughly  and  utterly  im 
practicable  for  a  railroad  route. 

From  the  head  of  Lo-Lo's  fork  to  the  Clearwater  the  country  is  one  immense  bed  of  rugged, 
difficult,  pine-clad  mountains,  that  can  never  be  converted  to  any  purpose  for  the  use  of  man. 

This  is  the  route  followed  by  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark,  in  1804,  and  by  Dr.  Evans,  the  United 
States  geologist  for  Oregon,  in  1850.  In  a  conversation  with  the  latter  named  gentleman,  he  told 
me  that  it  is  by  far  the  most  difficult  and  uninviting  country  that  he  has  ever  examined  in  all  his 
tours  through  the  Rocky  mountains  ;  and  I  am  compelled  to  say  that,  in  all  my  explorations  in 
that  region,  I  have  never  met  with  a  more  uninviting  or  rugged  bed  of  mountains.  The  whole 
country  is  densely  timbered,  save  at  a  few  points  where  small  patches  of  prairie  occur  suffi 
ciently  large  to  afford  camping  grounds  ;  but  beyond  this  it  cannot  be  converted  to  any  useful  pur 
pose.  The  country  from  the  point  where  I  crossed  the  Clearwater  to  Fort  Wallah- Wallah  is  a 
high-rolling  prairie,  and  is  well  adapted  to  agricultural  and  grazing  purposes,  and  affords  an  excel 
lent  home  for  the  Indians  inhabiting  that  region. 

Having  examined  three  routes  across  the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  I  pronounce  the  one  by  the 
Cceur  d'Alene  country  to  be  the  most  feasible  and  practicable :  the  only  obstruction  from  the 
Bitter  Root  valley  to  the  Snake  river  being  the  divide  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  which  would 
involve  a  tunnel  of  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  the  crossing  or  bridging  of  the  Bitter  Root 
or  St.  Mary's  river.  Should  the  line  along  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake  and  Spokane  river  be  the  link 
from  the  mission,  no  bridging  of  streams  would  be  necessary  save  that  of  the  Spokane  river, 
which,  during  low  water,  is  fordable,  and  which  never  rises  over  four  feet;  it  has  good  banks  on 
either  side,  and  in  many  places  could  be  bridged  by  a  single  span  or  arch.  But  should  the  lines 
direct  to  Wallah- Wallah  be  the  route  chosen,  it  would  involve  the  necessity  of  bridging  the  two 
guts  of  the  Coeur  d'Alene  lake,  which  could  be  done  by  a  single  arch  each.  I  refrain  from  enter 
ing  into  details  at  this  point  of  the  route,  since  it  has  been  examined  and  will  be  reported  upon 
by  Mr.  Doty. 

Accompanying  this  I  submit  a  map  of  the  country  travelled  from  Cantonment  Stevens  to  Fort 
Dalles,  together  with  a  series  of  sketches  characteristic  of  the  different  points  of  my  route. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  MULLAN, 

Lieutenant  United  States  Army. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Charge  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey. 


LETTER  OF  GOVERNOR  I.  I.  STEVENS  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR,  ADVISING  THE  CONDITION 
OF  THE  SURVEY,  AND  TRANSMITTING  REPORTS  OF  LIEUTENANT  JOHN  MULLAN,  U.  S.  A.,  AND 
MR.  GEORGE  W.  STEVENS. 

OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  January  3,  1855. 

SIR  :  I  have  been  prevented,  by  delays  on  the  route  from  Washington  city  to  this  place,  and 
the  time  required  to  examine  reports  and  adjust  accounts,  advising  you  earlier  of  the  condition  of 
the  survey  of  my  route. 

The  winter  parties  returned  in  October.  The  reports  of  Lieut.  Mullan  have  been  handed  in, 
and  will  be  forwarded  by  this  mail.  Those  of  Mr.  Doty  will  be  ready  in  a  few  days.  By  the 
next  mail  I  hope  to  be  able  to  forward  them  to  the  department.  I  will  observe  that,  for  the  want  of 
the  proper  instruments,  the  field  barometers  being  either  broken  or  out  of  order,  no  profile  was 
brought  in  by  either  party,  and,  excepting  the  observations  at  the  fixed  stations,  no  additional 
observations  were  made  to  test  the  profiles  submitted  by  me,  and  of  which  the  observations  have 
been  lost. 

68  / 


538  PASS    IN    TIIE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 

I  have  already  submitted  my  views  in  full  as  to  the  additional  work  required  on  my  route. 
The  importance  of  a  comparative  survey  of  the  lines  of  the  Columbia  river  and  the  Snoqualme 
Pass  was  dwelt  upon,  as  well  as  of  surveys  to  show  whether  the  Little  Blackfoot  passes  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  could  be  reached  from  St.  Paul  by  a  more  direct  route,  crossing  the  Missouri 
and  Yellowstone,  and  direct  from  the  western  frontier  of  Iowa  and  Missouri  by  a  route  through 
the  Black  Hills.  The  intermediate  routes  were  also  referred  to,  and  much  stress  was  laid  upon 
the  importance  of  making  a  survey  of  the  general  route  pursued  by  me  over  the  Cosur  d'Alene 
mountains  in  October,  1853,  to  determine  whether  it  was  practicable  fora  railroad,  thereby  abridg 
ing  the  distance  nearly  one  hundred  miles,  as  well  as  upon  a  survey  of  the  route  pursued  by 
Lieut.  Mullan  in  March  last,  on  his  return  from  Fort  Benton. 

Without  going  further  into  particulars,  I  have  the  honor  herewith  to  enclose  a  report  of  Lieut. 
Mullan,  urging  the  importance  to  the  complete  exposition  of  the  character  of  the  northern  route, 
that  a  profile  should  be  run  up  the  Missouri  to  Fort  Benton,  and  thence  by  the  Northern  Little 
Blackfoot  Pass  and  the  Cceur  d'Alene  route  to  the  Columbia  valley.  Lieut.  Mullan's  route  over 
the  Cceur  d'Alene  mountains  differs  from  my  own  in  following  a  trail  over  the  divide  a  few  miles 
farther  north.  The  pass  is  much  lower,  and,  in  the  judgment  of  Lieut.  Mullan,  perfectly  practi 
cable  for  a  railroad,  and  involving  a  tunnel  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  But  little 
work  is  required  to  make  it  perfectly  practicable  for  wagons. 

I  have  the  honor  herewith  to  enclose  a  copy  of  Lieut.  Mullan's  report,  and  to  recommend  it  to 
the  favorable  action  of  the  department.  His  estimate  I  consider  reliable,  and  his  plan  of  opera 
tions  perfectly  practicable. 

Should  Congress  make  an  appropriation  for  a  military  road  from  Fort  Benton  to  Wallah-Wallah, 
it  could  not  be  placed  in  better  hands  than  Lieut.  Mullan's,  and  thus  a  test  be  furnished  to  the 
work  on  the  railroad  exploration,  as  pointed  out  by  him,  at  a  much  smaller  sum  than  is  given  in 
his  estimate. 

I  also  have  the  honor  to  enclose  the  copy  of  a  report  by  Mr.  Stevens,  submitting  a  plan  and 
estimate  for  determining  with  accuracy  the  latitudes  and  longitudes  of  the  principal  stations,  with 
the  view  of  making  the  past  observations  available,  and  to  recommend  its  adoption  by  the  depart 
ment. 

Recapitulation. — Estimate  of  Lieut.  Mullan,  $5,000 ;  estimate  of  Mr.  Stevens,  $5,500  ;  total, 
$10,500. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 

Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington,  D.  C. 


REPORT    BY    LIEUT.   JOHN   MULLAN,   U.    S.    A.,    ON   A    PASS    IN    THK    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS    AND    A    PASS 

THROUGH  THE  BITTER  ROOT  MOUNTAINS. 

OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  December  12,  1854. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  for  your  consideration  the  following  brief  report  on  a  pass  in 
the  Rocky  mountains  and  a  pass  through  the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  which  I  found  in  my 
explorations  during  the  present  year. 

As  you  have  already  been  informed,  I  found  a  pass  in  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
in  March  last,  through  which  I  travelled  with  a  wagon,  without  the  slightest  difficulty.  The 
approaches  to  this  pass  from  either  side  are  easy  and  gradual — superior  by  far  to  any  that  I  have 
met  in  my  examinations  through  the  mountains.  This  pass  connects  with  the  falls  of  the  Missouri 


PASS   THROUGH    THE    BITTER   ROOT   MOUNTAINS.  539 

by  a  high-rolling  prairie  country  on  the  east,  and  directly  with  the  valleys  of  the  Little  Blackfoot 
and  Hell  Gate  rivers  on  the  west. 

During  my  examinations,  my  time  was  devoted  more  to  reconnaissances  than  to  detail  surveys. 
This  was  necessary,  owing  to  the  very  meagre  and  unreliable  information  that  was  at  our  disposal 
from  any  and  every  source.  Had  a  detail  survey  been  made  over  one  route,  to  the  exclusion  ol 
a  second  or  more  in  that  particular  region,  it  would  not,  I  fear,  have  given  satisfaction  either  to 
the  department  or  to  yourself;  and  I  am  confident  that  I  should  not  have  been  enabled  to  give  a 
decided  and  positive  opinion  as  to  the  superiority  of  one  over  another ;  for  had  the  time  been 
spent  in  examining  minutely  one  particular  line,  and  it,  in  the  end,  been  found  impracticable,  it 
might  have  been  possible  that  a  better  route  was  to  be  found  to  our  right  or  our  left,  and  yet  we 
be  perfectly  unconscious  of  it. 

Taking  the  view,  therefore,  that  the  mountains  should  be  examined  and  reconnoitred  in  a 
general  manner,  in  order  to  discover  and  explore  such  passes  as  might  exist,  I  devoted  my  time 
and  labors  in  carrying  out  this  plan.  In  so  doing,  I  went  through  several  passes,  and  this  one  in 
the  Rocky  mountains  I  now  refer  to  I  deem  the  most  practicable  of  all. 

But,  owing  to  the  want  of  proper  instruments,  after  its  discovery  I  was  not  enabled  to  give  its 
position  astronomically  or  its  accurate  profile.  Suffice  it  to  say,  however,  it  is  the  best  pass  I 
have  yet  found  in  the  mountains,  with  excellent  approaches  on  either  side.  This  pass  extends  to 
the  Bitter  Root  and  St.  Mary's  valleys,  by  the  Hell  Gate  defile.  The  route  then  followed  is  by 
the  Bitter  Root  valley  to  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Regis  Borgia  creek;  thence  up  this  creek  to  the 
divide  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  to  the  north  gut  of  the  Coeur  d'Alene  lake;  thence  either  by 
the  Spokane  river  to  the  Columbia,  or  by  crossing  the  two  guts  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  lake  to 
Snake  river,  at  or  near  its  great  bend  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Wall  ah- Wallah,  or  avoiding  the 
Snake  river  in  toto  by  striking  the  Columbia  over  a  high-rolling  prairie  country  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Yakima. 

I  deem  an  instrumental  survey  of  these  two  passes  to  be  vitally  necessary,  in  order  to  show 
their  relations  to  the  passes  already  explored  and  surveyed,  and  at  the  same  time  show  their 
advantages  as  compared  to  the  passes  already  examined  through  the  Rocky  and  Bitter  Root 
ranges  of  mountains ;  and  I  further  deem  them  essentially  necessary,  in  view  of  a  final  report  upon 
this  great  and  momentous  question. 

Were  there  no  other  consideration  to  induce  this,  the  fact  alone  that  the  barometric  profiles  of 
the  expedition  were  lost  while  on  their  way  to  Washington  city,  is,  in  itself,  a  sufficient  argument 
to  have  a  more  thorough  examination  made  in  that  interesting  region  of  country. 

Owing  to  the  action  of  the  Indian  Department,  in  conformity  to  an  act  of  the  last  Congress, 
authorizing  it  to  hold  a  council  with  the  Indian  tribes  at  Fort  Benton  during  the  coming  season,  I 
would  suggest  the  following  plan,  which  might  be  submitted  to  the  Hon.  Secretary  of  War  for  his 
approval  or  disapproval. 

Presupposing  that  a  large  force  will  be  present  at  the  council,  a  party  of  one  officer  and  four 
employes  might  be  authorized  to  accompany  it  for  protection  as  far  as  the  falls  of  the  Missouri 
from  St.  Louis.  A  party  so  starting  and  so  organized  could  determine  the  latitude  and  longitude 
of  those  points  of  the  Missouri  to  the  falls  not  yet  determined,  as  well  as  ascertain  the  heights 
above  the  sea  of  the  principal  points  along  the  route;  thus  giving  the  profile  from  St.  Louis  to  the 
Great  falls  of  the  Missouri.  The  party  then  starting  from  the  falls  would  be  enabled  to  make  a 
detail  and  instrumental  survey  of  the  two  passes  I  refer  to,  even  so  far  as  to  running  a  line  of 
spirit-levels  through  the  passes,  with  their  approaches  on  either  side.  Thus  taking  advantage  of 
this  council  to  be  held  at  the  falls  of  the  Missouri,  a  party  of  five  men  would  be  complete  in  itself, 
and  would  be  enabled  to  develop  the  same  facts  that  it  might  take  a  party  of  twenty-five  or 
thirty — the  smallest  party  that  could  be  sent  with  safety  into  that  country — supposing  them  to 
take  advantage  of  the  presence  of  the  men  who  will  necessarily  be  at  the  council. 

Taking  into  consideration  the  exceedingly  economical  and  small  scale  upon  which  such  an 


540  PLAN    FOR   DETERMINING    LATITUDES   AND   LONGITUDES. 

expedition  could  be  carried  on,  it  does  seem  to  me  that,  upon  a  proper  representation  being  made 
to  the  Hon.  Secretary  of  War,  he  must  necessarily  see  the  great  advantage  flowing  from  it. 

I  have  estimated  that  a  sum  of  five  thousand  dollars  will  thoroughly  and  efficiently  organize 
the  party,  keep  it  in  the  field,  and  cover  any  and  every  expense  attending  it  under  the  most 
unfavorable  circumstances. 

Considering,  therefore,  the  great  ends  to  be  accomplished,  I  would  most  respectfully  lay  before 
you  this  letter  for  your  consideration. 

Truly,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

J.  MULLAN, 

Lieutenant    U.  S.  Army. 
Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS. 


REPORT  OF  MR.  GEORGE  W.  STEVENS,  SUBMITTING  A  PLAN  AND  ESTIMATE  FOR  DETERMINING 
WITH  ACCURACY  THE  LATITUDES  AND  LONGITUDES  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STATIONS  ON  THE 
ROUTE  NEAR  THE  4?TH  AND  49TH  PARALLELS. 

OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  December  21,  1854. 

SIR:  In  the  progress  of  the  main  train  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Exploration  and  Sur 
vey,  it  was  intended  to  make,  at  several  of  the  important  points  on  the  route,  observations  of 
moon  culminations  with  the  transit  instrument,  for  the  accurate  determination  of  longitudes  ;  but 
on  taking  the  field  it  was  found  that  marches  must  be  made  with  far  greater  rapidity  than  was 
anticipated,  and  that  time  would  not  admit  of  this  instrument  being  set  up  for  a  sufficient  length 
of  time  at  any  of  the  proposed  stations.  Throughout  the  whole  route,  the  sextant  was  used  upon 
every  favorable  night  for  the  determination  of  time  and  latitudes.  The  latitudes  thus  secured 
are  good  throughout,  and  the  chronometric  longitudes  might  be  made  of  use  had  we  accurate 
determinations  of  the  principal  stations  from  which  to  check  them.  The  method  of  lunar  dis 
tances  was  not  made  use  of,  from  the  knowledge  of  the  fact  that  the  best  observations  give  but 
inferior  results,  and  my  own  limited  experience  would  not  authorize  their  attempt.  Nor  was  the 
astronomical  party  supplied  with  a  telescope  suitable  for  observing  the  eclipses  of  Jupiter's  satel 
lites  and  occultations  of  fixed  stars  by  the  moon. 

Could  the  route  be  again  traversed  with  a  small  party  under  rny  direction,  whose  movements 
might  be  entirely  independent  of  those  of  a  large  train  with  other  duties  to  perform,  and  the 
transit  established  at  the  principal  stations  during  at  least  one  lunation  at  each,  not  only  might 
the  stations  so  occupied  be  determined  with  close  approximation  to  the  truth,  but  the  observa 
tions  at  intermediate  camps  made  on  our  way  from  the  Mississippi  might  be  brought  into  use. 

Olympia  has  been  occupied  during  the  past  summer  as  such  a  station,  and  the  observations 
made,  whenever  the  weather  would  permit,  give  a  good  determination  for  this  point. 

I  would  most  earnestly  ask  that  the  opportunity  may  be  afforded  me  of  recrossing  the  northern 
route,  and  I  would  submit  the  following  as  a  programme  of  operations,  which  would  serve  the 
requisite  ends  : 

To  occupy  Wallah- Wallah,  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  (its  eastern  extremity,  where  the  Clark's  fork 
enters  it,)  St.  Mary's  village,  Fort  Benton,  Fort  Union,  and  Sauk  rapids,  our  point  of  departure 
from  the  Mississippi,  as  transit  stations. 

At  each  of  these  stations,  besides  the  observations  of  moon  culminations,  observe  all  the  occult 
ations  available,  and  eclipses  of  Jupiter's  satellites.  The  longitude  determined  by  an  occultation 
is  deemed  more  reliable  than  by  the  other  method,  when  made  under  favorable  circumstances, 
and  made  in  connexion  with  transit  observations  is  particularly  valuable.  In  so  high  latitudes  as 
those  of  this  route,  the  atmosphere  is  not  so  favorable  for  observing  the  eclipses  of  Jupiter's  satel 
lites  as  in  the  lower  latitudes  j  nevertheless,  they  will  give  very  fair  results.  They  may  be 


PLAN   AND    ESTIMATE   FOR   DETERMINING   LATITUDES   AND   LONGITUDES.  541 

observed  quite  frequently  while  en  route,  and  thus  serve  as  checks  on  the  chronometric  longitudes. 
As  the  long  stay  at  the  principal  stations  will  afford  the  means  of  obtaining  excellent  observations 
for  the  rates  of  the  chronometers,  it  is  believed  that  the  position  of  every  camp  may  be  deter 
mined  with  a  near  approximation  to  the  truth. 

Occultations  are  of  rare  occurrence,  and  it  can  hardly  be  expected  that  more  than  two,  possibly 
but  one,  can  be  observed  during  a  lunation. 

At  each  principal  station,  extended  series  of  latitude  observations  with  the  sextant  should  be 
made ;  and  also  the  latitudes  of  the  camps  en  route  be  determined. 

The  requisite  instruments  are  in  store  at  this  place  ;  consequently  no  outlay  for  instruments  is 
needed.  The  party  should  contain,  besides  an  assistant,  three  packers  and  a  cook.  The  princi 
pal  expenditures  would  be  for  the  services  of  the  members  of  the  party,  their  subsistence  and 
transportation. 

With  a  small  appropriation,  therefore,  these  observations  can  be  made,  and  their  value  cannot 
be  overrated.  Although  a  list  of  longitudes  might  have  been  obtained  on  our  route  hitherward, 
the  rapid  marches  and  all  the  circumstances  of  the  movements  of  the  train  were  such,  that  good 
results  could  not  have  been  secured.  With  an  appropriation  enabling  the  carrying  out  of  a  pro 
gramme  similar  to  the  above,  I  think  such  positions  can  be  determined  as  will  answer  for  the 
ground-work  of  a  map  published  in  the  year  1855,  and  which  will  not  be  materially  corrected  by 
future  explorers  who  may  visit  these  points. 

I  have  estimated  $5,500  as  the  total  cost  of  the  proposed  operations. 

From  Fort  Benton  I  would  propose,  as  the  chronometers  kept  tolerable  rates  from  the  Missis 
sippi  to  this  point,  to  descend  the  Missouri  to  St.  Louis,  stopping  to  occupy  Fort  Union  as  a  per 
manent  station,  and  making  the  usual  camp  observations  all  the  way.  Afterwards,  I  would 
propose  to  visit  Sauk  rapids,  and  occupy  that  station.  By  this  arrangement  a  great  expense 
may  be  saved,  and  every  object  be  effected.  Should  a  steamboat  be  chartered  for  the  Blackfoot 
council,  I  could  probably  connect  with  her  at  Fort  Benton  ;  otherwise  a  row-boat  can  there  be 
obtained  in  which  to  descend  the  river  to  the  settlements. 

I  have  made  the  following  programme  of  the  periods  to  be  allotted  for  the  occupation  of  each 
station  as  far  as  Fort  Union.  The  distances  separating  them  can  be  easily  made  in  the  times 
intervening : 

At  Wallah -Wall  ah,  from  April  20  to  May  10. 
At  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  from  May  20  to  June  2. 
At  St.  Mary's  village,  from  July  17  to  August  6. 
At  Fort  Benton,  from  August  16  to  September  5. 
At  Fort  Union,  from  September  18  to  October  5. 

Should  the  appropriation  asked  for  be  made,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  I  may  be  able  to  reach 
Wallah- Wallah  at  the  time  above  specified ;  otherwise  another  lunation  must  be  awaited. 

It  is  indispensable  that  a  portable  observatory,  with  a  stand  for  transit,  should  be  carried  along, 
as  at  none  of  the  stations  proposed  to  be  occupied  for  an   extended  series  of  observations  can  the 
proper  materials  for  their  construction  be  procured.     A  stiffly  braced  frame,  with  roofs,  sides,  &c., 
of  water-proof  canvass,  may  be  made,  which  will  not  be  very  difficult  of  transportation. 
Very  respectfully  and  truly  yours, 

GEO.  W.  STEVENS. 
His  Excellency  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 


512  LETTER   TO    THE    SECRETARY   OP   WAR. 

LETTER  OF  GOVERNOR   I.  I.  STEVENS  TO    THE    SECRETARY    OF    WAR,   TRANSMITTING    TWO    REPORTS 

OF  MR.  JAMES  DOTY. 

OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  April  20,  1855. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  herewith  to  enclose  two  reports  from  Mr.  James  Doty — the  first  dated 
nt  Olympia,  December  15,  1854,  giving  the  results  of  his  exploration  from  Fort  Benton,  along 
the  eastern  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  to  latitude  49°  30';  the  second  dated  at  Olympia,  Jan 
uary  1,  1855,  giving  the  results  of  a  reconnaissance  from  Fort  Benton  to  Cantonment  Stevens  in 
July,  1854,  and  of  a  survey  from  Fort  Benton  to  Olympia  in  September  and  October,  1854. 

These  reports  will  close  my  series  of  preliminary  reports  in  relation  to  the  exploration  and 
survey  of  the  northern  railroad  route,  under  the  original  instructions  of  the  War  Department.  If, 
in  the  course  of  my  Indian  duties  the  present  season,  additional  information  shall  be  gained,  I 
will  submit  it  to  the  department  for  such  disposition  as  may  seem  to  the  department  appropriate. 

By  referring  to  the  first  report  it  will  be  observed  that  there  is  every  probability  of  the  existence 
of  a  wide,  open  pass,  formerly  in  extensive  use  by  the  Indians,  some  twenty  miles  south  of  the 
pass  explored  in  October  and  November,  1853,  by  A.  W.  Tinkham,  Esq.,  assistant  engineer. 

I  will  extract  as  follows  from  that  report : 

"  May  24. — The  Marias  river  comes  through  a  gnp  in  the  mountains  some  fifteen  miles  in 
width.  The  country  is  hilly,  and  densely  timbered  with  pine;  but  the  soil  is  rich,  even  in  the 
highest  hills.  There  are,  however,  many  grassy  openings  or  small  prairies  from  one  to  ten  acres 
in  extent.  From  a  peak  of  mountains,  next  below  the  highest  range,  I  obtained  a  good  view  of 
the  course  of  the  river,  and  found  that  it  runs  northeast,  while  Mr.  Tinkham's  survey  makes 
its  course  southeast.  His  description  and  topography  of  the  pass  and  mountains  do  not  agree 
with  the  reality,  and  it  would  certainly  seem  as  though  he  could  not  have  passed  through  here. 
Farther,  directly  up  the  main  stream,  is  impracticable;  but  this  wide  depression,  and  no  mount 
ains  to  be  seen  in  the  west,  would  seem  to  indicate  the  existence  of  a  favorable  pass  on  some  of 
its  branches.  A  sextant  observation  at  noon  gives  for  the  latitude  of  our  camp  48°  20'  59", 
which  is  more  than  twenty  miles  south  of  the  location  given  this  river  by  Mr.  Tinkham." 

Again : 

"At  a  distance  of  four  miles  more  I  ascended  a  lofty  hill,  from  the  summit  of  which  I  obtained 
a  commanding  view  of  the  pass  and  the  course  of  the  river  for  a  long  distance  to  the  southwest. 

"  The  pass  continues  about  fifteen  miles  in  breadth  ;  the  country  hilly,  and  densely  wooded 
with  pine.  The  mountains  on  either  hand  are  lofty  and  rugged,  showing  generally  perpendicular 
rock  from  within  three  hundred  feet  of  their  summits,  and  are  covered  with  snow  as  in  mid 
winter.  Snow-banks  were  also  found  on  the  north  side  of  many  hills  in  the  pass.  Up  the  pass 
to  the  southwest  no  mountains  obstruct  the  view,  and  I  am  satisfied  that  Mr.  Tinkham  could  not 
have  passed  over  this  trail,  as  he  could  not  pronounce  this  portion  of  the  pass  so  difficult  as  his 
report  and  topography  represent  it.  This  pass  is  not  vouched  for  as  a  good  railroad  or  pack- 
train  route ;  yet  it  is  believed  worthy  of  further  examination,  and  I  only  regret  that  I  cannot 
make  it,  as  your  instructions  require  me  to  be  at  Fort  Benton  in  the  last  days  of  this  month." 

The  second  report  gives  much  detailed  information  in  regard  to  the  railroad  practicability  of 
Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  a  comparative  view  of  the  merits  of  the  Big 
Blackfoot  and  Northern  Little  Blackfoot  trails,  and  the  details  of  a  new  route — the  route  from 
the  Coeur  d'Alene  mission  to  Fort  Wallah-Wallah. 

A  sketch  accompanies  these  reports. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  most  obedient, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 

Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington,  D.  C. 


FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO   LATITUDE   49°    30'.  643 

REPORT  OF  MR.  JAMES  DOTY  OF  A  SURVEY  FROM    FORT  BENTOIST,  NEAR    THE  GREAT    FALLS  OF    THE 
MISSOURI,  ALONG  THE  EASTERN  BASE  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  TO  LATITUDE  49°  30'  N. 

OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  December  15,  1854. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report  of  a  survey  from  Fort  Benton,  near  the 
Great  falls  of  the  Missouri,  along  the  eastern  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  to  latitude  49°  30'. 

May  10,  1854. — Morning  cloudy  and  cool,  with  the  thermometer  47°  at  7  a.  m.  Had  the 
horses  brought  up  early,  but  it  took  a  long  time  to  pack  them,  especially  the  mules,  which  were 
very  unruly  on  account  of  their  long  furlough  from  work.  At  11  a.  m.  left  Fort  Benton,  heartily 
glad  to  be  out  of  it,  and  once  more  in  the  plains.  My  party  consisted  of  Hugh  Monroe,  inter 
preter  and  guide ;  Henry  Koaster  and  Benjamin  Lint,  soldiers ;  and  an  Indian  boy  to  lead  the 
odometer,  which  was  fixed  on  a  light  pair  of  wheels  drawn  by  one  horse.  Taking  a  course 
about  south  20°  west,  passed  up  the  Missouri  river,  and  struck  it  at  the  mouth  of  a  large  ravine 
known  as  the  "  Big  Coulee."  Here  we  camped,  having  made  11£  miles. 

May  11. — Morning  clear  and  very  warm.  The  mules  were  difficult  to  catch  and  pack,  and 
we  made  a  late  start.  Took  a  course  for  the  Great  falls,  endeavoring  to  keep  near  the  river. 
Crossed  a  number  of  deep  ravines,  and  finally  came  to  some  that  were  impassable,  and  were 
compelled  to  go  around  them.  These  ravines  commence  in  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Mis 
souri  and  Teton  rivers.  They  are  narrow,  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  feet  deep, 
with  a  steep  descent  to  within  fifty  feet  of  the  bottom,  and  for  the  remaining  distance  are  perpen 
dicular  walls  of  red  sandstone.  Saw  during  the  day  numbers  of  antelope.  At  5  p.  m.  had  a 
thunder-shower,  accompanied  by  a  srong  and  very  cold  wind  from  the  north.  Just  at  sundown 
heard  the  roar  of  the  falls,  and  saw  the  cloud  of  spray  always  hanging  over  them.  The  descent 
towards  the  falls  is  by  an  easy  slope  until  reaching  a  nearly  perpendicular  descent  of  fifty  feet, 
over  red  and  gray  sandstone  rock.  Descending  this,  we  found  ourselves  upon  a  grassy  plateau 
three  or  four  acres  in  extent,  the  descent  from  which  is  also  perpendicular,  excepting  in  one 
place,  where  the  mules  got  down.  This  brought  us  nearly  on  a  levei  with  the  river;  and  cross 
ing  a  luxuriant  grass  plat,  and  down  another  stair  or  step,  we  were  at  the  water's  edge.  Here 
we  encamped,  almost  under  the  Great  falls,  and  in  the  identical  place  where  Lewis  and  Clark 
encamped  when  they  ascended  the  Missouri.  Made  to-day  28.77  miles. 

May  12. — Morning  clear  and  very  warm,  even  before  sunrise.  Being  much  in  need  of  fresh 
meat,  I  went  hunting  in  the  hills,  and  in  an  hour  killed  an  antelope.  After  breakfast  I  examined 
the  falls.  They  are  about  eighty  feet  in  height,  formed  by  a  barrier  of  limestone  and  hard  red 
sandstone,  and  the  perpendicular  bluffs  on  either  side  of  the  river  are  of  the  same  formation. 
Immediately  below  the  falls  is  a  point  of  rocks  extending  one-third  of  the  distance  across  the 
stream,  and  terminating  in  a  platform  two  hundred  feet  square  and  fifty  feet  high.  When  the 
river  rises  this  rock  becomes  an  island,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  large  piles  of  drift-wood  lying  upon 
the  point  connecting  it  writh  the  shore.  From  this  rock  is  obtained  the  best  view  of  the  "Great 
Falls"  of  the  Missouri,  which,  although  not  equalling  JNiagara  in  grandeur  and  sublimity,  yet  pre 
sents  a  grand  and  beautiful  scene ;  and  looking  upon  it  in  the  wildness  and  loveliness  of  the 
plains,  the  snow-clad  peaks  of  the  Rocky  mountains  in  full  view,  reflecting  that  it  is  2,500 
miles  from  civilization,  and  how  few  white  men  have  seen  it,  it  presented  to  me  a  scene  full  of 
interest.  The  narrow  bottom  skirting  the  river  below  the  fall  extends  some  eighty  rods  in  length, 
and  contains  about  five  acres.  Upon  it  are  growing  a  few  dwarf  cotton-wood,  red  cedar,  box 
alder,  and  cherry  bushes.  I  noticed  here  several  varieties  of  flowers.  Of  the  grizzly  and  brown 
bears,  so  numerous  here  in  the  days  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  no  trace  remains  save  a  solitary  den 
in  the  rock,  where  some  huge  grizzly  passed  the  winter. 

Had  much  difficulty  in  getting  the  mules  up  the  rocky  road  they  came  down,  and  it  was  11 
o'clock  before  we  were  fairly  under  way.  Took  a  course  northeast,  to  head  the  coulees,  and 
then  turned  nearly  due  south.  In  four  miles  passed  near  the  upper  fall,  which  1  visited  last 


544  FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO   LATITUDE    49°    30'. 

winter.  Passed  over  a  level  or  slightly-rolling  plain,  and  in  fifteen  miles  reached  Nah-too-see  or 
Medicine  river,  eight  miles  from  its  mouth.  Having  directed  the  men  where  to  encamp,  I  rode 
down  the  river.  Sun  river,  at  its  junction  with  the  Missouri,  is  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
yards  wide  ;  deep,  with  a  strong  current.  It  does  not  overflow  its  banks,  although  they  are  no 
more  than  six  to  eight  feet  high.  It  is  different  from  other  streams  in  this  country,  in  passing  a 
broad  valley  bounded  by  hills  of  easy  slope.  The  course  of  the  Missouri  is  here  northeast,  and 
its  banks  are  low.  The  soil  is  a  light,  sandy  loam,  of  considerable  fertility,  and  bears  a  luxu 
riant  crop  of  grass.  The  timber  is  poor,  consisting  of  cotton-wood  of  small  growth,  white  wil 
low,  birch,  and  box  alder.  As  a  location  for  an  agency  and  farm,  this  does  not  compare  favora 
bly  with  the  Highwood  river,  where  the  soil  is  better,  timber  and  stone  abundant,  and  the 
distance  to  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Missouri  only  eighteen  miles,  while  from  here  it  is 
thirty-five  miles.  Saw  a  large  number  of  geese,  two  of  which  I  killed.  Reached  camp  at  sun 
down.  Made  to-day  19.66  miles. 

May  13. — This  is  a  clear,  warm  morning.  Up  early,  and  at  8  o'clock  started  up  the  river. 
The  travelling  is  very  bad.  Heavy  storms  have  passed  here  lately,  and  quantities  of  hail  are 
still  to  be  seen  in  the  hollows,  and  the  ground  is  so  soaked  with  rain  that  the  horses  sink  to  their 
fetlocks  in  mud  as  tenacious  as  glue.  Finding  it  impossible  to  travel  here,  we  made  a  detour  to 
the  right,  keeping  on  the  hills,  where  the  road  is  better.  Struck  the  river  again  in  a  few  miles, 
and  continued  up  the  river.  Noticed  to-day  many  birds  commonly  seen  in  the  Western  States, 
as  the  meadow  lark,  red-winged  blackbird,  cow  birds,  pigeon  hawk,  black  eagle,  robin,  swallow, 
plover,  mallard  duck,  teal,  &c.  It  is  impossible  for  me  to  procure  specimens  of  birds,  as  I  have 
no  fine  shot. 

Procured  several  varieties  of  flowers,  which  were  carefully  preserved.  The  river  is  becoming 
shoaler  and  more  rapid.  The  country  continues  the  same  as  near  the  mouth.  Encamped  at  an 
early  hour  at  the  foot  of  a  large  island  more  heavily  timbered  than  any  point  below.  Half  a 
mile  below  my  camp  is  where  the  main  train  crossed  the  river,  and,  passing  to  the  north  of  Crown 
Butte,  entered  the  Blackfoot  Pass.  Crown  Butte  and  the  Big  Knee  near  it  are  lofty,  fiat-topped 
buttes,  called  by  the  Indians  the  Rattlers,  and  are  prominent  land-marks,  indicating  the  position 
of  the  Blackfoot  Pass  and  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass.  They  can  be  seen  from  the  Highwood 
mountains,  sixty  miles  distant.  Made  to-day  23|  miles. 

May  14,  Sunday. — To-day  we  remained  in  camp,  as  I  am  opposed  to  travelling  on  the  Sab 
bath  when  there  is  not  the  slightest  necessity  for  so  doing.  After  breakfast  1  walked  up  the 
river,  in  the  hope  of  finding  some  specimens  for  the  natural  history  collection,  but  was  entirely 
unsuccessful.  Excepting  a  number  of  new  flowers,  I  saw  nothing  worth  collecting.  Returned 
to  camp  at  sundown.  Barometrical  observations  have  been  taken  at  proper  points  upon  the 
route,  and  also  observations  in  camp. 

May  15. — Morning  clear  and  pleasant,  but  cool.  Passed  up  the  valley,  keeping  close  to  the 
river,  and  in  five  miles  came  to  a  flat-topped  butte ;  continued  along  its  base  in  a  narrow  bottom, 
and  in  twenty  miles  found  that  the  river  washed  the  base  of  the  butte,  which  is  here  of  gray 
sandstone,  rendering  farther  progress  in  this  direction  impracticable.  Turned  back,  and  made  a 
long  detour  to  the  right,  and  struck  the  river  again  opposite  two  large  islands,  and  here  we  en 
camped,  having  made  24.52  miles.  One  mile  from  here  we  crossed  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander's  trail, 
which  is  not  correctly  laid  down  on  the  map.  The  river  does  not  fork  here,  and  channels  be 
tween  islands  must  have  been  mistaken  for  the  three  forks  laid  down.  Collected  to-day  six  new 
varieties  of  flowers,  but  saw  no  snakes  or  reptiles.  Country  the  same  as  passed  over  yesterday ; 
grass  luxuriant ;  hills  low,  and  no  coulees.  Night  clear  and  cool. 

May  16. — Moved  early,  keeping  now  on  the  high  ground,  and  cutting  the  bends  of  the  river  as 
the  valley  is  becoming  narrow.  Country  more  broken,  and  soil  better  than  I  have  yet  seen. 
River  bends  more  to  the  west,  and  we  are  now  travelling  directly  towards  the  mountains,  the 
more  lofty  of  which  are  covered  with  snow.  On  our  right,  about  the  centre  of  the  great  semi- 


FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    LATITUDE    49°    30'.  545 

circle  formed  by  the  mountains,  stretching  from  the  gate  of  the  mountain  on  the  Missouri  to  the 
sources  of  Sun  river,  stands  a  lofty,  conical  shaped  mountain,  called  by  the  Indians  Hart 
mountain  ;  it  is  ten  miles  from  the  main  chain  of  mountains,  and  is  a  very  prominent  land 
mark,  indicating  the  position  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass,  and  another  pass  on  the  south' fork  of 
Sun  river. 

Night  clear  and  cool.  In  the  afternoon  passed  a  large  fork  coming  in  on  the  south  ;  it  is  nearly 
as  large  as  the  main  stream,  and  does  not  appear  to  have  an  extensive  valley  in  the  mountains. 
Just  above  this  I  killed  a  large  elk,  and  therefore  I  call  this  "Elk  fork."  The  country  continues  to 
grow  more  broken,  and  the  soil  richer.  Collected  several  new  specimens  of  flowers,  but  no  birds 
or  reptiles.  Encamped  early,  having  made  23.45  miles. 

May  17. — Moved  early,  and  leaving  the  river  on  our  left,  struck  for  a  towering  snow-capped 
peak,  which  appears  to  mark  the  spot  where  the  river  comes  out  of  the  mountains. 

The  face  of  the  country  clearly  indicates  our  approach  to  a  great  mountain  range.  Huge 
fragments  of  granite,  limestone,  sandstone,  and  a  few  granite  boulders,  are  scattered  over  the 
plain.  Noticed  outcroppings  of  strata  of  sandstone  and  limestone,  with  a  nearly  vertical'  dip, 
running  north  and  south.  In  fourteen  miles  came  to  scattering  scrub-pines,  being  again  near 
the  river,  and  in  one  mile  more  extend  to  a  lovely  valley  some  two  miles  in  breadth,  and  extend 
ing  up  the  river  three  or  four  miles.  This  valley  is  elevated  above  the  river  some  two  hundred 
feet.  The  soil  is  a  rich  gravelly  loam,  grass  luxuriant,  and  a  prolusion  of  gny  colored  flowers. 
Near  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  are  two  small  lakes,  in  which  numbers  of  water-fowl  were 
swimming.  Pushed  on  as  far  as  it  was  practicable  to  take  the  odometer  wagon,  and  encamped 
on  the  edge  of  the  river  in  a  narrow  bottom,  fringed  with  a  few  pines  and  red  birch. 

May  J8. — To-day  I  remain  in  camp  to  determine  the  latitudes,  examine  the  mountains  for  a 
pass,  and  to  collect  specimens.  Started  early  up  the  river  on  foot;  valley  narrows,  bottoms  dis 
appear,  and  the  river  is  shut  in  by  precipitous  mountains.  Climbing  along  the  side-hill  over 
masses  of  rock  fallen  from  the  precipices  above,  came  to  a  narrow  strip  of  level  ground  alone:  the 
stream,  and  following  it,  in  eighty  rods  reached  a  perpendicular  wall  of  limestone  rock  one  hun 
dred  feet  high,  in  which  is  an  opening  twenty  feet  wide,  and  extending  from  top  to  bottom,  and 
through  this  the  river  flows  in  a  swift,  deep  current.  I  have  named  this  the  Gate  of  Sun  river. 
The  sources  of  Sun  river  are  evidently  far  up  in  the  mountains,  and,  being  very  anxious  to  make 
further  explorations,  I  attempted  to  climb  the  rocks  on  the  right  bank,  but  did  not  succeed.  I 
then  ascended  one  of  the  peaks  next  below  the  highest,  which  it  was  impossible  to  ascend ;  and 
the  view  from  this  point  was  magnificent.  Above  and  around  were  snow-covered  hills  and  the 
breath  of  winter,  while  the  luxuriant  grass  and  gay  flowers  in  the  valley  far  below  were  fast 
approaching  maturity  under  the  summer's  sun.  Collected  twenty  new  varieties  of  flowers  and  a 
few  geological  specimens ;  returned  to  camp,  and  took  a  meridian  altitude  of  the  sun,  which 
gives  for  the  latitude  of  this  camp  47°  32'  39",  which  agrees  very  well  with  the  position  as  given 
by  the  compass  and  odometer  line.  There  is  no  timber  here  suitable  for  building  purposes;  the 
pine  is  small  and  scrubby,  and  is  only  fit,  perhaps,  for  railroad  ties.  The  soil  is  excellent;  but 
there  is  not  a  sufficient  extent  of  level  land  to  render  it  a  good  location  for  farms. 

May  19. — Morning  clear  and  warm  ;  made  a  late  start.  Our  course  lay  close  along  the  mount 
ains,  over  hills  of  considerable  elevation,  covered  with  scrub-pines  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high, 
through  which  we  had  much  difficulty  in  taking  the  odometer  wagon.  In  fact,  this  delays  us 
every  day,  and  renders  a  long  march  impossible;  but,  being  anxious  for  a  correct  measurement 
of  the  distance  to  the  boundary,  I  shall  take  the  odometer  through.  The  mountains  now  trend  to 
the  east  of  north,  but  appear  to  terminate  that  course  at  a  conical  peak  distant  about  twenty-five 
miles.  In  four  miles  came  to  a  small  spring-brook,  which  is  the  most  southerly  headwaters  of 
the  Teton  river,  and  in  ten  miles  more  reached  two  beautiful  creeks,  which  unite  just  below  our 
crossing  and  flow  through  a  deep  valley  towards  the  Teton.  Passed  over  many  steep  hills,  and 
the  country  to-day  is  more  hilly,  and  travelling  more  difficult  than  on  any  previous  day.  Soil 
69  / 


546  FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    LATITUDE    40°    30'. 

becoming  more  stony  and  sterile,  and  few  flowers  are  seen,  excepting  in  the  little  valleys  of  the 
numerous  spring-brooks,  where  there  are  rich  grass  and  many  flowers  ;  most  of  which,  how 
ever,  have  already  been  collected.  In  sixteen  miles  crossed  another  fine  creek,  sixteen  feet  wide, 
which  I  named  "Beaver-Dam  creek,"  on  account  of  the  numerous  beaver-dams  in  it.  In  three 
miles  more  we  saw  on  the  right  hand,  far  below  us  on  the  plain,  a  considerable  creek,  which 
empties  into  the  Teton  nine  miles  from  the  mountains.  There  is  no  timber  upon  its  banks,  which 
are  densely  overgrown  with  thickets  of  birch  and  willow  bushes.  In  twenty-one  and  a  half 
miles  struck  the  Teton  river,  which  here  runs  due  east.  The  river  spreads  into  several  channels, 
running  with  a  swift  and  shallow  current  through  a  level  plain  almost  destitute  of  grass,  the  soil 
of  which  is  composed  of  small  stones  and  gravel  as  in  the  river-bed.  There  is  but  little  timber, 
which  is  dwarf  cotton- wood  and  willow.  The  river  forks  just  above  our  camp,  and  enters  the 
mountains  through  narrow  gorges,  affording  no  valley  or  pass  whatever.  The  blue  peaks  of 
the  Highwood  mountains  were  visible  from  a  butte  near  camp,  and  I  took  bearings,  as  also  on 
Heart  mountain. 

May  20. — Morning  oppressively  warm.  The  country  we  are  passing  over  is  a  stony  plain, 
intersected  by  numerous  spring-brooks  running  through  deep,  narrow  valleys,  in  which  the  soil 
is  good.  Tracts  thickly  wooded  with  scrub-pine,  and  many  marshes  or  quagmires  in  the  valleys, 
rendered  travelling  slow  and  laborious.  Considerable  snow  was  seen  low  down  on  the  mount 
ains,  and  some  even  in  the  valleys.  Specimen  No.  66,  a  beautiful  bell-shaped  flower  of  a 
golden  yellow,  was  found  by  the  side  of  a  snow-bank  six  feet  deep.  Continued  a  course  along 
the  base  of  the  mountains,  which  now  trend  to  the  northwest,  are  more  detached,  and  descend  to 
the  plain  by  a  succession  of  hills  densely  timbered  with  pine  of  a  fair  size.  Many  of  the  peaks, 
however,  still  preserved  their  rugged  character,  having  perpendicular  rock  after  reaching  within 
three  hundred  feet  of  their  summits,  rendering  it  impossible  to  ascend  them  from  this  side.  In 
the  afternoon  the  Highwood  mountains  were  still  visible,  and  I  took  bearings.  The  "Three 
Buttes"  are  just  discernible  in  the  northeast.  Saw  two  grizzly  bears  digging  roots.  They  are 
very  poor  at  this  season,  and  their  skins  are  worthless.  These  bears  were  very  timid,  and  ran  off 
when  we  were  within  half  a  mile  of  them.  This  is  generally,  if  not  invariably,  the  case  with 
the  grizzly  bear  when  in  the  plains.  They  are  dangerous  only  when  wounded,  or  come  upon 
unexpectedly  in  a  thicket.  In  the  afternoon  crossed  many  small  brooks,  which  are  doubtless  the 
headwaters  of  Birch  river — a  large  fork  of  the  Marias  river — which  I  hoped  to  reach  to-night ; 
but  finding  it  impossible,  encamped  on  one  of  its  forks  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  peak  of  the  mountain. 
The  country  has  been  improving  for  the  last  fifteen  miles,  and  this  creek  runs  through  a  rich 
valley  wooded  with  small  poplars,  and  possessing  a  more  luxuriant  vegetation  than  I  have  yet 
seen.  Collected  seven  new  varieties  of  flowers.  Ascended  a  lofty  spur  of  the  mountain,  and 
found  its  summit  to  consist  of  granite  and  soft,  red  sandstone.  Had  a  heavy  thunder-storm  in 
the  evening  ;  previous  to  which  I  heard  a  noise  in  the  mountains  like  the  discharge  of  artillery, 
resembling  the  reports  and  explosions  mentioned  by  Lewis  and  Clark  and  others.  I  have  noticed 
this  phenomenon  several  times,  and  conclude  that  it  is  occasioned  by  distant  thunder-storms,  either 
in  the  mountains  or  beyond  the  dividing  ridge.  Made  to  day  21.3  miles. 

May  21. — Moved  early,  and,  after  passing  many  small  brooks  and  lakes,  or  ponds,  struck  Birch 
river  just  below  where  it  issues  from  the  mountain.  Three  miles  after  entering  the  defile,  the 
river  forks  in  two  streams  of  nearly  the  same  size.  There  is  probably  no  pass  here,  as  there  are 
no  signs  of  a  road  or  trail,  and  the  river  evidently  does  not  head  far  up  in  the  mountains,  which 
are  lofty  and  very  rugged,  and  then  slopes  densely  timbered  with  fir.  On  the  summit  of  a  high 
range  of  hills  next  the  river  I  collected  in  little  grassy  openings  among  the  pines,  eight  new 
flowers,  and  in  the  valley  four  more.  Each  specimen  has  been  carefully  numbered  and  labelled 
with  a  description  of  place  where  found,  color,  &c.  The  soil  here  is  rich,  and  the  country  gen 
erally  better  than  any  yet  passed  over.  Birch  river  is  timbered  with  cotton-wood,  willow,  and  a 
great  quantity  of  yellow  or  gray  birch,  from  which  it  takes  its  name.  This  is  the  largest  fork  of 


FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    LATITUDE    49°    30'.  54? 

Marias  river,  and  some  years  since  was  a  favorite  resort  for  the  Assiniboins  and  Crows,  who  con 
cealed  themselves  in  the  thickets  and  attacked  small  hunting  parlies  of  the  Blackfeet.  To-night 
we  have  no  fresh  meat,  and  there  is  only  sufficient  bacon  for  a  day  or  two. 

May  22. — Started  early,  hoping  to  reach  the  main  stream  of  Marias  river  to-day.  Road  hard 
for  the  odometer  wagon,  on  account  of  crossing  so  many  small  streams  bordered  by  thickets  of 
willow  and  small  poplar.  Passed  many  small  lakes  from  one  to  twenty  acres  in  extent,  clear  and 
deep.  In  fourteen  miles  came  to  Badger  creek,  a  rapid  stream  fifty  feet  wide,  and  ford  able  with 
difficulty.  This  is  also  a  fork  of  Marias  river.  In  three  miles  more  crossed  a  beautiful  little 
stream,  well  timbered  with  large  cotton- wood,  arid  I  name  it  "Cotton-wood  fork."  Continue  to 
pass  many  small  lakes.  The  country  is  now  becoming  rich  and  beautiful,  and  the  grasss  so  lux 
uriant  as  to  form  a  heavy  turf.  The  soil  is  dark  loam. 

Saw  three  elk  arid  a  doe  moose,  and  killed  her  fawn,  the  skin  of  which  I  preserved.  At  6  p.  m. 
reached  the  main  stream  of  Marias  river,  or,  as  it  is  called  by  the  Blackfeet,  Kay-i-you,  or  Bear  river. 
Character  of  the  stream  much  the  same  as  lower  down  near  Fort  Benton;  valley  narrow  and  at 
least  four  hundred  feet  below  the  plain,  which  is  intersected  by  tremendous  coulees  running  back 
a  mile  or  two  from  the  river.  Descending  a  very  steep  hill,  found  that  we  had  struck  the  river 
just  below  where  a  large  fork  comes  in  on  the  opposite  side.  The  river  is  high,  and  the  current 
very  swift.  After  selecting  the  best  place  to  ford  I  endeavored  to  cross,  but  my  horse  lost  his 
footing,  and  was  carried  down  stream  with  great  velocity.  It  was  impossible  to  turn  back,  and 
we  came  very  near  drowning,  but  finally  reached  the  opposite  shore  without  damage  save  the 
wetting  of  my  field  and  note  books. 

It  was  impossible  for  my  party  to  cross  in  the  present  stages  of  water,  and  I  determined  to  go 
higher  up  on  the  mountains.  It  was  necessary,  however,  to  return  to  my  party,  arid  I  accom 
plished  this  by  fastening  gun,  coat,  &c.,  on  my  horse,  and  driving  him  over,  when  I  swam 
across  myself.  Encamped  on  the  upper  end  of  the  point  among  a  few  willows,  there  being  no 
timber  here.  Had  a  heavy  thunder-storm  in  the  evening,  and  the  rain  fell  in  torrents.  Made 
to-day  22  miles. 

May  23. — Morning  cloudy  and  cold.  The  rain  of  last  night  raised  the  river  18  inches.  Pur 
sued  a  southwest  course  up  the  river,  passing  over  high  hills  and  through  fertile  valleys,  in  which 
were  many  small  lakes  and  groves  of  tall  pines.  In  six  and  a  half  miles  farther,  progress  up  the 
stream  was  prevented  by  dense  pine  woods,  An  old  Indian  trail  afforded  an  easy  road  to  the 
river ;  and,  descending  three  terraces  or  plateaux,  we  found  ourselves  on  a  level  with  the  water, 
in  a  bottom  of  some  thirty  acres  in  extent,  among  tall  cotton-wood  and  poplars,  of  a  scattering 
growth,  and  most  luxuriant  grass.  Wishing  to  determine  the  latitude  of  this  point  and  collect 
specimens,  I  shall  encamp  here  for  one  or  two  days.  Despatched  Monroe  to  hunt,  and  the  men 
to  fish,  and  went  myself  to  collect  specimens.  A  few  new  flowers  were  obtained,  but  the  majority 
of  those  seen  are  the  same  as  previously  collected.  No  game  was  killed,  but  the  men  caught 
several  dozen  of  fine  brook  trout,  many  of  them  being  eighteen  inches  in  length. 

May  24. — Morning  clear  and  warm.  The  Marias  river  comes  through  a  gap  in  the  mountains 
some  fifteen  miles  in  width.  The  country  is  hilly  and  densely  timbered  with  pine,  but  the  soil  is 
rich  even  on  the  highest  hills.  There  are,  however,  many  grassy  openings  or  small  prairies,  from 
one  to  ten  acres  in  extent.  From  a  peak  of  the  mountains  next  below  the  highest  range  I  ob 
tained  a  good  view  of  the  course  of  the  river,  and  found  that  it  runs  northeast,  whilst  Mr.  Tink- 
ham's  survey  makes  its  course  so^A-east.  His  description  and  topography  of  the  pass  and 
mountains  do  not  agree  with  the  reality,  and  it  would  certainly  seem  as  though  he  could  not 
have  passed  through  here.  Farther,  directly  up  the  main  stream,  is  impracticable;  but  this 
wide  depression,  and  no  mountains  to  be  seen  in  the  west,  would  seem  to  indicate  the  existence 
of  a  favorable  pass  on  some  one  of  its  branches. 

A  sextant  observation  at  noon  gives  for  the  latitude  of  our  camp  48°  20'  59",  which  ii  more. 


•548  IROM     FORT    BENTON    TO    LATITUDE    49      30'. 

than  twenty  miles  south  of  the  locution  given  this  river  by  Mr   Tinkham.     JNo  gnme  was  killed 
to- day,  hut  \ve  have  an  abundant  supply  of  trout. 

Mai/  2-3. — This  morning  found  that  the  horses  had  taken  a  stampede,  and  crossed  the  river  in 
the  night;  and,  as  none  of  my  men  can  swim,  I  am  compelled  to  cross  the  river  myself  and  bring 
them  back.  In  returning  they  evinced  much  sagacity  in  selecting  a  place  where  it  was  just  possible 
to  ford.  Packed  up,  crossed  safely,  and,  passing  over  a  high  level  prairie,  in  two  and  a  (juarler 
miles  were  brought  to  a  stand  by  the  large  fork  noticed  as  coming  in  at  our  first  camp  on  the 
Marias. 

This  stream  here,  and  below  to  its  mouth,  is  completely  hemmed  in  by  banks  of  perpendicular 
rock,  from  100  to  300  feet  in  height,  and  is,  at  this  stage  of  water,  swift  and  deep.  Found  it 
impossible  to  cross,  or  even  to  get  down  to  it  with  the  pack-animals.  I  therefore  directed  my 
men  to  encamp  at  a  small  lake  surrounded  by  groves  of  poplars,  while  I  took  Monroe  and  went 
up  the  river  to  find  a  ford.  Passing  through  dense  pine  woods  for  three  miles,  came  to  where 
this  branch  forks.  The  left-hand  fork  flows  through  a  tine  valley,  and  no  mountains  are  visible 
in  the  west.  This  is  the  proper  route  through  the  Marias  Pass,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  fact  that 
an  old  lodge  trail  passes  up  this  branch,  and  it  must  have  been  considerably  used  bv  the  Koote- 
naies  and  Flatheads  thirty  or  fifty  years  since.  This  spot  was  also  once  a  favorite  camping  and 
hunting  ground  of  the  Blackfeet;  but  they  seldom  visit  it  now — perhaps  no  more  than  a  dozen 
lodges  in  the  course  of  a  year,  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  elk  and  moose.  The  pass  is  seldom 
or  never  used  by  the  Blackfeet.  My  interpreter  informs  me  that  the  Indian  who  came  as  Mr. 
Tinkham's  guide  from  St.  Mary's  said,  that  after  reaching  Fort  Benton  they  came  through  the 
pass  at  Cut  Bank  river,  a  branch  of  the  Marias  twenty-five  miles  north  of  this,  and  thus  my 
conjectures  that  Mr.  T.  could  never  have  seen  the  Marias  Pass  are  confirmed. 

Moy  26. — Killed  two  geese  this  morning;  and  they  are  in  good  time,  as  we  are  destitute  of 
meat.  Passed  up  this  stream,  which  I  have  named  "Rocky  fork,"  and  crossed  it  just  above  a 
cascade  of  ten  feet.  Our  course  then  lay  over  a  rolling  prairie,  with  many  small  lakes  sur 
rounded  by  poplar  thickets.  Soil,  rich  loam.  Crossed  another  fine  creek,  and  in  seven  miles 
came  to  another  large  fork,  too  deep  to  ford  where  we  struck  it.  Travelled  up  the  stream, 
following  an  old  Indian  road  cut  out  through  a  dense  pine  forest,  which  led  to  a  tolerable  ford. 

At  \h.  40m.  p,  m.  there  was  a  total  eclipse  of  the  sun,  which  terminated  at  3h.  20m.  p.  m. 
Encamped  at  the  river  crossing. 

May  27. — Last  night  there  was  a  heavy  frost,  arid  the  morning  is  cold.  Our  course  lay  close 
to  the  base  of  the  mountains,  which  are  becoming  more  rugged  in  character,  loftier,  and  covered 
with  snow  three  hundred  feet  below  their  summits.  The  country  is  considerably  broken  by  high 
hills  and  narrow  valleys  of  spring-brooks  filled  with  thickets  of  poplar  and  willow,  and  flooded  by 
beaver  dams.  In  twelve  miles  came  to  a  fine  stream,  which  is  a  branch  of  Cut  Bank  river;  and 
in  sixteen  miles  reached  the  Cut  Bank  itself,  the  most  northerly  fork  of  Marias  river.  It  is  a 
rapid  stream,  fifty  feet  wide,  and  flows  through  a  rich  valley.  Its  banks  are  of  yellow  clay  and 
marl,  in  some  places  perpendicular,  but  generally  low  and  sloping.  Upon  the  headwaters  of 
this  stream  is  the  pass  through  which  Mr.  Tinkham  came  from  St.  Mary's,  and  his  report  renders 
any  further  examination  unnecessary.  A  broad  lodge  trail  leads  up  the  valley,  indicating  that 
the  pass  is  considerably  used — probably  by  the  Pend  d'Oreilles  and  Kootenaies,  who  come 
through  to  hunt  buffalo.  Crossed  at  a  good  ford  ;  pushed  on  over  a  range  of  high  hills,  and 
encamped  on  a  small  stream,  eight  miles  from  Cut  Bank  river,  and  which  is  no  doubt  one  of  the 
sources  of  Milk  river.  A  cold  northwest  wind  blew  violently  during  the  afternoon,  and  it.  is 
snowing  in  the  mountains. 

May  2S. — Morning  cold,  and  the  hills  are  white  with  snow.  The  country  is  quite  flat,  and  full 
of  springs  and  spring-brooks,  which  are  the  sources  of  Milk  river.  On  our  left  is  a  heavy  forest 
of  pine  timber  fifteen  miles  in  length,  and  extending  into  the  plain  eight  miles  from  the  base  of 
the  mountains.  Immediately  after  passing  this  point,  we  obtained  a  view  of  the  chief  of  King 


FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  LATITUDE  49°  30'.  549 

mountain,  which  is  a  bare  rocky  peak  of  a  square  form,  standing  at  a  distance  of  five  or  six  miles 
from  the  main  chain,  and  connected  with  it  by  a  high  ridge  wooded  with  pine.  In  seventeen 
miles  came  to  a  broad  valley,  the  sides  of  which  are  wooded  with  pine  and  poplar ;  arid  in  the 
bottom,  five  hundred  feet  below  us,  we  saw  the  blue  water  of  a  mountain  lake.  This  is  the 
well-known  Chief  Mountain  lake.  It  takes  its  name  from  the  Chief  mountain,  so  called  in  honor 
of  Mr.  Roan,  a  gentleman  who  has  been  many  years  in  charge  of  Edmonton  House,  a  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  post  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Saskatchawan  river.  Descending  into  the  valley,  in 
four  miles  we  reached  the  lake,  and  encamped  in  a  beautiful  prairie  bordering  it. 

May  29. — Moved  up  the  lake  three  miles  to  its  inlet,  and  encamped.  In  this  camp  we  remained 
until  June  5th,  having  been  so  unwell  during  that  time  as  to  be  unable  to  travel,  or  do  more  than 
make  short  explorations  and  observe  for  latitude. 

Chief  Mountain  Jake  is  seven  miles  long  by  one  broad.  Its  banks  are  low  and  shore  gravelly; 
the  water  clear  and  very  deep.  The  valley  of  the  lake  is  six  miles  in  breadth,  and  is  rolling- 
prairie,  interspersed  with  groves  of  cotton-wood  and  poplar,  and  in  the  low  places  the  birch  and 
willow.  The  soil  is  a  reddish  loam,  and  is  fertile,  as  is  indicated  by  the  luxuriant  vegetation. 
Pine  of  a  fair  siz^  and  thritiy  growth  is  abundant,  and  can  easily  be  obtained;  and  there  are 
inexhaustible  quarries  of  good  limestone. 

Connected  with  Chief  Mountain  lake  is  another,  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  and  extending 
nine  miles  into  the  mountains  in  the  form  of  a  bow,  and  I  therefore  called  it  "Bow  lake."  It  is 
shut  in  by  mountains  coming  close  down  to  the  water,  and  has  no  valley  susceptible  of  cultivation. 

The  mean  of  observations  for  latitude  gives  as  the  latitude  of  this,  the  south  end  of  Chief  Mountain 
lake,  48°  43'  07",  or  17  miles  south  of  the  boundary  line.  The  British  traders  on  the  Saskatcha- 
wan  have  always  contended  that  the  boundary  line  was  as  far  south  as  the  Marias  or  the  Cut 
Bank  river;  but  my  survey  shows  that  Chief  Mountain  lake  and  its  environs,  as  well  as  the  tract 
of  fertile  country  extending  south  to  the  Marias  Pass,  belong  to  the  United  States. 

Several  lodges  and  numerous  signs  of  Indians  were  seen  in  this  vicinity,  and  I  presume  they 
were  made  by  Kootenaies  who  come  here  stealthily  to  hunt.  It  was  at  first  supposed  that  there 
must  be  a  good  pass  in  this  vicinity,  but  a  close  examination  satisfied  me  that  such  is  not  the 
case. 

Numerous  little  streams  emptying  into  these  lakes  are  filled  with  beaver  dams  and  beaver, 
this  industrious  animal  having  been  left  in  quiet  possession  of  this  country  since  the  low  price  of 
its  fur  has  rendered  it  unprofitable  to  trap  them.  Elk,  moose,  and  deer  are  abundant,  and  salmon- 
trout  of  a  large  size  are  taken  in  the  lakes. 

June  5. — Started  due  north  along  the  lake  shore,  and  in  seven  miles  came  to  the  outlet  at  the 
extreme  northern  end.  The  outlet  is  called  in  the  Blackfoot  language  Mo-ko-un,  or  Belly  river. 
It  is  a  swift,  deep  stream,  where  it  comes  from  the  lake,  and  about  80  feet  wide,  and  its  course 
for  some  miles  is  due  north.  This  is  the  most  southerly  of  the  headwaters  of  the  Saskatchawan 
river.  After  receiving  the  waters  of  the  "Bad  Buck  Fat,"  the  Bear's  Pound,  and  the  Bull 
Pound  rivers,  it  empties  into  Bow  river,  which  joins  the  Red  Deer  or  Elk  river,  and  their 
junction  forms  the  south  branch  of  the  Saskalchawan.  The  valley  of  Mo-ko-un  river  is  here 
three  miles  in  width,  stony  and  sterile.  High  hills  bound  the  valley  on  either  side,  and  the 
country  generally  is  broken.  Passed  one  large  fork  rising  near  Chief  mountain. 

The  next  day  continued  down  the  stream  on  the  east  side,  passing  two  large  forks  coming  in 
on  the  north.  The  country  is  becoming  less  broken  and  the  soil  richer.  There  is  very  little 
timber  on  the  river,  and  it  is  principally  cotton-wood  and  poplar.  We  made  to-day  about  25 
miles,  and  encamped  where  the  wooded  points  cease. 

June  7. — Remained  in  camp  to  observe  for  latitude  and  explore  the  country.  In  riding  down 
the  river  15  miles,  found  no  timber,  and  there  seems  to  be  here  a  stretch  of  at  least  50  miles  des 
titute  of  wood.  Far  to  the  north  and  east  stretches  a  vast  plain,  or,  more  properly  speaking,  a 


550  FROM    FORT    BENTON    TO    LATITUDE    49°    30'. 

prairie  ;  for  in  richness  of  soil,  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  bright-colored  flowers,  it  greatly  resembles 
the  prairies  of  the  Western  States. 

On  the  8th  we  started  on  the  return  trip,  striking  for  the  Cut  Bank  river,  but  taking  a  course 
farther  from  the  mountains  than  when  coining  up.  Crossed  five  fine  creeks  which  are  the  sources 
of  Milk  river,  and  are  formed  by  the  spring-brooks  we  crossed  near  the  base  of  the  mountain. 
Noticed  several  ridges  of  soft  sandstone  in  the  plain,  running  for  several  miles  north  and  south, 
with  a  nearly  vertical  dip,  and  resembling  generally  the  roof  of  a  house.  Many  antelopes,  elk, 
and  deer  were  seen,  and  I  killed  enough  to  supply  my  party  with  meat. 

On  the  9th,  left  Cut  Bank  river  and  pursued  the  same  route  by  which  we  came  up,  this  being 
in  fact  the  only  route  where  the  stream  can  be  crossed  in  high  water.  Observed  to-day  great 
quantities  of  the  camash,  now  in  full  bloom.  It  is  a  beautiful  dark-blue  flower,  bell-shaped,  and 
growing  single  on  a  stem  ten  to  fifteen  inches  high.  The  camash  is  particularly  abundant  in  the 
vicinity  of  Marias  river,  near  the  mountain.  Crossed  Clear  fork,  Middle  fork,  and  Fall  fork,  and 
encamped  on  the  latter  at  the  Cascade. 

The  next  day  was  devoted  to  making  further  explorations  of  this  pass.  Following  the  old 
lodge  trail,  now  no  more  than  a  narrow  foot-path — although  the  decayed  stumps  and  trunks  of 
trees  clearlv  indicated  that  a  broad  road  had  once  been  cleared — in  two  miles  found  that  the 

«/ 

stream  forked :  keeping  the  left-hand  branch,  came  in  six  miles  to  where  it  forks  in  many  branches, 
all  heading  in  rugged  mountains  on  the  right  hand,  or  northwest.  Pursuing  from  this  point  a 
course  due  south,  magnetic,  or  south  19°  W.  true,  in  20  miles  struck  the  main  stream  of  Marias 
river,  which  is  still  a  considerable  stream,  running  in  a  defile  or  ravine  500  feet  in  width,  and 
having  banks  of  perpendicular  limestone  and  sandstone  rock ;  the  bed  of  the  stream  being  of  the 
same  material  in  huge  fragments,  and  breaking  the  water  into  a  continuous  rapid.  The  trail 
continues  up  the  river,  sometimes  over  hills  of  moderate  elevation,  densely  timbered  with  the 
narrow-leaved  pine,  and  at  others  through  small  openings  or  prairies  of  rich  soil,  producing  luxu 
riant  bunch-grass  and  a  great  variety  of  flowers.  At  a  distance  of  four  miles  more  I  ascended  a 
lofty  hill,  from  the  summit  of  which  I  obtained  a  commanding  view  of  the  pass  and  the  course  of 
the  river  for  a  long  distance  to  the  southwest. 

The  pass  continued  about  fifteen  miles  in  breadth  ;  the  country  hilly  and  densely  wooded  with 
pine.  The  mountains  on  either  hand  are  lofty  and  rugged,  showing  generally  perpendicular  rock 
from  within  300  feet  of  their  summits,  and  are  covered  with  snow  as  in  mid-winter.  Snow-banks 
were  also  found  on  the  north  side  of  many  hills  in  the  pass.  Up  the  pass  to  the  southwest  no 
mountains  obstruct  the  view;  and  I  am  satisfied  that  Mr.  Tinkham  could  not  have  passed  over 
this  trail,  or  he  would  not  pronounce  this  portion  of  the  pass  so  difficult  as  his  report  and  topo 
graphy  represent  it.  This  pass  is  not  vouched  for  as  a  good  railroad  or  pack-train  route,  yet  it 
is  believed  worthy  of  further  examination ;  and  I  only  regret  that  I  cannot  make  it,  as  your  instruc 
tions  require  me  to  be  at  Fort  Benton  in  the  last  days  of  this  month.  The  trail  which  I  followed 
continues  up  the  valley,  and  a  deserted  encampment  of  last  summer  indicates  that  this  pass  is 
occasionally  frequented  by  the  Flatheads  or  the  Kootenaies,  tor  the  purpose  of  hunting  elk  and 
deer,  which  are  numerous  here. 

The  day  had  been  oppressively  warm,  and  I  returned  to  camp  at  sundown  somewhat  fatigued 
with  a  ride  of  sixty  miles.  One  of  the  men  had  killed  a  deer,  and  we  made  a  luxurious  supper 
on  venison  and  coffee. 

June  11. — To-day  being  Sunday,  we  remained  in  camp.  The  sand-flies  and  mosquitoes  were 
very  numerous,  and  annoyed  our  animals  so  much  that  we  were  compelled  to  make  smokes  for  them. 
Collected  here  thirty-five  new  varieties  of  flowers,  and  noticed  a  plant  said  to  possess  remark 
able  qualities.  The  leaves  are  five  or  eight  in  number,  and  closely  resemble  the  leaf  of  the  pump 
kin  vine  in  shape  and  size.  The  stalk  rises  to  the  height  of  three  or  four  feet ;  is  cylindrical  and 
hollow.  This  stalk  is  eaten  by  the  Indians,  and  is  cooked  by  throwing  it  on  the  coals  for  a  few 
moments,  and  in  taste  slightly  resembles  cabbage  ;  in  fact,  the  French  and  half-breed  hunters 


30'.  551 

call  it  "  Des  Chou,"  or  cabbage.  The  roots  of  this  plant  are  made  into  a  poultice  and  applied 
in  cases  of  bruises  or  chronic  swellings,  and  are  said  to  be  very  efficacious.  From  a  description 
given  me  of  the  plant  when  at  maturity,  the  seeds  appear  to  be  contained  in  a  capsule,  oblong  in 
shape,  and  one  inch  in  length  ;  color,  black;  and  size,  that  of  the  seed  of  the  sweet  pea.  The 
seeds,  when  powdered,  are  used  by  the  North  Assiniboins  and  Cree  Indians  to  poison  bullets  and 
arrows,  and  it  is  said  that  any  animal  wounded  by  an  arrow  so  poisoned  will  die  within  an  hour. 
The  day  was  oppressively  warm  until  5  p.  m.,  when  it  commenced  raining,  and  continued 
until  9  p.  m. 

June  12. — Morning  clear  and  warm;  started  early,  and  passed  down  Fall  fork  to  Goose  lake; 
thence  to  Marias  river  at  our  former  ford,  where  we  crossed  without  difficulty;  thence,  fol 
lowing  an  old  Indian  road  that  must  have  been  cut  through  the  forest  at  the  time  the  Snake 
Indians  inhabited  this  country,  we  passed  over  and  along  the  first  ridge  of  the  mountain,  or  in  the 
plain  at  its  base.  Observed  during  the  day  many  small  lakes  and  spring-brooks.  The  soil  is 
excellent,  producing  an  abundance  of  good  grass  and  numberless  flowers.  The  mountains  here 
turned  southwest  and  northeast,  and,  where  terminating  on  the  plain,  they  seem  to  have  been  cut 
off  perpendicularly,  and  the  granite  and  limestone  composing  them  are  scattered  in  huge  fragments 
over  the  plains  at  their  base.  Pine  of  uniform  size  grows  upon  the  sides  of  these  ranges  as  far  up  as 
an  elevation  of  1,000  feet,  whence  to  their  summits  is  nought  save  naked  rocks  and  banks  of  snow. 
Passed  Badger  river  at  1  p.  m.  During  the  afternoon  there  were  several  showers  of  rain;  but 
pushing  on,  we  reached  Gray  Birch  river  at  half-past  6  p.  m.  Crossed  and  encamped,  having 
made  to-day  29  miles.  It  rained  heavily  during  the  night. 

June  13. — Morning  clear  and  warm.  We  made  an  early  start,  taking  a  course  farther  from  the 
mountains  than  where  we  came  up.  Crossed  during  the  day  three  fine  creeks  running  through 
rich  valleys,  but  destitute  of  wood.  The  country  is  now  a  vast  plain,  descending  towards  the 
east.  As  we  pushed  on,  the  soil  was  evidently  becoming  of  inferior  quality,  and  the  dry,  mullen- 
leaved  flowers  indicated  our  near  approach  to  the  high  dry  plain  extending  to  the  Missouri. 
There  were  heavy  showers  in  the  mountains  all  day.  Two  passed  near,  giving  us  a  few  drops  of 
rain  and  terrific  thunder  and  lightning.  In  24  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night  we  reached  the 
level  stony  valley  of  the  Teton  river,  and  soon  after  a  severe  storm  of  rain  and  hail  burst  upon 
us.  The  rain  fell  in  torrents,  and  the  plain  was  covered  with  water  to  the.  depth  of  four  inches. 
In  four  miles  more  we  struck  the  Teton,  and  crossed  it.  It  was  with  great  difficulty  we 
could  find  a  spot  on  which  to  encamp  not  overflowed  with  water;  but  at  last  pitched  the  tent 
upon  a  small  knoll  thickly  carpeted  with  Ura  Ursi,  or  the  smoking-weed.  The  timber  at  this 
point — principally  the  cotton-wood — has  all  been  killed  by  fire  ;  and  the  blackened  trunks  and 
dead  branches,  seen  through  the  driving  sleet  and  mist ;  the  tired  mules  crouching  here  and  there 
under  some  bush  to  avoid  the  pelting  hail;  ourselves  wet  completely;  the  difficulty  of  making  a 
fire ; — all  combined,  was  a  sufficiently  desolate  prospect  to  make  this  scene  the  most  cheerless 
encampment  of  the  whole  trip.  The  rain  ceased  at  10  p.  m.  Made  to-day  28  miles. 

June  14. — To-day  we  remained  in  camp  to  dry  the  packs  drenched  by  last  night's  rain.  Walk 
ing  down  the  river  a  few  miles,  I  collected  twenty-four  new  varieties  of  flowers.  The  land  is  of 
no  use  for  farming  purposes,  and  the  yearly  fire  will  soon  consume  every  stick  of  wood.  Three 
miles  below  our  encampment,  and  four  from  the  river,  is  a  hill  some  two  hundred  feet  high,  per 
fectly  resembling  a  woman's  breast;  and  it  is  from  this  hill,  which  can  be  seen  at  a  longdistance, 
that  the  name  of  this  river  is  derived,  the  Blackfeet  calling  it  Mone-e-kis,  or  Breast  river.  From 
the  hills  near  camp,  the  buttes  called  "the  Knees"  show  a  faint  outline  of  blue. 

June  15. — Started  early,  travelling  down  the  river,  which  pursues  a  very  sinuous  course, 
winding  from  side  to  side  of  a  broad  valley  bounded  by  low  hills.  There  having  been  no 
fires  here  for  several  years,  heavy  points  of  cotton-wood  are  seen  along  the  stream,  and  the 
grass  in  the  bottoms  is  luxuriant.  The  soil  appears  to  be  rich,  and  this  is  probably  a  good  locality 
for  farms.  Saw  numbers  of  deer  of  the  white-tailed  species,  and  one  of  the  men  killed  one. 


552  FROM  FORT  BENTON  TO  LATITUDE  49°  30'. 

Heavy  rains  have  fallen  here  lately,  and  rendered  the  ground  in  some  places  very  soft.  Passed 
two  considerable  forks  coming  in  on  the  opposite  or  north  side  of  the  river;  one  of  them  is  called 
the  Miry  fork,  and  differs  from  the  other  streams  in  this  region  in  having  a  muddy  bottom, 
rendering  it  very  difficult  to  ford.  At  2  p.  m.  crossed  a  large,  rapid,  gravel- bottomed  fork,  com 
ing  in  from  the  southwest,  which  must  be  formed  by  the  two  creeks  nearest  Sun  river,  crossed 
by  us  on  the  19th  May.  Collected  a  specimen  of  the  large  crimson-colored  prairie  lilly,  common 
to  the  western  prairies.  It  stood  alone,  and  after  a  careful  search  I  could  not  find  another. 
This  familiar  flower  reminded  me  forcibly  of  home.  Several  deer  were  killed  during  the  day, 
and  we  now  have  some  fresh  meat  to  carry  to  the  fort,  in  addition  to  four  bales  of  dried  meat, 
made  at  Chief  Mountain  lake. 

Noticed  to-day  the  first  prickly  pear  since  leaving  Sun  river,  on  May  19th.  None  of  this  plant 
is  found  along  the  mountains,  where  the  soil  is  fertile.  Thickets  of  the  black  cherry  and  service 
berry  bushes  were  seen  along  the  river,  and  their  fruit  has  now  attained  half  of  its  size  at 
maturity.  A  heavy  rain  coming  on,  we  encamped  early,  in  a  fine  point  of  timber,  having  made 
to-day  23  miles. 

June  16. — It  rained  all  night,  and  continues  this  morning.  The  river  valley  is  narrow,  and 
timber  scarce.  The  plain  above  the  valley  is  higher,  and  the  soil  of  poorer  quality.  In  eight 
miles  the  river  makes  a  great  bend  to  the  north,  and  we  made  a  cut-off,  crossing  several  bad 
coulees;  following  down  a  coulee,  struck  the  river  again  where  the  valley  widens,  and  there  is 
plenty  of  wood.  We  now  travel  in  the  bottoms,  crossing  the  points  of  the  hills  where  they  come 
to  the  river.  Grass  continues  luxuriant  in  the  bottoms,  and  the  whole  course  of  the  river  affords 
the  finest  grazing  ground.  We  encamped  early;  it  commenced  raining  soon  after,  and  continued 
until  sundown. 

June  17. — Continued  down  the  river ;  its  character  and  that  of  the  country  continuing  quite  the 
same  as  yesterday.  In  twenty  miles  reached  the  "  Big  Bend,"  where  the  river  makes  a  long 
detour  to  the  north.  Took  the  cut-off,  following  a  broad  lodge  trail,  over  a  high  table-land,  and 
in  six  miles  struck  the  river  again.  In  three  miles  more  we  encamped  in  a  fine  grove  of  timber, 
near  a  thicket  of  rose-bushes,  where  millions  of  their  blossoms  perfumed  the  air.  In  many  places 
the  plain  was  covered  with  the  large  and  beautiful  blossom  of  the  prickly  pear  ;  it  is  of  a  delicate 
straw-color,  veined  with  crimson  and  purple,  and  centre  of  deep  chocolate-color.  Also  noticed 
a  few  blossoms  of  the  small  round  pear,  which  grows  under  ground,  showing  no  more  than  the 
crown  and  blossom  above,  which  is  of  a  deep  scarlet  color,  of  the  size  and  form  of  the  scarlet 
geranium. 

June  18. — Morning  oppressively  warm.  Continued  down  the  river,  keeping  generally  on  the 
plain,  and  crossing  many  difficult  coulees,  rendering  the  road  fatiguing  to  the  animals.  Nothing 
occurred  during  the  day  worth  noting.  Struck  the  river  again  at  4  p.  m.,  and  encamped  in  a  fine 
point  of  timber,  opposite  the  buttes  called  "  the  Knees,"  and  distant  fifteen  miles. 

June  19. — Made  an  early  start,  taking  the  lodge  trail  leading  directly  to  Fort  Benton.  At  1  p. 
rn.  reached  camp  Dobbin,  and  at  3  p.  m.  came  in  sight  of  the  Missouri  river,  near  Forts  Benton 
and  Campbell,  with  a  number  of  Blackfeet  lodges  around  them,  and  multitudes  of  horses  grazing 
in  the  bottom.  The  Missouri,  now  full  nearly  to  the  level  of  its  banks,  appears  a  mighty  stream 
in  comparison  with  the  little  rivers  we  have  crossed.  Pushed  on,  and  were  soon  within  the  walls 
of  Fort  Benton,  and  received  a  warm  welcome  from  Mr.  Rose,  the  gentleman  in  charge. 

Found  all  well  at  the  fort,  and  the  government  horses  and  mules  in  fine  condition.  They  have 
had  nearly  a  famine  at  the  fort  since  we  left :  no  coffee,  tea,  sugar,  nor  flour ;  and  their  hunters 
having  been  too  lazy  to  procure  meat,  they  had  been  compelled  to  eat  dogs. 

Having  unpacked  the  mules,  turned  them  out  to  graze,  and  had  the  packs,  specimens,  &c.  safely 
stored,  I  retired  once  more  to  my  old  room,  and  after  an  absence  of  forty-one  days  in  the  plains 
and  mountains,  it  seemed  to  me  quite  like  home. 

The  general  results  of  this  reconnaissance  have  been,  a  thorough  exploration  of  the  country  from 


FROM   FORT    BENTON   TO   CANTONMENT   STEVENS.  553 

the  Missouri,  along  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  to  the  parallel  of  49°  30',  carrying  a  correct 
odometer  measurement  to  the  boundary  ;  discovering  the  sources  of  Sun  river,  Breast  river,  Marias 
river,  Milk  river,  and  their  branches,  and  also  Mo-ka-un  or  Belly  river  of  the  north,  and  their 
general  characteristics;  ascertaining  the  existence  of  a  large  body  of  agricultural  land,  and  proper 
localities  for  farms,  and  the  general  capabilities  of  the  country  for  settlement,  and  collecting  speci 
mens  in  geology,  natural  history,  and  botany.  Three  hundred  and  twenty  varieties  of  flowers — 
many  of  which,  it  is  believed,  are  new  to  the  botanist — were  collected  and  carefully  preserved, 
each  specimen  having  a  label  attached,  stating  place  where  found,  color,  &c.  The  barometrical 
observations  were  continued  as  far  as  Badger  river,  where  the  barometer  was,  most  unfortunately, 
broken,  thus  destroying  my  hopes  of  obtaining  a  correct  barometrical  profile  of  the  country. 

Some  knowledge  also  was  obtained  of  the  Marias  Pass,  showing  that  its  character  is  entirely 
different  from  what  had  been  previously  supposed. 

It  was  practically  demonstrated  that  a  party  of  four  white  men  can  travel  for  forty-one  days  in 
the  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  country,  without  losing  either  horses  or  scalps. 

And  finally,  by  odometer  measurement  and  sextant  observations,  it  is  believed   a  tolerably 
correct  map  has  been  made  of  a  country  hitherto  unexplored. 

All  of  which  is  respectfully  submitted;  and  I  have  the  honor  to  remain,  respectfully,  your  most 
obedient,  JAMES  DOTY. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Charge  of  N.  P.  Railroad  Survey. 


REPORT     OF    MR.    JAMES    DOTY,    OF     A    RECONNAISSANCE     FROM     FORT    BENTON    TO    CANTONMENT 
STEVENS,    AND    OF    A    SURVEY   FROM    FORT  BENTON    TO    OLYMPIA. 

OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  January  1,  1855. 

SIR:  Having  submitted  to  you  reports  upon  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  the  navigability  of  the  Mis- 
souri,  and  a  reconnaissance  from  Fort  Benton  to  the  parallel  of  49°  30'  N.,  I  now  have  the  honor 
to  submit  a  brief  report  of  a  reconnaissance  to  Cantonment  Stevens  in  July  last,  and  of  my 
survey  from  Fort  Benton  to  Olympia,  in  September  and  October. 

After  returning  from  my  northern  tour  on  the  19th  June,  I  remained  at  my  post  until  July  8. 
On  the  4th  of  July  an  express  arrived  from  Lieutenant  Mullan,  bringing  me  your  letters  of  April 
1,  directing  me  to  remain  at  Fort  Benton  until  further  orders.  Deeming  it  my  duty  in  the  mean 
time  to  make  all  the  explorations  in  my  power,  I  determined  to  visit  Lieutenant  Mullan  in  the 
Bitter  Root  valley;  and  accordingly,  on  July  8,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Burr,  who  had  brought  the 
express,  and  two  of  my  men,  I  left  Fort  Benton ;  and  passing  over  the  usual  route,  encamped  at 
the  Great  falls  of  the  Missouri.  Thence  to  within  ten  miles  of  the  divide  of  the  Rocky  mount 
ains,  our  route  was  the  same  as  that  of  the  main  train  in  September,  1853.  At  this  point  our 
course,  which  had  been  nearly  south,  turned  due  west,  and,  following  up  the  valley  of  a  small 
creek  now  dry,  by  a  well-worn  Indian  trail,  in  eleven  miles  crossed  the  divide,  which  is  merely 
a  hill  about  five  hundred  feet  high,  and  fell  upon  the  waters  of  the  Columbia;  continued  down 
this  creek  a  short  distance,  when,  leaving  it  to  our  left,  crossed  a  tract  of  rolling  prairie  and  pine 
openings,  and  entered  a  beautiful  prairie  bordering  a  large  creek,  which  is  supposed  to  be  the 
main  stream  of  the  Blackfoot  fork,  and  down  which  we  travelled.  At  the  end  of  the  prairie 
struck  the  trail  of  the  main  train,  and,  following  it,  encamped  at  the  crossing  of  the  river. 

July  12. — Continued  down  the  river,  meeting  nothing  worthy  of  notice,  and  encamped  at  the 
crossing  of  Salmon  Trout  river,  near  its  junction  with  the  Blackfoot. 

July  1 3. — Followed  the  main  trail  for  15  miles,  when,  leaving  it,  took  the  Camash  Prairie  cut-off. 

The  trail  turns  to  the  south,  and  in  six  miles  crosses  the  Blackfoot,  and,  passing  through  open  pine 

woods  for  five  miles,  comes  out  upon  a  beautiful  prairie,  having  a  rich  soil  of  black  loam,  and 

covered  with  luxuriant  grass.     The  prairie,  which  is  about  four  by  ten  miles  in  extent,  is  the 

TO/ 


554  FROM    CANTONMENT   STEVENS   TO    OLYMPIA. 

Camash  prairie  of  the  Flatheads;  and  here  they  resort  in  early  summer  to  dig  their  favorite  root, 
which  is  produced  in  the  greatest  abundance.  Crossing  the  prairie,  and  passing  through  some 
scattering  pines,  reached  a  small  prairie,  through  which  ran  a  spring-brook,  and  here  we  en 
camped. 

July  14. — Passing  through  pines  of  a  large  size  and  scattering  growth,  at  3.  p.  m.  struck  the 
Blackfoot  again,  and  crossed  at  a  shallow  ford.  This  cut-off  which  we  have  made  affords  a  very 
go  )d  road,  and  is  said  to  avoid  some  very  bad  side-hill  travelling  on  the  main  trail  along  the 
Blackfoot.  At  4  p.  m.  passed  the  junction  of  the  Blackfoot  with  the  Hell  Gate;  and  at  6  p.  m. 
crossed  the  Hell  Gate  at  its  upper  ford  in  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  and  encamped. 

July  15. — Started  very  early,  and,  passing  up  the  Bitter  Root  river  by  the  high-water  trail, 
leading  in  some  places  along  a  very  steep  side-hill  road,  at  2  p.  m.  reached  Fort  Owen,  a 
trading  post  owned  by  Mr.  John  Owen,  who  had  started  for  Oregon  yesterday.  Pushed  on  up  the 
valley  over  an  excellent  road,  and  at  4  p.  m.  reached  Cantonment  Stevens,  where  I  received 
a  most  cordial  welcome  from  Lieutenant  Mullan.  We  were  not  sorry  to  find  so  comfortable 
a  resting-place,  after  travelling  256  miles  in  eight  days  across  the  mountains. 

July  16,  17,  18,  19,  and  20. — Remained  at  the  Cantonment,  enjoying  myself  much  in  the  society 
of  Messrs.  Mullan  and  Burr,  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  five  of  the  pleasantest  days  I  have  passed 
since  leaving  the  Mississippi  river.  This  beautiful  valley  seems  almost  a  Paradise,  in  its  strong 
contrast  with  the  brown  and  desolate  plains  to  which  my  eye  has  been  so  long  accustomed.  Its 
hills,  meadows,  and  woods,  clothed  in  the  vivid  green  of  midsummer,  kept  ever  fresh  and  ver 
dant  by  timely  showers  and  mountain  dews,  and  watered  by  the  clear  mountain  stream  rushing 
through  the  valley,  were  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  made  it  indeed  a  charming  spot  to  look  upon. 

A  particular  description  of  this  valley  is  not  deemed  necessary,  as  Lieutenant  Mullan  will  report 
fully  thereon;  but  it  is  proper  to  remark  that,  in  my  opinion,  this  is  a  most  excellent  locality  for 
farms  and  for  grazing.  Its  rich  soil,  luxuriant  grass,  and  abundance  of  wood,  water,  timber,  and 
stone,  render  it  in  all  respects  a  desirable  location,  and  when  brought  fully  to  the  notice  of  emi 
grants,  will  no  doubt  be  speedily  populated. 

From  Lieutenant  Mullan,  although  his  supplies  were  limited,  rations  were  obtained  for  my 
party  till  September  1,  and  I  take  this  opportunity  of  expressing  my  appreciation  of  his  kindness. 

July  21. — Moved  from  the  Cantonment,  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and  encamped  at 
the  Cold  spring,  six  miles  from  the  upper  crossing  of  Hell  Gate.  Here  a  portion  of  the  Flat- 
heads  were  encamped ;  but  there  being  no  interpreter,  a  "talk"  was  not  held  with  them. 

July  22. — Moved  early,  crossing  Hell  Gate  at  our  former  ford,  and  the  Big  Blackfoot  near  its 
mouth,  and  followed  up  the  Hell  Gate  by  Lieutenant  Mullan's  wagon  route.  The  valley  of  the 
river  is  narrow,  and  somewhat  thickly  timbered  with  cotton-wood,  willow,  and  pine,  but  by  occa 
sionally  crossing  the  stream,  a  good  wagon  road  is  found  at  low  water.  The  high-water  trail 
along  the  side-hill  is  not  so  favorable  for  a  pack-train  as  that  on  the  Big  Blackfoot.  In  the  after 
noon  we  overtook  a  party  of  thirty  Blackfeet,  men,  women,  and  children,  who  were  returning 
from  a  visit  to  the  Flatheads.  They  expressed  a  desire  to  join  my  party,  and  accordingly  we 
travelled  on  in  company.  The  road  during  the  clay  continued  good,  and  we  encamped  at  sun 
down  in  a  fine  meadow  on  the  main  stream,  at  the  fifth  crossing,  and  estimated  thirty-five  miles 
from  the  Cold  spring.  Just  as  we  encamped,  Gabrielle,  Lieutenant  Mullan's  interpreter,  and 
twenty  Flatheads,  rode  up,  bringing  me  a  note  from  Lieutenant  M.,  saying  that  seven  horses 
had  been  stolen  from  the  Flathead  camp,  and  these  Indians  were  in  pursuit  of  them;  he  wished 
me  to  do  all  in  my  power  to  recover  them.  Gabrielle  and  the  Indians,  instead  of  pushing  on,  as 
they  should  have  done,  encamped  near  us,  and  passed  the  night  in  gambling. 

July  23. — Morning  clear  and  warm.  Gabrielle  and  the  Indians,  who  had  gambled  all  night, 
slept  late,  and  they  were  still  at  the  camp  when  we  left.  Continued  up  the  river,  making  seven 
crossings,  and  avoiding  two  by  taking  the  side- hill.  Alter  crossing  three  small  creeks,  came  to 


FROM   CANTONMENT    STEVENS   TO   OLYMPIA.  555 

another;  when,  leaving  the  Hell  Gate,  we  followed  up  this   small  stream,  and  halted  at  noon  at 
the  foot  of  the  divide  between  Flint  creek  and  the  Hell  Gate. 

This  divide  is  mainly  a  high-rolling  prairie,  the  hills  attaining  an  elevation  of  300  to  500  feet, 
and  the  ascent  is  so  gradual  as  to  afford  a  first-rate  wagon  road,  and  the  descent  is  the  same. 
Soon  after  reaching  'the  foot  of  the  divide,  we  crossed  Flint  creek,  a  considerable  fork  of  the  Hell 
Gate,  and  encamped  soon  after  striking  the  river  again. 

July  24. — Continued  up  the  river  through  a  fine  broad  valley,  affording  luxuriant  grass,  and  an 
abundance  of  wood  along  the  river.  Crossed  the  stream  once,  and  avoided  the  remaining  cross 
ings  by  taking  the  side-hill  trail.  The  valley  still  affords  a  good  wagon  road.  About  noon 
reached  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Blackfoot,  up  which  stream  we  turned  our  course,  leaving  the 
Hell  Gate  on  our  right,  and  encamped  at  sundown  on  the  Little  Blackfoot,  four  miles  above 
Lieutenant  Mullan's  camp  of  March  25. 

July  25. — Continued  up  the  river,  on  a  course  nearly  due  west,  ten  miles,  then  northwest  four 
miles ;  when  we  left  the  stream,  and  passing  over  a  fine  prairie,  course  due  west,  in  four  miles 
reached  the  summit  of  the  divide.  The  ascent  is  very  gradual,  and  affords  a  capital  wagon  road. 
The  descent  was  steep,  but  we  had  mistaken  the  trail,  and  two  miles  north  of  this  there  is  a  good 
road. 

Following  generally  the  route  taken  by  Lieut.  Mullan,  crossed  three  small  creeks,  and  en 
camped  on  the  north  branch  of  Prickly  Pear  creek,  having  found  a  good  wagon  road  to  this  point. 

July  26. — Continued  on  a  course  nearly  north,  and  in  four  miles  struck  another  creek,  travelled 
down  three  miles,  and  struck  Small  Prickly  Pear  creek ;  leaving  this,  and  passing  over  a  hilly 
country,  sparsely  timbered  with  pine,  and  somewhat  difficult  for  wagons,  struck  a  fine  prairie, 
through  which  passes  a  broad,  large  trail  leading  towards  the  Missouri.  Crossing  this  prairie  we 
struck  another  creek,  and  then  passed  across  a  high  hilly  country  to  a  mountainous  ridge,  through 
which  we  took  the  pass  called  by  the  Blackfeet  Nah-too-see-o-ko-toke,  or  Medicine  Rock  Pass. 
Thence  the  trail  passed  over  high  hills  composed  of  loose  decomposed  slate  and  sandstone, 
and  making  a  somewhat  difficult  road.  In  ten  miles  from  the  Medicine  Rock  we  reached  a  fine 
bold  creek  twenty  feet  wide,  called  by  the  Blackfeet  Assiniboin  river,  from  the  circumstance  that 
several  Assiniboiris  were  killed  here  several  years  since.  Its  valley  is  narrow,  but  affords  a 
tolerable  road.  Two  miles  above  where  we  struck  it,  the  river  forks.  Took  the  southern  branch, 
and  passing  up  three  miles,  encamped,  having  made  30  miles. 

July  27. — Here  we  left  this  stream,  taking  a  course  due  north,  and  in  three  miles  crossed 
another  creek,  and  following  down  one  mile,  came  to  a  broad  plain  stretching  towards  the  Mis 
souri.  Passing  over  a  high  prairie-ridge  bounding  the  plain  on  the  north,  in  four  miles  more 
struck  a  small  branch  of  Dearborn  river,  now  nearly  dry,  and  in  eight  miles  more  came  to  Dearborn 
river  itself.  Here  we  nooned.  The  day  was  oppressively  warm,  as  indeed  have  been  all  the 
days  since  we  left  Fort  Benton.  Continued  on  over  a  rolling  prairie,  crossed  Beaver  creek, 
passed  between  the  three  peaks,  and  encamped  after  sundown  on  Crown  Butte  creek,  near  Bird 
Tail  Rock,  having  made  a  fatiguing  day's  march  of  forty  miles.  We  are  now  in  the  trail  of  the 
main  train,  and  of  course  there  is  a  good  road  to  Fort  Benton. 

Lieutenant  Mullan's  wagon  route  from  this  point  to  the  St.  Mary's  valley  is  practicable,  in  my 
opinion,  for  wagons  moderately  loaded,  and,  with  a  small  expenditure  of  labor,  may  be  made  an 
excellent  road. 

July  28. — Continued  on  over  the  same  trail  by  which  we  came,  and  therefore  it  needs  no  de 
scription. 

In  climbing  to  the  top  of  the  butte  called  Crown  Butte,  I  fell,  and  bruised  my  hand  so  badly 
as  to  deprive  me  of  its  use. 

Pushed  on,  crossed  Sun  river,  and  encamped  five  miles  below. 

The  next  day  my  hand  and  arm  were  very  much  swollen,  and  so  painful  that  I  could  scarcely 
ride.  However,  we  reached  the  falls,  and  pitched  the  tent  in  our  old  encamping  ground. 


556  FROM    CANTONMENT   STEVENS   TO   OLYMPIA. 


30.  —  At  an  early  hour  we  pushed  on  for  Fort  Benton,  where  we  arrived  at  2  p.  m.,  termi 
nating  a  reconnaissance  of  552  miles  in  seventeen  travelling  days,  crossing  the  mountains  twice. 
In  fact,  not  a  day  was  lost  on  the  march,  the  only  delay  being  five  days  at  Cantonment  Stevens. 

The  government  property  at  the  fort  was  found  to  be  all  safe  and  in  good  order. 

From  this  time  until  August  16,  my  hand  continued  so  lame  as  to  prevent  me  from  writing  a 
word.  On  that  day  I  started  down  the  Missouri  to  make  an  exploration,  and  meet  the  American 
Fur  Company's  boats. 

Upon  this  reconnaissance  I  have  already  had  the  honor  to  report,  under  date  of  December. 

On  the  day  of  my  return  to  my  post,  Mr.  Burr  arrived  there  with  an  express  from  Lieutenant 
Mullan,  bringing  me  your  instructions  of  June  2,  1854,  directing  me  to  proceed  to  Olympia,  Puget 
sound,  by  way  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass,  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  Cceur  d'  Alene  mission,  Wallah- 
Wallah,  and  the  Snoqualme  Pass. 

In  accordance  with  your  instructions,  receipts  in  duplicate  were  taken  from  the  American  Fur 
Company  for  all  the  government  property  in  my  charge  which  it  was  necessary  to  leave  at  Fort 
Benton  —  the  property  having  previously  been  securely  stored. 

By  your  directions,  the  standard  barometers,  thermometers,  and  hygrometers  were  left  at  the 
post;  and  Mr.  J.  C.  Tevis,  a  gentleman  from  St.  Louis,  coming  up  in  the  American  Fur  Com 
pany's  boats,  to  spend  the  winter  at  Fort  Benlon,  was  solicited  by  -  to  take  charge  of  the 
observations;  and  I  have  no  doubt  he  will  take  pleasure  in  complying  with  the  request. 

On  Thursday,  September  7,  although  a  slight  rain  was  falling,  and  there  was  every  appear 
ance  of  bad  weather,  we  packed  up,  and  made  every  preparation  to  start,  taking,  by  your  direc 
tions,  only  such  articles  as  would  be  necessary  in  making  the  reconnaissance  to  Olympia. 

All  the  government  horses  and  mules,  and  two  yoke  of  oxen,  for  the  use  of  the  special  agent  in 
the  Bitter  Root  valley,  were  included  in  my  train. 

At  11  a.  m.  we  left  Fort  Benton,  taking  a  course  up  the  Teton  river,  proceeding  very  slowly, 
on  account  of  the  oxen,  which  were  so  fat  as  to  be  scarcely  able  to  travel.  About  sundown, 
when  we  had  made  fourteen  miles,  one  of  the  oxen  was  reported  as  unable  to  proceed  farther, 
and  I  ordered  one  of  the  men  to  return  with  him  to  Fort  Benton,  and  bring  another  ox  in  his 
place. 

When  we  had  proceeded  some  two  miles  more  another  ox  gave  out,  and  it  was  plain  that  the 
animals  were  too  heavy  with  fat  to  endure  the  trip  across  the  mountains,  and  I  was  reluctantly 
compelled  to  send  them  back  to  the  fort,  taking  receipts  for  them  from  Mr.  Alexander  Rose,  the 
gentleman  in  charge  of  the  American  Fur  Company's  establishment.  At  dark  we  encamped  on 
the  Teton,  twenty  miles  from  Fort  Benton.  My  guide,  a  Blackfoot  Indian,  left  my  party  to-day, 
and  returned  to  his  camp,  and  I  was  compelled  to  send  for  another. 

The  next  morning,  September  8,  we  continued  up  the  river,  over  the  same  route  explored  by  me 
on  the  17th,  18th,  and  19th  of  June.  The  two  barometers  which  I  have  taken  for  field-work  are, 
unfortunately,  unreliable.  One  is  a  syphon,  with  the  attached  thermometer  broken,  and  the  other 
a  closed  cistern,  which  cannot  be  packed  sufficiently  tight  to  prevent  it  from  leaking.  I  shall, 
however,  take  observations  with  both  instruments,  until  it  is  proved  that  they  are  worthless. 
Made  to-day  20  miles. 

September  9.  —  Continued  up  the  river,  following  an  old  lodge  trail  which  crossed  the  stream 
frequently.  Fire  has  lately  passed  over  the  country,  and  it  is  difficult  to  find  an  encamping 
ground  affording  sufficient  grass  for  the  animals.  At  4  p.  m.  we  reached  a  point  where  there 
is  no  timber  on  the  river  for  fifteen  miles  in  advance,  and  here  we  encamped,  having  made 
only  20  miles.  A  cold  rain  commenced  from  the  northeast  at  sundown,  and  continued  until 
10  p.  m. 

September  10.  —  It  is  raining  heavily  this  morning,  with  a  northeast  wind.  A  horse  and  a  mule 
strayed  in  the  night,  and  could  not  be  found  until  afternoon. 

A  very  vicious  mule,  which  the  men  were  endeavoring  to  pack,  threw  itself,  while  tied  to  a 


FROM   CANTONMENT    STEVENS   TO   OLYMPIA.  557 

tree,  and  broke  its  neck.  It  was  almost  a  worthless  animal,  being  so  vicious  that  it  had  never 
been  packed.  We  started  in  the  rain ;  and  it  being  too  late  to  make  the  crossing  to  Sun  river, 
we  continued  up  the  Teton,  and  encamped,  at  5  p.  m.,  at  the  commencement  of  the  great 
northern  bend  of  the  river.  Mr.  Burr,  who  left  the  train  in  the  afternoon  to  hunt,  did  not  over 
take  us,  and  we  fired  signal-guns  during  the  night,  to  guide  him  to  our  encampment. 

September  11. — Mr.  Burr  did  not  reach  camp  last  night;  and  becoming  anxious  for  fear  some 
accident  might  have  befallen  him,  I  started  early  to  look  for  him,  and  also  sending  out  the  guide. 

I  returned  just  as  the  train  was  ready  to  start,  and  was  much  gratified  to  find  Mr.  Burr  at  the 
camp.  He  had  lost  sight  of  the  party,  and  being  unable  to  find  the  trail,  had  passed  the  night 
on  the  plains. 

Taking  a  course  S.  20°  W.,  we  passed  over  a  rolling  prairie,  rising  gradually  towards  Sun 
river,  which  we  reached  at  2  p.  m.,  and  crossed  just  below  the  forks,  and  six  miles  above  where 
Mr.  F.  W.  Lander  crossed.  From  here  our  course  was  due  south,  taking  us,  in  twelve  miles,  to 
the  summit  of  the  dividing  ridge  between  Dearborn  and  Sun  rivers.  Pushing  on  at  a  rapid  rate, 
we  reached  Dearborn  river,  near  its  debouche  from  the  mountains,  at  dark.  Our  camp  is  eight 
miles  above  the  encampment  of  the  main  train  September  21,  1853.  And  here  the  river  valley 
is  harrow,  and  bounded  by  lofty  hills,  showing  generally  towards  the  river  a  formation  of  perpen 
dicular  sand  and  limestone  rock.  We  succeeded,  after  some  difficulty,  in  getting  down  to  the 
river,  and  found  a  good  encamping  ground.  The  country  from  Sun  river  to  this  point,  a  distance  of 
twenty -four  miles,  is  not  favorable  for  a  railroad.  The  highest  points  are  about  1,500  feet  above 
the  valley  of  Sun  river;  and  the  numerous  ravines  and  narrow  valleys  heading  in  the  mountains 
and  extending  some  distance  into  the  plain,  all  of  which  must  be  crossed,  render  the  route  far 
less  favorable  for  a  road  than  that  taken  by  the  main  train — crossing  Sun  river  near  the  Big  Knee, 
and  passing  between  that  and  Crown  Butte — and  which,  in  my  opinion,  is  superior  to  any  other 
route  examined. 

A  route  may  be  found  passing  north  of  the  Big  Knee  or  Sun  river,  and  striking  Dearborn  river 
a  few  miles  below  our  present  camp.  This  would  be  the  route  in  case  it  was  thought  necessary 
to  locate  the  road  some  distance  north  of  Fort  Benton,  crossing  Marias  river  above  the  butte 
called  the  Goose's  Nose.  But  it  will  be  observed  that  the  slight  advantage  gained  in  distance 
will  not  counterbalance  the  important  advantage  to  be  gained  by  adopting  a  line  located  very 
nearly  upon  the  route  of  the  main  train.  These  are,  first,  that  it  connects  with  the  head  of 
navigation,  at  or  near  Forts  Benton  and  Campbell,  of  the  Missouri  river,  upon  which  materials 
for  the  construction  of  the  road,  and  supplies,  will  necessarily  be  transported ;.  secondly,  it  will 
be  seen  by  a  glance  at  the  map,  herewith  submitted,  that,  adopting  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass  of 
the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  touching  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Missouri,  and 
passing  as  near  as  practicable  to  the  northern  bend  of  the  Missouri,  immediately  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Bear  or  Marias  river,  this  is  the  shortest  route  ;  and,  third,  the  nature  of  the  country 
is  such,  that  the  difference  in  the  cost  of  construction  will  more  than  counterbalance  the  extra 
distance  to  be  travelled. 

September  12. — Morning  clear  and  cold,  with  a  heavy  frost.  We  started  early,  and  held  a 
course  due  south,  along  the  base  of  the  mountains,  for  eight  miles,  passing  over  a  broken  country 
similar  to  that  described  yesterday.  The  broad  trail  leading  through  Lewis  and  Clark's  Pass 
had  turned  nearly  due  west,  passing  up  a  small  creek,  by  a  very  gradual  ascent,  for  one  mile; 
then  over  a  prairie  of  somewhat  steeper  slopes  for  half  a  mile,  which  brings  us  to  the  foot  of  the 
divide.  This  is  a  hill  of  steep  ascent,  of  five  hundred  feet  in  elevation,  sparsely  wooded  with 
scrub-pines. 

The  descent  is  for  half  a  mile  over  a  fine  prairie  slope,  to  the  valley  of  a  small  creek,  which 
is  one  of  the  headwaters  of  the  Columbia  river.  The  approach  to  this  divide  is  very  favorable 
for  a  railroad,  and  to  pass  the  summit-level  and  connect  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  with  those  of 
the  Columbia  will  require  a  tunnel  not  exceeding  one  mile  in  length.  The  course  from  the  sum- 


558  FROM    CANTONMENT   STEVENS    TO    OLYMPIA. 

mit  is  west  one  mile  to  the  small  creek  before  mentioned,  and  then  nearly  south,  down  the  valley 
eight  miles,  over  a  fine  road,  descending  very  gradually.  This  valley  is  a  prairie  from  a  quarter 
to  half  a  mile  wide,  and  wooded  with  open  pines  in  small  groves.  Leaving  this  creek,  the 
course  is  southwest,  over  a  country  thinly  wooded  with  pines  of  a  fair  growth  for  three  miles,  to 
a  fine  prairie  of  a  hundred  acres  in  extent,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  beautiful  small  lake. 
Thence  two  miles  through  pine  openings,  when  we  reached  a  fine  prairie,  bordering  a  consid 
erable  fork  of  the  Big  Blackfoot,  upon  which  stream  we  encamped,  having  made  twenty-five 
miles  from  our  encampment  on  Dearborn  river.  A  very  cold  rain  commenced  at  9  a.  m.  this 
morning,  and  continued  all  day,  rendering  travelling  very  disagreeable.  The  night  was  too 
cloudy  to  observe  for  latitude. 

September  13. — It  was  still  raining  heavily  this  morning,  and  upon  some  of  the  most  elevated 
mountains  snow  fell  during  the  night.  At  9  a.  m.  we  started  down  this  fork,  passing  through  a 
beautiful  prairie  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  in  four  miles  struck  the  trail  of  the  main  train,  which 
comes  in  on  a  course  north  65°  30'  east;  and  in  half  a  mile  farther  crossed  the  stream  I  have 
named  "Lander's  fork,"  and  which  I  suppose  to  be  the  main  fork  of  the  Big  Blackfoot  river.  After 
crossing,  the  trail  continues  down  the  river  on  a  course  south  68°  30'  west. 

As,  according  to  your  instructions,  my  route  from  this  point  will  be  that  taken  by  the  main 
train,  of  which  an  accurate  survey  has  already  been  made,  it  is  not  deemed  necessary  to  run  a 
compass  line  between  this  and  the  St.  Mary's  valley.  We  pushed  on  rapidly,  and  encamped  at 
the  edge  of  the  large  rolling  prairie,  a  few  rods  below  the  encampment  of  the  main  train  Sep 
tember  24  and  25,  1853. 

September  14. — Last  night  was  very  cold,  with  a  heavy  frost,  and  ice  made  in  a  bucket  of 
water  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Passing  over  the  high  prairie,  we  obtained  a  good  view  of  the 
valley  of  the  Blackfoot,  which  is  here  some  fifteen  miles  broad.  The  soil  is  good,  timber  is 
abundant,  and  I  should  think  this  a  good  locality  for  farms.  The  road  during  the  day  continued 
good,  passing  over  prairies  and  through  open  pine  woods.  At  6  p.  m.  we  encamped,  having 
made  to-day  30  miles. 

September  15  and  16. — Continued  on,  and  reached  within  five  miles  of  Fort  Owen.  The  next 
day,  directing  the  men  to  come  on  slowly  with  the  train,  I  started  early  for  Cantonment  Stevens, 
and  reached  it  at  1  p.  m.,  and  was  welcomed  by  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and  also  Mr.  Adams,  who 
came  up  from  Olympia  ten  days  since.  Mr.  Burr  has  concluded  to  remain  in  the  employ  of  Mr. 
Adams,  special  Indian  agent,  during  the  winter. 

September  \.Sth  was  devoted  to  receiving  and  packing  up  sixty  days'  rations  received  from 
Lieutenant  Mullan,  exchanging  receipts  for  animals,  &c.,  and  conferring  upon  the  proper  route 
to  be  taken  in  carrying  in  our  parties. 

In  conformity  with  your  instructions,  it  was  my  duty  to  proceed  by  the  Cceur  d'Alene  mission, 
and  Lieutenant  Mullan  determined  to  take  a  new  route  by  the  Lo-Lo  fork,  it  being  understood 
that  our  parties  should  rendezvous  at  Wallah-Wallah.  I  employed  as  guide  a  Spokane  Indian 
who  had  come  up  with  Mr.  Adams  from  Wallah- Wall  ah. 

September  19. — Left  Cantonment  Stevens,  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Mullan.  At  Fort  Owen, 
twelve  miles  from  the  Cantonment,  we  separated  our  band  of  animals,  and  Lieutenant  Mullan 
pushed  on  and  encamped  beyond  the  first  crossing  of  the  St.  Mary's  river,  while  I  encamped  four 
miles  this  side. 

September  20. — Started  early,  and  at  9  o'clock  passed  Lieutenant  Mullan's  camp.  He  will  be 
delayed  a  day  or  two  by  the  loss  of  yesterday  of  a  pack-mule,  with  his  tent  and  mess  equipage. 
Continuing  down  the  St.  Mary's,  crossed  Hell  Gate,  and,  passing  over  a  rolling  prairie,  encamped 
on  the  St.  Mary's  nine  miles  below,  having  made  35  miles. 

September  21. — This  morning  the  fog  was  so  dense  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  see  in  any 
direction  fifty  yards,  and  in  consequence  the  horses  could  not  be  found  until  a  late  hour.  Con 
tinuing  down  the  river,  the  valley,  which  has  heretofore  been  broad  and  level,  at  nine  miles  from 


FROM   CANTONMENT    STEVENS   TO   OLYMPIA.  559 

the  camp,  narrows  to  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  is  quite  broken.  In  three  miles  more  we  crossed 
a  creek  eight  yards  wide,  coming  in  from  the  northeast ;  and  here  the  St.  Mary's  makes  a  sharp 
bend  to  the  west  and  southwest,  and  runs  through  a  rocky  defile. 

The  trail  passes  over  high  hills  on  the  north,  but  a  railroad  may  be  constructed  on  a  narrow 
margin  of  level  ground  along  the  river. 

Passing  the  hills,  in  four  miles  the  road  leads  over  a  wooded  table-land  sixty  feet  above  the 
river.  The  road  continues  good  for  twelve  miles,  when  it  passes  over  a  ridge  of  basaltic  rock 
abutting  upon  the  river,  which  is  here  narrow  and  deep,  running  through  a  rocky  defile. 

In  two  miles  farther  we  reached  a  fine  bottom  affording  good  grass,  and  here  we  encamped, 
having  made  30  miles.  In  the  last  twenty  miles  of  this  day's  march  there  is  no  agricultural 
land;  the  river  valley  being  generally  no  more  than  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  in  many 
places  the  lofty  mountains  on  either  side  come  close  to  the  water. 

September  22. — We  continued  at  an  early  hour  down  the  stream,  passing  for  eleven  miles  over 
a  high  plateau,  wooded  with  an  open  and  thifty  growth  of  yellow  pine,  when  we  reached  a  point 
where  the  mountains  upon  this  side  abut  upon  the  river  in  perpendicular  rock.  The  trail  leads 
for  six  miles  over  these  mountains,  while  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  a  fine  wooded 
bottom  practicable  for  a  railroad.  Leaving  the  mountains,  we  struck  a  high  sandy  plain,  wooded 
with  pine,  and  affording  a  good  road;  at  5  p.  m.,  having  found  some  grass  not  destroyed  by  the 
fire  which  has  lately  run  over  the  country,  we  encamped,  having  made  25  miles. 

September  23. — Started  early  and  pushed  on  at  a  good  rate  over  a  fine  road,  the  trail  passing 
sometimes  through  narrow  bottoms,  and  at  others  along  the  side?  of  the  hills  where  they  touch 
the  river ;  at  2  p.  m.,  having  made  fifteen  miles,  we  reached  the  crossing  of  the  St.  Mary's  river, 
and  succeeded  in  fording  it  without  damage  save  the  wetting  two  or  three  packs. 

This  is  a  long  and  difficult  ford,  and  not  to  be  undertaken  by  any  one  not  well  acquainted 
with  it. 

At  this  point  the  trail  leading  to  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mission  leaves  the  St.  Mary's  and  passes  up 
the  small  stream  called  by  the  Catholic  missionaries  St.  Regis  Borgia.  My  guide  says  that  we 
must  encamp  here,  as  there  is  no  water  for  some  distance  in  advance. 

The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  our  camp  is  a  densely-wooded  level  of  rich  soil.  One  mile 
below  is  a  much  better  ford  of  the  St.  Mary's  than  the  one  we  passed  over.  Several  Koolenaies 
Indians  visited  camp  during  the  evening ;  they  are  well  formed  Indians,  of  agreeable  features 
and  rather  light  complexion.  They  seemed  very  poor,  and  I  gave  them  food,  and  some  small 
articles,  as  tobacco,  fish-hooks,  &c. 

September  24. — There  was  a  heavy  frost  last  night,  and  a  dense  fog  this  morning.  Continuing 
our  journey,  we  followed  a  trail  leading  along  a  high  ridge  densely  timbered  with  pine,  spruce, 
and  fir,  bounding  on  the  north  a  narrow  valley,  and  running  nearly  due  east  and  west.  In  seven 
miles  the  trail  crosses  the  valley  and  passes  over  a  mountain  for  five  miles,  where  was  much 
fallen  timber,  and  the  road  generally  difficult;  but  it  is  evident,  by  cutting  out  the  timber  in 
the  valley  of  the  creek  south  of  this  trail,  a  good  road  can  be  found. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  we  crossed  two  brooks  running  south,  and  in  one  mile  more  crossed 
a  fine  creek  ten  feet  wide,  running  in  the  same  direction;  and  in  fifteen  miles  from  the  St.  Mary's 
reached  St.  Borgia  river,  which  is  sixty  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  with  a  swift  current  flowing 
over  a  pebbly  bottom,  and  the  stream  does  not  appear  to  be  subject  to  heavy  freshets.  Following 
up  on  the  north  side  for  seven  miles  through  small  openings  and  timber  of  medium  growth,  chiefly 
pine,  spruce,  and  hemlock,  we  encamped  where  the  trail  first  crosses  the  river. 

September  25. — It  was  raining  heavy  this  morning,  but  we  packed  up  and  started,  as  I  am 
determined  to  push  ahead.  The  road  crosses  the  stream  frequently,  and  is  altogether  generally 
level — difficult  for  pack  animals,  on  account  of  thickets  of  willow  and  fallen  timber.  The  coun 
try  continues  the  same  as  yesterday,  occasional  openings  occurring,  where  is  found  good  grass. 

Passed  several  lodges  of  Cceur  d'Alene  Indians.    They  urged  me  to  stop  and  take  shelter  from 


560  FROM   CANTONMENT    STEVENS   TO   OLYMPIA. 

the  rain,  and  my  guide  was  determined  to  avail  himself  of  the  offer,  but  finding  that  I  had  pushed 
on  without  him,  he  rejoined  me  in  the  course  of  an  hour.  We  made  to-day  twenty-four  crossings 
of  the  stream,  and  encamped  at  dark  in  a  small  prairie,  which  the  guide  said  was  the  last  between 
this  and  the  divide. 

September  26. — Continued  up  the  stream,  and  after  making  twenty-four  crossings  and  passing 
over  some  very  bad  roads,  on  account  of  willow  thickets  and  fallen  timber,  we  came  to  where 
both  the  stream  and  the  trail  fork.  The  left-hand  trail  commences  immediately  the  ascent  of 
the  mountain,  while  the  other  continues  up  the  right-hand  or  northern  fork,  apparently  through  a 
valley  similar  to  that  up  which  we  have  been  travelling  ;  and  this  I  wished,  supposing  it  to  be 
the  route  over  which  Lieutenant  Mullan  passed,  and  reported  by  him  to  be  a  better  route  than 
the  one  surveyed  by  Mr.  J.  M.  Stanley.  But  my  guide  persisted  in  saying  that  it  was  a  very 
bad  road ;  that  the  mountains  were  high ;  that  it  was  miry,  and  there  was  much  fallen  timber ; 
and  that  the  other  was  the  only  trail  used  for  many  years.  Being  therefore  in  doubt  as  to  which 

was  the  trail  explored  by  Mr.  Stanley,  and  which  by ,   we  followed  the  trail  to  the 

left,  and,  after  ascending  for  seventeen  miles  over  mountains  of  very  steep  ascent,  reached  the 
summit,  and  it  was  then  only  that  I  could  be  certain  this  was  the  same  route  passed  over  by 
yourself  and  Mr.  Stanley. 

We  encamped  on  the  summit,  at  two  small  lakes,  in  a  basin  five  hundred  feet  below  us,  arid 
which  were  only  accessible  by  a  very  steep  road  worn  in  the  side-hill,  showing  that  this  is  an 
old  encamping  ground. 

September  27. — There  was  a  heavy  frost  last  night,  as  might  be  expected  upon  an  elevation  of 
some  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  Early  in  the  morning  I  ascended  a  point  of  rocks  four 
hundred  feet  above  our  camp,  and  at  sunrise,  as  the  first  rays  touched  upon  the  peaks  of  this 
seemingly  boundless  chain  of  mountains,  the  scene  was  beautiful  and  grand.  This  peak,  which 
seemed  to  be  the  highest  in  the  range,  I  have  named  Mt.  Stevens.  Upon  the  north  side  it  is 
covered  with  luxuriant  grass  to  the  summit,  while  on  the  south  it  has  a  perpendicular  descent  of 
basaltic  rock  for  one  thousand  feet,  to  the  two  small  lakes,  appearing,  from  this  elevation,  no 
larger  than  a  mirror.  From  this  point  a  good  view  of  the  whole  country  is  obtained,  and  I 
sketched  it  in  yesterday's  route.  It  is  evident  that  a  better  route  than  this  can  be  obtained  by 
following  up  the  north  branch  of  the  St.  Regis  Borgia  to  its  source  and  crossing  a  low  divide  to 
the  Cceur  d'Alene  river.  This  is  the  route  passed  over  by  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and  he  will  no 
doubt  report  upon  it. 

Continued  to-day  along  the  dividing  ridge,  alternately  ascending  and  descending.  The  loftier 
and  more  dense  growth  of  timber  indicates  that  we  are  reaching  a  lower  altitude.  In  ten  miles 
travelling  we  reached  the  last  descent,  which  is  six  thousand  feet,  almost  perpendicular.  The 
road  has  been  rendered  slippery  by  recent  rains,  and  I  esteem  it  fortunate  to  find  myself  and 
party  in  safety  at  its  foot.  In  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  base  of  the  mountain  we  struck  the 
Cceur  d'Alene  river  at  its  upper  forks.  The  south  branch  comes  from  the  high  mountains  on  the 
southeast,  while  the  north  branch  flows  through  an  extensive  valley  running  nearly  due  east  and 
west ;  and  through  this  valley  passes  the  trail  which  it  was  my  intention  to  pursue.  I  am  confi 
dent  that  the  best  route  is  up  this  branch  to  its  source,  and  passing  over  a  divide  which  cannot 
be  less  than  three  thousand  feet  below  the  level  of  our  last  night's  camp,  to  the  St.  Regis  Borgia, 
down  that  stream  to  the  Bitter  Root  river.  Lieutenant  Mullan,  who  passed  over  this  route  last 
spring,  is  of  this  opinion,  and  also  expressed  the  belief  that  a  good  wagon  road  can  be  made 
through  this  pass  at  a  moderate  expense. 

Continued  down  the  river,  crossing  and  recrossing  frequently,  and  passing  numerous  small 
branches  coming  in  on  either  side.  The  timber,  chiefly  fir  and  cedar,  is  of  a  size  much  superior 
to  any  we  have  heretofore  seen.  Many  of  the  cedars  were  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  not  less  than 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height.  At  4  p.  m.  we  reached  the  first  grass  since  our  encamp 
ment  of  last  night.  It  is  a  small  prairie  upon  the  river,  and  is  a  good  encamping  ground  for  a 


FROM   CANTONMENT   STEVENS   TO   OLYMPIA.  561 

considerable  train.     Pushing  on  five  miles  more  we  encamped  at  sundown,  having  made  by  esti 
mate  22  miles  for  the  day's  march. 

September  28. — The  morning  was  clear  and  warm.  Made  an  early  start,  and  pushed  on  as 
rapidly  as  a  road  much  obstructed  by  fallen  timber  and  a  dense  undergrowth  would  permit. 
The  valley  is  widening,  and  the  timber  more  open  and  of  smaller  size.  Having  crossed  the  river 
sixteen  times,  the  trail  led  over  some  low  hills  on  the  north  side  for  five  miles,  and  afforded  a 
very  good  road.  Recrossing  the  stream,  which  is  here  twenty  yards  wide  and  three  feet  deep, 
and  passing  through  a  fine  prairie  two  miles  in  extent,  we  came  to  a  wheat- field,  which  we 
gladly  hailed  as  a  sign  of  our  near  approach  to  civilization. 

Following  an  old  trail  leading  through  open  pine  woods,  in  one  mile  more  we  crossed  to  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  and  emerging  from  the  woods,  stood  upon  the  edge  of  a  beautiful  prairie. 
Near  to  us  was  a  large  field,  well  fenced  and  cultivated,  and  near  its  centre,  upon  a  fine  rise  of 
ground,  stood  a  handsome  church,  surrounded  by  a  group  of  small  houses,  giving  to  the  scene 
quite  a  village-like  air.  It  was  a  pleasant  sight  to  us,  who  for  so  long  a  time  had  not  looked  upon 
the  slightest  evidences  of  civilization.  This  is  the  Catholic  Cceur  d'Alene  mission.  Passing  by 
the  mission,  we  encamped  one  mile  beyond,  on  a  small  lake  near  the  river.  Many  of  the  Coeur 
d'Alene  Indians  were  encamped  near  us,  and  several  voluntarily  assisted  in  unpacking  the  mules 
and  arranging  the  camp,  and  seemed  desirous  of  manifesting  their  friendship  in  various  ways. 
Towards  evening  I  walked  up  to  the  mission,  and  was  most  hospitably  received  by  the  Rev.  Father 
Rovallie,  the  missionary  in  charge.  He  is  an  Italian  by  birth,  has  resided  here  ten  years,  and  is 
a  well-informed,  intelligent  gentleman. 

With  very  limited  means  this  mission  has  done  much  to  civilize  these  Indians,  and  develop  the 
agricultural  capacities  of  the  country.  They  now  have  some  fifty  acres  under  cultivation,  and  have 
succeeded  in  raising  fair  crops  of  wheat,  oats,  peas,  potatoes,  turnips,  carrots,  and  hemp.  The 
latter  succeeds  admirably,  and  might  be  made  an  important  article  of  export  from  Washington 
and  Oregon  Territories. 

A  fine  garden  affords  a  supply  of  excellent  vegetables.  The  climate,  owing  to  the  proximity  of 
a  lofty  mountain  range,  is  very  cold  during  the  winter,  and  even  during  the  summer  the  nights 
prove  too  cold  for  the  successful  cultivation  of  Indian  corn.  Hay  is  requisite  for  stock  through  the 
winter,  and  is  easily  obtained  from  the  prairies  along  the  river. 

Father  Rovallie  gave  me  an  urgent  invitation  to  remain  with  him  several  days,  and  also  wished 
to  accommodate  my  party  at  the  mission;  but  it  not  being  necessary  to  remain  here  long,  and  not 
wishing  to  break  up  the  routine  of  camp  life,  I  declined  his  kind  offer.  I,  however,  sat  at  his  hos 
pitable  board  during  my  short  sojourn  here,  and  for  the  first  time  in  a  year  and  a  half  enjoyed  the 
luxuries  of  civilized  life. 

September  29. — To-day  we  remained  in  camp  to  repair  pack-saddles,  recruit  the  animals,  and 
select  some  fresh  ones  from  the  few  left  here  by  Lieutenant  Mullan. 

September  30. — Made  a  late  start,  owing  to  trouble  in  catching  the  animals.  Travelled  down 
the  river,  which  now  bends  to  the  south ;  traversing  a  succession  of  low  prairies  separated  by 
thickets  of  scrub-pines,  and  climbing  two  hills  to  avoid  dense  undergrowth  in  the  bottoms,  in  four 
miles  we  reached  the  crossing  of  Cceur  d'Alene  river.  Here  two  Indians,  with  small  bark  canoes, 
awaited  us.  An  hour  was  consumed  in  crossing,  another  in  packing,  and  we  then  pushed  on 
through  a  fine  prairie  stretching  six  miles  down  the  river,  and  three  or  four  in  breadth,  possessing 
an  excellent  soil.  On  the  opposite  side,  lofty  hills,  wooded  with  pine,  come  down  to  the  water's 
edge.  We  encamped  at  the  lower  end  of  the  prairie,  where  a  deep  creek  enters,  having  made 
to-day  ten  miles.  The  wagon  road  from  the  mission  to  this  point  is  good,  by  bridging  the  Coeur 
d'Alene  ;  which  can  easily  be  done,  as  the  stream  is  narrow. 

October  1. — The  morning  was  clear  and  warm.     The  horses  having  strayed,  we  were  unable  to 
start  before  Ha.  m.     Passing  up  the  creek  one  mile,  we  crossed  it  where  it  debouches  from  a 
lake  one  mile  in  diameter,  near  which  is  another  small  one. 
71/ 


562  FROM    CANTONMENT    STEVENS   TO    OLYMPIA. 

The  trail  leads  through  a  fine  prairie  for  four  miles  to  another  large  lake,  along  the  eastern  shore 
of  which  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  a  mountain  ridge. 

To  the  summit  is  one  mile,  and  ten  days' labor  would  render  it  good  for  wagons.  Thence  the 
road  is  over  a  rollinf  country,  timbered  with  scattering  pines  for  seven  miles,  to  the  south  branch 
of  the  Coeur  d'Alene.  Here,  in  a  fertile  valley,  are  four  lakes,  connected  by  narrow,  deep  streams. 
We  crossed  where  the  various  streams  or  outlets  unite  and  form  the  inlet  to  a  large  lake  one  mile 
below  the  crossing  which  stretching  to  the  northwest  four  miles,  then  bends  to  the  southwest, 
and  is  hidden  by  mountains  coming  down  to  the  south  shore. 

We  encamped  immediately  after  crossing,  as  there  is  no  water  within  a  day's  march  beyond. 
Upon  the  narrow  tongue  of  land  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  outlet  of  the  lakes,  and  separated 
from  our  camp  by  only  the  width  of  the  stream,  were  several  lodges  of  Cceur  d'Alene  Indians, 
livinf  in  huts  of  bark  and  mats.  They  are  principally  old  and  decrepit  people,  and  present  a 
squalid,  miserable  appearance.  Their  chief  food  is  fish  and  roots,  of  which  they  had  a  small 
supply,  placed  on  scaffolds  to  preserve  it  from  the  dogs.  Two  old  women  crossed  our  baggage 
in  canoes,  for  which  I  paid  them  fifty  loads  of  ammunition,  five  feet  of  tobacco,  and  a  few  beads, 
fish-hooks,  arid  rings. 

During  the  night  a  legion  of  Indian  dogs  came  across  the  river  and  began  an  attack  upon  our 
camp.  It  was  simply  a  foraging  expedition,  and  their  appetites  rejected  nothing,  even  bridles, 
parfleches,  lariats,  &c.  They  kept  me  awake  all  night,  and,  in  spite  of  my  vigilance,  devoured  a 
fine  lariat  which  I  valued  highly.  The  horses  several  times  attempted  to  cross  the  river  and  take 
the  "back  track;"  but  as  they  must  pass  through  the  camp  to  do  so,  they  awakened  us,  and  we 
drove  them  back.  It  is  thus  animals  are  generally  lost ;  they  take  the  back  track,  for  some 
unknown  reason,  and  by  morning  are  many  miles  from  camp. 

October  2. — Morning  cloudy.  The  Indians  were  singing  and  praying  nearly  all  night,  and  con 
tinued  it  this  morning.  Started  early.  The  trail  leads  along  the  shore  of  the  lake  above  us;  the 
beach  is  of  basaltic  rock,  in  small  fragments.  Leaving  the  lake,  we  ascended  a  narrow  valley, 
occasionally  crossing  the  dry  bed  of  a  small  stream,  and  in  four  miles  reached  the  summit  of 
the  ridge,  to  which  point  the  road  is  good  for  wagons,  with  little  work ;  thence  the  country  is 
generally  rolling,  sparsely  timbered  with  pine,  little  undergrowth,  and  plenty  of  grass.  The  soil 
is  an  ashy  loam.  In  ten  miles  passed  a  large  prairie  on  the  right,  and  in  two  more  struck  an 
extensive  prairie  stretching  beyond  view  to  the  west :  character  rolling,  and  soil  a  black,  sandy 
loam.  This  I  suppose  to  be  the  Camash  prairie  of  the  Cceur  d'Alenes.  Struck  across  the  prairie 
to  a  high  ridge,  and,  following  it  to  its  base  one  mile,  came  to  a  thicket  of  willows  surrounding  a 
small  spring.  The  water  is  indifferent,  but  there  is  an  abundance  of  good  grass.  Here  we 
encamped,  as  it  is  a  long  day's  march  to  another  encamping  place.  Large  herds  of  horses  were 
grazing  on  the  prairies.  They  belonged  to  the  Saptin  or  Nez  Perces  Indians,  several  of  whom 
visited  our  camp,  and  were  well-behaved. 

October  3. — Morning  clear  and  cool,  with  a  heavy  frost  last  night.  Starte  early,  passing  along 
the  base  of  the  ridge,  and  over  a  good  wagon  road  for  one  mile,  when  we  began  the  ascent.  It 
is  a  hill  of  six  hundred  feet  elevation,  of  an  easy  ascent,  and  in  one  mile  we  reached  the  summit, 
when  a  splendid  panorama  opened  around  us — to  the  northeast,  the  blue  peaks  of  the  Bitter  Root 
range ;  to  the  west,  an  ocean  of  rolling  prairie ;  and  south,  on  our  course,  the  prairie  stretched  to 
far-distant  mountains,  marking,  I  presume,  the  course  of  the  Great  Snake  river.  Descending  by 
a  good  road,  we  struck  the  dry  bed  of  a  creek,  and  followed  down  it.  In  four  miles  the  trail 
forks,  and  we  took  the  right  hand,  our  course  bearing  upon  a  lofty  pyramidal-shaped  butte,  tower 
ing  alone  above  the  prairie.  Crossing  some  low  hills  for  two  miles,  we  fell  into  another 
valley  or  depression,  and,  some  distance  down,  observed  traces  of  a  stream  at  some  period  of 
the  year,  and  in  ten  miles  came  to  a  small  clump  of  cotton-woods  and  willows  near  a  pool  of 
water,  the  first  seen  since  our  camp  of  last  night,  twenty-two  miles  distant.  The  course  of  the 
creek  is  now  thinly  bordered  with  small  cotton- woods  and  willows.  Towards  evening  we  met 


FROM    CANTONMENT   STEVENS   TO   OLYMPIA.  663 

three  Indians  and  a  white  man  carrying  supplies  of  sugar,  coffee,  &c.,  to  the  mission.  The 
white  man,  who  is  one  of  the  "  brothers"  at  the  mission,  made  several  complaints  against  one 
Geny,  the  government  interpreter  lor  this  district — mainly  that  he  opposed  the  mission,  and  excited 
the  hostility  of  the  Indians  towards  the  Americans.  The  "  brother"  also  informed  me  of  the 
murder  of  twenty-three  emigrants  by  the  Snake  Indians,  and  plots  among  all  the  Indians  of  Ore 
gon  and  Washington  Territories.  In  twenty-four  miles  from  our  last  night's  camp  we  came  to 
an  abundance  of  excellent  spring-water,  forming,  in  a  short  distance,  a  handsome  brook.  Three 
miles  below  we  left  this  creek,  where  it  bends  sharp  to  the  west,  entering  a  narrow,  rocky  defile. 
Turning  south,  and  crossing  a  rolling  prtiirie,  in  five  miles  we  struck  a  handsome  creek,  twenty 
feet  wide  and  one  foot  deep,  flowing  over  a  pebbly  bottom.  Here  we  encamped  in  a  fine  bottom, 
affording  luxuriant  grass  and  a  good  growth  of  cotton-wood  and  pines.  The  valley  of  this 
stream  is  generally  narrow,  and  bounded  by  precipices  of  basaltic  rock.  The  soil  is  a  rich  loam. 
Made  to-day  35  miles. 

October  4. — Morning  clear  and  warm.  Made  an  early  start,  and,  ascending  from  the  valley  by 
a  long  incline,  struck  into  one  of  the  numerous  depressions  or  shallow  valleys  traversing  this 
prairie  in  a  southwest  and  northeast  direction,  or  nearly  east  and  west.  Our  course  during  the  day 
was  generally  down  these,  crossing  occasionally  from  one  to  the  other  over  the  low  ridges  dividing 
them,  affording  an  excellent  wagon  road.  In  eighteen  miles  we  reached  a  clump  of  cotton-wood 
trees,  where  was  excellent  water  from  small  springs,  forming  a  small  stream  running  west.  Con 
tinued  down  this  valley  seven  miles,  when  my  guide,  finding  himself  in  the  wrong  road,  turned 
due  south,  and  in  six  miles  struck  the  right  trail.  The  country  is  now  somewhat  broken,  and 
basaltic  rocks  show  in  the  summits  of  the  hills.  The  country  continued  quite  the  same  during 
the  day,  and  in  thirty-four  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night  we  reached  several  powerful 
springs,  forming  a  large  creek,  which  in  two  miles  empties  into  the  north  branch  of  the  Pelouse 
river,  a  fine  stream  fifty  feet  wide  and  two  feel  deep,  which  comes  from  the  north,  flowing  through 
a  fine  valley  bounded  by  high  buttes  and  ridges  of  basaltic  rock.  The  Indians  have  here  a  fish- 
weir,  and  I  noticed  an  old  field  in  which  they  had  cultivated  potatoes.  It  appears  to  me  that  we 
are  making  so  much  westing  as  to  bring  us  below  the  mouth  of  the  Pelouse,  as  laid  down  on  the 
map.  We  encamped  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  spring-brook,  having  made  to-day  36  miles. 

October  5. — I  was  awakened  this  morning  by  the  rain  falling  on  my  face  as  I  was  sleeping  in 
the  open  air — my  usual  custom  when  the  nights  are  fair.  Called  the  men,  and  had  the  tents 
pitched.  The  rain  continued  falling  heavily  until  11  a.  m.,  when  it  ceased  and  the  sun  came  out 
warm.  Packed  up,  and  had  gone  but  a  few  rods  when  a  violent  storm  of  rain  and  hail  burst 
upon  us,  thoroughly  drenching  us  and  stampeding  the  mules.  Pushed  on  rapidly,  leaving  the 
river  in  three  miles,  and  turning  south.  Country  much  broken  by  long  flat- topped  hills  of  black 
rock,  and  reminding  me,  in  its  general  character,  of  the  country  between  Dearborn  and  Sun  rivers. 
In  sixteen  miles  we  struck  the  Pelouse  river  four  miles  above  its  mouth,  and,  passing  down 
two  miles,  descended  to  the  valley  by  a  very  long  steep  hill,  which  will  require  considerable 
labor  to  make  it  passable  for  wagons.  Crossed  the  river,  which  is  shallow,  and  no  more  than 
one  hundred  feet  in  width,  and  in  a  mile  and  a  half  more  struck  the  great  Snake  river  forty  rods 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Pelouse,  where  we  encamped. 

There  is  no  wood  here  excepting  drift-wood,  and  the  Indians  collect  this  for  their  winter  use 
and  for  sale.  We  found,  however,  along  the  beach  sufficient  for  our  camp-fires.  This  is  a  mis 
erable  encamping  ground,  as  there  is  no  grass  nearer  than  a  mile,  and  then  but  little.  There  are 
no  Indians  here,  and  therefore  no  means  of  crossing. 

October  6. — The  morning  was  clear  and  cold.  Sent  the  guide  early  up  the  river  to  look  for 
some  Indians  to  take  us  across,  and  about  10  a.  m.  descried  an  Indian  in  a  canoe  coming  to  our 
relief. 

In  an  hour  our  packs  were  safely  across,  and  the  animals  swam  over  without  accident.  The 
old  Indian  who  ferried  us  presented  me  several  papers  or  certificates  of  character;  some  setting 


564  FROM   CANTONMENT    STEVENS   TO    OLYMPIA. 

forth  that  be  was  the  best  of  Indians,  and  others  that  he  was  a  most  arrant  scoundrel.  It 
Wds  1  p.  m.  when  we  were  packed  up  and  ready  for  a  start.  My  guide  said  it  would  be  mid 
night  before  we  reached  a  place  to  encamp,  but,  being  determined  to  leave  this  barren  place,  I 
pushed  on  rapidly  over  a  high-rolling  prairie,  bounded  on  the  south  by  a  range  of  mountains  of  a 
peculiar  blue  color  verging  upon  a  purple  tint,  and  at  8  p.  m.  reached  the  Touchet  river.  A  clear 
night  and  a  full  moon  enabled  us  to  find  a  good  encamping  ground  a  mile  below  where  we  first 
struck  the  river.  The  night  was  the  coldest  we  have  had  this  season,  and  we  were  not  sorry  to 
find  sufficient  drift-wood  to  make  a  comfortable  fire. 

October  7. — The  morning  was  clear  and  frosty.  The  Touchet  river  is  about  twelve  yards 
wide,  and  quite  deep.  The  valley  is  narrow,  and  is  overflowed  at  high  water.  About  three  miles 
below  our  crimp  is  a  better  encamping  ground,  especially  for  a  lage  train.  In  three  miles  we  left 
the  river,  which  bends  to  the  south,  while  our  course  is  southwest  by  west  over  a  level  sandy 
plain,  producing  but  little  grass  and  an  abundance  of  sage  of  small  growth,  indicating  a  poor 
soil.  The  trail  then  leads  on  a  course  south  60°  west,  true,  direct  to  Fort  Wallah-Wallah.  At 
3  p.  m.  obtained  my  first  view  of  the  Columbia  river,  for  which  1  had  departed  from  the  Father 
of  Waters  more  than  a  year  ago.  We  hailed  this  glad  sight  as  almost  the  termination  of  our 
long  journey,  and  quickening  our  pace,  reached  the  little  Wallah- Wallah  one  mile  above  the  fort; 
and  at  4  p.  m.  entered  its  gates,  and  were  hospitably  received  by  Mr.  D.  Pambrun,  the  gentleman 
in  charge.  The  fort  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  desolate  sand-hills,  and  there  is  no  timber  within 
sight.  Our  tent  was  pitched  near  the  fort,  and  Mr.  Pambrun  supplied  the  men  with  wood, 
fresh  meat,  vegetables,  &c.,  while  I  accepted  the  offer  of  a  sojourn  in  his  house  during  my  stay. 

October  8,  Sunday. — Remained  in  camp  awaiting  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Mullan,  according 
to  our  appointment  to  rendezvous  at  this  point.  The  day  passed  pleasantly  in  reading  and  con 
versation. 

October  9. — Morning  cloudy,  with  a  little  rain.  About  4  p.  m.  Lieutenant  Mullan  and  party 
came  in,  having  been  twenty-one  days  from  Cantonment  Stevens,  and  experienced  an  unpleas 
ant  journey,  owing  to  a  difficult  road,  straying  of  the  animals,  &c. 

October  10. — The  day  was  chiefly  employed  in  making  preparations  for  a  start  to-morrow  ; 
Lieutenant  Mullan  proceeding  to  the  Dalles,  while  I  shall  go  up  the  Yakima,  and,  via  the  Sno- 
qualme  Pass,  to  Puget  sound,  if  it  is  possible  to  procure  a  good  guide. 

October  11. — The  animals  were  brought  in,  and  after  making  the  necessary  exchanges,  Lieu 
tenant  Mullan  bade  me  farewell  and  started  for  the  Dalles  at  noon.  Soon  after,  we  commenced 
crossing  the  packs,  and  at  5  o'clock  had  everything,  including  the  animals,  safely  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Columbia,  and  the  tents  pitched.  Taking  leave  of  my  kind  entertainers,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Pambrun,  1  crossed,  and,  seated  at  my  camp  fire,  feel  once  more  at  home. 

October  12. — A  clear  morning,  with  a  cold  north  wind.  As  usual,  on  starting  from  a  post,  we 
made  a  late  start.  We  travelled  along  the  bank  of  the  Columbia,  up  the  stream,  through  a 
sandy  barren  sage  plain  of  one  to  two  miles  in  width,  bounded  by  high  ridges  of  basaltic  rock 
parallel  to  the  river.  In  eleven  miles  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Snake  river,  coming  in  on  the 
opposite  side ;  and  in  thirteen  miles  more,  struck  the  Yakima  at  its  first  crossing ;  and  here  we 
encamped,  where  the  grass  was  excellent,  but  no  wood,  excepting  some  small  willows. 

October  13. — Made  a  late  start.  Crossed  the  river,  and  passing  up  six  miles,  crossed  it  again 
at  an  extensive  fish  weir.  Here  the  river  makes  an  extensive  bend  to  the  east,  and,  taking  a  cut 
off,  we  struck  the  rivfer  again  in  seven  miles,  and  continuing  up  seven  miles  farther,  encamped. 

October  14  and  15. — Continued  up  the  river  over  the  same  route  surveyed  by  a  party  under 
Captain  McClellan,  U.  S.  A. 

October  16. — In  three  miles  from  camp  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  At-tah-nam,  a  small 
stream  coming  in  from  the  west;  and  ascending  it  fourteen  miles,  reached  a  small  Catholic  mis 
sion,  pleasantly  situated  in  a  grove  of  small  white-oaks,  the  first  I  have  seen  since  leaving  Fort 
Uiiiori,  on  (lie  MissbUii. 


FROM   CANTONMENT   STEVENS   TO   OLYMPIA.  565 

The  priest  received  me  politely,  but  could  give  me  little  or  no  information  concerning  the  Sno- 
qualme  Pass.  No  guide  could  be  obtained  nearer  than  two  days'  march ;  and  he  would  be  an 
Indian,  to  whom  I  could  not  express  my  wishes  in  regard  to  the  several  trails  leading  through  the 
pass,  and  which  Governor  Stevens  had  directed  me  to  examine.  In  addition,  my  barometer  and 
sextant  were  unserviceable,  and  I  therefore,  although  reluctantly,  determined  to  proceed  directly 
to  Olympia  by  the  emigrant  road,  dispensing  with  a  guide. 

We  pushed  on  over  high  hills  covered  with  bunch-grass,  and  encamped  at  sundown  upon  a 
small  stream,  which  was  called  by  some  Indians  who  visited  us,  Te  quy-wy-e-chass.  Here  is  air 
abundance  of  luxuriant  bunch-grass. 

October  17. — We  started  early,  and  held  northeast  for  ten  miles,  when  we  struck  the  Nahchess 
river,  which  is  here  a  stream  sixty  yards  wride  and  two  feet  deep,  with  a  swift  current.  Crossed 
just  at  an  extensive  fish  weir,  where  immense  quantities  of  salmon  are  taken  in  the  season,  and  it 
is  said  to  be  the  best  fishery  on  the  Yakima.  In  three  miles  more  we  reached  the  Wenass  river, 
and  crossing  it  struck  the  broad  trail  of  the  emigrant  road,  and  followed  it  to  the  point  where  it 
leaves  the  Wenass  and  crosses  to  the  Nahchess. 

October  18,  19,  20,  and  21. — Pushed  on  as  rapidly  as  our  tired  and  sore-footed  animals  would 
permit.  A  minute  description  of  the  road  and  country  is  deemed  unnecessary,  as  it  has  already 
been  thoroughly  explored  and  surveyed.  But  I  must  take  this  opportunity  of  expressing  the 
opinion  that  the  location  of  the  road,  and  the  work  thereon,  have  been  most  judiciously  and 
thoroughly  performed  under  the  direction  and  personal  superintendence  of  Lieutenant  Arnold, 
U.  S.  A.  Wagons  can  now  come  over  the  road  with  but  little  difficulty,  and  an  additional 
expenditure  of  $10,000  would  make  it  an  excellent  mountain  road. 

On  the  morning  of  the  22d  we  reached  the  first  settlements,  and  pushing  on,  encamped  on 
Fennell's  prairie,  through  which  runs  a  small  creek  emptying  into  the  Puyallup  river.  Mr.  Fen- 
nell  has  a  fine  farm  of  rich  soil;  and,  indeed,  all  the  small  prairies  we  have  passed  appear  to  be 
very  fertile. 

October  23. — We  crossed  the  Puyallup  and  Nisqually  rivers,  and  passing  seven  miles  down  the 
latter,  encamped  on  a  spring-brook.  We  are  now  among  fine  farms,  cattle,  pigs,  chickens,  &c.; 
and  though  singular  and  strange,  they  are  by  no  means  unpleasant  sights  to  our  eyes,  so  long 
unaccustomed  to  look  upon  them. 

October  24. — We  pushed  on  rapidly  over  a  fine  prairie  country,  and  through  occasional  belts 
of  pine  timber  of  an  enormous  growth.  The  waters  of  the  Pacific  and  the  long  looked  for  town 
of  Olympia  burst  upon  our  delighted  vision.  We  rode  directly  into  town,  and  I  was  most  cor 
dially  welcomed  by  my  esteemed  friend  George  W.  Stevens,  Esq.,  and  Secretary  C.  H.  Mason. 
Located  in  their  hospitable  house,  truly  I  feel  once  more  almost  at  home  again. 

Thus  was  terminated  a  reconnaissance  from  Fort  Benton  to  Olympia  in  forty-seven  days,  in 
cluding  all  delays. 

Making  a  quick  trip  was  not  the  object  had  in  view,  but  rather  to  make  a  careful  survey  of  the 
route,  carrying  out  your  instructions  with  reference  to  the  agricultural  capabilities  of  the  country, 
and  the  feasibility  of  the  country  for  wagon  roads. 

In  this  report  the  form  of  a  brief  journal  has  been  adopted,  as  affording  more  minute,  and  con 
sequently  more  satisfactory  information  than  could  be  given  in  a  general  report. 

A  sketch  of  the  reconnaissance  is  herewith  submitted,  and  also  the  field-notes,  which  have 
been  plotted  precisely  as  taken  in  the  fie»ld,  and  without  ofF-sets  to  make  them  agree  with  pre 
vious  surveys. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  yours,  &c., 

JAMES  DOTY. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVEXS, 

In  Charge  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey. 


566  GENERAL    NOTES   ON    THE   CLIMATE. 

LETTER    OF    MR.  L.  BLODGET    TO    CAPTAIN  A.  A.  HUMPHREYS,  TRANSMITTING   GENERAL    NOTES    ON 
THE  CLIMATE    ON   ROUTE  NEAR  THE  FORTY-SEVENTH  AND  FORTY-NINTH  PARALLELS. 

WASHINGTON,  August  14,  1855. 

DEAR  SIR:  The  barometric  and  meteorological  observations  made  in  connexion  with  the  survey 
of  the  route  near  the  47th  and  49th  parallels,  which  were  recently  received  and  placed  in  my  hands, 
are  scarcely  sufficient  for  the  general  illustration  of  climate  of  the  district  traversed  by  the  survey 
which  was  originally  designed,  and  under  which  purpose  those  at  the  permanent  posts  were 
instituted.  The  observations  made  by  the  survey  at  the  greater  altitudes,  botli  at  temporary 
posts  and  on  the  several  lines,  are  indispensable  for  this  purpose,  and  further  measurements  are 
necessary  of  the  amount  of  precipitation  at  all  altitudes.  There  are  two  valuable  series,  however, 
at  Fort  Benton  and  at  Cantonment  Stevens,  St.  Mary's  valley,  of  nearly  a  year  each.  These 
were  taken  with  great  care,  and,  as  they  would  best  supply  the  lost  journals  of  the  survey,  as 
well  as  give  positive  results  in  regard  to  the  climate  of  a  new  district,  they  appear  worthy  of 
publication  in  detail.  They  have,  therefore,  been  carefully  prepared  for  that  purpose,  and  are 
followed  by  summaries  at  Fort  Pierre,  on  the  Missouri,  Columbia  barracks,  and  Olympia,  and  by 
the  journal  of  the  survey  of  Lieut.  Mowry,  east  of  the  Cascade  mountains. 

For  other  explanations,  and  for  some  deductions  and  comparisons  in  regard  to  the  general 
climate  of  the  district,  I  beg  to  refer  you  to  the  general  notes  and  remarks  prefacing  the  tables. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

L.  BLODGET. 

Capt.  A.  A.  HUMPHREYS, 

Top.  Engs.,  in  Charge  of  Office  of  P.  R.  Surveys. 


GENERAL  NOTES  ON  THE   CLIMATE  ON  THE  ROUTE   NEAR  THE  4?TH  AND  49TH  PARALLELS, 

BY  MR.  LORIN  BLODGET. 

The  number  of  meteorological  observations  made  within  a  few  years  at  the  military  posts  on  the 
coast  of  the  Pacific,  is  sufficient  to  have  furnished  a  very  good  knowledge  of  that  climate  already, 
and  its  more  striking  features  are  comparatively  well  understood.  For  the  interior  and  the 
mountainous  districts,  however,  there  are  but  few  records,  and  none  have  been  given  to  the  public 
from  points  north  of  the  latitude  of  Fort  Hall  and  west  of  Fort  Union,  on  the  Missouri.  It  was 
intended  to  establish  a  sufficient  number  of  posts  on  the  western  border  of  the  plains,  and  in  the 
mountains  and  interior  valley  of  Washington  Territory,  to  represent  every  distinguishable  district, 
and  to  permit  a  comprehensive  comparison  of  them.  In  the  present  result  there  are  two  or  three 
of  these  more  important  points  embraced,  but  it  is  yet  difficult  to  connect  them  in  an  intelligible 
manner,  or  to  show  where  the  distinctions  are.  Comparisons  of  temperature  may  be  made  with 
some  accuracy  from  the  records  at  hand,  and  these,  with  other  obvious  features,  may  be  given  in 
general  terms. 

Fort  Benton  and  St.  Mary's  valley  represent  the  more  elevated  plains  and  valleys  on  each  side 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  each  may  be  taken  as  decisive  of  the  climate  of  a  large  district. 
The  observations  in  detail  at  these  points  would  very  well  represent  the  itinerary  of  a  survey 
line  for  corresponding  months  for  it  considerable  distance  on  either  side,  and  they  are  given  in  full 
to  answer  the  purpose  of  this  required  knowledge  of  details.  Between  these  two  points  there  is 
little  of  definite  observation,  and  it  is  not  certain  how  far  their  comparisons  may  be  carried.  It 
scarcely  appears  whether  the  abrupt  contrasts  of  the  mountains  of  the  Pacific  coast  exist  here  or 
not,  either  in  the  temperature  or  in  the  amount  of  precipitation  in  rain  and  snow.  There  is  not 
sufficient  observation  also  of  the  Cascade  range  of  mountains,  or  of  the  dry  plains  immediately 
at  the  east  of  them,  especially  in  regard  to  amount  of  rain  and  snow.  The  journal  of  Lieut. 


GENERAL   NOTES   ON   THE   CLIMATE.  567 

Mowry  gives  some  valuable  temperature  observations  on  this  eastern  base  of  the  Cascades,  and 
his  condensed  notes  of  results  are  very  well  sustained  by  all  the  observations.  A  continuous  record 
at.  Fort  Okinakane  or  Fort  Colville  would,  apparently,  have  many  features  in  common  with  one 
at  St.  Mary's  valley  for  the  colder  months ;  yet,  for  the  summer,  there  must  be  some  prominent 
points  of  difference.  Each  of  these  districts  is  decidedly  separable  from  the  immediate  coast  of 
the  Pacific  west  of  the  mountains,  and  has  little  in  common  with  it  at  any  season. 

The  comparisons  which  would  illustrate  the  relation  of  the  climate  on  the  western  border  of  the 
plains  of  the  Missouri  to  those  of  the  east,  or  of  known  points  on  the  Mississippi  valley,  are  first 
necessary,  and  they  may  now  be  made  directly  with  these  points  for  the  same  months.  The 
record  at  Fort  Pierre  unfortunately  does  not  commence  until  nearly  the  last  of  the  months  observed 
at  Fort  Benton,  and  it  cannot,  therefore,  be  introduced  at  the  point  where  it  is  most  desirable. 
The  elevation  of  Fort  Benton  above  the  sea  is  2,GG2.9  feet  by  the  mean  of  all  the  barometric 
observations  taken  there.*  The  most  conspicuous  feature  of  the  temperature  of  the  post  is  its 
near  agreement  with  that  of  posts  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  plains — even  in  lower  latitudes, 
as  Forts  Snelling  and  Leaveriworth — from  the  commencement  of  the  record  to  the  close  of  Octo 
ber.  For  the  portion  of  September  observed,  and  for  the  whole  of  October,  it  was  warmer  than 
Fort  Snelling,  and  but  little  cooler  than  Fort  Leavenworth.  The  extremes  of  80°  for  the  highest, 
and  10°  for  the  lowest  degree,  are  nearly  the  same  as  at  Fort  Snelling,  where  the  lowest  degree 
in  October  is  8° — the  lowest  at  Fort  Leavenworth  being  22°.  The  lowest  at  Fort  Laramie  for 
October  is  20°.  At  the  close  of  the  month  there  were  severe  storms,  with  but  little  rain  or  snow, 
however. 

For  November  the  range  of  temperature  was  low,  and  on  six  days  at  or  below  zero.  The 
monthly  mean  was  ten  degrees  less  than  at  Fort  Snelling,  and  24.5°  less  than  Fort  Leavenworth. 
It  is  also  14.5°  less  than  that  of  Cantonment  Stevens,  on  the  west  of  the  mountains.  The  fall  of 
the  temperature  as  winter  approaches  appears  to  be  much  more  abrupt  east  of  the  mountains  in 
his  latitude  than  at  the  west,  or  in  the  vicinity  of  the  great  lakes.  There  were  few  storms  and 
very  little  snow. 

The  record  for  December  is  quite  anomalous,  and,  if  not  affected  by  position  of  the  thermome 
ter,  gives  an  extraordinarily  high  temperature.  At  all  other  posts  of  the  Northwest — Forts  Snel 
ling,  Kearney,  Laramie,  &c.,  east  of  the  mountains,  and  at  Cantonment  Stevens  and  Olympia  on 
the  west — the  temperatures  of  December  are  several  degrees  below  those  of  November,  while,  as 
recorded  here,  December  is  13.5°  warmer  than  November.  The  record  is  very  nearly  the  same 
as  that  at  Fort  Laramie  for  the  same  month,  though  colder  than  this  post  in  November  by  22°  in 
the  mean  temperature.  A  peculiarity  so  remarkable  should  be  verified  in  the  most  complete 
manner,  as  it  would  go  far  to  prove  the  distinctive  features  of  the  climate  of  the  northern  portion 
of  the  plains  east  of  the  mountains,  to  be  quite  separable  from  those  farther  south  and  east.  The 
changes  occurring  at  every  point  from  the  longitude  of  Fort  Kearney  eastward  are  so  far  asso 
ciated  as  to  produce  marked  correspondence  among  all  the  stations  of  a  very  large  area.  The 
ordinary  relation  of  ihe  temperatures  of  the  winter  months  is  sometimes  reversed,  but  in  every 
case  the  whole  country  participates  in  some  measure  in  the  change. 

At  Great  Salt  lake,  as  observed  by  the  Central  Survey,  the  temperature  of  December  is  much 
above  that  of  January  following,  and  also  apparently  much  above  the  average,  though  there 
are  but  few  observations  in  the  same  month  in  previous  years  with  which  to  compare  it.  In 
1854  the  mean  of  December  at  Great  Salt  lake  was  31.3°  against  41.5°  in  1853.  These  facts 
favor  the  view  that  the  temperature  changes  of  this  meridian  may  not  necessarily  be  associated 
with  those  of  either  side  of  the  mountains  at  great  distances. 

*  The  comparison  of  the  barometer  used  with  a  standard  is  not  given  in  connexion  with  the  observations.  It  was  a  syphon, 
by  Green,  No.  769,  and  it  is  only  known  that  it  is  reported  as  in  good  order  by  Mr.  Doty. 

The  determination  of  altitude  is  made  by  assuming  a  mean  barometric  reading  of  30.000  inches  at  sea-level,  the  reading  reduced 
to  freezing  point,  and  a  mean  air  temperature  of  50°. 


568 


GENERAL    NOTES   ON    THE   CLIMATE. 


In  January,  1854,  the  cold  was  intense  at  Fort  Benton  and  at  St.  Mary's  valley.  It  was  still 
more  severe,  however,  at  all  points  near  this  latitude  eastward  as  far  as  Fort  Mackinac,  and 
nearly  the  same  at  Fort  Kearney,  in  latitude  41°.  On  thirteen  days  the  thermometer  was  below 
zero  at  Fort  Benton;  at  Fort  Snelling  the  corresponding  number  of  days  was  twenty-three,  and 
at  Fort  Kearney  fourteen;  the  lowest  single  readings  being  respectively  24,  36,  and  16  degrees 
below  zero.  In  February,  the  remaining  month  of  winter,  the  mean  temperature  was  11°  above 
that  of  Fort  Snelling,  and  4°  below  that  of  Fort  Kearney.  The  low  extremes  at  these  posts  were 
—  6°,  —  20°,  and  +  2°,  respectively.  The  post  was  4°  colder  than  St.  Mary's  for  the  same  month. 

In  each  of  the  months  of  spring,  nearly  the  same  relation  of  temperatures  was  preserved  to 
stations  eastward.  March  and  April  were  each  5°  warmer  at  Fort  Benton  than  at  Fort  Snelling, 
and  April  was  warmer  than  at  Fort  Kearney.  In  May  there  was  very  little  difference  at  the 
three  posts.  March  only  was  colder  than  at  St.  Mary's,  and  the  mean  of  the  three  months  was 
greater  at  Fort  Benton  than  west  of  the  mountains. 

The  summer  of  1S54  had  nearly  the  same  mean  temperature  for  each  of  the  three  posts  pre 
viously  compared;  that  of  Fort  Benton  being  72.8°,  Fort  Snelling  72.1°,  and  Fort  Kearney  73.4°. 
St.  Mary's  valley  has  a  mean  of  69.6°.  The  extremes  of  temperature  range  as  high  here,  also, 
as  at  stations  eastward  on  the  plains,  the  summer  maximum  being  100°. 

The  corresponding  record  at  Fort  Pierre  first  appears  in  July,  with  a  mean  temperature  of 
76.9°  against  a  mean  of  73.6°  at  Fort  Benton,  and  the  differences  for  August  and  September  are 
not  large.  The  high  summer  temperatures  of  the  plains  at  the  sources  of  the  Missouri  are  a 
very  decided  and  well  established  feature. 

The  range  of  temperature  in  successive  months  and  for  less  periods  has  unusual  characteristics 
at  Fort  Benton,  as  exhibited  in  the  high  temperatures  of  December,  1853,  and  April,  1854.  In 
several  instances  warm  days  occurred  in  the  winter  months  in  connexion  with  high  southwest 
winds.  It  is  remarked  by  Mr.  Doty  that  these  winds  are  also  attended  with  a  fall  of  barometer, 
though  this  does  not  appear  in  the  record  as  a  marked  result.  In  May,  1854,  there  were  two 
days  on  which  snow  fell,  and  the  temperature  was  below  the  freezing  point. 

For  the  year  the  mean  temperature  compares  very  nearly  with  that  of  Fort  Kearney,  which  is 
quite  similar  in  the  corresponding  seasons,  and  it  is  three  or  four  degrees  above  that  of  Fort 
Snelling,  the  excess  occurring  in  winter  and  spring. 

The  hygrometric  observations  during  the  autumn  of  1853  were  taken  in-doors,  and  have  no 
value  as  measures  of  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere.  They  were  resumed  in  April,  1854,  and 
appear  to  be  correctly  taken  to  the  close  of  August.  The  differences  they  give  for  the  readings 
of  the  dry  and  wet  thermometers  are  quite  large;  and  though  a  mean  of  these  gives  but  a  rude 
approximation  towards  the  true  results  of  proportion  of  moisture  in  the  air,  some  intelligible  idea 
may  still  be  obtained  from  them.  Arranging  these  mean  differences,  for  the  several  hours  from 
May  to  August,  we  have  the  following  results : 

Mean  differences  of  readings  of  the  wet  and  dry  thermometers  at 


7  a.  in. 

2  p.  m. 

9  p.  m. 

Mean  for 
month. 

May  

...1854  
do         

o 
5.7 
7.4 

o 

13.3 
16.1 

o 
7.1 

8.0 

0 

8.7 
10.5 

July 

do  

12.2 

21).  7 

12.2 

15.0 

do      

15.  G 

23.5 

11.  0 

15.7 

If  correctly  observed,  these  show  a  climate  similar  to  that  of  New  Mexico,  and  the  arid  por 
tions  of  the  plains,  and  of  California.  The  maximum  of  single  differences  in  the  Atlantic  States 
rarely  exceeds  16°,  and  on  the  mean  for  a  month  does  not  reach  8°.  In  this  case,  the  observa- 


GENERAL   NOTES   ON   THE   CLIMATE. 


569 


tions  for  August  give  as  the  mean  per-centage  a  proportion  of  saturation  but  31  for  the  hour  of 
7  a.  m.,  and  but  20  for  that  of  2  p.  m.  That  of  9  p.  m.  is  48,  and  the  mean  33,  against  a  mean 
of  near  75,  or  an  average  in  the  Mississippi  valley  and  the  Atlantic  States.  The  calculation  in 
detail  would  give  very  low  proportions  of  atmospheric  moisture  in  many  cases ;  and  though 
this  detail  is  the  only  accurate  mode  of  obtaining  these  proportions,  the  measures  here  given  are 
a  near  approximation. 

The  quantity  of  rain  is  quite  imperfectly  observed  in  the  record  at  Fort  Benton  for  several 
months.  The  amount  is  apparently  small  for  the  year,  the  winter  and  spring  having  evidently 
the  greatest  quantity,  and  each  near  five  inches.  The  rains  not  measured  in  summer  are  not 
noted  as  profuse  in  any  case;  and  the  distribution  seems  to  partake  somewhat  of  that  peculiar  to 
the  Pacific  climates,  which  have  least  in  summer.  On  the  plains,  the  greatest  quantities  are  in 
spring,  and  other  seasons  are  often  quite  without  rain.  The  strong  southwest  winds,  with  the 
high  temperature  and  barometric  oscillations  then  noted  at  Fort  Benton  in  the  winter  months, 
prove  a  connexion  to  exist  with  the  Pacific  climates  which  does  not  appear  at  any  other  point  of 
the  plains.  In  these  cases  the  precipitation  is  doubtless  profuse,  in  rain  or  snow,  on  the  mount 
ains  of  this  vicinity. 

The  barometric  oscillations  at  Fort  Benton  and  St.  Mary's  are  also  quite  conformable  and 
identical  with  each  oiher  when  projected  in  curves.  They  exhibit  marked  movements  in  some 
instances  quite  sudden,  and  of  great  range  in  the  winter  months,  and  connect  the  attendant 
storms  beyond  a  doubt,  as  belonging  to  similar  climates  at  this  season. 

The  record  at  St.  Mary's  valley  requires  less  analysis  and  comparison,  to  illustrate  its  relation 
to  known  climates.  The  position  is  elevated  nearly  a  thousand  feet  above  Fort  Benton,  (3412.5 
feet  above  the  sea,)  yet  its  winter  climate  is  equally  mild,  and  the  extremes  at  that  season  not  more 
severe.  In  summer,  however,  the  low  temperatures  of  the  Pacific  coast  are  felt,  and  extremes 
occur  much  greater  than  those  at  Fort  Benton.  April  has  a  mean  temperature  6.5  degrees  lower 
at  Cantonment  Stevens.,  and  May  2.5  degrees.  In  May  there  is  snow  on  the  7th,  as  at  Fort 
Benton;  and  on  the  28th  snow  again,  two  inches  in  depth,  and  rains;  none  of  which  appear  at 
Fort  Benton. 

In  July  snow  fell  on  the  6th  in  small  quantity.  In  the  frequent  rains  of  the  summer  months 
on  the  mountains  of  the  vicinity,  if  not  at  the  post,  the  sudden  changes  of  temperature  and  of 
wind  peculiar  to  mountain  regions  appear  characteristic,  and  to  distinguish  the  climate  here  at 
that  season  from  that  of  the  plains  east  of  the  mountains,  as  well  as  those  towards  the  Pacific. 

The  quantity  of  rain  is  not  measured  at  this  post  for  any  part  of  the  period  of  observation. 
Rains  are  noted  frequently  in  the  remarks,  and  the  number  of  days  of  rain  and  snow  may  be 
given  here,  and  in  comparison  with  Fort  Benton : 


Cantonment  Stevens, 
St.  Mary's  valley. 

Fort  Benton. 

Days  rain. 

Days  snow. 

Days  rain. 

Days  snow. 

October  
November 

1853  (21  days)  

4 

7 
3 
4 
0 
6 
7 
8 
10 
3 
7 
10 

4 

10 
8 
10 
8 
7 
2 
2 
0 
1 
0 
0 

1 

0 
0 
0 

1 
1 

4 
4 
6 
2 
4 

3 

4 
1 

7 
3 
6 
0 
2 
0 
0 
0 

..do  

December 

do  

January  ... 
February 

.1854  
.do       

March  ..... 

..do  

April 

.  do  

do      

June 

do  

July  

..do  

August  .... 

..do  

September 

do.       .       ..          

T2/ 


570  GENERAL    NOTES   ON    THE   CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  the  district  between  the  TTocky  mountains  nnd  the  Cascade  range,  comprising 
much  the  largest  portion  of  Oregon  and  Washington  Territories,  has  many  of  the  characteristics 
peculiar  to  mountain  regions.  These  seem  to  belong  to  the  low  plain  and  valley  of  the  Columbia 
much  more  than  to  the  Missouri  valley  and  plains  at  Fort  Benton,  and  their  distinguishing  points 
of  ffreat  daily  range  of  temperature  and  abrupt  changes  of  wind  and  weather  are  as  conspicu 
ous  in  the  journal  of  the  expedition  along  the  eastern  base  of  the  Cascade  mountains  as  in  the 
record  at  St.  Mary's  valley.  This  line  of  reconnaissance  was  but  little  elevated  above  the  sea 
at  most  points. 

The  Cascade  range  has  a  most  decisive  effect  on  the  climate  of  the  district  east  of  it,  which  is 
mainly  due  to  its  great  elevation  and  high  latitude.  The  equable  temperatures  of  the  immediate 
coast  would  otherwise  be  felt  as  far  inland  as  in  the  corresponding  European  districts,  where 
they  directly  control  the  climate  of  nearly  half  the  continent.  The  Pacific  coast  has  this  local 
feature  abruptly  changed  by  the  intervention  of  these  mountains,  and  the  modification  of  climate 
which  remains  is  only  felt  in  the  generally  high  temperature  of  the  western  portion  of  the  conti 
nent.  All  portions  of  the  western  border  of  the  continent,  even  from  the  Mississippi  liver,  parti 
cipate  in  these  higher  temperatures  at  all  altitudes,  and  the  great  elev.ition  of  the  mountain  ranges 
and  plateaux  there  has  alone  obscured  this  fact.  It  does  not,  however,  render  the  contrasts 
peculiar  to  arid  valleys  and  the  vicinity  of  high  mountains  less  conspicuous,  though  the  mean  of 
their  temperatures  is  much  higher. 

Thus,  the  mean  temperatures  at  St.  Mary's  and  in  the  dry  plain  of  the  Columbia  are  greater 
than  those  of  the  coast,  if  the  lowest  scale  of  allowance  for  altitude  be  applied ;  yet  the  range  of 
successive  months  is  very  great,  and  the  range  of  simple  extremes  even  greater  than  these  last 
in  proportion. 

The  high  summer  temperatures  of  this  region  are  scarcely  less  noticeable  than  on  the  plains  of 
the  Missouri,  though  the  daily  range  is  so  much  greater  here  as  to  distinguish  the  climates  as 
quite  unlike.  All  the  plain  of  the  Columbia,  though  but  little  elevated  above  the  sea,  appears  to 
participate  in  the  abrupt  daily  changes  peculiar  to  mountain  regions,  and  this  is  doubtless  mainly 
due  to  the  great  altitudes  of  the  Cascade  and  Coast  mountains,  which  shut  it  from  the  coast  of 
the  Pacific. 

The  several  detailed  reports  in  connexion  with  special  reconnaissances  show  that  the  climate 
of  the  mountain  districts  is  generally  milder  than  would  elsewhere  belong  to  corresponding  lati 
tudes  and  altitudes.  Mountainous  districts  on  the  eastern  portion  of  the  continent  in  these  lati 
tudes  would  present  records  of  temperatures  much  lower  and  more  severe.  It  is,  however,  not 
less  extreme  in  its  changes,  and  generally  not  less  profuse  in  precipitation  for  the  prominent 
ranges.  Those  near  the  coast  arrest  a  very  large  precipitation  at  all  seasons,  and  are  sufficiently 
elevated  to  convert  most  of  it  into  snow,  except  in  the  three  months  of  summer.  As  the  inter 
vening  plains,  before  reaching  the  Rocky  mountains,  are  so  low,  there  is  comparatively  little  of 
rain  or  snow  on  them,  and  the  higher  portions  of  the  Rocky  mountains  must  again  receive  a 
large  precipitation.  East  of  the  mountains  the  quantity  of  rain  or  snow  in  the  extreme  seasons 
of  summer  and  winter  is  but  a  very  small  amount,  and  the  profusion  is  mainly  in  spring  and 
early  summer. 

These  records  show  greater  correspondence  of  the  districts  east  of  the  Cascade  range  of 
mountains  with  those  of  the  mountain  plateaux  southward,  in  regard  to  local  aridity  and  to  the 
attendant  daily  extremes  of  temperature,  than  could  have  been  anticipated  of  so  high  a  latitude. 
These  peculiarities  do  not  seem  dependent  on  altitude  alone,  also,  as  they  belong  as  decidedly  to 
the  low  plain  of  the  Columbia  as  to  the  Great  Basin  at  4,500  feet  elevation  above  the  sea. 

At  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  the  daily  and  monthly  ranges  of  temperatures  are  very  small,  and 
the  climate  at  Puget  sound  has  the  equable  features  without  the  unpleasant  peculiarities  of  that 
of  the  California  coast.  The  humidity  and  amount  of  precipitation  is  very  great  in  comparison 
with  the  interior,  and  greater  when  measured  by  the  per-centage  of  humidity,  and  the  number  of 


GENERAL    NOTES   ON    THE   CLIMATE.  571 

cloudy  and  rainy  days,  than  in  almost  any  part  of  the  United  States.  The  quantity  of  water 
falling  is  not  excessive,  however,  and  there  is  very  little  snow.  The  winter  precipitation  is 
greatest,  and  embraces  almost  all,  if  the  connected  months,  which  maybe  so  called,  are  included, 
and  the  fall  at  sea-level  is  almost  always  rain.  This  winter  rainy  season  is  identical  in  character 
along  the  whole  Pacific  coast  of  the  United  States,  being  only  shorter,  by  commencing  later  and 
closing  earlier  in  regular  decrease  southward  from  Puget  sound.  The  attendant  winds  and 
phenomena  are  also  identical — the  constant  southeast  wind  and  the  low  range  of  the  barometer. 
The  detailed  reports  of  the  several  reconnaissance  parties,  and  that  accompanying  the  prin 
cipal  report  of  Governor  Stevens,  embrace  all  the  points  of  interest  presented  by  the  observations 
which  have  not  been  alluded  to  here.  It  is  still  scarcely  possible  to  review  the  extensive  field 
covered  by  the  survey,  or  its  collateral  interests,  in  a  satisfactory  manner. 


572 


METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS. 


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1.780  Snowing;  clearins;  up;  4}  inches 
snow,  very  damp;  clear. 

Clear  ;  clear,  sun  warm  ;  hazy. 
Clear  and  frosty  ;  clear,  warm  ;  clear. 
Clear;  clear,  warm;  cloudy  partially. 
Frosty;  clear;  clear. 
Frosty;  clear  and  warm;  clear. 
Clear;  clear  and  warm  ;  clear. 
Overcast;  overcast,  very  dark  :  clear. 

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METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 


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9  p.  in.  ;  commenced  raining  at  fj  o'clock. 

1  a.  m.,  overcast  and  very  daik;  still  raining; 
1.100  inches  rain  last  night. 

BU  ing  un  UIUS,  KC  UM1I  U-CIUGK. 

1  inch  snow  last  night;  9  a.  m.,  snowing. 
Cloudy  and  cool  ;  9  p.  in.,  clear. 
Overcast  ;  9  p.  m  ,  clear;  shower  at  3  p.  m. 
Clear  and  cool  ;  9  p.  in.,  cool  ;  shower  at  5  p.  m. 

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Clear  and  cool. 
Cool  and  cloudy. 

Almost  total  eclipse  of  the  fun  2}  p.  in. 
Windy. 
Overcast;  cool. 
Cloudy  find  cool. 
Overcast  and  cool. 
Hazy  and  dark  ;  slight  showers  during  the  day. 

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METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


581 


•a    * 
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111! 


a    o-    6. 
o)0>CT> 


.    -  -  a       s       =  s  &   .       d      e         2        .  c 

§  1  1  1  61s  I  s  111  -  -•  s..  a  &&  =  i 

i  "S  •§  "§  1  S  •§  1  •§  •§  .§  s  I  «1  ?.l  «  1  1  «  IB 

-c3rte3c3»-,cs-c3BcSn-3>.  °>,  J     .,     *      "—    a- 


ooooo 


O     irt     tTJ 

lOCXJCDOCOOGOOOOiOOT'^^t'CJiniO 

tf5ir>«5co«oic*Sous<o55<o*O»ft«5to 


10    to    co    CD        10 


cooi--tocs 


C*3  OOCD 


ooooooooo 


(N     (M     Is"     O  -^ 

oo.  ooooooo-oo 


o        o        o          o          o.oooooooo 


«»   IH  »        1-1    'C 

o.          o          .          -.00 


O  O  ^'OOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 


o        o        ooooo—  lo 


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O  OOOOOOO-  OOOOOO 


... 

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0  OOCIO'T 


i-i        ooiot^eo 


TO        r-cot~oira 


00      TO      O 

a>    — '•    r-' 


c3<;iP5cv3oe»        ci 


o    o    TO    t^-    r- 

co    co    r~    i~    co 


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COr~COl^t~  to  COCOt^t^ 


oo         cooococr 


ococr>         TO 
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co         ioco"ococo 


CDCCTOTO^f»Oin'^' 

cococot~coo>.-5co 


cor~coco 


^^  <M  COfMCOO 

t~         r-         cocococo 


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oa        O^^TO--*        o        cot^oooso 

1-1  ClOlOtCJCI  Cl  CIClClt^TO 


582 


METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS. 


| 

"o 

03 
1 

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Daily  remarks  on  tlie  wjuiirr. 

S   1 
s  '5 

="   5 

tT    >> 

Clear. 
Clear  and  warm. 

Clear  and  wann. 

o 

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ci   u 

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k-    — 

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Clear  and  warm. 
Clear  and  warm. 
Clear  and  warm. 
Clear  and  warm. 
Clear  and  warm  ;  9  p.  m.,  forofiz"  from  N\V. 
Cool  wind. 
Cool  wind  from  N.  W. 
Clear  and  warm  ;  9  p.  m.,  clear  ajid  cool. 

Cool  and  pleni-ant. 
Clear  and  pleasant. 
Clear;  cool. 
Cool  ;  overcast  ;  9  p.  m.,  appearance  of  rain. 
Cool,  arid  heavy  fog;  9  p.  in  ,  cool  NW.  wind. 
Clear  and  warm. 
Pleasant. 
About  noon  thermometer  *too<l  at  100°. 
Clear  and  cool. 
Clear  and  cool  ;  9  p.  m.,  clear  nnd  warm. 
Very  warm. 
Hazy  and  warm  ;  appearance  of  storm. 
Very  warm. 
Cool  in  morning;  very  warm  at  2  p.  m.;  cool 
evening. 

Overcast;  9  p.  m.,  clear  and  cool. 
Clear  and  cool;  2  p.  m.,  clear  and  warm;  9  p. 
in.,  clear  and  cool. 

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METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS] 


583 


Daily  remarks  on  the  weather. 

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584  METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 

Summary  of  Barometric  and  Temperature  Observations  at  Fort  Benton. 


Date. 

Itarometric  means  corrected. 

Means  and  extremes  of  temperature. 

Amount  of  rain 
and  melted 
snow. 

7  A.  M. 

2  P.  M. 

9  1-.  M 

Mean. 

7  A.   M. 

2  P.  M. 

9  P.  M. 

Mi'.iii. 

Maximum 

Minimum. 

September,  1853,  (last  7  days) 

27.336 
.284 
.5235 

.218 
.284 
.19-2 
.192 
.203 
.173 
.170 
.290 
.260 

27.302 
.239 
.212 
.1'J3 
.232 
.135 
.141 
.150 
.111 
.104 
.229 
.202 

27.309 
.251 
.235 
.197 
.215 
.151 
.191 
162 
.103 
.097 
.249 
.198 

27.316 

.258 
.227 
.203 
.247 
.159 
.174 
.172 
.1C9 
.12t 
.256 
.220 

56.70 
47.13 
12.90 
27.16 
13.74 
18.71 
30.65 
50.33 
51.73 
63.10 
69.80 
72.10 

63.00 
61.58 
27.40 
41.32 
22.52 
36.79 
46.52 
64.87 
67.34 
77.20 
82.70 
86.61 

63.90 
50.80 
18.13 
30.52 
13.26 
24.43 
31.35 
50.40 
55.82 
64.70 
68.40 
70.57 

60.90 
53.07 
19.48 
33.00 
16.52 
26.63 
36.18 
55.20 
58.30 
68.30 
73.60 
76.43 

75 

81 
58 
60 
61 
57 
71 
81 
89 
91 
100 
98 

51 
10 
2 

0 
—24 
—6 
12 
38 
32 
49 
49 
62 

Inches. 
M.612 
0.187 
0.301 
0.000 
1.592 
3.410 
3.420 
fO.  400 
fl.100 
fO.  450 
t   - 
11    - 

March   185-4     

April    1854  

May  1854     

June   1854    

July,  1854  

August,  1854  

Mean  of  all  

27.227 

27.180 

27.192 

27.200 

Means  of  temperatur.e— spring,  49.89°  ;  summer,  72.78° ;  autumn, §  46.85° ;  winter,  28.38° ;  year,  48.72°. 
Altitude  of  Fort  Benton  from  these  observations,  2662.9  feet. 

*  For  the  last  seven  days  only. 

f  In  part,  several  rains  not  measured. 

JTwo  days  on  which  rain  fell. 

||  Four  days  on  which  rain  fell. 

§  Mean  for  September  assumed  at  68°.    See  remarks  for  notice  of  the  peculiar  temperatures  of  the  season*. 


METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS.  585 

LETTER    OF    LIEUTENANT    MULLAN,  U.  S.  A.,  TO    GOVERNOR  I.  I.  STEVENS,  TRANSMITTING  METEOR 
OLOGICAL    REGISTER    KEPT    IN    THE    ST.  MARY's    VALLEY. 

OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  December  17,  1854. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  herewith  to  transmit  a  Meteorological  Register  kept  in  the  St.  Mary's 
valley  from  the  8th  of  October,  1853,  to  18th  of  September,  1854.  I  have,  during  the  last  year, 
submitted  for  your  perusal  monthly  registers  from  time  to  time,  which  have  been  transcripts  from 
this  register.  You  will  find  the  register  full  as  to  details,  and  which  renders  unnecessary  my  re 
ferring  to  it  except  in  a  general  manner.  It  was  found  in  the  St.  Mary's  valley  that  snow  did 
not  fall  during  the  last  winter  to  a  greater  depth  than  from  three  to  four  inches,  after  several  suc 
cessive  falls  of  snow.  The  winter,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  days  in  December  and  January, 
was  remarkably  mild.  During  those  days,  however,  the  cold  was  intense.  The  thermometer  in 
the  St.  Mary's  valley  ranged  as  low  as  twenty-eight  degrees  below  zero.  During  my  examina 
tions  through  the  mountains — and  I  was  travelling  every  month  except  February — I  did  not  find  the 
snow  at  any  point  deeper  than  fifteen  inches,  and  this  was  on  the  summits  of  the  Snake  river 
mountains  on  the  south,  in  December  and  January,  and  the  summits  of  the  main  divide  of  the 
Rocky  range  in  March.  Though,  I  must  say,  I  crossed  at  the  most  favorable  points  of  the  two 
ranges,  I  am  convinced  that  at  other  points  the  snow  fell  to  much  greater  depths ;  but,  of  course, 
at  points  never  travelled  in  the  winter  season. 

The  points  I  refer  to  are  the  passes  which  I  deem  practicable  for  travelling  with  horses  at  all 
seasons,  even  mid-winter. 

If  the  results  of  last  winter  are  taken  as  data,  I  consider  the  problem  of  the  snows  of  the 
mountains  solved.  Still  I  deem  it  essentially  necessary,  in  view  of  the  great  interests  depending 
upon  this  important  problem,  that  further  and  minute  observations  should  be  made  at  different 
points  in  the  mountains.  I  might  suggest,  in  addition  to  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  the  Coeur  d'Alene 
mission,  the  Upper  Pend  d'Oreille  mission,  the  Spokane  prairie,  at  the  ranche  of  Messrs.  Owen 
and  Gibson,  and  also  at  Forts  Benton  and  Wall  ah -Wallah.  The  latter  is  not  essentially  neces 
sary,  but  would  afford  a  great  facility  and  means  of  comparison  with  points  in  the  mountains.  A 
thermometer,  with  a  register,  might  be  kept  at  Mr.  Craig's,  a  man  of  sufficient  intelligence,  and 
who,  I  have  no  doubt,  would  feel  an  interest  in  the  matter  ;  together  with  the  different  Indian 
agencies  that  may  hereafter  be  established  throughout  the  territory  east  of  the  Cascade  range  of 
mountains.  Having  reported  to  you  several  times  on  the  character  of  the  winter  and  snows,  I 
deem  any  further  details  unnecessary. 

With  respect,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  MULLAN, 

Lieutenant  U.  S.  Army. 

Governor  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 

H/ 


586 


METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS. 


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METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 


587 


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588 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


Daily  remarks  on  the  weather. 

Violent  wind  last  night  ;  now  pleasant;  warm 
light  clouds;  clear  night. 
Waim,  appearance  of  snow  ;  slight  shower  at 
i  p.  in.  ;  rain  at  8  p.  in.,  mild  and  damp. 
Damp  and  foggy;  slight  rain  in  night;  slight 
showers  through  the  day. 
Heavy  frost,  pleasant,  liazy  sky;  slight  snow 
squall  at  H£  p.  m. 
Pleasant  ;  squalls  of  wind  from  SW.;  appearance 
of  snow  ;  mild. 
Heavy  frost;  pleasant,  beautiful  day  ;  pleasant 
evening. 
Heavy  frost,  pleasant;  fleecy  clouds  in  east;  fine. 

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1-incli  deep. 
Strong  SSW.  wind  for  the  last  40  hours.;  mild; 
slight  snow  squal!  at  1  p.  in. 
Mild  and  damp,  appearance  of  rain. 

Rain  begins  steadily,  mild;  snowing  at  5  p.  in.; 
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METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


589 


fei 
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Daily  remarks  on  the  weather. 

No  observations. 

Heavy  wind  all  day;  squallsof  rain  at  intervals  ; 
snow  squalls  from  NW. 
Snow  and  rain  squalls;  wind  variable:  clear 
sunset  ;  snowing  from  SW. 
Snow  £  inch  deep;  cold;  snow  drifting;  in 
tensely  cold  ;  clear. 
Pleasant;  bright  sunshine  ;  clear  and  cold. 

Pleasant;  cloudy;  light  breeze. 

Cloudy;  appearance  of  snow. 

Cloudy,  with  stiff  breeze  ;  damp  ;  clouds  in 
masses. 
Kaw,  damp  wind  ;  slight  rain  and  sleet  at  9  a. 
in.  ;  rain  and  snow. 
Pleasant  morning. 

Snowing  from  3  a.  in.  until  4  p.  m.  ;  rain  and 
snow  at  sunset. 
Snow  3  inches  deep  ;  cold  and  cloudy  ;  cold  and 
clear. 
Snowing  slowly  until  7  a.  m.  ;  2  inches  deep  ; 
cold  intense. 
Intensely  cold  ;  sunshine  a  few  moments  ;  cold. 

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METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 


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Daily  remarki*  on  the  weatner. 

Mild  morning;  pleasant;  cold  at  mjjlit. 
Clear  and  fresh  ;  milder;  clear. 
Pleasant;  mild  day  ;  pleasant. 
Cloudy  and  damp;  warmer;  clear. 
Heavy  frost;  warmer;  front  at  night. 
Heavy  frost;  cloudy;  slight  snow  squall  ;  clear. 

Slight  fall  of  snow  in  night;  mild  and  damp; 
hazy. 

Mild  and  cloudy. 

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METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 


591 


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Slight  snow  last  night  ;  cloudy;  clearing. 
Heavy  frost;  fleecy  clouds;  clear. 

Heavy  frost,  clear  ;  lowering  masses  of  cl'ds; 
snow  squall  al  3  p.  in.  ;  clear. 

Cl'dy,  snow'g  on  distant  mts.;  sudden  change 
ot  wind  toS.,  with  snow  at  and  after  9  p.m. 

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METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 


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Cool  and  squally  weather;  slight  rain. 

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METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


593 


-I 


Daily  remarks  on  tlie  weather. 

ii     1  14      n 

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Cloudy  and  cool  ;  clear  ;  heavy  shower  at  1C 
p.  in.  for  30  minutes. 

Clear  and  pleasant. 
Clear  and  warm. 
Clear  and  warm. 

Very  windy  in  morning  ;  clear  and  pleasant 
Clouds  ;  clearing  pleasant. 
Clear  and  warm. 
Clear;  p.  in.,  cloudy,  with  appearance  of  rain 
Clear  and  pleasant. 
Clear  and  pleasant  ;  eclipse  of  the  sun, 
Morning  clear;  p.  m.,  cloudy,  with  appear 
ance  of  rain  ;  slight  rain  a't  8.30  p.  m. 

SnoiB  in  night,  1J  inches;  cold  and  cloudy; 
clouds  breaking  ;  rain  at  9  p.  in. 

Cloudy  and  cool  ;  rain  at  and  after  5  p.  in. 
R.iin  until  4  p.  m.  ;  darkly  cloudy. 
Cool  and  cloudy  ;  clearing  ;  pleasant  evening. 

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594 


METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS 


•a, 


I. 

I 


Daily  remarks  on  the  weather. 

Clear  ;  thunder  storm  in  the  east  at  2  p.  m.  ; 
slight  shower  at  evening. 

Slight  showers;  heavy  thunder  showers  ill 
p.  rn.  ;  cool  and  cloudy. 

Cloudy;  pleasant;  fair. 

Clear  and  warm. 

Clear;  cloudy;  rain  at  vvening  and  during 
night. 

Clearing;  heavy  thunder  storm  from  NE.  Rt 
11  a.  m.;  rain  at  1  p.  in. 

Cloudy  and  damp;  clearing  pleasant. 
Clear  and  warm. 

Clear  and  warm  ;  cloudy  evening. 

Rain  at  9  a.  m.,  and  showers  afterward 
pleasant. 

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METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS. 


595 


Daily  remarks  on  the  weather. 

Clear  and  pleasant. 
Cool  ;  shower  at  6  a.  in.  ;  fleecy  clouds  ;  pleasant. 
Fleecy  clouds;  pleasant;  warm  and  sultry. 
Clear  mill  warm. 

Clear  and  warm. 
Cloudy  and  cool;  slight  fall  of  snow  at  10  a.  m.  for  15 
minutes;  cloudy. 

Pleasant;  clear  and  warm. 
Clear,  and  pleasant. 
Clear;  very  warm. 
Clear;  scattered  clouds  ;  warm. 
Clear  and  warm  ;  scattered  clouds. 
Pleasant  ;  warm  and  sultry. 
Pleasant;  very  warm. 
Pleasant;  scattered  clouds. 

Cool,  cloudy  morning  ;  dark  masses  of  clouds  ;  cool  wind. 
Cool  night  ;  warm  and  clear. 
Pleasant  ;  nearly  clear. 
Cloudy  and  cool  ;  heavy  rain  at  3  to  5  p.  in. 
Clear;  cloudy  and  raining  on  mountains  west  in  p.  m. 
Clear  and  warm;  cloudy  evening. 
Clear,  and  very  warm. 
Pleasant  ;  very  warm. 
Very  warm  and  sultry. 
Clear  and  very  warm. 
Clear;  cool  and  cloudy  at  evening. 
Heavy  gusts  of  south  wind  in  morning;  clear  and  warm. 
Pleasant;  clear. 
Cool  ;  clear  and  warm. 

Clear  and  cool. 

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METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

Summary  of  Meteorological  Observations  at  Fort  Pierre,  Missouri  River. 


Mean  temperatures. 

Date. 

d 
°S 

o 
a 

Remarks. 

7  a.  m. 

2  p.  m. 

9  p.  m. 

Mean. 

Maxi 

Mini-      ai 

s>> 

01 

>-> 

mum. 

mum.      * 

a 

Q 

D 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

July,  1854  

69.45 

85.  26 

76.06 

76.92 

97 

63 

7 

0 

Amount  of  rain  considerable. 

August,  1854  

71.93 

91.16 

81.33 

81.50 

108 

60 

6 

0 

Amount  of  rain  considerable.      Thermometer 

above  100°  on  6  days,  18th  to  23d,  and  28th. 

September,  1854. 

62.  33 

79.80 

69.66 

71.15 

98 

51 

8 

0 

Amount  of  rain  considerable.    Very  warm  at 

the  close  of  the  month. 

October.  1854  ... 

47.22 

72.35 

60.22 

59.78 

94 

30 

3 

0 

Amount  of  rain  small.     Cold  from  13th   to 

18th.     Warm  at  5th,  and  on  26th  to  29th. 

November,  1854.. 

30.90 

50.10 

40.66 

40.50 

'78 

10 

0 

2 

Amount  of  precipitation  very  small.     Coldest 

at  llth. 

December,  1854.. 

23.30 

40.71 

32.  90 

32.00 

61 

-i 

1 

2 

Amount  of  precipitation  very  small. 

January,  1855  

13.80 

24.  90 

19.61 

19.17 

50 

—12 

1 

4 

Amount  of  precipitation  considerable.     Be 

low  zero  3d,  4th,  7th,  13th,  and  21st   to 

23d. 

February,  1855... 

15.64 

29.38 

24.25 

22.51 

57 

—11 

1 

4 

Amount  of  precipitation  small.     Below  zero 

21st  to  27th. 

March  ,  1  855  .  .  

24.61 

46.  C6 

30.55 

35.33 

70 

2 

1 

2 

Amount  of  precipitation  very  small.     Coldest 

at  19th. 

April,  1855  

45.23 

69.36 

57.19 

57.30 

96 

22 

1 

0 

Amount  of  precipitation  very  small.     Coldest 

at  10th.     Very  warm  at  the  close. 

May,  1855  

55.74 

75.20 

63.71 

60.47 

92 

46 

8 

0 

Amount  of  precipitation  large.    Cold  at  22d 

to  24th. 

Observations  by  Fred.  Behman.    Latitude  given  as  44°  23'  23".    Altitude,  by  Nicollet,  1,450  feet. 


Summary  of  Barometric  and  Temperature  Observations  at  Columbia  Barracks,  Oregon,  from  July 

to  December,  1853,  and  for  four  months  of  1854. 


Temperatures. 

Amount  of 

Sunrise. 

9  a.  m. 

3  p.  m.            9  p.  m. 

Mean. 

Maximum. 

Minimum. 

ram. 

July,  1  853  

o 
61.33 

o 
71.60 

0                                 0 

80.  92              69.  47 

0 

70.83 

o 
91 

o 
82 

Inches. 
0.30 

August,  Ic53  .... 

56.  52 

62.  80 

74.  (50               63.  06 

64.10 

84 

43 

0.39 

September,  1853  
October,  1853  

50.  53 
46.39 

58.  57 
54.97 

70.  13              58.  47 
62.00              51.59 

59.  42 
53.74 

84 
82 

42 

28 

2.00 
3.66 

November,  1853...... 

42.  80 

46.16 

48.  S6              43.  63 

43.  57 

59 

31 

11.57 

NOTE. — The  temperature  observations  at  Columbia  Barracks  (Fort  Vancouver)  are  from  the  record  kept  at  the  military 
post.     For  use  of  the  survey,  they  were  copied  to  the  close  of  November,  1853. 


GOO 


METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 
Daily  and  Monthly  Barometric  Means  at  Columbia  Barracks,  1853. 

Observations  at  sunrise,  9  a.  in.,  3  p.  m.,and  9  p.  m.     Readings  corrected  to  32°. 


No. 

July. 

August. 

September. 

October. 

November. 

]  

30.  051 

29.818 

30.  026 

30.  185 

j>             .    

.097 

.709 

.  036 

.  151) 

3  

I_  _I 

.  037 

.891 

29.  968 

.271 

4              

29.  960 

30.  150 

.915 

.  205 

f>            

.981 

.  034 

30.  031 

29.  88  i) 

G  

.971 

29.  951 

.  049 

.816 

7  .      

30.016 

.847 

29.  897 

.913 

8            

.098 

.729 

843 

30  013 

9     

.  119 

.  757 

.652 

29.  9:54 

Id    

29.  951 

.882 

728 

709 

11  

'  .799 

30.  003 

672 

.916 

12    

.804 

29.741 

989 

6H7 

13         

924 

732 

30  075 

810 

34  

.843 

.558 

29  908 

3)  116 

15  

.782 

.  532 

924 

.  120 

16  

.919 

.  (542 

902 

29  904 

17  

907 

824 

823 

817 

18  

.  952 

30.  043 

30  009 

738 

19... 

30.  ('82 

.985 

29.  974 

137 

.772 

20  

010 

30  047 

908 

275 

821 

21  

29  822 

29  957 

.874 

164 

787 

22  

.829 

.863 

.796 

175 

30  165 

23  

30  037 

.  874 

.710 

012 

29  905 

24  

29.  989 

.873 

.  753 

29  874 

814 

25  

.  855 

.836 

.  925 

30  047 

394 

26  

.807 

.818 

.876 

29  936 

*  134 

27  

.  845 

840 

.883 

30  183 

28  

.864 

.837 

30.010 

253 

29  

.835 

.797 

29.  947 

.  198 

3d  

.980 

.  775 

.914 

080 

31  

30.  014 

.834 

235 

Monthly  mean  at  sunrise  .  

29  951 

29  940 

29  866 

30  103 

29  878 

Monthly  mean  at  9  a.  m  

29  940 

29  947 

29  854 

30  101 

29  870 

Monthly  mean  at  3  p.  m  .  .  .  

29  887 

29  836 

29  826 

30  098 

29  924 

Monthly  mean  at  9  p.  m  

29  905 

29  897 

29  842 

30  098 

29  925 

Mean  ..  

29  921 

29  917 

29  847 

30  100 

oo  ann 

Mean  for  131  days,  29.  939  inches.    Altitude  of  Columbia  Barracks,  57.  6  feet. 
*  A  remarkably  low  point,  occurring  at  all  Pacific  stations.     Two  observations  only,  at  sunrise  and  9  a.  in. 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


601 


The  barometric  observations  at  Olympia  are  of  a  barometer  noted  by  G.  W.  Stevens  as  con 
taining  air,  in  April,  1854.  They  have  a  large  zero  error,  and  the  succession  of  readings  is  often 
such  as  to  prove  that  the  errors  of  measurement  are  very  large.  The  summaries  would,  there 
fore,  give  no  valuable  data  to  judge  of  the  mean  position  of  the  barometer  then,  or  of  the  measures 
of  variation. 

The  hygrometric  observations  are  not  embraced  in  the  summary,  as  they  can  only  be  pre 
sented  accurately  in  deduction,  or  in  detailed  observations.  The  mean  differences  of  the  wet 
and  dry  bulb  are  very  small.  In  August,  1854,  the  mean  difference  at  sunrise  is  but  one  and  a 
half  degrees,  at  2  p.  m.  7.5  degrees,  at  9  p.  m.  3.2  degrees.  In  September,  1854,  these  differ 
ences  are,  for  the  respective  hours,  1.4,  4.3,  and  1.5  degrees.  These  are  the  dryest  months 
except  July.  It  will  be  seen  that  these  results  differ  largely  from  the  same  measures  east  of  the 
Cascade  range  of  mountains  and  at  Fort  Benton,  and  prove  the  coast  atmosphere  to  contain  a 
large  proportion  of  moisture  at  all  seasons.  In  the  rainy  months,  the  differences  between  the 
hygrometer  arid  the  dry  thermometer  are  very  small. 

Summary  of  Meteorological  Observations  at  Olympia,  Washington  Territory. 


Date. 

Thermometer. 

d 
'5s 

!H 
<+-i 
O 

I 

Q 

83 

£ 
U 
m 
03 
« 

Remarks. 

7  a.  m. 

2  p.m. 

9  p.m. 

Mean. 

Maxi 
mum. 

Mini 
mum. 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

April,  1854  

44.  9 

57.  1 

49.6 

50.53 

72 

34.5 

24 

o 

Profuse  and  almost  constant  rains.     Frost  on 

the  8th,  llth,  21st,  and  25th;  wind  irregu 

lar,  mainly  south  to  west  and  north,  and 

light. 

May,  1854  

48.  2 

63.2 

53.  1 

54.  80 

83 

41 

8 

8 

Irregular  and  moderate  rains.     Heavy  whits 

frost  on  13th  ;  winds  light,  and  very  irregular. 

June,  1854...  

54.  0 

64.  0 

57.  0 

58.  33 

74.5 

49 

15 

7 

Frequent  irregular  rains.  Wind  very  variable  ; 

but  few  clear  days. 

July,  1854  

55.  0 

75.  9 

64.  0         65.  00 

89.4 

45 

0 

20 

Very  slight   rain  on  15th  ;  winds  north  and 

northwest  mainly,  light  ;  mostly  clear  from 

7th  to  27th. 

August,  1854  

55.5 

74.2 

65.  5         65.  07 

86.5 

48 

7 

9 

1.83  inches  of  rain.     Much  cloudy  weather; 

winds  very  light  and  irregular. 

September,  1854. 

53.1 

69.0 

56.9 

59.67 

84.5 

45 

6 

8 

1.  36  inches  of  rain.     Rains  and  winds  irregu 

lar  ;  generally  cloudy. 

October,  1854  

45.3 

60.2 

48.7 

51.40 

73 

38 

13 

6 

3.  14  inches  of  rain;  rains  nearly  continuous 

from  the  20th;  winds  south  and  southeast. 

Heavy  frost  on  6th,  7th,  8th,  and  9th,  and 

on  12th  and  13th. 

November,  1854.. 

43.0 

51.9 

45.5 

46.80 

67 

32 

12 

3 

3.  91  inches  of  rain  ;  winds  principally  south 

and    southwest.     Rains    nearly   continuous 

from  17th  to  24th  ;  no  snow. 

December,  1854.. 

39.7 

46.0 

42.0 

42.57 

58 

31 

15 

3 

11.32  inches   rain;   rains   nearly  continuous 

from  20th.    A  little  snow  on  26th  ;    winds 

south  and  southwest. 

January,  1855.... 

38.9 

45.7 

40.4 

41.67 

57 

28 

18 

2 

16.  62  inches  of  ram.    Three  days  snow,  six 

inches   in   depth  on  4th  ;   winds   south  or 

southward  during  rains  and  snows. 

February,  1855*.. 

41.0 

49.7 

44.  3         45.  00 

62 

34.5 

9 

0 

Amount  of  rain  not  measured.     First  part  of 

i 

month  generally  cloudy  and  rainy. 

*  Observations  to  17th  only. 


T6/ 


602 


METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS. 


BAROMETRIC  AND  METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS,  MADE  DURING  THE  SURVEY  OF  A  LINE  FROM 
COLUMBIA  BARRACKS  TO  FORT  COLVILLE,  AND  THE  RETURN;  BY  LIEUTENANT  S.  MOWRY,  U.  S. 
ARMY. 

Comparison  of  barometers. — The  mercurial  barometers  are  designated  as  "standard,"  "No.  1" 
and  "No,  2;"  the  first  of  which  was  left  at  Columbia  Barracks  and  regularly  observed  for  nearly 
five  months.  The  mean  of  its  readings  for  this  period  gives  quite  accurately  the  known  altitude 
of  Columbia  Barracks  above  the  sea,  and  it  may  therefore  be  taken  as  without  zero  error,  though 
no  comparison  of  it  with  an  absolute  standard  exists.  Barometer  "  No.  1"  reads  so  nearly  with 
this  "  standard"  from  July  1st  to  July  18th,  the  time  of  departure,  that  no  zero  correction  need  be 
introduced.  This  barometer  is  carried  nearly  to  Fort  Okinakane.  and  may  be  used  for  all  the 
determinations  of  altitude.  Barometer  "No.  2"  differs  considerably  at  Columbia  Barracks  from 
either,  and  continues  to  differ  as  far  as  it  is  carried,  which  is  to  camp  28,  "on  the  north  branch 
of  the  Columbia,"  by  between  two  and  three  tenths  of  an  inch.  It  is  doubtless  nearly  so  much  in 
error ;  and  as  its  readings  do  no  appear  necessary  to  any  determination,  they  are  not  given  in  the 
tables. 

The  aneroid  barometers,  Nos.  9445  and  7992,  are  compared  at  Columbia  Barracks  and  used 
after  the  mercurial  instruments  are  broken.  Their  readings  are  quite  irregular,  and  Lieut.  Mowry 
places  little  confidence  in  them.  When  they  have  an  approximate  accuracy  or  possible  value, 
they  are  transcribed  with  the  journal,  but  no  altitudes  are  computed  from  them.  At  the  return  of 
the  party  they  differed  from  the  "  standard"  by  very  large  measures. 

Barometers  "  No.  1 "  and  "No.  2"  were  syphons.  It  does  not  appear  whether  the  "  standard" 
was  an  open  cistern,  (brass,)  or  Alexander's  mountain  barometer,  the  vernier  of  which  is  adjusted 
to  a  glass  column  only.  The  correction  for  temperature  is  somewhat  less  in  this  case  than  for  an 
open  cistern  with  brass  scales.  The  correction  for  brass  scales  is,  however,  applied  to  all  the 
readings  of  the  barometer  retained  at  Columbia  Barracks  as  the  "standard." 


Barometric  Readings  at  Columbia,  Barraclcs. 


Date. 

Hour. 

Standard. 

No.  1. 

Attached 
therm. 

Air  ther 
mometer. 

Wet-bulb. 

Remarks. 

July        2 

8  a.  m.  ......  . 

30.  150 

30.  198 

63 

63.9 

Fair. 

12  in  

.160 

.  170 

71 

69.8 

60.2 

Day  fine  ;  Mount  Hood  covered 

4  p  m     ... 

.  140 

233* 

74 

71.8 

61.5 

with  snow,  distinctly  visible  ; 

8  p.  in  .. 

.  130 

.126 

67 

69 

57.5 

distant  40  miles.    Mount  Jef 

3 

4  a  m  

.  150 

136 

56 

69 

58.  5 

ferson  also  visible  ;  distant  100 
miles. 
Fair. 

8  a.  in..  ...... 

.210 

.260 

60 

61 

55 

Do. 

12m  

.140 

.173 

72 

70 

59 

Do. 

4p  in.  ...... 

.•100 

.  150 

78 

79 

66 

Do. 

8  D.  m... 

.110 

.096 

74 

74.5 

61.5 

Do. 

4 

y  a  m  

.040 

.050 

64 

68 

59.5 

Do. 

12m  

.  200* 

.002* 

76 

78 

66 

Do. 

4  p.  in.  ..  

.  200* 

.  ooo*. 

86 

86 

68 

Cloudy. 

5 

8a  m    ...... 

.000* 

.241» 

62 

62 

56.5 

Do. 

]2m  

.265 

.260 

65 

65 

55 

Fair. 

4p  in    ...... 

.241 

.240 

69  5 

69.5 

58 

Do. 

J       6 

8  a.  m..  ...... 

.  260 

.218 

59  5 

60 

54 

Do. 

•* 

12m  

.220 

.224 

68  5 

68 

58 

Do. 

4p  m    ...... 

.140 

163 

78 

78 

61.5 

Do 

7 

8  a.  m  

.  000 

.000 

66  5 

70 

61.5 

Do. 

4  p.  m.  . 

29.  !)90 

30.  029 

86  5 

86 

64.5 

Do. 

8 

8  p.  m  

8  a.  in  .  ...... 

29.  980 
30.  4  1  0* 

29.  052 
30.  110 

74 
65 

74 
66 

63 

60 

Do. 
Do. 

]2m  

.  400* 

.021 

76.5 

76 

61 

Do. 

4  p.  in  .  ...... 

.040 

.(68 

83.5 

83 

66 

Do. 

8  D.  m.  . 

Ji60 

.050 

70 

70.5 

57 

Do. 

METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 
Barometric  Readings  at  Columbia  Barracks — Continued. 


603 


Date. 

Hour. 

Standard. 

No.  1. 

Attached 
therm. 

Air  ther 
mometer. 

Wet-bulb. 

Remarks. 

July  9 
10 
11 

12 
13 
14 
15 

16 

Mean  of  48 

8  a.  in.  ....... 

30.  200 
.200 
.130 
.130 
.100 
.  090 
.050 

.050 
.110 
.120 
.140 

.280 
.230 

.220 
.  140 
.100 
.060 
.030 
.140 
.140 
.120 
.100 
.080 
.050 
.000 
.000 
.120 
.100 

30.  218 
.256 
.180 
.150 
.137 
.110 
.128 

.071 
.130 
.130 
.157 

.258 
.245 

.227 
.150 
.163 
.059 
.040 
.  100 
.144 
.128 
.101 
.090 
.080 
.030 
.  003 
.101 
.104 

57.5 
68 
70.5 
66.5 
61.5 
65.5 
63.5 

57 
61.8 
58.4 
57.5 

64.2 

69.5 

63.5 

56.5 
70.5 

78 
67 
65.5 
76 
81 
74.5 
67.5 
80 
85.2 
75 
62.5 
65.7 

58 
68 
70.5 
68 
62 
65.5 
63.8 

57 
62.2 

58.5 
58.0 

64 

69 

64.5 

56.7 
70 
77.2 
68.5 
65.  5 
75.5 
80.7 
75 
68 
79 
85 
76 
62 
66 

52.5 

59 
61 
58.5 
57 
59 
57.5 

53 
57 
54.2 
55 

57 
60.2 

57 
52 
61 
62.2 
61 
59 
62.5 
65 
64 
62 
67.5 
70.2 
65.7 
59 
62 

Pleasant. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 

Do. 
Rainy;  wind  N.W. 
Rain  at  intervals  ;   quantity  .125 
inch. 
Cloudy;  wind  south. 
Rain  at  intervals. 
Cloudy;  wind  S.W. 
Rain,    with     lightning;     (very 
rare.) 
Cloudy;  south  wind. 
Cloudy  ;  amount  of  rain  in  last 
24  hours,  .175  inch. 
Smoky;  fair. 
Cloudy;  west  wind. 
Fair. 
Fair,  smoky. 
Fair. 
Do. 
Smoky;  wind  south. 
Fair. 
Fair  ;  smoky. 
Fair;  wind  west. 
Do. 
Do. 
Fair  ;  wind  north. 
Rainy  ;  wind  S.E. 
Cloudy;  wind  S.E. 

12  m  

4p  HI    ...... 

8  p.  in.  .  

8  a.  m..  .  . 

12  m  

4  p.  m    ...... 

8  a.  m.  ....... 

12  m  

4  p.  m.  ...... 

8  p.  in    ...... 

12  m  

4  p.  in.  ...... 

8p  in   ...... 

8  a.  in...  

12  m  

4  p.  m.  .  

8  p.  in.  . 

8  a.  m.  .  . 

12m  

4  p.  ni.  

8  p.  m.  .  

8  a.  m.  . 

12m  

4  p.  m.  .  

8  p.  m.  . 

8  a.  m...  

12  in.  

observations.  .. 

30.  120 

30.  130 

NOTE. — Several  of  these  observations  are  obvious  errors  of  reading.     Those  marked  *  are  rejected  in  the  comparison. 

Barometric  and  Meteorological  Observations  on  route  from  Columbia  Barracks  to  Fort  Colville. 


; 
Locality  and  date. 

Hour. 

Barometer 
No.  1. 

Attached 
therm. 

Barometer 
corrected. 

Air  ther- 
momet'r. 

Wind. 

Remarks. 

First  Plain,  Camp  No.  1. 
July     20               

Sunrise    .  . 

30.  040 

62.5 

29.  976 

w  

Two  miles    from    Columbia 

20             

8  a  m    ...... 

.000 

73.4 

.880 

73.5 

Xrr                         : 

barracks. 
Smoky. 

20 

29  991 

77 

.861 

77 

w  

Fair. 

20 

10  a  m       . 

99  1 

78 

.858 

79.5 

w  

Fair. 

20                  ... 

12  m.     . 

999 

82.5 

.855 

81 

w  

Pleasant. 

20 

30  003 

85 

852 

83  5 

w  

Pleasant. 

20 

29  970 

88  5 

.810 

88.5 

NE  

Fair. 

20  

20 

3  p.  m  

.938 
959 

89.5 
87  5 

.775 
801 

88.5 
83 

NB  

NE... 

Fair. 
Fair. 

20 

.890 

80  5 

751 

79 

NE  

Fair. 

20 

'  855 

76  5 

727 

76  5 

NE  

Fair. 

£0 

958 

73 

839 

72 

NE  

Pleasant. 

21       

Sunrise.  .  ..... 

.920 

50.5 

•      .861 

50 

NE  

Fair. 

21 

850 

67  5 

746 

60 

NE  

Fair. 

29.  828 

74.6 

Camp  No.  2,  Callissis  or 
Fourth  Plain. 

July     21 

30  000 

98 

09  gj4 

93  5 

W 

i 
Very  clear  and  dry. 

21 

5  t).  ui  . 

29.  797 

\  98 

.612 

99 

W.. 

i  Very  clear  and  dry. 

604 


METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS. 
Barometric  and  Meteorological  Observations — Continued. 


Locality  and  date.                 Hour. 

Barometer 
No.  1. 

Attached  Barometer  Air  ther- 
therm.     corrected,  momet'r 

Wind. 

Remarks. 

July    21  f.  6p.m  
21                    7  p.  in  

29.  754 
.758 
.712 
.742 
.764 
.723 
.721 
.826 
.  900 

94 

88 
81.5 
65 

69 
73 

87 
91 
84 
53.5 
63.5 
78 
86.5 
84.3 
76.2 
49.5 

29.  580 
.600 
.571 
.645 
.  656 
.605 
.566 
.660 
.751 
.804 
.847 
.825 
.793 
.768 
.785 
.824 

93 

83 
81 
66 
69 
75 
87 
90 
85 
54.2 
63.7 
79.8 
86.5 
84.2 
77.5 
51 

SW  

Very  clear  and  dry. 
Pleasant. 
Pleasant. 
Cloudy. 
Clear;  smoky. 
Clear;  smoky. 
Few  clouds. 
Few  clouds. 
Fair. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Pleasant;  smoky. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Foggy. 

Clear. 
Fair. 
Fair. 

Foggy. 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Smoky. 
Smoky. 
Heavy  dew;  clear. 
Clear. 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Foggy. 
Smoky. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Pleasant. 
Fair;  heavy  dew. 
Fair;  smoky. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Foggy,    f  Temperature       of 
Fair.             stream  at  Camp 
Fair.      ^      5,  Yahkotl  plain, 
Fair.             at  9  a.  m.,60°; 
Fair.       1     at  sunrise,  59°. 
Fair;  smoky. 
Fair. 
Cloudy. 

SW  

21                           8  j>.  ni  

0 

s  

s  

22                     .  9  a.  in  

sw  

22  ,  12m  
22  3p.in  
22                    9  p.  m  

0 

sw  

NW  

23                 .  Sunrise.  

.870 
.940 
.958 
.948 
.918 
.912 
.880 

NW  

23            8  a.  m  

NW  

23              12m  

NW  

23  3p.m  
23     6  p.  m  

SW  
NW  

23  7i|  p.  m  

NW  

24  ...............    Sunrise  . 

0 

w  

29.  706 

79.3 

Camp  McClellan,  No.  3. 
July    24  ................    Ip  in.. 

29.  940 

.868 
.781 
30.  300* 

83 
87 
67.5 
45.5 

29.  794 
.712 
.677 
30.  254 

83 
86.5 
66.3 
46 

24  5  p.  in  
24  7.J  p.  m  

25  ..  Sunrise.  . 

NW  

NW  

NE  

Mean  .......... 

NW  

29.  723 

78.6 

Camp  No.  4. 

July    25  I  7  p.  m  

26...  .............    Sunrise  ... 

29.  530 
.  474 
.552 
.  553 

66.5 
45.5 
79.5 

88.5 
100 
86 
45.5 
80 

29.  433 
.429 
.418 
.395 
.328 
.323 
.517 
.438 

63 
45 
79.5 
87 
94.5 
84 
44 
74 

NW  

26  9a.m  
26  12  m 

NW  

NW   ... 

26  3p.m  
26  6  p.  m   

.516 
.474 
.562 
.574 

W  

0 

w 

27  ....  ....  ....  ....;  Sunrise  ...... 

27  8a.m  
Mean  .....  :  ...  

w  

sw  

29.410 

72 

Camp  No.  5. 

July    27  3  p.  m  
27  6p.  m  

23....'..  ....  ......    Sunrise..  



29.  352 
.312 
.304 
.420 
.410 
.364 
.388 
.270 
.332 

.350 
.288 
.312 
.370 
.396 
.402 
.384 
.360 
.350 
.380 

86 
72 
45.5 
75.5 
85 
86 
71.5 
44.5 
73.5 
81        1 
85.  5 
71.5 
59.2 
47.7 
61.7 
69.5 
77.5 
79.2 
70 
57.5 
54.5 

29.  202 
.198 
.  253 
.297 
.261 
.213 
.275 
.  228 
.264 
.240 
.908 
.237 
.208 
.261 
.283 
.288 
.273 
.  250 
.251 
.274 
.312 

84 
71 
46.2 
74.8 
83 
84.5 
70.5 
45.5 
71.7 
79.7 
83 
71 
59        i 
46.8 
61.5 
69 
77 
79.5 
69 
57.5 
54 

s  

sw.  .    . 

23  9  a.  m  
28  12  m  .-  — 

sw  

SE  

28  ,  i  3p.m  
28  6p.  m  
29..  Sunrise  .. 
29  9  a.  m  

s  

0 

sw  

SE  

*&)      ......              '12  in.... 

29  3p.m  

0 
W 

29  6  p.  m   ... 

29  9  p.  m  

w  . 

30  Sunrise.. 

w 

30  7a.m  
30  9a.  m  

30  12  m.     .. 

sw  

sw  

0 

s   

30  ..;  3  p.  m  
30..  6  p.  in  .  .  
30  9p.  m  

31..  ........  .„„„..•  Sunrise  ..... 

s  

s  

SE 

Mean  

29.  251 

68.5 

METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATION  3. 
Barometric  and  Meteorological  Observations — Continued. 


605 


Locality  and  date. 

Hour. 

Barometer 
No.  1. 

A.ttaclied  Barometer  Air  ther- 
therm.  ,  corrected,  momet'r. 

| 

Wind. 

Remarks. 

Camp  No.  6. 
July     31      

12  m  

29.  678 
.658 
.596 
.588 
.580 
.560 
.640 
.642 

72.2 

76.5 
66 
61.7 
54.7 
38.5 
51.5 
56 

29.  562 
.531 
.497 
.500 
.510 
.531 
.579 
.569 

72.7 

76 
65 
61.5 
54.8 
39 
51 
54.5 

SW  

Fair. 
Fair;  smoky. 
Fair. 

Fair. 
Smoky;  clouds. 
Foggy;  heavy  dew. 
Foggy. 
Fair. 

Clear. 
Fair:  smoky. 
Fair;  smoky. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 

Fair. 
Clear. 
Light  dew  ;  foggy. 
Slight  fog. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 

:  Foggy. 
!  Foggy. 
Fair. 

31  
31  
31                    

3  p.  in  
6  p.  m  

7^p  m   .. 

sw  

0 
SE  

31  

AllfiT            1 

9  p.  m  

Sunrise.  ...... 

SE  

SE  

1  
1  

7  a.  in  
8  a.  m  

SE  

SE  

s  

29.  535 

59.3 

Camp  No.  7. 

Aug.       1  

1 

5  p.  m  

7  r>    in  _  . 

29.  584 
.610 
.622 
.686 
.634 

66 
65.  5 
59.7 
45 
54.4 

29.  485 
.512 
.539 
.642 
.566 

68 
68 
59.5 

48.2 
55 

0 

s  

1  9  p.  in  

s  . 

2         7  a.  in  

s  

Mean        -    ... 

SE  

29.  549 

59.7 

Camp  No.  8. 

Aug.      2  
2  
2  
3         

3  p.  m  
6  p.  m  
9  p.m  

Sunrise  ...... 

29.  790 
.766 
30.  320* 
29.  744 
.744 
.758 
.  764 

71.2 

67.2 
59.5 
49.7 
53 
54.5 
58.5 

29.  677 
.663 
.  235* 
.686 
.679 
.690 
.684 

69.5 
67 
59 
49.5 
53 
54.5 
57.7 

NE  

NW  

0 
0 
0 
0 

w  
w  
w  

0 

w  

SE  

3  
3  

6  a.  m  — 
7  a.  m  . 

8  a.  m  

29.  680 

56.9 

Camp  No.  9. 
Aug.       3  

o 

5  p.m  

6  n.  in  

1 

29.  400 
.368 
.362 
.594 
.402 
.394 

77.5 
67.7 
63.5 
58 
48 
50 
59 

29.271 
.  .264 
.270 
.516 
.350 
.337 
.350 

76.5 
67.2 
63.2 

58 
47 
49.5 

58.5 

3  7n.m  

4                 

9  p.  m  

Sunrise  ...... 

4 

4                

7  a.  m..  .  

.430 

SE  

s  

29.  337 

60 

Camp  No.  10. 
Aug.      4  

5 

7  p.m  — 
9  p.  m  

Sunrise.  ...... 

29.  228 
.208 
.228 
.320 

71.5 
61 

48.5 
52.5 

29.115 
.123 
.175 
.257 

71 
61.7 
49 
53 

s  

s  

5            

7  a.  m  

s  

sw  
sw  
s  

29.  167         58.  7 

Camp  No.  11. 
Aug.      5  
5  

3  p.  m  

5  p.  in.  .  

27.  102 
.190 
.120 
.131 
.086 
.112 
.124 

72.5 

69.2 
54 
49 
43.5 
55 
62 

26.  996 

27.  091 
.058 
.081 
.050 
.048 
.049 

72 
69.2 
55 
49 
I     44.5 
1     55 
|     59.  5 

7  p.  m  

9  T).  m._  . 

s  

6  Sunrise  

(5                   .  7a.m..  

s  

0 
NW  

8  a.  m  

27.  053         57.  7 

606 


W  3TEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 
Barometric  and  Meteorological  Observations — Continued. 


Locality  and  date.                 Hour.           Barometer  Attached 
No.  J.        therm. 

Barometer  Air  ther- 
corrected.  momet'r. 

i 

Wind. 

Remarks. 

Camp  No.  12. 

Aug.      6  
6  

6  

y 

5  p.  m  
7  p.  m  
9  p.  m  

Sunrise... 

26.  960 
.856 
.860 
.864 
.860 
.970 
.914 
.880 
.878 
.874 
.900 
.904 

66 
52.5 
44.5 
51.5 
52 
77.5 
58.5 
52.5 
48 
41.5 
44.5 
50.5 

26.  870 
.799 
.822 
.810 
.803 
.852 
.842 
.822 
.831 
.843 
.862 
.851 

64.5 
52 

45.7 
51.5 
53 
76.5 
57.  5 
53 
48 
42 
44 
51.7 

W  
0 
W  
W  
0 
W  
W  
NW  
0 
W  
W  
NW  

s  

Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Raining. 
Misty  rain. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Clear. 
Clear. 
Pleasant;  clouds. 
Pleasant. 
Pleasant. 
Clear. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Clear. 
Fair. 
Pleasant  ;  cumulous  clouds 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 

Fair;  clouds. 
Pleasant. 
Cloudy. 
Pleasant. 

Pleasant;  clouds. 
Pleasant. 
Pleasant. 
Pleasant. 
Pleasant;  clouds. 
Cloudy. 

Pleasant;  smoky. 
Pleasant. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 

7  8  a.  m  
7                      1-2  m  

7  

7  

7 

3  p.  m  
6  p.  m  

7  n.  m... 

7       1  9  D.  m  

8      

5  a.  m  
7  a.  m  

Mean  ......... 

26.  834 

53.3 

Camp  No.  13. 

Aug.      8  
8  

g 

4  p.m  
5  p.  m  

7  n.  in  

26.  020 
.028 
25.  998 
26.  002 
.014 
.066 
.070 
.116 
.090 
.070 
.  050 
.016 
.022 
.036 
.022 
.020 
25.  930 
.916 
.888 
.896 

45 
44.5 
40 
39 
39.5 
54 
53 
54 
59 
54 
47.8 
33 
34 
57.2 
56.3 
61 
49.5 
44 
40 
57.5 

25.  982 
.991 
.971 
.978 
.989 
26.  007 
.013 
.057 
.019 
.011 
.005 
25.  999 
26.  009 
25.  970 
.958 
.945 
.880 
.880 
.861 
.829 

45 
45 
40 
39 
39.7 
50 
53.2 
54.  5 
59 
52.5 
47.7 
38 
34 
54.5 
55.7 
60 
50 
44.5 
41.2 
56 

s  

s 

8  9  p.m  

9  ...  .  Sunrise  . 

s  

N. 

9  7  a.  m  

N  

9  9  a.  m  

N  

9                  .               12  m 

NW  
NW  

0 

9  i  3p.m  
9      6p.in  

9         7  p.m  

S 

9  9p.m  

s  

10  ,  5a.m  

N.  . 

10         7  a.  m  

N- 

10      9  a.  m  

NE 

10  i  12m  

NE 

10  7p.m  
10  !  9p.m  

11  ..                                 .  ;    Siinriso  ._ 

W  

0 
E 

11  

7  a.  m..  ..  

Mean  ......... 

SE  

25.  968 

48 

Camp  No.  14. 

Aug.    11  
11  

7  p.m  
9  p.m  

27.  730 

.834 
.  850 
.820 

62 
53 
43 
55 

27.  647 
.774 
.814 
.754 

62 
53 
43 
54 

SE.  . 

12  

(Sunrise..  ..  

W  
W  

sw  
sw  
sw  
sw  

s 

12  

7  a.  m  .  

27.  747 

53 

Camp  No.  15. 
Aue     12 

3  p.  m.  .  . 

28.  046 
.  002 
27.  998 
.994 
.970 
28.082 

81 
68 
65.2 
56.5 
51 
57 

27.  915 
.903 
.914 
.924 
.914 
28.  Oil 

82 
67.5 
65.5 
57 
53 
71 

12  

6  p.  m..  . 

12  

7  p.  m.  ....... 

12  

13 

9  p.  in  

SnnriRW  . 

13      .                                   7  A.m.    ... 

g 

Mean  .... 

W  

sw  

sw  

0 

sw  

SE  

27.  931) 

66 

Camp  No.  16. 
Aug.    13  
13  

3  p.  in  

6  p  m.  ....... 

28.  192 
.334 
.260 
27.  950* 
.  606* 
28.070 

80 
72 
68 
62.5 
37 
40.5 

28.  063 
.225 
.161 
.865 

.585 
.040 

78,7 
71.5 
68 
62.5 
39 
42 

13  
13  
14  

7  p.  in  
9  p.  m  

Sunrise  

14  

Mean 

6  a.m  

28.  122         65 

METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS. 
Barometric  and  Meteorological  Observations — Continued. 


607 


Locality  and  date. 

Hour. 

Barometer  Attached  Barometer  Air  ther- 
No.  1.        therm,     corrected,  momet'r. 

Wind. 

Remarks. 

Camp  No.  17. 

Aug.     14  
14  
14  

3  p.  m  
6  p.  m  

9  p.  in.  ....... 

27.190 
.344 

.308 
.290 
.300 

81 
72 
50 
35 
38 

27.  066 
.239 
.255 
.274 
.277 

81.4 
71.5 
50.5 
35.5 
38 

N  
W  

w  

E  

Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 

Fair;  smoky. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair  ;  smoky. 
Fine  ;  smoky. 

Pleasant. 
Pleasant. 
Pleasant. 
Fair  ;  slight  dew. 
Fair. 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Clear. 
Rainy. 
Light  rain. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy  and  rainy. 
Fair  ;  heavy  dew. 
Fair. 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair  ;  smoky. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair;  smoky. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 

15  

Sunrise.  ..... 

15  

Mean        .  .  .... 

6  a.  m  

E  

W  

27.  222         55.  4 

Camp  No.  18. 

Aug.    15  
15  
15  
16  .•  

3  p.m  
6  p.  m  
9  p.  m  

Sunrise...  .... 

27.  546" 
26.  776 

.770 

.872 
.772 

83.5 
67 
57 
55 
55.5 

27.411 

.684 
.701 
.808 
.707 

83.5 

67 
57 
55       . 
56 

NW  

0 

w  

16  

6  a  m..  ...... 

w  

sw  

27.  725     i    58.  7 

Camp  No.  19. 

5p  m  ...... 

28.  684 
.680 
.680 
.640 
.734 

81.2 
70.5 
62 
39 
66.5 

28.  550 
.573 
.595 
.613 
.637 

80.7 
71 
61.5 
39 
67 

16  
16  

7  p.  m  
9  p.  m  

sw  

sw  

17         

Sunrise  ...... 

w  

17          .           ... 

7a  m  ..  ... 

w  

w  

28.  594 

63.8 

Camp  No.  20,  (Atahnam 
river,  near  the  Yaldma.) 
Aug.     17  
17  
18      

6  p.  m  
9  p.  m  

27.  996 
.972 
.958 
.882 
28.  040 
.084 
.054 
.076 
.036 
.068 
.074 
.076 
.062 
.050 

1OC 

63.5 

48 
49.5 
53 
76.5 
76 
54.5 
45.5 
47 
56 
69 
58.5 
55.  5 
37 
53 

27.  909 
.923 
.906 
.821 
.920 
.965 
.989 
28.  033 
r  27.  990 
.999 
.973 
28.001 
27.  995 
28.  029 
.065 

63.2 
48 
49.5 
53 
76 
70 
54 
45 
46.5 
55 
65 
58 
55 
37 
55 

w  

sw  

18 

7  a  m.  ....... 

E  

18  
18  
18  
18  
19  
19 

9  a.  in  
3  p.  m  
6  p.  ni  
9  p.m  
5  a.  m  
9a  m.  ...... 

E  

W  

W  

w  

w  

w  

19     

12  m  

NW  

19  
19  

20 

3p.m  
6  p.  m  — 

Sunrise..  .  .... 

W  

W  

W  

20 

7a  m  ...... 

w  

W  

27.  968         55.  3 

Camp  No.  21. 
Aug.    20  
21  
21  
21     

7  p.  m  
5  a.  m  
9  a.  m  
12  m  

28.  330 
.340 
.402 
.416 
.382 
.084* 
.372 
.326 
.450 
.442 
.370 
.386 
.420  a 
.692 
.670 
.539 
.548 
.566 

54.5 

48.5 
69 
79.5 
81.5 
55.1 
58.5 
50.5 
80 
86 
65 
62 
56 
76 
90 
54 
48 
84 

28.  264 
.290 
.300 
.287 
.248 
.018 
.296 
.270 
.319 
.296 
.277 
.301 
.350 
.571 
.514 
.474 
.498 
.425 

57.5 

48.5 
70 
79 
78.5 
55 
58 
50 
82 
83.5 
65 
62 
56 
75 
90 
54.5 
48 
83.5 

w  

w  

w  

21  
21  

21 

3p.m  
6  p.  m  

9  n.  in.  - 

E  

W  

W..  

22                     .-            Sunrise  ...... 

E  

22  9a.m  

22          .               .        12  m.  

E    

E  

22  6p.m  
22  9p.m  
23                  ..    Sunrise....... 

W  

W  

w  

23  9  a.  m  

SE  

23  
23  
24       

3  p.  m  
9  p.  m  

Sunrise  ..  

E  

0 

w  

24.. 

9  a.  in... 

w... 

a  The  observations  of  barometer  from  this  date  to  29th  August  are  of  No.  2,  and  are  not  used  in  computation. 


608 


METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 
Barometric  and  Meteorological  Observations — Continued. 


Locality  aud  date.                 Hour. 

Barometer  Attache 
No.   1.        therm. 

Barometer 
corrected. 

Air  ther- 
momet'r. 

Wind. 

Remarks. 

Aug.    24  3p.in  
24  -1  9  p.  m  

28.  496 
.518 
.472 
.546 
.498 
.  442 
.478 
.422 
.450 
.382 
.  200 
.450 
.402 
.-352 
.394 
.462 
.456 
.530 
.530 
.604 
.592 
.280 
.194 
.184 
.224 
.194 
.118 
.030 
27.  940 
.966 
.  942 
28.  050 
.138 
.138 
.168 
.206 
.250 
.260 
.256 
.214 
.154 
.090 
.150 
.174 
.202 
.166 
.148 
.138 
.124 

100  (?) 
57 
59 
82 
78 
64 
58 
82 
90 
72 
64 
82 
88 
55.5 
54 
7£ 
84 
64 
52.5 
74 
72.5 
64 
54 
62 
80 
92 
97 
78 
76 
53.5 
51 
51.5 
67 
54 
47.5 
41 
53 
63 
71.5 
68 
53 
49.5 
52 
59 
66 
62.5 
55 
50 
52 

28.  315 
.  445 
.394 
.410 
.372 
.352 
.403 
.286 
.294 
.272 
.110 
.314 
.251 
.283 
.  329 
.344 
.315 
.440 
.469 
.488 
.480 
.160 
.130 
.100 
.094 
.035 
27.  947 
.906 
.821 
.904 
.886 
.992 
28.  042 
.074 
.120 
.175 
.188 
.174 
.148 
.114 
.093 
.038 
.091 
.098 
.108 
.081 
.082 
.084 
.065 

100  (?) 
57 
58 
81 
78.5 
65 
58.5 
81 
88 
72 
65 
80 
88 
56 
54 
73 
84 
64 
52 
72 
73 
64 
54 
62.5 
80 
91 
97 
78 
76 
54 
51 
52 
65 
54 
48 
41 
53 
62.5 
71 
67 
53.5 
49 
52 
59 
65 
62.5 
85 
52 
52 

sw  

Pleasant. 
Pleasant. 
Clear. 
Fair. 

Pleasant. 
Pleasant. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Pleasant. 
Pleasant. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Cumulous  clouds. 
Cumulous  clouds. 
Fair. 
Clouds. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Fair;  cumuli. 
Pleasant. 
Pleasant. 
Clear. 
Clear. 
Clear. 
Fair. 
Pleasant. 
Cumulous  clouds. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Rainy. 
Driving  rain  ;  high  wind. 
Rainy. 
Cloudy  ;  pleasant. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Pleasant;  clouds. 
Pleasant;  clouds. 
Pleasant;  clouds. 
Pleasant;  clouds. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Clear. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy  ;  rainy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Clear. 
Clear. 
Fair  ;  clouds. 
Fair  ;  clouds. 
Fair;  clouds. 
Fair  ;  clouds. 
Fair  ;  clouds. 
Fair  ;  clouds. 
Fair  ;  clouds. 

0 
W  

25  9  a.  111  
25  3p.m  
25  9p.m  
og                    ..  Sunrise.  

w  

E  

0 
SE  

26          .     9  a.  m  

E  

26  3p.ui  
26  9  p.  m  

27            Sunrise  

SE  

0 

w  

27  9  a.  m  
27  3p.ru  
27  9p.in  
28  ..  .  ..  Sunrise  

w  

SE  

w  

NW  
N  

28  9am  
28  3p.m  
28            9  p  in    . 

NE  

SW 

'_'.'.-.,-.  .  Sunrise  

E    

29  9  a.  in  

E  

29  3p.m  
29  9  p.  in  

SE  

0 
W  

30                  .......    Sunrise  ...... 

30  7  a.  m  

W  

30  9  a.  m  

NVV  
W  

30  12m  

30  3p.m  
30                                 6  p.  in  

SW  

W  

30  9  p.  m  

W  

31         ......             Sunrise  . 

w  

31  9a.m  
31  1-2  m  

w  

NW  
NW  
NW  
NW  
W  

31  3  p.  m  

31  6  p.  m  

31  9  p.  m  

Sept.     I......  .  Sunrise  ...... 

1  7  a.  m  
1  9  a.  m  
1  i  12  m. 

w  

SE  

SE  . 

1..                          .''  3  p.  in... 

NW  
NW  
NW  
W  

1  6  p.  m  
1  9p.m  
2......  .......    Sunrise...... 

2  .....                       9  a.  in    ... 

w  

2  12m  

w  

2     3  p.  m  

w  

2  6p.m  

SE  

2  9  p.  m 

SE  

3..........  Sunrise  ...... 

w  

NW  

NW  
NW  
N  

28.  131 

63.  5 

Yakima  Valley,  Camp  No. 
22. 

Sept.     3  6  p.  m  
3......  ......    9p.m.  ....... 

28.434 
.464 
.550 
.990  a 
.920 
.870 
.834 
.760 
.872 
.950 
.840 

59 
49.5 
49 
63 
70 
76 
73 
49.  5 
42.5 
67.5 
57 

28.  356 
.412 

.498 
.901 
.812 
.748 
.720 
.706 
.836 
.849 
.766 

60 
50 
49 
62 
64 
76.5 
72 
49 
42 
67 
57 

4            ......    ..'•  Sunrise  ...... 

4  !  7  a.  m  
4  !  10  a.  m  

4                               '  12  m 

NW  
N  

4  3p.in  
4  9  p.  m  
5......  ...    Sunrise  ...... 

N  

0 
NW  
N    

5  9  a.  m  

5...                                3  n.  m.  .  . 

NE.. 

n  Barometer  "No.  2,"  not  used  in  computation,  is  again  recorded  to  9  a.  in.,  September  12,  commencing  at  this  date. 


METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 
Barometric  and  Meteorological  Observations — Continued. 


GOO 


Locality  and  date. 


Hour. 


Barometer  Attached  Barometer  Air  ther-      Wind. 
No.  1.        therm.  !  corrected,  momet'r. 


Remarks. 


Sept,     5  9  p.  in  i>8.  748 

42 

33  5 

28.714 
.669 

41.5 
33 

0 
E  

Fair  ;  clouds. 
Clear  ;  slight  dew 

6  9  a  in                :           870 

70 

763 

69 

<  NE  

Fair. 

6                                   *j  p  m                          800 

78 

673 

77 

N    

Fair. 

G  9p   m                        .608 

42.5 

.  570 

43 

N    

Fair. 

32 

.631 

32 

NE  

Fair. 

7  i  q  a  m                          880 

49  5 

826 

50 

NE  

Clear. 

7  3pm    .                    .  962 

81 

.  826 

80 

E  

Clear. 

7  9pm    .           '           168 

48 

418 

48 

SE  

Pleasant;  cumuli 

8..     .            Sunrise                        610 

44 

570 

44 

w  

Cloudy. 

fS  9am                '           754 

75.5 

632 

72 

w  

Cloudy. 

8  3pm               ;          650 

75 

531 

75 

w  

Cloudy. 

8  9pm                       .  568 

44 

.528 

44 

0 

Clear. 

9  .  _  ......    Sunrise              ''           550 

25 

.  559 

32 

N  

Clear;  slight  dew 

9  9  a  m                        .982 

72.5 

.870 

72 

NE  

Fair. 

9  3p   m                i         .594 

77 

.  470 

76 

SE  

Clear. 

9  9pm                          566 

56 

490 

56 

SE.. 

Fair. 

10.  ...............    Sunrise                      .5*26 

30.5 

.521 

30 

sw  

Clear. 

]0  9  a  m                          660 

73 

556 

68 

sw.. 

Clear. 

11)  3p   m                        .626 

69.5 

.522 

69 

sw  

Clear. 

10  9  p   in                          540 

48 

.490 

47.5 

o 

Clear. 

43 

.507 

42 

sw  

Clear. 

11  9am                        .820 

71.5 

.708 

71 

sw  

Clear. 

]1  .  ........    3  p   in                        .7  26 

81 

.591 

79 

w  

Clear;  smoky 

11  7pm                        .690 

52 

.630 

51 

0 

Fair;  clouds 

32 

.647 

32.5 

sw  

Fair. 

12                                 9  a  in                       .648 

64 

.559 

63 

sw..  .. 

Fair. 

]2  6pm                       .288a 

55 

.  221 

55 

SE  

Fair. 

12                     .           9  p  in                        264 

45 

.222 

45.5 

SE  

Fair. 

13  Sunrise             [        .224 

37.5 

.202 

38 

sw  

Fair  ;  slight  dew 

13                                 9  a  in                       .250 

71 

.143 

69 

SE  

Fair. 

13  12m...                   .210 

83 

.073 

81 

SE  

Cloudy. 

13  ,    3pm                       .134 

76 

.014 

75 

S  

Cloudy. 

13  6pm                        .  114 

64 

.025 

64 

s  

Rainy. 

13                               i  9  p  m                       .216 

58 

.  142 

58.5 

s  

Rain  till  7^  p  in 

14...     .              .     .    Sunrise                      .  140 

52.5 

.080 

52 

w  

Cloudy  ;  pleasant. 

14                                   9  a  m                        .  172 

70 

.067 

67 

sw  

Clouds  ;  fair 

14  12m                          .124 

68.5 

.024 

67 

SE  

Cloudy. 

14                                   3pm                          050 

61 

27  967 

60 

SE  

Cloudy 

14                                   6  p  m                        .  014 

56 

.945 

56 

Cloudy. 

14                   .   .            9pm                        .  062 

53 

28.  001 

54 

Cloudy. 

15......         .   .     .    Sunrise                     .020 

44 

27.  981 

44 

W  

Cloudy  ;  rain  at  6  a.  111 

15  '  9  a  m                       .  002 

61 

.921 

61 

NW  

Cloudy. 

15  12m                          .072 

62.5 

.987 

62 

NW  

Cloudy;  rain  at  12  m. 

15  3  p.  m    f>20 

59 

.952 

59 

NW  

Cloudy. 

15                                   6  p   m                        .  132 

52 

28.  073 

52 

NW  

Cloudy  ;  strong  wind 

16          .                       Sunrise                 27.  8886 

49 

27.  837 

49 

W  

Cloudy. 

16  9  a  in                   28.  148 

59 

28.  072 

59 

W  

Cloudy. 

16  12m    .134 

58 

.060 

58 

N  

Cloudy. 

16     ..                    .    3  p  m                       .146 

58 

.072 

58 

NW  

Cloudy  ;  rain  at  3^  p.  m. 

16                                   6  p  in                          170 

49 

.129 

49 

NW  

Clear. 

16  i  9  p.  m  020 

46.5 

27.  983 

46 

NW  

Clear. 

17......                       Sunrise  .....          .  158 

31 

28.  152 

31 

N  

Clear. 

17                                 9  a  in           ..!        .288 

68.5 

.186 

68.5 

NE  

Clouds  ;  fair. 

17     ...                        12m    !         .312 

64     • 

.222 

62.5 

N  

Clouds  ;  fair. 

17                                   3pm                        .  100 

56.  5 

.030 

56.7 

N  

Clouds  ;  fair. 

17                 ..          .      G  p.  m    .  018 

48 

27.  969 

48 

NW  

Clouds;  fair. 

17  9p.m  092 

1H                                   Sunrise  .270 

45 
30.5 

28.  051 
.265 

44.5 
31 

NW  
E  

Clear. 
Clear. 

18             .                    9am.                   .6566 

60 

.575 

61 

E  

Clear. 

]8                    12  in  6466 

71 

.537 

71 

•pi 

Clear. 

18                                   '5  p  in                          6566 

69 

.552 

69 

SE  

Clear 

18          6  p.  in  4526 

59 

.374 

59 

SE  

Clear. 

19                                 Sunrise  .5826 

29.5 

.580 

29 

N  

Fair. 

19.                9  a.  m  7166 

71 

.607 

N  

Fair. 

28.  103 

51.4 

a  Barometer  No.  1  resumed. 

6  This  and  the  remaining  barometric  readings  at  Camp  22  have  been  rejected,  as  without  doubt  erroneous. 


610 


METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS. 
Barometric  and  Meteorological  Observations — Continued. 


Locality  and  date. 

Hour. 

Barometer  Attached 
No.  1.        therm. 

Barometer  Air  ther- 
corrected.  momet'r. 

Wind. 

Remarks. 

Camp  No.  23. 

Sept.    19  

20 

6  p.  m  

27.  760 
.714 

57.5 
46 

27.  687     ! 
.670     ' 

57.5 
46 

N  

Clear. 
Clear. 

Clear. 
Clear. 
Fair. 

Clear. 
Clear. 
Clouds  ;  fair. 
Clouds;  fair. 
Clouds  ;  fair. 
Clouds  ;  fair. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 

Rain  at  5£  p.m.,  with  thunder. 
Heavy  rain  till  9  a.  m. 

Cloudy. 
Fair. 

Clouds;  fair, 
Fair. 

Fair. 

Clear. 

Clear. 
Fair. 
Clear;  aurora  borealfs. 
I  Clear  ;  heavy  dew. 

N  

N  

27.  678 

51.7 

Camp  No.  24. 
Sjpt    20       

6  p.  m  

28.  576 
.550 
.640 

65 
51.5 
67.5 

28.  483 
.492 
.540 

65 
51.5 

63 

21        

W  

21  

Mean        ..... 

8  a.  m  

sw  

sw  

28.  172 

61.5 

Camp  No.  25. 

Sept.   21  
21  
22  

3  p.  m  
6  p.  m  

Sunrise  

29.  368 
.300 
.299 
.370 
.384 
.310 
.296 
.300 

86.5 
71 
54.5 
73.5 

87 
87 
80.5 

84 

29.  217 
.188 
.239 
.251 
.228 
.154 
.159 
.155 

86 
70 
54 
72 

87 
87 
80 
59 

sw  

NW  

22  
22  

9  a.  m  
12  m  ..w  

NW  

NW  

22  
22  
23                

3  p.  rn  
6  p.  m  

Sunrise  ...... 

NW  

NW  

i 
W 

Mean  

29.  199 

74.5 

Camp  No.  26,  north  branch 
of  Columbia  river. 

Sept.    23  
24          

6  p.  m  

Sunrise  ...... 

29.  024 
.074 

66.5 
56 

28.  925 
29.  003 

66.5 
56 

w  

w  

28.  964 

61.2 

Camp  No.  27,  north  branch 
of  the  Columbia. 

Sept.   24  
25  

6  p.  m  

Sunrise  ...... 

28.  360* 
29.  228 

29.  300 
.440 

64 
53.5 

70 

1     48.5 

28.271 
29.  163 

64 
53 

70 

48.5 

NW 

Camp  No.  28,  north  branch 
of  the  Columbia. 

Sept.   25  
26        

6  p.  in  

• 

NW  

W  .     ... 

29.  191 

.387 

:    29.  289 

59.2 

Camp  No.  29,  north  branch 
of  the  Columbia. 

Sept.  26  
27      

6  p.  m  
Sunrise  .  .  .  . 

29.  286 
.268 

65 
43.5 

29.  190 
.229 

65 
43 

i  N    

N  

29.  209 

54 

Camp  No.  30,  Oldnahanf 
rirer. 

Sept.  27  
27  
27  
28  

3p.m....... 
6  p.  m  
9  p.  m  

Sunris6  .  .. 

i 

!    29.202 
.180 
.106 
,  226 

•    ' 

72.5 
65 
52 
,     42 

29.  088 
.085 
.045 
.191 

72 
65 
53 
41.5 

N    

N  

N  

N    

!    29.  102 

57.9 

I 

*  Observations  rejected. 


METEOROLOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS. 
Barometric  and  Meteorological  Observations — Continued. 


611 


Locality  and  date. 

Hour.           Barometer  Attached 
No.  1.        therm. 

Barometer  Air  ther- 
corrected.  momet'r. 

Wind. 

Remarks. 

Camp  No.  31. 
Sept     28                 

6  p  .  in    ...... 

27.  04(3     i 
.  000     j 
.026     ' 

52 
42 
37 

26.  9H9     ' 
.967 
27.  005 

52 
42 
37 

N 

Clear. 

Clear. 
Clear. 

Clear. 
Clear  ;  heavy  dew. 

Clear. 
Clear. 
Clear. 
Clear. 
Clear. 
Clear. 
Fair. 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Cloudy. 

Clouds;  fair. 
Clouds  ;  fair. 
Clear. 

Clear. 

Clear. 
Clouds;  fair. 
Clouds;  fair. 
Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 
Clouds. 

Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 

2r>                              .    • 

9  i)    111 

N 

29  ' 

Sunrise  ...... 

NW  

w  

Mean  ....  .... 

26.  967 

43.7 

Camp  No.  32. 
Sept.   29  i 
30                     

6  p.  m  

Sunrise    .   -   - 

27.968    \ 
.880     | 

41 

39 

27.  937 

.854 

41 

39 

W 

Mean  ......... 

sw 

27.  895 

40 

Camp  No.  33. 
Sept.    30  1 
30  
Oct.       1  
1  

3  p.  m  
6  p.  m  
Sunrise  
12  in  

28.  504ffl 
.450 
27.  880 
.682 
.656 
.600 
.602 

40 

70 
77 
58 
40 

'i 

74 

60 
41 
68 
75 
59 
40 

s  

27.  851 
.579 
28.  532 
.524 
.  573 

s  

SE 

1          

3  p.  m.  ...... 

SW  
SW  
SW  

w  
w  
w  

NW  
W  
N  

2 

6  p.  m  

Suuri&c  ...... 

Menu 

27.612 

56.6 

Camp  No.  34,  Barrier  river. 

Oct.       2  

2 

6  p.m  

9  p.  m.  

23.  960 
.882 
29.  008 

61 
51 
45 

28.  876 
.824 
.965 

60 
50 
45 

3 

Sunrise  ...... 

28.  888 

51.7 

Camp  No.  35,  north  branch 
of  the  Columbia. 
Oct.       3  
3  
4               

6  p.m  
9  p.  m  

Sunrise.  ...... 

29.  420 
.366 
.380 

66.5 
54.5 

40 

29.  319 
.  293 
.350 

66.5 
54 
40 

Mean  ...  ..... 

N  

29.  322 

53.5 

Camp   No.  36,  Okinakane 
river. 
Qct        4                     „  

12  m  

3  p.  in.  ....  ... 

29.  398 
.300 
.234 
.  202 
.164 

72 

77 
58 
50 
41 

1 

29.  286 
.273 
.156 
.146 
.131 

71 

75 
58 
50 
41 

4                    .  „  .. 

N  

4                    

6  p.m  

9  i).  in.   . 

N  

NW  
SW  

sw  

5            

Sunrise  ....  .. 

29.  198 

59.0 

Camp    No.  37,  Okinakane 
river. 
Oct.       5  
(5        

Sunset  
Sunrise  

29.  104 

•278 

66 
41 

29.  006 
.245 

66 
41 

NE  

s  

Meaii 

.      29.  125 

53.5 

Camp   No.    38,  Okinakane 
river. 
Oct.       6  

6 

Sunset  
9  p  .  in  .  .  .  .  .  . 

29.  182 
.174 
.195 

62 
49.5 
45 

29.  095 
.119 
.152 

61 
49 
45 

s  

Sunrise  

NW  

.      29.  122 

51.7 

i 

1 

i 

a  Aneroid  No.  7992  not  computed. 

. — The  barometric  observations  for  the  remainder  of  the  route  are  of  the  aneroids,  and  have  no  value  in  determina 
tions  of  altitudes.  The  temperature  observations  are  continued,  in  a  different  arrangement,  as  far  as  Fort  Colville,  with  some 
references  to  the  readings  of  the  aneroid  barometer. 


612 


METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS. 
Meteorological  Observations  on  route  to  Fort  Colville. 


Date. 

Locality. 

1 

Thermometer. 

Weather. 

1 
Sunrise.    ' 

| 
9am.          12  m.          3  p.  in. 

Sunset.         9  p.  m. 

Oct 

Nov. 

7 
8 

8 
9 
!) 
9 
10 
11 

11 
12 

12 
J2 

13 
13 

13 
14 
14 
14 
15 
15 
15 
10 
16 
16 
17 
17 
17 
18 
18 

19 
20 
21 
22 

22 
23 

23 
24 

24 

25 

25 
26 

26 
27 

28 
29 

30 

30 
31 
1 
1 

Camp   39,  Okina- 
kaue  river. 
Camp    3!),   Okina- 
kniie  river. 
Camp  40 

56          Clear;  wind  N. 

32        I 

.         Clear  ;  wind  N. 

52          Cloudy. 

Camp  4"       

46 

Cloudy. 

53                 68                 59 

Cloudy. 

Camp  41         

64         ,  Cloudy. 

Camp  41.....  .... 

54 

53.  5     i 

56.5             60                 t!l 
58.5             59                57 

54          Cloudy. 

Camp  41  .  ..  

Cloudy;  rain  at  3  p.  m.  ; 

Camp  42 

strong  SE.  wind. 
54          ..                    Cloudy. 

Camp  42.  .  . 

45 

49.  5      

Pleasant. 

En  route 

54                49 

Clouds  ;  S.  wind. 

Camp  43  

46          Fair. 

Camp  43s..      .   . 

38          . 

Cloudy;  E.  wind. 

En  route  

49.5             56          

Fair. 

Camp  44  

43                 36           Clouds  ;  wind  W.  &  NW. 
Kain  ;  E.  wind. 

Camp  44  

38 

42          

En  route. 

52  5             50 

Ixuinv  until  11  a.  in. 

Camp  45  

43                 46.5     i  Cloudy. 
.            Clouds  and  rain. 

Camp  45.. 

45 

50.  5 

En  route  

54 

Cloud  v. 

Camp  46.  . 

53          Fair. 

Camp  46  

49 

50          

Cloudv;  E.  wind. 

En  route  

:        58                54 

Clear. 

Camp  47  

54          Cloudy. 

Camp  47  

39 

........    .......        ...   .. 
41          

Cloudy;  W.  wind. 

En  route  

f)!>.  2        .                           • 

Cloudy. 

Camp  48  

*48.  5     i         40         ;  Cloudy. 

Camp  48.  ..  .. 

38.5     i 

.. 

42                59 

.        Clouds;  W.  wind. 

Camp    49,     (Fort 
Colville.) 
Camp  49  

!        56  2 

53         '  Clouds;  pleasant. 

30 
28 
35 
21 

44                63.  5             58 
42                58                55 
42                59                52 
24.5     ;        48                40 

42          Fair;  pleasant;  cloudy. 

Camp   19  

47                40        :  Misty  ;  cloudy. 
43        :                    •  Cloudy  day. 

Camp  49  

Camp   49  and  en 
route. 
Camp  50  

'  Clear. 

32.5             23         !  Clouds. 
Few  clouds. 

Camp   50   and  en 
route. 
Camp  51  

10 

28                51                 44.5 

43                35        I  Cloudy;  frost. 
Snow  6  inches  ;  wind  NW. 

Camp   51   and  en 
route. 
Camp  52  

30 

32.5     !        34.5             34.5 

33                 32           Cloudy  ;  wind  SE. 
Clouds  and  mist  ;  E. 

Camp   52   and  en 
route. 
Camp  53  

31.5 

32                34          

35                 33        !  Clouds  and  mist  ;  S. 
Clouds;  Pi.  wind. 

Camp   53   and  en 
route. 

32 

36                41                 38 

|                             ! 

37                 36           Few  clouds,  NE.  wind. 
37          Cloudy;  fair;  calm. 

Camp  54....  . 

30.5 
29.5     i 
37 

52.  5 

36                45                50 
35                 50                 50 
51                  60                 57 

Camp  54  

41                 35.5       Fair;  cloudy;  NE.  wind. 
54                52        i  Cloudy;  SE.   wind;  SW. 
at  evening. 
Cloudy;  rain;  strong  S\V. 

Camp  54  . 

Camp  54  ..... 

Camp  55....    ....  . 

61 

wind. 
52  5                            Cloudy  ;  strong  SW.  wind. 

Camp  55  

25 

27 

40                45.  5             42 

40          Clouds;  fair;  wind  SW. 

Camp  55  

Cloudy. 

Camp  56  t  .......  . 

32                 19           Clear. 

1 

i 

*  On  a  branch  of  the  Columbia,  east  of  Okinakane  river. 

t  On  the  plains  south  of  Spokane  river,  and  on  the  tributaries  of  Snake  river,  or  Lewis's  Fork. 

NOTE.— The  remaining  observations  are  in  the  valley  of  the  Columbia,  and  on  the  plain,  and  present  no  noticeable  feature. 


TABLE   OF    ALTITUDES. 
List  of  Altitudes  of  the  line  from  Columbia  Barracks  to  Fort  Okinakanc. 


•613 


Camp. 

Barometer. 

Thermometer. 

Altitude. 

c 

Feet. 

I 

29.  828 

74.6 

157.2 

2 

29.  706 

79.3 

276.  7 

:5 

29.  728 

78.6 

2:>5.  5 

4 

29.410 

72.0 

553.  5 

5 

29.251 

68.5 

702.  7 

6 

29.  535 

59.3 

430.  0 

7 

29.  549 

59.  7 

417.0 

8 

29.  680 

56.9 

312.8 

9 

29.  337 

60.0 

615.4 

10 

29.  107 

58.  7 

782.  5 

11 

27.  053 

57.7 

2810.  1 

12 

20.  834 

53.3 

3049.  0 

13 

25.  968 

48.0 

3923.  7 

14 

27.  747 

53.0 

2430.  8 

15 

27.  930 

66.  0 

1980.  3 

16 

28.  122 

65.  0 

1789.  1 

17 

27.  222 

55.  4 

2662.  5 

J8 

27.  725 

58.7 

2168.7 

19 

28.  594 

63.8 

1331.4 

20 

27.  968 

55.3 

1921.7 

2  j 

28.131 

63.  5 

1777.  G 

22 

28.  103 

51.4 

1782.  3 

'23 

27.  678 

51.7 

2198.  6 

•24 

28.  172 

61.5 

1732.  4 

25 

29.199 

74.5 

756.  5 

26 

28.  964 

61.2 

968.  7 

27 

29.163 

53.0 

781.6 

28 

29.  289 

59.2 

754.1 

29 

29.  209 

54.0 

738.  8 

30 

29.  102 

57.9 

834.7 

31 

26.  987 

43.7 

2804.  5 

32 

27.  895 

40.  0 

1960.  4 

33 

27.612 

56.6 

2275.  6 

34 

28.  888 

51.7 

1048.  8 

35 

29.  322 

53.5 

624.  3 

36 

29.  198 

59.0 

745.  2 

37 

29.  125 

53.5 

808.  5 

38 

29.  122 

51.7 

811.1 

ERRATA. 

In  table  of  latitudes  and  longitudes,  page  456,  for  latitude  of  Fort  Colville,  46°  36'  16",  read  48°  36'  16". 

In  table  on  page  568,  for  mean  difference  of  readings  of  wet  and  dry  thermometers,  August,  1854,  for  15°.7,  read  16° .7. 


614  RISE    AND    FALL    OF   THE   COLUMBIA    RIVER. 

RISE    AND    FALL    OF    THE    COLUMBIA    RIVER    AT    FORT    VANCOUVER. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  November  7,  1854. 

SIR:  I  enclose  herewith  a  letter  from  Mr.  John  D.  Biles  to  Mr.  Gibbs,  explanatory  of  an  ac 
companying  table  of  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  Columbia  river  at  Fort  Vancouver  during  the  "spring 
rise."  Mr.  Biles  was  of  my  party  in  that  country  last  year,  and  I  know  that  perfect  reliance 
may  be  placed  upon  his  results. 

As  the  information  is  of  value  in  more  than  one  regard,  I  would  request  that  it  may,  if  possi 
ble,  accompany  my  reports. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

GEO.  B.  McCLELLAN, 
Lieutenant  Engineers  and  Brevet  Captain. 
Capt.  A.  A.  HUMPHREYS, 

In  Charge  of  Pacific  Railway  Office. 


COAST  SURVEY  STATION,  NEAR  CAMDEN,  MAINE, 

November  1,  1854. 

DEAR  SIR:  In  a  letter  from  George  Gibbs,  Esq.,  dated  at  Steilacoom,  he  sends  observations 
on  the  freshets  observed  at  Fort  Vancouver  by  Mr.  John  D.  Biles,  and  intimates  that  they  may 
be  useful  to  }TOU.  I  send,  therefore,  a  copy  of  the  tables,  and  of  Mr.  Biles's  letter. 

Yours,  respectfully, 

A.  D.  BACHE. 

Capt.    McCLELLAN, 

Corps  of  Engineers. 


WASHINGTON  TERRITORY,  COLUMBIA  CITY, 

August  20,  1854. 

DEAR  SIR:  Enclosed  I  send  you  the  observations  of  the  Columbia  river  during  the  freshet 
commencing  May  8,  1854,  and  ending  July  20.  I  also  observed  the  temperature  of  the  air  and 
water  at  the  same  time.  The  observations  of  the  river  were  measured  by  a  common  two-foot 
rule.  I  presume  you  will  easily  understand  the  register.  The  figures  in  the  column  headed 
"  rise,"  show  the  amount  of  water  each  twenty-four  hours ;  that  is  to  say,  May  8th  the  river  rose 
two  inches,  May  9th  two  and  a  half  inches  more,  and  so  on,  as  registered.  The  figures  under 
the  column  headed  "  fall,"  the  same  way. 

You  will  also  observe,  by  the  register,  that  on  the  7th  day  of  June  the  river  commenced  to  fall, 
continued  till  June  16,  and  during  that  time  fell  three  feet  one  and  five-eighths  inches.  The 
water  was  not  so  high  this  year,  by  four  feet,  as  last  year,  and  the  year  before.  The  convexity 
of  the  river,  at  its  highest,  was,  as  near  as  I  could  judge,  ten  inches,  and  during  its  fall,  about  eight 
inches.  The  velocity  in  the  channel  at  low  water  is  one  hundred  yards  in  two  minutes  and 
twenty-two  seconds ;  at  high  water,  one  hundred  yards  in  one  minute  and  thirty-eight  seconds. 

It  was  impossible  to  measure  the  deposit,  as  it  was  such  a  small  quantity,  in  four  gallons  of 
water.  I  have  preserved  every  particle,  and  enclose  each  observation  in  a  separate  paper.  The 
one  marked  May  31,  was  taken  when  the  river  was  rising ;  the  paper  marked  June  30,  \vhen  the 
water  was  at  its  highest;  and  the  one  marked  July  20,  in  its  general  stage.  I  also  take  one 
to-day,  August  20.  1  could  not  procure  scales  accurate  enough  to  weigh  them,  thinking  you 
could  weigh  them  after  you  receive  them.  Each  package  contains  the  amount  of  deposit  of  four 
gallons  of  water.  If  there  is  any  part  of  the  observations  you  cannot  make  out  clearly,  inform 
me,  and  I  will  give  you  all  the  information  I  possibly  .can,  with  pleasure.  I  shall  comply  with  your 


RISE    AND    FALL    OF    THE   COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


615 


request  to  take  the  amount  of  deposit  every  month;  and  if  circumstances  permit,  shall  take 
observations  of  the  river  during  the  winter  freshet,  and  also  next  spring. 

Yours  truly, 

JOHN  D.  BILES. 
GEORGE  GIBBS,  Esq. 


Observations  of  Columbia  river  during  the  freshet  commencing  May  8,  and  ending  July  20,  1854;  by 
John  .D.  Biles,  Fort  Vancouver,  Washington  Territory. 


Hour. 


Date. 


Rise. 


Fall. 


Temperature      Temperature 
of  air.  of  water. 


Remarks. 


May 


June 


July 


9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

2G 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

1 

2 

3 


Inches. 
2 
2J 
34 
4| 
4 
34 
44 
5i 
45 
4$ 


3 

24 

2 

24 

25 

2£ 

3 

34 

34 

2 


If 

24 
44 


10 

Hi 

124 

J4 


Inches, 


1 

34 


64 

£J 
34 
1 


41.5 

42 

42.5 

43 

42.5 

42.  9 

44 

45.5 

46.5 

46 

45.5 

48 

48.5 

47.5 

48 

47.5 

47 

47.5 

46.5 

47 

49 

49.5 

50 

50.  75 

51.5 

50.5 

50 

49.5 

49 

49.75 

48.5 

47.5 

48 

47.5 

46.5 

46 

47.1 

48.5 

49 

50.5 

51.5 

5] 

52 

52.5 

52 

49.9 

51.5 

53.1 

55 

56 

55.5 

59 

58. 75 

57.5 

51 

52.5 

52.75 


40 

41.2 

41 

42.5 

41.2 

41.5 

43.1 

44 

44.5 

43.  75 

44 

46.5 

46.2 

44.75 

46.  75 
45.  75 
44.5 
45 

45 

45.  5 

46 

46.5 

47.5 

48 

49.2 

49 

48.5 

48 

48.5 

47.75 

46 

45.  75 

46 

46.5 

47.75 

45.  5 

46 

47.  75 
48.3 
49 
50.5 
49.75 
50.  5 
51.75 
50.5 
48.5 
50 

51 

53.1 

53.5 

54 

54.5 

54.9 

55 

47.75 

48 

48.5 


Water  very  muddy. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Water  clearer. 


Water  muddy. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Water  clearing. 

Do. 
Water  clearer. 

Do. 
Water  very  muddy. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
River  at  a  stand. 

Do. 

Commencement  of  fall. 
Clearing. 


River  at  a  stand. 

Do. 
Fall. 

River  at  a  stand. 
Commence  to  rise. 


Water  clear. 
Stand. 


616 


Hour. 


8  A.  M... 


RISE    AND   FALL    OF    THE   COLUMBIA    RIVER. 
Observations  of  (fie  Columbia  river,  §"c. — Continued. 


Date. 

Rise. 

Fall. 

Temperature      Temperature 
of  air.                of  water. 

Rjemarks. 

July         4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
0 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 

Total  

Inches. 

Inches. 

o 
53 
53.75 
54.5 
55 
55.5 
55 
55.9 
56.75 
56 
54.  75 
55 
55.75 
56.5 
56 
56.  75 
57.5 
58 

o 
48.75 
48.5 
49 
49.  75 
49.9 
50.5 
50.9 
51.5 
51.75 
51.5 
51.2 
52 
52.  5 
52.  1 
52.2 
53 
53.5 

Stand. 
Fall. 

1 

-  Water  continues  clear  during  fall. 

1 
River  about  the  usual  stage. 

I 
3 
5i 
7| 
104 

13:} 
15 
144 

if* 

134 

18 
16| 

144 

12i 
6 
2i 

159| 

121  t  abov 
207  J  abov 

207J 
e  spring  level, 
e  summer  level. 

Highest  
Highest  

CORBESPONDENCE. 


OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

December  12,  1853. 

DEAR  SIR  :  I  find  it  of  great  consequence  to  the  survey  to  make  certain  examinations  of  the 
passes  in  the  Cascade  range  during  the  winter — examinations  really  indispensable  to  a  reliable 
preliminary  report  the  present  session  of  Congress. 

If  you  and  your  party  are  not  altogether  too  much  exhausted  by  your  protracted  labors,  I 
wish  you  to  take  an  important  part  in  these  examinations. 

There  are  two  passes  in  the  Cascade  range,  about  fifteen  and  thirty-five  miles,  respectively, 
north  of  Mount  Rainier.  The  first  pass,  called  the  Nahchess  Pass,  follows  along  the  Nahchess 
tributary  of  the  Yakima  river,  and  was  pursued  by  the  emigrants  the  present  year.  The  second 
or  northern  pass,  called  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  is  along  the  main  Yakima  river,  and  up  a  broad 
open  valley,  and  the  dividing  ridge  is  only  three  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  Nahchess  Pass  is  five  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  The  climate  in  the  Puget  Sound  district 
is  of  extraordinary  mildness,  and  modifies  greatly  the  climate  of  the  Cascade  passes.  The 
Snoqualme  Pass,  I  am  perfectly  satisfied  from  the  information  I  have  received,  is  practicable  for 
pack-horses  every  month  of  the  year,  excepting  that  in  very  severe  winters  it  may  be  impassable 
in  February. 

I  have  therefore  to  direct  that,  on  your  arrival  at  Wallah- Wallah,  you  fit  yourself  out  to  continue 
your  work  to  this  point  over  the  Cascade  mountains  by  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  and  will,  for  this 
duty,  purchase  fresh  and  sound  animals,  furnish  yourself  with  at  least  thirty  days'  provisions, 
secure  a  good,  reliable  Indian  guide,  and  start  with  the  determination  to  push  yourself  through. 

I  have  left  in  charge  of  Mr.  Pambrun,  the  gentleman  in  charge  at  Wallah- Wallah,  some 
forty-five  animals  ;  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  any  of  them  will  be  equal  to  the  work.  By  confer 
ence  with  him,  with  Bomford  and  Brook,  who  live  at  Whitman's  mission,  and  Pu-pu-mux-mux, 
the  Wallah-Wallah  chief,  you  will  be  able  to  secure  good  animals.  Do  not  take  one  in  trust, 
however.  Have  each  one  thoroughly  tested,  and  be  particular  in  the  price.  Take  some  days 
to  fit  yourself  out  in  the  most  complete  manner.  You  will  need  some  axes  and  a  good  supply 
of  matches. 

On  the  route  you  must  be  on  your  guard  not  to  be  misled  by  wrong  information.  It  is  believed 
here  that  the  priests  at  the  Yakima  mission,  on  the  line  of  your  route,  are  in  the  habit  of  repre 
senting  the  country  and  the  climate  in  the  worst  possible  light,  in  order  to  discourage  settlements; 
and  the  Indians,  you  well  know,  are  prone  to  story-telling. 

So  far  from  finding  the  route  exceedingly  difficult,  I  am  satisfied  it  will  be  your  quickest  and 
easiest  way  of  reaching  this  point. 

On  the  8th  of  November  certain  Indians  came  into  Wallah-Wallah  with  the  report  that  the 
emigrants  were  obliged  to  abandon  their  wagons  and  animals  in  consequence  of  snow  in  the 
Nahchess  Pass,  and  that  the  week  previous  two  Indians  turned  back,  the  snow  being  up  to  the 
breasts  of  their  horses;  whereas  the  emigrants  saw  no  snow  whatever  in  the  pass,  and  none  fell 
till  the  3d  of  November,  and  that  to  the  depth  of  only  four  inches.  The  day  they  brought  in  that 
report,  and  for  a  fortnight  later,  it  is  not  probable  there  was  even  one  foot  of  snow  at  any  point 
of  the  route. 

78/ 


618  LETTER    TO    A.    W.    TINKHAM. 

The  Yakima  Indians  on  your  route  are  civil  and  obliging,  arid  their  chiefs,  Tias,  Caroni-ach, 
Ska-loo,  and  Ouhae,  are  very  friendly.  Pu-pu-mux-mux  will,  I  think,  be  of  great  assistance  to 
you,  and  will  accompany  you,  I  have  no  doubt,  a  part  of  the  way.  His  influence  over  the  In 
dians  is  very  great,  and  he  will  be  able  to  secure  good  guides,  and  keep  down  false  reports.  Say 
to  him  I  earnestly  desire  him  to  accompany  you.  He  has  many  beef-cattle.  It  would  be  well 
to  have  driven  one  or  two  with  your  party,  to  the  farthest  point  they  can  reach ;  then  kill  them, 
pack  what  you  can,  and  cache  the  rest;  you  have  something  to  eat  in  case  of  a  reverse.  Indians 
should  be  got  to  drive  them.  You  ought  to  have  one  or  two  Indians  for  herders.  Whilst  I  am 
confident  you  will  go  through  without  difficulty,  I  wish  every  precaution  taken  to  guard  against 
reverses,  so  that  no  suffering  shall  be  experienced  by  yourself  or  any  member  of  your  party. 
You  ought  to  have  snow-shoes. 

You  will,  however,  proceed  with  extreme  caution  and  make  arrangements  at  the  last  Indian 
village  for  a  depot  of  provisions,  to  fall  back  upon  in  case  of  a  sudden  fall  of  snow,  compelling 
you  to  pause  for  some  days ;  or  in  case  you  be  satisfied  that  the  route  is  impassable,  and  that, 
contrary  to  my  confident  belief  and  expectation,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  you  return  to 
Wallah- Wallah.  Even  ihis  fact  will  be  of  great  consequence,  and  will  show  there  are  greater 
difficulties  to  be  encountered  than  we  now  look  forward  to.  Provisions  you  will  be  able  to  get 
of  Mr.  Pambrun;  but  it  may  be  you  can  do  better  as  to  procuring  beef  with  Bomfbrd  and  Brook, 
or  with  Pu-pu-mux-mux.  I  should  prefer  that  you  get  all  you  can  of  Pu-pu-mux-mux. 

On  your  route  you  will  make  your  examinations  with  your  usual  care,  noting  everything  of 
importance  pertaining  both  to  rail  and  wagon  roads;  and  if  your  barometer  is  not  broken,  con 
tinuing  your  barometric  profile.  In  the  postscript  to  this  letter  I  will  give  the  principal  facts  as 
regards  the  western  slope  of  the  Cascades,  and  add  a  sketch. 

The  route  from  Wallah-Wallah  to  this  point  by  the  Columbia  and  the  Cowlitz  rivers  is  a  long 
and  somewhat  disagreeable  one.  Provisions  and  animals  are  to  be  got  at  Wallah- Wallah,  the 
Dalles,  and  Vancouver.  Our  animals  at  Wallah- Wallah  are  in  charge  of  Mr.  Pambrun ;  at  the 
Dalles  are  in  charge  of  Sergeant  Martin,  and  at  Vancouver  of  Mr.  Swissler,  an  old  resident  well 
known  there.  The  road  is  very  good  to  the  Dalles,  but  somewhat  difficult  thence,  though  prac 
ticable  to  Vancouver.  Thence  there  is  a  practicable  trail  to  this  place,  some  little  forage  being, 
however,  required,  in  consequence  of  a  deficiency  of  grass.  Instead,  however,  of  going  all  the 
way  by  land,  you  can  go  down  the  Columbia  river  to  a  liltle  village  just  above  the  mouth,  and 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Cowlitz  river,  called  Monticello;  whence,  taking  a  light  Indian  canoe,  (a 
barge  or  bateau  should  not  be  used  at  this  season  of  the  year,)  you  go  up  the  Cowlitz  about 
thirty-two  miles  to  Cowlitz  landing.  Thence  there  is  a  good  road  to  this  place,  the  distance 
being  about  sixty  miles.  From  Vancouver  to  Monticello  the  distance  is  forty-five  to  forty-eight 
miles.  Should  you  be  compelled  to  come  this  way,  go  to  the  Dalles  by  land,  provided  you  are 
not  compelled  to  purchase  animals;  thence  to  Vancouver  by  the  Columbia  river,  (you  can  prob 
ably  get  through  for  about  seven  dollars  per  man,)  and  to  this  point  by  land ;  unless,  again,  you 
are  obliged  to  purchase  animals.  I  send  herewith  a  note  directing  Mr.  Pambrun,  Sergeant 
Martin,  and  Mr.  Swissler  to  deliver  up  such  animals  as  you  may  select,  or  to  receive  from  you 
such  as  you  may  deliver  up,  giving  you  receipts  therefor.  You  should  have  a  descriptive  list  of 
each  animal,  and  they  should,  if  practicable,  be  branded.  On  the  two  trails  from  Wallah- 
Wallah  to  the  Dalles,  and  from  Columbia  barracks  to  this  point,  the  animals  should  be  in  good 
order  at  this  season  of  the  year;  packs  should  not  be  more  than  one  hundred  pounds,  and  at 
least  half  a  bushel  of  oats,  barley,  or  corn,  should  be  taken  along  for  each  animal. 

Very  truly,  yours,  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS. 

A.  W.  TINKHAM,' Esq.,  Fort  Wallah- Wallah. 

N.  B. — The  enclosed  sketch  will  show  how  the  trail  from  the  pass  connects  with  Sinahomish 
river  and  Port  Gardner,  with  the  White  River  valley,  and  Elliott's  bay.  Alki  and  Seattle  are 


LETTER    TO    THE   SECRETARY   OF   WAR.  619 

two  flourishing  settlements.  It  is  probable  the  line  of  railroad  will  run  either  to  Port  Gardner  or 
to  some  point  north,  as  Bellingham  bay.  I  will  have  established  at  the  falls  a  depot  of  provisions 
and  two  or  three  men,  and  I  shall  send  up  a  party  into  the  pass  from  this  side,  which  will  prob 
ably  meet  you.  They  may  run  the  line  to  Bellingham  bay.  Make  the  falls  a  point  in  your 
route.  Should  your  animals  be  exhausted  and  unfit  for  further  service,  send  them  by  one  or  two 
men  to  Steilacoom,  and  take  canoes  and  go  down  the  river.  It  is  about  one  day  down  the  river 
to  its  mouth,  and  a  day  and  a  half  toOlympia.  If  your  animals  are  strong  enough,  come  through 
all  the  way  by  land.  I  want  you  to  see  how  railroads  and  wagon  roads  can  be  brought  down 
from  the  pass  to  Steilacoom,  including,  if  practicable,  a  line  to  Elliott's  bay.  This  line  is  said  to 
be  impracticable.  I  will  send  forage  to  the  falls.  Write  me  word  of  your  departure  from 
Wallah-Wallah,  and  take  pains  to  have  it  forwarded  promptly. 


OFFICE  NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Olympic,,  Washington  Territory,  December  30,  1853. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  report  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Arnold,  from  his  route  by  the 
northern  trail  to  Colville,  and  thence  by  the  line  of  the  Columbia  river  to  Wallah-Wallah,  and 
acknowledge  his  energy  and  promptitude  in  making,  at  this  late  state  of  the  season,  valuable 
contributions  to  our  knowledge  of  the  country  passed  over  by  him. 

Lieutenant  Arnold,  under  instructions  from  Lieutenant  Donelson,  left  his  camp  at  the  crossing 
of  Clark's  fork,  west  of  the  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  on  the  24th  of  October,  with  a  select  party  of  six 
men,  an  Indian  guide,  and  eighteen  animals,  and  reached  Colville  on  the  30th.  Here,  in  pursu 
ance  of  instructions  left  by  me,  he  ascended  the  Columbia  in  canoes  and  found  the  mouth  of 
Clark's  fork  about  two  miles  north  of  the  49th  parallel,  and  thus  settled  a  disputed  question  of 
geography.  His  route  from  Colville  to  Wallah- Wallah  was  by  the  Grand  Coulee.  The  follow 
ing  extracts  from  his  reports  to  me,  of  this  date,  will  give  a  general  view  of  his  route. 

"  In  accordance  with  your  instructions,  I  ascended  the  Columbia  to  the  49th  parallel,  which 
was  found  to  cross  the  Columbia  about  two  miles  south  of  its  confluence  with  Clark's  fork.  My 
observations  in  connexion  with  the  survey  of  this  portion  of  the  river  were  confined  to  a  narrow 
belt  of  country,  included  between  two  parallel  ridges  of  mountains,  whose  general  directions  were 
north  and  south.  This  belt  was  level,  gradually  ascending  to  the  north,  well  wooded,  and,  even 
at  this  late  season,  covered  with  tine  grass;  the  soil  alluvial  and  sandy.  The  mountain  ranges 
are  a  continuation  of  those  seen  along  the  western  bank  to  the  south,  to  the  east  presenting  one 
uniform  unbroken  outline,  the  first  pass  being  at  Colville;  the  current  of  the  river  rapid  in  the 
channel,  with  innumerable  eddies  and  whirlpools  along  its  banks  ;  its  bed  rocky.  Having  com 
pleted  the  survey  of  the  Columbia  north  of  Colville,  I  left  the  latter  place  on  the  14th  of  iNovem- 
ber  and  marched  along  the  east  bank  of  the  Columbia  for  six  days — distance,  about  110  miles; 
the  trail  over  a  level  and  wooded  country,  to  the  Spokane  river,  and  from  the  latter  place  to 
where  the  Columbia  makes  the  great  bend  to  the  west,  and  from  here  to  the  moulh  of  the  Grand 
Coulee,  exceedingly  rough  and  dangerous ;  the  country  to  the  east  and  south,  after  leaving  the 
high  banks  of  the  river,  undulating.  At  this  point,  110  miles  from  Colville,  I  proceeded  south 
from  the  river,  and  immediately  made  an  ascent  of  about  100  feet,  when  I  came  to  the  Grand 
Coulee.  This  mighty  avenue,  about  15  miles  to  the  south,  and  three  to  six  in  width,  has  a  gradual 
ascent  to  the  south.  Its  sides  are  one  perpendicular  mass  of  molten  rock,  about  800  feet  in 
height,  and  on  a  level  with  the  grand  plain  of  the  Spokane.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  trees, 
seen  in  this  coulee,  there  is  no  timber  between  this  coulee  and  the  Columbia.  After  marching  30 
miles,  I  entered  the  most  southern  and  second  coulee  in  size.  Its  general  appearance  was  like 
the  former,  and  it  was  about  six  miles  in  length,  with  a  more  westerly  direction.  The  country 
between  these  coulees  generally  level,  with  the  exception  of  innumerable  smaller  ones,  like  those 
already  mentioned.  From  the  southernmost  coulee  to  the  Columbia  the  country  is  level  and 


620  LETTER    TO    TUB    SECRETARY   OF    WAR. 

sandy.  In  short,  the  sect  ion  of  country  included  between  the  Columbia  to  the  north  and  west, 
the  headwaters  of  the  Peluse  and  Spokane  to  the  east,  and  Snake  river  to  the  south,  is  one  grand 
plain;  which,  near  the  Columbia,  is  divided  into  innumerable  chasms,  called  coulees,  running  in 
all  directions,  and  owing  their  origin  to  one  general  cause.  From  this  point  to  the  Columbia  the 
country  is  one  grand  level,  gradually  descending  to  the  south.  My  trail  struck  the  Columbia 
about  10  miles  north  of  the  Yakima.  The  distance  from  the  great  bend  of  the  Columbia  to  the 
west,  to  the  latter  point,  is  about  130  miles.  The  country  from  this  point  to  the  Columbia  is 
level,  my  route  being  along  the  east  bank,  crossing  Snake  river  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  its 
mouth  ;  distance  34  miles.  The  distances  given  above  are  mere  approximations,  which  will  be 
corrected  when  the  data  is  completed." 

Captain  McClellan,  on  the  28th  instant,  left  Steilacoom  with  a  small  party  in  cnnoes  to  explore 
the  shores  of  the  sound,  with  reference  to  the  railroad  depot,  and  to  ascend  the  Snohomish  river 
and  its  tributary,  the  Snoqualme  river,  to  the  Snoqualme  falls.  From  this  point,  with  Indian 
horses  procured  in  the  neighborhood,  he  will  go  to  the  Snoqualme  Pass  ;  or,  if  the  snow  renders 
the  route  impracticable,  on  snow-shoes,  and  thence  take  the  railroad  down  to  the  sound.  Previous 
to  his  return  to  this  point  he  will  endeavor  to  make  an  examination  of  the  work  done  on  the 
military  road. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory. 
HON.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington  City. 


OFFICE  NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Olijmpia,  Washington  Territory,  January  31,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  report  that,  as  announced  to  you  in  my  letter  dated  December  19, 
Captain  McClellan  left  Olympia  on  the  23d  December  in  a  canoe,  arriving  at  Steilacoom  that 
evening.  He  received  verbal  instructions  to  carry  down  the  lines  from  the  Snoqualme  Pass  to 
the  several  good  harbors  of  the  sound,  going  as  far  northward  as  Bellingham  bay,  and  to  examine 
the  several  ports  of  the  same  to  determine  the  proper  terminus  of  the  railroad.  The  duty  of  col 
lecting  information  as  to  a  wagon  road  along  the  shores  of  the  sound  from  Steilacoom  to  Belling 
ham  bay,  was  also  assigned  to  him.  Unable  to  procure  horses  or  guides  at  Steilacoom,  he 
determined  to  take  canoes  to  go  by  the  Sinahomish  and  Snoqualme  rivers  to  the  Snoqualme  falls, 
and  thence  to  ascend  to  the  Snoqualme  Pass  on  foot.  It  was  unfortunate  that  about  this  time 
very  severe  weather  set  in,  the  thermometer  ranging  much  lower  than  at  any  time  last  winter, 
which  was  one  of  unusual  severity.  In  consequence  of  this,  and  finding  considerable  snow  upon 
the  ground,  increasing  rapidly  as  they  continued  on,  Captain  McClellan,  with  his  party,  after 
going  seven  miles  beyond  the  falls,  deemed  it  imprudent  to  go  farther,  and  thence  returned. 
Captain  McClellan  was  able,  however,  to  add  much  to  our  previous  knowledge  of  the  country, 
and  we  know  from  his  examinations  that  the  route  is  somewhat  more  difficult  than  has  been  pre 
viously  reported.  A  railroad  line  can  still  be  brought  down,  with  grades  approaching  the  pass 
from  the  east  not  exceeding  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  to  the  mile,  and  with  grades  descending  to  the 
sound  not  exceeding  sixty  feet  to  the  mile,  but  at  the  cost  of  an  expensive  tunnel.  Captain 
McClellan  has  prepared  a  brief  report  of  his  operations,  written  hastily  as  merely  a  memorandum, 
which  is  extremely  interesting.  The  enclosed  is  a  copy  of  the  same. 

Further  examinations  are  still  requisite  before  a  comparison  can  be  made  between  this  line  arid 
that  of  the  Columbia  and  Cowlitz  rivers. 

While  Captain  McCleilan  was  making  these  examinations,  I  took  a  trip  by  sailing-vessel  down 
the  sound,  continuing  as  far  as  Vancouver's  island,  my  object  being  to  tnke  a  census  of  the  Indian 


LETTER  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR.  621 

tribes  in  that  vicinity,  and  to  acquaint  myself  with  the  harbors  of  the  sound  with  reference  to  the 
termination  of  the  railroad  line.  I  was  agreeably  impressed  with  Elliott's  bay,  on  which  are  the 
flourishing  towns  of  Seattle  and  Alki,  and  I  agree  entirely  with  Captain  McClellan,  in  the  opinion 
that  it  is  the  best  harbor  of  the  sound,  and  unless  the  approach  to  it  from  the  pass  should,  on  a 
more  minute  examination,  prove  less  favorable  than  to  some  other  point,  and  which  is  hardly 
to  be  expected,  that  it  is  the  proper  terminus  of  the  railroad.  During  my  stay  at  Seattle,  two 
sailing-vessels  arrived  directly  from  San  Francisco,  only  six  days  from  that  port.  A  more  com 
plete  report  will  be  forwarded  as  soon  as  the  proper  data  can  be  obtained. 

I  have  now  the  honor  to  report  that  an  express  messenger  reached  this  place  this  morning, 
bearing  despatches  from  Mr.  Tinkham,  dated  Wallah-Wallah,  January  2,  1854,  stating  that,  in 
accordance  with  my  instructions,  he  had  fitted  out  his  party  for  the  crossing  of  the  Cascade 
mountains  to  this  point,  through  the  Snoqu aline  Pass.  He  was  to  leave  on  the  3d  of  January, 
and  has  consequently  been  out  twenty-eight  days,  and  may  daily  be  expected  to  reach  us.  Mr. 
Tinkham  had  had  an  adventurous  trip  since  our  separation  in  the  St.  Mary's  valley.  Leaving 
us  at  that  point,  he  crossed  the  rocky  mountains  through  the  Marias  Pass,  between  October  7th 
and  2Sth.  He  found  that  this  line  involved  a  tunnel  of  two  miles,  and  high  grades  fora  railroad, 
and  for  a  wagon  road  he  deems  it  impracticable.  He  encountered  no  snow  of  consequence,  and 
after  a  short  stay  at  Fort  Benton,  where  he  found  everything  pertaining  to  the  post  established  at 
that  point  in  charge  of  James  Doty,  Esq.,  in  excellent  condition,  he  recrossed  the  mountains  for 
the  third  time  within  six  weeks,  taking  a  new  trail,  intermediate  between  the  Hell  Gate  and  Black- 
foot  passes,  the  ones  taken  respectively  by  Lieutenant  Mullan  and  the  main  train.  This  pass  he 
found  entirely  practicable  for  wagons  even  at  this  moment.  The  dividing  ridge  is  a  mere  hill, 
its  summit  but  six  thousand  feet  (6,000)  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  so  easy  of  ascent  that  in 
ascending  to  the  summit  they  were  enabled  to  keep  a  trot,  though  the  road  was  slippery  in  con 
sequence  of  a  large  camp  of  Pend  d'Oreille  Indians  having  preceded  them.  A  portion  of  this 
band  they  passed  in  the  ascent,  and  afterwards  accompanied  them  through  the  entire  pass. 
They  were  returning  from  the  buffalo  hunt,  and  heavily  laden  with  meat.  A  copy  of  Mr.  Tink- 
ham's  report,  which  was  written  rather  hastily  at  Wallah-Wallah,  is  herewith  enclosed;  and  I  beg 
leave  to  call  your  attention  to  the  extraordinary  energy  he  has  shown,  not  only  in  his  crossings  of 
the  Rocky  mountains,  but  when,  on  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail  between  St.  Mary's  and  Wallah- 
Wallah,  he  afterwards  encountered  deep  snows,  which  compelled  him  to  send  his  animals  back 
to  St.  Mary's  and  to  travel  on  snow-shoes,  each  man  with  a  pack  of  from  fifty  to  seventy  pounds 
on  his  back.  They  thus  made  the  entire  crossing  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains  in  fifteen  days, 
and  then,  issuing  out  upon  the  prairies,  they  found  but  little  snow,  and  at  the  house  of  an  Ameri 
can  settler  which  lay  in  their  route  they  were  enabled  to  procure  horses,  with  which  they  pro 
ceeded  to  Wallah- Wallah.  On  his  arrival  here,  which,  as  I  have  before  mentioned,  is  anticipated 
at  any  moment,  he  will  have  completed  a  most  hazardous  and  adventurous  trip,  deserving  of  the 
highest  praise.  At  Wallah- Wallah  Mr.  Tinkham  found  my  instructions  to  pursue  the  route  through 
the  Snoqualme  Pass,  and  a  copy  of  these  instructions  are  enclosed  herewith. 

Mr.  Tinkham  brought  a  report  from  Mr.  Doty,  who  was  entering  finely  upon  the  field  before 
him.  Lieutenant  Grover  had  not  returned  from  his  survey  of  the  Missouri  between  the  falls  of 
the  Missouri  and  Fort  Union.  From  Mr.  Tinkham's  good  success  in  getting  through  the  snow  in 
the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  I  am  relieved  of  all  apprehension  I  might  have  entertained  as  to  the 
success  of  Lieutenant  Grover,  who  will  set  out  fully  equipped  for  his  adventurous  journey. 

Mr.  Tinkham  also  brought  reports  from  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and  a  copy  of  a  report  of  a  reconnais 
sance  made  by  him  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Jefferson's  fork  of  the  Missouri  is  herewith  enclosed. 
At  the  time  of  Mr.  Tinkham's  leaving  the  valley,  he  had  established  a  winter  camp,  fourteen 
miles  from  Fort  Owen,  up  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  and  he  was  employing  his  men  in  the  erection  of 
four  log-houses,  the  expense  of  which  will  not  exceed  twenty-five  dollars  for  all.  If  the  opera- 


622  LETTER    OF    CAPTAIN    MC'CLELLAN. 

lions  are  resumed  next  season,  these  houses  will  serve  for  the  depot  of  provisions,  or  otherwise 
will  be  available  as  the  quarters  of  the  Indian  agent  to  be  appointed  in  that  valley. 

Lieutenant  Mullan  reports  that  the  Blackfeet  Indians  are  keeping  their  promises  of  peace  but 
faithlessly ;  and  I  would  respectfully  suggest,  that  I  have  strongly  recommended  to  the  Indian 
Department  an  appropriation  for  a  general  Indian  council  at  Fort  Benton  during  the  coming  season, 
and  lliat  I  have  set  forth  the  necessity  of  a  military  force  being  present.  I  would  strongly 
recommend  to  the  War  Department  the  establishment  of  a  military  post  at  or  near  Fort  Benton 
for  the  protection  of  emigrants,  to  whom,  I  think,  a  route  is  now  opened  which  will  compete 
favorably  with  that  through  the  South  Pass.  Ascending  the  Missouri  river  with  their  effects, 
which  has  been  found  to  be  navigable  for  steamers  to  the  mouth  of  Milk  river,  and  will,  I  believe, 
be  found  navigable  to  the  falls  of  the  Missouri  by  Lieutenant  Grover's  survey,  and  having  their 
cattle  driven  along  the  trails  by  the  river-bank,  they  will  from  Fort  Benton,  and  even  from  the 
mouth  of  Milk  river,  find  fair  wagon  roads  to  the  St.  Mary's  valley.  By  the  mail  which  takes 
this  communication  I  shall  forward  a  report  upon  wagon  roads,  from  which  it  will  be  seen  that 
but  little  labor  is  required  to  open  a  tolerably  good  road  through  to  Wallah-Wallah. 
Very  respectfully,  sir,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Command  of  Exploration. 

Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington. 

P.  S. — Within  six  hours  of  writing  the  above,  Mr.  Tinkham  reached  Olympia  from  the  Sno- 
qualme  Pass,  and  bringing  information  of  the  most  important  character;  the  snow  deposited  in 
layers  of  one  or  two  feet,  but  six  or  seven  feet  deep  for  some  six  miles,  and  one  and  a  half  foot 
or  more  for  only  about  forty-five  additional  miles,  and  undisturbed  by  wind,  and  offering  not  the 
slightest  obstruction  to  the  passage  of  trains.  The  grades  good  to  Seattle,  with  a  tunnel  of  con 
siderable  length.  I  herewith  enclose  a  copy  of  Mr.  Tinkham' s  report,  and  cannot  too  much  com 
mend  the  energy  and  judgment  which  he  has  shown  in  crossing,  in  mid-winter,  the  Cascade 
range,  and  actually  bringing  to  the  sound  the  route  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass,  and  thus  accomplish 
ing  what  had  not  been  done  by  the  previous  labors  of  the  expedition. 


OLYMPIA,  W.  T.,  January  31,  1854. 

SIR:  In  compliance  with  your  instructions  of  this  date,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  follow 
ing  memoranda  of  my  late  trip  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Snoqualme  falls. 

December  23. — Left  Olympia  in  a  canoe,  manned  by  three  Indians,  for  Steilacoom.  The  party 
consisted  of  Mr.  J.  F.  Minter,  Mr.  Bigsby,  and  three  men — Roche,  Nicholls,  and  Lisette. 
Reached  Steilacoom  shortly  after  dark.  As  my  original  intention  was  to  take  horses  at  Steila 
coom  for  the  Snoqualme  falls,  and  thence  proceed  as  far  as  practicable  on  snow-shoes,  in  the 
mean  time  sending  a  canoe  to  meet  me  with  provisions  at  the  falls,  I  spent  five  days  at  Steila 
coom  in  endeavoring  to  procure  animals  and  guides.  The  few  Indians  who  knew  the  trail  were 
not  to  be  induced  to  go — representing  that  the  streams  could  not  be  crossed,  &c.,  &c.  I  also 
found  that  still  further  delay  would  be  necessary  to  procure  the  requisite  animals,  and  that  there 
was  no  certainty  of  their  being  ultimately  procured.  I  therefore  changed  my  plan,  and  deter 
mined  to  go  by  water  to  the  falls,  and  proceed  as  far  as  possible  on  foot. 

On  the  29th  I  left  Steilacoom,  late  in  the  afternoon,  with  two  canoes,  reaching  the  mouth  of 
the  Sinahomish  late  on  the  first  of  January.  This  river  empties  into  Port  Gardner,  directly 
opposite  Gedney  island.  At  its  mouth  are  extensive  sand-flats,  quite  thickly  covered  with  large 
trees  that  have  probably  been  swept  down  the  river  in  high  water.  The  harbor  between  the 
flats  and  Point  Elliot,  although  a  very  fair  one,  is  by  no  means  suitable  for  the  terminus  of  a  great 
railroad. 


LETTER    OF    CAPTAIN     MC'CLELLAN.  623 

Being  greatly  retarded  by  high  water,  we  did  not  reach  the  vicinity  of  the  falls  until  January 
7,  where  we  encamped  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  below  the  falls,  having  occupied  six  days 
in  making  a  distance  of  some  fifty-two  miles. 

Thus  far  the  weather  had  been  intensely  cold,  but  on  the  7th  it  moderated  somewhat;  and  on 
the  morning  of  the  8th  I  started  on  foot  with  Messrs.  Manter  and  Bigsby,  and  Lisette,  to  reach  a 
prairie  said  to  be  above  the  falls,  and  endeavor  to  verify,  by  actual  observation,  the  Indian  state 
ments  as  to  the  depth  of  the  snow,  &c. 

The  trail  passed  for  about  three  miles  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  was  very  hilly  and  much 
obstructed  by  brushwood  and  snow.  We  then  crossed  the  river  in  a  small  canoe,  and  found  our 
selves  at  the  edge  of  the  prairie ;  walking  on  about  two  miles,  we  reached  the  bivouac  of  the 
Indian  horse -guard.  Before  arriving  at  the  falls,  I  had  met  quite  a  number  of  Snoqualme  Indians 
(among  them  the  chief,  Pat  Canem,)  and  some  Yakimas,  spending  the  winter  on  this  side  of  the 
mountains.  I  uniformly  made  inquiries  of  them  in  relation  to  the  mountains,  snow,  &c.,  and 
endeavored  to  procure  guides.  One  Yakima  gave  a  reluctant  consent  to  accompany  me  as  far 
towards  the  pass  as  it  was  possible  to  go,  but  the  next  morning  he  flatly  refused  to  go,  saying 
that  he  wrould  surely  lose  his  life  in  the  attempt.  The  statement  of  all  these  Indians,  given  at 
different  times  and  places,  was  uniformly  the  same,  and  to  this  effect: 

That  on  the  prairie  we  could  find  little  or  no  snow;  that  as  we  left  the  prairie  we  could  find 
the  snow  gradually  increase  in  depth  until,  at  the  falls  of  the  Nooksai-Nooksai,  (at  the  head  of 
which  valley  is  the  pass  improperly  called  the  Snoqualme  Pass,)  it  would  be  about  to  the  arm 
pits,  and  thence  towards  the  summit  gradually  increase  to  the  depth  of  some  25  feet ;  in  addition, 
that  it  is  so  light  and  dry  as  to  make  the  use  of  snow-shoes  impracticable;  but  that  at  the  expi 
ration  of  "two  moons  and  a  half"  (about  the  end  of  March,)  the  snow  would  pack  down  and 
harden  so  that  either  horses  or  snow-shoes  might  be  used. 

I  found  the  prairie  to  be  about  as  represented — in  places  bare,  but  in  others  with  three  or  four 
inches  of  snow.  Leaving  my  companions  at  the  Indian  bivouac  to  make  the  best  preparations 
they  could  for  passing  the  night,  (for  we  had  neither  tent,  blanket,  nor  overcoat,)  I  went  forward 
on  the  trail  with  two  Indians. 

As  soon  as  we  left  the  prairie  the  ground  became  entirely  covered  with  snow ;  it  soon  became 
a  foot  deep  in  the  shallowest  spots,  and  was  constantly  increasing.  All  signs  of  a  trail  were 
obliterated — the  underbrush  very  thick  and  loaded  with  snow — the  snow  unfit  for  snow-shoes, 
according  to  the  Indians.  I  now  turned  back  to  our  bivouac,  and  there  awaited  the  arrival  of  an 
Indian  who  was  out  hunting,  and  who  was  said  to  possess  much  information  about  the  country. 

He  soon  arrived,  and  proved  to  be  a  very  intelligent  Yakima,  whom  I  had  seen  on  the  other 
side  of  the  mountains  in  the  summer.  He  had  been  hunting  in  the  direction  I  wished  to  go,  and 
stated  that  the  snow  soon  increased  to  "waist-deep"  long  before  reaching  the  Nooksai-Nooksai, 
and  that  it  was  positively  impracticable  to  use  snow-shoes.  He  also  said  that  the  Indians  did  not 
pretend  to  cross  the  mountains  at  this  season,  but  waited  until  about  the  end  of  March,  and  then 
took  their  horses  over. 

Next  morning,  after  again  questioning  this  Indian,  I  reluctantly  determined  to  return,  being 
forced  to  the  conclusion,  that  if  the  attempt  to  reach  the  pass  were  not  really  impracticable,  it 
was  at  least  inexpedient  under  all  the  circumstances  in  which  I  was  placed.  On  the  10th  I 
started  down  the  river,  and  on  the  evening  of  the  llth  camped  near  the  mouth.  The  prairie 
above  the  falls  is  about  two  and  a  half  miles,  in  length,  by  some  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  width. 
The  soil  is  of  black  loam  and  is  very  rich;  in  summer  it  is  covered  with  grass  and  fern.  There 
were  about  eighteen  Yakima  horses  there  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  all  in  very  poor  condition ; 
several  died  this  winter,  and  probably  more  will  meet  the  same  fate  before  spring.  I  estimated 
the  height  of  the  falls  to  be  130  to  150  feet  high;  they  are  very  beautiful. 

The  Sinahomish  forks  about  eighteen  miles  from  its  mouth  ;  the  north  fork  is  called  the  Sky- 
whamish,  and  the  south  fork  the  Snoqualme.  The  general  course  from  the  mouth  of  the  Sina- 


624  LETTER    OF    CAPTAIN    MC'CLELLAN. 

homish  to  the  falls  of  the  Snoqualme  is  S.  17°  E.  There  are  also  falls  on  the  Skywhamish,  the 
Nooksai-Nooksai,  (that  branch  of  the  D'Wamish  which  heads  in  the  pass,)  the  Steilaghaumish, 
the  Seatchel,  &c.  Above  the  falls  of  the  Nooksai-Nooksai  is  a  large  lake. 

With  the  exception  of  one  small  prairie,  (now  cultivated  by  the  Indians,)  about  ten  miles  below 
the  falls,  the  bottom  of  the  Sinahomish  and  Snoqualme  is  very  indifferent,  generally  consisting  of 
pure  sand,  covered  with  one  or  two  inches  of  soil.  The  section  of  the  bluffs  is  of  sand,  clay  and 
gravel,  occasionally  argillaceous  rock,  stratiiied  and  unstratified.  The  timber  is  generally  poor — 
a  great  deal  of  colton-wood,  indifferent  cedar,  and  fir;  maple  and  alder  are  also  met  with.  In 
some  places  there  are  small  tracts  of  good  fir  and  cedar. 

There  is  said  to  be  some  good  land  on  the  Skywhamish  a  few  miles  above  its  junction  with 
the  Snoqualme.  The  Skywhamish  is  rather  the  larger  of  the  two.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  Sina 
homish  are  extensive  cranberry  swamps.  The  bottoms  are  usually  wide,  flat,  and  subject  to 
overflow  ;  occasionally,  ridges  border  the  stream.  There  is  a  foot-trail  from  a  point  on  the  Sno 
qualme,  about  eight  miles  below  the  falls,  to  the  large  lake  behind  Seattle  ;  one  day  from  the 
Snoqualme  to  the  lake — one  more  to  Seattle,  in  a  canoe. 

If  there  is  any  coal  in  the  valley  of  the  Sinahomish  it  will  be  found  some  little  distance  back, 
in  a  bluff  about  twelve  miles  above  the  mouth.  The  river  would  be  easily  navigable  for  small 
steamers  to  this  point,  in  low  water. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Sinahomish  I  went,  via  Port  Susan  and  the  canoe  channel,  to  the  head 
(north  extremity)  of  Macdonough's  island,  intending  to  proceed  to  Bellingham  bay.  We  en 
camped  on  the  island  the  night  of  the  12th. 

During  that  night  six  inches  of  snow  fell,  and  a  violent  gale  arose,  so  that  on  the  next  day  we 
were  unable  to  proceed.  On  the  next  day,  (14th,)  the  wind  still  continuing  dead  ahead,  and  very 
violent,  I  turned  back,  taking  the  Saratoga  passage,  and  encamped  that  night  on  Gedney  island, 
where  there  is  an  excellent  spring. 

On  the  15th  camped  on  the  small  lake  which  connects  with  the  salt  water,  about  five  miles  to 
the  north  of  Seattle. 

On  the  16th  reached  Seattle ;  the  floating  ice  gave  us  much  trouble.  On  the  morning  of  the 
17th  abandoned  the  idea  of  going  up  the  D'Wamish,  the  ice  being  so  thick  and  abundant  as  to 
close  the  passage. 

Reached  Steilacoom,  in  a  heavy  gale,  on  the  18th. 

The  result  of  my  examination  as  to  harbors  is,  that  of  all  the  harbors  between  the  north  end 
of  Whidby's  island  and  Olympia,  that  of  Seattle  is  by  far  the  best,  being  well  protected  against 
the  wind,  having  thirty  fathoms  of  water,  a  most  excellent  holding-ground,  being  easily  ap 
proached  from  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  and  having  a  good  back  country.  It  is,  therefore,  in  my 
opinion,  the  proper  terminus  for  any  railroad  extending  to  the  waters  commonly  known  as  Puget 
sound. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

GEO.  B.  McCLELLAN, 
Lieutenant  Engineers  and  Bvt.  Capt.  U.  S.  Army. 

His  Excellency  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  Survey. 

The  majority  of  Snoqualme  Indians  are  now  at  Seattle,  Alki,  and  Steilacoom.  There  are  now 
but  seven  of  their  houses  near  the  falls,  and  some  four  Yakima  houses. 

I  should  have  stated  that  the  barometer  taken  with  us  was  entirely  unfit  for  use. 

From  the  point  above  the  Snoqualme  falls  where  we  turned  back,  we  obtained  a  good  view  of 
the  country  towards  the  pass. 


LETTER    OP    A.   W.   TINKHAM.  625 

FORT  WALLAH- WALLAH, 

January  2,  1854. 

DEAR  SIR  :  Your  express  reached  me  very  opportunely.  I  arrived  here  Friday  evening,  De 
cember  30,  and  Mclntosh  came  in  the  next  day.  Acting  under  instructions  delivered  in  St.  Ma 
ry's  valley,  I  had  already  made  my  preparations,  and  two  days  later  I  should  probably  have  been 
again  moving  westward.  I  should,  however,  as  formerly  directed,  have  taken  the  route  pursued 
by  the  emigrants,  and  crossed  the  Cascade  range  by  the  Nahchess  Pass. 

A  brief  note  about  my  movements  since  leaving  you  in  St.  Mary's  valley.  Winding  along  the 
hills  edging  upon  the  western  border  of  Flathead  lake,  and  tracing  iirst  the  main  stream  of  Clark's 
fork,  and  then  its  northeastern  fork  till  this  stream  ran  out,  we  attained  the  summit  of  Marias  Pass 
on  the  20th  of  October,  without  snow,  but  with  the  snow  flying  in  the  air  as  we  crossed.  Camp 
ing  in  the  valley,  immediately  under  the  mountains,  on  the  eastern  side,  that  night  it  commenced 
snowing,  and  from  that  time  until  we  made  our  third  passage  of  the  Rocky  mountains  the  weather 
was  generally  cold  and  snowy. 

The  pass  I  find  to  be  impracticable  as  a  wagon  route,  and  available  for  a  railroad  only  with 
high  grades,  for  about  twenty-five  miles,  and  with  a  tunnel  of  at  least  two  miles  in  length,  the 
mountain  work  being  also  generally  rock  cutting.  The  height  of  the  pass  is  about  7,500  feet. 
The  long  approach  to  the  summit  led  me  to  hope  for  a  better  result.  Descending  on  the  eastern 
slopes  the  next  day  after  the  passage,  we  attained  the  prairies  soon  after  noon,  while  our  time 
from  Flathead  lake  to  the  summit  was  about  a  week.  On  the  plains  the  temperature  was  quite 
low  during  the  week  that  we  were  getting  to  Fort  Benton,  moderating  as  we  approached  the 
Missouri,  but  for  the  most  of  the  lime  rating  in  the  morning  as  low  as  3°  to  5°  above  zero 
Fahrenheit. 

Two  mules  were  left  on  the  plains  before  we  could  get  to  the  fort.  At  the  fort  there  was  no 
snow.  We  arrived  there  on  the  2Sth  day  of  October,  having  had  a  longer  trip  than  was  antici 
pated,  with  animals  a  good  deal  tired,  and  out  of  provisions.  The  Piegan  boy,  acting  as  guide 
to  Lander,  was  left  at  the  fort.  I  found  Mr.  Doty  almost  destitute  of  serviceable  animals,  having 
just  despatched  the  best  of  his  stock  to  Lieutenant  Grover.  Some  dozen  or  thirteen  animals, 
including  three  government  animals,  had  also  just  been  stolen  by  the  Indians,  so  that  from  Mr. 
Doty  I  was  unable  to  obtain  more  than  five  animals  which  proved  of  use  to  me.  Of  the  stolen 
animals  I  learned  more  subsequently,  which  will  be  referred  to  in  my  report. 

The  last  day  of  October  we  crossed  the  Missouri  just  below  the  fort,  and  the  day  being  well 
spent,  encamped  soon  after  on  a  small  tributary,  just  hid  from  the  main  river  by  the  high  banks 
rising  on  either  side  of  the  river  in  that  vicinity.  That  night  it  commenced  snowing  again,  and 
so  continued  during  a  great  portion  of  the  time,  until  we  were  on  the  western  side  of  the  mount 
ains.  The  passage  of  the  mountains  was  made  by  the  trail  used  by  the  Flatheads  in  going  to 
and  from  the  buffalo  ground,  lies  between  Cadotte's  Pass  and  the  pass  traversed  by  Lieutenant 
Mullan,  and  descends  into  the  plains  by  Hell  Gate  fork,  intersecting  Lieutenant  Mullan's  route 
some  two  or  three  days  after  passing  the  summit.  This  is  the  trail  almost  always  used  by  the 
Flatheads;  and  knowing  no  such  stream  as  Jefferson's  fork,  our  guide  supposed,  and  probably 
will  always  suppose,  that,  as  directed  by  you,  he  carried  us  through  the  great  Flathead  trail  at 
the  head  of  Jefferson's  fork,  this  being  the  principal  trail  used  in  the  buffalo  hunt. 

Did  I  care  to  undeceive  him,  it  would  have  been  too  late  when  I  became  convinced  that  what 
I  had  already  supposed  was  true.  I,  however,  gave  no  preference  to  the  examination  of  the  pass 
on  the  head  of  Jefferson's  fork,  especially  as  my  instructions  left  me  free  to  the  action  of  my 
judgment,  and  the  cold  and  snow  were  urging  us  forward  to  as  speedy  transit  of  the  mountains  as 
was  possible.  November  the  10th  we  made  our  third  passage  of  the  mountains,  crossing  in  com 
pany  with  a  large  party  of  Pend  d'Oreilles,  and  from  this  time  forward  our  usually  lonely  march 
was  enlivened  constantly  with  the  presence  of  Indians — Pend  d'Oreilles,  Flatheads,  and  a  few 
Nez  Perces — moving  forward  in  common  with  us,  and  with  their  multitude  of  animals  always  in 
79/ 


626  LETTER    OF    A.    W.    TINKHAM. 

sight,  stretching  along  the  trail  for  miles.  The  Indians  were  loaded  down  with  meat,  and  among 
the  multitude  of  horses  one  could  scarcely  detect  a  single  animal  free  from  pack  or  rider.  Trav 
elling  somewhat  faster  than  the  Indians,  each  day  would  bring  us  among  a  new  set,  who,  crossing 
the  mountains  before  us,  were  pretty  well  down  the  valley  when  we  were  on  the  summit.  The 
height  of  the  pass  is  about  G,000  feet  above  the  sea,  the  dividing  ridge  being  a  mere  hill,  of  not 
over  half  the  height  of  that  of  Cadotte's  Pass  ;  sloping  off  gently  on  the  western  side,  and  rising, 
not  abruptly,  on  the  eastern  side.  It  may,  perhaps,  give  a  better  idea  of  this  ascent  to  notice 
our  passage  up  it.  The  Indians  got  in  movement  before  us,  and,  with  the  passage  of  their  animals 
and  lodge-poles,  the  road  soon  became  icy  and  slippery.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  our  animals  got 
crowded  in  with  those  of  the  Indians,  and,  anxious  to  get  our  packs  by  themselves  and  free, 
Pearson  drove  past  the  Indians  on  a  trot,  making  his  way  by  as  he  passed  up  the  hill.  Wagons 
could  be  carried  up  without  difficulty. 

The  second  crossing  of  the  Missouri  was  made  under  such  circumstances  as  to  force  our  guide 
for  awhile  to  abandon  the  route  which  he  intended  to  pursue,  and  brought  us  for  awhile  in  among 
the  rocks  crowding  upon  the  river.  The  weather  was  very  cold,  the  river  high  and  rapid,  and 
filled  with  floating  ice,  and  he  did  not  dare  to  make  the  passage  where  he  intended.  There  was 
accordingly  about  forty  miles  here  until  we  struck  in  upon  a  trail  which  wound  some  distance 
back  from  the  river,  which  is  not  practicable  for  the  passage  of  wagons,  and  could  not  be  made 
so  at  any  reasonable  expense.  I  have  no  doubt  that  in  this  interval  a  wagon  road  can  be  found, 
either  passable  in  its  present  condition,  or  which  can  be  made  so  at  a  reasonable  expense.  Ar 
riving  at  St.  Mary's,  and  having  there  an  interpreter,  I  was  informed  that  this  is  the  cjase.  With 
this  exception,  I  consider  that  a  wagon  could  be  carried  from  Fort  Benton  to  St.  Mary's  by  the 
route  which  I  pursued,  and  in  its  present  condition.  I  do  not  mean  to  say  that  the  route  should 
not  be  worked  over,  but  only  that  an  emigrant  could  pass  over  the  route  without  encountering 
greater  obstacles  than  an  emigrant  ought  to  be  prepared  to  meet  and  overcome,  and  in  a  time  not 
greater  than  three  weeks;  sometimes,  to  be  sure,  doubling  his  team,  and  sometimes  taking  to  the 
river  when  the  trail  passes  along  a  too  steep  side-hill;  but  these  occasions  are  rare.  The  descent 
by  Hell  Gate  fork  is  much  superior  to  that  by  Blackfoot  fork.  The  wagon  route  across  the 
mountains,  I  believe,  will  be  found  easier  by  Hell  Gate  fork  than  by  any  other  passage,  for  per 
haps  a  hundred  miles  north  or  south  of  it.  The  railroad  route,  I  think,  is  better  by  Cadotte's 
Pass,  or  by  the  one  which  Mr.  Lander  reconnoitred  by  the  north  fork  of  Sun  river,  simply 
because  the  approach  to  the  mountains  from  the  eastern  prairie  is  much  easier  and  cheaper  for  a 
railroad,  avoiding  the  rocky  and  turbulent  character  of  the  country  in  which  the  Missouri  is  for 
some  distance  involved  above  the  falls.  The  immediate  approach  and  passage  of  the  mountains 
at  the  head  of  Hell  Gate  fork  is  good.  A  tunnel  of  not  over  one  mile  in  length,  without  high 
grades,  would  probably  effect  the  passage.  The  valley  of  this  fork  is  also  better  for  a  railroad 
than  the  Blackfoot  fork. 

On  the  17th  November  I  reached  the  camp  of  Lieutenant  Mullan.  The  regret  which  I  felt,  to 
some  extent,  at  not  being  able  to  examine  the  pass  at  the  head  of  Jefferson's  fork,  is  diminished 
by  learning  that  Lieutenant  Mullan  examined  the  country  at  the  head  of  this  fork,  and  the  report 
of  his  survey,  transmitted  by  me,  is  forwarded  with  this  communication. 

Lieutenant  Mullan  I  found  in  camp  about  fourteen  miles  above  Fort  Owen,  and  on  the  19th  of 
November,  with  a  liberal  supply  of  good  animals  (twenty-five  in  number)  to  guard  against  the 
anticipated  severities  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  I  left  the  agreeable  and  comfortable  quarters 
of  Camp  Stevens,  and  once  more  turned  towards  the  mountains.  In  St.  Mary's  valley  there 
was  no  snow,  and,  in  fact,  we  had  a  mild  rain  while  I  was  there.  Towards  the  close  of 
the  week  succeeding  we  were  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  dividing  the  waters  of  St.  Mary's 
river  from  the  waters  making  into  Lewis's  fork.  Immediately  on  turning  out  of  the  valley 
of  St.  Mary's  to  follow  up  its  southwesterly  fork,  its  bright,  open  character  was  lost,  and 
the  valley  was  narrow  and  chilly,  the  snow  lying  on  the  ground  and  the  grass  growing  scattered 


LETTER    OP    A.    W.   TINKHAM.  627 

and  scanty.  The  snow  continued  to  increase  in  depth  until,  as  the  valley  ran  out,  it  was  quite 
two  feet  deep.  Thence  onward  over  the  mountains  for  some  distance,  (about  thirty  miles,)  the 
snow  was  from  two  to  three  feet  deep,  the  horses  toiling  slowly  through  it,  and  getting  but  little 
to  eat.  Our  least  day's  journey  was  six  miles.  Descending  to  the  valley  of  a  stream  with 
which  I  was  then  unacquainted,  and  then  supposed,  from  the  information  which  our  Nez  Perces 
guide  gave  me,  to  be  a  branch  of  the  Lou-Lou  fork  of  St.  Mary's  river,  the  snow  again  died  out. 
Leaving  this  stream,  the  trail  again  took  to  the  hills,  much  to  my  disappointment;  and  some  half 
dozen  miles  from  this  stream,  and  about  nine  days  after  leaving  St.  Mary's,  I  was  shut  up  in  the 
snow  at  least  four  feet  deep,  with  a  steep  hill  before  us,  up  which  it  was  impossible  for  the 
animals  to  make  their  way. 

By  breaking  out  the  path  on  foot,  then  following  with  the -spare  animals,  then  the  riding- 
animals  with  their  saddles,  and  last  the  pack-animals,  I  had  succeeded  thus  far  in  making  my 
way  along.  It  being  near  night  then,  I  camped  on  the  spot,  and,  as  everything  which  could 
afford  them  food  was  buried  deep  beneath  the  snow,  the  animals  were  turned  back  to  seek  the 
pasture  they  had  left  in  the  morning.  The  next  day  was  spent  in  reconnoitring  ahead  and  break 
ing  out  a  path.  Ahead  nothing  could  be  discovered  but  snow  and  hills.  That  night  it  snowed 
heavily,  adding  some  two  feet.  Attempting  to  regain  the  animals,  I  became  convinced  that  it 
was  impossible  to  get  them  any  farther  ahead,  and  immediately  commenced  preparing  for  the 
balance  ot  the  journey  on  foot.  At  this  camp  I  remained  a  week,  making  snow-shoes  and  sleds, 
and,  as  the  snow  eventually  gave  place  to  a  rain,  in  tramping  roads.  At  the  end  of  the  week 
the  animals  were  once  more  brought  to  the  trench,  and  once  more,  just  at  night,  were  shut  up  in 
their  narrow  path,  walled  in  by  the  snow.  Our  efforts  were,  however,  utterly  useless ;  our  road 
would  not  sustain  them,  and  a  few  minutes'  struggling  was  sufficient  to  wear  out  our  best  horses. 
Convinced  that  any  further  delay  would  not  only  be  useless  but  dangerous,  I  moved  forward 
next  day  with  snow-shoes,  and  packs  on  our  backs. 

We  had  twenty-five  good  animals  in  the  mountains,  which,  if  left  there,  would  almost  to  a 
certainty  be  every  one  dead  before  the  close  of  winter;  and  with  a  considerable  addition  of 
valuable  property  in  the  shape  of  saddles,  blankets,  arms,  &c.,  and  the  peculiarity  of  my  position 
induced  me  to  make  a  proposition  to  my  men  which,  under  other  circumstances,  I  should  not 
feel  justified  in  doing;  but  with  these  considerations  will,  I  trust,  meet  with  your  approval. 
Pearson  and  French  were  sent  back  with  the  animals  and  all  that  was  valuable  of  the  public 
property,  and  to  them  I  guarantied  (subject  to  your  approval)  the  extra  compensation  of  twenty 
dollars  per  animal,  should  they  succeed  in  getting  them  safely  to  St.  Mary's.  In  reaching  our 
camp  of  that  date,  we  had  passed  through  over  thirty  miles  of  deep  snow;  and,  although  the  trail 
which  we  made  at  that  time  undoubtedly  would  facilitate  their  return,  since  then  we  had  had  a 
deep  snow,  and  the  return  could  not  be  made  without  some  uncertainty  and  risk — considering, 
too,  that  if  they  do  not  reach  the  Territory  seasonably  their  detention  would,  as  they  felt,  cause 
them  pecuniary  loss — I  looked  upon  their  attempt  to  restore  public  property  to  a  place  of  safety 
as  an  act  of  extraordinary  services,  and  justifying  an  extra  compensation  as  an  inducement. 

It  was  their  intention  to  descend  from  St.  Mary's  by  water,  but  I  think  that  a  further  consider 
ation  will  have  induced  them  to  give  up  this  method  of  return,  and  with  horses  to  take  the  trail 
pursued  by  Lieut.  Donelson.  It  is  now  thirty  days  since  we  separated,  and  as,  after  leaving  St. 
Mary's,  they  will  travel  rapidly,  I  expect  their  arrivaMiere'  soon  after  my  departure. 

Unused  to  packing  and  snow-shoes,  we  were  fifteen  days  before  breaking  through  the  woods 
and  mountains.  Of  clothing  we  took  little  other  than  what  we  wore  ;  I  took  only  two  pairs  of 
socks  and  two  pairs  of  moccasins.  Wilson,  Bracken,  Agnew,  and  the  guide,  made  my  party. 
Each  of  us  had  two  blankets  and  a  tin  cup. 

Our  provisions  were,  excepting  for  a  few  days  at  starting,  flour  and  salt.  At  starting  our  packs 
weighed  from  fifty  to  seventy  pounds,  and,  climbing  along  the  steep  hill-sides,  over  the  crust,  we 
found  it  at  first  very  laborious,  making  at  the  outset  three,  then  six,  and  ten  or  t\velve  miles  a 


628  LETTER    OP    A.    W.    TINKHAM. 

day  in  the  course  of  die  week,  the  trail  being  very  hilly  and  tiresome.  Striking  the  more  level 
country  of  the  Nez  Perces,  we  found  the  labor  of  travelling  very  much  diminished. 

Arriving  among  the  Nez  Perces,  we  here  emerged  from  the  snow.  With  the  Indians  I  spent 
several  clays,  rinding  in  their  hospitable  lodge  an  agreeable  contrast  with  the  discomforts  of  a 
camp  in  the  snow,  with  our  somewhat  tame  fare.  At  Mr.  William  Craig's  I  spent  Christmas. 
From  him  and  the  Indians  I  hired  horses  to  come  on  here;  he  received  us  very  cordially,  and 
promptly  supplied  our  wants. 

As  already  stated,  I  reached  this  post  December "30th,  having  been  forty-two  days  on  the  road 
from  St.  Mary's. 

Notwithstanding  the  amount  of  snow  on  the  mountains,  the  weather  was  not  severe,  and  milder 
than  we  experienced  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountains  between  October  20th  and  Novem 
ber  10th. 

Here  there  is  no  snow,  and  at  no  place  between  here  and  the  mountains  (165  miles)  was  there 
over  eight  inches,  and  tha  for  a  short  lime  only. 

To-morrow  I  hope  to  get  away  from  here,  and  am  waiting  only  for  the  gathering  in  of  the  ani 
mals,  I  shall  take  ten  fresh  animals  with  me  (obtained  from  Mr.  Fambrun  and  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,)  to  be  used  only  after  arriving  at  the  mountains.  From  here  to  the  mountains  I  shall 
use  the  animals  of  the  expedition,  and  return  them  to  this  post. 

Mr.  Pambrun  has  promptly  aided  me  in  fitting  out.  Of  course,  being  bare  of  everything — 
saddles,  bridles,  mess-kit,  and  the  variety  of  little  conveniences  which  one  gathers  around  him 
in  regular  camp — our  fitting  out  is  one  of  unusual  trouble.  We  have  learned,  however,  to  dis 
pense  with  some  things  once  thought  necessary.  In  place  of  a  beef,  Pu-pu-mux-mux  supplies 
us  with  a  horse,  which  I  shall  take  with  me,  as  easier  to  be  driven,  and  kill  when  necessary. 
He  will  probably  go  with  me  for  a  short  distance,  but  is  unable  to  attend  me  throughout  the  trip. 

I  hope  to  be  able  to  cross  the  mountains  with  horses  according  to  your  expectations.  Should  I 
not  succeed,  it  is  my  intention  to  come  through  on  snow-shoes.  I  greatly  regret  that  I  shall  be 
able  to  make  but  a  very  barren  survey.  Our  fine  barometer,  brought  in  safety  by  Wilson,  had 
three  times  crossed  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  in  the  Bitter  Root  mountains  was  cached  in  perfect 
order.  It  was  impossible  to  send  it  back  to  St.  Mary's.  The  thermometer  Wilson  attempted  to 
take  along,  but  lost  it  within  a  day  or  two  after  starting.  My  prismatic  compass  was  sent  back 
to  St.  Mary's.  I  have  with  me  only  a  pocket-compass.  All  geological  specimens  which  had 
been  collected  were  left  in  the  mountains,  none  of  them  having  any  special  importance,  and  being 
only  interesting  as  showing  the  general  geological  features  of  the  country  passed  over.  Having 
a  somewhat  limited  wardrobe,  although  sufficiently  warmly  clad,  we  shall  arrive  at  the  sound 
somewhat  "rusty."  I  cannot  do  otherwise  than  gratefully  mention  the  members  of  my  party, 
particularly  Wilson,  Agnew,  and  Bracken,  as  being  very  deserving  of  your  commendation. 

They  have  discharged  their  duties  well  and  cheerfully,  and  cheerfully  respond  to  my  decision 
to  pass  this  the  Cascade  range,  although  prior  to  our  arrival  here  we  anticipated  other  instruc 
tions  ;  and  supposing  that  you  would  send  parties  from  the  main  train  over  this  route,  I  had 
assured  them  that  it  was  altogether  improbable  that  we  should  have  any  further  mountain  work. 
Learning  from  Mr.  Pambrun  that  no  parties  went  through  from  here,  I  decided  at  once  to  take 
the  mountain  route,  and  indeed,  under  existing  circumstances,  give  it  the  preference. 

As  I  said  before,  your  express  arrived  vrery  seasonably.  I  have  confidence  in  the  realization  of 
your  expectations,  that  the  pass  will  admit  of  the  passage  of  animals  in  the  winter,  and  have  a 
wish  to  see  the  winter  character  of  the  country  bordering  on  the  railroad  line.  Your  instructions 
enjoin  upon  me  to  fit  out  more  thoroughly  than  I  had  done ;  and,  indeed,  I  just  doubled  the 
amount  of  rations  which  I  had  made  ready,  besides  adding  one  or  two  comforts,  such  as  coffee 
and  sugar. 

Should  I  leave  my  animals,  which  is  of  course  possible,  as  even  on  the  plains  they  are  some 
times  lost,  I  shall  not  feel  that  they  were  brought  into  the  mountains  on  my  own  responsibility  > 


LETTER   OF   A.    W.    TINKHAM.  629 

and  should  not  at  any  rate  have  felt  justified  in  purchasing  fresh  animals.     More  than  this,  I  am 
able  to  act  intelligibly  as  to  the  character  of  the  passes. 

This  being  celebrated  here  as  New  Year's  day  (in  place  of  the  Sabbath,)  my  letter  has  been 
written  with  fiddling  and  dancing;  and  dancing,  too,  where  not  only  the  "fantastic  toe"  played 
its  part,  but  where  the  heel  drummed  out  a  vigorous  accompaniment.  This  may  apologize  for  its 
somewhat  dispirited  character. 

Arriving  at  the  Sound  so  much  later  than  the  parties  which  have  preceded  me,  you  will  not 
consider  it  unreasonable  for  me  to  request  that  my  early  return  to  the  States  be  facilitated  as 
much  as  possible,  and  that  it  may  occur  as  soon  as  the  accomplishment  of  my  duties  will  admit. 

Having  quite  a  large  mail  (fifty  communications,)  I  was  obliged  to  strip  all  envelopes  and 
waste-paper  in  order  to  save  weight.  You  may  accordingly  find  their  order  of  arrangement 
somewhat  disturbed.  Everything,  however,  has  been  kept  from  injury,  and  your  several  com 
munications  are  transmitted  in  perfect  condition. 

My  letter  I  leave  open  until  to-rnorrow. 

January  3. — I  have  nothing  of  consequence  to  add.     The  animals  have  not  yet  come  in ;  but  I 
am  constantly  expecting  them,  and  expect  to  swim  the  river  and  make  camp  a  short  distance  from 
here.     Two  of  the  tribe  of  Wallah-Wallahs  go  with  me  as  far  as  the  Mission,  and  there  I  expect 
to  obtain  a  fresh  guide.     The  day  is  fine  and  the  weather  mild. 
Very  truly,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  W.  TJNKHAM. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Olympia,  Washington  Territory. 


OLYMPIA,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 

February  1,   1S54. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  herewith  a  brief  report  of  my  recent  exploration  from  Fort 
Wallah- Wallah,  Columbia  river,  to  Puget  sound,  by  way  of  the  Snoqualme  Pass  of  the  Cascade 
mountains,  regretting  that,  for  causes  explained  in  a  former  letter  to  you,  I  had  means  only  for 
conducting  so  meagre  a  survey. 

Your  instructions  of  December  12,  despatched  by  special  messenger  from  this  place,  reached 
me  at  Wallah- Wallah  on  the  30th  of  the  same  mouth,  and  the  day  after  my  arrival  there.  The 
Cascade  range,  barring  up  the  direct  approach  to  the  sound  from  the  open  and  favorable  valleys 
of  the  Columbia  and  its  northern  tributaries,  had,  from  the  earliest  consideration  of  the  survey, 
been  to  me  one  of  its  great  features  of  interest ;  and,  impelled  by  the  desire  to  know  by  actual 
observation  its  obstacles  or  facilities,  as  affecting  the  construction  of  a  railroad,  I  had,  previous  to 
the  arrival  of  your  despatch,  made  arrangements  to  pass  through  this  range  of  mountains  in 
closing  up  my  route  to  the  Pacific.  Your  despatch  put  me  in  possession  of  such  information  as 
enabled  me  to  proceed  intelligently,  and  at  the  same  time  furnished  me  with  such  resources  as  to 
secure  me  from  any  unnecessary  risk  and  exposure  to  be  apprehended  from  crossing  this  import 
ant  range  of  mountains  in  mid-winter. 

The  several  members  of  my  little  party  had  cheerfully  responded  to  my  wish  to  attempt  the 
proposed  exploration,  although  they  had  just  escaped  from  a  long  and  somewhat  tiresome  deten 
tion  in  the  mountain  snows  of  the  Bitter  Root  range,  and  it  was  from  no  reluctance  on  their  part 
that  I  saw  fit  to  release  them  from  any  further  winter  work  in  the  mountains,  and  to  go  forward 
alone. 

On  the  7th  of  January,  with  two  Wallah-Wallah  Indians,  I  proceeded  up  the  Columbia  till  it 
receives  the  waters  of  the  Yakima  river,  and  then  taking  this  latter  stream,  turned  westvvardly  to 
trace  its  waters  to  their  source,  in  the  close  vicinity  of  which  also  spring  the  headwaters  of  the 
Snoqualme  and  White  rivers,  emptying  into  Puget  sound.  The  valley  of  the  Yakima,  adjacent 


630  LETTER   OF   A.   W.   TINKHAM. 

to  the  Columbia,  is  wide,  open,  and  devoid  of  timber,  except  in  the  bottom-lands  of  the  river,  and 
even  there  the  trees  in  any  considerable  quantity  are  not  found  -until  one  passes  up  the  river 
some  forty  miles  from  its  mouth,  about  seventeen  miles  above  Wallah- Wallah.  Scattered  along 
the  banks  of  the  river,  in  their  winter  lodges,  are  small  encampments  of  the  Wallah-Wallah  and 
Yakima  Indians,  subsisting  on  their  summer  gatherings  of  dried  salmon,  potatoes,  dried  roots, 
berries,  and  occasionally  grain;  and  many  of  them  are  wealthy  in  their  herds  of  horses  and  cattle. 
These  Indians  I  ever  found  hospitable  and  kind,  and  in  a  more  full  report  I  shall  have  occasion 
to  notice  more  particularly  their  acts  of  attention.  On  the  llth  of  January  I  reached  the  Yakima 
Catholic  mission,  under  the  care  of  the  Rev.  Father  Poudery,  located  in  the  midst  of  a  division 
of  the  Yakima  tribe,  and  just  above  the  Atahnam  tributary  of  the  river.  Farther  than  this  my 
Wallah-Wallah  guides  were  unwilling  to  proceed,  and  leaving  them  here,  I  obtained,  with  somo 
little  delay,  the  services  of  two  Yakima  Indians.  The  Indians,  secure  in  their  lodges,  wero 
unwilling  to  exchange  their  shelter  for  a  cold  and  laborious  passage  of  the  mountains,  and  1  am 
particularly  indebted  to  Father  Poudery  for  his  aid  in  securing  the  two  who  accompanied  me,  and 
who  throughout  have  proved  faithful  and  serviceable. 

Passing  over  the  intermediate  portion  of  the  route,  on  the  17th  of  January  I  arrived  within 
three  or  four  miles  of  the  Kle-al-um  lake,  the  source  of  one  of  the  principal  forks  of  the  Yakima 
river.  To  this  point  I  had  travelled  without  difficulty  with  horses,  and  here  was  to  commence 
the  most  laborious  part  of  the  exploration.  The  snow  was  now  about  two  feet  deep,  and  the 
weather  for  several  days  had  been  intensely  cold — not  more  cold  than  is  experienced  in  all  our 
northern  Atlantic  States  at  this  season;  but  severe  for  continuous  exposure,  day  and  night,  with 
out  other  than  the  slight  protection  I  found  it  convenient  to  bring  with  me.  Packing  on  snow- 
shoes  had  previously  taught  me  to  dispense  with  everything  not  absolutely  essential  to  one's 
sustenance  and  health ;  and  to  make  my  camp  equipage  as  light  as  possible  I  had  thrown  aside 
my  tent. 

No  grass  could  be  obtained  near  here,  and  the  few  Indians  residing  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake 
were  without  animals  ;  but  thirty  miles  lower  down  on  the  river  the  snow  was  very  light — not 
over  three  to  four  inches  deep ;  the  grass  was  good  and  exposed,  and  the  Indian  horses  were  in 
good  condition.  Extending  still  farther  down,  and  reaching  the  Wallah-Wallah,  the  horses  in 
thousands  are  ranging  throughout  the  borders  of  the  valley,  with  abundant  grass,  and  rarely  with 
any  trouble  from  the  snow. 

The  railroad  facilities  had  continued  good  from  the  entrance  into  the  valley  of  the  Yakima,  the 
valley  being  generally  several  miles  wide,  with  hills  rising  gradually  on  either  side  of  the  river, 
and  rarely  closing  in  upon  its  banks.  The  valley  was  now  narrow ;  the  firs  and  pines  had  inter 
mixed  and  mingled  with  the  cotton-wood  of  the  bottoms  of  the  stream,  and  were  soon  to  become 
the  exclusive  growth.  Here,  too,  commences  the  wooded  region  extending' to  the  shores  of  the 
Pacific,  and  where  exhaustless  stores  of  firs  and  cedars  will  not  only  furnish  the  building  material 
for  a  railroad,  but  will,  from  its  resources,  with  suitable  means  of  transportation,  supply  the  wants 
of  the  country  east  of  it,  lacking  in  timber  and  fuel. 

Sending  back  my  horses  in  the  care  of  an  Indian,  to  be  returned  to  Wallah- Wallah,  the  bal 
ance  of  the  exploration  was  conducted  on  foot,  and  with  snow-shoes  when  necessary.  To  aid  in 
packing,  and  also  from  the  necessity  of  procuring  an  additional  guide,  I  here  increased  my  Indians 
to  five  in  number.  From  them  I  obtained  dried  salmon,  which  they  have  in  abundance,  and  a 
variety  of  dried  roots.  Their  potatoes  are  not  generally  disturbed  in  the  colder  portions  of 
winter. 

Yakima  river  finds  its  source  mainly  in  three  lakes,  from  four  to  ten  miles  long,  and  lying  in  a 
line  nearly  east  and  west — Kle-al-um,  Ka-ches,  and  Kitch-e-lus  lakes,  the  two  more  distant  being 
some  twenty-five  to  thirty  miles  apart.  Each  of  these  lakes  furnishes  its  tributary  to  the  main 
stream,  up  the  valley  of  which  the  railroad  encounters  little  of  serious  obstacle  until  on  the  bor 
ders  of  Kitch-e-lus  lake,  the  most  westerly  o£  the  three;  On  ihe  edge  of  this  lake  I  encamped 


LETTER   TO   THE   SECRETARY  OP  WAR.  631 

on  the  20th  of  January.  To  within  twelve  miles  of  this  camp  I  had  not  found  the  snow  to  have 
an  average  depth  greater  than  two  and  a  half  feet — a  dry,  cold  snow  ;  but  beyond  this  the  snow 
had  greatly  increased  in  depth,  varying  from  four  to  six  feet,  and  at  the  night  camp  some  four 
feet  deep.  The  lakes  were  frozen  and  covered  with  snow,  and  their  smooth,  even  surfaces 
afforded  easy  travelling  for  snow-shoes.  Some  five  miles  distant  from  this  camp,  in  the  summit 
of  the  pass,  is  what  in  the  depth  of  the  snow  I  took  to  be  a  small,  open  marsh,  but  have  since 
learned  is  a  small  pond,  whose  waters  are  turned  on  either  slope  of  the  divide.  Although,  with 
the  disadvantages  under  which  I  was  placed,  I  could  not  examine  the  pass  with  the  care  I  de 
sired,  and  with  which  I  felt  confident  it  had  been  examined  by  the  other  parties  to  whom  you  had 
committed  the  special  exploration  of  the  passage  of  the  Cascade  range,  I  was  still  satisfied  that 
it  aflbrded  fair  facilities  both  in  its  ascent  and  descent  for  a  wagon  and  railroad — either  with  the 
use  of  eighty-feet  grades  for  a  limited  number  of  miles  and  a  short  tunnel,  or  with  a  longer  tunnel 
and  easy  grades. 

Wishing  to  know  the  real  difficulty  to  be  apprehended  from  the  passage  of  these  mountains  in 
the  winter  season  by  railroad  trains,  I  gave  particular  attention  to  the  measurement  and  exami 
nation  of  the  snows  on  the  route.  From  Kitch-e-lus  lake  to  the  summit,  some  five  miles,  and 
where  occurs  the  deepest  snow,  the  average  measurement  was  about  six  feet,  but  frequently 
running  as  high  as  seven  feet.  In  a  storm  occurring  on  the  night  of  the  20th,  about  one  and  a 
half  foot  of  this  depth  was  deposited — a  very  light,  dry  snow ;  so  light  as  to  afford  no  support  to 
our  snow-shoes,  and  making  our  progress  slow  and  laborious.  The  whole  of  the  snow  was  very 
light  and  dry,  deposited  in  successive  layers  of  from  one  to  two  feet,  and  for  the  greater  part  of 
the  route  had  lain  undisturbed  since  their  fall — every  twig  and  bush  bowing  under  their  bulky 
burden.  These  snows  present  little  obstruction  to  removal  in  comparison  with  the  compact, 
drifted  snows  of  the  Atlantic  States,  and  would  cause  very  little  detention  to  the  passage  of 
trains.  Passing  on  to  the  western  slope  of  the  Cascades,  the  snow  rapidly  disappears ;  fourteen 
miles  from  the  summit  there  was  but  eight  inches  of  snow,  arid  thence  it  gradually  fades  away 
as  the  approach  is  made  to  the  shores  of  the  sound. 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  this  examination  was  made  in  mid-winter,  from  the  20th  to 
the  25th  of  January,  and  in  a  winter  known  to  be  one  of  unusual  cold,  and  that  the  accumulated 
snows  of  the  winter  were  but  about  six  feet  in  their  greatest  depth,  and  this  depth  only  covers  some 
half  dozen  miles  of  the  route,  and  embracing,  too,  that  portion  of  the  route  which  will  be  tun 
nelled  and  protected.  Descending,  the  snow  rapidly  decreases  on  both  slopes  of  the  mountain, 
on  the  eastern  side  about  thirty-five  miles  from  the  summit,  amounting  to  but  from  one  and  a 
half  to  two  feet  in  depth,  and  on  the  western  side  fading  away  until  in  the  short  distance  of  four 
teen  miles  it  is  only  eight  inches  deep. 

Without  giving  the  details  of  the  remainder  of  my  journey  to  the  sea-board,  which  in  a  more 
extended  report  may  be  noticed,  I  reached  the  vicinity  of  Seattle,  under  the  guidance  of  Indians, 
on  the  night  of  January  27,  tracing  a  very  excellent  railroad  connexion  from  the  valley  of  the 
Snoqualme  to  that  commodious  and  beautiful  harbor. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  W.  TINKHAM. 

His  Excellency  Gov.  ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Chief  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey. 


OFFICE  NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Olympia,  Washington  Territory,  February  13,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  received  your  instructions  of  December  1,  1853,  disapproving  of  my  arrangements 
for  a  winter  examination  of  the  mountain  passes,  arid  for  a  resumpiion  of  the  work  should  Con 
gress  make  an  appropriation,  and  directing  me  to  bring  my  operations  to  a  close  in  accordance 


with  the  original  instructions. 


632  LETTER   TO   THE   SECRETARY   OF   WAR. 

These  instructions  will  be  promptly  carried  out,  and  the  parties  in  the  field,  of  Lieutenant 
Grover,  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and  Mr.  Doty,  making  winter  examinations,  will  be  called  in  as 
early  as  practicable.  The  best  arrangements  will  be  made  in  the  spring  for  the  disposition  of 
the  animals  and  property.  But  1  earnestly  submit  to  the  department  the  importance  of  the  con 
tinuation  of  these  surveys,  and  indulge  the  hope  that  Congress  will  make  liberal  appropriations, 
both  in  a  deficiency  bill  and  in  the  general  appropriation  bill,  in  order  that  the  field  now  so  well 
entered  upon  may  be  fully  occupied.  In  addition  to  the  suggestions  which  I  made  at  Fort  Ben- 
ton,  I  will  respectfully  state  that  the  route  from  the  Platte  by  the  South  Pass  and  the  Great  Salt 
Lake  settlement  to  the  Columbia  river;  that  the  question  as  to  whether  a  route  can  be  found 
from  the  system  of  roads  now  pushing  westward  through  Missouri  and  Iowa,  through  the  Black 
hills,  into  the  region  between  the  Missouri  and  the  Yellowstone,  and  thence  over  the  low  passes 
examined  by  me  to  the  valley  of  Clark's  fork,  and  also  that  the  practicability  of  a  route  into  this 
same  general  region,  and  over  the  same  pass,  from  the  grand  plateau  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  the 
route  proceeding  nearly  westward,  crossing  the  Missouri  and  the  Black  hills,  ought,  in  my  judg 
ment,  to  be  thoroughly  considered  in  this  general  exploration  of  the  region  between  the  Missis 
sippi  and  the  Pacific. 

The  preliminary  report  will  be  sent,  if  by  the  greatest  exertion  it  can  be  got  in  readiness,  by 
the  steamer  which  will  leave  San  Francisco  on  the  1st  of  March,  and  at  the  same  time  the 
accounts  of  the  expenditures  in  the  survey. 

I  will  respectfully  call  the  attention  of  the  department  to  the  peculiar  circumstances  of  my  ex 
ploration,  and  which  will,  it  seems  to  me,  explain  the  exceeding  of  the  appropriation,  with  every 
desire  and  effort  on  my  part  so  to  arrange  the  scale  and  conduct  it  as  not  to  involve  a  deficiency. 
The  field  was  almost  totally  new,  rendering  it  impossible  to  form  an  estimate.  Much  work  of 
reconnaissance  had  to  be  done  which  had  previously  been  clone  for  all  the  other  routes,  before  a 
direction  could  be  given  to  the  railroad  examinations  and  estimates  proper.  Unforeseen  expenses, 
in  the  way  of  presents,  &£.,  had  to  be  incurred  to  conciliate  the  Indian  tribes;  for  our  route  was 
through  the  only  one,  so  far  as  I  was  informed,  that  at  the  time  was  deemed  particularly  dan 
gerous,  and  the  ^investigation  of  the  question  of  snow  was  a  vital  and  fundamental  one,  essential 
to  making  any  reliable  report  at  all,  and  included  within  the  express  requirements  of  the  original 
instructions.  1  deeply  regretted  the  deficiency  which  I  found  impending  at  Fort  Benton,  and  I 
took  at  that  place  that  course  which  I  believed  Congress  and  the  department  would  have  taken 
under  the  circumstances. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  jour  most  obedient, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 
Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 

Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS,  Secretary  of  War. 


WAR  DEPARTMENT,   Washington,  April  12,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  received  your  letter  of  the  13th  of  February.  The  department  does  not  doubt 
that  in  the  course  you  pursued  in  taking  measures  for  prosecuting  the  survey,  you  were  actuated 
by  zeal  for  the  success  of  the  object  in  your  charge.  Congress  having  appropriated  a  specific  sum 
for  surveys,  the  department  had  no  authority  to  authorize  any  expenditure  beyond  it,  or  the  con 
tract  of  any  debts  to  be  paid  from  future  appropriations.  An  estimate  has,  however,  been  sent 
in  for  an  appropriation  to  pay  the  arrearage  necessarily  incurred. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

JEFF'N  DAVIS, 

Stcretary  of  War. 
Gov.  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

Olympia,  Washington  Territory. 


LETTER   TO   SECRETARY  OF   WAR. — LETTER  OF  LIEUTENANT   MULL  AN.  633 

OFFICE  NORTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  EXPLORATION  AND  SURVEY, 

Olympia,  Washington  Territory,  March  6,  1854. 

SIR:  I  have  the  honor  to  inform  you  that,  on  the  4th  instant,  Garry,  the  chief  of  the  Spokanes, 
reached  this  place  with  an  express  from  the  St.  Mary's  valley,  bringing  letters  from  Lieutenant 
Mullan,  and  information  that  the  route  from  that  place  was  entirely  practicable  for  horses;  no 
snow  of  greater  depth  than  one  and  a  half  foot  having  been  found,  and  that  depth  only  in  crossing 
by  the  trail  the  divide  between  the  Jocko  and  the  Bitter  Root  liver  and  some  of  the  mountain 
spurs  that  overhang  Clark's  fork.  The  express  left  the  camp  of  Lieutenant  Mullan  on  the  17th 
of  January. 

.Lieutenant  Mullan,  on  the  28th  of  November,  left  his  camp  to  make  the  connexion  with  Fort 
Hall,  and,  crossing  the  Rocky  mountains  twice,  both  going  and  returning,  but  in  different  routes, 
he  reached  his  cantonment  on  the  12th  of  January.  A  copy  of  his  report  I  herewith  enclose.  I 
will  particularly  call  your  attention  to  his  statement  that  the  grass  was  luxuriant  in  the  mountain 
valleys ;  that  the  greatest  depth  of  snow  on  the  Rocky  Mountain  divide  was  fifteen  inches ;  and 
that  Victor,  the  Flathead  chief,  was,  at  the  date  of  his  letter,  (the  12th  of  January,)  crossing  the 
mountains  on  his  return  from  the  plains  beyond. 

I  hope  to  be  able  to  send  off  my  preliminary  report  by  this  steamer.  The  drawing  and  report 
are  all  but  finished.  A  railroad  line  is  laid  down  from  actual  observation,  (the  line  of  Lewis  and 
Clark's  Pass  and  of  the  Columbia  and  Cowlitz  rivers.)  No  grade  exceeds  fifty  feet,  and  only  for 
a  few  miles  is  the  grade  more  than  forty  feet.  There  is  but  one  tunnel,  and  that  in  crossing  the 
Rocky  Mountain  chain;  and  the  summit-level  of  the  road  is  about  five  thousand  feet  above  the 
sea.  Every  exertion  has  been  made  to  prepare  it  at  an  earlier  date;  but  the  late  arrival  of  Mr. 
Tinkham,  and  the  great  amount  of  materials  to  be  examined  and  put  together,  will  explain  to 
the  department  the  delay  which  has  occurred. 

I  expect  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Grover  in  some  two  weeks,  and  I  indulge  the  hope  that  his 
examinations  will  be  decisive  as  to  the  snow  question. 

Very  respectfully,  sir,  your  most  obedient, 

ISAAC  I.  STEVENS, 

Governor  of  Washington  Territory,  in  Charge  of  Exploration. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington,  D.  C. 


CANTONMENT  STEVENS,  BITTER  ROOT  VALLEY,  W.  T., 

January  12,  1S54. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  honor  to  report,  that  in  conformity  to  the  paragraph  of  your  letter  of  instruc 
tions,  dated  at  the  St.  Mary's  village,  of  October  3d,  1853,  "to  continue  the  exploration  of  the 
country  between  the  Rocky  and  Bitter  Root  ranges  of  mountains,  extending  to  Fort  Hall,  to  con 
nect  the  survey  of  Colonel  Fremont,  and  northward  to  the  Flathead  lake,  and  even  to  the  upper 
waters  of  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columbia,"  I  left  my  main  camp,  on  the  Bitter  Root  river,  on  the 
28th  November,  1853,  with  the  intention  of  making  the  connexion  with  Fort  Hall,  taking  with 
me  Mr.  Adams  as  artist,  the  Flathead  interpreter,  Gabriel,  as  guide,  and  three  men.  I  merely 
submit  at  present  for  your  consideration  the  general  character  of  the  route  followed,  accompanied 
by  a  rough  sketch,  intending  to  send  by  next  express,  or  by  Lieutenant  Grover,  a  detailed  report 
and  a  map  of  the  country  passed  over.  In  going  to  Fort  Hall,  I  followed  up  the  main  stream  of 
the  Bitter  Root  river  to  its  headwaters,  by  a  very  easy,  practicable,  and  beautiful  route,  to  the 
dividing  ridge  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  waters.  Here  I  found  the  ascent  steep,  and  the 
divide  very  high,  the  descent  being  very  easy  and  gradual.  Empty  wagons  can,  I  think,  how 
ever,  cross  this  divide  in  going  to  the  south,  but  freighted  ones  not.  In  going  towards  the  north 
there  is  no  difficulty  whatever,  as  wagons  this  season  have  crossed  it.  Crossing  the  dividing 
80  / 


634  LETTER   OF    LIEUTENANT    MULLAN. 

ridge,  I  fell  upon  three  of  the  head  branches  of  the  Wisdom  river,  the  principal  tributary  to  tho 
Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri ;  hence  to  thr  main  stream,  crossing  the  northwestern  branch,  being 
the  one  followed  by  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  in  their  expedition  to  the  Pacific  in  1S04  and  '5, 
and  following  up  the  southeastern  branch  to  near  its  head  by  a  very  beautiful,  easy  road  to  the 
dividing  ridge  of  the  Snake  river  waters,  crossing  by  a  very  good  road  for  pack  animals,  but  not 
for  wagons.  Here  we  fell  upon  the  Medicine  Lod^e  creek,  which  I  followed  down  for  twenty 
miles  ;  leaving  it  to  my  right,  at  the  distance  of  twelve  miles  it  forms  a  lake  called  "  Medicine 
Lodge  lake  ;"  crossing  the  sage  plain  of  Snake  River  valley  for  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles,  we  fell 
upon  a  small  mountain  stream  called  the  Camash  Prairie  creek,  which  also  forms  a  lake  in  the 
great  sage  plain  of  Snake  River  valley ;  thence  acr  ss  the  sage  plain  to  Snake  river,  or  Lewis's 
fork  of  the  Columbia,  which  I  followed  down  for  two  days,  crossing  it  by  a  ford  with  two  and  a 
half  feet  of  water,  about  twenty-one  miles  east  of  Fort  Hall,  where  I  arrived  on  the  15th  of  De 
cember,  1853.  From  the  St.  Mary's  village  to  the  waters  of  the  Missouri,  we  found  the  grass 
rich  and  luxuriant,  and  wood  in  adundance.  Scarcity  of  timber  and  barrenness  of  soil  character 
ized  the  remainder  of  the  route  to  Fort  Hall,  except  a  few  localities  along  the  Snake  river,  where 
we  found  an  abundance  of  wood,  and  very  good  grass.  Remaining  at  Cantonment  Loring  five 
days  to  recruit  my  animals,  I  left  on  the  morning  of  the  19th,  intending  to  return  by  a  new  and 
different  route;  keeping  along  .the  eastern  base  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains,  or  main  chain  of  the 
Rocky  mountains.  You  will  see  that  from  the  route  followed  to  Fort  Hall,  we  crossed  the  divid 
ing  ridge  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  waters  twice.  This  was  necessary  from  the  peculiar 
configuration  of  the  mountain  ranges,  which  are  so  formed  as  not  to  allow  of  a  practicable  route 
by  keeping  west  of  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains  the  whole  distance.  The  whole  chain 
of  mountains  from  Bitter  Root  valley  to  Fort  Hall  is  formed  of  smaller  ridges  or  chains,  arranged 
in  beds,  as  it  were,  with  beautiful  prairie  valleys  intervening,  through  which  flow  mountain 
streams,  covered  with  timber,  and  covered  with  an  abundance  of  rich  grass,  thus  giving  excellent 
recruiting  stations,  or  rendezvous  for  the  Indians,  with  their  large  bands  of  horses.  From  the 
Snake  River  mountains  to  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia  the  country,  as  far  as  I  travelled,  is  char 
acterized  by  the  exceedingly  great  abundance  of  the  artemisia  or  wild  sage  found  growing ; 
scarcity  of  grass;  extreme  barrenness  of  the  soil,  which  is  covered  in  most  places  with  large  beds  of 
black,  honey-combed,  volcanic  rock,  which  latter  is  the  great  geological  feature  that  characterizes 
the  country  for  hundreds  of  miles  along  the  Snake  River  valley.  From  the  St.  Mary's  village  to 
the  waters  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri  the  geological  formation  is  principally  granite  and 
gneiss.  On  the  waters  of  Jefferson  river  and  its  tributaries  the  geological  features  are  completely 
changed,  the  formation  becoming  limestone  and  conglomerate  principally. 

In  returning  from  Fort  Hall  I  continued  on  the  same  route  till  arriving  at  the  main  stream  of 
the  Jefferson  river.  Here  our  course  lay  more  to  the  east.  Crossing  the  Jefferson  river  we  fell 
upon  the  main  stream  of  Wisdom  river,  a  few  miles  a,bove  its  mouth,  passing  between  the 
"Rattlesnake  Bluffs"  and  "Beaver's  Head,"  two  prominent  and  well-known  landmarks  of  the 
valley  of  Jefferson  river.  These  names  were  given  them  by  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark.  This 
stream  I  followed  to  one  of  its  head  branches — to  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Hell  Gate  river 
waters,  which  we  found  to  be  a  low  divide,  of  easy  ascent  and  descent.  My  course  lay  down 
the  valley  of  the  main  branch  of  the  Hell  Gate  river  to  its  junction  with  the  "  Little  Blackfoot 
Fork,"  which  latter  stream  was  followed  down  from  its  head,  both  by  Mr.  Tinkham  and  myself, 
in  our  respective  reconnaissance  from  Fort  Benton ;  and  I  would  here  remark  that  this  stream  of 
the  "Little  Blackfoot  Fork"  has  been  miscalled  both  by  myself  and  Mr.  Tinkham  :  we  took  it  to 
be,  and  have  given  to  it  the  name  of,  the  Hell  Gate  river,  and  I  avail  myself  of  this  opportunity 
to  correct  the  error.  The  stream  followed  down  by  the  main  train  from  Fort  Benton  was  the 
"  Big  Blackfoot  Fork,"  and  not  the  "  Blackfoot  Fork."  My  return  route  from  Fort  Hall  lay  over 
a  much  better  though  longer  road  than  the  one  followed  in  going  south,  and  is  by  far  the  better 
wagon  road ;  in  a  word,  there  is  no  difficulty  whatever  in  the  passage  of  wagon  trains  by  this 


LETTER   OP   LIEUTENANT   A.   J.   DONELSON.  635 

latter  route.  I  estimated  the  distance  travelled  by  the  route  to  Fort  Hall  to  be  325  miles,  the 
return  route  386  miles,  to  my  main  camp — making  a  difference  oT  sixty-one  miles  in  favor  of  the 
more  western  route,  but  over  a  more  rough  and  more  uninviting  country.  We  did  not  experience 
snow  to  a  greater  depth  than  fifteen  inches  on  a  level,  and  this  only  in  places.  On  the  dividing 
ridges,  however,  the  cold  at  times  was  very  intense,  the  thermometer  for  many  days  being  as 
low  as  20°  and  25°  below  zero.  This  was  one  great  difficulty  to  contend  with,  which  made 
travelling  exceedingly  uncomfortable,  and  hard  both  for  men  and  animals.  Myself  and  two  of 
my  men  were  frosted  by  the  cold.  We  arrived  at  our  main  camp  on  the  10th  of  January,  1854, 
after  an  absence  of  forty-four  days.  It  had  been  my  intention,  when  leaving  the  Bitter  Root 
valley,  to  connect  Fort  Hall  with  Fort  Benton  direct;  but  finding  my  animals  very  much  jaded 
by  their  long  march,  and  the  season  so  far  advanced,  with  such  intense  cold,  with  great  re 
luctance  I  was  compelled  to  abandon  it.  I  would  have  desired  to  have  made  a  barometical 
profile  of  the  route  travelled ;  but  fearing  that  our  regular  ba  ometrical  register,  in  the  Bitter  Root 
valley,  would  be  thus  interfered  with,  I  was  unable  to  take  it.  The  temperature,  however,  was 
noted  on  each  day  till  within  a  few  days  of  the  Bitter  Root  valley;  by  comparing  which  with 
those  taken  in  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  I  found  the  cold  much  more  intense  on  the  eastern  than  on 
the  western  rside  of  the  mountains.  I  am  under  the  impression  that  the  route  could  not  be 
travelled  at  any  season  later  than  I  travelled  it.  But  having  partially  made  the  connexion  as  far 
as  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  when  I  set  out  to  go  as  far  as  Fort  Hall,  and  being  deceived 
in  my  guide,  I  was  anxious  to  complete  the  line,  arid  thus  connect  our  survey  with  that  of 
Fremont.  It  is  impossible  to  give  in  this  short  sketch  the  character  of  each  portion  of  the  route 
travelled,  being  over  700  miles,  but  by  Lieutenant  Grover's  or  the  next  express  I  will  send  a 
detailed  report  and  the  accompanying  map. 

Sketches  of  the  principal  features  of  the  route  were  made  with  great  accuracy  by  Mr.  Adams, 
which  will  be  sent  down  in  the  spring,  together  with  those  taken  in  the  meanwhile. 

Truly,  your  obedient  servant,  J.   MULL  AN, 

Lieutenant  United  States  Army. 

Governor  I.  I.  STEVENS, 

In  Command  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Survey,  &fc. 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  November  27,  1854. 

SIR:  I  most  respectfully  beg  leave  to  protest  against  the  following  portion  of  Governor  Stevens's 
published  correspondence,  as  being  erroneous,  and  consequently  unjust  to  me : 

"At  Fort  Union  the  observations  were  placed  in  charge  of  Lieutenant  Donelson,  with  instruct 
ions,  if  practicable,  to  get  longitudes  by  lunar  distances ;  but  Lieutenant  Donelson  was  not  able 
to  report  any  results  except  for  latitude." 

In  proof  that  this  is  erroneous,  I  respectfully  refer  you  to  the  orders  and  letters  which  accom 
pany  Governor  Stevens's  first  published  report ;  and  I  would  say,  that  no  verbal  understanding 
or  instruction  to  the  above  effect  ever  prevailed. 

I  much  regret  being  compelled  to  object  to  a  statement  of  one  under  whom  I  have  served  for 
so  long  a  time,  and  under  such  peculiar  circumstances. 

Feeling  it  to  be  due  to  myself,  I  most  respectfully  ask  your  indulgence  for  the  course  I  take. 
I  have  the  honor  to  be,  sir,  with  great  respect,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

A.  J.  DONELSON, 

Second  Lieutenant  Engineers. 
Hon.  JEFFERSON  DAVIS, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington,  D.  C. 

[ISP  See  note  on  next  page.*) 


NOTE. 


The  Narrative  of  the  Exploration,  accompanied  by  Views  illustrating  the 
Features  of  the  Country,  the  Natural  History,  Botanical  and  other  Scientific 
Reports,  with  Illustrations,  will  be  found  in  a  Subsequent  Volume. 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX 


GOVERNOR  STEVENS'S  REPORT. 


PREPARED  BY  LIEUT.  E.  B.  HUNT,  U.  S.  A. 


A. 

Paga. 

Alpahwah  creek . . . — .  — .. .  535—538 

Altitudes,  Columbia  Barracks  to  Fort  Okinakane 613 

Appendix,  list  of  papers  in 154-157 

Arnold,  Second  Lieutenant  Richard,  U.  S.  A.,  detail  of 76 

report  of  Clark's  fork,  Fort  Colville,  Grand  Coulee,  Snake  river,  to  Wallah- Wallah 282-286 

report  of  his  route  by  Stevens 619-620 

instructions  to 67 

Arrow  river 303-304 

Asiatic  trade 113-116 

routes  of. 114-115 

Assiniboins 148 

Atahnam  river . — 190, 209 

geology  of — .  — . . .  478 

Auroras  observed ...... ......... ....  292 

B. 

Baird,  Professor  S.  F.,  naturalist 4,77, 159 

natural  history  memoranda 9-11 

list  of  articles 10-11 

Eanax  Indians 333-334 

Barometer,  instructions 6 

observations  (see  Meteorology) — - -- — - — —  129—130,569 

results  on  two  slopes  Rocky  mountains 169 

profiles 395-396 

list  of  heights  by 456-459,460,613 

Basalt 208,478,481 

Bear's  Paw  mountains 165,  490 

Beaver  Dam  creek ........  — .  — —  • ................... .....  — ... ....  546 

Bellingham  bay - - - - - - — —  — 47:2 

coal... 472 

Belt  or  Girdle  mountains 302,  310 

Big  Dry  river - —  •- — 496 

Big  Hole,  mountain  and  prairie 320-321,325-326,341 

fork 340 

Big  Knees,  buttes - 170 

Big  Muddy  river - 78, 246 

Biles,  John  D.,  Columbia  river  freshet 615-616 

Bird  Tail  rock :...  170 

Bitter  Root  valley 61,516 

topography 101,168-169 

river  and  valley 271,291,  317-318,  320,  325-324,  348-347 

Doctor  Suckley's  trip  down : 70-71 


638  INDEX. 

Pace. 
Bitter  Root  callcy— 

valley  and  climate,  &c 103-104,504 

mountains 169,529 

snow 397,633-035 

Indians 104,440-441 

tillage 104 

Blackbird's  hill 233-239,267 

Blackfcct  Indians,  depredations 259 

trick 303 

Mullan's,  Doty's,  and  Stanley's  reports  on 437-449 

Blackfoot  river  or  fork,  description  of 121,317,501-504 

topography  of 171,262,271 

Black  hills 241 

Blodgct,  Lorin,  meteorological  instructions 5_7 

general  notes  on  the  climate 566-571 

Blood  Indians,  (Blackfeet) 443-444 

Bois  dfs  Sioux,  river  and  plateau 83,91,153,222,487 

Bonnerillc  creek . . . 340 

Botany 219-221 

Bricks 92,95 

Burnt  hills 239,242 

Burr,  F.  H.,  meteorological  observations,  Cantonment  Stevens - 585-598 

Butte  dcs  Os 223 

Butte  Cante 302 

Butter  creek 253 

C. 

Cabinet  mountain 122,271,300 

Cadotte's  Pass 26-30,98,100,276 

Donelson's  instructions 35-38 

party 50-51 

Saxton's  account 262 

Camash  prairie 517,533,553,562 

Camp  Gushing,  report  from 20-21 

Camp  Davis,  report  from 18 

Camp  McClelland,  report  from 19-20 

Camp  Washington,  reports  from 67-69 

Camp  regulations . — .... . .... 51—52 

Cantonment  Loring 335 

Cantonment  Stevens,  meteorological  observations 585-598 

Cape  Disappointment . . . ..... .. . . . .  465 

Cascade  mountains,  exploration  ordered 74 

hitherto  incorrectly  drawn Ill 

description  of. 111-112,176-177 

passes Ill 

reason  of  name 176 

McClellan's  instructions 203 

McClellan's  report  of  survey 181-183 

McClellan's  full  report 188-202 

character  of  country,  soil,  &c 201 

map  of  rivers 201 

Duncan's  report  on  their  topography 203-219 

snow  in 400 

Tinkham  on  snows,  &c 629-631 

climate 570 

Howry's  report  on  meteorology  of 389-395 

Gibbs's  report  on  northern  part  of 469-472 

Gibbs's  report  on  their  geology 475-176 

Stevens's  instructions  for  Tinkham'e  exploration 617-619 

Cascades  of  Columbia  river 218 

Cathlapoot'l  river .- 189,205 

... ,..?  47$ 


INDEX.  639 

Page. 

Cayuse  Indians 253,  416 

Census  of  Indians . . - — — 434—437 

Clialaca  river  and  plain 204 

Chdan  river  and  lake 213 

Chemakane  river ...... — — ..... 19—20 

Chequoss 189,206-207,475-476 

Cherahna  river — . ....... ..  — —  ..  — ..............  — .  216 

Chitf  mountain,  lake .... . . 549 

Chihalis  Indians .. . . ...  — .. . ..............  423 

Chihalis  river . . . . . . . .. . .....  468 

Cldna,  commerce  with 113-116 

Chinook  Indians — —  —  .... . —  .......  427 

Chippcway  river . . ......................  486 

Chutes  river .. .... — ....  470 

Clallam  Indians . . .. .....  429—431 

Clark's  fork,  (or  river) 108, 121,271-272,518-519 

topography 169,173-174 

Saxtoii's  crossing - 258-260 

mouth 282-283 

Classcts 429 

Clearwatcr  river 281,289,533-535 

Climate  of  route,  (see  Meteorology.) 

Coal 92 

Puget  sound — —  . ...  113 

D'Waniish  river  and  Bellingham  bay 472 

Casur  d'Alene,  mountains  and  passes 56,96-97 

Indians 149-150,415 

prairie,  river,  lake,  mission,  and  mountains 107-108, 174,257,528,561-562 

Columbia  Barracks,  meteorological  observations 599-600,  602-603 

thence  to  Fort  Colville 603-612 

altitudes  thence  to  Fort  Okinakane 613 

Column ia  river  .  — - —  ..  — .. ....... .... .  —  ......  81 

course  and  tributaries - 107—110 

navigation 109,112 

pass Ill 

Great  Plain  of 123 

line  along 123-124 

topography  . • . . — ... ...... .... . . ......  176 

McClellan  on  pass 180-182 

Lander  on  pass 186-187 

McClellan  on  valley •  180 

river  and  valley . — . ....... ...... .  —  . 201 

Duncan  on  topography  of 204,211,215,219 

Clark's  fork  to  Wallah-Wallah 282-286 

Doctor  Buckley's  canoe  trip — Fort  Owen  to  Vancouver 70-71,291-301 

geology  of 473-486 

J.  D.  Biles  on  freshet  of,  1854 614-616 

Colville,  Fort 215,282-283 

Comet,  seen  at  Wenass 201 

Construction  of  railroad,  plan  of 141-143, 146 

estimate  of  cost - 144-145 

Gaoper,  Doctor,  surgeon  and  naturalist —  . —  76 

health  report 179-180 

natural  history  notes.... «—  219-221 

Cost  of  railroad,  estimated 144-145 

Coteau 161,223 

Cotton-wood 64 

Cotton-icood  creek .- .---  521 

Coulees 109,284 

Council  Bluff 233 

Cowlitz  Indians — .. . ......  423 

Cut-Bank  river - -••  543 


640  INDEX. 

Page. 

Culbertson,  Alexander,  his  qualifications 1 

snow  on  Upper  Missouri  river 402 

D. 

Dacotahs 265-266 

Dalles 218,290 

geology 486 

Daris,  Hon.  Jefferson,  instructions  by 72-74,449,633 

Dead  Colt  Hillock  line 222-223 

Dearborn  river 270,500,557 

topography 170 

Deer  Lodge  creek  and  prairie 175;  3J5(  343-344 

Distances,  on  various  routes , 126-127 

Dog  river 491 

Dog  trains 498 

Dogs,  Indian 405 

Dondson,  Lieutenant  A.  J., detail  of 74,77 

instructions  to 62-63,35-39 

orders  on 07 

orders  by 48-51 

surveys  the  Upper  Missouri 78 

reaches  Fort  Ben  ton 73 

report  on  Missouri  river  and  country  near  Fort  Union 231-247 

report  on  route  from  Fort  Benton  to  Wallah-Wallah 269-277 

itinerary — Fort  Union  to  Fort  Beiiton 358-359 

itinerary — Fort  Benton  to  Wallah- Wallah  by  Cadotte's  Pass,  Jocko  river,  and  Clark's  fork 360-363 

meteorological  observatio  is 459-460 

protest  of 635 

Cadotte's  Pass,  in  tructions,  and  party 35-39,  50 

Doty,  Mr.  James,  reports  on  Blackfeet  Indians 441-446 

instructions 65-66 

meteorological  observations 461 

report,  from  Fort  Benton,  along  Rocky  mountains,  eastern  base,  to  latitude  49°  30' 543-553 

report,  from  Fort  Benton  to  Cantonment  Stevens,  and  Fort  Benton  to  Olympia 553-565 

meteorological  instructions  and  observations,  Fort  Benton  and  Cantonment  Stevens 461, 572-584 

Du  Barry,  Lieutenant  Beekm  n,  detailed  and  relieved 77 

Duncan,  Lieutenant  J.  A.,  detail  of. 74-76 

report  on  topography  of  Cascade  mountains 203-219 

D' Wamish  Indians ... . ....... . 432 

river  and  lake 470-471 

coal 472 

E. 

•Elk  Fork 545 

Elokamin  riter 467 

Enteatkicu  river — .. . ,.. 211 

Estimate  of  cost  of  railroad .. .. . . ... .  144 

of  expenditures 23-24 

Evan*,  Doctor  John,  services  engaged 1,4, 77 

to  survey  Mauvaises  Terres 5 

geological  memoranda 11-13 

reaches  Fort  Benton — collections 78 

services  of 158, 159 

reports 230,282 

Examinations  recommended , 157-158,  452 

Excavations  and  embankments 89-95, 122 

F. 

Falls  of  Missouri 278,497 

Fallen  mountain 172 


INDEX.  641 

PSiff. 

Fires  in  forests 173 

Flat/mid  Indians 34-35,104,150,292-301,415-416 

Mullan's  account  of 307-309,311,437-440 

river  and  lake 97-98,276-277,519-521 

Fort  Benton,  climate,  &c 41, 131 

as  a  post 153 

reports  from 21-24 

mountains  around 167,278 

meteorological  observations, 572-584 

Fort  Bcrthold 243,265 

Fort  Clark 243,265 

Fort  Colville,  (see  Colville) 199,420 

Fort  Hall 105 

Fort  Kearney „ . 235—236 

Fort  Kontamie,  (Kootenay) 420 

Fort  Lcavenworth 234, 237 

Fait  Nisqually 421 

Fort  Okanagan,  (Okinakane) 197, 420 

Fort  Owen 286,293 

Fort  Pierre 241-242,267 

meteorological  observations 599 

Fort  Union,  reached 78 

reconnaissance  near 78 

topography,  &c.,  around 166 

Saxton's  narrative 264 

Fort  Umpqua „ 420 

Fort  Vancouver . 419 

Fort  Wallah-Wallah 419-420 

Frazer's  river 472 

G. 

Gardner,  Captain  J.  W.  T.,  U.  S.  A.,  detail  of 74,77 

relieved - 52,77 

Gate  of  the  mountains 106, 278 

Gates  creek .. 513 

Geological  instructions,  Dr.  Evans's - 11—13 

Geology  of  Washington  Territory,  Gibbs's  report 473-4S6 

Gibbs,  Mr.  George,  report  on  Indians  in  Washington  Territory 402—434 

reconnaissance  of  Shoalwater  bay  and  Puget  sound 465-473 

report  on  geology  of  Washington  Territory 473-486 

Glade  creek 530 

Graham,  Mr.  Win.  M.,  astronomer - -- - - 76 

Grand  Coteau — —  86 

Grand  Coulee 109-110,  175,285,302,482 

Grand  river ....  233 

Gray's  river  and  bay 467 

Great  Bend 240-241 

Great  Falls 497 

Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia 123 

Grindstone  I  uttes - —  242 

Grizzly  Hear  lake 8J 

Gros  Vcntrcs 264-265,443 

Graver,  Lieutenant  Cuvier,  U.  S.  A.,  detail  of 74,76 

quartermaster  of  the  eastern  party 4 

Cheyenne  river  reconnaissance 19-20 

Blackfoot  trail  reconnaissance,  orders 34 

sent  forward  from  Fort  Union 78 

on  Dead  Colt  Hillock  line 222-223 

report  on  Missouri  river 247-249 

report  on  meteorology — Fort  Benton  to  Wallah- Wallah 396-399 

final  report  from  Pike  lake  to  Fort  Union 486-468 

SI/ 


C42  INDEX. 

Pago. 

Graver,  Lieutenant  Cuvicr,  U.  S.  A. — 

final  report  on  Missouri  river 488-498 

final  report  of  snows  on  route  from  Fort  Benton  to  Fort  Dalles 498-515 

Guard  order 47-48 

IT. 

Health  of  parties . .... . ....  — .... .. 82 

Doctor  Suckley's  report  on , 177-179 

Doctor  Cooper's  report  on 179-180 

HeiglUs  by  barometer 456-459,460,613 

Hell  Gate 53,201 

river 260,275-276,279,315-317,344-346,525,554 

river  and  pass 99-101 

fork 102,626 

High  Bank  creek 336-337 

Highwood  creek 497 

Hilgard,  J.  E.,  instructions  for  magnetic  observations 

Hokcspam  river 218 

Hood's  canal 469 

Hooked  Man  creek 339-310 

Hoolhoolse  river 207-208 

Horse  prairie . . . . 328 

Horses,  Indian 404 

Hot  Spring  creek 524 

Hudson's  Bay  Company 77 

posts,  &c 419-421 

I. 

Indians,  sketches 8 

along  the  route 146-150 

policy  towards 147 

condition  of. 148,201 

number  of  each  tribe  estimated 150-151 

titles  to  be  extinguished 153 

health  of. 178-180 

war  talk  with. . .  255 

traits,  tribes,  talks,  and  treaties 265-26 S 

Flatheadsand  Kalispelms 293-301 

Suckley's  account  of  their  life,  ideas,  miseries,  worship,  &c 294-296 

Flatheads  and  Pend  d'Oreilles,  manners  of,  Mullan's  talk  with 308-309 

his  reports  on  Flatheads  and  Pend  d'Oreilles,  and  Kootenaies 437-441 

Doty's  reports  on  the  Blackfeet 441-446 

Stanley's  report  on  Piegan  Blackfeet 447-449 

Gibbs's  report  on,  in  Washington  Territory 402-434 

tribes,  horses,  dogs,  burials 403-406 

mythology 406-407,411 

smallpox 405,408 

earth-works 409 

conferences  with 410-411 

tribes 412-416 

number  of  each 417-418,434-437 

posts, 419-421 

missions 421-422 

treaties 422-424 

laws  and  agents 424-426 

apprenticeship 426-427 

census 434-437 

Bitter  Eou f  agency 440-441 

(See  1  ad  it  ions.) 

instructions 2-13 

Instruments,  meteorological , 6-7 


INDEX.  643 

Page. 

Itineraries — Tinkham's,  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Union 352-358 

Donelson's,  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Benton 358-359 

Donelsou's,  Fort  Benton  to  Wallah-Wallah,  by  Cadotte's  Pass,  Jocko  river,  arid  Clark's  fork 36C-363 

Dorielscm's,  Hell  Gate  to  Cceur  d'Alene  niistion,  &c 365-369 

Tiukham's,  Fort  Benton  to  Fort  Owen,  by  Blackfoot  trail  and  back  by  Jocko  river,  Flathead  lake,  and 

Marias  Pass 369-374 

Miuter's,  of  Captain  McClellan's  route,  Cascade  range 377-389 

J. 

James  river,  (Jacques) 223,487-488 

topography 161 

Jefferson's  Forks 97,320-323,328-329 

Jocko  river 101,121,274,276,517 

description  of 171-172 

Judith  mountains  and  river 304-306,  493 

K. 

Kahchess  river . —  — — . 210 

Ktdispdm  Indians 149,293-301,415 

lake 292 

Kaunas  prairie,  lake,  and  creek — .  261—262,  333 

Kansas  river — . 23 1—233 

Kctctas 192-193,210 

report  from  camp  at 24-26 

Kettle  falls 299 

Indians 413 

Kitchelus  lake 193-194,630-631 

Klikatat  river,  geology 207,476-477 

Indians 403-407 

horses 404 

Knee,  the 230 

Kolsas 204 

Koos-koos-hia  river 96,280,289,530-531 

Kootenaies  Indians 416,  522 

Kootenay  river — — .... 522—524 

Kiciwichess  river. — .. ...... ......  — ... — ........  — .... —  ...........  209 

L. 

Lakas 205 

Lake  Chelan 196 

Lake  Davis .... . .... .. .... . .... ...... . .... .... ...... ...... ...... ...... . ....  327 

Lake  Kahchess 210,479 

LakeKleallum .., 211,479 

Lake  Pilwaltus 210 

Lake  Rootham 169,293 

Lake  Traverse .  — . —  ....  487 

Lambert,  Mr.  John,  topographer 76 

report  on  topography  of  route 160-177 

Lander,  Mr.  F.  W.,  civil  engineer 76,77 

Sauk  rapids,  reconnaissance 14-10 

instructions  to 16-17 

report  of. 86-87 

report  on  Columbia  River  Pass 186-187 

report  on  crossing  of  the  Mississippi  river 224-226 

report,  Fort  Benton  to  Wallah-Wallah '•••  275-276 

Lappahicat  valley — -.  •- — 534-535 

Latitude,  observations 450 

list  of 453-456 

Stevens' s  report  on 540-541 

Lava...                                                                                                            474476 


644  INDEX. 

Page 

Lengths  of  routes 126-127 

Leicis  and  Clark's  Pass 79,100,275 

Lightning's  Nest 487 

Lignite 94,  '2159 

Lime 95,123 

Lindtn  Landing 235 

Lists,  of  papers  accompanying  report 155-157 

of  officers - 76-77 

of  latitudes 453-456 

of  longitudes 456 

of  barometric  heights 456-460 

Little  Blackfoot,  river  and  pass 99, 106,279,555 

fork 314,352 

Little  Dalles 282-283 

Little  fulls,  crossing  at,  on  Mississippi  river 15-16,83,  89,225 

Little  Rocky  Mountain  river 493 

Lo-Lo'sfork  and  pass 529-530 

Longitude,  observations 450 

list  of 456 

Stevens's  report 540-541 

Donelson's  protest 635 

Lumber ' 90 

Lummiriver .  471 

Indians , , 433 

M. 

Macfcely,  Lieutenant  R.,  U.  S.  A.,  report,  Fort  Owen  to  Wallah-Wallah 286-290 

Magnetic  variations,  observed 219 

instructions  for 8 

Manufactures  for  Asia 116 

Makahs 429 

Mandan  Indians .- 266 

Maple  river 521-522 

Maps,  with  report 3, 157,449-451 

Marias  Pass 53,97,550 

Tinkham's  report  on 276-281 

river ,  97,547-548 

character  of. 93 

Tinkham's  report 229-230,625-629 

Lambert  on  topography  of 165 

Grover 489 

Mautaises  Terrcs 5,163-164,249,263,304,490 

hills 92 

McCtdlan,  Captain  Geo.  B.,  U.  S.  A.,  detailed 74,76 

change  of  party 3-4 

its  composition 80, 188 

operations  of 80 

on  Snoqualme  Pass % 117 

report  of  Cascade  Mountains  survey 180-183 

report  from  Ketetas 24-26 

report  in  full 188-202 

report  of  his  operations 620-621,  622-624 

instructions  to 203 

orders  on 66 

Medicine  Lodge  creek 330 

Medicine  ritcr 166 

Messing - —  47 

Meteorology  of  field  explored 128—140 

Mowry's  report,  Cascade  range 389-395 

Grover's  report,  Fort  Benton  to  Wallah-Wallah 396-399 

Tinkham's,  on  snow  in  Rocky  and  Cascade  mountains  and  Bitter  Root  valley 399-400 

Ilice,  Sibley,  and  Culbertson,  on  winter  climate  from  Mississippi  liver  to  Rocky  mountains 400-402 


INDEX.  645 

Page.. 
Meteorology — 

Donelson  on  Missouri  river 459-460 

Duty's  meteorological  observations  at  Fort  Benton 461  572-584 

Mullan  at  Cantonment  Stevens 461—463 

Haden  and  Suckley  at  Steilacoom 463-464 

Stevens  at  Olympia,  and  Suckley  and  Potts  at  Steilacoom 464 

Grover  on  route  from  Fort  Benton  to  Fort  Dalles 498-515 

Blodget's  general  notes  on  the  climate 566-571 

Mullan  and  Burr,  observations  at  Cantonment  Stevens 585-598 

Observations  at  Fort  Pierre,  Columbia  Barracks  to  Fort  Colville,  and  at  Olympia 599-613 

at  Fort  Benton 41 

instructions . 5—7 

Mtthoic  river 197,213 

geology  of 483 

Military  organization , , . 46 

posts  recommended 153 

Milk  river 84,92,447 

survey  orders 41-44 

valley  of 84 

route  up 92-93 

Lambert  on 164-165 

Tiukham's  report  on 226-228 

Millakitekwu  ricer  and  valley . 197—193 

Mintcr,  Mr.  J.  F. ,  itinerary  of  Captain  McClellan's  route 377-389 

Missions,  Indian 421-422 

at  Atalmam 190 

Suckley's  narrative 294-298 

of  St.  Ignatius .' 294-297 

of  St.  Mary's 415 

Mississippi  ricer . . _ 81 

Lander's  report  on  Sauk  rapids  crossing 14-16 

route  along 89 

crossings 83-84,224-226 

climate  of  Upper 400-402 

Missouri  ricer . 62,84,92 

character  and  navigation  of 85-S6 

Lambert  on  topography  of 163 

railroad  route  along 83-85 

Donelson's  report  on 231-247 

changes  of  banks  and  bottoms 232—234 

velocity 232 

characteristics 232-233 

sand-bars 232,244 

smoking  hills 239 

width 232,235,241 

Grand  Coteau 161 

Grover's  report,  from  Great  Falls  to  Muscle  Shell 247-249 

navigation  of 233,245,248,250 

Sax  ton's  report,  Fort  Benton  to  Fort  Leavenworth,  navigability 249-250 

Same  in  full 263-269 

headwaters ......   313,  333—339 

climate  of  Upper 400-402 

final  report  of  Lieut.  Grover,  Great  Falls  to  Milk  river 

navigability  of. 496-497 

Great  Falls 543 

Doty's  report 543 

Mo-ko-un  river — — - - -• •  549 

Moose  Island  lakes 487 

Mounds 409 

one  of  salt 343 

Mountain  ranges .- - 81 

Mount  Adams ...                                                          , - 252 


646  INDEX. 

Page. 

Mount  Baker 469 

Mount  Hood 475-476 

Mount  Rainier 192,2(17,475 

Mount  St.  Helens 207,475-476 

Mount  Stuart 197 

Mouse  rivet  and  valley 78,83-84,161-162,233 

description  of 90-91 

Mowry,  Lieutenant  S.,  U.  S.  A.,  detail  of 76 

meteorological  observations,  Columbia  Barracks  to  Fort  Colville 602-612 

report  on  meteorology  of  Cascade  mountains 389-395 

report  on  barometric  profile 395-396 

Muddy  rivers,  Big  and  Little,  topography 164 

Mules - 13-14 

Muilan,  Lieutenant  J.,  jr.,  U.  S.  A.,  detail  of 74,76 

instructions  to 34-35,  61-62 

operations  of 54,  79 

report  of  exploration  to  Fort  Hall 103-106 

report,  Fort  Benton  to  Flathead  camp,  Little  Blackfoot  river  to  St.  Mary's 59-61,3(11-319 

report,  Cantonment  Stevens  to  Fort  Hall,  and  back,  up  the  St.  Mary's  and  Jefferson  fork 319-322 

report,  Cantonment  Stevens  to  Fort  Benton,  and  back , 349—352 

report,  Bitter  Root  valley  to  Fort  Hall,  Hell  Gate  valley,  and  Bitter  Root  valley 322-349 

Indian  reports 437-441 

report,  St.  Mary's  to  Fort  Hall 621 

meteorological  observations —  — —  . 461-463 

report,  Bitter  Root  valley  to  Flathead  valley,  and  Kootenay  river 516-527,633-6:55 

report,  Cantonment  Stevens  to  Fort  Dalles,  through  Rocky  Mountains  and  Cceur  d'Alene  passes 527-537 

meteorology,  St.  Mury's  valley 585 

Muscle  Shell  river 54,59-61,85,247-248 

N. 

hchess  river -- — —  209 

valley  and  pass 25,190-192,617 

geology 478-479 

Nahnum  river - -- - 210—211 

Narrative  of  operations 77-30 

Natural  history,  Baird's  memoranda 9-11 

listff  articles 10-11 

notes  by  Doctor  Cooper 219-221 

Nehoialpitkwu  river — — 214-214 

Nez  Perces 150,416 

trail 69,96,276-281 

Nikepun  river - 208 

Nisqually  river 470 

Indians 431 

Noomptnamie  river 205-206 

O. 

Officers  of  exploration,  list 76 

Okinakane,  Indians 412 

river,  fort,  valley,  lake,  and  geology 197,213-214,420,484 

Olympia,  report  from 52-59 

Olympic  range — - 470 

Orders 41-51 

on  meeting  McClellan 66-67 

Osage  river — 233 

Osgood,  Isaac  F.,  clerk,  &c - 4 

Osoyoos  lake — 214 


Pack  river -. 510 

s,  forwarded  September  18,  1853 32-33 


INDEX.  647 

Page 

Parties,  two .* 3_4 

organization  of 76-77  1 88 

Passes,  Rocky  Mountains , 96-191 

Pclahat  valley . 535 

Pcluse  river. _ 216 

Indians 150-255 

Pcnd  d'Orcillc,  Indians 148,257  415  441 

lake 169,173,258,292 

missions ...291  528 

Piegan  Elackfeet 442-443,445-446 

Stanley's  report  of  visit  to  camp  of 447-449 

Pike  lake 78,222,486 

Pisko  river 473 

Pisquouse  Indians 412 

river,  geology , 431 

Plane  river,  delta  and  bluffs 236-2:57 

Pomme  de  Terre  river „ _ 2'<i2, 487 

Port  Toicnsend . 429-430 

Prairies,  character  of 160, 162 

fires  on 166, 173 

Pugrt  sound,  its  character,  resources,  commercial  relations,  and  Asiatic  trade 113-116,468-470 

Puyallup  river.. 192,470 

Q. 

Quinaitl  river 468 

R. 

Rabbit  river 487 

Railroad  route 81-88 

materials  for  road 89-95 

plan  and  cost  of 141-145 

those  now  built  westward 157-158 

Rain,  distribution  of 128-140,569 

(See  Meteorology,  leports,  &c.) 

Reconnaissance,  character  of — .- - — 2 

Red  Butte  valley 329 

Red  river  of  the  North — . - 81 

navigation  of —  .  — - 83 

trail  to  be  followed 77 

climate 401 

Red  River  Half-breeds 143 

Regulations  in  camp 51—52 

for  train 48-49 

Results  accomplished - —  .  — - — —  30—31 

ResumS  of  route - —  121—125 

Rice,  Hon.  H.  M.,  on  winter  climate,  Mississippi  river  to  Rocky  mountains 130, 400-401 

River  of  the  Lakes - 91 

Rivers  of  the  region  explored 89-95 

Riviere  d  Jacques,  (see  James  river") . — -- — 87 

Roads 142-143,154 

estimated  work  on  one  from  Fort  Benton  to  Wallah-Wallah 363-364 

Roberts,  Capt.  Joseph,  U.  S.  A 450 

Rocky  mountains - -- - — 74,  81 

passes 81,97-101,167 

region  described — 102—106 

timber  on - — -. - —  102 

rocks 103 

arable  lands 103 

climate 103-105 

ridge 121 

Lambert  on  character  of  eastern  slope 167 

ridge 167-168 


648  INDEX. 

Page. 
Rocky  mountains — 

rivers,  &c 168 

view  frouj  summit - - - - - - - - 170 

Mullaii's  account  of  ridge 312-313, 529-533 

snow  on — 400 

Mullau's  report  on  a  pass 538-540 

Rocks 103 

Root-  Digger  Indians 334 

Ross's  Hole  mountain - - —  320 

prairie . .... - .- - 324—325 

Routes,  distances  on  each,  (see  Itineraries) 126-127 


Sahpcnis  rircr 208,477 

Sahtlilkwu  rircr 193 

Salmon  in  Columbia  river 299-300 

Salmon  Rircr  mountains ; 326-327 

Salt  lakes 92 

mound 343 

Salubrity.     (See  Health.} 

Sainahma  river 211 

Sandstone - 95 

Suptin  rirer - — 216 

Sauk  rapids 224-226 

bridge 14-13 

Saxton,  Lieutenant  Rufus,  U.  S.  A.,  detail 71,76 

explorations  and  return 73 

route  of. 79 

report  on  Missouri  navigation 249-250 

report,  Columbia  river  to  Fort  Owen  and  to  Fort  Benton 251-269 

quartermaster  and  commissary 4 

Cadotte's  Pass,  &c.,  reconnaissance 26-30 

orders  on 33 

instructions  for  return  to  Washington  and  for  report 39-40 

Sclncoyclpi  Indians 412 

Seattle,  as  a  terminus 183,200 

Secretary  of  War,  instructions  from ,., 72-75, 449,  633 

Schicock  river .- - - - - — 211 

Selenite 239 

Sergeant's  hill 239,267 

Settlements,  to  be  encouraged 153 

Sltayennc  river,  character  of  valley 86,  90 

topography 161 

Shoalicater  bay,  Gibbs's  report 465-467 

Slionkee  creek  — -- — .  302 

Siblty,  Hon.  H.  /r.,  winter  climate,  Mississippi  river  to  Rocky  mountains- 130,401 

Simpson,  Sir  George,  aid  afforded  by 77 

Simkicee  river 209 

Sinaliomish river -. - -- —   471, 622—624 

and  valley - 200 

Indians 432 

Simsik 204 

Siijalikrni  river — — 215 

Skagit  Indians 433 

river 200,471 

S'kamish.  river — 192 

Skilkantin  river , 211-212 

Skookum-Chuck  river 468-469 

Slairntchus  rircr 192 

Smallpox  among  Yakimas 408 

Small  Prickly  Pear  creek 350 


INDEX.  649 

Page. 

Smith's  river 31 1-312 

Snake  river 105,108,285,330-3:36,513,535 

valley 102 

course 105 

geology 485 

Snoqualme  Pass 25 

examinations  and  practicability  of 117-120,617,624 

tunnelling 117-120 

snow  in  pass 622 

Tiukhara's  winter  trip  through,  and  report 184-186,621 

Snow  in  mountains 97, 625-628 

distribution  of 128,139-140 

in  Cascade  mountains 182 

in  Snoqualme  Pass,  Tinkham's  report 184-186,629-631 

in  Marias  Pass 281 

summary  on , 452,631 

on  route  from  Fort  Benton  to  Fort  Dalles , 498-515 

(See  reports  on  Meteorology.) 

Snow  mountains 309-310 

Soil,  summary  on 451 

Spilyeh  riccr ... 205 

Spokane  river 215-216,512 

and  valley 107 

plain 197,216,281,284 

geology 484 

Indians 414-415 

river,  plain,  and  Indians 256-257 

Square  buttes 243 

Stanley,  Mr.  J.  M.,  artist 4, 67 

report  of  his  visit  to  Piegan  camp 444-449 

memoranda  on  sketches 7-8 

Steilacoom  as  a  terminus . - 113, 183 

Steilaquamish  river ._> . — 471 

Stevens,  George  A.,  observations 450,464 

report  on  latitudes  and  longitudes 540-541 

Stevens,  Governor  1. 1.,  instructions  to -- - - - —  -       73—74,449 

camp  Pierce,  report 13-14 

synoptic  report  of  route,  &c.,  dated  Olympia 52-59 

instructions  to  McClellan 203 

instructions  to  Tinkham,  Cascade  mountains 617-619 

report  of  Arnold's  route 619-620 

report  of  McClellan's,  Tinkham's,  and  Mullan's  operations 620-622 

letters  to  Secretary  of  War 450-453,631-633 

letters  with  Mullan's  reports 515,537 

letter  with  Doty 's  reports 542 

letter  with  main  report  to  Secretary  of  War 450-453 

St.  Joseph's 235-237 

St.  Mary's  village 53,171,251,261,286-287,291 

valley 79,102,168,279,300,558-559,626 

exploration 59-61 

snow,  &c - - -.--  — - 61-62 

meteorological  observations 572-584, 585-598 

river.     (See  Bitter  Root  river.) 

Stone 92-95,103,109,123 

St.  Paul,  rendezvous ^7 

t)QG 

mission *w 

river  at 

climate  at 130-131 

St.  Regis  Borgia  river 559-560 

Suckley,  Dr.  George,  surgeon  and  naturalist 

instructions  to 64, 68 

meteorological  observations 

82/ 


650  INDEX. 

I'ilgP. . 

Sucklcy,  Dr.  George — 

health  report  of J77-179 

report  of  canoe  trip,  Fort  Owen  to  Vancouver 70-71 , 291-301 

Summaiy  of  exploration* - 70,  80 

S»n  rirer 166,270,544 

valley 273,49!) 

Surrtyfur  railroad,  its  nature - -- — 2 

T. 

Table  of  temperatures.     (See  Lists.) 

Tahk  prairie 208,477 

Temperature^,  observed 128-140,  567-508 

(See  Meteorology.) 

Terraces,  remarkable 213 

Columbia  river 483 

Teton  river 165,270,498,546 

character  of 93,551 

Thompson's  prairie 173,259,505 

Three  Suites 94,331,447 

Lambert  on  topography  of 165 

Tinkhaui's  report  on 226-230 

Three  Tetons 331-332 

Timber,  on  Columbia  river 108-1 09, 1 1 3, 474 

on  Cascade  mountains — 220 

on  Bitter  Eoot  and  Hell  Gate  rivers 292 

distribution  of 451 

Tinkham,  A.  W.,  civil  engineer •-, 76 

instructions  to 17-18 

reports  on  Snoqualme  Pass 184-186,621,629-631 

report,  Blackfoot  trail  to  Clark's  fork 273-S75 

report  and  instructions  on  Marias  Pass  line  and  Nez  Perces  trail 64, 69, 276-281, 625-629 

Stevens's  Cascade  passes — instructions - 617—01 9 

report  on  snows,  Rocky  mountains,  Bitter  Eoot  river,  and  Cascade  mountains 399-400, 625-629 

itineraries,  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Union 352-358 

Fort  Benton  to  Fort  Owen  by  Blackfoot  trail 309-371 

Fort  Owen  to  Fort  Benton  by  Jocko  river,  Flathead  lake,  and  Marias  Pass 371-374 

Fort  Owen  to  Wallah-Wallah  by  Nez  Perces  trail 374-377 

Trois  Buttes  report 226-230 

extracts  from  reports  of 87, 88 

Topography  of  route,  Lambert's  report 160-177 

Duncan's  Cascade  mountains  report 203-219 

Touchet  river 217,564 

Traditions  of  Indians,  Lot's  wife 212 

Eliptillicum 207-208 

Train  orders 48-49 

Traverse  lake —  487 

Treaties  with  Indians 422,424 

Trois  Buttes.     (See  Three  Buttes.) 

Tunnels 117-120 

Cascades ., 181-183 

Ticitsp  river  and  valley — . . —  197 

Two  Canon  river 290, 536 

U. 

Umatilla  river 218 

V. 

Vancouver,  Fort .... 419 

country  near 204 

soil  around 473 

1'ariations  of  the  needle  observed 


INDEX.  651 

W. 

Page. 

Wagon  roads 142-143,154 

Wahamis  river — —  .  — —  — .  206 

Wah-wuk-chie  river  — —  — — — .. .  —  . 208 

Waillailootzas  lake .. —  194 

tunnel 119 

Waiyum  river - — . 218 

Wallah-Wallah,  Yort r 402-433,617-618 

Indians ' 402-403 

river,  fort,  and  mission 217 

Saxton's  report 254 

vicinity 285-286,485 

Wamcaicicie  river 218 

War  Department,  instructions 72—75, 499,  633 

Watab  river,  bridge 15 

Wenass  river ^90,210 

Wenatsapam  river .  211-212 

Whatcom  lake , 471 

White  Clay  Bank  creek 341 

White  Earth  river 242,246 

topography _  162 

Wild  Rice  river 91,223 

Willailootzas  lake 181 

Willopah  river 465-466 

valley 200 

Indians 428 

Wininepat 206 

Wisdom  river 320,  340-34 1 , 634 

Wood,  (see  Timber} 91-92,124,195 

Work  to  be  done 31-32 

Y. 

Yahinse  river 210 

Yahkohtl  river 204 

Yakirna  river 181,210-211 

pass  and  valley 26,117,182-183,629-630 

exploration  of 80,181,184,190,193-194 

geology 478-480 

Indians 403-408 

habits,  food 403-406 

smallpox , 405,408 

earth-works 409 

mission — . . .  409 

talks  and  tricks 410-411 

horses 404 

Yannoinse  river 211 

Yellow  Clay  Bank  creek - — — .....  342 

Yellowstone  river 243-243 

navigation  of - - 84 

Z. 
Zoology 219-221 


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